Japan

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Japan

Japan’s Top 24

Need to Know

First Time Japan

What’s New

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Off the Beaten Track

Japan by the Seasons

Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Travel with Children

Japan on a Budget

Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

TOKYO

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

MT FUJI & AROUND TOKYO

Mt Fuji & Fuji Five Lakes

Mt Fuji

Yokohama

Kamakura

Hakone

Hakone-Yumoto

Miyanoshita & Kowakidani

Chōkoku-no-Mori & Gōra

Sōun-zan & Sengokuhara

Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone

Izu Peninsula

Atami

Itō

Shimoda

Shirahama

Kisami

Dōgashima

Shuzen-ji Onsen

Izu Islands

Ō-shima

Nii-jima

Shikine-jima

Hachijō-jima

Chichibu & Oku-Tama

Takao-san

Oku-Tama

Nikkō & Around

Nikkō

Chūzen-ji Onsen

Yumoto Onsen

Narita

Ogasawara Archipelago

Chichi-jima

Haha-jima

THE JAPAN ALPS & CENTRAL HONSHŪ

Nagoya & Around

Nagoya

Inuyama

Gifu

Gujō-Hachiman

Kiso Valley Nakasendō

Magome

Tsumago

Kiso

Narai

Hida Region

Takayama

Hida-Furukawa

Okuhida Onsen-gō

Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama

Kanazawa & the Hokuriku Coast

Kanazawa

Noto Peninsula

Kaga Onsen

Fukui

Toyama

Takaoka

The Northern Japan Alps

Matsumoto

Azumino

Shirahone Onsen

Kamikōchi

Hakuba

Nagano & Around

Nagano

Togakushi

Obuse

Nozawa Onsen

Myōkō Kōgen

Shiga Kōgen

Bessho Onsen

Karuizawa

Gunma Prefecture

Takasaki

Minakami Onsen-kyo

Kusatsu Onsen

KYOTO

Sights

Activities

Courses & Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

KANSAI

Osaka

Kōbe

Himeji

Nara Prefecture

Nara

Asuka

Yoshino

Kii Peninsula

Kōya-san

Kumano Kodō

Ise-Shima

Shiga Prefecture

Ōtsu

Hikone

Northern Kansai

Ōhara

Kurama & Kibune

Miyama

Amanohashidate

Kinosaki Onsen

HIROSHIMA & WESTERN HONSHŪ

Hiroshima

Miyajima

Saijō

Iwakuni

Onomichi & the Shimanami Kaidō

Onomichi

Inno-shima

Ikuchi-jima

Ōmi-shima

Okayama & the Inland Sea

Okayama

Naoshima

Teshima

Shōdo-shima

Kurashiki

Kurasaoka Islands

Tomo-no-ura

Tottori, Shimane & the San’in Coast

Tottori

San-in Coast National Park

Daisen

Sakaiminato

Oki Islands

Matsue

Izumo

Iwami Ginzan

Yamaguchi & Around

Yamaguchi

Tsuwano

Hagi

Shimonoseki

NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU)

Miyagi Prefecture

Sendai

Matsushima

Ishinomaki

Naruko Onsen

Iwate Prefecture

Morioka

Hiraizumi

Tōno

Sanriku Kaigan

Minami-Sanriku & Kesennuma

Rikuzen-takata & Ōfunato

Kamaishi & Ōtsuchi

Miyako

Aomori Prefecture

Aomori

Hirosaki

Towada-ko

Hakkōda-san

Shimokita Peninsula

Akita Prefecture

Akita

Kakunodate

Tazawa-ko

Nyūtō Onsen

Yamagata Prefecture

Yamagata

Yamadera

Zaō Onsen

Ginzan Onsen

Tsuruoka

Dewa Sanzan

Sakata

Niigata Prefecture

Niigata

Sado-ga-shima

Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen

Naeba

Fukushima Prefecture

Aizu-Wakamatsu

Bandai Plateau

SAPPORO & HOKKAIDŌ

Sapporo

Central Hokkaidō

Niseko

Otaru

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park

Tomakomai

Hakodate

Northern Hokkaidō

Asahikawa

Biei

Furano

Daisetsuzan National Park

Wakkanai

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park

Eastern Hokkaidō

Abashiri

Shari

Shiretoko National Park

Akan National Park

Kushiro

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park

Tokachi

SHIKOKU

Tokushima Prefecture

Tokushima

Naruto

The Anan Coast

Iya Valley

Kōchi Prefecture

Kōchi

Shimanto City

Ashizuri-misaki

Ehime Prefecture

Matsuyama

Ishizuchi-san

Uchiko

Uwajima

Kagawa Prefecture

Takamatsu

Yashima

Marugame

Zentsuji

Kotohira

Kanonji

KYŪSHŪ

Fukuoka & Around

Fukuoka

Dazaifu

Karatsu

Imari

Arita

Hirado

Nagasaki & Around

Nagasaki

Shimabara Peninsula

Kumamoto & Around

Kumamoto

Aso-san

Kurokawa Onsen

Takachiho

Oita Prefecture

Beppu

Yufuin

Kunisaki Peninsula

Usuki

Southern Kyūshū

Kagoshima

Sakurajima

Satsuma Peninsula

Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park

Miyazaki

Aoshima

Nichinan Coast

Obi

OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS

Ōsumi Islands

Yakushima

Tanegashima

Amami Islands

Amami-Ōshima

Yoron-tō

Okinawa-hontō

Naha

Southern Okinawa-hontō

Motobu Peninsula

Kerama Islands

Aka-jima

Zamami-jima

Kume-jima

Miyako Islands

Miyako-jima

Irabu-jima & Shimoji-jima

Yaeyama Islands

Ishigaki-jima

Iriomote-jima

Taketomi-jima

Hateruma-jima

Yonaguni-jima

UNDERSTAND

Japan Today

History

The People of Japan

Arts

Architecture & Gardens

Environment

Sport

Traditional Accommodation

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Media

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Japan

Japan is truly timeless, a place where ancient

traditions are fused with modern life as if it were the

most natural thing in the world.

Traditional Culture

On the surface Japan appears exceedingly modern, but travelling around it

offers numerous opportunities to connect with the country’s traditional

culture. Spend the night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), sleeping on

futons and tatami mats, and padding through well-worn wooden halls to the

bathhouse. Meditate with monks or learn how to whisk bitter matcha

(powdered green tea) into a froth. From the splendour of a Kyoto geisha

dance to the spare beauty of a Zen rock garden, Japan has the power to

enthral even the most jaded traveller.

Food

Wherever you are in Japan, it seems, you’re never far from a great meal.

Restaurants often specialise in just one dish – perhaps having spent

generations perfecting it – and pay close attention to every stage, from

sourcing the freshest, local ingredients to assembling the dish attractively.

And as you’ll quickly discover, Japanese cuisine has great regional

variations. The hearty hotpots of the mountains are, for example,

dramatically different from the delicate sushi for which the coast is famous.

It’s also intensely seasonal, meaning you can visit at a different time of year

and experience totally new tastes.

Outdoors

Japan is a long and slender, highly volcanic archipelago. It’s over two-thirds

mountains, with bubbling hot springs at every turn. In the warmer months

there is excellent hiking, through cedar groves and fields of wildflowers, up

to soaring peaks and ancient shrines (the latter founded by wandering

ascetics). In the winter, all this is covered with snow and the skiing is world

class. (And if you’ve never paired hiking or skiing with soaking in onsen,

you don’t know what you’ve been missing.) Meanwhile in the southern

reaches, there are tropical beaches for sunning, snorkelling and diving.

Ease of Travel

Japan is incredibly easy to get around: you can do a whole trip using nothing

but its immaculate, efficient public transport. The shinkansen (bullet train)

network now runs all the way from the southern tip of Kyūshū (the

southernmost of Japan’s major islands) up to Hokkaidō (its northernmost),

and reasonably priced rail passes make it affordable. Major cities have

subway networks that are signposted in English and these days we’re seeing

and hearing more English all over. But if getting off the beaten track and

outside your comfort zone is what you’re after, you can have that

experience, too.

Exhibition view of MORI Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless, 2018 Odaiba, Tokyo.

teamLab is represented by Pace Gallery | TEAMLAB BORDERLESS, ODAIBA, TOKYO ©

Why I Love Japan

By Rebecca Milner, Writer

I’ve lived in Tokyo for over 15 years now and am continuously surprised – sometimes on a

daily basis – by something new. Such is the joy of living in a place that prides itself on constant

renewal and reinvention; it seriously never gets old. Over the years I have had many

opportunities to introduce visiting family and friends to Japan. The awe on their faces when

first seeing Kyoto’s golden temple, Kinkakuji, or experiencing the kindness of complete

strangers never fails to take me back to the moment I first arrived and was instantly smitten.

For more, see our writers

Japan’s Top 24

Kyoto

Kyoto, Japan’s imperial capital for a thousand years, is home to more than a

thousand temples. Among them are the monumental, like Kinkaku-ji (an

exquisite pavilion sheathed entirely in gold leaf), and the meditative, like

Ryōan-ji, with its stark Zen rock garden. And temples are only the start of it:

there’s the culture of tea, which you can appreciate at one of the city’s many

elegant teahouses; the art of the geisha, those iconic performers of traditional

music and dance; and also a rich food culture, including kaiseki (Japanese

haute cuisine).

Fushimi-inari Taisha | PATRYK KOSMIDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Onsen

Some locals will tell you that the only distinctively Japanese aspect of their

culture – that is, the only thing that didn’t ultimately originate in mainland

Asia – is the bath. Highly volcanic Japan has thousands of onsen (hot

springs) scattered across the archipelago, which feed baths. The Japanese

have turned the simple act of bathing into a folk religion and the country is

dotted with temples and shrines to this most relaxing of faiths. Not

convinced? Wait until you give it a try (and feel years of stress melt away).

DAVID KLEYN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Japanese Cuisine

One of the joys of travelling in Japan is experiencing the true breadth of the

country’s cuisine. Sushi (raw fish on vinegar-seasoned rice) may be

synonymous with Japan, but head to the mountains, for example, and you’ll

discover a hearty cuisine that draws from the land. It’s hard not to eat well in

Japan: such is the care and thought put into ingredients and presentation.

What’s more, you can have a superlative meal on any budget: even (and

often especially) a humble bowl of noodles can be sublime.

Sanuki-udon, a speciality of Kagawa | DAPPLE DAPPLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Staying in a Ryokan

Ryokan simply means ‘inn’, but in this modern age of hotels, the word has

come to mean an inn with a particular aesthetic and attitude towards service

that feels more traditionally Japanese. Ryokan have tatami (woven reed mat)

floors where guests sleep on futons (quilted mattresses) rather than beds.

They’re usually low-slung buildings with winding corridors of highly

polished wood. In better ones, staff wear kimonos and are highly attuned to

guests’ needs. These will also serve exquisite meals of local, seasonal

ingredients – a truly memorable experience.

POM POM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tokyo

Tokyo is a city forever reaching into the future, pushing the boundaries of

what’s possible on densely populated, earthquake-prone land, adding ever

taller, sleeker structures. It’s Japan’s top spot for contemporary art and

architecture, pop culture, shopping, drinking and entertainment (and a tie

with Kyoto for dining). But more than any one sight, it’s the city itself that

enchants visitors. It’s a sprawling, organic thing, stretching as far as the eye

can see. Always changing, and with a diverse collection of neighbourhoods,

no two experiences of it are ever the same.

Akihabara | ESB PROFESSIONAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Daibutsu (Great Buddha) of Nara

Nara’s 15m-tall gilt-bronze Buddha statue was first cast in the 8th century, at

the dawn of the Japanese empire. It’s among the largest gilt-bronze effigies

in the world and the temple that houses it, Tōdai-ji, is among the world’s

largest wooden structures. It’s hard, in fact, to describe the Great Buddha

without using superlatives; it’s simply remarkable. It’s also just one of many

outstanding examples of Buddhist art to be found in Nara. There are several

other important temples here, as well as the Nara National Museum.

ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Cherry-Blossom Viewing (Hanami)

Come spring, countless cherry trees around Japan burst into colour, a

spectrum that runs from the palest of pink to a riotous magenta. That’s the

cue for locals to gather in parks and along river banks for cherry-blossom-

viewing parties called hanami. It’s a tradition that dates back centuries and

one that is no less beloved today. The blossoms last only for a week or two,

symbolic of life’s ephemeral nature but also a reminder to seize the present.

Do so and join the festivities.

Meguro-gawa | SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Naoshima

Naoshima is one of Japan’s great success stories: a rural island with a

shrinking population has now become a world-class centre for contemporary

art. Many of Japan’s most lauded architects have contributed, including

museums, a boutique hotel and even a bathhouse – all designed to enhance

the island’s natural beauty and complement its existing settlements. The

resulting blend of avant-garde and rural Japan is captivating. It has also

inspired some Japanese to pursue a slower life outside the big cities,

relocating to Naoshima to open cafes and inns.

CHICHU ART MUSEUM. PHOTO: SEIICHI OHSAWA ©

Top Experiences

Kumano Kodō

For centuries Japan’s remote mountains were criss-crossed by mountain

ascetics seeking spiritual enlightenment in what then must have felt like the

ends of the earth. Somewhat less self-punishing pilgrims continue to follow

their paths. Deep in southern Kansai, in the interior of the Kii Peninsula, the

network of trails known as the Kumano Kodō links three important Shintō

shrines that, as part of local culture, were historic sites of nature worship.

The Kumano Kodō offers both gentle day hikes and weeklong treks, with the

opportunity to soak in onsen along the way.

Kumano Nachi Taisha | PIYAWANNEE SADSUMPAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tsumago & Magome

Tsumago and Magome are two post towns along the old Nakasendō, a foot

highway (used by lords and messengers alike) that connected Edo (now

Tokyo) and Kyoto during the feudal period. The old path remains, paved

with large stones, and it is possible to hike 7.8km between the two towns,

through sleepy alpine hamlets and cedar forests, past waterwheels and rice

paddies. The towns themselves are a treat too, with narrow lanes and low-

slung dark wooden buildings that serve as inns, noodle restaurants and craft

shops.

PIUS LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Mt Fuji

Even from a distance Mt Fuji will take your breath away. Close up, the

perfectly symmetrical cone of Japan’s highest peak is nothing short of

awesome. Dawn from the summit? Pure magic. Fuji-san is among Japan’s

most revered and timeless attractions. Hundreds of thousands of people

climb it every year, continuing a centuries-old tradition of pilgrimages up the

sacred volcano. Those who’d rather search for picture-perfect views from

the less-daunting peaks nearby can follow in the steps of Japan’s most

famous painters and poets.

SKYEARTH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Skiing

Come winter, copious dumps of dry, powdery snow turn the mountains of

Japan into peaks of meringue. In recent decades, Niseko has emerged as

Asia’s top ski resort and a global destination, backed up by a thriving,

cosmopolitan après-ski scene. If first tracks and an evening hot-spring soak

are all you desire, there are hundreds of smaller resorts around the country

that see fewer visitors (reminiscent of the days when Japan’s excellent snow

was still a well-kept secret). For thrill-seekers, there are backcountry

opportunities, too.

STEVE OGLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Kanazawa

Kanazawa is an old feudal-era capital on the Sea of Japan coast that, in its

heyday, rivalled Kyoto as a centre for the arts. This vibrant artisan tradition

is today evident in a number of shops and galleries. It also has one of Japan’s

top gardens, Kenroku-en, an excellent contemporary art museum and a rich

food culture that draws heavily from the seafood pulled from the ocean. And

yet Kanazawa has long flown under the radar, though that’s starting to

change. Go now, before everyone else catches on.

Kenroku-en | FINALLAST/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Wild Hokkaidō

Hokkaidō is Japan’s northernmost island: a largely untamed, highly volcanic

landscape of massive mountains startlingly pock-marked with crystal-blue

caldera lakes and opalescent, sulphur-rich hot springs. Its flora and fauna is

more closely related to Sakhalin, part of Russia, to the north, than the rest of

Japan to the south. Hikers, cyclists and casual road trippers are all drawn to

the island’s big skies, wide open spaces and dramatic topography. With

shinkansen access and cheap flights, it’s easier than ever to add Hokkaidō to

your itinerary.

Daisetsuzan National Park | IKUYAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sumo

The purifying salt sails into the air. The two giants leap up and crash into

each other. A flurry of slapping and heaving ensues. Who will shove the

other out of the sacred ring and move up in the ranks? From the ancient

rituals to the thrill of the quick bouts, sumo is a fascinating spectacle.

Tournaments take place several times a year, in Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka and

Fukuoka; outside of tournament season you can catch an earlymorning

practice session at one of the stables where wrestlers live and train.

J. HENNING BUCHHOLZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Hiroshima

Hiroshima today is a forward-thinking city with attractive, leafy boulevards.

It’s not until you visit the Peace Memorial Museum that the true extent of

human tragedy wreaked by the atomic bomb becomes vividly clear. A visit

here is a heartbreaking, important history lesson and the park around the

museum, much of which was designed by Japan’s great modernist Tange

Kenzō, offers many opportunities for reflection. But the city’s spirit of

determination – as well as its food – will ensure that you’ll have good

memories to take with you when you leave.

Peace Memorial Park | F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Kamikōchi

One of the most stunning natural vistas in Japan, Kamikōchi is a highland

river valley enveloped by the soaring peaks of the Northern Japan Alps.

Easy day hikes are possible along the pristine Azusa-gawa through tranquil

forests of willow, larch and elm trees. The birthplace of Japanese alpinism,

Kamikōchi is also the gateway for more challenging treks up some of the

country’s tallest mountains, such as Yariga-take (3180m). Private cars are

banned from Kamikōchi, which lessens the impact of the crowds.

Oku-hotaka-dake | PIUS LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Okinawa and the Southwest Islands offer a totally different experience from

the rest of Japan. This semi-tropical archipelago forms an arch between

Kyūshū and Taiwan. Until annexed by Japan in the 19th century, they

formed their own kingdom – the Ryūkyū Empire – and the cultural

differences are apparent in everything down to the architecture and food.

This is where you’ll find Japan’s best beaches, like those in Ishigaki and

Kerama, with sugar-white sand fringed with palms and turquoise waters.

Bask in the sun, or snorkel and scuba dive.

Kabira Bay | SHIKEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Kōya-san

Riding the funicular up to the sacred Buddhist monastic complex of Kōya-

san feels, appropriately, like ascending to another world. There are over a

hundred temples here, the highlight of which is Oku-no-in, where paths

weave their way among towering cryptomeria trees and time-worn stone

stupas covered in moss and lichen. Other temples offer a different

experience: the chance to spend the night, dine on traditional vegetarian

Buddhist cuisine and wake up early for (optional) morning meditation with

the resident monks.

TWOKIM IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Yakushima

Yakushima, a small island off the coast of southern Kyūshū, is often

described as magical, enchanting – other-worldly even. It’s a place where

words fail and clichés step in. Home to some of Japan’s last primeval forest,

here you’ll find the yakusugi, an ancient cedar native to the island, whose

giant roots form alien tentacles. Hiking trails underneath them cover craggy

terrain often fuzzy with moss. The landscape here is believed to have been

an inspiration for the iconic animated film Princess Mononoke.

RO PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Osaka

Tokyo doesn’t nab all the superlatives when it comes to urban experiences.

Osaka, Japan’s third-largest city, is tops for street food: don’t miss its

signature dish, tako-yaki (grilled octopus dumplings). It also has the most

dramatic of nightscapes: a dazzling display of LED lights, animated signage

and flashing video screens along the canalside strip Dōtombori. The city,

Japan’s oldest merchant centre, has a pace, spirit and zest for life all of its

own: it’s unofficial slogan is kuidaore (eat until you drop).

TOOYKRUB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Shikoku

Of Japan’s four major islands, Shikoku is the smallest, the least populated

and the least visited – and we don’t mean that as a slight at all. This is the

place for a deep dive into rural Japan and all its spectacular, scenic glory.

There are riveting gorges crossed by old-fashioned vine bridges, rapids and

lazy rivers, sacred mountains to climb and old farmhouses to sleep in.

Shikoku is most famous for its 88-temple pilgrimage; several of them are

truly amazing, perched on peaks accessible by foot or ropeway.

Ritsurin-kōen | LIN CHIACHING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Castles

Japan’s castles are evocative of its feudal past, peopled with fearsome

samurai, whisper-footed ninja and all-powerful shoguns. The graceful

curving roofs of the castle keeps, often stacked several storeys high, are

emblematic of the country’s traditional architecture. Japanese castles are

made of wood, though they might sit atop foundations of enormous stones.

Few originals survive; among those that do, the must-sees are the recently

restored ‘White Egret Castle’, Himeji-jō, and its natural foil, Matsumoto-jō,

the fearsome black ‘Crow Castle’.

ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Festivals

Catching a matsuri (traditional festival) is like stepping back in time: men

and women wear colourful cotton kimono – and sometimes the men just

wear short coats and fundoshi (the loincloths worn by sumo wrestlers). Some

see rollicking parades of portable shrines or floats go through the streets;

others involve dancing, bonfires or drumming. These celebrations have their

roots in Shintō and Buddhist traditions, but they also serve to renew age-old

community bonds. August sees the lion’s share of festivals, but they happen

year-round. For major events, book accommodation well in advance.

ARTEM MISHUKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Yen (¥)

Language

Japanese

Visas

Visas are issued on arrival for most nationalities for stays of up to 90 days.

Money

In cities, credit cards are widely accepted; rural areas are hit and miss. Post offices and most convenience

stores have international ATMs.

Mobile Phones

Japan operates on the 3G and 4G (LTE) networks. Prepaid data-only SIM cards (for unlocked smartphones

only) are widely available at the airport or electronics stores.

Time

Japan Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus nine hours)

When to Go

High Season (Apr & May, Aug)

A Cherry-blossom season (late March to early April), Golden Week (early May) and O-Bon (mid-

August) are peak travel periods, when sights will be crowded and accommodation more

expensive (and often fully booked).

A Mountain (read: cooler) destinations are most popular in August; this is also the month for

many festivals.

Shoulder (Jun & Jul, Sep–Nov)

A Autumn foliage draws crowds during specific periods in October and November (depending on

elevation).

Low Season (Dec–Mar)

A Sights are uncrowded and accommodation at its cheapest.

A The exception is the ski resorts, which are now hitting their stride.

A Many businesses close over the New Year period (end of December to early January).

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/japan) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Japan National Tourism Organization (www.jnto.go.jp) Official tourist site with planning tools and events calendar; download its useful Japan Official Travel App.

Navitime Travel (https://travel.navitime.com) Tourist info; get its app, Japan Travel, for working out transit routes.

Japan Meteorological Agency (www.jma.go.jp) Get up-to-the-minute weather advisories – a must before heading out on hikes (especially during typhoon season).

Japan Cheapo (www.japancheapo.com) Full of tips for how to stretch your yen. has a comprehensive sister site www.tokyocheapo.com.

Important Numbers

Drop the 0 in the area code when dialling from abroad.

Ambulance & fire

%119

Police

%110

Country code

%81

International access code

%010

Exchange Rates

Australia

A$1

¥78

Canada

C$1

¥82

Europe

€1

¥124

New Zealand

NZ$1

¥76

UK

£1

¥145

US

US$1

¥110

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than ¥8000 (Less than ¥10,000 in Tokyo & Kyoto)

A Dorm bed: ¥3000

A Bowl of noodles: ¥750

A Happy-hour beer: ¥500

A City one-day subway pass: ¥600

A One temple or museum entry: ¥500

Midrange: ¥8000–20,000 (¥10,000–25,000 in Tokyo & Kyoto)

A Double room at a business hotel: ¥10,000

A Dinner for two at an izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery): ¥6000

A Half-day cycling tour or cooking class: ¥5000

A Temple and museum entries: ¥1500

Top End: More than ¥20,000 (More than ¥25,000 in Tokyo & Kyoto)

A Double room in a nice hotel: from ¥25,000

A Dinner for two at a good sushi restaurant: from ¥15,000

A Taxi ride between city sights: ¥2500

Arriving in Japan

Narita Airport (Tokyo) Express trains and buses run frequently to central Tokyo (around ¥3000; one to

two hours) between 6am and 10.30pm. Taxis cost ¥20,000 to ¥22,000.

Haneda Airport (Tokyo) Trains and buses (¥400 to ¥1200, 30 to 45 minutes) to central Tokyo run

frequently from 5.30am to midnight; times and costs depend on your destination in the city. There are only

a couple of night buses. For a taxi budget between ¥6000 and ¥8000.

Kansai International Airport (Osaka) Express trains run frequently to Kyoto (from ¥2850, 75 minutes)

and Osaka (¥1430, 40 minutes). Buses cost ¥1050 to ¥1550 to central Osaka (50 minutes), ¥2550 to Kyoto

(90 minutes). Trains and buses stop running close to midnight. A shared taxi service to Kyoto costs ¥4200;

a standard taxi to Osaka starts at ¥14,000.

Getting Around

Train The most popular way to see Japan: trains are fast, efficient, reliable and can get you just about

anywhere; discount rail passes make train travel very affordable.

Ferry Good for getting to far-flung islands or for fans of slow travel.

Bus The cheapest way to make long-haul journeys and the only way to get to some mountain and rural

destinations.

Car Rental cars are widely available; roads are well-maintained and signposted in English. Especially

recommended in Hokkaidō, Kyūshū and Okinawa. Drive on the left.

Air An extensive network of domestic flights and an increased presence of budget carriers makes air travel

a good option for long distances or time-pressed itineraries.

For much more on Getting Around

First Time Japan

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Work out which Japan Rail Pass works best for your itinerary and purchase a voucher online

in advance for a discount.

A Get an international licence if you plan to rent a car.

A Check with your embassy or the Japanese customs agency if your prescription medicines are

legal in Japan (and if any import procedures are required).

What to Pack

A Slip-on shoes, as you’ll be taking off your shoes a lot.

A Any over-the-counter medications you might want, as finding local equivalents may be

challenging.

A As little as possible! Hotel rooms are small and trains can get crowded. You can buy most

things you’ll need.

Top Tips for Your Trip

A The Japan Rail Pass offers unlimited use of the extensive, fast and efficient

Japan Rail system; if your itinerary focuses on a limited area, look into regional

rail passes, which are cheaper.

A Stay a night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) and visit an onsen (hot

spring), both ways to engage with local culture.

A Splurge at lunch. Many restaurants offer midday meals that cost half (or

less!) of what you’d find at dinner, often for a meal that is not significantly

smaller or lower in quality.

A Rent a pocket wi-fi device. Some places have free wi-fi networks but they

can be frustratingly clunky. Constant internet access means you can rely on

navigation apps to help you get around.

What to Wear

Dressing in layers is ideal. Japanese tend to dress smartly, but casual clothes

are fine even in the cities. Some high-end restaurants and bars do have a dress

code, but this usually just means no sleeveless shirts or sandals on men. Even

during sandal season you may want to carry socks to slip into to avoid walking

barefoot when you need to take your shoes off. You also may find yourself

sitting on the floor, so dress comfortably for that. Many traditional inns can get

chilly in the colder months; warm socks and a fleece are a good idea.

Sleeping

Japan offers a wide and excellent range of accommodation. Advance booking

is highly recommended.

Hotels Midrange and luxury, domestic and international chains, and a few boutique properties can be

found in all major cities.

Business Hotels Compact, economic rooms clustered around train stations.

Ryokan Traditional Japanese inns, found usually in countryside and resort areas.

Hostels & Guesthouses Affordable and plentiful in tourist destinations, often with English-speaking staff

Capsule Hotels Sleeping berths the size of a single bed.

Bargaining

Bargaining is not common practice in Japan; flea markets are an exception, but

a hard approach would still be considered rude.

Cash

Be warned that there are still places in rural Japan that don’t accept credit

cards. It’s wise to assume you’ll need to pay cash at ryokan and smaller

restaurants and shops; stock up when you’re in a town with an ATM.

Tipping

Tipping is not customary in Japan.

High-end restaurants & hotels usually add a 10% service fee to the bill.

Language

The level of English ability in Japan is generally low – or random at best.

Cities and popular destinations are well-signposted in English and will have

Tourist Information Centres (TICs) with English-speaking staff; restaurants in

these areas will also often have English menus. Rural areas are more hit or

miss, though most TICs will have some English-language material, such as

local maps. Most Japanese are more comfortable with written than spoken

English, so whenever possible, email is often the best means of

communicating, for example when booking accommodation.

See Language chapter.

PHRASES TO LEARN BEFORE YOU GO

Etiquette

Japan is famous for its etiquette, though it’s not as strict (or as consistent) as

you might think.

Greetings Japanese typically greet each other with a slight bow, but may greet foreigners with a

handshake; hugging and cheek kissing is considered alarming.

Queuing Join the queue, usually a neat line.

Public Transport It’s bad form to eat or drink on public transport, except when riding the shinkansen

(bullet train), or reserved-seat limited express trains; beverages in resealable containers are an exception.

Shoes Off Many lodgings and restaurants (and some attractions) request you leave your shoes at the door.

Just take a quick look around – for a sign or slippers in the foyer – to see if this rule applies. Never wear

shoes or slippers on tatami (woven floor mats).

Religious Sites There is no dress code for visiting a shrine or temple but it’s polite to keep your voice

down.

What’s New

New Toyosu Market

In a move years in the making, Tsukiji’s famous wholesale market moved to

a new, state-of-the-art facility in Toyosu in autumn 2018. A taste of the old

market can still be found at Tsukiji Market, which remains in place.

teamLab Borderless

Tokyo’s hottest new attraction is this museum holding some 60 installations

from Japan’s leading digital-art collective, teamLab. It’s an immersive,

interactive art experience unlike anything else.

Yayoi Kusama Museum

Another noteworthy opening in Tokyo is this museum, devoted to one of

Japan’s most prominent contemporary artists. Admission is limited, so book

well in advance.

Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum

Kyoto’s small new ukiyo-e (woodblock print) museum is now the

permanent home of Hokusai’s The Great Wave off Kanagawa – perhaps the

most iconic ukiyo-e work ever.

Nikkō Restorations

For years Nikkō has been restoring its 17th-century shrines and temples.

Work on Tōshō-gū’s spectacular gate, Yōmei-mon, is already complete,

with the whole project scheduled to finish in March 2020.

Sanriku Kaigan Rail Lines Restored

Heavily damaged by the 2011 tsunami, the Sanriku Railway lines are now

up and running, with a final new section added in 2019. It’s now possible to

travel the whole coast between Ōfunato and Kuji.

Michinoku Coastal Trail

Parts of this 700km hiking trail, along northern Honshū’s east coast

between Soma in Fukushima Prefecture and Hachinohe in Aomori

Prefecture, are already open, with the whole route set to be completed by

the end of 2019.

Guesthouses Everywhere

Suddenly it seems every small city (and even some rural destinations) has at

least one very cool guesthouse, usually run by a savvy, local English-

speaker. This makes travelling outside the major cities cheaper, easier – and

way more fun.

Designer Hotels

In Tokyo and Kyoto the design wars are heating up, with several new

properties, from both established international hoteliers, like Four Seasons,

and local upstarts, like BnA, promising an all-encompassing aesthetic

experience.

Sake & Tea

Japan went all in on the recent craft beer and third-wave coffee trends, but

now we’re seeing that same spirit of innovation and attention to detail being

poured into two distinctly Japanese drinks: tea and sake. Keep an eye out

for craft sake bars and third-wave-style teahouses, especially in Tokyo and

Kyoto.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/Japan

If You Like…

Temples & Shrines

Kinkaku-ji Kyoto’s iconic golden temple.

Tōdai-ji Grand wooden home of Nara’s famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha) statue.

Sensō-ji Tokyo’s most famous Buddhist temple and a pilgrimage site for more than a millennium.

Tōshō-gū Ornate mausoleum for Japan’s legendary shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Oku-no-in Other-worldly, ancient Buddhist temple full of moss-covered stupas and soaring cedars.

Ise-jingū Japan’s spiritual centre, dedicated to the Sun Goddess.

Zenkō-ji Nagano temple with fascinating secret passages and stories.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha Photogenic procession of torii (gates) up a Kyoto hillside.

Gardens

Kenroku-en Kanazawa’s strolling garden is considered a masterpiece of the form.

Ryōan-ji Kyoto’s famous Zen rock garden.

Ritsurin-kōen Seventeenth-century landscape garden in Takamatsu, once the playground of lords.

Katsura Rikyū Former imperial villa with gardens that unfold in a series of stunning vistas.

Byōdō-in Rare surviving example of a Heian-era ‘Pure Land’ garden.

Saihō-ji Kyoto’s ‘Koke-dera’ (moss temple) has enchanting, velvety grounds.

Adachi Museum of Art The museum’s picturesque landscape garden rivals the paintings inside.

Kōraku-en Sprawling strolling garden with ponds and teahouses in Okayama.

Katsura Rikyū garden, Kyoto | CHEN MIN CHUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Crafts

Downtown Kyoto Japan’s highest concentration of high-class shops specialising in crafts like washi

(Japanese handmade paper).

Kanazawa A city with a well-preserved artisan culture, especially known for lacquerware and gold

leaf.

Bizen Pottery centre known for its bold earthenware; tour a kiln or shop the galleries.

Morioka The place in Japan to buy tea kettles and other wares made of cast iron.

Kyūshū Ceramic Museum See examples of the different styles produced in this region famous for

pottery.

Kogensya Sendai boutique with high-quality crafts from all over northern Honshū.

Tsuboya Pottery Street Folksy Okinawan pottery in Naha.

Markets

Nishiki Market Kyoto’s central food market, with plenty of packaged items – like rice crackers and

sake – for souvenirs.

Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba Naha’s central market brims with island specialities.

Asa-ichi A mix of old and new at this morning market at the tip of the Noto Peninsula.

Dōguya-suji Arcade Covered arcade for myriad kitchenware items in Osaka.

Sunday Market Running for over 300 years with all sorts of stalls in Kōchi.

Ōmi-chō Market Kanazawa’s central fish market, full of tasty creatures from the Sea of Japan.

Ameya-yokochō Tokyo’s last open-air market dates to the tumultuous days after WWII.

Hakodate Morning Market Popular spot for browsing and seafood breakfast in southern Hokkaidō.

Architecture

Naoshima An island of contemporary art museums, including several designed by Japanese architect

Tadao Ando.

Omote-sandō Boutique-lined Tokyo boulevard that’s also a showcase for contemporary Japanese

design.

DT Suzuki Museum Meditative monument to Zen scholar DT Suzuki by Taniguchi Yoshio.

Meiji-mura Repository for fascinating examples of Meiji period (1868–1912) architecture, when Japan

opened to Western influence.

Miho Museum IM Pei–designed museum of ancient artefacts sunk into a mountain.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Tokyo’s city hall, by pre-eminent modernist Tange Kenzō.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Shinjuku | COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pop Culture

Akihabara Tokyo’s famous hot spot for fans of anime, manga and video games.

Ghibli Museum Enchanting museum designed by Japan’s leading animator, Miyazaki Hayao (the king

of Japanese anime).

Unicorn Gundam True-to-size model from the beloved anime series Gundam lording over Tokyo Bay.

Kyoto International Manga Museum Galleries of manga, plus special exhibitions and workshops.

Mizuki Shigeru Museum Pilgrimage spot in western Honshū for fans of Mizuki’s other-worldly

characters.

Godzilla Head See the monstrous icon of Japanese pop culture among Tokyo’s skyscrapers.

MariCAR Cosplay (costume play) go-karting through the streets of Tokyo.

Beaches

Nishibama Beach This stretch of Aka-jima is possibly the best of several white-sand stunners in

Okinawa’s Kerama Islands.

Sunayama Beach Postcard-perfect beach with a rock arch on Miyako-jima.

Habushi-ura This long sandy stretch on Nii-jima is a favourite destination for Tokyo surfers.

Kominato Kaigan Quintessential tropical scene 1000km from the mainland, on Chichi-jima.

Ikumi Beach Laid-back hub of Shikoku’s growing surfing community.

Ōkinohama Two-kilometre stretch of unspoilt sand in remote southwest Shikoku.

Castles

Himeji-jō Majestic castle, original (but recently restored) and considered the greatest in the country.

Matsumoto-jō Japan’s oldest surviving wooden castle, in the mountains of Nagano.

Matsue-jō Excellent views from atop the original wooden keep and boat rides around the moat.

Matsuyama-jō Among Japan’s finest original castles, lording over Matsuyama on the island of

Shikoku.

Hikone-jō This 17th-century stunner has a rare, intact keep.

Inuyama-jō Japan’s oldest standing castle began life as a fort in 1440.

Nijō-jō Kyoto’s castle is known for its ‘nightingale’ floors that creak when you walk on them.

Shuri-jō The seat of power of the former Ryūkyū Empire, painstakingly reconstructed from historical

records.

Osaka-jō Reconstruction of Osaka’s famously flamboyant castle.

Museums

Tokyo National Museum Home to the world’s largest collection of Japanese art.

Kyoto National Museum Kyoto’s top museum with classical artworks, historical artefacts and temple

treasures.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum Evocative (and often heartbreaking) account of the atomic bomb

and its aftermath.

Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum Deep dive into Okinawa’s history, way of life and

ecosystem.

Mori Art Museum Blockbuster shows by top contemporary Japanese and foreign artists.

Kyūshū National Museum A collection that highlights the island’s historical ties to the Asian

continent.

Edo-Tokyo Museum The story of how a fishing village evolved into a sprawling, modern metropolis.

Scenic Views

Miyajima See the island’s famous floating torii (gate) at high tide.

Matsushima Look over the bay towards the hundreds of tiny windswept islands, spiked with wispy

pines.

Kamikōchi Admire the snowcapped peaks of the Japan Alps from this idyllic river valley.

Kussharo-ko Crystal-blue caldera lake in Hokkaidō, best viewed from the mountains above.

Imasa-yama See Nagasaki’s stunning nightscape from atop this nearby mountain.

Iya Valley Head to Oku-Iya (‘deep Iya’) to see the vine bridges suspended over the gorge.

Hakone Catch a glimpse of Mt Fuji reflected in Ashino-ko on a clear winter morning.

Train Journeys

Kurobe Gorge Railway Thrill ride along bridges suspended over the dramatic Kurobe Gorge.

Ibutama Limited Express Wood-panelled with window-facing seats, rounding the scenic coast from

Kagoshima to Ibusuki.

Resort Shirakami Stylish sightseeing train hugging the rugged northern coast between Akita and

Aomori.

Sunrise Seto/Izumo Japan’s last old-school sleeper train travels from Tokyo to Takamatsu and Izumo.

JR Senmō Line Tiny two-car train running along Hokkaidō’s northern coast, past antique wooden

stations.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Yuki Matsuri, February

Hanami (Cherry-Blossom Viewing), April

Sanja Matsuri, May

Gion Matsuri, July

Nebuta Matsuri, August

January

Japan comes to life again after the lull of the New Year holiday. Winter

grips the country in the mountains and in the north, ushering in ski

season (take care when driving in snow country).

z Shōgatsu (New Year)

Families come together to eat and drink to health and happiness. The

holiday is officially 1 to 3 January, but many businesses and attractions

close the whole first week, and transport is busy. Hatsu-mōde is the ritual

first shrine visit of the new year.

z Coming-of-Age Day

The second Monday of January is Seijin-no-hi (Coming-of-Age Day), the

collective birthday for all who have turned 20 (the age of majority) in the

past year. Young women don gorgeous kimonos for ceremonies at Shintō

shrines.

February

February is the coldest month and the peak of Japan’s ski season.

z Setsubun Matsuri

The first day of spring is 3 February in the traditional lunar calendar, a shift

once believed to bode evil. As a precaution, people visit Buddhist temples,

toss roasted beans and shout ‘Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!’ (‘Devil out!

Fortune in!’).

z Mantōrō

Nara’s Kasuga Taisha celebrates Setsubun by lighting its 3000 stone and

bronze lanterns during this festival, which also happens over O-Bon.

z Yuki Matsuri

Two million visitors head to Sapporo’s annual snow festival in early

February. Highlights include the international snow sculpture contest, ice

slides and mazes for kids, and plenty of drunken revelry. Book

accommodation very early.

z Plum-Blossom Viewing

Plum (ume) blossoms, which appear towards the end of the month, are the

first sign that winter is ending.

March

Spring begins in fits and starts. The Japanese have a saying: sankan-

shion – three days cold, four days warm.

z Hina Matsuri

On and around 3 March (also known as Girls’ Day), public spaces and

homes are decorated with o-hina-sama (princess) dolls in traditional royal

dress.

z Anime Japan

Anime Japan (www.anime-japan.jp), the world’s largest anime (Japanese

animation) fair, takes place in Tokyo in late March. There are events and

exhibitions for industry insiders and fans alike.

April

Warmer weather and blooming cherry trees make this a fantastic

month to be in Japan, though places like Kyoto can get very crowded.

z Hanami (Cherry-Blossom Viewing)

When the cherry blossoms burst into bloom, the Japanese hold rollicking

hanami (blossom viewing) parties. The blossoms are fickle and hard to

time: on average, they hit their peak in Tokyo or Kyoto between 25 March

and 7 April.

z Takayama Spring Matsuri

On 14 and 15 April the mountain town of Takayama hosts the spring

installment of its famous festival. This is the more elaborate of the two (the

other is in October), with parades of spectacular floats lit with lanterns and

a lion dance. Book accommodation well in advance.

May

May is one of the best months to visit: it’s warm and sunny in most

places and the fresh green in the mountains is beautiful. Be wary of the

travel crush during the Golden Week holiday.

z Sanja Matsuri

The grandest Tokyo festival of all, this three-day event, held over the third

weekend of May, attracts around 1.5 million spectators to Asakusa. The

highlight is the rowdy parade of mikoshi (portable shrines) carried by men

and women in traditional dress.

1 Roppongi Art Night

Held in late May, this weekend-long (literally, venues stay open all night)

arts event (www.roppongiartnight.com) sees large-scale installations and

performances taking over the museums, galleries and streets of Roppongi.

June

Early June is lovely, though by the end of the month tsuyu (the rainy

season) sets in. As mountain snow melts, hiking season begins in the

Japan Alps (though double-check for higher elevations).

z Hyakumangoku Matsuri

In early June, Kanazawa’s biggest festival celebrates the city’s 16th-century

glory days with period-costume parades, cultural performances and more.

July

When the rainy season passes, suddenly it’s summer – the season for

festivals and hanabi taikai (fireworks shows). It does get very hot and

humid; head to Hokkaidō or the Japan Alps to escape the heat.

2 Mt Fuji Climbing Season

Mt Fuji officially opens to climbing on 1 July, and the months of July and

August are ideal for climbing the peak.

z Gion Matsuri

The most vaunted festival in Japan is held on 17 and 24 July in Kyoto,

when huge, elaborate floats are pulled through the streets. Three evenings

prior to the 17th, locals stroll through street markets dressed in beautiful

yukata (light cotton kimonos). Accommodation is expensive and difficult to

find.

z Tenjin Matsuri

Held in Osaka on 24 and 25 July, this is one of the country’s biggest

festivals. On the second day, processions of mikoshi (portable shrines) and

people in traditional attire parade through the streets, ending up in hundreds

of boats on the river.

3 Fuji Rock Festival

Japan’s biggest music festival takes place over one long (and often wildly

muddy and fun) weekend at a mountain resort in Niigata in late July. Big-

name acts on the large stages; indie bands on the smaller ones.

z Peiron Dragon-Boat Races

In late July, dragon-boat races are held in the harbour of Nagasaki, a

tradition introduced from China in the 17th century.

August

Hot, humid weather and festivals continuing apace. School holidays

mean beaches and cooler mountain areas get crowded. Many Japanese

return to their home towns (or take a holiday) around O-Bon, so transit

is hectic and shops may close.

z Summer Fireworks Festivals

Towns across Japan hold spectacular summer fireworks festivals in late July

and early August. Among the best: Sumida-gawa Fireworks festival

(Tokyo, late July), Lake Biwa Fireworks festival (near Kyoto, early August)

and Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival (near Hiroshima, mid-August).

z World Cosplay Summit

Some 30 countries compete in early August (or late July) in Nagoya to see

who has the best cosplayers (manga and anime fans who dress up as their

fave characters).

z Sendai Tanabata Matsuri

Sendai’s biggest event celebrates a Chinese legend about the stars Vega and

Altair, stand-ins for two star-crossed lovers who meet once a year on 7 July

(on the old lunar calendar, early August on the modern one). Downtown is

decorated with coloured streamers.

z Nebuta Matsuri

Over several days in early August, enormous, illuminated floats are paraded

through the streets of Aomori in Northern Honshū accompanied by

thousands of rowdy, chanting dancers. A famous festival; book

accommodation early.

1 Peace Memorial Ceremony

On 6 August a memorial service is held in Hiroshima for victims of the

WWII atomic bombing of the city. Thousands of paper lanterns are floated

down the river.

z Matsumoto Bonbon

Matsumoto’s biggest event takes place on the first Saturday in August,

when hordes of people perform the city’s signature ‘bonbon’ dance through

the streets.

z O-Bon (Festival of the Dead)

Three days in mid-August are set aside to honour the dead, when their

spirits are said to return to the earth. Graves are swept, offerings are made

and lanterns are floated down rivers, lakes or the sea to help guide spirits on

their journey.

z Awa-odori Matsuri

The city of Tokushima, on the southern island of Shikoku, comes alive in

mid-August for the nation’s largest and most famous bon dance. These

dances, part of O-Bon celebrations, are performed to welcome the souls of

the departed back to this world.

z Rōsoku Matsuri

Kōya-san’s already deeply atmospheric Oku-no-in is lit with some 100,000

candles on 13 August for Rōsoku Matsuri during O-Bon.

z Daimon-ji Gozan Okuribi

Huge fires in the shape of Chinese characters and other symbols are set

alight in the hills around Kyoto during this festival, which forms part of the

O-Bon rites. It’s one of Japan’s most impressive spectacles.

3 Earth Celebration

The island of Sado-gashima, off the coast of northern Honshū, is the scene

of this internationally famous festival of dance, art and music, held in late

August. Highlights include taiko (drum) performances and workshops.

BUSY TRAVEL TIMES

Most Japanese are on holiday from 29 April to 5 May, when a series of national holidays

coincide (called ‘Golden Week’). This is one of the busiest times for domestic travel, so be

prepared for crowded transport and accommodation. Many businesses close for a week in mid-

August, as Japanese return to their home towns for O-Bon festivities (or go on holiday

instead). Restaurants and shops start shutting down from 29 December for the New Year

holiday, which ends on 3 January (though many places close until 6 January). During this time,

transport runs and accommodation remains open, but it’s pricey.

September

Days are still warm, hot even, though less humid. Though the odd

typhoon rolls through this time of year, this is generally a great time to

travel in Japan.

3 Jōzenji Street Jazz Festival

Over the second weekend in September, this festival draws buskers from all

over the country to play in Sendai’s streets and arcades.

z Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri

Osaka’s wildest festival, held over the third weekend in September, is a

kind of running of the bulls except with danjiri (festival floats), many

weighing more than 3000kg – take care and stand back. Most of the action

takes place on the second day.

z Moon Viewing

Full moons in September and October call for tsukimi, moon-viewing

gatherings. People eat tsukimi dango – mochi (pounded rice) dumplings,

round like the moon.

October

Pleasantly warm days and cool evenings make this an excellent time to

be in Japan. The autumn foliage peaks in the Japan Alps at this time.

z Matsue Suitōro

Held on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays throughout October in the

western Honshū city of Matsue, this festival of light and water takes place

around the city’s scenic castle. Lanterns are floated in the moat and rival

drumming groups compete on the banks.

z Asama Onsen Taimatsu Matsuri

In early October, Asama Onsen in Matsumoto holds this spectacular fire

festival, which sees groups of men, women and children parade burning

bales of hay through narrow streets en route to an enormous bonfire.

6 Yokohama Oktoberfest

For two weeks in early October much beer drinking goes down during this

event held in Yokohama’s historic harbour district.

z Kurama-no-hi Matsuri

On 22 October, this festival sees loin-clothed men carrying huge flaming

torches through the streets of the tiny hamlet of Kurama in the mountains

north of Kyoto.

3 Performing Arts Festivals

Tokyo’s annual performing arts festival, Festival/Tokyo (www.festival-

tokyo.jp) is held over a month from mid-October to mid-November at

venues around the city. Kyoto’s edgier Kyoto Experiment (www.kyoto-

ex.jp) is held around the same time.

z Halloween

Japan has taken to Halloween in a big way. Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing

draws thousands of costumed revellers on 31 October. Osaka’s Amerika-

Mura becomes one big street party.

November

Crisp and cool days with snow starting to fall in the mountains.

Autumn foliage peaks in and around Tokyo and Kyoto, drawing

crowds.

z Shichi-go-san (7-5-3 Festival)

This adorable festival in mid-November sees parents dress girls aged seven

(shichi) and three (san) and boys aged five (go) in wee kimonos and head to

Shintō shrines for blessings.

December

December is cold across most of Japan. Year-end parties fill city bars

and restaurants; commercial strips are decorated with seasonal

illuminations. Many businesses shut down from 29 or 30 December to

between 3 and 6 January.

1 Luminarie

Kōbe streets are lined with elaborate, illuminated arches every year for this

event in early December, in memory of the victims of the 1995 Great

Hanshin Earthquake.

5 Toshikoshi Soba

Eating buckwheat noodles on New Year’s Eve, a tradition called toshikoshi

soba, is said to bring luck and longevity – the latter symbolised by the

length of the noodles.

z Joya-no-kane

Temple bells around Japan ring 108 times at midnight on 31 December, a

purifying ritual .

Plan Your Trip

Itineraries

Tokyo, Kyoto & Hiroshima

10 DAYS

This classic route for first-time visitors hits many of Japan’s star

attractions, can be done year-round and takes advantage of the

excellent value and seamless travel offered by a Japan Rail Pass.

Start with a couple of days in Tokyo, getting your bearings and a taste of

big-city Japan – the skyscrapers, the bustle and all those lights. Then hop on

the bullet train for Kyoto. (If you wait until now to activate your rail pass,

you can get by with a seven-day pass.)

You’ll need two or three days to sample the best of Kyoto’s temples and

gardens. From here you can make side trips to Nara, home of the Daibutsu

(Great Buddha), and Osaka, famous for its vivid nightscape and street food.

Then head west on to Himeji to see Japan’s best castle, Himeji-jō.

Next stop is Hiroshima, for the moving Peace Memorial Park. Further

down the coast is Miyajima, with its photogenic floating shrine. You can

spend the night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) here before making the

train journey back to Tokyo. On your way back there, drop into the mountain

hot-spring resort of Hakone to get your onsen fix.

Tokyo Skytree | ARCHITECT NIKKEN SEKKEI; SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto | MARCOCIANNAREL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Kyoto, Kanazawa & the Japan Alps

2 WEEKS

This route highlights Japan’s traditional culture and its natural

beauty. As snow can close mountain passes in winter, it is best

undertaken in spring, summer or autumn.

Spend the first few days in Kyoto exploring the city’s famous temples,

shrines and gardens. Be sure to budget some time for the less-famous ones

too, which are more peaceful, and for a day trip to Nara. Both Kyoto and

Nara have excellent national museums with classical art and artefacts. In the

evenings, stroll Kyoto’s historic geisha district.

Next take the train to Kanazawa, a city that, in its heyday, rivalled Kyoto

in its contributions to the arts. As befitting its location near the Sea of Japan,

Kanazawa is known for excellent seafood, but also for its lasting artisan

tradition and its strolling garden, Kenroku-en. Both Kyoto and Kanazawa are

excellent places to shop for traditional crafts.

Now get a car and head for the mountains of Hida. The villages of

Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama are famed for their farmhouses with

dramatically angled thatched roofs. Continue to Takayama, a charming old

post town with well-preserved wooden buildings (now housing galleries,

sake breweries and craft shops) and narrow streets.

Then head to Shin-Hotaka Onsen for outstanding rustic onsen (hot

springs) and ryokan (traditional Japanese inns), followed by a visit to

Kamikōchi for alpine scenery and hiking (closed from 15 November to 22

April). You’ll eat well travelling in the mountains: local specialities include

soba (buckwheat noodles), beef, hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled on a

magnolia leaf) and foraged mushrooms and shoots.

From here drive east to the castle town of Matsumoto, home to one of

Japan’s best original castles, Matsumoto-jō. Near Nagano, pretty Obuse,

another well-preserved mountain town, is home to the Hokusai Museum.

End your trip in Nagano with a visit to the city’s impressive temple, Zenkō-

ji.

Nagano has a shinkansen (bullet train) station, so you can catch a train

onward or drive straight on to Narita Airport.

Matsumoto-jō | PIUS LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Zenkō-ji | PHUONG D. NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Tokyo, Mt Fuji & Around

1 WEEK

Japan often feels like a destination that requires a long trip and

advance planning, but it needn’t be. In and around Tokyo you can

cover a lot of varied terrain, taking in both contemporary and

traditional Japan.

Base yourself in Tokyo and do day trips or hop around. In three or four days

you can take in the capital’s highlights, eating well, and still have time to

explore some of its less touristy neighbourhoods, like Shimo-Kitazawa and

Kōenji.

Mt Fuji is open to hikers from June through mid-September; you can do it

as one long overnight climb – to hit the summit for sunrise – or stay a night

in a mountain hut. Year-round, visit the Fuji Five Lakes region for views of

the iconic volcano.

For temples and shrines head north to Nikkō, with 17th-century structures

set among cedars, or south to Kamakura, a one-time medieval capital with

many Zen temples. On the Pacific coast, Kamakura is also a hip beach town

with cafes and surf shops.

Round off your trip with a visit to the hot-spring resort Hakone. There are

spa complexes here for day trippers, or you can splurge on a night in a

ryokan.

Mt Fuji | BLANSCAPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kamakura | OMJAI CHALARD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Kansai In Depth

2 WEEKS

Take a slow, deep dive into Japanese history and culture; you’ll

cover a lot without having to travel far. Arranged with public

transport in mind, this itinerary is possible year-round, though

Kōya-san will be cold and possibly snowy in winter. Fly in and out

of Kansai International Airport.

Start with Kyoto, Japan’s cultural storehouse, and spend several leisurely

days exploring. Then head to Nara – not for the typical day trip – but for a

few days’ trip. Beyond the city there are fascinating historic temples, very

old shrines and country rambles around Sakurai and pre-Buddhist burial

mounds around Asuka.

Then pop over to Osaka for a jolt of city life, before taking the train to

Kōya-san. This mountain monastery was founded in the 8th century and is

still active today; spend the night in a temple for a taste of monk life.

Buses run April through November to your next destination, the ancient

pilgrim trails of the Kumano Kodō. Outside of these months you’ll need to

do some backtracking via train. Spend a few days walking through woods

and rural hamlets, to temples, shrines and some of Kansai’s best onsen

between Hongū, Shingū and Nachi-Katsuura.

Dōtombori, Osaka | NIKADA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Garan temple, Kōya-san | COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

The Wilds of Hokkaidō

2 WEEKS

Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaidō, has much of what you want

out of Japan: steaming onsen and rugged, volcanic peaks, city lights

and foodie cred, as well as something you wouldn’t expect – the

opportunity for an epic road trip. Snow falls early in Hokkaidō, so

this is a summer trip.

Start in Hakodate, Hokkaidō’s southernmost port, which has a charming

19th-century city centre. The journey here by shinkansen (bullet train) takes

four hours from Tokyo (though it’s probably cheaper to fly).

After a fresh seafood breakfast at Hakodate’s fish market, pick up a rental

car and drive to Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, home to caldera lakes and an

active volcano. Budget time to soak in the springs of Noboribetsu Onsen

inside the park.

Next stop: Sapporo, Hokkaidō’s capital city (and Japan’s fifth-largest).

Get your city fix here, basking in the bright lights of the Susukino district.

Then head to Hokkaidō’s second city, Asahikawa, deep in the interior; also a

famous ramen town. It’s also the gateway for Daisetsuzan National Park,

Japan’s largest national park and a mostly untouched wilderness of dense

forest high in the mountains.

There are three villages on the perimeter of the park: Tokachidake Onsen,

Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen. All have hot springs, lodging and

good day treks. Don’t miss Fukiage Roten-no-yu, near Tokachidake Onsen,

one of Japan’s best in-the-wild onsen. It’s also worth spending a night at

Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō, a truly remote mountain lodge.

Continue east to the World Heritage–listed Shiretoko National Park, a spit

of land that Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, the Ainu, referred to as ‘the end

of the world’. There are hikes here through primeval woods and more hidden

hot springs.

Akan National Park is most famous for its startlingly clear blue caldera

lakes, Kussharo-ko and Mashū-ko. This is also the best place on Hokkaidō to

connect with Ainu culture, starting with a visit to the village, Akan Kotan.

Finally head down to Kushiro-shitsugen National Park, home to the

endangered Japanese red-crowned crane. From Kushiro it’s easy work on the

expressway back to New Chitose Airport, south of Sapporo.

Hiking, Asahi-dake | VARANDAH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ganso Ramen Yokochō, Sapporo | VASSAMON ANANSUKKASEM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Kyūshū & Okinawa

2 WEEKS

Considered off the beaten track, Kyūshū really delivers: it’s got

vibrant cities, layers of history, excellent onsen and smoking

volcanoes. If you’ve been to Japan before, or want to see something

totally different, this trip is for you.

Fly into Fukuoka from Tokyo and spend a day getting to know this hip

young city, famous for its ramen. You can tour Kyūshū easily enough by

train – there’s a rail pass just for the island – but it helps to have a car. This

will come in handy for working your way down the coast to Nagasaki

through the pottery towns, Karatsu and Arita, with a detour to Hirado.

History, of course, weighs heavily on Nagasaki, the second Japanese city

destroyed by an atomic bomb. But as Japan’s only truly open port during the

200-year period of isolation in the 17th to 19th centuries, Nagasaki has

cosmopolitan legacy that predates its historic tragedy and lives on today in

its food and architecture.

From Nagasaki cut into the heartland to Kurokawa Onsen, one of Japan’s

best onsen towns, where you can stay in a ryokan. Continue south, past the

active volcano Aso-san (if it’s calm, you can get close) and the castle town

Kumamoto (still recovering from a 2016 earthquake) to Kagoshima. This

city at the tip of the Shimabara Peninsula is known for tonkatsu (breaded and

fried pork cutlets), shōchū (strong distilled liquor) and Sakurajima – the

smoking volcano that lords over the skyline. South of Kagoshima are the hot

sand baths of Ibusuki.

Return the car and catch a speedboat from Kagoshima to magical

Yakushima, an island with primeval, moss-strewn forests and seaside onsen.

Make it an overnight trip (or longer – there are great hiking options here).

Back in Kagoshima, take the slow ferry for an epic overnight ride to

Okinawa-hontō, the largest of the Okinawa Islands. Spend a day or two

exploring the capital city Naha, the former seat of the Ryūkyū Empire,

sipping fresh juice from the market and getting your fill of island delicacies.

From Naha, it’s a one-hour jet-foil ride to the idyllic, palm-fringed Kerama

Islands – where you can get your beach fix. Then catch a flight back to

Tokyo from Naha.

Waterfall, Yakushima | AIDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kurokawa onsen | DRYADPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Japan by the Seasons

Japan is highly attuned to the seasons – a maiko (apprentice geisha)

has a different hair pin for every month of the year – and your travel

plans should be too. Make the most of your time here by seeking out

the experiences that define each season.

Hirosaki-kōen, Hirosaki | COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Hanami Spots

Maruyama-kōen

Kyoto’s classic hanami spot, known for its yozakura (night blossoms), when the trees are

illuminated after dark.

Yoyogi-kōen

This big grassy Tokyo park becomes a weeklong party scene.

Yoshino

Japan’s most famous cherry-blossom viewing spot is this remote Kansai mountain village with

its hito-me-sen-bon (1000 trees in a glance) viewpoint.

Hirosaki-kōen

There are over 5000 cherry trees in this park on the grounds of a castle in deep Tōhoku

(northern Honshū).

Kakunodate

An old samurai district in Akita (Tōhoku) where the riverbank becomes a tunnel of pink.

Churei-tō Pagoda

The ultimate Japan photo-op is this hillside pagoda surrounded by cherry trees foregrounding

Mt Fuji.

Spring (March–May)

Cherry Blossoms

Spring is, of course, the season for the sakura (cherry blossoms). The season

starts in Kyūshū – Okinawa doesn’t get the same blooms as the rest of Japan

– in mid- to late-March, moving northward and hitting major cities in

Honshū (like Kyoto and Tokyo) as early as late March; the season in Tōhoku

starts in mid-April and in Hokkaidō in late April (these more remote areas

that bloom later see fewer crowds).

The blossoms really peak (‘full bloom’ is called mankai) about a week

after the buds start to open; the weekend nearest to mankai is when the

biggest crowds gather for blossom-viewing parties called hanami. Over the

next week or so the petals start to fall, covering parks and rivers in carpets of

pink. Follow the forecast here: www.kyuhoshi.com/japan-cherry-blossom-

forecast.

HOW TO HANAMI

So you’ve planned your whole trip around the cherry blossoms, but how exactly is hanami

(blossom viewing) done? There are essentially two different styles: a picnic in a park under the

flowering trees or a stroll along a path lined with them; the latter are often lantern-lit in the

evening. Picnics usually start early and the most gung-ho hanami-goers will turn up very early

to secure a prime spot with a plastic ground sheet. However, you can usually find a good sliver

of ground whenever you turn up, unless you’ve got a large group. You can get a ground sheet,

along with food and booze, at a convenience store – or go upscale and stock up on picnic

supplies at a depachika (department store food hall).

More Spring Blooms

Sakura are not the be all and end all of spring blooms: a few weeks later

come the azaleas and the wisteria, followed by the irises in June – Kyoto’s

Kinkaku-ji is framed by them. Anytime in spring is a wonderful time to visit

Japan’s gardens; there’s always something in bloom. Once rainy season sets

in, around late June, the hydrangeas come out, big moon faces of colour

against the misty grey skies; Kamakura and Hakone are both good places to

see them.

Green Mountains

In the mountains fresh green appears in strata, moving higher up in elevation

as May turns into June. It’s still too early to go up too high, but destinations

like Takayama are lovely in spring. So are Shikoku and Kumano Kodō, both old pilgrimage destinations. Rural inns serve dishes with sansai, literally

‘mountain vegetables’ – fresh shoots and fern fronds collected in the

mountains and served atop noodles or in tempura.

Summer (June–August)

Escaping the Heat

Summer in much of Japan is hot and sticky; this time of year the typical

greeting is ‘ Atsui desu ne?’ (Hot, isn’t it?). The cities in particular are

scorching and many locals head to the hills to cool off. Popular destinations

include Hokkaidō – which will be abloom with wildflowers – and mountain

resort towns like Hakone and Karuizawa. This is peak hiking season in the

upper elevations, when you can summit Mt Fuji and head deep into the Alps

and Hokkaidō’s Daisetsuzan National Park.

Japanese school holidays are short – from mid-July through August – and

this is when beach destinations, like those on the Izu Peninsula, the Izu

Islands and the coasts of Kansai, will be full of students and families.

Outside of this limited window many beaches are dead quiet; if that’s what

you prefer, visit just before or after.

Summer in the Cities

Of course not everyone gets away and city dwellers have come up with their

own strategies – new and old – for beating the heat. One that you’ll see in

big cities around Japan is beer gardens held on department store rooftops,

serving free-flowing lager and summer staples like fresh edamame.

Kyoto has a number of long-held summer traditions that make this a

fantastic time of year to visit the old imperial capital. Restaurants along the

city’s central Kamo-gawa set up kawayuka, terraces suspended on stilts over

the riverbank, for alfresco dining. Up in the foothills north of the city, in

Kibune, restaurants offer dining on kawadoko – temporary platforms set up

just inches above the Kibune-gawa. It’s best to book ahead for these

experiences.

Tokyo also has its own tradition: yakatabune. These are traditional

pleasure boats, strung with lanterns and open on the side – to let in a cool

breeze – that cruise up and down the Sumida-gawa and around Tokyo Bay.

Autumn (September–November)

Autumn Leaves

While they don’t get parties, autumn leaves do draw phenomenal crowds to

resort areas and temples and gardens that are known for their colourful

displays for momiji (leaf-viewing). Most prized of all are the maples, which

turn fiery red. The leaves start to change as early as late September in

Hokkaidō and most mountain areas (depending on elevation) and last

throughout October. The major coastal cities – Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka and

Kyoto – see their autumn colours in late November.

On the one hand, the scenery is spectacular; on the other, you might want

to purposely steer clear of the crowds. Nikkō and Chūzen-ji Onsen, for

example, get clogged with traffic. Kyoto is very popular this time of year;

Tokyo, not so much. Tokyo has its own autumn tree, the gingko, which turns

gold the first week of December.

This is a good time of year to visit Northern Honshū, where the leaves hit

their stride in late October and early November; there are crowds, yes, but

not like the more densely populated areas down south. It’s also chilly enough

to appreciate the region’s fantastic onsen and belly-warming hotpot dishes,

but not cold enough for snow to keep you off the roads. The temples and

shrines of rural Nara, fronting mountains, are also good off-the-beaten-track

fall spots. Walk the Yama-no-be-no-michi past persimmon orchards and

golden rice fields.

Cultural Attractions

During the summer, most museums hold crowd-pleasing special exhibitions.

It’s in the fall that they tend to hold ones that appeal more to serious

followers of the arts. There are performing arts festivals in Tokyo and Kyoto,

plus two film festivals in Tokyo at this time of year.

Of particular note in Kyoto in autumn is the Kyoto Heritage Preservation

Association’s Autumn Special Exhibit, when 20 or so historic structures

generally closed to the public – like Tō-ji’s five-storey pagoda – open their

doors. Many temples around Japan hold special openings once or twice a

year to display treasures that are too delicate to be shown year-round; while

this varies from place to place, autumn is the most common time of year for

this to occur. Temples in and around Nara have many special openings, too.

Enquire at TICs.

Autumn foliage in Kyoto | COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Winter (December–February)

Quiet Time

Winter is considered the off-season for travel in Japan (skiing aside). It’s

cold, yes, but Japanese winters are relatively clear, and in the mornings at

least, sunny. Sights are less crowded. Stripped of their vegetation, gardens,

temples and shrines can take on a forlorn appearance; however, this time of

year is conducive to the kind of private moments that can be hard to come by

in Japan’s more popular destinations like Kyoto. Snow does come for Kyoto

once or twice a year, in which case you should make a beeline for Kinkaku-ji

– the golden temple really pops against a white backdrop.

Winter Scenes

Blanketed in snow, the mountain monastery Kōya-san is a winter sleeper hit;

it’s bitterly cold, but some find the enchanting atmosphere worth it. Another

classic winter snowscape: the villages of Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama, with

their steep thatched roofs coated in a thick layer of white. Unless you’re a

very experienced winter driver, you’ll want to stay off the roads at higher

elevations, sticking to places accessible by public transport.

Winter is also the best time to spot Mt Fuji: go to Fuji Five Lakes or

Hakone – bonus: also a hot-spring resort – for views of the iconic volcano.

Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto | BLANSCAPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seafood & Sake

This is the peak season for Kansai’s signature hot-spring resort, Kinosaki

Onsen – not only for its baths but also for the snow crabs that are pulled in

this time of year from the Sea of Japan and served in the town’s inns and

restaurants. Fair warning: this experience doesn’t come cheap. Actually

anywhere on the Sea of Japan coast is a draw in winter for foodies: in

addition to crab, the frigid waters produce fish rich in fat – considered the

tastiest of all is kan-buri (winter yellow tail); try it in Kanazawa.

Winter also means shiboritate – the fresh-pressed, first sake of the season,

served chilled and usually unpasteurised. At the beginning of the season,

breweries hang sugidama (balls of cedar fronds) from their eaves; as the

fronds turn from green to brown they chart the maturation of the sake.

Plan Your Trip

Activities

Mountainous, volcanic Japan offers a wide range of outdoor

activities: historic walking trails, epic hikes, powder skiing and

cycling. Of course, Japan’s signature activity is soaking in steaming

onsen (hot springs) – a great follow-up to any of the above. In sub-

tropical Okinawa, you can dive, snorkel and sunbathe.

Best Outdoor Destinations

Hokkaidō

World-class skiing in Niseko, Furano and beyond; hike for days in Daisetsuzan and Shiretoko

National Parks.

Northern Japan Alps

High mountain trails and soaring views in Kamikōchi; excellent skiing in Hakuba.

Kumano Kodō

Walks and treks for all levels along ancient pilgrim trails on the Kii Peninsula.

Okinawa

Dive alongside sea turtles, manta rays and even hammerhead sharks; also some idyllic beaches.

Shimanami Kaidō

Japan’s most famous cycling route crosses a chain of bridges over the Inland Sea from western

Honshū to Shikoku.

Minakami Onsen-kyo

Central Honshū’s hub for outdoor adventure sports, including canyoning, rafting and mountain

biking.

Shikoku

Hiking, canyoning and zip-lining in the mountainous interior and a cool surf scene in Shishikui

on the Anan Coast.

Skiing

Japan is not the skiing and snowboarding world’s best-kept secret any more.

Those in the know come from around the globe to take advantage of the

country’s impressive snowfall, stunning mountain vistas, reasonable costs,

friendly locals and great variety of après-ski options. Japan is a surprisingly

reasonable place to ski or snowboard, with lift tickets and accommodation

competitively priced.

The word for ‘ski’ in Japanese is the same as in English (though it’s

pronounced more like ‘sukee’). At major resorts you won’t encounter much

of a language barrier: many employ a number of English-speaking foreigners

and Japanese who have spent time overseas. All major signs and maps are

translated into English, and provided you have some experience of large

resorts back home, you’ll find the layout and organisation of Japanese

resorts to be pretty intuitive.

The season usually kicks off in December, though conditions are highly

variable. January and February are peak months across the country. Things

begin to warm up in March, heralding the close of the season in April. More

snow falls on the Sea of Japan side of the mountains, with more snow the

further north you go. Hokkaidō’s Niseko ski area receives a whopping 15m

of snow every year!

An excellent website for checking out the Japan ski scene is

www.snowjapan.com.

Where to Ski

Japan’s best-known ski resorts are found in the Japan Alps, Nagano and on

the northern island of Hokkaidō. The Japan Alps lay claim to the highest

mountains, while Hokkaidō boasts the deepest and most regular snowfall in

the country.

While the ski resorts of northern Honshū have seen tough times since the

Great East Japan Earthquake, they offer up some wonderful options. And

don’t forget the Niigata mountains, easily accessed by shinkansen (bullet

train) from Tokyo. In fact, many resorts can be reached by public transport,

eliminating the need for a rental car.

There are some 500 ski areas in Japan. Here is our pick of the best:

Niseko As far as most foreign skiers are concerned, Niseko is how you say ‘powder’ in Japanese. This

is understandable, as Niseko receives an average snowfall of 15m annually. Located on Hokkaidō,

Niseko is actually four interconnected ski areas: Niseko Annupuri, Niseko Village (also known as

Higashiyama), Grand Hirafu and Hanazono.

Furano More or less in the centre of Hokkaidō, Furano shot to world fame after hosting FIS World Ski

and Snowboarding Cup events. Relatively undiscovered in comparison to Niseko, Furano rewards

savvy powder fiends with polished runs through pristine birch forests.

Sapporo Teine It’s so close to Sapporo, Hokkaidō’s capital, that buses run from downtown hotels to

Sapporo Teine. You can swish down slopes used in the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics by day and

enjoy the raucous restaurants, bars and clubs of Susukino by night.

Hakuba The quintessential Japan Alps ski resort, Hakuba offers eye-popping views in addition to

excellent and varied skiing in six resorts. Hakuba hosted Winter Olympic events in 1998 and is led by

the legendary Happō-One Ski Resort (pronounced ‘hah-poh-oh-neh’).

Shiga Kōgen Nagano Prefecture’s Shiga Kōgen is one of the largest ski resorts in the world, with an

incredible 18 different ski areas and 16 hotel areas, all interconnected by trails, lifts and shuttle buses –

and accessible with one lift ticket. With such a variety of terrain on offer, there is something for

everyone here.

Nozawa Onsen This quaint little village is tucked high up in the mountains northeast of Nagano city. It

offers a good variety of runs, including some challenging mogul courses. Snowboarders will enjoy the

terrain park and half-pipe, and there’s even a cross-country skiing course that traverses the peaks.

Myōkō Kōgen Much less developed than the other resorts listed here, Myōkō Kōgen is directly north

of Nagano city and close to the Sea of Japan. Head here for an off-the-beaten-path ski holiday in the

powder-rich Myōkō mountain range.

Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen Talk about easy to get to! Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen has its own shinkansen

station on the Jōetsu line to Niigata and you can literally go skiing as a day trip from Tokyo (77

minutes one way by the fastest service.) Gala Yuzawa is the resort to head to here.

Naeba Home to Dragondola, reportedly the longest gondola in the world (5.5km), Naeba has two

massive ski areas, centred on the Prince Hotel Naeba, that cater to your every whim and fancy.

Zaō Onsen Ski Resort Arguably the top ski slopes in Northern Honshū, Zaō has a huge selection of

beginner and intermediate runs, broad winding courses and excellent après-ski onsen options.

Tazawako Ski Park Akita Prefecture’s largest winter sports destination, Tazawako Ski Park has slopes

that wind down Akita Komaga-take and overlook the shores of Tazawa-ko. Expect fewer foreigners

but a friendly welcome.

Daisen This is our wildcard. Offering the best skiing in western Japan, this stand-alone exposed

volcano (1729m) is only 10km from the Sea of Japan in Tottori Prefecture and catches heavy snowfall

in winter. Daisen White Resort is where it’s at.

Skiing, Niseko | ATTHLE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TOP SKIING TIPS

A The majority of Japanese skiers start skiing at 9am, have lunch exactly at noon, and get off the

hill by 3pm. If you work on a slightly different schedule, you may avoid a lot of the crowds.

A Midweek is good if you don’t like lift lines.

A Off-piste and out-of-bounds skiing is often high quality but also illegal at many ski areas,

resulting in the confiscation of your lift pass if you’re caught by the ski patrol. Check out local

policies.

A The information counter at the base of the mountain always has helpful and polite staff

available to answer questions.

Backcountry Options

Some excellent options for backcountry skiing exist in Japan, particularly in

Nagano and Hokkaidō, where there are large numbers of foreign skiers and

demand is higher. This is a relatively new sphere of adventure tourism

though, as most Japanese skiers stick to established trails.

Hakuba Foreigner-run operations such as Goodguides and Evergreen Outdoor cater to increasing

demand for backcountry trips into the deep snow.

Asahi-dake An extreme experience on a smoking volcano in Daisetsuzan National Park. Hokkaidō’s

highest mountain, Asahi-dake offers one ropeway (500 vertical metres), dry powder and scenic views,

but is not for beginners.

Kuro-dake At Sōunkyō Onsen on the northeastern side of Daisetsuzan National Park in Hokkaidō,

Kuro-dake has one ropeway and lift, and is becoming popular with those who like vertical and

challenging terrain.

Rishiri-tō Extreme skiing is possible on Rishiri-zan, a classic volcanic cone on its own remote island

off the coast of northern Hokkaidō. No lifts and plenty of walking. You’ll need a guide from Rishiri

Nature Guide Service. Book early.

Lift Tickets & Equipment Rental

A full-day lift ticket at most ski areas in Japan costs between ¥4000 and

¥6000, although Niseko is up to ¥7400. This is significantly less than a full

day at large resorts in North America or Europe.

Almost everything you’ll need is available in Japan. If you have large feet

(longer than 30cm), bring your own boots. If you generally wear a size XXL

or larger, bring your own clothing and gloves, too. Full equipment rental is

typically no more than ¥5000 per day (both ski and snowboard sets are

available). Gear is usually in good shape and up-to-date.

Accommodation & Food

You can find plenty of decent accommodation in the ¥6500 to ¥10,000 range

at major ski areas in Japan, and this price will often include one or two

meals. This is well under what you’d expect to pay for similar

accommodation in North America or Europe. In big resort areas you can find

Western-style hotels (from midrange to as good as it gets) near the lifts.

For budget travellers, many resorts also have a variety of backpacker-type

hostels, and families will be glad to know that young children (under six

years of age) can usually stay for free or at a significant discount. Especially

in Niseko and Hakuba, many accommodations are run by foreigners who’ve

decided to stick around and well know the needs of overseas guests.

Kamoshika Views in Hakuba is a great example.

On-slope meals mostly top out at around ¥1000. Restaurants serve local

dishes like ramen, udon (wheat noodles), karē-raisu (curry rice) and gyūdon

(sliced beef on rice), as well as sandwiches, pizza and burgers. In larger

resorts with an après-ski scene there are plenty of restaurants around the

accommodations; at smaller places, it’s a safer bet to book meals at your

accommodation.

Hiking

Blessed with a geography that is more than two-thirds mountain terrain,

Japan offers outdoors enthusiasts the most diverse climate in all of Asia.

From the rugged shores and wind-weathered peaks of Hokkaidō in the north

to the tropical island jungles of Okinawa in the south, this country has it all.

Mt Fuji is 3776m tall and 20 other peaks top 3000m. For more on hikes

throughout Japan, check out www.hikinginjapan.com.

Where to Hike

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

Mt Fuji Japan’s highest and best-known mountain, at 3776m. A gruelling climb that more than

300,000 people make each summer, many hiking overnight to be at the peak at sunrise.

Takao-san A popular day hike less than an hour west of Shinjuku. Can be walked year-round, has a

high point of 599m and is good for families.

Oku-Tama Region One of Tokyo’s top hiking getaway spots, with mountains, waterfalls, woodlands

and walking trails. Head to Mitake-san for the day.

Kamakura The 3km Daibutsu hiking course winds its way past ancient temples and shrines in Japan’s

medieval capital to the giant Buddha statue at Hase.

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Home to the North, Central and South Alps, central Honshū is a hiking hot

spot for Japan.

North Alps Excellent high-mountain trails. From Kamikōchi, climb Yariga-take (3180m) and Oku-

hotaka-dake (3190m). From Murodō on the Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route, climb Tateyama

(3015m) and Tsurugi-dake (2999m). From Hakuba, take the gondola and chairlifts to climb

Karamatsu-dake (2695m).

Hakusan A sacred peak in Hakusan National Park, the ‘white mountain’ is criss-crossed with great

hiking trails.

Nakasendō Walk the 8km hike from Magome to Tsumago in the historic and attractive Kiso Valley.

Kyoto

Daimonji-yama There is no finer walk in the city than the 30-minute climb to the viewpoint above Ginkaku-ji in Northern Higashiyama.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha A 4km pathway up Inari-yama in southeast Kyoto is lined with thousands of red

torii (shrine gates) and hundreds of stone foxes.

Kurama & Kibune Only 30 minutes north of Kyoto, two tranquil valleys are linked by a trail over the

ridge between them. A peaceful escape from the city.

Kansai

Kumano Kodō Walk on ancient pilgrimage routes in the wilds of the Kii Peninsula. Or go the whole

way and walk the 500km 33 Sacred Temples of the Kannon Pilgrimage.

Yama-no-be-no-michi Ramble through the Nara countryside among farming villages, 1300-year-old

emperors’ tombs and a rich mix of rural sights.

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Daisen A five-hour return climb of this 1729m stand-alone volcano affords excellent views of the San-

in region.

Sandan Gorge An 11km ravine about 50km northwest of Hiroshima, Sandan-kyō gives access to

waterfalls, forests and fresh air.

Miyajima There’s good walking to be had on this well-known island not far from Hiroshima. Climb

the high point of Misen (530m).

Kuniga Coast The coastal romp from Matengai cliff to Kuniga beach offers jaw-dropping scenery on

the sleepy island of Nishino-shima, in the Oki Islands Geopark.

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Dewa Sanzan The collective name for three sacred peaks – Haguro-san, Gas-san and Yudono-san –

which represent birth, death and rebirth respectively. The climb up Gas-san (1984m) is a good

challenge.

Bandai-san There are great tracks to climb this 1819m peak in Fukushima Prefecture.

Hakkōda-san Wildflower-filled marshes, a ridge trail and peaks in Aomori Prefecture.

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

There’s so much hiking here that you could spend weeks in the northern

wilds.

Daisetsuzan National Park Pick your walks in this massive park in the centre of Hokkaidō, with day

trips to a weeklong challenge the length of the park.

Shiretoko National Park This World Heritage Site offers day walks of up to three days, plenty of hot springs and higuma (brown bears).

Akan National Park Brilliant day-trip options including Me-Akan-dake (1499m) and O-Akan-dake

(1371m).

Rishiri-zan A standalone volcano (1721m) on its own island off the northern coast of Hokkaidō.

Shikoku

Ishizuchi-san At 1982m, the highest peak in western Japan. Great day and overnight hikes in Ehime

Prefecture.

Tsurugi-san At 1955m, Shikoku’s second-highest peak provides both easy walks and multiday hiking

opportunities.

88 Temple Pilgrimage 2015 was the 1200th birthday of Kōbō Daishi’s legendary 1400km 88-temple

pilgrimage around Shikoku.

Kyūshū

Kirishima-Kinkō-wan National Park Excellent options including climbing Karakuni-dake (1700m),

Kirishima’s highest peak.

Kaimon-dake This beautifully symmetrical 924m cone on the Satsuma Peninsula is a brilliant day

walk.

Kujū-san Knock off Kyūshū’s highest peak at 1791m, known for its spectacular pink azaleas in spring.

Aso-san Hiking at the world’s largest volcanic caldera, 128km in circumference, is on hold following

a devastating earthquake in 2016.

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Yakushima Lots of hiking options on this World Heritage–listed island. Climb Miyanoura-dake

(1935m) or hike on myriad tracks that criss-cross the island.

Iriomote-jima A Japanese jungle hike on one of Okinawa Prefecture’s westernmost islands.

BEST…

A Iconic hike: Mt Fuji

A Remote volcano: Rishiri-zan, Hokkaidō

A Island hike: Miyanoura-dake, Yakushima

A Base for hiking: Kamikōchi, North Alps

A Pilgrimage: 88 Temple walk, Shikoku

A Scenery: Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route, North Alps

Top Five Destinations for Experienced Hikers

If you’re an experienced hiker and wandering around the mountains is one of

your reasons for heading to Japan, look into the following hikes:

Kamikōchi This is the holy grail for Japanese hikers. This mountain-ringed village at the base of the

North Alps offers plenty of options, none greater than a three-day circuit taking in Yariga-take

(3180m) and Oku-Hotaka-dake (3190m) before returning to Kamikōchi.

Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route Take the opportunity to climb sacred Tateyama (3015m) and

exhilarating Tsurugi-dake (2998m) in a two-day hike from Murodō (2450m) in the north of the North

Alps. Or better yet, take six to seven days to hike south to Kamikōchi.

Yakushima There are wonderful options on this World Heritage–listed island off the tip of Kagoshima

in Kyūshū. Climb Miyanoura-dake (1935m) in a day or consider a three-day traverse of the island.

Daisetsuzan National Park Lots of options here in spectacular Hokkaidō ranging from day trips using

ropeways at Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen to the five- to seven-day 55km Daisetsuzan Grand

Traverse.

Shikoku Put on your boots for a 40- to 60-day hike around the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku

Pilgrimage. Or with only a day free, climb western Japan’s highest peak, Ishizuchi-san (1982m).

We emphasise that these hikes are for experienced and adventurous types

only. Do your homework before you go, be well prepared, have the

appropriate equipment, watch the weather forecasts, and never take the

mountains lightly.

Hiking, Kamikōchi | SUCHART BOONYAVECH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mountain Huts & Camping

Japan’s popular hiking routes typically have mountain huts that offer hot

meals and a place to sleep, so weeklong hikes can be done with minimal

gear. Rooms are shared and in most cases you’ll be staking out a spot on the

floor. Futons are provided, but you might want to bring your own sheet and

pillow case.

The average price for a stay, including dinner and breakfast, is ¥8000 – in

cash. Along popular trails during holiday times they fill up fast; try to

reserve if you can (especially for Mt Fuji).

Mountain huts have their own culture: don’t expect the same fawning

service you get in a ryokan! Most people arrive around 3pm or 4pm and

dinner is usually served at 5pm with lights out at 8pm. Your co-sleepers will

begin to rise with the sun and starting heading out around 5am.

Many hiking areas also have campgrounds, but you’ll have to haul

everything you need. It’s okay to use a camp stove but no open fires. The

cost is usually ¥500 to ¥1000 per person or tent.

Hiking Seasons

Lower latitude and lower altitude hikes can be walked year-round. With

heavy winter snowfalls, higher peaks such as the North, Central and South

Alps and those in Hokkaidō have a July–to–October season; at the highest

elevations in Hokkaidō snow can fall in early October. The official season

for climbing Japan’s tallest peak, Mt Fuji, is 1 July to mid-September.

Mountains in western Japan (Kansai, Western Honshū, Shikoku, Kyūshū),

which have lower elevations than the Alps, have longer seasons, generally

from April to November (if they get any snow at all).

A few other things to keep in mind: tsuyu (rainy season) strikes between

early June and mid-July. The levels of rain aren’t monsoonal and it won’t

necessarily rain everyday, but odds are high. Tsuyu has less effect the further

north you go, and has little impact on Hokkaidō. The 10 days after the rainy

season finishes, known as tsuyu-ake-tōka (the last 10 days or so of July) are

considered the best for hiking – expect crowds!

More problematic are typhoons, which can roll through anytime between

June and October. Check for typhoon warnings before heading out; do not

hike during a typhoon.

Visiting an Onsen

Highly volcanic Japan has thousands of onsen (hot springs) scattered across

the archipelago, which feed baths across the spectrum from humble to

luxurious. The blissful relaxation that follows a good long soak can turn a

sceptic into a convert and is likely to make you an onsen fanatic.

Onsen Styles

There are several different ways to experience an onsen. Many ryokan

(traditional Japanese inns) are built on top of hot springs and have baths fed

with onsen water. This is a great introductory experience: you can bath at

your leisure, travelling between your room and the baths in a yukata (light

cotton kimono, provided by inns to wear in-house). At some fancier ryokan

you will have the option to upgrade to a room with its own private onsen

bath.

Particularly abundant springs support whole resort towns, which will be

made up of numerous ryokan, and sometimes Western-style hotels too, with

baths. These may also have public bathhouses with onsen water, for which

admission usually runs from ¥500 to ¥1000 – great for budget travellers.

Many inns, especially ones with famous baths, offer higaeri-onsen (日帰

り温泉; bathing without accommodation), usually during the late morning

and early afternoon; admission typically runs from ¥500 to ¥1500 and you’ll

need your own towel (or pay to rent one). It’s a common sight at particular

resort towns to see guests walking around town in yukata to the public baths

or the baths of other inns – an act called yu meguri (making a round of the

baths).

Some resort towns, and even some cities, will have day spas, with

multiple baths and saunas. Admission to these runs from ¥1500 to ¥3000,

with the option of additional treatments like massages or body scrubs. A few

of these, like Tokyo’s Ōedo Onsen Monogatari, Hakone’s Yunessun and

Osaka’s Spa World, are more like onsen theme parks, with novelty baths and

areas where mixed groups can hang out; they’re popular with local families

and couples.

There are also onsen in the wild. Hidden in the mountains or along

undeveloped coasts, these humble baths may be no more than a pool in a

riverbed blocked off with stones or a tidal basin beside crashing waves.

Bathing is open-air, often co-ed and usually free. Hokkaidō, in particular, has

some good ones, as do some of Japan’s more far-flung islands. In many of

these, it’s okay to wear a swimsuit.

Ashi-yu (足湯; foot bath) Many onsen towns have free foot baths, often near the train station; roll up

your trousers, take a seat on the bench and enjoy the body-warming effects. For such occasions, it’s

handy to have a small towel on hand.

Kashikiri-buro (貸切風呂; private bath) Some inns and day spas offer small, private baths that can

be rented for a limited time (usually 40 to 60 minutes) for an additional fee; the fee varies depending

on the luxe factor, but can be as low as ¥2000 and at some inns may be free. These baths, also

sometimes called kazoku-buro (家族風呂; family bath), can be used alone or by up to two to four

people.

Konyoku (混浴; co-ed bathing) A few rural inns and bathhouses, especially those in Tōhoku

(Northern Honshū), are set up for co-ed bathing. In konyoku, women may be allowed to enter the baths

wrapped in a larger towel – ask, or have a peek inside (or outside!) to see if this is the norm – but

generally bathers of both sexes are respectful.

Rotemburo (露天風呂; outdoor bath) These offer the most delightful bathing experiences: the

opportunity to soak while surrounded by mountain, river or ocean vistas. Rotemburo can be found at

all styles of onsen.

TATTOO WARNING

Some onsen and most day spas refuse entry to people with tattoos because of the association of

tattoos with the yakuza (Japanese mafia). Those with strict policies will have signs posted that

make their stance clear.

Bathing Etiquette

First of all, relax…really. All you need to know to avoid causing alarm is to

wash yourself before getting into the bath. But yes, you do need to get

naked. With few exceptions, baths and changing rooms are gender-

segregated. It’s a good idea to memorise the characters for men (男) and

women (女), which will be marked on the noren (curtains) hanging in front

of the respective baths. (Some ryokan will swap the curtains in the mornings,

so that guests can experience different baths, so do double-check the

curtains).

If you’re entering a day spa or public bathhouse, the first thing you’ll

encounter is a row of lockers for your shoes. Park your shoes, pay your

admission and head to the correct changing room. At some larger day spas

you’ll be given a wristband, which can be used to open and close your locker

in the changing room and also to charge any food, drinks or additional

services to your tab, which you’ll settle upon checking out. Some places may

also keep your shoe locker key at the front desk as a deposit.

Next, head to the correct changing room. Take everything off here, storing

your clothes, larger bath towel and belongings in the lockers or baskets

provided. If there are no lockers, you can ask to leave valuables at the front

desk.

Enter the bathing room with only a small towel; inns and days spas will

provide these, otherwise you can purchase one at the front desk (around

¥100). While the towel – larger than a face cloth but smaller than a hand

towel – seems too small to be useful, it is an important part of onsen

etiquette. You can use it to wash (but make sure to give it a good rinse

afterwards) or to cover yourself as you walk around. (It is not supposed to

touch the water though, so leave it on the side of the bath or – as the locals

do – folded on top of your head). Most importantly, when you leave the bath,

you’ll use it to wipe yourself down before returning to the changing room, so

as not to drip water on the floor.

Inside the bathing room, place a stool in front of one of the taps, sit down

and give yourself a thorough wash. Make sure you rinse off all the suds.

When you’re done, it’s polite to rinse off the stool for the next person. In the

baths, keep splashing to a minimum and your head above the water (and

your heart above water if you feel light-headed).

Cycling the Shimanami Kaidō | RACHIN MAPANYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Onsen Destinations

Hakone Tokyo’s favourite onsen escape, made up of seven small resorts nestled in the mountains

about two hours from Tokyo. There are many gorgeous ryokan and day spas here.

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū There are several atmospheric onsen towns in the mountains here,

with some lovely vistas from the outdoor baths. Some favourites include Shirahone Onsen, Shin-

Hotaka Onsen and Takaragawa Onsen.

Kinosaki Onsen A quintessential onsen town, and Kansai’s signature resort, with both public baths and

onsen ryokan along a willow-lined river. Here guests ramble from bath to bath in yukata.

Northern Honshū The deep north is famous for its rustic wooden bathhouses and milky, mineral-rich

waters. Remote Nyūtō Onsen is somewhere many Japanese would like to visit once in their lives.

Dōgo Onsen Storied Shikoku onsen – literally: it famously appears in Natsume Sōseki’s classic novel

Botchan – founded during ‘the age of the gods’ and currently housed in a castle-style building from

1894.

Kyūshū Several of Japan’s most popular onsen resorts are here, including the rather commercial but

fun Beppu, more highbrow Yufuin and secluded Kurokawa Onsen. In Ibusuki, try immersing yourself in hot sand.

Kinosaki Onsen | REI IMAGINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Public Bathhouses

As little as 50 years ago, many private homes in Japan did not have baths, so

in the evenings people headed off to the local neighbourhood sentō (銭湯;

public bath). More than just a place to wash oneself, the sentō served as a

kind of community meeting hall, where news and gossip were traded and

social ties strengthened. Most sentō-goers are neighbourhood regulars. This

can be a little intimidating for first-timers, but don’t let that put you off; just

give your fellow bathers a brief nod and go about your business (correctly, of

course!).

Bathhouses can be identified by their distinctive noren (half-length

curtains over the doorway), which usually bear the hiragana (ゆ; yu) for hot

water (occasionally, it may be written in kanji: 湯). If located where hot

springs are present, the baths may use onsen water; most often it’s ordinary

tap water. You’re expected to bring your own towel and toiletries; however,

you can show up empty handed and rent a towel and purchase soap,

shampoo etc for a small price.

Diving

Stunning both above and below the water’s surface, the Southwest Islands

set the scene for some excellent diving with an impressive variety of species,

such as whale sharks, manta rays, sea snakes, turtles and corals. Keeping it

even more interesting are underwater wrecks, cavern systems and even some

mysterious ruins (…or very unusual rock formations).

Some operators run year-round, though winter water temperatures bottom

out at 20°C (summer waters can get as warm 30°C). The water around the

southernmost islands, the Yaeyama Islands, tends to be one or two degrees

warmer than around the Okinawa main island. Advance bookings are

recommended in July and August, as this is peak season. In general spring is

best for marine life; go between April and October for the manta rays off

Ishigaki-jima and in February for a chance to swim with hammerheads off

Yonaguni-jima.

Costs for diving in the Southwest Islands are higher than you might pay in

Southeast Asia, but equipment and guiding standards are fairly high. If you

don’t have a valid diving certification, many operators offer introductory

diving courses. To rent equipment, you should know your weight in

kilograms, your height in metres and your shoe size in centimetres.

Traveller-friendly operators with English-speaking staff include the

following:

A Ishigaki-jima: Diving School Umicoza

A Okinawa-hontō: Piranha Divers

A Miyako-jima: Penguin Divers

A Yonaguni-jima: Yonaguni Diving Service

It’s possible to dive in other spots around Japan, too. The kuroshio current

brings warm waters (and colourful fish) up the Pacific coast of western

Japan. Shikoku is an under-the-radar diving spot, where the marine

landscape is different (more rocky than coral) from that of the Southwest

Islands; it’s a particularly good destination for fans of the nudibranch. The

season here is May through October; water temps peak in September at 28°C

but can be a chilly 20°C in May. Try English-speaking Kaanapali Diving

Center.

BEST ONSEN IN THE WILD

A Fukiage Roten-no-yu, Hokkaidō

A Yudomari Onsen, Yakushima (Okinawa & the Southwest Islands)

A Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen, Hokkaidō

A Jinata Onsen, Shikine-jima (Tokyo)

A Shin-Hotaka-no-yu, Hida (Central Honshū)

Cycling

Japan has a small but devoted cycling community. Bear in mind that roads

can be narrow and lack shoulders, and that the terrain can be rather hilly

with frequent tunnels. KANcycling (www.kancycling.com) is a good

planning resource. The Touring Mapple (Shōbunsha) guide series, aimed at

motorcyclists but also very useful for cyclists, has detailed maps (in

Japanese) and is available at major bookstores. Cyclists can also stay at rider

houses, bare-bones guesthouses reserved for travellers on two wheels.

Outside of joining an organised tour, it is hard to rent touring bikes in

Japan; Cycle Osaka is one operation that does. Another exception is the

Shimanami Kaidō, Japan’s best developed cycling route. It travels from

Onomichi (in Western Honshū) to Imabari (on Shikoku) crossing several

bridges and islands in the Inland Sea. Bicycles (¥1000 per day, with a

limited number of helmets available for free) can be rented at either end, and

there are also ports along the way where you can return the bikes if you

don’t want to do the whole route. The 70km journey can be done in a day, or

broken up into a longer trip, with more time to explore the small, rural

islands.

There are also several tour operators (with rental bikes and helmets

included) that can take you off the beaten track (literally) or on urban

adventures:

A Takayama: Satoyama Experience

A Izu: Yamabushi Trail Tour

A Tokyo: Tokyo Great Cycling Tour

A Osaka: Cycle Osaka

A Minakami: MTB Japan

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink Like a Local

As visitors to Japan quickly discover, the people here are absolutely

obsessed with food. You’ll find that every island and region of

Japan has its own meibutsu (local speciality) that is a point of pride.

The Year in Food

At finer restaurants, not only does the menu change with the seasons but so does the crockery

and the garnishes (which are often seasonal flowers, sprigs or leaves).

Spring (March–May)

The new growth of spring finds its way onto tables in the form of takenoko (bamboo shoots)

and sansei (mountain vegetables). Especially good if you’re in the mountains.

Summer (June–August)

The season for cooling dishes like reimen (cold ramen) and zaru- soba (cold buckwheat noodles

served on a bamboo tray). And nothing says summer like kakigōri (shaved ice topped with

sweet syrup).

Autumn (September–November)

The first sign of autumn is silvery sanma (Pacific saury) on menus. Other delicacies: matsutake

mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, candied chestnuts and shinmai, the first rice of the harvest season.

Winter (December–February)

Friends come together for steaming nabe (hotpot) dishes; this is also the season for fugu

(pufferfish) and oysters.

Dining Out in Japan

When you enter a restaurant in Japan the staff will likely all greet you with a

hearty ‘Irasshai!’ (Welcome!) In all but the most casual places, where you

seat yourself, the waitstaff will next ask you ‘Nan-mei sama?’ (How many

people?). Indicate the answer with your fingers, which is what the Japanese

do. You may also be asked if you would like to sit at a zashiki (low table on

the tatami), at a tēburu (table) or the kauntā (counter). Once seated you will

be given an o-shibori (hot towel), a cup of tea or water (this is free) and a

menu.

There are two ways to order: omakase (chef’s choice) and okonomi (your

choice). It’s common for high-end restaurants to offer nothing but omakase –

the equivalent of a chef’s tasting course – usually two or three options of

different value. (Pricier doesn’t necessarily mean more food; it often means

more luxurious ingredients.) Most other restaurants will hand you a menu

and expect you to choose what you like. If there’s no English menu (and

you’re game) you can ask for the server’s recommendation ‘O-susume wa

nan desu ka?’ and give the okay to whatever he or she suggests.

When your food arrives, it’s the custom to say ‘ Itadakimasu’ (literally ‘I

will receive’ but closer to ‘bon appétit’ in meaning) before digging in. All

but the most extreme type-A chefs will say they’d rather have foreign

visitors enjoy their meal than agonise over getting the etiquette right. Still,

there’s nothing that makes a Japanese chef grimace more than out-of-

towners who over-season their food – a little soy sauce and wasabi go a long

way.

Often a bill is placed discreetly on your table after your food has been

delivered. If not, catch your server’s eye with a ‘sumimasen’ (excuse me)

and ask for the check by saying, ‘o-kaikei kudasai’. Payment, even at high-

end places, is often settled at a counter near the entrance, rather than at the

table. On your way out, it’s polite to say ‘ gochisō-sama deshita’ (literally ‘it

was a feast’; a respectful way of saying you enjoyed the meal) to the staff.

WORDS TO KNOW

If you’re generally an adventurous (or curious) eater, don’t let the absence of an English menu

put you off. Instead, tell the staff (or ideally the chef), ‘omakase de onegaishimasu’ (I’ll leave it

up to you).

This works especially well when you’re sitting at the counter of a smaller restaurant or

izakaya (Japanese pub eatery), where a rapport naturally develops between the diners and the

cooks. It’s best said with enthusiasm and a disarming smile, to reassure everyone that you really

are game.

This isn’t just a tourist hack: Japanese diners do this all the time. Menus might not reflect

seasonal dishes and odds are the chef is working on something new that he or she is keen to test

out on the willing.

It’s probably a good idea to set a price cap, like: hitori de san-zen-en (one person for ¥3000).

Eating Etiquette

A This is really the only big deal: do not stick your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice or pass food

from one pair of chopsticks to another – both are reminiscent of Japanese funeral rites.

A When serving yourself from a shared dish, it’s polite to use the back end of your chopsticks (ie not

the end that goes into your mouth) to place the food on your own small dish.

A Lunch is one of Japan’s great bargains; however, restaurants can only offer cheap lunch deals

because they anticipate high turnover. Spending too long sipping coffee after finishing your meal

might earn you dagger eyes from the kitchen.

A It’s perfectly OK, even expected, to slurp your noodles. They should be eaten at whip speed, before

they go soggy (letting them do so would be an affront to the chef); that’s why you’ll hear diners

slurping, sucking in air to cool their mouths.

When to Eat

Breakfast The traditional Japanese breakfast consists of rice, miso soup and a few side dishes such as

a small piece of cooked fish and nattō (partially fermented beans); this is what is served at a ryokan

(traditional inn) or minshuku (traditional guesthouse). In cities you can source baked goods and coffee

at cafes, but in rural areas eating in your inn may be your only option (or a convenience store run).

Inns serve breakfast between 7am and 8.30am.

Lunch The midday meal is typically eaten between 11.30am and 1pm and in fact many restaurants

stop serving by 2pm or 2.30pm. In cities with more options you can find food in the later afternoon,

but in some rural areas you might get stuck waiting for dinner. The Japanese tend not to linger over

lunch.

Dinner Unless they’re urbanites doing overtime, most Japanese eat dinner fairly early, around 6pm;

inns will serve meals at 6pm or 7pm. Given the option, most Japanese travellers choose to eat at their

inns, which can mean that even resort areas have few to no dinner options. In cities, on the other hand,

options are plentiful, with izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries) typically serving until at least 10pm.

Where to Eat

Shokudō

Shokudō (食堂) are casual, inexpensive eateries that serve homely meals –

similar to what might be called a greasy-spoon cafe or diner in the United

States. These offer quick and easy meals and usually enough variety to

please everyone (including children). Like a lot of home-cooking in Japan,

the food served at shokudō is often a mix of washoku (Japanese food),

yōshoku (Western food) and chuka-ryōri (Chinese food) – the latter two

usually with a liberal local interpretation.

Meals are typically served as a set, called a teishoku (定食), which

includes one main dish along with rice, miso soup and pickles, and

sometimes a few other small sides. Shokudō are everywhere, and especially

near train stations and tourist sights. They often have plastic food models

displayed in their window; in a pinch, if there’s no English menu, beckon the

waitstaff outside and point to what you want. Meals typically cost ¥800 to

¥1500 per person.

Classic shokudō dishes:

ebi-katsu (海老カツ) breaded and fried prawns

katsu-don (かつ丼) rice topped with a fried pork cutlet

katsu-karē (カツカレー) rice topped with a fried pork cutlet and curry

omu-raisu (オムライス) omelette and fried rice, with ketchup

oyako-don (親子丼) rice topped with egg and chicken

shōga-yaki (生姜焼き) stir-fried pork and ginger

ten-don (天丼) rice topped with tempura prawns and vegetables

yaki-zakana (焼き魚) grilled fish

Some may also serve tempura or noodle dishes, and sometimes pasta,

steak or hamburger patties.

Eatery in Omoide-yokochō, Shinjuku | MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANETLP MAGAZINE ©

Izakaya

Izakaya (居酒屋) translates as ‘drinking house’ – the Japanese equivalent of

a pub – and you’ll find them all over Japan. Visiting one is a great way to dig

into Japanese culture. An evening at an izakaya is dinner and drinks all in

one: food is ordered for the table a few dishes at a time along with rounds of

beer, sake or shōchū (a strong distilled alcohol often made from potatoes).

While the vibe is lively and social, it’s perfectly acceptable to go by yourself

and sit at the counter. If you don’t want alcohol, it’s fine to order a soft drink

instead (but it would be strange to not order at least one drink).

There are orthodox, family-run izakaya, often with rustic interiors, that

serve sashimi and grilled fish to go with sake; large, cheap chains, popular

with students, that often have a healthy (er, unhealthy) dose of Western pub-

style dishes (like chips); and there are also stylish chef-driven ones with

creative menus. A night out at an average izakaya should run ¥2500 to

¥5000 per person, depending on how much you drink.

Chains often have deals where you can pay a set price for a certain

amount of dishes and/or unlimited drinks. Look for the words pātī puran

(パーティープラン; party plan) or nomi-hōdai (飲み放題; all-you-can-

drink).

Note that izakaya often levy a small cover charge, called otoshi (お通し),

of a few hundred yen per person. In exchange, you’ll be served a small dish

of food to snack on until the kitchen can prepare your order. But no, you

can’t pass it up even if you don’t want to eat it.

Common izakaya dishes:

agedashi-tōfu (揚げだし豆腐) deep-fried tofu in a dashi (fish) broth

edamame (枝豆) salted and boiled fresh soy beans

hiyayakko (冷奴) a cold block of tofu with soy sauce and spring onions

karaage (唐揚げ) fried chicken

moro-kyū (もろきゅう) sliced cucumbers and chunky barley miso

poteto sarada (ポテトサラダ) potato salad

sashimi moriawase (刺身盛り合わせ) selection of sliced sashimi

tempura moriawase (天ぷら盛り合わせ) selection of tempura

yaki-zakana (焼魚) whole grilled fish

Edamame (soybeans) | UV70/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kissaten

Kissaten (喫茶店) – or ‘kissa’ for short – is the old word for coffee shop, the

one used before chains like Starbucks arrived in Japan and changed the

game. Today the word is used to describe independently run coffee shops

that either date from the early or mid-20th century – when Japan’s coffee

first wave hit – or at least look like they do. In addition to pour-over or

siphon-brewed coffee (you’ll get no espresso drinks here), most kissa serve a

‘morning set’ (モーニング セット; mōningu setto), until around 11am, that

includes thick, buttery toast and a hard-boiled egg for little more than the

original price of a cup of coffee.

Street Food

Street-food stands, called yatai (屋台), don’t have the same ubiquitous

presence in Tokyo as they do in other Asian cities. However, you can find

them in markets and at festivals. Popular street-food dishes include

okonomiyaki, tako-yaki and yaki-soba (stir-fried buckwheat noodles).

Easy Options

Chain Restaurants Found all over and good in a pinch; these stay open all afternoon and often until

late and usually have English menus.

Department stores The upper levels have restaurants, often branches of famous ones; reliably good

food and reasonably priced, usually with English menus. Takeaway and deli dishes can be purchased

in the food halls in the basement.

Convenience stores Ubiquitous 24-hour suppliers of sandwiches, bentō (boxed meals, which you can

ask to have microwaved) and onigiri (rice-ball snacks).

Food Experiences

Top Experiences

Breakfast at the Fish Market Go for sushi or kaisen-don (raw fish served on a bowl or rice) at one of

Japan’s famous fish markets, like Tokyo’s Toyosu Market or Hokkaidō’s Hakodate Morning Market.

Kaiseki Japan’s traditional haute cuisine is a full sensory culinary experience, a procession of seasonal

dishes artfully arranged. Kyoto is tops for this and Kikunoi or Kitcho Arashiyama are among the top

of the top.

Ramen Japan’s top ramen pilgrimage sites are Fukuoka, where the speciality is tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen, and Sapporo, where the speciality is miso ramen.

Shōjin-ryōri This is Japanese Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, which specifies no meat, fish, onions or

garlic be used; instead you’ll be served tofu prepared in more ways than you may have imagined

possible. Try it in Kōya-san, at one of the mountain monastery’s many shukubō (temple lodgings).

JAPANESE MENU DECODER

Kaiseki (haute cuisine) restaurants often serve different levels of courses with poetic names:

ume (梅) regular course

take (竹) special course

matsu (松) extra-special course

Sushi restaurants also sell sets of different grades:

nami (並) regular

jō (上) special

toku-jō (特上) extra-special

In most cases the difference is determined more by the value of the ingredients than by volume.

Many restaurants of all styles offer both prix fixe menu options ( cōsu menyu; コースメ

ニュー), which usually includes a starter, main, dessert and tea or coffee, and à la carte choices

( ippin ryōri; 一品料理).

Kaiseki

Kaiseki (懐石) is Japanese cuisine at its finest, where ingredients,

preparation, setting and presentation come together to create a highly

ritualised, aesthetically sophisticated dining experience. Key to kaiseki is

peak seasonal freshness; as the ingredients should be at the height of their

flavour, only subtle seasoning is used to enhance them. The table settings

and garnishes too are chosen to complement the ingredients and evoke

seasonality.

The meal is served in several small courses, which usually include sashimi

(raw fish), something steamed, something grilled, soup and finishes with rice

and then a simple dessert (though there may be many, many more courses).

Though fish is often served, meat never appears in traditional kaiseki.

For the most authentic kaiseki experience dine at a ryōtei (an especially

elegant style of traditional restaurant). This is about as pricey as dining can

get in Japan, ¥20,000 or more per person, with advance reservations

required. There are less formal and less expensive places though, and lunch

can be a good deal as some restaurants do boxed lunches ( bentō; 弁当)

containing a small sampling of their dinner fare for as little ¥2500. Many

high-end ryokan serve a less orthodox version of kaiseki (meat is usually

served), using local ingredients.

Sushi

Sushi (寿司 or 鮨) is raw fish and rice seasoned with vinegar. The most

common style of sushi is called nigiri-zushi, which means hand-formed

sushi, as it’s made by deft-handed chefs who quickly press slivers of raw fish

onto bite-sized mounds of rice. In truth, the fish isn’t always raw; sometimes

it’s lightly seared or grilled.

Common nigiri-zushi toppings (called neta):

ama-ebi (甘海老) sweet shrimp

anago (穴子) conger eel

chū-toro (中とろ) medium-grade fatty tuna

ebi (海老) prawn or shrimp

hamachi (はまち) yellowtail

ika (いか) squid

ikura (イクラ) salmon roe

kai-bashira (貝柱) scallop

kani (かに) crab

katsuo (かつお) bonito

maguro (まぐろ) tuna

tai (鯛) sea bream

tamago-yaki (玉子焼き) slightly sweetened rolled omelette

toro (とろ) the choice cut of fatty tuna belly

uni (うに) sea-urchin roe

Unless otherwise instructed by the chef (who may have pre-seasoned

some pieces), you can dip each piece lightly in shōyu (soy sauce), which you

pour from a small decanter into a low dish specially provided for the

purpose. Nigiri-sushi is usually made with wasabi, so if you’d prefer it

without, order wasabi-nuki (わさび抜き). Sushi is one of the few foods in

Japan that is perfectly acceptable to eat with your hands (even at high-end

places.) Slices of gari (pickled ginger) are served to refresh the palate.

At an average sushi-ya (sushi restaurant) a meal should run between

¥2000 and ¥5000 per person. You can order à la carte – often by just

pointing to the fish in the refrigerated glass case on the counter. But the most

economical way to eat sushi is to order a set, usually of around 10 to 12

pieces, which may be served all at once or piece by piece. Another style of

sushi you’re likely to see is chirashi-zushi (ちらし寿司; bite-sized pieces of

seafood scattered on a bowl of vinegar-seasoned rice), a whole meal unto

itself.

Of course, you can spend much more at a high-end sushi-ya, where an

omakase (chef’s choice) course of seasonal delicacies could run over

¥20,000 per person. Sushi can also be had very cheaply, at kaiten-zushi (回

転寿司), where ready-made plates of nigiri-zushi (about ¥200 each) are sent

around the restaurant on a conveyor belt. Here there’s no need to order: just

grab whatever looks good.

Ramen

Ramen (ラーメン) originated in China, but its popularity in Japan is epic. If

a town has only one restaurant, odds are it’s a ramen shop.

Your basic ramen is a big bowl of crinkly egg noodles in broth, served

with toppings such as chāshū (チャーシュー; sliced roast pork), moyashi

(bean sprouts) and menma (fermented bamboo shoots). The broth can be

made from pork or chicken bones or dried seafood; usually it’s a top-secret

combination of some or all of the above, falling somewhere on the spectrum

between kotteri (thick and fatty – a signature of pork bone ramen) or assari

(thin and light).

It’s typically seasoned with shio (塩; salt), shōyu (醤油; soy sauce) or

hearty miso (みそ) – though at less orthodox places, anything goes. Most

shops will specialise in one or two broths and offer a variety of seasonings

and toppings. Another popular style is tsukemen, noodles that come with a

dipping sauce (like a really condensed broth) on the side.

Well-executed ramen is a complex, layered dish – though it rarely costs

more than ¥1000 a bowl. Costs are minimised by fast-food-style service:

often you order from a vending machine (you’ll get a paper ticket, which

you hand to the chef); water is self-serve. Many ramen-ya (ラーメン屋;

ramen restaurants) also serve fried rice and gyōza (餃子; dumplings).

Yakitori

Putting away skewers of yakitori (charcoal-grilled chicken, but vegetables

are served, too), along with beer, is a popular after-work ritual. Most

yakitori-ya (焼き鳥屋; yakitori restaurants) are convivial counter joints

where the food is grilled over hot coals in front of you. It’s typical to order a

few skewers at a time. They’re usually priced around ¥100 or ¥200 a piece;

one order may mean two skewers (and thus may mean double the price). The

chef will ask if you want your skewers seasoned with shio (salt) or tare

(sauce). Yakitori-ya are often located near train stations and are best

identified by a red lantern outside (and the smell of grilled chicken).

Common yakitori dishes:

negima (ねぎま) pieces of white meat alternating with leek

kawa (皮) chicken skin

piiman (ピーマン) small green capsicums (peppers)

rebā (レバー) chicken livers

sasami (ささみ) skinless chicken-breast pieces

shiitake (しいたけ) Japanese mushrooms

tama-negi (玉ねぎ) round white onions

tebasaki (手羽先) chicken wings

tsukune (つくね) chicken meatballs

yaki-onigiri (焼きおにぎり) grilled rice ball

Yakitori (charcoal-grilled chicken skewers) | TKYSZK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Soba & Udon

Soba (そば) are thin brown buckwheat noodles, which may or may not be

cut with wheat (for 100% buckwheat look for the words 十割そば or to-

wari soba). Udon (うどん) are thicker white wheat noodles. Some

restaurants may specialise in one or the other; other places will serve both. In

general, eastern Japan tends to favour soba while western Japan leans

towards udon. There are also many regional variations.

Cheap noodle shops, where a meal costs less than ¥1000, are everywhere.

At better shops, the noodles will be handmade ( te-uchi; 手打ち) from

premium flours and mountain spring water (and will cost twice as much).

But even at their most refined, noodles are a reasonably affordable meal.

Both soba and udon may be served in a hot broth that is flavoured with

bonito, kelp, soy sauce and mirin (sweet sake) – often with a choice of

toppings, like ebi-ten (海老天; tempura prawns).

They may also be served cooled with dipping sauce (a more condensed

broth) on the side, to which you can add aromatics like spring onions or

wasabi. The weather may be a deciding factor but so is personal preference:

if a place is famous for its noodles many customers would order them

chilled, to better appreciate the flavour. (Also cooled noodles won’t go

mushy like those in hot broth so can be savoured rather than scoffed.)

When you order cooled noodles, the restaurant will often bring you a

small kettle of hot water (the slightly starchy water used to boil the noodles).

Pour it in the cup with the remaining dipping sauce and enjoy it like a hot

broth.

Tempura

Tempura is seafood (fish, eel or prawns) and vegetables (like pumpkin,

green pepper, sweet potato or onion) lightly battered and deep-fried in

sesame oil. Season by dipping each piece lightly in salt or a bowl of ten-

tsuyu (broth for tempura) mixed with grated daikon (Japanese radish).

At a speciality restaurant, tempura is served as a set (all at once, with rice

and soup) or as a course, with pieces delivered one at a time freshly cooked;

you can order extras on top of the set or course, but rarely just à la carte.

A tempura meal can cost between ¥1500 and ¥10,000, depending on the

pedigree of the shop. Shokudō often serve cheaper ten-don (天丼; assorted

tempura on rice) dishes. Tempura can also often be ordered as a side dish at

izakaya and noodle restaurants.

Tonkatsu

Tonkatsu is a pork cutlet breaded in panko and deep-fried, almost always

served as a set meal that includes rice, miso soup and a heaping mound of

shredded cabbage. Season with tonkatsu sauce, a curious (and highly

addictive) ketchupy condiment, or karashi (hot spicy yellow mustard). At

around ¥1000 to ¥2000 a meal, it’s perfect for when you want something

hearty and filling. The best tonkatsu is said to be made from kurobuta (black

Berkshire pork), from Kagoshima.

When ordering at a speciality shop, you can choose between rōsu (ロー

ス; a fattier cut of pork) and hire (ヒレ; a leaner cut). Tonkatsu and other

breaded and fried dishes are often served at shokudō. Look for katsu-don (か

つ丼; rice topped with a fried pork cutlet), katsu-karē (カツカレー; rice

topped with a fried pork cutlet and curry) and ebi-katsu (海老カツ; breaded

and fried prawns) on menus.

COOKING COURSES

A Tsukiji Soba Academy, Tokyo

A Green Cooking School, Takayama

A Uzuki, Kyoto

A Nakano Udon School, Shikoku

A Kitchen Kujo, Tokyo

Sukiyaki & Shabu-Shabu

Both sukiyaki (すき焼き) and shabu-shabu (しゃぶしゃぶ) are hotpot

dishes, cooked by diners at the table, and the same restaurant usually serves

both (but may be known for one or the other). For sukiyaki, thin slices of

beef are briefly simmered in a broth of shōyu (soy sauce), sugar and sake

and then dipped in raw egg (you can skip the last part, though it makes the

marbled beef taste even creamier).

For shabu-shabu, thin slices of pork and/or beef are swished around in

boiling broth – shabu-shabu is the onomatopoeia for the sound of the meat

being swished – then dipped in either a goma-dare (sesame sauce) or ponzu

(citrus and soy sauce).

In either case, a healthy mix of veggies and tofu are added to the pot a

little bit at a time followed by noodles at the end. So while sukiyaki and

shabu-shabu can seem expensive (from around ¥3000 per person to upwards

of ¥10,000 for premium beef), it is an all-inclusive meal.

One party shares the pot and the minimum order is usually two (though

some places do lunch deals for solo diners). The waitstaff will set everything

up for you and show you what to do.

Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a dish that flies in the face of the prevailing image of

Japanese food being subtle. It’s a thick, savoury pancake stuffed with pork,

squid, cabbage, cheese, mochi (pounded rice cake) – anything really

( okonomi means ‘as you like’; yaki means ‘fry’). Once cooked, it’s seasoned

with katsuo-bushi (bonito flakes), shōyu (soy sauce), ao-nori (green laver), a

tonkatsu sauce and mayonnaise.

Restaurants specialising in okonomiyaki have hotplates built into the

tables or counter. Some places do the cooking for you; others give you a

bowl of batter and fillings and leave you to it. (Don’t panic: the staff will

mime instructions and probably keep an eye on you to make sure no real

disasters occur.)

Okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) | MAYURA BENJARATTANAPAKEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sweets

Sweets in Japan are traditionally considered an accompaniment for tea,

though many restaurants have adopted the custom of dessert and end a meal

with a serving of sliced fruit or maybe ice cream. Japanese confections are

known generically as wagashi (as opposed to yōgashi, Western-style sweets

like cake and cookies). The basic ingredients are just rice and a sweetened

paste of red azuki beans (called anko). Flavour (usually subtle) and design

(often exquisite) are influenced by the seasons. In spring they may be shaped

like cherry blossoms or wrapped in cherry leaves; in autumn they might be

golden coloured, like the leaves, or flavoured with chestnut.

Okashi-ya (sweet shops) are easy to spot: they usually have open fronts

with their wares laid out in wooden trays to entice passers-by. Buying sweets

is simple – just point at what you want and indicate with your fingers how

many you’d like.

Cheap Treats

Tako-yaki (たこ焼き) Bite-sized doughy dumplings stuffed with chunks of octopus. A popular street

snack in Osaka; try them at Wanaka Honten.

Curry pan (カレーパン) Deep-fried doughnuts filled with Japanese-style curry (thick, brown, often

more sweet than spicy). Most bakeries sell them; Kōbe’s Isuzu Bakery is especially famous for them.

Mitarashi dango (みたらし団子) Small silky rice dumplings stacked five on a skewer and lacquered

in a sweet and savoury soy-based glaze. A Kyoto speciality.

Onsen tamago (温泉たまご) Literally eggs cooked in onsen water, these are commonly sold in onsen

towns where the springs come in naturally very hot. Look for them in Beppu and Yunomine Onsen, and at Hakone’s Ōwakudani.

Dare to Try

Nattō (納豆) These partially fermented soybeans with the scent of ammonia are the litmus test by

which Japanese judge a foreigner’s sense of culinary adventure. (Don’t be surprised if someone asks

you: ‘Can you eat nattō?’) It is often served at ryokan breakfasts.

Shirako (白子) Milt (the sperm sac) from cod or fugu is a winter delicacy. It can be found in sushi

restaurants and izakaya around Japan, usually poached and served in a light, citrusy soy sauce.

Shiokara (塩辛) Chunks of seafood fermented in their own heavily salted viscera. Shiokara is a

classic grandpa bar snack, washed down with sake at old-school izakaya.

Hoya (海鞘) Sea squirt (also called sea pineapple) is an alien-looking marine creature often served

raw (but may also be grilled, dried, salted or smoked) and a specialty of Sanriku Kaigan. Season: May

through September.

Inago no tsukudani (いなごの佃煮) Rice grasshoppers braised in soy sauce and sugar were once a

common source of protein; still eaten today around Nagano.

Special Diets

Restaurants in Japan are not as used to catering to dietary restrictions as their

counterparts in some other countries. Restaurants and inns that regularly get

international guests are usually accommodating, as are the restaurants in

international hotels.

State your restrictions at the earliest possible opportunity, like when you

are booking a ryokan. Given time, most places will try to be

accommodating. That said, in many cases your options will be defined by

how strictly you adhere to restrictions; for example, unless explicitly noted

otherwise, your vegetable tempura is going to be fried in the same oil as the

prawns.

On the surface, Japan would appear to be an easy place for veggies and

vegans, but the devil is in the details: many dishes (including miso soup) are

seasoned with dashi, a broth made from fish.

Many cities in Japan do have restaurants that specifically offer vegetarian

and vegan dishes. Happy Cow (www.happycow.net/asia/japan) is a good

resource. In the countryside, you’ll need to work a little bit harder and be

prepared to explain what you can and cannot eat.

Of special note is shōjin-ryōri, the traditionally vegetarian cuisine of

Buddhist monks; Kōya-san in Kansai is a good place for this.

Many chain restaurants and deli counters label their dishes with icons

indicating potential allergens (such as dairy, eggs, peanuts, wheat and

shellfish), but otherwise this can be tricky. You’ll want to have a list of

allergens written in Japanese on hand.

Gluten-free is particularly challenging, as there is a little awareness of

coeliac disease in Japan and many kitchen staples, such as soy sauce, contain

wheat (and even restaurant staff may not be aware of this). The Gluten-Free

Expats Japan! Facebook group is a good resource.

Japan now has more halal options than it used to have. For certified halal

restaurants, see Halal Gourmet Japan (www.halalgourmet.jp).

SAKE GLOSSARY

dai-ginjō (大吟醸) sake made from rice kernels with 50% or more of their original volume

polished away

genshu (原酒) undiluted sake, often with an alcohol content close to 20%

ginjō (吟醸) sake made from rice kernels with 40% to 50% of their original volume polished

away

junmai-shu (純米酒) ‘pure rice sake’, made from only rice, kōji and water

koshu (古酒) aged sake, often golden-hued and sweet

nama-zake (生酒) fresh, unpasteurised sake

nigori-zake (濁り酒) milky-white ‘cloudy sake’, often rather sweet

shiboritate (搾立て) young ‘nouveau’ sake that comes out in autumn

tokutei-meishōshu (特定 名称酒) premium sake; distinguished by being either ginjō or above

or junmai-shu

What to Drink

Japan has a long history of, and love for, drinking. Sake, or nihonshū, as the

Japanese call it, and o-cha (green tea) are the country’s two signature drinks.

There is also craft beer, award-winning whisky and meticulously brewed

coffee to get excited about. Japan’s cities have excellent bars and cafes; in

rural areas, seek out local styles of sake.

Sake

What much of the world calls ‘sake’ the Japanese call nihonshū (日本酒; the

drink of Japan). It’s made from rice, water and kōji, a mould that helps to

convert the starch in the rice into fermentable sugars.

Sake has existed for as long as history has been recorded in Japan (and

odds are a lot longer). It plays an important part in a variety of Shintō rituals,

including wedding ceremonies, and many Shintō shrines display huge

barrels of sake in front of their halls (most of them are empty). Naturally,

sake is the best pairing for traditional Japanese cuisine.

The rice used to make sake is different from the rice grown for eating: the

grain is larger and starchier. It’s polished before fermentation and – generally

speaking – the greater the degree of polishing the better the sake will be.

That which is made from only the innermost part of the kernel is the most

prized. Sometimes the alcohol content is artificially regulated (either

increased or reduced). On average the alcohol content of sake is around

15%; by law it can be no more than 22%.

The taste is often categorised as sweet ( ama-kuchi; 甘口) or dry ( kara-

kuchi; 辛口), though these are just starting points. Sake can also be tanrei

(crisp), hanayaka (fragrant), odayaka (mellow) and much more. Sake is

always brewed during the winter, in the cold months that follow the rice

harvest in September. Fresh, young sake is ready by late autumn.

Sake can be drunk reishu (冷酒; chilled), jō-on (常温; at room

temperature), nuru-kan (ぬる燗; warmed) or atsu-kan (熱燗; piping hot),

according to the season and personal preference. The top-drawer stuff is

normally served chilled. Sake is traditionally presented in a ceramic jug

known as a tokkuri, and poured into tiny cups known as o-choko or sakazuki.

A traditional measure of sake is one gō (一合), which is a little over 180mL

or 6oz. In speciality bars, you will have the option of ordering by the glass,

which will often be filled to overflowing and brought to you in a wooden

container to catch the overflow.

Beer

First brewed in Japan at the end of the 1800s, biiru (ビール; beer) is now the

country’s favourite tipple. Many a night out at an izakaya (Japanese pub-

eatery) begins with the phrase, ‘toriaezu biiru!’ (‘first off, beer!’). Beer in

Japan has long been ruled by what are known as the big five: Kirin, Asahi,

Sapporo, Suntory and Orion (the latter is Okinawa’s signature beer). Most

bars and izakaya just serve one kind of lager (made by one of the above),

either as mugs of draught beer ( nama biiru; 生ビール) or in 633mL bottles

( bin-biiru; 瓶ビール) meant to be shared among the table and drunk in

glasses).

Japan does have a growing number of craft brewers; to sample their

wares, seek out craft beer speciality bars – most cities have at least one. For

the latest on the craft beer scene, check out blog Beer Tengoku

(www.beertengoku.com) or follow @JapanBeerTimes.

Our favourites include the following:

A Baird Beer, Shizuoka

A Minoh Beer, Osaka

A Hitachino Nest, Ibaraki

A Yo-Ho Brewing, Nagano

A Shiga Kogen, Nagano

DRINKING CULTURE

In Japan it’s considered bad form to fill your own glass. Instead, fill the drained glasses around

you and someone will quickly reciprocate; when they do, raise your glass slightly with two

hands – a graceful way to receive anything. ‘Cheers!’ in Japanese is ‘Kampai!’; glasses are

raised though usually not clinked.

Tea

Japan is a treat for tea lovers. Here o-cha (お茶; tea) means green tea and

broadly speaking there are two kinds: ryokucha (緑茶; steeped with leaves)

and matcha (抹茶), which is made by whisking dried and milled leaves with

water until a cappuccino level of frothiness is achieved. It’s matcha that is

served in the tea ceremony; it is quite bitter, so it is accompanied by a

traditional sweet.

When you order o-cha in a Japanese restaurant (it’s usually free, like

water), you’ll most likely be served bancha (番茶; ordinary tea). In summer,

you might get cold mugicha (麦茶; roasted barley tea), instead. After a

course meal, restaurants often serve hōjicha (ほうじ茶; roasted green tea),

which is weaker and less caffeinated.

To really get to know Japanese tea, visit a teahouse or speciality shop,

which will serve matcha and higher-grades of ryokucha, such as sencha (煎

茶; medium-grade green tea) and gyokuro (玉露; the highest grade of green

tea, shaded from the sun and picked early in the season). Cafes often serve

black tea ( kōcha; 紅茶), but rarely serve green tea. Department store food

halls are also a good bet for quality tea to take home.

Nightlife

Any Japanese city of reasonable size will have a nightlife district. Famous

ones include Tokyo’s Kabukichō, Osaka’s Minami (and especially

Dōtombori) and Sapporo’s Susukino. Such districts are stocked, often

several storeys high, with a medley of drinking options that include izakaya,

cocktail bars, Western-style pubs, jazz cafes, karaoke parlours, nightclubs

and more – all awash in the colourful, LED-lit signage that forms Japan’s

urban signature.

The legal drinking age in Japan is 20. Bars generally don’t require photo

ID as proof of age, but nightclubs are required to check ID cards (of

everyone, no matter how far past 20 you look). Though local governments

have been cracking down on this practice, some establishments in well-

known nightlife districts do employ street touts; though not all are employed

by shady places (where bills may come inflated), it’s best to steer clear of

them.

Karaoke

Karaoke (カラオケ; pronounced kah-rah-oh-kay) isn’t just about singing:

it’s an excuse to let loose, a bonding ritual, a reason to keep the party going

past the last train and a way to kill time until the first one starts in the

morning. When words fail, it’s a way to express yourself – are you the type

to sing the latest J-pop hit (dance moves included) or do you go in for an

Okinawan folk ballad? It doesn’t matter if you’re a good singer or not

(though the tone-deaf might sign up for singing lessons – such is the

important social function of karaoke), as long as you’ve got heart.

In Japan, karaoke is sung in a private room among friends. Admission is

usually charged per person by the half-hour, though most places offer a

variety of packaged deals that include a set number of singing hours with or

without unlimited drinks. Food and drinks can be ordered from the phone in

the room. To choose a song, use the touch-screen device to search by artist

or title; most have an English function and plenty of English songs to choose

from. Then let your inner diva shine!

All major cities will have karaoke parlours, usually in well-marked tower

buildings around train stations or in nightlife districts.

Local Specialities

Tokyo

Sushi Tokyo’s signature dish is nigiri-zushi, the style of sushi most popular around the world today:

those bite-sized slivers of seafood hand-pressed onto pedestals of rice.

Nouveau Ramen Creativity distilled in a bowl of noodles and the best budget gourmet experience

around.

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Soba Nagano is famous for its soba (buckwheat noodles).

Mountain Cuisine In and around the Alps local specialities include foraged mushrooms and shoots;

game, like deer; and river fish, like ayu (sweetfish).

Seafood The Sea of Japan’s cold waters produce excellent seafood, the most prized of which is kan-

buri (winter-fattened yellow tail).

Soba, Honke Owariya, Kyoto | JUNICHI MIYAZAKI/LONELY PLANET ©

Kyoto

Kaiseki Japan’s haute cuisine developed in the old imperial capital. Kyoto has the most highly

regarded kaiseki restaurants in the country (including some for diners on more modest budgets).

Tea & Sweets The home of the tea ceremony is naturally the best place to sample green tea and the

wagashi (Japanese sweets) served with it. Nearby Uji is Japan’s most famous tea-producing region.

Kansai

Street Food Don’t miss Osaka speciality tako-yaki (grilled octopus dumplings), sold at street stalls;

Osaka is also famous for okonomiyaki (a grill-it-yourself savoury pancake).

Kōbe Beef Locally raised beef of the highest pedigree, in cosmopolitan Kōbe.

Vegetarian Temple Food The temple complex Kōya-san is an excellent place to sample shōjin-ryōri, the vegetarian cuisine of Buddhist monks.

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Hiroshima-yaki You can’t visit Hiroshima without sampling the city’s distinctive style of

okonomiyaki, topped with noodles and a fried egg.

Oysters In winter, oyster lovers from across Japan seek out the bivalves harvested from the Inland Sea

near Hiroshima. Temporary kaki-goya (oyster houses) with makeshift grills appear in towns on the

coast.

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Hotpots Hotpot dishes are common in the remote and rugged deep north of Japan’s mainland. Each

area has its own style: in Yamagata it’s made with taro; in Akita it’s made with kiritanpo – kneaded

rice grilled on bamboo spits.

Gyūtan Sendai’s local speciality is thinly sliced, surprisingly tender beef tongue grilled over charcoal.

Sake Niigata is known for its distinctive style of crisp, dry sake (called tanrei karakuchi).

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Shellfish Hokkaidō’s cold waters are fertile breeding grounds for flavourful crab, scallops and surf

clams in winter, and shrimp and sea urchin in summer.

Miso-ramen Sapporoites keep warm in winter with ramen spiked with pungent miso and topped with

vegetables stir-fried with garlic.

Lamb BBQ Hokkaidō locals love lamb grilled over hot coals (a dish called jingisukan) paired with

copious mugs of draught beer.

Miso ramen | SASAKEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shikoku

Largely rural Shikoku excels in simple pleasures, such as udon (in Kagawa)

and katsuo-tataki (seared bonito; in Kōchi).

Kyūshū

Hakata Ramen Fukuoka is Japan’s top ramen pilgrimage spot. Here the signature style is thin noodles

served in an intensely rich tonkotsu (pork bone broth). Eat it at one of the city’s many yatai (open-air

food stalls).

Shippoku-ryōri Nagasaki’s formal cuisine is a blend of Japanese, Chinese and Portuguese – a legacy

of the city’s position as an open port. Also try castella, a sponge cake based on the recipe of a 16th-

century Portuguese missionary.

Shōchū Kagoshima’s signature tipple is this strong distilled spirit.

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Okinawa, which was its own kingdom until the mid-19th century, has a food

culture all its own. Local dishes to try include umibudō (sea grapes – a type

of seaweed), mimigā (sliced pigs’ ears marinated in vinegar) and gōyā

champurū (stir-fry containing bitter melon, an Okinawan vegetable).

Awamori is Okinawa’s firewater, distilled from rice.

Plan Your Trip

Travel with Children

Japan is generally a great place to travel with kids: it’s safe, clean,

full of mod cons and easy to get around. Not many sights go out of

their way to appeal to children, so you may have to get creative, but

teens should be easily wowed by pop culture and dazzling

cityscapes.

Best Regions for Kids

Tokyo

Pop culture galore: stay in a hotel with a giant Godzilla statue, explore the world of Japan’s top

animator, Miyazaki Hayao, at the Ghibli Museum or shop for character goods. Teens will love

neighbourhoods like Harajuku and Shibuya.

Kansai

Meet the deer of Nara-kōen, see the castle in Himeji and bask in the colourful lights of Osaka.

Central Honshū

Hiking and skiing in the Alps, cycling past rice fields and exploring old farm villages outside

Takayama and a fantastic castle in Matsumoto.

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Great skiing, snowboarding, hiking and camping opportunities for outdoorsy families.

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Work in a little beach time in subtropical Okinawa – a popular destination for local families.

Off-the-beaten-track island Taketomi is great for kids: there are no cars (bicycles only!) and

great, low-key beaches.

Japan for Kids

Accommodation

Most hotels can provide a cot for an extra fee (providing there’s enough

room for one). Some hotels have triple rooms, but quads or rooms with two

queen-sized beds are rare, as are conjoining rooms.

Local families often stay in traditional accommodation (ryokan and

minshuku) with large tatami rooms that can hold up to four or five futons,

laid out in a row. Unfortunately this can be pricey: if your child is old

enough to require their own futon, the price is often the same or near to that

of an adult (minus a discount for meals).

Hostels and guesthouses often have family rooms (or at worst, a four-

person dorm room that you can book out); again there is usually no

discounted child price. These also often have handy kitchen facilities.

Eating

Local families take a lot of meals at ‘family restaurants’ (ファミレス;

famiresu). Chains like Gusto, Jonathan’s, Saizeriya and Royal Host have

kids’ meals, high chairs, big booths and nonsmoking sections. High chairs

are not as common as in the West. Supermarkets, bakeries, fast-food

restaurants and convenience stores stock sandwiches and other foods that

kids are likely to go for; supermarkets carry baby food. You might want to

pack small forks and spoons, as not all restaurants have these on hand. If

your child has allergies, get someone (perhaps at your accommodation) to

write them down in Japanese. Chain restaurants often have common

allergens marked on the menus with icons.

Getting Around

Trains have priority seating for pregnant passengers and those with small

children. It’s best to avoid trains during morning rush hour (7am to

9.30am). If you must, children under 12 can ride with mums in the less-

crowded women-only carriages. Children between the ages of six and 11

ride for half-price on trains (including bullet trains); children under six ride

for free.

Train stations and buildings in larger cities usually have lifts; many

attractions, such as temples and shrines, do not have ramps (and prams do

not get the same access to special elevators and back passages for visitors in

wheelchairs). Beware that side streets often lack pavements.

Travelling by car (outside major cities) is often a good strategy for

families, as it makes child and luggage-wrangling easier. Child seats in taxis

are generally not available, but most car-rental agencies will provide one if

you ask in advance.

Infants

Larger cities have more public facilities for nappy-changing and nursing;

department stores, shopping malls and larger train stations are all good bets.

Breastfeeding is generally not done in public, though some mums do (find a

quiet corner and use a shawl). Pharmacies stock nappies (diapers) and

wipes.

What to Pack

Do bring any medicines that your child takes regularly (or may need), as

Japanese pharmacies don’t sell foreign medications (though similar ones

can be found). The shinkansen (bullet train) is very smooth and few

travellers report feeling motion sickness, but if your child is very sensitive,

you might consider preventative measures; winding mountain roads are as

nausea-inducing as anywhere.

Children’s Highlights

Amusement Parks

Tokyo Disney Resort, Tokyo Visit the only-in-Japan Disney Sea park (along with classic Disney

attractions).

Universal Studios Japan, Osaka Japanese version of the American cinema theme park.

Sky Circus, Tokyo Experience being virtually shot out of a cannon over Tokyo.

Fuji-Q Highland, Fuji-Yoshida Best known for its thrill rides.

Trains

Japanese kids love trains; odds are yours will, too. Just getting to ride the

shinkansen is a neat experience.

Kyoto Railway Museum, Kyoto The history of Japanese trains, from steam engines to shinkansen.

SCMAGLEV & Railway Park, Nagoya See an actual maglev (the world’s fastest train) and test-ride a

shinkansen simulator.

Skiing & Snowboarding

Niseko United, Niseko One of Japan’s biggest resorts, with English-speaking instructors and

children’s ski camps.

Happō-One Ski Resort, Hakuba Another big resort, with lessons in English for kids and a snow park

for little ones.

Cycling Tours

All of the following have child-sized bikes, though urban tours are better

for older kids.

Satoyama Experience, Hida-Furukawa Cycle past rural scenes of rice fields and farmhouses.

Tokyo Great Cycling Tour, Tokyo Urban rides; the same company also does kayaking tours in

Tokyo’s canals.

Cycle Osaka, Osaka City tours around Osaka.

Baseball

Baseball is Japan’s most popular sport and the crowds go wild for it, really

putting on a show. This can be a really fun experience for kids, even if

they’re not already fans of the sport. All major cities have a local team. The

season is March to October.

Plan Your Trip

Japan on a Budget

Japan has a reputation as an expensive place to travel to, but it’s an

image that doesn’t hold up on the ground. With a little strategy, it

can be very reasonable – budget-friendly, even. Many of the

country’s top sights, for example, cost nothing and free festivals

take place year-round.

Top Free Sights

Fushimi Inari-Taisha

Kyoto’s most photogenic shrine, with hundreds of vermilion torii (gates).

Dōtombori

Osaka’s famous neon strip with lots of snack vendors.

Nara-kōen

Sprawling park with historic temples and a herd of semi-wild deer.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

Moving memorial to Hiroshima’s tragic history.

Shibuya Crossing

Tokyo’s famous intersection, abuzz with youthful urban energy and lit by giant video screens.

Sapporo Beer Museum

The history of beer in Japan, in the original Sapporo factory.

Zenkō-ji

Nagano’s fascinating old temple, full of legends.

Oku-no-in

Wooded paths pass moss-covered stupas in this ancient Buddhist cemetery.

Budget Accommodation

Business Hotels These economical (and to be honest, rather utilitarian) hotels offer the best prices

for private rooms with en-suite facilities: it’s possible to find double rooms for as low as ¥8000 (and

single rooms for as low as ¥6000), though these will be a little more expensive in cities like Tokyo,

Kyoto and Osaka. Look for places that include a free breakfast buffet – they can be substantial

enough to keep you going for hours.

Guesthouses & Hostels Japan has fantastic guesthouses and hostels all over; not only are they

generally clean and well-maintained, friendly, English-speaking staff are usually on hand to offer

near concierge-level service. A double or single room is comparative to a business hotel (but usually

has shared facilities); dorm beds cost around ¥3000 (US$25). Some places do charge extra for towel

rentals, so you can save a little yen by bringing your own. Note that rates are often slightly cheaper if

you book directly rather than through a booking site.

Capsule Hotels A capsule berth costs slightly more than a dorm bed in a hostel (maybe ¥4000 per

night), but you get more privacy. You probably wouldn’t want to stay every night in a capsule, but

they’re good for saving money in cities where hotels are pricier.

Camping If you really want to do Japan on the cheap, you can rely on its network of wellmaintained

campsites in rural or resort areas; prices start from ¥500 to ¥1000 per person or tent. Note that many

sites are only open in the summer.

Getting Around on the Cheap

Japan Rail Pass Like the famous Eurail Pass, this is one of the world’s great travel bargains and is the best way to see a lot of Japan on a budget. It allows unlimited travel on Japan’s brilliant nationwide

rail system, including the lightning-fast shinkansen (bullet train). There are also more regionally

specific train passes that are cheaper, so examine your itinerary carefully before deciding.

Seishun Jūhachi Kippu Another great deal, but with very specific conditions: for ¥11,850 (US$100),

you get five one-day tickets good for travel on any regular Japan Railways train (meaning not the

shinkansen or any high-speed limited express trains) during a limited period of a few weeks; it’s only

available at certain times during the year. If the timing works, and you’re a fan of slow travel, this is

a unique, ultra-cheap way to get around.

Bus Long-distance buses are the cheapest way to get around and longer routes have night buses,

which saves a night on accommodation. There are also bus passes, which can make this an even

cheaper way to get around.

Car Hire Highway tolls and petrol in Japan are expensive; however, renting a car can be economical

if you’re travelling as a family or are plotting an itinerary that takes you away from major rail hubs.

Discount Flights Japan has several budget carriers that offer bus-like pricing on some routes – just be

sure to factor in the time and cost of going to/from the airport.

Free Sights & Activities

Shrines & Temples The vast majority of Shintō shrines in Japan cost nothing to enter. Likewise, the

grounds of many temples can be toured for free (often, you only have to pay to enter the halls or a

walled garden).

Traditional Festivals Throughout the year festivals take place at shrines and temples and through

city streets. They’re free, an excellent way to see traditional culture come alive and are well attended

by cheap food vendors. For a calendar, see JNTO’s festivals page

(www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/festivals).

Walks & Hikes These can be the most rewarding part of your trip: exploring an up-and-coming city

neighbourhood, walking old pilgrimage trails or rural lanes, or getting up into the mountains.

Parks Urban parks are generally free to enter (and some gardens are, too) and are popular with locals

on weekends; pack a picnic and settle in for an afternoon of people-watching.

Architecture Japan’s cities, especially Tokyo, have some fantastic buildings designed by many of the

big names in Japanese architecture.

Markets Many seaside towns have fish markets, some rural spots have morning markets and some

cities still have their old-fashioned open-air markets – a great way to connect with local culture, and

often a source of cheap, fresh food.

Eating on the Cheap

Shokudō You can get a good, filling meal in these all-round Japanese eateries for under ¥1000

(US$8.50). As is the case with all restaurants in Japan, tea and water are free and there’s no tipping

required.

Bentō These ‘boxed meals’, which include a variety of dishes, can be picked up for under ¥1000 at

supermarkets. Department store food halls sell gourmet ones for a little bit more; visit just before

closing to buy them on markdown.

Noodles You can get a steaming bowl of tasty ramen for as little as ¥600 (US$5). Tachigui (stand-

and-eat counter joints) sell soba (buckwheat noodles) and udon (thick white wheat noodles) for even

less – starting as low as ¥350 per bowl.

Lunch If you want to splurge, do it at lunch when many upscale restaurants offer a smaller course for

significantly less than their dinner course.

Convenience Stores The best friend to all budget travellers, convenience stores stock sandwiches,

rice balls, hot dishes and beer, all of which you can assemble into a very affordable (if not exactly

healthy) meal. Accommodations always have kettles so cup noodles are always an option.

Regions at a Glance

Tokyo

Sushi & More

Sushi is Tokyo’s signature dish, but it’s just the tip of the iceberg. There are

restaurants here that excel at just about everything. Tokyoites love dining

out; join them, and delight in the sheer variety of tastes and experiences the

city has to offer.

Pop Culture

For fans of Japan’s infectious pop culture – be it the enchanting anime films

of Studio Ghibli (Spirited Away) or the old-school monster movies starring

Godzilla – this is the place to be. Snap selfies with giant robots and cosplay

while go-karting around the city.

Style City

Tokyo is one of the world’s great shopping cities, with grand old

department stores, avant-garde boutiques, vintage shops and style mavens

who set global trends. There are some excellent shops for traditional crafts

here, too.

Regions at a Glance

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

Hot Spring Getaways

Some of Japan’s favourite onsen retreats are all within easy striking

distance of the capital: mountain hideaways to the north, lakeside resorts to

the west and laid-back coastal villages to the south.

Mountains & Sea

In addition to climbing Mt Fuji, outdoor activities include hiking among

cedar groves, strolling along bluffs, surfing and sea kayaking. Options

range from easy Tokyo day trips to island excursions.

Temple Towns

There are two distinctly different destinations for temples here: Nikkō, in

the mountains, has ornately decorated structures; and Kamakura, by the sea,

is home to austere Zen temples.

Regions at a Glance

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Mountain Hot Springs

The mountainous heart of Japan bubbles over with exquisite hot springs and

fantastic inns in which to enjoy them. There’s nothing like gazing up at

snowy peaks while steam rises from your body.

Thatched Roofs

Travel to the remote village of Shirakawa-gō (or, even remoter, Ainokura)

and fall asleep to the sound of chirping frogs in a centuries-old thatched-

roof farmhouse.

Hiking & Skiing

In summer the Japan Alps is the country’s top hiking destination. Come

winter it offers some of Asia’s best skiing. Après-ski soaking in hot springs

is mandatory and there’s nightlife in some ski towns, too.

Regions at a Glance

Kyoto

Shintō & Buddhist Masterpieces

With over 1000 Buddhist temples and more than 400 Shintō shrines, Kyoto

is the place to savour Japanese religious architecture and garden design.

Find a quiet temple to call your own or join the throngs at a popular shrine.

Culture & Crafts

Japan’s cultural capital for over a millennium has it all: historic geisha

districts, classical theatre, excellent museums and venerable shops selling

artisan crafts like lacquerware and washi (Japanese handmade paper).

Kaiseki, Tea & More

Kyoto is the place to try kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) and to get better

acquainted with Japanese tea. Shop the city’s central food market or try a

cooking class.

Regions at a Glance

Kansai

Urban Pleasures

Get your city fix in one of Kansai’s urban centres, like the bold commercial

hub Osaka or the cosmopolitan port city Kōbe. Both have vibrant dining

scenes, nightlife and shopping districts.

Buddhist Monuments

See the remains of Japan’s earliest temples – and the famous Great Buddha

– in Nara and Hōryū-ji or visit the mystical mountain monastery Kōya-san,

established by Japan’s most famous monk.

Castles & Tombs

There aren’t many original castles left in Japan but two of the best are here:

the ‘White Egret Castle’ of Himeji and Hikone-jō. The town of Asuka is

home to burial mounds from the early days of Japanese history.

Regions at a Glance

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Contemporary Art

Naoshima (and the islands in its orbit) in the Inland Sea has become

synonymous in Japan with contemporary art and architecture. Come see

works from international artists inside buildings that enhance the natural

scenery.

Momentous Events

Hiroshima is a moving place to reflect on the history of the last century and

the way forward. Other areas of western Honshū were key players in

Japan’s 19th-century modernisation.

Slow Travel

Cycle over bridges linking the tiny islands of the Inland Sea, rent a car and

drive through the bucolic rural scenery of Yamaguchi, or head to Tottori’s

forlorn sand dunes.

Regions at a Glance

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Rustic Escapes

That image you have of bathing with stars overhead or the wooden

bathhouse all by its lonesome in the mountains – that’s Tōhoku. The onsen

here are remote, isolated and among the best in the country.

Parks & Peaks

Northern Honshū is blessed with some spectacular mountains, including

Dewa Sanzan – three peaks used for ascetic training (you can hike them). In

winter there is skiing at established resorts and some less developed spots.

Festivals

Nobody in Japan does traditional festivals like they do up here; visit in the

summer and book ahead. Ancient customs and beliefs live on in Tōhoku,

preserved by centuries of isolation.

Regions at a Glance

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Pristine Wilderness

This is mountain country and big snow country, where skiers carve snow

drifts reaching several metres in depth and hikes through old-growth forests

can last for days. There’s so much to explore here.

Seafood & Ramen

The cold northern waters produce excellent seafood, including prized

delicacies like uni (sea urchin) and crab. Capital city Sapporo’s specialities

are miso-rāmen and its namesake beer.

Ainu Legacy

The culture of Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, the Ainu, is represented in

museums, in concerts of traditional folk songs and in shops, restaurants and

inns run by Ainu descendants.

Regions at a Glance

Shikoku

Gorgeous Countryside

A short drive from the mainland madness, Iya Valley has dramatic gorges,

ancient vine bridges and a hint of sustainable living. Raft along the pristine

Yoshino-gawa.

Pilgrim Trails

The 88-temple pilgrimage is a rite of passage for many Japanese who,

dressed in white and armed with a walking stick, lower the pulse, raise the

gaze and seek to honour the great Buddhist saint, Kōbō Daishi.

Sand & Waves

There’s good surfing, especially at Shishikui in Tokushima and Ikumi

Beach in Kōchi; the crowd-free swells at Ōkinohama should be legendary.

There’s also a slow-life, beach-bum vibe to match.

Regions at a Glance

Kyūshū

Nagasaki

Christian rebellions led to over two centuries of seclusion, during which

Nagasaki’s Dejima Island was Japan’s window to the world. Visit the city to

learn about its fascinating history.

Smoking Volcanoes

Kyūshū is home to two of Japan’s most famous – and famously active –

volcanoes: smoking Sakurajima, looming over the skyline of Kagoshima,

and Aso-san, a hulking giant in the middle of the island.

In Hot Water & Hot Sand

Some of Japan’s most popular onsen towns are here, including Beppu,

Yufuin and Kurokawa Onsen (our favourite, for its secluded riverside

location). In Ibusuki experience something different: getting buried in hot

sand.

Regions at a Glance

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Sun-Soaked

Japan’s best beaches are naturally found on its semi-tropical islands. Laze

about the gorgeous golden beaches of the Kerama or Ishigaki Islands,

snorkel or go for a dive.

Ancient Cedars

Yakushima is a beacon for hikers who come to bask in the enormity of the

island’s towering cedars. Almost the whole island is forested, blanketed

with one of Japan’s most primitive natural environments.

Island Cuisine

Tuck into a plateful of gōyā champurū, Okinawa’s signature stir-fry with

bitter melon. Add some awamori, the local firewater, and you’ll be ready to

grab the sanshin (banjo) and party.

Tokyo

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Tokyo

%03 / POP 13.84 MILLION

Why Go?

More than any one sight, it’s Tokyo (東京) itself that enchants visitors. It’s a

sprawling, organic thing, stretching as far as the eye can see. Always changing,

and with a diverse collection of neighbourhoods, no two experiences of the city

are ever the same. Some areas feel like a vision from the future, with ever

taller, sleeker structures popping up each year; others evoke the past with low-

slung wooden buildings and glowing lanterns radiating surprising warmth;

elsewhere, drab concrete blocks hide art galleries and cocktail bars and every

lane hints at possible discoveries. In Tokyo you can experience the whole

breadth of Japanese culture, from centuries-old sumo wrestling and kabuki

theatre to cutting-edge contemporary art and, on a more playful note, giant

robots. There are also opportunities to engage deeper: the city has lots of

cooking courses and craft workshops. And if eating and drinking are among

your main travel inspirations, well, you’ve come to the right place.

When to Go

Mar & Apr Cherry-blossom viewing is in full swing – bring a bentō and

spread the picnic blanket.

May–Sep Hot and humid, but lively traditional festivals more than make up for

it.

Oct–Dec Crisp, cool and sunny days, red maples in the gardens and golden

gingkos along the streets.

Best Places to Eat

A Inua

A Kizushi

A Tempura Kondō

A Mensho

A Tonki

Best Places to Stay

A BnA STUDIO Akihabara

A Hanare

A Aman Tokyo

A Mustard Hotel

A Sawanoya Ryokan

Tokyo Highlights

1 Raising a glass in the colourful nightlife district of Shinjuku.

2 Joining the city’s eccentric fashion tribes as they shop in Harajuku.

3 Soaking up the atmosphere at Asakusa’s centuries old temple, Sensō-ji.

4 Losing yourself in the vestiges of the old city in Yanesen.

5 Catching the salt-slinging, belly-slapping ritual of sumo at Ryōgoku

Kokugikan.

6 Getting swept up in the crowds and neon lights at Shibuya Crossing.

7 Seeing the world’s largest collection of Japanese art at the Tokyo

National Museum.

8 Checking out Tokyo’s contemporary architecture along Omote-sandō.

9 Visiting the enchanting Ghibli Museum.

a Experiencing the immersive installations at teamLab Borderless.

History

For most of its history, Tokyo was called Edo (literally ‘Gate of the River’) due

to its location at the mouth of the Sumidagawa. Until the warrior poet Ōta

Dōkan put up a castle here in the 15th century, it was a remote fishing village.

In 1603, warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu decided to make Edo Castle the centre of

his new shogunate (military government). From that point, Edo quickly

transformed into a bustling city and, by the late 18th century, had become the

most populous city in the world.

In 1868, with the reversion of power to the emperor – an act known as the

Meiji Restoration – the capital was officially moved from Kyoto to Edo, which

was then renamed Tokyo, meaning Eastern Capital. At the same time, Japan

ended its 250 years of self-prescribed isolation and began to welcome foreign

influence with open arms. Western fashions and ideas were adopted as Tokyo

eagerly sought to take its place among the pantheon of the world’s great cities.

In 1923 the Great Kantō Earthquake and ensuing fires levelled much of the

city; Tokyo was all but destroyed once more during the devastating Allied air

raids in the final years of WWII. The city remade itself – and then some – in

the decades after the US occupation. A soaring economic crescendo followed,

culminating in the giddy heights of the 1980s ‘bubble economy’. The humbling

‘burst’ in the ‘90s led to a recession that still continues today. Yet Tokyo

remains the beating heart of its island nation, never ceasing to reinvent itself.

Greater Tokyo

1 Top Sights

1 Edo-Tokyo Museum

H3

2 Imperial Palace

E4

1 Sights

3 Fushimi-yagura

E4

4 Japanese Sword Museum

G3

5 Megane-bashi

E4

6 Nijū-bashi

E4

7 Yayoi Kusama Museum

D3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

8 Hato Bus Tours

E6

9 Sky Circus

D1

10 Tokyo Great Cycling Tour

G4

11 Tsukiji Soba Academy

G5

4 Sleeping

12 9 Hours Shinjuku-North

C3

13 Andon Ryokan

H1

14 Book and Bed Ikebukuro

C1

15 Hoshinoya Tokyo

F4

16 Kimi Ryokan

C1

17 Nui

G3

18 Sakura Hotel Ikebukuro

C1

19 Toco

G2

20 Unplan Kagurazaka

D3

21 Wise Owl Hostels Tokyo

G4

5 Eating

22 Hosokawa

H3

23 Kappō Yoshiba

H3

24 Kizushi

G4

25 Mensho

D2

26 Mensho Tokyo

E2

27 Ohitotsuzen Tanbo

C4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

28 Ghetto

A5

29 Mother

A6

30 Popeye

G3

3 Entertainment

31 Arashio Stable

G4

32 National Nō Theatre

C4

33 National Theatre

E4

34 New National Theatre

B4

35 Ryōgoku Kokugikan

H3

36 Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall

B4

7 Shopping

37 Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square

D5

38 Toraya

D5

8 Information

39 Australian Embassy

E6

40 Canadian Embassy

D5

41 French Embassy

D6

42 German Embassy

D6

43 Irish Embassy

E4

44 South Korean Embassy

D6

45 UK Embassy

E4

1 Sights

Tokyo can feel more like a collection of cities than one cohesive one. Pick just

a couple of proximate neighbourhoods to explore in a day. The city is huge and

while public transport is effortlessly smooth, you don’t want to spend half the

day on it.

1 Marunouchi & Nihombashi

Marunouchi is a high-powered business district with lots of gleaming

skyscrapers. Nihombashi is a historic neighbourhood, home to many venerable

old shops and restaurants.

o Intermediatheque

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; インターメディアテク; %03-5777-8600; www.intermediatheque.jp; 2nd & 3rd fl, JP Tower, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-6pm, to 8pm Fri & Sat, usually closed

Sun & Mon; dJR Yamanote line to Tokyo, Marunouchi exit) F

Dedicated to interdisciplinary experimentation, Intermediatheque cherry-picks

from the vast collection of the University of Tokyo (Tōdai) to craft a

fascinating, contemporary museum experience. Go from viewing the best

ornithological taxidermy collection in Japan to a giant pop-art print or the

beautifully encased skeleton of a dinosaur. A handsome Tōdai lecture hall is

reconstituted as a forum for events, including playing 1920s’ jazz recordings

on a gramophone or old movie screenings.

o Imperial Palace

PALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 皇居, Kōkyo; %03-5223-8071; http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp; 1 Chiyoda,

Chiyoda-ku; htours usually 10am & 1.30pm Tue-Sat; bChiyoda line to Ōtemachi, exits C13b & C10) F

The Imperial Palace occupies the site of the original Edo-jō, the Tokugawa

shogunate’s castle. In its heyday this was the largest fortress in the world,

though little remains today apart from the moat and stone walls. Most of the

3.4-sq-km complex is off-limits, as this is the emperor’s home, but join one of

the free tours organised by the Imperial Household Agency to see a small part

of the inner compound.

Tours (lasting around 1¼ hours) run at 10am and 1.30pm usually on Tuesday

to Saturday, but not on public holidays or mornings from late July through to

the end of August. They’re also not held at all from 28 December to 4 January

or when Imperial Court functions are scheduled. Arrive no later than 10

minutes before the scheduled departure time at Kikyō-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 桔梗門; 1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda-ku; htour bookings 8.45am-noon & 1-5pm), the starting and

ending point.

Reservations are taken – via the website, phone or by post – up to a month in

advance (and no later than four days in advance via the website). Alternatively,

go to the office at Kikyō-mon (open 8.45am until noon and 1pm to 5pm) where

you can book for a tour up to seven days in advance; if there is space available

on that day’s tours, you’ll be able to register. Bring photo ID.

The tour will take you past the present palace (Kyūden), a modest low-rise

building completed in 1968 that replaced the one built in 1888, which was

largely destroyed during WWII. Explanations are given only in Japanese;

download the free app (www.kunaicho.go.jp/e-event/app.html) for explanations in English, Chinese, Korean, French or Spanish.

If you’re not on the tour, head to the southwest corner of Kōkyo-gaien

Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 皇居外苑広場, Kōkyo-gaien Hiroba;

www.env.go.jp/garden/kokyogaien) to view two bridges – the iron Nijū-bashi ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 二重橋) and the stone Megane-bashi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 眼鏡橋).

Behind the bridges rises the Edo-era Fushimi-yagura ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 伏見

櫓) watchtower.

The main park of the verdant palace grounds is the Imperial Palace East

Garden ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 東御苑; Kōkyo Higashi-gyoen; http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp; h9am-4pm Nov-Feb, to 4.30pm Mar–mid-Apr, Sep & Oct, to 5pm mid-Apr–Aug, closed Mon & Fri

year-round), which is open to the public without reservations. You must take a

token upon arrival and return it at the end of your visit.

o National Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT)

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立近代美術館, Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan; %03-5777-8600;

www.momat.go.jp; 3-1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child ¥500/free, 1st Sun of month free;

h10am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sun, to 8pm Fri & Sat; bTōzai line to Takebashi, exit 1b)

Regularly changing displays from the museum’s superb collection of more than

12,000 works, by both local and international artists, are shown over floors 2 to

4; special exhibitions are mounted on the ground floor. All pieces date from the

Meiji period onward and impart a sense of how modern Japan has developed

through portraits, photography, contemporary sculptures and video works. The

museum closes in between exhibitions, so check the schedule online first.

Crafts Gallery

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京国立近代美術館 工芸館; www.momat.go.jp; 1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child ¥250/free, 1st Sun of month free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bTōzai line to

Takebashi, exit 1b)

Housed in a vintage red-brick building, this annex of MOMAT stages excellent

changing exhibitions of mingei (folk crafts): ceramics, lacquerware, bamboo,

textiles, dolls and much more. Some exhibits feature works by contemporary

artisans, including some by Japan’s officially designated ‘living national

treasures’.

Tokyo Station

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京駅; www.tokyostationcity.com; 1-9 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; dJR lines to Tokyo Station)

Tokyo Station celebrated its centenary in 2014 with a major renovation and

expansion. Tatsuno Kingo’s original elegant brick building on the Marunouchi

side has been expertly restored to include domes faithful to the original design,

decorated inside with relief sculptures. It’s best viewed straight on from the

plaza on Miyuki-dōri.

Nihombashi

BRIDGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本橋, Nihonbashi; 1 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exits B5 & B6)

Guarded by bronze lions and dragons, this handsome 1911-vintage granite

bridge over the Nihombashi-gawa is partly obscured by the overhead

expressway. During the Edo period this was the beginning of the great trunk

roads (the Tōkaidō, the Nikkō Kaidō etc) that took daimyō (domain lords)

between the capital and their home provinces. It’s still the point from which

distances to Tokyo are measured.

TOKYO IN…

Two Days

Pay a visit to Meiji-jingū in Harajuku, followed by a stroll along Omote-sandō, to check out the

contemporary architecture. Then walk down to Shibuya to see Shibuya Crossing. Afterwards, head

to Shinjuku to see the view from atop the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, grab some

yakitori in Omoide-yokochō and a drink (or a few) in Golden Gai.

The following day, get an early start at either Toyosu Market, where you can see the tuna auction

and have sushi for breakfast, or Tsukiji Market, where you can cobble together a morning meal

from the food vendors. Visit sights in central Tokyo or around Tokyo Bay, like teamLab

Borderless, the Imperial Palace and the landscape garden Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien and catch an act

of kabuki at Kabukiza.

Four Days

On day three, visit the old side of town for some sightseeing in Asakusa, home to Sensō-ji, and

Ueno, home to the Tokyo National Museum. Finish with an afternoon amble through atmospheric

Yanesen and dinner at classic izakaya Shinsuke.

The next day take the west to the magical Ghibli Museum. Get some onsen time in at Spa LaQua

or explore pop culture centre Akihabara, maybe via go-kart. In the evening, head to Roppongi. The

excellent Mori Art Museum stays open until 10pm, after which you can head out into the wilds of

the neighbourhood’s infamous nightlife.

Tokyo International Forum

ARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京国際フォーラム; %03-5221-9000; www.t-i-forum.co.jp; 3-5-1

Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h7am-11.30pm; dJR Yamanote line to Yūrakuchō, central exit) F

This architectural marvel designed by Rafael Viñoly houses a convention and

arts centre, with eight auditoriums and a spacious courtyard in which concerts

and events are held. The eastern wing looks like a glass ship plying the urban

waters; you can access the catwalks from the 7th floor (take the lift).

Marunouchi, Ginza & Tsukiji

1 Top Sights

1 Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien

B7

2 Intermediatheque

B2

3 Tsukiji Market

C6

1 Sights

4 Advertising Museum Tokyo

B6

5 Ginza Graphic Gallery

B5

6 Ginza Maison Hermès Le Forum

B4

7 Ginza Sony Park

B4

8 Imperial Palace East Garden

A1

9 Kikyō-mon

A1

10 Kōkyo-gaien Plaza

A2

11 Nihombashi

D1

12 NI-Tele Really Big Clock

A6

13 Shiseido Gallery

B5

14 Tokyo International Forum

B3

15 Tokyo Station

C2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

16 Hato Bus Tours

B2

Imperial Palace East Garden Walking Tour

(see 53)

4 Sleeping

17 Aman Tokyo

B1

18 Park Hotel Tokyo

A6

19 Prime Pod Ginza Tokyo

C5

5 Eating

20 Ain Soph

C5

21 Bird Land

B4

22 Dhaba India

C3

23 Ginza Sato Yosuke

B4

24 Kyūbey

A5

Meal MUJI Yūrakuchō

(see 49)

25 Nemuro Hanamaru

B2

26 Nihonbashi Dashi Bar Hanare

D1

27 Nihonbashi Tamai

D2

28 Sushikuni

C6

29 Tempura Kondō

B4

30 Yamachō

C6

6 Drinking & Nightlife

31 Bongen Coffee

C4

32 Cha Ginza

B4

33 Chashitsu Kaboku

B3

34 Ginza Lion

B5

35 Ginza Music Bar

B5

36 Nakajima no Ochaya

B7

37 Old Imperial Bar

A4

38 Toyama Bar

D1

3 Entertainment

39 Kabukiza

C5

40 Kanze Nōgakudō

B5

41 Suigian

D1

7 Shopping

42 Akomeya

B3

43 Coredo Muromachi

D1

44 Daimaru

C2

Dover Street Market Ginza

(see 52)

45 Ginza Six

B5

Ginza Tsutaya Books

(see 45)

46 Itōya

C4

47 KITTE

B2

48 Mitsukoshi

D1

49 Muji

B3

50 Okuno Building

C4

51 Takumi

A5

52 Uniqlo

B5

8 Information

53 JNTO Tourist Information Center

B3

54 JR East Travel Service Center

C2

1 Ginza & Tsukiji

Ginza is Tokyo’s most polished neighbourhood with luxury stores and art

galleries.

o Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浜離宮恩賜庭園, Detached Palace Garden; %03-3541-0200; www.tokyo-

park.or.jp/teien; 1-1 Hama-rikyū-teien, Chūō-ku; adult/child ¥300/free; h9am-5pm; bŌedo line to

Shiodome, exit A1)

This beautiful garden, one of Tokyo’s finest, is all that remains of a shogunate

palace that was also an outer fort for Edo Castle. The main features are a large

duck pond with an island that’s home to a functioning tea pavilion, Nakajima

no Ochaya, as well as three other teahouses and wonderfully manicured trees

(black pine, Japanese apricot, hydrangeas etc), some hundreds of years old.

o Tsukiji Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 場外市場, Jōgai Shijō; www.tsukiji.or.jp; 6-chōme Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; hmostly 5am-2pm; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 1)

Tokyo’s main wholesale market may have moved to Toyosu, but there are

many reasons to visit its old home. The tightly packed rows of vendors (which

once formed the Outer Market) hawk market and culinary-related goods, such

as dried fish, seaweed, kitchen knives, rubber boots and crockery. It’s also a

fantastic place to eat, with great street food and a huge concentration of small

restaurants and cafes, most specialising in seafood.

One must-visit is Yamachō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山長; %03-3248-6002; 4-16-1 Tsukiji; omelette slices ¥100; h6am-3.30pm) a venerable purveyor of tamago-yaki (Japanese

rolled-egg omelettes). You can watch them being expertly made as you line up

to buy. Sushikuni is here, too.

Note that ome shops are closed on Sundays and Wednesdays.

Advertising Museum Tokyo

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アド・ミュージアム東京; %03-6218-2500; www.admt.jp; basement,

Caretta Bldg, 1-8-2 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat; bŌedo line to Shiodome,

Shimbashi exit) F

If you see advertising as art, this museum is a spectacle. Run by Dentsu,

Japan’s largest advertising agency, this fine collection runs from woodblock-

printed handbills from the Edo period via sumptuous art nouveau and art deco

Meiji- and Taishō-era works to the best of today. There’s English signage

throughout, and touch screens to view many classic TV ads.

Ginza Sony Park

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 銀座ソニーパーク; www.ginzasonypark.jp; 5-3-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h5am-midnight; bGinza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit B9) F

Up until just after the 2020 Olympics, this corner of the Sukiyabashi crossing

will be an innovative public space. At ground level greenery flourishes as

‘plant hunter’ Seijun Nishihata displays giant specimens from around the world

– all for sale. Below ground are four levels hosting a variety of pop-up events

and places to eat and drink. Head to the information desk (level B1, 10am to

8pm) to find out what’s on and to play with Sony’s super-cute robot dog Aibo.

From autumn 2020, Sony will start building its new showroom here.

Ginza Maison Hermès Le Forum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3569-3300; www.maisonhermes.jp; 8F Maison Hermès, 5-4-1 Ginza, Chūō-

ku; h11am-8pm, until 7pm Sun; bGinza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit B9) F

On the 8th floor of the French luxury goods boutique is a spacious, light-filled

gallery that hosts around three different contemporary art shows per year,

usually showcasing works of French artists. Renzo Piano was the architect of

the skinny building constructed from specially made glass blocks – it looks like

a giant lantern at night.

Shiseido Gallery

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 資生堂ギャラリー; %03-3572-3901; www.shiseidogroup.com/gallery; basement, 8-8-3 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 1 or

3) F

The cosmetics company Shiseido runs its experimental art space out of the

basement of its Shiseido Parlour complex of cafes and restaurants. An ever-

changing selection, particularly of installation pieces, lends itself well to the

gallery’s high ceiling.

Ginza Graphic Gallery

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ギンザ・グラフィック・ギャラリー; %03-3571-5206;

www.dnp.co.jp/gallery; 7-7-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2) F

This gallery features monthly changing exhibits of graphic arts – focusing on

advertising and poster art – from mostly Japanese artists but with the

occasional Western artist. The annual Tokyo Art Directors Conference

exhibition takes place here in July.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

POP CITY AKIHABARA

Akihabara (Akiba to friends) is Tokyo’s otaku (geek) subculture centre, full of shops selling manga

(Japanese comics), anime (Japanese animation), cosplay (‘costume play’ – dressing up as your

favourite character) outfits and accessories, models, figurines….and more. If this is up your alley,

surely Akiba is already on your bucket list. Even if it’s not, the neighbourhood is worth a visit: it’s

equal parts sensory overload and cultural mind-bender.

A must visit is anime and manga mega-store Mandarake Complex ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;

まんだらけコンプレックス; %03-3252-7007; www.mandarake.co.jp; 3-11-12 Soto-Kanda,

Chiyoda-ku; hnoon-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Akihabara, Electric Town exit), with eight storeys

piled high with comic books, action figures, cosplay accessories and cel art just for starters. A fun

pitstop is retro gaming centre Super Potato Retro-kan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スーパーポ

テトレトロ館; %03-5289 9933; www.superpotato.com; 1-11-2 Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-

8pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Akihabara, Electric Town exit).

To get oriented, stop in at Akiba Info ( MAP ; %080-3413-4800; www.akiba-information.jp; 2nd fl, Akihabara UDX Bldg, 4-14-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; W; dJR

Yamanote line to Akihabara, Electric Town exit); staff usually speak English.

NI-Tele Really Big Clock

PUBLIC ART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日テレ大時計; 1-6-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; hoperates at noon, 3pm, 6pm & 8pm, also 10am Sat & Sun; dJR services to Shimbashi, Shiodome exit) F

Studio Ghibli’s animation director Miyazaki Hayao collaborated with sculptor

Kunio Shachimaru on this fantastic, steampunk-style timepiece beside the

entrance to Nippon Television Tower. Four times daily (with an extra morning

show on weekends) various automaton elements spring to life as the clock

strikes the hour and plays a jolly tune.

Roppongi & Around

1 Top Sights

1 Roppongi Hills

B4

1 Sights

2 21_21 Design Sight

B2

3 Maman Spider Sculpture

B4

4 Mohri Garden

B4

5 Mori Art Museum

B4

6 National Art Center Tokyo

A2

7 Suntory Museum of Art

B2

8 Tokyo City View

B4

9 Tokyo Tower

F5

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

10 Tokyo Cook

C3

4 Sleeping

11 Apartment Hotel Mimaru Akasaka

C1

12 Hotel Ōkura

E2

13 Hotel S

A4

14 Kaisu

C1

5 Eating

15 Bricolage Bread & Co

B4

16 Honmura-An

B3

17 Jōmon

C4

18 Kikunoi

C1

Sougo

(see 10)

19 Tofuya-Ukai

F5

6 Drinking & Nightlife

20 Ele Tokyo

C5

21 Gen Yamamoto

C5

22 Rise & Win Brewing Co\. Kamikatz Taproom

F5

23 Two Dogs Taproom

C3

7 Shopping

Souvenir from Tokyo

(see 6)

24 Tokyo Midtown

B2

1 Roppongi & Around

Legendary for its nightlife, Roppongi also offers the chic Roppongi Hills and

Tokyo Midtown complexes where you’ll find several excellent art museums.

Keep your ticket stub for Mori Art Museum, Suntory Museum of Art or the

National Art Center Tokyo, and when you visit one of the other two galleries

you’ll be entitled to a discount on admission. At any of these venues, pick up

the Art Triangle Roppongi walking map, which lists dozens of smaller galleries

in the area.

o Roppongi Hills

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 六本木ヒルズ; %03-6406-6000; www.roppongihills.com; 6-chōme Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11am-11pm; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 1)

Roppongi Hills sets the standard for 21st-century real-estate developments in

Tokyo. The centrepiece of the office, shopping, dining and entertainment

complex is the 54-storey Mori Tower, home to the Mori Art Museum and

theTokyo City View observatory. Scattered around are several public artworks,

such as Louise Bourgeois’ giant, spiny Maman spider sculpture ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ). There’s also an Edo-style strolling garden, Mohri Garden (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 毛利庭園).

Mori Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 森美術館; www.mori.art.museum; 52nd fl, Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1800/600; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, to 5pm Tue, inside Sky

Deck 10am-11pm; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 1)

Atop Mori Tower, the gigantic galleries here have no permanent collection,

instead showcasing thematic programs that continue to live up to the hype

associated with Roppongi Hills. Contemporary exhibitions are beautifully

presented and include superstars of the art world from both Japan and abroad.

Tokyo City View

VIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京シティビュー; %03-6406-6652; www.roppongihills.com; 52nd fl,

Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1800/600; h10am-11pm Mon-

Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 1)

From this 250m-high vantage point, on the 52nd floor of Mori Tower, you can

see 360-degree views of the seemingly never-ending city. Admission is

included in the entry price for Mori Art Museum, though you will pay the same

fee to visit after the museum is closed. Weather permitting, you can also go out

to the external rooftop Sky Deck (additional adult/child ¥500/300; 11am to

8pm) for al fresco views.

National Art Center Tokyo

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立新美術館; %03-5777-8600; www.nact.jp; 7-22-1 Roppongi, Minato-

ku; admission varies; h10am-6pm Wed, Thu & Sun-Mon, to 8pm Fri & Sat; bChiyoda line to Nogizaka,

exit 6)

Designed by Kurokawa Kishō, this architectural beauty has no permanent

collection, but boasts the country’s largest exhibition space for visiting shows,

which have included Renoir and Modigliani. A visit here is recommended to

admire the building’s awesome undulating glass facade, its cafes atop giant

inverted cones and the great gift shop Souvenir from Tokyo.

Suntory Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; サントリー美術館; %03-3479-8600; www.suntory.com/sma; 4th fl, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku; admission varies, child free; h10am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 8pm

Fri & Sat; bŌedo line to Roppongi, exit 8)

Since its original 1961 opening, the Suntory Museum of Art has subscribed to

an underlying philosophy of lifestyle art. Rotating exhibitions focus on the

beauty of useful things: Japanese ceramics, lacquerware, glass, dyeing,

weaving and such. Its current Tokyo Midtown digs, designed by architect

Kuma Kengō, are both understated and breathtaking.

21_21 Design Sight

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21_21デザインサイト; %03-3475-2121; www.2121designsight.jp; Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1100/free; h11am-7pm Wed-Mon; bŌedo line to

Roppongi, exit 8)

An exhibition and discussion space dedicated to all forms of design, the 21_21

Design Sight is a beacon for local art enthusiasts, whether they be designers or

onlookers. The striking concrete and glass building, bursting out of the ground

at sharp angles, was designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Tadao Andō.

Kōrakuen, Akihabara & Kanda

1 Top Sights

1 Koishikawa Kōrakuen

B1

2 National Museum of Modern Art \(MOMAT\)

C4

1 Sights

3 Crafts Gallery

B4

4 Kanda Myōjin

E2

5 TeNQ

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 MariCAR

F2

7 Spa LaQua

B1

8 Super Potato Retro-kan

E2

9 Toyokuni Atelier Gallery

C3

4 Sleeping

10 BnA STUDIO Akihabara

E2

11 Citan

G4

5 Eating

12 Inua

A3

13 Isegen

E3

14 Kagawa Ippuku

E4

15 Kanda Yabu Soba

E3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 Beer-Ma Kanda

E4

3 Entertainment

17 Club Goodman

F3

18 Nippon Budōkan

B4

19 Tokyo Dome

B1

7 Shopping

20 Mandarake Complex

E2

1 Kōrakuen & Kanda

o Koishikawa Kōrakuen

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小石川後楽園; %03-3811-3015; www.tokyo-park.or.jp/teien; 1-6-6 Kōraku,

Bunkyō-ku; adult/child ¥300/free; h9am-5pm; dŌedo line to Iidabashi, exit C3)

Established in the mid-17th century as the property of the Tokugawa clan, this

formal strolling garden incorporates elements of Chinese and Japanese

landscaping. It’s among Tokyo’s most attractive gardens, although nowadays

the shakkei (borrowed scenery) also includes the contemporary skyline of

Tokyo Dome.

Don’t miss the Engetsu-kyō (Full-Moon Bridge), which dates from the early

Edo period (the name will make sense when you see it), and the beautiful

vermilion wooden bridge Tsuten-kyō. The garden is particularly well known

for its plum blossoms in February, irises in June and autumn leaves.

TeNQ

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; テンキュー; %03-3814-0109; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp; 6F Tokyo Dome City, Yellow Bldg, 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; adult/child ¥1800/1200; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat

& Sun; c; dJR Sobu line to Suidōbashi, west exit)

This nifty, interactive museum is devoted to outer-space exploration and

science. Timed entry tickets start you off with one of three impressive high-

resolution videos projected across an 11m-diameter screen that you stand

around. Good English captions throughout make it a fine educational

experience. Set aside a couple of hours to do the museum justice.

Among other fun things to do here include taking part in a Mars research

project being run by Tokyo University (which has a lab on-site) and playing an

astro-ball robot control game.

Kanda Myōjin

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神田明神, Kanda Shrine; %03-3254-0753; www.kandamyoujin.or.jp; 2-16-2

Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; dJR Chūō or Sōbu lines to Ochanomizu, Hijiri-bashi exit) F

Tracing its history back to AD 730, this splendid Shintō shrine boasts

vermilion-lacquered halls surrounding a stately courtyard. Its present location

dates from 1616 and the kami (gods) enshrined here are said to bring luck in

business and in finding a spouse. There are also plenty of anime characters,

since this is Akiba’s local shrine.

Ueno & Yanesen

1 Top Sights

1 Asakura Museum of Sculpture, Taitō

B1

2 Tokyo National Museum

D4

1 Sights

3 Enju-ji

B3

4 Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures

C4

5 Heiseikan

D3

6 Nezu-jinja

A3

7 SCAI the Bathhouse

C3

8 Shinobazu-ike

C5

9 Shitamachi Museum

C6

10 Shitamachi Museum Annex

C3

11 Sudo-kōen

A2

12 Tōyōkan

D4

13 Ueno Tōshō-gū

C4

14 Ueno Zoo

C4

15 Ueno-kōen

C4

16 Yanaka Ginza

B1

17 Yanaka-reien

C2

18 Yūyake Dandan

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

19 Buddha Bellies

B6

20 Kitchen Kujo Tokyo

B4

21 Rokuryu Kōsen

B4

22 Tokyobike Rentals Yanaka

B2

23 Ueno Free Walking Tour

D4

24 Yanaka Free Walking Tour

B1

4 Sleeping

25 Hanare

B2

26 Nohga Hotel

D6

27 Sawanoya Ryokan

A3

5 Eating

28 Hagi Cafe

B2

29 Hantei

B4

30 Innsyoutei

C5

31 Kamachiku

B4

32 Sasa-no-Yuki

D2

33 Shinsuke

B6

34 Tayori

B1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

35 Kayaba Coffee

C3

36 Yanaka Beer Hall

C3

7 Shopping

37 Ameya-yokochō

C6

38 Art Sanctuary Allan West

B3

39 Geidai Art Plaza

C4

40 Yanaka Matsunoya

B1

1 Ueno & Yanesen

Ueno is the cultural heart of Tokyo. Its central park, Ueno-kōen, has the city’s

highest concentration of museums, including the Tokyo National Museum. The

neighbouring areas of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi are collectively known as

Yanesen. It’s a charming part of Tokyo that feels like time stopped several

decades ago.

o Tokyo National Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京国立博物館, see Tokyo National Museum; Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan; %03-3822-1111; www.tnm.jp; 13-9 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥620/free; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm on Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)

If you visit only one museum in Tokyo, make it the Tokyo National Museum.

Here you’ll find the world’s largest collection of Japanese art, including ancient

pottery, Buddhist sculptures, samurai swords, colourful ukiyo-e (woodblock

prints), gorgeous kimonos and much, much more. Visitors with only a couple

of hours to spare should focus on the Honkan (Japanese Gallery), which has a

specially curated selection of artistic highlights on the 2nd floor.

With more time, you can explore the enchanting Gallery of Hōryū-ji

Treasures ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 法隆寺宝物館), which displays masks, scrolls and gilt Buddhas from Hōryū-ji (in Nara Prefecture, dating from 607); the

Tōyōkan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) with its collection of Asian art, including

delicate Chinese ceramics; and the Heiseikan ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 平成館), which houses the Japanese Archaeological Gallery, full of pottery, talismans

and articles of daily life from Japan’s prehistoric periods.

Check whether it’s possible to access the usually off-limits garden, which

includes several vintage teahouses; it opens to the public from mid-March to

mid-April and from late October to early December.

The museum regularly hosts temporary exhibitions (which cost extra); these

can be fantastic, but sometimes lack the English signage found throughout the

rest of the museum.

o Asakura Museum of Sculpture, Taitō

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 朝倉彫塑館; %03-3821-4549; www.taitocity.net/taito/asakura; 7-16-10

Yanaka, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥500/250; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to

Nippori, north exit)

Sculptor Asakura Fumio (artist name Chōso; 1883–1964) designed this

atmospheric house himself. It combined his original Japanese home and garden

with a large studio that incorporated vaulted ceilings, a ‘sunrise room’ and a

rooftop garden with wonderful neighbourhood views. It’s now a reverential

museum with many of the artist’s signature realist works, mostly of people and

cats, on display.

Nezu-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 根津神社; %03-3822-0753; www.nedujinja.or.jp; 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku;

h6am-5pm; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)

Not only is this one of Japan’s oldest shrines, it is also easily the most beautiful

in a district packed with attractive religious buildings. The vermilion-and-gold

structure, which dates from the early 18th century, is one of the city’s

miraculous survivors and is offset by a long corridor of small red torii (gates)

that makes for great photos.

Ueno-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 上野公園; www.ueno-bunka.jp; Uenokōen, Taitō-ku; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen or Shinobazu exit)

Best known for its profusion of cherry trees that burst into blossom in spring

(making this one of Tokyo’s top hanami – blossom-viewing – spots), sprawling

Ueno-kōen is also the location of the city’s highest concentration of museums.

At the southern tip is the large scenic pond, Shinobazu-ike ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;

不忍池), choked with lotus flowers in summer.

Ueno Zoo

ZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 上野動物園, Ueno Dōbutsu-en; %03-3828-5171; www.tokyo-zoo.net; 9-83

Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥600/free; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)

Japan’s oldest zoo, established in 1882, is home to animals from around the

globe, but the biggest attractions are the giant pandas that arrived from China

in 2011 – Rī Rī and Shin Shin. Following several disappointments, the two

finally had a cub, Xiang Xiang, in 2017. There’s also a whole area devoted to

lemurs, which makes sense given Tokyoites’ love of all things cute.

Yanaka Ginza

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 谷中銀座; www.yanakaginza.com; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, north exit) Yanaka Ginza is pure, vintage mid-20th-century Tokyo, a pedestrian street

lined with butcher shops, vegetable vendors and the like. Most Tokyo

neighbourhoods once had stretches like these (until supermarkets took over).

It’s popular with Tokyoites from all over the city, who come to soak up the

nostalgic atmosphere, plus the locals who shop here.

Yanaka-reien

CEMETERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 谷中霊園; %03-3821-4456; www.tokyo-park.or.jp/reien; 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, west exit)

One of Tokyo’s largest graveyards, Yanaka-reien is the final resting place of

more than 7000 souls, many of whom were quite well known in their day. It’s

also where you’ll find the tomb of Yoshinobu Tokugawa (徳川慶喜の墓), the

last shogun. Come spring it is also a popular cherry-blossom-viewing spot.

SCAI the Bathhouse

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スカイザバスハウス; %03-3821-1144; www.scaithebathhouse.com; 6-1-

23 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sat; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1) F

This 200-year-old bathhouse has for several decades been an avant-garde

gallery space, showcasing Japanese and international artists in its austere

vaulted space. Closed between exhibitions.

Shitamachi Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 下町風俗資料館; %03-3823-7451; www.taitocity.net/zaidan/shitamachi; 2-

1 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥300/100; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Shinobazu

exit)

This small museum re-creates life in the plebeian quarters of Tokyo during the

Meiji and Taishō periods (1868–1926), before the city was twice destroyed by

the Great Kantō Earthquake and WWII. There are old tenement houses and

shops that you can enter.

Ueno Tōshō-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 上野東照宮; %03-3822-3455; www.uenotoshogu.com; 9-88 Ueno-kōen,

Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥500/200; h9am-5.30pm Mar-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Feb; dJR lines to Ueno,

Shinobazu exit)

This shrine inside Ueno-kōen was built in honour of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the

warlord who unified Japan. Resplendent in gold leaf and ornate details, it dates

to 1651 (though it has had recent touch-ups). You can get a pretty good look

from outside the gate, if you want to skip the admission fee.

2 City Walk

A Stroll Through Yanesen

START TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM

END SENDAGI STATION

LENGTH 3KM; TWO HOURS

If you have time, visit the 1 Tokyo National Museum before you start exploring Yanaka, with its

temples, galleries and old wooden buildings. If not, simply follow the road northwest out of 2

Ueno-kōen until you hit Kototoi-dōri. At the corner is the 3 Shitamachi Museum Annex ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun), actually a preserved, century-old liquor store. Across the street is 4 Kayaba Coffee, if you need a pick-me-up.

Nearby 5 SCAI the Bathhouse is a classic old public bathhouse turned contemporary art gallery.

Continue down to the studio of painter 6 Allan West. Beside it, on the corner, is an ancient, thick-

trunked 7 Himalayan cedar tree. Around here, you’ll pass many temples, including 8 Enju-ji (

MAP   GOOGLE MAP ), where Nichika-sama, the ‘god of strong legs’, is enshrined; it’s popular with runners. Feel free to stop in any of the temples; just be respectful and keep your voice low.

Double back towards the entrance of 9 Yanaka-reien, one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric and

prestigious cemeteries (also a favourite sunning spot of the neighborhood’s many stray cats). When

you exit the cemetery, continue with the train tracks on your right, climbing until you reach the

bridge, which overlooks the tracks (a favourite destination for trainspotters).

Head left and look for the sign pointing towards the a Asakura Museum of Sculpture, Taitō, the

home studio of an early-20th century sculptor and now an attractive museum. Back on the main

drag, continue down the b Yūyake Dandan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – literally the ‘Sunset Stairs’ –

to the classic mid-20th-century shopping street c Yanaka Ginza. Pick up some snacks from the

vendors here, then hunker down on a milk crate on the side of the road with the locals and wash it

all down with a beer. Walk west and you can pick up the subway at Sendagi Station, after taking a

peek at the gorgeous pocket park d Sudo-kōen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Asakusa & Around

1 Top Sights

1 Sensō-ji

C2

1 Sights

2 Amuse Museum

C2

3 Asakusa-jinja

C2

4 Five-Storey Pagoda

C2

5 Kaminari-mon

C3

6 Tokyo Skytree

G4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Asakusa Free Walking Tour

C3

8 Jakotsu-yu

B3

9 Mokuhankan

B2

10 Wanariya

A1

4 Sleeping

11 Book & Bed Tokyo Asakusa

B3

12 Bunka Hostel Tokyo

B3

13 Hatago

C4

14 Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo

B1

15 Wired Hotel Asakusa

B1

5 Eating

16 Asakusa Imahan

B2

17 Daikokuya

C3

18 Misojyu

B3

19 Onigiri Yadoroku

B1

20 Sometarō

A3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

21 ‘Cuzn Homeground

B1

22 Kamiya Bar

C3

3 Entertainment

23 Oiwake

A1

7 Shopping

24 Bengara

C3

25 Fujiya

C3

26 Kama-asa

A2

8 Information

27 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center

C3

1 Asakusa & Sumida River

Tokyo’s eastern neighbourhoods, on the banks of the Sumida-gawa, have an

old-Tokyo feel, with classic temples and shrines, traditional restaurants and

artisan shops.

o Sensō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浅草寺; %03-3842-0181; www.senso-ji.jp; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h24hr; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1) F

Tokyo’s most visited temple enshrines a golden image of Kannon (the Buddhist

goddess of mercy), which, according to legend, was miraculously pulled out of

the nearby Sumida-gawa by two fishermen in AD 628. The image has

remained on the spot ever since but is never on public display. The present

structure dates from 1958.

Sensō-ji is always busy, particularly on weekends; consider visiting in the

evening to see it with fewer people and the buildings beautifully illuminated.

The main entrance to the temple complex is via the fantastic, red Kaminari-

mon ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 雷門; Thunder Gate) and busy shopping street Nakamise-dōri. Before passing through the gate, look to either side to see statues of Fūjin

(the god of wind) and Raijin (the god of thunder), and under the giant red

lantern to see a beautiful carved dragon.

Stalls along Nakamise-dōri sell everything from tourist trinkets to genuine

Edo-style crafts. At the end of Nakamise-dōri is the temple itself, and to your

left you’ll spot the 55m-high Five-Storey Pagoda ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 五重塔).

The 1973 reconstruction of a pagoda built by Tokugawa Iemitsu was renovated

in 2017.

It’s a mystery as to whether or not the ancient image of Kannon actually

exists, as it’s not on public display. This doesn’t stop a steady stream of

worshippers from visiting. In front of the temple is a large incense cauldron:

the smoke is said to bestow health and you’ll see people wafting it onto their

bodies.

At the eastern edge of the temple complex is Asakusa-jinja ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 浅草神社; h9am-4.30pm), a shrine built in honour of the brothers who discovered the Kannon statue that inspired the construction of Sensō-ji.

(Historically, Japan’s two religions, Buddhism and Shintō, were intertwined

and it was not uncommon for temples to include shrines and vice versa.) The

current building, painted a deep shade of red, dates to 1649 and is a rare

example of early Edo architecture. It’s also the epicentre of one of Tokyo’s

most important festivals, May’s Sanja Matsuri.

Sensō-ji | B-HIDE THE SCENE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Edo-Tokyo Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 江戸東京博物館; %03-3626-9974; www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp; 1-4-1

Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child ¥600/free; h9.30am-5.30pm, to 7.30pm Sat, closed Mon; dJR Sōbu

line to Ryōgoku, west exit)

Tokyo’s history museum documents the city’s transformation from tidal

flatlands to feudal capital to modern metropolis via detailed scale re-creations

of townscapes, villas and tenement homes, plus artefacts such as ukiyo-e and

old maps. Reopened in March 2018 after a renovation, the museum also has

interactive displays, multilingual touch-screen panels and audio guides. Still,

the best way to tour the museum is with one of the gracious English-speaking

volunteer guides, who can really bring the history to life.

ASAKUSA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER

The roof terrace of the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP

; 浅草文化観光センター; %03-3842-5566; www.city.taito.lg.jp; 2-18-9 Kaminari-mon, Taitō-ku;

h9am-8pm; W; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 2) has fantastic views of Tokyo Skytree and the

Nakamise-dōri approach to Sensō-ji. Free guided tours (%03-6280-6710; h10.30am & 1.15pm Sat-

Mon) of Asakusa depart from here. Free events are sometimes held here, including geisha dances

and craft-making demonstrations – check with the centre for the schedule.

Japanese Sword Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 刀剣博物館; %03-6284-1000; www.touken.or.jp; 1-12-9 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child ¥1000/free; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit)

For visitors with a keen interest in Japanese sword-making – an art that

continues to this day – this museum which relocated to a new building in 2018

features exhibitions from contemporary craftspeople. There’s good English

information on the different styles and components (and more English-

language references for sale in the small gift shop).

Amuse Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アミューズミュージアム; %03-5806-1181; www.amusemuseum.com; 2-34-3 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥1080/540; h10am-6pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)

The highlight of this museum is a fascinating collection of Japanese folk

articles, mainly patched clothing and pieces of fabric, known as boro, gathered

by famed ethnologist Tanaka Chūzaburō. Many of the pieces are like fine

works of contemporary art.

On another floor there’s a video tutorial (with English subtitles) on how to

find secret meaning in ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). Don’t miss the roof terrace,

which looks over the Sensō-ji temple complex.

RICKSHAW RIDES

Around the Kaminari-mon entrance to Sensō-ji (as well as elsewhere in Asakusa) you may well get

approached by a scantily clad, strapping young man offering you…a ride in his jinrikisha

(rickshaw). Rides start at ¥4000 per 10 minutes for two people (¥3000 for one person).

Tokyo Skytree

TOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京スカイツリー; %0570-55-0102; www.tokyo-skytree.jp; 1-1-2

Oshiage, Sumida-ku; 350m/450m observation decks ¥2060/3090; h8am-10pm; bHanzōmon line to

Oshiage, Tokyo Skytree exit)

Tokyo Skytree opened in May 2012 as the world’s tallest ‘free-standing tower’

at 634m. Its silvery exterior of steel mesh morphs from a triangle at the base to

a circle at 300m. There are two observation decks, at 350m and 450m. You can

see more of the city during daylight hours – at peak visibility you can see up to

100km away, all the way to Mt Fuji – but it is at night that Tokyo appears truly

beautiful.

Shinjuku

1 Top Sights

1 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

A3

1 Sights

2 Godzilla Head

D1

3 Shinjuku I-Land

B2

4 Shinjuku-gyoen

F4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

5 Thermae-yu

E1

Yamadōgu Rental

(see 21)

4 Sleeping

6 Book and Bed Shinjuku

D1

7 Hotel Century Southern Tower

D4

8 Hotel Gracery Shinjuku

D1

9 Park Hyatt Tokyo

A4

5 Eating

10 Berg

D2

11 Donjaca

F2

12 Kanae

E2

Kozue

(see 9)

13 Nagi

E1

14 Nakajima

E3

15 Omoide-yokochō

D2

16 Takashimaya Restaurant Park

D4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

17 Aiiro Cafe

F2

18 Albatross G

E1

19 Arty Farty

F3

20 Bar Goldfinger

F3

21 BenFiddich

C3

Eagle

(see 20)

22 La Jetée

E1

New York Bar

(see 9)

Ren

(see 24)

23 Zoetrope

C1

3 Entertainment

24 Robot Restaurant

E1

25 Shinjuku Pit Inn

F3

7 Shopping

26 Beams Japan

E3

27 Books Kinokuniya Tokyo

D4

28 Disk Union Shinjuku

E3

29 Isetan

E2

30 NEWoMan

D3

31 Tokyu Hands Shinjuku

D4

8 Information

32 Shinjuku Bus Terminal Tourist Information Center

D3

33 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Tourist Information Center

A3

8 Transport

34 Shinjuku Bus Terminal

D3

35 Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal

D3

1 Shinjuku & Around

To the west of the station is Nishi-Shinjuku, a planned district of soaring

skyscrapers; to the east, the city’s largest entertainment district, a glitter with

coloured LED lights.

o Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

OBSERVATORY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京都庁, Tokyo Tochō; www.metro.tokyo.jp/english/offices; 2-8-1 Nishi-

Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hobservatories 9.30am-11pm; bŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4) F

Tokyo’s city hall – a landmark building designed by Tange Kenzō – has

observatories (202m) atop both the south and north towers of Building 1 (the

views are virtually the same). On a clear day (morning is best), you may catch

a glimpse of Mt Fuji beyond the urban sprawl to the west; after dark, it’s

illuminated buildings all the way to the horizon. Direct-access elevators are on

the ground floor; last entry is at 10.30pm.

Shinjuku-gyoen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新宿御苑; %03-3350-0151; www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen; 11 Naito-chō, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child ¥200/50; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-

gyoenmae, exit 1)

Shinjuku-gyoen was designed as an imperial retreat (completed 1906); since

opening to the public in 1951, it’s become a favourite destination for Tokyoites

seeking a quick escape from the hurly-burly of city life. The spacious

manicured lawns are perfect for picnicking. Don’t miss the greenhouse; the

Taiwanese-style pavilion (Goryō-tei) that overlooks the garden’s central pond;

and the cherry blossoms in spring.

Yayoi Kusama Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 草間弥生美術館; %03-5273-1778; www.yayoikusamamuseum.jp; 07

Benten-chō, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child ¥1000/600; h11am-5.30pm Thu-Sun; bTōzai line to Waseda, exit 1

or Tōei Ōedo line to Ushigome-yanagichō, east exit)

Kusama Yayoi (b 1929) is one of Japan’s most internationally famous

contemporary artists, particularly known for her obsession with dots and

pumpkins. She cut her teeth in New York City’s 1950s avant-garde scene and

remains prolific today, working from a studio near this new museum dedicated

to her work. Kusama is in possession of most of her works, and shows them in

rotating gallery exhibitions. Tickets for one of the limited 90-minute viewing

slots must be purchased in advance online. They become available on the first

of the month at 10am and tend to go fast.

Godzilla Head

STATUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゴジラヘッド; Shinjuku Toho Bldg, 1-19-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; hGodzilla Terrace 6.30am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

Godzilla, a portmanteau of the Japanese words for gorilla (gorira) and whale

(kujira), is king of the kaijū (strange beasts) that ruled Japanese popular cinema

for decades. This giant statue of him looking to take a bit out of a skyscraper

has become a Shinjuku landmark. Every so often he roars to life, with glowing

eyes and smoky breath.

There’s an up-close view (and selfie opportunity) of the statue from the 8th

floor ‘Godzilla Terrace’ attached to the lobby of the Hotel Gracery Shinjuku;

access is limited to hotel guests and customers of the hotel’s cafe (though

we’ve never been stopped…).

DON’T MISS

THE MAGICAL GHIBLI MUSEUM

Master animator Miyazaki Hayao and his Studio Ghibli (pronounced ‘jiburi’) have been

responsible for some of the best-loved films in Japan – and the world. Miyazaki himself designed

Ghibli Museum (ジブリ美術館; www.ghibli-museum.jp; 1-1-83 Shimo-Renjaku, Mitaka-shi; adult ¥1000, child ¥100-700; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; dJR Chūō-Sōbu line to Mitaka, south exit)

and it’s redolent of the dreamy, vaguely steampunk atmosphere that makes his animations so

enchanting.

The building itself looks like an illustration from a European fairy tale. Inside there is an

imagined workshop filled with the kinds of books and artworks that inspired the creator, as well as

vintage machines from animation’s history.

This museum rewards curiosity and exploration: peer through a small window, for example, and

you’ll see little soot sprites (as seen in Spirited Away; 2001); a spiral staircase leads to a

purposefully overgrown rooftop terrace with a 5m tall statue of the Robot Soldier from Laputa

( Castle in the Sky; 1986).

A highlight for children (sorry grown-ups!) is a giant, plush replica of the cat bus from the

classic My Neighbor Totoro (1988) that kids can climb on. There’s also a small theatre where

original animated shorts – which can only be seen here! – are screened (you’ll get a ticket for this

when you enter). The film changes monthly to keep fans coming back.

Tickets can be purchased up to four months in advance from overseas travel agents or up to one

month in advance through the convenience store Lawson’s online ticket portal. Both options are

explained in detail on the website. For July and August visits especially, we recommend buying

tickets as soon as you can from an agent as they will definitely sell out early. Tickets are non-

transferable; you may be asked to show an ID.

The Ghibli Museum is located in the suburbs west of Shinjuku. Take the JR Chūō line from

Shinjuku to Mitaka (20 minutes). From the south exit no 9 bus stop at Mitaka Station, get a shuttle

bus (round trip/one way ¥320/210; every 20 minutes) for the museum.

Shinjuku I-Land

PUBLIC ART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新宿アイランド; 6-5-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bMarunouchi line to Nishi-Shinjuku)

This otherwise ordinary office complex is home to more than a dozen public

artworks, including one of Robert Indiana’s LOVE sculptures (on the southeast

corner) and two Tokyo Brushstroke sculptures by Roy Lichtenstein (at the back,

towards Ōme-kaidō). The open-air courtyard, with stonework by Giulio Paolini

and several reasonably priced restaurants, makes an attractive lunch or coffee

stop.

Harajuku & Around

1 Top Sights

1 Meiji-jingū

A1

2 Nezu Museum

D4

3 Omote-sandō

C3

4 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of Art

B2

5 Yoyogi-kōen

A2

1 Sights

6 Design Festa

B2

7 Dior Omote-sandō

B3

8 Espace Louis Vuitton Tokyo

C3

Louis Vuitton Omote-sandō

(see 8)

9 Meiji-jingū Gyoen

A1

10 Omotesandō Hills

B3

11 Prada Aoyama

D4

12 SunnyHills Minami-Aoyama

D3

13 Takeshita-dōri

B2

14 Tod’s Omote-sandō

C3

15 Tokyu Plaza

B2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

16 Ohara School of Ikebana

C4

4 Sleeping

17 Dormy Inn Premium Shibuya Jingūmae

A3

5 Eating

18 Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

B2

19 Commune 2nd

C3

20 Eatrip

B2

21 Farmer’s Market @UNU

B4

22 Gomaya Kuki

B2

23 Harajuku Gyōza-rō

B3

24 Maisen

C3

25 Mominoki House

C1

26 Narukiyo

B4

Sakura-tei

(see 6)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

27 Aoyama Flower Market Teahouse

C3

28 Koffee Mameya

C2

29 Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience

C4

30 Two Rooms

C4

3 Entertainment

31 Jingū Baseball Stadium

D1

7 Shopping

32 Arts & Science

D4

33 Comme des Garçons

C4

34 Gallery Kawano

C3

35 House @Mikiri Hassin

B3

36 KiddyLand

B3

37 Laforet

B2

1 Harajuku & Aoyama

Harajuku is one of Tokyo’s biggest draws thanks to its grand shrine, Meiji-

jingū. It’s also Tokyo’s real-life catwalk, a worldrenowned shopping

destination where the ultra-chic (and chic in training) come to browse and be

seen. Many boutiques here have been designed by influential architects –

another draw. Neighbouring Aoyama is a shopping and dining district for the

city’s fashionable elite.

Harajuku, and especially the boulevard Omote-sandō, can get extremely

crowded – with foot traffic moving at a slow, platformshoe shuffle. If you want

to seriously shop or zip around to see the museums and architecture, then head

over on a weekday. If you want to get caught up in it all, check out the markets

and people-watch, then come on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon.

o Meiji-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 明治神宮; www.meijijingu.or.jp; 1-1 Yoyogi Kamizono-chō, Shibuya-ku; hdawn-dusk; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit) F

Tokyo’s grandest Shintō shrine is dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and Empress

Shōken, whose reign (1868–1912) coincided with Japan’s transformation from

isolationist, feudal state to modern nation. Constructed in 1920, the shrine was

destroyed in WWII air raids and rebuilt in 1958; however, unlike so many of

Japan’s postwar reconstructions, Meiji-jingū has atmosphere in spades. Note

that the shrine is currently undergoing renovations bit by bit in preparation for

its 100th anniversary, but will remain open.

The main shrine, built of unpainted cypress wood with a copper-plated roof,

is in a wooded grove accessed via a long winding gravel path. At the start of

the path you’ll pass through the first of several towering wooden torii. Just

before the final torii is the temizuya (font), where visitors purify themselves by

pouring water over their hands (purity is a tenet of Shintoism).

To make an offering at the main shrine, toss a ¥5 coin in the box, bow twice,

clap your hands twice and then bow again. Nearby there are kiosks selling ema

(wooden plaques on which prayers are written) and omamori (charms).

The shrine itself occupies only a small fraction of the sprawling forested

grounds, which contain some 120,000 trees collected from all over Japan. Of

this, only the strolling garden Meiji-jingū Gyoen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 明治神宮

御苑, Inner Garden; ¥500; h9am-4.30pm, to 4pm Nov-Feb) is accessible to the public. The

Meiji emperor himself designed the iris garden here to please the empress and

the garden is most impressive when the irises bloom in June.

o Yoyogi-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 代々木公園; www.yoyogipark.info; Yoyogi-kamizono-chō, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

If it’s a sunny and warm weekend afternoon, you can count on there being a

crowd lazing around the large grassy expanse that is Yoyogi-kōen. You’ll

usually find revellers and noisemakers of all stripes, from hula-hoopers to

African drum circles to retro greasers dancing around a boom box. It’s an

excellent place for a picnic and probably the only place in the city where you

can reasonably toss a Frisbee without fear of hitting someone.

o Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浮世絵太田記念美術館; %03-3403-0880; www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp; 1-

10-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; adult ¥700-1000, child free; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; dJR Yamanote

line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

This small museum (where you swap your shoes for slippers) is the best place

in Tokyo to see ukiyo-e. Each month it presents a seasonal, thematic exhibition

(with English curation notes), drawing from the truly impressive collection of

Ōta Seizo, the former head of the Toho Life Insurance Company. Most

exhibitions include a few works by masters such as Hokusai and Hiroshige.

The museum closes the last few days of the month (between exhibitions).

o Nezu Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 根津美術館; %03-3400-2536; www.nezu-muse.or.jp; 6-5-1 Minami-

Aoyama, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1100/free, special exhibitions extra ¥200; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;

bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

Nezu Museum offers a striking blend of old and new: a renowned collection of

Japanese, Chinese and Korean antiquities in a gallery space designed by

contemporary architect Kuma Kengo. Select items from the extensive

collection are displayed in seasonal exhibitions. The English explanations are

usually pretty good. Behind the galleries is a woodsy strolling garden laced

with stone paths and studded with teahouses and sculptures.

Takeshita-dōri

STREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 竹下通り; Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)

This is Tokyo’s famous fashion bazaar. It’s an oddly mixed bag: newer shops

selling trendy, youthful styles alongside stores still invested in the trappings of

decades of subcultures past (plaid and safety pins for the punks; colourful tutus

for the decora; Victorian dresses for the Gothic Lolitas). Be warned: this

pedestrian alley is a pilgrimage site for teens from all over Japan, which means

it can get packed.

ADVANCED PLANNING

A The best workshops and courses are designed for small groups, so sign up in advance (usually

possible online).

A If you want to try go-karting, get an international driving licence in your home country.

A Book tickets for sumo, kabuki and Giants baseball games online to lock in good seats. Tickets usually go on sale one month to two months prior.

A Tickets for the Ghibli Museum go on sale three months in advance; reserve yours asap.

A Other attractions that require advanced reservations include the Imperial Palace, if you want to

tour the grounds.

Design Festa

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; デザインフェスタ; %03-3479-1442; www.designfestagallery.com; 3-20-

2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) F

Design Festa has long been a champion of Tokyo’s DIY art scene and it’s

maze-like building is a Harajuku landmark. Inside there are dozens of small

galleries rented by the day. More often than not, the artists themselves are

hanging around, too.

2 City Walk

Omote-sandō Architecture

START TOKYU PLAZA

END SUNNYHILLS

LENGTH 1.2KM; ONE HOUR

Omote-sandō is like a walk-through showroom featuring the who’s who of contemporary

architecture.

Start at the intersection of Omote-sandō and Meiji-dōri, at 1 Tokyu Plaza, a castle-like structure

built in 2012 and designed by up-and-coming architect Nakamura Hiroshi. The entrance is a

dizzying hall of mirrors and there’s a roof garden (with a Starbucks) on top.

Continue to Tadao Ando’s deceptively deep 2 Omotesandō Hills (2003). This high-end

shopping mall spirals around a sunken central atrium. Ando’s architecture uses materials such as

concrete to create strong geometric shapes, often drawn from Japan’s traditional architecture.

Across the street, the five-storey glass 3 Dior Building (2003), designed by SANAA

(Nishizawa Ryue and Sejima Kazuyo), has a filmy surface that seems to hang like a dress (an effect

achieved with clever lighting and acrylic screens).

A couple of blocks down, Aoki Jun’s 4 Louis Vuitton Building (2002) has offset panels of

tinted glass behind sheets of metal mesh that are meant to evoke a stack of trunks. There’s an art

gallery on the 7th floor.

Climb onto the elevated crosswalk to better admire Itō Tōyō’s construction for 5 Tod’s (2004).

The criss-crossing strips of concrete take their inspiration from the zelkova trees below; they’re

also structural.

You can’t miss the 6 Prada Aoyama Building (2003) with its curvaceous exterior of convex

glass bubbles. Created by Herzog & de Meuron, this is the building that escalated the design race

in the neighbourhood.

Turn the corner to see Kengo Kuma’s design for Taiwanese pineapple cake shop 7 SunnyHills

(2014). Kuma is an architect known for his use of wood and traditional Japanese joinery

techniques, and this building represents his work at its most playful. The 3D-modelled latticework

is supposed to evoke a bamboo basket, but also resembles a cross-hatched pineapple.

Shibuya

1 Top Sights

1 Shibuya Crossing

C3

1 Sights

2 d47 Museum

D3

3 Mag’s Park

C3

4 Myth of Tomorrow

D3

5 Shibuya Center-gai

C3

6 Shibuya Stream

D4

4 Sleeping

7 Hotel Mets Shibuya

D4

8 Millennials

C2

Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu

(see 6)

9 Turntable

A4

5 Eating

10 Ahiru Store

A1

11 Camelback

A1

d47 Shokudō

(see 2)

12 Food Show

C3

13 Gyūkatsu Motomura

D4

14 Katsu Midori

C3

Maru Bengara

(see 6)

15 Matsukiya

B4

16 Pignon

A2

17 Sagatani

B3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

18 Beat Cafe

B3

19 Contact

C3

20 Fuglen Tokyo

A1

21 Karaoke Rainbow

C2

22 Nonbei-yokochō

D3

23 Oath

C4

24 Rhythm Cafe

B2

3 Entertainment

25 Club Quattro

B3

26 WWW

C2

7 Shopping

27 d47 design travel store

D3

28 Mega Donki

B3

29 Shibuya 109

C3

30 Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers

A1

31 Tokyu Hands

C2

32 Tower Records

C2

1 Shibuya

Shibuya, the heart of Tokyo’s youth culture, hits you over the head with its

sheer presence: the continuous flow of people, the glowing video screens and

the tangible buzz.

o Shibuya Crossing

STREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渋谷スクランブル交差点, Shibuya Scramble; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Rumoured to be the busiest intersection in the world (and definitely in Japan),

Shibuya Crossing is like a giant beating heart, sending people in all directions

with every pulsing light change. Nowhere else says ‘Welcome to Tokyo’ better

than this. Hundreds of people – and at peak times upwards of 3000 people –

cross at a time, coming from all directions at once, yet still to dodging each

other with a practised, nonchalant agility.

Mag’s Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-23-10 Jinnan; h11am-11pm), the rooftop of the Shibuya 109-2 department store, has the best views over the neighbourhood’s

famous scramble crossing. It’s screened with plexiglass, so you can still get

good photos, without having to worry about losing anything over the edge).

The intersection is most impressive after dark on a Friday or Saturday night,

when the crowds pouring out of the station are at their thickest and neon-lit by

the signs above. The rhythms here are, however, tied to the train station and

after the last train pulls out for the night, the intersection becomes eerily quiet.

Shibuya Crossing | SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shibuya Center-gai

STREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渋谷センター街, Shibuya Sentā-gai; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Shibuya’s main drag is closed to cars and chock-a-block with fast-food joints

and high-street fashion shops. At night, lit bright as day, with a dozen

competing soundtracks (coming from who knows where), wares spilling onto

the streets and strutting teens, it feels like a block party – or Tokyo’s version of

a classic Asian night market.

d47 Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hikarie8.com; 8th fl, Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, east exit) F

Lifestyle brand D&Department combs the country for the platonic ideals of the

utterly ordinary: the perfect broom, bottle opener or salt shaker (to name a few

examples). See rotating exhibitions of its latest finds from all 47 prefectures at

this one-room museum.

The excellent d47 design travel store is next door.

Myth of Tomorrow

PUBLIC ART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 明日の神話, Asu no Shinwa; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Okamoto Tarō’s mural, Myth of Tomorrow (1967), was commissioned by a

Mexican luxury hotel but went missing two years later. It finally turned up in

2003 and, in 2008, the haunting 30m-long work, which depicts the atomic

bomb exploding over Hiroshima, was installed inside Shibuya Station. It’s on

the 2nd floor, in the corridor leading to the Inokashira line.

Shibuya Stream

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渋谷ストリーム; https://shibuyastream.jp; 3-21-3 Shibuya, Shibuya;

bGinza, Hanzōmon & Fukutoshin lines to Shibuya, exit 16b, dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, new south

exit)

It’s hard to imagine, but Shibuya Crossing actually sits on the confluence of

two rivers: the Shibuya-gawa and the Uda-gawa, which were diverted

underground decades ago. Shibuya Stream, part of Shibuya’s redevelopment, is

a step towards bringing the city’s waterways back. It’s mostly a giant, glass

multipurpose complex, but there’s a lovely stretch of the newly liberated

Shibuya-gawa flanked by terraces and some bars and restaurants.

Ebisu & Meguro

1 Sights

1 Beer Museum Yebisu

E3

2 Institute for Nature Study

F5

3 Meguro-gawa

B3

4 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum

E5

5 TOP Museum

D4

4 Sleeping

6 Mustard Hotel

C1

5 Eating

7 Afuri

D2

8 Delifucious

A2

9 Ebisu-yokochō

D2

10 Ippo

E2

11 Ouca

D2

12 Rangmang Shokudō

C2

13 Ta-im

E2

14 Tonki

D5

15 Yakiniku Champion

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 Bar Trench

C2

17 Circus Tokyo

C1

18 Gem by Moto

E2

19 Onibus Coffee

B3

3 Entertainment

20 Unit

B2

7 Shopping

21 \.\.\.research General Store

A2

22 Daikanyama T-Site

B2

23 Kapital

D3

24 Okura

B2

25 Vase

B3

1 Ebisu & Meguro

Ebisu and Meguro are gateways to largely residential (some artsy, some

upscale, some both) districts, where Tokyo takes on a more human scale.

Beer Museum Yebisu

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; エビスビール記念館; %03-5423-7255;

www.sapporoholdings.jp/english/guide/yebisu; 4-20-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; dJR

Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit) F

Photos, vintage bottles and posters document the rise of Yebisu, and beer in

general, in Japan at this small museum located where the actual Yebisu

brewery stood from the late 19th century until 1988. At the ‘tasting salon’ you

can sample four kinds of Yebisu beer (¥400 each or three smaller glasses for

¥800). It’s behind the Mitsukoshi department store at Yebisu Garden Place.

TOP Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京都写真美術館, Tokyo Photographic Arts Museum; %03-3280-0099;

www.topmuseum.jp; 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro-ku; ¥500-1000; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Thu & Fri; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

Tokyo’s principal photography museum usually holds three different

exhibitions at once, drawing on both its extensive collection of Japanese artists

and images on loan. Shows may include the history of photography,

retrospectives of major artists or surveys of up-and-coming ones.

The museum is at the far end of Yebisu Garden Place, on the right side of the

complex if you’re coming from Ebisu Station. There’s a branch of the excellent

art bookshop Nadiff here, too.

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京都庭園美術館; www.teienart-museum.ne.jp; 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1200/960; h10am-6pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed each month; dJR Yamanote line

to Meguro, east exit)

Although the Teien museum often hosts excellent exhibitions – usually of

decorative arts – its chief appeal lies in the building itself: it’s an art deco

structure, a former princely estate built in 1933, designed by French architect

Henri Rapin, with much of the original interior intact. Tip: budget time to

lounge around on the manicured lawn. A recent renovation saw the addition of

a modern annex designed by artist Sugimoto Hiroshi. Note that the museum is

closed between exhibitions.

Check the website for occasional performing arts events, sometimes held on

the lawn.

Meguro-gawa

RIVER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 目黒川; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro, main exit)

Lined with cherry trees and a walking path, the Meguro-gawa (not so much a

river as a canal) is what gives the neighbourhood Naka-Meguro its unlikely

village vibe. On either side you’ll find boutiques and a handful of eating and

drinking spots.

Institute for Nature Study

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 自然教育園, Shizen Kyōiku-en; %03-3441-7176; www.ins.kahaku.go.jp; 5-21-5 Shirokanedai, Meguro-ku; adult/child ¥310/free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr, to 5pm Tue-Sun

May-Aug, last entry 4pm; dJR Yamanote line to Meguro, east exit)

What would Tokyo look like were it left to its own natural devices? Since 1949

this park, affiliated with the Tokyo National Museum, has let the local flora go

wild. There are wonderful walks through its groves, around ponds and on

boardwalks over marshes. No more than 300 people are allowed in at a time,

which makes for an even more peaceful setting.

Odaiba & Tokyo Bay

1 Top Sights

1 National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation \(Miraikan\)

B3

2 teamLab Borderless

C2

1 Sights

3 Odaiba Kaihin-kōen

B1

4 Toyosu Market

C3

5 Unicorn Gundam

B2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari

B3

7 Tokyo Joypolis

B1

5 Eating

8 Bills

B1

9 Daiwa Sushi

C3

Mosuke Dango

(see 9)

10 Sushi Dai

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

11 Jicoo the Floating Bar

A1

1 Odaiba & Tokyo Bay

This collection of artificial islands on Tokyo Bay is a family-oriented

entertainment district, with interactive museums, shopping malls and theme

parks.

o teamLab Borderless

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6406-3949; https://borderless.teamlab.art; 1-3-8 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child

¥3200/1000; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Tue; c; dYurikamome

line to Aomi)

Digital-art collective teamLab has created 60 artworks for this new museum

that tests the border between art and the viewer: many are interactive. Not sure

how? That’s the point – go up to the artworks, move and touch them (or just

stand still) and see how they react. There is no suggested route; teamLab

Borderless is all about exploration. Buy tickets in advance online.

Making your way from room to room feels like entering a sequence of

discrete worlds – a bit like being in a fantasy role-playing game. Don’t miss the

magical Crystal World and Forest of Lamps; the latter you’ll likely have to

queue for.

On the 2nd floor, the Athletics Forest is a collection of installations

designed with kids in mind (but grown-ups can join in, too). A highlight here is

the chance to colour in a drawing of an animal, insect or flower, and then watch

as it is born into an animated creature.

Take a break at the En Tea House, where you can see digital flowers bloom

inside your cup of tea (¥500).

teamLab Borderless | EXHIBITION VIEW OF MORI BUILDING DIGITAL ART MUSEUM:

TEAMLAB BORDERLESS 2018 ODAIBA, TOKYO, © TEAMLAB. TEAMLAB IS REPRESENTED

BY PACE GALLERY

Toyosu Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 豊洲市場, Toyosu Shijō; www.shijou.metro.tokyo.jp; 6-chōme Toyosu, Kōtō-ku; h5am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed some Wed; dYurikamome line to Shijō-mae)

In 2018, Tokyo’s central wholesale market moved from its iconic Tsukiji

location to this new facility in Toyosu. It’s a structure dreamed up by

bureaucrats; access is limited, but smoother than it was at Tsukiji. The early-

morning tuna auction and other parts of the market are visible from glass-

walled viewing platforms; visitors aren’t allowed on the market floor. The

upper floors have some shops and restaurants, including sushi counters

originally at Tsukiji. Get here early to make the most of your visit.

The market is divided into three blocks (5, 6 and 7), all connected via

promenades that also run directly to the train station, and is well signposted in

English.

The highlight for many visitors is the tuna auction, where the naka-oroshi

(intermediate wholesalers) gamble on bluefin tuna brought in from all over the

world. The auction starts around 5am and finishes by 6.30am. A limited

number of visitors can observe the auction up close from a mezzanine-level

viewing platform that is only partially shielded by glass; for details see the

market website. Otherwise anyone can watch it from the glassed-in corridors

on the 2nd floor of block 7. On your way here from the train station, you’ll

pass a row of restaurants; traditional sweets shop Mosuke Dango is here.

In block 6 is the produce market; auctions take place here at 6.30am and are

also visible from the corridors above. Daiwa Sushi is in this building, on the

ground floor (enter from outside).

The intermediate wholesaler market – where sushi chefs and fishmongers

come to buy from the naka-oroshi – is in building 5. You can peer down into it

from windows on the 3rd floor but the view isn’t great. Also on the 3rd floor is

another collection of restaurants, including Sushi Dai; the 4th floor has shops

selling tea, knives, katsuo-bushi (dried bonito flakes), miso and more. Above is

a grassy rooftop garden.

The metropolitan government decided to move the city’s wholesale market

from Tsukiji to Toyosu in 2012, citing outdated facilities (Tsukiji Market was

built in 1935). But the move, finally completed in October 2018, was a

controversial one, fought by many vendors and citizens. While the new site is

significantly larger than the old and far more contemporary, the Toyosu

building’s position on the former site of a gas refinery was concerning for

some, particularly as the ground water has tested high for toxic chemicals in

the past.

Unicorn Gundam

STATUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ユニコーンガンダム; 1-1-10 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; dYurikamome line to Daiba, south exit) F

This is truly an only-in-Tokyo sight: a 19.7m-tall model of an RX-0 Unicorn

Gundam from the iconic Mobile Suit Gundam anime franchise. It undergoes a

transformation four times a day (at 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm) into ‘destroy

mode’; light shows take place on the half-hour between 7pm and 9.30pm. The

statue is in front of the Diver City shopping mall.

o National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation (Miraikan) MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 未来館; www.miraikan.jst.go.jp; 2-3-6 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥620/210; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; dYurikamome line to Telecom Center, north exit)

Miraikan means ‘hall of the future’, and the hands-on exhibits here present the

science and technology that will possibly shape the years to come. Don’t miss

the demonstrations of humanoid robot ASIMO (11am, 1pm, 2pm and 4pm) and

the lifelike android Otonaroid (demonstration 11.30am; interactive experience

3pm to 5pm). The Gaia dome theatre/planetarium (adult/child ¥300/100) has an

English audio option and is popular; book online one week in advance. A

multilingual smartphone app makes a game out of visiting.

Odaiba Kaihin-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お台場海浜公園, Odaiba Marine Park; www.tptc.co.jp; 1-4-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; h24hr; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)

There are good views of Tokyo from this park’s promenades and elevated

walkways – especially at night when old-fashioned yakatabune (low-slung

wooden pleasure boats), decorated with lanterns, traverse the bay. Note that

swimming here is not permitted.

TOKYO FOR CHILDREN

Odaiba is a popular destination for local families and is full of kid-friendly attractions, such as the

hands-on National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation; the inspiring and immersive

teamLab Borderless; the virtual reality arcade Tokyo Joypolis; and the awesome Unicorn Gundam

model. With the exception of the latter, these are all indoor attractions – perfect for rainy days.

Odaiba’s big malls all have food courts with family-friendly restaurants (including some

international chains).

Tokyo Dome City, in Kōrakuen, with its baseball stadium and science museum is another good bet. And everyone loves the Ghibli Museum.

Get older kids cycling around the city – or even kayaking. Or trying their hand at traditional arts

and crafts, like woodblock printmaking.

Also fun (and good on a rainy day): karaoke.

2 Activities

Amusement Parks

Tokyo Disney Resort

AMUSEMENT PARK

(東京ディズニーリゾート; %domestic calls 0570-00-8632, from overseas +81-45-330-5211;

www.tokyodisneyresort.jp; 1-1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba-ken; 1-day ticket for 1 park adult/child

¥7400/4800, after 6pm ¥4200; hvaries by season; dJR Keiyō line to Maihama, south exit)

Tokyo Disney Resort includes Tokyo Disneyland, modelled after the one in

California, and also Tokyo DisneySea, an original theme park with seven

‘ports’ evoking locales real and imagined (the Mediterranean and ‘Mermaid

Lagoon’, for example). DisneySea targets a more grown-up crowd, but still has

many attractions for kids. Both resorts get extremely crowded, especially on

weekends and during summer holidays; you’ll have to be strategic with your

FastPasses. Book admission tickets online to save time.

Sky Circus

AMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スカイサーカス; %03-3989-3457; www.skycircus.jp; Sunshine 60, 3-1-1

Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; observatory ticket adult/child 1200/600, attractions extra; h10am-10pm;

dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, east exit)

One of Tokyo’s better virtual-reality parks, Sky Circus has an aerial roller-

coaster that snakes between Ikebukuro’s skyscrapers (Swing Coaster; ¥400)

and a cannon attraction that sends you bouncing around a futuristic version of

Tokyo’s more famous attractions (Tokyo Bullet Flight; ¥600). Basic

instructions are given in English. If you are prone to motion sickness you will

feel it, possibly acutely.

You have to first buy a ticket to the 60th-floor observatory – which is nice in

its own right – from the ticket counter in the basement of Sunshine 60 (part of

Sunshine City). You can get your hand stamped for in-and-out entry all day.

Attraction tickets can be bought on the 60th floor. Last ticket sales are at

8.50pm.

To ride the attractions, children must be over seven years of age and taller

than 130cm; grown-ups no bigger than 2m and 100kg.

Tokyo Joypolis

AMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京ジョイポリス; http://tokyo-joypolis.com; 3rd-5th fl, DECKS Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥800/500, all-rides passport ¥4300/3300, passport after 5pm

¥3300/2300; h10am-10pm; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, north exit)

This indoor amusement park is stacked with virtual-reality attractions and thrill

rides, such as the video-enhanced Halfpipe Tokyo; there are rides for little

ones, too. Separate admission and individual ride tickets (¥500 to ¥800) are

available, but if you plan to ride more than a few, the unlimited ‘passport’

makes sense.

Bring your passport for a slight discount on admission.

Onsen

o Rokuryu Kōsen

BATHHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 六龍鉱泉; %03-3821-3826; 3-4-20 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; ¥460; h3.30-11pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2)

Dating from 1931, this gem of a neighbourhood sentō (public bath) has a

beautiful mural of the wooden arched bridge Kintai-kyo in Iwasaki on the

bathhouse wall. The amber-hued water is packed with minerals that are reputed

to be excellent for your skin, if you can stand the water temperature – a

scalding-hot 45°C in the cooler of the two pools!

The bathhouse is located down a small lane next to a shop with a green

awning.

o Spa LaQua

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スパ ラクーア; %03-5800-9999; www.laqua.jp; 5th-9th fl, Tokyo Dome City, 1-1-1 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku; weekday/weekend ¥2850/3174; h11am-9am; bMarunouchi line to

Kōrakuen, exit 2)

One of Tokyo’s few true onsen, this chic spa complex, renovated in 2017, relies

on natural hot-spring water from 1700m below ground. There are indoor and

outdoor baths, saunas and a bunch of add-on options, such as akasuri (Korean-

style whole-body exfoliation). It’s a fascinating introduction to Japanese health

and beauty rituals.

Ōedo Onsen Monogatari

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大江戸温泉物語; %03-5500-1126; www.ooedoonsen.jp; 2-6-3 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥2720/1058, surcharge Sat & Sun ¥220; h11am-9am, last entry 7am; dYurikamome

line to Telecom Center, south exit or Rinkai line to Tokyo Teleport, exit B with free shuttle bus)

Come experience the truly Japanese phenomenon that is an amusement park

centred on bathing. There are multiple tubs to choose from, filled with real hot-

spring water (pumped from 1400m below Tokyo Bay), and a lanternlit re-

creation of an old Tokyo downtown area. Come after 6pm for a ¥540 discount.

Visitors with tattoos will be denied admission.

Jakotsu-yu

BATHHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 蛇骨湯; %03-3841-8645; www.jakotsuyu.co.jp; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥460/180; h1pm-midnight Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)

Unlike most sentō, the tubs here are filled with pure hot-spring water, naturally

the colour of weak tea. Another treat is the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framed

rotemburo (outdoor bath). Jakotsu-yu is a welcoming place; it has English

signage and doesn’t have a policy against tattoos.

Thermae-yu

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; テルマー湯; %03-5285-1726; www.thermae-yu.jp; 1-1-2 Kabukichō,

Shinjuku-ku; weekdays/weekends & holidays ¥2365/2690; h11am-9am; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku,

east exit)

The best (and most literal) example to date that red-light district Kabukichō is

cleaning up its act: this sparkling-clean onsen complex. The tubs, which

include several indoor and outdoor ones (sex-segregated), are filled with

honest-to-goodness natural hot-spring water. There are several saunas,

including a hot-stone sauna ( ganbanyoku; ¥810 extra). Towels included. No

tattoos allowed.

You can stay the night here (sleeping on a reclining armchair) for an extra

¥1840.

Outdoors

Tokyobike Rentals Yanaka

CYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5809-0980; www.tokyobikerentals.com; 4-2-39 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; 1st day

¥3000, additional day ¥1500; h10am-7.30pm Wed-Mon; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, west exit)

Around the corner from its main showroom, the hipster bicycle manufacturer

Tokyobike rents seven- and eight-speed city bikes for the day. Book ahead

online. Helmet and locker rentals (¥500 each) are available too, and there’s a

good shop and pleasant cafe also serving craft beer here.

See its website for an excellent guide to neighbourhood spots.

ZAC

KAYAKING

(%03-6671-0201; www.zacsports.com; adult/child ¥5500/4500; bShinjuku line to Higashi-ōshima, Komatsugawa exit)

Choose either day or night to go on these 1½-hour kayaking tours of the

Kyunaka-gawa (actually a canal) way out east of Ryūgoku. It’s a wonderful

way to get an alternative view of the city, plus some light exercise. If there is

just one person on the tour, add ¥1000 to the pricing.

The website has instructions on how to dress and where to meet for the

tours. Guides speak basic English.

C Courses

o Toyokuni Atelier Gallery

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 豊國アトリエ; %090-4069-8410; www.nekomachi.com; 3-1-13 Kanda-Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku; 1hr class ¥2000; hgallery noon-5pm Tue-Thu & Sat & Sun, classes 1pm, 3pm or

5pm; bShinjuku line to Jimbōchō, exit A1)

Get a taster of sumie, the delicate art of ink painting on washi (Japanese

handmade paper), at this gallery displaying the artworks of master ink painter

Honda Toyokuni. The one-hour class is taught by his English-speaking, affable

son Yuta, and highly recommended for budding artists of all ages. Reservations

are essential.

Classes with 73-year-old Toyokuni cost ¥15,000 and last two hours.

o Tsukiji Soba Academy

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 築地そばアカデミー; http://soba.specialist.co.jp; Hins Minato #004, 3-

18-14 Minato, Chūō-ku; up to 3 people from ¥30,000, per additional person ¥10,000; bYūrakuchō line to

Shintomichō, exit 7)

Genial English-speaking chef Inoue Akila is a master of soba – noodles made

from nutty buckwheat flour. He’s taught chefs who have gone on to win

Michelin stars for their versions of this classic Tokyo dish. Classes are held in a

compact kitchen overlooking the Sumida-gawa.

Additional vegetarian and gluten-free menus available for an extra fee.

o Wanariya

TRADITIONAL CRAFT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 和なり屋; %03-5603-9169; www.wanariya.jp; 1-8-10 Senzoku, Taitō-ku; indigo dyeing/weaving from ¥1920/1980; h10am-7pm irregular holidays; bHibiya line to Iriya, exit 1)

A team of young and friendly Japanese runs this indigodyeing and traditional

hataori (hand-loom-weaving) workshop. In under an hour you can learn to dye

a T-shirt or a tote bag or weave a pair of coasters. It’s a fantastic opportunity to

make your own souvenirs. Book at least three days in advance.

o Mokuhankan

TRADITIONAL CRAFT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 木版館; %070-5011-1418; www.mokuhankan.com; 1-41-8 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; per person ¥2000; h10am-5.30pm Wed-Mon; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 5)

Try your hand at making ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) at this studio run by expat

David Bull. Hour-long ‘print parties’ are great fun and take place daily; sign up

online. There’s a shop here too, where you can buy vintage prints as well as

Bull’s and Jed Henry’s humorous Ukiyo-e Heroes series – contemporary prints

featuring video-game characters in traditional settings.

Buddha Bellies

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080-5001-9395; www.buddhabelliestokyo.jimdo.com; classes ¥5500-10,000; bChiyoda line to Yushima, exit 3)

English-speaking professional sushi chef and sake sommelier Ayuko and her

husband lead small hands-on classes in sushi, bentō (boxed lunch), udon and

wagashi (Japanese sweets) making. Classes are held at Ayuko’s home close to

Yushima Station (she’ll meet you at exit 3) and run usually from 11am, lasting

2½ hours. Book early.

Vegetarian, vegan and halal menus are also available.

Kitchen Kujo Tokyo

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5832-9452; www.kujo.tokyo; 1-2-10 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; classes ¥6000-12,000; hclasses 10.30am or 1.30pm, bar 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2)

The Kobayashi family and their translator and ramen chef Jun offer an

interesting variety of cooking and culture classes at this handy studio devoted

to cooking with organic products. Learn how to make tofu, miso, vegan ramen

and curry rice with guest instructor Curryman (who dresses in a wacky

costume). Also available are calligraphy, tea-ceremony and yoga classes.

Ohara School of Ikebana

IKEBANA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小原流いけばな; %03-5774-5097; www.ohararyu.or.jp; 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; classes ¥4000; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B1)

This well-regarded, modern ikebana school teaches 90-minute introductory

flower-arrangement classes in English every Thursday at 10am and 1pm, and at

10.30am on the first and third Sunday of the month. Sign up online by 3pm the

Tuesday before (the earlier the better, as spaces are limited).

Tokyo Cook

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5414-2727; www.tokyo-cook.com; 3rd fl, Roppongi Green Bldg, 6-1-8

Roppongi, Minato-ku; classes from ¥8640; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 3)

Among the several types of cooking classes in English on offer here are ones

focusing on making vegetarian dishes, the temple food shōjin-ryōri and soba

noodles. Courses are led by professional chefs and are held inside the

restaurant Sougo.

DON’T MISS

GO-KARTING

Experience Tokyo as if in a real-life video game on fun go-karting tours around the city with

MariCAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; マリカー; %080-8899-8899; https://maricar.com; 4-12-9

Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; 1/2/3hr tours ¥5000/7500/10,000; h10am-8pm; bGinza line to

Suehirochō, exit 1), where you can dress up in brightly coloured onesies. The two-hour course will

get you out to Tokyo Skytree and down to Ginza.

Before you start there’s only a short tutorial on how to drive the go-karts, then you’re on the

road with trucks and buses, so absolutely speak up if you’re not comfortable; there’s always an

English-speaking guide and they are experienced at navigating the traffic and at pains to stress

safety. You must have a valid international (or Japanese) driver’s license.

MariCAR also has shops in Shibuya, Asakusa, Shinagawa and Shin-Kiba – each one offering

different driving courses.

T Tours

Free walking tours led by English-speaking volunteer guides take place weekly

around Asakusa, Ueno ( MAP ; %03-6280-6710; www.tokyosgg.jp; 7-47 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku;

h10.30am & 1.30pm Wed, Fri & Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit), Yanaka ( MAP ; %03-6280-6710; www.tokyosgg.jp; 7-8-10 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; h10.30am & 1.30pm Sun; dYamanote line to Nippori, north exit) and the Imperial Palace East Garden ( MAP ; %03-6280-6710; JNTO

Tourist Information Center, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h1pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun; bChiyoda line

to Nijūbashimae, exit 1). No advance reservations are required – just show up

(though places are limited).

o Tokyo Great Cycling Tour

CYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4590-2995; www.tokyocycling.jp; 1-3-2 Shinkawa, Chūō-ku; tours ¥3000-

10,000; bHibiya line to Kayabachō, exit 3)

There’s a fine variety of routes and different themes offered here to suit

everyone from casual pedallers to more serious cyclists. The English-speaking

staff and guides are very friendly and professional. You can also rent bikes

from ¥2500 a day.

The same company also offers excellent kayaking tours (the longest route

takes you on a fascinating 10km circuit including the Sumida, Kanda and

Nihombashi rivers) and running tours around the palace and along the

Sumida-gawa.

Hato Bus Tours

BUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3435-6081; www.hatobus.com; tours ¥1500-12,000; dJR Yamanote line to Hamamatsuchō, south exit)

This long-established bus-tour company offers hour-long, half-day and full-day

bus tours of the city. Shorter tours cruise by the sights in an open-air double-

decker bus; longer ones make stops. Tours leave from Hato Bus terminals in

the annex of the World Trade Centre in Hamamatsuchō, as well as Shinjuku

and from Tokyo train station ( MAP ; per person ¥1800-12,000; dJR lines to Tokyo,

Marunouchi exit).

z Festivals & Events

Tokyo Marathon

SPORTS

(www.marathon.tokyo; hMar)

Tokyo’s biggest running event happens on the first Sunday of March.

Competition for slots is fierce; sign up the summer before.

Kanda Matsuri

CULTURAL

(神田祭; hMay)

Kanda Matsuri, put on by Kanda Myōjin, was historically one of Tokyo’s

most important festivals – and it still puts on a good show, with a parade of

mikoshi (portable shrines) around Kanda and Akihabara. It’s held on the

weekend closest to 15 May on odd-numbered years.

Sanja Matsuri

PARADE

(三社祭; hMay)

Tokyo’s biggest festival is held over the third weekend of May and attracts

about 1.5 million spectators to Asakusa-jinja. The highlight is the rowdy

parade of mikoshi carried by men and women in traditional dress, with the

grandest floats making the rounds on Sunday.

Roppongi Art Night

ART

(www.roppongiartnight.com; hMay)

Held in late May, this weekend-long (literally, as venues stay open all night)

arts event sees large-scale installations and performances taking over the

museums, galleries and streets of Roppongi. The vibe is more party than

highbrow.

Sumida-gawa Fireworks

FIREWORKS

(隅田川花火大会, Sumida-gawa Hanabi Taikai; www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com; hJul)

Held the last Saturday of July, the largest of the summer fireworks shows

sees 20,000 pyrotechnic wonders explode over Asakusa. The show starts

around 7pm, but you’ll have to get there way earlier to get a good spot.

Kōenji Awa Odori

PARADE

(高円寺阿波おどり; www.koenji-awaodori.com; hAug)

The most famous of Tokyo’s awa odori (dance festivals for O-Bon) sees

10,000 participants in traditional costumes dancing their way through the

streets of Kōenji over the last weekend of August.

4 Sleeping

4 Marunouchi & Nihombashi

o Citan

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6661-7559; https://backpackersjapan.co.jp/citan; 15-2 Nihombashi-

Odenmachō, Chūō-ku; dm/tw/d from ¥3000/8400/8500; aW; bShinjuku line to Bakuro-Yokoyama,

exit A1)

The Bakurochō area has exploded with flashpacker hostels in the last few

years – this is one of the biggest and the best. The trendy young staff are

very helpful, and both dorms and private rooms (all share bathrooms) sport

a pared-back contemporary look.

Also here is a spacious and buzzy basement cafe-bar (open 8am to

10.30pm), which serves craft beer and decent food, and hosts occasional

events and DJ nights.

Wise Owl Hostels Tokyo

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5541-2960; www.wiseowlhostels.com; 3-22-9 Hatchōbori, Chūō-ku; dm/d from ¥2400/6000; naW)

This industrial-looking hostel ticks all the boxes, with a superconvenient

location above the subway and a relatively short walk or taxi ride from

Marunouchi and Ginza. A clever configuration of wooden-cubicle bunks

makes up the dorms; private rooms have one bunk bed. There’s friendly

service, a coffee stand in the lobby, a DJ bar in the basement and an

attached izakaya for food.

o Hoshinoya Tokyo

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 星のや東京; %050-3786-1144; www.hoshinoyatokyo.com; 1-9-1

Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku; r incl breakfast from ¥166,000; bMarunouchi line to Ōtemachi, exit A1)

In creating this contemporary ryokan in the heart of Tokyo, Hoshinoya has

barely put a foot wrong, overcoming a location boxed in by office towers.

Staying here is all about insulating yourself from the city in a building that

incorporates timeless artisanship and the best of traditional Japanese design

and service.

o Aman Tokyo

DESIGN HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5224-3333; www.aman.com; 1-5-6 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku; r from

¥120,000; naiWs; bMarunouchi line to Ōtemachi, exit A5)

Overlooking the Imperial Palace from atop Ōtemachi Tower, this

outstanding hotel incorporates natural materials – including dark stone

walls, blonde wood and white washi (Japanese handmade paper) – into its

elegant, minimalist design. Enormous rooms all have baths with stunning

city views – something you also get from the giant stone bath filled with

onsen water in the spa.

4 Ginza & Tsukiji

o Prime Pod Ginza Tokyo

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5550-0147; http://theprimepod.jp; 13th fl, Duplex Tower, 5/13 Bldg, 5-13-19 Ginza, Chūō-ku; capsules from ¥4000; bHibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3)

One of the cheapest places to sleep in chic Ginza is this capsule hotel,

which is suitably contemporary in its stylings. For a bit more headroom

than in your average capsule, request one of the corner pods when you book

(rates are also cheaper online).

There are separate male and female floors. The lobby is on the 13th floor

next to a cafe-bar with great views of the area.

o Park Hotel Tokyo

DESIGN HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6252-1111; www.parkhoteltokyo.com; Shiodome Media Tower, 1-7-1

Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥17,000/20,000, art rooms from ¥20,000/22,400; naiW;

bŌedo line to Shimbashi, exit 7)

Kudos to the Park Hotel for commissioning 31 artists to decorate 31 of its

31st-floor rooms. The results are very impressive with all-Japanese themes

ranging from sumo and Zen to yokai (monsters) and geisha. See the various

themes online and book well in advance for popular rooms such as the

cherry-blossom one.

4 Roppongi & Around

o Kaisu

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5797-7711; www.kaisu.jp; 6-13-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku; dm/r without

bathroom from ¥3900/10,500; naW; bChiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 7)

Occupying a former ryōtei (geisha house), Kaisu is a flashpacker hostel

with mid-century-modern and surfer-chic stylings. Dorms offer wooden

bunks with the gorgeous old building’s exposed beams on show. English-

speaking staff are very friendly and there’s a great cafe-bar (10am to 11pm)

where you can mingle with locals.

o Apartment Hotel Mimaru Akasaka

APARTMENT

¥¥

( MAP ; %03-6807-4344; www.mimaruhotels.com; 7-9-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku; apt from ¥18,000; aW; bChiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 7)

Opened in 2018, Mimaru has beautifully designed rooms with fully

equipped kitchens and proper bathrooms (no pokey unit baths!). Its

apartment studios, some with Japanese tatami (tightly woven floor matting)

areas, sleep up to four people. Online deals via its Facebook page can make

it a great accommodation option, particularly for families or groups.

There are several other branches in the city, including three around Ueno.

o Hotel S

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテル S; %03-5771-2469; www.hr-roppongi.jp; 1-11-6 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; r from ¥16,000, apt per month from ¥216,000; naiW; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 2)

The various styles of room at this boutique property capture the arty design

spirit of Roppongi. Some of the more expensive duplex-type rooms have

Japanese design elements such as tatami (in charcoal) and circular hinoki

(wooden baths). The entry-level rooms are also a cut above the usual.

o Hotel Ōkura

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルオークラ東京; %03-3582-0111; www.okura.com; 2-10-4

Toranomon, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥35,840/36,040; naiWs; bHibiya line to Kamiyachō, exit 4B)

While the beloved original 1962 hotel has been demolished to make way

for a new building (set to open in September 2019), the Ōkura’s elegant

South Wing remains intact – and long may it do so! Rooms are bright, and

large, with tasteful Japanese design touches. The public areas ooze retro

glamour and service is courteous to a fault.

WHERE TO SLEEP: PICKING YOUR TOKYO BASE

Central neigbouhoods like Marunouchi (convenient for shinkansen hub Tokyo Station) and

Ginza are typically pricey: this is where many of Tokyo’s finest luxury hotels can be found.

But increasingly, budget accommodations can be found everywhere (and often just a stop or

two on the subway from a more famous address).

Roppongi and Shibuya, which both have solid midrange options, are good for night owls

(otherwise give them a pass): both are nightlife centres. Roppongi is central and close to many

sights; Shibuya has great transport links. Some cheaper Shibuya options are technically in

nearby Shinsen, but still within walking distance (about 15 minutes) of Shibuya Station.

The busy western hub of Shinjuku is a traveller favourite, thanks to its many rail links and

dining and drinking options. Note that many budget hotels in Shinjuku that target foreign

travellers are in the red-light district, Kabukichō; while it’s highly unlikely you’d encounter

any real danger, some might find it unpleasant to walk past shady characters night after night.

Ikebukuro, another big hub, north of Shinjuku, has good budget options.

Ueno and Yanesen abound with ryokan and good budget options, though these hoods can be

sleepy at night. Asakusa, in the northeastern corner of Tokyo, is backpacker central with the

best selection of hostels; on the downside, staying here can mean long train rides to other parts

of the city.

Marunouchi (Tokyo Station), Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro all have direct access to

Narita Airport on the Narita Express; Ueno has its own direct line to Narita, the Skyliner.

4 Kōrakuen & Kanda

o Unplan Kagurazaka

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6457-5171; www.unplan.jp; 23-1 Tenjinchō, Shinjuku-ku; dm/r

¥3800/16,700; aW; bTōzai line to Kagurazaka, exit 2)

A standout among Tokyo’s new breed of flashpacker digs, Unplan offers

comfy dorms in Scandinavian wood tones. The private rooms are very

pleasant, and a superbly handy addition are the free smartphones for guests

to use. There’s a common room with cooking facilities as well as a pleasant

cafe on the ground floor.

o BnA STUDIO Akihabara

APARTMENT

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5846-8876; www.bna-akihabara.com; 6-3-3 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku;

apt from ¥26,000; aW; bGinza line to Suehirochō, exit 4)

Five different artists and artist groups have brought their creative visions to

the studio apartments here. Designs are influenced by colourful street art

and local culture – we love the minimalist Zen Garden from which you can

gaze on a kare-sansui (dry landscape) on the balcony. All the rooms all

spacious, with enormous bathrooms, fully equipped kitchens and washing

machines.

4 Ueno & Yanesen

Toco

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トコ; %03-6458-1686; http://backpackersjapan.co.jp; 2-13-21 Shitaya,

Taitō-ku; dm from ¥3000; naiW; bHibiya line to Iriya, exit 4)

This is your chance to stay in a beautiful wooden building (which dates to

1920) that has been turned into one of Tokyo’s most attractive hostels.

Dorms with wooden bunks open onto a deck with a view of a traditional

garden. The hostel is behind a trendy bar-lounge (open 7pm to 11.30pm) in

a modern building at the front.

o Hanare

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5834-7301; http://hanare.hagiso.jp; 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s/d incl breakfast from ¥11,505/18,200; bChiyoda line to Sendagi, exit 2)

A project of Tokyo University of the Arts, Hanare offers five immaculate

tatami rooms in an old dormitory house, which has been tastefully upgraded

to retain original features such as wooden beams. There is a shared

bathroom, but you’ll be given tickets to the local sentō (public bath), as the

concept is to use Yanaka as an extension of the guesthouse.

Reception is in the nearby Hagiso building, the same location as Hagi

Cafe where you’ll be served a traditional breakfast.

o Sawanoya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館澤の屋; %03-3822-2251; www.sawanoya.com; 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥5615/10,585; naiW; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)

Sawanoya is a gem in quiet Yanaka, run by a very friendly family and with

all the traditional hospitality you would expect of a ryokan. The shared

cypress and earthenware baths are the perfect balm after a long day (a

couple of slightly more expensive rooms have their own bath, too). The

lobby overflows with information about travel options in Japan.

Bicycles are available for rent, and liondance performances are

occasionally held for guests.

o Nohga Hotel

DESIGN HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5816-0213; www.nohgahotel.com; 2-21-10 Higashi-Ueno, Taitō-ku; r from ¥20,000; dJR lines to Ueno, Asakusa exit)

Opened in November 2018, this super-stylish hotel ups the ante on

midrange digs around Ueno. Fronted by attractive greenery and with a very

pleasant restaurant-lounge area, Nohga’s developers have incorporated

products from local artisans and contemporary brands (such as Tokyobike

for its rental cyles) into the overall design. Rooms are comfortable and

tastefully decorated in soft grey.

4 Asakusa & Ryōgoku

o Andon Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 行燈旅館; %03-3873-8611; www.andon.co.jp; 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi,

Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥6500/7560; naiW; bHibiya line to Minowa, exit 3)

About 2km north of Asakusa, the contemporary Andon Ryokan is

fabulously designed in form and function. It has 20 tiny but immaculate

tatami rooms, bathrooms decorated with specially commissioned manga art,

and a spectacular upper-floor spa with a manga-style mural, which can be

used privately. Toshiko, the friendly owner, collects antiques, which are

displayed around the ryokan.

As of early 2019 Andon also has a new kitchen and cafe space on the

ground floor in which a full program of cultural events are hosted. Bike

rentals and laundry facilities are also available. It’s a five-minute walk from

the subway.

Nui

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ヌイ; %03-6240-9854; https://backpackersjapan.co.jp/nui; 2-14-13

Kuramae, Taitō-ku; dm/tw/d from ¥2800/8000/8500; naiW; bŌedo line to Kuramae, exit A7)

In a former warehouse, this stylish hostel has rooms with high ceilings,

translating to bunks you can comfortably sit up in. There’s also an

enormous shared kitchen and work space. Best of all is the ground-floor

cafe-bar and lounge (open 8am to 1am), with furniture made from salvaged

timber; it’s a popular local hang-out.

Bunka Hostel Tokyo

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5806-3444; www.bunkahostel.jp; 1-13-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; dm/f from

¥3000/16,800; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4)

This is one of the most stylish of the several Tokyo hostels that combine a

cafe or a bar open to the public in the foyer with a hostel above. Bunka

offers capsule-style bunks; roomier versions where you can stand up go for

¥5000 a bed.

The family room sleeping up to four offers great views across the area.

o Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 助六の宿貞千代; %03-3842-6431; www.sadachiyo.co.jp; 2-20-1

Asakusa, Taitō-ku; d with/without half-board from ¥31,600/19,600; naiW; bGinza line to Asakusa,

exit 1)

This superb ryokan virtually transports its guests to old Edo. Gorgeously

maintained tatami rooms are spacious for two people, and all come with

modern, Western-style bathrooms. Splurge on an exquisite meal here, and

make time for the o-furo (traditional Japanese baths), one made of fragrant

Japanese cypress and the other of black granite. Look for the rickshaw

parked outside.

Wired Hotel Asakusa

DESIGN HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5830-7931; www.wiredhotel.com; 2-16-2 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; tw/d from

¥13,000/14,000; naW; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)

This boutique-style hotel is an appealing mix of retro and contemporary

design. Each room is decorated with subtly different decor, but all have

decent-sized bathrooms and beds graced by a gorgeous indigo-dye throw.

Events are sometimes held in the ground-floor cafe-bar.

Hatago

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅籠; %03-6802-7277; www.asakusahotel.org; 2-6-8 Komagata, Taitō-ku; s/tw incl breakfast from ¥7500/11,000; naiW; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 4)

The rooms at this well-run hotel with English-speaking staff are typically

small but come with tatami floors (even though you sleep on beds) and

other Japanese touches. Breakfast is served in the top-floor lounge, with

spectacular views across the Sumida-gawa towards Tokyo Skytree – there’s

also a rooftop terrace.

Rates go up for Saturdays and the day before public holidays.

AIRPORT ACCOMMODATION

For late-night arrivals and early-morning departures, sleeping at the airport is an economical

option.

9 Hours (%0476-33-5109; http://ninehours.co.jp/en/narita; Narita International Airport

Terminal 2; capsule ¥4900; naW) Capsule hotel inside Narita Airport. It’s also possible to stay

for only a few hours (between 9am and 6pm; ¥1500 for the first hour, plus ¥500 per additional

hour) or just use the shower room (24 hours; ¥1000).

Royal Park Hotel the Haneda (ロイヤルパークホテル ザ 羽田; %03-6830-1111; www.the-

royalpark.jp/the/tokyohaneda; Haneda Airport International Terminal; s/d from

¥18,500/24,4100; naW) Attached to Haneda Airport’s international terminal.

4 Shinjuku & Around

9 Hours Shinjuku-North

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5291-7337; https://ninehours.co.jp/en/shinjuku-north; 1-4-15 Hyakunin-

chō, Shinjuku-ku; capsule from ¥4900; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Shin-Ōkubo)

9 Hours calls its capsules ‘pods’ which fits with the space-station sleek

design, hushed vibe and views of the Shinjuku skyline (just one train stop

away). As this is a capsule hotel, floors and facilities are gender segregated.

You can stay for consecutive days but you must be out (with your stuff in

one of the lockers) between 10am and 1pm.

Book and Bed Shinjuku

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6233-9511; www.bookandbedtokyo.com; 8th fl, AMP Kabukichō Bldg,

1-27-5 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; dm from ¥5300, r with shared bathroom ¥12,000; naW; dJR

Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

If bookstores are your happy place you’ll feel right at home at this hostel

where the beds are fitted into bookshelves. The capsule-style bunks have

privacy curtains and there are even ones with double beds (from ¥10,000).

One downside: nonguests can pay to access the lounge during the day (from

1pm to 6pm), which can get crowded. Payment by credit card only.

While it’s a drawback for guests, the open lounge space is great if you

want to rest for a bit – before heading out to Shinjuku’s bars and restaurants

– but don’t want to make the trek back to your own accommodation. It’s

¥540 per hour or ¥1620 for the whole five hours; you can also rent a bunk

(weekdays only and vacancy permitting) for ¥840 per hour for a nap.

Most of the books and magazines are in Japanese, but there are some

good ones in English, including Japanese novels in translation.

Book and Bed also has properties in Ikebukuro ( MAP ; %03-6914-2914; 7th fl,

1-17-7 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; dm from ¥4100; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west

exit) and Asakusa ( MAP ; %03-6231-6893; 2-16-9 Kaminari-mon, Taitō-ku; dm from ¥3800;

naW; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 2).

Kimi Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 貴美旅館; %03-3971-3766; www.kimi-ryokan.jp; 2-36-8 Ikebukuro,

Toshima-ku; s/d from ¥5400/8100; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit)

Kimi Ryokan has been a traveller favourite for decades and it’s easy to see

why: the tatami rooms and shared bathrooms (including a Japanese cypress

bath that can be used privately) are clean and well-kept; the service (in

multiple languages) is gracious and helpful; and there’s a lounge and a

rooftop terrace. Oh, and the eminently reasonable price. Book well in

advance.

Sakura Hotel Ikebukuro

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; サクラホテル池袋; %03-3971-2237; www.sakura-hotel.co.jp; 2-40-7

Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; dm/s/d ¥3300/7000/9300; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro)

This old standby lacks the designer charm of Tokyo’s newer hostels but

makes up for it with its multilingual, four-star-hotel-level front-desk

service. There’s a diverse spread of spartan room arrangements, including

rarein-Japan family rooms with a double bed and bunks. Other perks

include discounted rates for stays of a week or more and cultural activities.

Hotel Gracery Shinjuku

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルグレイスリー新宿; %03-6833-2489;

http://shinjuku.gracery.com; 1-19-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥16,200/22,200; naW; dJR

Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

The big draw of this huge (970 rooms!) hotel is the enormous Godzilla

statue atop it (you, and taxi drivers, will have no trouble finding it). It’s

fairly new and still feels fresh, and the size means you can usually score

good rates (but also that the lobby is routinely crowded). Note that it’s in

Kabukichō, the red-light district.

o Park Hyatt Tokyo

LUXURY HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; パークハイアット東京; %03-5322-1234;

http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com; 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; d from ¥60,000; naiWs; bŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4)

This eyrie atop a Tange Kenzō–designed skyscraper in west Shinjuku looks

no less tasteful and elegant than when it opened more than 20 years ago,

and it remains a popular spot for visiting celebrities. The rooms are on the

42nd through 51st floors, meaning even the entry-level rooms have fantastic

views; west-facing rooms look out towards Mt Fuji.

Hotel Century Southern Tower

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルセンチュリーサザンタワー; %03-5354-0111;

www.southerntower.co.jp; 2-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥16,400/20,520; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit)

This is the only upmarket accommodation in Shinjuku that seems to assume

its guests will actually be getting around by public transit – it’s just steps

from Shinjuku Station’s south exit. The hotel occupies the 20th to 35th

floors, so the rooms (spacious with big beds) have views over Shinjuku. If

you can lock in a good rate, this is a great deal.

4 Harajuku & Aoyama

Dormy Inn Premium Shibuya Jingūmae

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ドーミーインプレミアム渋谷神宮前; %03-5774-5489;

www.hotespa.net/hotels/shibuya; 6-24-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥13,790/18,590; naW; dJR

Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

Dormy is a popular chain of business hotels that offers some perks that

others don’t, like a traditional style communal bath and sauna (in addition

to in-room showers) and bicycle rentals (pending availability). Rooms are

ordinary: typically small with double beds (140cm). There’s a free morning

shuttle service to Shibuya Station.

4 Shibuya

o Mustard Hotel

DESIGN HOTEL, HOSTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; マスタードホテル; %03-6459-2842; www.mustardhotel.com; 1-29

Higashi, Shibuya-ku; dm/s/d with shared bathroom from ¥4000/10,000/15,000, s/d with bathroom

from ¥20,000/25,000; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, new south exit)

Mustard is the most exciting of Shibuya’s new crop of hotels. The glossy

white interior is the work of design firm Tripstar, and there are a variety of

sleeping spaces to accommodate different budgets. The hotel is within

walking distance of Shibuya, Daikanyama and Ebisu (though 10 minutes

from the nearest station, Shibuya). The English-speaking front desk staff

have tips for local hang-outs.

Millennials

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6824-9410; www.themillennials.jp/shibuya; 1-20-13 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; capsule incl breakfast from ¥8000; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

This new Shibuya capsule hotel has cabin-style rooms: singledecker,

divided on the sides by walls, but with curtains for doors; they’re literally

the size of a single bed (put your luggage underneath). It’s located in the

heart of Shibuya, and among the neighbourhood’s cheapest options.

Complimentary breakfast (continental style), happy-hour beer and all-day

coffee sweeten the deal.

Unlike other capsule and cabin-style hotels, the Millennials doesn’t

require you to pack up daily for cleaning purposes. Actually if you want

your bed redone with fresh sheets, you have to request it (¥1000).

Turntable

HOSTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ターンテーブル; %03-3461-7722; www.turntable.jp; 10-3 Shinsen-

chō, Shibuya-ku; d/s/tw from ¥6750/12,000/20,000; naW; dKeio Inokashira line to Shinsen, south

exit)

This stylish, upscale hostel is pricier than average but has more amenities

and services, like fresh towels everyday and sheets changed every other

day. The dorms are comfy and well-designed, and the breakfast is a buffet

of home-style Japanese cooking served in the ground-floor cafe. Shinsen is

the closest station, but you can walk to Shibuya Station in 10 minutes.

Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渋谷ストリームエクセルホテル東急; %03-3406-1090;

www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/stream-e; 3-21-3 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥24,200/34,400; naW; bGinza, Hanzōmon & Fukutoshin lines to Shibuya, exit 16b, dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya,

new south exit)

Tokyu’s new property in the Shibuya Stream complex is going for a

boutique vibe with earthy textiles and mid-century furnishings, but honestly

it could be dressed in potato sacks and we’d still take it: it’s got direct

access to Shibuya Station (via the subway) plus all the easy dining options

at Shibuya Stream.

Hotel Mets Shibuya

BUSINESS HOTEL

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルメッツ渋谷; %03-3409-0011; www.hotelmets.jp/shibuya; 3-29-17 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d incl breakfast from ¥20,700/25,200; naW; dJR Yamanote line to

Shibuya, new south exit)

Hotel Mets is part of Shibuya Station’s quiet south side, with direct access

to the JR lines; the location can be confusing at first, but once you get the

hang of it, it’s convenient. Rooms are modern and comfortable, with the

double beds clocking in at a roomy 160cm. JR Pass holders get a 10%

discount. The free breakfast is good.

The hotel is especially convenient for the Narita Express airport train, as

the platform is very near the south exit.

5 Eating

When it comes to Tokyo superlatives, the city’s food scene tops the list. But

we’re not just talking about the famous restaurants and the celebrity chefs:

what Tokyo excels at is consistency across the board. Wherever you are,

you’re usually within 100m of a good, if not great, restaurant. It’s a scene

that careens nonchalantly between the highs and lows: it’s not unusual for a

top-class sushi restaurant to share the same block as an oil-spattered noodle

joint, and for both to be equally adored. Tokyoites love dining out; join

them, and delight in the sheer variety of tastes and experiences the city has

to offer.

Reservations are expected at high-end places and recommended at

popular midrange places and for groups of five or more.

5 Marunouchi & Nihombashi

o Dhaba India

SOUTH INDIAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ダバ インディア; %03-3272-7160; www.dhabaindia.com; 2-7-9

Yaesu, Chūō-ku; lunch/mains from ¥850/1370; h11.15am-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm & 5-

10pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Kyōbashi, exit 5)

Indian meals in Tokyo don’t come much better than those served at this

long-established restaurant with deep-indigo plaster walls. The food is very

authentic, particularly the curries served with basmati rice, naan or crispy

dosa (giant lentil-flour pancakes). Set lunches are spectacularly good value.

Nihonbashi Dashi Bar Hanare

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本橋だし場はなれ; %03-5205-8704; www.ninben.co.jp/hanare;

1st fl, Coredo Muromachi 2, 2-3-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; set meals ¥1025-1950, dishes

¥650-1300; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A6)

This casual restaurant from longtime producer (300-plus years!) of katsuo-

bushi (dried bonito flakes) Ninben naturally serves dishes that make use of

the umami-rich ingredient. Set meals, with dishes such as hearty miso soups

and dashi takikokomi gohan (rice steamed in stock), are good value, and

healthy to boot.

Meal MUJI Yūrakuchō

DELI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MealMUJI有楽町; %03-5208-8245; http://cafemeal.muji.com/jp; 2nd fl, 3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; meals ¥850-1200; h10am-9pm; v; dJR Yamanote line to

Yūrakuchō, Kyōbashi exit)

Those who subscribe to the Muji lifestyle will be delighted to know that the

‘no name brand’ experience goes beyond neutral-toned notebooks and

linens. Meal MUJI follows the ‘simpler is better’ mantra with fresh deli fare

uncluttered by chemicals and unpronounceable ingredients.

It’s on the 2nd floor of Muji’s flagship store.

Nemuro Hanamaru

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 根室花まる; %03-6269-9026; www.sushi-hanamaru.com; 4th fl,

KITTE, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; sushi per plate ¥140-540; h11am-10pm, until 9pm Sun;

dJR lines to Tokyo, Marunouchi south exit)

The port of Nemuro in northern Hokkaidō is where this popular sushi

operation first started. At this branch, on the 4th floor of the KITTE mall,

it’s a self-serve kaiten-zushi where the vinegared rice bites are delivered by

rotating conveyor belt. The line here can often be very long but it’s worth

the wait for the quality and price.

o Nihonbashi Tamai

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 玉ゐ 本店; %03-3272-3227; www.anago-tamai.com; 2-9-9 Nihombashi,

Chūō-ku; mains from ¥1450; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3.30pm & 4.30-9pm

Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Nihombashi, exit C4)

This Nihombashi stalwart specialises in anago (saltwater conger eel), which

is cheaper and not endangered like its freshwater cousin unagi. The eels are

prepared to perfection here, laid out in lacquerware boxes (a style known as

hakomeshi) and served either grilled or boiled – you can sample both

cooking styles by asking for half and half.

o Kizushi

SUSHI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 喜寿司; %03-3666-1682; 2-7-13 Nihombashi-Ningyōchō, Chūō-ku; course from ¥3500-10,000; h11.45am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat; bHibiya

line to Ningyōchō, exit A3)

While sushi has moved in the direction of faster and fresher, Kizushi, in

business since 1923, is keeping it old school. Third-generation chef Yui

Ryuichi uses traditional techniques, such as marinating the fish in salt or

vinegar, from back when sushi was more about preservation than instant

gratification. The shop is in a lovely old timber-frame house.

Reservations required for dinner and we recommend to choose a course

of ¥5000 or above to truly sample the range of food that is served here.

DON’T MISS

BEST TOKYO RESTAURANTS FOR…

A Top-class sushi: Kyūbey

A A once-in-a-lifetime meal: Inua

A Trend-setting ramen: Mensho Tokyo

A The classic izakaya experience: Shinsuke

A Vegetarians: Ain Soph

5 Ginza & Tsukiji

Ginza is known to have some of the finest restaurants in the country.

Ginza Sato Yosuke

NOODLES

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 銀座 佐藤養助; %03-6215-6211; www.sato-yoske.co.jp/en/shop/ginza;

6-4-17 Ginza, Chūō-ku; noodles from ¥1300; h11.30am-3pm & 5-10pm; bMarunouchi line to

Ginza, exit C2)

A speciality of Akita Prefecture, inaniwa wheat noodles have been made by

7 generations of the Sato family. As you’ll be able to tell from the glossy,

silky textured results they’ve pretty much got it down to perfection. Sample

the noodles in a hot chicken broth or cold dipping sauces such as sesame

and miso or green curry.

Ain Soph

VEGAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6228-4241; www.ain-soph.jp; 4-12-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; mains from

¥1680, bentō boxes & set menus lunch/dinner from ¥2480/3250; h11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon;

bAsakusa or Hibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit A7)

Truly vegan restaurants are few and far between in Tokyo and ones that

make so much effort over their food as Ain Soph are even rarer. Thank

heavens then for this stylish place (bookings are essential for dinner) that

serves delicious bentō-box meals, vegan-cheese fondue, smoothies and

fluffy American-style pancakes.

Ginza is the main branch but check its website for details of other ones in

Shinjuku and Ikebukuro.

Sushikuni

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鮨國; %03-3545-8234; 4-14-15 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; seafood rice bowls from

¥3000; h10am-3pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 1)

Kaisen-don (bowls of rice topped with a variety of raw fish) is a common

dish at Tsukiji’s many seafood restaurants. The toppings of rich, creamy uni

(sea urchin roe) and salty ikura (salmon roe) are generous here and straight

from the market.

o Kyūbey

SUSHI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 久兵衛; %03-3571-6523; www.kyubey.jp; 8-7-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; set meals lunch/dinner from ¥4400/11,000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to

Shimbashi, exit 3)

Since 1935, Kyūbey’s quality and presentation has won it a moneyed and

celebrity clientele. Despite the cachet, this is a relaxed restaurant. The

friendly owner Imada-san speaks excellent English as do some of his team

of talented chefs, who will make and serve your sushi, piece by piece. The

¥8000 lunchtime omakase (chef’s selection) is great value.

Lunch reservations are accepted only for the 11.30am seating; otherwise

you can queue for a spot. For a real treat at dinner, order the kaiseki

(Japanese haute cuisine) menu (¥33,000) served on pottery by famed artisan

Kitaoji Rosanjin. There’s an exhibition of Rosanjin pieces on the

restaurant’s 4th floor.

o Tempura Kondō

TEMPURA

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; てんぷら近藤; %03-5568-0923; 9th fl, Sakaguchi Bldg, 5-5-13 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner course from ¥6500/11,000; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to

Ginza, exit B5)

Nobody in Tokyo does tempura vegetables like chef Kondō Fumio. The

carrots are julienned to a fine floss; the corn is pert, juicy; and the sweet

potato is comfort food at its finest. Courses include seafood, too. Lunch at

noon or 1.30pm; last dinner booking at 8pm. Reserve ahead.

Bird Land

YAKITORI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バードランド; %03-5250-1081; www.ginza-birdland.sakura.ne.jp; 4-2-

15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; dishes ¥500-2000, set meals from ¥6300; h5-9.30pm Tue-Sat; bGinza line to

Ginza, exit C6)

This is as suave as it gets for gourmet grilled chicken. Chefs in whites

behind a U-shaped counter dispense yakitori in all shapes, sizes, colours

and organs – don’t pass up the dainty serves of liver pâté or the tiny cup of

chicken soup. Pair it with wine from the extensive list. Enter beneath Suit

Company. Reservations recommended.

In the same basement corridor is the original branch of Sukiyabashi Jiro

of Jiro Dreams of Sushi fame; it’s almost always fully booked.

5 Roppongi & Around

o Honmura-An

SOBA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本むら庵; %03-5772-6657; www.honmuraantokyo.com; 7-14-18

Roppongi, Minato-ku; noodles from ¥900, set meals lunch/dinner ¥1600/7400; hnoon-2.30pm &

5.30-10pm Tue-Sun, closed 1st & 3rd Tue of month; W; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 4)

This fabled soba shop, once located in Manhattan, now serves its handmade

buckwheat noodles at this rustically contemporary noodle shop on a

Roppongi side street. The noodles’ delicate flavour is best appreciated when

served on a bamboo mat, with tempura or with dainty slices of kamo (duck).

o Sougo

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宗胡; %03-5414-1133; www.sougo.tokyo; 3rd fl, Roppongi Green Bldg, 6-1-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; set meals lunch/dinner from ¥1500/6500; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-

Sat; v; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 3)

Sit at the long counter beside the open kitchen or in booths and watch the

expert chefs prepare delicious and beautifully presented shōjin-ryōri

(mainly vegetarian cuisine as served at Buddhist temples – some dishes use

dashi stock, which contains fish). Lunch is a bargain. Reserve at least one

day in advance for a vegan meal (lunch/dinner ¥7000/10,000).

Bricolage Bread & Co

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP ; %03-6804-3350; www.bricolagebread.com; 6-15-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; mains ¥900-1600; h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; bHibya line to Roppongi, exit 1)

A collaboration between coffee shop Fuglen, Michelin-starred restaurant

L’effervescence and Osaka-based bakery Le Sucré Coeur, this appealing

spot is decorated like a chic country farmhouse, with an enormous flower

display on its central table. Enjoy single-origin Aeropress coffee along with

sweet and savoury tartines on slices of delicious sourdough bread. The

perfect spot for breakfast or lunch.

Jōmon

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジョウモン; %03-3405-2585; www.teyandei.com; 5-9-17 Roppongi,

Minato-ku; skewers ¥250-500, dishes from ¥580; h5.30-11.45pm Sun-Thu, until 5am Fri & Sat; v;

bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 3)

This cosy kitchen has bar seating, rows of ornate shochu (liquor) jugs lining

the wall and hundreds of freshly prepared skewers splayed in front of the

patrons – don’t miss the heavenly zabuton beef stick. Jōmon is almost

directly across from the Family Mart –look for the name in Japanese on the

door. Cover charge ¥300 per person.

o Kikunoi

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 菊乃井; %03-3568-6055; www.kikunoi.jp; 6-13-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku;

lunch/dinner course from ¥11,900/16,000; hnoon-12.30pm Tue-Sat, 5-7.30pm Mon-Sat; bChiyoda

line to Akasaka, exit 7)

Exquisitely prepared seasonal dishes are as beautiful as they are delicious at

this Tokyo outpost of one of Kyoto’s most acclaimed kaiseki (Japanese

haute cuisine) restaurants. Kikunoi’s third-generation chef, Murata

Yoshihiro, has written a book on kaiseki (translated into English) that the

staff helpfully use to explain the dishes you are served.

Reservations are necessary. There are two seatings at lunch (noon or

12.30pm) and last sitting in the evening is 7.30pm.

o Tofuya-Ukai

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とうふ屋うかい; %03-3436-1028; www.ukai.co.jp/english/shiba; 4-4-

13 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; set meals lunch/dinner from ¥5940/10,800; h11.45am-3pm & 5-7.30pm

Mon-Fri, 11am-7.30pm Sat & Sun; v; bŌedo line to Akabanebashi, exit 8)

One of Tokyo’s most gracious restaurants is located in a former sake

brewery (moved from northern Japan), with an exquisite traditional garden

in the shadow of Tokyo Tower ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 東京タワー;

www.tokyotower.co.jp/en.html; 4-2-8 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; adult/child/student main deck

¥900/400/500, incl special deck ¥2800/1200/1800; hobservation deck 9am-10.30pm). Seasonal

preparations of tofu and accompanying dishes are served in the refined

kaiseki style. Make reservations well in advance. Vegetarians should advise

staff when they book, and last orders for weekday lunch is 3pm, for dinner

7.30pm.

FOOD ON THE GO

Heading off on the shinkansen? The basement of department store Daimaru ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 大丸; %03-3212-8011; www.daimaru.co.jp/tokyo; 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-8pm, restaurants 11am-11pm; dJR lines to Tokyo, Yaesu exit), on the

eastern Yaesu side of Tokyo Station, is the best place to pick up bentō (boxed meals) for the

journey.

For bus trips departing from Shinjuku Bus Terminal or before catching the Narita Express,

there are a number of good takeaway vendors inside Shinjuku Station, just before the New

South exit ticket gates.

5 Kōrakuen & Kanda

o Kagawa Ippuku

UDON

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 香川 一福 神田店; %03-557 3644; www.udon-ippuku-kanda.com; 1st

fl, Tokyo Royal Plaza,1-18-11 Uchikanda, Chiyoda-ku; udon ¥430-820; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, also

closed 1st Mon of month; dYamanote line to Kanda, west exit)

Proof you don’t need to shell out a small fortune to eat well in Tokyo is this

humble restaurant specialising in Sanuki-udon, wheat noodles from Kagawa

in Shikoku. Pay at the vending machine; you’ll be handed an English menu

to help with the options, which include the amount of noodles you wish and

the toppings. The curry noodles are excellent.

Mensho Tokyo

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3830-0842; http://menyashono.com/tokyo; 1-15-9 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku; noodles from ¥750; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm Wed-Mon; bNamboku line to Kōrakuen, exits 5 & 6)

The speciality of this branch of the innovative ramen chain is noodles

prepared with lamb – the stock is prepared with lamb and pork bones and

the bowl topped with lamb chāshū. For a real treat, opt for the lamb soba

(¥900) – dry noodles that you mix in the bowl with spicy minced lamb and

other condiments.

If you like Mensho’s style, be sure to check its branch near Gokokuji ( MAP ;

1-17-16 Otowa, Bunkyō-ku; noodles from ¥1000; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm Wed-Sun; bYūrakuchō line

to Gokokuji, exit 6), which serves delicate seafood ramen.

Kanda Yabu Soba

SOBA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神田やぶそば; %03-3251-0287; www.yabusoba.net; 2-10 Kanda-Awajichō, Chiyoda-ku; noodles ¥670-1910; h11.30am-8.30pm Thu-Tue; bMarunouchi line to

Awajichō, exit A3)

Totally rebuilt following a fire in 2013, this is one of Tokyo’s most

venerable buckwheat noodle shops, in business since 1880. Come here for

classic handmade noodles and accompaniments such as shrimp tempura

(ten-seiro soba) or slices of duck (kamo-nanban soba).

o Isegen

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いせ源; %03-3251-1229; www.isegen.com; 1-11-1 Kanda-Sudachō, Chiyoda-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1000/3500; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm, closed Sat & Sun Apr-Oct;

bMarunouchi line to Awajichō, exit A3)

This illustrious fish restaurant, in business since the 1830s, operates out of a

handsome 1930 wooden building. The speciality is ankō-nabe (monkfish

stew; ¥3500 per person, minimum order for two only in the evening),

served in a splendid communal tatami room. Get a side of kimozashi

(monkfish liver; ¥1500) – a prized delicacy – served pâté-style.

Lunchtime options include yanagawanabe (loach in rich egg and dashi

stock; ¥1800).

o Inua

GASTRONOMY

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6683-7570; https://inua.jp; 2 -13-12 Fujimi, Chiyoda-ku; set menu

¥29,000; h5-8.45pm Tue-Sat; dJR Sobu line to Iidabashi, west exit)

Helmed by Noma-alumnus Thomas Frebel and a crack team of young chefs

and front-of-house staff, Inua was Tokyo’s most feted restaurant opening of

2018. With its focus on sourcing amazing local produce – be it prized enoki

mushrooms from Hokkaidō, wild pepper from Okinawa or bee larva from

Nagano – the 15-course set menu is a gourmet delight.

Complementing the creative food is Inua’s relaxed and spacious Scandi-

meets-Nippon design, and superb service. Booking well ahead is advised

and vegetarian or vegan menus can be arranged.

Note, 10% service and 8% tax is added to the bill.

5 Ueno & Yanesen

o Innsyoutei

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 韻松亭; %03-3821-8126; www.innsyoutei.jp; 4-59 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1680/5500; hrestaurant 11am-3pm & 5-9.30pm, tearoom 3am-5pm; dJR lines to

Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)

In a gorgeous wooden building dating to 1875, Innsyoutei (pronounced

‘inshotei’ and meaning ‘rhyme of the pine cottage’) has long been a

favourite spot for fancy kaiseki-style meals while visiting Ueno-kōen.

Without a booking (essential for dinner) you’ll have a long wait but it’s

worth it. Lunchtime bentō offer beautifully presented morsels and are great

value.

Between lunch and dinner the attached teahouse serves matcha and

traditional desserts from ¥600.

o Kamachiku

UDON

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 釜竹; %03-5815-4675; www.kamachiku.com; 2-14-18 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; noodles from ¥850, small dishes ¥350-950; h11.30am-2pm Tue-Sun, 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat; bChiyoda

line to Nezu, exit 1)

Freshly made udon are the speciality at this popular restaurant, in a

beautifully restored brick warehouse from 1910 that’s incorporated into a

building designed by Kuma Kengo. In addition to noodles, the menu

includes a good selection of sake and lots of small dishes (such as grilled

fish, veggies and a delicious Japanese-style omelette).

Tayori

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5834-7026; www.tayori-osozai.jp; 3-12-4 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; set meals

¥1000; h11.30am-8pm Wed-Mon; W; dYamanote line to Nippori, Yanaka exit)

Tucked down an alley off Yanaka Ginza is this design-savvy deli and cafe

that subscribes to the farm-to-table ethos by telling customers all about its

ingredients’ provenance. The set meals are excellent value and the cool,

artisan atmosphere makes it a prime spot to revive while you explore the

area.

Call ahead or check its website for the weekly day off which changes

occasionally.

Hagi Cafe

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ハギカフェ; %03-5832-9808; www.hagiso.jp; 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; mains ¥850-1445; h8-10.30am & noon-9pm; bChiyoda line to Sendagi, exit 2)

Part of the gallery and event space Hagiso, run by students from Tokyo

University of the Arts (Geidai), this is a good all-rounder for meals, drinks

and sweets in the heart of Yanaka. Its Japanese-style breakfast is a great

deal at ¥325; later in the day there’s curry, pasta, cakes and sundaes. Expect

to wait on weekends as it’s popular.

o Hantei

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; はん亭; %03-3287-9000; www.hantei.co.jp; 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku;

lunch/dinner from ¥3200/3000; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2)

Housed in a beautifully maintained, century-old traditional wooden

building, Hantei is a local landmark. Delectable skewers of seasonal

kushiage (fried meat, fish and vegetables) are served with small, refreshing

side dishes. Lunch includes eight or 12 sticks and dinner starts with six,

after which you can order additional rounds (three/six skewers ¥800/1600).

Sasa-no-Yuki

TOFU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 笹乃雪; %03-3873-1145; www.sasanoyuki.com; 2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku; dishes ¥400-700, lunch/dinner course from ¥2400/5600; h11.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sun; v; dJR

Yamanote line to Uguisudani, north exit) F

Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the Edo period and continues to serve its

signature dishes with tofu made fresh every morning using water from the

shop’s own well. Some treats to expect: ankake-dofu (tofu in a thick, sweet

sauce) and goma-dofu (sesame tofu). Vegetarians should not assume

everything is purely veggie – ask before ordering. There is bamboo out the

front.

The best-value lunch set (¥2400) is served from 11.30am to 2pm Tuesday

to Friday.

Shinsuke

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; シンスケ; %03-3832-0469; 3-31-5 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; dishes ¥500-2500, cover charge ¥300; h5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat; bChiyoda line to Yushima, exit 3)

In business since 1925, Shinsuke has honed the concept of an ideal izakaya

to perfection: long cedar counter, ‘master’ in happi (traditional short coat)

and hachimaki (traditional headband), and smooth-as-silk daiginjō

(premium-grade sake). The menu, updated monthly, includes house

specialities (such as kitsune raclette – deep-fried tofu stuffed with raclette

cheese) and seasonal dishes; note portions are small. Reservations

recommended.

Also, unlike other storied izakaya that can be intimidating to foreigners,

the staff here are friendly and go out of their way to explain the menu in

English.

DON’T MISS

YOKOCHŌ: TOKYO’S EATING & DRINKING ALLEYS

Tokyo has (yet!) to completely erase all traces of an older city, the one of narrow alleyways

and wooden buildings. Some of clusters of alleys – yokochō (literally ‘side town’) – harbour

tiny restaurants and bars, and spending an evening in one is a must-do local experience. Two

classic examples include:

Omoide-yokochō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 思い出横丁; Nishi-Shinjuku 1-chōme, Shinjuku-ku; skewers from ¥150; hvaries by shop; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)

Literally ‘Memory Lane’ (and less politely known as Shonben-yokochō, or ‘Piss Alley’), this

Shinjuku landmark started as a post-war black market and somehow managed to stick around.

There are dozens of small restaurants, mostly serving yakitori (chicken, and other meats or

vegetables, grilled on skewers), packed into the alley here; several have English menus.

Nonbei-yokochō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; のんべえ横丁; www.nonbei.tokyo; Shibuya 1-chōme, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Shibuya’s ‘Drunkard’s

Alley’ in the shadow of the elevated JR tracks. Note that some of the bars have cover charges

(usually ¥500 to ¥1000). Tight (タイト; 2nd fl, 1-25-10 Shibuya; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat) is one

that doesn’t.

5 Asakusa & Ryōgoku

For more dining options east of the Sumidagawa check www.oishii-

sumida.tokyo.

o Misojyu

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5830-3101; www.misojyu.jp; 1-7-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; miso soup ¥780, set menu from ¥1280; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4)

The Japanese meal staples of rice, in the form of onigiri (rice balls), and

miso soup, are given a stylish update at Misojyu. All ingredients are organic

and recipes range from traditional to contemporary, such as miso soup with

beef and tomato and brown rice onigiri covered in tea leaves. A limited

breakfast menu is served until 11am.

Onigiri Yadoroku

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おにぎり 浅草 宿六; %03-3874-1615; www.onigiriyadoroku.com; 3-

9-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; set lunch 2/3 onigiri from ¥690/930, onigiri ¥280-690; h11.30am-5pm Mon-

Sat, 6pm-2am Thu-Tue; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 1)

Onigiri (rice balls), wrapped in crispy sheets of nori (seaweed), are a great

Japanese culinary invention. Try them freshly made at Tokyo’s oldest

onigiri shop, which feels more like a classy sushi counter. The set lunches

are a great deal; at night there’s a large range of flavours to choose from,

along with alcohol.

Hosokawa

SOBA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ほそ川; %03-3626-1125; www.edosoba-hosokawa.jp; 1-6-5 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku; soba ¥1080-2650; h11.45am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun, closed 3rd Tue of the

month; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, east exit)

Chef Hosokawa Takashi grinds buckwheat fresh daily for the soba he

kneads and cuts by hand. Get them in hot broth (kake-soba) or at room

temperature on a bamboo tray (seiro) – and definitely with a side of crisp,

seasonal tempura. With ochre walls and wildflowers on the table,

Hosokawa brings a touch of country to the city.

No reservations and no small children.

Sometarō

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 染太郎; %03-3844-9502; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; mains from

¥700; hnoon-10pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)

Sometarō is a fun and funky place to try okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese-

style pancakes filled with meat, seafood and vegetables that you cook

yourself). This historic, vine-covered house is a friendly spot where the

menu includes a how-to guide for novice cooks. Tatami seating; cash only.

Daikokuya

TEMPURA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大黒家; %03-3844-1111; www.tempura.co.jp; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; meals ¥1550-2100; h11am-8.30pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)

This is the place to get old-fashioned tempura fried in pure sesame oil, an

Asakusa speciality. It’s in a white building with a tile roof. If there’s a

queue (and there often is), you can try your luck at the annex one block

over – it also serves set-course meals.

o Kappō Yoshiba

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 割烹吉葉; %03-3623-4480; www.kapou-yoshiba.jp; 2-14-5 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; dishes ¥650-7800; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bŌedo line to Ryōgoku, exit 1)

The former Miyagino sumo stable is the location for this one-of-a-kind

restaurant that has preserved the dōyō (practice ring) as its centrepiece.

Playing up to its sumo roots, you can order the protein-packed stew chanko-

nabe (for two people from ¥5200), but Yoshiba’s real strength is its sushi,

freshly prepared in jumbo portions.

The lunch nigiri set menu (¥1000) is a bargain, but you’ll probably want

to come in the evening when the dōyō becomes a stage for traditional live-

music performances.

At 7.30pm on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, former

wrestlers sing sumo jinku (a type of folk song) for 15 minutes, while at 7pm

on Tuesday and Thursday the female duo Kitamura Shimai plays a short

concert on shamisen (three-stringed instruments resembling a lute or banjo).

This is followed at 8pm by a pianist tinkling the ivories on the grand piano

by the sushi counter (and stained-glass window of a sumo wrestler!).

o Asakusa Imahan

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浅草今半; %03-3841-1114; www.asakusaimahan.co.jp; 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥2000/8000; h11.30am-9.30pm; dTsukuba Express to

Asakusa, exit 4)

For a meal to remember, swing by this famous beef restaurant, in business

since 1895. Choose between courses of sukiyaki and shabu-shabu; prices

rise according to the grade of meat. For diners on a budget, Imahan sells 20

servings of a gyudon (rice topped with beef; ¥1500) per day.

5 Shinjuku & Around

Should you want to grab a quick bite to eat – without having to brave the

crowded streets – head to one of the food courts on the top floors of the

shopping centres in and around Shinjuku Station. Takashimaya

Restaurant Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レストランズパーク; www.restaurants-

park.jp; 12-14 fl, Takashimaya Times Sq; h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south

exit) has the nicest options.

Ohitotsuzen Tanbo

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おひつ膳田んぼ; %03-3320-0727; www.tanbo.co.jp; 1-41-9 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥1550-2350; h11am-10pm; dJR Yamanote line to Yoyogi, west exit) F

The speciality here is the least glamorous part of the meal – the rice, which

comes from an organic farm the restaurant manages in Niigata Prefecture.

It’s served as ochazuke, a classic comfort food of rice topped with meat or

fish over which hot tea is poured. English instructions explain how to eat it.

Nagi

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 凪; %03-3205-1925; www.n-nagi.com; 2nd fl, Golden Gai G2, 1-1-10

Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; ramen from ¥890; h24hr; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, has done well and now has

branches around the city. This tiny shop, one of the originals, up a

treacherous stairway in Golden Gai, is still our favourite…we’re clearly not

alone as there’s often a line. The house speciality is niboshi ramen (egg

noodles in a broth flavoured with dried sardines). Look for the sign with a

red circle.

Nakajima

KAISEKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中嶋; %03-3356-4534; www.shinjyuku-nakajima.com; basement fl, 3-32-5

Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥800/8640; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat;

bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit A1)

In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine)

dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)

for one-tenth the price; in the hands of Nakajima’s chefs, they’re divine.

The line for lunch starts to form shortly before the restaurant opens at

11.30am. Look for the white sign at the top of the stairs.

Berg

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ベルグ; www.berg.jp; basement fl, Lumine Est, 3-38-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; morning set ¥410; h7am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

Wedged inside the fashion-forward Lumine Est department store (itself

inside the frenetic Shinjuku Station), Berg stands still. The cramped, cult-

status coffee shop still charges just ¥216 for a cup (and ¥324 for a beer).

The highly recommended ‘morning set’ (mōningu setto), served until noon,

includes coffee, hard-boiled egg, potato salad and toast. The front is

covered in picture menus.

Exiting the east exit ticket gates in JR Shinjuku Station, look for the

‘Food Pocket’ sign off to the left.

o Kanae

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鼎; %050-3467-1376; basement fl, 3-12-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; cover charge ¥540; dishes ¥660-1980; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 4.30-11pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to

Shinjuku, east exit)

Kanae is a perfect example of one of Shinjuku-sanchōme’s excellent and all

but undiscoverable izakaya: delicious sashimi, seasonal dishes and simple

staples (the potato salad is famous) in the basement of an unremarkable

building (there’s a white sign with a sake barrel out front). Seating is at the

counter or at a handful of tables; reservations recommended.

Donjaca

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 呑者家; %03-3341-2497; 3-9-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; cover charge

¥300, dishes ¥350-900; h5pm-7am; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C6)

Donjaca, in business since 1979, has many telltale signs of a classic Shōwa-

era (1926–89) izakaya: red vinyl stools, lantern lighting and hand-written

menus covering the wall. The food is equal parts classic (grilled fish and

fried chicken) and inventive: a house speciality is natto gyoza (dumplings

stuffed with fermented soybeans). Excellent sake, too.

Warning: Donjaca can get smokey. If the main shop is full, staff will

likely direct you around the corner to the larger annex.

o Kozue

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 梢; %03-5323-3460; www.hyatt.com; 40th fl, Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2

Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; lunch set menu ¥2480-10,800, dinner set menu ¥14,040-24,850;

h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm; bŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4)

It’s hard to beat Kozue’s combination of exquisite seasonal Japanese

cuisine, artisan crockery and distractingly good views over Shinjuku. As the

kimono-clad staff speak English and the restaurant caters well to dietary

restrictions and personal preferences, this is a good splurge spot for diners

who don’t want to give up complete control. Reservations essential for

dinner and recommended for lunch; 15% service charge.

DON’T MISS

TOKYO’S WEEKEND MARKETS

Tokyo’s best farmer’s market, Farmer’s Market @UNU ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;

www.farmersmarkets.jp; 5-53-7 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2) S, sets up every weekend on the plaza in front of the United Nations

University on Aoyama-dōri. There are always at least half a dozen food trucks here and the

market is as much a social event as a shopping stop. Events pop up here too, including the

monthly hipster flea market Raw Tokyo (www.rawtokyo.jp). Check the website for other events.

Another great market is the Ōedo Antique Market (www.antique-market.jp), which draws hundreds of dealers in retro and antique Japanese goods, from old ceramics and kimono to

kitsch plastic figurines and vintage movie posters. It’s held in the courtyard of Tokyo

International Forum, usually on the first and third Sunday of every month (check the website

before you head out), from 9am to 4pm.

5 Harajuku & Aoyama

o Maisen

TONKATSU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; まい泉; %0120-428-485; www.maisen.com; 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥990/1580; h11am-10:45pm; c; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)

Maison is famous for its tonkatsu (breaded, deep-fried pork cutlets) and its

setting (an old public bathhouse). There are different grades of pork on the

menu, including prized kurobuta (black pig), but even the cheapest is melt-

in-your-mouth divine; the very reasonable lunch set is served until 4pm.

A takeaway window (10am to 7pm) serves delicious tonkatsu sando

(sandwich).

Harajuku Gyōza-rō

DUMPLINGS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 原宿餃子楼; 6-4-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 6 gyōza ¥290; h11.30am-4.30am Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

Gyōza (dumplings) are the only thing on the menu here, but you won’t hear

any complaints from the regulars who queue up to get their fix. Have them

sui (boiled) or yaki (pan-fried), with or without niniku (garlic) or nira

(chives) – they’re all delicious. Expect to wait on weekends or at lunchtime,

but the line moves quickly.

Commune 2nd

MARKET

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.commune2nd.com; 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; meals ¥1000-

1500; h11am-10pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A4)

Commune 2nd is a collection of vendors offering inexpensive curries, hot

dogs, beer and more. Purchase what you want from any of the stalls, then

grab a seat at one of the shared picnic tables – this is one of Tokyo’s rare

alfresco dining spots. It’s very popular, especially on a warm Friday or

Saturday night.

Sakura-tei

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さくら亭; %03-3479-0039; www.sakuratei.co.jp; 3-20-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; okonomiyaki ¥1050-1500; h11am-midnight; Wv; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku,

Takeshita exit)

Grill your own okonomiyaki at this funky place inside the gallery Design

Festa. In addition to classic options (with pork, squid and cabbage), there

are some fun fusion-style ones. There’s also a great-value, two-hour, all-

you-can-eat plan (¥2500 plus one drink order).

Gomaya Kuki

ICE CREAM

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ごまや くき; http://gomayakuki.jp; 4-6-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 2

scoops ¥500; h11am-7pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

Goma (sesame) ice cream is a must-try and this speciality shop is the place

to try it. There are two varieties, made from high-grade kurogoma (黒ごま;

black sesame) or shirogoma (白ごま; white sesame) from Mie Prefecture.

To really taste the sesame, double down and get it chōtokunō (super extra

strong). Literally thousands of seeds go into one scoop.

Mominoki House

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; もみの木ハウス; www.mominoki-house.net; 2-18-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch course ¥980-1480, dinner course ¥4500; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm

Sun; v; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) F

This pioneering macrobiotic restaurant has been running since 1976, long

enough to see many a Harajuku trend come and go (and to see some famous

visitors, like Sir Paul McCartney). Chef Yamada’s menu is heavily vegan,

but also includes free-range chicken and Ezo shika (Hokkaidō venison).

Inside, the restaurant looks like a grown-up tree fort and features several

cosy, semi-private booths.

Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 上下西東; %03-3403-6968; basement fl, 3-25-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; small plates ¥500-900, dinner course ¥3500-5000; h5.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to

Harajuku, Takeshita exit)

This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with

the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense.

The five-dish course (¥3500) – presented in succession and prettily plated –

is perfect for when you want to indulge, but not too much. (The seven-dish

course requires advance reservations.) Also, it looks like a cave.

o Eatrip

BISTRO

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3409-4002; www.restaurant-eatrip.com; 6-31-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; course ¥5400-8640; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 11.30am-3pm Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun; dJR Yamanote

line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit) F

Eatrip is one of the big players in Tokyo’s farm-to-table organic movement.

Working with domestic food producers, it serves up neo-bistro-style dishes

that reflect head chef Shiraishi Takayuki’s global travels. Sample dish:

mahata (grouper; from Mie Prefecture) sautéed with harissa (made in-

house), squid ink and daikon (radish). Course menu only; reserve ahead.

When you find it (it’s a little tricky; it’s a house entered via a stone path)

you’ll be surprised that such a peaceful spot exists in Harajuku.

5 Shibuya

Sagatani

SOBA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 嵯峨谷; 2-25-7 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; noodles from ¥320; h24hr; dJR

Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Proving that Tokyo is only expensive to those who don’t know better, this

all-night joint serves up bamboo steamers of delicious noodles for just

¥320. You won’t regret ‘splurging’ on the ごまだれそば ( goma-dare soba;

buckwheat noodles with sesame dipping sauce) for ¥450. Look for the stone

mill in the window and order from the vending machine.

Food Show

SUPERMARKET

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; フードショー; basement fl, 2-24-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; v; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

A best friend to harried and hungry commuters, Food Show has steamers of

dumplings, crisp karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken), sushi sets and

heaps of salads from which to choose, all packaged to go. It’s in the

basement of Shibuya Station; look for the green signs near Hachikō and in

the station pointing downstairs.

d47 Shokudō

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; d47食堂; www.hikarie8.com; 8th fl, Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya,

Shibuya-ku; meals ¥1550-1780; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya,

east exit)

There are 47 prefectures in Japan and d47 serves a changing line-up of

teishoku (set meals) that evoke the specialities of each, from the fermented

tofu of Okinawa to the stuffed squid of Hokkaidō. A larger menu of small

plates is available in the evening.

Gyūkatsu Motomura

TONKATSU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 牛かつ もと村; %03-3797-3735; www.gyukatsu-motomura.com;

basement fl, 3-18-10 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; set meal from ¥1300; h10am-10pm; dJR Yamanote line

to Shibuya, east exit)

You know tonkatsu, the deep-fried breaded pork cutlet that is a Japanese

staple; meet gyūkatsu, the deep-fried breaded beef cutlet and currently

much-hyped dish. At Motomura, diners get a small individual grill to cook

the meat to their liking. Set meals include cabbage, rice and soup. It’s just

off Meiji-dōri, at the southern end of Shibuya Stream.

Motomura is exceedingly popular, with queues common. It has since

opened other shops in Shibuya and around Tokyo to handle the overflow;

check online for locations.

Katsu Midori

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 活美登利; %03-5728-4282; www.katumidori.co.jp; 8th fl, Seibu Bldg A, 21-1 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h11am-11pm; c; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

There’s nearly always a queue at this very popular kaiten-sushi (conveyor-

belt sushi restaurant) inside Seibu department store, but it moves quickly.

The menu is huge, including lots of non-seafood items; especially tasty is

the sushi served ‘aburi’ style – lightly seared with a blowtorch.

Maru Bengara

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 圓 弁柄; %03-6427-7700; www.maru-mayfont.jp; 3rd fl, Shibuya Stream,

3-21-3 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; lunch set ¥1240-3760, dinner course from ¥6480, à la carte dishes

¥920-3565; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm; bGinza, Hanzōmon & Fukutoshin lines to Shibuya, exit 16b,

dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, new south exit)

Maru is a meal made easy: at lunch the restaurant does really good grilled

fish teishoku (set meals); in the evenings, courses with sashimi, seasonal

sides and vegetables, a main of meat or fish and a choice of Japanese-style

desserts. It’s part of the new Shibuya Stream complex, so you can get here

right from the subway.

o Matsukiya

HOTPOT

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 松木家; %03-3461-2651; 6-8 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku; meals from

¥5400; h5-11pm Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

There are only two things on the menu at Matsukiya, established in 1890:

sukiyaki (thinly sliced beef, simmered and dipped in raw egg) and shabu-

shabu (the same meat swished in hot broth and dipped in a citrusy soy or

sesame sauce). The beef is top-grade wagyū from Ōmi. Meals include

veggies and noodles cooked in the broths.

There’s a white sign out front and the entrance is up some stairs.

Reservations recommended.

o Narukiyo

IZAKAYA

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; なるきよ; %03-5485-2223; 2-7-14 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥700-4800; h6pm-12.30am; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, east exit)

Cult favourite izakaya, Narukiyo serves seasonal Japanese cuisine with

creative panache. The menu, which changes daily, is handwritten on a scroll

and totally undecipherable; say the magic word, omakase (chef’s choice;

and set a price cap, say ¥5000 or ¥7000 per person), and trust that you’re in

good hands. Reservations recommended.

5 Ebisu & Meguro

There are lots of small, chef-run restaurants in this part of town. There’s a

lot of experimentation too, and many shops that started out here have gone

on to open branches around the city, setting new dining trends along the

way. What there isn’t is pretence: many of the best restaurants in these

districts are casual and moderately priced.

o Tonki

TONKATSU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とんき; %03-3491-9928; 1-2-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; meals ¥1800; h4-10.45pm Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Mon of the month; dJR Yamanote line to Meguro, west exit)

Tonki is a Tokyo tonkatsu (crumbed pork cutlet) legend, deep-frying with

an unchanged recipe for nearly 80 years. The seats at the counter – where

you can watch the perfectly choreographed chefs – are the most coveted,

though there is usually a queue. There are tables upstairs.

From the station, walk down Megurodōri, take a left at the first alley and

look for a white sign and noren (doorway curtains) across the sliding doors.

Delifucious

BURGERS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6874-0412; www.delifucious.com; 1-9-13 Higashiyama, Meguro-ku; burgers from ¥1000; hnoon-9pm Thu-Tue; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro, main exit)

What happens when a former Ginza sushi chef turns his attention to – of all

things – hamburgers? You get fish burgers and anago (conger eel) hot dogs

prepared with the same attention to ingredients, preparation and

presentation that you’d expect from a high-end sushi counter (but at a far

more acceptable price).

Afuri

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; あふり; www.afuri.com; 1-1-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; ramen from ¥980; h11am-5am; v; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

Afuri has been a major player in the local ramen scene, making a strong

case for a light touch with its signature yuzu-shio (a light, salty broth

flavoured with yuzu, a type of citrus) ramen. It’s since opened branches

around the city, but this industrial-chic Ebisu shop is the original. It now

does a vegan ramen. Order from the vending machine.

Ouca

ICE CREAM

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 櫻花; www.ice-ouca.com; 1-6-6 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; ice cream from ¥400;

h11am-11.30pm Mar-Oct, noon-11pm Nov-Feb; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

Green tea isn’t the only flavour Japan has contributed to the ice-cream

playbook; other delicious innovations available (seasonally) at this famous

Ebisu ice-cream stand include kuro-goma (black sesame), kinako kurosato

(roasted soybean flour and black sugar) and beni imo (purple sweet potato).

Rangmang Shokudō

SHOKUDO

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; らんまん食堂; %03-5489-4129; www.rangmang.com; 1-4-1 Ebisu-

nishi, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥460-660; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm &

5-9.30pm Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu)

Fried chicken – which in Japan is lightly coated in a very fine starch – is

having a moment and Rangmang Shokudō has a lot to do with that. Each

order comes with four or five large bites, so you can eat light or go all out

and sample several flavours. Staff recommend starting out with the classic

shio (salt).

Ebisu-yokochō

STREET FOOD

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 恵比寿横町; www.ebisu-yokocho.com; 1-7-4 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; dishes

¥500-1500; h5pm-late; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

Locals love this retro arcade chock-a-block with food stalls dishing up

everything from humble yaki soba (fried buckwheat noodles) to decadent

hotate-yaki (grilled scallops). Seating is on stools; some of the tables are

made from repurposed beer crates. It’s loud and lively pretty much every

night of the week; go early to get a table. Hours and prices vary by shop.

You won’t find much English, but the adventurous can get away with

pointing at their fellow diners’ dishes (you’ll be sitting cheek-by-jowl with

them). The entrance is marked with a rainbow-coloured sign.

o Yakiniku Champion

BARBECUE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 焼肉チャンピオン; %03-5768-6922; www.yakiniku-champion.com;

1-2-8 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥780-3300, course from ¥5600; h5pm-midnight; dJR Yamanote

line to Ebisu, west exit)

Champion is one of Tokyo’s best spots for yakiniku – literally ‘grilled meat’

and the Japanese term for Korean barbecue. The menu runs the gamut from

sweetbreads to the choicest cuts of grade A5 wagyū; there’s a diagram of

the cuts as well as descriptions. It’s very popular; reservations

recommended.

Ippo

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一歩; %03-3445-8418; www.sakanabar-ippo.com; 2nd fl, 1-22-10 Ebisu,

Shibuya-ku; cover charge ¥500, dishes ¥450-1700; h6pm-3am; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east

exit)

This mellow little izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) specialises in simple

pleasures: fish and sake (there’s an English sign out front that says just

that). The friendly chefs speak some English and can help you decide what

to have grilled, steamed, simmered or fried; if you can’t decide, the ¥2500

set menu is great value. The entrance is up the wooden stairs.

Ta-im

ISRAELI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; タイーム; %03-5424-2990; www.ta-imebisu.com; 1-29-16 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; lunch from ¥1180, dinner mains ¥1580-2580; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-11pm Thu-Tue; v;

dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

This tiny Israeli bistro, run by expat Dan Zuckerman, regularly draws a

crowd for its authentic felafel (four for ¥680), schnitzel, hummus and more

– washed down with wine from the Golan Heights (¥980). Call ahead in the

evening (in English is fine) as it’s often full. Lunch is pita sandwiches.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HOT SPOT TOMIGAYA

For years Tomigaya, a largely residential part of what’s known as Oku-Shibuya (‘deep

Shibuya’), was a well-kept secret, but with more and more creative cafes, bistros and

boutiques opening, the buzz is too great to contain. Take a break from the brashness of central

Shibuya – just 15 minutes away on foot – to see what locals are so excited about.

Walking northwest from central Shibuya, along the Kamiyama-chō shōtengai (market

street), parallel to Inokashira-dōri, the first landmark you’ll pass is indie bookshop Shibuya

Publishing & Booksellers ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; SPBS; %03-5465-0588;

www.shibuyabooks.co.jp; 17-3 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit). There’s a small selection of books in

English here, and also other stuff, like totes and accessories from Japanese designers.

Soon after (and off to the left) is Camelback ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キャメルバッ

ク; www.camelback.tokyo; 42-2 Kamiyama-chō, Shibuya-ku; sandwiches ¥450-900; h8am-

5pm Tue-Sun; v; bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit 2), a creative sandwich shop run by a

young and savvy English-speaking crew (among them a trained sushi chef). Get the omelette

sandwich, made with the same kind of fluffy, rolled omelette served at sushi restaurants.

Seating is on the bench outside.

A couple blocks later (and one block over, towards Yoyogi-kōen) is Fuglen Tokyo ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; www.fuglen.no; 1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku; h8am-10pm Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri, 9am-2am Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; W; bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit 2), Tomigaya’s principal gathering spot. It does coffee by day and some of the city’s

most creative cocktails (from ¥1250) by night (Wednesday to Sunday).

In the evenings, Tomigaya is known for its fun neo bistros. Try Pignon ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; ピニョン; %03-3468-2331; www.pignontokyo.jp; 16-3 Kamiyama-chō,

Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥1700-4200; h6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya,

Hachikō exit) or Ahiru Store ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アヒルストア; %03-5454-2146; 1-19-4 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥900-2800; h6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 3-9pm Sat;

bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit 2).

5 Odaiba & Tokyo Bay

The best place to eat around Tokyo Bay is at the new Toyosu Market, which

has several floors of restaurants. Odaiba’s malls are packed with easy,

though largely uninspiring options.

o Sushi Dai

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 寿司大; %03-6633-0042; 3rd fl, Bldg 6, Toyosu Market, 6-5-1 Toyosu, Kōtō-ku; course meal ¥4500; h5.30am-1pm, closed Sun & market holidays; c; dYurikamome line

to Shijō-mae)

There is no better value sushi in Tokyo than the omakase (chef’s choice)

course here. The menu changes daily (and sometimes hourly), but you’re

guaranteed to get 10 pieces of nigiri (hand-pressed) sushi made from

seafood picked up from the fish market downstairs, prepared one at a time,

pre-seasoned to perfection (and with zero boring fillers). Expect to queue.

You can order à la carte, but considering each piece costs ¥500 to ¥800

(based on market rates), the course is the way to go; you also get to choose

your last piece. The shop also offers a course for customers who can’t eat

raw fish (¥4500) and a smaller children’s course (¥3000). Staff speak some

English and you’ll be dining with plenty of fellow travellers, but don’t write

this off as a tourist spot – locals love it, too.

Cash-only Sushi Dai is one of the shops that made the move from Tsukiji

to Toyosu; there’s a big photo of the old shop on the wall. It’s in the same

building as the Intermediate Wholesalers Market. Sushi Dai closes the same

days as the market so check the market schedule online.

o Daiwa Sushi

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大和寿司; %03-6633-0220; 1st fl, Bldg 5, Toyosu Market, 6-3-1 Toyosu, Kōtō-ku; course meal from ¥4320; h5.30am-1pm, closed Sun & market holidays; dYurikamome line

to Shijō-mae)

One of Tsukiji’s most famous sushi restaurants has made the move to the

new Toyosu Market. The course meal includes seven pieces of nigiri sushi

and one roll – all made with premium seafood. If you’re still hungry you

can order more sushi a la carte (¥300 to ¥800 per piece). Go early (before

9am), or there might be a queue.

Following the promenade from Shijō-mae to the fruit and vegetable

market, look for a set of stairs (and an elevator) heading down. Daiwa Sushi

is on the ground floor here, with blue door curtains.

Mosuke Dango

SWEETS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 茂助だんご; %03-6633-0873; 2nd fl, Bldg 7, Toyosu Market, 6-6-1

Toyosu, Kōtō-ku; per piece from ¥170; h5.30am-1pm, closed Sun & market holidays; v;

dYurikamome line to Shijō-mae)

The original Mosuke, a street vendor, began making dango (soft rice-flour

balls) in 1898, back when the fish market was in Nihombashi. Now on its

third market, Mosuke Dango still serves its famous shōyu dango (with soy-

sauce glaze) and tsubuan dango (made from chunky adzuki-bean paste), but

with the addition of a cafe eat-in space ( matcha ¥500).

Bills

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ビルズ; www.bills-jp.net; 3rd fl, Seaside Mall, DECKS Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; breakfast & lunch mains ¥1425-2375, dinner mains ¥1650-2700; h9am-10pm

Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; Wc; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)

Australian chef Bill Granger has had a big hit with his restaurant chain in

Japan – unsurprising given how inviting and spacious a place this is. The

menu includes his breakfast classics, like creamy scrambled eggs and

ricotta hotcakes, and lunch and dinner mains like wagyū burgers and prawn

and chilli linguine. The terrace has great bay views.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Roppongi, Shibuya and Shinjuku are tops for a big night out. All have a high

concentration of bars, music venues and karaoke parlours; Shibuya is best

for clubs. Fridays and Saturdays are the big nights out, though you’ll find

people in bars most nights of the week. Most clubs don’t get going until after

midnight (and can keep going past dawn). You’ll need to show a photo ID to

enter.

6 Marunouchi & Nihombashi

o Chashitsu Kaboku

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 茶室 嘉木; %03-6212-0202; www.ippodo-tea.co.jp; 3-1-1 Marunouchi,

Chiyoda-ku; tea set ¥1080-2600; h11am-7pm; dJR Yamanote line to Yurakuchō, Tokyo International

Forum exit)

Run by famed Kyoto tea producer Ippōdō – which celebrated 300 years of

business in 2017 – this teahouse is a fantastic place to experience the myriad

pleasures of ocha (green tea). It’s also one of the few places that serves

koicha (thick tea), which is even thicker than ordinary matcha (powdered

green tea). Sets are accompanied by a pretty, seasonal wagashi.

o Toyama Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トヤマバー; %03-6262-2723; www.toyamakan.jp; 1-2-6 Nihombashi-

muromachi, Chūō-ku; h11am-9pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit B5)

This slick counter bar offers a selection of sakes from 17 different Toyama

breweries. A set of three 30mL cups costs a bargain ¥700 (90mL cups from

¥700 each). English tasting notes are available. It’s part of the Nihonbashi

Toyama-kan (日本橋とやま館), which promotes goods produced in Japan’s

northern Toyama Prefecture. Pick up a bottle of anything you like at the

attached shop.

DON’T MISS

GOLDEN GAI: TOKYO’S ICONIC BAR DISTRICT

Golden Gai – a Shinjuku institution for over half a century – is a collection of tiny bars, often

literally no bigger than a closet and seating maybe a dozen. Each is as unique and eccentric as

the ‘master’ or ‘mama’ who runs it. In a sense, Golden Gai, which has a strong visual appeal,

with its low-slung wooden buildings, is their work of art. It’s more than just a place to drink.

The district has long been a gathering spot for artists, writers and musicians. Originally many

bars here functioned more like clubhouses for various creative industries. La Jetée ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; ラジェッティ; %03-3208-9645; www.lajetee.org; 2nd fl, Hanazono 3-ban-gai; 1-1-8 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h7pm-late Wed-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east

exit), named for the Chris Marker film, is a classic example: it’s been the go-to spot for film

industry veterans (the bar appears in Wim Wenders’ 1983 documentary Tokyo-Ga) for four

decades.

Some bars prefer to keep their doors closed to customers who aren’t regulars (foreign tourists

included) to preserve that old atmosphere; others, La Jetée included, will welcome you (if there

is space, of course).

But recently there’s been a changing of the guard, as new, younger owners take over, and the

exclusive atmosphere of old is giving way to a lively scene of international bar hoppers,

instinctively drawn to Golden Gai’s free spirit. Albatross G ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アル

バトロスG; www.alba-s.com; 5-ban Gai, 1-1-7 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu,

to 5am Fri & Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit), which drips with chandeliers, is a

popular spot that welcomes foreign visitors; it’s also comparatively spacious, with three floors

(try to get the table on the third floor).

Ramen shop Nagi is here too, if you need fuel.

But these are just suggestions to get you started. The best way to experience Golden Gai is to

stroll the lanes and pick a place that suits your mood. Bars that expressly welcome tourists have

English signs posted on their doors. Note that most bars have a cover charge (usually ¥500 to

¥1500), which is often posted on the door.

6 Ginza & Tsukiji

o Ginza Music Bar

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3572-3666; www.ginzamusicbar.com; 4F Brownplace, 7-8-13 Ginza, Chūō-ku; cover charge after midnight ¥1000; h6pm-4am Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exits 1

& 3)

A superb sound system showcases the 3000-plus vinyl collection that ranges

from the likes of cool classic jazz to contemporary electronica. There are

deep-blue walls and comfy seats in which to enjoy inventive cocktails

(starting from ¥1400), such as a matcha and wasabi martini.

o Cha Ginza

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 茶・銀座; %03-3571-1211; www.uogashi-meicha.co.jp; 5-5-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; hteahouse noon-5pm Tue-Sat, shop 11am-6pm Tue-Sat; bGinza line to Ginza, exit B3)

Take a pause for afternoon tea (¥700 to ¥1400) at this slick contemporary tea

salon. The menu is seasonal, but will likely include a cup of perfectly

prepared matcha and a small sweet or two, or a choice of sencha (premium

green tea). The ground-floor shop sells top-quality teas from various

growing regions in Japan.

Old Imperial Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mezzanine, Main Bldg, Imperial Hotel, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwai-chō, Chiyoda-ku; h11.30am-midnight; bHibiya line to Hibiya, exit A13)

One of the few parts of the Imperial Hotel to feature some of the designs and

materials used in Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1923 building (note the architectural

drawing behind the cash desk). It’s a dimly lit, classy place to enjoy a

cocktail (from ¥1580) or a shot of its signature 21-year-old Scotch whisky

blend (¥2400).

There’s no seating charge but 10% service is added to the bill.

Ginza Lion

BEER HALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 銀座ライオン; %050-5269-7095; https://ginzalion.net; 7-9-20 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11.30am-11pm, until 10.30pm Sun; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)

So what if Sapporo’s beers are not among the best you can quaff in Tokyo?

Dating to 1934, the gorgeous art deco design at Japan’s oldest beer hall –

including glass mosaic murals – is to die for. The oom-pah-pah atmosphere

with waiters ferrying frothy mugs and plates of Bavarian-style sausages to

the tables is also priceless.

Bongen Coffee

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6264-3988; www.ginza-bongen.jp; 2-16-3 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-8pm; W; bAsakusa or Hibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit A7)

Down a side street of Higashi-Ginza is this tiny third-wave coffee shop

serving single-estate brews with side orders of onigiri (Japanese rice balls)

or sandwiches of raisins and cream. An elegant traditional Japanese design

pervades with warm woods and a spotlit bonsai tree behind the espresso

machine.

Nakajima no Ochaya

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中島の御茶屋; 1-1 Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien, Chūō-ku; tea ¥510 or ¥720; h9am-4.30pm; dŌedo line to Shiodome, exit A1)

This beautiful teahouse from 1704 (and rebuilt in 1983) stands elegantly on

an island in the central pond at Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien, reached via a long

cedar bridge. It’s an ideal spot for a cup of matcha (powdered green tea) and

a sweet while contemplating the very faraway 21st century beyond the

garden walls.

DON’T MISS

BEST TOKYO BARS FOR…

A Craft beer: Popeye

A Drinks with a view: New York Bar

A Creative cocktails: Gen Yamamoto

A Date night: Two Rooms

A Japanese Whisky: Zoetrope

6 Roppongi & Around

o Gen Yamamoto

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP ; ゲンヤマモト; %03-6434-0652; www.genyamamoto.jp; 1-6-4 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku;

cover charge ¥1000, 4-/6-cocktail menu ¥4700/6700; h3-11pm Tue-Sun; bNamboku line to Azabu-

jūban, exit 7)

The delicious fruit-based drinks served here use local seasonal ingredients.

Yamamoto’s tasting menus are design to be savoured, not to get you sozzled

(servings are small), and the bar’s ambience – eight seats around a bar made

from 500-year-old Japanese oak – is reminiscent of a traditional teahouse.

We highly recommend the six-cocktail menu.

o Two Dogs Taproom

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; %03-5413-0333; www.twodogs-tokyo.com; 3-15-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sun & Mon, until midnight Tue & Wed, until 2am Thu-Sat; bHibiya line to

Roppongi, exit 3)

There are 24 taps devoted to Japanese and international craft beers, including

its own Roppongi Pale Ale, at this convivial pub just off the main Roppongi

drag. Work your way through a few jars to wash down the tasty and decent-

sized pizzas.

Rise & Win Brewing Co. Kamikatz Taproom

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; %03-6441-3800; www.kamikatz.jp; The Workers & Co, 1st fl, 1-4-2 Higashi-azabu, Minato-ku; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6-11pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya line to Kamiyachō, exit 2)

This craft-beer brewery is based in a village in Tokushima Prefecture,

Shikoku, that has adopted a zero-waste program. The bar features an

appealing mishmash of country cabin design, plus a light fixture made from

recycled bottles. There’s usually six types of beer on tap, including an IPA, a

porter and a leuven white; a flight of four costs ¥1400.

It also serves food, including specialities from Tokushima such as the

breaded and deep-fried fish paste cakes.

Ele Tokyo

CLUB

( MAP ; %03-5572-7535; www.eletokyo.com; Fukao Bldg, 1-4-5 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku; women free, men incl 1 drink Thu ¥2000, Fri & Sat ¥3000; h10pm-5am Thu-Sat; bŌedo line to Azabu-jūban,

exit 7)

Dress to impress to gain entry to this bling-tastic, two-level dance club that’s

one of the classier late-night joints around Roppongi. It’s always free entry

for women. You must be over 20 years and have photo ID.

6 Kōrakuen & Kanda

o Beer-Ma Kanda

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; びあマ神田; %03-3527-1900; www.facebook.com/kanda.wbm; 1-6-4

Kajichō, Chiyoda-ku; h4-11pm Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun; dJR lines to Kanda, south exit)

Down an alley of sketchy-looking drinking dens is this nirvana for craft-beer

lovers. It’s principally a bottle shop stocking hundreds of different beer

brands all of which you can buy and drink on the premises (corkage ¥200).

There’s also eight taps of barrel beer available with servings in a range of

sizes.

6 Ueno & Yanesen

Kayaba Coffee

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カヤバ珈琲; %03-3823-3545; http://kayaba-coffee.com; 6-1-29 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; coffee ¥450; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)

This vintage 1930s coffee shop (the building is actually from the ’20s) in

Yanaka is a hang-out for local students and artists. Come early for the

‘morning set’ (coffee and a sandwich for ¥800; served 8am to 11am). In the

evenings, Kayaba morphs into a bar.

Yanaka Beer Hall

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 谷中ビアホール; %03-5834-2381; www.facebook.com/yanakabeerhall;

2-15-6 Ueno-sakuragi, Taitō-ku; hnoon-8.30pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; bChiyoda line to

Nezu, exit 1)

Exploring Yanesen can be thirsty work so thank heavens for this craft-beer

bar, a cosy place with some outdoor seating. It’s part of a charming complex

of old wooden buildings that also houses a bakery-cafe, a bistro and an

events space. It has several brews on tap, including a Yanaka lager (¥970)

that’s only available here.

6 Asakusa & Ryōgoku

o Popeye

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ポパイ; %03-3633-2120; www.lares.dti.ne.jp/~ppy; 2-18-7 Ryōgoku, Sumida-ku; sampler set of 3/10 beers ¥630/1750; h5-11.30pm Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat; dJR Sōbu line

to Ryōgoku, west exit)

Popeye boasts an astounding 100 beers on tap, including a huge selection of

Japanese beers – from Echigo Weizen to Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout. The

happy-hour deal (5pm to 8pm, from 3pm on Saturday) offers select brews

with free plates of pizza, sausages and other munchables. It’s extremely

popular and fills up fast; get here early to grab a seat.

From the station’s west exit, take a left on the main road and pass under

the tracks; take the second left and look for Popeye on the right.

Kamiya Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神谷バー; %03-3841-5400; www.kamiya-bar.com; 1-1-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 3)

One of Tokyo’s oldest Western-style bars, Kamiya opened in 1880 and is

still hugely popular. The house drink for over a century has been Denki

Bran, a secret mix of brandy, gin, wine, curaçao and medicinal herbs. Order

either ‘blanc’ (30 proof) or the 40 proof ‘old’ at the counter, then give your

tickets to the server.

The bar is also famous for its enormous, cheap draught Asahi beer (¥1050

per litre).

‘Cuzn Homeground

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カズンホームグラウンド; %03-5246-4380;

www.homeground.jpn.com; 2-17-9 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; beer ¥900; hnoon-5am; W; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)

Run by a wild gang of local hippies, ‘Cuzn is the kind of bar where anything

can happen: a barbecue, a jam session or all-night karaoke, for example.

MISSED THE LAST TRAIN?

Missed the last train? You’re not alone – or stuck for options. Nightlife districts such as

Roppongi, Shinjuku and Shibuya have plenty of 24-hour options for night crawlers who were

lured out late by the neighbourhood’s charms but who’d rather not fork over the yen for a taxi

ride home. In addition to love hotels and manga kissa (cafes where you pay by the hour to read

manga , Japanese comic books), consider waiting for the first train at a karaoke parlour; most

offer discounted all-night packages from midnight to 5am.

6 Shinjuku & Around

o BenFiddich

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ベンフィディック; %03-6279-4223; 9th fl, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)

BenFiddich is dark and tiny, with vials of infusions on the shelves and herbs

hung to dry from the ceiling. The Englishspeaking barman, Kayama

Hiroyasu, in a white suit, moves like a magician. There’s no menu, so just

tell him what you like and he’ll concoct something delicious for you (we like

the gimlet with herbs). Expect to pay around ¥2000 per drink.

There’s no sign on the street, but it’s the building in between the karaoke

parlour and the curry shop. You’ll see the wooden door when you get out of

the elevator.

o Zoetrope

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゾートロープ; %03-3363-0162; 3rd fl, 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)

A must-visit for whisky fans, Zoetrope has some 300 varieties of Japanese

whisky behind its small counter – including hard-to-find bottles from small

batch distilleries. It’s a one-man show and the owner speaks English well.

Cover charge ¥600; whisky by the glass from ¥400 to ¥19,000, though most

are reasonably priced (around ¥800 to ¥1200), and there are some good-

value tasting flights, too.

New York Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ニューヨークバー; %03-5323-3458;

http://restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp/en/nyb.html; 52nd fl, Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; dŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4)

Head to the Park Hyatt’s 52nd floor to swoon over the sweeping nightscape

from the floor-to-ceiling windows at this bar of Lost in Translation fame.

There’s a cover charge of ¥2500 if you visit or stay past 8pm (7pm Sunday);

go earlier and watch the sky fade to black. Cocktails start at ¥2160. Note:

dress code enforced and 15% service charge levied.

Unfortunately New York Bar doesn’t take bookings, so you probably want

to go early anyway to score a table by the windows.

6 Harajuku & Aoyama

o Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 櫻井焙茶研究所; %03-6451-1539; www.sakurai-tea.jp; 5th fl, Spiral

Bldg, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tea from ¥1400, course from ¥4800; h11am-11pm;

bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B1)

Tea master (and former bartender) Sakurai Shinya’s contemporary take on

the tea ceremony is a must for anyone hoping to be better acquainted with

Japan’s signature brew. The course includes several varieties – you might be

surprised how different tea can taste – paired with small bites, including

some beautiful traditional sweets. Come in the evening for tea cocktails.

Reservations recommended.

Two Rooms

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トゥールームス; %03-3498-0002; www.tworooms.jp; 5th fl, AO Bldg,

3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11.30am-2am Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; bGinza line to Omote-

sandō, exit B2)

Expect a crowd dressed like they don’t care that wine by the glass starts at

¥1600. You can eat here too, but the real scene is at night by the bar. The

terrace has sweeping views towards the Shinjuku skyline. Call ahead (staff

speak English) on Friday or Saturday night to reserve a spot under the stars.

Aoyama Flower Market Teahouse

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3400-0887; www.afm-teahouse.com; 5-1-2 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku;

h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

Secreted in the back of a flower shop is this fairy-tale teahouse with flower

beds running under the glass-top tables and more overhead, plus cut blooms

in vases on every available surface. Tea comes by the pot and starts at ¥750;

there are pretty sweets and salad spreads on the menu too. Reservations

aren’t accepted so you may have to queue.

Koffee Mameya

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コーヒーマメヤ; www.koffee-mameya.com; 4-15-3 Jingūmae,

Shibuya-ku; coffee ¥350-1100; h10am-6pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)

At any given time, Koffee Mameya has 15 to 20 different beans on rotation

from indie roasters around Japan (and some from overseas). Get a cup

brewed on the spot or purchase beans for home use; English-speaking

baristas can help you narrow down the selection. There’s no seating, but you

can loiter at the counter.

It’s a little tricky to find; look for a beige building with an alcove and a

stone path.

6 Shibuya

o Circus Tokyo

CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.circus-tokyo.jp; 3-26-16 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, new south exit)

Circus, the Tokyo off-shoot of an Osaka club, is aggressively underground:

small, out of the way, in a basement (of course), with no decor to speak of

and all attention laser-focused on the often experimental music. It’s open

most Fridays and Saturdays from 11pm, and sometimes other nights; check

the schedule online. Cover ¥2000 to ¥3000 and drinks ¥600; ID required.

Wear your comfy shoes because there’s nowhere to sit.

Oath

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.djbar-oath.com; basement fl, 1-6-5 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; h8pm-5am Mon-Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Oath is a tiny space covered in gilt and mirrors, dripping in chandeliers and

absolutely not taking itself seriously. It’s a very popular spot for pre-partying

and after-partying, thanks to cheap drinks (¥500), fun DJs and a friendly

crowd. Cover charge is ¥1000 (one drink included).

Karaoke Rainbow

KARAOKE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6455-3240; www.karaoke-rainbow.com; 8th fl, Shibuya Modi, 1-21-3

Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; per 30min before/after 7pm ¥150/410; h11am-5am; dJR Yamanote line to

Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

This is Shibuya’s most popular karaoke spot for two reasons: it doesn’t have

the same dated look as the generic chains and you get the first hour free

(though technically you need to buy one drink; from ¥465). Staff speak some

English and the English song list is extensive. It’s on the 8th floor of the

building with the Marui department store.

Contact

CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コンタクト; %03-6427-8107; www.contacttokyo.com; basement, 2-10-12 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; hFri-Wed; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Shibuya’s most fashionable club at the time of research, Contact is several

stories under a parking garage. Come after 1am on a Friday or Saturday

night to see it in top form. Music may be hip-hop, house or techno – depends

on the night. It has plenty of space for just lounging, too. To enter, you must

first sign up for a membership. ID required.

The cover is steep: ¥3500 on a Friday or Saturday (¥2000 for under 23s);

it’s cheaper if you purchase a ticket in advance (through the website).

Beat Cafe

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/beatcafe; basement fl, 2-13-5 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku;

h8pm-5am; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Join an eclectic mix of local and international regulars at this comfortably

shabby bar among the nightclubs and love hotels of Dōgenzaka. It’s a known

hang-out for musicians and music fans; check the website for info on parties

(and after-parties). Look for Gateway Studio on the corner; the bar is in the

basement. Drinks from ¥500.

Rhythm Cafe

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; リズムカフェ; %03-3770-0244; http://rhythmcafe.jp; 11-1 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h6pm-2am; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Rhythm Cafe is a fun little spot secreted among the windy streets of

Udagawa-chō. It’s run by a record label and known for having off-beat event

nights, such as the retro Japanese pop night on the fourth Thursday of the

month. Drinks start at ¥600; some events have a cover, but not usually more

than ¥1000.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

A NIGHT OUT IN SHIMO-KITAZAWA

For generations, Shimokita (as it’s called here) has been a hangout for musicians, artists and

actors it’s among this city’s last bastions of bohemia. If hippies – not bureaucrats – ran Tokyo,

the city would look a lot more like Shimo-Kitazawa.

Unfortunately the massive (bureaucrat-led) redevelopment of the train station area is

cramping its style a bit, but it’s still a great place to wander – and bar-hop. Spend an evening

here and raise your glass to (and with) the characters committed to keeping Shimokita weird.

Some favourite haunts include tiny dive bar Ghetto ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 月灯; 1-45-16 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku; h8.30pm-late; dKeiō Inokashira line to Shimo-Kitazawa, north exit),

part of a collection of bars attached to a rundown fringe theatre, and cave-like rock-and-roll bar

Mother ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; マザー; %03-3421-9519; www.rock-mother.com; 5-36-14

Daizawa, Setagaya-ku; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-5am Fri & Sat; dOdakyū or Keiō Inokashira

line to Shimo-Kitazawa, southwest exit).

Shimo-Kitazawa (and the station of the same name) can be reached in less than 10 minutes

from Shinjuku, via the Odakyū line, or from Shibuya, via the Keiō Inokashira line.

6 Ebisu & Meguro

o Gem by Moto

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジェムバイモト; %03-6455-6998; 1-30-9 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1-9pm Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

Tiny Gem has a seriously good selection of interesting sakes from ambitious

brewers. Start with one of the Gem originals (brewed in collaboration with

the bar) – or let owner Chiba-san select one for you. Sake by the glass runs

from ¥650 to ¥5000 (but most are on the more reasonable end). Cover

charge ¥800; reservations recommended.

Bar Trench

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バートレンチ; %03-3780-5291; www.small-axe.net; 1-5-8 Ebisu-nishi,

Shibuya-ku; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

One of the pioneers in Tokyo’s new cocktail scene, Trench (a suitable name

for a bar hidden in a narrow alley) is a tiny place with an air of old-world

bohemianism – but that might just be the absinthe talking. The always-

changing original tipples are made with infusions, botanicals, herbs and

spices. Drinks from ¥1500; cover ¥500.

If it’s full, ask the staff for direction to sister bar Tram, one block over.

Onibus Coffee

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; オニバスコーヒー; %03-6412-8683; www.onibuscoffee.com; 2-14-1

Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; h9am-6pm; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro, south exit)

Local hot spot Onibus Coffee perfectly nails two of Tokyo’s current

obsessions: third-wave coffee and restored heritage buildings. The beans

here are roasted in-house and the cafe is set in a lightlyrenovated former tofu

shop.

6 Odaiba & Tokyo Bay

Jicoo the Floating Bar

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジークザフローティングバー; %11am-8pm 0120-049-490;

www.jicoofloatingbar.com; cover from ¥2600; h8-10.30pm Thu-Sat; dYurikamome line to Hinode or Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, north exit)

For a few nights a week, the futuristic cruise-boat Himiko, designed by

manga and anime artist Leiji Matsumoto, morphs into this floating bar.

Board on the hour at Hinode pier and the half-hour at Odaiba Kaihin-kōen.

The evening-long ‘floating pass’ usually includes some sort of live music;

check the schedule online as sometimes events drive up the price.

Note that this won’t run in the event of a typhoon or similarly inclement

weather.

GETTING TICKETS

Ticket Pia is the source for concert and theatre tickets; there are kiosks located on the ground

floor of Tower Records and on the 2nd floor of Shibuya 109. Staff may not speak English but if

you write down the name and date of the event, they can usually manage. Note that some

venues stop selling advance tickets one to three days before the show.

3 Entertainment

Live Music

o Shinjuku Pit Inn

JAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新宿ピットイン; %03-3354-2024; www.pit-inn.com; basement, 2-12-4

Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; from ¥3000; hmatinee 2.30pm, evening show 7.30pm; bMarunouchi line to

Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C5)

This is Tokyo’s best jazz spot: intimate, unpretentious and with an always

solid line-up of influential, avantgarde, crossover and up-and-coming

musicians from Japan and abroad. If you’re already a fan of jazz, you’ll want

to make it a point to visit; and if you’re not, Pit Inn is the kind of place that

just might win you over.

o Unit

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ユニット; %03-5459-8630; www.unit-tokyo.com; 1-34-17 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku; ticket ¥2500-5000; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama)

This subterranean club stages live music and DJ-hosted events (sometimes

staggered on the same night). The solid line-up includes Japanese indie

bands, veterans playing to a smaller crowd and overseas artists making their

Japan debut. Unit has high ceilings and an intentionally industrial-cool

interior (in addition to excellent sound), separating it from Tokyo’s grungier

live-music spots.

o WWW

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5458-7685; https://www-shibuya.jp; 13-17 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku;

tickets ¥3000-5000; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

In a former art-house cinema with the tell-tale tiered floor still intact, this is

one of those rare venues where you could turn up just about any night and

hear something good. The line-up varies from indie pop to hip-hop to

electronica. Upstairs is WWW X, a bigger space.

Both spots also sometimes host late-night club events, in which case

you’ll need photo ID to enter.

Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall

CLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京オペラシティコンサートホール; %03-5353-9999;

www.operacity.jp; 3rd fl, Tokyo Opera City, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; dKeiō New line to Hatsudai, east exit)

This beautiful, oak-panelled, A-frame concert hall, with legendary acoustics,

hosts the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra among other well-regarded

ensembles; bugaku (classical Japanese music) is also sometimes performed

here. Free lunchtime organ performances take place monthly, usually on

Fridays. Get information and tickets from the box office next to the entrance

to the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery.

Oiwake

TRADITIONAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 追分; %03-3844-6283; www.oiwake.info; 3-28-11 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku;

¥2000 plus 1 food item & 1 drink; h5.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 1)

Oiwake is one of Tokyo’s few minyō izakaya, pubs where traditional folk

music is performed. It’s a homely place, where the waitstaff and the

musicians – who play shamisen (a lutelike instrument), hand drums and

bamboo flute – are one and the same. Sets start at 7pm and 9pm; children are

welcome for the early show. Seating is on tatami.

Club Quattro

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; クラブクアトロ; %03-3477-8750; www.club-quattro.com; 4th & 5th fl, 32-13-4 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; tickets ¥3000-4000; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

This small venue attracts a more grown-up, artsy crowd than the club’s

location – near Shibuya Center-gai – might lead you to expect. There’s no

explicit musical focus, but the line-up leans towards indie rock and world

music. One drink (¥600) minimum order.

Club Goodman

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; クラブグッドマン; %03-3862-9010; www.clubgoodman.com;

basement, AS Bldg, 55 Kanda-Sakumagashi, Chiyoda-ku; cover charge ¥100-5500; dJR Yamanote

line to Akihabara, Shōwadōri exit)

In the basement of a building with a guitar shop and recording studios, it’s

no surprise that this live house is a favourite with Tokyo’s indie-scene bands

and their fans. Entry charges depend on the bands playing.

LGBT TOKYO

Tokyo has a small but very lively gay quarter, Shinjuku-nichōme – or just Nichōme, for short.

(Outside this and a handful of other scattered bars, the gay scene is all but invisible). Some

reliably welcoming and fun spots include:

Aiiro Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アイイロ カフェ; %03-6273-0740; www.aliving.net; 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun;

bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) Aiiro is the best place to start any night out

in Shinjuku-nichōme, thanks to the all-you-can-drink beer for ¥1000 happy-hour special from

6pm to 9pm daily. The bar itself is teeny-tiny; the action happens on the street corner outside,

which swells to block-party proportions when the weather is nice. There’s a red torii ( gate) out

front; you can’t miss it.

Arty Farty ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アーティファーティ; %03-5362-9720; www.arty-

farty.net; 2nd fl, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h8pm-4am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat;

bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) A fixture on Tokyo’s gay scene for many a

moon, Arty Farty welcomes all in the community to come shake a tail feather on its (admittedly

small) dance floor. It gets going later in the evening. Weekend events sometimes have a cover

charge (¥1000 to ¥2000), which includes entrance to sister club, The Annex, around the corner.

Drinks from ¥700.

Bar Goldfinger ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6383-4649; www.goldfingerparty.com; 2-12-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; bMarunouchi line to

Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) Goldfinger is a long-running ladies’ spot in Shinjuku-nichōme

(but open to all, save for Saturdays). The bar has a lowbrow-chic decor designed to look like a

’70s motel, a friendly vibe and fun events, like Friday-night karaoke. Drinks from ¥700; no

cover unless there’s an event.

Eagle ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; www.eagletokyo.com; 2-12-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) There’s much

to love about new Shinjuku-nichōme bar Eagle: the friendly staff, the happy-hour prices (¥500

drinks from 5pm to 8pm; otherwise they’re ¥700), but especially the instantly iconic mural

from proudly-out manga artist Inuyoshi. Pick up a free copy of the artist’s bilingual manga

Nippondanji here.

Performing Arts

o Kabukiza

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 歌舞伎座; %03-3545-6800; www.kabukiweb.net; 4-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-

ku; tickets ¥4000-20,000, single-act tickets ¥800-2000; dHibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3)

The flamboyant facade of this venerable theatre is fitting for the extravagant

dramatic flourishes that are integral to the traditional performing art of

kabuki. Check the website for performance details and to book tickets; you’ll

also find an explanation about cheaper one-act, day seats.

A full kabuki performance comprises three or four acts (usually from

different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11am to 3.30pm

or 4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between the acts. Be sure to rent a

headset (single act/full program ¥500/1000) for blow-by-blow explanations

in English, and pick up a bentō (boxed meal) to snack on during the

intervals.

If four-plus hours sounds too long, 90 sitting and 60 standing tickets are

sold on the day for each single act. You’ll be at the back of the auditorium

but the views are still good. Some acts tend to be more popular than others,

so ask ahead as to which to catch, and arrive at least 1½ hours before the

start of the performance.

National Theatre

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立劇場, Kokuritsu Gekijō; %03-3265-7411, box office 03-3230-3000;

www.ntj.jac.go.jp; 4-1 Hayabusa-chō, Chiyoda-ku; tickets ¥1700-7000; bHanzōmon line to Hanzōmon, exit 1)

This is the capital’s premier venue for traditional performing arts with 1600-

seat and 590-seat auditoriums. Performances include kabuki (a form of

stylised Japanese theatre), gagaku (music of the imperial court) and bunraku

(classic puppet theatre). Earphones with English translation are available for

hire (¥700 plus ¥1000 deposit). Check the website for performance

schedules.

To the rear of the main building is the Traditional Performing Arts

Information Centre (10am to 6pm; admission free) where you can see

exhibitions that include videos of performances.

National Nō Theatre

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立能楽堂, Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō; %03-3423-1331; www.ntj.jac.go.jp;

4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; adult ¥2700-4900, student ¥1900-2200; dJR Sōbu line to Sendagaya)

The traditional music, poetry and dances of nō, Japan’s oldest continued

mode of performing arts, unfold here on an elegant cypress stage. Each seat

has a small screen displaying an English translation of the dialogue. Shows

take place only a few times a month and can sell out quickly; purchase

tickets online one month in advance.

The theatre is 400m from Sendagaya Station; from the exit, walk right

along the main road and turn left at the traffic light.

New National Theatre

PERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新国立劇場, Shin Kokuritsu Gekijō; %03-5351-3011;

www.nntt.jac.go.jp; 1-1-1 Hon-machi, Shibuya-ku; dKeiō New line to Hatsudai, central exit) This is Tokyo’s premier public performing-arts centre, with state-of-the-art

stages for drama, opera and dance. The plays are in Japanese, while the

operas and ballets are usually visiting international productions. Japanese

contemporary dance (including the avant-garde Japanese style known as

butō) is sometimes performed here, which happily requires no language

ability.

Tickets are easy to purchase in English through the website.

Suigian

PERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 水戯庵; %03-3527-9378; https://suigian.jp; basement, 2-5-10 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; seating charge from ¥3800 plus 1 drink or food; h11am-11.30pm, until 9pm

Sun; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A6)

If you would like an up-close and personal taster of traditional Japanese

performing arts, including nō and kyōgen drama and courtly dances, make a

reservation for one of three 40-minute performances that take place here.

The small stage is backed by a beautiful painting of a pine tree, and

surrounded by an intimate, sophisticated restaurant and bar.

From 8.30pm (except Sunday) the space becomes the Momokawa Lounge

with dance performances on its stage. The easiest way to find Suigian, which

is beneath the Coredo Muromachi 2 building, is to locate the steps down

from ground level beside the Fukutoku shrine.

Kanze Nōgakudō

PERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 観世能楽堂; %03-6274-6579; www.kanze.net; Ginza Six B3, 6-10-1

Ginza, Chūō-ku; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)

This venerable group specialising in nō dramas relocated to the bowels of

the Ginza Six mall complex in 2017. The theatre seats 48; if you haven’t

booked in advance and would like a taster, you can check on the day for

¥3000 ‘happy hour’ tickets for an unreserved seat for the performance’s last

act.

Robot Restaurant

CABARET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ロボットレストラン; %03-3200-5500; www.shinjuku-robot.com; 1-7-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; tickets ¥8000; hshows at 5.55pm, 7.50pm & 9.45pm, additional show at

4pm Fri-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

This Kabukichō spectacle has hit it big with its vision of ‘wacky Japan’:

bikini-clad women ride around on giant robots against a backdrop of

animated screens and enough LED lights to illuminate all of Shinjuku. You

can book ahead online (at full price) or save up to ¥2000 per person by

purchasing at the venue with a discount flyer (available at TICs and hotels).

The show gets mixed reviews: some love it (you’ll get great photos),

while others recoil at the price and tourist-trapiness of it. You can get a

small, free taste of it just by basking in the glow of the exterior, where two

robo-glamazons are parked outside (also great for photos).

To get the full experience, head to sister bar Ren ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 蓮;

www.ren-shinjuku.com; 3rd fl, Shinjuku Robot Bldg, h10pm-5am) after the show; it’s in the same building, but the entrance is in the back.

Spectator Sports

o Ryōgoku Kokugikan

SPECTATOR SPORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 両国国技館, Ryōgoku Sumo Stadium; %03-3623-5111; www.sumo.or.jp; 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; tickets ¥3800-11,700; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit)

If you’re in town when a tournament is on, don’t miss the chance to catch

the big boys of Japanese wrestling in action at the country’s largest sumo

stadium. The key spectacle is around 3.45pm when the makuuchi (top

division) wrestlers in elaborately decorated aprons parade into the ring.

Tickets can be bought online one month before the tournament opens.

Tournaments run for 15 days each January, May and September. Doors

open at 8am, but the action doesn’t heat up until the senior wrestlers hit the

ring around 2pm.

For the opening and closing days and the days in between that fall on the

weekend you can expect advance purchase seats to sell out. Around 200

general-admission tickets (¥2100) are sold on the day of the match from the

box office in front of the stadium. You’ll have to line up very early (at the

latest from 6am) to buy one.

If you arrive in the morning when the stadium is still fairly empty, you can

usually sneak down to the box seats for a closer view. Rent a radio (¥100

fee, plus ¥2000 deposit) to listen to commentary in English. Stop by the

basement banquet hall to sample chanko-nabe (the protein-rich stew eaten

by the wrestlers) for just ¥300 a bowl.

Sumo | J. HENNING BUCHHOLZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Tokyo Dome

BASEBALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京ドーム; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp; 1-3 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; tickets

¥1700-6200; dJR Chūō line to Suidōbashi, west exit)

Tokyo Dome (aka ‘Big Egg’) is home to the Yomiuri Giants. Love ‘em or

hate ‘em, they’re the most consistently successful team in Japanese baseball.

If you’re looking to see the Giants in action, the baseball season runs from

the end of March to the end of October. Tickets sell out in advance; get them

early at www.giants.jp.

Jingū Baseball Stadium

BASEBALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神宮球場, Jingū Kyūjo; %0180-993-589; www.jingu-stadium.com; 3-1

Kasumigaoka-machi, Shinjuku-ku; tickets ¥2200-5000; bGinza line to Gaienmae, exit 3)

Jingū Baseball Stadium, built in 1926, is home to the Yakult Swallows,

Tokyo’s number-two team (but number-one when it comes to fan loyalty).

Most games start at 6pm. Get tickets from the booth next to Gate 9, which is

open from 11am to 5pm (or until 20 minutes after the game ends).

Same-day outfield tickets cost just ¥1800 (¥500 for children) and are

usually available – unless the Swallows are playing crosstown rivals, the

Yomiuri Giants.

DON’T MISS

WATCHING SUMO PRACTICE

Not in town for a sumo tournament? You can still catch an early-morning practice session at a

‘stable’ – where the wrestlers live and practise. Overseas visitors are welcome at Arashio

Stable ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 荒汐部屋, Arashio-beya; %03-3666-7646;

www.arashio.net; 2-47-2 Hama-chō, Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; h7.30am-10am; bToei Shinjuku

line to Hamachō, exit A2) F, so long as they mind the rules (check the website). Visit between

7.30am and 10am – you can watch through the window or on a bench outside the door.

There is no practice during tournament weeks.

7 Shopping

7 Marunouchi & Nihombashi

o Coredo Muromachi

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コレド室町; www.mitsui-shoppingpark.com/urban/muromach; 2-2-1

Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; hmost shops 10am-9pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A4)

Spread over three buildings, this stylish development houses many shops

from famous gourmet food purveyors, as well as reliable places to eat and

drink. In Coredo Muromachi 3 are elegant fashion and homewares

boutiques, including a branch of Muji.

o KITTE

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3216-2811; www.jptower-kitte.jp; 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; hshops 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun, restaurants until 11pm, 10pm Sun; dJR lines to Tokyo,

Marunouchi south exit)

This well-designed shopping mall at the foot of JP Tower incorporates the

restored original facade of the Tokyo Central Post Office (東京中央郵便

局). It is notable for its atrium, around which is arrayed a quality selection of

craft-oriented Japanese-brand shops selling homewares, fashion, accessories

and lifestyle goods.

o Mitsukoshi

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三越; %03-3241-3311; www.mitsukoshi.co.jp; 1-4-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; h10am-7pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A2)

Mitsukoshi’s venerable Nihombashi branch was Japan’s first department

store. It’s a grand affair with an entrance guarded by bronze lions and a

magnificent statue of Magokoro, the Goddess of Sincerity, rising up from the

centre of the ground floor. For the full effect, arrive at 10am for the bells and

bows that accompany each day’s opening.

Check out the floor dedicated to the art of the kimono or peruse the

morsels in the incredible depachika (department-store food floor).

Muji

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 無印良品; %03-5208-8241; www.muji.com/jp/flagship/yurakucho/en; 3-8-

3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Yūrakuchō, Kyōbashi exit)

The flagship store of the famously understated brand sells elegant, simple

clothing, accessories, homewares and food. There are scores of outlets

across Tokyo, but the Yūrakuchō store, renovated in 2017, is the largest with

the biggest range. It also offers tax-free shopping, bicycle rental (¥1080 per

day from 10am to 8pm; passport required) and a great cafeteria.

7 Ginza & Tsukiji

o Akomeya

FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アコメヤ; %03-6758-0271; www.akomeya.jp; 2-2-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku;

hshop 11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, restaurant 11am-10pm; bYūrakuchō line to Ginza-

itchōme, exit 4)

Rice is at the core of Japanese cuisine and drink. This stylish store sells not

only many types of the grain but also products made from it (such as sake), a

vast range of quality cooking ingredients, and a choice collection of kitchen,

home and bath items.

There’s also a good, casual restaurant here where rice, unsurprisingly,

features heavily on the menu. There’s a big branch in the Shinjuku

NEWoMan mall.

o Itōya

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伊東屋; %03-3561-8311; www.ito-ya.co.jp; 2-7-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A13)

Explore the nine floors (plus several more in the nearby annex) of stationery

at this famed, century-old Ginza establishment. There are everyday items

(such as notebooks and greeting cards) and luxuries (fountain pens and

Italian leather agendas). You’ll also find washi (handmade paper), tenugui

(beautifully hand-dyed thin cotton towels) and furoshiki (wrapping cloths).

o Okuno Building

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奥野ビル; 1-9-8 Ginza, Chūō-ku; hmost galleries noon-7pm; bYūrakuchō line to Ginzaitchōme, exit 10)

This 1932 apartment block (cutting edge for its time) is a retro time capsule,

its seven floors packed with some 40 tiny boutiques and gallery spaces.

Climbing up and down the Escher-like staircases, or using the antique

elevator, you’ll come across mini-exhibitions that change weekly.

o Takumi

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; たくみ; %03-3571-2017; www.ginzatakumi.co.jp; 8-4-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku;

h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 5)

You’re unlikely to find a more elegant selection of traditional folk crafts,

including toys, textiles and ceramics from around Japan. Ever thoughtful,

this shop also encloses information detailing the origin and background of

the pieces if you make a purchase.

Ginza Six

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6891-3390; http://ginza6.tokyo; 6-10-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-10pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)

This splashy mall opened in 2017. There are shops from top international

and local brands, of course, but also a branch of artsy Tsutaya Books (銀座

蔦屋書店; https://store.tsite.jp/ginza; h10am-10.30pm), a 4000-sq-metre rooftop

garden with great views and changing contemporary art installations. On the

ground floor, tourist information centre Terminal Ginza can arrange

shipping and luggage storage.

Dover Street Market Ginza

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; DSM; %03-6228-5080; http://ginza.doverstreetmarket.com; 6-9-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)

A department store as envisioned by Kawakubo Rei (of Comme des

Garçons), DSM has seven floors of avant-garde brands, including several

Japanese labels and everything in the Comme des Garçons line-up. The

quirky art installations alone make it worth the visit.

Uniqlo

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ユニクロ; %03-6252-5181; www.uniqlo.com; 5-7-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-9pm; bGinza line to Ginza, exit A2)

This now-global brand has made its name by sticking to the basics and

tweaking them with style. Offering inexpensive, quality clothing, this is the

Tokyo flagship store with 11 floors and items you won’t find elsewhere.

7 Roppongi & Around

o Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伝統工芸 青山スクエア; %03-5785-1301; www.kougeihin.jp; 8-1-

22 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h11am-7pm; bGinza line to Aoyama-itchōme, exit 4)

Supported by the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, this is

as much a showroom as a shop, exhibiting a broad range of traditional crafts

from around Japan, including lacquerwork boxes, woodwork, cut glass,

textiles and pottery. There are some exquisite heirloom pieces here, but also

beautiful items at reasonable prices. The touch screens in the front of the

shop have videos of the artisans at work.

Toraya

FOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とらや; %03-3408-4121; https://global.toraya-group.co.jp; 4-9-22

Akasaka, Minato-ku; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun, tearoom 11am-6.30pm, to

5.30pm Sat & Sun; b)

Founded in the 16th century in Kyoto, Toraya’s traditional confectionary has

long been patronised by the Imperial Court, giving it a cachet that other

sweet-makers can only dream about. This is its impressive flagship store,

reopened in 2018. It specialises in yokan, a jelly made from red bean paste,

but also sells other seasonal sweets all beautifully packaged.

Souvenir from Tokyo

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スーベニアフロムトーキョー; %03-6812 9933;

www.souvenirfromtokyo.jp; basement, National Art Center Tokyo, 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h10am-6pm Sat-Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8pm Fri; bChiyoda line to Nogizaka, exit 6)

There’s always an expertly curated, and ever-changing, selection of home-

grown design bits and bobs that make for unique souvenirs at this shop.

Tokyo Midtown

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東京ミッドタウン; www.tokyo-midtown.com; 9-7 Akasaka, Minato-

ku; h11am-9pm; bŌedo line to Roppongi, exit 8)

This sleek complex, where escalators ascend alongside waterfalls of rock

and glass, brims with sophisticated shops. Most notable is the selection of

homewares and lifestyle boutiques, including The Cover Nippon and Wise-

Wise, which carry works by Japanese designers and artisans, on the 3rd floor

of the Galleria section.

7 Ueno & Yanesen

o Ameya-yokochō

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アメヤ横町; www.ameyoko.net; 4 Ueno, Taitō-ku; h10am-7pm, some shops close Wed; dJR lines to Okachimachi, north exit)

Step into this partially open-air market paralleling and beneath the JR line

tracks, and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo feels like a distant memory. It got its start as a

black market, post-WWII, when American goods (which included ameya –

candy and chocolates) were sold here. Today you can pick up everything

from fresh seafood to vintage jeans and bargain sneakers.

o Geidai Art Plaza

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %050-5525-2102; www.artplaza.geidai.ac.jp; Tokyo University of the Arts, 12-8 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)

On the campus of Tokyo’s top arts university this shop, opened in 2018,

showcases creative pieces in a range of media by the institute’s staff,

students and graduates. It’s well worth a browse and if you can’t afford an

original work, there are plenty of affordable things too including books,

comics and specially designed biscuits.

o Yanaka Matsunoya

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 谷中松野屋; %03-3823-7441; www.yanakamatsunoya.jp; 3-14-14 Nishi-

Nippori, Arakawa-ku; h11am-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to

Nippori, west exit)

At the top of Yanaka Ginza, Matsunoya sets out its stall with an attractive

range of mainly household goods – baskets, brooms and canvas totes, for

example – simple in beauty and form, and handmade by local artisans.

Art Sanctuary Allan West

ART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 繪処アラン・ウエスト; %03-3827-1907; www.allanwest.jp; 1-6-17

Yanaka, Taitō-ku; h1.30-4.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, from 3pm Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)

F

In this masterfully converted garage, long-time Yanaka resident Allan West

paints gorgeous screens and scrolls in the traditional Japanese style, making

his paints from scratch just as local artists have done for centuries. Smaller

votive-shaped paintings start at ¥5000; the screens clock in at a cool ¥6

million.

7 Asakusa & Ryōgoku

o Kama-asa

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-9355; www.kama-asa.co.jp; 2-24-1 Matsugaya, Taitō-ku; h10am-5.30pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) F

A Japanese knife is not only a highly practical and prized piece of

kitchenware, it can also be extremely beautiful in its design. Admire an

excellent range at this upmarket store that has been in business since 1908.

There are English- and French-speaking staff on hand, and there’s a good

range of other kitchen implements, including steel pans.

If you can wait for a week, they can engrave your name or choice of

words onto a knife for free.

Bengara

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; べんがら; %03-3841-6613; www.bengara.com; 1-35-6 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun, closed 3rd Thu of the month; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit

1)

Noren are the curtains that hang in front of shop doors. This store sells

beautiful ones, made of linen and coloured with natural dyes (such as indigo

or persimmon) or decorated with ink-brush paintings. There are smaller

items too, such as pouches and book covers, made of traditional textiles.

Fujiya

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ふじ屋; %03-3841-2283; 2-2-15 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)

Fujiya specialises in tenugui: dyed cloths of thin cotton that can be used as

tea towels, handkerchiefs, gift wrapping (the list goes on – they’re

surprisingly versatile). Here they come in traditional designs and humorous

modern ones.

7 Shinjuku & Around

Shinjuku is a major shopping hub, with department and electronic stores

clustered around its train station.

o Isetan

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伊勢丹; %03-3352-1111; www.isetan.co.jp; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;

h10.30am-8pm; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B3, B4 or B5)

Isetan is our favourite Tokyo department store for several reasons: the up-

and-coming Japanese fashion designers (check the 2nd-floor Tokyo Closet,

and 3rd-floor Re-Style boutiques in the main building and the 2nd floor of

the men’s building); the homewares from contemporary artisans (5th floor);

and the quite literally mouthwatering depachika (basement food hall).

o Beams Japan

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ビームス·ジャパン; www.beams.co.jp; 3-32-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

Beams, a national chain of trend-setting boutiques, is a Japanese cultural

institution and this multistorey Shinjuku branch has a particular audience in

mind: you, the traveller. It’s full of the latest Japanese streetwear labels,

traditional fashions with cool modern twists, artisan crafts, pop art and more

– all contenders for that perfect only-in-Tokyo souvenir. Set your budget

before you enter.

Books Kinokuniya Tokyo

BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 紀伊國屋書店; %03-5361-3316; www.kinokuniya.co.jp/c/store/Books-

Kinokuniya-Tokyo; 6th fl, Takashimaya Times Sq Minami-kan, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku;

h10am-8.30pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit)

A longtime lifeline for Tokyo expats, Kinokuniya stocks a broad selection of

foreign-language books and magazines. Particularly of note is its fantastic

collection of books on Japan in English and Japanese literature in

translation; we love the notes handwritten by the staff with their

recommendations.

Disk Union Shinjuku

MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ディスクユニオン新宿; http://diskunion.net; 3-31-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

Keeping the dream alive for fans of physical music, Disk Union has eight

storeys of used CDs and records, including whole floors for genres like ’70s

prog and ‘80s new wave. There are a few more branches nearby with even

more specific (and obscure) foci; see the map out front.

NEWoMan

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newoman.jp; 4-1-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-9.30pm, food hall 8am-10pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit)

Awkward name and unlikely location (within the Shinjuku Bus Terminal

complex) aside, this newish mall is one of Tokyo’s swankiest places to shop.

There’s an outpost of excellent food and kitchenware shop Akomeya in the

basement and a line-up of posh takeaway vendors on the 2nd-floor terrace

(where you can sit and eat).

7 Harajuku & Aoyama

Harajuku is trend-central for young shoppers. Malls and department stores

on the main drags carry international fast-fashion brands alongside home-

grown ones. Edgier boutiques are located on the backstreets. Omote-sandō,

the boulevard connecting Harajuku and Aoyama, has statement boutiques

from pretty much all the famous European fashion houses. Many of the big

names in Japanese fashion, such as Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons and

Yohji Yamamoto, have their flagship boutiques in Aoyama.

o Arts & Science

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.arts-science.com; 103, 105 & 109 Palace Aoyama, 6-1-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; hnoon-8pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

Strung along the 1st floor of a mid-century apartment (across from the Nezu

Museum) is a collection of small boutiques from celebrity stylist Sonya

Park. Park’s signature style is a vintage-inspired minimalism in luxurious,

natural fabrics. Homewares, too.

o House @Mikiri Hassin

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ハウス@ミキリハッシン; %03-3486-7673;

http://house.mikirihassin.co.jp; 5-42-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-9pm Thu-Tue; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A1)

Hidden deep in Ura-Hara (Harajuku’s backstreet area), House stocks an

ever-changing selection of experimental Japanese fashion brands. Contrary

to what the cool merch might suggest, the sales clerks are polite and friendly

– grateful, perhaps, that you made the effort to find the place. Look for ‘ハ

ウス’ spelled vertically in neon.

Comme des Garçons

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コム・デ・ギャルソン; www.comme-des-garcons.com; 5-2-1

Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

Designer Kawakubo Rei threw a wrench in the fashion machine in the early

’80s with her dark, asymmetrical designs. That her work doesn’t appear as

shocking today as it once did speaks volumes about her far-reaching success.

This eccentric, vaguely disorienting architectural creation is her brand’s

flagship store.

KiddyLand

TOYS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キデイランド; %03-3409-3431; www.kiddyland.co.jp; 6-1-9 Jingūmae,

Shibuya-ku; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-9pm Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-

sandō exit)

This multistorey toy emporium is packed to the rafters with character goods,

including all your Studio Ghibli, Sanrio and Disney faves. It’s not just for

kids either; you’ll spot plenty of adults on a nostalgia trip down the Hello

Kitty aisle.

Laforet

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ラフォーレ; www.laforet.ne.jp; 1-11-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

Laforet has been a beacon of Harajuku fashion for decades, where young

brands cut their teeth and established ones hold court. Check out the avant-

garde looks at ground-floor boutiques Wall and Hoyajuku; more

mainstream boutiques are on the upper floors.

Gallery Kawano

VINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ギャラリー川野; www.gallery-kawano.com; 4-4-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-

ku; h11am-6pm; dGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)

Gallery Kawano’s selection of vintage kimonos are in good shape and priced

reasonably (from ¥10,000). If you’re serious about buying, the staff will help

you pick out a matching obi and show you how to tie it. Crafty types can

pick up kimono scrap fabric here, too.

7 Shibuya

Shibuya is a popular shopping spot for teens and 20-somethings. But the

neighbourhood’s position as a transport hub means there are branches of big-

box electronics stores and department stores, too.

o Tokyu Hands

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東急ハンズ; http://shibuya.tokyuhands.co.jp; 12-18 Udagawa-chō,

Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

This DIY and zakka (miscellaneous things) store has eight fascinating floors

of everything you didn’t know you needed – reflexology slippers, bee-

venom face masks and cartoon-character-shaped rice-ball moulds, for

example. Most stuff is inexpensive, making it perfect for souvenir- and gift-

hunting. Warning: you could lose hours in here.

There’s another branch in Shinjuku (東急ハンズ新宿店; MAP ; Takashimaya

Times Sq, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south

exit).

o d47 design travel store

DESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6427-2301; 8th fl, Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, east exit)

The folks behind the D&D Department lifestyle brand and magazine are

expert scavengers, searching Japan’s nooks and crannies for outstanding

examples of artisanship – be it ceramics from Ishikawa or linens from Fukui.

An ever-changing selection of finds are on sale.

Mega Donki

VARIETY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MEGAドンキ; %03-5428-4086; 28-6 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku; h24hr; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

You could show up in Tokyo completely empty-handed and this huge, new

outpost of all-night, bargain retailer ‘Don Quijote’ would have you covered.

There are groceries, toiletries, electronics and clothes – along with all sorts

of random stuff, including the best selection of unusual flavoured Kit-Kat

chocolates we’ve seen. Don’t miss the giant moray eel in the tank at the

entrance.

Tower Records

MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; タワーレコード; %03-3496-3661; http://tower.jp/store/Shibuya; 1-22-

14 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; h10am-11pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Yes, Tower lives – in Japan at least! This eight-storey temple of music has a

deep collection of Japanese and world music. Even if you’re not into buying,

it can be a great place to browse and discover local artists. There are lots of

listening stations.

Shibuya 109

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渋谷109; Ichimarukyū; www.shibuya109.jp; 2-29-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

Nicknamed marukyū, this cylindrical tower is a trend factory and teen

institution. Inside are dozens of small boutiques, each with its own carefully

styled look and competing soundtrack. Pose for photos with giant, pastel-

coloured cupcakes and doughnuts in the top-floor studio Moreru Mignon.

7 Ebisu & Meguro

Ebisu and Naka-Meguro have fashionable boutiques and vintage stores.

You’ll have to do a bit of legwork, but finds are worth it.

o Kapital

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キャピタル; %03-5725-3923; www.kapital.jp; 2-20-2 Ebisu-Minami,

Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

Cult brand Kapital is hard to pin down, but perhaps a deconstructed mash-up

of the American West and the centuries-old Japanese aesthetic of boro (tatty)

chic comes close. Almost no two items are alike; most are unisex. The shop

itself is like an art installation. The staff, not snobby at all, can point you

towards the other two shops nearby.

o Okura

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; オクラ; %03-3461-8511; www.hrm.co.jp; 20-11 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat & Sun; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama)

Okura may seem out of place in trendy Daikanyama (the shop looks like a

farmhouse), but it is actually a neighbourhood landmark. It’s full of artsy

original clothing items, almost all of which are made from natural textiles

and dyed a deep indigo blue. Note: there’s no sign out the front, but the

building stands out.

Daikanyama T-Site

BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 代官山T-SITE; %03-3770-2525; http://real.tsite.jp/daikanyama/; 17-5

Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku; h7am-2am; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama)

Locals love this stylish shrine to the printed word, which has a fantastic

collection of books on travel, art, design and food, including many books in

English on Japan. The best part is that you can sit at the in-house Starbucks

and read all afternoon – if you can get a seat.

…research General Store

SPORTS & OUTDOORS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sett.co.jp; 1-14-11 Aobadai, Meguro-ku; hnoon-7pm; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro, main exit)

…research General Store sells original made-in-Japan outdoor wear and gear

for the most stylish of mountain hermits (or what designer Kobayashi

Setsumasa calls ‘anarcho-mountaineers’ and ‘saunter punks’). There’s plenty

in here to appeal to the more sedentary too, like T-shirts and tableware.

Vase

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5458-0337; www.vasenakameguro.com; 1-7-7 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-

ku; hnoon-8pm; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro, main exit)

A perfect example of one of Naka-Meguro’s tiny, impeccably curated

boutiques, Vase stocks avant-garde designers and vintage pieces, and also

hosts the occasional trunk show. It’s in a little white house set back from the

Meguro-gawa (with the name on the post box).

8 Orientation

Generally speaking, Tokyo can be divided into central, east and west. The

Imperial Palace is in the centre of the city; nearby sights include the kabuki

theatre Kabukiza, in Ginza, and Tsukiji Market, in Tsukiji. The eastern part

of the city, around the Sumida-gawa, is often thought of as the old city.

Major sightseeing centres here include Ueno, where the Tokyo National

Museum is located, and Asakusa, home to the ancient temple, Sensō-ji. The

west side, including neighbourhoods like Shinjuku, Harajuku and Shibuya,

has more contemporary development. This is where you’ll find the

streetscapes that have become synonymous with modern Tokyo, aglow with

colourful signs and giant video screens, skyscrapers, and attractions like

Shibuya Crossing. On and around Tokyo Bay is the city that is still being

built: islands of reclaimed land that host leisure and entertainment facilities,

the new wholesale market on Toyosu, and many venues for the 2020

Summer Olympics.

8 Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

A Drink-spiking continues to be a problem in Roppongi (resulting in robbery,

extortion and, in extreme cases, physical assault). This is most often the case

when touts are involved; never follow a tout into a bar, anywhere.

A Men are likely to be solicited in Roppongi and neighbourhoods that are

considered red-light districts, including Kabukichō (in Shinjuku) and

Dōgenzaka (in Shibuya). Women – particularly solo women – are likely to

be harassed in these districts.

MEDICAL SERVICES

St Luke’s International Hospital (聖路加国際病院; Seiroka Kokusai Byōin;

MAP ; %appointments 03-3527-9527, general 03-3541-5151, international department 03-5550-7166;

http://hospital.luke.ac.jp; 9-1 Akashi-chō, Chūō-ku; hinternational department 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; bHibiya line to Tsukiji, exits 3 & 4) Tokyo’s most foreigner-friendly hospital, with

English-speaking doctors and translation services provided. Walk-ins

accepted for primary care (8.30am to 11am weekdays) and paediatric care

(8.30am to 11am and 6.45pm to 9.45pm weekdays); appointments are

required for specialist care. Has 24-hour emergency care.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Tourist Information Center (

MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5321-3077; info@tokyo-tourism.jp; 1st fl, Tokyo Metropolitan Government bldg 1, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am-6.30pm; bŌedo line to Tochōmae,

exit A4) Has English-language information and publications. There are

additional branches in Keisei Ueno Station ( MAP ; %03-3836-3471; 1-60 Ueno-kōen,

Taitō-ku; h9.30am-6.30pm; W; dJR & Keisei lines to Ueno, Ikenohata exit), Haneda Airport

(%03-6428-0653; h24hr; W) and Shinjuku Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6274-8192; 3rd fl, Shinjuku Bus Station, 5-24-55 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h6.30am-11pm; dJR

Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit).

JNTO Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3201-3331;

www.jnto.go.jp; 1st fl, Shin-Tokyo Bldg, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h9am-5pm; W; bChiyoda line to Nijūbashimae, exit 1) Run by the Japan National Tourism Organisation

(JNTO), this TIC has information on Tokyo and beyond. Staff speak

English.

In addition to the nationally- and municipallyrun Tourist Information

Centers (TICs), there are many others around the city, run by individual

wards, neighbourhood revitalisation NPOs (nonprofits) and private

enterprises.

Beyond general information in English, some offer luggage storage and

shipping services, neighbourhood tours and cultural activities. Note that

TICs cannot make accommodation bookings.

Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center, a ward-run TIC, has lots of info

on Asakusa and Ueno, and a Pia ticket counter (for purchasing tickets to

concerts and shows), near the entrance to Sensō-ji.

JR EAST Travel Service Centers

At all JR East Travel Service Centers, located at both airports and at JR

Tokyo, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro, Ueno and Hamamatsuchō Stations,

you can book shinkansen (bullet-train) tickets, purchase rail passes or

exchange rail-pass vouchers and get tourist information in English. The main

branch, at Tokyo Station (JR東日本トラベルサービスセンター; MAP ; %03-

5221-8123; www.jreast.co.jp; Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h7.30am-8.30pm; W; dJR Yamanote line to Tokyo, Marunouchi north exit), also offers currency exchange,

same-day baggage storage (¥600), luggage forwarding, and booking services

for ski and onsen getaways that are accessed via JR lines (and with lodgings

at partner hotels); bookings can also be made at the Shinjuku branch.

USEFUL WEBSITES

Go Tokyo (www.gotokyo.org) The city’s official website includes

information on sights, events and suggested itineraries.

Tokyo Cheapo (https://tokyocheapo.com) Hints on how to do Tokyo on the

cheap.

Time Out Tokyo (www.timeout.jp) Arts and entertainment listings.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Haneda Airport

Closer to central Tokyo, Haneda Airport (HND, 羽田空港; %international terminal

03-6428-0888; www.haneda-airport.jp; W) has two domestic terminals and one

international terminal. Note that some international flights arrive at awkward

night-time hours, between midnight and 5am, when the only public transport

to central Tokyo will be infrequent night buses and taxis.

There’s a tourist information centre in the international terminal, on the

2nd floor of the arrivals lobby.

Narita Airport

Though modern and well-run, Narita Airport (NRT, 成田空港; %0476-34-8000;

www.naritaairport.jp; W) is inconveniently located 66km east of Tokyo. There are

three terminals, with Terminal 3 handling low-cost carriers. All terminals

have tourist information desks.

Only Terminals 1 and 2 have train stations; all terminals are accessible via

coach lines.

A free shuttle bus runs between Terminal 2 and Terminal 3 approximately

every five minutes (4.30am to 11.20pm); otherwise it is a 15-minute walk

between the two terminals. Free shuttles also run between all terminals every

15 minutes (8am to 8pm) and every 30 minutes (7am to 8am and 8pm to

9.30pm).

When returning, note that there is a much better selection of shops and

restaurants before security.

BUS

The easiest port of entry for travellers coming by bus from other parts of

Japan is the new Shinjuku Bus Terminal (バスタ新宿, Busuta Shinjuku; MAP ;

%03-6380-4794; www.shinjukubusterminal.co.jp; 4th fl, 5-24-55 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; W; dJR

Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit), part of the JR Shinjuku train station

complex. There is a tourist information centre on the 3rd floor and direct

access to JR rail lines on the 2nd floor. Another long-distance hub is the JR

Highway Bus Terminal at Tokyo Station.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Driving in Tokyo, both on the shutokō (the city’s convoluted expressway

network) and the narrow lanes of residential neighbourhoods, can be

challenging if you are not already used to driving such roads.

If your destination is a major hotel, arriving by rental car from other parts

of Japan is a reasonable option; such hotels will have drop-off lanes and

parking facilities (the latter at a cost).

Guesthouses and apartment rentals are often tucked deep in residential

districts that are hard to navigate and will not have parking spaces – and may

be located on roads so narrow that even brief (illegal) street parking would

be tricky.

TRAIN

Tokyo Station (東京駅; MAP ; www.tokyostationcity.com; 1-9 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; dJR

lines to Tokyo Station) is the terminus for all shinkansen that connect Tokyo to

major cities all over Japan. From Tokyo Station you can transfer to the JR

Chūō and JR Yamanote lines, as well as the Marunouchi subway line.

Shinkansen from points west (Kansai, Western Honshū and Kyūshū) will

stop at Shinagawa (one stop before Tokyo Station for inbound trains), more

useful for destinations on the city’s west or south sides.

Meanwhile, shinkansen from points east (Tōhoku and Hokkaidō) will stop

at Ueno (one stop before Tokyo Station for inbound trains), more useful for

destinations on the city’s east or north sides.

Both Shinagawa and Ueno are stops on the JR Yamanote line. From

Shinagawa you can also get the Toei Asakusa subway line; From Ueno you

can transfer to the Ginza and Hibiya subway lines.

8 Getting Around

TO/FROM HANEDA AIRPORT

Bus

Purchase tickets at the kiosks at the arrivals hall. In Tokyo, there’s a ticket

counter inside the Shinjuku Bus Terminal.

Friendly Airport Limousine (www.limousinebus.co.jp) Coaches connect Haneda with major train stations and hotels in Shibuya (¥1030), Shinjuku

(¥1230), Roppongi (¥1130), Ginza (¥930) and others, taking anywhere from

30 to 90 minutes depending on traffic. Buses for Shinjuku depart every 30 to

40 minutes (5am to 11.30pm) and at 12.20am, 1am, 1.40am and 2.20am;

departures for other areas are less frequent. Fares double between midnight

and 5am.

Monorail

Tokyo Monorail (www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp) Leaves approximately every

10 minutes (5am to midnight) for Hamamatsuchō Station (¥490, 15

minutes), which is a stop on the JR Yamanote line. Good for travellers

staying near Ginza or Roppongi.

Train

Keikyū Airport Express (www.haneda-tokyoaccess.com) Trains depart

several times an hour (5.30am to midnight) for Shinagawa (¥410, 12

minutes), where you can connect to the JR Yamanote line. From Shinagawa,

some trains continue along the Asakusa subway line, which serves Higashi-

Ginza, Nihombashi and Asakusa stations.

Note that the international and domestic terminals have their own stations;

when travelling to the airport, the international terminal is the second-last

stop.

Taxi

Fixed fares from designated airport taxi stands include: Ginza (¥5900),

Shibuya (¥6600), Shinjuku (¥7100), Ikebukuro (¥8900) and Asakusa

(¥7200), plus highway tolls (around ¥800). There’s a 20% surcharge

between 10pm and 5am. Credit cards accepted.

AIRPORT TRANSPORT & SUBWAY PASS PACKAGE DEALS

The following packages combine airport transport and an unlimited-ride Tokyo subway pass

(good on Tokyo Metro and Toei lines, but not JR ones).

Limousine & Subway Pass (www.limousinebus.co.jp/en/guide/ticket/subwaypass.html) One-way travel on the Friendly Airport Limousine from Narita or Haneda Airports to most (but not

all) stations and hotels serviced by coach routes and a 24-hour subway pass; or round-trip travel

and a 48- or 72-hour subway pass. Coming from Narita this package is cheaper than buying a

regular return ticket. Any ticket packages can be purchased on arrival at the airport; one-way

packages can also be purchased at Shinjuku Bus Terminal.

Skyliner & Tokyo Subway Ticket One-way or round-trip travel on the Skyliner between Narita

Airport and Ueno plus a 24-, 48- or 72-hour subway pass. Purchase online in advance or on

arrival at the ticketing counter for a saving of ¥540 to ¥2240 off the total combined price of the

included individual tickets.

TO/FROM NARITA AIRPORT

Bus

Access Narita (www.accessnarita.jp; ¥1000) Discount buses depart roughly

every 20 minutes (7.30am to 10.45pm) for Tokyo Station and Ginza (one to

1¼ hours). There’s no ticket counter at the airport; just go directly to bus

stop 31 at Terminal 1, or stops 2 or 19 at Terminal 2, and pay on board.

Luggage is restricted to one suitcase of less than 20kg. For return trips to

Narita, buses depart from platform 7 at the JR Highway Bus Terminal at

Tokyo Station. You can reserve tickets online, but only in Japanese;

departures are frequent, so if you leave yourself a little extra time, you

should have no problem.

Friendly Airport Limousine (www.limousinebus.co.jp; adult/child

¥3100/1550) Coaches run to major hotels and train stations in central Tokyo.

The journey takes 1½ to two hours depending on traffic. Travellers are

allowed two bags up to 30kg each. No advance reservations are necessary

but you must purchase a ticket before boarding. You can purchase tickets for

the next available bus from one of the kiosks in any of the terminals’ arrivals

halls. At the time of research, discount round-trip tickets (¥4500), good for

14 days, were available for foreign tourists; ask at the airport ticket kiosk.

From Tokyo, there’s a ticket counter inside the Shinjuku Bus Terminal; you

can also reserve online up to the day before departure.

Train

Both Japan Railways (JR) and the independent Keisei line run between

central Tokyo and Narita Airport Terminals 1 and 2. For Terminal 3, take a

train to Terminal 2 and then walk or take the free shuttle bus to Terminal 3

(and budget an extra 15 minutes).

Tickets can be purchased upon arrival in the basement of either terminal,

where the entrances to the train stations are located; you cannot buy tickets

on the train. In general trains run slightly more frequently from the late

morning to the late afternoon and less frequently earlier and later.

Seats on Narita Express and Skyliner trains are all reserved; purchase

them at a ticket window or from the touch-screen machines. It’s usually

possible to get a seat on the next available train, though those with departure

anxiety may want to book their outbound ticket in advance. Speed and

comfort level are pretty much the same; both have space in the front of the

cars to store luggage. Generally, the Skyliner is more convenient for

destinations on the east side of Tokyo while the Narita Express gets you to

the west side of the city faster.

Keisei Skyliner (www.keisei.co.jp) Nonstop direct trains to Nippori (36

minutes) followed by Ueno (41 minutes) run approximately twice an hour

between 7.30am and 10pm (adult/child ¥2470/1240). Transfer is available at

Nippori Station for the JR Yamanote line and at Ueno for the JR Yamanote

line and Ginza and Hibiya subway lines. Foreign nationals can purchase

advance tickets online for slightly less (one-way/return ¥2200/4300).

Narita Express (N’EX; www.jreast.co.jp) Trains run between 7.45am to

9.45pm, departing Narita Airport for Tokyo Station (¥3020, 60 minutes)

before splitting and heading out to other parts of the city. The most useful

route runs approximately every half-hour to Shibuya (75 minutes) and

Shinjuku (80 minutes); some trains stop first at Shinagawa (65 minutes)

while others may continue to Ikebukuro (85 minutes). The price for all of the

above destinations is the same: ¥3190. The ticket you purchase for your

specific destination will ensure that you are in a seat in the right car – so it’s

pretty hard to mess this up! At the time of research, foreign tourists could

purchase return N’EX tickets for ¥4000 (¥2000 for under 12s), which are

valid for 14 days and can be used on any route. Check online or enquire at

the JR East Travel Service Centers at Narita Airport for the latest deals.

Long-haul JR passes are valid on N’EX trains, but you must obtain a seat

reservation (no extra charge) from a JR ticket office.

Regular Keisei line trains run parallel to the Skyliner but make stops, and

are a good budget option. There are no reserved seats on these trains; if you

(and your bags) can squeeze in, you can ride. Purchase tickets from the

touch-screen machines. These options can be a little bit more confusing, so

pay attention to the signboards.

Keisei Main Line Rapid tokkyū (特急) trains run roughly every 20 minutes

(from 6am to 10.30pm) to Nippori (¥1030; 66 minutes) and Ueno (¥1030; 71

minutes). There are also local trains that take significantly longer; make sure

you get the tokkyū.

Keisei Access Express Approximately every 40 minutes (5.40am to 11pm)

there are trains making limited stops on the same route until Aoto, after

which they hook up with the Toei Asakusa line, running south to Asakusa

(¥1290; 50 minutes), Nihombashi (¥1330; 59 minutes), Shimbashi (¥1330;

62 minutes) and Shinagawa (¥1520; 72 minutes).

Taxi

Fixed-fare taxis run ¥20,000 to ¥22,000 for most destinations in central

Tokyo, plus tolls (about ¥2000 to ¥2500). There’s a 20% surcharge between

10pm and 5am. Credit cards accepted.

BICYCLE

Tokyo is by no means a bicycle-friendly city. Bike lanes are almost

nonexistent and you’ll see no-parking signs for bicycles everywhere. (Ignore

these at your peril: your bike could get impounded, requiring a half-day

excursion to the pound and a ¥3000 fee.) Despite all this you’ll see locals on

bikes everywhere.

Cogi Cogi (www.cogicogi.jp; 24hr ¥2400) is a bike-sharing system with ports around the city, including some hostels. There are instructions in English,

but it’s a little complicated to use. You’ll need to download an app, register a

credit card and have wi-fi connection on the go to sync with the ports.

Some accommodations have bikes to lend, sometimes for free or for a

small fee. For exploring the neighbourhoods of Ueno and Yanesen, check

out Tokyobike Rentals Yanaka. In Yurakuchō, Muji has bikes to rent.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Bus

Toei (www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp/eng/services/bus.html) runs an extensive bus network, though it’s rarely more convenient than the subway.

A Fares are ¥210/110 per adult/child; there are no transfer tickets. Pay by IC

pass or deposit your fare into the box as you enter the bus; there’s a change

machine at the front of the bus that accepts ¥1000 notes.

A Most buses have digital signage that switches between Japanese and

English (otherwise listen for your stop). Signal the bus to stop in advance of

the approaching stop by pushing one of the buttons near the seats.

Subway & Train

Tokyo’s extensive rail network includes JR lines, a subway system and

private commuter lines that depart in every direction for the suburbs, like

spokes on a wheel. Journeys that require transfers between lines run by

different operators cost more than journeys that use only one operator’s

lines. Major transit hubs include Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Shinjuku,

Ikebukuro and Ueno stations.

Trains and subways run 5am to midnight. Trains arrive and depart

precisely on time and are generally clean and pleasant, though they get

uncomfortably crowded during rush hours. The morning rush (7am to

9.30am) for trains going towards central Tokyo (from all directions) is the

worst. Until 9.30am women (and children) can ride in women-only cars,

which tend to be less crowded. The evening rush (around 5pm to 8pm) hits

trains going out of central Tokyo – though as many work late or stay out, it’s

not as bad as the morning commute. The last train of the night heading out of

the city (around midnight) is also usually packed – with drunk people. Trains

going the opposite directions during peak hours (towards central Tokyo in

the evening, for example) are uncrowded, as are trains in the middle of the

day.

TRAIN & SUBWAY TIPS

A Figure out the best route to your destination with the Japan Travel app

(www.navitimejapan.com).

A Most train and subway stations have several different exits. Try to get your bearings and

decide where to exit while still on the platform; look for the yellow signs that indicate which

stairs lead to which exits.

A If you’re not sure which exit to take, look for street maps of the area, usually posted near the

ticket gates, which show the locations of the exits.

A Hub stations have lockers in several sizes and cost from ¥200 to ¥600. Storage is good for 24

hours, after which your bags will be removed and taken to the station office.

A Most train stations have toilets, almost all of which are free of charge and have toilet paper

(though not always soap and towels).

Lines & Fares

The JR network covers the whole country and includes the shinkansen

(bullet train) . In Tokyo, the above-ground Yamanote (loop) and the Chūō–

Sōbu (central) lines are the most useful. Tickets start at ¥133 and go up

depending on how far you travel.

Tokyo has 13 subway lines, nine of which are operated by Tokyo Metro

(www.tokyometro.jp) and four by Toei (www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp). The

lines are colour-coded, making navigation fairly simple. Unfortunately a

transfer ticket is required to change between the two; a Pasmo or Suica card

makes this process seamless, but either way a journey involving more than

one operator comes out costing slightly more. Rides on Tokyo Metro cost

¥170 to ¥240 (¥90 to ¥120 for children) and on Toei ¥180 to ¥320 (¥90 to

¥160 for children), depending on how far you travel.

Private commuter lines service some of the hipper residential

neighbourhoods. Useful trains:

Keiō Inokashira line From Shibuya for Shimo-Kitazawa and Kichijōji.

Odakyū line From Shinjuku for Shimo-Kitazawa.

Tōkyū-Tōyoko line From Shibuya for Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro.

Note that the commuter lines run tokkyū (特急; limited-express services),

kyūkō (急行; express) and futsū (普通; local) trains, which can be a little

confusing.

Lost & Found

Larger stations have dedicated lost-and-found windows (labelled in English);

otherwise lost items are left with the station attendant. Items not claimed on

the same day will be handed over to the operator’s lost-and-found centre.

Items not claimed after several days are turned over to the police.

JR East Infoline (%in English 050-2016-1603; h10am-6pm)

Toei Transportation Lost & Found (%03-3816-5700;

www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp/eng/tips/found.html; h9am-8pm)

Tokyo Metro Lost & Found ( MAP ; %03-5227-5741; h9am-8pm; dJR Sōbu line to

Iidabashi, west exit) Office located inside Iidabashi Station on the Namboku line.

Ticket & Passes

Suica & Pasmo

Prepaid re-chargeable Suica and Pasmo cards (they’re interchangeable) work

on all city trains, subways and buses. These make easy work of getting

around all the different networks. Bonus: fares for pass users are slightly less

(a few yen per journey) than for paper-ticket holders.

A Purchase from any touch-screen ticketvending machine in Tokyo

(including those at Haneda and Narita Airports); most have an English

option. JR stations sell Suica; subway and independent lines sell Pasmo.

A Both require a ¥500 deposit, which is refunded (along with any remaining

charge) when you return the pass to any ticket window.

A Passes can be topped-up at any touch-screen ticket-vending machine (not

just, for example, at JR stations for Suica passes) in increments of ¥1000.

A To use the cards, just run them over the card readers at the ticket gates

upon entering and exiting.

A If you somehow manage to invalidate your card, take it to the station

window and staff will sort it out.

Single-ride tickets

A Single-ride paper tickets can be purchased at touch-screen ticket-vending

machines outside station ticket gates.

A To purchase the correct ticket, you’ll need to work out the fare from the

chart above the machines. If you’re unsure, just buy a ticket for the cheapest

fare (you can sort it out when you exit).

A Insert your ticket in the slot at the gate (only some of the ticket gates will

have slots for paper tickets). Make sure to pick it up when it pops out again.

A You’ll do the same thing when you exit. If your ticket does not have

sufficient charge to cover your journey, insert it into one of the ‘fare

adjustment’ machines near the exit gates.

Unlimited-Ride tickets

If you’re planning a packed day, you might consider getting an unlimited-

ride ticket.

Tokyo Subway Ticket Good for unlimited rides on both Tokyo Metro and

Toei subway lines for 24 (¥800), 48 (¥1200) or 72 (¥1500) hours; half-price

for children. This pass is only available to foreign travellers on a tourist visa;

for more information and sales points see www.tokyometro.jp.

Tokyo Metro One-Day Open Ticket (adult/child ¥600/300) Unlimited rides

over a 24-hour period on Tokyo Metro subway lines only. Purchase at any

Tokyo Metro station; no restrictions apply.

TAXI

Taxis only make economic sense for short distances or groups of four.

A Fares start at ¥410 for the first 1km, then rise by ¥80 for every 237m you

travel or for every 90 seconds spent in traffic.

A There’s a surcharge of 20% between 10pm and 5am.

A Drivers rarely speak English, though most taxis have navigation systems.

Have your destination written down in Japanese, or better yet, a business

card with an address.

A Taxis take credit cards and IC passes.

Ride Sharing Apps

Tokyo strictly regulates ride-sharing apps: only licensed chauffeurs can offer

rides, meaning you’re more likely to summon a town car that costs more

than a regular taxi.

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

Mt Fuji & Fuji Five Lakes

Mt Fuji

Yokohama

Kamakura

Hakone

Hakone-Yumoto

Miyanoshita & Kowakidani

Chōkoku-no-Mori & Gōra

Sōun-zan & Sengokuhara

Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone

Izu Peninsula

Atami

Itō

Shimoda

Shirahama

Kisami

Dōgashima

Shuzen-ji Onsen

Izu Islands

Ō-shima

Nii-jima

Shikine-jima

Hachijō-jima

Chichibu & Oku-Tama

Takao-san

Oku-Tama

Nikkō & Around

Nikkō

Chūzen-ji Onsen

Yumoto Onsen

Narita

Ogasawara Archipelago

Chichi-jima

Haha-jima

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

Why Go?

Once you’ve succumbed to Tokyo’s manifold pleasures, and the capital has

chewed you up, Godzilla-style, worry not: there’s a whole other world out

there, where spiritual sanctuaries, invigorating hot springs and idyllic natural

scenery awaits; and most of it is less than two hours away from the city.

Rambling country ryokan (traditional Japanese inns), laid-back surf beaches,

pristine lakes and cedar-lined trails are some of the delights in store, as well as

the symbol of Japan itself, mighty Mt Fuji. There’s history here too, including a

medieval capital and ports that were among the first to open to the West.

Getting around is a relative breeze, with ferries and flights providing easy

access to the volcanic Izu Islands. But if you’re really looking to get away, then

set sail for the World Heritage–listed Ogasawara Archipelago, a natural

sanctuary 1000km south of Tokyo where you can spot whales and swim with

dolphins.

When to Go

Apr & May Experience the flush of spring in the mountains north and west of

Tokyo.

Jul & Aug The official season for Mt Fuji climbing and beach-hopping around

the Izu Peninsula.

Sep–Nov Pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds, save when the autumn

leaves blaze red.

Best Places to Eat

A Gyōshintei

A Araiya

A Gorosaya

A Matsubara-an

A Sanrokuen

Best Places to Stay

A K’s House Itō Onsen

A Arai Ryokan

A Guesthouse Tenmaku

A Hitsuki Guesthouse

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo Highlights

1 Mt Fuji Watching the sunrise from the majestic summit of Japan’s

highest mountain and national symbol.

2 Nikkō Taking in the grandeur of old Edo at this dazzling shrine complex

amid pristine nature.

3 Kamakura Resetting your senses in the Zen temples of Japan’s medieval

capital.

4 Hakone Hopping between onsen, art museums and hiking trails while

enjoying gorgeous scenery.

5 Izu Peninsula Flip-flopping between sandy beaches and seaside hot

springs.

6 Yokohama Sampling craft beer, contemporary art and jazz tunes in this

cosmopolitan port city.

7 Mitake Hiking at Mitake-san, on the mountainous and forested western

edge of Tokyo.

8 Ogasawara Archipelago Truly getting away from it all and back to

nature on this pristine, subtropical island chain.

8 Getting There & Away

The greater Tokyo area is well served by trains going to and from the city; it’s

not as easy to get between places without having to double back to a transit

hub. Useful train lines:

JR Chuō line Runs west from Tokyo; transfer at various stations for

connecting trains to Takao-san, Oku-Tama and Fuji Five Lakes. The Chuō line

continues on to destinations in Nagano Prefecture, but it’s a long ride.

JR Tokaidō main line Runs south from Tokyo to Yokohama, then southwest

to Odawara (transfer for trains to Hakone) and Atami, the gateway to the Izu

Peninsula. Both Odawara and Atami are also stops on the Tokaidō shinkansen

(bullet train), which continues west to Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima.

JR Yokosuka line Runs south from Tokyo to Kamakura via Yokohama.

Odakyu line Runs southwest from Shinjuku, on the west side of Tokyo, to

Hakone.

Tobu Nikkō line Runs north from Asakusa, on the east side of Tokyo, to

Nikkō.

For direct access to Mt Fuji, express buses, which depart from Shinjuku, are

the most convenient.

The Izu Islands are a ferry, hydrofoil or plane ride away, either from Tokyo

or towns along the Izu Peninsula. The only way to get to the Ogasawara

Archipelago is via a 24-hour-long ferry trip from Tokyo.

MT FUJI & FUJI FIVE LAKES 富士五湖

%0555

Japan’s highest and most famous peak is the big draw of the Fuji Five Lakes

(富士五湖) region, but even if you don’t intend to climb Fuji-san, it’s still

worth coming here to enjoy the great outdoors around the volcano’s northern

foothills, and to admire the mountain photogenically reflected in the lakes.

Culture buffs can also delve into the fascinating history of Mt Fuji worship at

several sites.

Yamanaka-ko is the easternmost lake, followed by Kawaguchi-ko, Sai-ko,

Shōji-ko and Motosu-ko. Particularly during the kōyō (autumn foliage season)

season, the lakes make a good overnight trip out of Tokyo for leisurely

strolling, lake activities and hiking in the nearby mountains.

8 Getting There & Away

The Fuji Five Lakes area is most easily reached from Tokyo by bus or train,

with Fuji-Yoshida and Kawaguchi-ko being the principal gateways. It’s also

possible to bus in from Tokyo straight to the Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station

(alternatively known as Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station or Yoshidaguchi Fifth

Station) on the mountain during the official climbing season. If you want to

combine travel to Mt Fuji and Hakone, consider the Fuji Hakone Pass from

Tokyo.

Coming from western Japan (Kyoto, Osaka), you can take an overnight bus

to Kawaguchi-ko.

BUS

Frequent Keiō Dentetsu (%03-5376-2222; www.highwaybus.com) and Fujikyū Express (%0555-72-6877; http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp) buses (¥1750, 1 ¾ hours) run directly to Kawaguchi-ko Station, and to Fujisan Station in Fuji-Yoshida, from the

Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (バスタ新宿; %03-5376-2222; www.highway-

buses.jp; Shinjuku Station; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit).

Coming from Western Japan, the overnight bus departs from Osaka’s

Higashi-Umeda Subway Station (¥8700, 10.15pm) via Kyoto Station (¥8200,

11.18pm) to Kawaguchi-ko Station (arrives 8.37am).

TRAIN

JR Chūō line trains go from Shinjuku to Ōtsuki ( tokkyū ¥2770, one hour; futsū

¥1320, 1½ hours), where you transfer to the Fuji Kyūkō line for Fujisan (the

station for Fuji-Yoshida; ¥1020, one hour) and Kawaguchi-ko (¥1140, one hour

and five minutes).

8 Getting Around

If you’re relying on public transport, note that some inns may offer pick-up

service from the nearest train station; enquire when booking.

BUS

The Fuji Lakes Sightseeing Bus (two-day passes adult/child ¥1500/750) has

three looping routes that start and finish at Kawaguchi-ko Station, with

numbered stops for all the sightseeing spots around the western lakes. It’s a

hop-on, hop-off service with buses every 15 to 30 minutes (seasonal). Pick up

the excellent map and timetable from Kawaguchi-ko Station, where patient

English-speaking staff can answer all sightseeing bus-related queries. The red

line follows Kawaguchi-ko’s northern shore and western area, the green line

goes around Sai-ko and Aokigahara, and the blue line travels around Shōji-ko

to the eastern end of Motosu-ko.

Buses run from both Kawaguchi-ko Station and Fujisan Station to the Fuji

Subaru Line Fifth Station roughly mid-April to early December.

From Fujisan Station it’s an eight-minute bus ride (¥240) to Kawaguchi-ko

Station.

CAR

You’ll find a branch of Toyota Rent-a-Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-72-1100, in English 0800-7000-815; 4657 Funatsu; h8am-8pm) a few minutes’ walk from Kawaguchiko Station; head east from the station then bear right when you hit the main

road.

TRAIN

The train is useful for making the short hop between Kawaguchi-ko and Fuji-

Yoshida, and also for reaching Fuji-Q Highland amusement park.

Mt Fuji 富士山

Of all Japan’s iconic images, Mt Fuji ( MAP ; 富士山; 3776m; www.fujisan-climb.jp; recommended donation per climber ¥1000) is the real deal. Admiration for the mountain

appears in Japan’s earliest recorded literature, dating from the 8th century. Fuji-

san was granted Unesco World Heritage status in 2013; these days, around

300,000 people make the ascent every year.

The Japanese proverb ‘He who climbs Mt Fuji once is a wise man, he who

climbs it twice is a fool’ remains as valid as ever. While reaching the top brings

a great sense of achievement (particularly at sunrise), be aware that it’s a

gruelling climb not known for its beautiful scenery or for being at one with

nature. During the climbing season routes are packed, and its barren,

apocalyptic-looking landscape is a world away from Fuji’s beauty when

viewed from afar. At the summit, the crater has a circumference of 4km, but be

prepared for it to be clouded over.

Climbing Mt Fuji

The mountain is divided into 10 ‘stations’ from base (First Station) to summit

(Tenth). The original pilgrim trail runs from the base station, but these days

most climbers start from the halfway point at one of the four active Fifth

Stations, all of which can be accessed via bus or car. The intersection of trails

is not well marked and it’s easy to get lost, particularly on the way down,

ending up at the wrong exit point; this is a good reason to climb with

experienced guides.

To time your arrival for dawn you can either start up in the afternoon, stay

overnight in a mountain hut and continue early in the morning, or climb the

whole way at night. You do not want to arrive on the top too long before dawn,

as it will be very cold and windy, even at the height of summer.

Fifth Station Routes

Around 90% of climbers opt for these more convenient, faster routes. The four

routes are Yoshida Trail (2305m), Subashiri (1980m), Fujinomiya (2380m) and

Gotemba (1440m). Allow five to six hours to reach the summit (though some

climb it in half the time) and about three hours to descend, plus 1½ hours for

circling the crater at the top.

The Yoshida Trail is by far and away the most popular route. It’s accessed

from Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (aka Kawaguchiko Fifth Station), and has

the most modern facilities and is easiest to reach from Kawaguchi-ko town.

The less trodden, but more scenic, forested Subashiri Trail is a good

alternative. As it merges with the Yoshida Trail at the Eighth Station, it’s

possible to combine the two by heading up via the Yoshida path and

descending via Subashiri by schussing down its loose volcanic sand. Though

be aware you’ll end up at Subashiri Fifth Station, so it might not be an option if

you’ve parked your car at Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station.

Other Fifth Stations are Fujinomiya, which is best for climbers coming from

the west (Nagoya, Kyoto and beyond) and the seldom-used and neglected

Gotemba Trail, a tough 7½-hour climb to the summit.

Yoshidaguchi Trail

Historically, Fuji pilgrims began at Sengen-jinja near present-day Fuji-Yoshida,

paying their homage to the shrine gods before beginning their 19km ascent up

the sacred mountain. Today the Yoshidaguchi Trail offers climbers a chance to

participate in this centuries-old tradition. Purists will tell you this is the only

way to climb, saying that the lower reaches are the most beautiful, through lush

forests along an isolated path.

It takes about five hours to reach the old Yoshidaguchi Fifth Station – you

can cut this down by half by catching the climbing-season bus from Fujisan

Station to Umagaeshi (¥500).

The trail meets up with the one leaving from the Fuji Subaru Line Fifth

Station at the Sixth Station. Count on around 12 hours to complete the climb

from Fuji’s base to summit.

Mt Fuji Area

1 Top Sights

1 Fuji Sengen-jinja

B4

2 Mt Fuji

C3

3 Togawa-ke Oshi-no-ie Restored Pilgrim’s Inn

B4

1 Sights

4 Churei-tō Pagoda

B3

5 Fugaku Fuketsu

B2

6 Fujisan World Heritage Center

A4

7 Fujiyama Art Museum

A4

8 Ide Sake Brewery

A3

9 Kanadorii

B4

10 Kōyō-dai

B1

11 Kubota Itchiku Art Museum

C1

12 Narusawa Hyōketsu

B2

13 Sai-ko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba

B1

14 Sai-ko Kōmoriana

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

15 Aokigahara Forest

B2

16 Fuji-Q Highland

A4

17 Kachi-Kachi Yama Ropeway

A3

18 Panorama-dai

A1

4 Sleeping

19 Fuji Lake Hotel

A3

20 Fujisan Hotel

C3

21 Higashi Fuji Lodge

C3

22 Hitsuki Guesthouse

B4

23 Kawaguchi-ko Station Inn

A3

24 Kōan Motosu Inn

A2

Kozantei Ubuya

(see 31)

25 K’s House Mt Fuji

A3

26 Maisan-chi

B4

27 Mt Fuji Hostel Michael’s

B3

28 Saiko Camp Village Gnome

B1

29 Sunnide Resort

C1

30 Taishikan

C3

31 Tominoko Hotel

C1

5 Eating

32 Hōtō Fudō

A4

33 Idaten

A3

Michael’s American Pub

(see 27)

34 Sakurada Udon

B4

35 Sanrokuen

A3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

36 Sky Bar Moon Dance

C1

8 Information

37 Fuji-Yoshida Tourist Information Center

B4

38 Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Center

A3

8 Transport

39 Toyota Rent-a-Car

A3

T Tours

Fuji Mountain Guides

HIKING

(%042-445-0798; www.fujimountainguides.com; 2-day Mt Fuji tours per person ¥48,600)

Aimed at foreign visitors, these excellent tours are run both in and out of

season by highly experienced and very professional bilingual American guides.

Transport to and from Tokyo, mountain guide, two meals and one night in a

mountain hut is included; gear rental is available for extra.

Tours use the Subashiri Trail which is less crowded, but slightly longer, than

the more common Yoshida Trail.

Fuji Mountain Guides can also assist independent travellers in making

reservations at mountain huts for a fee of ¥1000 per booking.

Discover Japan Tours

HIKING

(www.discover-japan-tours.com; tours per person from ¥10,000)

Reputable company running self-guided overnight treks to/from Shinjuku,

timed for sunrise arrival, on summer Saturdays, with a stop at a public hot

spring on the way back. Groups of up to eight can arrange a private tour

(¥60,000) any day of the week, including outside the climbing season.

Fujiyama Guides

TOURS

(%0555-23-7554; www.fujiyamaguides.com; 1/2 people 2-day tours from ¥84,000/92,000, 3-day tours

¥149,000/156,000)

As well as standard two-day ascents of Fuji, this company also offers three-day

pilgrim tours starting at Fuji Sengen-jinja. Prices do not include

accommodation fees.

MT FUJI: KNOW BEFORE YOU CLIMB

Make no mistake: Mt Fuji is a serious mountain, high enough for altitude sickness, and on the

summit it can go from sunny and warm to wet, windy and cold remarkably quickly. Even if

conditions are fine, you can count on it being close to freezing in the morning, even in summer.

Also be aware that visibility can rapidly disappear with a blanket of mist rolling in suddenly.

At a minimum, bring clothing appropriate for cold and wet weather, including a hat and gloves.

Also bring at least 2L of water (you can buy more on the mountain during the climbing season), as

well as a map and snacks. If you’re climbing at night, bring a torch (flashlight) or headlamp, and

spare batteries. Also bring plenty of cash for buying snacks, other necessities and souvenirs from

the mountain huts and to use their toilets (¥200).

Descending the mountain is much harder on the knees than ascending; hiking poles will help. To

avoid altitude sickness, be sure to take it slowly and take regular breaks. If you’re suffering severe

symptoms, you’ll need to make an immediate descent.

For summit conditions, see www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Mount-Fuji/6day/top.

4 Sleeping & Eating

From the Fifth Stations up, dozens of mountain huts offer hikers simple hot

meals in addition to a place to sleep. Most huts allow you to rest inside as long

as you order something.

Conditions in mountain huts are spartan (a blanket on the floor sandwiched

between other climbers), but reservations are recommended and are essential

on weekends. It’s also important to let huts know if you decide to cancel at the

last minute; be prepared to pay to cover the cost of your no-show.

Camping on the mountain is not permitted, other than at the designated

campsite near the Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station.

Higashi Fuji Lodge

LODGE

¥

( MAP ; 東富士山荘; %0555-75-2113; www4.tokai.or.jp/yamagoya; per person from ¥5000)

This atmospheric rest hut at the Subashiri Fifth Station is convenient for off-

season trekkers on Mt Fuji, and cooks up steaming soba (buckwheat noodles)

with local mushrooms and Fuji herbs.

Taishikan

HUT

¥

( MAP ; 太子館; %0555-22-1947; www.mfi.or.jp/w3/home0/taisikan; per person incl 2 meals from

¥8500)

One of several rest huts open during the climbing season on Mt Fuji, located at

the Eighth Station of the Yoshida Trail. There is usually some English-speaking

staff here, warm sleeping bags are provided, and vegetarian or halal meals are

available if requested in advance. Reservations accepted from 1 April. Cash

only.

Fujisan Hotel

HUT

¥

( MAP ; 富士山ホテル; %late Jun–mid-Sep 0555-24-6512, reservations 0555-22-0237;

www.fujisanhotel.com; per person with/without 2 meals from ¥8350/5950; n)

One of the largest and most popular rest huts open on Mt Fuji during the

climbing season, the Fujisan Hotel is at the Eighth Station where the Yoshida

and Subashiri Trails meet. There’s usually some English-speaking staff here.

Bookings are accepted from 1 April and are highly recommended. Credit cards

accepted.

8 Information

Free wi-fi is available at Fifth Station access points and the summit, for 72

hours after you’ve acquired an access card at one of the Fifth Station

information centres.

8 Getting There & Away

For those wanting to start trekking as soon as they arrive from Tokyo, Keiō

Dentetsu runs direct buses (¥2700, 2½ hours; reservations necessary) from the

Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal to Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (aka

Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station; it does not operate in winter).

Buses run from both Kawaguchi-ko and Fujisan Stations to the starting point

at Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (one way/return ¥1540/2100, one hour),

roughly mid-April to early December. In the trekking season, buses depart

hourly from around 6.30am until 7pm (ideal for climbers intending to make an

overnight ascent). Returning from Fifth Station, buses head back to town from

8am to 8.30pm.

In the low season, the first bus inconveniently leaves Kawaguchi-ko and

Fujisan Stations at 8.50am, meaning most trekkers will need to get a taxi in the

morning to have enough time (around ¥12,000, plus ¥2100 in tolls), before

getting the bus back. The bus schedule is highly seasonal; call Fujikyū Express

or your hotel for details.

In the low season you should be able to find other trekkers to share a taxi at

hostels such as K’s House. Car hire is another option (particularly good if

you’re in a group), costing around ¥6800 per day plus fuel and tolls.

To get to the Subashiri Fifth Station trail, you can catch a bus from

Kawaguchi-ko to Gotemba (¥1510), from where regular buses head to the

Subashiri access point; Gotemba can also be accessed directly from Tokyo

either by bus or train.

Fuji-Yoshida 富士吉田

%0555 / POP 50,426

Fuji-Yoshida (富士吉田) was once teeming with oshi-no-ie (pilgrims’ inns)

where Fuji worshippers stayed before climbing the mountain, though these

days only one or two still operate. There is more historic atmosphere here than

at Kawaguchi-ko, but it’s less convenient for sightseeing in the Fuji Five Lakes

area. The central district, Gekkō-ji (月江寺), feels like the little town that time

forgot, with original mid-20th-century facades. Fujisan Station is in the centre

of Fuji-Yoshida, but if you’re heading straight to one of the hostels, the closer

stop is Gekkō-ji.

1 Sights & Activities

o Fuji Sengen-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 冨士浅間神社; %0555-22-0221; www.sengenjinja.jp; 5558 Kami-Yoshida; hgrounds 24hr, staffed 9am-5pm) F

A necessary preliminary to the Mt Fuji ascent is a visit to this atmospheric

shrine (8th century, rebuilt 1800s) dedicated to Sakuya-hime, the goddess of

the mountain. An avenue of towering cedars leads to the main gate, which is

rebuilt every 60 years (slightly larger each time); and its two one-tonne mikoshi

(portable shrines), used in the annual Yoshida no Himatsuri festival. From

Fujisan Station it’s a 20-minute uphill walk, or take a bus to Sengen-jinja-mae

(¥150, five minutes).

o Togawa-ke Oshi-no-ie Restored Pilgrim’s Inn

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 御師旧外川家住宅; 3-14-8 Kami-Yoshida; adult/child ¥100/50; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon)

Fuji-Yoshida’s oshi-no-ie have served visitors to the mountain since the days

when climbing Mt Fuji was a pilgrimage rather than a tourist event. Very few

still function as inns but Togawa-ke Oshi-no-ie, dating to 1768 and

wonderfully preserved, evokes the fascinating Edo-era practice of Mt Fuji

worship, back when up to 100 pilgrims at a time would have shared the tatami

floors here en route to the mountain. The audio guide is recommended.

Kanadorii

GATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金鳥居) A symbol of Mt Fuji worship, this gate was first constructed in 1788 (though

the present one dates to 1955), and in clear weather frames picture-postcard

views of the mountain. Stroll uphill through the gate and you’ll pass the old

entranceways of o shi-no-ie (pilgrims’ inns), though only one or two still

operate. It’s a two-minute walk southeast of Fujisan Station.

Churei-tō Pagoda

VIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 忠霊塔パゴダ)

One of the classic Fuji postcard views has this five-tiered red pagoda in the

foreground surrounded by cherry blossoms. It’s actually a war memorial,

accessed via a breathless set of 400 steps rising up through Sengen Park on the

slopes of Arakura-yama. The park starts a few minutes up the hill from

Shimoyoshida Station.

Fujiyama Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 富士山ミュージアム; %0555-22-8223; www.fujiyama-museum.com; 5-6-1 Shintanishi; adult/child ¥1000/500; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sat & Sun)

Should the weather thwart your chances of seeing the real thing, this

contemporary gallery space contains a fine collection of Mt Fuji paintings by

prominent Japanese artists, ranging from the romantic to the avantgarde. It’s

just outside the south entrance to the Fuji-Q Highland amusement park.

Fuji-Q Highland

AMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fujiq.jp; 5-6-1 Shin-Nishihara; day passes adult/child ¥5700/4300; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun)

The extreme roller coasters at this amusement park are not for the faint of heart

– though they are a memorable way to bag Fuji views. Thomas Land, based on

Thomas the Tank Engine, slows it down for the little ones, and there’s also a

resort hotel, onsen and shops. Fun for all the family, one stop west of Fujisan

Station.

Admission to the park is free (you still have to obtain an entrance ticket at

the booth), with individual rides costing between ¥800 and ¥2000. Get the day

pass if you plan on going on more than a couple of rides.

OUTDOOR GEAR RENTAL

Want to climb Mt Fuji (or any other mountain), but don’t want to invest in (or schlep) all the

requisite gear? Yamadōgu Rental (やまどうぐレンタル屋; %050-5865-1615;

www.yamarent.com; 6th fl, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat Sep-May, noon-7pm Wed-Mon Jun, 6.30am-7pm every day Jul & Aug; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west

exit) in Tokyo can set you up with individual items (shoes, poles, rain jacket etc) or a full kit

including a backpack from ¥10,500 for two days. Most of the gear is from Japanese outdoor brand

Montbell.

You can rent directly from the shop (same-day rental is possible, pending availability) or place

an order online and have the gear shipped to your accommodation. During the Fuji climbing

season, they have a shop at the Fifth Station of the popular Yoshida Trail where you can return

your gear after coming down the mountain. All the details are online in English.

z Festivals & Events

Yoshida no Himatsuri

CULTURAL

(Yoshida Fire Festival; h26-27 Aug)

This annual festival is held to mark the end of the climbing season and to offer

thanks for the safety of the year’s climbers. The first day involves a mikoshi

procession and the lighting of bonfires on Fuji-Yoshida’s main street. On the

second day, the focus is at Sengen-jinja.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Hitsuki Guesthouse

HISTORIC HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080-1525-9125; hitsukiguesthouse@gmail.com; 7-12-16 Kami-Yoshida; r per person from ¥4000; nW)

Just about the only remaining Fuji o shi-no-ie you can still stay in. The young

owner is both a carpenter (hence the lovingly restored 440-year-old building)

and an 18th-generation oshi (Shintō priest associated with Fuji worship). Stay

as countless pilgrims before you: sleeping on tatami in rooms partitioned by

shōji (sliding-screen doors).

o Maisan-chi

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; まいさんち; %0555-24-5328; www.maisan-chi.com; 4-6-46 Shimo-Yoshida; dm/d with shared bathroom, incl breakfast ¥3000/8000; nW)

On a quiet backstreet, this excellent choice combines an old Japanese-style

house (where guests have breakfast) and a new build behind it housing

fabulous capsule-style beds with paper-screen doors and windows, three

private rooms, and a shared kitchen/lounge with Fuji views. The English-

speaking owner also has bicycles to rent.

You need to pay in cash for your stay to qualify for the included breakfast

(Japanesestyle or fresh waffles).

Mt Fuji Hostel Michael’s

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-72-9139; www.mfi.or.jp/mtfujihostel; 2F 3-21-37 Shimo-Yoshida; dm/s/d

¥3000/3600/7200; naW)

Though this efficiently run, clean, Western-style hostel has no self-catering

facilities or common space, it’s upstairs from the expat and local favourite

Michael’s American Pub ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; マイケルズアメリカンパブ; meals ¥600-1200; h11.30am-4pm Sun-Fri, 6pm-2am Fri-Wed), which serves reasonably

priced Western and Japanese food. The English-speaking staff can also

recommend some great local places to eat.

Sakurada Udon

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 桜井うどん; %0555-22-2797; 5-1-33 Shimo-Yoshida; noodles ¥350; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat)

Just off the main drag, this tiny shop is a good spot to sample the local te-uchi

udon (handmade wheat-flour noodles) while sitting cross-legged on tatami.

Look for the blue noren (curtains) over the door.

8 Information

Fuji-Yoshida Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-22-7000; h9am-5pm) Next to Fujisan (Mt Fuji) train station; the clued-up staff can provide

info on climbing, as well as brochures and maps of the area.

TOP VIEWS OF MT FUJI

Mt Fuji has many different personalities depending on the season. Winter and spring months are

your best bet for seeing it in all its clichéd glory; although even during these times the snowcapped

peak may be visible only in the morning before it retreats behind its cloud curtain. Its elusiveness,

however, is part of the appeal, making sightings all the more special. Here are some of our top

spots for viewing, both in the immediate and greater area:

Kawaguchi-ko On the north side of the lake, where Fuji looms large over its shimmering reflection.

Motosu-ko The famous view depicted on the ¥1000 bill can be seen from the northwest side of the

lake.

Hakone The mountain soars in the background of Ashino-ko and the red torii (shrine gate) rising

from the water.

Izu Peninsula Journey along the west coast to catch glimpses of Fuji and the ocean, bathed in

glorious sunsets.

Panorama-dai The end of this hiking trail rewards you with a magnificent front-on view of the

mountain.

Kōyō-dai Mt Fuji can be seen from this lookout, particularly stunning in the autumn colours.

Kawaguchi-ko 河口湖

%0555 / POP 25,742

Even if you have no plans to climb Mt Fuji, the sprawling town of Kawaguchi-

ko (河口湖), set around the lake of the same name, is a great base to hang out

and enjoy all that the Fuji Five Lakes region has to offer, particularly as the

three Fuji sightseeing bus lines all start from Kawaguchi-ko Station.

1 Sights & Activities

Kubota Itchiku Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 久保田一竹美術館; %0555-76-8811; www.itchiku-museum.com; 2255 Kawaguchi; adult/child ¥1300/400; h9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Nov, 10am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Dec-Mar)

In a Gaudí-influenced building above the lake, this charming museum displays

the kimono art of Kubota Itchiku (1917–2003). You might see Mt Fuji in the

wintertime, or the cherry blossoms of spring spread across oversized kimonos

that have been painstakingly dyed, embroidered and hand-painted. The red-line

bus stops here.

Fujisan World Heritage Center

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 富士ビジターセンター; %0555-72-5502; www.fujisan-whc.jp; 6663-1

Funatsu; adult/child ¥420/free; h8.30am-5pm, to 6pm or 7pm in peak season, closed 4th Tue of month)

The flashy South Hall of this visitor centre has imaginative, interactive displays

detailing the spiritual and geological history of the mountain, as well as a

dramatic video installation projected onto a fabric Mt Fuji suspended across the

exhibition hall. The blue-line bus stops here. An observation deck at the North

Hall (free) affords great views of Mt Fuji.

Ide Sake Brewery

BREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 井出醸造; %0555-72-0006; www.kainokaiun.jp; 8 Funatsu; tours ¥500) This small-scale brewery has been producing sake using Mt Fuji spring water

for 21 generations. Tours (9.30am and 3pm; 40 minutes) provide a fascinating

insight into the production process and include tastings and a souvenir glass.

Reservations essential for English tours.

Kachi-Kachi Yama Ropeway

CABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カチカチ山ロープウェイ; www.kachikachiyama-ropeway.com; 1163-1 Azagawa; one way/return adult ¥450/800, child ¥230/400; h9am-5pm)

On the lower eastern edge of the lake, this ropeway runs to the panoramic Fuji

Viewing Platform (1104m). There’s a hiking trail back down, or you can

consider making the six-hour return hike from the top to Mitsutōge-yama (三

つ峠山; 1785m); it’s an old trail with excellent Fuji views. Ask at Kawaguchi-

ko Tourist Information Center for a map. The red-line bus stops here.

4 Sleeping

Kawaguchi-ko Station Inn

INN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 河口湖ステーションイン; %0555-72-0015; www.st-inn.com; 3639-2

Funatsu; dm/s/d ¥2800/4200/8400; pnaiW)

Directly across from Kawaguchi-ko Station is this cosy inn offering 16 great-

value tatami rooms, a mixed dorm, English-speaking staff, a downstairs cafe

and a fab top-floor bath looking out to Mt Fuji in the distance (also open to

nonguests, ¥600). Note the 11pm curfew.

K’s House Mt Fuji

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-83-5556; www.kshouse.jp; 6713-108 Funatsu; dm from ¥2500, d

with/without bathroom from ¥8800/7200; pniW)

A popular place to hook up with other climbers, K’s offers basic

accommodation with plenty of common space and a large kitchen, though the

‘deluxe’ capsule dorms are rather cramped. Well-drilled staff can arrange a

station pick-up, as it’s a bit of a walk. If it’s full, try its other location, K’s

House Fuji View, 1.5km due south.

Tominoko Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 富ノ湖ホテル; %0555-72-5080; www.tominoko.net; 55 Asakawa; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥9180; paiW)

Given its views of Fuji across the lake, this retro hotel is a steal. Rooms are

smart, Western-style twins with plenty of space, and all face the lake. Ask for

one on an upper level to score a balcony. Also has a rotemburo (outdoor bath).

Buffet meal packages aren’t a bad idea here, as there are few restaurants

nearby and buses stop running in the early evening.

Sunnide Resort

HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; サニーデリゾート; %0555-76-6004; www.sunnide.com; 2549-1 Ōishi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥10,000, cottages excl meals from ¥13,000; pnaiW)

Offering views of Mt Fuji from the far side of Kawaguchi-ko, this homely

complex has a wide range of accommodation, from basic twins to stylish

suites, plus cottages that sleep up to four. A highlight is the bath complex

looking out to Fuji across the lake (no tattoos permitted in baths). The red-line

sightseeing bus stops here.

Note that in winter a heating surcharge of ¥3000 is tacked on to cottage

rates.

o Kozantei Ubuya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 湖山亭うぶや; %0555-72-1145; www.ubuya.co.jp; 10 Asakawa; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥29,310, with outdoor tub from ¥39,030; pnaiW)

Elegant and ultrastylish, Ubuya offers panoramic views of Mt Fuji reflected in

the lake that are simply unbeatable. Splash out on the more expensive suites to

savour the scene while soaking in an outdoor tub on your balcony. One for

honeymooners. The red-line sightseeing bus stops here.

Fuji Lake Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 富士レークホテル; %0555-72-2209; www.fujilake.co.jp; 1 Funatsu; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥19,440; paiWs)

On Kawaguchi-ko’s south shore, this sprawling vintage hotel (c 1932) offers

either Mt Fuji or lake views from its Japanese-Western combo rooms. Some

rooms have a private rotemburo; otherwise there’s a common onsen and an

outdoor swimming pool with lake views. Meals comprise a buffet-style

breakfast and kaiseki dinner.

A free shuttle bus runs to and from Kawaguchi-ko Station.

5 Eating & Drinking

While in Kawaguchi-ko, be sure to try some hōtō, the local speciality of extra-

thick wheat noodles in a hearty miso stock.

Idaten

TEMPURA

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いだ天; %0555-73-9218; 3486-4 Funatsu; meals from ¥800; h11am-10pm) Load up on some delicious, deep-fried goodness pre- or post-hike at the Idaten

counter, where you can watch the chefs prepare your tempura to order. Aside

from Instagrammable Fujisan-themed sets (tempura arranged like a mountain)

you can also order à la carte.

o Sanrokuen

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山麓園; %0555-73-1000; 3370-1 Funatsu; set meals ¥2160-4320; h11am-7.30pm Fri-Wed)

In this beautiful old thatched building, diners sit on the floor around traditional

irori charcoal pits grilling their own meals – skewers of fish, meat, tofu and

veggies. From Kawaguchi-ko Station, go west, then bear left (south) after the

7-Eleven; after 600m you’ll spot the thatched roof on the west side of the road.

Reservations strongly recommended.

Hōtō Fudō

NOODLES

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ほうとう不動; %0555-72-8511; www.houtoufudou.jp; 707 Kawaguchi;

hōtō ¥1080; h11am-7pm)

Hōtō are Kawaguchi-ko’s local noodles, hand-cut and served in a thick miso

stew with pumpkin, sweet potato and other vegetables. It’s a hearty meal best

sampled at this chain with five branches around town. This is the most

architecturally interesting one, an igloolike building in which you can also

sample basashi – horsemeat sashimi (¥1080).

There’s also a convenient branch directly opposite Kawaguchi-ko Station.

o Sky Bar Moon Dance

ROOFTOP BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-72-1234; www.mzn.co.jp; 187 Azagawa; h4-10.30pm Apr-Sep; W) When conditions are just right at this open-air rooftop bar, lights twinkling on

the far shore of Kawaguchi-ko and mighty Fuji-san swathed in evening mist,

you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else in the world. Find it in the Mizno, a

stylish boutique hotel on the hillside above the east shore of the lake.

8 Information

Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Center ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-72-6700; h8.30am-5.30pm) To the right as you exit Kawaguchi-ko Station, the TIC has

English speakers as well as maps, brochures, discount coupons and info about

several public onsen in the area.

Sai-ko 紅葉台

Sai-ko (紅葉台) is a quiet lake area good for hiking, fishing and boating. Mt

Fuji is mostly obstructed but there are great views from the Kōyō-dai lookout

and from the western end of the lake. On the south side of the lake there are

several interesting lava caves to explore, and hiking trails through Aokigahara

Forest.

1 Sights & Activities

Sai-ko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba

CULTURAL CENTRE

( MAP ; 西湖いやしの里根場; %0555-20-4677; 2710 Nenba; adult/child ¥350/150; h9am-5pm,

to 4.30pm Dec-Feb)

On a serene wooded hillside facing Mt Fuji is this faithful re-creation of a

peasant village that was washed away by a landslide in 1966. Visitors can

wander in and out of the dozen or so thatched houses, some of which have

museum displays, craft workshops and restaurants. The green-line bus has a

stop here.

Sai-ko Kōmoriana

CAVE

( MAP ; 西湖コウモリ穴, Bat Cave; 2068 Sai-ko; adult/child ¥300/100; h9am-5pm)

Despite being known as the Bat Cave, this 350m-long complex has neither bats

nor caped crusaders. Nevertheless, it’s still fun to scramble over the ancient

lava flows, and in the car park you’ll find a trailhead for marked hikes through

Aokigahara Forest, including a 3km tramp to Fugaku Fuketsu. The green-line

bus stops here.

Fugaku Fuketsu

CAVE

( MAP ; 富岳風穴; %0555-85-2300; 2068-1 Aokigahara; adult/child ¥350/150; h9am-4.30pm)

The Wind Cave (also known as the Lava Cave) was used to store silk-worm

cocoons in the past. Getting a combination ticket for this and Narusawa

Hyōketsu makes sense, as they’re a 15-minute walk from one another, or 30

minutes if you take the woodland trail.

Narusawa Hyōketsu

CAVE

( MAP ; 鳴沢氷穴; %0555-85-2301; 8533 Narusawamura; adult/child ¥350/150; h9am-5pm)

Not for the claustrophobic, the Narusawa Hyōketsu (ice cave) was formed by

lava flows from an eruption of Mt Fuji in 864. It takes about 10 minutes to

walk through to the end to see the ice pillars, which are at their peak in April

(no ice from September to December). Only the blue-line sightseeing bus stops

here.

Kōyō-dai

VIEWPOINT

( MAP ; adult/child ¥200/150)

There are good views of Mt Fuji from this lookout building, especially popular

in autumn when the Aokigahara Forest is a sea of red. It’s a 30-minute walk

uphill from the Koyodai Ent bus stop on the blue line.

Aokigahara Forest

HIKING

( MAP ; 青木ヶ原樹海)

Aokigahara’s expanse of forest stretches from just beyond the southern shore

of Sai-ko up to the Mt Fuji treeline, with lots of opportunities for hiking –

though stick to the established trails, as you could easily get lost amid what is

aptly called the ‘Sea of Trees’. An easy jaunt is the marked 3km trail between

Sai-ko Kōmoriana and Fugaku Fuketsu.

TOKYO DAY-TRIP PLANNER

Many destinations can be done as day trips from Tokyo:

One-way travel up to an hour Yokohama, Kamakura, Mt Takao, Oku-Tama

One-way travel up to two hours Fuji Five Lakes, Hakone, Nikkō, Atami, Itō

4 Sleeping & Eating

Sai-ko is an excellent location for camping, with easy bus access to the nearby

caves and hiking trails.

If you’re self-catering, you’ll want to bring supplies from Kawaguchi-ko, as

there aren’t many shops around the lake.

Saiko Camp Village Gnome

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP ; 西湖キャンプビレッジノーム; %0555-82-2650;

www.hamayouresort.com/gnome/index.html; 1030 Sai-ko; camping per person from ¥1000, 2-night tent rental ¥5000; pW)

Ex-model and outdoors author Tokichi Kimura is the convivial English-

speaking owner of this campsite right in the centre of the lake’s north shore,

which also has barbecue facilities and canoe rental (¥3200/5400 per three

hours/day).

Note the ¥500 ‘garbage fee’ levied per group.

Motosu-ko 本栖湖

%0555, 0556 / POP 134

If you’ve ever examined the ¥1000 bill you’ll recognise the iconic view of Fuji

rising majestically from the northeast shore of Motosu-ko (本栖湖).

Superlative vistas aside, the westernmost lake of Fuji Five Lakes can make for

a peaceful escape, offering camping, kayaking, and hiking on panoramic trails

in the surrounding hills.

Blue-line buses from Kawaguchi-ko Station only go as far as the east shore

of Motosu-ko before looping back to the station. It’s a further 5km to reach the

north shore and the famous Fuji view. At the time of research, there was just

one daily bus (10.18am, 50 minutes) from Kawaguchi-ko Station (bay 4),

returning at 1.47pm.

2 Activities

Rent paddleboards (¥1500/4000 per hour/day) and kayaks (for two people

¥2000/5000 per hour/per day) from Kōan Motosu Inn.

Panorama-dai

HIKING

( MAP ; パノラマ台)

This trail ends in a spectacular, head-on view of Mt Fuji and panoramic views

of the surrounding lakes and mountains. Midway through, stop at the signed

viewpoint to spot Fuji-san between the trees. It’s a one-hour hike through the

woods from the trailhead, which starts at the Panoramadai-shita bus stop. Take

a blue-line bus (38 minutes from Kawaguchi-ko).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Camping is the way to go on Motosu-ko, but you’ll usually need your own tent

and sleeping bags (most venues provide a tarp and can rent other gear like

stoves, barbecues and even kayaks).

Local shops will have some basics, but you’re best arriving with all the

groceries you’ll need.

Kōan Motosu Inn

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP ; 浩庵キャンプ場; %0556-38-0117; www.kouan-motosuko.com; 2926 Nakanokura; camping per person ¥600, tent pitch ¥1000, 6-person cabins from ¥17,280; p)

Kōan has two campgrounds on the lake; this one on the northeast corner has

fine Fuji views, a jacuzzi, a helpful English-speaking owner and an attached

restaurant and shop, as well as three cabins should you not wish to camp.

Reservations are not required (or accepted) for camping; just show up.

Having a car is the most convenient way to get to Kōan Motosu Inn;

otherwise take the once-daily bus from Kawaguchi-ko Station to the lake’s

north shore.

YOKOHAMA 横浜

%045 / POP 3.7 MILLION

Even though it’s just a 30-minute train ride south of central Tokyo, Yokohama

(横浜) has an appealing flavour and history all its own. Locals are likely to cite

the uncrowded, walkable streets or neighbourhood atmosphere as the main

draw, but for visitors it’s the breezy bay front, creative arts scene, multiple

microbreweries, jazz clubs and great international dining.

History

Up until the mid-19th century, Yokohama was an unassuming fishing village.

Things started to change rapidly, however, in 1853, when the American fleet

under Commodore Matthew Perry arrived off the coast to persuade Japan to

open to foreign trade.

From 1858, when it was designated an international port, through to the

early 20th century, Yokohama served as a gateway for foreign influence and

ideas. Among the city’s firsts in Japan: a daily newspaper, gas lamps and a

train terminus (connected to Shimbashi in Tokyo).

The Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923 destroyed much of the city, but the

rubble was used to reclaim more land, including Yamashita-kōen. The city was

devastated yet again in WWII air raids; occupation forces were initially based

here but later moved down the coast to Yokosuka. Despite all this, central

Yokohama retains some rather fine early 20th-century buildings.

Yokohama

1 Top Sights

1 Cup Noodles Museum

D1

2 Yokohama Museum of Art

C2

1 Sights

3 Hara Model Railway Museum

A1

4 Nippon Maru Sailing Ship

D2

5 NYK Hikawa Maru

G2

6 Yamashita-kōen

F2

7 Yokohama Archives of History

F2

8 Yokohama Port Museum

D2

4 Sleeping

9 Global Cabin

G3

10 Hotel Edit

D3

11 Hotel New Grand

G2

5 Eating

12 Araiya

E2

13 Charcoal Grill Green

D3

14 Colombus Okonomiyaki

F4

15 Manchinrō Honten

F3

16 Masan-no-mise Ryūsen

F3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

17 Antenna America

D4

18 Bashamichi Jyuban-Kan

E3

19 Bashamichi Taproom

E3

20 Grassroots

A1

21 Thrashzone Meatballs

E3

3 Entertainment

Airegin

(see 19)

22 Club Sensation

D4

23 Downbeat Bar

D3

7 Shopping

24 Akarenga Sōkō

E1

8 Information

25 Chinatown 80 Information Center

G2

26 Sakuragichō Station Tourist Information

D3

27 Yokohama Convention & Visitors Bureau

F2

28 Yokohama Station Tourist Information Center

A1

1 Sights

Yokohama’s frenetic Chinatown packs some 600 speciality shops and

restaurants within a space of several blocks, marked by 10 elaborately painted

gates. Adjacent is Motomachi, a pleasant, upscale shopping and dining area

overlooked by the bluff of Yamate, the old foreign quarter where you can find

several preserved Western-style residences from the early 20th century. The

most convenient subway for all these areas is Motomachi-Chūkagai.

o Cup Noodles Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-345-0918; www.cupnoodles-museum.jp; 2-3-4 Shinkō, Naka-ku;

adult/child ¥500/free; h10am-6pm, closed Tue; c; bBashamichi)

Dedicated to the 1956 invention of instant ramen by Momofuku Ando (the

‘cup’ came in 1971), this impressively slick attraction has a host of wacky

exhibits that drive home the message to go against the grain, be creative and

‘Never give up!’. The highlight is the chance to design your own Cup Noodle

(additional ¥300) to take away.

o Yokohama Museum of Art

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 横浜美術館; %045-221-0300; www.yaf.or.jp/yma; 3-4-1 Minato Mirai,

Nishi-ku; adult/child ¥500/free; h10am-6pm, closed Thu; bMinato Mirai)

The focus of the Yokohama Triennale (2020, 2023), this museum hosts

exhibitions that swing between safe-bet shows with European headliners to

more daring contemporary Japanese and up-and-coming Southeast Asian

artists. There are also permanent works, including by Picasso, Miró and Dalí,

in the catalogue.

Hara Model Railway Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 原鉄道模型博物館; www.hara-mrm.com; 2nd fl, Yokohama Mitsui Bldg, 1-1-2 Takashima, Nishi-ku; adult/child ¥1000/500; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; dShin-takashima)

Hara Nobutaro (1919–2014) was Japan’s pre-eminent trainspotter, taking the

pastime to a typically Japanese level of obsessiveness as this superb personal

collection of model trains and other railwayassociated memorabilia shows.

Even if you don’t care much for trains, the model railway – a mammoth gauge-

one diorama of moving locomotives where you can act as train driver – is a

delight.

Nippon Maru Sailing Ship

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本丸; Yokohama Port Museum; ship & museum adult/child ¥600/300; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This magnificent, four-masted barque (built in 1930 as a training ship for naval

cadets) sits in a wet dock adjacent to the Yokohama Port Museum ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 横浜みなと博物館; www.nippon-maru.or.jp), and is fascinating to board and explore. Tickets also include entry to the museum building.

Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Museum

MUSEUM

(新横浜ラーメン博物館; %045-471-0503; www.raumen.co.jp; 2-14-21 Shin-Yokohama,

Kohoku-ku; adult/child ¥310/100, dishes around ¥900; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, from 10.30am Sun;

dShin-Yokohama)

Nine ramen restaurants from around Japan were hand-picked to sell their wares

in this theme-park-style replica of a 1958 shitamachi (downtown district) that’s

lit to feel like perpetual, festive night-time. It’s a short walk from Shin-

Yokohama station – ask for directions at the station’s information centre.

NYK Hikawa Maru

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 氷川丸; www.nyk.com; Yamashita-kōen, Naka-ku; adult/child ¥300/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bMotomachi-Chūkagai)

Moored at the eastern end of Yamashita-kōen, this 1930s luxury liner has

stories to tell from its days conveying well-heeled Japanese passengers to

Seattle, and later as a hospital ship in WWII. Inside you can see cabins (one of

the staterooms was used by Charlie Chaplin), lounges, the engine room and

bridge.

Yokohama Archives of History

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 横浜開港資料館; %045-201-2100; www.kaikou.city.yokohama.jp; 3

Nihon-ōdōri, Naka-ku; adult/child ¥200/100; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bNihon-ōdōri)

Inside the former British consulate, displays in English chronicle the saga of

Japan’s opening up at the Yokohama port following the arrival of Commodore

Matthew Perry and his persuasively well-armed steamships.

A few steps away is the all-white Yokohama Kaigan Church, the first

Protestant church in Japan, founded in 1872.

Yamashita-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山下公園周辺; 279 Yamashitachō; dMotomachi-Chūkagai)

This elegant bayside park is ideal for strolling and ship-spotting. Moored at the

eastern end is the 1930s passenger liner Hikawa Maru.

2 Activities

o Kawasaki Warehouse

AMUSEMENT PARK

(アミューズメントパーク ウェアハウス川崎店, Anata no Warehouse; 3-7 Nisshin-

cho, Kawasaki; h9am-11.45pm, from 7am Sat & Sun; dKawasaki) F

If you check out just one video-game arcade in Japan, make it this cyber-punk

styled ‘warehouse’ designed to resemble Kowloon Walled City. Step through

the smoking, hissing entranceway and up the escalators to find arcade

machines galore, as well as crane games, slots, and even pool and table tennis.

The arcade is 500m southwest of Kawasaki station. Adults only.

T Tours

Kirin Beer Yokohama Factory

TOURS

(キリンビール 横浜工場; %045-503-8250; 1-17-1 Namamugi, Tsurumi-ku; h10am-5pm Tue-

Sun; dNamamugi) F

Even teetotallers will be charmed by this surprisingly hi-tech romp through one

of the major breweries for Kirin beer. The free tour (in Japanese but with

translation cards) takes an hour to explain the various stages of beer production

with the help of touch screens and 3D goggles, finishing with a tasting of three

beers. Reserve in advance (English spoken).

Don’t miss the chance to have a meal (and more beer) in the rather fine

Spring Valley Brewery, a red-brick building on-site with an open kitchen and

tasty Western dishes paired with Kirin’s new range of craft beers. Spring Valley

Brewery was also the name of Japan’s first brewery, the precursor to Kirin,

established in Yokohama in 1869 by a Norwegian-American.

z Festivals & Events

Great Japan Beer Festival Yokohama

BEER

(www.beertaster.org; ¥5000; hApr & Sep)

Held in mid-April and mid-September over two days, the Yokohama editions

of this multi-city booze fest feature around 200 craft beers from across Japan at

locations around the city.

Yokohama Oktoberfest

BEER

(1-1 Shinkō; ¥300; hOct)

Held over two weeks at Akarenga Sōkō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 横浜赤レンガ倉

庫; www.yokohama-akarenga.jp; 1-1 Shinkō, Naka-ku; h11am-8pm; bBashamichi) in early October, this festival features dozens of beers and much carousing in the spirit

of the German festival.

4 Sleeping

Global Cabin

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

( MAP ; %045-662-1252; 166 Yamashita-cho, Chinatown; capsule from ¥3000; aW)

In the heart of Chinatown, an incense-stick toss from Kanteibyō shrine, is this

squeaky clean capsule/cabin hotel with excellent shower facilities, a cafe and

private spa rooms.

If staying more than one night, you’ll have to make yourself scarce between

10am and 3pm when the hotel gets a scrub down.

Hotel Edit

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-680-0238; http://hotel-edit.com/en; 6-78-1 Sumiyoshi-chō; s/d incl breakfast from ¥7000/8500; naW)

Priced like a business hotel but with an attractive, modern aesthetic and

English-speaking staff, Hotel Edit is an excellent choice, especially since it’s

surrounded by great places to eat and to drink craft beer. If travelling solo, note

that most of the singles lack proper windows; opt for the ‘semi-double’

category instead.

Hotel New Grand

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルニューグランド; %045-681-1841; www.hotel-newgrand.co.jp;

10 Yamashita-chō, Naka-ku; r from ¥14,500; naiW; bMotomachi-Chūkagai)

Dating from 1927, the New Grand has a prime waterfront location and elegant

old-world charm, particularly in its original lobby and lavishly decorated

ballrooms. It was once a favourite of visiting foreign dignitaries such as

General McArthur and Charlie Chaplin. Note though that most rooms are

housed in a modern tower annex, trading heritage atmosphere for bay views.

5 Eating

Colombus Okonomiyaki

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お好み焼きころんぶす; %045-633-2748; 1-3-7 Matsukage-chō, Naka-ku; mains ¥890-1120; h11.30am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am-3pm & 5-11pm Fri, 11.30am-11pm

Sat, 3-10pm Sun; dIshikawachō)

Friendly staff grill up a wide range of okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at your

table, with prawn, squid, pork or veg (the English menu has some cute manga

to help). It’s a two-minute walk from the Ishikawachō Station. Turn right from

the north exit, left at the first traffic lights and Colombus is 40m on your right.

Masan-no-mise Ryūsen

CHINESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 馬さんの店龍仙; %045-651-0758; www.mafam.com; 218-5 Yamashitachō, Naka-ku; dishes from ¥700; h7am-2am; dIshikawachō)

The walls at this cheerful little canteen are literally wallpapered with

appetizing photos of the stir-fries, dumplings, noodle soups and salads on offer.

It has two other branches in Chinatown.

Charcoal Grill Green

GRILL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; チャコールグリル グリーン 馬車道; %045-263-8976;

www.greenyokohama.com; 6-79 Benten-dōri, Naka-ku; mains from ¥1380; h11.30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight; bBashamichi)

Char is the star at this hip grill restaurant and bar that serves pink-centred

steaks and smoky chicken to go with craft beers on tap and a decent wine list.

The lunch specials are a great deal.

Manchinrō Honten

CHINESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 萬珍樓本店; %045-681-4004; www.manchinro.com; 153 Yamashita-chō, Naka-ku; lunch/dinner set menus from ¥2800/6000; h11am-10pm; dMotomachi-Chūkagai)

This palatial Cantonese restaurant is one of Chinatown’s oldest (1892) and

most respected. It serves a great selection of dim sum from 11am to 4pm, all in

opulent surrounds, though it’s a rather more formal affair for dinner. Book

ahead on weekends.

o Araiya

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 荒井屋; %045-226-5003; www.araiya.co.jp; 4-23 Kaigan-dōri, Naka-ku; set

lunch/dinner from ¥1540/2970; h11am-2.30pm & 5-10pm; bBashamichi)

Yokohama has its own version of the beef hotpot dish sukiyaki, called gyū-

nabe. This elegant restaurant, established in 1895, is the place to sample it.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Bashamichi Taproom

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 馬車道 タップルーム; %045-264-4961; www.bairdbeer.com; 5-63-1

Sumiyoshi-chō, Naka-ku; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; bBashamichi)

Set over three compact floors, this Baird Brewing Company pub offers at least

a dozen of its own beers on tap, from session JPAs (Japan pale ale) to smoky

stouts and hand-pumped cask ales. Try a sampler set of three for ¥1100.

The kitchen barbecues delicious American-style beef brisket and pulled pork

(meals from ¥1100).

Antenna America

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; アンテナアメリカ; %45-315-5228; www.antenna-america.com; 5th fl, 5-4-6 Yoshida-machi, Naka-ku; h3-11pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; dKannai)

Sup imported cans of American craft beer for just ¥500 at this showroom-

turned-bar attached to a beer distribution company. Nerdy staff know their hops

and the selection is impressive; the decor less so. A tiny kitchen turns out

respectable fish tacos.

It also has a branch in Yokohama Station.

Bashamichi Jyuban-Kan

CAFE

( MAP ; 馬車道十番館; %045-651-2621; www.yokohamajyubankan.co.jp; 5-67 Tokiwa-chō, Naka-ku; h10am-10pm; bBashamichi)

Soak up the old Yokohama vibes at this former trading company building

turned cafe-bar and French restaurant. You can join the well-to-do regulars for

tea and pastries at dainty tables, or seek out the clubby little bar up the wooden

staircase past old photographs of the port area.

Look for the five-storey building of red brick with stone portico and

coloured-glass windows.

Thrashzone Meatballs

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; www.beerdrinkinginternational.com; 2-15-1 Tokiwacho; h5-10pm Mon–Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun)

Pair your nano-brewed ‘extreme beer’ with a cheese-topped meatball sub or

skillet at this heavy-metal-themed craft-beer bar, a (slightly) less divey spin-off

from the original Thrash Zone (1F Tamura Bldg, 2-10-7 Tsuruyachō, Kanagawa-ku; h6-

11.30pm, from noon Sat & Sun; dYokohama).

Grassroots

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グラスルーツ; %045-312-0180; www.grassroots.yokohama; B1 fl, 2-13-3

Tsuruyachō, Kanagawa-ku; h5pm-2am; dYokohama)

Gigs, live art shows, DJ events and pop-up vintage shops are held in this

psychedelically decorated basement space a short walk north of Yokohama

Station. The cool staff are tuned in to what’s on around town.

It also serves tasty pub meals (¥750 to ¥2500) such as fish burgers and

grilled tuna steaks with avocado mash.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

NOGE BAR DISTRICT

Tiny, one-room bars with big personalities are stacked along a stretch of the Ōka River’s west bank

in the neighbourhood of Noge, a throwback to an earlier Japan. The rootsy vibe here couldn’t be

more different from high-rise Minato Mirai to the north -– it’s like Tokyo’s Golden Gai, but

without the tourists. Further west, narrow streets reward the intrepid with yet more micro bars,

eclectic music venues and places to eat.

3 Entertainment

Live music is prominent here, with Yokohama particularly noted for its love of

jazz. The Kannai-Bashamichi area is considered the hub of jazz.

Club Sensation

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-241-3166; www.sensation-jp.com; 3-80 Miyagawachō; cover from ¥2500;

h6-11.30pm; dHinodechō)

Intimate British-themed rock cafe-bar, run by Japanese rockers, with live bands

or DJs most evenings (check website for schedule) and English ales and cider

to drink.

Airegin

JAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; エアジン; %045-641-9191; www.airegin.yokohama; 5-60 Sumiyoshi-chō, Naka-ku; cover incl 1 drink ¥2500; h7.30pm-midnight; dBashamichi)

Up a flight of stairs, this atmospheric little live-music venue has been swinging

since 1969. Run by a jazz-loving couple, the cluttered space draws a friendly,

music-loving audience.

Downbeat Bar

JAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ダウンビート; %045-241-6167; www.yokohamadownbeat.com; 2nd fl,

Miyamoto Bldg, 1-43 Hanasaki-chō, Naka-ku; h4-11.30pm Tue-Sun; dSakuragichō)

Jazz kissa, which fall somewhere between cafes and bars, boast extensive jazz-

record collections. This is one of the oldest (1956) in Yokohama, with more

than 3000 albums and some serious speakers. Occasional live music means an

occasional cover charge. Look for the 2nd-floor red awning.

8 Information

See www.yokohamajapan.com and www.yokohamaseasider.com as well as the

following tourist offices, all of which have an English speaker.

Chinatown 80 Information Center ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 横浜中華街インフォ

メーションセンター; %045-681-6022; 80 Yamashita-chō; h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri &

Sat; dMotomachi-Chūkagai) A few blocks from Motomachi-Chūkagai Station.

Sakuragichō Station Tourist Information ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-211-0111; Sakuragichō Station; h9am-6pm; dSakuragichō) Has maps and brochures and can help

with hotel bookings. It’s outside the south exit of Sakuragichō Station.

Yokohama Convention & Visitors Bureau ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-221-2111;

www.yokohamajapan.com; 1st fl, Sangyō-Bōeki Center, 2 Yamashita-chō, Naka-ku; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; dNihon-ōdōri) A 10-minute walk from Nihon-ōdōri Station, and is very helpful

with recommendations, maps and brochures, all delivered in English. Check

out its excellent website.

Yokohama Station Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-441-7300; h9am-7pm) Has helpful English-speaking staff who can book

accommodation. It’s in the east–west corridor at Yokohama Station.

8 Getting There & Away

JR Tōkaidō, Yokosuka and Keihin Tōhoku lines run from Tokyo Station (¥470,

25 to 40 minutes). Some Keihin Tōhoku line trains continue along the Negishi

line to Sakuragichō, Kannai and Ishikawachō. From Shinjuku, take the

Shōnan-Shinjuku line (¥550, 32 minutes).

The Tōkyū Tōyoko line runs from Shibuya to Yokohama (¥270, 30 minutes),

after which it becomes the Minato Mirai subway line to Minato Mirai (¥450,

33 minutes) and Motomachi-Chūkagai (¥480, 39 minutes).

The Tōkaidō shinkansen stops at Shin-Yokohama Station, northwest of

town, connected to the city centre by the Yokohama line.

8 Getting Around

The Yokohama City blue line (shiei chikatetsu) connects Yokohama with Shin-

Yokohama (¥240, 11 minutes), Sakuragichō (¥210, four minutes) and Kannai

(¥210, six minutes).

JR trains connect Yokohama with Shin-Yokohama (¥170, 14 minutes),

Sakuragichō (¥140, four minutes) and Kannai (¥140, five minutes).

Although trains are more convenient, Yokohama has an extensive bus

network. The cute, red-coloured Akai-kutsu (‘red shoe’) bus loops every 20

minutes from 10am to around 7pm through the major tourist spots (adult/child

¥220/110 per ride).

The Minato Burari day pass covers municipal subway and bus rides

(including the Akai-kutsu bus, but not the Minato Mirai line) around Minato

Mirai and Yamashita-kōen (adult/child ¥500/250); purchase at any subway

(blue line) station.

KAMAKURA 鎌倉

%0467 / POP 172,306

The glory days of Japan’s first feudal capital (from 1185 to 1333) coincided

with the spread of populist Buddhism in Japan. This legacy is reflected in the

area’s proliferation of stunning temples. Kamakura (鎌倉) also has a laid-back,

earthy vibe complete with organic restaurants, summer beach shacks and

surfers – which can be added to sunrise meditation and hillside hikes as reasons

to visit. Only an hour from Tokyo, it tends to get packed on weekends and

holidays, so plan accordingly.

History

In 1180 aspiring warlord Minamoto no Yoritomo set up his base at Kamakura,

far away from the debilitating influences of Kyoto court life, close to other

clans loyal to his family and, having the sea on one side and densely wooded

hills on the other, easy to defend.

After victories over the old foes the Taira, Yoritomo was appointed shogun

in 1192 and governed Japan from Kamakura. When he died without an heir,

power passed to the Hōjō, the family of Yoritomo’s wife. Ruling power

remained in Kamakura until 1333, when, weakened by the cost of maintaining

defences against threats of attack from Kublai Khan in China, the Hōjō clan

was defeated by Emperor Go-Daigo. Kyoto once again became the capital.

By the Edo period, Kamakura was practically a village again. With the

opening of a rail line at the turn of the last century, the seaside town was reborn

as a summer resort. Summer homes of wealthy Tokyoites still line the Shōnan

coast.

Kamakura

1 Top Sights

1 Kenchō-ji

C2

2 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

C3

3 Zeniarai-benten

A3

1 Sights

4 Engaku-ji

B1

5 Ennō-ji

C2

6 Jōchi-ji

B1

7 Kamakura National Treasure Museum

C3

8 Sasuke-inari-jinja

A3

9 Tōkei-ji

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

10 Daibutsu Hiking Course

A3

11 Kamakura Welcome Guides

B4

12 Ten-en Hiking Course

D1

4 Sleeping

13 Hotel New Kamakura

B4

5 Eating

14 Cobakaba

B4

15 Sông Bé Cafe

B4

16 Wander Kitchen

B4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

17 Magnetico

C3

18 Univibe

B4

8 Transport

19 Kamakura Rent-a-Cycle

B4

1 Sights

o Daibutsu

MONUMENT

(大仏; %0467-22-0703; www.kotoku-in.jp; Kōtokuin, 4-2-28 Hase; adult/child ¥200/150; h8am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Nov)

Kamakura’s most iconic sight, an 11.4m bronze statue of Amida Buddha

( amitābha in Sanskrit), is in Kōtoku-in, a Jōdo sect temple. Completed in 1252,

it’s said to have been inspired by Yoritomo’s visit to Nara (where Japan’s

biggest Daibutsu holds court) after the Minamoto clan’s victory over the Taira

clan. Once housed in a huge hall, today the statue sits in the open, the hall

having been washed away by a tsunami in 1498.

For an extra ¥20, you can duck inside to see how the sculptors pieced the

850-tonne statue together.

Buses from stops 1 and 6 at the east exit of Kamakura Station run to the

Daibutsu-mae stop (¥200). Alternatively, take the Enoden Enoshima line to

Hase Station and walk north for about eight minutes. Better yet, take the

Daibutsu Hiking Course.

o Kenchō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 建長寺; www.kenchoji.com; 8 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥300/100; h8.30am-4.30pm)

Established in 1253, Japan’s oldest Zen monastery is still active today. The

central Butsuden (Buddha Hall) was brought piece by piece from Tokyo in

1647. Its Jizō Bosatsu statue, unusual for a Zen temple, reflects the valley’s

ancient function as an execution ground – Jizō consoles lost souls. Other

highlights include a bell cast in 1253 and a juniper grove, believed to have

sprouted from seeds brought from China by Kenchō-ji’s founder some seven

centuries ago.

o Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鶴岡八幡宮; %0467-22-0315; www.tsurugaoka-hachimangu.jp; 2-1-31

Yukinoshita; h5am-8.30pm Apr-Sep, from 6am Oct-Mar) F

Kamakura’s most important shrine is, naturally, dedicated to Hachiman, the

god of war. Minamoto no Yoritomo himself ordered its construction in 1191

and designed the pine-flanked central promenade that leads from the shrine to

the coast. The sprawling grounds are ripe with historical symbolism: the

Gempei Pond, bisected by bridges, is said to depict the rift between the

Minamoto (Genji) and Taira (Heike) clans.

Engaku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 円覚寺; %0467-22-0478; www.engakuji.or.jp; 409 Yamanouchi; adult/child

¥300/100; h8am-4.30pm Mar-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Feb)

One of Kamakura’s five major Rinzai Zen temples, Engaku-ji was founded in

1282 as a place where Zen monks might pray for soldiers who lost their lives

defending Japan against Kublai Khan. All of the temple structures have been

rebuilt over the centuries; the Shariden, a Song-style reliquary, is the oldest,

last rebuilt in the 16th century. At the top of the long flight of stairs is the

Engaku-ji bell, the largest bell in Kamakura, cast in 1301.

Hase-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(長谷寺; Hase Kannon; %0467-22-6300; www.hasedera.jp; 3-11-2 Hase; adult/child ¥300/100; h8am-5pm Mar-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Feb)

The focal point of this Jōdo sect temple, one of the most popular in the Kantō

region, is a 9m-high carved wooden jūichimen (11-faced) Kannon statue.

Kannon ( avalokiteshvara in Sanskrit) is the Bodhisattva of infinite compassion

and, along with Jizō , is one of Japan’s most popular Buddhist deities. The

temple is about 10 minutes’ walk from the Daibutsu and dates back to AD 736,

when the statue is said to have washed up on the shore near Kamakura.

The temple grounds afford sweeping sea views across the low-rise beach

community of Hase. You can also duck through several caves here.

Zuisen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(瑞泉寺; www.kamakura-zuisenji.or.jp; 710 Nikaidō; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-5pm) The grounds of this hillside Zen temple make for a blissful stroll in fine

weather and include lovingly tended gardens laid out by Musō Soseki, the

temple’s esteemed founder. To get here, take the bus from stop 4 at Kamakura

Station and get off at Ōtōnomiya (¥200, 10 minutes); turn right where the bus

turns left in front of Kamakura-gū, take the next left and keep following the

road for 10 or 15 minutes.

Jōmyō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(浄妙寺; 3-8-31 Jōmyō-ji; adult/child ¥100/50; h9.30am-4.30pm)

This Tokasan temple of the Rinzaishu Kenchō-ji sect was originally a tantric

Buddhist temple and converted to a Zen temple. The main reason to visit is for

its atmospheric rock garden and teahouse where you can sip on matcha

(powdered green tea) in a traditional tea ceremony (¥600). To get here, take

any bus from stop 5 at Kamakura Station’s east exit and get off at the Jōmyō-ji

stop, from where it’s a two-minute walk.

Behind the main temple is the Tomb of Ashikaga Sadauji, the father of

Takauji, the founder of the Muromachi era.

Ennō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 円応寺; 1543 Yamanouchi; ¥200; h9am-4pm Mar-Nov, to 3pm Dec-Feb) Tiny Ennō-ji is distinguished by its statues depicting the judges of hell.

According to the Juo concept of Taoism, which was introduced to Japan from

China during the Heian period (794–1185), these 10 judges decide the fate of

souls, who, being neither truly good nor truly evil, must be assigned to spend

eternity in either heaven or hell. Presiding over them is Emma (Yama), a Hindu

deity known as the gruesome king of the infernal regions.

Kamakura National Treasure Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鎌倉国宝館; Kamakura Kokuhōkan; %0467-22-0753;

www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/kokuhoukan; 2-1-1 Yukinoshita; adult/child ¥400/200; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

This museum displays an excellent collection of Kamakura religious art and

statuary. Some are the typically peaceful Jizō (Buddhist patron of travellers,

children and the unborn), others more gruesome, like the demonic temple

guardians.

Tōkei-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東慶寺; www.tokeiji.com; 1367 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥200/100; h8.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Across the railway tracks from Engaku-ji, Tōkei-ji is famed as having served

as a women’s refuge. A woman could be officially recognised as divorced after

three years as a nun in the temple precincts. Today, there are no nuns; the grave

of the last abbess can be found in the cemetery, shrouded by cypress trees.

Sugimoto-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(杉本寺; www.sugimotodera.com; 903 Nikaidō; adult/child ¥200/100; h8am-4.30pm) This small temple, founded in AD 734, is reputed to be the oldest in Kamakura.

Climb the steep steps up to the ferocious-looking guardian deities and statues

of Kannon. Take a bus from stop 5 at Kamakura Station to the Sugimoto

Kannon bus stop (¥200, 10 minutes).

Hōkoku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(報国寺; %0467-22-0762; www.houkokuji.or.jp; 2-7-4 Jōmyō-ji; bamboo garden ¥200; h9am-4pm) This Rinzai Zen temple is popular for its small forest of towering mōsō

bamboo, within which you can relax under a shelter with a cup of matcha and

sweets (¥500). It’s down the road from Sugimoto-dera, on the right-hand side.

WORTH A TRIP

ENOSHIMA

A short ride on the Enoden Enoshima line from Enoden Kamakura (adjoining the Kamakura JR

station) will take you to beachside Enoshima where rocky Enoshima Island is the main attraction.

Cross the bridge that begins on the beach and head up the narrow cobblestone lane (or the escalator

if you prefer) to Enoshima-jinja (江島神社; %0466-22-4020; www.enoshimajinja.or.jp; 2-3-8

Enoshima; h8.30am-5pm) F, a shrine to the sea goddess Benzaiten. The island is a popular date

spot, and cliffside restaurants offer sunset views along with local specialities including sazae

(turban shell seafood). There’s a park and some caves, too. During the summer, Enoshima’s black-

sand beach transforms into a sort of Shibuya-by-the-sea, as supertanned teens crowd the sand.

2 Activities

Daibutsu Hiking Course

HIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) This 3km wooded trail connects Kita-Kamakura with the Daibutsu in Hase

(allow about 1½ hours) and passes several small, quiet temples and shrines,

including Zeniarai-benten ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 銭洗弁天; h8am-4.30pm) F via a slight detour, one of Kamakura’s most alluring Shintō shrines.

The path begins at the steps just up the lane from pretty Jōchi-ji ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 浄智寺; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-4.30pm), a few minutes from Tōkei-ji.

Near Zeniarai-benten a cavelike entrance leads to a clearing where visitors

come to bathe their money in natural springs, with the hope of bringing

financial success. From here, continue down the paved road, turning right at

the first intersection, walking along a path lined with cryptomeria and

ascending through a succession of torii (shrine gates) to Sasuke-inari-jinja (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 佐助稲荷神社) F, a hilltop enclave strewn with kitsune (fox totems), before meeting up with the Daibutsu path once again. To hike in the

opposite direction, follow the road beyond Daibutsu and the trail entrance is on

the right, just before a tunnel.

Ten-en Hiking Course

HIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 天園ハイキングコース) From Zuisen-ji you can access this trail, which winds through the hills for two

hours before coming out at Kenchō-ji. From Kenchō-ji, walk around the Hojo

(Main Hall) and up the steps to the trail.

T Tours

Kamakura Welcome Guides

TOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kamakurawelcome.guide) F

Join free, hour-long tours on Fridays (10.30am and 1pm; English) which meet

just outside the east entrance of Kamakura Station. The morning tour goes to

Tsurugaoka Hachimangū; the afternoon tour to Daibutsu. You can also design

your own half-day or day tour via the website at least two weeks in advance

(multiple languages available). Guests pay their own admission and transport

fees.

ZAZEN: SEATED MEDITATION

Too many temples and before you know it you’re feeling anything but ‘Zen’. Zazen (seated

meditation) can help you discover what you’re missing – after all, temples were originally

designed for this purpose (and not sightseeing). Both Engaku-ji and Kenchō-ji hold beginner-

friendly, public zazen sessions. Instruction is in Japanese, but you can easily manage by watching

everyone else; arrive at least 15 minutes early. A book stand at Kenchō-ji sells English titles on

zazen if you’re keen to take your meditating skills to the next level.

4 Sleeping

Kamakura Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(鎌倉ゲストハウス; %0467-67-6078; www.kamakura-guesthouse.com; 273-3 Tokiwa; dm/q

¥3500/15,000; naW)

While it’s away from the action, this traditional cypress home with cheap

Japanese dorms and a common area with an irori (fireplace) make it a nice

place to hang out. Take the Enoden bus from stop 1 at the east gate of

Kamakura Station to Kajiwaraguchi (¥240); it’s a one-minute walk from here.

There are bicycles for rent (¥800 per day) and a communal kitchen; zazen

meditation tours to Engaku-ji are offered during the week.

WeBase

HOSTEL

¥

(%0467-22-1221; www.we-base.jp; 4-10-7 Yuigahama; dm/d/f ¥3800/9600/28,000; naiW)

Steps from the beach is this campus-like former company retreat turned hostel,

with capacious dorms, bags of socialising space and top spec facilities

including bike and bodyboard rental and a yoga studio (classes from ¥1000).

It’s a five-minute walk south towards the beach from Yuiga-hama Station

(Enoden Enoshima Line).

IZA Kamakura

HOSTEL

¥

(IZA 鎌倉; %0467-33-5118; http://izaiza.jp; 11-7 Sakanoshita; dm/d/q ¥3800/8800/14,000; naW)

This surfer hang-out is steps from the beach and handy for Hase’s temples.

Cramped but sociable, it also has a bar and bike rental (¥1000 per day).

o Kamejikan Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(亀時間; %0467-25-1166; www.kamejikan.com; 3-17-21 Zaimokuza; dm/d/q from ¥3500/9000/16000; niW)

A three-minute walk to the beach, this lovely guesthouse occupies a restored

wooden building that’s almost a century old, with paper lampshades and a

small cafe and bar (noon to 5pm Saturday and Sunday). Choose from a six-bed

dorm or two private rooms, all with common tiled bathrooms. Catch bus 12, 40

or 41 to Kuhon-ji from Kamakura Station.

English-speaking owner Masa is a good source of information and rents

bodyboards and bicycles (¥500 per day).

Hotel New Kamakura

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルニューカマクラ; %0467-22-2230; www.newkamakura.com; 13-2 Onarimachi; s/d from ¥5000/8500; pai)

Charming, slightly shabby and ultraconvenient, this hotel built in 1924 has

both Western- and Japanesestyle rooms, most of which share bathrooms.

There’s red carpet and a vintage vibe, though the economy rooms are rather

plain – opt for Japanese-style. Exit west from Kamakura Station, then take a

sharp right down the alley and up the left-hand stairs before the tunnel.

5 Eating

Kamakura has a wide range of touristy restaurants and cafes, including plenty

of options for vegetarians.

Cobakaba

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 食堂コバカバ; %0467-22-6131; 1-13-15 Komachi; meals ¥500-1000; h7am-2pm)

One of the few restaurants around town open for breakfast, Cobakaba serves

Japanese-style breakfast sets – fried egg, rice, fish, miso soup, salad and

simmered veggies – and lunch options that change seasonally.

Wander Kitchen

INTERNATIONAL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ワンダーキッチン; %0467-61-4751; www.wanderkitchen.net; 10-15

Onarimachi; sweets/lunch from ¥400/1000; hnoon-8pm; W)

It’s worth searching out this charmingly decorated, shabby-chic wooden house

for its laid-back vibe, good coffee and tasty meals, cakes and crêpes. It’s tucked

away just off the main street, about five minutes’ walk south of the west exit of

Kamakura Station.

Sông Bé Cafe

ASIAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ソンベカフェ; www.song-be-cafe.com; 13-32 Onarimachi; dishes from

¥800; h11.30am-8pm Thu-Sun; v)

This mellow day-to-evening joint serves up dishes such as pad thai (stir-fried

rice noodles) and green curry, with veggies sourced from the local farmers

market, and Southeast Asian beers to match. The friendly owner also serves a

good selection of teas and desserts like yuzu honey cheesecake, and banana

cake with coconut milk.

o Matsubara-an

SOBA

¥¥

(松原庵; %0467-61-3838; www.matsubara-an.com/shops/kamakura.php; 4-10-3 Yuiga-hama; mains

¥960-1850, set meals from ¥3200; h11am-10pm)

Dinner reservations are recommended for this upscale soba restaurant in a

lovely old house. Try the goma seiro soba (al dente noodles served cold with

sesame dipping sauce). Dine alfresco or indoors where you can watch noodles

being handmade. From Yuiga-hama Station (Enoden Enoshima line) head

towards the beach and then take the first right. Look for the blue sign.

Bonzō

SOBA

¥¥

(梵蔵; %0467-73-7315; 3-17-33 Zaimokuza; dishes ¥300-2000, set-course menu from ¥3500;

h11.30am-3pm & 6-9pm, closed Thu)

Popular with Japanese celebrities, this rustic little restaurant specialises in

handmade ju-wari (100% soba), including kamo seiro (cold soba in hot broth)

with wild duck imported from France. Opening hours can be erratic, so it’s

safer to call ahead. Catch bus 12, 40 or 41 to Kuhon-ji and look for the brown

shopfront next to the tiny post office.

Magokoro

FUSION

¥¥

(麻心; %0467-38-7355; www.magokoroworld.jp; 2nd fl, 2-8-11 Hase; meals ¥800-1400; h11.30am-8pm Tue-Sun; Wv) F

Boho beachfront spot mixing ocean views with an organic hemp-based menu,

including vegetarian hemp taco rice, several vegan options, macrobiotic cakes

and hemp beer (no, it doesn’t get you high). From Hase Station, walk to the

beach then turn left on the coastal road.

Good Mellows

CAFE

¥¥

(グッド メローズ; %0467-24-9655; 27-39 Sakanoshita; burgers from ¥1000; h10.30am-7pm

Wed-Mon)

Kick back in this California-style surf shack and enjoy charcoal-grilled burgers

stacked with bacon, cheese and avocado, washed down with a Dr Pepper or a

cold California microbrew.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Magnetico

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %467-33-5952; 4-1-19 Yukinoshita; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon, Tue, Thu

& Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; W)

Run by a couple of relaxed reggae dudes, this louche hang-out has Japanese

craft beers on tap, island rhythms on the stereo and a menu of tacos, fried

chicken and other comfort food. It’s a five-minute walk east from the main

entrance of Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, Kamakura’s main shrine.

Univibe

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ユニヴァイブ; %0467-67-8458; www.univibe.jp; 2nd fl, 7-13 Onaricho;

h11am-3pm & 6pm-late; W)

Surprisingly roomy upstairs bar kitted-out in retro vintage decor, with friendly

owners, table football and a relaxed vibe. A five-minute walk from the

Kamakura JR station.

8 Information

Just outside the east exit of Kamakura Station, the English-speaking staff at the

Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; 鎌倉市観光総合案内所; %0467-22-3350;

www.kamakura-info.jp; 1-1-1 Komachi; h9am-5pm) are helpful and can book

accommodation. Pick up the detailed (and free) Kamakura – A Historical and

Cultural Mosaic booklet for in-depth information on the region’s temples and

time periods, as well as umpteen brochures and maps for the area.

For information about Kamakura, see www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp (in

Japanese).

8 Getting There & Away

JR Yokosuka–line trains run to Kamakura from Tokyo (¥920, 54 minutes) and

Shinagawa (¥720, 46 minutes), via Yokohama (¥340, 25 minutes).

Alternatively, the Shōnan Shinjuku line runs from the west side of Tokyo

(Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, all ¥920) in about one hour, though some

trains require a transfer at Ōfuna, one stop before Kita-Kamakura. The last

train from Kamakura back to Tokyo Station is at 11.19pm and Shinjuku at

9.48pm.

JR Kamakura-Enoshima Free Pass (adult/child ¥700/350) Valid for one day

from Ōfuna or Fujisawa Stations; unlimited use of JR trains around Kamakura,

the Shōnan monorail between Ōfuna and Enoshima, and the Enoden Enoshima

line.

Odakyū Enoshima/Kamakura Free Pass (from Shinjuku/Fujisawa

¥1470/610) Valid for one day; includes transport to Fujisawa Station (where it

meets the Enoden Enoshima line), plus use of the Enoden.

8 Getting Around

You can walk to most temples and shrines from Kamakura or Kita-Kamakura

Stations. Sites in the west, like the Daibutsu, can be reached via the Enoden

Enoshima line from Kamakura Station to Hase (¥190) or by bus from

Kamakura Station stops 1 and 6.

Kamakura Rent-a-Cycle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レンタサイクル; %0467-24-3944;

www.jrbustech.co.jp/kamakura; 1-1 Komachi; per hr/day ¥800/1800; h8.30am-5pm) is outside the east exit of Kamakura Station, and right up the incline.

WORTH A TRIP

ENOURA OBSERVATORY

Book well in advance to be sure of securing a ticket to Enoura Observatory (江之浦測候所;

%0465-42-9170; www.odawara-af.com; 362-1 Enoura, Odawara; reserved/walk-up ticket

¥3300/3850; h10am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Thu-Mon; dJR Tokaido line to Nebukawa), an

extraordinary art, architecture and performing arts complex overlooking scenic Sagami Bay. A

passion project of the artist Sugimoto Hiroshi, the Observatory showcase some of his beguiling

seascape photography as well as his incredible collection of ancient stones, fossils and traditional

architectural elements. Entry is limited to either the morning or afternoon session and there is a free

transfer bus from Nebukawa Station.

You are free to wander the grounds, which include a bamboo forest, orange grove and traditional

teahouse. Two of the buildings – a 100m-long gallery and a tunnel clad in weathered steel – are

aligned with the rising sun for, respectively, the summer and winter solstice. There’s also two

outdoor stages – one stone, the other paved with optical glass and surrounded by a full-sized re-

creation of a Roman ampitheatre – that are used for occasional events such as nō-plays (stylised

dance-drama); check the website for further details.

There is no cafe here, but it is a lovely place to linger, so bring a packed lunch with you.

HAKONE

%0460 / POP 11,389

Offering serene onsen, world-class art museums, traditional inns and

spectacular mountain scenery crowned by Mt Fuji, Hakone (箱根) can make

for a blissful escape from Tokyo. Ashino-ko (芦ノ湖) is the lake at the centre

of it all, the setting for the iconic image of Mt Fuji with the torii of Hakone-

jinja rising from the water.

Naturally, this is all quite attractive, so it can feel crammed, particularly at

weekends and holidays. If you follow the herd, it can also feel highly

packaged. To beat the crowds, plan your trip during the week, go hiking and

sample some of Hakone’s offbeat gems.

Hakone

1 Top Sights

1 Hakone Open-Air Museum

D2

2 Okada Museum of Art

C2

3 Pola Museum of Art

B1

1 Sights

4 Hakone Museum of Art

C2

5 Hakone Ropeway

C2

6 Hakone-jinja

C4

7 Narukawa Art Museum

C4

8 Onshi Hakone Kōen

C4

9 Ōwakudani

B2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

10 Hakone Yuryō

E2

11 Old Hakone Highway

C4

12 Sōun-zan

C2

13 Tenzan Tōji-kyō

E3

14 Yunessun

C2

4 Sleeping

15 Box Hotel

C4

16 Fuji Hakone Guest House

B1

17 Fukuzumirō

E2

18 Guesthouse Azito

F3

19 Guesthouse Tenmaku

D2

20 Hakone Tent

C1

21 K’s House Hakone

E3

22 Omiya Ryokan

E3

5 Eating

23 Bakery & Table

C4

24 Coco-Hakone

E2

25 Hanasai

B1

Itoh Dining by Nobu

(see 4)

26 Miyafuji

D2

Sukumo

(see 13)

27 Yamagusuri

D2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

28 Amazake-chaya

C4

29 Gora Brewery & Grill

C2

30 Naraya Cafe

D2

7 Shopping

31 Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan

D3

8 Information

Hakone Baggage Delivery Service

(see 32)

32 Hakone-Yumoto Tourist Information Center

F2

8 Information

LUGGAGE FORWARDING

At Hakone-Yumoto Station, deposit your luggage with Hakone Baggage

Delivery Service ( MAP ; 箱根キャリーサービス; %0460-86-4140; 2nd fl, Hakone-

Yumoto Station; S/M/L suitcase ¥800/1000/1500; h8.30am-7pm) by 12.30pm, and it will be

delivered to your inn within Hakone from 3pm. Alternatively, you can check

your bag at your inn by 10am and pick it up after 1pm at Hakone-Yumoto

Station. Hakone Freepass holders get a discount of ¥100 per bag.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Try www.hakone.or.jp for online information.

Hakone-Yumoto Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; %0460-85-8911;

www.hakone.or.jp; 706-35 Yumoto; h9am-5.45pm) Make your first stop at the most clued-

up of several tourist information centres scattered around Hakone. This is the

best place for maps and information about hiking trails and all the attractions.

Staffed by helpful English speakers, it’s across the main road from the train

station.

8 Getting There & Away

The Odakyū line (www.odakyu.jp) from Shinjuku Station goes directly into

Hakone-Yumoto, the region’s transit hub. Use either the convenient Romance

Car (¥2280, 1½ hours) or kyūkō (regular-express) service (¥1190, two hours);

the latter usually requires a transfer at Odawara.

JR Pass holders can take the Kodama shinkansen (¥3740, 35 minutes) from

Tokyo Station to Odawara and change there for trains or buses for Hakone-

Yumoto.

8 Getting Around

Part of Hakone’s popularity comes from the chance to ride assorted norimono

(modes of transport): switchback train (from Hakone-Yumoto to Gōra), cable

car (funicular), ropeway (gondola), ship and bus.

The narrow-gauge, switchback Hakone-Tōzan line runs from Odawara via

Hakone-Yumoto to Gōra (¥670, one hour).

From Gōra, a funicular (¥420, 10 minutes) heads up to near the 1153m-high

summit of Sōun-zan, from where you can catch the Hakone Ropeway to

Ōwakudani and Tōgendai.

From Tōgendai, sightseeing boats criss-cross Ashino-ko to Hakone-machi

(%0460-83-7550; Hakonemachi-ko) and Moto-Hakone (%0460-83-6022; Motohakone-ko)

between 9.30am and 5pm (one way/return ¥1000/1840, 30 minutes).

Of course you can do the whole circuit in reverse. For more details, see

www.odakyu.jp/english/sightseeing/hakone.

HAKONE TRAVEL PASSES

Odakyū’s Hakone Freepass, available at Odakyū stations and Odakyū Travel branches, is an

excellent deal, covering the return fare to Hakone and unlimited use of most modes of transport

within the region, plus other discounts at museums and facilities in the area. It’s available as a two-

day pass (adult/child from Shinjuku ¥5140/1500; from Odawara, if you’re not planning on

returning to Shinjuku, ¥4000/1000) or a three-day pass (adult/child from Shinjuku ¥5640/1750,

from Odawara ¥4500/1250). Freepass-holders need to pay an additional limited-express surcharge

(¥890 each way) to ride the Romance Car.

If you plan to combine Hakone with Mt Fuji, also consider the Fuji Hakone Pass (adult/child

¥8000/4000), a three-day pass offering discount round-trip travel from Shinjuku as well as

unlimited use of most transport in the two areas.

Hakone-Yumoto 箱根湯元温泉

%0460 / POP 3114

The onsen resort town of Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯元温泉), spanning the

Sukumo-gawa, is the starting point for most visits to Hakone. Though heavily

touristed, it offers a high concentration of good onsen, the main attraction here.

2 Activities

o Tenzan Tōji-kyō

ONSEN

( MAP ; 天山湯治郷; %0460-86-4126; www.tenzan.jp; 208 Yumoto-chaya; adult/child ¥1300/650; h9am-10pm)

Soak in tranquil rotemburo (outdoor baths) of varying temperatures and

designs (one, for women only, is constructed to resemble a natural cave) at this

stylish complex by the gushing Haya-kawa. To get here, take the ‘B’ course

shuttle bus from the bridge outside Hakone-Yumoto Station (¥100, five

minutes). Tattoos are allowed.

Hakone Yuryō

ONSEN

( MAP ; 箱根湯寮; %0460-85-8411; www.hakoneyuryo.jp; 4 Tōnosawa; adult/child ¥1400/700, private bath ¥4000-6000; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun)

Relax in spacious rotemburo under the trees at this idyllic complex ensconced

in the forest, or book yourself a private bath in advance. A free shuttle bus

(9am to 8pm, every 10 to 15 minutes) will whisk you here from Hakone-

Yumoto Station, or it’s a five-minute walk along a narrow path from Tōnosawa

Station on the Hakone-Tōzan line. No tattoos allowed.

You can also eat here before or after a soak (meal package ¥2500 including

onsen).

4 Sleeping

K’s House Hakone

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; %0460-85-9111; www.kshouse.jp; 12-1 Yumotochaya; dm/d from ¥3500/9000; pnaiW) K’s has the option of either Japanese-style futon dorms, capsules or bunks,

along with neat tatami doubles. There’s indoor and outdoor onsen, a shared

kitchen, a lounge and a terrace with mountain views. It’s a 15-minute slog

uphill from Hakone-Yumoto Station on the south side of the Sukumo-gawa, or

a ¥230 bus ride.

Friendly staff are clued up on all the Hakone travel questions you’re

wondering about.

Guesthouse Azito

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; ゲストハウス アジト; %0460-83-8557; www.guesthouseazito.com; 491 Yumoto; capsule ¥6800, s/d ¥4500/9000; naiW)

Azito means ‘hideout’, and there is indeed something playful and treehouse-

like about the huge timber capsules here furnished with double beds. It also has

Japanese-style private rooms and a sociable little bar (5.30pm-11.30pm) that

opens onto the street. English spoken. It’s a 10-minute walk uphill from

Hakone-Yumoto Station on the south side of the Sukumo-gawa.

Omiya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; %0460-85-7345; www.o-miya.com; 116 Yumotochaya; r incl 2 meals from ¥9300, Sat or Sun from ¥13,400; aW)

Lower weekday prices make this cute ryokan with its tatami rooms an

attractive proposition, especially as some have mountain views. There’s also a

small indoor onsen. To get here, take the ‘B’ course bus from Hakone-Yumoto

Station. Limited English spoken.

o Fukuzumirō

RYOKAN

$$$

( MAP ; 福住楼; %0460-85-5301; www.fukuzumi-ro.com; 74 Tōnosawa; s/d incl 2 meals from

¥25,000/44,000; aW)

Established in 1890, this antique inn boasts a trio of onsen and fine woodwork

throughout its tatami guestrooms, some with terraces overlooking the Haya-

kawa. One of the rooms was a favourite of Nobel Prize–winning author

Kawabata Yasunori. Buses heading up the hill from Hakone-Yumoto stop just

outside, or it’s a 10-minute walk from Tōnosawa Station (on the Hakone-Tōzan

railway).

5 Eating

Coco-Hakone

CHICKEN

¥

( MAP ; %70-4006-5212; 475-8 Yumoto; meals around ¥1000; h11am-4.30pm Wed-Sun)

The ‘Hakone lava’ chicken over rice looks burnt to a crisp at this casual joint,

but actually it’s a juicy, tasty treat and simply a bit of gastronomic trickery. You

can drink Hakone craft beer here, too, and nerds will appreciate the glass

cabinet stuffed with vintage Star Wars toys (sorry, it’s locked).

Sukumo

SOBA

¥¥

( MAP ; 自然薯自然薯すくも; %0460-86-4126; 208 Yumoto-chaya; soba from ¥1100;

h11.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed)

This serene riverside soba restaurant is perfect for a bite after visiting the

neighbouring Tenzan Tōji-kyō onsen complex. Find it through an arched gate

just beside the bridge. The chef speaks English.

Miyanoshita & Kowakidani 宮ノ下・小涌谷

Miyanoshita (宮ノ下) is the first worthwhile stop on the Hakone-Tōzan

railway heading towards Gōra, with antique shops, a small hiking trail and

some good places to eat. The next stop along is Kowakidani (小涌谷), home to

a giant onsen complex and the highly impressive collection of the Okada

Museum of Art.

1 Sights & Activities

o Okada Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 岡田美術館; %0460-87-3931; www.okadamuseum.com; 483-1 Kowakidani; adult/student

¥2800/1800; h9am-5pm)

This mammoth museum showcases the dazzling Japanese, Chinese and Korean

art treasures of industrialist Okada Kazuo. You could easily spend hours

marvelling at the beauty of many pieces, including detailed screen paintings

and exquisite pottery. Interactive, multilingual interpretive displays enhance the

experience. The museum is opposite the Kowakien bus stop.

As well as admiring the treasures on display, you can explore the lush

hillside garden and woodland, soak in the outdoor footbath or relax in the cafe-

restaurant housed in a traditional wooden villa.

Yunessun

ONSEN

( MAP ; 箱根小涌園ユネッサン; www.yunessun.com; 1297 Ninotaira; Yunessun adult/child

¥2900/1600, Mori-no-Yu ¥1900/1200, both ¥4100/2100; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb)

This modern, family-oriented complex is more like an onsen amusement park,

with outdoor water slides and a variety of baths (including some filled with

coffee, green tea and even sake!) as well as indoor swimming pools with a

retro leisure centre vibe. Mixed bathing so you’ll need a swimsuit. The

connected Mori-no-Yu complex (11am to 8pm) is traditional single-sex

bathing.

Take a bus from Hakone-machi, Gōra or Hakone-Yumoto to the Kowakien

bus stop. There’s also a variety of accommodation here.

5 Eating & Drinking

Yamagusuri

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; 山藥; %0460-82-1066; 224 Miyanoshita; meals ¥2300; h7am-8pm)

Yamagusuri is a popular spot for substantial, healthy meal sets featuring tororo

(grated yam) that you pour over barley and rice. The dining room overlooks the

forested gorge below.

Miyafuji

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP ; 鮨みやふじ; %0460-82-2139; www.miyanoshita.com/miyafuji; 310 Miyanoshita; meals from ¥1680; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-8pm Fri-Wed)

This friendly sushi shop is known for its aji-don (horse mackerel over rice). If

you know how to fold an origami crane, ask to try their special challenge –

using their impossibly small origami, fold a crane in under 10 minutes (they

provide tweezers) and they’ll add it to the shop’s teeny-crane-festooned decor.

Look for the English sign.

Naraya Cafe

CAFE

( MAP ; ナラヤカフェ; 404-13 Miyanoshita; coffee from ¥350; h10.30am-6pm, to 5pm Dec-Feb,

closed Wed & 4th Thu of the month; c)

Beside the station, this woodsy cafe and craft shop is a pleasant pit stop for

drinks and light meals. You can also soak your toes in the footbath on the

terrace looking out over the mountains, or unwind in the bookspace below.

Chōkoku-no-Mori & Gōra 彫刻の森・強羅

Chōkoku-no-Mori (彫刻の森) is the station stop for the Hakone Open-Air

Museum, one of the area’s top attractions. The Hakone-Tōzan line terminates

at the next station, Gōra (強羅), a characterful little mountain community and

also the starting point for the funicular and cable-car trip to Tōgendai on

Ashino-ko.

1 Sights

o Hakone Open-Air Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 彫刻の森美術館; %0460-82-1161; www.hakone-oam.or.jp; 1121 Ninotaira; adult/child

¥1600/800; h9am-5pm)

Occupying a verdant swath of Hakone hillside is this unmissable art safari,

leading visitors past a rich array of 19th- and 20th-century sculptures and

installations by leading Japanese artists as well as the likes of Henry Moore,

Rodin and Miró, harmoniously plonked into the landscape. If it’s raining, take

shelter in the humongous Picasso Pavilion with more than 300 of his works

inside, ranging from paintings and glass art to tapestry.

Kids will love the giant crochet artwork/playground with its Jenga-like

exterior walls, as well as the spiral staircase of the stained-glass Symphonic

Structure. End the day by soaking your feet in the outdoor footbath. Hakone

Freepass holders get ¥200 off the admission price.

Hakone Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 箱根美術館; %0460-82-2623; www.moaart.or.jp/hakone; 1300 Gōra; adult/child ¥900/free; h9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed, to 4pm in winter)

Sharing grounds with a lovely velvety moss garden and teahouse (¥700 matcha

and sweet), this museum has a collection of Japanese pottery dating from as far

back as the Jōmon period (some 5000 years ago). The gardens are spectacular

in autumn. It’s just across from Koenkami Station on the funicular.

4 Sleeping

o Guesthouse Tenmaku

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 囲炉裏ゲストハウス天幕; %0460-83-9348; 1121 Ninotaira; dm/tw/f from

¥3500/9000/18000, deluxe dorm 1/2 people ¥5500/8500; naiW)

The centrepiece of this impeccably designed hostel is the irori (sunken hearth)

in the bar-lounge, around which communal feasts of grilled fish, rice and miso

soup are shared between guests (¥1000). The ‘deluxe dorm’ is worth

considering – private timber cabins/capsules furnished with double beds.

There’s a good selection of rooms for families, too, and kids of all ages are

welcome.

Tenmaku is from the same (exceedingly talented) folks behind Hakone Tent.

In an area low on nightlife, the bar here is a choice spot for a drink or three.

o Hakone Tent

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 温泉ゲストハウス; %0460-83-8021; http://hakonetent.com; 1320-257 Gora; dm/s/d/tr with shared bathroom ¥3500/4000/9000/13,500; naiW)

A sociable gem of a hostel run by a team of friendly young staff, Tent offers

Japanese-style futon dorms and tidy private rooms in a stylishly renovated

ryokan that has its own volcanic water onsen. The smart lobby bar is a great

place for an early-evening drink, or a tasty meal of pizza and pasta.

5 Eating & Drinking

Itoh Dining by Nobu

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 伊藤ダイニング バイノブ; %0460-83-8209; www.itoh-dining.co.jp; 1300-64 Gōra; lunch/dinner from ¥3000/7000; h11.30am-3pm & 5-9.30pm; v)

Savour premium Japanese beef, cooked teppanyaki- style in front of you by the

chef, at this elegant restaurant, an outpost of the celeb chef Nobu’s dining

empire. It’s just uphill from Koenshimo Station on the funicular, one stop from

Gōra.

o Gora Brewery & Grill

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; %0460-83-8107; www.itoh-dining.co.jp; 1300-72 Gōra; h1-4pm & 5-9.30pm; W) Sup on a Gora IPA or a Black Belt stout, among other ales from this stylish

brewery venue, run by the folk behind Itoh Dining by Nobu. Grill treats

include house-made sausages, Peruvian style lamb and Nobu’s signature black

cod with miso. It’s a three-minute walk from Koenshimo Station on the

funicular, or a 10-minute uphill slog from Gora.

All beers are sold at the ‘happy hour’ price of ¥500 between 1pm and 4pm.

Sōun-zan & Sengokuhara 早雲山・仙石原

Sōun-zan (早雲) is where the top of Hakone’s funicular railway meets the

Hakone Ropeway for aerial journeys over the remarkable (and stinky) volcanic

valley of Ōwakudani and onward to Ashino-ko. To the north, Sengokuhara (仙

石原) is a sizeable town and a useful stopover between Hakone and the Mt Fuji

area, with some good-value lodgings.

1 Sights & Activities

o Pola Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP ; ポーラ美術館; www.polamuseum.or.jp; 1285 Kozukayama; adult/child ¥1800/700; h9am-5pm)

Showcasing the private collection of the late Suzuki Tsuneshi, son of the

founder of the Pola Group (a cosmetics company), this impressive building

displays works from Van Gogh, Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso and Rodin,

in addition to Japanese artists painting in the Western style, including Kuroda

Seiki and Okada Saburosuke.

There’s also a 700m nature trail winding through the museum’s grounds.

Hakone Ropeway

CABLE CAR

( MAP ; 箱根ロープウェイ; www.hakoneropeway.co.jp; one way/return ¥1450/2550; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.15pm Dec-Feb)

The Hakone Ropeway is a 30-minute, 4km gondola ride, taking travellers to

Tōgendai from Sōun-zan. It glides over the steaming crater of Ōwakudani, one

of the stops along the way. At times, increased volcanic activity at Ōwakudani

results in the ropeway not operating for the sake of public safety. In such cases,

a bus runs from Tōgendai to Sōun-zan.

If you’ve bought a round-trip ticket and the ropeway is shut down before

your return, there is a refund counter. The ropeway is included on the Hakone

Freepass.

Ōwakudani

VOLCANO

( MAP ; 大桶谷; www.kanagawa-park.or.jp/owakudani) F

The ‘Great Boiling Valley’ was created 3000 years ago when Kami-yama

erupted and collapsed, also forming Ashino-ko. Hydrogen sulphide steams

from the yellow ground here (the yellow is crystallised sulphur) and the hot

water is used to boil onsen tamago, eggs blackened in the sulphurous waters,

which you can buy to eat from the tourist shops beside the ropeway station. On

rare occasions Ōwakudani might be closed due to volcanic activity.

Sōun-zan

HIKING

( MAP ; 早雲山)

There are various hiking trails on this mountain including one to Kami-yama,

Hakone’s highest peak (1¾ hours) and another up to Ōwakudani (1¼ hours).

The latter is sometimes closed due to the mountain’s toxic gases. Check at the

tourist information office.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Fuji Hakone Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP ; 富士箱根ゲストハウス; %0460-84-6577; www.fujihakone.com; 912 Sengokuhara;

s/tw/tr from ¥5550/10,950/16,350; pnaiW)

Threadbare but exceedingly homely, this family-run guesthouse offers good-

value tatami rooms, indoor and outdoor onsen with divine volcanic waters, and

a wealth of information on local sights and hiking. Take the T-course bus to

Senkyōrō-mae from the east exit of Odawara Station (lane 4; ¥1050, 50

minutes); it’s a one-minute walk from there.

A smart choice, geographically-speaking, if you’re planning onward travel

by bus to the Fuji lakes region.

Hanasai

JAPANESE

$

( MAP ; 花菜; %0460-84-0666; 919 Sengokuhara; mains from ¥850; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm

Wed-Mon)

Choose from a hodgepodge of Japanese favourites ( tonkatsu, sashimi, curry

rice) along with a few Western and even Chinese dishes in this retro family

restaurant that’s like dining in a late Showa-era (1970s) home.

Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone 箱根町・元箱根

The kitsch sightseeing boats that ply the cobalt blue waters of Ashino-ko

deposit you at either Hakone-machi (箱根町) or the adjacent Moto-Hakone (元

箱根), two small lakeside communities both well touristed and with sights of

historical interest.

1 Sights & Activities

Narukawa Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 成川美術館; %0460-83-6828; www.narukawamuseum.co.jp; 570 Moto-Hakone; adult/child

¥1300/600; h9am-5pm)

Art comes in two forms here – in the exquisite Japanese-style paintings,

nihonga, on display, and in the stunning Mt Fuji views from the panorama

lounge looking out across the lake, conditions permitting.

The website has ¥200 discount vouchers you can print out (one voucher

good for four people).

Hakone-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 箱根神社; h9am-4pm)

A pleasant stroll around Ashino-ko follows a cedar-lined path to this shrine set

in a wooded grove, in Moto-Hakone. Its signature red torii rises from the lake;

get your camera ready for that picture-postcard shot.

Onshi Hakone Kōen

PARK

( MAP ; 恩賜箱根公園; %0460-83-7484; 171 Moto-Hakone; h9am-5pm) F

Occupying a peninsula on Ashino-ko, this scenic park was formerly the

grounds of an imperial summer retreat. The ‘Lakeside Panorama Pavilion’, said

to offer Hakone’s finest view of Mt Fuji, was built just behind the original

palace building (destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake, but the foundations

are still visible). Stop by for drinks and vistas.

Old Hakone Highway

HIKING

( MAP ; 箱根旧街道)

Up the hill from the lakeside Moto-Hakone bus stop is the entrance to the

stone-paved Old Hakone Highway, part of the Edo-era Tōkaidō Highway that

connected the shogun’s capital with Kyoto. You can walk back to Hakone-

Yumoto via the trail through the woods, which takes about 3½ hours. Note that

the old cobbles can be very slippery in damp conditions.

About 30 minutes’ walk from Moto-Hakone, the path passes behind the

wonderful old pilgrim’s inn, Amazake-chaya. You can catch a bus back to

Hakone-Yumoto from there, or keep going on foot to the small village of

Hatajuku (畑宿), where you can visit the Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan ( MAP ; 畑

宿寄木会館; %0460-85-8170; 103 Hatajuku; h9am-4.30pm) to find out more about the

craft of marquetry practised in the area.

4 Sleeping

Box Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; %0460-85-1113; www.boxhakone.com; 7-1 Moto-Hakone; r per person from ¥10,000; naiW) All five of the lodge-style rooms have balconies at this thoughtfully-designed

boutique hotel, but only the family rooms (which are more like small suites,

complete with kitchenettes) overlook the lake. On ground level a folksy,

American-style restaurant serves creative burgers, meatloaf, salads and great

coffee.

5 Eating & Drinking

The shorefront streets of Moto-Hakone port are lined with places to eat.

Bakery & Table

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP ; %0460-85-1530; www.bthjapan.com; 9-1 Moto-Hakone; mains ¥1000-2500; hbakery 10am-5pm, parlour 10am-3pm, cafe 8.30am-5pm, restaurant 11am-5pm)

There are several dining options at this lakeside venue with a footbath terrace

outside. The take-away bakery is on the ground floor, a cafe is one floor up,

and the restaurant serving fancy open sandwiches and crêpes is above that.

o Amazake-chaya

TEAHOUSE

( MAP ; 甘酒茶屋; %0460-83-6418; www.amasakechaya.jp; 395-1 Futoko-yama; amazake ¥400, snacks from ¥250; h7am-5.30pm)

This historic thatched-roofed teahouse, the last of several that once lined the

Old Hakone Highway, has been relieving road-weary travellers with amazake

(a sweet drink made from rice used to make sake) and seasoned mochi (sticky

rice cakes) for more than 360 years. If you visit in the chillier months, you can

warm yourself around the irori (sunken fireplace).

Amazake-chaya is about 550m along the cobbled Old Hakone Highway

from Moto-Hakone, or take a Hakone-Yumoto–bound bus from Moto-Hakone

and get off at the Amazake-chaya stop. The staff will give you some warning

when the last bus back to Hakone-Yumoto is approaching (just after 5pm).

IZU PENINSULA 伊豆半島

The Izu Peninsula (伊豆半島, Izu-hantō), about 100km southwest of Tokyo

in Shizuoka Prefecture, is where the famed Kurofune (Black Ships) of US

Commodore Perry dropped anchor in 1854. Contemporary Izu has a cool

surfer vibe, lush greenery, rugged coastlines and abundant onsen. Weekends

and holidays see crowds descend on the east coast, particularly in summer.

It’s generally quieter on the west coast, which lacks a railway but has,

weather permitting, Mt Fuji views over Suruga-wan (Suruga Bay).

Izu Peninsula

1 Sights

1 Coeda House

C1

2 Gyokusen-ji

B5

3 Jōgasaki-kaigan

D3

4 Jōren-no-taki

B3

5 MOA Museum of Art

C1

6 Mt Ōmuro

C3

7 Nagisa Park

C2

8 Shoko Kanazawa Museum

B2

Shuzen-ji

(see 8)

Shuzen-ji Treasure Museum

(see 8)

Tōkaikan

(see 7)

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

9 Baguse Surf School

B5

Dive & House Futo

(see 3)

10 Dōgashima Marine

A4

Hako-yu

(see 8)

11 Irie Coffee & Sea

C4

12 Nikkotei Oyu

C1

13 Real

B5

Ryokufuen

(see 7)

Sawada-kōen Rotemburo

(see 10)

Shirahama Mariner

(see 11)

Tokko-no-yu

(see 8)

14 Yamabushi Trail Tour

A4

Yokikan

(see 7)

4 Sleeping

A Million Roses

(see 11)

Arai Ryokan

(see 8)

Ernest House

(see 13)

Goyōkan

(see 8)

Guesthouse Maruya

(see 12)

Hostel Knot

(see 8)

K’s House Itō Onsen

(see 7)

Tabi Tabi

(see 13)

Umibe-no-Kakureyu Seiryu

(see 10)

Wabi Sabi

(see 13)

Yamaki Ryokan

(see 7)

5 Eating

Bora Noya

(see 3)

Cafe Mellow

(see 13)

Hamazushi

(see 7)

Kunihachi

(see 7)

Papa’s Restaurant

(see 11)

Selfish Diner

(see 12)

South Cafe

(see 13)

Wabi Sabi Cafe

(see 13)

Zenfutei Nana ban

(see 8)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

15 Baird Brewery Beer Garden

B2

Freaks

(see 7)

8 Information

Atami City Tourism Association

(see 12)

Dōgashima Tourist Information Center

(see 10)

16 Tourist Information Center

C2

17 Tourist Information Office

B2

8 Transport

Atami Station

(see 12)

18 Ferry Terminal

D2

Izu Velo

(see 17)

19 Tōkai Kisen

C1

Atami 熱海

%0557 / POP 37,146

The onsen and seaside resort of Atami (熱海) is both the gateway to Izu and

its largest town. Overbuilding in the 1980s unfortunately sullied Atami’s

picturesque bayside setting, but there’s enough here to keep you occupied for

a night or so while you plan onward travel or wait for a boat to the Izu

Islands.

1 Sights & Activities

Coeda House

ARCHITECTURE

( MAP ; コエダハウス; %557-82-1221; 1027-8 Kamita-ga; garden ¥1000; h9am-5pm)

Resembling a parasol of cyprus and glass perched on a cliff above the ocean,

this remarkable cafe space is the work of superstar architect Kengo Kuma

(designer of the 2020 Tokyo Olympic stadium). You’ll find it in the Akao

Herb and Rose Garden, 5km south of Atami. The ‘Yu-Yu’ tourist bus stops

here on its loop of Atami’s sights.

A shuttle bus runs up to Coeda House from the garden’s entrance, where

you can while away an hour or two with coffee, orange custard tarts and

ocean vistas before walking back down to the entrance via a series of

terraced gardens.

MOA Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP ; MOA美術館; %0557-84-2511; www.moaart.or.jp; 26-2 Momoyama-chō; adult/student

¥1600/1000; h9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed)

A small but refined collection of Japanese and Chinese pottery, paintings and

Buddhist treasures spanning a millenia awaits at this museum, built

dramatically into the hillside like a Bond villain lair. Artefacts are beautifully

displayed in tatami-lined alcoves, the result of a design makeover by artist

Sugimoto Hiroshi, while walls of glass at various junctures confer dizzying

sea views.

Buses run here from platform 8 outside Atami Station (¥170, eight

minutes).

Nikkotei Oyu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 日航亭 大湯; %557-83-6021; 5-26 Kamijuku-chō; ¥1000; h9am-8pm Wed-Mon)

Dip into the searing, mineral-rich waters of this old-school onsen with

adjoining indoor and outdoor pools. It’s a five-minute walk from Kinomiya

station, one stop along from Atami. No tattoos.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Across from the station, the Heiwa-dōri shopping arcade has lots of little

shops serving noodles or sushi.

o Guesthouse Maruya

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; %0557-82-0389; www.guesthouse-maruya.jp; 7-8 Ginza-chō; s/tw/tr from

¥3890/7775/10,800; nW)

A terrific budget choice just three minutes from the beach, Maruya rocks a

hip open-plan lounge-kitchen fronting a corridor of lockable sleeping

capsules, each big enough to stand up in. The young staff are sweet and

obliging, and they’ll even barbecue you a fish on the front deck for

breakfast.

Selfish Diner

BURGERS

¥¥

( MAP ; %0557-52-6681; www.selfishdiner.jp; 15-11 Nagisachō; meals from ¥1500; h10.30am-8pm) Grab a pavement table or counter seat at this smart little seafront joint for

tuna cutlet burgers, stacked aesthetically with salad and sauce in a toasted

bun, and served with fries or lotus root chips.

8 Information

Atami Tourist Office (%0557-85-2222; http://travel.ataminews.gr.jp/en; 2018-8 Nagisa-chō; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) Down on the waterfront; has town maps,

‘Yu-Yu’ bus timetables and discount vouchers for various sights.

8 Getting There & Around

JR trains run from Tokyo Station to Atami (11 Taharahon-chō) on the Tōkaidō

line (Kodama shinkansen ¥4190, 46 minutes; Odoriko sightseeing train

¥3800, 1¼ hours; kaisoku ¥1940, 1½ hours).

Tokai Kisen (東海汽船; %03-5472-9999; www.tokaikisen.co.jp; 6 Wadahamaminami-cho) hydrofoils travel daily from Atami port to the island of Ō-shima (¥4710, 45

minutes). Prices are seasonal. To reach Atami port, take the bus from lane 7

outside Atami Station (¥230, five minutes).

Atami’s yellow ‘Yu-Yu’ sightseeing buses (day/single ¥700/250) depart

from Atami Station and loop around town, climbing the headland for

dramatic views, and also stopping at Akao Herb and Rose Garden for Coeda

House.

Itō 伊東

%0557 / POP 68,541

A laid-back, low-rise seaside town with a few notable onsen, Itō (伊東)

makes a good base for wider Izu Peninsula explorations, not least because of

some excellent, affordable ryokan to overnight in. Flowing through town to

the sea is the Matsu-kawa, along which runs a pretty riverside path.

1 Sights & Activities

If you plan on checking out Mt Ōmuro or hiking Jōgasaki-kaigan, pick up

the one-day Itō Sightseeing Free Pass (adult/child ¥1300/650) at the bus

terminal.

o Jōgasaki-kaigan

AREA

( MAP ; 城ヶ崎海岸)

A cliffside hiking trail winds over volcanic rock and through pine forest

along the gorgeous Jōgasaki coast south of Itō. Most visitors head to

Kadowaki Lighthouse and the adjacent Kadowaki-no-Umi suspension

bridge 23m above the waves; from there you can hike south 6km or so to

Izu-Kōgen Station, or stop halfway at the New York Lamp Museum and

bus back. From Itō Station, take the bus to Jōgasakiguchi (¥700, 40 minutes)

and walk the 1.2km to the lighthouse.

The first place of note you’ll get to is Bora Noya, where you can fortify

yourself pre-hike with a delicious sashimi feast.

Tōkaikan

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 東海館; %0557-36-2004; www.itospa.com; 12-10 Higashi Matsubara-chō; adult/child

¥200/100; h9am-9pm, tearoom 10am-5pm, onsen 11am-7pm Sat & Sun)

This grand inn (c 1928) is now a national monument for its fine woodwork.

Each of its three storeys was designed by a different master carpenter;

architecture buffs will love comparing the styles. A highlight is the Grand

Hall on the 3rd floor, an ocean of tatami (120 mats!) flanked by stages. An

additional ¥500 will let you take a dip in its onsen baths (weekends only).

Several of the rooms house odd little museum exhibits, and there’s a

tearoom with river views on the ground floor.

Mt Ōmuro

MOUNTAIN

( MAP ; 大室山; %0557-51-0258; return chairlift ¥500; hchairlift 9am-5.15pm Apr-Sep, to 4.15pm

Oct-Mar)

Ten kilometres south of Itō is this dormant rice-bowl volcano, a perfectly

smooth, steep-sided grassy mound. Ride the chairlift to the 580m summit

where you can take in coastal views of Mt Fuji. There’s a 1km walk around

the crater, bizarrely enough with an archery centre in the middle. Take the

bus bound for Shaboten Kōen and Ōmuroyama from Itō Station (¥710, 40

minutes).

Nagisa Park

PARK

( MAP ; なぎさ公園)

At the southern end of Orange Beach, this little park is studded with

photogenic bronze figurative sculptures by local artist Shigeoka Kenji.

Dive & House Futo

DIVING

( MAP ; %0557-51-8113; dive@bj.wakwak.com; 855-3 Futo; half-day dive lesson ¥11,880, gear rental 2 people ¥14,040; h8am-7pm)

In the idyllic little harbour community of Futo is this shop that runs dive

trips from neighbouring Yokobama Beach. Not much English is spoken, but

licensed divers can rent all the necessary gear for an underwater adventure.

It’s a 20-minute walk from Jōgasaki-Kaigan Station.

Yokikan

ONSEN

( MAP ; 陽気館; %0557-37-3101; www.yokikan.co.jp; 2-24 Suehiro-chō; ¥1000; h11am-3pm) Part of a hotel, this rooftop rotemburo has the novelty of only being

accessible via a rickety in-house funicular. It’s mixed bathing, with distant

views over the town and the sea. Small tattoos aren’t a problem.

Ryokufuen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 緑風園; %0557-37-1885; www.ryokufuen.com; 3-1 Otonashi-chō; ¥1000; h1.30-10pm) Soak away in this tranquil rotemburo with its rocky waterfall under a canopy

of trees. Follow the river inland from K’s House (on the opposite bank) and

you’ll reach it in less than 10 minutes. K’s House guests receive a 50%

discount.

4 Sleeping

o K’s House Itō Onsen

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; ケイズハウス伊東温泉; %0557-35-9444; www.kshouse.jp; 12-13 Higashi

Matsubara-chō; dm ¥2950 s/d from ¥4800/7600; naiW)

Hugely popular with travellers, this 100-year-old riverside ryokan is an

architectural treasure and an absolute steal. Japanese-style private rooms

simply ooze history (book a river view), while the common areas are stylish

and well-maintained. With a fully equipped kitchen, bicycle rental, helpful

staff, and public and private onsen, K’s is frankly the main reason to come to

Itō. Book early.

The hostel shares the same architectural layout and fine carpentry as

Tōkaikan next door (apparently the original owners were related); the

difference being you can actually stay here.

Yamaki Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 山喜旅館; %0557-37-4123; www.ito-yamaki.jp; 4-7 Higashi Matsubara-chō; s/d from

¥8790/16,200, without meals ¥5550/11,100; aW)

A block east of Tōkaikan is this charming wooden inn from the 1940s with

an onsen bath, old fashioned gym and pleasant rooms, some with ocean

views. On weekends you can only book rooms with meals included. Almost

no English; theTourist Information Center can make a reservation for you.

5 Eating & Drinking

Hamazushi

SUSHI

¥

( MAP ; はま寿司; %557-35-5522; 546-40 Oyukawa; sushi from ¥100; h11am-10.30pm; v)

This roadstop chain restaurant opposite the beach has zero character, but

who cares when it’s this cheap, tasty and fun? Choose from bargain-priced

bites like nigiri, maki, fried chicken and ramen using a touch screen and

watch them whiz to your table at high speed on a conveyor. Isn’t technology

wonderful?

Kunihachi

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP ; 国八; %0557-37-9186; 10-2 Higashimatsubarachō; dishes ¥370-1000; h5.30-11.30pm Wed-

Sun; v)

A cute izakaya cluttered with eclectic decor. The menu caters to all with

cheap and tasty dishes such as jumbo okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes),

tempura and sashimi sets , alongside more outlandish options like fried

crocodile and horse or deer sashimi. It has a great vegetarian selection, too.

Bora Noya

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; ぼら納屋; %0557-51-1247; www.boranaya.com; 833 Futo; meals ¥850-3200; h9.30am-4pm Fri-Wed Apr-Sep, to 3.30pm Oct-Mar)

Fish brought in to neighbouring Futo port supply the pearlescent sashimi

platters at this former fishing lodge dating back to the 17th century. ‘Bora’

refers to the striped mullet that migrate along the coast and have sustained a

fishing industry here since the Edo period. From Itō Station, take the bus to

Jōgasakiguchi (¥700, 40 minutes).

Freaks

BAR

( MAP ; %0557-37-4560; 2-3 Matsukawa-chō; h8pm-2am)

Intimate bar spinning soul and funk vinyl, on the main road towards the

station from the Matsukawa.

8 Information

For online info, check out www.itospa.com.

Tourist Information Center (%0557-37-6105; 1-8-3 Yukawa; h9am-5pm) Across from

Itō Station, the TIC has loads of info on the Izu Peninsula and a detailed Itō

map.

8 Getting There & Away

The JR limited-express Odoriko service runs from Tokyo Station to Itō

(¥4510, one hour and 40 minutes). Itō is connected to Atami by the JR Itō

line (¥320, 22 minutes).

From Itō, the Izukyūkō (aka Izukyū) line goes to Shimoda (¥1620, one

hour and 10 minutes), stopping at Jōgasaki-kaigan (¥580, 20 minutes). There

are six buses daily to Shuzen-ji (¥1130, one hour).

During summer and some major holidays, Tōkai Kisen ( MAP ; 東海汽船;

%03-5472-9999; www.tokaikisen.co.jp; h9.30am-8pm) jetfoils depart from Itō’s tiny port (http://itoport.info; 1-17-9 Wada) to Ō-shima (¥3560, 35 minutes) once a day. At

other times, you’ll have to go to Atami to reach Ō-shima.

Shimoda 下田

%0558 / POP 22,931

Shimoda (下田) holds a pivotal place in Japan’s history as the spot where the

nation officially opened to the outside world after centuries of near isolation.

This legacy is preserved in shrines, culturally significant locations and

folklore, as well as the ersatz ‘black ships’ that take tourists on harbour

cruises. The small port’s laid-back vibe is also perfectly suited to an

exploration of its surrounding beaches, which are some of the best in Izu.

Shimoda

1 Top Sights

1 Perry Road

B4

1 Sights

2 Museum of the Black Ship

A3

3 Ryōsen-ji & Chōraku-ji

A3

4 Shimoda Kōen

B4

4 Sleeping

5 Hotel Marseille

B1

6 Yamane Ryokan

B2

5 Eating

7 Ahoya

B4

8 Edy Burger

B2

9 Gorosaya

B2

10 Nami Nami

A3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

11 Cubstar

A3

12 Soul Bar Tosaya

A4

8 Transport

13 Nippon Rent-a-Car

B1

14 Toyota Rent-a-Car

B1

1 Sights

o Perry Road

STREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ペリーロード) It takes less than 10 minutes to walk end-to-end of this quaint cobbled street

shadowing a narrow stream leading to Ryōsen-ji temple. However, the

appealing ambience of old houses under willow trees now occupied by cafes,

jazz bars, boutique shops and restaurants will encourage you to linger.

At the east end, you can enter the old Sawamura’s House (c 1915),

overlooking the corner of the canal, which used to belong to a mayor of

Shimoda.

Gyokusen-ji

TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 玉泉寺; 31-6 Kakisaki; museum adult/child ¥400/200; h8am-5pm) Founded in 1590, this Zen temple is most famous as the first Western

consulate in Japan, established in 1856. A small museum has artefacts of the

life of American Townsend Harris, the first consul general. It’s a 25-minute

walk from Shimoda Station, or take bus 9 to Kakisaki-jinja-mae (¥240, five

minutes).

Ryōsen-ji & Chōraku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 了仙寺・長楽寺; Perry Rd) F

A 15-minute walk south of Shimoda Station is Ryōsen-ji, site of the treaty

that opened Shimoda, signed by Commodore Perry and representatives of

the Tokugawa shogunate. The temple’s Museum of the Black Ship ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 了仙寺宝物館, Hōmotsukan; %0558-22-2805; www.mobskurofune.com; 3-12-12 Shimoda; adult/child ¥500/250; h8.30am-5pm) stands streetside, with the temple

beyond. Just beyond the temple’s east gate at Perry Rd, a set of steps takes

you up to Chōraku-ji, where a Russo-Japanese treaty was signed in 1854;

look for the cemetery and namako-kabe (black-and-white lattice-patterned)

walls.

Shimoda Kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 下田公園・和歌の浦遊歩道; 3-1174 Sanchōme) If you keep walking east from Perry Rd, you can climb the steps into the

hillside park of Shimoda Kōen, which overlooks the bay. It’s loveliest in

June, when the hydrangeas are in bloom.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SURFING SHIMODA

The beaches around Shimoda are some of Japan’s best surf spots. While it’s a year-round

surfing destination, waves are best between June and September. Shirahama is the most popular

and its small but constant break gets packed in summer. The beaches in Kisami, just south of

Shimoda, are among some of the best. Ōhama (大浜) has the largest stretch of sand and

consistent waves, Irita (入田) is especially good when a southerly rolls in, and Tatado (多々

戸) has arguably the most consistent waves on the peninsula. Board rentals are available in both

Shirahama and Kisami.

4 Sleeping

Shimoda has a fair spread of accommodation, but if you don’t mind being

outside of the action (or have your own transport) there are nicer, more

beachy places to stay in Shirahama or Kisami.

Yamane Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; やまね旅館; %0558-22-0482; 1-19-15 Shimoda; r per person from

¥4750; pa)

Neat Japanesestyle rooms in a sprawling family home. The owners speak

next to no English but are friendly and welcoming, and the central location is

handy.

Hotel Marseille

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0558-23-8000; www.hotel-marseille.jp; 1-1-5 Higashi Hongo; s/d from

¥8000/15,500; aW)

Next to the station, the Marseille adds a little je ne sais quoi to the standard

business-hotel offering with well-maintained, pleasant rooms and a tea

lounge providing free coffee in the morning.

5 Eating

Ahoya

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP ; 3-12 Yukawa; snacks from ¥380; h11am-5pm Fri-Sun, daily in summer)

In a 140-year-old former shipping workshop, this funky snack shack hawks

yummy tako-yaki (fried wheat balls filled with octopus) and shimodoyaki, its

own creation with squid, shrimp, egg and seaweed. During winter it also

grills oysters. Turn left at the east end of Perry Rd and it’s the last building

on the right before the harbour; look for the painted red octopus.

Edy Burger

BURGERS

¥

( MAP ; www.edyburger.com; Nanz Village; burgers ¥850-1350; h11.30am-8pm, closed Wed, to 5pm outside summer)

A hip young family moved here from Yokohama run this tiny burger counter

grilling a range of stacked sandwiches including spicy chilli, three cheese,

and avocado, along with fried chicken, tacos and a daily soup. It’s in the

Nanz Village complex.

o Gorosaya

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ごろさや; %0558-23-5638; 1-5-25 Shimoda; set menus ¥1700-3300; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm)

Elegant, understated ambience and fantastic seafood. The isōjiru soup is

made from more than a dozen varieties of shellfish and looks like a tide pool

in a bowl. The sashimi-don (rice bowl), not on the English menu, is also

excellent. Look for the wooden fish decorating the entrance. Book ahead on

weekends and holidays, or arrive early.

Nami Nami

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 開国厨房なみなみ; %0558-23-3302; 3-3-26 Shimoda; skewers/small plates from ¥150/550; h5pm-midnight)

This friendly counter bar has a retro vibe and an inventive menu including

local fish (honjitsu no sakana) and assorted delicacies served yakitori-style

or breaded and fried. Look for the yellow sign.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Cubstar

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0558-27-3225; 4-7-22 Shimoda; coffee ¥500; h11am-10pm, closed Tue & 2nd Mon of the month; W)

Run by a cool couple who abandoned Tokyo for the slower life of Shimoda,

this cafe-bar offers excellent coffee and alcoholic beverages, plus pasta and

paninis (mains ¥1000). Look for it opposite the green church.

Soul Bar Tosaya

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 土佐屋; %0558-27-0587; 3-14-30 Shimoda; h7pm-midnight) Halfway along Perry Rd, this atmospheric spot mashes up a traditional

residence from the era of the Black Ships with a soul-music bar. Note the

¥500 ‘music charge’ per person. It also serves meals.

8 Information

Shimoda’s official online tourism portal can be found at www.shimoda-

city.com.

A The Shimoda Tourist Association (下田市観光協会; %0558-22-1531;

www.shimoda-city.info; 2nd fl, 1-1 Sotogaoka; h9am-5pm) in the port area has Englishspeaking staff and various maps and guides to the town.

A At the tourist office (観光案内所; %0558-22-1531; www.shimoda-city.info; 1-1

Sotogaoka; h10am-5pm) opposite the station, staff speak very little English, but

they will arm you with maps and can call the English-speaking staff at the

port branch for you to assist with accommodation booking.

A The Sun Lovers Cafe (サンラバーズカフェ; %0558-27-2686; 1-21-9 Higashi-

hongo; h11.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sat; Wc) offers free wi-fi, an English-language book

swap, tourist info, a kids’ playroom and light meals.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Tōkai buses run to Dōgashima (¥1360, one hour) via Matsuzaki.

Car Rental is available at Nippon Rent-a-Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ニッポン

レンタカー; %0558-22-5711; www.nipponrentacar.co.jp; Shimoda eki-mae; per day from ¥6500; h8am-7pm) and Toyota Rent-a-Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トヨタレンタカー;

%0558-27-0100, reservations in English 0800-7000-815; www.rent.toyota.co.jp; 1-5-30 Higashihongō;

per day from ¥6500; h8am-8pm Apr-Dec, to 6pm Jan-Mar) by the train station.

Ferry Serving the Izu Islands Kōzu-shima, Shikine-jima, Nii-jima and Tō-

shima, Shinshin Kisen (神新汽船株式会社; %03-3436-1146, 0558-22-2626;

www.shinshin-kisen.jp; 18 Sanchōme) ferries depart Shimoda at 9.30am daily (except Wednesdays) on a loop of the islands, returning at 4.30pm. You can purchase

a ticket to the island of your choice (prices are seasonal) or, if you really like

boat trips, do a return day cruise (adult/child ¥5760/2890, no disembarkation

allowed).

Train Shimoda is as far as you can go by train on the Izu Peninsula.

Limited-express Odoriko tokkyū run to Izukyu-Shimoda Station from Tokyo

Station, on the hour between 9am and 1pm (¥6260 to ¥6640, 2¾ hours), and

Atami (¥3480, 80 minutes); regular Izukyūko trains run from Atami (¥1940,

1½ hours) and Itō (¥1620, one hour). Try to catch Izukyū’s Resort 21 train or

the Super View Odoriko, both with bigger windows and enhanced seating for

those rugged coastal vistas.

Or if you want to travel in serious style, the Royal Express, a train

launched in 2017, chugs between Yokohama and Shimoda, pulling designer

carriages, a haute cuisine dining car, and even a bar carriage with piano and

stained glass ceiling (from ¥25,000, www.the-royalexpress.jp).

Shirahama 白浜海岸

%0558 / POP 21,534

Five kilometres from Shimoda, Shirahama (白浜海岸; meaning ‘white-sand

beach’) is a mellow resort town set back from the sea that fills up with

Kantō-area surfers and students during holiday weekends. At the north end

of the main beach you’ll find the 2400-year-old Shirahama-jinja shrine

with its photogenic torii overhanging the ocean.

2 Activities

Shirahama Mariner

SURFING

( MAP ; 白浜マリーナ; %0558-22-6002; www.mariner.co.jp; 2752-16 Shirahama; board rental

¥1000-4000, surf lessons from ¥9000; h9am-9pm)

This surf school opposite the beach rents boards, conducts surf lessons, and

has an attached shop selling surf accessories, magazines and clothing.

Irie Coffee & Sea

SURFING

( MAP ; %0558-36-4333; 1737 Shirahama; board rental ¥1000-4000, 2hr surf lessons ¥8000; h10m-

7pm Wed-Mon, hours vary low season)

Opposite the Shirahama-jinja is this surf school and cafe with board rental,

surf lessons, speciality coffee and karaage (Japanese fried chicken)

sandwiches.

Also has hot showers and changing rooms.

4 Sleeping

o A Million Roses

PENSION

¥

( MAP ; 百万本のバラ; %558-25-5522; 2733-9 Shirahama; s/tw ¥5400/7000, incl 2 meals

¥8000/13,600; paW)

A perfect hillside location means glorious sea views and easy beach access

from this twee pension, which is all pink carpets, frilly lace and piped

classical music inside. Most rooms have sea views, as does the terrace area.

Book with meals to enjoy hearty Japanese and Western repasts in the

communal dining room. Limited English spoken.

Papa’s Restaurant

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP ; パパス; %0558-22-0225; 1262-3 Shirahama; pizzas from ¥1050; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm, closed Tue)

Cosy diner with vintage toy cars, gingham tablecloths and surfboards on the

walls. Serves light fare such as pizza, salads and omurice (omelette and fried

rice). It’s about an eight-minute walk from Shirahamajinja, away from the

beach.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus 9 runs frequently from Izukyu-Shimoda Station to Shirahama (¥360, 10

minutes).

Kisami きさみ

%0558 / POP 2276

Our pick of Izu’s seaside getaways is laid-back Kisami (きさみ). Most

famous for its long surf beach Ōhama (大浜), Kisami is also well placed for

access to other nearby surf beaches Irita (入田) and Tatado (多々戸).

2 Activities

Real

SURFING

( MAP ; %0558-27-0771; www.realsurf.jp; 1612-1 Kisami; board rental ¥4000, 90min lessons ¥9720; h10am-7pm)

Rents out shortboards and longboards, and conducts lessons at Ōhama. Also

gives stand-up paddleboard lessons (¥9720). Its website has lots of English

info on the surf scene. The shop sells boards, wetsuits and gear.

Baguse Surf School

SURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バグースサーフショップ＆サーフィンスクール;

%0558-22-2558; www.baguse.jp; 58-8 Tatado; board rental from ¥3300, 90min lessons from ¥5500; h10am-4pm Apr-Nov)

This Tatadobased operation a few minutes up from the beach offers lessons

and board rentals.

4 Sleeping

o Wabi Sabi

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; %0558-22-4188; www.wabisabishimoda.com; 2735 Kisami; dm/s/d with shared bathroom

from ¥3500/5000/8000; hApr-Sep; aW)

An idyllic retreat enveloped by greenery but only five minutes’ walk from

Ōhama beach. The old Japanese house here perfectly embodies the wabi-

sabi (beauty in imperfection) aesthetic and is expertly managed by Angela

and Yasu, who also run nearby Tabi Tabi. Wabi Sabi has a large shared

kitchen, a vegetarian cafe, tatami rooms and shared bathrooms in a peaceful

setting.

Families and groups of four to five can also choose from two beautifully

renovated rental cottages (from ¥25,000). Note that Wabi Sabi closes

between October and April.

Tabi Tabi

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP ; %090-6513-5578; www.tabitabiizu.com; 1658 Kisami; s/d ¥6000/9000; naW) This relaxed four-room lodge, owned by the same folks who run Wabi Sabi,

is on the road leading towards Ōhama and handy for the bus into Shimoda.

Ernest House

B&B

¥¥

( MAP ; アーネストハウス; %0558-22-5880; www.ernest-house.com; 1893-1 Kisami; r per

person from ¥6480; pnaiW)

Two minutes’ walk from Ōhama surf beach, this clean clapboard pension,

named after Hemingway, has a quaint beach-house vibe and bicycles for

rent.

5 Eating

Kisami’s restaurants are fun social hubs, especially during the summer when

opening hours stretch later.

Wabi Sabi Cafe

FUSION

¥

( MAP ; %0558-22-4188; www.wabisabishimoda.com; 2735 Kisami; dishes ¥850-1100; h10am-8pm; Wv) F

Choose from chair or hammock to savour the serenity at this homespun cafe,

part of Wabi Sabi guesthouse, serving veggie and vegan Japanese fusion

food. Dishes like edamame hummus, vegan Massaman curry, and a sweet

and spicy hot tofu sandwich are made with love and local ingredients.

Hours are reduced outside of summer, so call ahead.

Cafe Mellow

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; %0558-27-2327; 1893-1 Kisami; meals ¥1000-1500; h11am-11pm, closed Tue, Fri & 2nd

Wed of the month; W)

Sun streams into this weatherboard cafe-bar where locals and tourists dine

on beach fare such as burgers, pizza and seafood barbecues (order a day

ahead). Attached to Ernest House

Open daily during July and August.

o South Cafe

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP ; サウスカフェ; %0558-25-5015; www.southcafe.net; 918-2 Kisami; mains ¥1000-1130; h11.30am-9pm, closed Thu; W)

It’s well worth dragging yourself away from the beach for the tasty

sandwiches, burgers, salads and curries (not to mention the must-have

brownies) at this stylish diner. The drip coffee (with free refills) is also

excellent. It’s a five-minute walk north along the main road from the Kisami

bus stop.

8 Getting There & Away

From Izukyū Shimoda Station, take an Irōzaki-bound bus (lane 3 or 4; ¥270,

10 minutes) to Kisami, from where Ōhama beach is a 15-minute walk.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

YAMABUSHI TRAIL TOUR

The mountains inland from Matsuzaki were once criss-crossed with pathways and trails, part of

Izu’s ancient charcoal industry. Overgrown and long forgotten, they were rediscovered by a

band of bike-mad locals who have so far cleared 40km of trails for mountain biking.

Yamabushi Trail Tour ( MAP ; %0558-36-3737; www.yamabushi-trail-tour.com; 379-2

Matsuzaki; 1 day per person ¥8500, bike & safety gear hire ¥2000-3000; h8am-5pm) has

options from ‘beginner’ to ‘epic’ (the longest trail a 550m vertical descent from mountaintop to

sea).

More experienced riders can opt for two-day tours that go further afield. Yambushi also

operates a guesthouse on the edge of town, Mondo Lodge, with dorms, private ensuites, and an

onsen.

Dōgashima 堂ヶ島

%0558

Dōgashima (堂ヶ島) has a dramatic coastline, best enjoyed from the steamy

perspective of an onsen or on the tourist boats that squeeze thrillingly into

sea caves. The cliff-edge park has excellent views too, and at low tide you

can walk across the tombolo, a sandbar connecting the tiny island of Zo-

jima.

2 Activities

Dōgashima Marine

CRUISE

( MAP ; 堂ケ島マリン; %0558-52-0013; www.izudougasima-yuransen.com; 20/50min cruises

¥1200/2300)

Dramatic rock formations and sea caves around the Dōgashima coast are

best experienced from these cruises, which depart from the jetty just beyond

the TIC, in front of the bus stop.

A highlight is sailing into the Tensōdō (天窓洞), a cave lit by a natural

skylight in the rock (you can also peer down from the top by hiking the cliff

path). In choppy seas only the 20-minute cave cruise operates.

Sawada-kōen Rotemburo

ONSEN

( MAP ; 沢田公園露天風呂; 2817-1 Sawada Nishina; adult/child ¥600/200; h9am-6pm Wed-

Mon Oct-Feb, to 7pm Mar-May & Sep, to 8pm Jun-Aug)

Set directly on a cliff overlooking an open view of the ocean is this small

rotemburo (outdoor onsen; separate bathing). It’s a 15-minute walk south

from Dōgashima, or hop on a Matsuzaki-bound bus for one stop. Then skirt

around the back of Noribama Beach, passing the fishing port on your left

and head for the cliffs. It can get very busy at sunset but at other times you

may have the place to yourself.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Dōgashima is a small onsen resort with limited accommodation, so book

ahead or stay in neighbouring Matsuzaki. During the day, you’ll find several

dining options near the jetty area.

Umibe-no-Kakureyu Seiryu

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 海辺のかくれ湯清流; %0558-52-1118; www.n-komatu.co.jp; 2941 Nishina; per person incl 2 meals from ¥17,800; paiW)

Enjoy sensational sea views from the tatami guestrooms at this cliffside

ryokan. A variety of baths are on offer, including a men’s rotemburo down

on the beach with crashing waves, and the women’s overlooking the ocean

slightly higher up. It’s a five-minute walk north from the Dōgashima bus

stop.

8 Information

Dōgashima Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; %0558-52-1268; www.nishiizu-

kankou.com; 2910-2 Nishina; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, daily Jul & Aug) Just up from

the cruise pier, and can help with accommodation booking, though English is

limited.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run to Dōgashima from Shimoda (¥1400, one hour, every 30 minutes),

via Matsuzaki (¥270, eight minutes).

Shuzen-ji Onsen 修善寺温泉

%0558 / POP 16,328

Shuzen-ji Onsen (修善寺温泉) is a quaint hot-spring village in a central Izu

valley bisected by the rushing Katsura-gawa. Narrow lanes, red-lacquered

bridges and a bamboo forest path make it perfect for strolling, and it’s a

good base to explore the peninsula’s lush heartlands. One of Japan’s most

esteemed onsen ryokan is here, and inns around town offer day-use bathing.

1 Sights

Shuzen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 修善寺; www.shuzenji-temple.com; 964 Shuzen-ji; h8.30am-4pm) F

In the middle of the village is its namesake temple, said to have been

founded over 1200 years ago by Kōbō Daishi, the priest credited with

spreading Buddhism throughout much of Japan. Zazen sessions take place

on Tuesdays at 9.30am (one hour) and are free to participate in.

You can wander the pleasant temple grounds for free but there’s a fee if

you wish to see inside the small treasure museum (修禅寺宝物殿; %0558-72-

0053; adult/child ¥300/200), which contains ancient carved buddhas and other

religious works of art.

Shoko Kanazawa Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 金澤翔子美術館; %0558-73-2900; www.shokokanazawa.net; 970 Shuzen-ji; adult/child ¥600/300; h11am-3pm, closed Thu)

Kanazawa Shoko (www.k-shoko.org), who has Down syndrome, has been

doing calligraphy since she was five years old. Her vividly expressive

pieces, as well as a video of her creating calligraphic work, are displayed in

an annex of the Arai Ryokan.

Jōren-no-taki

WATERFALL

( MAP ; 浄蓮の滝; Yugashima; h8.30am-5pm) F

Half an hour by bus from Shuzen-ji Station is this 25m waterfall in a ravine.

Wasabi plants thrive in the river here; the roadstop gift shop sells tasty (and

mild) wasabi soft-serve ice cream. You can also pick up the 3km Amagi

Hiking Trail from the falls to the village of Yugashima Onsen, and catch the

return bus from there.

2 Activities

Tokko-no-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 独鈷の湯, Iron-Club Waters; h24hr) F

Perched on the river is this picturesque thermal footbath. Legend says it was

dug by hand by Kōbō Daishi himself.

Hako-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 筥湯; %0558-72-5282; 925 Shuzen-ji; ¥350; hnoon-9pm)

Soothe your aching limbs at this elegant, contemporary onsen facility that’s

identified by its 12m-high wooden tower.

4 Sleeping

Hostel Knot

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; %055-878-0261; www.hostelknot.com; 985-1 Shuzen-ji; dm/tw ¥3200/6400; naiW) A beautifully restored old house with mixed and female-only capsule-style

dorms, one tatami twin and friendly young staff.

Goyōkan

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP ; 五葉館; %0558-72-2066; www.goyokan.co.jp; 765-2 Shuzen-ji; r per person incl/excl 2

meals from ¥16,000/9500; pnaW)

Stylish tatami rooms, some with river views, are offered at this sleek, small

contemporary ryokan. Shared (indoor) baths are made of stone and hinoki

cypress. Some English is spoken.

o Arai Ryokan

RYOKAN

$$$

( MAP ; 新井旅館; %0558-72-2007; www.arairyokan.net; 970 Shuzen-ji; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥24,840; aW)

Long beloved by Japanese artists and writers, this gem of an inn was

founded in 1872 and has kept its traditional, wood-crafted heritage. The

main bath hall, designed by artist Yasuda Yukihiko, is grand, and the

riverside rooms are particularly lovely in autumn when the maples are

ablaze.

5 Eating & Drinking

Zenfutei Nana ban

NOODLES

¥¥

( MAP ; 禅風亭なゝ番; %0558-72-0007; 761-1-3 Shuzen-ji; meals ¥630-1890; h10am-4pm,

closed Thu)

This institution serves the local noodle speciality, zendera soba (¥1260),

with a stalk of fresh wasabi root to grate yourself – they even give you a

plastic bag in which to take home the precious wasabi root leftovers. Expect

to queue in high season.

Baird Brewery Beer Garden

BEER GARDEN

( MAP ; ベアードブルワリーガーデン修善寺; %0558-73-1225; www.bairdbeer.com;

1052-1 Ōdaira; hnoon-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun)

Sample some lovely craft beers in a peaceful setting, or take a brewery tour

(check the website for tour times). From Shuzen-ji Station, take a Laforet

Shuzenji Iriguchi–bound bus from lane 3 or 4 (20 minutes).

8 Information

Tourist Information Office ( MAP ; 631-7 Kashiwakubo; %0558-72-0271;

www.shuzenji.info; h9am-5pm) At Shuzen-ji Station, where you can pick up a

sightseeing map in English.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus services connect Shuzen-ji Station to Shuzen-ji Onsen (¥220, 10

minutes), Itō (¥1130, one hour) and Dōgashima (¥2030, 1½ hours). For

Shimoda, you can catch the bus to Kawazu Station (¥1700, 1½ hours) and

change to the train for the last leg to Izukyu-Shimoda Station (¥490, 17

minutes).

By train From Tokyo, take the Tōkaidō line to Mishima (Kodama

shinkansen ¥4520, 45 minutes) then transfer to the Izu-Hakone Tetsudō for

Shuzen-ji (¥510, 35 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Battery-assisted bicycles can be hired from Izu Velo ( MAP ; いずベロ; %558-

72-0111; www.izuvelo.com/en; 633-8 Kashiwakubo; half/full day ¥1000/2000; h9am-5pm), just outside the train station.

IZU ISLANDS 伊豆諸島

The peaks of a submerged volcanic chain extending 300km into the Pacific

make up the Izu Islands (伊豆諸島; Izu-shotō), a world away from Tokyo.

Soaking in an onsen while gazing at the ocean is the classic Izu Islands

activity, as is hiking up the mostly dormant volcanoes and along the pristine

beaches. Snorkelling, surfing and fishing are also popular. Island-hopping is

possible on daily ferries and hydrofoils that run up and down the

archipelago, but check schedules carefully, as they change frequently.

Booking ahead for the limited accommodation on the islands is a must

during the summer. All the islands have campsites with washing facilities.

For more information on the whole chain, which includes To-shima (利

島), Kōzu-shima (神津島), Miyake-jima (三宅島) and Mikurajima (御蔵

島), where it’s possible to swim with dolphins, see www.tokyo-islands.com.

8 Getting There & Away

Though you can fly to the Izu Islands, the most economical and convenient

way to get there is by hydrofoil. If you plan to spend any time on the Izu

Peninsula, it’s faster and cheaper to travel from Atami, Itō or Shimoda than

from Tokyo.

AIR

ANA (ww.ana.co.jp) has flights from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Hachijō-

jima (from ¥12,990, 55 minutes).

New Central Airservice (www.central-air.co.jp) flies between Chōfu

Airport (on the Keiō line about 20 minutes from Shinjuku) and Ō-shima

(¥11,800, 30 minutes) and Nii-jima (¥14,100, 40 minutes) as well as some of

the other islands.

BOAT

Tōkai Kisen operates hydrofoils and ferries from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier

(竹芝桟橋; Takeshiba Sanbashi; %03-3432-8081; www.tptc.co.jp; 1-16-3 Kaigan, Minato-ku; dJR

Yamanote line to Hamamatsuchō, north exit), a 10-minute walk from the north exit of

Hamamatsu-chō Station. Takeshiba Station, on the driverless, elevated

Yurikamome line, is directly next to the pier.

Hydrofoils service Ō-shima (¥7400, 1¾ hours), Nii-jima (¥9410, 2½

hours), Shikine-jima (¥9410, two hours 50 minutes) and the other inner

islands; you can also use them to hop between islands. A slower, cheaper

overnight passenger ferry departs mosts nights at 10pm for Ō-shima (¥4450,

eight hours), Nii-jima (¥5980, 10½ hours) and Shikine-jima (¥5980, 11

hours); return service is during the day.

These islands are also serviced by ferries and hydrofoils from the Izu

Peninsula – covering less distance, and thus cheaper than those from Tokyo

– at Atami and Shimoda ports. From Atami, get a Tōkai Kisen hydrofoil to

Ō-shima (¥4710, 45 minutes). From Shimoda, Shinshin Kisen ferries serve

Nii-jima and Shikine-jima (three to four hours, ¥4110).

Tōkai Kisen’s passenger ferry Salvia-maru departs from Tokyo for

Hachijō-jima (¥8600, 10½ hours) once daily at 10.30pm, arriving at 8.50am,

then returning to Tokyo at 9.40am.

Boat schedules change monthly and can be affected by adverse weather.

The decision to cancel hydrofoils due to heavy seas or typhoons is made at

6am on morning of departure and posted online at www.tokaikisen.co.jp.

Note that prices change seasonally and to reflect fluctuating fuel prices.

Ō-shima 大島

%04992 / POP 7762

The largest of the Izu Islands, the closest to Tokyo and generally the most

interesting to visit is Ō-shima (大島). It has a relaxed, rustic charm and is

particularly known for its profusion of scarlet camellia flowers (best viewed

in February and March) as well as its active volcano Mihara-san, which last

erupted in 1990.

1 Sights & Activities

Hire a car or scooter in the main port of Motomachi (元町), or hop on one

of the irregular buses to reach Ō-shima’s rocky southernmost point, Tōshiki-

no-hana (トウシキの鼻), with good swimming in sheltered pools below

Tōshiki Camp-jō.

In unfavourable weather, ferries will dock at Okata (岡田), on the

northern end of the island, rather than at the usual Motomachi port on the

west coast.

o Mihara-san

VOLCANO

(三原山)

A road runs to the slope of the volcano, from where you can see Mt Fuji on a

clear day. From here, you can hike 45 minutes to the 754m summit to peer

into the still-steaming crater. It’s another 45-minute hike around the rim of

the crater, with stellar views 360 degrees around – it’s fascinating to observe

the path of previous lava flows. The Ō-shima Tourist Association can help

with taxis and bus schedules.

There’s great interpretive signage in English at various points of interest

(and concrete shelters, just in case).

Motomachi Hama-no-yu

ONSEN

(元町浜の湯; 882 Motomachi; adult/child ¥300/150; h1-7pm Sep-Jun, from 11am Jul & Aug)

A short stroll from Motomachi port is this attractive outdoor onsen with

great views of the ocean, and Mt Fuji, too, if the weather is clear. It’s mixed,

so bring your bathing suit, or you can rent one.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Tōshiki Camp-jō

CAMPGROUND

(トウシキキャンプ場; %04992-2-1446) F

At the very south of the island, this well-maintained stretch of grass has a

nice location overlooking the sea, as well as showers and a communal

cooking area. The Ō-shima Tourist Association can assist with advance

booking (required) and transport arrangements.

A 10-minute walk from the campsite is a natural rock pool in the ocean,

popular for snorkelling and swimming.

o Book Tea Bed

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(%04992-7-5972; dm/s/d/q ¥4000/5000/12,000/22,000; naW)

A few steps south of Motomachi port, this hip hang-out has sunny capsule

dorms with partial sea views, and smart private rooms with a fridge, safe and

TV – try to bag the one with a balcony facing the ocean and Mt Fuji. There’s

also a simple bar-cafe for cocktails, coffee and comfort food like curry udon

(from ¥800).

Island Star House

INN

¥¥

(アイランドスターハウス大島; %050-1227-7940; www.island-star-house.com; per

person with shared bathroom from ¥5500; paW)

In the woods just north of Ō-shima’s tiny airport is this bright-yellow ‘secret

house’, a secluded lodge with just two Japanese-style rooms (each sleeping

up to five), a shared kitchen, and free use of bikes, snorkels, fishing gear and

a barbecue. Pick-up from either of Ō-shima’s ports can be arranged in

advance.

Minato Sushi

SUSHI

$$

(港鮨; %04992-4-0002; １ Habuminato; meals around ¥1500; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon)

This sushi restaurant on the south coast is considered the island’s best by

locals, and so it pays to book ahead. A must-try is bekko sushi, made with

fish marinated in soy sauce and island chilli peppers.

8 Information

For maps and detailed information on accommodation options and things to

do, check out www.izu-oshima.or.jp.

Ō-shima Tourist Association (大島観光協会; %04992-2-2177; www.izu-

oshima.or.jp; h8.30am-5pm) Located near the pier in Motomachi. There are no

English speakers but there is a free translation phone system, Gaikokugo

110, by which they can call English-speaking volunteers from 8am to 8pm.

Otherwise, they can usually call Englishspeaking staff at the town office.

Nii-jima 新島

%04992

Nii-jima (新島) attracts surfers from all over Kantō who converge on

Habushi-ura (羽伏浦), a blazing 6.5km stretch of white sand that runs over

half Nii-jima’s length. Aside from seductive beaches and surf spots,

Niijima’s other main attraction is Yunohama Onsen (湯の浜温泉; h24hr) F, a

whimsical rotemburo overlooked by faux Greek ruins which has several tubs

built into the rocks. It’s mixed bathing so you’ll need a swimsuit. Popular

after dark for steamy stargazing. It’s a 1km walk south from the ferry pier.

The Nii-jima Tourist Association (新島観光協会; %04992-5-0001; Kuroishi;

h7.30am-5pm, 8.30am-5pm in winter) has a super-helpful tourist information counter

inside the ferry terminal at Kurone port. Renting a bike from one of the

shops near the port is a great way of getting around this small island.

If ocean conditions aren’t ideal, ferries will dock at Wakago port at the

northern end of the island; from there, free buses shuttle passengers to the

regular port of Kurone.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Habushi-ura Camp-jo

CAMPGROUND

(羽伏浦キャンプ場; %04992-5-1068) F

With a stunning mountain backdrop and spacious, grassy sites, this

campground is a winner, and it’s only about 10 minutes’ walk to the beach.

There are showers and plenty of barbecue pits to go around. Check in at the

campground clubhouse. It’s 1km north of the airstrip.

B&B Seven

INN

¥¥

(B&B セブン; %090-3304-5931, 04992-5-1106; per person ¥6000; aW)

While the second ‘B’ is no more (it doesn’t offer any food), this simple inn

is comfortable and friendly, with wood floors and a homely feel. The

friendly owner here, Ōmura-san, is an English teacher. It’s walkable from the

port; call for directions.

Sakae Sushi

SUSHI

¥¥

(栄寿司; %04992-5-0134; 5-2-9 Honson; meals ¥1850; h11.30am-2pm & 6-10pm)

This popular restaurant is a lovely spot to try shimazushi, the local speciality

sushi using fish marinated in island soy sauce and green chilli peppers.

Expect to queue at popular times.

Shikine-jima 式根島

%04992

About 6km south of Nii-jima, tiny Shikinejima (式根島) is not the island to

visit if you’re looking for some postcard-worthy, white-sand beaches, but its

compact, rocky geography and several free, mixed-gender onsen makes it

the perfect place to unplug, camp out and explore via bicycle.

The island’s best baths are at Jinata Onsen (地鉈温泉; h24hr) F, at the end

of a narrow cleft in the rocky coastline. The waters, stained a rich orange

from iron sulphide, are naturally 80°C; mixed with the cool ocean, they’re

just right. It’s a 2km walk south from the ferry pier, or ask at the tourist

office for transport options. The tide affects the temperature, so bathing

times change daily; check before making the steep descent.

Camping is free at Shikine-jima’s well-maintained campgrounds, but

visitors are required to register with the town office; stop by the Tourist

Association (式根島観光協会; %04992-7-0170; 923 Shikinejima; h8am-5pm) counter

at the pier to do so. A few steps from a quiet beach and two free onsen,

Kamanoshita Camp-jo (釜の下キャンプ場; %04992-2-0004; hMar-Jun & Sep-Nov)

F is a great little camping ground; in the low season you might have it to

yourself. No showers. Ask at the tourist office for directions and transport

options. Campers should bring most of their provisions from Tokyo.

Hachijō-jima 八丈島

%04996

About 290km south of Tokyo, Hachijō-jima (八丈島) has a culture all its

own. With two dormant volcanos, 854m Hachijō-Fuji (八丈富士) and

700m Mihara-yama (三原山), and plenty of palms it attracts visitors for its

hiking, diving and onsen. Hachijō-Fuji is the Izu Islands’ highest mountain

and affords fantastic views from the rim of the crater; in June, the island’s

forests light up at night with bioluminescent mushrooms.

At the southern end of the island, Uramiga-taki Onsen (裏見ケ滝温泉;

h10am-9pm) F overlooks a waterfall and is not to be missed – it’s pure magic in

the early evening. Soap and shampoo are prohibited here, and it’s a mixed-

sex onsen, so bring your swimsuit. It’s a 30-minute drive from Sokodo port,

just below the road.

Sokodo Camp-jō (底土キャンプ場; %04996-2-1121; 4188 Mitsune) F is an

excellent camping ground 500m north of Sokodo pier and near a beach, with

toilets, cold showers and cooking facilities. If you’re self-catering, it’s wise

to bring any special food items from Tokyo, as you won’t find much variety

on the island.

Hachijōjima Tourism Association (八丈島観光協会; %04996-2-1377;

h8.15am-5.15pm) is next to the town hall on the main road, in the centre of the

island.

CHICHIBU & OKU-TAMA

Nature conquers concrete at the western edge of Tokyo, where there’s great

hiking in the mountains of Chichibu, which includes Takao-san, less than an

hour from Tokyo, and Oku-Tama, once a popular destination for pilgrims

(and today, Tokyoites).

Takao-san 高尾山

Gentle Takao-san (高尾山; 599m) is a highly popular day trip from Tokyo

with year-round hiking. It’s rather built up compared with other regional

hikes, but with several points of interest along the main hiking trail it can

make for a perfect family outing if you avoid busy weekends and holidays.

The most popular route up Takao-san is Trail No 1, which is paved all the

way and passes by all the major points of interest. If you’re after more of a

walk-in-the-woods experience, we recommend hiking up the lovely Trail No

6, and descending via Trail No 1. If following this route, wear sturdy shoes

as there are some stream crossings and places where the trail is narrow or

slippery. You can also take a funicular railway up the mountain from

Takaosanguchi Station, and hike back down.

1 Sights

Yakuō-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(薬王院; %042-661-1115; www.takaosan.or.jp; 2177 Takao-machi, Hachioji-shi; h24hr) F

One of the chief attractions on Takao-san is this temple near Takaosanguchi

Station, best known for the Hi-watari Matsuri (Fire-crossing Ceremony),

which takes place on the second Sunday in March. Priests walk across hot

coals with bare feet in a ritual called hiwatari, amid the ceremonial blowing

of conch shells. The public is also welcome to participate.

Takao 599 Museum

MUSEUM

(%042-665-6688; www.takao599museum.jp; 2435-3 Takao-machi, Hachioji-shi; h8am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Mar; c) F

With a wealth of natural history info on the Takao-san region, this

beautifully designed museum is arranged with younger visitors in mind –

display cases of insects and fungi have toddler step stools, and there’s a kids

play area and cafe.

5 Eating

The road leading to the base of the mountain is lined with soba and ice-

cream shops.

Mt Takao Beer Garden

BUFFET

¥¥

(高尾山ビアマウント; Beer Mount; %42-665-9943; www.mount-takao.com/beermount;

men/women 2hr time limit ¥3800/3600; hmid-Jun–mid-Oct)

Fresh mountain air, serene temples and…all-you-can-drink craft beer. Day-

trippers pack out the plastic chairs and tables at this scenic perch at the top

of the funicular, gorging on buffet pasta, pizza, fried rice, ice cream and the

aforementioned beer. Grilled fish and sausages cost extra.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (%042-643-3115; Takaosanguchi Station; h8am-5pm Apr-

Nov, to 4pm Dec-Mar) There’s usually an English speaker on hand at the helpful

TIC just outside the station exit.

8 Getting There & Away

From Shinjuku Station, take the Keiō line ( jun-tokkyū, ¥390, one hour) to

Takaosanguchi. The tourist village, trail entrances, cable car and chairlift are

a few minutes away to the right. JR Pass holders can travel to Takao Station

on the JR Chūō line (48 minutes) and transfer to the Keiō line to

Takaosanguchi (¥130, two minutes).

Oku-Tama 奥多摩

%0428

Oku-Tama (奥多摩) is Tokyo’s best spot for easy hiking getaways and for

river activities along the Tama-gawa. From Takimoto (滝本) in the valley,

you can either ride a cable car or hike up for an hour via a beautiful cedar-

lined pilgrims’ path to Mitake-san (御岳山; 939m), a charming old-world

mountain hamlet that feels a world away from hyperkinetic Tokyo.

1 Sights & Activities

Near the Mitake Visitors Centre you’ll find the pilgrims’ lodge Baba-ke

Oshi-Jutaku, an amazing thatched-roof building dating from 1866. From

here, it’s another 20-minute walk up the mountain and demon-riddled steps

(look closely as you ascend) to Musashi Mitake-jinja.

Musashi Mitake-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(武蔵御嶽神社; %0428-78 -8500; www.musashimitakejinja.jp; 176 Mitake-san, Ome-shi;

h24hr) F

Atop Mitake-san is this Shintō shrine and pilgrimage site, commanding

stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and said to date back some

1200 years. The wolf imagery stems from folklore in which a lost pilgrim

was led out of a blanket of fog on the mountain by a pair of wolves, who

were then enshrined as gods of the mountain.

Ōtake-san

HIKING

(大岳山)

The five-hour round-trip hike from Musashi Mitake-jinja to the summit of

Ōtake-san (1266m) is highly recommended. Although there’s some climbing

involved, it’s a fairly easy hike and the views from the summit are excellent

– Mt Fuji is visible on clear days.

Moegi-no-Yu

ONSEN

(もえぎの湯; %0428-82-7770; www.okutamas.co.jp/moegi; 119-1 Hikawa, Okutama, Nishitama-gun; adult/child ¥780/410; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun, Oct & Nov, to 9.30pm Jul-Sep, to 7pm

Dec-Mar; dJR Ome line to Okutama)

This is a good onsen to relax in after a day hiking in the Oku-Tama region

and includes rotemburo and footbaths. It’s a 10-minute walk from the JR

Oku-Tama station.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Most visitors come for a day trip, but spending a night or two on Mitake-san

provides peace and luxurious quiet.

You’ll find several small places to eat along the lane leading to Musashi

Mitake-jinja.

Mitake Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(御嶽ユースホステル; %0428-78-8774; www.jyh.or.jp; 57 Mitake-san, Ome-shi; dm

member/nonmember ¥2970/3570, incl 2 meals ¥4950/5550; naW)

Bed down pilgrim-style on futon in tatami dorms (sleeping up to seven) at

this hostel, a handsome old building that used to be a pilgrims’ lodge. It’s

attached to and part of Reiun-sō ryokan. Find it midway between the top of

the cable car and Musashi Mitake-jinja, about a minute beyond the visitors

centre.

It’s a good idea to choose the two-meal plan, or you can pay separately for

meals (dinner is ¥1240).

Komadori San-sō

MINSHUKU

¥

(駒鳥山荘; %0428-78-8472; www.komadori.com; 155 Mitake-san, Ome-shi; r per person with

shared bathroom from ¥5940, incl 2 meals from ¥9180; iW)

Below Musashi Mitake-jinja, towards the back end of the village, this former

pilgrims’ inn brims with bric-a-brac and history – it’s been in the same

family for 17 generations. Rooms and the verandah have excellent views,

and the friendly Englishspeaking owners are a delight.

Meals are great, and you can also arrange to take a dawn hike to a stand

under a waterfall, an ascetic practice known as takigyō.

Momiji-ya

NOODLES

¥

(紅葉屋; %0428-78-8475; 151 Mitake-san, Ome-shi; mains ¥750-1200; h10am-5pm)

Near the gate of Musashi Mitake-jinja, this cosy shop has mountain views

out the back windows and serves kamo-nanban soba (noodles in hearty duck

broth).

Opening hours vary in the low season; call ahead.

8 Information

Mitake Visitors Centre (御岳ビジターセンター; %0428-78-9363; 38-5 Mitake-

san; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Pick up trail maps at this office 250m beyond the

cable-car terminus, at the start of the village.

8 Getting There & Away

Take the JR Chūō line from Shinjuku Station, changing to the JR Ōme line

at Tachikawa Station or Ōme Station depending on the service, and get off at

Mitake (¥920, 90 minutes). Buses run from Mitake Station to Takimoto

(¥280, 10 minutes) for the cable car (www.mitaketozan.co.jp; one way/return ¥560/1110; h7.30am-6.30pm) that runs up to the mountain area.

NIKKŌ & AROUND

North of Tokyo, the Kantō plain gives way to a mountainous, forested

landscape providing a fine backdrop for the spectacular shrines of Nikkō and

the beautiful nearby lake Chūzenji-ko. The whole area is within the 400-sq-

km Nikkō National Park, sprawling over Fukushima, Tochigi, Gunma and

Niigata Prefectures, offering some excellent hiking opportunities and remote

onsen.

Nikkō 日光

%0288 / POP 84,197

A natural sanctuary that enshrines the glories of the Edo period (1603–

1868), Nikkō (日光) is one of Japan’s major attractions and a World

Heritage Site. Pristine forests of towering cedars enclose a wealth of Shintō

shrines and Buddhist temples that blend harmoniously with the topography

of the setting, and reflect in their artistic splendour the awesome power of

the Tokugawa shogunate.

All this, combined with the fact that Nikkō is only a couple of hours from

Tokyo, means that in high season (summer and autumn) and at weekends,

the magic of Nikkō can be somewhat lost amid the crowds. Spending the

night here allows for an early start; a couple of nights and you can venture

into the gorgeous mountain scenery, rivers, lakes and waterfalls of the

surrounding area, much of it national park.

History

In the middle of the 8th century the Buddhist priest Shōdō Shōnin (735–817)

established a hermitage at Nikkō. For centuries the mountains served as a

training ground for Buddhist monks, though the area fell gradually into

obscurity. Nikkō’s enduring fame was sealed, however, when it was chosen

as the site for the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the warlord who

established the shogunate that ruled Japan for more than 250 years.

Ieyasu was laid to rest among Nikkō’s towering cedars at a much less

grand Tōshō-gū in 1617. Seventeen years later his grandson, Tokugawa

Iemitsu, commenced work on the colossal shrine that can be seen today,

using an army of some 15,000 artisans from across Japan who took two

years to complete the project.

Nikkō

1 Top Sights

1 Taiyūin-byō

A1

2 Tōshō-gū

C4

1 Sights

3 Futarasan-jinja

B3

4 Gōhonsha

C4

5 Gōjūnotō

B1

6 Hōmotsu-den

B2

7 Honji-dō

C4

8 Ishi-dorii

B2

9 Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum

B2

10 Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum of Art

B1

11 Okumiya

B1

12 Omote-mon

B1

13 Rinnō-ji

B2

14 Sakashita-mon

C4

15 Sanjinko

C4

16 Shin-kyō

C2

17 Shinkyūsha

C4

18 Shōyō-en

B2

19 Yōmei-mon

C4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

20 Tochigi Volunteer Interpreters & Guides Association

C4

4 Sleeping

21 Nikkō Guesthouse Sumica

G4

22 Nikkō Kanaya Hotel

C3

23 Nikkō Park Lodge

F2

24 Nikkō Station Classic Hotel

G4

25 Nikkorisou Backpackers

C2

26 Rindō-no-Ie

G2

27 Stay Nikkō Guesthouse

F3

28 Turtle Inn Nikkō

A3

5 Eating

29 Gyōshintei

C1

30 Hippari Dako

C3

31 Hongū Cafe

C2

32 Meguri

D3

33 Nagomi-chaya

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

34 Murmur Beer Stand

C3

35 Nikkō Coffee

A2

36 Yuzawaya

D3

1 Sights

o Tōshō-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東照宮; www.toshogu.jp; 2301 Sannai; adult/child ¥1300/450; h8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar)

A Unesco World Heritage Site in an idyllic natural setting, Tōshō-gū is a

lavishly ornate Shintō complex within which Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–

1616), the first shogun and founder of the Tokugawa Bakufu (Japan’s last

feudal military government) is enshrined. Among its standout structures is

the dazzling ‘Sunset Gate’ Yōmei-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 陽明門), a five-storied pagoda (五重塔; ¥300) and the grand Honji-dō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本

地堂) with its famous ‘crying dragon’. Most of what you see was

commissioned by Ieyasu’s grandson in 1636.

Sections of the shrine may be closed for repairs until 2020.

The stone steps of Omotesandō lead past the towering stone torii

(entrance gate), Ishi-dorii ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Omotesandō), and the Gōjūnotō (

MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 五重塔; Five Storey Pagoda; ¥300), an 1819 reconstruction of the original mid-17thcentury pagoda, to Omote-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 表門), Tōshō-gū’s main gateway, protected on either side by Deva kings.

In Tōshō-gū’s initial courtyard are the Sanjinko ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三神

庫; Three Sacred Storehouses); on the upper storey of the Kamijinko (upper

storehouse) are relief carvings of ‘imaginary elephants’ by an artist who had

never seen the real thing. Nearby is the Shinkyūsha ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 神厩

舎; Sacred Stable), adorned with relief carvings of monkeys. The allegorical

‘hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil’ simians demonstrate three principles

of Tendai Buddhism.

Further into Tōshō-gū’s precincts, to the left of the drum tower, is Honji-

dō (本地堂), a hall known for the painting on its ceiling of the Nakiryū

(Crying Dragon). Monks demonstrate the hall’s acoustic properties by

clapping two sticks together. The dragon ‘roars’ (a bit of a stretch) when the

sticks are clapped beneath its mouth, but not elsewhere.

Restored in 2017, the Yōmei-mon (陽明門; Sunset Gate) dazzles with its

gold leaf and delicate carvings of flowers, dancing girls, mythical beasts and

Chinese sages. Worrying that the gate’s perfection might arouse envy in the

gods, those responsible for its construction had the final supporting pillar

placed upside down as a deliberate error.

Gōhonsha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 御本社), the main inner courtyard, includes the Honden (本殿; Main Hall) and Haiden (拝殿; Hall of Worship). Inside these

halls are paintings of the 36 immortal poets of Kyoto, and a ceiling-painting

pattern from the Momoyama period; note the 100 dragons, each different.

Fusuma (sliding door) paintings depict a kirin (a mythical beast that’s part

giraffe and part dragon).

To the right of the Gōhonsha is Sakashita-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 坂下

門), into which is carved a tiny wooden sculpture of the Nemuri-neko (坂下

門) that’s famous for its lifelike appearance (though admittedly the attraction

is lost on some visitors). From here it’s an uphill path through towering

cedars to the appropriately solemn Okumiya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奥宮), Ieyasu’s tomb.

Bypassed by nearly everyone at Tōshō-gū is the marvellous Nikkō

Tōshō-gū Museum of Art ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光東照宮美術館; %0288-54-0560; www.toshogu.jp/shisetsu/bijutsu.html; 2301 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥800/400; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) in the old shrine offices, showcasing fine paintings on

its doors, sliding screens, frames and decorative scrolls, some by masters

including Yokoyama Taikan and Nakamura Gakuryo. Follow the path to the

right of Omote-mon to find it.

o Taiyūin-byō

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大猷院廟; adult/child ¥550/250; h8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar)

Ieyasu’s grandson Iemitsu (1604–51) is buried here, and although the shrine

houses many of the same elements as Tōshō-gū (drum tower, Chinese-style

gates etc), the more intimate scale, lighter tourist footfall and gorgeous

setting in a cryptomeria forest make it hugely appealing.

Look for dozens of lanterns donated by daimyō (domain lords), and the

gate Niō-mon, whose guardian deities have a hand up (to welcome those

with pure hearts) and a hand down (to suppress those with impure hearts).

Inside the main hall, 140 dragons painted on the ceiling are said to carry

prayers to the heavens; those holding pearls are on their way up, and those

without are returning to gather more prayers.

Futarasan-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 二荒山神社; www.futarasan.jp; 2307 Sannai; adult/child ¥200/100) Set among cypress trees, this atmospheric shrine was founded by Shōdō

Shōnin; the current building dates from 1619, making it Nikkō’s oldest. It’s

the protector shrine of Nikkō itself, dedicated to Nantai-san (2484m), the

mountain’s consort, Nyotai-san, and their mountainous progeny, Tarō. There

are other branches of the shrine on Nantai-san and by Chūzenji-ko.

At the time of research, parts of the shrine were closed for restoration,

slated to be completed in 2020.

Nikkō Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park

HISTORIC SITE

(日光田母沢御用邸記念公園; %0288-53-6767; www.park-tochigi.com/tamozawa; 8-27

Hon-chō; adult/child ¥510/250; h9am-4.30pm Wed-Mon)

About 1km west of Shin-kyō bridge, this splendidly restored imperial palace

(c 1899) of more than 100 rooms showcases superb artisanship, with parts of

the complex dating from the Edo, Meiji and Taishō eras. Apart from the

construction skills involved there are brilliantly detailed screen paintings and

serene garden views framed from nearly every window.

Visit in autumn to see the gardens at their most spectacular.

Rinnō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 輪王寺; %0288-54-0531; www.rinnoji.or.jp; 2300 Yamanouchi; adult/child

¥400/200; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)

This Tendai-sect temple was founded 1200 years ago by Shōdō Shōnin. The

main hall (Sanbutsu-dō) houses a trio of 8m gilded wooden Buddha statues:

Amida Nyorai (a primal deity in the Mahayana Buddhist canon) flanked by

Senjū (deity of mercy and compassion) and Batō (a horse-headed Kannon).

Its exterior is under wraps for restoration until 2020.

Rinnō-ji’s Hōmotsu-den ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宝物殿, Treasure Hall; ¥300) houses some 6000 treasures associated with the temple; the separate

admission ticket includes entrance to the Shōyō-en ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 逍遥

園) strolling garden.

You can buy a combination ticket that covers entry to Rinnō-ji and

Taiyūin-byō for ¥900.

Takinō-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(滝尾神社) F

About 1km north of the main World Heritage Site complex, close to the

Shiraito Falls, is this serene, delightfully less crowded shrine that has a

history stretching back to 820. The stone gate, called Undameshi-no-torii,

dates to 1696. Before entering, it’s customary to try your luck tossing three

stones through the small hole near the top.

Maps available at the tourist offices show the route to the shrine, which

also passes the tomb of Shōdō Shōnin.

Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss

PARK

(憾満ガ淵)

Escape the crowds along this riverside path lined with a collection of Jizō

statues, the small stone effigies of the Buddhist protector of travellers and

children. It’s said that if you try to count the statues there and again on the

way back, you’ll end up with a different number, hence the nickname ‘Bake-

jizō’ (ghost Jizō). To find it, follow the Daiya-gawa west for about 1km from

the Shin-kyō bridge, crossing another bridge near Jyoko-ji temple en route.

Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光東照宮宝物館; %288-54-2558;

www.toshogu.jp/shisetsu/houmotsu; adult/child ¥1000/400; h8am-5pm, to 4pm Nov-Mar) Opened in 2015 for the 400th anniversary of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s death, this

modern building behind Rinnō-ji contains artefacts relating to the shogun,

including ceremonial armour, weapons and letters.

Shin-kyō

HISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神橋; adult/child ¥300/100; h8am-4.15pm) This much-photographed red footbridge over the Daiya-gawa is located at

the sacred spot where Shōdō Shōnin is said to have been carried across the

Daiya-gawa on the backs of two giant serpents. It’s a 1907 reconstruction;

the 17th-century original was washed away by floods.

The entrance fee allows you to walk upon it but not cross it.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

KANIYU ONSEN

In the midst of the mountainous Okukino region of ‘secret onsen’, you’ll find Kaniyu Onsen

(加仁湯; %0288-96-0311; www.naf.co.jp/kaniyu; 871 Kawamata; r per person with 2 meals

from ¥12,360, onsen day visitor ¥800; hday visitors 9am-3pm), a rustic ryokan with milky

sulphuric waters in its multiple outdoor baths, a few of which are mixed bathing. To get here

from Nikkō, take the Tōbu line to Shimo-imachi, change to a Kinugawa Onsen–bound train,

then board the bus to Meoto-buchi (¥1540, 1½ hours, four daily). From here, it’s a gentle 1½-

hour hike up a beautiful river valley past several waterfalls.

You’ll need to leave Nikkō before 9am to make it to Kaniyu and back in a day, and you’ll

still only get about one hour for the onsen. If you’d prefer to take it at a more leisurely pace,

plan an overnight stay. Either way, check the latest transport details with one of Nikkō’s tourist

offices before setting off.

T Tours

Tochigi Volunteer Interpreters & Guides Association

TOURS

( MAP ; nikkotviga@hotmail.co.jp) F

Offers free guided tours of Tōshō-gū between November and March (you

pay the guide’s entry fee and transport costs, as well as your own). Contact

by email two weeks in advance.

z Festivals & Events

Tōshō-gū Grand Festival

CULTURAL

(h17 & 18 May)

Nikkō’s most important annual festival features horseback archery on the

first day and a 1000-strong costumed re-enactment of the delivery of

Ieyasu’s remains to Nikkō on the second.

There’s a slightly scaled-down version of this festival (h16 & 17 Oct) in

October.

4 Sleeping

Nikkorisou Backpackers

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; にっこり荘バックパッカーズ; %080-9449-1545;

www.nikkorisou.com; 1107 Kamihatsu-ishi-machi; dm/d with shared bathroom from ¥3000/7000; aW)

The closest hostel to Tōshō-gū offers a riverside location and a relaxed,

friendly vibe. As it’s run single-handedly by the English-speaking Hiro,

guests need to be elsewhere between 10am and 4pm, but at any other hour

the roomy kitchen, huge deck and cosy common area are havens for hanging

out. Well-maintained hybrid mountain bikes are available for rent (¥500).

If checking in or moving on between 10am and 4pm, there are lockers by

the front door to store your bags.

Nikkō Guesthouse Sumica

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光ゲストハウス 巣み家; %090-1838-7873; www.nikko-

guesthouse.com; 5-12 Aioi-chō; dm/r per person without bathroom from ¥3000/8000; nW)

Run by a lovely, clued-up couple, this tiny guesthouse is set in an artfully

renovated wooden house just steps from both train stations. The pair of

dorms (male and female) are a bit cramped, but they’re tidy, as are the two

private tatami-mat doubles; all with fan only and shared bathrooms. There’s

an 11pm curfew.

Rindō-no-Ie

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; りんどうの家; %53-0131; 1462 Tokorono; r per person without bathroom from ¥3500; naiW)

Run by a lovely older couple, this small but well-maintained minshuku

(guesthouse) offers spacious tatami rooms, generous meals and a pick-up

service. Breakfast/dinner is ¥700. It’s across the river, a 15-minute walk

northwest of the train station.

Nikkō Park Lodge

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光パークロッジ; %0288-53-1201; www.nikkoparklodge.com;

2828-5 Tokorono; dm/d from ¥2800/8980; naiW)

In the wooded hills north of town, this guesthouse has sunny, Western-style

rooms, a spacious dorm, a homely lounge with log fire and clued-up,

English-speaking staff. There’s an afternoon pick-up service, otherwise it’s

around ¥700 by taxi from the station.

Annex Turtle Hotori-An

INN

¥¥

(アネックスーほとり庵; %0288-53-3663; www.turtle-nikko.com; 8-28 Takumi-chō; s/tw

from ¥6700/13,800; naiW)

Only steps away from the trailhead to Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss, this tidy,

comfortable inn offers Japanese- and Western-style rooms, plus river views

from the house onsen. It’s a lovely spot in a quiet neighbourhood that gives

way to open space.

Stay Nikkō Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-25-5303; www.staynikko.com; 2-360-13 Inarimachi; r from ¥8200,

house from ¥26,000; aW)

A Thai and Japanese couple run this comfortable guesthouse in a quiet spot

close to the river, with just four rooms (tatami and Western-style) offering

garden or river views and sharing bathroom facilities. Japanese-style

breakfast costs ¥800, and there’s a comfy communal lounge and garden

seating. It’s a 750m walk from the stations.

There’s also a private house in the garden sleeping four to six people.

Turtle Inn Nikkō

INN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; タートル・イン・日光; %0288-53-3168; www.turtle-nikko.com; 2-

16 Takumi-chō; s/tw without bathroom from ¥4950/9600, with bathroom from ¥6000/10,300; naW)

A long-time favourite with spacious rooms, both Japanese and Western style,

the Turtle Inn is a cosy, well-run choice in a quiet neighbourhood close to

the river. It’s a 10-minute walk west from Shōyō-en, Nikko’s iconic red

bridge, on the street closest to the river.

Nikkō Station Classic Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光ステーションホテルクラシック; %0288-53-1000;

www.nikko-stationhotel.jp; 31 Aioi-chō; s/tw incl breakfast from ¥11,500/20,000; naiW) Opposite the JR station, this smart midrange hotel has comfortable Westernstyle rooms and beautiful onsen facilities that include outdoor baths. Day-

use visitors can enjoy a soak for ¥700.

Nikkō Kanaya Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光金谷ホテル; %0288-54-0001; www.kanayahotel.co.jp; 1300

Kamihatsu-ishimachi; tw from ¥17,820; paiW)

This grand hotel from 1893 has hosted such notables as Albert Einstein,

Helen Keller and King George V in its charming if slightly worn environs.

The newer wing has Japanese-style rooms with excellent vistas, spacious

quarters and private bathrooms; the cheaper rooms in the main building are

Western style and have an appealing old-fashioned ambience.

The lobby bar is deliciously dark and particularly amenable to whisky

drinkers. Rates rise steeply in high season.

5 Eating

A local speciality is yuba (the skin that forms when making tofu) cut into

strips; it’s a staple of shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine). You’ll see it

all over town, in everything from noodles (yuba soba) to fried bean buns

(age yuba manjū).

Hongū Cafe

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本宮カフェ; %0288-54-1669; www.hongucafe.com; 2384 Sannai; espresso ¥400, dessert sets from ¥650; h10am-5pm, closed Thu)

Refresh with a cup of espresso, or a traditional Japanese dessert set of

matcha and yomogi-mochi (mugwort dumplings topped with sweet azuki-

bean paste) – it tastes better than it sounds. Set in a refurbished historic

house near the entrance of the national park, this cafe is a great place to take

a breather après-shrine.

Hippari Dako

YAKITORI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ひっぱり凧; %0288-53-2933; 1011 Kamihatsu-ishimachi; meals ¥550-900; h11am-8pm; v)

Refuel at this no-frills Nikkō staple that’s been serving foreign travellers for

almost three decades. Basic comfort food includes big bowls of curry udon,

ramen, yaki-udon (fried noodles) and fried chicken.

Meguri

VEGAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 自然茶寮 廻; %0288-25-3122; 909 Nakahatsuishi-machi; lunch ¥1400; h11.30am-6pm, closed Thu; v)

Enjoy lovingly prepared Japanese vegan meals in this antique former art

shop that also boasts a grand, faded ceiling fresco. Arrive as soon as it opens

if you want to eat lunch – it’s a popular place and once it’s run out of food,

it’s sweets and drinks only. Look for the retro sign that says ‘Oriental Fine

Art & Curios’.

Nagomi-chaya

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 和み茶屋; %0288-54-3770; 1016 Kamihatsu-ishi; set meals from ¥1620; h11.30am-4pm, closed Wed)

The beautifully prepared kaiseki-style lunches are a great deal at this

sophisticated arts-and-crafts-style cafe near the top of Nikkō’s main drag,

but be prepared to wait in line. Last order for lunch is 2.30pm.

o Gyōshintei

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 尭心亭; %0288-53-3751; www.meiji-yakata.com/gyoushin; 2339-1 Sannai;

sets ¥3800/5500; h11am-7pm, closed Thu; v)

Splash out on deluxe spreads of vegetarian shōjin-ryōri, featuring local bean

curd and vegetables served in delectable ways, or the kaiseki courses that

include fish. The elegant tatami dining room overlooks a bonsai-filled

garden, which is part of the Meji-no-Yakata compound of chic restaurants

close to the World Heritage Site.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Murmur Beer Stand

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; 1013 Kamihatsu-ishimachi; hnoon-10pm Fri-Tue)

Stave off shrine fatigue with a rich ‘cinnamon brown’ or a spicy ‘ginger pale

ale’ brewed at this one-person operation along the main drag southeast of the

World Heritage area.

Nikkō Coffee

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日光珈琲; www.nikko-coffee.com; 3-13 Honchō; coffee from ¥550; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed 1st & 3rd Tue of every month)

A century-old rice shop has been reinvented as this retro-chic cafe with a

garden, where house-roasted coffee is served alongside pastries and snacks

like savoury galettes (buckwheat pancakes) and pork curry with rice (meals

from ¥1650). Expect queues.

Yuzawaya

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 湯沢屋; www.yuzawaya.jp; 946 Kamihatsu-ishimachi; tea sets from ¥540; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

In business since 1804, this teahouse specialises in manjū (bean-jam buns)

and other traditional sweets; look for the green-and-white banners.

8 Information

Information desk (%0288-54-0864; Tōbu Nikkō Station; h8.30am-5pm) Pick up a town

map and get help in English to find buses, restaurants and hotels.

Kyōdo Center Tourist Information Office (%0288-54-2496; www.nikko-jp.org; 591

Gokomachi; h9am-5pm; W) Nikkō’s main, flashy tourist information office, with

English speakers (guaranteed between 10am and 2pm) and maps for

sightseeing and hiking.

8 Getting There & Away

Nikkō is best reached from Tokyo via the Tōbu Nikkō line from Asakusa

Station. You can usually get last-minute seats on the hourly reserved tokkyū

(limited-express) trains (¥2800, 1¾ hours). Kaisoku (rapid) trains (¥1360,

2½ hours, hourly from 6.20am to 5.30pm) require no reservation, but you

may have to change at Shimo-imaichi. Be sure to ride in the last two cars to

reach Nikkō (some cars may separate at an intermediate stop).

JR Pass holders can take the Tohoku shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo

to Utsunomiya (¥4930, 50 minutes) and change there for an ordinary train to

Nikkō (¥760, 45 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Both JR Nikkō Station (designed by Frank Lloyd Wright) and the nearby

Tōbu Nikkō Station lie southeast of the shrine area within a block of Nikkō’s

main road (Rte 119, the old Nikkō-kaidō). From the station, follow this road

uphill for 20 minutes to reach the shrine area, past restaurants, souvenir

shops and the main tourist information centre, or take a bus to the Shin-kyō

bus stop (¥200). Bus stops are announced in English. Buses leave from both

JR and Tōbu Nikkō Station; buses bound for both Chūzen-ji Onsen and

Yumoto Onsen stop at Shin-kyō and other stops around the World Heritage

Sites.

Chūzen-ji Onsen 中禅寺温泉

%0288

Accessed by a steep mountain road from Nikkō, Chūzen-ji Onsen offers

natural seclusion, scenic waterfalls and striking views of Nantai-san from

Chūzen-ji’s lake, Chūzenji-ko. The lake itself is 161m deep and a fabulous

shade of blue in good weather, topped by the usual flotilla of sightseeing

boats. October and November, with autumn colours ablaze, are when

Chūzen-ji is considered prettiest; it’s also lovely under a blanket of snow.

TŌBU NIKKŌ BUS FREE PASS

If you’ve already got your rail ticket, two-day bus-only passes allow unlimited rides between

Nikkō and Chūzen-ji Onsen (adult/child ¥2000/1000) or Yumoto Onsen (adult/child

¥3000/1500), including the World Heritage Site area. The Sekai-isan-meguri (World Heritage

Bus Pass; adult/child ¥500/250) covers the area between the stations and the shrine precincts.

Buy these at Tōbu Nikkō Station.

1 Sights & Activities

Kegon-no-taki

WATERFALL

(華厳ノ滝, Kegon Falls; 2479-2 Chūgūshi; adult/child ¥550/330; h7.30am-6pm May-Sep, 8am-

5pm Oct-Apr)

The big-ticket attraction of Chūzen-ji is this billowing, 97m-high waterfall.

Take the 1930s elevator down to a platform to observe the full force of the

plunging water, or admire it from up high on the viewing platform.

Futarasan-jinja

SHRINE

(二荒山神社; 2484 Chūgūshi; h8am-4.30pm) F

This shrine complements those at Tōshō-gū in Nikkō as part of the same

Unesco World Heritage site, and is the starting point for pilgrimages up

Nantai-san. The shrine is about 1km south along the lakeshore from the

Chūzen-ji bus terminal.

Italian Embassy Villa Memorial Park

PARK

(イタリアン大使館別荘記念公園; %0288-55-0388; 2482 Chūgūshi; h9am-4pm Apr-Jun

& Sep-Nov, to 5pm Jul-Aug) F

The former summer residence of Italy’s ambassadors (from 1928 to 1997)

has a pleasant sun terrace with excellent views across Chūzen-ji lake.

Walking here from the bus station takes around 25 minutes.

Nearby is the similar British Embassy Memorial Park, originally the

lakeside residence of a British diplomat. Here you can have tea and scones.

Chūzen-ji Tachiki-kannon

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(中禅寺立木観音; 2578 Chūgūshi; adult/child ¥500/200; h8am-3.30pm Dec-Feb, to 4pm Mar

& Nov, to 5pm Apr-Oct)

This eponymous temple, located on the lake’s eastern shore, was founded in

the 8th century and houses a 6m-tall Kannon statue from that time.

Lake Chuzenji Boat House

CRUISE

(www.chuzenjiko-cruise.com; 1hr lake cruise ¥1250; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov)

Built in 1947, this rambling lakeside boat house contains a collection of

antique dinghies and has a tearoom with a sun deck providing fine lake

views. From here you can embark on various lake cruises. The Tobu

Sightseeing Bus stops here en route to Yumoto Onsen.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a couple of restaurants scattered around Chūzen-ji lake, but most

are clustered at the eastern corner.

KAI Nikko

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(界日光; %050-3786-0099; www.kai-nikko.jp; 1661 Chūgūshi; r per person incl 2 meals ¥30,000;

paW)

Hoshino Resorts have given this 33-room mega-ryokan some contemporary

sparkle, with spacious tatami rooms furnished with Western-style beds and

lovely lake views, enormous onsen and delicious meals. Guests can also take

part in kumiko woodcraft workshops and enjoy a nightly Nikko Geta folk-

dance show. English spoken.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run from Tōbu Nikkō Station to Chūzen-ji Onsen (¥1150, 45

minutes), before carrying on to Yumoto Onsen (¥860, 30 minutes). Consider

purchasing the economical Tōbu Nikkō Bus Free Pass, available at Tōbu

Nikkō Station.

Yumoto Onsen 湯元温泉

%0288 / POP 298

Yumoto Onsen (湯元温泉) is a sleepy hot-springs village on the shore of

Lake Yuno-ko, high up in the mountains above Nikkō. It’s quieter than

nearby Chūzen-ji Onsen and offers easy access to several hiking trails.

2 Activities

o Senjōgahara Shizen-kenkyu-rō

HIKING

(戦場ヶ原自然研究路, Senjōgahara Plain Nature Trail)

Buses from Nikkō stop at Ryūzu-notaki (竜頭ノ滝), a lovely waterfall

overlooked by a teahouse that marks the trailhead. The hike follows the Yu-

gawa across the picturesque marshland of Senjōgahara (mainly on wooden

plank paths), passing the 75m-high falls of Yu-daki (湯滝) to the lake

Yuno-ko (湯の湖), then around the lake to Yumoto Onsen.

It’s less strenuous to do the hike in reverse (carrying on further to Chūzen-

Ji Onsen if you wish), as you’ll be walking downhill.

Yumoto Anyo-no-yu

ONSEN

(h9am-8pm) F

Just behind the Yumoto Onsen bus stop is this large communal footbath

under a shelter, which is free to use; blissful if you’ve just tackled the

Senjōgahara Shizen-kenkyu-rō hike on a damp day.

Onsen-ji

ONSEN

(温泉時; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-4pm)

Towards the back of Yumoto Onsen, this temple has a humble bathhouse

(with extremely hot water) and a tatami lounge for resting weary muscles.

Look for a row of stone lanterns near the final village bus stop that leads to

the temple.

4 Sleeping & Eating

If you stay in Yumoto Onsen, you’re likely to take your meals at your

accommodation, as there isn’t much else around.

Yu-no-Mori

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(ゆの森; %0288-62-2800; www.okunikko-yunomori.com; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥25,000; iW)

The 12 elegant rooms (Western-style on the 1st floor, Japanese-style on the

2nd) at this luxurious ryokan are decorated in natural tones, and each has a

private wooden bath on a decked verandah. Free bicycle hire available.

Yumoto Rest House

JAPANESE

¥

(dishes around ¥1000; h9am-4pm)

Perched on the lakeside, this busy restaurant is of the picture-menu and

vending-machine variety – choose your meal, pay at the machine, and then

give your ticket to the servers and wait. Stake out a table in the sunny dining

room and contemplate renting a rowing boat after lunch (¥1000 for 40

minutes).

8 Getting There & Away

There are regular buses between Yumoto Onsen and Nikkō (¥1700, one hour

20 minutes), which also stop at Chūzen-ji Onsen (¥860, 30 minutes).

You can also get to Yumoto Onsen from Chūzen-ji Onsen by a rewarding

three-hour hike on the Senjōgahara Shizen-kenkyu-rō.

Narita 成田

%0476 / POP 131,190

The home of Japan’s main international airport, Narita (成田) is a

surprisingly pleasant place to visit, with an esteemed temple, terrific places

to eat and plenty of accommodation – perfect if you have an early-morning

flight or would prefer to ease yourself into Japan after your arrival.

1 Sights

Narita-san Shinshōji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(成田山新勝寺; www.naritasan.or.jp; 1 Narita; h24hr) F

The landscaped grounds of this venerable temple, founded in 940, are among

the largest in Japan, and are laced with walking paths. The temple buildings

are splendid, particularly the Niomon entrance gate and three-storied

pagoda.

Omote-sandō

STREET

(表参道)

Local ordinances have preserved the traditional architectural look of Narita’s

main shopping drag as it winds its way towards the Narita-san Shinshōji.

Along the sinuous path you’ll find souvenir, craft and medicinal shops,

boutiques and restaurants.

LAYOVER IN NARITA?

Got a few hours to spare at Narita International Airport? Give duty-free the heave-ho and

instead hop on a train to the charming town of Narita, 10 minutes away by rail. Omote-sandō, a

historic commercial street, starts from just outside Narita and Keisei Narita Stations, winding

past souvenir and craft shops on its way to Narita-san Shinshōji, a grand temple complex in

expansive gardens. Here you can walk up an appetite for one last seafood feast at the affordable

and highly regarded Edoko Sushi, back up Omote-sandō. Then it’s time to grab any last-minute

gifts on your way back to Narita Station, perhaps stopping off for a final farewell drink at the

appropriately named Jet Lag Club, crammed full of aviation memorabilia donated by the

regulars – almost entirely pilots and aircrew. Sayonara, Tokyo!

z Festivals & Events

Narita Gion Matsuri

CULTURAL

(hJul)

Going strong for over 300 years, the town’s major festival features a parade

of mikoshi (portable shrines) and large floats, embarking from Narita-san

Shinshōji and drawing crowds of around 450,000. It’s held on the Friday to

Sunday closest to 8 July.

4 Sleeping

Ninehours Narita Airport

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

(%0476-33-5109; http://ninehours.co.jp; Narita International Airport Terminal 2; capsules excl/incl breakfast from ¥5900/6440; aW)

You can hardly get closer to the airport than this brilliant white, futuristic-

styled capsule hotel, which is in the basement car park of Terminal 2. It

books out early.

Wakamatsu Honten

RYOKAN

¥¥

(若松本店; %0476-24-1136; www.wakamatsuhonten.jp; 355 Honchō; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥15,120; aW)

Right smack across from the Narita-san complex, this ryokan is a great

choice for a last night preflight. Though aspects of its public spaces could

use updating, the spacious tatami rooms (try to book a temple-view room),

communal baths and traditional meals are lovely. Staff don’t speak much

English, but there’s a fair amount of explanatory material provided to guests.

5 Eating & Drinking

Kawatoyo Honten

JAPANESE

¥¥

(川豊本店; %0476-22-2711; www.unagi-kawatoyo.com; 386 Naka-machi; meals from ¥2800;

h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Sample unagi (freshwater eel) here, grilled on hot coals and served in

lacquered boxes over rice. Eel numbers have plunged in recent years, and the

species is endangered, but if you are keen to sample this Narita speciality,

pay first, take a ticket and wait to be shown to your table. Chefs expertly

carve up live eels in front, a testament to the restaurant’s freshness; the

squeamish can admire the period interiors instead.

Edoko Sushi

JAPANESE

¥¥

(江戸ッ子寿司; %0476-22-0530; 536-10 Hanazakichō; set meals from ¥1200; h11.30am-

2.30pm & 5-10pm)

Near the train station end of Omote-sandō is this locally-regarded and

reasonably priced sushi joint with an English-speaking chef.

Jet Lag Club

BAR

(%0476-22-0280; 508 Kamichō; h4pm-2am)

Run by a former flight attendant and usually packed with a mix of flight

crew and locals, this bar is a lively spot to get your bearings – or lose them.

Plane spotters will love the array of aviation memorabilia – including dozens

of pilot caps above the bar – donated by drinkers over the years.

8 Information

Narita Tourist Information Center (%0476-24-3198; 839 Hanazaki-chō; h8.30am-

5.15pm) Pick up a map at the TIC just outside the eastern exit of JR Narita

Station.

8 Getting There & Away

From Narita International Airport you can take the private Keisei line (¥260,

10 minutes) or JR (¥200/240 from Terminal 2/1, 10 minutes); Keisei-line

trains are more frequent. From Tokyo, the easiest way to get to Narita is via

the Keisei line from Keisei Ueno Station (¥840, 71 minutes). Note that most

JR Narita Express trains do not stop at Narita.

OGASAWARA ARCHIPELAGO 小笠原 諸島

About 1000km south of Ginza, but still within Tokyo Prefecture, the Unesco

World Heritage–listed Ogasawara Archipelago (小笠原諸島; Ogasawara-

shotō) is a nature-lover’s paradise, with pristine beaches surrounded by

tropical waters and coral reefs. Snorkelling, whale-watching, swimming with

dolphins and hiking are all on the bill.

Just as fascinating as its natural attractions is the human history. Mapped

by the Japanese in the 16th century, the islands’ earliest inhabitants were a

motley crew of Europeans and Pacific Islanders who set up provisioning

stations for ships working the Japan whaling grounds in 1830. Around 100

descendants of these settlers, known as obeikei, still live on the islands,

accounting for the occasional Western name and face. US Commodore

Matthew Perry stopped here en route to Japan proper in 1853, when the

archipelago was known as the Bonin Islands – it gained the name Ogasawara

in 1875 when the Meiji government claimed the territory.

The only way to get here is by a 24-hour ferry ride from Tokyo. The ferry

docks at Chichi-jima, the main island of the 30-strong group. A smaller ferry

connects Chichi-jima to Haha-jima, the only other inhabited island.

Though it takes planning and a time commitment to get here, both Chichi-

jima (Father Island) and Haha-jima (Mother Island) see a regular stream of

visitors, so be sure to book accommodation in advance.

Note that camping is not permitted on either island.

Chichi-jima 父島

%04998 / POP 2061

Gorgeous, unspoilt Chichi-jima (父島) has plenty of accommodation,

restaurants, and even a bit of tame nightlife. But the real attractions are the

excellent beaches, outdoor activities and access to the Ogasawara’s amazing

natural heritage.

2 Activities

The two best beaches for snorkelling are on the north side of the island, a

short walk over the hill from the village. Miya-no-hama (宮之浜) has

decent coral and is sheltered, making it suitable for beginners. About 500m

along the coast (more easily accessed from town) is Tsuri-hama (釣浜), a

rocky beach that has better coral but is more exposed.

Good swimming beaches line the west side of the island, getting better the

further south you go. The neighbouring coves of Kopepe (コペペ海岸) and

Kominato-kaigan (小港海岸) are particularly attractive. From Kominato-

kaigan, you can walk along a trail over the hill and along the coast to the

beguiling white sand of John Beach (ジョンビーチ), but note that it’s a

two-hour walk in each direction and there is no drinking water – bring at

least 3L per person.

T Tours

Pelan Sea Kayak Club

KAYAKING

(%04998-2-3386; www.pelan.jp; full-day tours ¥9000, snorkelling gear rental ¥500)

Run by Ryō-san from Pelan Village, this club offers tours to some of the

island’s more enchanting spots. Fees include rental of kayaking gear and

meals cooked Pelan-style, on a wood-burning camp stove. Catching and

grilling your own fish is optional.

Pink Dolphin

TOURS

(%080-8849-7307; www.chichijimapinkdolphin.jp; half-/full-day tours ¥6000/11,000) Stanley Minami is the English-speaking skipper of the Pink Dolphin, a glass-bottom boat, offering dolphin- and whale-watching tours, and swimming

with dolphins when sea conditions allow. Also runs trips to Minami-jima, an

uninhabited island with a magical secret beach called Ōgi-ike (扇池). Tours

must be booked in advance, by phone only.

Rao Adventure Tours

TOUR

(%04998-2-2081; jungle tours per half day ¥5000, surf school per day ¥15,000)

Rao Adventure Tours at Ōgiura Beach is a surf shop that organises jungle

tours and a surf school.

4 Sleeping

There are a few options for dining on the island, although it’s wise to book

meals at your accommodation where possible, or to self-cater.

o Pelan Village

CABIN

¥

(%04998-2-3386; www.pelan.jp; r per person with shared bathroom from ¥5000; W) F

A Never-Never Land of rustic wooden cabins, walkways and ladders

perched on a leafy mountainside, Pelan Village offers an ecoretreat designed

for self-caterers. Free pick-up and drop-off to the ferry are provided. Also

offers massage, yoga and sea kayak tours.

It’s the closest you’ll get to camping on the island, which is banned to

protect the precious ecology. Pelon Village is committed to sustainable

living, and conventional soaps and detergents are banned because water run-

off goes directly to the crops.

Ogasawara Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(小笠原ユースホステル; %04998-2-2692; www.oyh.jp; dm from ¥3800; iW)

Clean, well-run hostel with small bunk-bed dorms, about 400m southwest of

the pier; book early during summer.

Tetsuya Healing Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(てつ家; %04998-2-7725; www.tetuyabonin.com; r per person incl breakfast from ¥9,500; naiW) Offers thoughtfully designed rooms, open-air baths and multicourse meals

that make innovative use of local ingredients. It’s a fiveminute walk from

Kominato-kaigan Beach.

Rockwells

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(ロックウェルズ; %04998-2-3838; www.rockwells.co.jp/ogasawara; s/d with shared bathroom

incl half-board from ¥8200/14,400; naW)

A young and friendly English-speaking family run this simple guesthouse

and bar right on Ōgiura Beach. The meals are delicious.

5 Eating & Drinking

Cafe Hale

JAPANESE

¥

(%04998-2-2373; www.papasds.com; meals ¥1000; h9am-6pm Fri-Tue; W)

Hale’s deck, facing Chichi-jima’s port, is a top spot to enjoy a delicious

lunch of sashimi on a bowl of rice, or a slice of lemon cheesecake. They also

run a diving school from the same building, and an upmarket guesthouse

(single/double with breakfast ¥14,580/28,080) with three smartly furnished

en-suite rooms.

Bonina

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

(ニーナ; %04998-2-3027; mains from ¥1000; h11.30am-1.30pm & 6pm-midnight)

Friendly restaurant and bar serving simple fare of rice dishes, pizza and

tacos. Open for lunch on days when the Tokyo ferry is in town. It’s in front

of Futami Bay, steps from the port.

USK Coffee

CAFE

(%04998-2-2338; www.uskcoffee.com; Kita-fukurozawa; h1-5pm Thu & Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun) Out of an Airstream caravan on the road to Kominato-kaigan, Englishspeaking Ku and Yusuke serve thirst-quenching caffeinated drinks, made

from beans grown on their adjacent plot, along with homemade cookies and

cakes. A top spot to relax and refresh.

Yankee Town

BAR

(ヤンキータウン; %080-2567-7168, 04998-2-3042; h8pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

Follow the coastal road east of the main pier towards Okumura for around

10 minutes to find this convivial driftwood bar run by island-born, English-

speaking Rance Ohira. It’s a great place to chill with a beer or cocktail.

There’s occasional live music, too, making it the town’s liveliest bar.

8 Information

Find the Chichi-jima Tourism Association (父島観光協会; %04998-2-2587;

h8am-noon & 1.30-5pm) in the B-Ship building about 250m west of the pier, near

the post office (English spoken). Ask for the helpful Guide Map of Chichi-

jima. Right on the beach past the village office, the Ogasawara Visitor

Center (小笠原ビジターセンター; %04998-2-3001;

www.ogasawaramura.com/visitorcenter; Ogasawara Village; h8.30am-5pm) has displays in English about the local ecosystem and history.

8 Getting There & Around

Ogasawara Kaiun (小笠原海運; %03-3451-5171; www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english) runs the Ogasawara-maru, which sails at least once a week between Tokyo’s

Takeshiba Pier (10 minutes’ walk from Hamamatsu-chō Station) and Chichi-

jima (2nd class from ¥26,990 one way, 24 hours); check the website for the

exact departure schedule and current prices.

Rental scooters (from around ¥2000 per day) are the best way to get

around as buses are infrequent, plus you’ll be able to explore more of the

island this way. You can rent them from Ogasawara Kanko (小笠原観光;

%04998-2-3311; www.ogasawarakanko.com; Ogasawara Village; h8am-6pm) if you have an international driving licence with the motorcycle permit included; they also

have battery-assisted bicycles that don’t require a license.

Haha-jima 母島

%04998 / POP 465

Around 50km south of Chichi-jima is the much less developed Haha-jima

(母島). Outside the summer season, you may find yourself staring out over

cerulean waters or spotting rare birds all by your lonesome.

2 Activities

Before leaving the only village on the island, scoot over to the green turtle

sanctuary on the south side of the harbour – around 135 turtles are hatched

here a year and released back into the sea.

From the village, a four-hour hike loops through rare indigenous flora to

Mt Chibusa (乳房山; 463m), the highest peak on the island.

There are good snorkelling spots at the far north of the island at Kita

Minato (北港湊).

Minami-zaki

HIKING

(南崎)

A road runs south from the village to the start of the Minami-zaki Yūhodō

(南崎遊歩道), a hiking course that continues to Minami-zaki (literally

‘southern point’). The route is jungly and at times slippery. Minami-zaki

itself has a rocky, coral-strewn beach with ripping views of smaller islands

to the south. Though tempting, the waters beyond the cove can whisk

swimmers away.

Along the way you’ll find Hōraine-kaigan (蓬莢根海岸), a narrow beach

with a decent offshore coral garden, and Wai Beach (ワイビーチ), with a

drop-off that sometimes attracts eagle rays. Above Minami-zaki you’ll find

Kofuji (小富士), an 86m-high peak with fantastic views in all directions.

T Tours

Club Noah

DIVING

(クラブノア母島; %04998-3-2442; www.hahajimamarine.wixsite.com/drhahajima; dive from

¥12,000, PADI course ¥100,000, eco-tours from ¥5200; hcafe 9am-5pm)

Dive shop Club Noah offers fun dives and open-water PADI courses, and

runs jungle-hiking and marine-life eco-tours. It’s in a white building next to

the turtle sanctuary; inside there’s a cafe serving light meals. Call ahead for

reservations and current pricing.

4 Sleeping & Eating

It’s best to book meals at your accommodation, as dining options on the

island are limited.

Anna Beach Haha-jima Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(アンナビーチ母島ユースホステル; %04998-3-2468; dm members/nonmembers incl 2

meals ¥5780/6380; naW)

A friendly family runs this tidy, cheery youth hostel in a bright-yellow

Western-style house overlooking the fishing port.

Island Resort Nanpū

HOTEL

¥¥

(民宿 ナンプー; %0120-188-887; www.hahajima-nanpu.com/english; per person incl 2 meals from ¥13,500; naiW)

Cosy, well-run lodge with glossy wood-panelled rooms, friendly owners and

good food at its restaurant Austro (11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm), also

open to nonguests.

8 Information

Haha-jima Tourist Association (母島観光協会; %04998-3-2300;

www.hahajima.com/en; Okikou Pier; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) Located in the passenger

waiting room at the pier and only open on ferry days.

8 Getting There & Around

The Hahajima-maru sails five times a week between Chichi-jima and Haha-

jima (¥4520, two hours). Other operators run day cruises from Chichi-jima

to Haha-jima.

Scooters (from ¥3000 per day) are the best way to get around the island.

They can be rented from most lodgings.

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Nagoya & Around

Nagoya

Inuyama

Gifu

Gujō-Hachiman

Kiso Valley Nakasendō

Magome

Tsumago

Kiso

Narai

Hida Region

Takayama

Hida-Furukawa

Okuhida Onsen-gō

Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama

Kanazawa & the Hokuriku Coast

Kanazawa

Noto Peninsula

Kaga Onsen

Fukui

Toyama

Takaoka

The Northern Japan Alps

Matsumoto

Azumino

Shirahone Onsen

Kamikōchi

Hakuba

Nagano & Around

Nagano

Togakushi

Obuse

Nozawa Onsen

Myōkō Kōgen

Shiga Kōgen

Bessho Onsen

Karuizawa

Gunma Prefecture

Takasaki

Minakami Onsen-kyo

Kusatsu Onsen

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Why Go?

Central Honshū (本州中部; Honshū Chūbu) is Japan’s heartland, stretching out

between the sprawling metropolises of Greater Tokyo and Kansai. The

awesome Japan Alps rise sharply near the border of Gifu and Nagano

Prefectures before rolling north to the dramatic Sea of Japan coast.

World-class skiing, hiking and onsen can be found in the region’s stunning

alpine uplands. All but one of Japan’s 30 highest peaks (Mt Fuji) are here.

Kanazawa oozes culture: temples and tearooms that served lords and housed

geisha are beautifully preserved. Takayama’s quaint riverside streetscapes win

admirers from Japan and abroad. Matsumoto’s magnificent castle and alpine

backdrop ensure its popularity.

Nagoya, Japan’s dynamic and under-loved fourth-largest city, is the gateway

to Central Honshū, packing its share of urban delights, plus excellent transport

connections to just about everywhere.

When to Go

Jan–Mar Nagano’s slopes serve perfect snow days for a fraction of the price

of other countries.

Sep–Nov The mountain onsen of Kamikōchi and Hida offer front-row seats for

autumn’s brilliant show.

Apr & May Come for cherry blossoms in Kanazawa’s Kenroku-en and the

great Takayama Matsuri.

Best Places to Eat

A Kaiseki Tsuruko

A Kyōya

A Shin-Miyoshi

A Sobadokoro Daimon

A Atsuta Hōraiken Honten

Best Places to Stay

A Yarimikan

A Earthworks Guesthouse & Gallery

A Kamikōchi Nishi-itoya Sansō

A Lamp no Yado

A Kayōtei

Central Honshū Highlights

1 Nakasendō Walking this ancient post road between Tsumago and

Magome.

2 Ainokura Sleeping in a thatch-roofed house in this World Heritage–

listed village.

3 Asa-ichi Haggling with guffawing elderly vendors at the Noto

Peninsula’s morning market in Wajima.

4 Matsumoto-jō Climbing the castle for magical mountain vistas.

5 Zenkō-ji Seeking enlightenment at this Buddhist temple in Nagano.

6 Kamikōchi Hiking some of Japan’s most breathtaking scenery.

7 Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route Getting around on cable cars and

funiculars.

8 Takaragawa Onsen Soaking in the mineral-rich water at this Minakami

onsen.

9 Haruna Jinja Strolling through the forested river gorge to this ancient

religious site in Gunma.

a Zuiryū-ji Marvelling at Buddhist architectural styles at this Takaoka

National Treasure.

b Kita-ke Playing feudal lords at this rambling, immaculately preserved

house on the Noto Peninsula.

Climate

Central Honshū’s climate varies with its landscape. The best times to visit are

generally April, May and late September to early November; temperatures are

mild and clear skies prevail. Mid-April is the best time for hanami (cherry-

blossom viewing) in the Alps. Expect heavy rains in the tsuyu (monsoon)

season, typically a few weeks in June, then sticky summers capped with

typhoons as late as October.

Road closures are commonplace in the Alps when the snow sets in from

November to March, although higher peaks might remain snowcapped as late

as June. Hiking season runs from July to September, until autumn ushers in a

brilliant display of kōy ō (turning leaves), peaking in mid-October.

4 Sleeping

Some of Japan’s finest onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring inns) are found in

the hollows of this densely forested alpine region, or along the banks of its

many rivers. In cities, modern, practical hotels offer midrange comforts. A

newish development throughout the region is more guesthouses, which often

offer the best value.

8 Getting There & Around

AIR

Central Japan International Airport, outside Nagoya, is an excellent gateway to

the region with a variety of global connections. Komatsu and Toyama airports

to the north service domestic and a handful of intra-Asia routes, while Shinshū

Matsumoto Airport has daily flights to Fukuoka, Osaka and Sapporo.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Renting a car is well suited for trips to the Noto Peninsula, the Japan Alps and

for those wanting to get up high and off the beaten track. Be prepared for slow,

steep and winding roads that can be treacherous at times and are not for the

faint-hearted; plan your explorations carefully.

TRAIN

Rail access to this region is surprisingly good, given its often mountainous

terrain.

Nagoya is a major rail hub on the Tōkaidō shinkansen (bullet train) line

between Tokyo and Osaka.

Bullet trains also open up the nation’s alpine interior with quick and easy

access to the peaks from Tokyo. The Joetsu shinkansen connects runs to

Niigata; the Hokuriku shinkansen to Kanazawa by way of Nagano and

Toyama.

The JR Hokuriku line follows the Sea of Japan coast, linking Fukui,

Kanazawa and Toyama, with connections to Kyoto and Osaka.

The north–south JR Takayama and Chūō lines have hubs in Takayama,

Matsumoto and Nagano.

NAGOYA & AROUND

Understated and under-appreciated Nagoya is the jumping-off point for trips to

the mountains and the sights of surrounding Aichi and Gifu Prefectures.

Inuyama and the nearby area has some excellent historical attractions,

including a wonderful hilltop castle, which is the oldest wooden castle in

Japan, while Tokoname is a must for those interested in pottery and pre-

industrial manufacturing. Almost a suburb of Nagoya, but a city in its own

right, lovely Gifu is a good alternative base to Nagoya if you want to be close

to the city, but not right in the heart of the action.

Nagoya 名古屋

%052 / POP 2.29 MILLION

Affable Nagoya (名古屋), birthplace of Toyota and pachinko (a pinball-style

game) , is a manufacturing powerhouse. Although Nagoya’s GDP tops that of

many small countries, this middle child has grown accustomed to life in the

shadow of its older siblings, Tokyo and Osaka.

But its manufacturing roots don’t mean that Nagoya is a city of factories:

well-maintained parks and green spaces prevail in the inner wards. Nagoya has

cosmopolitan aspects, including some fantastic museums, significant temples

and excellent shopping, and Nagoyans are vivacious and unpretentious. It’s an

easy place to make friends.

Despite all this, the city still struggles to shake its reputation among

Japanese (many of whom have never visited) as the nation’s most boring

metropolis.

In a prime spot between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka on the Tōkaidō shinkansen

line, Nagoya is the gateway to Chūbu’s big mountain heart and a great base for

day trips.

History

As the ancestral home of Japan’s ‘three heroes’ – Oda Nobunaga (unifier of

Japan), Toyotomi Hideyoshi (second unifier of Japan) and Tokugawa Ieyasu

(founder of Japan’s last shogunate) – Nagoya’s influence is long-standing,

although it did not become a unified city until 1889.

In 1609 Tokugawa ordered the construction of Nagoya-jō, which became an

important outpost for 16 generations of the Tokugawa family (also called the

Owari clan), whose dictatorial yet prosperous reign in a time known as the Edo

period held sway until 1868, when the restoration of Emperor Meiji saw the

ultimate demise of feudal samurai culture in Japan.

Nagoya grew into a centre for commerce, industry and transport; during

WWII some 10,000 Mitsubishi Zero fighter planes were produced here.

Manufacturing prominence led to massive Allied bombing – almost 4000

citizens were killed, more than 450,000 were forced to leave their homes and

roughly one quarter of the city was destroyed. From these ashes rose the

Nagoya of today, with its subways, skyscrapers, parks and wide avenues.

Central Nagoya

1 Sights

1 International Design Centre Nagoya

D4

2 Nagoya City Science Museum

C4

3 Nagoya TV Tower

D3

4 Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts

C7

5 Nagoya-jō

C1

6 Oasis 21

D3

7 Ōsu Kannon

C4

8 Sky Promenade

A3

9 Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry & Technology

A1

4 Sleeping

10 Daiwa Roynet Nagoya Ekimae

B3

11 Dormy Inn Premium Nagoya Sakae

C3

12 Glocal Nagoya Hostel

A3

13 Hilton Nagoya

B3

14 Kyoya Ryokan

B2

15 Royal Park Canvas Nagoya

B3

5 Eating

16 Love Pacific Cafe

D4

17 Misen

D4

18 Sōhonke Ebisuya Honten

C3

19 Suzunami Honten

D3

20 Torigin Honten

D3

21 Trattoria Cesari

C4

22 Yabaton Honten

D4

23 Yamamotoya Sōhonke Honke

D3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

24 Smash Head

C4

25 Trunk Coffee & Craft Beer

D5

3 Entertainment

26 Electric Lady Land

C4

7 Shopping

27 Komehyō

C4

28 Meitetsu

A3

8 Information

29 Tachino Clinic

A3

30 Tourist Information Center (Kanayama)

C7

31 Tourist Information Center (Nagoya Station)

A3

32 Tourist Information Center (Sakae)

D3

1 Sights

Running east of Nagoya Station, Sakuradōri, Nishiki-dōri and Hirokōji-dōri are

the three main drags, intersected first by Fushimi-dōri, then by Otsu-dōri. The

majority of the mainstream action is found within this grid. Just east of Otsu-

dōri is the long, narrow Hisaya-ōdōri-kōen (aka Central Park), Nagoya’s much-

loved Eiffel-esque TV Tower and the wacky Oasis 21 complex. Following

Otsu-dōri north will get you to Nagoya-jō, while the vibrant Ōsu district,

Atsuta-jingū shrine and the bustling Kanayama Station area are to the south.

Nagoya’s subway system has English signs and services all the hot spots –

Fushimi and Sakae stations are your mainstays for shopping, accommodation

and nightlife. For the bohemian vibe around Ōsu Kannon, alight at

Kamimaezu.

o Tokugawa Art Museum

GALLERY

(徳川美術館, Tokugawa Bijutsukan; %052-935-6262; www.tokugawa-art-museum.jp/english; 1017

Tokugawa-chō, Higashi-ku; adult/child ¥1400/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; gMe-guru stop 11)

A must for anyone interested in Japanese culture and history, this museum has

a collection of over 10,000 pieces that includes National Treasures and

Important Cultural Properties once belonging to the shogun family. A priceless

12th-century scroll depicting The Tale of Genji is usually locked away, except

during a short stint in late November; the rest of the year, visitors must be

content with a video.

o Atsuta-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

(熱田神宮; %052-671-4151; www.atsutajingu.or.jp; 1-1-1 Jingū, Atsuta-ku; bJingū-mae or Jingū-nishi, exit 2)

Although the current buildings were completed in 1966, Atsuta-jingū has been

a shrine for over 1900 years and is one of the most sacred Shintō shrines in

Japan. Nestled among ancient cypresses, it houses the sacred kusanagi-no-

tsurugi (grass-cutting sword), one of three regalia that, according to legend,

were presented to the imperial family by the sun goddess Amaterasu . There’s a

changing collection of more than 4000 Tokugawa-era swords, masks and

paintings on display in the Treasure Hall (宝物館; adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-4.30pm,

closed last Wed & Thu of month).

Tokugawa-en

GARDENS

(徳川園; %052-935-8988; www.tokugawaen.aichi.jp/english; 1001 Tokugawa-chō, Higashi-ku; ¥300; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; gMe-guru, stop 10)

This delightful Japanese garden adjacent to the Tokugawa Art Museum was

donated by the Tokugawa family to Nagoya city in 1931 but destroyed by

bombing in 1945. From that time until a three-year restoration project was

completed in 2004, the site was used as a park. Water is its key element –

there’s a lake, a river, bridges and a waterfall. Each spring 2000 peonies and

irises burst into bloom, and maples ignite in the autumn.

Nagoya City Science Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 名古屋市科学館, Nagoya-shi Kagaku-kan; %052-201-4486;

www.ncsm.city.nagoya.jp; 2-17-1 Sakae, Naka-ku; adult/student ¥800/500; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; c; bFushimi, exit 5)

This hands-on museum claims the world’s largest dome-screen planetarium,

with some seriously out-of-this-world projection technology. There’s also a

tornado lab and a deep-freeze lab complete with indoor aurora. Despite

scheduled shows being kidcentric and in Japanese, the cutting-edge technology

of this impressive, centrally located facility is worth experiencing.

Nagoya-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 名古屋城; %052-231-1700; www.nagoyajo.city.nagoya.jp; 1-1 Honmaru;

adult/child ¥500/free; h9am-4.30pm; bShiyakusho, exit 7)

The original structure, built between 1610 and 1614 by Tokugawa Ieyasu for

his ninth son, was levelled in WWII. Today’s castle is a concrete replica (with

elevator) completed in 1959. Renovations are ongoing. On the roof, look for

the 3m-long gilded shachi-hoko (legendary creatures possessing a tiger’s head

and a carp’s body). Inside, find treasures, an armour collection and the histories

of the Oda, Toyotomi and Tokugawa families. Free English tours run every day

at 1pm from the castle’s east gate.

The beautiful year-round garden, Ninomaru-en (二の丸園) has a number of

pretty teahouses.

International Design Centre Nagoya

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国際デザインセンター, Kokusai Dezain Sentaa; %052-265-2105;

www.idcn.jp; NADYA Park, 18-1, Sakae 3-Chome, Naka-ku; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; bYaba-chō, exit 5

or 6) F

Housed in the swooping Nadya Park complex is this secular shrine to the

deities of conceptualisation, form and function. Design touchstones from art

deco to postmodernism, Electrolux to Isamu Noguchi, Arne Jacobsen to the

Mini Cooper and everything in between is represented in these significant

galleries.

Ōsu Kannon

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大須観音; %052-231-6525; www.osu-kannon.jp; 2-21-47 Osu, Naka-ku; h24hr; bŌsu Kannon, exit 2)

The much-visited, workaday Ōsu Kannon temple traces its roots back to 1333.

Devoted to the Buddha of Compassion, the temple was moved to its present

location by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1610, although the current buildings date from

1970. The library inside holds the oldest known handwritten copy of the kojiki

– the ancient mythological history of Japan.

Coming from Kamimaezu Station, take exit 9 and walk north two blocks.

Turn left onto Banshoji street (万松寺通), a covered shopping arcade that

becomes Ōsu Kannon street and continues on to the temple. The streets either

side are alive with activity.

Nagoya TV Tower

TOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 名古屋テレビ塔; %052-971-8546; www.nagoyatv-tower.co.jp; 3-6-15

Nishiki, Naka-ku; adult/child ¥700/300; h10am-9pm; p; bSakae, exit 4b or 5a)

Nagoya’s much-loved TV tower, completed in 1954, was the first of its kind in

Japan. The tower’s central location makes its 100m-high Sky Balcony a great

place to get the lie of the land. Better still, the sprawling beer garden and

Korean barbecue at its base is unrivalled in town. Check the website for special

events and occasional night-time illuminations.

Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 名古屋ボストン美術館, Nagoya Boston Bijutsu-kan; %052-684-0101;

www.nagoya-boston.or.jp; 1-1-1 Kanayama-chō, Naka-ku; adult/child ¥1300/free; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun; dKanayama, south exit)

This collaborative effort between Japanese backers and the Museum of Fine

Arts Boston showcases a small but impressive collection of Japanese and

international masterpieces.

Sky Promenade

VIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スカイプロメナード; %052-527-8877; www.midland-square.com; 4-7-1

Meieki, Nakamura-ku; adult/child ¥750/500; h11am-9.30pm; dJR Nagoya)

On levels 44 to 46 of Midland Square (ミッドランドスクエア; hshops 11am-

8pm, restaurants to 11pm), Sky Promenade features Japan’s tallest open-air

observation deck and a handful of high-altitude, high-priced eateries, from

which you can overlook seemingly endless urban sprawl. Reach the promenade

via strikingly lit passageways.

Oasis 21

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; オアシス21; %052-962-1011; www.sakaepark.co.jp; 1-11-1 Higashi-sakura, Higashi-ku; bSakae, exit 4a)

Oasis 21 is a bus terminal and transit hub with a difference. Its iconic ‘galaxy

platform’ – an elliptical glass-and-steel structure filled with water for visual

effect and cooling purposes – caused quite a stir when it was built. Climb the

stairs and walk around it while you’re waiting for your next ride; it’s most fun

at night, when it’s adventurously lit.

1 Around Nagoya

SCMAGLEV & Railway Park

MUSEUM

(JR リニア・鉄道館, JR Rinia Tetsudō-kan; %050-3772-3910; http://museum.jr-central.co.jp; 3-2-

2 Kinjo-futo, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1000/200, shinkansen-driving simulator ¥500; h10am-5.30pm

Wed-Mon; p; dJR Aonami line to Kinjofuto)

Trainspotters will be in heaven at this fantastic hands-on museum. Featuring

actual maglev (the world’s fastest train – 581km/h), shinkansen (bullet trains),

historical rolling stock and rail simulators, the massive museum offers a

fascinating insight into Japanese postwar history through the development of a

railroad like no other. The ‘hangar’ is 20 minutes from Nagoya on the Aonami

line, found on the Taiko-dōri side of JR Nagoya Station.

The shinkansen- driving-simulator tickets are assigned on a lottery basis. You

must apply to the lottery on the day you wish to drive the simulator, and wait

for the results.

Toyota Exhibition Hall

MUSEUM

(トヨタ会館, Toyota Kaikan; %museum 0565-29-3345, tours 0565-29-3355;

www.toyota.co.jp/en/about_toyota/facility/toyota_kaikan; 1 Toyota-chō; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, tours 11am; dAichi Kanjō line to Mikawa Toyota) F

See up to 20 shiny examples of the latest automotive technology hot off the

production line and witness firsthand how they’re made here at Toyota’s global

HQ. Fascinating two-hour tours of Toyota Motor Corporation’s main factory

begin at the Exhibition Hall, with many exhibits fully revamped recently. You

can visit the museum any time it’s open, but free daily tours must be booked

two weeks to three months ahead. Check the website for full details.

Allow two hours to get to Toyota city from central Nagoya; refer to the

website for directions and reservations.

Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry & Technology

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トヨタテクノミュージアム産業技術記念館, Toyota Techno-museum Zangyō Gijutsu Kinenkan; %052-551-6115; www.tcmit.org; 4-1-35 Noritake-shinmachi;

adult/child ¥500/200; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; dMeitetsu Nagoya line to Sako)

The world’s largest car manufacturer had humble beginnings in the weaving

industry. This interesting museum occupies the site of Toyota’s original

weaving plant. Car enthusiasts will find things textile heavy before warming to

the 7900-sq-metre automotive and robotics pavilion. Science-minded folk will

enjoy the countless hands-on exhibits. Displays are bilingual and there’s an

English-language audio tour available.

Don’t confuse this museum with the Toyota Exhibition Hall and factory

tours.

z Festivals & Events

There are plenty of lively festivals and events to enjoy in a city of this size. A

good, up-to-date resource is www.nagoya-info.jp/en/event.

World Cosplay Summit

CULTURAL

(www.worldcosplaysummit.jp; hJul/Aug)

If you’re in Nagoya in July or August, be sure to see if your stay coincides with

some of the events of this truly unique visual feast, when cosplayers (costume

players) and anime (Japanese animation) fans from around the world come

together to…well, play, in costume!

Nagoya Matsuri

PARADE

(名古屋まつり; www.nagoya-festival.jp; hmid-Oct)

Nagoya’s big bash takes place in Hisaya-ōdōri-kōen (Central Park).

Celebrating Nagoya’s ‘three heroes’, the lively procession includes costumes,

karakuri ningyō (marionette) floats, folk dancing and decorated cars.

Grand Sumō Tournament Nagoya

SPECTATOR SPORT

(日本相撲協会名古屋場所, Nihon Sumō Kyōkai Nagoya Basho; %052-971-2516;

www.sumo.or.jp; Aichi-ken Taiiku-kan, 1-1 Ninomaru; tickets from ¥3000; hJul)

One of six annual sumo championship tournaments, Nagoya Basho is held over

two weeks in July at Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium. Arrive early in the

afternoon to watch the lower-ranked wrestlers up close.

4 Sleeping

If you’re passing through, stay near Nagoya or Kanayama Stations for

convenience. The area between Fushimi and Sakae or around Kamimaezu

subway station will suit you better if you want to hit the town.

Guesthouse Mado

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(ゲストハウスMADO; %050-7516-6632; www.guesthousemado.com; 924 Arimatsu, Midori-ku;

dm ¥3000; dMeitetsu Arimatsu)

This little guesthouse outside the hustle and bustle of downtown Nagoya in the

pretty Arimatsu district really is an extension of the friendly owner’s home,

with two small shared rooms. If you’re looking for a serene place to swap

stories and experience day-to-day life in Japan, rather than city lights, you’ll

enjoy the vibe here.

Glocal Nagoya Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グローカル名古屋ホステル; %052-446-6694; www.glocal-

backpackers-hostel.aichihotels.com/en; 1-21-3 Noritake, Nakamura-ku; dm ¥3025; naW; bNagoya, dJR

Nagoya)

This fabulously friendly hostel about seven minutes’ walk from Nagoya Station

has its own cafe and bar that’s popular with locals and guests alike. Staff (some

of whom live in) will make you feel welcome and are happy to dispense local

advice and practise their already well-honed English skills.

Royal Park Canvas Nagoya

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-300-1111; www.the-royalpark.jp/canvas/nagoya/en; 3-23-13 Meieiki, Nakamura-ku; s/d from ¥6000/12,000; naW; bKokusai Center)

This unpretentious, good-value hotel is steps away from Nagoya Station. It’s

been rebranded as part of Royal Park’s less-stuffy Canvas line, and features

cool drawings by Nagoya artist Yuka Takeda in guest rooms, the lobby and the

exclusive onsen. It’s popular with hip young Japanese families.

Dormy Inn Premium Nagoya Sakae

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ドーミーインPREMIUM名古屋栄; %052-231-5489;

www.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english/list/nagoya.html; 2-20-1 Nishiki, Naka-ku; s/d from ¥8000/12,000; naW; bFushimi)

Located in the heart of Nagoya’s Sakae district, this busy tourist hotel is that

little bit more luxe than the usual offering in the popular Dormy Inn chain, with

stylish furnishings, a Japanese restaurant, a terrace and attractive communal

baths. Relatively good value.

Kyoya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京屋旅館; %052-571-2588; www.kyoya.to; 2-11-4 Habashita, Nishi-ku; s/d with 2 meals from ¥13,200/16,000; aW; bKokusai Center)

This popular ryokan centred on an attractive Japanese garden can get a little

noisy when busy, but it has a lovely common bath and an even lovelier self-

contained private suite. It’s a little far from the bustle of Nagoya (and the

station), but the friendly owners are eager to help and they speak some English.

Daiwa Roynet Nagoya Ekimae

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ダイワロイネットホテル名古屋駅前; %052-541-3955;

www.daiwaroynethotelnagoyaekimae.com/en-us; 1-23-20 Meieki-minami, Nakamura-ku; s/d from

¥7000/10,000; aW; dJR Nagoya, Sakura-dōri exit)

If you’re merely transiting in Nagoya and need cheap, clean (and yes, compact)

digs near the station, look no further than this modern business hotel with

refreshingly comfortable bedding. It’s under 10 minutes’ walk from JR Nagoya

Station.

Hilton Nagoya

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ヒルトン名古屋; %052-212-1111; www.hilton.com; 1-3-3 Sakae, Naka-ku; s/d from ¥18,000/24,500; pnais; bFushimi, exit 7)

This characteristic Hilton benefits from an excellent location and features

spacious, stylish rooms with Japanese accents, a selection of suites and an

executive floor. There’s also complimentary bicycle rental, a courtesy station-

shuttle service, two restaurants, three bars and a gym. Most rooms have good

views.

5 Eating

For cheap international eats, head to the storefronts of the Ōsu Shopping

Arcade, where street vendors hawk everything from kebabs to karaage (deep-

fried items), crêpes and pizza.

o Misen

TAIWANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 味仙; %052-238-7357; www.misen.ne.jp; 3-6-3 Ōsu, Naka-ku; dishes ¥480-1500; h11.30am-2pm & 5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; av; bYaba-chō, exit 4)

Folks line up for opening time at this jolly place, where the Taiwan rāmen (台

湾ラーメン; a spicy concoction of ground meat, chilli, garlic and green onion,

served over noodles in a hearty clear broth) induces rapture. Other faves

include gomoku yakisoba (五目焼きそば; stir-fried noodles) and kinoko-itame

(stir-fried mushrooms). It may be Taiwanese, but locals will tell you: ‘this is

real Nagoya food’.

Love Pacific Cafe

VEGAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ラブ・パシフィックカフェ; %052-252-8429;

www.pacifit.jp/lovecafe.html; 3-23-38 Sakae; items from ¥600; h11.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; v; bYaba-chō,

exit 4)

Lovers of wholesome, delicious, healthy foods are in for a treat at this trendy,

friendly vegan cafe preparing lunch sets and cafe items that are free of dairy,

egg and white sugars. The changing menu usually features a choice of two

soups, access to the organic salad bar and a main: the tofu teriyaki burgers are

delicious.

Sōhonke Ebisuya Honten

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 総本家えびすや本店; %052-961-3412; 3-20-7 Nishiki; dishes/sets from

¥760/900; h11am-1am Mon-Sat; bSakae, exit 3)

The massive noodle bowls at this, the head branch of one of Nagoya’s best-

known kishimen (flat, handmade wheat noodle) chains, are toasty, tasty and

cheap. You can often see the noodles being made by the chef. There’s a picture

menu: try the karē kishimen (curry noodles).

o Atsuta Hōraiken Honten

SEAFOOD

¥ ¥

(あつた蓬莱軒本店; %052-671-8686; www.houraiken.com; 503 Gōdo-chō, Atsuta-ku; dishes

¥950, sets from ¥2500; h11.30am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Thu-Tue; bTemma-chō, exit 4)

The head branch of this hitsumabushi chain, in business since 1873, is revered

for good reason. Patrons queue during the summer peak season for

hitsumabushi (eel basted in a secret tare (sauce) served atop rice in a covered

lacquered bowl (¥3600); add green onion, wasabi and dashi (fish broth) to your

taste. Other teishoku (set meals) include tempura and steak.

Yabaton Honten

TONKATSU

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 矢場とん本店; %052-252-8810; http://english.yabaton.com; 3-6-18 Ōsu;

dishes from ¥1200; h11am-9pm; bYaba-chō, exit 4)

This has been the place to try Nagoya’s famed miso-katsu (a type of tonkatsu –

deep-fried pork cutlet) since 1947. Signature dishes are warajitonkatsu

(schnitzel-style flattened, breaded pork) and teppan-tonkatsu (breaded pork

cutlet with miso on a sizzling plate of cabbage). Look for the massive pig over

the door, just south of the overpass. It’s next to McDonald’s.

Check the website for other locations.

o Suzunami Honten

SEAFOOD

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鈴波本店; %052-261-1300; www.suzunami.co.jp/shop/shop_honten.html; 3-

7-23 Sakae, Naka-ku; lunch sets ¥1300; h11am-2.30pm; a)

Delightfully traditional but not overly formal, this Nagoyan kappo institution

specialises in simple grilled fish lunches served with miso soup, rice and

pickles, and finished off with umeshu (plum wine). You’ll likely have a short

wait for a table.

Trattoria Cesari

ITALIAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トラットリア チェザリ; %052-238-0372; www.cesari.jp; 3-36-44 Ōsu, Naka-ku; pizza from ¥1000, mains from ¥1100; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm Thu-Tue; bKamimaezu, exit 8)

You may be surprised to find an Italian trattoria of this calibre and value smack

bang in the heart of Nagoya. Prepare to queue at weekends, as folks line up for

chef Makishima’s famous Napoletana pizzas. There’s an extensive à la carte

menu of Italian favourites, presented in an atmosphere reminiscent of the

cuisine’s homeland.

Yamamotoya Sōhonke Honke

NOODLES

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山本屋総本家本家; %052-241-5617; 3-12-19 Sakae, Naka-ku; dishes

¥980-1920; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Thu-Tue; a; bYaba-chō, exit 6)

This is the place to go to for soupy miso-nikomi udon – the chain, which began

here, has been doing it since 1925. From Yaba-chō station, take exit 6, turn left,

cross Otsu-dōri and walk two blocks down Shirakawa-dōri. It’s on your right

and has a large white sign with black Japanese writing.

Torigin Honten

JAPANESE

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鳥銀本店; %052-973-3000; www.torigin.co.jp; 3-14-22 Nishiki; kaiseki courses from ¥5900; h5pm-midnight; bSakae, exit 2)

Come here for a unique kōchin kaiseki (haute cuisine featuring free-range

chicken) experience with immaculately presented servers and a wonderfully

traditional atmosphere. Courses consist of kōchin chicken served in many

forms, including kushiyaki (skewered), karaage (deep-fried), zōsui (mild rice

hotpot) and sashimi (raw).

DON’T MISS

NAGOYA SPECIALITIES

The city is famous for bold specialities that translate well for non-Japanese palates: kishimen are

soft, flat, handmade wheat noodles; miso-nikomi udon are noodles in a hearty miso broth; and

miso-katsu is a fried breaded pork cutlet topped with miso sauce. Kōchin (a local heritage breed of

chicken that’s raised free range), tebasaki (chicken wings) and hitsumabushi (charcoal-grilled eel)

are other local specialities.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Trunk Coffee & Craft Beer

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トランク コーヒーバー; %052-321-6626; www.trunkcoffee.com; 1-3-

14 Kamimaezu, Naka-ku; h11am-11pm; W; bKamimaezu, exit 6)

Order your cold-brew coffee or regional Japanese craft beer downstairs, then

head upstairs to soak in the David-Lynch-via-Stockholm design vibes at this

year-old spot. Come evening, join the hipsters outside for a cigarette on the

sidewalk. This is a welcome addition to the neighbourhood scene.

Smash Head

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スマッシュヘッド; %052-201-2790; http://smashhead.main.jp; 2-21-90

Ōsu; h11.30am-9pm Wed-Sun, to 3.30pm Mon; bŌsu Kannon, exit 2)

Through the passageway to the left of the main Ōsu Kannon temple building

you’ll find this teeny motorcycle- and Vespa-repair shop-pub (that’s right).

Guinness and Corona are the beers of choice, the patrons are cool, and the

bacon cheeseburgers cost ¥1100.

3 Entertainment

Electric Lady Land

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; エレクトリックレディランド; %052-201-5004; www.ell.co.jp; 2-

10-43 Ōsu; bŌsu Kannon, exit 2)

An intimate live venue showcasing the underground music scene in a cool,

post-industrial setting. Nationally known bands play the 1st-floor hall, while

up-and-coming acts have a smaller one on the 3rd floor.

7 Shopping

Both Meieki and Sakae are home to gargantuan malls and department stores,

good for clothing, crafts and food. In Ōsu, along Akamon-dōri, Banshō-ji-dōri

and Niomondōri, are hundreds of funky vintage boutiques and discount

clothing retailers. East of Ōsu, Otsu-dōri has a proliferation of manga

(Japanese comic) shops.

Komehyō

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コメ兵; %052-242-0088; www.en.komehyo.co.jp; 2-20-25 Ōsu; h10.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue; bŌsu Kannon, exit 2)

Enjoy the genius of Komehyō, Japan’s largest discounter of secondhand,

well…everything. Housed over seven floors in the main building, clothes,

jewellery and accessories are of excellent quality and are sold at reasonable

prices. With patience, you can find some real bargains, especially at ‘yen=g’ on

the 7th floor, where clothing is sold by weight.

DON’T MISS

NAGOYA’S MARKETS

Ōsu Kannon temple hosts a colourful antique market on the 18th and 28th of each month, while

Higashi Betsuin temple (just north of Higashi Betsuin subway station) has a flea market on the

12th of each month.

8 Information

MEDICAL SERVICES

Aichi Prefectural Emergency Medical Guide (愛知県救急医療ガイド; %052-

263-1133, automated service 050-5810-5884; www.qq.pref.aichi.jp) Phone or follow the English link on this prefectural homepage for a list of medical institutions with

English-speaking staff, including specialities and hours of operation.

Tachino Clinic ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; たちのクリニック; %052-541-9130; www.tachino-

clinic.com; 3F Dai-Nagoya Bldg, 3-26-8 Meieki; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9.30am-

1pm Thu & Sat; dJR Nagoya, Sakura-dōri exit) This clinic, a short walk from Nagoya

Station, has English-speaking staff.

RESOURCES

Nagoya Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.nagoya-info.jp/en) English-

language listings.

Nagoya International Center (www.nicnagoya.or.jp) Brimming with

information.

NAGMAG (www.nagmag.jp) English-language site with up-to-the-minute

events and reviews.

TOURIST INFORMATION

English-language street and subway maps are widely available at Tourist

Information Centers (TICs) and hotels. The Nagoya Pocket Guide

(www.nagoyapocketguide.com) is particularly handy, as are the Nagoya Navi Map and Nagoya Shopping & Dining Guide, which you can also download at

www.nagoya-info.jp/en/brochures.

Nagoya has three helpful TIC branches:

Tourist Information Center – Nagoya Station (名古屋駅観光案内所; %052-

541-4301; 1-1-14 Meieki; h9am-7pm; dJR Nagoya)

Tourist Information Center – Kanayama (金山観光案内所; %052-323-0161;

LOOP Kanayama 1F, 1-17-18 Kanayama; h9am-7pm; dJR Kanayama, north exit)

Tourist Information Center – Sakae (栄町観光案内所; %052-963-5252; Oasis 21

B1F, 1-11-1 Higashisakura; h10am-8pm; bSakae)

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

On an artificial island in Ise-wan, 35km south of the city, Central Japan

International Airport (NGO, Centrair; %056-938-1195; www.centrair.jp/en) is far friendlier and less frantic than its counterparts in Tokyo and Osaka. With

excellent transport connections, it’s a great arrival port into Japan from around

30 international destinations in Europe, North America and Asia. Domestic

routes serve about 20 Japanese cities, though you’ll find that some are reached

more quickly by train.

It also has Japan’s first in-airport onsen bath, Fū-no-yu (風の湯; %0569-38-

7070; www.centrair.jp/interest/visit/relax/bath.html; SkyTown 4F, Central Japan International Airport; adult/child with towel ¥1030/620; h8am-9pm; dCentral Japan International Airport), offering clear

views of airline take-offs and landings.

BOAT

Taiheiyo Ferry (%052-582-8611; www.taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp/english) sails snazzy ships between Nagoya and Tomakomai (Hokkaidō, from ¥9800, 40 hours) via Sendai

(from ¥6700, 21¾ hours) every other evening at 7pm, with daily services to

Sendai. Take the Meikō subway line to Nagoya-kō Station and go to Nagoya

Port.

BUS

JR and Meitetsu highway buses operate services between Nagoya and Kyoto

(¥2550, 2½ hours, hourly), Tokyo (from ¥2400, six hours, 14 daily) and

Kanazawa (¥4180, four hours, 10 daily), and less frequently to Kōbe (¥3400,

3½ hours), Takayama (¥2980, 2¾ hours) and Nagano (from ¥3600, 4½ hours).

Overnight buses run to Hiroshima (from ¥6400, nine hours).

Willer Express (www.willerexpress.com) offers airline-style seating and

online reservations in English at heavily discounted rates. Key routes from

Nagoya include Tokyo (from ¥3400, six hours, hourly) and Osaka (from

¥2200, three hours, hourly).

Departure points vary by carrier and destination, although almost all

highway buses depart from somewhere in Meieki (JR Nagoya Station). Some

routes also depart from Oasis 21. JR highway buses depart from the Nagoya

Bus Terminal (名古屋バスターミナル) near the shinkansen entrance (north

side) of JR Nagoya Station.

Meitetsu highway buses depart from the Meitetsu Bus Terminal (名鉄バス

ターミナル). Willer Express buses depart from a variety of locations,

depending on the route. Be sure to confirm your departure location with your

carrier at the time of booking.

TRAIN

All lines lead to Meieki (JR Nagoya Station), a hybrid terminus of the JR and

private Meitetsu and Kintetsu train lines, as well as subway and bus stations.

Here you’ll find a labyrinthine world of passageways, restaurants and retailers,

and above, the soaring JR Central Towers and Midland Square complexes. Be

sure to leave plenty of time if making a rail transfer!

Nagoya is a major shinkansen hub, connecting with Tokyo (¥10,360, 1¾

hours), Shin-Osaka (¥5830, 50 minutes), Kyoto (¥5070, 35 minutes),

Hiroshima (¥18,010, 2¼ hours) and Hakata/Fukuoka (¥22,530, 3¼ hours).

To get into the Japan Alps, take the JR Chūō-honsen line to Matsumoto on a

Shinano tokkyū (limited express; ¥6030, two hours) or onwards to Nagano

(¥7330, 2¾ hours). A separate line (JR Takayama) serves Takayama ( Hida

tokkyū ¥6030, 2¼ hours).

The private Meitetstu line has routes in and around Nagoya (Tokonome,

Inuyama, Gifu) covered.

8 Getting Around

BUS

The gold Me-guru (名古屋観光ルートバスメーグル; www.nagoya-

info.jp/en/routebus; day pass adult/child ¥500/250) bus follows a one-way loop near

attractions in the Meieki, Sakae and castle areas. Ticket holders receive

discounted admission to many attractions. It runs hourly from 9.30am to 5pm

Tuesday to Friday and twice hourly at weekends. There’s no bus on Monday.

SUBWAY

Nagoya has an excellent subway system with six lines, clearly signposted in

English and Japanese. Fares are ¥200 to ¥330 depending on distance. One-day

passes (¥740, including city buses ¥850), available at ticket machines, include

subway transport and discounted admission to many attractions. On Saturday

and Sunday the donichi eco-kippu (Saturday and Sunday eco-ticket) gives the

same benefits for ¥600 per day.

Inuyama 犬山

%0568 / POP 74,200

In Inuyama (犬山) the Kiso-gawa, aka the ‘Japanese Rhine’, paints a pretty

picture beneath its castle, a National Treasure, and the oldest wooden castle

still standing in Japan. By day, the castle, the quaint streets, manicured Uraku-

en and the 17th-century Jo-an teahouse make for pleasant strolling, while at

night fishermen perform the ancient art of ukai (cormorant fishing) by firelight.

Just beneath the castle are the picturesque Shintō shrines Haritsuna Jinja and

Sankō-Inari Jinja, the latter with interesting statues of komainu (protective

dogs) and a short pathway of red torii (gates).

Since 1635 townsfolk have celebrated the Inuyama Matsuri on the first

weekend in April. The festival highlight is a parade of lantern-strewn floats.

Inuyama

1 Top Sights

1 Inuyama-jō

A2

1 Sights

2 Dondenkan

A3

3 Haritsuna Jinja

A2

4 Inuyama Artifacts Museum/Castle & Town Museum

A2

5 Karakuri Exhibition Room (Annexe)

A2

6 Sankō-Inari Jinja

A2

7 Uraku-en & Chashitsu Jo-an

A2

4 Sleeping

8 Rinkō-kan

B1

5 Eating

9 Narita

B3

1 Sights

o Inuyama-jō

CASTLE

( MAP ; 犬山城; %0568-61-1711; www.inuyama-castle.jp; 65-2 Kitakoken; adult/child ¥550/110; h9am-4.30pm; dMeitetsu Inuyama-yūen)

A National Treasure, Japan’s oldest standing castle is said to have originated as

a fort in 1440. The current donjon (main keep), built atop a 40m rise beside the

Kiso-gawa, dates from 1537 and has resisted war, earthquake and restoration,

remaining an outstanding example of Momoyama-era architecture. Inside are

steep, narrow staircases and military displays – the view from the top is worth

the climb. The castle is 15 minutes’ walk from Meitetsu Inuyama-yūen Station.

Just south of Inuyama-jō, is picturesque Haritsuna-jinja (針綱神社; %0568-61-

0180; 65-1 Kitakoken) F, with a particularly photogenic tunnel of 20-plus red torii

(gates). Also nearby: Sankō Inari-jinja (三光稲荷神社; %0568-61-0702; 41-1

Kitakoken), with interesting statues of komainu (protective dogs) lovingly dressed

in cloth collars.

Inuyama Artifacts Museum/Castle & Town Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 犬山市文化史料館・城とまちミュージアム, Inuyama-shi Bunka Shiryō-

kan/Shiro to Machi Myūjiamu; %0568-62-4802; 8 Kitakoken; ¥100, with Inuyama-jō free; h9am-

4.30pm; dMeitetsu Inuyama-yūen)

This museum houses two float from the Inuyama Matsuri and various artefacts

related to cormorant fishing, Inuyama-jō and the town’s history.

In an annexe of the museum is the Karakuri Exhibition Room ( MAP ; から

くり展示館) which exhibits Edo- and Meiji-era karakuri ningyō (marionettes).

On Saturday and Sunday at 10.30am and 2pm you can see the wooden

characters in action. On Friday and Saturday between 10am and 4pm there are

demonstrations of how the puppets are made by artisan Tamaya Shobei the

ninth, who is the only living karakuri ningyō master from an unbroken lineage.

Uraku-en & Chashitsu Jo-an

GARDENS

( MAP ; 有楽苑・茶室如安; %0568-61-4608; 1 Gomonsaki; adult/child ¥1000/600; h9am-5pm

Mar-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Feb; dMeitetsu Inuyama-yūen)

Within the pretty garden of Uraku-en in the grounds of the Meitetsu Inuyama

Hotel, you’ll find ‘Jo-an’, one of the finest teahouses in Japan. One of

Inuyama’s National Treasures, Jo-an was built in 1618 in Kyoto by Oda

Urakusai, younger brother of Oda Nobunaga, and relocated here in 1972. You

can enjoy tea in the grounds for an additional ¥500.

Dondenkan

MUSEUM

( MAP ; どんでん館; %0568-65-1728; 62 Higashi-koken; adult/child ¥100/free; h9am-4.30pm;

dMeitetsu Inuyama)

A rotating selection of three to four of the 13 impressive floats from Inuyama

Matsuri are on year-round display in this custom-made building.

1 Around Inuyama

o Meiji-mura

MUSEUM

(明治村; %0568-67-0314; www.meijimura.com; 1 Uchiyama; adult/child ¥1700/1000; h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb, closed Mon Dec-Feb)

Due to war, earthquakes and development, few Meiji-era buildings have

survived here. In 1965 this open-air museum was created to preserve this

unique style, known for unifying Western and Japanese architectural elements.

Over 60 buildings from around Japan were painstakingly dismantled,

transported and reassembled in this leafy lakeside location. Favourites include

the entry facade of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Tokyo Imperial Hotel, Kyoto’s St

Francis Xavier’s Cathedral, and Sapporo’s telephone exchange.

Buses to Meiji-mura (¥420, 20 minutes) depart every 20 to 30 minutes from

Inuyama Station’s east exit. If you’re driving, parking is ¥800.

Ōagata-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(大縣神社; %0568-67-1017; 3 Aza Miyayama; dMeitetsu Komaki line to Gakuden)

This ancient shrine on a lovely hillside is dedicated to female Shintō deity

Izanami and attracts women seeking marriage or fertility. See if you can find

the large hime-ishi (姫石; princess stone) and other items resembling giant

female genitals. The popular Hime-no-miya Matsuri takes place here on the

Sunday before 15 March (or on 15 March if it’s a Sunday). Locals pray for

good harvests and prosperity by parading through the streets bearing a mikoshi

(portable shrine) with more replica vaginas.

Ōagata-jinja is a 25-minute walk from Gakuden Station (¥230 from

Inuyama, seven minutes). To reach the shrine, turn right at the exit and follow

Rte 177 east, all the way across the river and up the hill. Sadly, recent

expansion of a nearby industrial landfill threatens the tranquillity of the shrine.

Beware the many noisy, smelly dump trucks sharing the narrow road to your

destination.

Tagata-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(田県神社; 152 Tagata-chō; dMeitetsu Komaki line to Tagata-jinja-mae)

Izanagi, the male counterpart of female deity Izanami, is commemorated at this

shrine, with countless wooden and stone phalluses to celebrate. You can buy

souvenirs from ¥800. The Tagata Hōnen-sai Matsuri takes place on 15 March

at Tagata-jinja, when the highly photogenic, 2m-long, 60kg ‘sacred object’ is

paraded excitedly around the neighbourhood. Arrive well before the procession

starts at 2pm. Tagata-jinja is five minutes’ walk west of Tagata-jinja-mae

Station on the Meitetsu Komaki line (¥300 from Inuyama, nine minutes).

z Festivals & Events

Inuyama Matsuri

CULTURAL

(犬山まつり; hApr)

A governmentdesignated Intangible Cultural Asset, this festival features a

parade of 13 three-tiered floats strewn with 365 lanterns. Atop each float,

elaborate karakuri ningyō (marionettes) perform to music. The festival has

been held on the first weekend in April since 1635.

A scaled-down version is held on the fourth Saturday in October.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Inuyama has a few basic minshuku (guesthouses) and some tourist hotels that

have frankly seen better days. If nothing suits, consider staying in nearby Gifu

or Nagoya. Noodle and bentō (boxed meals) shops can be found at the train

station.

Rinkō-kan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP ; 臨江館; %0568-61-0977; www.rinkokan.jp; 8-1 Nishidaimon; r per person incl 2 meals & without bathroom from ¥12,000; paiW; dMeitetsu Inuyama-yūen, west exit)

Overlooking the river, this cheery 18-room ryokan has stone common baths,

including rotemburo (outdoor baths). Some rooms have in-room bathrooms,

and a variety of packages are available, including good deals for single

travellers. The retro avocado and coral upholstery is so unfashionable it’s

fashionable again.

Narita

FRENCH

¥ ¥

( MAP ; フレンチ創作料理なり多; %0568-65-2447; www.f-narita.com; 395 Higashikoken; 5-

course meals from ¥4300; h11am-9pm; dMeitetsu Inuyama, west exit)

Fancy five-course French cuisine in an Edo-period building with an attractive

garden – lovely! From the station, turn right at the lights, walk two blocks to

the next set of lights, then turn right. It’s on your right.

8 Information

Inuyama has two TICs that dispense English-language materials and assist with

accommodation and activities reservations. Visit www.ml.inuyama.gr.jp.

Inuyama Station Tourist Information Center (犬山市観光案内所 (犬山駅);

%0568-61-6000; h9am-5pm)

Inuyama Castle Tourist Information Center (犬山市観光案内所 (犬山城);

%0568-61-2825; 12 Kitakoken; h9am-5pm)

8 Getting There & Away

Inuyama is connected with Nagoya ( tokkyū ¥550, 37 minutes) and Gifu (¥450,

44 minutes) via the Meitetsu Inuyama line. The castle and ukai (cormorant-

fishing) area are slightly closer to Inuyama-yūen Station than Inuyama Station.

UKAI: THE ANCIENT ART OF CORMORANT FISHING

The cities of Inuyama and Gifu remain among the few places in the world where the ancient (and

some say barbaric) practice of cormorant fishing continues as it has done for centuries. Estimates

date the practice, which falls under the auspices of the Imperial Household Agency (the first and

finest fish of the year are sent to the emperor), at over 1300 years old. The masters (called ushō)

are so skilled that their craft is passed on from father to son.

During the ukai season (from May/June to 15 October), ushō set off after dusk in 13m traditional

boats, with an iron basket containing a burning fire suspended by a pole at the front of the boat.

Trained cormorants (large black, long-necked diving birds known for their voracious appetites)

tethered by neck ropes to their masters, are released from the boats to dive for ayu (sweetfish). The

ropes prevent the birds from swallowing the largest fish, which get lodged in their throats. Each

bird will hold around six large fish until the master pulls it back into his boat and the fish are

regurgitated. Although many object to this apparent cruelty, masters claim the birds are not harmed

by their training.

While it’s not for everyone, the spectacle of the fires reflected off the water and the opportunity

to witness a relatively unchanged traditional livelihood, make watching ukai a memorable evening

on the water. In Inuyama, cormorant fishing takes place close to Inuyama-yūen Station, by the

Inuyama-bashi.

In Gifu, Nagara-gawa Cormorant Fishing (長良川鵜飼い, Nagara-gawa Ukai), attended by the

glow of lanterns drifting along the river, can be glimpsed east of the Nagara-bashi. There are also

exhibits on cormorant fishing at the Nagara River Ukai Museum (長良川うかいミュージアム,

Nagara-gawa Ukai Myūjiamu; %058-210-1555; www.ukaimuseum.jp; 51-2 Choryo; adult/child

¥500/250; h9am-6.30pm Wed-Mon May–mid-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Wed-Mon mid-Oct–Apr; gcity

loop or N-line bus to Ukai-ya).

Gifu 岐阜

%058 / POP 406,735

Historically, Gifu (岐阜) has a strong association with Oda Nobunaga, daimyō

(domain lord) of the castle and bestower of the city’s name in 1567. The city

was later visited by famed haiku poet Matsuo Bashō, who witnessed ukai

(cormorant fishing) here in 1688; Charlie Chaplin did the same in his day.

Contemporary Gifu shows little evidence of those historic times (due to a

colossal earthquake in 1891 and the decimation of WWII); redevelopment has

created a tidy and accessible downtown core. Skyscrapers give way to modest

houses heading north toward the river; nearby, noteworthy attractions surround

Gifu castle, including the beautiful Gifu park and one of the three Great

Buddhas of Japan. Pretty mountains, a wide river and excellent transport links

mean big-city convenience with small-town charisma.

1 Sights

Visitors generally arrive in Gifu at JR Gifu or Meitetsu Gifu Stations, but

sightseeing is centred on Gifu-kōen (岐阜公園), a 15-minute bus ride north of

the train stations. At the foot of Kinka-zan, this is one of the loveliest city parks

in Japan, with plenty of water and trees set into the hillside. People have been

living and working here for centuries; you can see pottery excavations at the

history museum on the park grounds.

Shōhō-ji (Gifu Great Buddha)

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(正法寺; %058-264-2760; 8 Daibutsu-chō; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-5pm; gN80, N32-N86 to

Gifu-kōen)

The main attraction of this orange-and-white temple is the papiermâché

daibutsu (Great Buddha; c 1832), one of the three Great Buddha statues of

Japan. It’s 13.7m tall and is said to have been fashioned over 38 years using a

tonne of paper sutras.

Nawa Insect Museum

MUSEUM

(名和昆虫博物館; %058-263-0038; 2-18 Omiyacho; adult/child ¥500/400; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)

On the grounds of Gifu-kōen is this quirky collection of more than 300,000

beetle, butterfly, moth and other insect specimens. It’s the personal collection

of Gifu-born entomologist Yasushi Nawa, who founded the museum in 1912.

Between display cases are terrariums of well-camouflaged live insects. It’s

creepy fun even if your age is no longer in the single digits.

Gifu City History Museum

MUSEUM

(岐阜市歴史博物館, Gifu-shi Rekishi Hakubutsukan; %058-265-0010;

www.gifucvb.or.jp/en/01_sightseeing/01_05.html; 2-18-1 Ōmiya-chō; adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; gN80, N32-N86 to Gifu-kōen)

Located within the grounds of Gifu-kōen, this museum focuses on the Sengoku

period, when daimyō Oda Nobunaga was at the height of his power.

Enthusiastic staff members are keen to show visitors wonderful DIY facsimiles

of traditional crafts.

Gifu-jō

CASTLE

(岐阜城; %058-263-4853; www.gifucvb.or.jp/en/01_sightseeing/01_02.html; 18 Tenshukaku; adult/child ¥200/100; h9.30am-4.30pm; gN80, N32-N86 to Gifu-kōen)

Perched atop Kinka-zan and with sweeping views over the cities of Gifu and

Nagoya, this castle is a 1956 concrete replica of daimyō Oda Nobunaga’s

stronghold, destroyed in 1600, the ruins of which were finished off in WWII.

There’s an hour-long hiking trail from the park below.

Or you could take the Kinka-zan Ropeway (金華山ロープウエー; %058-262-

6784; 257 Senjōjiki-shita; adult/child return ¥1080/540; h9am-5pm year-round, hours extended in

holiday periods), also within the park, which whisks you 329m to the summit in

less than five minutes.

4 Sleeping

There are plenty of modern, characterlessbut-convenient business hotels

around the JR and Meitetsu station areas.

Guesthouse Kiten

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(ゲストハウス岐てん; %058-263-8218; http://gh-kiten.jugem.jp/?pid=1; 1-20 Chūsetsuchō; r per

person without bathroom ¥4500; nW; dJR Gifu, north exit)

Tiny Kiten, right on the Nagawakawa, is a welcoming place to rest your head.

Cosy (read: small) Japanese-style tatami rooms set in a refurbished 50-year-old

house are tidy and comfortable, as are shared bathrooms and common areas.

Proprietor Osugi is a wealth of local knowledge and may whisk you off to

dinner if you let him. It’s a 30-minute walk north from JR Gifu Station.

Dormy Inn Gifu Ekimae

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(ドーミーイン岐阜; %058-267-5489; www.hotespa.net/hotels/gifu; 6-31 Yoshino-machi; s/d from

¥7900/11,400; aW; dJR Gifu, north exit)

This newish hotel is five minutes’ stroll along the elevated walkway from JR

Gifu Station. Bright rooms are functionally compact. There’s an on-site onsen

and the guest laundry has gas-powered dryers (so you can actually get a decent

amount of clothing dried). Breakfast is available for ¥1500.

5 Eating

The narrow streets a few blocks north of JR Gifu Station and west of Meitetsu

Gifu Station, between Kinkabashi-dōri and Nagarabashi-dōri, are dotted with

open-air eateries and izakaya (pub-restaurants), and have a welcoming

nocturnal vibe.

o Gyōza Gishū

GYOZA

¥

(餃子専門店 岐州; %058-266-6227; 1-31 Sumidamachi; gyōza from ¥450; h5.30pm until sold out

Wed-Mon)

This humming hole-in-the-wall place does soupy, fried gyōza (dumplings) and

ebi chahan (shrimp fried rice) – and, of course, beer. Go straight from JR Gifu

Station along the street between Kinkabashi-dōri and Nagarabashi-dōri. It’s on

the corner of the second block, to your right, behind Tokyo Mitsubishi UFJ

Bank.

Sarashina

SOBA

¥ ¥

(更科; %058-265-9594; http://tanuki-soba.com; 3-4 Kyomachi; mains from ¥1000; h10.30am-7pm Fri-Wed)

This 100-year-old shop is renowned among locals for delicious tanuki soba

(buckwheat noodles topped with crunchy tempura bits left over from the deep

fryer). Tanuki is the Japanese word for badger; the tenuous link is that badgers

and the buckwheat used to make soba both come from the mountains. Meditate

on ceramic badger figurines while slurping.

Senryū

JAPANESE

¥ ¥ ¥

(潜龍; %058-231-1151; www.senryu.co.jp; 14 Nagara; set menus from ¥10,000; h11.30am-9.30pm Wed-Mon)

Since 1966 this delightful restaurant has been preparing succulent Hida beef in

private tatami rooms in a traditional Japanese house. On the banks of the

Nagaragawa in view of Gifu-jō, and overlooking a manicured garden, the

setting is delightful. If you’re looking for an authentic teppanyaki experience

(priced accordingly), you’ve found it. Some Japanese-language ability is

advantageous.

7 Shopping

Gifu’s craft tradition includes wagasa (oiled-paper parasols/umbrellas) and

elegantly painted chōchin (paper lanterns), though the number of real artisans

is dwindling – souvenir shops sell mass-produced versions. The Tourist

Information Center has a map of high-quality makers and retailers. Expect to

pay ¥10,000 and up for the good stuff.

Sakaida Eikichi Honten

ARTS & CRAFTS

(坂井田永吉本店; %058-271-6958; 27 Kanōnakahiroe-chō; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

This high-end maker of wagasa (oiledpaper parasols/umbrellas) is a 10-minute

walk from JR Gifu Station. Turn left from the south exit, then right at the

second stoplight. It’s on the next corner.

Ozeki Chōchin

ARTS & CRAFTS

(オゼキ; %058-263-0111; www.ozeki-lantern.co.jp; 1-18 Oguma-chō; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; gKen-Sōgōchōsha-mae)

Find beautiful paper lanterns here, by Higashi Betsuin temple.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (観光案内所; %058-262-4415; JR Gifu Station; h9am-7pm

Mar-Dec, to 6pm Jan & Feb) Within JR Gifu Station; friendly staff can direct you to

maps, accommodation and bicycle rentals (¥100 per day).

8 Getting There & Away

Gifu is a blink from Nagoya on the JR Tōkaidō line ( tokkyū ¥470, 20 minutes).

Meitetsu trains take longer and are more expensive (¥550, 28 minutes) but also

serve Inuyama (¥450, 35 minutes) and Central Japan International Airport

( tokkyū ¥1340, 64 minutes).

JR Gifu and Meitetsu Gifu Stations are a few minutes’ walk apart, joined by

a covered elevated walkway.

8 Getting Around

Buses to sights (¥200) depart from stops 11 and 12 of the bus terminal by JR

Gifu Station’s Nagara exit, stopping at Meitetsu Gifu Station en route. There’s

also a city-loop bus from stop 10. Check before boarding, as not all buses make

all stops.

Gujō-Hachiman 郡上八幡

%0575 / POP 44,723

Nestled in the mountains at the confluence of several rivers, Gujō-Hachiman

(郡上八幡) is a picturesque town that invites leisurely strolls along the river

before kaiseki (haute cuisine) feasting and early to bed. Come summer, tourists

flock to the town for the raucous Gujō Odori folk-dance festival. Rather

incongruously, this is also where plastic food models were invented.

Following a tradition dating to the 1590s, townsfolk engage in frenzied

dancing on 32 nights between mid-July and early September. Visitor

participation is encouraged, especially during tetsuya odori, the four main days

of the festival (13 to 16 August), when the dancing goes all night.

Otherwise, the town’s good-value ryokan, sparkling rivers, well-preserved

wooden storefronts and stone bridges beneath wooded peaks maintain appeal.

Near the town centre, the famous spring Sōgi-sui is a pilgrimage site, named

for a Momoyama-era poet. Spring connoisseurs place Sōgi-sui at the top of the

list for clarity.

1 Sights & Activities

Resident Yuka Takada (Gujoinus) offers free English-language walking tours in

the region. Contact her by email at pupi@zd.wakwak.com.

Gujō Hachiman-jō

CASTLE

(郡上八幡城; %0575-65-5839; www.gujohachiman.com/kanko/history_e.html; 659 Hachimanchō;

adult/child ¥310/150; h9am-5pm)

Twenty minutes’ hike from Jōka-machi Plaza bus terminal you’ll find the pride

of Gujō, a 1933 reconstruction of the previous fortress, originally constructed

in 1559 but destroyed in the Meiji period. The handsome hilltop castle contains

various weaponry and has wonderful views across the valley. There’s no access

by public transport.

Shokuhin Sample Kōbō

WORKSHOP

(食品サンプル工房創作館; %0575-67-1870; www.samplekobo.com; 956 Hachiman-chō;

h9am-5pm Fri-Wed) F

Realistic food models were one of life’s great mysteries – until now. In an old

merchant house, this hands-on workshop lets you see how it’s done and try

creating them yourself (reservations required). Tempura and lettuce (four

pieces, ¥1200) and a spilled-ice-cream smartphone stand (¥900) make

memorable souvenirs. It’s about five minutes’ walk from Jōka-machi Plaza,

across the river.

4 Sleeping & Eating

The town’s few inexpensive ryokan and minshuku (guesthouses) make

spending a quiet night in this delightful hamlet a worthwhile consideration.

There are a few quaint riverside restaurants, but most close before

dinnertime. Most overnight guests choose to dine at their lodgings.

Bizenya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(備前屋旅館; %0575-65-2068; www.gujyobizenya.jp; 264 Yanagi-machi; r per person without bathroom from ¥6400; p)

This quietly upscale ryokan near Shin-bashi faces a lovely garden. Some rooms

have private facilities; plans with or without meals are available.

Nakashimaya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(中嶋屋旅館; %0575-65-2191; www.nakashimaya.net; 940 Shinmachi; r per person without

bathroom from ¥6500; p)

Delightfully well kept, compact and comfortable, Nakashimaya Ryokan is

between the train station and the Tourist Association. There’s an organic cafe

next door.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Onabi-en

TEAHOUSE

(郡上銘茶 小那比園; Hachimancho, btwn Shin-bashi & Miyagase-bashi; h10am-5pm Apr-Nov)

Come for the Fukui Prefecture–grown green tea packaged for gifting, stay for

the mind-blowing matcha (powdered green tea) soft ice cream. Onabi is 100m

west of Bizenya Ryokan. You’ll know it from the green-ice-cream cone out the

front.

8 Information

Tourist Association (観光協会; %0575-67-0002; www.gujohachiman.com/kanko; 520-1

Shimadani; h8.30am-5pm) Pick up a walking map in English or rent a bicycle

(¥300/1500 per hour/day) from this tourist office, located by Shin-bashi.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

The most convenient access to Gujō-Hachiman is via bus from Gifu (¥1520,

one hour). Be sure to get off at the Jōka-machi Plaza stop, which is not the end

of the line. Nōhi Bus also operates services from Nagoya (¥1850, 1½ hours)

and Takayama (¥1650, 1¼ hours), but these only stop at the Gujō-Hachiman

Highway Interchange on the outskirts of town.

TRAIN

The private Nagaragawa Tetsudō line serves Gujō-Hachiman from Mino-Ōta

(¥1350, 80 minutes, hourly), with connections via the JR Takayama line to

Nagoya ( tokkyū ¥2320, 45 minutes; futsū via Gifu ¥1140, one hour) and

Takayama ( tokkyū/futsū ¥3770/1940, 1¾/three hours), but the station is located

a little inconveniently: about a 20-minute walk away from the sights.

In 2016 Nagaragawa Tetsudō (www.nagatetsu.co.jp) launched a new tourist

train, Nagara, between Mino-Ōta and Gujō-Hachiman, with 1st-class seating,

narration (in Japanese) and special French and Italian dining options (¥12,000

return). The train departs Mino-Ōta at 10.40am and arrives in Gujō-Hachiman

at 12.16pm (Friday to Sunday). The ¥500 surcharge on top of the regular fare

brings the total fare to ¥1850.

KISO VALLEY NAKASENDŌ 中仙道

The Nakasendō (中仙道) was one of the five highways of the Edo period,

and one of the two connecting Edo (now Tokyo) with Kyoto. This was the

inland route, preferred by many to the Tōkaidō, which went around the coast

and required many river crossings. Much of the route is now followed by

national roads; however, in the thickly forested Kiso Valley there exist

several sections of twisty, craggy post road that have been carefully restored.

Most impressive is the 7.8km stretch of trail between Magome and

Tsumago, two of the most attractive Nakasendō towns. Walking this route is

one of Japan’s most rewarding visitor experiences.

There were 11 post towns, each with the suffix - juku to its name, in the

valley. Fukushima-juku (Kiso-Fukushima Station) and Narai-juku (Narai

Station) boast areas evoking memories of the past and are easily reached by

train.

Nakasendō, Tsumago | JEF WODNIACK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Sleeping & Eating

Along this historic highway you’ll find lovely, unpretentious minshuku

(guesthouses) and ryokan that won’t break the budget.

If you’re only spending one night on the Nakasendō, Tsumago, which has

a little more to choose from than the other towns in the valley, is the most

popular choice.

Dining is limited to a handful of options in the evenings; most overnight

visitors eat where they sleep.

8 Getting There & Around

The easiest way to reach the area is by tokkyū Shinano trains on the JR Chūō

line from Nagoya or Matsumoto. Key stations include Nakatsugawa (for

Magome), Nagiso (for Tsumago), Kiso-Fukushima (for Kiso) and Narai (for

Narai). Slower local trains will also do the trick.

This is also a great area to explore with your own wheels.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

HIKING IN THE CENTRAL ALPS

Officially called Kiso Sanmyaku (木曽山脈), the range of mountains east of the Kiso Valley is

better known to the Japanese as the Chūō (Central; 中央) Alps. They may not be as high as the

Northern and Southern Alps, but the Central Alps present a brilliant opportunity for just about

anyone to climb 2956m Kiso-komagatake (木曽駒ケ岳), one of Japan’s 100 Famous

Mountains, thanks to the Komagatake Ropeway (駒ヶ岳ロープウェイ; MAP ; %0265-83-

3107; www.chuo-alps.com; 759-489 Akaho, Komagane; 1 way/return ¥1210/2260; hevery

30min 8am-5pm), which lifts visitors up to 2612m in the Senjōjiki cirque. This is the highest

station in Japan, and even if you only make it this far you’re in for a thrill: on a good day you

can see virtually all the Southern Alps and even Fuji-san. Kiso-komagatake can be climbed

from the top station in three hours return. Keen and well-prepared hikers can hike over the top

and down into the Kiso Valley, not far from Kiso-Fukushima.

The Komagatake Ropeway is on the eastern side of the Central Alps. You’ll need to make

your way to Komagane (駒ヶ根), on the JR Iida line in the Tenryū river valley, then take a bus

to Shirabidaira, where you’ll find the bottom ropeway station. Check www.chuo-alps.com for bus, ropeway, accommodation and hiking details.

Magome 馬篭

%0264 / POP 460

Located in the administrative district of Nakatsugawa, in Gifu Prefecture,

pretty Magome-juku (馬篭) is the furthest south of the Kiso Valley post

villages. Its buildings line a steep, cobblestone pedestrian road (unfriendly to

wheelie suitcases); the rustic shopfronts and mountain views will keep your

finger on the shutter. This is the starting point for the popular 7.8km

Magome-to-Tsumago hike.

4 Sleeping

o Magome-Chaya

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(馬籠茶屋; %0264-59-2038; www.magomechaya.com; 4296 Magome; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥8525; aW)

This popular minshuku (guesthouse) is almost halfway up the hill, just before

the Tourist Information Office. Room-only plans are available and English is

spoken. Check out its excellent English website.

Minshuku Tajimaya

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(民宿但馬屋; %0264-69-2048; www.kiso-tajimaya.com; 4266 Magome; r incl 2 meals & without

bathroom from ¥9800; naW)

This pleasant historical inn has compact rooms and friendly staff. The array

of local specialities served in the common dining area is impressive, as are

the hinoki (cypress) baths.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (観光案内館; %0264-59-2336; www.kiso-magome.com;

4300-1 Magome; h9am-5pm) Extremely helpful, with a good English map, but

located somewhat inconveniently halfway up the hill, to the right. A

baggage-forwarding service to Tsumago is available.

8 Getting There & Away

Nakatsugawa Station on the JR Chūō line serves Magome, though it’s some

distance from the town. Nakatsugawa is connected with Nagoya ( tokkyū

¥2820, 55 minutes) and Matsumoto ( tokkyū ¥4090, 1¼ hours).

Buses leave hourly from Nakatsugawa Station for Magome (¥560, 30

minutes). There’s also an infrequent bus service between Magome and

Tsumago (¥600, 25 minutes), via Magome-tōge.

8 Getting Around

If fitness or ability prevent you from appreciating the amazing walk between

Magome and Tsumago, there’s an easier way. The Magome–Tsumago bus

(¥600, 25 minutes, two to three daily in each direction) also stops at

Magome-tōge. If you alight and begin the walk there, it’s a picturesque

5.2km downhill run to Tsumago.

Tsumago 妻籠

%0264 / POP 630

Tsumago (妻籠), about 15 minutes’ walk from end to end, feels like an

open-air museum village. Part of Nagiso town, it has been designated a

protected area for the preservation of traditional buildings: modern

developments such as telephone poles aren’t allowed to mar the scene. The

dark-wood glory of its lattice-front buildings is particularly beautiful at dawn

and dusk. Film and TV crews are often spotted here.

On 23 November the Fuzoku Emaki parade, featuring townsfolk in Edo-

period costume, is held along the Nakasendō in Tsumago.

1 Sights

Tsumagojuku-honjin

HISTORIC BUILDING

(妻籠宿本陣; 2190 Azuma; adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-5pm)

It was in this building that the daimyō (domain lords) themselves would

spend the night, although the building’s architecture is more noteworthy than

its exhibits. A combined ticket (adult/child ¥700/350) includes admission to

Waki-honjin (Okuya) and Local History Museum, opposite.

Waki-honjin (Okuya) & Local History Museum

MUSEUM

(脇本陣 (奥谷)・歴史資料館, Rekishi Shiryōkan; 2159-2 Azuma; adult/child ¥600/300;

h9am-5pm)

This waki-honjin (rest stop) for the daimyōs’ (domain lords’) retainers was

reconstructed in 1877 by a former castle builder under special dispensation

from Emperor Meiji. It contains a lovely moss garden and a special toilet

built in case Meiji happened to show up – he never did. The adjacent Local

History Museum houses elegant exhibitions about Kiso and the Nakasendō,

with some English signage.

MAGOME–TSUMAGO HIKE

From Magome (elevation 600m), the 7.8km hike to Tsumago (elevation 420m) follows a steep,

largely paved road until it reaches its peak at the top of Magome-tōge (pass) – elevation 801m.

After the pass, the trail meanders by waterfalls, forest and farmland. The route is easiest in this

direction and is clearly signposted in English; allow three to six hours to enjoy it.

Both towns offer a handy baggage-forwarding service from either Tourist Information Center

to the other. Deposit your bags between 8.30am and 11.30am for delivery by 1pm.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Fujioto

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(藤乙; %0264-57-3009; www.tsumago-fujioto.jp; 858-1 Tsumago; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥11,000; naW)

The owner of this unpretentious, welcoming inn speaks some English, Italian

and Spanish. It’s a great place to have your first ryokan experience, as most

staff are able to communicate well with travellers, especially over the

wonderful kaiseki dinner. Corner upstairs rooms have lovely views. You can

also stop by for lunch – try the Kiso Valley trout (¥1350).

Oyado Daikichi

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(御宿大吉; %0264-57-2595; www17.plala.or.jp/daikiti/english.html; 902-1 Azuma; r per person

incl 2 meals from ¥8500; naW)

Popular with foreign visitors, this traditional-looking inn benefits from

modern construction and has a prime location on the top of the hill – all

rooms have a lovely outlook. It’s at the very edge of town. There’s an

English website and English is spoken.

Matsushiro-ya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(松代屋旅館; %0264-57-3022; http://matsushiroya.sakura.ne.jp; 807 Azuma; r per person with/without 2 meals ¥11,000/5500; hThu-Tue; aW)

Showing signs of age, this is one of Tsumago’s most historic lodgings (parts

date from 1804). It has large tatami rooms and plenty of authentic charm.

Yoshimura-ya

NOODLES

¥

(吉村屋; %0264-57-3265; 2176-1 Azuma; dishes from ¥720; h10am-5pm; v)

If you’re hungry after a long walk, you can’t go past a chilled bowl of

handmade Kiso zaru-soba (cold buckwheat noodles with dipping sauce).

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (観光案内館; %0264-57-3123; www.tumago.jp/english;

2159-2 Azuma; h8.30am-5pm) In the centre of town. Some English is spoken and

there’s English-language literature. Ask here for any directions.

8 Getting There & Away

Nagiso Station, on the JR Chūō line, serves Tsumago, though it’s 3.6km

from Tsumago so you could walk it. Buses run between Tsumago and

Nagiso Station (¥280, 10 minutes, eight daily).

You’ll need to change to a local train at Nakatsugawa Station (¥320, 20

minutes) if you’re coming from the Nagoya direction, or at Kiso-Fukushima

(¥580, 40 minutes) if you’re coming from the Matsumoto direction.

There’s an infrequent bus service between Magome and Tsumago (¥600,

25 minutes), via Magome-tōge.

Kiso 木曽

%0264 / POP 28,500

Kiso (木曽町; kiso-machi) is larger and considerably more developed than

Magome, Tsumago or Narai. There’s a full-on town here around Kiso-

Fukushima Station and also an atmospheric historic district. Kiso was an

important checkpoint on the Nakasendō, and in times requiring high security

the road would be blocked off at Fukushima-juku.

These days, Kiso-Fukushima is the jumping-off point for hikers and

sightseers heading to Ontake-san, Japan’s second-highest volcano (3067m).

1 Sights

From Kiso-Fukushima train station, turn right and head downhill towards the

town centre and the Kiso-gawa. Sights are well signposted. Look for Ue-no-

dan (上の段), the historic district of atmospheric houses and buildings.

Fukushima Checkpoint Site

MUSEUM

(福島関所跡, Fukushima Sekisho-ato; %0264-23-2595; www.town-kiso.com/facility/100024;

4748-1 Sekimachi; adult/child ¥300/150; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-4pm Nov-Mar)

This is a reconstruction of one of the most significant checkpoints on the

Edo-period trunk roads. From its perch above the river valley, it’s easy to see

the barrier’s strategic importance. Displays inside show the implements used

to maintain order, including weaponry and tegata (wooden travel passes), as

well as the special treatment women travellers received.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a few good eateries in the village and by the train station.

Ryokan Sarashinaya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(旅館 さらしなや; %0264-22-2307; http://sarashinaya.com; 6168 Nakajima; s/d without

bathroom from ¥6000/10,000; pnaW)

A short walk from Kiso-Fukushima Station, this ryokan offers simple

Japanese-style rooms in a low-key, foreigner-friendly setting. The historic

district of Ue-no-dan is only a short stroll away.

o Kurumaya Honten

NOODLES

¥

(くるまや本店; %0264-22-2200; www.soba-kurumaya.com; 5367-2 Kiso-machi, Fukushima;

mains from ¥670; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue; v)

One of Japan’s most renowned soba shops, where the classic presentation is

cold mori (plain) or zaru (with strips of nori) with a sweetish dipping sauce.

It’s near the first bridge at the bottom of the hill; look for the gears above the

doorway.

Bistro Matsushima-tei

ITALIAN

¥ ¥

(ビストロ 松島亭; %0264-23-3625; 5250-1 Ue-no-dan; mains from ¥1300, lunch sets from

¥1300; hlunch & dinner daily Jul-Oct, Thu-Tue Nov-Jun)

In the historic Ue-no-dan district, Bistro Matsushima-tei serves a changing

selection of handmade pizzas and pastas in an atmospheric setting befitting

the magnificent building’s history.

WORTH A TRIP

CLIMBING ONTAKE-SAN

Sitting about 20km west of Kiso is Japan’s second-highest volcano (after Fuji-san), the massive,

active stratovolcano Ontake-san (御嶽山; 3067m). This stand-alone volcano can claim its own

religion in the form of Ontake-kyō, a Shinto sect of mountain ascetics who wear white and

practise harsh physical training. It’s not as harsh as it used to be, though, as these days most

practitioners and amateur hikers either whiz up to 2150m on the ropeway or start their climb at

Ta-no-hara (田の原; 2180m), where there’s a sizeable car park. Either way, they have only

around 900 vertical metres to climb.

The road to Ta-no-hara and the hike to the peak, known as Ken-ga-mine (剣ヶ峰), make for

an unforgettable experience, as both the road and the track are lined with small shrines, shinto

gates and religious statues. Throw in cobalt-blue lakes and magnificent views, and Ontake

makes a great day-hike from Ta-no-hara – allow five to six hours return. Although there are a

few buses from Kiso in summer, having your own wheels will be a blessing here. Early July to

late September is the best hiking period.

Alternatively, take a bus from Kiso-Fukushima Station (one way/return ¥1500/2500) to the

Ontake Ropeway ( MAP ; 御嶽ロープウェイ; %0264-46-2525; www.ontakerope.co.jp; one-way/return ¥1400/2600). Allow five to six hours for the return hike from the top of the

ropeway, from where there are tracks to the peak. See the website for bus and ropeway details.

Keep in mind that Ontake-san is an active volcano. Unfortunately for the 63 hikers who lost

their lives, Ontake erupted just before lunchtime on Saturday 27 September 2014, covering the

mountain in ash. If it had erupted at 3am, very likely no lives would have been lost. Various

hiking restrictions have been in place since; find out the latest by contacting the Kiso Tourist

Information Center before heading out.

8 Information

Kiso Tourist Information Center (木曽町観光協会; %0264-22-4000;

https://en.visitkiso.com; 2012-10 Kiso-machi, Fukushima; h9am-5pm) Across from the train station; the friendly staff here have English maps and brochures.

8 Getting There & Away

Kiso-Fukushima is on the JR Chūō line (Shinano tokkyū); it’s easily reached

from Matsumoto (¥2470, 40 minutes), Nakatsugawa (¥2470, 35 minutes)

and Nagoya (¥4420, 1½ hours).

Narai 奈良井

%0264 / POP 580

A stunning example of a Nakasendō post town, little Narai (奈良井) is a

gem tucked away in the folds of the northern end of the valley; it belongs to

the city of Shiojiri, in Nagano Prefecture. Once called ‘Narai of a thousand

houses’, it flourished during the Edo period, when its proximity to the

highest pass on the Nakasendō made it a popular resting place for travellers.

Today it’s a conservation area, with a preserved main street extending

about 1.5km south from the station and showcasing some wonderful

examples of Edo-period architecture. Look for Nakamura House (中村邸;

%0264-34-2655; adult/child ¥300/free; h9am-4pm), a wonderfully preserved former

merchant’s house and garden. Narai is famed for shikki (lacquerware). Plenty

of quality souvenir shops line the main street, many with reasonable prices.

If you’re not hiking from Magome to Tsumago, this is the easiest of the

atmospheric old Nakasendō towns to visit on a day trip.

4 Sleeping & Eating

A handful of cafes cater to the village’s slow but steady stream of tourists

during the day.

o Echigo-ya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(ゑちごや旅館; %0264-34-3011; www.naraijyuku-echigoya.jp; 493 Narai; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥15,000; aW)

In business for more than 220 years, this charming, family-run ryokan is one

of a kind. With only two guest rooms, Echigo-ya provides an opportunity to

experience the Japanese art of hospitality in its most undiluted form. You’ll

feel as though you’ve stepped back in time. Some Japaneselanguage ability

will help make the most of your stay. Book well ahead. Cash only.

Oyado Iseya

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(御宿伊勢屋; %0264-34-3051; www.oyadoiseya.jp; 388 Narai; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥9800; aW)

The street frontage of this former merchant house (built 1818) has been

beautifully preserved. The site is now home to a pleasant 10-room inn, with

guest rooms in the main house and a newer building out the back.

Matsunami

SHOKUDO

¥

(松波; %0264-34-3750; 397-1 Narai; light meals from ¥650; h11.30am-8pm Wed-Mon)

This delightful little eatery on a corner serves simple favourites such as

special-sauce tonkatsudon (deep-fried pork cutlet on rice).

8 Information

Narai Tourist Information Center (奈良井宿観光協会; %0264-54-2001;

www.naraijuku.com; h9am-5pm May-Oct) Inside Narai Station. There’s another office

about halfway along Narai’s preserved main street.

8 Getting There & Away

Only futsū (local) trains stop at Narai, which is on the JR Chūō line. It takes

no more than an hour or three to see the sights, making it a neat day trip

from Matsumoto (¥580, 50 minutes), but you could easily pass a peaceful

evening here. From Nagoya, change trains at Kiso-Fukushima (¥410, 25

minutes).

HIDA REGION 飛騨地域

Visitors flock to the dramatic mountains of the Hida region (飛騨地域) for

their delightful onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring inns); the World

Heritage–listed villages of the Gokayama District, famed for their signature

gasshō-zukuri (thatched-roof) architecture; and the region’s centrepiece,

Takayama, one of Japan’s most likeable cities.

8 Getting There & Away

Located in the northernmost pocket of Gifu Prefecture, the Hida region is

accessed by tokkyū services from Nagoya to the south and Toyama to the

north, and also by buses. Both cities are linked to Tokyo by shinkansen lines.

8 Getting Around

Within Hida, there are two popular main routes, with frequent bus services

operated by a number of carriers.

The first connects Takayama to Okuhida Onsen-gō, Kamikōchi and

sections of the northern Alps, and Matsumoto. The second links Takayama

to Toyama/Kanazawa via the gasshō-zukuri villages of Shirakawa-gō and

Gokayama.

A wide range of bus tours is also available.

If you’re planning to explore the area in some depth, the five-day

Shōryūdō Highway Bus ticket (¥14,710), which must be purchased online or

from a travel agent outside Japan, covers the Hida region extensively and

includes travel to/from Nagoya, Matsumoto and Kanazawa.

You might benefit from purchasing the Nohi Bus (濃飛バス; %0577-32-1688;

www.nouhibus.co.jp/english) four-day Hida Open ticket (adult/child ¥10,290/5150), offering unlimited travel around the region. It’s one of a variety of discount

passes available.

A car can be useful for explorations within and around the region, but note

that in winter many roads become hazardous or impassable.

Takayama 飛騨高山

%0577 / POP 89,278

Takayama (officially known as Hida Takayama; 飛騨高山) has one of

Japan’s most atmospheric townscapes, with Meiji-era inns, hillside shrines

and a pretty riverside setting. It’s also home to one of the country’s best-

loved festivals. A trip here should be high on the list for anyone travelling in

Central Honshū.

The town’s present layout dates from the late 17th century and

incorporates a wealth of museums, galleries and temples for a place of its

compact size. Excellent infrastructure and welcoming locals seal the deal.

Although its recent rise in popularity can sometimes take the sparkle off

what was a little-known hamlet just a decade ago, there’s still plenty worth

visiting for – a stay during the shoulder seasons will afford a little more

tranquillity.

Takayama is easily explored on foot and is the perfect start or end point

for sojourns into the Hida region and the northern Japan Alps.

Takayama

1 Top Sights

1 Kusakabe Folk Museum

B1

1 Sights

2 Karakuri Museum

C1

3 Sakurayama Hachiman-gū

C1

4 Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall

C1

5 Takayama Museum of History & Art

C2

6 Takayama Shōwa-kan

C2

7 Takayama-jinya

B3

8 Takayama-jō

D3

9 Yoshijima Heritage House

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

10 Green Cooking School

B2

4 Sleeping

11 Guesthouse Tomaru

A2

12 Hida Takayama Temple Inn Zenkō-ji

B3

13 Honjin Hiranoya

C3

14 Oyado koto no Yume

A2

15 Rickshaw Inn

B2

16 Sumiyoshi Ryokan

B1

17 Tanabe Ryokan

B2

18 Yamakyū

D2

5 Eating

19 Ebisu-Honten

C2

20 Heianraku

B2

21 iCafe Takayama

A3

22 Kyōya

C1

23 Shōjin Ryōri Kakushō

C2

24 Takumi-ya

C2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

25 Bols

B2

26 Red Hill Pub

B2

7 Shopping

27 Jinya-mae Asa-ichi

B3

28 Miya-gawa Asa-ichi

B2

8 Information

29 Hida Takayama Tourist Information Center

A3

8 Transport

30 Hara Cycle

B2

1 Sights

Most sights are clearly signposted in English and are within walking

distance of the train station, which sits between the main streets of

Kokubunji-dōri and Hirokōji-dōri. Both run east and cross the Miya-gawa,

where they become Yasugawa-dōri and Sanmachi-dōri, respectively.

Once across the river you’re in the middle of the infinitely photogenic

Sanmachi-suji district, which is made up of three main streets (Ichino-machi,

Nino-machi and Sanno-machi). Among the immaculately preserved furui

machinami (古い町並み; old private houses) are sake breweries, cafes and

retailers. Sake breweries here are designated by spheres of cedar fronds

hanging above their doors; some are open to the public in January and early

February, but most sell their brews year-round.

Southeast of Sanmachi-suji, the Teramachi district has over a dozen

temples and shrines you can wander around before taking in the greenery of

Shiroyama-kōen. Various trails lead through the park and up the

mountainside to the ruins of the castle, Takayama-jō ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 高

山城跡; Shiroyama-kōen).

o Kusakabe Folk Museum

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日下部民藝館, Kusakabe Mingeikan; %0577-32-0072; 1-52 Ōjin-machi; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-4.30pm Mar-Nov, to 4pm Wed-Mon Dec-Feb)

This merchant and moneychanger’s house, dating from the 1890s,

showcases the striking craftsmanship of traditional Takayama carpenters.

Inside is a collection of folk art. Rumour has it that a Rockefeller tried to buy

the property after WWII; his offer was politely declined.

Karakuri Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 飛騨高山獅子会館·からくりミュージアム; %0577-32-0881;

www.takayamakarakuri.jp; 53-1 Sakura-machi; adult/child ¥600/400; h9am-4.30pm) On display here are over 300 shishi (lion) masks, instruments and drums

related to festival dances. The main draw is the twice-hourly puppet show

where you can see the mechanical karakuri ningyō (marionettes) in action.

Hida Takayama Museum of Art

MUSEUM

(飛騨高山美術館, Hida Takayama Bijutsukan; %0577-35-3535; www.htm-museum.co.jp; 1-

124-1 Kamiokamoto-chō; adult/child ¥1300/800; h9am-5pm)

Lovers of art-nouveau and art-deco glassware and furniture will appreciate

this large private gallery set back from town with a ritzy cafe, its own

London Bus shuttle (ask at the Tourist Information Center) and a spectacular

glass fountain by René Lalique.

Takayama Shōwa-kan

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高山昭和館; %0577-33-7836; www.takayamashowakan.com; 6

Shimoichino-machi; adult/child ¥800/500; h9am-6pm)

This nostalgia bonanza from the Shōwa period (1926–89) focuses on 1955 to

1965, a time of great optimism between Japan’s postwar malaise and the

1980s economic boom. Lose yourself in the delightful mishmash, from

movie posters to cars and everything in between, lovingly presented in a

series of themed rooms.

Hida Folk Village

MUSEUM

(飛騨の里, Hida-no-sato; %0577-34-4711; www.hidanosato-tpo.jp; 1-590 Kamiokamoto-chō; adult/child ¥700/200; h8.30am-5pm)

The sprawling, open-air Hida-no-sato is a highly recommended half-day trip.

It features dozens of traditional houses and buildings, which were

dismantled at their original sites throughout the region and rebuilt here.

Well-presented displays offer the opportunity to envision rural life in

previous centuries. During clear weather, there are good views of the Japan

Alps. To get here, hire a bicycle or catch a bus from Takayama bus station

(¥210, 10 minutes); be sure to check return bus times.

Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高山屋台会館, Takayama Yatai-kaikan; %0577-32-5100; 178 Sakuramachi; adult/child ¥900/450; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb)

A rotating selection of four of the 23 multitiered yatai (floats) used in

Takayama Matsuri can be appreciated here. These spectacular creations,

some dating from the 17th century, are prized for their flamboyant carvings,

metalwork and lacquerware. Some floats feature karakuri ningyō

(marionettes) that perform amazing feats at the hands of of eight

accomplished puppeteers manipulating 36 strings.

The museum is on the grounds of the stately Sakurayama Hachiman-gū

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 桜山八幡宮; %0577-32-0240; www.hidahachimangu.jp/english; 178

Sakura-yama) F, which presides over the festival.

Takayama-jinya

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高山陣屋; %0577-32-0643; 1-5 Hachiken-machi; ¥430; h8.45am-4.30pm Sep-Jul, to 6pm Aug)

These sprawling grounds south of Sanmachi-suji house the only remaining

prefectural office building of the Tokugawa shogunate, originally the

administrative centre for the Kanamori clan. The present main building dates

back to 1816 and was used as local-government offices until 1969. There’s

also a rice granary, a garden and a torture chamber with explanatory detail.

Free guided tours in English are available (reservations advised).

Yoshijima Heritage House

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉島家, Yoshijima-ke; %0577-32-0038; 1-51 Ōjin-machi; adult/child

¥500/300; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Wed-Sun Dec-Feb)

Design buffs shouldn’t miss Yoshijima-ke , well documented in architectural

publications. Lack of ornamentation allows you to focus on the spare lines,

soaring roof and skylight.

Takayama Museum of History & Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 飛騨高山まちの博物館, Hida-Takayama Machi no Hakubutsukan;

%0577-32-1205; 75 Kamiichino-machi; hmuseum 9am-7pm, garden 7am-9pm) F

Not to be confused with the Hida Takayama Museum of Art, this free

museum is situated around pretty gardens and features 14 themed exhibition

rooms relating to local history, culture, literature and the arts.

C Courses

Green Cooking School

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577-32-9263; www.green-cooking.com; 78 Shimo-sanno-machi; classes

¥6000-6500)

It’s so nice to discover a Japanese cooking school for foreign visitors in

Takayama! Learn about the basics of Japanese cooking, then dine on your

handiwork. Two days’ notice and a minimum of two participants are

required for classes to proceed.

z Festivals & Events

Takayama Matsuri

PARADE

One of Japan’s great festivals, the Takayama Matsuri is in two parts. On 14

and 15 April there’s the Sannō Matsuri, when a dozen decorated yatai

(floats) are paraded through the town. Hachiman Matsuri, on 9 and 10

October, is a slightly smaller version.

In the evenings, the floats, with their carvings, dolls, colourful curtains

and blinds, are decked out with lanterns and the procession is accompanied

by sacred music.

4 Sleeping

If visiting during festival times, book accommodation months in advance

and expect to pay a 20% premium. The Ryokan Hotel Association

(www.takayamaryokan.jp) can assist with lodging enquiries.

Guesthouse Tomaru

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 飛騨高山ゲストハウスとまる; %0577-62-9260;

www.hidatakayama-guesthouse.com; 6-5 Hanasato-machi; dm ¥2500, s & d ¥7000, tr ¥9000; aiW) Visitors love the friendly homestay vibe of this small, centrally located

guesthouse. Pleasant rooms with homely touches are kept spotlessly clean.

There’s free wi-fi and a shared kitchen. The owner, who speaks excellent

English, has just opened an annexe seven minutes’ walk away with similar

rates (visit the website for details).

o Sumiyoshi Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 寿美吉旅館; %0577-32-0228; www.sumiyoshi-ryokan.com; 4-21 Honmachi; s/d from ¥9000/12,000; piW)

The kind owners of this delightfully antiquey inn, set in a Meiji-era

merchant’s house, have been welcoming guests from abroad for years. Some

rooms have river views, and the common areas feature the family’s

collection of antique samurai armour. One room has a private bath. Add

¥4000 per person to include dinner and breakfast. Great location and value.

Hagi Takayama

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(萩高山; %0577-32-4100; www.takayama-kh.com; 280 Hachiman-machi; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥9000; paW)

This elevated hotel on the immediate outskirts of downtown has wonderful

views from all rooms and delightful communal bathing areas. Rooms in the

main wing were refurbished most recently. Expect traditional service, fine

local cuisine and a wonderful green location in the hills above Takayama,

which makes it ideal for those with a car (parking in the town below can be

tricky).

Honjin Hiranoya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本陣平野屋; %0577-34-1234; www.honjinhiranoya.co.jp; 1-5 Honmachi; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥12,000; paW)

For a ryokan experience in a business-hotel setting, choose the contemporary

elegance of the executive rooms in the Kachoan wing (from ¥25,000 per

person including meals), which also features four newly refurbished suites.

Otherwise opt for a river-view room in the Bekkan (Annexe) wing. There’s a

free shuttle bus from the train station, or it’s a 10-minute walk. Service

standards are high.

Rickshaw Inn

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 力車イン; %0577-32-2890; www.rickshawinn.com; 54 Suehiro-chō; tw from ¥11,900, s without bathroom from ¥4200; naiW)

Well positioned on the fringe of Takayama’s entertainment district, this

consistent travellers’ favourite remains good value. There’s a range of room

types, a small kitchen, laundry facilities and a cosy lounge. The friendly

English-speaking owners are fonts of information about Takayama.

Breakfast is an extra ¥540.

Yamakyū

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山久; %0577-32-3756; www.takayama-yamakyu.com; 58 Tenshōji-machi; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥9500; piW)

Occupying a lovely hillside spot opposite Hokke-ji temple, Yamakyū is a 20-

minute walk from the train station. Inside, antique-filled curio cabinets,

clocks and lamps line the red-carpeted corridors. All 20 tatami rooms have a

sink and a toilet, and the common baths are of a high standard. Some English

is spoken.

This is an excellent choice for a ryokan experience without the expense.

o Oyado koto no Yume

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おやど古都の夢; %0577-32-0427; www.kotoyume-peace.com; 6-11

Hanasato-machi; r per person incl breakfast ¥15,000; aW)

You’ll be impressed by the friendly, professional staff at this wonderful

hybrid of a boutique hotel and a traditional ryokan, whose all-tatami rooms

are furnished with a stylish fusion of old and new. Be sure to book the indoor

rooftop kazoku-buro (family bath). Conveniently located near the train

station.

Hida Takayama Temple Inn Zenkō-ji

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 飛騨高山善光寺宿坊; %0577-32-8470;

www.takayamahostelzenkoji.com; 4-3 Tenman-machi; d from ¥28,000; pnW)

Good karma washes over this branch of Nagano’s famous Zenkō-ji, where

donations are accepted in return for accommodation. Private rooms are

generously proportioned and set around a courtyard garden. There’s a shared

kitchen and no curfew for respectful guests.

Tanabe Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館田邊; %0577-32-0529; www.tanabe-ryokan.jp; 58 Aioi-chō; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥20,000; naiW)

This smart ryokan has a central location, and its tiny, elderly proprietress is

worth a visit all on her own. All tatami rooms have an en-suite bath,

although the lovely common baths with their beamed ceilings are worth

enjoying. A sumptuous dinner of kaiseki-style Hida cuisine completes the

experience.

5 Eating

Heianraku

CHINESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平安楽; %0577-32-3078; 6-7-2 Tenman-machi; dishes from ¥740; h11.30am-1pm & 5-8pm Wed-Mon; v)

Atmospheric, inexpensive, welcoming and delicious are all words that spring

to mind when describing this wonderful second-generation eatery serving up

Chinese delights (including transcendent gyōza) in a traditional Japanese

shopfront on Kokubunji-dōri. Special diets catered to and English spoken.

iCafe Takayama

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.icafe-takayama.com; 1-22-11 Showa-machi; light meals from ¥500; h7.30am-7pm; W)

Run by the inspiring crew from Satoyama Experience in neighbouring Hida-

Furukawa, this new-in-2016 cafe in the slick Takayama Station is your one-

stop shop for all things Hida. It’s a great first port of call as you arrive in

town, offering tasty snacks, good coffee and healthy servings of expert local

knowledge. There’s free wi-fi and oodles of baggage storage.

Ebisu-Honten

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 恵比寿本店; %0577-32-0209; www.takayamaebisu.jp; 46 Kamini-no-

machi; noodle bowls from ¥880; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue; v)

These folks have been making teuchi (handmade) soba since 1898. Try the

zaru soba, which strips it bare so you can taste the flavour of the noodles.

The tororo nameko soba is also very good: noodles in a hot soup with boiled

mushroom and grated mountain potato. The building has an interesting red-

glass sign with white characters and a little roof on it.

o Sakurajaya

FUSION

¥ ¥

(さくら茶屋; %0577-57-7565; 3-8-14 Sowamachi; dinner courses from ¥3000; h11.30am-2pm &

6-10pm Thu-Tue; v)

Sakurajaya happens when you take a Japanese man to Germany, introduce

him to European culinary arts, hone his craft, then return him to the quiet

back lanes of Takayama. His artisanal creations draw from both German and

Japanese lines. There’s something for all palates and it’s well worth the

walk.

o Kyōya

SHOKUDO

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京や; %0577-34-7660; www.kyoya-hida.jp; 1-77 Ōjin-machi; mains ¥800-5200; h11am-10pm Wed-Mon)

This Takayama institution specialises in regional dishes such as hoba-miso

(sweet miso paste grilled on a magnolia leaf) and Hida-gyū (beef) soba. Sit

on tatami mats around long charcoal grills, under a dark-timber cathedral

ceiling. It’s on a corner, by a bridge over the canal. Look for sacks of rice

over the door.

Takumi-ya

BARBECUE

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 匠家; %0577-36-2989; 2 Shimo-ni-no-machi; mains downstairs ¥680-980, upstairs from ¥1500; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue)

Hida-gyū (Hida beef) on a burger budget. Adjacent to Takumi-ya’s butcher

shop is a casual restaurant specialising in ramen in beef broth and Hida gyū-

don (beef and onion over rice). The upstairs restaurant serves yakiniku

(Korean-style barbecue).

Shōjin Ryōri Kakushō

VEGETARIAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 精進料理角正; %0577-32-0174; 2-98 Babamachi; kaiseki dinner courses per person from ¥13,000; h11.30am-1.30pm & 5-7pm; v)

Experience the unique Japanese art of shōjinryōri, holistic vegetarian kaiseki

dining in an atmospheric building and garden that’s almost 200 years old,

surrounded by ancient temples and mountains beyond. Sound dreamy? If

you’re a fan of the genre, it really, really is.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Red Hill Pub

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レッド・ヒル; %0577-33-8139; 2-4 Sowa-chō; h7pm-midnight; W) You’ll feel like you’re walking into a friend’s living room in this cosy, dimly

lit basement bar. The hip and happy owner, Hisayo, deftly adjusts the vibe to

suit the patrons present. It’s sometimes soulful and smooth, sometimes

rocking and raucous. If it’s quiet and you’re alone, you’ll still have someone

fascinating to talk to – Hisayo speaks excellent English.

Bols

SPORTS BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577-35-1762; 72-1 Suehiro-machi; h9pm-2am Tue-Sun) There’s no cover charge at this friendly pub–sports bar with a great open

patio out front. It’s American-Euro styled but stocks a good selection of

Japanese beer.

7 Shopping

Takayama is renowned for arts and crafts. Look for ichii ittobori (yew

woodcarvings), shunkei lacquerware, and the rustic yamada-yaki and

decorative shibukusa-yaki styles of pottery. Between Sanmachi-dōri and

Yasugawa-dōri, near the Takayama Museum of History & Art, are plenty of

wonderful kobutsu (古物; antique) shops.

The city’s most ubiquitous souvenirs, however, are saru-bobo (monkey

babies). These little red dolls with pointy limbs and featureless faces recall

the days when grandmothers fashioned dolls for children out of whatever

materials were available.

DON’T MISS

TAKAYAMA’S MORNING MARKETS

Daily asa-ichi (morning markets) are a wonderful way to wake up and get a sense of the place.

The Jinya-mae Asa-ichi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 陣屋前朝市; www.jinya-asaichi.jp; 1-5

Hachiken-machi; h6am-noon) is in front of Takayama-jinya; the larger Miya-gawa Asa-ichi (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宮川朝市; www.asaichi.net; h7am-noon) runs along the east bank of the Miya-gawa, between Kaji-bashi and Yayoi-bashi. Stalls range from farm-fresh produce to

local arts and crafts. Autumnal apples are out of this world!

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (飛騨高山観光案内所; %0577-32-5328;

www.hida.jp/english; h8.30am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 6.30pm Apr-Oct) Directly in front of JR

Takayama Station, knowledgeable English-speaking staff dispense maps in

English and other languages, and a wealth of pamphlets on sights,

accommodation, special events and regional transport. Staff are unable to

assist with accommodation reservations.

Free wi-fi is available for visitors throughout the downtown area. Check

in with the TIC upon arrival for the wi-fi password, which gets you access

for one week.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Nōhi Bus operates highway bus services between Takayama and Tokyo’s

Shinjuku Station (¥6690, 5½ hours, several daily; reservations required),

Matsumoto (¥3190, 2½ hours) and Kanazawa (¥3390, 2¼ hours). Schedules

vary seasonally and some routes don’t run at all during winter, when many

roads are closed.

TRAIN

From Tokyo or cities to the south (Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Fukuoka),

Takayama can be reached by catching a frequent shinkansen service to

Nagoya, then connecting with the JR Takayama line ( tokkyū ¥5510, 2½

hours).

Another option from Tokyo is to pick up the JR Takayama line from its

northern terminus in Toyama (¥12,210, 1½ hours). Get to Toyama on the

shiny, new-in-2015 Hokuriku shinkansen: the trains are fabulous.

Either way, the mountainous ride along the Hida-gawa is spectacular.

8 Getting Around

Most sights in Takayama can be covered easily on foot. You can amble from

the train station to Teramachi in about 20 minutes. Takayama is bicycle

friendly, but rentals can be expensive. Try Hara Cycle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ハ

ラサイクル; %0577-32-1657; 61 Suehiro-chō; 1st hour ¥300, additional hour ¥200, per day

¥1300; h9am-8pm Wed-Mon). Some lodgings lend bikes for free.

DON’T MISS

BEST ONSEN

A Nakabusa Onsen

A Takaragawa Onsen

A Ōshirakawa Rotemburo

A Awanoyu

A Karukaya Sansō

Hida-Furukawa 飛騨古川

%0577 / POP 24,726

Just 15 minutes by train from Takayama, Hida-Furukawa (飛騨古川) is a

sleepy riverside town with a friendly, ageing population eager to preserve

their local history and culture. Photogenic streetscapes, peaceful temples and

interesting museums are framed by the dramatic Hida mountains. Each April

the town comes to life for the Furukawa Matsuri.

Five minutes’ walk from JR Hida-Furukawa Station, Seto-kawa &

Shirakabe-dōzō (瀬戸川と白壁土蔵街) is a lovely, historic canal district

with white-walled shops, storehouses, private homes and carp-filled

waterways. Across the canal, Ichino-machi is sprinkled with woodworking

shops, sake breweries (marked by spheres of cedar fronds above the

entrance) and traditional storehouses.

T Tours

o Satoyama Experience

CULTURAL

(%0577-73-5715; https://satoyama-experience.com; 8-11 Nino-machi; half-day tours from ¥4900; h9am-6pm)

The fantastic crew at Satoyama Experience are eager to introduce you to

their beloved region, culture and people. Small-group cycling tours include a

friendly, English-speaking guide, mountain-bike rental and insurance. A

variety of tours (including walking) cater to different levels of fitness, but all

capture the spirit and scenery of Hida. Highly recommended.

The team can also connect you with some unique, traditional

accommodation (for longer stays) in town and around – just ask.

z Festivals & Events

Furukawa Matsuri

PARADE

(古川祭り; h19 & 20 Apr)

Furukawa Matsuri – informally known as Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Festival)

– consists of parades of yatai (festival floats). The highlight is an event

known as Okoshi Daiko: on the night of 19 April, squads of boisterous

young men, dressed in fundoshi (loincloths) and fuelled by sake, parade

through town. They compete to place small drums atop a stage bearing a

giant drum.

OK, it’s not naked naked, but you can see how the festival got its

nickname.

5 Eating

Ichino-machi Cafe

CAFE

¥

(壱之町珈琲店; %0577-73-7099; 1-12 Ichinomachi; cakes from ¥400; h11am-5pm Wed-Mon;

W)

Chiffon cake, melon bread and local Hida-beef curry are all items you might

find on the menu at this handsome cafe within a restored traditional machiya

(merchant house). Free wi-fi is a bonus.

8 Information

There’s a Tourist Information Center at the bus station with some English

maps and leaflets, though little English is spoken.

8 Getting There & Around

Hida-Furukawa is serviced by the tokkyū (limited express) Hida trains

between Nagoya (¥5510, 2¾ hours) and Toyama (¥1490, 1¾ hours).

Local trains run frequently between Hida-Furukawa and Takayama, three

stops south (¥240, 15 minutes).

From the train station it’s easy to stroll around central Furukawa, or you

can hire bikes at nearby Miyagawa Taxi (宮川タクシー古川営業所; %0577-

73-2321; 10-41 Furukawa-cho; bicycle rental per hour ¥200) or take a tour with Satoyama

Experience.

Okuhida Onsen-gō 奥飛騨温泉郷

Meaning ‘deep Hida hot springs’, Okuhida Onsen-gō – comprising the

villages of Hirayu Onsen, Fukuji Onsen, Shin-Hirayu Onsen, Tochio Onsen

and Shin-Hotaka Onsen – has a tough battle with Shirakawa-gō for being the

jewel in Hida’s crown. Certainly it’s where you’ll find some of the loveliest

onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring inns) and alpine scenery in all of Japan.

It’s impossible to compare the two contenders, and you’d be well advised

to visit as much of the Hida Region as you can, but if time is limited it’s well

worth taking the journey deep into the mountains to spend a tranquil evening

here. Of the five villages, Hirayu, Fukuji and Shin-Hotaka Onsen have the

most to offer visitors, by way of their wonderful ryokan. If the weather’s

clear, take a ride on the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Some of Japan’s most beautiful and peaceful onsen ryokan are found in the

area’s five villages: almost all are expensive, but they’re worth every yen.

There are very few cafes and restaurants in these remote communities;

most visitors dine on sumptuous kaiseki at their ryokan.

8 Getting There & Away

This remote alpine region can only be accessed by road; routes can become

treacherous or impassable in winter. Bus services from Matsumoto are

operated by Alpico, those from Takayama by Nōhi Bus.

If you don’t get carsick and aren’t scared of heights, consider renting a car

in Takayama or Matsumoto for greater freedom to explore. However, self-

driving is not recommended in winter.

Hirayu Onsen

%0578

Hirayu Onsen (平湯温泉) is a hub for bus transport and the best base for day

trips to Kamikōchi, neighbouring Shirahone and Fukuji Onsen, and the Shin-

Hotaka Ropeway. There’s a pleasant, low-to-the-ground cluster of onsen

lodgings, about half of which open for day bathers. Even the bus station has

a rooftop rotemburo (outdoor bath; ¥600).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hirayu has a higher concentration of accommodation than elsewhere in the

Alps, save for Kamikōchi. It’s a good place to base yourself if you’re a

single traveller, you’re on a budget or you can’t get a room in the region’s

more famous ryokan.

There are a few basic eateries in the village and around the bus station, but

not all tend to be open on the same days.

Hirayu Camping Ground

CAMPGROUND

¥

(平湯キャンプ場; %0578-89-2610; www.hirayu-camp.com; 768-36 Hirayu; campsites per

adult/child ¥600/400, bungalows from ¥5800, parking from ¥1000, hiking fee ¥300; hlate Apr-Oct;

p)

To reach the small Hirayu Camping Ground, turn right from the bus station –

it’s about 700m ahead, on the left.

Hirayu-no-mori

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(ひらゆの森; %0578-89-3338; www.hirayunomori.co.jp; 763-1 Hirayu; r per person incl 2 meals

¥7500; pW)

Practically in its own forest uphill from the bus station, this sprawling onsen

ryokan (traditional hot-spring inn) boasts 16 rotemburo (outdoor baths), plus

indoor and private baths. After 9pm baths are exclusively for overnight

guests. Rooms are Japanese style, and meals are hearty and local.

Miyama Ouan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(深山桜庵; %0578-89-2799; www.hotespa.net/hotels/miyamaouan; 229 Hirayu; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥17,000; paW)

This recently built chain ryokan has traditional service, modern technology

and intimate personal touches. Seventy-two rooms in a variety of sizes and

styles are beautifully finished with cypress woods and chic design – all have

private facilities. The private kazoku-buro (family use) rotemburo is a little

piece of heaven. Staff will even collect you from the bus station.

DON’T MISS

HIDA CUISINE

Hida’s culinary fame rests in Hida-gyū (Hida beef), hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled at the

table on a magnolia leaf) and soba, but you’ll find a wealth of seasonal local produce used in a

variety of cooking in the area.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (観光案内所; %0578-89-3030; 763-191 Hirayu;

h9.30am-5.30pm) Opposite the bus station; has leaflets and maps, and can book

accommodation. Little English is spoken.

8 Getting There & Away

Nōhi operates regular express buses that stop at Hirayu Onsen, which is

almost midway between Takayama (¥1820, one hour) and Matsumoto

(¥3190, 1½ hours).

Buses between Takayama and Shin-Hotaka Onsen also stop at Hirayu

Onsen.

Fukuji Onsen 福地温泉

%0578

Tiny Fukuji Onsen (福地温泉), a short ride north of Hirayu Onsen, follows

a steep hill. The site has beautiful views and a handful of outstanding baths.

Otherwise, there’s not even a village here.

2 Activities

Mukashibanashi-no-sato (Isurugi-no-yu)

ONSEN

(昔ばなしの里·石動の湯; %0578-89-2793; 110 Fukuji Onsen; bath ¥500; h10am-4pm Thu-

Tue)

This restaurant-onsen is set back from the street in a traditional farmhouse

with fine indoor and outdoor baths, free on the 26th of each month. Out front

is an unmissable vintage knick-knack shop adorned with Shōwa-era movie

posters and advertisements. If travelling by bus, get off at Fukuji-Onsen-

Kami stop.

4 Sleeping

o Yumoto Chōza

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(湯元長座; %0578-89-0099; www.cyouza.com; 786 Fukuji; r per person with 2 meals from

¥19,000; pa)

Opposite Fukuji-Onsen-shimo bus stop, the entrance to Yumoto Chōza is

reached by a rustic covered walkway, as if to take you back in time. Bold,

dark woods punctuate the handsome traditional architecture. Half of the 32

rooms have en suites and irori (fireplaces), and there are five indoor baths

and two stunning rotemburo. Reservations essential.

Day visitors can bathe between 2pm and 6pm for ¥750.

Yamazato-no-iori Soene

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(山里のいおり 草円; %0578-89-1116; www.soene.com; 831 Fukuji Onsen; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥19,000; pW)

Atmosphere abounds here: this rustic ryokan is more than 100 years old. Its

indoor and outdoor baths are absolutely delightful, as are the views. Rooms

are spacious and have an air of romance. Delicious kaiseki is served in the

dining room. A little English is spoken and there’s wi-fi in the lobby.

Open year-round, this is one for all seasons.

8 Getting There & Away

By bus from Hirayu Onsen, you can get off at the Fukuji-Onsen-Kami stop

and walk downhill to check out the ryokan, then pick up the bus to return to

Hirayu or travel onward to Shirahone Onsen.

Shin-Hotaka Onsen 新穂高温泉

%0578

The delightful sleepy hollow of Shin-Hotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉) is famed

for the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway, Japan’s longest, one of the largest rotemburo

in the country, and its handful of magical lodgings, including an utterly

lovable riverside onsen ryokan.

2 Activities

o Shin-Hotaka Ropeway

CABLE CAR

(新穂高ロープウェイ; %0578-89-2252; www.shinhotaka-ropeway.jp; one-way/return

¥1600/2900; h8.30am-4.30pm)

From a starting elevation of 1308m, two cable cars whisk you to 2156m,

towards the peak of Nishi Hotaka-dake (2909m). Views from the top, from

observation decks and walking trails, are spectacular. In winter, snows can

be shoulder deep. In season, properly equipped hikers with ample time can

choose from several hikes beginning from the top cable-car station (Nishi

Hotaka-guchi).

The three-hour hike to Kamikōchi is much easier than going the other

way.

Shin-Hotaka-no-yu

ONSEN

(新穂高の湯; %0578-89-2458; Okuhida Onsengo Kansaka; h8am-9pm May-Oct) F

Exhibitionists will love this bare-bones konyoku (mixed-bathing) rotemburo

by the Kamata-gawa, visible from the bridge that passes over it. Entry is free

(or by donation). Enter through segregated change rooms, and emerge into a

single large pool. Women should bring their own modesty garment, and

don’t expect men to wear theirs. Be sure to mind your manners.

Nakazaki Sansou Okuhida-no-yu

ONSEN

(中崎山荘奥飛騨の湯; %0578-89-2021; 710 Okuhida Onsengo Kansaka; adult/child

¥800/400; h8am-8pm)

More than 50 years old but completely rebuilt in 2010, this facility

commands a spectacular vista of the mountains. The milky waters of its

large indoor baths and rotemburo do wonders for dry skin.

4 Sleeping

Kazeya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(風屋; %0578-89-0112; www.kazeyatakayamajapan.com; 440-1 Kansaka; r per person incl breakfast from ¥8000; paW)

Recently renovated, this gorgeous little 10-room traditional inn has

atmospheric rooms with private baths and two blissful private rotemburo.

Deluxe rooms have their own onsen and offer some of the best value in this

beautiful corner of rural Japan.

Karukaya Sansō

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(佳留萱山荘; %0578-89-2801; www.karukaya.co.jp; 555 Kansaka; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥13,000; paW)

The tatami rooms at this friendly riverside inn with lots of open space to

explore are clean, tidy and unexceptional, but for the better ones, which have

lovely views. The enormous konyoku rotemburo (mixed-bathing outdoor

baths), claimed to be the largest in Japan, are remarkable. However, add in

the sweeping mountain views and they’re quite extraordinary.

Campsites (adult/child ¥3000/1500) are available or you can come just to

use the rotemburo (¥600; 10am to 3pm).

o Yarimikan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(槍見舘; %0578-89-2808; www.yarimikan.com; Okuhida Onsen-gun Kansaka; r per person with

meals from ¥17,000; paW)

Yarimikan is a wonderfully traditional onsen ryokan on the Kamata-gawa,

with two indoor baths, eight riverside rotemburo (some available for private

use) and 15 rooms. Guests can bathe 24 hours a day (it’s stunning by

moonlight) and day visitors (¥600 including towel rental) are accepted

between 10am and 2pm. Cuisine features local Hida beef and grilled

freshwater fish.

It’s just off Rte 475, a few kilometres before the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway.

8 Information

Oku-Hida Spa Tourist Information Center (奥飛騨温泉郷観光案内所;

%0578-89-2614; h10am-5pm) On Hwy 471 before the bridge, as the road turns into

Hwy 475 towards the ropeway.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run from Takayama to Hirayu Onsen, then do a whistle-stop run to the

Shin-Hotaka Ropeway terminus (¥2160, 1½ hours) at the far end of Shin-

Hotaka Onsen.

From Matsumoto, an express bus to the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway terminus

(¥2880, two hours) transits Hirayu Onsen.

Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama 白川郷・五箇山

The remote, mountainous districts of Shirakawa-gō (白川郷) and

Gokayama, between Takayama and Kanazawa, are best known for

farmhouses in the thatched gasshō-zukuri style. They’re rustic and lovely

whether set against the vibrant colours of spring, draped with the gentle

mists of autumn, or peeking through a carpet of snow, and they hold a

special place in the Japanese heart.

Most of Shirakawa-gō’s sights are in Ogimachi, which has more tour

buses than thatch-roofed houses. The less crowded, more isolated villages of

Suganuma and Ainokura, in the Gokayama district of Toyama Prefecture,

have the most ambience; other sights are spread over many kilometres along

Rte 156. All three villages are Unesco World Heritage Sites.

Passionate debate continues around the impact tour buses have upon these

unique communities, and how best to mitigate disruption to local life. To

avoid the crowds, steer clear of weekends, holidays, and cherryblossom and

autumn-foliage seasons.

8 Sleeping & Eating

To best appreciate life here, stay overnight in a gasshō-zukuri inn.

Accommodation is basic and advance reservations are recommended.

Otherwise the area can be visited as a day trip from Takayama, Takaoka,

Toyama or Kanazawa.

There’s little in the way of dining options, save for a few touristy cafes in

the ‘day-tripper’ villages. Meals are generally provided by your

accommodation if you’re staying overnight.

8 Information

Be sure to bring enough cash – ATMs are sparse and credit cards rarely

accepted.

8 Getting There & Away

Access to the region is by road only. Self-driving is an increasingly popular

way to explore. Ogimachi (Shirakawa-gō) is a quick and easy drive from

Takayama if you have your own wheels. Beyond, the gasshō villages of

Gokayama are a bit more of a trek and generally require an onward

commitment towards the Sea of Japan, or that you approach from the north

(Toyama).

Frequent bus services are operated by Nōhi Bus (濃飛バス; %0577-32-1688;

www.nouhibus.co.jp/english), from Takayama, and Kaetsunou Bus (加越能バス;

%0766-22-4886; www.kaetsunou.co.jp), from Takaoka, and a plethora of day tours are

available, departing from Takayama, Takaoka, Toyama and Kanazawa.

In colder months, check conditions in advance with regional tourist

offices before setting out on any national roads.

GASSHŌ-ZUKURI ARCHITECTURE

Hida winters can be unforgiving, and its people braved the elements long before the advent of

propane heaters and 4WD vehicles. The most visible symbol of their adaptability is gasshō-

zukuri architecture, as seen in the steeply slanted, straw-roofed homes that dot the regional

landscape.

Sharply angled roofs prevent snow accumulation, a serious concern in an area where most

mountain roads close from December to April. The name gasshō comes from the Japanese

word for prayer, because the shape of the roofs was thought to resemble a pair of steepled

hands. Gasshō buildings often feature pillars crafted from stout cedars to lend extra support.

The attic areas are ideal for silk cultivation. Larger gasshō-zukuri buildings were inhabited by

wealthy families, with up to 30 people under one roof. Peasant families lived in huts so small

that today they’d only be considered fit for use as tool sheds.

The art of gasshō-zukuri construction is dying out. Most remaining buildings have been

relocated to folk villages, including Hida-no-sato and those at Ogimachi (合掌造り民家園,

Gasshō-zukuri Minka-en; %05769-6-1231; www.shirakawago-minkaen.jp; 2499 Ogimachi;

adult/child ¥600/400; h8.40am-5pm Apr-Nov, 9am-6pm Fri-Wed Dec-Mar), Suganuma and

Ainokura. Homes that are now neighbours may once have been separated by several days of

travel on foot or by sled. These cultural-preservation efforts have made it possible to imagine a

bygone life in the Hida hills.

Ogimachi 荻町

%05769 / POP 1668

Ogimachi (荻町), the Shirakawa-gō region’s central and most accessible

settlement, has the largest concentration of gasshō-zukuri buildings – more

than 110. Sadly, mass tourism has turned the village into a rather dismal

theme park; the valley is overrun with tour buses and many inhabitants seem

hardened by the influx. Visit Ogimachi only if you’re very motivated to take

in gasshō-zukuri architecture but too pressed for time to travel to settlements

further into the Gokayama mountains.

Wada-ke (和田家; %05769-6-1058; adult/child ¥300/100; h9am-5pm) is Shirakawa-

gō’s largest gasshō house and a designated National Treasure. It once

belonged to a wealthy silk-trading family and dates back to the mid-Edo

period. Upstairs you’ll find silk-harvesting equipment and a valuable

lacquerware collection.

Generally, for tourism purposes the names Ogimachi and Shirakawa-gō

are interchangeable.

2 Activities

Ōshirakawa Rotemburo

ONSEN

(大白川露天風呂; %05769-6-1311; ¥300; h8.30am-5pm mid-Jun–Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug)

This tiny, middle-of-nowhere onsen is 40km from Ogimachi, along a

mountainous winding road with blind curves that’s impassible much of the

year. There’s no public transport, which is part of the charm, as are the views

of Lake Shiramizu. Getting here from Ogimachi takes at least 1½ hours and

requires determination and a car, or a taxi and lots of cash.

4 Sleeping & Eating

For online reservations at one of Ogimachi’s many gasshō inns, try

www.japaneseguesthouses.com. Rates include two meals. Expect a nightly

heating surcharge (¥400 and up) during cold weather.

Shirakawa-gō-no-yu

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(白川郷の湯; %05769-6-0026; www.shirakawagou-onsen.jp; 337 Ogimachi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥13,000; aW)

Day bathers (adult/child ¥700/300) at the town’s only onsen can choose from

a sauna, a small rotemburo and a large communal bath from 10am to

9.30pm. Overnight guests can enjoy the facilities without the crowds.

Pleasant, modern tatami rooms have shared facilities; the more expensive

rooms have private bathrooms. Western-style twin rooms are also available

but lack appeal.

Magoemon

INN

¥ ¥

(孫右ェ門; %05769-6-1167; 360 Ogimachi; r per person incl 2 meals & without bathroom from

¥10,000; paW)

This building is 300 years old and oozes history and charm – great for an

authentic and atmospheric retreat. The friendly family owners speak no

English and appreciate your efforts to communicate in Japanese. Meals are

served around the handsome irori (hearth). Three of the six large rooms face

the river.

Kōemon

INN

¥ ¥

(幸エ門; %05769-6-1446; 546 Ogimachi; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥10,000; paW)

In the centre of Ogimachi, Kōemon has five rooms with heated floors, dark-

wood panelling and shared bathrooms. The fifth-generation owner speaks

English well and his love of Shirakawa-gō is infectious.

Irori

SHOKUDO

¥

(いろり; %05769-6-1737; 374-1 Ogimachi; dishes from ¥432, set menu from ¥1296; h11am-3pm;

v)

At the entrance to Ogimachi, this bustling eatery serves regional specialities

such as hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled at the table on a magnolia leaf),

yaki-dofu (fried tofu) and soba or udon teishoku (set meals). You can eat at

tables or around the irori.

Ochūdo

CAFE

¥

(落人; %090-5458-0418; 792 Ogimachi; lunch ¥1000; h10.30am-5pm)

Set around a large irori in a 350-year-old gasshō house, this delightful cafe

serves curry rice, tea and coffee.

8 Information

Pick up free multilingual maps at the Tourist Information Center (白川郷

観光協会; %05769-6-1013; 2495-3 Ogimachi; h9am-5pm) by the main bus stop outside

the Folk Village.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Nōhi Bus and its affiliates operate seven or more buses daily between

Ogimachi (Shirakawa-gō) and Takayama (one way/return ¥2470/4420, 50

minutes), Kanazawa (¥1850/3290, 1½ hours) and Toyama (¥1700/3060, 1¾

hours). Some buses require a reservation. Weather delays and cancellations

are possible between December and March.

Kaetsunou Bus operates at least four buses a day between Shin-Takaoka

Station on the JR Hokuriku line and Ogimachi (¥1800, two hours), stopping

at all major sights.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

It’s an easy drive on the Tokai-Hokuriku expressway from Takayama to

Shirakawa-gō (Ogimachi). Parking in the official Ogimachi car park starts at

an eye-watering ¥1000; best to find a spot just before you reach it and walk

down the hill.

From June through mid-November, the Hakusan White Rd (formerly the

Hakusan Super-Rindō) is a 34km stretch of scenic toll road (one way ¥1600)

between Hakusan and Ogimachi.

Gokayama 五箇山

%0763

North along the Shōkawa-gawa, in Toyama Prefecture, Gokayama (五箇山)

is isolated and sparsely populated. Although there are a number of gasshō-

zukuri buildings scattered along Rte 156, the villages of Suganuma and

Ainokura have the best examples. To get here, drive north on Rte 156 from

Shirakawa-gō. You’ll reach Suganuma first, then Ainokura.

1 Sights

Down a steep hill off Rte 156, 15km north of Ogimachi, Suganuma (菅沼)

is a pretty riverside collection of nine gasshō-zukuri houses and a World

Heritage Site. It feels more like a residential museum than a working village,

and there’s no accommodation here.

Enchanting World Heritage–listed Ainokura (相倉) is the most

impressive of Gokayama’s villages. The valley is home to more than 20

gasshō buildings amid splendid mountain views. The village’s remote

location attracts fewer tour buses than Ogimachi, so it’s much quieter. If you

want to really step back in time and hear the sound of your thoughts, spend a

night here – it’s magical as afternoon turns into evening.

Murakami-ke

HISTORIC BUILDING

(村上家; %0763-66-2711; www.murakamike.jp; 742 Kaminashi, Kaminashi; adult/child ¥300/150; h8.30am-5pm Wed-Mon Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Wed-Mon Dec-Mar)

Between Suganuma and Ainokura, in the hamlet of Kaminashi, you’ll find

Murakami-ke, one of the oldest gasshō houses in the region (dating from

1578). It’s now a small museum; the proud owner delights in showing

visitors around and might sing you some local folk songs. Close by, the main

hall of Hakusan-gū shrine dates from 1502. It’s an Important Cultural

Property.

Gokayama Washi-no-sato

GALLERY

(五箇山和紙の里; %0763-66-2223; www.gokayama-washinosato.com; 215 Higashinakae;

h9am-5pm)

North of Ainokura on Rte 156 you’ll find this roadside attraction, which

explains the art of making washi (handmade paper) and gives you the chance

to try making some yourself (from ¥500; reservations required, limited

English is spoken). There’s also a gift shop.

Ainokura Minzoku-kan

MUSEUM

(相倉民族館; %0763-66-2732; 352 Ainokura, Ainokura; ¥210; h8.30am-5pm)

Stroll through the village to this interesting folklore museum, with displays

of local crafts and paper. The museum occupies two buildings, the former

residences of the prominent Ozaki and Nakaya families.

Gokayama Minzoku-kan

MUSEUM

(五箇山民俗館; %0763-67-3652; 436 Suganuma, Suganuma; adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-4pm)

You can see items from traditional life and displays illustrating gunpowder

production, for which the area was once famed, at this folklore museum.

2 Activities

Kuroba Onsen

ONSEN

(くろば温泉; %0763-67-3741; 1098 Kamitaira-hosojima, Nanto; adult/child ¥600/300; h10am-

9pm Wed-Mon)

About 1km north of Suganuma along Rte 156, Kuroba Onsen is a complex

of indoor-outdoor baths with a lovely view. Its low-alkaline waters are good

for fatigue and sore muscles.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Remote Ainokura is a great place for a gasshō-zukuri stay. Some

Japaneselanguage ability will help you with reservations and getting by.

Rates may be higher in winter due to a heating charge.

Yamashita-ya

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(山下や; %0763-77-3264; www.gokayamayamashitaya.com/english.html; 839 Kaimukura, Nanto;

dm/d/tr ¥3200/7500/9500; paW)

The friendly proprietress of this cosy guesthouse knows just what the

traveller wants after a long day: a cold beer while looking out over rice

paddies and mountains, a heater to take the high-altitude chill off, and a

discounted ticket to the nearest onsen. She also rents bicycles for ¥400 per

day.

Ainokura Campground

CAMPGROUND

¥

(五箇山国民休養地キャンプ場; %0763-66-2123; 611 Ainokura, Ainokura; per person

¥500; hmid-Apr–late Oct; p)

This lovely basic campground is about 1km from Ainokura.

Minshuku Chōyomon

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(民宿長ヨ門; %0763-66-2755; 418 Ainokura, Ainokura; per person incl 2 meals ¥9200; W)

You can’t get much more rustic than this 350-year-old place in the centre of

Ainokura village.

Minshuku Goyomon

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

(民宿五ヨ門; %0763-66-2154; www.goyomon.burari.biz; 438 Ainokura, Ainokura; per person incl 2 meals ¥9200; W)

This is a small, familyoriented homestay.

Matsuya

SOBA

¥ ¥

(まつや; 445 Ainokura, Ainokura; sets from ¥1400; p)

Truly delicious soba and tempura set-lunch menus in a gasshō-zukuri house

smack bang in the heart of Ainokura village. Try the house-made tofu, or the

mountain vegetables steamed in soy and sake.

8 Information

You’ll find the Tourist Information Center (五箇山観光総合案内所;

%0763-66-2468; www.gokayama-info.jp; 754 Kaminashi; h9am-5pm) for the Gokayama

district in the village of Kaminashi. Yukie speaks good English and is

extremely knowledgeable and passionate about the district.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Kaetsunou Bus operates at least four buses a day between Shin-Takaoka

Station on the JR Hokuriku shinkansen line and Ainokura (¥1000, 1½

hours), and then on to Suganuma (¥1200, 30 minutes) and Ogimachi (¥1800,

45 minutes). From the Ainokura-guchi bus stop it’s about a 400m uphill

walk to Ainokura before the descent into the village.

Some buses on the Kanazawa–Takayama route (via Ogimachi) operated

by Nōhi Bus stop in Suganuma. Nōhi Bus also offers day-return bus tours

of Shirakawa-gō and Ainokura (adult/child ¥6690/4420) from Takayama.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Ainokura (Gokayama) is directly accessible via the Tokai-Hokuriku

expressway from Takayama.

For slower, more scenic explorations, get off the expressway at the

Shirakawa-gō (Ogimachi) exit, then follow windy Rte 156 to the villages of

Gokayama at your own pace.

KANAZAWA & THE HOKURIKU COAST 金沢・

北陸

The Hokuriku (北陸) region stretches along the Sea of Japan coast,

encompassing Fukui, Ishikawa and Toyama Prefectures. The opening of the

Hokuriku shinkansen line in 2015 greatly improved access to the region, and

tourism is booming.

Kanazawa, in Ishikawa-ken (石川県), is the biggest draw. It was once the

power base of the feudal Maeda clan, and this legacy can still be seen in the

city’s traditional architecture, artisan workshops and famous garden. To the

north, the Noto Peninsula has sweeping seascapes and quiet fishing villages.

West is little Fukui-ken (福井県), with one of the world’s most influential

Zen centres, some pretty towns and fascinating architectural ruins.

Toyama-ken (富山県), at the eastern end, is a culinary and architectural

draw. Its bayfront capital city, Toyama, features seafood specialities renowned

throughout Japan. Neighbouring Takaoka is home to awesome National

Treasure Zuiryū-ji, a fusion of Buddhist architectural traditions.

For more information on the region, see www.hot-ishikawa.jp/english.

8 Getting There & Away

Kanazawa is the main transport hub for the Hokuriku area.

Useful regional airports include Komatsu Airport, west of Kanazawa,

Toyama Airport, and Noto Satoyama (Wajima) Airport (NTQ; %0768-26-2000;

www.noto-airport.jp), on the Noto Peninsula.

Frequent trains on the Hokuriku shinkansen line travel between Tokyo and

Kanazawa, via Toyama. The Hokuriku main line runs west from Kanazawa to

Fukui and on to Kyoto and Osaka.

8 Getting Around

A car is handy for exploring sights outside the larger cities. There are plenty of

car-rental agencies around JR Kanazawa station.

Hokutetsu Kankō (%076-237-5115; www.hokutetsu.co.jp/en) provides bus services within Kanazawa, around Ishikawa Prefecture and beyond. It has a variety of

discount bus passes; see the website for details, fares and timetables.

FERRIES FROM TSURUGA

From Tsuruga, a busy port and rail junction 60km south of Fukui city, Shin Nihonkai Ferry

Company (www.snf.jp) has daily sailings to Tomakomai, Hokkaidō (19½ hours nonstop, 30½

hours with stops, from ¥9970). Several of these stop en route at Niigata (¥5550, 12½ hours) and

Akita (¥7190, 20 hours). Buses timed to ferry departures serve Tsuruga-kō port from JR Tsuruga

Station (¥350, 20 minutes).

Kanazawa 金沢

%076 / POP 465,699

The array of cultural attractions in Kanazawa (金沢) make the city the

drawcard of the Hokuriku region and a rival to Kyoto as the historical jewel of

mainland Japan. Best known for Kenroku-en, a castle garden dating from the

17th century, it also boasts beautifully preserved samurai and geisha districts,

attractive temples, a wealth of museums and a wonderful market (and far fewer

tourists than Kyoto – for now). A two- or three-day stay is recommended to

take it all in.

History

During the 15th century Kanazawa was under the control of an autonomous

Buddhist government, ousted in 1583 by Maeda Toshiie, head of the powerful

Maeda clan. Kanazawa means ‘golden marsh’ – in its heyday the region was

Japan’s richest, producing about five million bushels of rice annually. This

wealth allowed the Maeda to patronise culture and the arts. Kanazawa remains

a national cultural hot spot.

An absence of military targets spared the city from destruction during

WWII. Its myriad historical and cultural sites are wonderfully preserved and

integrate neatly with the city’s contemporary architecture.

Kanazawa

1 Top Sights

1 DT Suzuki Museum

D7

2 Gyokusen Inmaru Garden

D5

3 Kenroku-en

D6

1 Sights

4 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

D6

5 Gyokusen-an Rest House

D5

6 Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Products & Crafts

E6

7 Kaikarō

F3

8 Kanazawa Castle Park

D5

9 Nagamachi Yūzen-kan

A5

10 Ōmi-chō Market

C3

11 Shima

F3

4 Sleeping

12 Asadaya Ryokan

C3

13 Holiday Inn ANA Kanazawa Sky

C3

14 Hotel Resol Trinity

C4

15 Kanazawa Hakuchōrō Hotel

E4

16 Minshuku Yōgetsu

F3

17 Pongyi

A3

18 Share Hotels Hachi

E3

5 Eating

19 Curio Espresso & Vintage Design

C3

20 Daiba Kanazawa Ekimae

B2

21 Forus

B1

22 Full of Beans

C7

23 Itaru Honten

C6

24 Janome-sushi Honten

C6

25 Kaiseki Tsuruko

B4

26 Kanazawa Todoroki-tei

E3

27 Restaurant Jiyūken

E3

Sentō

(see 10)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

28 Oriental Brewing

E3

29 Sturgis Rock Bar

B7

3 Entertainment

30 Ishikawa Prefectural Nō Theatre

E7

7 Shopping

31 Sakuda Gold Leaf Company

F3

8 Transport

32 Hokutetsu Rent-a-Cycle

A1

33 JR Kanazawa Station Rent-a-Cycle

A2

1 Sights

Kanazawa is a sprawling city with two almost parallel rivers traversing its core.

Most areas of interest are located a good distance from the impressive JR

Kanazawa Station area, where most visitors arrive. Since the arrival of the

Hokuriku shinkansen, this area has been abuzz with activity. The terminus of

the substantial regional bus network, which can at first seem a little confusing,

is also here. Have patience: you’ll orient yourself soon enough.

Heading south of the station along Hyakumangoku-dōri, you’ll reach

Kōrinbō (the shopping and business district) before arriving in Katamachi, by

the banks of the Sai-gawa; this is the place to eat, drink and be merry. If you’re

staying near the station, note that buses stop early in the evening and taxis back

from the action cost at least ¥1300. Tucked between Kōrinbō and the Sai-gawa

is the stately former samurai district of Nagamachi.

Teramachi and Nishi-chaya-gai are just over the bridge from Katamachi,

but the mainstay of sights, including Kanazawa Castle Park and Kenroku-en,

are to the east. To their north, on opposite sides of the Asano-gawa, lie the

pretty Kazuemachi-chaya-gai and Higashi-chaya-gai teahouse districts, in

the shadow of hilly Utatsuyama and its many temples. Heading west will loop

you back to the station, passing Ōmi-chō Market, a must-see.

o Kenroku-en

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 兼六園; %076-234-3800; www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kenrokuen/e; 1-1

Marunouchi; adult/child/senior ¥310/100/free; h7am-6pm Mar–mid-Oct, 8am-4.30pm mid-Oct–Feb)

This Edo-period garden draws its name ( kenroku means ‘combined six’) from a

renowned Sungdynasty garden in China that dictated six attributes for

perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and

broad views. Kenroku-en has them all. Arrive before the crowds.

It’s believed that the garden, originally belonging to an outer villa of

Kanazawa-jō, was developed from the 1620s to the 1840s and was so named in

1822. It was first opened to the public in 1871.

o DT Suzuki Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鈴木大拙館; %076-221-8011; www.kanazawamuseum.jp/daisetz; 3-4-20

Honda-machi; adult/child/senior ¥300/free/200; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

This spiritual museum is a tribute to Daisetsu Teitaro Suzuki, one of the

foremost Buddhist philosophers of our time. Published in Japanese and

English, Suzuki is largely credited with introducing Zen to the West. This

stunning concrete complex embodies the heart of Zen.

o Gyokusen Inmaru Garden

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 玉泉院丸庭園, Gyokusen Inmaru Teien; %076-234-3800;

www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kanazawajou/e/gyokusen-in; 1-1 Marunouchi; h7am-6pm) F

Adjacent to the Kanazawa Castle Park, this feudal pleasure garden was first

constructed in 1634 but abandoned in the Meiji era. Its five-year reconstruction

was completed in 2015. Features include a small waterfall, bridges and many

traditional elements. While the garden’s focal point is the Gyokusen-an Rest

House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 玉泉庵; %076-234-3800; 1-1 Marunouchi; tea ceremony ¥720; h7am-6pm Mar-15 Oct, 8am-5pm 16 Oct-Feb), it’s the overall picture of beauty and

refinement that impresses most. The garden and teahouse are illuminated

spectacularly on Friday and Saturday evenings between sunset and 9pm – have

your camera at the ready.

Myōryū-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(妙立寺; Ninja-dera; %076-241-0888; www.myouryuji.or.jp/en.html; 1-2-12 Nomachi; adult/child

¥1000/700; hby reservation only 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun)

Completed in 1643 in Teramachi, the temple was designed to protect its lord

from attack. It contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers,

concealed tunnels and trick doors. Contrary to popular belief, it has nothing to

do with ninja. Admission is by tour only (in Japanese with an English

guidebook). Phone for reservations with English-speaking staff.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金沢21世紀美術館; %076-220-2800; www.kanazawa21.jp; 1-2-1

Hirosaka; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 8pm Fri & Sat) F

A low-slung glass cylinder, 113m in diameter, forms the perimeter of this

contemporary gallery, which celebrated its 10th birthday in 2014. Museum

entry is free, but admission fees are charged for special exhibitions. Inside,

galleries are arranged like boxes on a tray. Check the website for event info and

fees.

Kaikarō

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 懐華樓; %076-253-0591; www.kaikaro.jp/eng/index.html; 1-14-8

Higashiyama; adult/child ¥750/500; h9am-5pm)

In Higashi-chaya-gai, Kaikarō is an early-19th-century geisha house refinished

with contemporary fittings and art, including a red-lacquered staircase.

Evening geisha performances include a short lecture in English by the

proprietor, followed by a demonstration of traditional party games by geisha

themselves. Performances last 1½ hours; tickets start at ¥6500.

Ōmi-chō Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 近江町市場; 35 Ōmi-chō; h9am-5pm) Between Kanazawa Station and Katamachi you’ll find this market, reminiscent

of Tokyo’s old Tsukiji market. A bustling warren of fishmongers, buyers and

restaurants, it’s a great place to watch everyday people in action or indulge in

the freshest sashimi and local produce. The nearest bus stop is Musashi-ga-

tsuji.

Kanazawa Castle Park

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金沢城公園, Kanazawa-jō Kōen; %076-234-3800; www.kanazawa-

tourism.com/eng/guide/guide1_1.php?no=2; 1-1 Marunouchi; buildings/grounds ¥310/free; hgrounds

7am-6pm Mar-15 Oct, 8am-5pm 16 Oct-Feb, castle 9am-4.30pm)

Originally built in 1580, this massive structure was called the ‘castle of 1000

tatami’ and housed the Maeda clan for 14 generations until it was destroyed by

fire in 1881. The elegant surviving gate, Ishikawa-mon (built in 1788),

provides a dramatic entry from Kenroku-en; holes in its turret were designed

for hurling rocks at invaders. Two additional buildings, the Hishi-yagura

(diamond-shaped turret) and Gojikken-nagaya (armoury), were reconstructed

using traditional means in 2001.

Shima

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 志摩; %076-252-5675; www.ochaya-shima.com; 1-13-21 Higashiyama; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-6pm)

An Important Cultural Asset, this well-known, traditional-style former geisha

house dates from 1820 and has an impressive collection of elaborate combs,

and picks for shamisen (three-stringed instruments resembling a lute or banjo).

T Tours

Kanazawa Walking Tours

WALKING

(%803 044 3191; www.kanazawa-tours.com; half-day tours from ¥3700)

KWT’s English-speaking guides get rave reviews from happy customers.

Public tours go ahead when a minimum of six people have booked; private

tours start at ¥22,000 per half day and are fully customisable.

z Festivals & Events

Hyakumangoku Matsuri

PARADE

(百万石まつり; hJun)

In early June Kanazawa’s main annual festival commemorates the first time the

region’s rice production hit one million koku (around 150,000 tonnes). There’s

a parade of townsfolk in 16th-century costumes, takigi nō (torch-lit

performances of nō drama), tōrō nagashi (lanterns floated down the river at

dusk) and a special chanoyu (tea ceremony). It’s held at Kenroku-en.

Kanazawa Film Festival

FILM

(かなざわ映画の会; www.eiganokai.com; hSep)

Kanazawa’s increasingly popular film festival screens an eclectic mix of

Japanese and foreign-language films.

DON’T MISS

HIGASHI-CHAYA-GAI

Just north of the Asano-gawa, Higashi-chaya-gai (Higashi Geisha District) is an enclave of narrow

streets established early in the 19th century for geisha to entertain wealthy patrons. The slatted

wooden facades of the geisha houses are romantically preserved. It’s very picturesque around

sunset, but you won’t be the only one snapping photos.

4 Sleeping

Beds near the station are cheaper, but you’ll have more fun staying in one of

the city’s unique neighbourhoods.

o Share Hotels Hachi

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5656-6916; www.thesharehotels.com; 3-18 Hashiba-cho; dm/s from

¥2100/8700; naW) F

Ecofriendly, communal, arty, funky – it’s hard to tell what’s hip and what’s

hype. Either way, this brilliantly located guesthouse will suit those who don’t

mind sharing facilities, enjoy the company of others and like reading Taschen

design books in their spare time. Woody dorms and quirky private rooms are

available and there’s a cafe on-site (show your room key for a 5% discount).

Pongyi

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ポンギー; %076-225-7369; www.pongyi.com; 2-22 Rokumai-machi; dm/s/d

¥3000/3500/7000; i)

Run by a friendly Japanese man who did a stint in Southeast Asia as a monk,

Pongyi is a charmingly renovated 140-year-old kimono shop alongside a canal.

Cosy dorms are located in an annexed vintage kura (mud-walled storehouse).

The private room is spacious and excellent value.

o Minshuku Yōgetsu

MINSHUKU

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 民宿陽月; %076-252-0497; 1-13-22 Higashiyama; r per person from ¥5000; na)

Located on the prettiest street in the picturesque Higashichaya district, this

200-year-old geisha teahouse has only three rooms and features a goemonburo

(cauldron-shaped bath). No English is spoken, but it’s perfect if tranquillity,

history and authenticity are what you’re after.

Hotel MyStays Premier Kanazawa

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(%076-290-5255; www.mystays.com/en/hotel/kanazawa/mystays-premier-kanazawa; 2-13-5 Hirooka; r

from ¥8600)

Spacious (guest rooms are 32 sq metres!), stylish, fresh and current: this tourist

hotel a stone’s throw from the station is a good-value choice. It has real king-

size beds, a gym, a laundry and an on-site cafe.

Hotel Resol Trinity

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルレソルトリニティ; %076-221-9629; www.resol-hotel.jp; 1-18

Musashi-machi; s/d from ¥6500/8200; aiW)

This lovely niche hotel is a breath of fresh air. Rooms have a splash of colour

and have been designed to make you feel comfortable in a compact space. The

hotel’s location is central to everything; you can walk to JR Kanazawa Station,

Katamachi and Kenroku-en in about 15 minutes.

Asadaya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浅田屋旅館; %076-231-2228; www.asadaya.co.jp/ryokan; 23 Jikkenmachi; per person incl 2 meals ¥46,000; aW)

Although more expensive than some of Japan’s most lauded onsen ryokan, and

without the views and outdoor baths, Asadaya’s exceptional service, attention

to detail and sublime kaiseki justify the rates. With only four rooms, the

conveniently located inn (opened in 1867) has more staff than guests, to ensure

your stay epitomises the Japanese art of hospitality.

Holiday Inn ANA Kanazawa Sky

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %076-233-2233; www.holidayinn.com; 15-1 Musashi-machi; s/d from

¥10,000/18,000; aW)

Centrally located between JR Kanazawa Station and the sights, across the road

from Ōmi-chō Market, this recently renovated hotel is an excellent choice, with

comfortable bedding and breathtaking views of Kanazawa and Hakusan

National Park beyond. It’s on top of the M’Za department store, whose

basement-level food court is all too convenient.

Kanazawa Hakuchōrō Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金沢白鳥路ホテル; %076-222-1212; www.sanraku.premierhotel-

group.com/kanazawa/en; 6-3 Marunouchi; s/tw from ¥14,000/20,000; pni)

This interesting hotel adjacent to Kanazawa Castle Park and near Higashi-

chaya-gai is quiet and removed from the action. Formal, Western-style rooms

are showing their age, but their generous dimensions compensate. There’s a

lovely lobby, a restaurant and common onsen. Free parking.

5 Eating

The shiny, architecturally stunning JR Kanazawa Station building is brimming

with eateries. Its neighbour, Forus department store (%076-265-8111;

www.forus.co.jp/kanazawa; 3-1 Horikawa Shin-machi; h11am-10pm), has excellent dining

floors, as does the basement of Meitetsu M’Za department store, opposite Ōmi-

chō Market with its fresh-from-the-boat restaurants. Otherwise, the locus of

nocturnal dining is found in the lanes of Kōrinbō and Katamachi.

Full of Beans

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; フルオブビーンズ; %076-222-3315; www.fullofbeans.jp; 41-1 Satomi-chō; meals from ¥850; h11.30am-3.30pm & 5-10pm Thu-Tue)

A variety of Japanese dishes and yōshoku (Westernstyle meals) are served at

this stylish cafe in the quieter backstreets of Katamachi – the website will give

you a sense of the vibe. It’s a good place to try inimitable Kanazawa speciality

hanton raisu: a bowl of rice topped with an omelette, fried seafood, ketchup

and tartare sauce (available at lunch).

Daiba Kanazawa Ekimae

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 台場金沢駅前店; %076-263-9191; Kanazawa Miyako Hotel 1F, 6-10

Konohana-machi; items from ¥460; h11am-3pm & 5pm-midnight)

This trendy spot in the Kanazawa Miyako Hotel building has a comprehensive

Japanese menu and a limited English one with all the Western favourites and

some local specialities. It’s a great place for your first izakaya experience: lots

of small plates and beer.

Curio Espresso & Vintage Design

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %076-231-5543; 1-13 Yasue-cho; sandwiches from ¥600; h9am-6pm Sat-Mon, from 8am Wed-Fri)

Brewing Seattle-style coffee that would satisfy even the most hardened coffee

snob, this sweet little cafe is a quaint spot to grab a break near the station. The

menu features Western favourites (including hummus and barbecue pulled

pork) you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in this part of Japan.

o Sentō

CHINESE

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 仙桃; %076-234-0669; 2F Ōmichō Ichiba, 88 Aokusa-machi; dishes from ¥650, set menus from ¥980; h11am-3pm & 5-10.30pm Wed-Mon)

Upstairs in Ōmi-chō Market, chefs from Hong Kong prepare authentic

Szechuan- and Hong Kong–style dishes (including dim sum) from scratch.

Delicious lunch and dinner set menus are excellent value. The spicy, salted

squid is exquisite, and the tantanmen (sesame-and-chilli ramen) will have you

coming back for a second bowl.

Itaru Honten

IZAKAYA

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いたる 本店; %076-221-4194; www.itaru.ne.jp/honten; 3-8 Kakinokibatake; sashimi for 2 from ¥2400; h5.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

One of Kanazawa’s favourite seafood izakaya (pubrestaurants) is as popular

with locals as it is with international visitors, so you may have to queue for a

spot. Expect superlative sushi and sashimi and daily specials based on the catch

of the day. There’s an English menu, and dinner sets start at ¥3000.

Janome-sushi Honten

SUSHI

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 蛇之目寿司本店; %076-231-0093; 1-1-12 Kōrinbō; set menu ¥3000, Kaga ryōri sets from ¥4400; hnoon-2pm & 5.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue)

Kanazawa institution Janome-sushi Honten has been known for sashimi and

Kaga cuisine since 1931. Dinner omakase (chef’s choice) menus start at ¥3000.

Restaurant Jiyūken

SHOKUDO

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レストラン自由軒; %076-252-1996; www.jiyuken.com; 1-6-6

Higashiyama; meals ¥700-1890; h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pm)

This shokudō (all-round, inexpensive restaurant) in the heart of Higashi-chaya-

gai has been serving yōshoku (Western food) – or at least Japanese takes on

Western food, like omelettes, hamburgers and curry rice – since 1909. Daily set

lunches (¥995) are good value.

Kanazawa Todoroki-tei

BISTRO

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金沢とどろき亭; %076-252-5755; 1-2-1 Higashiyama; plates from ¥1500; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6-11.30pm)

The art-deco, woody, candelit atmosphere of this Western-style bistro near

Higashi-chaya-gai is a big selling point. The Taisho-era (1912–26) building

with vaulted ceilings is a little rough around the edges, but that’s part of its

charm: it’s not too snooty. Eight-course dinners are good value, starting at

¥3500 per person.

o Kaiseki Tsuruko

JAPANESE

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 懐石 つる幸; %076-264-2375; www.turukou.com; 6-5 Takaoka-machi; lunch/dinner from ¥10,000/15,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

Kaiseki dining is a holistic experience of hospitality, art and originality. This

outstanding restaurant is a true gourmand’s delight, offering an experience

beyond what you might enjoy in a ryokan. Dress to impress. A ¥5000 lunch

course is available for groups of two or more.

DON’T MISS

KANAZAWA SPECIALITIES

Seafood is the staple of Kanazawa’s Kaga ryōri (Kaga cuisine); even the most humble train-station

bentō (boxed meal) usually features some type of fish. Oshi-zushi, a thin layer of fish pressed atop

vinegar rice, is said to be the precursor to modern sushi. Another favourite is jibuni, flour-coated

duck or chicken stewed with shiitake and green vegetables.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Sturgis Rock Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スタージス; %076-262-9577; 4F Kinrin Bldg, 1-7-15 Katamachi; h8pm-3am)

An original Kanazawan institution. With live rock bands and every manner of

everything hanging from the ceiling, this place’ll make you feel as though

you’re on a trip in San Francisco with a bunch of Japanese tourists, paying

homage to the gods of rock and roll.

Oriental Brewing

BREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %076-255-6378; www.orientalbrewing.com; 3-2-22 Higashiyama; h11am-10pm)

You can’t miss this trendy brewhouse at the entrance to Higashi-chaya-gai: it’s

always humming with Japanese and international guests, who love the mellow,

friendly vibe and the original yeasty ales brewed on-site.

3 Entertainment

Ishikawa Prefectural Nō Theatre

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 石川県立能楽堂; %076-264-2598; www.nohgaku.or.jp; 3-1 Dewa-machi;

performance prices vary; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

Nō theatre is alive and well in Kanazawa. Weekly performances take place here

in summer.

7 Shopping

The Hirosaka shopping street, between Kōrinbō 109 department store and

Kenrokuen, has some upmarket craft shops on its south side.

Sakuda Gold Leaf Company

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金銀箔工芸さくだ; %076-251-6777; www.goldleaf-sakuda.jp; 1-3-27

Higashiyama; h9am-6pm)

Here you can observe the kinpaku (gold-leaf) process and pick up all sorts of

gilded souvenirs, including pottery, lacquerware and, er…golf balls. It also

serves tea containing flecks of gold leaf, which is reputedly good for

rheumatism. Even the toilet walls are lined with gold and platinum.

KANAZAWA’S TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

During the Edo period Kanazawa’s ruling Maeda family fuelled the growth of important crafts.

Many are still practised today.

For an introduction, visit the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Products &

Crafts ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 石川県立伝統産業工芸館; %076-262-2020; www.ishikawa-

densankan.jp; 2-1 Kenroku-machi; adult/child/senior ¥260/100/200; h9am-5pm, closed 3rd Thu of

month Apr-Nov, closed Thu Dec-Mar).

Gold Leaf

A lump of pure gold the size of a ¥10 coin is rolled to the size of a tatami mat, becoming as little as

0.0001mm thick. The gold leaf is then cut into squares of 10.9cm – the size used for mounting on

walls, murals or paintings – or cut again for gilding on lacquerware or pottery. Kanazawa makes

over 98% of Japan’s gold leaf.

See some of the many uses for gold leaf at Sakuda Gold Leaf Company.

Kaga Yūzen Silk Dyeing

The laborious, specialised method of Kaga Yūzen silk dyeing is characterised by strong colours and

realistic depictions of nature, such as flower petals that have begun to brown around the edges.

White lines between elements where ink has washed away are a characteristic of Kaga Yūzen.

The Nagamachi Yūzen-kan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長町友禅館; %076-264-2811;

www.kagayuzen-club.co.jp; 2-6-16 Nagamachi; ¥350; h9.30am-5pm Thu-Mon Mar-Nov) displays some splendid examples of Kaga Yūzen kimono dyeing and demonstrates the process. Enquire

ahead about trying the silk-dyeing process yourself (¥4000).

Kutani Porcelain

Kutani porcelain is known for its elegant shapes, graceful designs and bright, bold colours. The

style dates back to the early Edo period and shares design characteristics with Chinese porcelain

and Japanese Imari ware. Typical motifs include birds, flowers, trees and landscapes.

To learn more, visit the Kutaniyaki Porcelain Art Museum in Kaga Onsen.

Ōhi Pottery

The deliberately simple, almost primitive designs, rough surfaces, irregular shapes and

monochromatic glazes of Ōhi pottery have been favoured by tea practitioners since the early Edo

period. Since that time one family, with the professional name Chōzaemon, has been keeper of the

Ōhi tradition.

Kanazawa & Wajima Lacquerware

To create Kanazawa and Wajima lacquerware, decoration is applied to luminous black lacquerware

through maki-e (decorating with gold or silver power) or gilding. Artists must take great care that

dust does not settle on the final product.

In Wajima, see examples at the Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Art Museum.

8 Information

Check out https://visitkanazawa.jp for general city information.

Kanazawa Tourist Information Center (石川県金沢観光情報センター;

%076-232-6200, KGGN 076-232-3933; http://kggn.sakura.ne.jp; 1 Hirooka-machi; h9am-7pm) This brilliant office inside Kanazawa Station, one of Japan’s best, has helpful staff, a

plethora of maps and pamphlets in a variety of languages, and the excellent,

free English-language magazine Eye on Kanazawa. The friendly folk from the

Goodwill Guide Network (KGGN) are also here to assist with hotel

recommendations and free guiding in English – two weeks’ notice is requested.

Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange (%076-262-5931; www.ifie.or.jp;

1-5-3 Honmachi; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Offers information, a library,

satellite-TV news and free internet access. It’s on the 3rd floor of the Rifare

building, a few minutes’ walk southeast of JR Kanazawa Station.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Nearby Komatsu Airport (KMQ; www.komatsuairport.jp) has air connections with major Japanese cities, as well as Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

BUS

JR Highway Bus operates express buses from in front of JR Kanazawa

Station’s east exit to Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station (¥6600, 7½ hours) and Kyoto

(¥3000, 4¼ hours).

Meitetsu ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 名鉄; %052-585-1111; 1-2-1 Meieki; h10am-8pm; dMeitetsu Nagoya), Hokutetsu Kankō and JR buses serve Nagoya (¥4180, four hours).

Nōhi Bus services Takayama (¥3390, 2¼ hours) via Shirakawa-go.

TRAIN

The arrival of the Hokuriku shinkansen in 2015 marked the beginning of a new

period of prosperity for Kanazawa, slashing journey times from Tokyo by more

than an hour. The direct trip between Kanazawa and Tokyo (¥14,120) now

takes just 2½ hours.

The JR Hokuriku line links Kanazawa with Fukui ( tokkyū/futsū ¥2500/1320,

45 minutes/1½ hours), Kyoto ( tokkyū ¥6380, 2¼ hours), Osaka ( tokkyū ¥7130,

2¾ hours) and Toyama ( futsū ¥980, one hour).

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Full-size bikes can be rented from JR Kanazawa Station Rent-a-Cycle ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 駅レンタサイクル; %076-261-1721; per hour/day ¥200/1200; h8am-8.30pm) and Hokutetsu Rent-a-Cycle ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 北鉄レンタサイクル; %076-263-0919; per 4hr/day ¥630/1050; h8am-5.30pm), both by the train station’s west exit.

There’s also a pay-as-you-go bicycle-rental system called ‘Machi-nori’. The

bikes are a little small for larger bodies, and not the most comfortable to ride,

but with a bit of planning the system functions well. For the low-down in

English, a downloadable map is available at www.machi-nori.jp.

BUS

Buses depart from the circular terminus in front of the station’s east exit. Any

bus from station stop 7, 8 or 9 will take you to the city centre (¥200). The

round-trip journey is free if you have a JR pass.

The Kanazawa Loop Bus (single ride/day pass ¥200/500, every 15 minutes

from 8.30am to 6pm) circles the major tourist attractions in 45 minutes. On

Saturday, Sunday and holidays, the Machi-bus goes to Kōrinbō for ¥100.

Airport buses (¥1130, 45 minutes) depart from Kanazawa station’s west exit.

Some services travel via Katamachi and Kōrinbō 109 but they take an hour to

reach the airport.

Day passes (¥500) offer excellent value, but since the influx of non-

Japanese-speaking visitors to town began to inadvertently cause lost-in-

translation-style chaos across the network, they can no longer be purchased on

board. Instead, purchase them from the Hokutetsu Kankō service centre inside

JR Kanazawa Station; there’s another centre opposite the Omi-chō Market bus

stop.

For more information, see www.hokutetsu.co.jp/en/en_round.

Noto Peninsula 能登半島

Rugged seascapes, rural life, seafood and a healthy range of cultural sights

make Noto Peninsula (能登半島; Noto-hantō) a pleasant escape from

Kanazawa’s urban sprawl. The lacquer-making town of Wajima is the hub of

the rugged north, known as Oku-Noto, and the best place to stay overnight.

Famous products include Wajima-nuri (lacquerware), Suzu-style pottery (its

black hue is due to iron in the indigenous clay), locally harvested sea salt and

iwanori (seaweed harvested from rocks).

Noto Peninsula

1 Top Sights

1 Kita-ke

A5

2 Myōjō-ji

A4

1 Sights

3 Kami-tokikuni-ke

C1

4 Senmaida Rice Terraces

B1

5 Shimo-tokikuni-ke

C1

6 Sōji-ji Soin

A2

4 Sleeping

7 Lamp no Yado

D1

7 Shopping

8 Road Station Suzunari

D1

4 Sleeping

You’ll find a handful of simple business hotels and minshuku (guesthouses) in

the towns of Hakui and Himi, but it’s worth going the extra few kilometres to

stay in Wajima, with its wider variety of accommodation (and dining) options.

The furthermost tip of the peninsula is also the least populated, but you’ll

find some humble minshuku here and a truly unique and impressive ryokan.

5 Eating

Between them, Hakui and Himi have the peninsula’s largest concentration of

dining options, with seafood usually heavy on the menu. Both towns have

branches of popular chain restaurants and some international flavours.

Wajima has dozens of minshuku known for seafood meals worth staying in

for. There are nice restaurants by the harbour, though some are closed by early

evening and finding an English speaker can be tricky.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

HAKUSAN NATIONAL PARK

Geared to serious hikers and naturalists, stunning Hakusen National Park (白山国立公園)

straddles four prefectures: Ishikawa, Fukui, Toyama and Gifu. Within are several peaks above

2500m, the tallest being Hakusan (2702m), a sacred mountain that has been worshipped since

ancient times. In summer, folks hike and scramble uphill for mountain sunrises. In winter, skiing

and onsen bathing take over. The alpine section of the park is criss-crossed with trails, offering

treks of up to 25km. For well-equipped hikers, there’s a 26km trek to Ogimachi in the Shōkawa

Valley.

For an overview of the hiking opportunities, check out www.kagahakusan.jp/en.

The closest access point is Bettōdeai. From here it’s 6km to Hakusan Murodō (about 4½ hours’

walk) and 5km to Nanryū Sansō (3½ hours).

Visiting Hakusan requires commitment. The main mode of transport is the Hokutetsu Kankō bus

from the east exit of Kanazawa Station to Bettōdeai (¥2200, two hours). From late June to mid-

October, up to three buses operate daily. If you’re driving from the Shōkawa Valley, you can take

the spectacular Hakusan White Rd toll route (one way/return ¥1600/2600).

There’s limited accommodation on the peaks, primarily offered in giant dorms at Hakusan

Murodō (白山室堂; %076-273-1001; www.kagahakusan.jp/en/murodo/index.html; dm ¥5300;

hMay-Nov) and Nanryū Sansō (南竜山荘; %076-259-2022; http://city-

hakusan.com/hakusan/naryusanso; dm incl 2 meals ¥8800, campsites ¥300, 5-person cabins

¥13,700; h1 Jul–15 Oct). The latter has a campground and popular basic cabins – camping

anywhere else is prohibited.

The villages of Ichirino, Chūgū Onsen, Shiramine and Ichinose have minshuku (guesthouses),

ryokan and camping. Rates start at around ¥300 per person for campsites and around ¥8500 for

lodge dorms or rooms in inns, each including two meals.

Dining options are limited to a handful of choices in each of the villages near the park’s borders.

Simple meals are available in the lodges atop the peaks.

8 Getting There & Around

In the centre of Oku-Noto, Noto Satoyama (Wajima) Airport connects the

peninsula with Tokyo (Haneda).

From Kanazawa, the JR Nanao line goes up the west coast of the peninsula

to Hakui and then across to Wakura Onsen on the east coast. From either

station, you can connect to infrequent local buses to elsewhere.

Hokutetsu Kankō runs buses between Kanazawa and Wajima and, less

frequently, Monzen (¥950, 35 minutes).

Self-driving from Kanazawa is easily the best way to see the peninsula. Most

sights can be reached by road only: hiring a car in Kanazawa is recommended.

The 83km Noto Yūryo (能登有料; Noto Toll Rd) speeds you as far as

Anamizu (toll ¥1180).

Noto’s mostly flat west coast appeals to cyclists, but cycling is not

recommended on the Noto-kongō (mid-west) and east coasts because of steep,

blind curves.

Lower Noto Peninsula

%0767, 0766

The small town of Hakui (羽咋) is the Noto Peninsula’s western transit hub,

with frequent train connections to Kanazawa and less frequent bus connections

along Noto’s west coast. With about twice the population, the town of Himi

(氷見) in neighbouring Toyama Prefecture, about 40 minutes’ drive east, is

also a viable starting point from which to tackle the peninsula.

1 Sights

o Kita-ke

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 喜多家; %0767-28-2546; Ra 4-1 Kitakawashiri, Hodatsushimizu; adult/child ¥500/200;

h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)

During the Edo period the Kita family administered over 200 villages from

Kita-ke, the pivotal crossroads of the Kaga, Etchū and Noto fiefs. Inside this

splendid, sprawling family home and museum are displays of weapons,

ceramics, farming tools, fine and folk art, and documents. The garden has been

called the Moss Temple of Noto.

It’s about 1km from the Komedashi exit on the Noto Yūryo (Noto Toll Rd).

By train, take the JR Nanao line to Menden Station and walk for 20 minutes.

o Myōjō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 妙成寺; %0767-27-1226; Yo-1 Takidani-machi; ¥510; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-

Mar)

Founded in 1294 by Nichizō, a disciple of Nichiren’s, the imposing Myōjō-ji

remains an important temple for the sect. The peaceful grounds comprise 10

Important Cultural Properties, most notably the strikingly elegant five-storey

pagoda. The Togi-bound bus from JR Hakui Station can drop you at Myōjō-ji-

guchi bus stop (¥430, 18 minutes); from there it’s less than 10 minutes’ walk.

8 Getting There & Away

From Kanazawa, take the JR Nanao line to Hakui (¥820, one hour). The JR

Himi line connects Takaoka (in Toyama Prefecture) with Himi ( futsū ¥310, 33

minutes).

Car-rental companies can be found near Himi’s and Hakui’s train stations.

Noto-kongō Coast 能登金剛

%0767, 0768

This rocky, cliff-lined shore extends for about 16km between Fukūra and

Sekinohana, and is adorned with dramatic rock formations. The region’s best

explored by (narrow) road.

1 Sights

Sōji-ji Soin

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 総持寺祖院; %0768-42-0005; 1-18-1 Monzen, Monzen; adult/child ¥400/160; h8am-5pm)

This beautiful temple was established in 1321 as the head of the Sōtō school of

Zen but now functions as a branch temple. The site’s buildings were damaged

by the 2007 Noto earthquake and remain under fastidious reconstruction. Sōji-

ji Soin welcomes visitors to experience one hour of zazen (seated meditation;

¥300; 9am to 3pm), serves shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine; ¥2500 to

¥3500) and can accommodate visitors (with two meals ¥6500; single women

prohibited). Reserve at least two days ahead.

The temple’s renovations are set to be completed in 2021.

8 Getting There & Away

To get to the coast from Kanazawa, take the JR Nanao line to Hakui (¥820, one

hour), then connect to buses.

The manicured little town of Monzen is the area’s transport hub, with buses

servicing Kanazawa (¥2100, 2½ hours, four daily), Hakui (¥1560, 1½ hours,

four daily) and Wajima (¥670, 45 minutes, nine daily).

Wajima 輪島

%0768 / POP 27,698

The fishing port of Wajima (輪島), historically famed for delicate Wajima-nuri

(lacquerware), is the largest town in the Noto Peninsula’s north. The 2015

arrival of the Hokuriku shinkansen (bullet train) to Kanazawa has injected new

energy into this fishing village; it’s great fun seeing fashionable Japanese

urbanites mingle with old salts. Wajima’s fantastic Asa-ichi morning market is

ground zero for people-watching and shopping for trinkets, snacks and

antiques.

1 Sights

o Asa-ichi

MARKET

(朝市, Morning Market; h8am-noon, closed 10th & 25th of month)

Among a few hundred elderly women selling fresh-off-the-trawler seafood, this

entertaining morning market features cool boutiques offering tasteful

lacquerware, pottery and souvenirs, and hip young Japanese families from

Kanazawa and further afield. Haggle politely if you dare.

Kiriko Kaikan

MUSEUM

(キリコ会館; %0768-22-7100; http://wajima-kiriko.com; 6-1 Marine Town; adult/child ¥620/360; h8am-5pm)

Here you can view a selection of the impressive illuminated, lacquered floats

used in the Wajima Taisai (輪島大祭; hlate Aug) festival, some up to 15m tall.

Take the bus to Tsukada stop (¥150, six minutes).

Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Art Museum

MUSEUM

(石川輪島漆芸美術館; %0768-22-9788; www.city.wajima.ishikawa.jp/art/home_english.html; 11

Shijukari Mitomori-machi; adult/student ¥620/150; h9am-4.30pm)

This modern museum, about a 15-minute walk west of the former train station,

has rotating exhibitions of its large lacquerware collection in galleries over two

floors. Phone ahead, as it closes between exhibitions.

z Festivals & Events

Gojinjō Daikō Nafune Matsuri

MUSIC

(御陣乗太鼓名舟大祭; h31 Jul)

This festival features participants wearing demon masks and seaweed head

gear and culminates in a frenzy of wild drumming.

4 Sleeping

Sodegahama Camping Ground

CAMPGROUND

$

(袖が浜キャンプ場; %0768-23-1146; 51 Sodegahama; campsites per person ¥1000; p)

Take the local noranke bus (¥100) or Nishiho bus (direction Zōza, 雑座) to

Sodegahama, or hike for 20 minutes to reach this beachfront campground.

Route Inn Wajima

HOTEL

$$

(ホテルルートイン輪島; %0768-22-7700; www.route-inn.co.jp; 1-2 Marine Town; s/d with

breakfast from ¥7250/12,000; paW)

With decent-size rooms and great views from the upper floors, this modern

harbourside tourist hotel has all you need if you’re passing through.

Oyado Tanaka

RYOKAN

$$

(お宿たなか; %0768-22-5155; www.oyado-tanaka.jp; 22-38 Kawai-machi; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥13,000; paW)

This immaculate 10-room inn has beds on tatami, hot-spring baths (including a

private-use rotemburo for an extra charge), dark woodwork, paper lanterns and

ambience aplenty. The kaiseki meals feature local seafood and lacquerware.

5 Eating & Drinking

Madara-yakata

SEAFOOD

¥

(まだら館; %0768-22-3453; www.madara-yakata.com; 4-103 Kawai-machi; dishes from ¥870; h11am-7pm)

This restaurant near the Asa-ichi market serves local specialities including

zōsui (rice hotpot), yaki-zakana (grilled fish) and seasonal seafood, surrounded

by folk crafts.

Umi-tei Notokichi

SEAFOOD

¥ ¥

(海亭のと吉; %0768-22-6636; 4-153 Kawaimachi; dishes ¥620-2700; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Thu-

Tue)

Umi-tei Notokichi has been a popular local haunt for generations – it’s a

quintessential Japanese seafood experience. Purists should keep it simple and

go for the sashimi moriawase (sashimi of the day). It also does a mean version

of katsudon (crumbed pork cutlet on rice).

Kalpa

COFFEE

(%0768-22-0036; 2-72-1 Kawaimachi; h8.30am-5pm Thu-Tue)

What a delightful surprise to find excellent coffee in deepest Noto! The barista

behind Kalpa’s counter is also a third-generation lacquer craftsman; his and his

father’s handiwork is for sale in the shop.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (輪島観光協会; %0768-22-1503; h8am-7pm) Limited

English is spoken by the friendly staff at this office in the former Wajima train

station, now the bus station. However, they do have Englishlanguage maps and

can help with accommodation bookings.

8 Getting There & Away

Hokuriku Tetsudo runs buses between Kanazawa and Wajima (¥2200, two

hours, 11 daily), although renting a car in Kanazawa or in the lower Noto

Peninsula is by far the easiest way to explore the area.

Upper Noto Peninsula

%0768

Travelling from Wajima towards the tip of the Noto Peninsula you’ll pass the

famous slivered dandan-batake (rice terraces) at Senmaida (千枚田) before

arriving in the coastal village of Sosogi (曽々木), with its mado-iwa (窓岩;

window rock) formation just offshore, and a number of hiking trails. In winter

look for nami-no-hana (flowers of the waves): masses of foam that form when

waves gnash Sosogi’s rocky shore.

The road northeast from Sosogi passes sea-salt farms as it winds its way

onward to Rokō-zaki, the peninsula’s furthest point. Here, in the village of

Noroshi (狼煙), you can amble up to the lighthouse for wonderful views

before circling around the tip of the peninsula south to the outposts of Suzu

and Noto-chō, from where the scenery becomes gradually less dramatic on the

way back to more urban areas.

1 Sights

Senmaida Rice Terraces

LANDMARK

( MAP ; 白米千枚田段々畑; http://senmaida.wajima-kankou.jp/en)

Once a common sight in Japan, the ancient terraced method of rice farming is

disappearing. These ‘thousand’ paddies snaking up the hillside are both

fascinating and beautiful in all seasons.

Kami-tokikuni-ke

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 上時国家; %0768-32-0171; 13-4 Machino-machi, Minamitoki-kuni; adult/child ¥520/310;

h8.30am-5pm)

One of the few survivors of the Taira clan, Taira Tokitada was exiled to this

region in 1185. His ancestors eventually divided and established separate

family residences here, both now Important Cultural Properties – the other is

Tokikuni-ke. Kami-tokikuni-ke has an impressive thatched roof and an elegant

interior. It was completed in the early 19th century.

Shimo-tokikuni-ke ( MAP ; 時国家; %0768-32-0171; 13-4 Machino-machi, Minamitoki-

kuni; adult/child ¥600/300; h8.30am-5pm), the older residence, was built in 1590 in the

style of the Kamakura period and has a meishō tei-en (famous garden).

4 Sleeping

o Lamp no Yado

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP ; ランプの宿; %0768-86-8000; www.lampnoyado.co.jp; 10-11 Jike, Misaki-machi; r per person with 2 meals from ¥21,000; paWs)

Remote Lamp no Yado is a place all its own: a 13-room wooden village

beneath a cliff (busy with tour buses, a snack hall and a vast asphalt parking

lot). The cape’s beach has been a destination for peace-seeking travellers for

centuries; there’s been an inn here since the 1970s. Rooms are decadent, and

some have private rotemburo.

This is a romantic destination ryokan.

7 Shopping

Road Station Suzunari

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP ; 珠洲市観光協会; %0768-82-4688; https://notohantou.jp; 15 Nojemachi; h8.30am-6pm) In the former Suzu train station (and attached to the current Suzu bus station),

this shop sells well-priced crafts and products from around the Noto region.

See if you can resist ordering another helping of the vanilla ice cream with

Suzu salt.

8 Getting There & Away

From Wajima, Ushitsu-bound buses for the Senmaida Rice Terraces stop in

Sosogi (¥760, 50 minutes), but renting a car will afford greater freedom to

explore this sleepy, scenic coastline.

Kaga Onsen 加賀温泉

%0761 / POP 67,793

This broad area consisting of three hot-spring villages – Katayamazu Onsen,

Yamashiro Onsen and Yamanaka Onsen – centres on Kaga Onsen (加賀温泉)

and Daishōji Stations along the JR Hokuriku line and is famed for its onsen

ryokan (traditional hot-spring inns), lacquerware and porcelain. The area is

popular with local tourists, who spend most of their time relaxing in the onsen,

enjoying kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) and getting to bed early. Kaga Onsen

is not a party area.

Of the three villages, Yamanaka Onsen is the most scenic, straddling the

Kakusenkei Gorge, through which the Daishoji-gawa flows.

1 Sights

Zenshō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(全昌寺; %0761-72-1164; 1 Daishōji Shinmei-chō; ¥500; h9am-5pm)

The Daishōji Station area is crammed with temples, including Zenshō-ji, which

houses more than 500 amusingly carved Buddhist arhat sculptures.

Kutaniyaki Porcelain Art Museum

MUSEUM

(石川県九谷焼美術館; %0761-72-7466; www.kutani-mus.jp/en; 1-10-13 Daishōji Jikata-machi;

adult/child ¥500/free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

Stunning examples of bright and colourful local porcelain are on display here,

about an eight-minute walk from Daishōji Station.

2 Activities

Yamanaka Onsen

ONSEN

The 17th-century haiku poet Bashō rhapsodised on the chrysanthemum

fragrance of the mineral springs in Yamanaka Onsen. It’s still an ideal spot for

chilling at the Kiku no Yu bathhouse (菊の湯; 11 Yunodemachi, Yamanaka Onsen;

¥420; h6.45am-10.30pm), and for river walks by the Kakusenkei Gorge, spanned by

the elegant Korogi-bashi (Cricket Bridge) and the whimsical, modernart

Ayatori-hashi (Cat’s Cradle Bridge).

Yamanaka Onsen is accessible by bus (¥420, 30 minutes) from Kaga Onsen

Station.

Kosōyu

ONSEN

(古総湯; Yamashiro Onsen; ¥500, Sōyu combined ticket ¥700; h6am-10pm)

Close to Kaga Onsen Station, Yamashiro Onsen is a sleepy town centred on a

magnificent wooden bathhouse that was recently rebuilt. Kosōyu has beautiful

stained-glass windows and a rest area on the top floor; neighbouring Sōyu is a

larger, more modern bathhouse.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Ohanami Kyubei

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(お花見久兵衛; %0761-78-1301; www.ohanami-kyubei.jp; 138-1 Ni Shimotanimachi, Yamanaka

Onsen; r per person ¥7000; paW)

Popular with Japanese tourists (the result of a ubiquitous television advert), the

Kyubei onsen ryokan is a long, narrow property vertiginously perched on

Kakusenkei Gorge. Rooms have good river views, and a bath-salt scrub in the

public onsen will make your skin feel as soft as a baby’s bottom.

o Kayōtei

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(かよう亭; %0761-78-1410; www.kayotei.jp; 1-20 Higashi-machi, Yamanaka Onsen; per person incl 2 meals from ¥30,000; paiW)

This opulent ryokan along the scenic Kakusenkei Gorge has only 10 rooms,

centred on a delicate garden courtyard. Some rooms have views over the gorge

and a beautiful hidden waterfall. Kitchen staff forage wild herbs from the

mountains for meals, and wild boar are sometimes visible from private

rotemburo (outdoor baths).

Beniya Mukayū

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(べにや無何有; %0761-77-1340; www.mukayu.com; 55-1-3 Yamashiro Onsen, Yamashiro Onsen;

per person incl 2 meals from ¥34,000; paiW)

The friendly staff at this award-winning, gorgeously minimalist ryokan are

committed to upholding the Japanese art of hospitality. A sense of Zen

pervades every aspect of the guest experience here, from the welcoming private

tea ceremony to the gentle morning yoga classes. Rooms are a beautiful fusion

of old and new, and every room features a private rotemburo.

Chōraku

DUMPLINGS

¥

(手作り餃子 長樂; %0761-78-1087; http://choraku.net; 21 Yunohonmachi, Yamanaka Onsen;

gyōza from ¥450; h11.30am-1.30pm & 5-9.30pm)

The family behind Chōraku has been making delicate gyōza by hand to order

for more than 50 years, and their experience has deliciously paid off. The mapo

tofu and ramen are also excellent. This is a refreshingly unpretentious place to

eat in a town filled with gorgeous, precise kaiseki.

8 Information

Yamanaka Onsen Ryokan Cooperative (山中温泉旅館協同組合; %0761-78-

0330; www.yamanaka-spa.or.jp/global/eng; 5-1 Yamanaka Onsen)

Yamashiro Onsen Tourist Association (山代温泉観光協会; %0761-77-1144;

www.yamashiro-spa.or.jp/foreign/en; 3-70 Hokubu; h9am-5pm)

8 Getting There & Around

The JR Hokuriku line links Kaga Onsen with Kanazawa ( tokkyū/futsū

¥1510/760, 25/44 minutes) and Fukui ( tokkyū/futsū ¥1330/580, 21/33 minutes).

Willer Express (%050-5805-0383; http://willerexpress.com) operates bus services from Tokyo to Kaga Onsen, from ¥5900.

Enquire at the tourism association or your accommodation about the

irregular tour bus to Daihonzan Eihei-ji.

In Yamashiro Onsen, ‘Can bus’ (two-day pass ¥1200) operates a similar

service around the area’s various sights and onsen.

Fukui 福井

%0776 / POP 265,904

Unfortunate Fukui city (福井) was decimated in the 1940s, first by war, then

by earthquake. Most of the sights of interest are scattered around the compact

prefecture, a short drive from town, but the tidy city features a pretty park and

castle grounds. Consider car rental and an overnight stay: country roads make

for easy driving and the scenery is lovely.

1 Sights

o Ichijōdani Asakura Clan Ruins

RUINS

(一乗谷朝倉氏遺跡, Ichijōdani Asakura-shi Iseki; %0776-41-2330; http://asakura-

museum.pref.fukui.lg.jp; 4-10 Abaka; ¥230; h9am-4.30pm)

Designated a national historic site, this out-of-the-way place features one of the

largest town ruins in Japan, dating from the early 15th century. It’s easy to see

why the Asakura clan would have built their small fortified city here: it’s very

beautiful, perched in a narrow valley between modest mountains. You’re free

to wander along the restored street of merchants’ houses and stroll the lush

grounds, following the building remnants up the hillside. It’s a wonderful spot

to sit, picnic and contemplate.

Daihonzan Eihei-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(大本山永平寺; %0776-63-3640; https://daihonzan-eiheiji.com/en; 5-15 Shihi, Eiheiji; adult/child

¥500/200; h8.30am-5pm)

In 1244 the great Zen master Dōgen (1200–53), founder of the Sōtō sect of Zen

Buddhism, established Eihei-ji, the ‘Temple of Eternal Peace’, in a forest

outside Fukui. Today it’s one of Sōtō’s two head temples, a palpably spiritual

place amid mountains, mosses and ancient cedars. That said, day trippers

visiting the complex of more than 70 buildings might not find the constant

buzz of visitors and activities as peaceful as they might desire.

Aspirants can participate in Eihei-ji’s one-night stay or three-night sanzen-

experience program, which follow the monks’ training schedule.

The compound is often closed for periods varying from a week to 10 days

for religious observance. Sanrō-temple stays cost from ¥9000 for a one-night

stay to ¥20,000 for the full sanzen experience, and must be booked several

months in advance.

To get to Eihei-ji from Fukui, take the Keifuku bus (¥720, 30 minutes,

hourly); buses depart from the east exit of JR Fukui Station.

Fukui Dinosaur Museum

MUSEUM

(福井県立恐竜博物館; %0779-88-0001; www.dinosaur.pref.fukui.jp; 51-11 Muroko-chō Terao, Katsuyama; adult/child ¥720/260; h9am-5pm)

Kids love the larger-than-life replicas and fossilised relics of the Jurassic Park–

styled Fukui Dinosaur Museum, one of the three largest museums of its kind in

the world. There are plenty of English explanations and more than 40 main

exhibits (including interactive ones) concerned with natural history, prehistoric

flora and fauna, and the dinosaurs that once roamed Japan and other parts of

the world. The closest train station is Katsuyama on the privately owned

Echizen line, but your best bet is self-driving.

2 Activities

Sanzen Experience Program

MEDITATION

(%0776-63-3640; https://daihonzan-eiheiji.com/en/guide-izw-beginners.html; 5-15 Shihi, Eiheiji;

¥20,000)

Aspirants affiliated with a Sōtō Zen organisation can attend these four-day,

three-night sanzen religious-experience programs at Daihonzan Eihei-ji, which

follow the monks’ training schedule, complete with 4.10am prayers, cleaning,

zazen (seated meditation) and ritual meals in which not a grain of rice may be

left behind. Knowledge of Japanese isn’t necessary, but some self-discipline is

helpful. Book well ahead.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Fukui city has a handful of moderately priced business and tourist hotels and

some basic minshuku.

While Fukui lacks the range of dining options found in other, more popular

tourist towns, there’s still plenty to choose from around the train station’s west

and east exits and driving along Rte 158. The area is known for its oroshi soba

(buckwheat noodles with a variety of dipping sauces).

Fukui Phoenix Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

(福井フェニックスホテル; %0776-21-1800; www.phoenix-hotel.jp; 2-4-18 Ote; s/d/tw from

¥9000/14,000/15,000; paW)

A hop, skip and jump from JR Fukui Station, this refurbished hotel has

tastefully decorated rooms, free wi-fi, a coin laundry, and a variety of room

types (including suites) for those wanting a little more room to spread out.

Parking is available nearby for ¥1000.

Amida Soba Yūbuan

NOODLES

¥ ¥

(あみだそば遊歩庵; %0776-76-3519; 1-9-1 Chūō; soba ¥600-1300; h11.30am-7pm)

On the Rekishi-no-michi street outside the west exit of Fukui Station, you’ll

find this delightful variation on a soba theme. The speciality is oroshi soba

sanmai (¥1300), a double serve of thick, flattened soba noodles with three

flavours to dip them into: oroshi (grated daikon), tororo (grated mountain

potato) and wasabi.

Amida has another location on the ground floor of the food hall adjacent to

the spanking-new station.

8 Information

Fukui Tourist Information Center (福井市観光案内所; %0776-20- 5348; 1-2-1

Chūō; h8.30am-7pm) Enquire here, just outside the west exit of JR Fukui Station,

for local maps and itineraries. The English-speaking staff members are super

helpful and ready to show off their city.

8 Getting There & Away

JR trains connect Fukui with Kanazawa ( tokkyū/futsū ¥2500/1320, 48

minutes/1½ hours), Tsuruga ( tokkyū/futsū ¥2150/970, 35/52 minutes), Kyoto

(¥4420, 1½ hours) and Osaka (¥5690, 2½ hours).

There are several car-rental options outside the east exit of JR Fukui Station,

including Toyota Rent-a-Car.

Toyama 富山

%076 / POP 418,686

Toyama (富山) is the starting point for your journey on the Tateyama–Kurobe

Alpine Route. Its marine ecology also makes it a pilgrimage spot for seafood

enthusiasts.

In October 2014 Toyama’s picturesque mountain-ringed bay was inducted

into the Unesco-endorsed Most Beautiful Bays in the World club, making it the

second bay in Japan to be awarded this prestigious title, recognising the bay’s

natural beauty as well as its unique ecosystem. Toyama-wan’s nutrient-dense

waters are fed from nearby mountains and sustain a wide variety of marine life,

including the uncommon hotaruika (firefly squid) and shiroebi (white shrimp).

There aren’t many opportunities to get out on the water, but sampling the

unique seafood of Toyama, celebrated throughout Japan, is a special treat.

TATEYAMA–KUROBE ALPINE ROUTE

From mid-April to November the popular seasonal 90km Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒

部アルペンルート) connects Tateyama (Toyama Prefecture) with Shinano-ōmachi (Nagano

Prefecture) via a sacred mountain, a deep gorge, a boiling-hot spring and glory-hallelujah mountain

scenery. It’s divided into nine sections and uses different modes of transport, including your own

two feet. Reservations are strongly advised.

Travel is possible in either direction; as the route is often only travelled one way, using it to

travel between Toyama and Nagano is recommended. Full details can be found at www.alpen-

route.com. There are hundreds of steps along the way and plenty of walking. Be sure to forward

your baggage to your destination hotel before you set off (details are on the website).

The one way/return fare for the entire route is ¥10,850/18,260; tickets for individual sections are

available. The trip takes at least six hours one way. If you’re starting in Toyama and not heading to

Nagoya, you may find a return trip to Murodō (¥6710), the route’s highest point at 2450m,

sufficient.

Start the journey before 9am at Toyama Station on the chug-a-lug regional Toyama Chiho line

bound for Tateyama (¥1290, one hour). The first stage of the route is the cable car up to Bijodaira

(美女平; seven minutes).

Next is a bus journey up to Murodō (室堂; 50 minutes) via the spectacular alpine plateau of

Midagahara Kōgen, where you can break the trip and do the 15-minute walk to see Tateyama

caldera (立山カルデラ), the largest nonactive crater in Japan. The upper part of the plateau is

often covered with deep snow well into spring; snowploughs keep the road clear by pushing vast

walls of snow to each side of the road, forming a virtual tunnel of ice.

Ten minutes’ walk from Murodō is Mikuri-ga-ike (みくりが池) pond, where you’ll find

Japan’s highest onsen ryokan (www.mikuri.com). Twenty minutes further on is Jigokudani Onsen (Hell Valley Hot Springs); there’s no bathing here as the waters are boiling! To the east you can

make the steep two-hour hike to the peak of O-yama (推山; 3003m) for an astounding panorama.

Experienced and equipped long-distance hikers can continue south to Kamikōchi.

When you’re ready, board the trolley bus that tunnels through Tateyama-dake for 3.7km to

Daikanbō (10 minutes). From here the Tateyama Ropeway whisks you 488m down to Kurobe-

daira (seven minutes), offering breathtaking views of the valley below. You’re free to stop

between sections at your own pace, or go with the flow of the crowds. The next step is the

underground Kurobe cable car to Kurobeko (five minutes). You’ll emerge to see the massive

Kurobe Dam: it’s a 15-minute walk across the dam to the impressive observation deck.

When you’re ready to proceed, trolley buses (16 minutes) whisk you through a 5.8km tunnel to

the end of your journey at Ogizawa. From here there’s a bus to Ōmachi onsen-kyo (40 minutes;

elevation 712m) and then on to Nagano Station (90 minutes) – you made it!

Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route cable car | JOESAYHELLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Sleeping & Eating

Thanks to the arrival of the Hokuriku shinkansen, Toyama’s station area is

going through a facelift that’s expected to finish by 2020. The city has also

seen the construction of some new hotels, most of which are around the

station’s south exit.

Sample Toyama’s unique seafood at restaurants outside the station’s south

exit.

Toyama Excel Hotel Tōkyū

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(富山エクセルホテル東急; %076-441-0109; www.toyama-e.tokyuhotels.co.jp; 1-2-3

Shintomi-chō; s/d from ¥15,000/20,000; pai)

Toyama’s fanciest place to stay has 210 rooms in a variety of configurations

and two restaurants. Rooms on higher floors have fantastic views.

Shiroebi-tei

SEAFOOD

¥ ¥

(白えび亭; %076-432-7575; www.shiroebiya.co.jp; 1-220 Meirin-cho; meal sets from ¥1200; h10am-8pm)

Locals swear by this high-volume institution on the ground floor of Toyama

Station. The staple is shiroebi ten-don (white-shrimp tempura over rice;

¥1200). Order from the ticket-vending machine inside the restaurant; a server

will be happy to help if you need it.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (観光案内所; %076-432-9751; http://foreign.info-

toyama.com/en; h8.30am-8pm) Inside Toyama Station, this office stocks maps and

pamphlets on Toyama and the Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route. Excellent

English is spoken by blazerwearing staff, and bicycles can be rented.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Daily flights operate between Toyama Airport (TOY; www.toyama-airport.co.jp/english)

and major Japanese cities; there are less frequent flights to Seoul and Shanghai.

BUS

Buses are available between Toyama and Osaka, Toyko, and Gifu and Niigata

Prefectures; see www.info-toyama.com for details.

TRAIN

The Hokuriku shinkansen connects Toyama with Kanazawa (¥3550, 20

minutes), Nagano (¥7100, one hour) and Tokyo (¥12,730, 2¾ hours).

The JR Takayama line runs south to Takayama (¥1660, 90 minutes) and

Nagoya (¥8030, four hours). The JR Hokuriku line runs west to Kanazawa

(¥1220, one hour) and Osaka (¥8350, 3¼ hours), and northeast to Niigata

(¥6178, three hours).

Takaoka 高岡

%0766 / POP 172,125

The pleasant city of Takaoka (高岡), famed for the production of copper

temple bells, is home to one of Japan’s three Great Buddhas, several well-

preserved historic walking neighbourhoods, and the truly awesome Zuiryū-ji, a

National Treasure. Unlike many cities of its size in Central Honshū, Takaoka

has resisted modernisation and retains a mid-20th-century feel, from its

covered sidewalk arcades right down to its adorable vintage tram cars that look

as though they belong in a museum. It’s a walkable, workaday town where

you’ll likely be one of only a few visitors.

1 Sights

o Zuiryū-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(瑞龍寺; %0766-22-0179; www.zuiryuji.jp; 35 Sekihon-machi; adult/child ¥500/200; h9am-4.30pm) One of Japan’s National Treasures, the temple of the second generation of

feudal lord Maeda Toshinaga’s family is rightly famous for its manicured

lawns, steep roofs, and all-round aesthetic that marries Indian and Japanese

architectural styles. If you come just before 9am, there’s every chance you’ll

have the place to yourself, with the exception of the temple deshi (apprentice),

who’ll be raking stones and opening shōji (sliding rice-paper-screen doors)

before the day’s visitors arrive.

Kojō Park

PARK

(www.kojyo.sakura.ne.jp; 1-1-9 Kojō)

This big park is the site of the old Takaoka castle ( kojō means – you guessed it

– ‘old castle’), demolished in 1615 after being in use only six years. The moats

and the large green lawns make for enjoyable strolling and picnicking. The

park is also home to badminton, tabletennis and volleyball facilities (¥100 per

hour).

Takaoka Great Buddha

LANDMARK

(高岡大仏; %0766-23-9156; 11-29 Ōte-machi; h6am-6pm)

Construction of this great bronze Buddha statue began in 1907 and was

completed in 1933. The statue was moved to its present location in 1981 after

the ground supporting it began to give way. It’s now a symbol of the city and

referred to as one of the three Great Buddhas of Japan.

Risaburō Foundry

FACTORY

(鋳物工房利三郎, Imono Kōbō Risaburō; %0766-24-0852; www13.plala.or.jp/jinpachi; 8-11

Kanaya-machi; h10am-5pm) F

This factory has been producing traditional Takaoka bronzeware since the

Meiji era and allows visitors a rare and fascinating glimpse of the casting

process, as well as the opportunity to participate in the process themselves

(¥3000).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Takaoka has some pleasant, well-priced business and tourist hotels by JR

Takaoka Station.

Most of the city’s dining options are clustered around the station area. Many

restaurants showcase the variety of seafood sourced from nearby Toyama-wan.

Daibutsu Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(%0766-21-0075; www.ryokan.or.jp/english/yado/main/45780; 1276 Daibutsumachi; r per person from

¥4500; paW)

Sweet Daibutsu Ryokan is run by a friendly, helpful family eager to share their

knowledge of Takaoka. The rambling old house is built around two Japanese

gardens, one featuring a personal, meditative koi (carp) pond. The ryokan’s

one-block proximity to the Great Buddha means you can have the large

gentleman all to yourself in the evening or early morning.

8 Information

Takaoka Station Tourist Information Center (高岡駅観光案内所; %0766-20-

1547; www.takaoka.or.jp/en; bike rental per day ¥200; h9am-5pm)

8 Getting There & Away

Takaoka is served by local trains from Himi, at the base of the Noto Peninsula

(¥320, 29 minutes), and Toyama (¥360, 23 minutes). The Hokuriku shinkansen

zooms into the new Shin-Takaoka Station, where you can change to the Johana

line for a local train to Takaoka Station (¥140, three minutes).

8 Getting Around

It’s easy to get around on bikes, which can be rented April to November from

the Takaoka Station Tourist Information Center.

WORTH A TRIP

KUROBE GORGE RAILWAY

The Kurobe Gorge Railway ( MAP ; 黒部峡谷トロッコ電車; %0765-62-1011;

www.kurotetu.co.jp; 11 Kurobe Kyokoku-guchi, Kurobe; one-way to Keyaki-daira ¥1980; h9am-5pm May-November) is a unique ride through the heart of the Kurobe Valley. It runs from Unazuki

to Keyaki-daira in tiny carriages used for the construction of the Kurobe Dam. When you’re not

careening through tunnels, the mountain views are breathtaking, especially in autumn, and the

opportunity to explore some truly remote and astounding mountain rotemburo and inns is definitely

rewarding.

The new Kurobe Unazuki Onsen Station on the Hokuriku shinkansen line has dramatically

improved access and increased visitor numbers. From Shin-Kurobe Station (adjacent to the

shinkansen station), catch a local train to Unazuki Onsen Station (¥630, 30 minutes), from where

it’s a short walk to Unazuki Station, terminus of the Kurobe Gorge Railway.

You must purchase tickets for each leg of the journey separately at each station; due to high

passenger demand, this is not a hop-on, hop-off service. The entire journey from Unazuki to

Keyaki-daira takes about 80 minutes. It’s suggested that you first take the full journey, and decide

along the way which stops you’d like to get off at on the way back. For full details on how to get

there, what to see and how it works, refer to the website.

The remote Kuronagi-onsen is a must-see: look out for bears along the path. Also recommended

is the Iwa-buro cave bath, a short walk from Kanetsuri Station. The restaurant at Keyaki-daira can

get very busy at times so bring snacks for the journey, as well as some warm clothing, even in

summer it can get very chilly in the tunnels.

Try to get a seat on the right-hand side of the train for the outbound journey from Unazuki, and

the left-hand side coming back, or you’ll miss the best photo ops. Note that carriages are allocated,

but seats aren’t reserved: it’s first come, first served.

THE NORTHERN JAPAN ALPS 北アルプス

Boasting some of Japan’s most magnificent peaks and dramatic scenery, the

northern Japan Alps (北アルプス) are truly spectacular, with stunning 3000m

peaks accessible even to amateur hikers. Also known as the Hida Range (飛騨

山脈), the mountains are protected within Chūbu-Sangaku National Park (中部

山岳国立公園). Put very simply, the northern Alps are in the shape of a big

‘Y’. The northwestern arm is based around the Tateyama peaks and accessed

from Murodō on the Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route. The lovely resort village

of Kamikōchi, at the base of the ‘Y’, is the access point for hiking in the south,

while the northeastern arm of the ‘Y’ is accessed from Hakuba, home to

various events at the 1998 Winter Olympics.

For those coming from Tokyo, lovely Matsumoto, in the centre of north–

south sprawling Nagano Prefecture, is the gateway city for the northern Alps

and a fascinating destination in its own right.

8 Information

Make sure you have enough cash before setting out: to say that ATMs are

scarce is an understatement – and bankcards rarely work at altitude.

8 Getting There & Away

Matsumoto is the key transport hub of the region, especially if you’re coming

from Tokyo. Those coming from points west, such as Nagoya or Osaka, may

consider approaching the north Alps from Takayama, while the northwestern

arm of the north Alps can be accessed from Toyama on the Sea of Japan coast.

Shinshū Matsumoto Airport services a handful of domestic destinations.

Alpico Group (www.alpico.co.jp) runs longdistance buses connecting Matsumoto,

Nagano, Kamikōchi and Hakuba with Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka.

JR’s tokkyū Super Azusa trains link Matsumoto to Tokyo (Shinjuku) and its

tokkyū Shinano trains twist their way through the mountains, onward to

Nagoya.

8 Getting Around

BUS

Alpico Group runs buses connecting all the hot spots you’re likely to want to

get to. See its website for all the options.

If you’re heading west into Kamikōchi, or through to Takayama, from

Matsumoto, you can travel by bus, or take a ride on the private Alpico Line

train to the end of the line at Shin-Shimashima and then a bus. Either way, the

journey is breathtaking.

Within the Alps, schedules change seasonally. Alpico’s Alps-wide Free

Passport (www.alpico.co.jp/en/special; ¥12,000) gives you four days’

unlimited travel on its network within Shinshu, Chūbu-Sangaku National Park

and Hida (including Shirakawa-gō).

NORTHERN JAPAN ALPS SAMPLE BUS FARES & DURATIONS

FROM

TO

FARE (¥, ONE-

DURATION (MINUTES,

WAY)

ONE-WAY)

Takayama

Hirayu Onsen 1570

55

Kamikōchi

2600

80

Shin-Hotaka

2150

90

Matsumoto

Shin-

700 (train)

30

Shimashima

Kamikōchi

2650

95

Shin-

Naka-no-yu

1100

50

Shimashima

Kamikōchi

1250

70

Shirahone

1450

75

Onsen

Kamikōchi

Naka-no-yu

770

15

Hirayu Onsen 1160

25

Shirahone

1350

35

Onsen

Hirayu Onsen Naka-no-yu

580

10

Shin-Hotaka

920

30

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Hiring a car is a good option if winding roads don’t bother you and you’re not

overnighting in Kamikōchi. Note that the road from the Naka-no-yu turnoff

into Kamikōchi is only open to buses and taxis.

TRAIN

Matsumoto is the hub for trains in the region.

From Matsumoto, the JR Oito line runs north along the eastern side of the

north Alps, stopping at Hotaka (30 minutes, ¥320), Shinano-Ōmachi (for the

Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route; one hour, ¥670) and Hakuba (100 minutes,

¥1140).

Alpico Line trains run west as far as Shin-Shimashima (30 minutes, ¥700).

Buses run from there into Kamikōchi and west through to Takayama.

JR Shinanoi line trains run northeast to Nagano city ( tokkyū 50 minutes,

¥3040).

JR Shinano trains run southwest through the Kiso Valley to Kiso-Fukushima

(40 minutes, ¥2870) and on to Nagoya. Local trains on the JR Chūō line also

run through the valley, but at a much more leisurely pace.

ALPINE–TAKAYAMA-MATSUMOTO AREA TOURIST PASS

The Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Area Tourist Pass (http://touristpass.jp/en/alpine; adult/child

¥17,500/8750) is very useful here. Valid for five consecutive days, it covers the Tateyama–Kurobe

Alpine Route, Matsumoto, the Kiso Valley and parts west. It’s ¥1000 more expensive when

purchased in Japan.

Matsumoto 松本

%0263 / POP 245,000

The vibrant city of Matsumoto (松本) sits in a fertile valley, with the

magnificent northern Japan Alps, in all their splendour, to the west. Formerly

known as Fukashi, Nagano Prefecture’s second-largest city has been here since

the 8th century. In the 14th and 15th centuries it was the castle town of the

Ogasawara clan and it continued to prosper through the Edo period to the

present.

Matsumoto is an attractive, cosmopolitan place loved by both residents and

admirers from around the globe, who come to enjoy its superb castle, pretty

streets, galleries, cafes and endearing vistas. There seems to be some extra

enthusiasm for life here, with a youngish population that includes those who

have forsaken the massive cities for this regional beauty. The mountains are

close, the air is fresh and the rivers are invigoratingly cold. Matsumoto makes a

great stepping stone on your way to the Alps.

Matsumoto

1 Top Sights

1 Matsumoto-jō

B1

1 Sights

2 Nawate-dōri

B2

4 Sleeping

3 Alpico Plaza Hotel

A3

4 Marunouchi Hotel

B1

5 Nunoya Ryokan

B2

6 Ryokan Marumo

B2

5 Eating

7 Healthy Penguin Cafe

B2

8 Katsu Gen Honten

B1

9 Matsumoto Karaage Center

A3

10 Menshō Sakura

A2

11 Shin-Miyoshi

A2

12 Shizuka

B1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Eonta Jazz Bar

(see 8)

13 Matsumoto Brewery Taproom

B2

7 Shopping

14 Belle Amie Doll Shop

B2

15 Chikiri-ya Art & Craft Shop

B2

16 Nakamachi Kura-chic-kan

B2

8 Information

Matsumoto Tourist Information Center

(see 9)

8 Transport

17 Matsumoto Bus Terminal

A3

1 Sights

o Matsumoto-jō

CASTLE

( MAP ; 松本城; %0263-32-9202; www.matsumotocastle.jp; 4-1 Marunōchi; adult/child ¥610/300;

h8.30am-5pm early Sep–mid-Jul, to 6pm mid-Jul–early Sep)

Must-see Matsumoto-jō is Japan’s oldest wooden castle and one of four castles

designated National Treasures – the others are Hikone, Himeji and Inuyama.

The striking black-and-white three-turreted donjon (main keep) was completed

around 1595, earning the nickname Karasu-jō (Crow Castle). You can climb

steep steps all the way to the top, with impressive views and historical displays

on each level. Don’t miss the recently restored tsukimi yagura (moon-viewing

pavilion). The Goodwill Guide Group offers free one-hour tours by reservation.

Nawate-dōri

STREET

( MAP ; 縄手道り)

Nawate-dōri, a few blocks south from the castle, is a popular street for a stroll.

Vendors along this riverside walk sell antiques, souvenirs, and delicious tai-

yaki (filled waffles in the shape of a carp) of varying flavours. Look for the big

frog statue by the bridge.

Matsumoto City Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 松本市美術館, Matsumoto-shi Bijutsukan; %0263-39-7400; www.matsumoto-artmuse.jp;

4-2-22 Chūō; adult/child ¥410/200; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This sleek museum has a good collection of the work of Japanese artists, many

of whom hail from Matsumoto or whose art depicts scenes of the surrounding

countryside. Highlights include the striking avant-garde works of local-born,

internationally renowned Kusama Yayoi.

Japan Ukiyo-e Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 日本浮世絵美術館; %0263-47-4440; www.japan-ukiyoe-museum.com; 2206-1 Koshiba; adult/child ¥1000/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Housing more than 100,000 woodblock prints, paintings, screens and old

books, this renowned museum exhibits but a fraction of its collection. The

museum is approximately 3km from JR Matsumoto Station (about ¥1600 by

taxi) or 15 minutes’ walk from Ōniwa Station on the Alpico line (¥180, six

minutes).

Matsumoto Open-Air Architectural Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 松本市歴史の里, Matsumoto-shi Rekishi-nosato; %0263-47-4515; http://matsu-

haku.com/rekishinosato/shisetsu; 2196-1 Shimadachi; adult/child ¥400/300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Adjacent to the better-known Japan Ukiyo-e Museum, amid fields and rice

paddies beneath the gaze of the Alps, stand these five examples of striking late-

Edo- and early-Shōwa-era architecture for you to explore. The museum is

approximately 3km from JR Matsumoto Station (about ¥1600 by taxi) or 15

minutes’ walk from Ōniwa Station on the Alpico line (¥180, six minutes).

Kaichi School Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 旧開智学校, Kyū Kaichi Gakkō; %0263-32-5725; http://matsu-haku.com/kaichi; 2-4-12

Kaichi; adult/child ¥300/150; h8.30am-4.30pm daily Mar-Nov, Tue-Sun Dec-Feb)

A few blocks north of the castle, the former Kaichi School is both an Important

Cultural Property and the oldest elementary school in Japan, founded in 1873.

It opened its doors as an education museum in 1965. The building itself is an

excellent example of Meiji-era architecture.

1 Around Matsumoto

Northeast of downtown, Utsukushiga-hara Onsen (美ヶ原温泉) – not to be

confused with Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen – is a pretty spa village, with a quaint

main street and views across the valley. Asama Onsen (浅間温泉) has a

history that is said to date back to the 10th century and includes writers and

poets, though it looks quite generic now. Both areas are easily reached by bus

from Matsumoto’s bus terminal.

East of Matsumoto, the alpine plateau of Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen (美ヶ

原高原; 2000m) boasts more than 200 varieties of flora that come alive in

summer. It’s a great day trip from Matsumoto, reached via an ooh-and-aah

drive along twisty mountain roads called Azalea Line and Venus Line (open

late April to early November). A car will give you the freedom to explore the

beauty, but there’s also a bus in season (¥1500 one way, 1½ hours).

Utsukushi-ga-hara Open Air Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 美ヶ原美術館, Utsukushi-ga-hara Bijutsukan; %0263-86-2331; www.utsukushi-oam.jp; adult/child/student ¥1000/700/800; h9am-5pm late Apr-early Nov)

Atop Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen plateau you’ll find this seemingly random

sculpture garden with some 350 pieces, mostly by Japanese sculptors. The

surrounding countryside provides an inspiring backdrop. Nearby are pleasant

walks and the opportunity to see cows in pasture (a constant source of

fascination in Japan). Buses (¥1500, 1½ hours) run several times daily during

the warmer months, although a rental car is a good option if winding roads

don’t faze you.

T Tours

Goodwill Guide Group

TOURS

(%0263-32-7140; www.matsumoto-castle.jp/lang/eng/info/guide)

Phone ahead to reserve free one-hour tours of Matsumoto-jō, in English.

Reservations essential in busy holiday periods.

z Festivals & Events

Matsumoto Bonbon

PARADE

(松本ぼんぼん; https://visitmatsumoto.com/en/event; hAug)

Matsumoto’s biggest event takes place on the first Saturday in August, when

over 25,000 people of all ages perform the ‘bonbon’ dance through the streets,

well into the hot summer’s night. Be prepared to be drawn into the action.

Asama Onsen Taimatsu Matsuri

PARADE

(浅間温泉松明祭り; Torch Festival; https://asamaonsen.jp/en/eventsinformation/torchfestival;

hOct)

Around the start of October, Asama Onsen celebrates the spectacular and

slightly manic fire festival, wherein groups of men, women and children,

shouting ‘wa-sshoi!’ like a mantra, parade burning bales of hay through narrow

streets to an enormous bonfire at Misha - jinja.

Seiji Ozawa Matsumoto Festival

MUSIC

(小澤 征爾 フェスティバル松本; www.ozawa-festival.com; hmid-Aug–mid-Sep)

During this festival about a dozen classical-music concerts are held in memory

of revered Japanese conductor and music educator Saitō Hideo (1902–72).

Ozawa Seiji, conductor emeritus of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, is festival

director.

DON’T MISS

MATSUMOTO’S NAKAMACHI DISTRICT

The charming former merchant district of Nakamachi (中町) by the Metoba-gawa, with its

namako-kabe kura (lattice-walled storehouses) and Edo-period streetscapes, makes for a wonderful

stroll. Many buildings have been preserved and transformed into cafes, galleries and craft shops

specialising in wood, glass, fabric, ceramics and antiques. In particular, enjoy a stroll down

Nakamachi-dōri.

4 Sleeping

With plenty of well-priced, quality accommodation and excellent access to,

from and around the town, Matsumoto is an ideal base for exploring the Japan

Alps and the Kiso and Azumino Valleys.

Matsumoto’s downtown is compact enough that you can get around easily.

Most business hotels are by the train station, but there are some great

traditional options in picturesque Nakamachi.

o Nunoya Ryokan

INN

¥

( MAP ; ぬのや旅館; %0263-32-0545; www.mcci.or.jp/www/nunoya; 3-5-7 Chūō; r per person from

¥4500; naW)

Few inns have more heart than this simple, traditional charmer, meticulously

kept by its friendly owner. The spotless lodgings have shiny dark-wood floors,

atmospheric tatami rooms, comfy futons and shared facilities right in the heart

of Nakamachi. The rate is a bargain for this much character. You’ll need to pay

with cash here.

o Ryokan Marumo

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP ; まるも旅館; %0263-32-0115; www.avis.ne.jp/~marumo; 3-3-10 Chūō; r per person without bathroom ¥5000; aW)

Between Nakamachi and the river, this creaky wooden ryokan dates from 1868

and has lots of traditional charm, including a bamboo garden and a coffee shop.

Although the rooms aren’t huge and don’t have private facilities, it’s popular,

so book ahead.

Matsumoto BackPackers

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 松本バックパッカーズ; %0263-31-5848; www.matsumotobp.com; 1-1-6 Shiraita; dm

per person ¥3000; aW)

By the river, just a few minutes’ walk north from JR Matsumoto Station, you’ll

find this clean, friendly set-up in a converted old house with tatami-mat rooms,

futon bedding and shared facilities. There’s a coin laundry, a kitchen and

cooking utensils. These are the cheapest, most central dorm spots in town.

o Marunouchi Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP ; 丸の内ホテル; %0263-35-4500; www.matsumoto-marunouchi.com; 3-5-15 Ōte; s/d from

¥7000/11,000; aW)

It’s hard to fault this impressive hotel, occupying a prime spot near the castle.

Reasonably priced rooms are refreshingly stylish and comfortable. Deluxe

rooms approach Western standard sizes, while standard rooms are more

compact but cheaper. Suites are a nice option for those who want something

special. Some rooms even have castle views.

Alpico Plaza Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP ; アルピコプラザホテル; %0263-36-5055; www.alpico-plaza-hotel.jp; 1-3-21 Fukashi; s/d from ¥7000/10,800; paW)

These folks have the bases covered: this is an extremely practical and

convenient business hotel next to the Alpico Plaza building and bus terminal.

No surprises here, with standard hotel rooms, laundry facilities (great if you’ve

been hiking!), parking (¥1100 per night), and restaurants within a short stroll.

Matsumoto Station is a two-minute walk away.

5 Eating

The area immediately opposite the train station is where you’ll find izakaya

(barrestaurant) and restaurant mainstays. Cafes and eateries also line the banks

of the Metoba-gawa and Nakamachi-dōri.

o Shin-Miyoshi

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP ; 新三よし; %0263-39-0141; http://sinmiyoshi.com; 1-7-17 Chūō; plates from ¥600; h5-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

Head to Shin-Miyoshi (New Miyoshi), established in 1999, to try everyone’s

favourite Nagano delicacy: horse meat. The first Miyoshi restaurant got going

in 1899, and there are brilliant historical photos on the walls; the decor and

furniture have been made to feel as if they’re from older days. It’s incredibly

popular with locals. Try the basashi (horsemeat sashimi).

o Healthy Penguin Cafe

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; %090-4153-8575; www.facebook.com/healthypenguincafe; 4-3-25 Ōte; plates from ¥700;

h11am-5pm Thu-Mon, to 7pm Sat & Sun; v)

This cute little cafe on a tiny side street off atmospheric old Nawate-dõri gets

rave reviews for plates such as smashed avo toast (¥700) and cinnamon French

toast (¥750). Desserts, plus organic coffees, teas, wine and craft beer round out

an inspiring menu. A top spot for vegetarians and vegans. Look for the

signboard out on Nawate-dōri.

o Matsumoto Karaage Center

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP ; 松本からあげセンター; %0263-87-2229; www.karacen.com; 1-1-1 Fukashi; lunch & dinner sets from ¥780; h10am-8.30pm)

This wildly popular 4th-floor (above Midori in the station building) shrine to

karaage (deep-fried chicken) is a must, with tender, juicy boneless chicken

waiting to melt in your mouth. Try the local speciality, Sanzoku-yaki (山賊焼):

crunchy chicken katsu. If you can’t get a seat, there’s a standing-only version

of this place in the line-up out front of JR Matsumoto Station.

Katsu Gen Honten

TONKATSU

¥

( MAP ; かつ玄本店; %0263-32-2430; www15.plala.or.jp/katsugen; 4-9-7 Ōte; set lunch from ¥900;

h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm)

If you’re into tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet), try to find this place a block

south of the southeastern corner of Matsumoto Castle park. There’s a black pig

on the sign hanging outside, plus an English menu. An old wooden interior

with matching tables and chairs produces a soothing ambience, and the quality

of the food is outstanding.

Menshō Sakura

RAMEN

¥

( MAP ; 麺匠佐蔵; %0263-34-1050; 1-20-26 Chūō; ramen from ¥760; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm)

Miso and ramen fans shouldn’t go past this purveyor of fine noodles in a cute

little building opposite the Richmond Hotel. Misorāmen and black Kuro-miso

rāmen are the specialities of the house: both are rated highly. The gyōza are

crunchy and the beer is cold. Ask the friendly staff for help with the vending

machine if you get stuck.

Shizuka

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP ; しづか; %0263-32-0547; www.shiduka.co.jp; 4-10-8 Ōte; plates from ¥480; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)

This wonderfully traditional izakaya serves favourites such as oden (a stew

comprising fishcakes, tofu, vegetables and eggs simmered in a kelp-flavoured

broth) and yakitori (grilled skewers of meat or vegetables), as well as

specialities that may be more challenging for Western palates, in a great

location near the castle.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

o Matsumoto Brewery Taproom

CRAFT BEER

( MAP ; マツモトブルワリー タップルーム; %0263-31-0081; http://matsu-brew.com; 3-4-

21 Chūō; h1-7pm Wed-Mon)

Tasty local brews, highlighted by the Awesome! Pale Ale, can be enjoyed in a

delightful two-storey taproom in a lovely old building in Nakamachi. There’s a

second location on the 3rd floor of the new Media Building – you can relax on

the terrace looking out over downtown Matsumoto.

o Eonta Jazz Bar

BAR

( MAP ; エオンタ; %0263-33-0505; 4-9-7 Ōte; h4pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

If you like jazz, it doesn’t get any better than Eonta, a tiny 15-seater upstairs,

directly above Katsu Gen restaurant. The friendly owner has been running his

bar since 1974 and likes his jazz, chosen from over 4000 vinyl records and

1000 CDs, at a decent volume. He serves carefully brewed coffees as well as

beer, wine and cocktails.

WORTH A TRIP

A NIGHT ABOVE THE CLOUDS

If you’re looking for something a little bit different, along the lines of isolation and indulgence,

there are two very special places to rest your weary head in the mountains above Matsumoto. From

April to November, consider a night at the singular Ougatou Hotel ( MAP ; 王ヶ頭ホテル;

%0263-31-2751; www.ougatou.jp; Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen; d per person incl 2 meals from

¥16,500; paW) atop the beautiful Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen. Rooms are plush, comfy and reasonably

priced for their standard. Oversized suites have decadent baths overlooking the plateau and the

cloud line: you’ll think you’re on cloud nine as you wake.

For something a little pricier, fancier and more traditional, the exclusive Tobira Onsen Myōjin-

kan ( MAP ; 扉温泉明神館; %0263-31-2301; http://myojinkan.tobira-group.com; 8967

Iriyamabe; s/d per person incl 2 meals from ¥32,500/26,000; paW) has been nestled quietly in the

mountains above Matsumoto (en route to Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen) since 1931. There’s a variety

of room types: many have private onsen baths, and each enjoys wonderful vistas of the natural

surrounds. The communal indoor and outdoor baths will leave you feeling as though you’re

floating on air. For your investment, expect nothing less than exquisite French food and kaiseki

(Japanese haute cuisine) and the epitome of customer service.

Both rare gems are best enjoyed with the freedom of a rental car.

7 Shopping

Matsumoto is synonymous with temari (embroidered balls) and doll-making.

Takasago street, one block south of Nakamachi, has several doll shops.

o Chikiri-ya Art & Craft Shop

GLASS

( MAP ; ちきりや工芸店; %0263-33-2522; 3-4-18 Chūō; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue)

Glass and pottery aficionados will find this wonderful boutique on Nakamachi-

dōri a must.

Belle Amie Doll Shop

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP ; ベラミ人形店; %0263-33-1314; 3-7-23 Chūō; h10am-6pm)

Temari and dolls are found here, about 500m east of the station. Doll styles

include Tanabata and oshie-bina (dressed in fine cloth).

Nakamachi Kura-chic-kan

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP ; 中町・蔵シック館; %0263-36-3053; http://nakamachi-street.com/kurassickan; 2-9-15

Chūō; h9am-5pm)

A pun on ‘classic’ in English, ‘ kura (storehouses)’ in Japanese and ‘chic’ in

French, Nakamachi Kura-chic-kan showcases locally produced arts and crafts

on Nakamachi-dōri.

8 Information

Matsumoto Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; 松本市観光案内所; %0263-32-

2814; https://visitmatsumoto.com/en; 1-1-1 Fukashi; h9am-5.45pm) This excellent TIC inside JR Matsumoto Station has friendly English-speaking staff and a wide range of

well-produced English-language materials on the area.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Shinshū Matsumoto Airport (MMJ; MAP ; www.matsumoto-airport.co.jp) has daily flights to Fukuoka, Osaka and Sapporo.

An airport shuttle bus connects Shinshū Matsumoto Airport with downtown

(¥600, 25 minutes); a taxi costs around ¥5000.

BUS

Alpico (www.alpico.co.jp) runs buses between Matsumoto and Shinjuku in

Tokyo (¥3400, 3¼ hours, hourly), Osaka (¥5850, 5¾ hours, two daily; one

longer overnight service) and Nagoya (from ¥3600, 3½ hours, 10 daily). Nōhi

Bus services Takayama (¥3900, 2½ hours, at least six daily). Reservations are

advised.

The Matsumoto Bus Terminal ( MAP ) is in the Alpico Plaza building

opposite and slightly to the right as you exit JR Matsumoto Station.

TRAIN

‘Matsumotooo…Matsumotooo…’ is connected with Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station

( tokkyū ¥6900, 2¾ hours, hourly), Nagoya ( tokkyū ¥6030, two hours) and

Nagano (Shinano tokkyū ¥2840, 50 minutes; Chūō futsū ¥1140, 1¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Matsumoto-jō and the city centre are easily explored on foot and free bicycles

are available for loan – enquire at the Tourist Information Center. Four ‘Town

Sneaker’ loop bus routes operate between 8am and 5.30pm for ¥200 per ride

(¥500 per day); the North and East routes cover the castle and Nakamachi.

Azumino 安曇野

%0263 / POP 95,000

An easy day trip north from Matsumoto, Azumino (安曇野) sits just east of

the northern Japan Alps and has some interesting things going on. Hikers

and onsen-seekers are close to heaven here, while foodies can visit Japan’s

largest wasabi farm to try wasabi wine and ice cream. Cute little JR Hotaka

Station, 30 minutes north of Matsumoto, is the place to start your

adventuring.

1 Sights

o Chihiro Art Museum Azumino

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 安曇野ちひろ美術館; %0261-62-0772; https://chihiro.jp/en/azumino; 3358-24 Nishi-

hara, Matsukawa; ¥800; h9am-5pm Thu-Tue)

This popular art museum showcases the work of Chihiro Iwasaki (1918–74),

who became world-renowned while specialising in children’s-book

illustrations from the late 1950s until her death in 1974. Built in Azumino

because Chihiro’s parents came from Nagano, the museum is surrounded by

a gorgeous park and is best accessed from Shinano-Matsukawa Station on

the JR Ōito line. Its sister museum is the Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo, built

on the site where the illustrator lived and worked in the capital.

Dai-ō Wasabi-Nōjo

FARM

( MAP ; 大王わさび農場; %0263-82-2118; www.daiowasabi.co.jp; 3640 Hotaka; h9am-5pm) F

Fancy some wasabi wine or ice cream? This farm, a 15-minute bike ride

from JR Hotaka Station, is a must for wasabi-lovers. An English map guides

you among wasabi plants (130 tonnes of wasabi are grown in flooded fields

here annually) amid rolling hills, restaurants, shops and workspaces. It’s a

fascinating and fun place for a stroll, but there’s a huge bus park out the

front, so be mentally prepared for lots of other visitors.

Rokuzan Bijutsukan

GALLERY

(碌山美術館; %0263-82-2094; www.rokuzan.jp; 5095-1 Hotaka; adult/child ¥700/300; h9am-

5pm)

Ten minutes’ walk north from JR Hotaka Station, Rokuzan Bijutsukan

showcases the work of Meiji-era sculptor Rokuzan Ogiwara (1879–1910;

aka the ‘Rodin of the Orient’) and his Japanese contemporaries in a

delightful garden setting. Rokuzan is said to have learned the essence of

sculpture from Rodin in Paris in the early 1900s and brought modern

sculpture to Japan.

2 Activities

Jōnen-dake

HIKING

(常念岳; https://japanhike.wordpress.com/2008/03/03/mt-jonen)

From JR Hotaka Station it’s a 30-minute (around ¥5000) taxi ride to reach

the Ichinosawa trailhead, from where experienced hikers can climb Jōnen-

dake (2857m), one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains. This is a summer-

only hike with a 1500m climb, so hikers must be properly prepared. Maps

are available at the Tourist Information Center, although the detailed ones

are in Japanese.

There are many options for hikes extending over several days, but you

must do your homework before you go.

4 Sleeping

There are some lovely ryokan dotted about the valley, plus rustic mountain

lodgings as you edge your way towards the peaks and into the Hotaka Onsen

area at the foot of the mountains.

o Nakabusa Onsen

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(中房温泉; %0263-77-1488; www.nakabusa.com; 7226 Nakabusa; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥10,000; hApr-Nov; paW)

This rambling resort with indoor and outdoor onsen at the end of a twisting

valley road to nowhere will delight anyone seeking a peaceful retreat. The

older honkan (main building) has basic rooms, while the newer bekkan

(annexe) is more comfortable. In late autumn gawk at stunningly colourful

foliage from deep in the valley.

Day trippers can use one of the smaller rotemburo (¥700) between 9.30am

and 4pm. Enquire at the Tourist Information Center for info on the limited

buses (¥1700, one hour) from Azumino, or rent a car (and bring nerves of

steel). This place is extremely remote. Nakabusa Onsen is also the trailhead

for a stunningly steep climb up to Otensho-dake (大天井岳; 2922m) and

Tsubakuro-dake (燕岳; 2762m).

Ariake-sō

LODGE

¥ ¥

(有明荘; %0263-84-6511; www.enzanso.co.jp/ariakeso; Ariake-Nakabusa, Hotaka; r per person incl

2 meals from ¥10,000; hApr-late Nov; paW)

Near the end of the road to Nakabusa Onsen, this seasonal forest lodge has

basic, dorm-style rooms and a nourishing onsen (day use ¥600). The lodge is

at 1380m and well out there in terms of remoteness. It’s best to have your

own wheels.

Oyado Nagomino

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP ; お宿なごみ野; %0263-81-5566; www.oyado-nagomino.com; 3618-44 Hotaka-ariake; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥19,440; paW)

In a lovely forested setting, this attractive modern ryokan is an oasis at the

foot of the mountains in Hotaka Onsen. Although little English is spoken,

staff members go to great lengths to ensure a pleasant stay. Guest rooms are

typically styled, but the real draws are the delightful communal baths and the

exceptional kaiseki, with seasonal menus.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (観光案内所; %0263-82-9363; www.azumino-e-

tabi.net/en; 5952-3 Hotaka; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov, 10am-4pm Dec-Mar) This friendly, home-

proud tourist office opposite JR Hotaka Station has helpful English-speaking

staff and will sort out rental bicycles – a great way to explore the area. Its

local-sightseeing map has a number of suggested bicycle routes. Be sure to

check out the excellent English homepage.

8 Getting There & Away

Hotaka is the gateway city to the Azumino valley. JR Hotaka Station is 30

minutes ( futsū ¥320) from Matsumoto on the JR Ōito line.

Shirahone Onsen 白骨温泉

%0263

Intimate, dramatic and straddling a deep gorge high in the mountains about

halfway between Matsumoto and Takayama, Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉) is

one of Japan’s most beautiful onsen hamlets – heavenly during autumn and a

wonderland in winter. Onsen ryokan with open-air baths surround the gorge.

It’s said that bathing in the silky, milky-blue hydrogen-sulphide waters of

Shirahone (meaning ‘white bone’) for three days ensures three years without

a cold.

2 Activities

Kōkyō Notemburo

ONSEN

(公共野天風呂; %0263-93-3251; ¥500; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov)

Deep within the gorge, this exquisite, gender-segregated riverside rotemburo

is a stunner. Closed at research time, it was due to be completely done up by

mid-2019. The entrance is by steep stairs near the bus stop. Brilliant for day

trippers.

4 Sleeping

Lodging here is in a cluster of rustic ryokan, all with high rates and all

extremely popular in the fall-foliage season around October. Book ahead.

Tsuruya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(つるや旅館; %0263-93-2331; www.shirahonetsuruya.com; 4202-6 Shirahone Onsen; r per

person incl 2 meals & without bathroom from ¥15,000; paW)

Lovely Tsuruya Ryokan has both contemporary and traditional touches and

great indoor and outdoor baths. Each of its 28 rooms has lovely views of the

gorge; rooms with private toilet and sink are available for an extra charge.

Book in advance.

o Awanoyu Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(泡の湯旅館; %0263-93-2101; www.awanoyu-ryokan.com; 4181 Shirahone Onsen; r per person

incl 2 meals from ¥28,000; paW)

Awanoyu Ryokan typifies mountain onsen ryokan. Uphill from Shirahone, it

has been an inn since 1912 (the current building dates from 1940). Light-

filled guest rooms have private facilities. There are also single-sex common

baths and konyoku (mixed bathing); the waters are so milky that you can’t

see below the surface, so don’t be shy. Reservations essential.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (白骨温泉観光案内所; %0263-93-3251;

www.shirahone.org; 4197-4 Azumino; h9am-5pm) The TIC, by the bus stop, maintains a

list of inns that open their baths (from ¥600) to the public each day.

8 Getting There & Away

To get to Shirahone Onsen from Matsumoto, ask at Alpico Bus at the bus

terminal. There are a few buses from Matsumoto per day, or take a train to

Shin-Shimashima Station (¥700, 30 minutes), then catch a bus to Shirahone

Onsen (¥1450, 70 minutes).

It takes just over an hour to drive from Matsumoto or Takayama to

Shirahone Onsen.

Kamikōchi 上高地

%0263

Mention Kamikōchi to Japanese outdoors enthusiasts and their eyes will

light up. They’ll tell you that this is where it’s at and where you should be. In

the late 19th century, foreigners ‘discovered’ this remote valley and

mountainous region and coined the term ‘Japan Alps’. British missionary

Reverend Walter Weston toiled from peak to peak and sparked Japanese

interest in mountaineering as a sport. He’s now honoured with a festival on

the first Sunday in June, the official opening of the hiking season.

It’s feasible to visit as a day trip, but you’ll miss out on the pleasures of

staying in the mountains and taking uncrowded early-morning or late-

afternoon walks. Stay overnight and savour the snowcapped peaks, bubbling

brooks, wild monkeys, wildflowers and ancient forests.

Kamikōchi is closed from 15 November to 22 April. In midsummer and

autumn-foliage season, the area around Kappa-bashi bridge may seem busier

than Shinjuku Station.

Kamikōchi | SUCHART BOONYAVECH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NEED TO KNOW: KAMIKŌCHI

Be prepared before you arrive in Kamikōchi, especially if you’re heading out hiking. Bring cash

with you, as there’s no ATM. There are souvenir shops, but no supermarket or convenience

store. There’s a baggage-storage counter at the bus terminal.

4 Sleeping

Accommodation in hotels and lodges in Kamikōchi is expensive, and

advance reservations are essential, especially during Japanese holiday

periods. There are a number of camping areas in the valley at varying

distances from Kappa-bashi, including at Konashidaira, Tokusawa and Yokō.

Dotted along the trails and around the mountains are dozens of yamagoya

(huts), which provide two meals and a futon from around ¥8000 per person;

some also serve simple lunches.

Konashishidaira Camping Retreat

CAMPGROUND

¥

(森のリゾート小梨, Mori no rizōto Konashi; %0260-95-2321; www.nihonalpskankou.com;

4468 Kamikōchi; campsites/cabins per person from ¥800/6000; hoffice 7am-7pm)

About 200m past the Kamikōchi Visitor Centre, this campground can get

crowded. Rental tents are available from ¥7000, and there’s a small shop, a

restaurant and a public bath. There are lots of options: check them out on the

good English website.

o Tokusawa-en

INN

¥ ¥

(徳澤園; %0260-95-2508; www.tokusawaen.com; per person incl 2 meals dm ¥12,000, d from

¥16,500; hMay-Oct)

This marvellously secluded place is in a wooded dell 7km northeast of

Kappabashi. It’s both a campground (¥700 per person) and a lodge, and has

capsule-style dorm rooms, Japanese-style rooms (with shared facilities), and

hearty meals served in a busy dining hall. There’s a nice bath, a cafe and a

small shop. Access is by walking only (about two hours).

o Kamikōchi Nishi-itoya Sansō

INN

¥ ¥

(上高地西糸屋山荘; %0260-95-2206; www.nishiitoya.com; 4469-1 Kamikōchi; per person

incl 2 meals dm from ¥9000, d from ¥22,000; naW)

This friendly lodge, west of Kappa-bashi, dates from the early 20th century.

The main-building rooms are a mix of Japanese and Western styles. The

dorm rooms in the annexe building are the best deal in Kamikōchi if you’re

on a budget and don’t want to go camping. The shared bath faces the Hotaka

peaks. There’s a cosy lounge.

Kamikochi Imperial Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(上高地帝国ホテル; %0260-95-2001; www.imperialhotel.co.jp; Azumino Kamikochi; r from

¥30,700; aW)

Expect exceptional service and rustic, European Alps–styled rooms in this

historic red-gabled lodge completed in 1933. Prices are elevated, but a wide

range of stay plans are available, and the hotel occasionally offers excellent

packages including French haute cuisine. You may have to book a year

ahead.

Kamikōchi Gosenjaku Hotel & Lodge

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(上高地五千尺ホテル・ロッヂ; %hotel 0260-95-2111, lodge 0260-95-2221;

www.gosenjaku.co.jp; 4468 Kamikōchi; r per person incl 2 meals in lodge from ¥19,200, in hotel from

¥25,100; aW)

Part of the Alpico Group, this complex has things nicely covered with its

hotel on the bus-station side of Kappa-bashi and its lodge on the far side.

The lodge has Japanesestyle rooms with sink and toilet; baths are shared.

The hotel is more upscale, with a combination of comfortable Western and

Japanese rooms, some with balconies.

HIKING & CLIMBING IN KAMIKŌCHI

If you’re surprised by crowds of photo-taking visitors at Kamikōchi, especially at Kappa-bashi,

keep in mind that 95% of visitors go no further than 500m from the bridge!

Kamikōchi and its Azusa river valley offer some extremely enjoyable, level, signposted

walks. For a decent valley-walks map in English, check out www.kamikochi.org/plan/trekking.

For a fun one-hour walk from the far side of Kappa-bashi, amble downriver to Weston Relief (a

monument to Walter Weston; 15 minutes), cross the Azusa-gawa on the Hotaka-bashi and walk

upriver back to Kappa-bashi.

A good four-hour hike begins at the bus-station side of Kappa-bashi and heads upriver past

Myōjin-bashi (one hour). Over the far side of the Myōjin-bashi, the idyllic Myōjin-ike (pond)

marks the innermost shrine of Hotaka-jinja (¥300). From Myōjin-bashi, continue on upriver to

Tokusawa (another hour) before returning the same way.

Most serious hikers and climbers have the peaks of Oku-hotaka-dake and/or Yariga-take in

their sights. These are Japan’s third- and fifth-highest mountains, and the three-day hike from

Kamikōchi, climbing ‘Yari’ (3180m), traversing the Daikiretto (a legendary hole in the ridge

line), topping Oku-hotaka-dake (3190m) and then dropping back into Kamikōchi, is the holy

grail for Japanese hikers. Be very well prepared, do your homework and watch the weather

forecasts if you’re going to take this on.

Long-distance hikes vary in duration and have access to mountain huts; enquire at the Tourist

Information Center for details. Japanese-language maps of the area show routes and average

hiking times between huts, major peaks and landmarks. Serious hikers could also consider a

five- to seven-day length-of-the-north-Japan-Alps trek to Kamikōchi from Murodō on the

Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route.

In winter, deserted Kamikōchi makes a beautiful cross-country-skiing spot for the initiated:

hike in from the entrance to the Kama Tunnel on Rte 158.

5 Eating

The bus station has a small selection of eateries, but there’s little beyond

that. Unless you’re camping, you’ll be dining at your lodge in the evenings.

Kamonji-goya

SHOKUDO

$

(嘉門次小屋; %0263-95-2418; www.kamonjigoya.wordpress.com; dishes from ¥600; h8.30am-4pm)

Kamikōchi’s signature dish is iwana (river trout) grilled whole over an irori.

This is the place to try it. The iwana set is ¥1500, or there’s oden, soba and

kotsu- sake (dried iwana in sake) served in a lovely ceramic bowl. There are

also simple dorm rooms here. It’s just outside the entrance to Myōjin-ike.

8 Information

INSURANCE

Serious hikers should consider insurance (保険, hoken; from ¥1000 per day),

available at Kamikōchi bus station.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Kamikōchi Tourist Information Center (上高地インフォメーションセ

ンター; %0260-95-2433; www.kamikochi.org; h8am-5pm) This invaluable resource at

the bus-station complex has English speakers on hand, provides information

on hiking and weather conditions, and distributes the English-language

Kamikōchi Pocket Guide, with a map of the main walking tracks.

Kamikōchi Visitor Centre (上高地ビジターセンター; %0260-95-2606;

www.kamikochi-vc.or.jp/en; h8am-5pm) Ten minutes’ walk from Kamikōchi bus

station along the main trail, this is the place for information on Kamikōchi’s

flora, fauna, geology and history. You can also book guided walks to

destinations including Taishō-ike and Myōjin-ike (from ¥500 per person).

8 Getting There & Away

Visitors arrive at Kamikōchi’s sprawling bus station. A 10-minute walk

along the Azusa-gawa takes you to Kappa-bashi, a bridge named after a

legendary water sprite.

Private vehicles are prohibited between Naka-no-yu and Kamikōchi;

access is only by bus or taxi as far as the Kamikōchi bus station. Those with

private cars can use car parks en route to Naka-no-yu in the hamlet of

Sawando for ¥500 per day; shuttle buses (¥2500 return) run a few times per

hour.

Buses run via Naka-no-yu and Taishō-ike to the bus station. Hiking trails

commence at Kappa-bashi, which is a short walk from the bus station.

Hakuba 白馬

%02610 / POP 9000

In a long north–south valley east of the northern Japan Alps, vibrant Hakuba

(白馬), site of various skiing events at the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, is

wholeheartedly embracing adventure tourism to become a year-round visitor

hot spot. It’s long been a winter destination, based on seven ski areas, but

visitors now arrive in other seasons for hiking, mountain-biking, paragliding

and all sorts of other activities. Hakuba’s boom is the envy of other resort

towns keen to make an all-season living. Foreigners are turning up in droves,

especially in winter, spawning new development in restaurants, bars and

low-cost accommodation. There are many onsen in and around Hakuba, and

a long soak after a day of action is the perfect way to ease aching muscles.

Facilities are spread the length of the valley, close to the various ski areas,

with popular Happō and the Hakuba Station area around mid-valley.

2 Activities

o Happō-One Ski Resort

SKIING

(八方尾根スキー所; %0261-72-3066; www.happo-one.jp; 1-day lift ticket ¥5200; hDec-Apr)

Host of the downhill races at the 1998 Winter Olympics, Happō-One is one

of Japan’s top ski areas, with superb mountain views and beginner,

intermediate and advanced runs catering to skiers and snowboarders. For the

low-down, check the excellent Englishlanguage homepage.

With a total of 23 lifts, half the terrain is rated intermediate. The resthouse

at the top of the ‘Adam’ gondola, Usagidaira 109, is the ski area’s centre

point, with two chairlifts from there heading up to the highest elevation of

1830m.

From Hakuba Station, a five-minute bus ride (¥260) straight up the hill

takes you into the middle of the lively little village of Happo-mura. In

winter, shuttles make the rounds of the village, lodges and ski base.

Goodguides

ADVENTURE SPORTS

(%080-8629-3739; https://goodguides.co.nz; 14920-159 Ochikura)

This outfit operates excellent backcountry skiing and snowshoeing

adventures from a base near the Tsugaike slopes in Hakuba. With a ton of

experience and qualified guides, it’ll take you to where the snow is best and

give you a top backcountry adventure to savour.

Mimizuku-no-yu

ONSEN

(みみずくの湯; %0261-72-6542; www.hakubahappo-onsen.jp/mimizukunoyu; 5480-1 Hokujō

Happō-guchi; adult/child ¥600/300; h10am-9.30pm, enter by 9pm)

It’s often said that this place – one of Hakuba’s many onsen – has the best

mountain views from the tub.

Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park & Hakuba Goryū Ski Resort

SKIING

(Hakuba47ウインタースポーツパーク・白馬五竜スキー場;

www.hakuba47.co.jp; 1-day lift ticket ¥5000; hDec-Apr)

The interlinked areas of Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park and Hakuba Goryū

Ski Resort form the second major ski resort in the Hakuba area, south of

Happo. There’s a good variety of terrain in both areas, with about an equal

number of skiers and boarders. Like Happō-One, this area boasts fantastic

mountain views.

A free shuttle bus from Hakuba-mura and JR Hakuba Station provides the

easiest access.

Evergreen Outdoor

OUTDOORS

(%0261-72-5150; www.evergreen-hakuba.com; 4377 Hokujō; half-day tours from ¥4000) There are lots of things going on with these friendly, outdoorsy folk

throughout the year. Winter offerings include ski school, backcountry tours

and snowshoeing, while the green season brings canyoning, rafting,

kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, mountain biking, tree climbing, hiking

and more. Headquarters is uphill from Hakuba Tokyu Hotel. Check out all

the options on the English website.

Hakuba Cortina Ski Resort

SKIING

(白馬コルチナスキー場; www.hakubacortina.jp/ski; 1-day lift ticket ¥4000; hDec-Apr)

At the northern end of the valley, Hakuba Cortina is popular with Japanese

families, who revel in the resort’s facilities – a massive, ski-in European-

style structure with hotel, restaurants, ski rental and deluxe onsen – and

those who want quieter slopes. Its seven lifts and 16 courses cater to all

levels of skier.

HIKING IN HAKUBA

In summer you can take the Happō Adam gondola and the two upper chairlifts, then hike up a

trail for an hour or so to Happō-ike, on a ridge below Karamatsu-dake (唐松岳; 2695m). From

here, follow a trail another hour up to Maru-yama, continue for 1½ hours to the Karamatsu-

dake San-sō (mountain hut) and then climb to the peak of Karamatsu-dake in about 30 minutes.

Come back down the same way.

Shirouma-dake (白馬岳; 2932m) is one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains and looms high

over Hakuba. For the well prepared it’s a marvellous two-day hike with a 1700m climb and one

of Japan’s biggest mountain huts near the peak. Check www.japan-

guide.com/blog/peaks/170904.html for details.

4 Sleeping

Hakuba has a huge selection of accommodation to suit all budgets. Book

well ahead if you’re arriving at busy times, such as January–March and July

and August. Be aware that places to stay are spread the length of the valley:

you may want to check exactly where you’re staying before you book. Many

places run free transfers to/from the station, the bus terminal and ski areas in

winter.

o Kamoshika Views

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(カモシカブユーズ; %070-4003-0723; www.skilodgehakuba.com; 9464-378 Oaza Hokujō;

dm/r from ¥3000/8000; paW)

Russ the Kiwi has everything covered in Donguri, high above Hakuba. The

dorm rooms are tight, but communal lounge, kitchen and party rooms make

this a top spot. Russ runs complimentary train/bus-station and ski-area

transfers, and also shuttles visitors on supermarket runs for food and drink

supplies. If you’re lucky, you might spot monkeys out the window.

Snowbeds B&B

HOSTEL

¥

(%0261-72-5242; www.snowbedsjapan.com; 2937-304 Hokujo; dm/d from ¥3900/9800; paW) This foreign-run backpackers has decent budget bunk rooms, simple double

rooms and a nice communal area with a wood stove. It’s close to the

nightlife in Echoland, with restaurants and bars just down the road.

o Backcountry Lodge Hakuba

LODGE

¥ ¥

(バックカントリーロッジ白馬; %050-3497-9595; http://backcountry-hakuba.com;

14718-174 Hokujō; per person incl breakfast from ¥8000; pnaW)

Eric and Fumi’s place is an extremely friendly spot to stay, away from the

rush of resort-town Hakuba and north of most of the in-town action, near the

Tsugaike slopes. They run free transfers from/to Hakuba Station and to the

slopes and are lovingly refurbishing their backcountry lodge. Rooms are

spacious, communal areas inviting, and the breakfast wonderful.

o Hotel Hifumi

HOTEL, RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(ホテルひふみ; %0261-72-8411; www.hakubahifumi.jp; 4998 Happō; r per person incl breakfast from ¥12,000; paW)

This compact, family-run establishment extends the feeling of family to its

guests and welcomes visitors from around the world. Beautifully designed

and recently renovated rooms are a fusion of modern and traditional styles;

some come with private outdoor baths, making this one of Hakuba’s most

rewarding places to stay. It’s in Happō, near the bus terminal and Happo-One

ski area.

Shiroumaso

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(白馬荘; %0261-72-2121; www.shiroumaso.com; 5004 Happō; s/d incl breakfast from

¥10,030/17,900; paW)

This lovely little ryokan in Happō has smart, though compact, traditionally

styled rooms with lots of hinoki (cypress) detailing and lovely views. Only a

couple of minutes’ walk from the bus terminal and close to Happō0-One’s

Adam gondola.

Hakuba Panorama Hotel

INN

¥ ¥

(白馬パノラマホテル; %0261-85-4031; www.hakuba-panorama.com; 3322-1 Hokujō; d per

person incl breakfast from ¥7000; paW)

Not far from Happō-One Ski Resort, this place has bilingual Japanese staff

and a variety of room types. There’s a guest laundry and a wonderful onsen.

Best of all, though, is the ground-floor Hakuba Taproom, with craft beer, big

screens for sports and frequent live music. You know it’s good when locals

come here, too.

o Ridge Hotel & Apartments

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(%0261-85-4301; www.theridgehakuba.com; 4608 Hakuba; d/apt from ¥25,000/42,000; paW) Sophisticated, sexy and stylish, this stunning property has it all, year-round:

location, amenities, views. Room types range from the sublime (Western-

style rooms with Japanese elements) to the ridiculous (a gorgeous loft

balcony suite). Obliging, attentive staff speak English well. Built as

accommodation in the upmarket Wadano area for the imperial family during

the 1998 Winter Olympics.

Hakuba Tokyu Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(白馬東急ホテル; %0261-72-3001; www.hakubah.tokyuhotels.co.jp; Happō-wadano; s/d with breakfast from ¥20,000/28,000; paW)

This elegant, year-round, top-class hotel has large rooms with great views

and a wonderful garden that’s popular for weddings. The Grand Spa boasts

the highest alkaline content in the area, and there are both French and

Japanese restaurants. It’s in a good location in the Wadano area, near the

Happō-One lifts.

5 Eating

There’s plenty to choose from around the area’s resorts, with new options

popping up all the time. Happō and Echoland offer plenty of eating, drinking

and nightlife opportunities. Hours vary with the seasons.

o Hie Izakaya

IZAKAYA

¥

(居酒屋 稗; %0261-72-8035; 3020-868 Hokujō; dishes from ¥400; h6-11pm Fri-Wed)

This lovely little izakaya in Echoland is so popular that you’ll need to make

a booking; get your accommodation owner to set you up at least a day ahead.

Expect all the usual izakaya fare here on a useful English menu, but you’ll

also find house specials such as seared tuna and avocado. Cosy atmosphere

next to Mockingbird Bar.

o Zen

SOBA

¥

(膳; %0261-72-3637; http://zen.artbi.net; 3020-49 Hokujō; dishes from ¥400; h11am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Thu-Tue)

A top spot both at lunchtime, when soba-noodle dishes are to the fore, and in

the evening, when Zen morphs into an izakaya, this place oozes Japanese

atmosphere, with both tatami-mat seating and tables. Extremely popular with

locals and visitors, it’s about halfway between Happō and Echoland. Try the

seared Nagano beef (¥1170).

Sounds Like Cafe

CAFE

¥

(%0261-72-2040; 3020-504 Hokujō; coffee from ¥350, breakfast items from ¥450; h8am-6pm Sat-

Wed)

Breakfast, lunch and lattes done Aussiestyle keep hungry patrons coming

back for more at this popular spot in Echoland. It’s about as authentically

Western as a cafe can be in Japan, and the food and coffee are top notch.

Ohyokkuri

JAPANESE

¥

(おひょっくり; %0261-72-2661; 5081 Hokujō; meals from ¥650; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm)

Self-billed as ‘Grandma’s Hakuba home-style cooking’, Ohyokkuri serves

hearty soups and stews and traditional local dishes to an adoring crowd in

the heart of Happō village.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

The rugged, sporty folk who hang around Hakuba have been known to down

a beer or two at the end of a hard day’s skiing or adventuring. Popular local

brews from Hakuba Brewing Company (www.hakubabrewery.com) can be

tried in bars all over town.

When the powder’s deep, there’s usually live evening entertainment

somewhere on the slopes and nightclub-style shenanigans at weekends.

o Mocking Bird

BAR

(モッキンバード; %0261-85-2450; www.mockingbird.jp; 3020-868 Hokujō; h5pm-1am Thu-

Tue)

This Echoland favourite has a cosy, naturalwood, log-cabin vibe about it,

offering a solid range of drinks and pub food on an English menu with great

music. It’s extremely popular: you might find it hard to get in during the

winter months.

Hakuba Brew Pub

PUB

(%0261-85-2414; www.hakubabrewpub.com; 11420-1 Hokujō; hnoon-10.30pm winter)

It’s hard to go wrong when you’re at the bottom of the Iwatake slopes and

are home base for the local brew, Hakuba Beer. This winteronly place is a

top spot, offering good pub food plus the full range of Hakuba Beer on tap,

plus a pick-up and drop-off service (¥200).

Lucky Pete’s Bar & Cafe

SPORTS BAR

(%0261-85-4458; Hakuba-eki; h11am-9pm; c)

This chilled-out, family-friendly, smoke-free bar to your right as you exit JR

Habuka Station serves juicy original burgers and comfort-food favourites,

along with plenty of snow-cold beer. Hours vary outside ski season.

8 Information

Northern Alps Information Center (北アルプス総合案内所; %0261-72-3000;

www.kita-alps.com; h8am-5pm) On the left as you exit JR Hakuba Station, this

place has English pamphlets and maps – and if your timing is right, an

English speaker.

Happō Information Center (%0261-72-3066; h6am-6pm summer, to 9pm winter) This

place in the Happō Bus Station is a gold mine for visitors arriving by bus,

with foreign-language brochures, maps and speakers. It also has rental

bicycles that can be returned to Hakuba Sanroku Tours near the station.

Hakuba Sanroku Tours (白馬山麓ツアーズ; %0261-72-6900; www.hakuba1.com;

h9am-5pm) These folks run a tourist-information service for the town of

Hakuba, over the main road and 100m up on the right straight ahead as you

exit JR Hakuba Station. They run tours, can help with finding

accommodation and have rental bicycles that can be returned to the Happō

Information Center at the Happō Bus Station.

HAKUBA VALLEY TICKET

The Hakuba Valley Ticket (www.hakubavalley.com; one day ¥6000) covers the following ski

areas in Hakuba, Otari and Ōmachi towns: Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort, Hakuba47 Winter

Sports Park, Hakuba Happō-One Snow Resort, Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field, Tsugaike Kogen

Snow Resort, Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort, Hakuba Cortina Ski Resort, Kashimayari

Snow Resort and Jiigatake Snow Resort. Check out the details online.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Alpico Group operates buses from Nagano Station (¥1800, approximately 70

minutes) and Shinjuku Nishi-guchi in Tokyo (¥4850, 4½ hours), as well as a

direct service from Narita Airport (¥9500). See

www.alpico.co.jp/traffic/express/narita_hakuba/en for details. Many visitors

arrive by taking the shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano, then the bus to

Hakuba, arriving at Happō Bus Terminal (5734-1 Happō).

TRAIN

Hakuba is connected with Matsumoto by the JR Ōito line (¥1140, 1½ hours).

Continuing north, change trains at Minami Otari to meet the JR Hokuriku

line at Itoigawa; it’s a pretty journey on a little two-carriage train, taking an

hour from Minami Otari to Itoigawa, with connections to Niigata, Toyama

and Kanazawa.

There’s one direct service per day (Super Azusa 3) from Shinjuku to

Hakuba, via Matsumoto ( tokkyū ¥8300, four hours). It departs Shinjuku at

7.30am and returns from Hakuba at 2.37pm.

NAGANO & AROUND

Formerly known as Shinshū and often referred to as the ‘Roof of Japan’,

Nagano Prefecture (長野県) is a wonderful place to visit for its regal

mountains, rich cultural history, fine architecture and cuisine.

Nagano is a big prefecture, the fourth largest in Japan. Stretching in a

north–south direction, yet with no coastline, Nagano is home to a hefty

chunk of Chūbu-Sangaku National Park, as well as several quasinational

parks that attract skiers, mountaineers and onsen aficionados.

Nagano city, the prefectural capital and host of the 1998 Winter Olympic

Games, is home to Zenkō-ji, a spectacular temple of national significance.

Renowned resorts such as Kamikōchi, Hakuba, Nozawa Onsen, Shiga

Kōgen and Karuizawa are all within Nagano’s prefectural borders, as is

Matsumoto, considered the gateway to the northern Japan Alps. The Kiso

Valley, the Central Alps and northern parts of the Southern Alps are also in

Nagano.

Nagano Prefecture

1 Top Sights

1 Chihiro Art Museum Azumino

B3

2 Togakushi-jinja

C2

1 Sights

3 Asama-yama Magma Stone Park

D3

4 Dai-ō Wasabi-Nōjo

B3

5 Japan Ukiyo-e Museum

B4

6 Jigokudani Monkey Park

D2

7 Kaichi School Museum

B4

8 Matsumoto City Museum of Art

C4

Matsumoto Open-Air Architectural Museum

(see 5)

9 Togakushi Folk Museum & Ninja House

C2

10 Togakushi-Chūsha

C2

11 Togakushi-Hōkōsha

C2

12 Togakushi-Okusha

C2

13 Utsukushi-ga-hara Open Air Museum

C4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

14 Kurobe Gorge Railway

A1

4 Sleeping

15 Matsumoto BackPackers

B4

16 Ougatou Hotel

C4

17 Oyado Nagomino

B3

18 Tobira Onsen Myōjin-kan

C4

19 Togakushi Campground

C2

Yokokura Ryokan

(see 10)

5 Eating

Uzuraya Soba

(see 11)

8 Information

Togakushi Tourist Information Center

(see 2)

8 Transport

20 Central Alps Komagatake Ropeway

B6

21 Ontake Ropeway

A5

8 Getting There & Away

Willer Express operates services from Tokyo to a number of destinations in

the prefecture.

Frequent shinkansen depart Tokyo Station for Nagano city, with

connections through to Toyama and Kanazawa.

The JR Shinonoi line connects Nagano to Matsumoto and through to

Shiojiri, while the JR Chūō-honsen line links Shiojiri to Nagoya.

Super Azusa trains on the JR Chūō-honsen link Shinjuku (Tokyo) with

Matsumoto and the JR Ōito line heads on from there to Hakuba.

Nagano 長野

%026 / POP 375,000

The mountain-ringed prefectural capital of Nagano (長野) has been a place

of pilgrimage since the Kamakura period, when it was a temple town centred

on the magnificent Zenkō-ji, which draws a stunning number of visitors to

the city each year. The highlights of town are Zenkō-ji and the 1.8km stretch

of interesting Chūō-dōri that leads almost directly north to the temple from

the station. Monzen-machi means ‘a town that developed before the gates of

a temple’ and Nagano is a classic example.

Since the shinkansen (bullet train) and the upgraded station complex

arrived in time for Nagano to host the Winter Olympics in 1998, the city has

become a lot ‘closer’ to Tokyo: only 1½ hours away. It still has a friendly,

small-town feel about it, though, while retaining plenty of accommodation

and some appealing restaurants and bars. Many visitors use Nagano as a

base for visiting Togakushi, Obuse and the Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Nagano

1 Top Sights

1 Zenkō-ji

B1

4 Sleeping

2 Chūō-kan Shimizuya Ryokan

B2

3 Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

A4

4 Matsuya Ryokan

B1

5 Worldtrek Diner & Guesthouse Pise

B2

5 Eating

6 Banikuman

B4

7 Fujiki-an

B2

8 Fujiya Gohonjin

B2

9 India the Spice

A4

10 Yayoiza

A2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

11 James’ Nagano Beer Market

A4

12 Shinshū Nagaya Sakaba

A4

8 Information

13 Nagano Tourist Information Center

B4

8 Transport

14 Miyamoto Shōkai

A4

1 Sights

o Zenkō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 善光寺; %026-234-3591; www.zenkoji.jp; 491 Motoyoshi-chō; h4.30am-4.30pm summer, 6am-4pm winter, hours vary rest of year) F

Founded in the 7th century, National Treasure Zenkō-ji is home to the

revered statue Ikkō-Sanzon, said to be the first Buddhist image to arrive in

Japan (AD 552). Not even 37 generations of emperors have seen the image,

though millions of visitors flock here to view a copy every seven years

during the Gokaichō Matsuri (www.gokaicho.com; hApr/May). Zenkō-ji’s

immense popularity stems partly from its liberal welcoming of pilgrims,

regardless of gender, creed or religious belief.

Its chief officiants are both a priest and a priestess. The current building

dates from 1707.

Any bus from stop 1 in front of Nagano Station’s Zenkō-ji exit will get

you to the temple (¥150, about 10 minutes); alight at the Daimon stop. It

takes about 30 minutes to walk up Chūō-dōri from the station to the temple.

Zenkō-ji | MANUEL ASCANIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ZENKŌ-JI LEGENDS

Few Japanese temples inspire the fascination surrounding Zenkō-ji, thanks in part to the legends

related to it. The following are just a few:

The Key to Salvation Visitors may descend Okaidan (¥500), a staircase to a twisting, pitch-

black tunnel beneath the altar. The idea is that in the darkness, all are equal, seeking the same

thing – a heavy metallic object said to be the key to salvation. Grope the right-hand wall while

avoiding your fellow aspirants. Can you find it? (Claustrophes, give this one a miss.)

Ikkō-Sanzon Three statues of the Amida Buddha were brought to Japan from Korea in the 6th

century, and the one that resides at Zenkō-ji remains the temple’s raison d’être. Wrapped like a

mummy, it’s kept in an ark behind the main altar. It’s said that the image was not seen for 1000

years, but in 1702, to quell rumours that the ark was empty, the shogunate ordered a priest to

confirm its existence and take measurements. That priest remains the last confirmed person to

have viewed the image.

The Doves of San-mon Legend claims that there are five white doves hidden in the plaque of

the San-mon gate; the five short strokes in the characters for Zenkō-ji do look remarkably dove-

like. See if you can spot them, too. In the upper character (善, Zen), they’re the two uppermost

strokes; in the middle character (光, kō), they’re the strokes on either side of the top; and in the

‘ji’ (寺), it’s the short stroke on the bottom left.

Binzuru It is said that Binzuru, one of Buddha’s disciples, a healer, had attained enlightenment

but was instructed to remain on earth in service. You’ll find his statue just inside, worn down

where visitors have touched it to help heal ailments of the corresponding parts of their own

bodies.

4 Sleeping

Visitors have the unique opportunity to experience shukubō (temple lodging)

at one of Zenkō-ji’s 39 subtemples. Get a Japanese speaker to call the

Zenkō-ji Shukubō Association on 026-237-7676 to book, at least one day

ahead. Expect to pay ¥7000 to ¥10,000 per person with two traditional

shojin-ryori (vegetarian) meals.

o Worldtrek Diner & Guesthouse Pise

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ワールドトレック ダイナー アンド ゲストハウス ピ

セ; %026-214-5656; http://nagano-guesthouse.com; 2-1 Higashigo-chō; dm/r from ¥3000/7000; aW)

There’s lots going on here on the main road up to Zenkō-ji, with mixed and

female-only dorms, twin and family rooms, a super-cool cafe and a bar with

a billiard table (open 3pm to 10pm), plus rental bikes (¥1000 per day).

Rooms are simple, but there’s everything you could need, including wi-fi,

air-conditioning and laundry facilities.

o Matsuya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 松屋旅館; %026-232-2811; http://matsuyaryokan.server-shared.com;

Zenkō-ji Kannai; r per person from ¥6500, incl 2 meals from ¥11,000; aW)

Six generations of the Suzuki family have maintained this traditional inn just

inside Zenkō-ji’s Niō-mon gate. Look for the statue of Enmei Jizō and the

English signage indicating ‘The original site of Zenkō-ji’s Main Hall’ out the

front. It’s the closest lodging to the temple and a great place to stay if you

want to get into the Zenkō-ji atmosphere.

o Chūō-kan Shimizuya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中央館清水屋旅館; %026-232-2580; www.chuoukan-shimizuya.com;

49 Daimon-chō; r per person incl breakfast & without bathroom from ¥6900; aW)

On Chūō-dōri a few blocks south of Zenkō-ji, this ryokan has been in the

family for 130 years and offers a friendly welcome to foreigners. The rustic,

dark-wood interior has plenty of interesting ups, downs, nooks and crannies.

There’s a guest laundry. Meal plans are available.

Royal Hotel Nagano

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(Royal Hotel 長野; %026-278-1811; www.daiwaresort.jp/en/nagano/index.html; 1372 Matsushiro-

machi; r from ¥10,000; paW)

This massive hotel is a good option if you’re roving by rental car: it is right

beside the highway’s Nagano exit (9km from Nagano Station), has a huge,

free car park, and runs a free shuttle from/to the station. Rooms are spacious,

and there is a large bath and rotemburo, on-site restaurants and a big

supermarket next door.

Good rates are available online.

Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

HOTEL

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルメトロポリタン長野; %026-291-7000; www.metro-n.co.jp;

1346 Minami-Ishido-chō; s/d from ¥9500/13,300; paW)

Adjacent to Nagano Station, the Metropolitan has elegant rooms that are

spacious by Japanese standards. There’s a cafe, a restaurant and a top-floor

lounge with sweeping views.

DON’T MISS

SHINSHŪ CUISINE

Nagano Prefecture is renowned for its food, and for Westerners the options range from familiar

to downright challenging. Local foods are usually preceded by the region’s ancient name,

‘Shinshū’ (信州).

ringo (りんご) Apples: the best in the world. Ubiquitous in autumn.

kuri (栗) Chestnuts, especially in Obuse.

teuchi soba (そば) Handmade buckwheat noodles, eaten either cold ( zaru-soba; with wasabi

and a soy-based dipping sauce) or hot ( kake-soba; in broth).

oyaki (おやき) Wheat buns filled with vegetables, baked or steamed.

wasabi (わさび) Japanese horseradish, grown in bogs particularly in Hotaka. Look out for

wasabi cakes and ice cream.

basashi (馬刺し) Raw horse meat.

hachinoko (鉢の子) Bee larvae.

inago(稲子) Crickets.

5 Eating

Check out the area around the station’s Zenkō-ji exit and along Chūō-dōri,

especially towards the temple. Around the Zenkō-ji gates are vendors selling

oyaki (steamed or baked wheat-flour dumplings filled with seasonal

vegetables).

India the Spice

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; インディア・ザ・すぱいす; %026-226-6136; 1418 Minami-ishido-chō; curries from ¥860; hnoon-2pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun)

This cafe is festooned with every kind of wall clock imaginable, and it

specialises in variations on the theme of curry; lunch set menus include omu-

karē (rice wrapped in an omelette in keema curry sauce). Look for the vines,

Father Christmas, tubas and empty bottles outside – it’s a tad eccentric but

very popular!

o Banikuman

JAPANESE

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バニクマン; %026-228-0129; 1380 Kitaishido-chō; small plates from

¥500; h5-11.30pm)

This is the place to come to try a Nagano speciality: horse meat. Try it raw

as basashi for ¥1480, in a shabu-shabu (hotpot) course for ¥3000 or grilled

for ¥2200. Don’t be confused if you hear the words sakura-niku – sakura

means cherry and is used euphemistically for horse meat. There’s lots of

tasty Nagano sake here, too!

Fujiki-an

SOBA

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 藤木庵; %026-232-2531; www.fujikian.co.jp; 67 Daimon-chō; mains from

¥860; h11am-3pm Wed-Mon; v)

Fujiki-an has been making fresh soba in the north of Nagano Prefecture

since 1827, but you wouldn’t know it by the clean, contemporary lines of

this outlet. Seiro-mori soba (cold soba on a bamboo mat) lets the flavour

shine; other favourites are tempura , kinoko (mushroom) and nishin (herring).

There’s a picture menu.

Yayoiza

JAPANESE

¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 弥生座; %026-232-2311; www.yayoiza.jp; 503 Daimon-chō; dishes from

¥600; h11.30am-8.30pm Wed-Mon)

This establishment just before the gates to Zenkō-ji has been serving seiro-

mushi (ingredients steamed in a wood-and-bamboo box) for over 150 years.

The standard is monzen seiro-mushi (local beef and vegetables). For dessert,

try kuri-an cream (chestnut-paste mousse).

o Fujiya Gohonjin

FUSION

¥ ¥ ¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 藤屋御本陣; %026-232-1241; www.thefujiyagohonjin.com; 80 Daimon-

chō; small plates from ¥750, courses from ¥4300; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 7-10pm Sat

& Sun)

Gohonjin means ‘a residence for the lords’, and in the Edo period Fujiya

Gohonjin played host to the feudal lords of the Maeda family. The present

1925 building was Nagano’s Hotel Fujiya but has since been transformed

into the city’s most elegant function centre. The spectacular dining room,

Wisteria, is Nagano’s top Western-style restaurant.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

o James’ Nagano Beer Market

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジェームス長野ビアマーケット; %050-5861-8826;

www.hotpepper.jp/strJ001026364; 1358 Suehiro-chō; h5.30pm-midnight)

This extremely popular beer-hall-type place is upstairs only a couple of

minutes’ walk from Nagano Station. Plenty of beer and wine from around

the globe are on offer, but tops are the Shiga Kōgen Highland Ales from

Nagano. The food’s good (try the Mexican fried chicken; ¥580) and the

relaxed atmosphere will bring you back for more.

o Shinshū Nagaya Sakaba

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 信州長屋酒場; %026-269-8866; www.marutomisuisan.jpn.com/nagaya-

shinsyu; 1418-12 Minami-ishidō-chō; dishes from ¥390; h5pm-midnight)

This lively izakaya isn’t far from the station and should be on your to-do list.

You’ll spot it by all the sake barrels plastered around the corner building –

bring your sake-tasting gear because you can taste every sake made in

Nagano in here! The ambience is straight out of another era.

8 Information

Nagano Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長野市観光情報セ

ンター; %026-226-5626; http://en.nagano-cvb.or.jp; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)

Inside JR Nagano Station, this friendly outfit has colour maps and guides to

Nagano and the surrounding areas, and staff who speak good English.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Buses depart from the bus terminal ( MAP ) outside the train station’s Zenkō-

ji exit.

Local destinations include Togakushi (one way/return from ¥1250/2250,

one hour) and Hakuba (¥1800, approximately 70 minutes). Highway buses

link Nagano with Shinjuku (Tokyo), Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka. Check

https://highway-buses.jp for up-to-date details.

TRAIN

Frequent shinkansen depart Tokyo Station for Nagano (¥8200, 1½ hours)

and continue to Kanazawa (¥8960, 70 minutes).

The JR Shinonoi line connects Nagano with Matsumoto (Shinano tokkyū

¥2840, 50 minutes; Chūō futsū ¥1140, 1¼ hours) and Nagoya (Shinano

tokkyū ¥7300, three hours).

8 Getting Around

Pick up a rental bicycle from Miyamoto Shōkai ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 宮本商

会; %026-226-3914; 1284 Minami-Ishidō-chō; per half-day/day ¥600/1000; h9am-6pm), a two-

minute walk from JR Nagano Station, or at Worldtrek Diner & Guesthouse

Pise, near Zenkō-ji. Don’t attempt to cycle to Togakushi or the Jigokudani

Monkey Park from Nagano.

JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK

Pleasant in winter when shrouded in snow but less appealing when seasonally bare, Jigokudani

Monkey Park ( MAP ; 地獄谷野猿公苑, Jigokudani Yaen-kōen; %0269-33-4379;

www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp; 6845 Ōaza-heian; adult/child ¥800/400; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar) is wildly popular. Made famous by the 1992 film Baraka, in which

wild monkeys appear to bathe in natural onsen pools, the park sees thousands flock here each

year to view the over-photographed troupe of wild Japanese macaques who are lured into the

park with food. Many visitors are looking for that classic photo of a monkey in the steaming

rotemburo with snow on its head.

While it’s all good fun getting in there among the monkeys, a few points need to be noted

beforehand. The monkeys are wild and not always there – confirm their presence before you

start the 1.6km walk through the forest from the car park to the Monkey Park by asking the car-

park attendant. There’s also a webcam link on the Monkey Park website where you can see

what’s going on.

The monkeys generally only go into the human-made onsen when the weather is cold. Keep

in mind that these are wild monkeys and treat them as such: don’t go in too close for that

friendly photo.

In winter, when snow hides the industrial debris, it’s all quite appealing, but when there’s no

snow around, don’t expect an overly attractive environment by the river.

A rental car will make life a lot easier here, but getting to the Monkey Park by public

transport is also possible. Take the Nagano Dentetsu line from Nagano to the Yudanaka

terminus (tokkyū ¥1260, 45 minutes), then take the bus for Kanbayashi Onsen Guchi and get

off at Kanbayashi Onsen (¥230, 15 minutes, eight daily). Walk uphill along the road for about

400m until you see the sign reading ‘Monkey Park’, then begin your 1.6km walk through the

forest.

Togakushi 戸隠

%026

High in the mountains northwest of Nagano city, Togakushi (戸隠) has long

been visited by Shinto worshippers, who come to pray at Togakushi-jinja:

first at its Lower Shrine (Togakushi-Hōkōsha); then, after a 2km uphill

climb, at its Middle Shrine (Togakushi-Chūsha); then, a further 2km on, at

the Upper Shrine (Togakushi-Okusha). These days, roads and trails link the

three.

While most visitors today are still pilgrims, the Togakushi region is

popular with hikers in spring, summer and autumn, and with skiers in winter.

This pretty forested area of the mountains makes a lovely day trip or a

peaceful overnight stay.

1 Sights

o Togakushi-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 戸隠神社; %026-254-2001)

Comprising three sub-shrines, Togakushi-Hōkōsha ( MAP ; 戸隠宝光社),

Togakushi-Chūsha ( MAP ; 戸隠中社) and Togakushi-Okusha ( MAP ; 戸隠奥

社), each a few kilometres apart, Togakushijinja honours the 1911m-high

Togakushi-san. According to legend, the mountain is where sun goddess

Amaterasu hid in a cave behind a stone door, plunging the world into

darkness, before another deity flung the door away, luring her out and

restoring light. Chūsha, located in the middle of the village, is the easiest

shrine to get to.

Hōkōsha, the pretty lower sub-shrine of Togakushi-jinja, is reached via

274 ancient, steep stone steps.

From Okusha bus stop it’s 2km (40 minutes’ walk) to Okusha (meaning

‘Upper Shrine’) – the innermost of the three sub-shrines making up

Togakushi-jinja – via a magnificent 500m-long cedar-lined path (杉並木;

suginamiki) planted in 1612, with plenty of twists and turns and many stone

stairs. It is not an easy walk for those with limited mobility, but it’s certainly

a rewarding one.

From Okusha, avid alpinists can make the strenuous climb to the top of

the peak. In winter Okusha is inaccessible, except for hearty snowshoers.

Togakushi Folk Museum & Ninja House

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 戸隠民俗館･忍者からくり屋敷, Togakushi Minzoku-kan & Ninja Karakuri

Yashiki; %026-254-2395; www.togakushi-ninja.com; 3688-12 Togakushi; adult/child ¥500/350;

h9am-5pm mid-Apr–mid-Nov; gOkusha)

Above the Okusha bus stop you’ll find this museum housing artefacts from a

time when local yamabushi (mountain monks) practised what became

known as ninpo (the art of stealth). The Ninja House is the most fun,

cleverly concocted with trick doors, hidden staircases and a room that slopes

upwards.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Eating options are limited after dark; most overnight visitors dine at their

accommodation. Togakushi has been famed for its soba for centuries, which

are still said to be one of Japan’s top three for tastiness. Try some at one of

the 30 soba shops near Togakushi-Chūsha.

Togakushi Campground

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP ; 戸隠キャンプ場; %026-254-3581; www.togakusi.com/camp; 3694 Togakushi; sites/bungalows/cabins/cottages from ¥3000/5000/9000/18,000; hlate Apr-late Oct; pW; gTogakushi

Kyanpu-jo)

This beautiful, sprawling campground a few kilometres from Okusha has its

own babbling brook, 350 campsites, 30 bungalows, 33 cabins and six self-

contained cottages. It’s best in October, when the leaves are turning and it’s

just about ready to close for the winter. Rental tents are available (¥4000).

From Nagano, take the bus to Togakushi Kyanpu-jo stop.

Yokokura Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

( MAP ; 横倉旅館; %026-254-2030; www.yokokura-inn.jp; 3347 Chūsha; dm with/without 2

meals from ¥5265/3245, r per person from ¥8000; paW)

Yokokura Ryokan is in a thatched-roof building from the early Meiji era,

about 150m from the steps up to Chūsha shrine. It’s both a hostel and a

ryokan, with gendersegregated tatami-room dorms, and private rooms.

Room-only plans are available.

Uzuraya Soba

NOODLES

¥

( MAP ; うずら家そば; %026-254-2219; 3229 Togakushi; soba from ¥780; h10.30am-4pm Thu-

Tue; v)

Revered in Japan by those who value soba (as many do), this wonderful

noodle shop claims that Togakushi is the home of soba – and it may just be

right. It’s directly across from the steps to Chūsha shrine. Tempura soba is

king.

8 Information

Pick up English-language maps from the Togakushi Tourist Information

Center ( MAP ; 戸隠観光情報センター; %026-254-2888; http://togakushi-21.jp; h9am-5pm) near Togakushi-Chūsha.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses depart Nagano hourly from 7am to 7pm and arrive at Chūsha-

Miyamae bus stop by Togakushi-Chūsha in about an hour (one way/return

¥1250/2250). To Togakushi-Okusha shrine the one-way/return fare is

¥1350/2400.

Obuse 小布施町

%026 / POP 11,000

This lovely little town northeast of Nagano occupies a big place in Japanese

art history and has a handful of interesting museums. The famed ukiyo-e

(woodblock print) artist Hokusai (1760–1849) worked here during his final

years. Obuse (小布施) is also famed for kuri (chestnuts), which you can

sample steamed with rice or in ice cream and sweets.

The town is incredibly popular with Japanese day trippers, especially at

weekends and on holidays. It’s a 500m walk southeast from Obuse Station to

the hot spots.

1 Sights

o Hokusai Museum

GALLERY

(北斎館, Hokusai-kan; %026-247-5206; https://hokusai-kan.com; 485 Ōaza Obuse; adult/child

¥1000/free; h9am-5pm)

Japan’s most famous ukiyo-e artist, Hokusai, spent his final years in Obuse.

There’s an audiovisual presentation on his life in the theatre, and his ‘36

Views of Fuji’ plus other works are exhibited in the gallery, which has

recently undergone extensive renovation. You can buy everything Hokusai in

the museum shop. It’s a 10-minute, well-signposted walk from Obuse

Station.

Takai Kōzan Kinenkan

MUSEUM

(高井鴻山記念館; %026-247-4049; 805-1 Ōaza Obuse; ¥300; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-

Mar)

Takai Kōzan, woodblock artist Hokusai’s friend and patron, was a

businessman and an accomplished classical artist specialising in elegant

Chinese-style landscapes. His life and work are commemorated in this small

museum.

4 Sleeping

Guest House Kokoro

GUESTHOUSE

¥ ¥

(ゲストハウスココロ; %090-8843-9091; http://kokoro.obuse.jp; 1103 Obuse; s/d/tr without

bathroom from ¥4200/7000/9000; aW)

On the main road in the middle of Obuse, this little guesthouse boasts

immaculate Japanesestyle tatami rooms. It’s only a couple of minutes’ walk

to the museums, and there are lots of eating options nearby.

o Masuichi Kyakuden

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(桝一客殿; %026-247-1111; www.kyakuden.jp; 815 Ōaza Obuse; d per person incl breakfast from

¥19,000; paW)

Delightful, original, stylish and enchanting: all describe this gem in the heart

of Obuse. Twelve rooms – huge by Japanese standards – beautifully

synergise old and new, and are constructed from antique kura (storehouses)

around a chestnut garden. Disappear into the peace, tranquillity and

refinement.

5 Eating

Obuse has a handful of imaginative eateries in line with the town’s arty vibe.

Expect to queue at weekends.

Cafe Gingadō

CAFE

¥

(Cafe 銀河堂; %026-247-8130; 1444-1 Obuse; meals from ¥800; h11.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

If you’re struggling with the crowds on a busy day in Obuse, head back to

the road in front of the station to find this lovely little cafe, offering set

lunches such as daily pasta, pizza or omelette with salad for ¥800. It’s a

peaceful and attractive oasis, playing great jazz music.

Chikufūdō

DESSERTS

¥

(竹風堂; %026-247-2569; http://chikufudo.com; 973 Ōaza Obuse; desserts from ¥300; h8am-6pm) Sample chestnut confections at Chikufūdō, established in 1893. Dorayakisan

(chestnut paste in pancake dumplings) are the standard here. It’s on the main

road near the Hokusai Museum.

8 Information

Obuse Tourist Information Center (%026-214-6300; www.obusekanko.jp; h9am-5pm)

At Obuse station, this extremely helpful office has English brochures and

maps, and rental bicycles (¥400 for first two hours, ¥100 per additional hour;

available April to November) that can be returned at three other spots around

town.

A la Obuse Guide Centre (ア･ラ･小布施ガイドセンター; %026-247-5050;

789-1 Ōaza Obuse; h9am-5pm) You can get maps here, en route to the museums

from Obuse Station. There’s also a cafe, a gift store and a quaint guesthouse

out the back (Petit Hotel a la Obuse; singles from ¥8000, twins from

¥12,000) if you decide to stick around.

8 Getting There & Away

Obuse is reached via the Nagano Dentetsu (Nagaden) line from Nagano

( tokkyū/futsū ¥770/670, 25/40 minutes).

Nozawa Onsen 野沢温泉

%0269 / POP 3500

This wonderful working village tucked into a picturesque corner of the

eastern Japan Alps is both a humming winter ski resort and a year-round

onsen town – it’s worth visiting at any time of year.

Settled as early as the 8th century, Nozawa Onsen (野沢温泉) is compact

and quaint, with a maze of narrow streets. Dotted around the village are

public onsen and a range of excellent accommodation. Outside the busy ski

season, it’s possible to briefly escape modernity and get a sense of life in an

ancient mountain village. There’s a strong sense of community here,

epitomised by the 13 soto-yu onsen, each maintained by a different part of

the village as bathing spots for locals. Onsen water is still used by many for

laundry, cooking and heating. There’s a refreshing desire to avoid unbridled

development and maintain the uniqueness of the village.

2 Activities

o Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort

SNOW SPORTS

(野沢温泉スキー場; www.nozawaski.com; 1-day lift ticket ¥4800; h8.30am-4.30pm Dec-

Apr)

One of Honshū’s best, this resort dominates the ‘upper’ village. It’s easy to

navigate and enjoy, with 21 lifts and a variety of terrain. The main base is

around the Hikage gondola station, where there are beginner and kid-

friendly runs. Snowboarders should try the Karasawa terrain park or the

half-pipe at Uenotaira; advanced skiers will enjoy the steep Schneider

Course.

The lively village is great for après-ski action.

DON’T MISS

NOZAWA ONSEN’S BATHS

There are 13 onsen known as soto-yu (外湯; open 6am to 11pm) dotted about Nozawa Onsen.

Historically, these are the locals’ bathing houses: many older houses in the village still do not

have a bath. While there’s no-one to collect money, the correct etiquette for non-locals is to put

some coins in the donation box on the wall outside.

Head through the correct door to get changed – to minimise mistakes, all the onsen have

English signage on their Men and Women doors. Each place has two tiny baths; nuru-yu (ぬる

湯) is the not-so-hot bath and atsu-yu (あつ湯) is the hot one – scaldingly hot at some of the 13.

A favourite is Ō-yu, with its fine wooden building, followed by the steaming-hot Shin-yu and

the atmospheric Kuma-no-te-arai-yu (Bear’s Bath). Give as many as you can a try; you’ll only

need 10 minutes in each.

z Festivals & Events

Dōsojin Matsuri

CULTURAL

(道祖神祭り; h13-15 Jan)

Each year crowds gather for the famous Dōsojin Matsuri, a kind of cleansing

ritual for men aged 25 and 42 years, the so-called ‘unlucky ages’ in Japan.

The 42-year-olds’ task is to defend a purpose-built two-storey shrine, which

they sit upon as it is besieged by fire at the hands of the 25-year-olds and

onlookers.

The 13th and 14th are warm-up days for the big event on the 15th.

Copious amounts of sake are imbibed by all, the defenders come down after

a while, and then the shrine is set ablaze with great enthusiasm.

4 Sleeping

Nozawa Onsen has a variety of accommodation, including some wonderful

rustic ryokan, open year-round. In winter it’s buzzing; book ahead.

Lodge Nagano

INN

¥

(ロッジながの; %050-5532-6026; www.lodgenagano.com; 6846-1 Toyosato; dm/r per person

incl breakfast from ¥4500/6500; paW)

This popular foreign-run guesthouse attracts lots of Aussie skiers –

everything is set up with exactly what you need. It’s a friendly, fun place

with bunk dorms and tatami rooms, some with private bathroom.

o Address Nozawa

APARTMENT

¥ ¥

(アドレス野沢; %0269-67-0360; www.addressnozawa.com; 9535 Nozawa Onsen; studios from

¥12,000; paW)

This innovative, centrally located boutique property occupies what was a

traditional inn. The new owners have created a space combining Japanese

and European design elements, and the large, Westernstyle rooms feature

fresh colours, downy beds, bright bathrooms and a full kitchen. There’s an

on-site onsen bath, a kids’ room, ski storage and plenty of technology.

Nozawa Peaks

LODGE

¥ ¥

(%050-5539-8960; www.nozawapeaks.com; 6585 Toyosato; r without bathroom from ¥12,600; aW) This foreigner-friendly place has Japanese-style tatami rooms with futon,

some with bathroom, some with shared facilities. There’s a large living

room, along with drying and ski-storage rooms. The nearest resort lift is five

minutes’ walk away. Nozawa Peaks is a 10-minute walk south of the village

centre.

Kiriya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(桐屋旅館; %0269-85-2020; www.kiriya.jp; 8714-2 Nozawa Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals &

without bathroom from ¥14,500; paW)

This friendly ryokan has been in the family for generations. The owner’s

attentive service and excellent English ensure its abiding popularity with

overseas guests. All rooms have private toilets; some have their own baths in

addition to the large communal onsen baths. There’s a guest laundry and a

wonderful garden.

o Mura-no-hoteru Sumiyoshi-ya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(村のホテル住吉屋; %0269-85-2005; www.sumiyosiya.co.jp; 8713 Toyosato; r per person incl

2 meals & without bathroom from ¥18,820; aW)

This wonderful ryokan, the oldest in town, has a wide range of inviting

traditional room types, many with private bathrooms and great views. The

communal onsen baths with stained-glass windows are dreamy. Limited

English is spoken, but the friendly staff is committed to excellence in

service.

5 Eating & Drinking

Nozawa Onsen isn’t so happening in the green season, when a nocturnal

stroll around the village will leave you feeling decidedly calm and

contemplative. It’s a different scene entirely in the ski season, when you’ll

find no shortage of friendly little bars packed with playful punters.

o Sobadokoro Daimon

SOBA

¥

(そば処 大茂ん; %0269-85-2033; 9509 Toyosato; meals from ¥750; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-

8.30pm)

This superb soba shop, just of the main street in the middle of the village,

offers a relaxed atmosphere, jazz music and a chance to try the superb soba

that Nagano Prefecture is legendary for. Make sure you get a side dish of

nozawana (¥350), the tasty local pickled vegetable.

Nappa 78 Cafe

CAFE

¥

(なっぱ78カフェ; %080-1250-7878; http://nappa-cafe.com; 9301-2 Toyosato; plates from ¥400;

h10am-6pm Thu-Tue)

This extremely cute little cafe is up at the top of town where the locals boil

eggs in the onsen water. Set-menu lunches (¥780) and light meals are the go

here, along with cakes, desserts and coffees. There’s an ashi-yu (foot bath)

right outside.

Kaze no Ie

ITALIAN

¥

(風の家; %0269-85-3244; www.kazenoie.info; 9494 Toyosato; pasta ¥600-1000; h6-10pm)

You can’t beat this little Italian trattoria in the heart of the village for hearty

pastas, tasty pizzas and delicious bruschetta. Excellent value, with a top wine

list featuring Italian and French wines to boot!

o Libushi

CRAFT BEER

(里武士; %080-6930-3992; http://libushi.com; 9347 Toyosato; h4-11pm)

Smack in the middle of the village, Libushi is Nozawa Onsen’s very own

artisan brewery. With a taproom up front, a brewery out the back and a very

innovative attitude, this outfit is coming up with some intriguing one-off

brews. Pints range from ¥1200 to ¥1600. You might find that hours vary

outside the busy season.

Stay

BAR

(ステイ; 9517 Toyosato; h8pm-late)

This cosy basement bar is open late and run by a music-loving Japanese man

who has lived abroad. He’s especially keen on Jackson Browne’s 1977

classic ‘Stay’ – hence the name of the bar.

8 Information

Nozawa Onsen Visitor Centre (野沢温泉ビジターセンター; %0269-85-3155;

www.nozawakanko.jp/english; 9780-4 Toyosato; h8.30am-5.30pm) In the centre of the

village. Has English-speaking staff who can assist with accommodation and

tour bookings.

8 Getting There & Away

Since the arrival of the Hokuriku shinkansen, getting to Nozawa Onsen has

become quicker and easier.

To get here from Tokyo, take a shinkansen direct to Iiyama station (¥8630,

110 minutes), then connect to the Nozawa Onsen Liner bus to Nozawa

Onsen (¥600, 20 minutes).

Myōkō Kōgen 妙高高原

%0255 / POP 33,200

The Myōkō mountain range (妙高高原) is a well-known destination among

powder hounds and ski bunnies – its proximity to the Sea of Japan means

Myōkō gets snow before anywhere else – but there are plenty of other

attractions in the many stylish, accessible resorts here for connoisseurs of

alpine living. In the warmer months the lush, verdant forests of Myōkō

Kōgen draw hikers and strollers alike to wander their many sunlit paths – the

area is one of 48 certified ‘forest therapy bases’ in Japan, where walkers can

practise the art of shinrin-yoku (forest bathing).

2 Activities

Akakura Onsen Ski Park

SNOW SPORTS

(赤倉温泉スキー場, Akakura Onsen Sukī-Jō; %0255-87-2125; www.akakura-ski.com; 1-day

lift ticket adult/child ¥4800/1000; hDec-Mar; c)

Akakura Onsen is one of the more popular resorts in Myōkō, especially

among travellers with small children. All but two of the 20 runs were laid

out with the needs of novice skiers in mind, and even the black diamonds are

little more than short chutes. But the high-quality powder and picturesque

setting ensure a good time for everyone.

Family restaurants, many drawing inspiration from European chalets, are

scattered around the slopes. English signage is generally available.

T Tours

Dancing Snow

SNOW SPORTS

(ダンシングスノー; %090-1433-1247; www.dancingsnow.com)

For off-piste excitement, check out these local experts for guided tours

through the backwoods terrain and snowshoe treks, as well as personalised

one-on-one instruction – all in English. Prices depend on the length and type

of tour; summer hiking tours are also available. Check the website for

details.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Akakura Onsen, a cosy mountain village nearby, is the perfect base for a

long stay. Most places will pick you up from the station with advance notice.

There are plenty of restaurants in Akakura Onsen and around the train

station, though many close down in the warmer months.

Hotel Alp

INN

¥ ¥

(ホテルアルプ; %0255-87-3388; www.alpmyoko.com; 585-90 Akakura Onsen; r per person incl

2 meals from ¥12,750; pniW)

The tranquil Hotel Alp lies at the base of the slopes and is extremely

conducive to a ski-in, ski-out holiday. There are fewer than 20 rooms,

allowing for a sense of intimacy not found at the resort hotels. Be sure to

spend some quality time in the therapeutic sauna and hot-spring bath, perfect

for thawing out your joints.

Red Warehouse

LODGE

¥ ¥ ¥

(インターナショナルロッジ 赤の蔵; %0255-78-7828; www.red-warehouse.com; 25-

549 Akakura Onsen; s/d from ¥7900/14,900, closed Apr-Nov; nW)

Knowledgeable, English-speaking hosts oversee this terrific homestyle

retreat where guests stay in clean, simple rooms ideal for families. It’s good

value too, given the easy access to the ski fields, spotless communal areas

and uncomplicated travel vibe.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (妙高市観光協会; %0255-86-3911;

www.myokotourism.com; 291-1 Taguchi; h9am-7pm) Enquire here about lift passes,

accommodation, equipment rentals and ski schools with English-speaking

instructors. In summer excellent walking maps are available, as is bike hire

(¥3000 per day).

8 Getting There & Away

Myōkō Kōgen is actually in Niigata Prefecture but is best reached from

Nagano. The Nagano shinkansen runs once or twice every hour between

Tokyo and Nagano (¥7680, 1¾ hours). Nagano is connected to Myōkō

Kōgen by the JR Shinano line; hourly kaisoku (rapid trains; ¥830, 45

minutes) ply this route. From Myōkō Kōgen Station, shuttle buses and taxis

run to Akakura Onsen Ski Park and other ski resorts.

Shiga Kōgen 志賀高原

%0269

The site of several events during the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, Shiga

Kōgen (志賀高原) is Japan’s biggest ski resort and one of the largest in the

world: there are 18 linked areas covering an incredible amount of terrain.

With a free shuttle connecting all the resorts and a ‘key card’ pass that can

be used everywhere, skiers are swooning here.

Outside winter the mountain’s lakes, ponds and overlooks make it an

excellent destination for hikers. In 1980, some 130 sq km of land was

designated a Unesco-protected Man and the Biosphere (MAB) Reserve.

If you don’t ski or hike, the only compelling reason to visit are the

glorious green-season vistas from Rte 292 as it winds its way up from

Yudanaka, then around twisty peaks, past lakes and the craters of active

volcanoes, and down to the village of Kusatsu Onsen: it’s one of mainland

Japan’s most rewarding drives.

2 Activities

o Shiga Kōgen Ski Area

SKIING

(志賀高原スキー場; %0269-34-2404; www.shigakogen.gr.jp; 1-day lift ticket ¥5000;

h8.30am-4.30pm Dec-Apr)

This conglomeration of 18 ski areas is covered by one lift ticket, which gives

access to all areas as well as the shuttle bus between various base lodges.

Check out www.snowjapan.com for information on each of the areas.

There’s a huge variety of terrain for all skill levels. In the Hasuike area, in

front of the Shiga Kōgen ropeway station, the tourist office has English

speakers who can help you navigate the slopes and book accommodation.

Hasuike ski area is central and good for learners and families; Nishitate-

yama has long courses and great views; Yakebitai-yama is one of the

biggest areas, with a huge variety of terrain and panoramic views.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Ski resorts of all shapes and sizes dot the hills and valleys that make up

Shiga Kōgen. There’s no central village to speak of, but 16 hotel areas

spread out around the mountains, so look at a map when you book your

accommodation.

There’s very little by way of dining options outside ski season. It’s a good

move to eat where you stay.

o Villa Ichinose

INN

¥ ¥

(ヴィラ・一の瀬; %0269-34-2704; www.villa101.biz; 7149 Hirao; per person incl breakfast &

without bathroom from ¥6500; paW)

In a great spot in front of the Ichinose bus stop, and with English-speaking

staff and a friendly atmosphere, this inn is popular with overseas guests.

Japanese-style rooms have toilet only; Western-style rooms have their own

bathroom. There’s wi-fi and a 24-hour public bath on the 2nd floor.

Hotel Shirakaba-sō

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(ホテル白樺荘; %0269-34-3311; www.shirakaba.co.jp/english; 7148 Hirao; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥13,500; paW)

Close to the cable-car base station and the Sun Valley ski area is this pleasant

little hotel with a variety of rooms and its own indoor and outdoor onsen

baths. It’s in a great location virtually next to the Hasuike bus stop.

Chalet Shiga

INN

¥ ¥

(シャレー志賀; %0269-34-2235; www.shigakogen.jp/chalet/en; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥10,200; paW)

Chalet Shiga is convenient to the slopes and has a popular sports bar on-site.

Both Western- and Japanese-style rooms are available, plus onsen and sauna.

8 Information

Shiga Kōgen Tourist Office (志賀高原観光協会; %0269-34-2323;

www.shigakogen.gr.jp; h9am-5pm) In the Hasuike area, the Shiga Kōgen Tourist

Office has English speakers who can help you navigate the slopes and book

accommodation.

8 Getting There & Away

Nagaden runs direct buses between JR Nagano Station and Shiga Kōgen

(¥1700, 70 minutes), with frequent departures in ski season. You can also

take a train from Nagano to Yudanaka and continue to Shiga Kōgen by bus –

take a Hasuike-bound bus and get off at the last stop (¥780, approximately

40 minutes).

Bessho Onsen 別所温泉

%0268 / POP 2500

With some interesting temples and excellent hot-spring waters, mountain-

ringed Bessho Onsen (別所温泉), part of Ueda city, is a charming little

village well worth a visit. It lies at the end of its own train line, and it’s a

pleasure to hop off at the cute retro station and head uphill into the heart of

the village.

Historically, Bessho Onsen has plenty of claims to fame. It has long been

referred to as ‘Little Kamakura’ for the fact that it served as an

administrative centre during the Kamakura period (1192–1333). It was also

mentioned in The Pillow Book by the Heian-era poetess Sei Shōnagon, and

the restorative properties of its onsen waters are said to have healed the

arrow wounds of warriors through the ages.

1 Sights & Activities

There are three old onsen in the village (¥150), each open from 6am to

10pm: Ō-yu (大湯) has a small rotemburo (outdoor bath); Ishi-yu (石湯) is

famed for its stone bath; and Daishi-yu (大師湯), most frequented by the

locals, is relatively cool. A recent addition is Aisome-no-yu (あいそめの

湯), a sizeable onsen complex just downhill from the station that charges

¥500. It’s also open 6am to 10pm.

Kitamuki Kannon

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(北向観音; %0268-38-2023; h24hr) F

The grounds of this Tendai temple have some impressive ancient trees and

sweeping valley views. The temple’s name comes from the fact that this

Kannon image faces north, a counterpart to the south-facing image at Zenkō-

ji in Nagano.

Anraku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(安楽時; %0268-38-2062; adult/child ¥300/100; h8am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Of the Sōtō Zen sect, Anraku-ji is the oldest Zen temple in Nagano. Dating

from AD 824–34, it’s a National Treasure, renowned for its octagonal

pagoda. The temple is a 10-minute walk from the Bessho Onsen train

station.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There’s a handful of reasonably priced eateries in the vicinity of the train

station, but if you stay at a ryokan, it will be best to eat where you stay.

o Earthworks Guesthouse & Gallery

GUESTHOUSE

¥ ¥

(アースワークスギャラリー&ゲストハウス; %080-69370304;

https://earthworksguesthouse.amebaownd.com; 1725 Bessho Onsen; s/d with shared bathroom from

¥5000/8000; pnaW)

Run by Roberto and Rumi in a renovated old farmhouse behind their

sensational Earthworks Gallery, this is a wonderful place to stay if you don’t

mind a shared bathroom. The tatami rooms are gorgeous, as are the

communal rooms. It’s all very tasteful, as you’d expect from top ceramic

artists. It’s in the middle of the village, 500m from the station.

Uematsu-ya

INN

¥ ¥

(上松屋; %0268-38-2300; www.uematsuya.com; 1628 Bessho Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥10,000; paW)

Uematsu-ya is a well-kept, good-value inn occupying a nine-storey building

atop a hill. It has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms; deluxe rooms are

larger, on higher floors and have a private terrace. There are also indoor

onsen and lovely rotemburo. Good English is spoken.

Ryokan Hanaya

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(旅館花屋; %0268-38-3131; http://hanaya.naganoken.jp; 169 Bessho Onsen; r per person with 2

meals from ¥14,000; p)

Ryokan Hanaya is a step back in time to the Taishō era (1912–26) – a

traditional gem set among wonderful manicured Japanese gardens. Fourteen

beautiful, spacious tatami rooms open onto the scenery; each one has unique

motifs and history. There’s a blissful rotemburo in the garden.

Capitolino

ITALIAN

¥

(カピトリーノ; %0268-38-3140; www.fresh-ikeda.com; 68-4 Bessho Onsen; meals from ¥800;

h11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Thu-Tue)

Bessho Onsen has a good Italian restaurant, whose proprietors are extremely

proud of the quality of their pastas and pizzas. Just across from the station,

the restaurant shares the building with a fresh-produce store and market.

8 Information

Bessho Onsen Ryokan Association (別所温泉旅館組合; %0268-38-2020;

www.bessho-onsen.com; 1853-3 Bessho Onsen; h9am-5pm) Located at the train station, this small office with enthusiastic staff provides tourist information and can

assist with lodging reservations. It also has bicycles that visitors can use for

free.

8 Getting There & Away

Access is by train, via Ueda. From Nagano, take the JR shinkansen (¥2940,

12 minutes) or the private Shinano Tetsudō line (¥770, 40 minutes). From

Tokyo, take the JR shinkansen (¥6670, 1½ hours). Once at Ueda, change to

the private Ueda Dentetsu line to Bessho Onsen (¥590, 28 minutes).

Karuizawa 軽井沢

%0267 / POP 19,000

Karuizawa (軽井沢) is a picturesque resort town situated in a fertile valley

beneath the shadow of Asama-yama, one of the most active volcanoes on

Honshū. Its last minor eruption was in 2015, but the previous one in 2009

reportedly saw ash fall as far away as Tokyo (130km). Karuizawa has long

been a popular retreat from Tokyo’s summer heat for the rich and famous. In

1957 a young Emperor Akihito met his future bride, Empress Michiko, on a

tennis court here. Since then, the town has been a popular spot for weddings

and an even more popular weekend destination for Tokyoites.

With easy access from Tokyo and Nagano by shinkansen, a range of

accommodation, restaurants, and a shopping outlet that even anti-shoppers

will find hard to resist, Karuizawa makes a worthwhile day trip and a lovely,

though expensive, place to spend a night or two.

1 Sights

Old Karuizawa (旧軽井沢; Kyū Karuizawa), also known as ‘Old Karuizawa

Ginza’, is an attractive main street lined with classy boutiques, galleries and

cafes. Follow Karuizawa-hondōri north from JR Karuizawa Station for about

1km, then turn right onto Kyū Karuizawa Ginza-dōri – you can’t miss it.

Asama-yama Magma Stone Park

PARK

( MAP ; 鬼押出し園, Onioshidashi-en; %0267-86-4141;

www.princehotels.co.jp/amuse/onioshidashi; 1053 Kanbara, Tsumagoi-mura; adult/child ¥650/450; h8am-4.30pm)

Here’s your chance to get up close and personal with Asama-yama – so

close, you could almost touch it. Formed in 1783 by Asama’s last violent

eruption, this ‘Hurled by Demons’ park has a surreal landscape of jagged,

hardened magma juxtaposed with verdant fields: volcanic soil is extremely

fertile. Best accessed with your own wheels, the park is on the Onioshi

Highway Toll Rd linking Naka-Karuizawa with Tsumagoi to the north. Ask

at the Karuizawa Tourist Association office for bus details.

‘Umi’ Museum of Contemporary Art

GALLERY

(軽井沢現代美術館, Karuizawa Gendaibijutsukan; %0267-31-5141; www.moca-karuizawa.jp;

2052-2 Nagakura; adult/child/senior ¥1000/500/800; h10am-5pm Jul-Sep, 10am-5pm Fri-Mon Apr-

Jun, Oct & Nov)

This light-filled gallery showcases an impressive collection of contemporary

work by Japanese artists who have found fame abroad in genres such as oil

painting, 3D art and sculpture. It’s in a lovely forested spot between

Karuizawa and Naka-Karuizawa Stations.

Usui Pass Lookout

VIEWPOINT

(碓氷峠見晴台, Usui Tōge Miharadai) F

On the border of Gunma and Nagano Prefectures, about 4km east of

Karuizawa on Rte 18, you’ll find the Usui Pass, historically an important

point on the Nakasendō, one of the two routes of the Edo period that linked

Tokyo and Kyoto. A train line ran through the pass from 1893 to 1997. The

observation platform has stunning views of Asama-yama and surrounding

mountains. There’s no public transport; for directions, ask at the Karuizawa

Tourist Association office.

4 Sleeping

Occupancy is generally high and rates are among the dearest in Japan. As

Karuizawa is very spread out, check that you’re where you want to be when

making a booking.

o Cottage Inn Log Cabin

CABIN

¥ ¥

(%0267-45-6007; www.log-cabin.co.jp; 3148-1 Naka-Karuizawa; cabins per person from ¥6000; paW)

As the name suggests, these fully self-contained cabins, in a forested setting

five minutes’ walk from Naka-Karuizawa Station, have rustic appeal. This is

a great option for travelling families, with a restaurant and daiyokujō (big

bath) on-site.

Ikoisansō

INN

¥ ¥

(いこい山荘; %0267-45-5254; www.ikoi-sanso.com; 3365-9 Nagakura; r with shared bathroom

from ¥9000; pnaW)

A good midrange option 1km north of Naka-Karuizawa Station, Ikoisansō

offers free pick-up and drop-off at the station. Choose from Japanese-style

rooms with shared facilities in the older building or rooms with private

bathroom in the new building. There’s a decent daiyokujō and rental bicycles

(¥1000 per day). It’s down a quiet side lane; there’s free parking.

o Ancient Hotel

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(%0267-42-3611; www.ancient-hotel.com; 2126 Nagakura; d per person with 2 meals from ¥30,000;

paW)

About 10km north of Karuizawa Station, deep in the forest (there’s a free

shuttle bus!), this beautifully designed hotel blends gracefully into its

surroundings. It’s a place of understated luxury, relaxation and tranquillity.

This attention to detail and aesthetic sensibility flow through to the cuisine,

which is presented so elegantly you’ll have to eat very slowly indeed.

5 Eating

o Kastanie Karuizawa Roast Chicken

DINER

¥

(カスターニエ 軽井沢ローストチキン; %0267-42-3081; www.kastanie.co.jp; 23-2

Karuizawa-higashi; dishes from ¥600; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon)

For something a little uncommon in Japan, pop into this original place for

succulent and tender roast-chicken dinners, pizzas, pastas and sausage

platters, all presented with Japanese attention to detail. This place is so

popular that you’ll need to book to get a table for dinner – do so online. It’s

about 400m north of Karuizawa Station.

Kawakami-an

FUSION

¥ ¥

(川上案; %0267-42-0009; www.kawakamian.com/shopkaruizawa; 6-10 Karuizawa; plates from

¥480; h11am-10pm)

Just before the start of Ginzadōri, this is a wonderful place to sample a wide

variety of Japanese and Western dishes, including an excellent large serve of

tempura soba (¥2090) or, for something different, avocado and Camembert

salad (¥880). Otherwise, just stop in for coffee and dessert.

7 Shopping

Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza

MALL

(軽井沢・プリンスショッピングプラザ; %0267-42-5211; www.karuizawa-psp.jp;

h10am-7pm)

Just outside the south exit of JR Karuizawa Station, this gargantuan outlet

shopping mall has most of the big names. Shopaholics should allocate plenty

of time. It’s set among an expanse of grassland, with its own lake, lots of

dining options and great views to Asama-yama, so it’s easy to lose time here,

even if you’re not a big shopper.

8 Information

Karuizawa Tourist Association (軽井沢観光協会, Karuizawa Kankō Kyōkai;

%0267-42-2491; www.karuizawa-kankokyokai.jp; h9am-5pm) Grab your English-language publications and maps at this office inside the JR Karuizawa Station

building.

There are also tourist-information offices at Naka-Karuizawa Station and

in Kyū Karuizawa Ginza-dōri.

8 Getting There & Away

Karuizawa is a stop on the Nagano shinkansen line from Nagano (¥3680, 30

minutes) or Tokyo (¥5910, 70 minutes). There are twice-hourly services in

both directions at most times.

Alternatively, the private Shinano Tetsudō line from Nagano operates

local trains (¥1640, 1¼ hours), and there are five buses per day from Tokyo’s

Ikebukuro Station (¥2600, three hours).

8 Getting Around

As the Karuizawa area is quite spread out, hiring a car will help you enjoy

all the region has to offer.

There are four rental-bicycle outlets more or less right outside the north

exit of Karuizawa Station and two more at Naka-Karuizawa Station. Many

accommodation places also offer rental bikes.

GUNMA PREFECTURE 群馬県

Mineral baths seem to bubble out of the ground at every turn in the dramatic

forested mountain landscape of Gunma Prefecture (群馬県; Gunma-ken). Its

most famous onsen town is Kusatsu, but there are many others that are less

commercial. All that water and mountain adds up to great outdoor activities,

ranging from skiing in winter to rafting and canyoning in spring and

summer.

8 Getting There & Away

Gateway to Gunma Prefecture, Takasaki is an important transport hub where

the Jōetsu and Hokuriku shinkansen lines branch out in the directions of

Niigata and Kanazawa (via Nagano) respectively.

The most popular onsen villages are reached by a combination of local

trains and buses, but, if you don’t mind driving on winding mountain roads,

renting a car here can make the journey vastly more pleasurable. Fair

warning: it’s hard to keep your eyes on the road with views this good.

Takasaki

%0273 / POP 370,884

Takasaki (高崎) is a workaday city that feels increasingly like a Tokyo

suburb due to the short 50-minute shinkansen (bullet-train) journey from the

metropolis. Famous for daruma dolls, Italian-style pasta and as a gateway to

Gunma’s stunning mountain scenery, Takasaki is an excellent norikaeru-

machi – the place to change trains or stop over if you’re travelling between

Tōhoku and the Japan Alps. You’ll find cheap eats and beds near the train

station, which is the branching-out point for the Jōetsu (to Niigata) and

Hokuriku (to Nagano, Kanazawa and Toyama) shinkansen lines.

1 Sights

o Haruna Jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(上野國六之宮 榛名神社; %0273-74-9050; www.haruna.or.jp; 849 Harunasan-machi)

Among gorgeously forested mountains and believed to be the home of the

God of Water, Fire and Agriculture, this site has housed a shrine of some

form for almost 1400 years. It’s said that a visit brings good fortune in love

and money. A 700m path to the shrine (situated under massive, carefully

balanced boulders) takes you to a tree that some date as old as 1000 years.

Take a bus from JR Takasaki Station (70 minutes) or drive.

Tomioka Silk Mill

HISTORIC BUILDING

(富岡製糸場; %0274-64-0005; www.tomiokasilk.jp; 1-1 Tomioka, Tomioka; adult/child

¥1000/250; h9am-5pm)

Listed as a World Heritage Site in 2014, Tomioka Silk Mill provides a look

at the history of silk production, with some English-language narration.

Completed in 1872, the mill was once one of the world’s largest producers of

silk. Today, its buildings are some of the only Meiji-era government factories

preserved in excellent condition. It makes a fascinating day trip from

Takasaki. To get here take the Joshin Dentetsu line to Joshu Tomioka

Station, then walk 10 minutes.

Usui Tōge Railway Village

MUSEUM

(碓氷峠鉄道文化村, Usui Tōge Tetsudō Bunka Mura; %0273-80-4163; 407-16 Yokokawa;

adult/child ¥500/free; h9am-5pm)

Fans of the iron horse will love this rail graveyard–locomotive museum,

with rolling stock, stations, carriages, simulators and years of Japanese rail

history in a lovely rural setting. Take the train from Takasaki to Yokokawa

Station (¥500, 30 minutes), the end of the Shinetsu main line.

For self-drivers, the park is also within easy reach of Karuizawa (22km).

4 Sleeping

Takasaki has a wide variety of moderately priced business and tourist hotels

clustered around the train-station area.

There’s no shortage of places to eat near Takasaki Station.

Hotel Metropolitan Takasaki

HOTEL

¥ ¥

(ホテルメトロポリタン高崎; %0273-25-3311; http://takasaki.metropolitan.jp; 222

Yashima-chō; s/d from ¥8700/14,000; aW)

Adjoining JR Takasaki Station, this hotel is Takasaki’s most stylish and

convenient, with excellent views from higher floors, and well-appointed

rooms.

Harappa Ekibiru-ten

ITALIAN

¥

(はらっぱ駅ビル店; %0273-22-5445; www.harappa.co.jp; JR Takasaki Station Bldg 5F, 222

Yashima-chō; pasta from ¥960; h11am-3.30pm & 5-10pm)

Dorothy, you’re not in Emilia-Romagna any more. Upstairs inside the JR

Takasaki Station building, this local favourite serves every pasta dish

conceivable, from standard carbonara and marinara to Takasaki originals like

watari kani no tomato kuri-mu (soft-shell-crab tomato cream). It’s a

welcome alternative slurp.

8 Information

Takasaki Tourist Information Center (高崎観光案内所; %0273-27-2192;

www.gtia.jp/kokusai/english; h9am-8pm) Inside JR Takasaki Station, these friendly folks have lots of English-language publications and can advise how to get

to sights further afield.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent shinkansen services race into Takasaki from Tokyo (¥4410, one

hour) and onward to Karuizawa (¥2600, 15 minutes), Nagano (¥4530, 45

minutes), Toyama (¥9850, two hours) and Kanazawa (¥11,460, 2¼ hours).

You can also travel from here on the Jōetsu shinkansen to Niigata (¥7470,

1¼ hours) to begin your explorations of the Tōhoku region.

Minakami Onsen-kyo

%0278 / POP 19,573

In the northern region of Gunma Prefecture you’ll find Minakami Onsen-

kyo, a sprawling onsen collective formed by the amalgamation of three

smaller villages: Minakami-machi, Tsukiyo-no-machi and Niharu-mura.

Surrounded by beautiful forests and mountains, and cut through by the

gushing Tone-gawa, the broader area is home to two of Japan’s most adored

onsen ryokan, while the town of Minakami has become a year-round mecca

for enthusiasts of outdooradventure sports, hiking and skiing.

As most people arrive at Jōmō Kōgen Station, about half an hour from

Minakami, it’s hard to get a handle on the place at first. Looking a little

worse for wear (like most mountain villages once the snow has melted),

Minakami-machi is Minakami Onsen-kyo’s main town, itself spread out and

hard to pin down.

Gunma Prefecture’s top-billing retreats Takaragawa Onsen, formerly of

Minakami-machi, and Hōshi Onsen, of Niharumura, are remote, isolated and

located in opposing directions. Although both are part of the Minakami

Onsen group, neither are within striking distance of Minakami town at all.

It would be difficult to visit all three in a day, but spending a night at

Takaragawa Onsen’s Ōsenkaku or Hōshi Onsen’s Chōjūkan will solve your

time problems – and, no doubt, countless others.

2 Activities

o Takaragawa Onsen

ONSEN

(宝川温泉; %0278-75-2614; www.takaragawa.com; 1899 Fujiwara; ¥1500; h9am-5pm)

This stunning outdoor onsen offers four large rock pools cascading beside

Tone-gawa and shaded by a lush forest with meandering paths, wooden huts,

and folk and religious statues. All pools are mixed, except one that’s for

women only. Modesty towels are available (¥100) but seem to be used only

by women. Buses run here hourly from Minakami Station (¥2900, 40

minutes).

Tanigawa-dake Ropeway

CABLE CAR

(土合口駅; %0278-72-3575; www.tanigawadake-rw.com; return ¥2060; h8am-5pm)

Tanigawa-dake Ropeway takes you via gondola to the peak of Tenjin-daira,

from where hiking trips, ranging from a couple of hours to all day, are

available from May to November. There’s skiing and snowboarding in

winter. From Minakami Station, take a 20-minute bus ride to Ropeway-

Ekimae bus stop (¥700). Discounted combined ropeway and return bus

tickets are available.

ADVENTURE SPORTS IN MINAKAMI

Minakami is one of Japan’s year-round adventure-sports destinations, with the exception of

November, when many of the operators take a break before the start of the winter season.

In the spring melt (between April and June) the Tone-gawa (利根川) is the source of Japan’s

best white-water activities. Tour operators with English guides include Canyons (キャニオン

ズ ｜ラフティング,キャニオニング,ロッジ,カフェー&バー; %0278-72-2811;

www.canyons.jp; rafting half-/full-day from ¥8500/15,500), I Love Outdoors (%0278-72-1337;

www.iloveoutdoors.jp/en; 169-1 Shikanosawa; half-day tours from ¥8000) and H20 Guide Services (エイチツーオーガイドサービス; %0278-72 6117; www.h2o-guides.jp;

rafting/canyoning half-/full-day ¥8000/13,000). During summer, when water levels drop and it

gets warmer, each outfitter offers canyoning trips. Both Canyons and I Love Outdoors can

arrange packages in their own lodges.

A variety of mountain-biking tours are offered by MTB Japan (%0278-72-1650;

www.mtbjapan.com; tours from ¥6000), while the team at Tenjin Lodge offers hiking in the warmer months and off-piste skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing in the winter. If none of

that is heart-thumping enough for you, take a plunge with Bungy Japan (バンジージャパン

水上バンジー; %0278-72-8133; www.bungyjapan.com/minakami; 143 Obinata; 1st jump from

¥9000; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Nov).

Serious climbers will want to tackle Tanigawa-dake (1977m), Tenjin-dake and Ichinokura.

Tanigawa-dake is suited to experienced climbers only: it is responsible for quadruple the

number of deaths that have occurred on Mt Everest. When hiking, watch out for bears.

4 Sleeping

Most local adventure-sports operators have their own lodges, but if you’re

not the adventuring kind, the town feels as though it has more ageing

minshuku and ryokan than it does residents.

Tenjin Lodge

LODGE

¥ ¥

(天神ロッジ; %0278-25-3540; www.tenjinlodge.com; 220-4 Yubiso; r per person from ¥8600; W) Ideally located at the foot of Tanigawa-dake, across from a lovely waterfall

and nearby swimming holes, this lodge offers comfy, spacious Japanese- and

Western-style rooms; ask for a riverside one. Welcoming hosts offer home-

cooked meals (breakfast ¥800, dinner ¥1300) as well as plenty of local

knowledge and adventure-sports options.

o Takaragawa Onsen Ōsenkaku

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(宝川温泉汪泉閣; %0278-75-2611; www.takaragawa.com; 1899 Fujiwara; r per person incl 2

meals & shared bathroom from ¥18,000; aWs) F

They hardly come more traditional than this inn split over three buildings,

the oldest of which is the riverside 1936 No 1 Annexe. Guests have 24-hour

use of adjacent Takaragawa Onsen: early-morning bathing gives you the

opportunity to experience that sense of real tranquillity that can be hard to

grasp during crowded peak times.

Note that the dinner banquet may include bear-meat soup; if you’d prefer

not to eat this, ask for no kuma-jiru (熊汁) when reserving. A shuttle service

is available.

o Hōshi Onsen Chōjūkan

RYOKAN

¥ ¥ ¥

(法師温泉長寿館; %0278-66-0005; www.houshi-onsen.jp; 650 Nagai; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥18,000; paW)

Remote, rustic and supremely photogenic, this lodging is one of Japan’s

finest onsen ryokan, with a stunning 1896 wooden bathhouse. From Gokan

Station (two stops before Minakami), take a bus to Sarugakyō (¥1100, 40

minutes), then change to an infrequent bus for Hōshi Onsen (¥600, 15

minutes). Otherwise take a taxi (¥3000).

Bathing for nonguests is also available (¥1000; 10.30am to 1.30pm

Thursday to Tuesday).

5 Eating & Drinking

Minakami is a sprawling town and its dining options are scattered, with

many operating seasonally. Check at the nearest Tourist Information Center

for recommendations, or dine where you sleep.

The area isn’t known for its wild nightlife, but if you’re overnighting with

one of the outdoor-sports crews, you’ll be sure to find fellow travellers to

enjoy a drink with.

Kadoya

SOBA

¥ ¥

(そば処角弥; %0278-72-2477; www.kadoyasoba.com; 189-1 Yubiso; soba ¥950-1500; h11am-

2.30pm)

Expect to queue at this popular ‘local’ specialising in hegi soba (soba

flavoured with seaweed and served on a special plate, a hegi). The noodles

are hand-rolled fresh every day and the shop closes once they sell out.

Alpine Cafe

BAR

(%0278-72-2811; www.canyons.jp; 45 Yubiso; h4pm-late Thu-Sun Dec-Oct; W)

Run by the Canyons crew, this popular cafe-bar offers riverside barbecues in

summer, a pool table, plenty of beer, hamburgers and occasional live music.

It’s also where you’ll be put up if you’re on one of Canyons’ adventure-tour

packages.

8 Information

Minakami Tourist Association (水上温泉旅館協同組合; %0278-62-0401;

www.minakamionsen.com; h8.30am-4.30pm Jun-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Nov-May) Adjacent to

Jōmō Kōgen Station, this office has helpful English-speaking staff,

brochures and bus schedules.

Also see www.enjoy-minakami.jp.

8 Getting There & Away

From Ueno, take the Jōetsu shinkansen (¥4410, 50 minutes) or JR Takasaki

line (¥1940, two hours) to Takasaki and transfer to the Jōetsu line (¥840, one

hour).

Most JR Pass holders will elect to catch the Jōetsu shinkansen direct to

Jōmō Kōgen from Tokyo/Ueno (¥5390/5180, 1¼ hours), from where buses

run to Minakami (¥620, 25 minutes).

8 Getting Around

BUS

To get to Hōshi Onsen, take the bus from Jōmō Kōgen Station to Sarugakyō

Onsen (¥880, 30 minutes) and change for the less frequent bus to Hōshi

Onsen (¥600, 20 minutes).

If you’re arriving by tokkyū train on the Jōetsu line, get off at Gokan

Station (two stops before Minakami), then get the bus to Sarugakyō (¥1100,

40 minutes), where you should change to the bus for Hōshi Onsen (¥600, 15

minutes).

Buses depart regularly from both Jōmō Kōgen Station (¥3900) and

Minakami Station (¥2900) for Takaragawa Onsen.

Timetables can be found at http://global.kan-

etsu.net/en/minakami/yunokoya.html.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

If you don’t mind driving on winding mountain roads, renting a car from

Jōmō Kōgen Station (or Takasaki) is by far the best way to experience the

area, giving you freedom to explore the divine onsen, the town of Minakami

and the ropeway.

See the friendly staff at Toyota Rent-a-Lease (トヨタレンタリース上毛

高原駅前; %0278-62-0100; http://rent.toyota.co.jp; 766 Tsukiyono; h8am-8pm), directly

opposite Jōmō Kōgen Station.

Kusatsu Onsen 草津温泉

%0279 / POP 6537

Consistently rated one of Japan’s top onsen towns since the Edo period for

its pungent, anti-bacterial, emerald-coloured waters, Kusatsu (草津温泉) is

also a great base for winter skiing, suitable for all levels; see www.kusatsu-

kokusai.com.

In the early 20th century, Emperor Meiji’s German doctor Erwin von Bälz

proclaimed the waters here ‘very conducive to health’. The German

connection endures with cheesy faux-Bavarian chalets sprinkled about the

place, and a train station labeled ‘Bahnhof’.

1 Sight & Activities

Yubatake

HOT SPRINGS

(湯畑)

Yubatake is the main attraction in the town centre and the source of hot-

spring water in the area. Its milky-blue sulphuric water flows like a waterfall

at 4000L per minute and is topped with wooden tanks from which Kusatsu’s

ryokan fill their baths. The area is atmospherically lit at night.

Sai-no-kawara Rotemburo

ONSEN

(西の河露天風呂; %0279-88-6167; www.sainokawara.com; 521-2 Ōaza Kusatsu; adult/child

¥600/300; h7am-8pm Apr-Nov, 9am-8pm Dec-Mar)

In leafy Sai-no-kawara kōen (park) you’ll find this atmospheric 500-sq-

metre rotemburo separated into men’s and women’s baths by a bamboo wall.

Each bath can hold at least 100 people and frequently does: early-morning

visits afford greater privacy and tranquillity.

The baths are a 15-minute walk west from Yubatake or stop 15 on the

Kusatsu Round Bus.

Ōtakinoyu

ONSEN

(大滝乃湯; %0279-88-2600; www.ohtakinoyu.com; 596-13 Ōaza Kusatsu; adult/child ¥900/400;

h9am-9pm)

Ōtakinoyu is known for its tubs at a variety of temperatures, some almost

impossibly hot; try different ones for an experience known as awase-yu

(mix-and-match waters). It’s a five-minute walk downhill east of Yubatake.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Kusatsu gets extremely busy during holiday periods and at weekends, and

there’s little in the way of the contemporary style that you may find at other

resorts. Several of the town’s many towering onsen hotels are more suited to

the Japanese tour-group market than DIY international visitors, and many

have seen better days.

As you’d expect in such a popular tourist destination, there’s no shortage

of restaurants.

Kusatsu Onsen Boun

RYOKAN

¥ ¥

(草津温泉望雲; %0279-88-3251; www.hotelboun.com; 433-1 Kusatsu-machi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥14,040; aW)

Beautiful Boun offers traditional decor with elegant touches, featuring tatami

rooms and common areas brightened with ikebana artwork, mossy gardens,

waterfalls and a bamboo-decking atrium. There’s a large onsen in a big

wooden bathhouse and a rotemburo (outdoor bath) with a garden outlook.

It’s a three-minute walk from Yubatake.

Hotel Sakurai

HOTEL

¥ ¥ ¥

(ホテル櫻井; %0279-88-3211; www.hotel-sakurai.co.jp; 465-4 Kusatsu-machi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥28,000; paW)

Unmissable in town, in a central location, this towering onsen hotel has a

wide range of luxurious room types, dining options and baths. Rooms on

higher floors in the newer wing feature lovely views over the town and

countryside.

Mikuniya

NOODLES

¥

(三国家; %0279-88-2134; 386 Ōaza Kusatsu; dishes from ¥680; h11am-2pm)

Fill up on tasty bowls of sansai soba (buckwheat noodles with mountain

vegetables; ¥800) at this popular place on the shopping street that runs

behind Yubatake towards Sai-no-kawara. Look for the renovated wooden

building with the black door curtains, or the line out the front.

3 Entertainment

Netsu-no-yu Yumomi

LIVE PERFORMANCE

(%0279-88-3613; www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp.e.uh.hp.transer.com/netsunoyu; 414 Kusatsu-machi;

adult/child ¥600/300; hperformances 9.30am, 10am, 10.30am, 3.30pm, 4pm & 4.30pm)

Although it’s a touristy 30-minute show, this is a unique opportunity to see

yumomi, in which local women stir the waters to cool them while singing

folk songs. There’s a chance to do it yourself at most shows (four or five

daily) and the afternoon ones also include local dances. Visit the website for

a ¥50 coupon off admission.

8 Information

For more town info, see www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp.

City Hall Tourist Section (%0279-88-0001; h8.30am-5.30pm) Next to the bus

terminal, this tourist-information bureau has a touch-screen information

terminal in English and the occasional English speaker on hand.

Kusatsu Onsen Ryokan Information Centre (草津温泉旅館案内セン

ター; %0279-88-3722; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Located in the white building opposite

the bus station, this place can help with accommodation bookings and has a

recommended walking map.

8 Getting There & Away

JR buses connect Kusatsu Onsen to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station

(¥700, free for JR Pass holders, 25 minutes). Tokkyū Kusatsu trains run from

Ueno to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station (¥4750, 2½ hours) two times a

day. Alternatively, take the Jōetsu shinkansen (bullet train) to Takasaki

(¥4410, one hour) and transfer to the JR Agatsuma line (¥1140, 1½ hours).

JR Bus Kantō (%03-3844-1950; www.jrbuskanto.co.jp) offers direct service to Kusatsu Onsen (¥3450, four hours) from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo

(departing from the New South exit); reservations required.

If you’ve rented a vehicle, you’ll be stressed out trying to navigate the

crowded, narrow streets of the village. However, the drive between Kusatsu

Onsen and Karuizawa, 41km to the south, in the Nagano region, affords

excellent views of the active volcano Mt Asama.

Heading northwest on Rte 292 towards Shiga Kōgen, and onward to

Yudanaka in Nagano, offers some of Japan’s most spectacular spring and

autumn scenery, with no shortage of incredible vistas. The winding, high-

altitude route is extremely popular (and slow) at weekends and is not

recommended for those who get carsick easily.

Kyoto

Sights

Activities

Courses & Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Kyoto

%075 / POP 1.47 MILLION

Why Go?

Kyoto is old Japan writ large: quiet temples, sublime gardens, colourful shrines

and geisha scurrying to exclusive engagements. With more than 1000 Buddhist

temples and over 400 Shintō shrines it is one of the world’s most culturally rich

cities. But Kyoto is not just about sightseeing: while the rest of Japan has

adopted modernity with abandon, the old ways are still clinging on here. Visit

an old shōtengai (market street) and admire the ancient speciality shops: tofu

sellers, washi (Japanese handmade paper) stores and tea merchants.

Traditional Japanese culture – and thus Kyoto itself – is intimately bound to

the changing of the seasons. Everything shifts with the passage of time: the

blooms in a temple garden, the garnishes on a plate served during a formal

kaiseki (haute cuisine) meal, even the patterns of a geisha’s kimono. Whether

this is your first visit or your 10th, the city is bound to surprise you with

something new and extraordinary.

When to Go

Mar–May Cherry blossoms (late March to early April) are enchanting, as are

spring geisha dances.

Jul–Sep Summer evenings are magical (though summer days are hot and

humid).

Oct–early Dec Fall foliage makes the perfect backdrop for Kyoto’s temples,

shrines and gardens.

Best Places to Eat

A Kikunoi

A Omen

A Giro Giro Hitoshina

A Yoshikawa

A Honke Owariya

A Goya

Best Places to Stay

A Tawaraya

A Ritz-Carlton Kyoto

A Four Seasons

A Lower East 9 Hostel

A Shiraume Ryokan

A Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto

Kyoto Highlights

1 Kinkaku-ji Marvelling at this gold-plated temple floating over its

tranquil pond.

2 Fushimi Inari-Taisha Passing through the magical tunnel of vermillion

gates at this shrine.

3 Gion Strolling though the atmospheric district at night for a glimpse of

old Japan.

4 Ginkaku-ji Taking the bamboo-lined path to Kyoto’s famed ‘Silver

Pavilion’.

5 Chion-in Letting your soul be soothed by the chanting monks.

6 Kaiseki Splurging on a once-in-a-lifetime kaiseki meal at a restaurant

like Kikunoi.

7 Nishiki Market Shopping for local gourmet goods at Kyoto’s signature,

central market.

8 Shopping Finding that perfect souvenir, such as antique lacquerware or a

bright wagasa.

9 Geisha Dances Seeing Kyoto’s geiko performing classical arts.

History

Kyoto served as the capital of Japan for an almost unbroken stretch from the

8th century to the mid-19th century. (The city’s nearly 1000-year reign was

interrupted in the 12th and 13th centuries, when the first feudal government

was established in Kamakura.) It was in Kyoto that the Heian-era (794–1185)

court laid down the foundation for the Japanese aesthetic and here that the

ascendant warrior class of the 15th and 16th centuries refined it, developing the

tea ceremony, ikebana (art of flower arranging) and the elegant architectural

style that can still be seen in the city’s temples today.

When the emperor was reinstated as head of the country following the Meiji

Restoration in 1868 and the imperial residence moved to Tokyo, the eastern

city took on the mantle of nation’s capital – though Kyoto remains in hearts

and minds the cultural capital of the country.

Greater Kyoto

1 Top Sights

1 Fushimi Inari-Taisha

E7

2 Saihō-ji

B6

3 Tōfuku-ji

E7

1 Sights

4 Jingo-ji

A3

5 Kamigamo-jinja

D3

6 Katsura Rikyū

C6

7 Kōzan-ji

A3

8 Kyoto Railway Museum

D6

9 Saimyō-ji

A3

10 Shūgaku-in Rikyū Imperial Villa

F3

11 Tō-ji

D6

4 Sleeping

12 Garnet Hotel

E6

13 Hotel Anteroom

E7

14 Lower East 9 Hostel

E7

15 Mosaic Hostel

D6

5 Eating

16 Vegans Cafe & Restaurant

E7

6 Drinking & Nightlife

17 Bungalow

D5

18 Hiranoya

A4

19 Kyoto Brewing Company

D7

20 Vermillion Espresso Bar

E7

1 Sights

Kyoto Station Area

1 Sights

1 Higashi Hongan-ji

C2

2 Kyoto Station

C4

3 Kyoto Tower Observation Deck

C3

4 Nishi Hongan-ji

A1

4 Sleeping

5 Hotel Granvia Kyoto

C3

6 Ibis Styles Kyoto Station

C4

7 K’s House Kyoto

D2

8 Ryokan Shimizu

B2

5 Eating

9 Eat Paradise

B3

10 Kyoto Rāmen Kōji

B3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

11 Kurasu

A3

Roots of all Evil

(see 3)

7 Shopping

12 JR Isetan Department Store

B3

8 Information

13 Kyoto Tourist Information Center

B4

1 Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

o Fushimi Inari-Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伏見稲荷大社; 68 Yabunouchi-chō, Fukakusa, Fushimi-ku; hdawn-dusk; dJR Nara line to Inari or Keihan line to Fushimi-Inari) F

With seemingly endless arcades of vermilion torii (shrine gates) spread across

a thickly wooded mountain, this vast shrine complex is a world unto its own. It

is, quite simply, one of the most impressive and memorable sights in Kyoto.

The entire complex, consisting of five shrines, sprawls across the wooded

slopes of Inari-san. A pathway wanders 4km up the mountain and is lined with

dozens of atmospheric sub-shrines.

Fushimi Inari was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family

in the 8th century. As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were enrolled

to ensure prosperity in business. Nowadays, the shrine is one of Japan’s most

popular, and is the head shrine for some 40,000 Inari shrines scattered the

length and breadth of the country.

As you explore the shrine, you will come across hundreds of stone foxes.

The fox is considered the messenger of Inari, the god of cereals, and the stone

foxes, too, are often referred to as Inari. The key often seen in the fox’s mouth

is for the rice granary. On an incidental note, the Japanese traditionally see the

fox as a sacred, somewhat mysterious figure capable of ‘possessing’ humans –

the favoured point of entry is under the fingernails.

The walk around the upper precincts of the shrine is a pleasant day hike. It

also makes for a very eerie stroll in the late afternoon and early evening, when

the various graveyards and miniature shrines along the path take on a

mysterious air. It’s best to go with a friend at this time.

On 8 April there’s a Sangyō-sai festival with offerings and dances to ensure

prosperity for national industry. During the first few days in January, thousands

of believers visit this shrine as their hatsu-mōde (first shrine visit of the new

year) to pray for good fortune. For info on the shrine’s many schedules, see

www.inari.jp/en/rite.

o Tōfuku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東福寺; %075-561-0087; www.tofukuji.jp; 15-778 Honmahi, Higashiyama-ku; Hōjō garden ¥400, Tsūten-kyō bridge ¥400; h9am-4pm; dKeihan line to Tōfukuji or JR Nara line to

Tōfukuji)

Home to a spectacular garden, several superb structures and beautiful precincts,

Tōfuku-ji is one of the best temples in Kyoto. It is linked to Fushimi Inari-

Taisha by the Keihan and JR train lines. The present temple complex includes

24 subtemples. The huge San-mon is the oldest Zen main gate in Japan, the

Hōjō (Abbot’s Hall) was reconstructed in 1890, and the gardens were laid out

in 1938.

The northern garden has stones and moss neatly arranged in a chequerboard

pattern. From a viewing platform at the back of the gardens you can observe

the Tsūten-kyō (Bridge to Heaven), which spans a valley filled with maples.

Founded in 1236 by the priest Enni, Tōfuku-ji belongs to the Rinzai sect of

Zen Buddhism. As this temple was intended to compare with Tōdai-ji and

Kōfuku-ji in Nara, it was given a name combining characters from the names

of each of these temples.

Tōfuku-ji offers regular Zen meditation sessions for beginners, but don’t

expect coddling or English-language explanations: this is the real deal. Get a

Japanese speaker to enquire at the temple about the next session (it holds about

four a month for beginners).

Note that Tōfuku-ji is one of Kyoto’s most famous autumn-foliage spots, and

it is invariably packed during the peak of colours in November. Otherwise, it’s

often very quiet.

Kyoto Station

NOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都駅; www.kyoto-station-building.co.jp; Karasuma-dōri, Higashishiokōji-chō, Shiokōjisagaru, Shimogyō-ku; dKyoto Station)

The Kyoto Station building is a striking steel-and-glass structure – a kind of

futuristic cathedral for the transport age – with a tremendous space that arches

above you as you enter the main concourse. Be sure to take the escalator from

the 7th floor on the east side of the building up to the 11th-floor glass corridor,

Skyway (open 10am to 10pm), that runs high above the main concourse of the

station, and catch some views from the 15th-floor Sky Garden terrace.

Tō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東寺; www.toji.or.jp; 1 Kujō-chō, Minami-ku; ¥800, grounds free; h8.30am-5pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 4.30pm rest of year; gKyoto City bus 205 from Kyoto Station, dKintetsu

Kyoto line to Tōji)

One of the sights south of Kyoto Station, Tō-ji is an appealing complex of halls

and a fantastic pagoda that makes a fine backdrop for the monthly flea market

held on the grounds. The temple was established in 794 by imperial decree to

protect the city. In 823 the emperor handed it over to Kūkai (known

posthumously as Kōbō Daishi), the founder of the Shingon school of

Buddhism.

Nishi Hongan-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 西本願寺; Horikawa-dōri, Hanayachō-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; h5.30am-5pm; dKyoto Station) F

A vast temple complex, Nishi Hongan-ji comprises several buildings that

feature some of the finest examples of architecture and artistic achievement

from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1603). The Goei-dō is a

marvellous sight. Another must-see building is the Daisho-in hall, which has

sumptuous paintings, carvings and metal ornamentation. A small garden and

two nō (stylised Japanese dance-drama) stages are connected with the hall. The

dazzling Kara-mon has intricate ornamental carvings.

Higashi Hongan-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東本願寺, Eastern Temple of the True Vow; www.higashihonganji.or.jp; Karasuma-dōri, Shichijō-agaru, Shimogyō-ku; h5.50am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 6.20am-4.30pm Nov-Feb;

dKyoto Station) F

Higashi Hongan-ji is the last word in all things grand and gaudy. Considering

its proximity to the station, the free admission, the awesome structures and the

dazzling interiors, this temple is the obvious spot to visit when near the station.

The temple is dominated by the vast Goei-dō (Main Hall), said to be the

second-largest wooden structure in Japan, standing 38m high, 76m long and

58m wide. An audio guide (¥500) is available at the information centre.

Kyoto Railway Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 梅小路蒸気機関車館; www.kyotorailwaymuseum.jp; Kankiji-chō,

Shimogyō-ku; adult ¥1200, child ¥200-500; h10am-5.30pm, closed Wed; c; gKyoto City bus 103, 104

or 110 from Kyoto Station to Umekōji-kōen/Kyoto Railway Museummae)

This superb museum is spread over three floors showcasing 53 trains, from

vintage steam locomotives in the outside Roundhouse Shed to commuter trains

and the first shinkansen from 1964. Kids will love the interactive displays and

impressive railroad diorama with miniature trains zipping through the intricate

landscape. You can also take a 10-minute ride on one of the smoke-spewing

choo-choos (adult/child ¥300/100).

WORTH A TRIP

BYŌDŌ-IN: HEIAN ERA ART & ARCHITECTURE

Byōdō-in (平等院; %0774-21-2861; www.byodoin.or.jp; 116 Uji-renge, Uji-shi; adult/child

¥600/300; hgardens 8.30am-5.30pm, Hōō-dō 9.30am-4.10pm; dJR Nara line or Keihan line to Uji)

is home to one of the loveliest Buddhist structures in Japan: the Hōō-dō hall (Phoenix Hall), which

is depicted on the back of the Japanese ¥10 coin. Perched overlooking a serene reflecting pond, this

refurbished hall is a stunning sight. Paired with a stroll along the banks of the nearby Uji-gawa,

this temple makes a good half-day trip out of Kyoto City.

This temple was converted from a Fujiwara villa into a Buddhist temple in 1052. The Hōō-dō,

the main hall of the temple, was built in 1053 and is the only original building remaining. The

phoenix used to be a popular mythical bird in China and was revered by the Japanese as a protector

of Buddha. The architecture of the building resembles the shape of the bird and there are two

bronze phoenixes perched opposite each other on the roof. Guided 15-minute tours (an extra ¥300)

inside the hall are in Japanese but there is an English leaflet.

The Hōō-dō was originally intended to represent Amida’s heavenly palace in the Pure Land.

This building is one of the few extant examples of Heian-period architecture, and its graceful lines

make you wish that far more had survived the wars and fires that have plagued Kyoto’s past. Inside

the hall is the famous statue of Amida Buddha and 52 bosatsu (Bodhisattvas) dating from the 11th

century and attributed to the priest-sculptor Jōchō.

The modern Hoshokan Museum (9am to 5pm) contains the original temple bell and door

paintings and the original phoenix roof adornments, along with a collection of Unchū Kuyō

Bosatsu Buddhist statues. Allow about an hour all up for your visit.

Kyoto Tower Observation Deck

VIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都タワー; Karasuma-dōri, Shichijō-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; adult ¥770, child ¥150-520; h9am-9pm; dKyoto Station)

Located opposite Kyoto Station, this retro tower (1964) looks like a rocket

perched atop the Kyoto Tower Hotel. The observation deck provides excellent

views in all directions and you can really get a sense for the Kyoto bonchi (flat

basin). It’s a great place to get oriented to the city upon arrival. There are free

mounted binoculars to use and a cool touch screen information panel showing

what the view looks like both day and night.

Downtown Kyoto

1 Top Sights

1 Nishiki Market

B3

1 Sights

2 Kyoto International Manga Museum

A1

3 Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum

C3

4 Ponto-chō

D3

4 Sleeping

5 Citadines Karasuma-Gojō Kyoto

B5

6 Hiiragiya Ryokan

C1

7 Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo

D2

8 Hotel Vista Premio Kyoto

C2

9 Len Hostel Kyoto Kawaramachi

C5

10 Millennials

D2

11 Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto

D2

12 Tawaraya

C1

Yoshikawa

(see 28)

5 Eating

13 Biotei

B2

14 Ganko

D2

15 Giro Giro Hitoshina

C5

16 Gyoza Chao Chao Sanjo-Kiyamachi

D2

17 Gyoza Chao Chao Shijo-Kawaramachi

D3

18 Honke Owariya

B1

19 Ippūdō

B3

20 Kiyamachi Sakuragawa

D1

21 Kyōgoku Kane-yo

C2

22 Menami

D2

23 Mishima-tei

C2

24 Roan Kikunoi

D3

25 Saryo Suisen

B4

26 Sushi no Musashi

C2

27 Tagoto Honten

C3

28 Yoshikawa

C1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

29 Atlantis

D3

30 Bee’s Knees

D3

31 Kiln

D3

32 Nokishita 711

D4

33 Sake Bar Yoramu

B1

34 Taigu

D1

35 Weekenders Coffee

C2

3 Entertainment

36 Kamogawa Odori

D2

37 Taku-Taku

C4

7 Shopping

38 Aritsugu

C3

39 BAL

D2

40 Daimaru

B3

41 Kyūkyo-dō

C1

Maruzen

(see 39)

42 Mimuro

A5

43 Takashimaya

D3

44 Tokyu Hands

B3

45 Wagami no Mise

B4

1 Downtown Kyoto

o Nijō-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 二条城; 541 Nijōjō-chō, Nijō-dōri, Horikawa nishi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; adult/child ¥600/200; h8.45am-5pm, last entry 4pm, closed Tue Dec, Jan, Jul & Aug; bTōzai line to

Nijō-jō-mae, dJR line to Nijō)

The military might of Japan’s great warlord generals, the Tokugawa shoguns, is

amply demonstrated by the imposing stone walls and ramparts of their great

castle, Nijō-jō, which dominates a large part of northwest Kyoto. Hidden

behind these you will find a superb palace surrounded by beautiful gardens.

Avoid crowds by visiting just after opening or shortly before closing.

This castle was built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first

Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu. The ostentatious style of its construction was

intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu’s prestige and also to signal the demise

of the emperor’s power. As a safeguard against treachery, Ieyasu had the

interior fitted with ‘nightingale’ floors (that sing and squeak at every move,

making it difficult for intruders to move about quietly), as well as concealed

chambers where bodyguards could keep watch.

After passing through the grand Karamon gate, you enter Ninomaru

Palace, which is divided into five buildings with numerous chambers. The

Ōhiroma Yon-no-Ma (Fourth Chamber) has spectacular screen paintings.

Don’t miss the excellent Ninomaru Palace Garden, which was designed by

the tea master and landscape architect Kobori Enshū.

Audio guides are available (¥500) and English guided tours run daily at

10.30am and 12.30pm (¥2000, not including entry price).

o Nishiki Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 錦市場; Nishikikōji-dōri, btwn Teramachi & Takakura, Nakagyō-ku; h9am-5pm; bKarasuma line to Shijō, dHankyū line to Karasuma or Kawaramachi)

Head to the covered Nishiki Market to check out the weird and wonderful

foods that go into Kyoto cuisine. It’s in the centre of town, one block north of

(and parallel to) Shijō-dōri, running west off Teramachi covered arcade.

Wander past stalls selling everything from barrels of tsukemono (pickled

vegetables) and cute Japanese sweets to wasabi salt and fresh sashimi skewers.

Drop into Aritsugu here for some of the best Japanese chef’s knives money can

buy.

Nishiki Market | PICTUREPARTNERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都浮世絵美術館; %075-223-3003; www.kyoto-ukiyoe-museum.com;

2nd fl, Kirihata Bldg, Shijō-dōri, Teramachi Nishiiri, Shimogyō-ku; adult/child ¥1000/300; h10.30am-

6.30pm; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

Opened in 2017, this one-room museum displays a selection of ukiyo-e

(woodblock prints) by some of Japan’s most well-known artists, including

Hiroshige Utagawa, Utamaro Kitagawa and Hokusai Katsushika. Ukiyo-e is

said to have originated in the 16th century with prints showing the lives of

common people in Kyoto, and most of the works shown here are of scenes

from Kyoto. The exhibitions change every few months but Japan’s most

famous ukiyo-e work, Hokusai’s The Great Wave off Kanagawa, is

permanently on display.

Ponto-chō

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 先斗町; Ponto-chō, Nakagyō-ku; bTōzai line to Sanjo-Keihan or Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, dKeihan line to Sanjo, Hankyū line to Kawaramachi)

There are few streets in Asia that rival this narrow pedestrian-only walkway for

atmosphere. Not much to look at by day, the street comes alive at night, with

wonderful lanterns, traditional wooden exteriors, and elegant Kyotoites

disappearing into the doorways of elite old restaurants and bars.

KYOTO IN…

Two Days

Start your Kyoto experience by heading to the city’s most important sightseeing district, Southern

Higashiyama, to visit Kiyomizu-dera, Chion-in and Maruyama-kōen. If you’ve still got energy,

walk off lunch with a stroll from Nanzen-ji up the Path of Philosophy to Ginkaku-ji in Northern

Higashiyama. On the second day, head to the northwest corner of the city to see stunning Kinkaku-

ji and the Zen garden at Ryōan-ji. From here, hop in a taxi for Arashiyama, for the temple Tenryū-

ji and its famous bamboo grove. Finish up the evening with a stroll through the historic geisha

districts, Gion and Ponto-chō.

Four Days

With four days, we recommend doing the above in three days, rather than two, to give yourself

more time to explore smaller sights en route and soak up the atmosphere. On the fourth day, take a

break from temples to stroll around downtown, hitting the excellent Nishiki Market and nearby

craft shops and department stores for souvenirs, maybe taking a walk along the Kamo-gawa or

holding a picnic in Kyoto Imperial Palace Park. Then head for a night out in the bars lining pretty

Kiyomachi-dōri.

Kyoto International Manga Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都国際マンガミュージアム; www.kyotomm.jp; Karasuma-dōri, Oike-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; adult/child ¥800/100; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu; c; bKarasuma or Tōzai lines to

Karasuma-Oike)

Located in an old elementary school building, this museum is the perfect

introduction to the art of manga (Japanese comics). It has 300,000 manga in its

collection, 50,000 of which are on display in the Wall of Manga exhibit. While

most of the manga and displays are in Japanese, the collection of translated

works is growing. In addition to the galleries that show both the historical

development of manga and original artwork done in manga style, there are

beginners’ workshops and portrait drawings on weekends.

Southern Higashiyama

1 Top Sights

1 Chion-in

D2

2 Gion

D4

3 Kiyomizu-dera

D5

4 Shōren-in

D2

1 Sights

5 Kennin-ji

B4

6 Kōdai-ji

D4

7 Kyoto National Museum

B7

8 Maruyama-kōen

D3

9 Ninen-zaka & Sannen-zaka Area

C4

10 Sanjūsangen-dō Temple

B7

11 Yasaka-jinja

C3

12 Yasui Konpira-gū

B4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

13 Camellia Tea Experience

C4

14 En

C2

4 Sleeping

15 Book \+ Bed Hostel

B3

16 Four Seasons

C7

Gion Hatanaka

(see 37)

17 Gojō Guest House

B5

18 Hyatt Regency Kyoto

B7

19 Koto Inn

D1

20 Kyoto Granbell Hotel

B3

21 Motonago

C3

22 Old Kyoto

B4

23 Seikōrō

A5

24 Shiraume Ryokan

B2

5 Eating

25 Bamboo

C1

26 Chidoritei

B3

27 Gion Karyō

B3

28 Gion Yuki

B2

29 Kagizen Yoshifusa

B3

Kasagi-ya

(see 9)

30 Kikunoi

D3

31 Omen Kodai-ji

C4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

32 Beer Komachi

C1

33 Gion Finlandia Bar

B3

Tōzan Bar

(see 18)

3 Entertainment

34 Gion Corner

B3

35 Gion Odori

C2

36 Kyō Odori

A4

37 Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko Evening

C3

38 Minamiza

B3

Miyako Odori

(see 34)

7 Shopping

39 Asahi-dō

D5

40 Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu

C2

1 Southern Higashiyama

Southern Higashiyama, at the base of Higashiyama (Eastern Mountains), is

Kyoto’s richest area for sightseeing. Thick with temples, shrines, museums and

traditional shops, it’s great to explore on foot, with some pedestrian-only

walkways plus parks and expansive temple grounds. It’s also home to the Gion

entertainment district and some of the city’s finest ryokan.

This is Kyoto’s most popular sightseeing district, so it will be crowded

during peak seasons. Walking or taking the train/subway is the way to go as

traffic comes to a standstill and buses are slow and overcrowded.

o Kiyomizu-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 清水寺; %075-551-1234; www.kiyomizudera.or.jp; 1-294 Kiyomizu,

Higashiyama-ku; adult/child ¥400/200; h6am-6pm, closing times vary seasonally; gKyoto City bus 206

to Kiyōmizu-michi or Gojō-zaka, dKeihan line to Kiyomizu-Gojō)

A buzzing hive of activity perched on a hill overlooking the basin of Kyoto,

Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most popular and most enjoyable temples. It

may not be a tranquil refuge, but it represents the favoured expression of faith

in Japan. The excellent website is a great first port of call for information on

the temple, plus a how-to guide to praying here. Note that the Main Hall is

undergoing renovations and may be covered, but is still accessible.

This ancient temple was first built in 798, but the present buildings are

reconstructions dating from 1633. As an affiliate of the Hossō school of

Buddhism, which originated in Nara, it has successfully survived the many

intrigues of local Kyoto schools of Buddhism through the centuries and is now

one of the most famous landmarks of the city (for which reason it can get very

crowded during spring and autumn).

The Hondō (Main Hall) has a huge verandah that is supported by pillars and

juts out over the hillside. Just below this hall is the waterfall Otowa-no-taki,

where visitors drink sacred waters believed to bestow health and longevity.

Dotted around the precincts are other halls and shrines. At Jishu-jinja, the

shrine up the steps above the main hall, visitors try to ensure success in love by

closing their eyes and walking about 18m between a pair of stones – if you

miss the stone, your desire for love won’t be fulfilled! Note that you can ask

someone to guide you, but if you do, you’ll need someone’s assistance to find

your true love.

Before you enter the actual temple precincts, check out the Tainai-meguri,

the entrance to which is just to the left (north) of the pagoda that is located in

front of the main entrance to the temple (¥100 donation; open 9am to 4pm). We

won’t tell you too much about it as it will ruin the experience. Suffice to say

that by entering the Tainai-meguri, you are symbolically entering the womb of

a female bodhisattva. When you get to the rock in the darkness, spin it in either

direction to make a wish.

The steep approach to the temple is known as Chawan-zaka (Teapot Lane)

and is lined with shops selling Kyoto handicrafts, local snacks and souvenirs.

Check the website for the scheduling of special night-time illuminations of

the temple held in spring and autumn.

o Gion

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 祇園周辺; Higashiyama-ku; bTōzai line to Sanjō, dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Gion is the famous entertainment and geisha quarter on the eastern bank of the

Kamo-gawa. While Gion’s true origins were in teahouses catering to weary

visitors to the nearby shrine Yasaka-jinja, by the mid-18th century the area was

Kyoto’s largest pleasure district. The best way to experience Gion today is with

an evening stroll around the atmospheric streets lined with 17th-century

traditional restaurants and teahouses lit up with lanterns. Start off on the main

street Hanami-kōji, which runs north–south and bisects Shijō-dōri.

o Chion-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 知恩院; www.chion-in.or.jp; 400 Rinka-chō, Higashiyama-ku; adult/child

¥500/250, grounds free; h9am-4.30pm, last entry 3.50pm; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

A collection of soaring buildings, spacious courtyards and gardens, Chion-in

serves as the headquarters of the Jōdo sect, the largest school of Buddhism in

Japan. It’s the most popular pilgrimage temple in Kyoto and it’s always a hive

of activity. For visitors with a taste for the grand, this temple is sure to satisfy.

Chion-in was established in 1234 on the site where Hōnen, one of the most

famous figures in Japanese Buddhism, taught his brand of Buddhism (Jōdo – or

Pure Land – Buddhism) and eventually fasted to death.

The oldest of the present buildings date to the 17th century. The two-storey

San-mon temple gate is the largest in Japan. The immense Miei-dō Hall (Main

Hall) contains an image of Hōnen. It’s connected to another hall, the Dai Hōjō,

by a ‘nightingale’ floor. Miei-dō Hall is currently under restoration and closed

to the public. It’s expected to be finished by 2020.

Up a flight of steps southeast of the main hall is the temple’s giant bell,

which was cast in 1633 and weighs 70 tonnes. It is the largest bell in Japan.

The bell is rung by the temple’s monks 108 times on New Year’s Eve each

year.

The temple has two gardens – the Hōjō garden designed around a pond in

the chisen kaiyūshiki style, and the Yuzen-en featuring a karesansui (dry

landscape garden).

o Shōren-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 青蓮院; 69-1 Sanjōbō-chō, Awataguchi, Higashiyama-ku; adult/child

¥500/free; h9am-5pm; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

This temple is hard to miss, with its giant camphor trees growing just outside

the walls. Fortunately, most tourists march right on past, heading to the area’s

more famous temples. That’s their loss, because this intimate little sanctuary

contains a superb landscape garden, which you can enjoy while drinking a cup

of green tea (¥500; ask at the reception office, not available in summer).

Kōdai-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高台寺; %075-561-9966; www.kodaiji.com; 526 Shimokawara-chō, Kōdai-ji,

Higashiyama-ku; adult/child ¥600/250; h9am-5.30pm; gKyoto City bus 206 to Yasui, bTōzai line to

Higashiyama)

This exquisite temple was founded in 1605 by Kita-no-Mandokoro in memory

of her late husband, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The extensive grounds include

gardens designed by the famed landscape architect Enshū Kobori, and

teahouses designed by the renowned master of the tea ceremony, Sen no Rikyū.

The ticket also allows entry to the small Sho museum across the road from the

entrance to Kōdai-ji.

Yasui Konpira-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 安井金比羅宮; www.yasui-konpiragu.or.jp; 70 Simobenten-chō,

Higashiyama-ku; h24hr; gKyoto City bus 204 to Higashiyama-Yasui)

This interesting little Shintō shrine on the edge of Gion contains one of the

most peculiar objects we’ve encountered anywhere in Japan: the

enkiri/enmusubi ishi. Resembling some kind of shaggy igloo, this is a stone

that is thought to bind good relationships tighter and sever bad relationships.

If you’d like to take advantage of the stone’s powers, here’s the drill:

purchase a special piece of paper from the counter next to the stone and write

your name and wish on it. If you want to bind your love tighter (figuratively, of

course), grasp the paper and crawl through the tunnel in the stone from front to

back. If you want out of your present relationship, crawl through from back to

front. Then, use the glue provided and stick your wishing paper to the ever-

huge collection of wishes decorating the stone.

Sanjūsangen-dō Temple

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三十三間堂; %075-561-0467; 657 Sanjūsangendōma wari-chō, Higashiyama-ku; adult/child ¥600/300; h8am-5pm Apr–mid-Nov, 9am-4pm mid-Nov–Mar; gKyoto City

bus 206 or 208 to Sanjūsangen-dō-mae, dKeihan line to Shichijō)

This superb temple’s name refers to the 33 sanjūsan (bays) between the pillars

of this long, narrow edifice. The building houses 1001 wooden statues of

Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy); the chief image, the 1000-armed

Senjū-Kannon, was carved by the celebrated sculptor Tankei in 1254. It is

flanked by 500 smaller Kannon images, neatly lined in rows. The visual effect

is stunning, making this a must-see in Southern Higashiyama and a good

starting point for exploration of the area.

Maruyama-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 円山公園; Maruyama-chō, Higashiyama-ku; bTōzai line to Higashiyama) Maruyama-kōen is a favourite of locals and visitors alike. This park is the place

to come to escape the bustle of the city centre and amble around gardens,

ponds, souvenir shops and restaurants. Peaceful paths meander through the

trees, and carp glide through the waters of a small pond in the park’s centre.

For two weeks in early April, when the park’s cherry trees come into bloom,

the calm atmosphere is shattered by hordes of drunken revellers having hanami

(cherryblossom viewing) parties under the trees. The centrepiece is a massive

shidare-zakura cherry tree; this is one of the most beautiful sights in Kyoto,

particularly the yozakura (night cherry blossoms) when lit up from below at

night. For those who don’t mind crowds, this is a good place to observe the

Japanese at their most uninhibited. Arrive early and claim a good spot high on

the east side of the park, from where you can peer down on the mayhem below.

Yasaka-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 八坂神社; %075-561-6155; www.yasaka-jinja.or.jp; 625 Gion-machi, Kita-

gawa, Higashiyama-ku; h24hr; bTōzai line to Higashiyama) F

This colourful and spacious shrine is considered the guardian shrine of the

Gion entertainment district. It’s a bustling place that is well worth a visit while

exploring Southern Higashiyama; it can easily be paired with Maruyama-kōen,

the park just up the hill.

Kyoto National Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都国立博物館; www.kyohaku.go.jp; 527 Chaya-machi, Higashiyama-ku; admission varies; h9.30am-5pm, to 8pm Fri & Sat, closed Mon; gKyoto City bus 206 or 208 to

Sanjūsangen-dō-mae, dKeihan line to Shichijō)

The Kyoto National Museum is the city’s premier art museum and plays host to

the highest-level exhibitions in the city. It was founded in 1895 as an imperial

repository for art and treasures from local temples and shrines. The Heisei

Chishinkan, designed by Taniguchi Yoshio and opened in 2014, is a brilliant

modern counterpoint to the original red-brick main hall building, which was

closed and undergoing structural work at the time of research. Check the Kyoto

Visitor’s Guide to see what’s on while you’re in town.

Kennin-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 建仁寺; www.kenninji.jp; 584 Komatsu-chō, Yamatoōji-dōri, Shijo-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; ¥500; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Founded in 1202 by the monk Eisai, Kennin-ji is the oldest Zen temple in

Kyoto. It is an island of peace and calm on the border of the boisterous Gion

nightlife district and it makes a fine counterpoint to the worldly pleasures of

that area. The highlight at Kennin-ji is the fine and expansive kare-sansui

garden. The painting of the twin dragons on the roof of the Hōdō hall is also

fantastic.

MAIKO MANNERS

In Kyoto, maiko (apprentice geisha) are easily distinguished by their long trailing obi (sash) and

okobo (towering wooden clogs that keep their kimono from trailing on the ground); they also wear

their own hair sculpted in impressive poofs and swoops, accentuated with opulent (and extremely

expensive) ornaments, called kanzashi.

No doubt spotting a maiko dressed to the hilt on the street in Kyoto is a wondrous experience,

and a photo is a much-coveted souvenir of a visit to Japan. However, please keep in mind that these

are young women – many of whom are minors – trying to get to work. Kyoto’s maiko report

feeling harassed by tourists blocking their path and cornering them, without permission, for photos.

Let them through; maiko and geisha are professionals – if you want to get close to them, support

their art and go to see them perform. You can also find plenty of tourists dressed as geisha on the

streets of Higashiyama during the daytime; many are happy to be photographed if asked.

Ninen-zaka & Sannen-zaka Area

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 二年坂・三年坂; Higashiyama-ku; gKyoto City bus 206 to Kiyomizu-michi or Gojō-zaka, dKeihan line to Kiyomizu-Gojō)

Just downhill from and slightly to the north of Kiyomizu-dera, you will find

one of Kyoto’s loveliest restored neighbourhoods, the Ninen-zaka–Sannen-

zaka area. The name refers to the two main streets of the area: Ninen-zaka and

Sannen-zaka, literally ‘Two-Year Hill’ and ‘Three-Year Hill’ (the years

referring to the ancient imperial years when they were first laid out). These two

charming streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and

restaurants.

Northern Higashiyama

1 Top Sights

1 Eikan-dō

H5

2 Ginkaku-ji

H2

3 Nanzen-ji

G6

1 Sights

4 Fureai-Kan Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts

D6

5 Heian-jingū

E5

6 Hōnen-in

H2

7 Konchi-in

G7

8 Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in

H7

9 National Museum of Modern Art

E6

10 Path of Philosophy \(Tetsugaku-no-Michi\)

H2

4 Sleeping

11 Kyoto Garden Ryokan Yachiyo

F6

12 Ritz-Carlton Kyoto

B6

13 Roku Roku

G4

14 Westin Miyako Kyoto

F7

5 Eating

15 Au Temps Perdu

E6

16 Goya

F1

17 Hinode Udon

G5

18 Hyōtei

F6

19 Omen

H2

20 Sujata

D1

21 Usagi no Ippo

E6

6 Drinking & Nightlife

22 Bar K6

B6

Kaboku Tearoom

(see 26)

23 Kick Up

G7

24 Metro

B5

3 Entertainment

25 ROHM Theatre Kyoto

D5

7 Shopping

26 Ippōdō Tea

A5

27 Kyoto Handicraft Center

D4

28 Zōhiko

A6

1 Northern Higashiyama

This area is packed with first-rate attractions and soothing greenery, making it

one of the best parts of the city for relaxed sightseeing.

o Ginkaku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 銀閣寺; 2 Ginkaku-ji-chō, Sakyō-ku; adult/child ¥500/300; h8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 5 to Ginkakuji-michi stop)

Home to a sumptuous garden and elegant structures, Ginkaku-ji is one of

Kyoto’s premier sites. The temple started its life in 1482 as a retirement villa

for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, who desired a place to retreat from the

turmoil of a civil war. While the name Ginkaku-ji literally translates as ‘Silver

Pavilion’, the shogun’s ambition to cover the building with silver was never

realised. After Ashikaga’s death, the villa was converted into a temple.

Walkways lead through the gardens, which include meticulously raked cones

of white sand (said to be symbolic of a mountain and a lake), tall pines and a

pond in front of the temple. A path also leads up the mountainside through the

trees.

Note that Ginkaku-ji is one of the city’s most popular sites, and it is almost

always crowded, especially during spring and autumn. We strongly recommend

visiting right after it opens or just before it closes.

o Eikan-dō

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 永観堂; %075-761-0007; www.eikando.or.jp; 48 Eikandō-chō, Sakyō-ku;

adult/child ¥600/400; h9am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 5 to Eikandō-michi, bTōzai line to Keage)

Perhaps Kyoto’s most famous (and most crowded) autumn-foliage destination,

Eikan-dō is a superb temple just a short walk south of the famous Path of

Philosophy. Eikan-dō is made interesting by its varied architecture, its gardens

and its works of art. It was founded as Zenrin-ji in 855 by the priest Shinshō,

but the name was changed to Eikan-dō in the 11th century to honour the

philanthropic priest Eikan.

o Nanzen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南禅寺; www.nanzenji.com; 86 Fukuchichō, Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; adult/child from ¥300/150, grounds free; h8.40am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 5 to

Eikandō-michi, bTōzai line to Keage)

This is one of the most rewarding temples in Kyoto, with its expansive grounds

and numerous subtemples. At its entrance stands the massive San-mon. Steps

lead up to the 2nd storey, which has a great view over the city. Beyond the gate

is the main hall of the temple, above which you will find the Hōjō, where the

Leaping Tiger Garden is a classic Zen garden well worth a look.

Nanzen-ji began as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but was

dedicated as a Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil war in the 15th century

destroyed most of the temple; the present buildings date from the 17th century.

It operates now as headquarters for the Rinzai school of Zen.

While you’re in the Hōjō, you can enjoy a cup of matcha (powdered green

tea) and a sweet while gazing at a small waterfall (¥500; ask at the reception

desk of the Hōjō).

Perhaps the best part of Nanzen-ji is overlooked by most visitors: Nanzen-ji

Oku-no-in ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 南禅寺奥の院; Fukuchi-chō, Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; hdawn-dusk; gKyoto City bus 5 to Eikandō-michi, bTōzai line to Keage) F, a small shrine hidden in a

forested hollow behind the main precinct. It’s here that pilgrims pray while

standing under the falls, sometimes in the dead of winter.

To get here, walk up to the red-brick aqueduct in front of Nanzen-in. Follow

the road that runs parallel to the aqueduct up into the hills, and walk past (or

through) Kōtoku-an, a small subtemple on your left. Continue up the steps into

the woods until you reach a waterfall in a beautiful mountain glen.

Path of Philosophy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi)

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 哲学の道; Sakyō-ku; gKyoto City bus 5 to Eikandō-michi or Ginkakujimichi, bTōzai line to Keage)

The Tetsugaku-no-Michi is one of the most pleasant walks in Kyoto. Lined

with a great variety of flowering plants, bushes and trees, it is a corridor of

colour throughout most of the year. Follow the traffic-free route along a canal

lined with cherry trees that come into spectacular bloom in early April. It only

takes 30 minutes to do the walk, which starts at Nyakuōji-bashi, above Eikan-

dō, and leads to Ginkaku-ji.

Shūgaku-in Rikyū Imperial Villa

NOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 修学院離宮; %075-211-1215; www.kunaicho.go.jp; Shūgaku-in, Yabusoe, Sakyō-ku; htours 9am, 10am, 11am, 1.30pm & 3pm Tue-Sun; gKyoto City bus 5 from Kyoto Station to

Shūgakuinrikyū-michi) F

One of the highlights of northeast Kyoto, this superb imperial villa was

designed as a lavish summer retreat for the imperial family. Its gardens, with

their views down over the city, are worth the trouble it takes to visit. The one-

hour tours are held in Japanese, with English audio guides free of charge. You

must be over 18 years to enter and bring your passport.

Construction of the villa was begun in the 1650s by Emperor Go-Mizunō,

following his abdication. Work was continued by his daughter Akeno-miya

after his death in 1680.

The villa grounds are divided into three enormous garden areas on a hillside

– lower, middle and upper. Each has superb tea-ceremony houses: the upper,

Kami-no-chaya, and lower, Shimo-no-chaya, were completed in 1659, and

the middle teahouse, Naka-no-chaya, was completed in 1682. The gardens’

reputation rests on their ponds, pathways and impressive use of shakkei

(borrowed scenery) in the form of the surrounding hills. The view from Kami-

no-chaya is particularly impressive.

You can book tickets in advance at the Imperial Household Agency office or

online. Same-day tickets (for afternoon tours only) go on sale at the villa from

11am and are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Fureai-Kan Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; みやこめっせ・京都伝統産業ふれあい館; %075-762-2670;

www.kmtc.jp; 9-1 Seishōji-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; h9am-5pm; bTōzai line to Higashiyama) F

Fureai-Kan has excellent exhibits of traditional Kyoto arts and crafts, including

woodblock prints, lacquerware, bamboo goods and gold-leaf work, with

information panels in English. You can also see a 15-minute geiko (geisha) or

maiko (apprentice geisha) performance, each held one Sunday a month; check

the website for details. It’s located in the basement of Miyako Messe (Kyoto

International Exhibition Hall). The attached shop sells a good range of gifts

and souvenirs.

Heian-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平安神宮; %075-761-0221; Nishitennō-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; h6am-5pm Nov-Feb, to 6pm Mar-Oct; gKyoto City bus 5 to Okazakikoen Bijutsukan/Heianjingu-mae, bTōzai line

to Higashiyama) F

One of Kyoto’s more popular sights, this shrine was built in 1895 to

commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the founding of the city. The shrine

buildings are colourful replicas, reduced to a two-thirds scale, of the Imperial

Court Palace of the Heian period (794–1185). About 500m in front of the

shrine is a massive steel torii. Although it appears to be entirely separate, this is

actually considered the main entrance to the shrine itself.

Hōnen-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 法然院; 30 Goshonodan-chō, Shishigatani, Sakyō-ku; h6am-4pm; gKyoto City bus 5 to Ginkakuji-michi) F

Founded in 1680 to honour the priest Hōnen, this is a lovely, secluded temple

with carefully raked gardens set back in the woods. The temple buildings

include a small gallery where frequent exhibitions featuring local and

international artists are held. If you need to escape the crowds that positively

plague nearby Ginkaku-ji, come to this serene refuge.

Konchi-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金地院; 86-12 Fukuchi-chō, Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; adult/child ¥400/200; h8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 5 to Eikandō-michi, bTōzai line to

Keage)

Just southwest of the main precincts of Nanzen-ji, this fine subtemple has a

wonderful garden designed by Kobori Enshū, known as the Crane and Tortoise

garden. If you want to find a good example of the shakkei technique, look no

further.

KYOTO FOR CHILDREN

Great places for kids to run around include the Imperial Palace Park, Kyoto Botanical Gardens and

the Kamo-gawa riverbank. Museums that are likely to please all ages include the Kyoto Railway

Museum and the Manga Museum. And Kiyomizu-dera, with its legends and hand-on experiences,

is our pick for most fun temple.

National Museum of Modern Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都国立近代美術館; %075-761-4111; www.momak.go.jp; Enshōji-chō,

Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; ¥430; h9.30am-5pm, to 8pm Fri & Sat, closed Mon; gKyoto City bus 5 to

Okazakikoen Bijutsukan/Heianjingu-mae, bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

This museum is renowned for its Japanese ceramics and paintings. There is an

outstanding permanent collection, which includes many pottery pieces by

Kawai Kanjirō. The coffee shop here is a nice place for a break and overlooks a

picturesque canal. The museum also hosts regular special exhibitions, so check

the website for what’s on.

Imperial Palace & Around

1 Top Sights

1 Daitoku-ji

B1

2 Kōtō-in

A1

3 Nijō-jō

B4

1 Sights

4 Daisen-in

B1

5 Kitano Tenman-gū

A2

6 Kyoto Botanical Gardens

C1

7 Kyoto Imperial Palace

C3

8 Kyoto Imperial Palace Park

C3

9 Ryōgen-in

B1

10 Sentō Imperial Palace

C3

11 Shimogamo-jinja

D1

12 Zuihō-in

A1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

13 Funaoka Onsen

B2

14 Haru Cooking Class

C2

4 Sleeping

15 Bird Hostel

C4

16 Mosaic Machiya Hostel

A2

17 Noku Kyoto

C4

18 Palace Side Hotel

C3

5 Eating

19 Café Bibliotec Hello!

C4

20 Falafel Garden

D2

21 Kanei

B2

22 Kazariya

A1

23 Papa Jon’s

C2

24 Sarasa Nishijin

B2

25 Toraya Karyō Kyoto Ichijō

C3

3 Entertainment

26 Jittoku

B3

7 Shopping

27 Aizen Kōbō

B2

1 Imperial Palace & Around

o Daitoku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大徳寺; 53 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; gKyoto City bus 205 or 206

to Daitokuji-mae, bKarasuma line to Kitaōji)

For anyone with the slightest fondness for Japanese gardens, don’t miss this

network of lanes dotted with atmospheric Zen temples. Daitoku-ji, the main

temple here, serves as headquarters for the Rinzai Daitoku-ji school of Zen

Buddhism. It’s not usually open to the public but there are several subtemples

with superb carefully raked karen-sensui (dry landscape) gardens well worth

making the trip out for. Highlights include Daisen-in, Kōtō-in, Ryōgen-in and

Zuihō-in.

Daitoku-ji is on the eastern side of the grounds. It was founded in 1319,

burnt down in the next century and rebuilt in the 16th century. The San-mon

gate (1589) has a self-carved statue of its erector, the famous tea master Sen no

Rikyū, on its 2nd storey.

The Karasuma subway line to Kitaōji Station is the fastest way to get here.

From Kitaōji Station, walk west along Kitaōji-dōri for about 15 minutes. You’ll

see the temple complex on your right. The main entrance is a bit north of

Kitaōji. If you enter from the main gate, which is on the east side of the

complex, you’ll soon find Daitoku-ji on your right. Alternatively, take bus 205

or 206 from Kyoto Station to the Daitokuji-mae bus stop.

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Daisen-in

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大仙院; 54-1 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; adult/child ¥400/270; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 205 or 206 to Daitokuji-mae, bKarasuma

line to Kitaōji)

The two small Zen gardens in this temple are elegant examples of 17thcentury

kare-sansui style. Here the trees, rocks and sand are said to represent and

express various spectacles of nature, from waterfalls and valleys to mountain

lakes. It’s one of the more popular subtemples here.

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Ryōgen-in

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 龍源院; %075-491-7635; 82-1 Daitokujichō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; adult/child

¥350/200; h9am-4.30pm; gKyoto City bus 205 or 206 to Daitokuji-mae, bKarasuma line to Kitaōji)

Ryōgen-in has two pleasing gardens, one moss and one kare-sansui. The kare-

sansui has an interesting island in its midst that invites lazy contemplation.

When you enter the Daitoku-ji complex via the east (main) gate, it’s on the left,

just before Ōbai-in.

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Zuihō-in

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 瑞峯院; %075-491-1454; 81 Daitokujichō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; adult/child

¥400/300; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 205 or 206 to Daitokuji-mae,

bKarasuma line to Kitaōji)

Zuihō-in enshrines the 16th-century Christian daimyō (domain lord) Ōtomo

Sōrin. In the early 1960s, a landscape architect named Shigemori Mirei

rearranged the stones in the back rock garden into the shape of a crucifix. More

interesting is the main rock garden, which is raked into appealing patterns

reminiscent of water ripples. It’s roughly in the middle of the complex; you

may have to ask for directions.

o Kōtō-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高桐院; 73-1 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; ¥400; h9am-4.30pm; gKyoto City bus 205 or 206 to Daitokuji-mae, bKarasuma line to Kitaōji)

On the far western edge of the Daitoku-ji complex, the sublime garden of this

subtemple is one of the best in Kyoto and worth a special trip. It’s located

within a fine bamboo grove that you traverse via a moss-lined path. Once

inside there is a small stroll garden that leads to the centrepiece: a rectangle of

moss and maple trees, backed by bamboo. Take some time on the verandah

here to soak it all up.

Kyoto Imperial Palace Park

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都御苑; Kyoto Gyōen, Kamigyō-ku; hdawn-dusk; bKarasuma line to Marutamachi or Imadegawa) F

The Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) and Sentō Imperial Palace (Sentō

Gosho) are surrounded by the spacious Kyoto Imperial Palace Park, which is

planted with a huge variety of flowering trees and open fields. It’s perfect for

picnics, strolls and just about any sport you can think of. Take some time to

visit the pond at the park’s southern end, which contains gorgeous carp. The

park is most beautiful in the plum- and cherry-blossom seasons (late February

and late March, respectively).

Kyoto Imperial Palace

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都御所, Kyoto Gosho; %075-211-1215; www.kunaicho.go.jp; Kyoto

Gyōen, Kamigyō-ku; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Feb, last entry 40min before closing;

bKarasuma line to Marutamachi or Imadegawa) F

The Kyoto Imperial Palace, known as the Gosho in Japanese, is a walled

complex that sits in the middle of the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park. While no

longer the official residence of the Japanese emperor, it’s still a grand edifice,

though it doesn’t rate highly in comparison with other attractions in Kyoto.

Visitors can wander around the marked route in the grounds where English

signs explain the history of the buildings. Entrance is via the main Seishomon

Gate where you’ll be given a map.

Sentō Imperial Palace

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 仙洞御所, Sentō Gosho; %075-211-1215; www.kunaicho.go.jp; Kyoto Gyōen, Kamigyō-ku; htours 9.30am, 11am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm & 3.30pm Tue-Sun; bKarasuma line to

Marutamachi or Imadegawa) F

The Sentō Gosho is the second imperial property located within the Kyoto

Imperial Palace Park (the other one is the Imperial Palace itself). The structures

are not particularly grand, but the gardens, laid out in 1630 by renowned

landscape designer Enshū Kobori, are excellent. Admission is by one-hour tour

only (in Japanese; English audio guides are free). You must be over 18 years

old and bring your passport. Your ticket can be printed or shown on a

smartphone.

Shimogamo-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 下鴨神社; www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp; 59 Izumigawa-chō, Shimogamo,

Sakyō-ku; h6.30am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 205 to Shimogamo-jinja-mae, dKeihan line to

Demachiyanagi) F

This shrine, dating from the 8th century, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is

nestled in the fork of the Kamo-gawa and Takano-gawa, and is approached

along a shady path through the lovely Tadasu-no-mori. This wooded area is

said to be a place where lies cannot be concealed and is considered a prime

location to sort out disputes. The trees here are mostly broadleaf (a rarity in

Kyoto) and they are gorgeous in the springtime.

Kyoto Botanical Gardens

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都府立植物園; Shimogamohangichō, Sakyō-ku; adult/child gardens

¥200/free, greenhouse ¥200/free; h9am-5pm, greenhouse 10am-4pm; bKarasuma line to Kitayama)

The Kyoto Botanical Gardens occupy 24 hectares and feature over 12,000

plants, flowers and trees. It is pleasant to stroll through the rose, cherry and

herb gardens or see the rows of camphor trees and the large tropical

greenhouse. This is a good spot for a picnic. It’s also the perfect location for a

hanami party, and the blossoms here tend to hold on a little longer than those

elsewhere in the city.

Kamigamo-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 上賀茂神社; %075-781-0011; www.kamigamojinja.jp; 339 Motoyama, Kamigamo, Kita-ku; h6am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 9 to Kamigamo-misonobashi) F

Around 2km north of the Botanical Gardens is Kamigamo-jinja, one of Japan’s

oldest shrines, which predates the founding of Kyoto. Established in 679, it is

dedicated to Raijin, the god of thunder, and is one of Kyoto’s 17 Unesco World

Heritage Sites. The present buildings (more than 40 in all), including the

impressive Haiden hall, are exact reproductions of the originals, dating from

the 17th to 19th centuries.

Northwest Kyoto

1 Top Sights

1 Kinkaku-ji

D1

1 Sights

2 Myōshin-ji

C3

3 Ryōan-ji

C1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Shunkō-in

C3

4 Sleeping

Shunkō-in

(see 4)

5 Eating

5 Gontaro

D1

1 Northwest Kyoto

o Kinkaku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金閣寺; 1 Kinkakuji-chō, Kita-ku; adult/child ¥400/300; h9am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 205 from Kyoto Station to Kinkakuji-michi, gKyoto City bus 12 from Sanjō-Keihan to

Kinkakuji-michi)

Kyoto’s famed ‘Golden Pavilion’, Kinkaku-ji is one of Japan’s best-known

sights. The main hall, covered in brilliant gold leaf, shining above its reflecting

pond is truly spectacular. Needless to say, due to its beauty, the temple can be

packed any day of the year. It’s best to go early in the day or just before

closing, ideally on a weekday.

The original building dates from 1397 and was a retirement villa for shogun

Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. His son converted it into a temple. In 1950 a young

monk consummated his obsession with the temple by burning it to the ground.

The monk’s story was fictionalised in Mishima Yukio’s The Temple of the

Golden Pavilion. In 1955 a full reconstruction was completed that followed the

original design, but the gold-foil covering was extended to the lower floors.

Kinkaku-ji | GOWITHSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ryōan-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 龍安寺; www.ryoanji.jp; 13 Goryōnoshitamachi, Ryōan-ji, Ukyō-ku; adult/child ¥500/300; h8am-5pm Mar-Nov, 8.30am-4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto City bus 59 from Sanjō-Keihan to Ryoanji-mae)

You’ve probably seen a picture of the rock garden here – it’s one of the

symbols of Kyoto and one of Japan’s better-known sights. Ryōan-ji belongs to

the Rinzai school and was founded in 1450. The garden, an oblong of sand

with an austere collection of 15 carefully placed rocks, apparently adrift in a

sea of sand, is enclosed by an earthen wall. The designer, who remains

unknown to this day, provided no explanation.

Although many historians believe the garden was arranged by Sōami during

the Muromachi period (1333–1568), some contend that it is a much later

product of the Edo period. It is Japan’s most famous hiraniwa (flat garden void

of hills or ponds) and reveals the stunning simplicity and harmony of the

principles of Zen meditation.

There is no doubt that it’s a mesmerising and attractive sight, but it’s hard to

enjoy amid the mobs who come to check it off their ‘must-see list’. An early-

morning visit on a weekday is probably your best hope of seeing the garden

under contemplative conditions. If you go when it’s crowded, you’ll find the

less-famous garden around the corner of the stone garden a nice escape.

Myōshin-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 妙心寺; www.myoshinji.or.jp; 1 Myoshin-ji-chō, Hanazono, Ukyō-ku; main temple free, other areas of complex adult/child ¥500/100; h9.10-11.40am & 1-4.40pm, to 3.40pm Nov-Feb; gKyoto City bus 10 from Sanjo-Keihan to Myōshin-ji Kita-mon-mae)

Myōshin-ji is a separate world within Kyoto, a walled-off complex of temples

and subtemples that invites lazy strolling. The subtemple of Taizō-in here

contains one of the city’s more interesting gardens. Myōshin-ji dates from 1342

and belongs to the Rinzai school. There are 47 subtemples, but only a few are

open to the public.

From the north gate, follow the broad stone avenue flanked by rows of

temples to the southern part of the complex. The eponymous Myōshin-ji

temple is roughly in the middle of the complex. Your entry fee entitles you to a

tour of several of the buildings of the temple. The ceiling of the Hattō (Lecture

Hall) here features Tanyū Kanō’s unnerving painting Unryūzu (meaning

‘Dragon glaring in eight directions’). Your guide will invite you to stand

directly beneath the dragon; doing so makes it appear that it’s spiralling up or

down.

Shunkō-in, a subtemple of Myōshin-ji, offers 90-minute zazen (seated Zen

meditation) sessions for foreigners with English explanations for ¥3500; highly

recommended.

RESERVATION & ADMISSION TO KYOTO’S IMPERIAL

PROPERTIES

Visitors no longer have to apply for permission to visit the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The palace,

situated inside the Imperial Palace Park, is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday and you just

need to go straight to the main gate for entry. Children are permitted with an accompanying adult.

Permission to visit the Sentō Imperial Palace, Katsura Rikyū and Shūgaku-in Rikyū is granted

by the Kunaichō, the Imperial Household Agency (宮内庁京都事務所; MAP ; %075-211-1215;

www.kunaicho.go.jp; Imperial Palace Park, Kyoto Gyōen, Kamigyō-ku; h8.40am-5pm, closed Mon; bKarasuma line to Imadegawa), which is inside the Imperial Palace Park. You can book tours

in advance at the Imperial Household Agency office or by filling out the application form on its

website. You must be over 18 years to enter each property. For afternoon tours, it’s also possible to

buy tickets on the same day at the properties themselves from 11am. Only a certain number of

tickets are issued each day, so it’s first-come, first-served. Tours run for 60 minutes and you are

required to arrive at least 20 minutes beforehand. All tours are free and are in Japanese with

English audio guides available. The exception is Katsura Rikyū, which costs ¥1000 and also offers

guided tours in English.

Kitano Tenman-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北野天満宮; www.kitanotenmangu.or.jp; Bakuro-chō, Kamigyō-ku; h5am-6pm Apr-Sep, 5.30am-5.30pm Oct-Mar; gKyoto City bus 50 from Kyoto Station to Kitano-Tenmangū-

mae) F

The most atmospheric Shintō shrine in northwest Kyoto, Kitano Tenman-gū is

also the site of Tenjin-San Market, one of Kyoto’s most popular flea markets.

It’s a pleasant spot for a lazy stroll and the shrine buildings themselves are

beautiful. The present buildings date from 1607 and were built by Toyotomi

Hideyori; the grounds contain an extensive grove of plum trees, which burst

into bloom in early March.

Kitano Tenman-gū | BEIBAOKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Arashiyama & Sagano Area

1 Top Sights

1 Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

B3

2 Ōkōchi Sansō

B3

3 Tenryū-ji

C3

1 Sights

4 Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama

C4

5 Giō-ji

A1

6 Kameyama-kōen

B3

7 Togetsu-kyō

C4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

8 Keifuku Randen Arashiyama Station Foot Onsen

C3

4 Sleeping

9 Arashiyama Benkei

C3

10 Hoshinoya Kyoto

B3

11 Japaning Hotel Liv Ranrokaku Kyoto

C4

5 Eating

12 Arashiyama Yoshimura

C3

13 Kitcho Arashiyama

C3

14 Komichi

B2

15 Shigetsu

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 % Arabica

C3

1 Arashiyama & Sagano

Most of Arashiyama and Sagano’s sights lie on the north bank of the Hozu-

gawa.

The main drag of Arashiyama and Sagano is overdeveloped and not

particularly appealing, aside from its few eating and shopping options. As soon

as you can, head west into the hills to escape into nature (via Tenryū-ji or

straight through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove).

o Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 嵐山竹林; Ogurayama, Saga, Ukyō-ku; hdawn-dusk; gKyoto City bus 28

from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or

Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura) F

The thick green bamboo stalks seem to continue endlessly in every direction

and there’s a strange quality to the light at this famous bamboo grove. It’s most

atmospheric on the approach to Ōkōchi Sansō villa and you’ll be unable to

resist trying to take a few photos, but you might be disappointed with the

results: photos just can’t capture the magic of the place. The grove runs from

outside the north gate of Tenryū-ji to just below Ōkōchi Sansō.

o Ōkōchi Sansō

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大河内山荘; 8 Tabuchiyama-chō, Sagaogurayama, Ukyō-ku; adult/child

¥1000/500; h9am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR

Sagano (San-in) line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

This is the lavish estate of Ōkōchi Denjirō, an actor famous for his samurai

films. The sprawling gardens may well be the most lovely in all of Kyoto,

particularly when you consider the brilliant views eastwards across the city.

The house and teahouse are also sublime. Be sure to follow all the trails around

the gardens. Hold onto the tea ticket you were given upon entry to claim the

matcha and sweet that’s included with admission.

o Saihō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 西芳寺; http://saihoji-kokedera.com; 56 Matsuo Jingatani-chō, Nishikyō-ku;

¥3000; gKyoto bus 73 from Kyoto Station or 63 from Sanjō-Keihan to Koke-dera)

Saihō-ji, one of Kyoto’s best-known gardens, is famed for its superb moss

garden, hence the temple’s nickname: Koke-dera (Moss Temple). The heart-

shaped garden, laid out in 1339 by Musō Kokushi, surrounds a tranquil pond

and is simply stunning. In order to limit the number of visitors, you must apply

to visit at least three weeks in advance, though the earlier the better to avoid

disappointment.

To make a reservation to visit, you need to send a letter (or print and fill out

the template on the website) and include your name, address, number of

visitors and preferred dates, along with a self-addressed postcard for a reply to

your address (in Japan or overseas). Note visitors must be at least 18 years old.

The address to send it to is: Saihō-ji, 56 Matsuo Jingatanichō, Nishikyō-ku,

Kyoto-shi 615-8286, JAPAN. Your return postcard will let you know the date

and time of your visit. Payment is cash only on arrival.

When you arrive at Saihō-ji, visitors are required to copy a sutra with an ink

brush. Foreigners are generally just required to write their name, address and a

prayer, rather than attempt to copy the sutra. Once in the garden, you are free to

explore on your own and at your own pace. The whole visit usually takes

around one hour.

While the process might seem a little over the top, it’s certainly worth the

small effort to organise, particularly if you have a fondness for Japanese

gardens.

o Tenryū-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 天龍寺; %075-881-1235; www.tenryuji.com; 68 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga-

Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; adult/child ¥800/600, garden only ¥500/300; h8.30am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 28

from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano (San-in) line to Saga-Arashiyama or

Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

A major temple of the Rinzai school, Tenryū-ji has one of the most attractive

gardens in all of Kyoto, particularly during the spring cherryblossom and

autumn-foliage seasons. The main 14th-century Zen garden, with its backdrop

of the Arashiyama mountains, is a good example of shakkei (borrowed

scenery). Unfortunately, it’s no secret that the garden here is world class, so it

pays to visit early in the morning or on a weekday.

Togetsu-kyō

BRIDGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 渡月橋; Saga Tenryū-ji, Susukinobaba-chō, Ukyō-ku; gKyoto City bus 28

from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano (San-in) line to Saga-Arashiyama or

Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

The dominant landmark in Arashiyama, this bridge is just a few minutes on

foot from either the Keifuku line or Hankyū line Arashiyama stations. The

original crossing, constructed in 1606, was about 100m upriver from the

present bridge. From July to mid-September, Togetsu-kyō is a good spot from

which to watch ukai (fishing using trained cormorants) in the evening. To get

close to the action you can join a passenger boat, the Kyoto Tourist Information

Center can provide more details.

Kameyama-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 亀山公園; Sagaogurayama, Ukyō-ku; h24hr; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line

to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

Just upstream from Tōgetsu-kyō and behind Tenryū-ji, this park is a nice place

to escape the crowds of Arashiyama. It’s laced with trails, one of which leads

to a lookout over the Katsura-gawa and up into the Arashiyama mountains. It’s

especially attractive during cherry-blossom and autumn-foliage seasons. Keep

an eye out for monkeys, which occasionally descend from the nearby hills to

pick fruit.

Katsura Rikyū

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 桂離宮; %075-211-1215; http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp; Katsura Detached

Palace, Katsura Misono, Nishikyō-ku; adult ¥1000, child 12-17yr free; htours 9.20am, 11.20am, 1.20pm,

3.20pm & 4.20pm Tue-Sun; gKyoto City bus 33 to Katsura Rikyū-mae, dHankyū line to Katsura) F

Katsura Rikyū, one of Kyoto’s imperial properties, is widely considered to be

the pinnacle of Japanese traditional architecture and garden design. Set amid an

otherwise drab neighbourhood, it is (literally) an island of incredible beauty.

Book in advance for one-hour English guided tours. It also runs tours in

Japanese with English audio guides free of charge; tours depart on the hour

from 9am to 4pm and places are on a first-come, first-served basis until

capacity is sold. Bring passport for ID. Note visitors must be at least 12 years

old.

The villa was built in 1624 for the emperor’s brother, Prince Toshihito.

Every conceivable detail of the villa – the teahouses, the large pond with islets

and the surrounding garden – has been given meticulous attention.

You can also book tickets for English guided tours in advance at the Imperial

Household Agency office.

It’s a 15-minute walk from Katsura Station, on the Hankyū line. A taxi from

the station to the villa will cost around ¥600. Alternatively, Kyoto bus 33 stops

at Katsura Rikyū-mae stop, which is a five-minute walk from the villa.

Giō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 祇王寺; www.giouji.or.jp; 32 Kozaka-chō, Sagatoriimoto, Ukyō-ku; adult/child ¥300/100; h9am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae,

dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

This tiny temple near the north end of the main Arashiyama sightseeing route

is one of Kyoto’s hidden gems. Its main attraction is the lush moss garden

outside the thatch-roofed hall of the temple. Giō-ji was named for the Heian-

era shirabyōshi (traditional dancer) Giō, who committed herself here as a nun

at age 21 after her romance ended with Taira-no-Kiyomori, the commander of

the Heike clan.

She was usurped in Kiyomori’s affections by a fellow entertainer, Hotoke

Gozen (who later deserted Kiyomori to join Giō at the temple). Enshrined in

the main hall are five wooden statues: these are Giō, Hotoke Gozen, Kiyomori,

and Giō’s mother and sister (who were also nuns at the temple).

Giō-ji is also known for its autumn-foliage displays.

Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 嵐山モンキーパークいわたやま; %075-872-0950;

www.monkeypark.jp; 8 Genrokuzan-chō, Arashiyama, Ukyō-ku; adult/child ¥550/250; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Sep, to 4.30pm Oct–mid-Mar; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-

mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

Though it is common to spot wild monkeys in the nearby mountains, here you

can encounter them at a close distance and enjoy watching the playful creatures

frolic about. It makes for an excellent photo opportunity, not only of the

monkeys but also of the panoramic view over Kyoto. Refreshingly, it is the

animals who are free to roam while the humans who feed them are caged in a

box!

You enter the park near the south side of Tōgetsu-kyō, through the orange

torii of Ichitani-jinja. Buy your tickets from the machine to the left of the

shrine at the top of the steps. Just be warned: it’s a steep climb up the hill to get

to the monkeys. If it’s a hot day, you’re going to be drenched by the time you

get to the spot where they gather.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

TEMPLES IN TAKAO

The Takao area is tucked far away in the northwestern part of Kyoto. It is famed for autumn foliage

and a trio of temples: Jingo-ji, Saimyō-ji and Kōzan-ji. A trip here is a good way to escape the

crowds that plague some sights closer to downtown.

Down the river from the Takao bus stop, Jingo-ji ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神護寺; 5 Takao-chō, Umegahata, Ukyō-ku; ¥600; h9am-4pm; gKyoto City bus 8 from Shijō Station to Takao, gJR

bus from Kyoto Station to Yamashiro-Takao) is a mountaintop temple at the summit of a long

flight of stairs that stretches from the Kiyotaki-gawa to the temple’s main gate. The Kondō (Gold

Hall) is the most impressive of the temple’s structures, located roughly in the middle of the

grounds at the top of another flight of stairs. Be prepared for a somewhat strenuous climb, but it

will be worth it.

After visiting the Kondō, head in the opposite direction along a wooded path to an open area

overlooking the valley. Here you’ll see people tossing small discs over the railing into the chasm

below. These are kawarakenage, light clay discs that people throw in order to rid themselves of

their bad karma. The trick is to flick the discs very gently, convex side up, like a Frisbee. When

you get it right, they sail all the way down the valley – taking all that bad karma with them (try not

to think about the hikers down below).

About five minutes’ walk upstream from the base of the steps that lead to Jingo-ji, Saimyō-ji (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 西明寺; 2 Makino-chō; ¥500; h9am-5pm) is a fine little temple worth stopping at. The approach over a red wooden bridge is very atmospheric; see if you can find your

way round to the small waterfall at the side of the temple. The grotto here is pure magic.

Kōzan-ji ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 高山寺; 8 Toganoo-chō; to see scroll ¥800; h8.30am-5pm), hidden amid a grove of towering cedar trees, is famous for the chuju giga scroll in its

collection. It’s an ink-brush depiction of frolicking animals that is considered by many to be the

precursor of today’s ubiquitous manga (Japanese comics). The temple is reached by following the

main road north from the Yamashiro-Takao bus stop or, more conveniently, by getting off the JR

bus at the Toga-no-O bus stop, right outside the temple. Note that there is an extra fee of ¥500 to

visit the temple’s gardens during the autumn-foliage season; other times of the year it’s free to

enter the grounds.

To reach Takao, take bus 8 from Nijō Station to the last stop, Takao (¥520, 40 minutes). From

Kyoto Station, take the hourly JR bus to the Yamashiro-Takao stop (¥520, 50 minutes).

2 Activities

o Camellia Tea Experience

TEA CEREMONY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 茶道体験カメリア; %075-525-3238; www.tea-kyoto.com; 349 Masuya-

chō, Higashiyama-ku; per person ¥2000; gKyoto City bus 206 to Yasui)

Camellia is a superb place to try a simple Japanese tea ceremony. It’s located in

a beautiful old Japanese house just off Ninen-zaka. The host speaks fluent

English and explains the ceremony simply and clearly to the group, while

managing to perform an elegant ceremony. The price includes a bowl of

matcha and a sweet.

The 45-minute ceremonies are held on the hour from 10am to 5pm. Private

tea ceremonies are held in a 100-year-old house with lovely gardens close to

Ryōan-ji in northwest Kyoto (¥6000 per person).

Funaoka Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 船岡温泉; 82-1 Minami-Funaokachō-Murasakino, Kita-ku; ¥430; h3pm-1am Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun; gKyoto City bus 206 to Senbon Kuramaguchi)

This old sentō (public bath) on Kuramaguchi-dōri is Kyoto’s best. It boasts an

outdoor bath, a sauna, a cypress-wood tub, an electric bath, a herbal bath and a

few more for good measure. To get here , head west about 400m on

Kuramaguchi-dōri from the Kuramaguchi and Horiikawa intersection. It’s on

the left, not far past Lawson convenience store. Look for the large rocks.

Be sure to check out the ranma (carved wooden panels) in the changing

room. Carved during Japan’s invasion of Manchuria, the panels offer insight

into the prevailing mindset of that era. (Note the panels do contain some

violent imagery, which may disturb some visitors.)

Shunkō-in

MEDITATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 春光院; %075-462-5488; www.shunkoin.com; Myōshin-ji, 42 Myoshin-ji-chō,

Hanazono, Ukyō-ku; class ¥3500; dJR Sagano/San-in line to Hanazono)

A subtemple of Myōshin-ji, Shunkō-in is run by a monk who has studied

abroad and made it his mission to introduce foreigners to his temple and Zen

Buddhism. Regular introductory meditation classes are held in English; check

the website for the schedule. You can also stay overnight in the accommodation

here.

Tea ceremony (¥5500, 90 minutes) and Japanese calligraphy (¥3500, 90

minutes) courses are also on offer; check the website for schedules.

En

TEA CEREMONY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; えん; %080-3782-2706; www.teaceremonyen.com; 272 Matsubara-chō,

Higashiyama-ku; per person ¥2500; gKyoto City bus 206 to Gion or Chionin-mae)

A small teahouse near Gion where you can experience a Japanese tea ceremony

with a minimum of fuss or expense. Check the website for times. English

explanations are provided, and reservations recommended. It’s a bit tricky to

find: it’s down a little alley off Higashiōji-dōri – look for the sign south of

Tenkaippin Rāmen. Cash only.

Keifuku Randen Arashiyama Station Foot Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Keifuku Randen Arashiyama Station; ¥200; h9am-8pm, to 6pm in winter; jKeifuku Randen line to Arashiyama, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to

Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

Give your feet a soak after all the temple-hopping at this foot onsen located at

the end of the Keifuku Arashiyama Randen Station platform. Price includes a

souvenir towel.

WORTH A TRIP

DAIMONJI-YAMA CLIMB

Length 5km; 1½ hours

Located directly behind Ginkaku-ji, Daimonji-yama is the main site of the Daimon-ji Gozan

Okuribi. From almost anywhere in town the Chinese character for ‘great’ (大; dai) is visible in the

middle of a bare patch on the face of this mountain. On 16 August this character is set ablaze to

guide the spirits of the dead on their journey home. The view of Kyoto from the top is unparalleled.

Take Kyoto City bus 5 to the Ginkaku-ji Michi stop and walk up to Ginkaku-ji. Here, you have

the option of visiting the temple or starting the hike immediately. To find the trailhead, turn left in

front of the temple and head north for about 50m towards a stone torii (shrine gate). Just before the

torii, turn right up the hill.

The trail proper starts just after a small car park on the right. It’s a broad avenue through the

trees. You’ll see a signboard and then a bridge after it. Cross the bridge to the right, then continue

up a smaller, switchback trail. When the trail reaches a saddle not far from the top, go to the left.

You’ll climb a long flight of steps before coming out at the top of the bald patch. The sunset from

here is great, but bring a torch.

C Courses & Tours

Uzuki

COOKING

(www.kyotouzuki.com; 2hr class per person from ¥5000)

Learn how to cook some of the delightful foods you’ve tried in Kyoto with this

highly recommended cooking class for groups of two to three people,

conducted in a Japanese home. You will learn how to cook a variety of dishes

(vegan courses are offered) and then sit down and enjoy the fruits of your

labour.

The fee includes all ingredients. Reserve via website. The meeting point is

the Kyoto University of Art and Design in the city’s northeast.

Ninja Food Tours

FOOD

(www.ninjafoodtours.com; 2hr tour from ¥7500)

Runs enjoyable tours of Nishiki Market, a night food tour and a walking tour of

Arashiyama.

Haru Cooking Class

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 料理教室はる; www.kyoto-cooking-class.com; 166-32 Shimogamo

Miyazaki-chō, Sakyō-ku; per person from ¥6900; c)

Haru Cooking Class is a friendly one-man cooking school located in a private

home a little bit north of Demachiyanagi. The school’s teacher, Taro, speaks

English and can teach both vegetarian (though fish stock may be used) and

non-vegetarian cooking in classes that run for three to four hours. Reserve

online.

2 City Walk

Highlights of Northern Higashiyama

START KEAGE STATION

END GINKAKU-JI-MICHI BUS STOP

LENGTH ABOUT 6KM; FOUR HOURS

Start at Keage Station on the Tōzai subway line, walk downhill, cross the pedestrian overpass, head

back uphill and go through the tunnel under the old funicular tracks. This leads to a narrow street

that winds towards 1 Konchi-in.

Just past Konchi-in, take a right on the main road and walk up through the gate into 2 Nanzen-ji.

Continue east, up the slope and you’ll soon see the brick Sōsui aqueduct on your right; cross under

this, take a quick left and walk up the hill towards the mountains. You’ll come first to the lovely

3 Kōtoku-an subtemple. Beyond this, the trail enters the woods. Follow it up to the secluded

4 Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in, a tiny shrine built around a waterfall.

Return the way you came and exit the north side of Nanzen-ji, following the road through a gate.

You’ll soon come to 5 Eikandō, a large temple famous for its artworks and pagoda. At the corner

just beyond Eikan-dō, a sign in English and Japanese points up the hill to the Path of Philosophy. If

you’re hungry, take a short detour north to 6 Hinode Udon, a fine noodle restaurant. Otherwise,

head up the hill to the 7 Path of Philosophy, which is the pedestrian path that heads north along the

canal.

It’s then a straight shot up the lovely tree-lined canal for about 800m until you reach a small sign

in English and Japanese pointing up the hill to 8 Hōnen-in. Follow the sign, take a left at the top of

the hill, walk past a small park and you’ll see the picturesque thatched gate of Hōnen-in. After

checking out the temple (free), exit via the thatched gate and take a quick right downhill.

From here, follow the narrow side streets north to 9 Ginkaku-ji, the famed Silver Pavilion.

z Festivals & Events

Gion Matsuri

PARADE

(hJul)

Kyoto’s most important festival, Gion Matsuri reaches a climax on 17 July

with a parade of over 30 floats and a smaller parade on 24 July. On the three

evenings preceding the 17th, people gather on Shijō-dōri dressed in beautiful

yukata (light summer kimonos) to look at the floats and carouse from one street

stall to the next.

Daimon-ji Gozan Okuribi

CULTURAL

(h16 Aug)

This festival is celebrated as a means of bidding farewell to the souls of

ancestors. Enormous fires, in the form of Chinese characters or other shapes,

are lit on five mountains. The largest fire is burned on Daimon-ji-yama, just

above Ginkaku-ji, in Northern Higashiyama. The fires start at 8pm and the best

perspective is from the banks of the Kamo-gawa.

Kurama-no-hi Matsuri

CULTURAL

(Kurama Fire Festival; h22 Oct)

In perhaps Kyoto’s most dramatic festival, the Kurama Fire Festival, huge

flaming torches are carried through the streets of Kurama by men in loincloths

on 22 October (the same day as the Jidai Matsuri). Note that trains to and from

Kurama will be completely packed with passengers on the evening of the

festival (we suggest going early and returning late).

4 Sleeping

A huge range of hotels and budget guesthouses are clustered around the Kyoto

Station area, while the city’s best ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) can be

found downtown, spread out in Higashiyama, and in the hills of Arashiyama.

Beware that Kyoto’s accommodation can be booked out months in advance,

especially during cherry-blossom season (late March to early April), Golden

Week (29 April to 5 May), Gion Matsuri (mid-July), O-bon (mid-August) and

the November autumn-foliage season. If you’re truly stuck (or priced out),

consider staying in Osaka or Ōtsu instead.

4 Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

o Lower East 9 Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ ロウワー イースト ナインホステル; %075-644-9990;

www.lowereastnine.com; 32 Minamikarasuma-chō, Higashi-kujō, Minami-ku; dm from ¥3800, tw

¥18,000; naW; bKarasuma line to Kujō)

LE9 is a design-savvy hostel in a quiet spot south of Kyoto Station. Dorms

come with thoughtful details, while the private twin rooms are a little pricey for

what you get. It’s kitted out with mid-century furniture and has a cool

downstairs cafebar and communal areas, so you mightn’t want to leave. But if

you do, you’re right next to Kujō Station.

Mosaic Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-672-0511; www.mosaichostel.jp; 4-1 Kasuga-chō, Nishikuj, Minami-ku; dm/tw/q from ¥3000/7000/16,000; naiW; bKarasuma line to Kujō, dKintetsu Kyoto line to Tōji)

There’s a lot to like about this well-run hostel close to Kyoto Station. Capsule-

style dorms – a huge 30-bed, or eight-bed female only – come with thoughtful

details like towel hooks, charging points and a privacy curtain, and there’s a

mix of private rooms. Staff are super friendly, the bar serves local craft beer

and the rooftop terrace is perfect for a sundowner. This is a great spot to meet

other travellers.

Ryokan Shimizu

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京の宿しみず; %075-371-5538; www.kyoto-shimizu.net; 644 Kagiya-chō, Shichijō-dōri, Wakamiya-agaru, Shimogyō-ku; r per person from ¥5000; naiW; dKyoto Station)

A short walk north of Kyoto Station, this friendly ryokan has a loyal following

of foreign guests, and for good reason: it’s clean and well run. Rooms are

standard ryokan style and come with TV, private bathroom and toilet. Bicycle

hire is available. Note there is a midnight curfew.

K’s House Kyoto

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ケイズハウス京都; %075-342-2444; www.kshouse.jp; 418 Naya-chō, Dotemachi-dōri, Shichijō-agaru, Shimogyō-ku; dm from ¥2400, s/d per person from ¥3800/3250; naiW;

dKyoto Station)

K’s House is a large guesthouse with both private and dorm rooms, which are

simple but adequate. The rooftop terrace, patio and attached barrestaurant make

this a very sociable spot and a good place to meet other travellers and share

information. There’s bicycle hire, internet terminals, free wi-fi and a guest-use

kitchen. It’s a short walk from Kyoto Station.

o Hotel Anteroom

DESIGN HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルアンテルーム; %075-681-5656; https://hotel-anteroom.com; 7

Aketa-chō, Higashi-kujō, Minami-ku; s/d from ¥5000/8000; naW; bKarasuma line to Kujō)

If you’re looking for traditional Japanese decor, Anteroom is not for you. This

art-and-design hotel is as contemporary as it gets from its bright lobby gallery

with changing exhibitions and whitewashed warehouse building to its artist

concept rooms, including a dreamy Ninagawa Mika theme room. The terrace

garden rooms (from ¥12,000) are the highlight with private Zen garden and a

cypress wooden bathtub.

The breakfast spread is a real treat. It’s a five-minute walk from Kujō Station

and a 15-minute walk to Kyoto Station.

Ibis Styles Kyoto Station

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; イビススタイルズ 京都ステーション; %075-693-8444;

www.ibisstyles.com; 47 Higashikujō-Kamitonoda-chō, Minami-ku; s/d from ¥7800/10,000; naiW; dKyoto Station)

While the bright, clean rooms may be a tight squeeze, they are packed with

features at this great business hotel just outside the south entrance to Kyoto

Station. The staff and management is extremely efficient, there’s free wi-fi and

laundry rooms, and breakfast is included, making this a fantastic option for the

price.

Garnet Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-693-7600; 7-6 kitakarasuma-chō, Higashi-kujō, Minami-ku; d from ¥9000; naW; dKyoto Station)

Just a couple of blocks south of Kyoto Station, The Garnet Hotel offers a

convenient location and good-value comfortable rooms that come with nifty

gadgets, such as face steamers, leg massage boots and a smartphone. Friendly

Englishspeaking staff go out of their way to help.

o Hotel Granvia Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルグランヴィア京都; %075-344-8888; www.granviakyoto.com; Karasuma-dōri, Shiokōji-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; d from ¥35,640; naiWs; dKyoto Station)

Imagine being able to step out of bed and straight into the shinkansen (bullet

train). This is almost possible when you stay at the Hotel Granvia, which is

located directly above Kyoto Station. The rooms are clean, spacious and

elegant; some get a glimpse of the shinkansen on the tracks while others look

out directly at Kyoto Tower.

4 Downtown Kyoto

Millennials

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-212-6887; www.the-millennials-kyoto-jp.book.direct; Kawaramachi-dōri,

Shijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; capsule from ¥3200; aiW; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō or Hankyū line to

Kawaramachi)

While you don’t have to be a Millennial to stay here, it might help when it

comes to the iPod-controlled ‘rooms’ at this modern take on a capsule hotel.

Your iPod controls the lighting and bed tilt angle, while projector rooms turn

your pull-down door into a movie screen – just hook up your own device for

streaming.

There’s a cool industrial lobby/bar/lounge/co-working space, slick

communal kitchen and free beer from 5.30pm to 6.30pm every evening.

o Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ロイヤルパークホテル ザ 京都; %075-241-1111; www.rph-

the.co.jp; Sanjō-dōri, Kawaramachi higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; s/tw/d from ¥12,000/15,000/15,000; aiW; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, dKeihan line to Sanjō)

Located on Sanjō-dōri, a stone’s throw from the river, the Royal Park has a

super-convenient location, with lots of shops and restaurants within easy

walking distance. The hotel has a boutique-business feel, and rooms are larger

than most in the city. The French bakery downstairs is a perfect stop for

breakfast pastries.

Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-255-9269; www.resol-kyoto-k.com; 59-1 Daikoku-cho, Kawaramachi-dōri,

Sanjō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; d from ¥10,000; nai; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō or Hankyū line to

Kawaramachi)

Perfectly placed for shopping, dining, nightlife and transport, Hotel Resol is a

smart-looking boutique hotel offering great value. Rooms are compact

(superiors offer more space) but well designed with Japanese touches, there’s a

small lounge with free coffee machine in the lobby, plus a laundry room.

English-speaking staff are friendly and helpful.

Len Hostel Kyoto Kawaramachi

HOSTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-361-1177; https://backpackersjapan.co.jp/kyotohostel; 709-3 Uematsu-chō, Kawaramachi-dōri, Shimogyō-ku; dm/tw/d from ¥2600/7000/8800; naiW; dHankyū line to

Kawaramachi or Keihan line to Kiyomizu-Gojō)

Len has minimalist yet stylish mixed dorms, as well as a female-only dorm,

and private rooms with shared bathroom. Rooms are on the small side, but who

cares when you can hang out in the hip downstairs cafe-bar? The

Kawaramachi-dōri location is convenient for Gion and downtown.

Hotel Vista Premio Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルビスタプレミオ京都; %075-256-5888; www.hotel-vista.jp; 457 Matsugaechō, Kawaramachi-dōri, Rokkaku nishi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; s/d/tw from

¥16,000/20,000/22,000; aiW; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

Tucked into a lane between two of Kyoto’s main downtown shopping streets,

this is a smart business hotel with excellent service. There are some nice

Japanese design touches in the rooms, and the twin rooms are fairly roomy.

You can find some good deals online and, overall, it’s very good value for the

money and a super-convenient location.

Citadines Karasuma-Gojō Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; シタディーン京都 烏丸五条; %075-352-8900; www.citadines.jp; 432

Matsuyachō, Gojō-dōri, Karasuma higashi-iru, Shimogyō-ku; apt ¥15,000-45,000; aiW; bKarasuma line

to Gojō)

On Gojō-dōri, a bit south of the main downtown district but within easy

walking distance of the Karasuma subway line (as well as the Keihan line), this

serviced apartment–hotel is a great choice for those after self-catering rooms

and a bit of space. Rooms are smart and bright with fully equipped kitchens,

and there is a business centre and laundry room.

o Tawaraya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 俵屋; %075-211-5566; 278 Nakahakusan-chō, Fuyachō, Oike-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; r per person ¥42,230-73,900; naiW; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae or Karasuma-Oike)

Operating for more than three centuries, Tawaraya is one of the finest places to

stay in Japan. From the decor to the service to the food, everything is simply

the best available, and this is reflected in the price. It’s a very intimate, warm

and personal place that has seen many loyal guests over the years, from Marlon

Brando to Steve Jobs.

Rooms are kitted out in a mix of traditional Japanese-style and some mid-

century decor, and the private wooden bathtubs have stunning garden views.

It’s centrally located within an easy walk of two subway stations and plenty of

good restaurants. Book at least a few months in advance, much more if you

plan to visit during peak periods.

o Hiiragiya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 柊家; %075-221-1136; www.hiiragiya.co.jp; Nakahakusan-chō, Fuyachō, Aneyakōji-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; r per person incl 2 meals ¥34,000-90,000; naiW; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakushomae)

This elegant ryokan has long been favoured by celebrities from around the

world. Facilities and services are excellent and the location is hard to beat. Opt

for the new wing if you prefer a polished sheen; alternatively, request an older

room if you fancy some ‘old Japan’ wabi-sabi (imperfect beauty).

Room 14 played host to Japanese writer Yasunari Kawabata back in the day

and is around 200 years old. You’ll need to reserve months in advance and

reservation is preferred by email.

Ritz-Carlton Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・リッツ・カールトン京都; %075-746-5555;

www.ritzcarlton.com; 543 Hokoden-chō, Nijō-Ōhashi-hotori, Nakagyō-ku; r ¥65,000-210,000; aiWs; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, dKeihan line to Sanjō or Jingū-Marutamachi)

The Ritz-Carlton is an oasis of luxury that commands some of the best views of

any hotel in the city – it’s located on the banks of the Kamo-gawa and huge

windows in the east-facing rooms take in the whole expanse of the

Higashiyama Mountains. The rooms are superbly designed and supremely

comfortable, with plenty of Japanese touches.

Yoshikawa

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉川; %075-221-5544; www.kyoto-yoshikawa.co.jp; 135 Matsushita-chō, Tominokōji, Oike-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; s/d from ¥50,000/54,000; aiW; bTōzai or Karasuma lines to

Karasuma-Oike or Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

Located in the heart of downtown, within easy walking distance of two subway

stations and the entire dining and nightlife district, this superb ryokan has

beautiful rooms and a stunning garden. The ryokan is famous for its attached

tempura restaurant and its meals are of a high standard. All rooms have private

bathrooms with wooden tubs and toilets.

4 Southern Higashiyama

Book + Bed Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bookandbedtokyo.com/en/kyoto; 9th fl, Kamogawa Bldg, 200 Nakano-chō,

Nishi-iru, Higashiyama-ku; bed from ¥4700; naW; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

With a cracking location and a ‘novel’ idea, this hostel is a unique option for

those looking for budget accommodation in the heart of Gion. As expected,

books dominate the decor; they hang from the ceiling and capsule-style beds

nestle in among packed bookshelves. One bed comes with a river view, and

views from the common area take in the Higashiyama.

Gojō Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 五条ゲストハウス; %075-525-2299; www.gojo-guest-house.com; 3-396-2 Gojōbashi higashi, Higashiyama-ku; dm/tw/tr from ¥2000/5500/9000; aiW; dKeihan line to

Kiyomizu-Gojō)

This is a fine budget guesthouse in an old wooden Japanese house, which

makes the place feel more like a ryokan than your average guesthouse. There

are male and female dorms, as well as private rooms, and the dining area and

cafe is a good place to meet other travellers. The staff speak English and can

help with travel advice.

Kyoto Granbell Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-277-7330; www.granbellhotel.jp/kyoto; 27 Yamato-cho, Yamatooji-dori, Shigo-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; d from ¥18,000; aiW; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Tucked in a quiet part of Gion, the Granbell comes with a knockout location,

standout service and a lot of style. Snug rooms (the Japanese-style feel a bit

more spacious) seamlessly blend traditional and modern design, and come with

a smartphone. There’s a free coffee machine in the hip lobby/lounge bar, and a

lovely communal bath.

o Four Seasons

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-541-8288; www.fourseasons.com/kyoto; 445-3 Maekawa-chō, Myohoin,

Higashiyama-ku; r from ¥75,000; naWs; dKeihan line to Shichijō)

Extravagant and contemporary yet restrained and traditional, Four Seasons is

an impressive new luxury hotel in the Higashiyama sightseeing district. The

long bamboo-lined entrance brings you to a vast airy lobby with huge floor-to-

ceiling windows looking out over the 800-year-old koi-filled pond and

stunning gardens. The elegant rooms feature dark-wood floors, iPads, huge

TVs, coffee-pod machines and marble bathrooms.

o Shiraume Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 白梅; %075-561-1459; www.shiraume-kyoto.jp; Gion Shimbashi, Shirakawa hotori, Shijōnawate-agaru higashi-iru, Higashiyama-ku; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥34,000; aiW;

dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Looking out over the Shirakawa Canal in Shimbashi, a lovely street in Gion,

this ryokan offers excellent location, atmosphere and service. The decor is

traditional with a small inner garden, and all five rooms have their own private

bathroom with nice wooden bathtubs. This is a great spot to sample the

Japanese ryokan experience. Note: there is no room-only option.

o Hyatt Regency Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ハイアットリージェンシー京都; %075-541-1234;

www.kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; 644-2 Sanjūsangendō-mawari, Higashiyama-ku; r from ¥34,000; naiW; dKeihan line to Shichijō)

Arguably one of Kyoto’s best hotels, the Hyatt Regency sits at the southern end

of the Southern Higashiyama sightseeing district. Elegant and contemporary

rooms feature kimono tapestry walls and paper lanterns, and come packed with

features such as a coffee-pod machine and tablet for ordering room service.

Staff are extremely helpful, and the on-site restaurants and Tōzan Bar are

excellent.

There is a 15-minute maiko (apprentice geisha) performance from 6.15pm

each night in the lobby.

o Seikōrō

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 晴鴨楼; %075-561-1171; www.seikoro.com; 467 Nishi Tachibana-chō, 3 chōme, Toiyamachi-dōri, Gojō-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; r per person from ¥17,000; naiW; dKeihan line to

Kiyomizu-Gojō)

The Seikōrō is a classic ryokan with a grandly decorated and homey lobby. It’s

spacious, with excellent, comfortable rooms, attentive service and a fairly

convenient midtown location. Several rooms look over gardens and all have

private bathrooms featuring wooden bathtubs.

Old Kyoto

RENTAL HOUSE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-533-7775; www.oldkyoto.com; 563-12 Komatsu-chō, Higashiyama-ku; per night from ¥32,000; aW; gKyoto City bus 206 to Higashiyama-Yasui, dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

The Old Kyoto group manage three beautiful traditional Japanese houses that

stand right on the edge of Gion and make for the perfect getaway for those

seeking a more local experience. The Gion House, Amber House and Indigo

House are all kitted out stylishly in Japanese meets mid-century decor and

design, and can accommodate up to four people. Minimum stay five nights.

Step outside the door of each property and a few minutes’ walk will bring

you to Gion’s most atmospheric lanes. The houses come with everything you

need, including a phone with a local SIM.

Gion Hatanaka

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 祇園畑中; %075-541-5315; www.thehatanaka.co.jp; 505 Gion-machi, Minami-gawa, Higashiyama-ku; r per person from ¥22,000; nW; gKyoto City bus 206 to Higashiyama-Yasui)

Gion Hatanaka is a fine ryokan right in the heart of the Southern Higashiyama

sightseeing district, less than a minute’s walk from Yasaka-jinja. Despite being

fairly large, this 21-room place manages to retain an intimate and private

feeling. In addition to bathtubs in each room, there is a huge wooden

communal bath. The rooms are clean, well designed and relaxing.

It also offers regularly scheduled geisha entertainment that nonguests are

welcome to join. Note: there is a midnight curfew but guests can enter later if

prearranged.

Motonago

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館元奈古; %075-561-2087; www.motonago.com; 511 Washio-chō, Kōdaiji-michi, Higashiyama-ku; r per person from ¥12,000; niW; gKyoto City bus 206 to Gion)

This ryokan may have the best location of any in the city and it hits all the right

notes for one in this class: classic Japanese decor, friendly Englishspeaking

staff, nice wooden communal bathtubs and a few small Japanese gardens.

There are 12 rooms; some have private bathroom, and one room has twin

Western beds for those not comfortable on a futon.

4 Northern Higashiyama

Roku Roku

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ろくろく; %075-771-6969; www.rokuroku.kyoto.jp; 28-1 Nishiteranomae-

chō, Shishigatani, Sakyō-ku; dm/tw per person ¥2500/4300; naW; gKyoto City bus 5 to Shinnyodo-mae

or 17 to Kinrinshako-mae)

A great choice for budget digs, this modern hostel is within walking distance of

the Path of Philosophy and many main temples. Dorms are a little cramped but

have in-room bathrooms, while twin rooms come with a small tatami-mat

sitting area. It has free laundry facilities and bicycle rental, plus a traditional

house nearby with a lounge and garden views to relax in.

o Westin Miyako Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ウェスティン都ホテル京都; %075-771-7111;

www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/westinkyoto; Keage, Sanjō-dōri, Higashiyama-ku; d from ¥22,500; naiWs; bTōzai line to Keage, exit 2)

Overlooking the Higashiyama sightseeing district (meaning it’s one of the best

locations for sightseeing in Kyoto), this grande dame of Kyoto hotels occupies

a commanding position. Rooms on the north side have great views over the city

to the Kitayama mountains. There is a fitness centre with a swimming pool

(extra charge), as well as a private garden and walking trail.

The hotel even has its own ryokan section (rooms from ¥25,000) for those

who want to try staying in a ryokan without giving up the convenience of a

hotel. Rooms are undergoing refurbishment to be finished in 2020.

Koto Inn

RENTAL HOUSE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 古都イン; koto.inn@gmail.com; 373 Horiike-chō, Higashiyama-ku; per night for 2/3/4 people US$215/255/285; naW; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Conveniently located near the Higashiyama sightseeing district in a lovely

canal setting, this immaculate vacation rental is good for families, couples and

groups who want a bit of privacy. It’s got everything you need and is decorated

with lovely Japanese antiques. While the building is traditionally Japanese, all

the facilities are fully modernised. There’s a two-night minimum stay.

Kyoto Garden Ryokan Yachiyo

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館八千代; %075-771-4148; www.ryokan-yachiyo.com; 34 Fukuchi-chō,

Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; r per person ¥10,000-50,000; naW; bTōzai line to Keage)

Located just down the street from Nanzen-ji, this beautiful ryokan has a choice

of traditional or modern rooms, all with private bathroom and TV. Some rooms

look out over private gardens and four rooms come with an open-air wooden

bath. English-speaking staff are available.

WORTH A TRIP

HOZU-GAWA RIVER TRIP

The Hozu-gawa river trip (%0771-22-5846; www.hozugawakudari.jp; Hozu-chō, Kameoka-shi; adult/child 4-12yr ¥4100/2700; dJR Sagano/San-in line from Kyoto Station to Kameoka) is a great

way to enjoy the beauty of Kyoto’s western mountains without any strain on the legs. With long

bamboo poles, boatmen steer flat-bottom boats down the Hozu-gawa from Kameoka, 30km west of

Kyoto Station, through steep, forested mountain canyons, before arriving at Arashiyama.

Between 10 March and 30 November there are seven trips daily leaving on the hour from 9am to

2pm, with the last trip at 3.30pm. During winter the number of trips is reduced to four per day

(10am, 11.30am, 1pm and 2.30pm) and the boats are heated.

The ride lasts two hours and covers 16km through occasional sections of choppy water – a

scenic jaunt with minimal danger. The scenery is especially breathtaking during cherry-blossom

season in April and maple-foliage season in autumn.

The boats depart from a dock that is eight minutes’ walk from Kameoka Station. Kameoka is

accessible by rail from Kyoto Station or Nijō Station on the JR Sagano (San-in) line. The Kyoto

Tourist Information Center provides an English-language leaflet and timetable for rail connections.

The fare from Kyoto to Kameoka is ¥410 one way by regular train (don’t spend the extra for the

express; it makes little difference in travel time).

4 Imperial Palace & Around

Bird Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-744-1875; www.birdhostel.com; 190 Joshinyo-chō, Marutamachi-dōri,

Nagakyō-ku; dm/d/f incl breakfast from ¥2900/6800/16,000; naW; bKarasuma line to Marutamachi)

This cool, spotless and well-run hostel is just a short hop from the Imperial

Palace Park and comes with a range of dorms, including a female-only option.

Dorms are equipped with everything you need, there are a few compact double

rooms and a family room with leafy views. It’s rounded out with bicycle rental,

a hip cafe-lounge area and laundry facilities.

Noku Kyoto

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ノク京都; %075-211-0222; www.nokuroxy.com; 205-1 Okura-cho, Karasuma-dōri, Maratumachi-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; r ¥18,000-38,000; naW; bKarasuma line to

Marutamachi)

Noku (also known as Noku Roxy) is a stylish boutique hotel set over six floors

within sight of the Imperial Palace Park and located next to Marutamachi

Station. The minimalist elegant rooms are all blonde wood with splashes of

colour provided in the bedhead artwork. Some rooms have park views, and

there is a basement bar and restaurant.

Palace Side Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・パレスサイドホテル; %075-415-8887;

www.palacesidehotel.co.jp; Okakuen-chō, Karasuma-dōri, Shimotachiuri-agaru, Kamigyō-ku; s/d from

¥6300/10,200; naiW; bKarasuma line to Marutamachi)

Overlooking the Imperial Palace Park, this good-value hotel is looking a little

dated but has a lot going for it, starting with friendly English-speaking staff,

great service, washing machines, an on-site restaurant and a communal guest-

use kitchen. Free one-hour Japanese lessons are held in the evenings a couple

of times a month.

4 Northwest Kyoto

Shunkō-in

TEMPLE LODGE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 春光院; %075-462-5488; www.shunkoin.com; 42 Myōshinji-chō, Hanazono,

Ukyō-ku; s ¥8800, d/tr per person ¥7500/6000; niW; dJR Sagano/San-in line to Hanazono)

This is a shukubō (temple lodging) at a subtemple in Myōshin-ji. It’s very

comfortable, with wi-fi and free bicycle hire, and the main priest here speaks

fluent English. For an extra ¥1500 you can try Zen meditation and go on a

guided tour of the temple. Being in the temple at night is a very special

experience.

o Mosaic Machiya Hostel

HOSTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-466-0510; www.mosaichostel.jp/mosaic-machiya-kamishichiken; 702

Shinsei-chō, Kamigyō-ku; tw/tr from ¥8000/15,000; naW; gKyoto bus 50 to Kamishichiken)

As the name suggests, this intimate hostel is set in a restored machiya

(traditional Japanese townhouse) on an atmospheric street in the old geisha

district of Kamishichiken near Kitano Tenman-gū. It offers five simple

Japanese-style rooms and there’s a lovely private bath and courtyard garden.

Mingle with the friendly staff and other travellers in the small lobby bar.

It has another hostel close to Kyoto Station.

4 Arashiyama & Sagano

o Japaning Hotel Liv Ranrokaku Kyoto

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジャパニングホテル リヴ 嵐楼閣; 54-2 Arashiyama Nakaoshita-chō, Nishikyō-ku; r ¥16,000-30,000; naW; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-

Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at

Katsura)

It’s not easy to find accommodation with a great location and spacious rooms

for anything less than top-dollar in Arashiyama, so thankfully there is this

hotel. Some rooms have separate tatami mat areas and the riverside rooms have

sensational views. The on-site baths are perfect after a day on your feet.

Not much English is spoken but friendly staff go out of their way to help.

o Hoshinoya Kyoto

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 星のや京都; %075-871-0001; www.hoshinoya.com/kyoto/en; 11-2

Arashiyama Genrokuzan-chō, Nishikyō-ku; r per person from ¥81,000; naW; gKyoto City bus 28 from

Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line

to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

Sitting in a secluded area on the south bank of the Hozu-gawa in Arashiyama

(upstream from the main sightseeing district), this modern take on the classic

Japanese inn is quickly becoming a favourite of well-heeled visitors to Kyoto

in search of privacy and a unique experience. Rooms feature incredible views

of the river and the surrounding mountains.

The best part is the approach: you’ll be chauffeured by a private boat from a

dock near Togetsu-kyō bridge to the inn (note that on days following heavy

rains, you’ll have to go by car instead). This is easily one of the most unique

places to stay in Kyoto. If you tire of just relaxing with the views, it also offers

meditation classes as well as incense ceremonies.

Arashiyama Benkei

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 嵐山辨慶旅館; %075-872-3355; www.benkei.biz; 34 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; r per person incl meals from ¥28,000; aW; gKyoto City Bus 28 from Kyoto

Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to

Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

This elegant ryokan, with kind and friendly service, has a pleasant riverside

location and serves wonderful kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine). It has three

riverside rooms; one comes with a private bathroom, while other rooms have

calming garden views. The open-air onsen is perfect for soaking in after

walking around Arashiyama’s temples.

5 Eating

5 Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

There are lots of choices on the 10th floor of Kyoto Station. Try Kyoto Rāmen

Kōji ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 京都拉麺小路; %075-361-4401; www.kyoto-ramen-koji.com; 10F

Kyoto Station Bldg, Karasuma-dōri, Shiokōji-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; ramen ¥840-1250; h11am-10pm;

dKyoto Station), a collection of nine ramen restaurants. Buy tickets from the

machines (in English, with pictures) before queuing.

Eat Paradise ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; イートパラダイス) has more choices, including Tonkatsu Wako for tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet),

Tenichi for sublime tempura, and Wakuden for approachable kaiseki

(Japanese haute cuisine).

Take the west escalators from the main concourse to get here – Eat Paradise

is in front of you when you get to the 10th floor. Alternatively, take the north

elevator in the JR Isetan department store to the 11th floor. Note that the

restaurants here can be crowded, especially at lunchtimes on weekends.

There are plenty more eateries scattered all around Kyoto Station.

o Vegans Cafe & Restaurant

VEGAN, JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-643-3922; www.veganscafe.com; 4-88 Nishiura-chō, Fukakusa, Fushimi-ku; meals ¥540-2500; h11.30am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Sat; Wv; dKeihan line to Fujinomori) F

Who needs meat and dairy when food can taste this good without it? This light-

filled cafe is a haven for vegans and vegetarians with a range of meals from

healthy salad, rice and miso sets, to huge bowls of soy-milk miso ramen and

deep-fried tofu pizza. There’s organic beer, wine and coffee, too. It’s a

convenient detour when sightseeing around Fushimi-Inari.

KYOTO CUISINE

Many of Kyoto’s restaurants focus on local specialities, known as kyō-ryōri (Kyoto cuisine). In this

style of cooking, the preparation of dishes makes ingenious use of fresh seasonal vegetables and

emphasises subtle flavours, revealing the natural taste of the ingredients. Kyō-ryōri is selected

according to the mood and hues of the ever-changing seasons, and the presentation and atmosphere

in which it’s enjoyed are as important as the flavour.

Different types of kyō-ryōri include kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine), obanzai-ryōri (Kyoto

home-style cooking) and shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) . Kyoto is famed for its tofu, a

result of the city’s excellent water and large population of (theoretically) vegetarian Buddhist

monks. Two dishes to look for: yudōfu (tofu cooked in a pot; especially good in winter) and yuba

(the skin that forms when making tofu, and considered a delicacy).

Kyo-gashi is Kyoto’s brand of wagashi (Japanese sweets).

5 Downtown Kyoto

Finding a good place to eat in Downtown Kyoto can be confusing (there are

almost too many places to choose from). If you want a lot of choice in a small

area, hit one of the resutoran-gai (restaurant floors) at Takashimaya or

Daimaru.

o Honke Owariya

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本家尾張屋; %075-231-3446; www.honke-owariya.co.jp; 322 Kurumaya-

chō, Nijō, Nakagyō-ku; dishes from ¥810; h11am-7pm; bKarasuma or Tōzai lines to Karasuma-Oike)

Set in an old sweets shop in a traditional Japanese building on a quiet

downtown street, this is where locals come for excellent soba (buckwheat-

noodle) dishes. The highly recommended house speciality, hourai soba

(¥2160), comes with a stack of five small plates of soba with a selection of

toppings, including shiitake mushrooms, shrimp tempura, thin slices of

omelette and sesame seeds.

o Café Bibliotec Hello!

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カフェビブリオティックハロー！; %075-231-8625; 650 Seimei-chō, Nijō-dōri, Yanaginobanba higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; meals from ¥850; h11.30am-midnight; W;

bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

As the name suggests, books line the walls of this cool cafe located in a

converted machiya attracting a mix of locals and tourists. It’s a great place to

relax with a book or to tap away at your laptop over a coffee (¥450) or light

lunch. Look for the huge banana plants out the front.

There’s a great little bakery attached where you can grab tasty takeaway

pastries and breads (Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am to 11pm).

Saryo Suisen

SWEETS, CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 茶寮翠泉; %075-278-0111; 521 Takatsuji-chō, Shimogyō-ku; matcha parfait

¥1480; h10.30am-6pm; bKarasuma line to Shijō)

There are countless places in Kyoto to be restrained with your matcha and

sweets…this teahouse isn’t one of them. Roll up your sleeves, loosen your belt

and get ready for a sugar high – it’s all about the matcha parfaits here, piled as

high as Kyoto Tower with sponge cake, matcha ice cream, sweet red-bean

paste, dango (soft rice-flour balls) and more.

Gyoza Chao Chao Sanjo-Kiyamachi

DUMPLINGS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-251-0056; Kiyamachi-dōri, Sanjō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; 3 pieces from

¥300; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

In the heart of Kyoto’s bar scene, it’s no wonder Chao Chao draws long queues

for its crispy gyōza (dumplings) – great as a pre-drink dinner, even better as a

late-night drunken snack. Grab a counter seat or squish beside a table and try to

stop chao chao chowing down plates of shrimp, boiled ginger, garlic kimchi or

pork gyōza. Cash only.

Vegetarians will want to head to their other branch ( MAP ; %075-353-2626; 312-1

Junpu-chō, Shijō-dōri, Kawaramachi higashi-iru, Shimogyo-ku; 3 pieces from ¥300; h11.30am-3pm & 5-

11pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; v; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi) at Shijo-

Kawaramachi for meat-free options.

Biotei

VEGETARIAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; びお亭; %075-255-0086; 2nd fl, M&I Bldg, 28 Umetada-chō, Sanjō-dōri, Higashinotōin nishi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner sets from ¥890/1385; h11.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm

Tue, 11.30am-2pm Wed & Fri, Thu, 5-8.30pm Sat; v; bTōzai or Karasuma lines to Karasuma-Oike)

Located diagonally across from Nakagyō post office, this is a favourite of

Kyoto vegetarians, serving à la carte and daily sets with dishes such as deep-

fried crumbed tofu and black seaweed salad with rice, miso and pickles. The

seating is rather cramped but the food is excellent, beautifully presented and

carefully made from quality ingredients.

It’s on the corner. Go up the metal spiral staircase.

Ippūdō

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一風堂; %075-213-8800; Higashinotō-in, Nishikikōji higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; ramen from ¥790; h11am-3am, to 2am Sun; bKarasuma line to Shijō)

There’s a reason that there’s usually a line outside this place: the ramen is

fantastic and the bite-sized gyōza are to die for. The gyōza set meal (from

¥1440) is great value. While it’s not on the menu, you can request a vegetarian

option.

Sushi no Musashi

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 寿しのむさし; %075-222-0634; www.sushinomusashi.com; Kawaramachi-

dōri, Sanjō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; plates from ¥146; h11am-10pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae,

dKeihan line to Sanjō)

If you’ve never tried a kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant), don’t miss

this place – most dishes are a mere ¥146. Not the best sushi in the world, but

it’s cheap, reliable and fun. It’s also easy to eat here: you just grab what you

want off the conveyor belt. If you don’t see what you want, there’s an English

menu to order from.

Musashi is just outside the entrance to the Sanjō covered arcade; look for the

miniature sushi conveyor belt in the window.

o Giro Giro Hitoshina

KAISEKI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-343-7070; 420-7 Nanba-chō, Nishi-kiyamachi-dōri, Matsubara-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; kaiseki ¥4100; h5.30pm-midnight; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi or Keihan line to

Kiyomizu-Gojō)

Giro Giro takes traditional kaiseki and strips any formality so you’re left with

great food but in a boisterous atmosphere and with thousands more yen in your

pocket. In a quiet lane near Kiyamachi-dōri, things liven up inside with patrons

sitting at the counter around the open kitchen chatting with chefs preparing

inventive dishes.

The seasonal menu consists of eight courses. There are upstairs tables, too,

but if you want a counter seat, book well in advance; for a Friday or Saturday

night you’ll need to allow a couple of months in advance. Cash only.

o Menami

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; めなみ; %075-231-1095; www.menami.jp; Kiyamachi-dōri, Sanjō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; dishes ¥400-1600; h5-11pm Mon-Sat; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, dKeihan

line to Sanjō)

This welcoming neighbourhood favourite specialises in obanzai-ryōri – a type

of home-style cooking using seasonal ingredients – done creatively and served

as tapas-size plates. Don’t miss the delicious spring rolls wrapped with yuba

(tofu skin; 生ゆば春巻). Try to book a counter seat where you can eye off

bowls filled with dishes to choose from while watching the chefs in action.

Otherwise, start with the obanzai taster plate (¥1200) and go from there.

Book ahead.

Kyōgoku Kane-yo

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京極かねよ; %075-221-0669; 456 Matsugaechō, Rokkaku, Shinkyōgoku higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; eel over rice from ¥2500; h11.30am-9pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakushomae)

This popular restaurant is a good place to try unagi (eel). You can choose to

either sit downstairs with a nice view of the waterfall, or upstairs on the tatami.

Look for the wooden facade.

Tagoto Honten

KAISEKI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 田ごと本店; %075-221-1811; www.kyoto-tagoto.co.jp; 34 Otabi-chō, Shijō-

dōri, Kawaramachi nishi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1850/6000; h11.30am-3pm & 4.30-9pm;

dKeihan line to Shijō or Hankyū line to Kawaramachi)

Across from Takashimaya department store, this long-standing Kyoto

restaurant serves approachable kaiseki in a variety of rooms, both private and

common. Its lunchtime kiku set (¥1850) includes some sashimi, tempura and a

variety of other nibblies. You must reserve in advance for the evening kaiseki.

Otherwise try the cheaper mini kaiseki lunch (¥3700).

Ganko

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; がんこ; %075-255-1128; www.gankofood.co.jp; 101 Nakajima-chō, Sanjō-

dōri, Kawaramachi higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; meals ¥645-4320; h11am-11pm; W; bTōzai line to Kyoto-

Shiyakusho-mae or Sanjō Keihan, dKeihan line to Sanjō)

This giant four-storey dining hall is part of Kansai’s biggest sushi chain. The

ground floor is the sushi area, with a long sushi counter and plenty of tables.

It’s very popular with both tourists and locals. There’s an extensive

English/picture menu and good-value set meals. It may have the most plastic-

looking food models of any restaurant window in Kyoto. Near Sanjō-Ōhashi

bridge.

o Roan Kikunoi

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 露庵菊乃井; %075-361-5580; www.kikunoi.jp; 118 Saito-chō, Kiyamachi-dōri, Shijō-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥7000/13,000; h11.30am-1.30pm & 5-8.30pm Thu-

Tue; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi or Keihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Roan Kikunoi is a fantastic place to experience the wonders of kaiseki. It’s a

lovely intimate space located right downtown. The chef takes an experimental

and creative approach and the results are a wonder for the eyes and palate.

Highly recommended. Reserve through your hotel or ryokan or at least a few

days in advance.

o Yoshikawa

TEMPURA

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉川; %075-221-5544; www.kyotoyoshikawa.co.jp; 135 Matsushita-chō,

Tominokōji, Oike-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; lunch ¥3000-25,000, dinner ¥8000-25,000; h11am-1.45pm & 5-

8pm; bTōzai line to Karasuma-Oike or Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

This is the place to go for delectable tempura with a daily changing menu.

Attached to the Yoshikawa ryokan, it offers table seating, but it’s much more

interesting to sit and eat around the small intimate counter and observe the

chefs at work. Reservation is required for the private tatami room, and counter

bar for dinner. Note: counter bar is closed Sunday.

Kiyamachi Sakuragawa

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 木屋町 櫻川; %075-255-4477; Kiyamachi-dōri, Nijō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner sets from ¥7000/16,000; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

This elegant restaurant on a scenic stretch of Kiyamachi-dōri is an excellent

place to try kaiseki. The modest but fully satisfying food is beautifully

presented and it’s a joy to watch the chef in action. The warmth of the

reception adds to the quality of the food. Reservations are recommended and

smart casual is the way to go here.

Mishima-tei

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三嶋亭; %075-221-0003; 405 Sakurano-chō, Teramachi-dōri, Sanjō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; sukiyaki lunch/dinner from ¥7720/14,850; h11.30am-10.30pm Thu-Tue; bTōzai line to

Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

Mishima-tei, around since 1873, is a good place to sample sukiyaki (thin slices

of beef cooked in sake, soy and vinegar broth, and dipped in raw egg) as the

quality of the meat is very high, which is hardly surprising when there is a

butcher downstairs. It’s at the intersection of the Sanjō and Teramachi covered

arcades.

DON’T MISS

TEA & SWEETS

Kyo-gashi is Kyoto’s brand of wagashi (Japanese sweets), which have a long association with the

tea ceremony. The sweets are served alongside matcha to temper the bitterness of the tea. Two

famous places to try tea and kyo-gashi are Kagizen Yoshifusa in Gion or and Toraya Karyō Kyoto

Ichijō near the Imperial Palace Park.

5 Southern Higashiyama

Offerings here fall into two categories: tourist eateries near the temples and

refined places in Gion.

o Omen Kodai-ji

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おめん 高台寺店; %075-541-5007; 362 Masuya-chō, Kōdaiji-dōri, Shimokawara higashi-iru, Higashiyama-ku; noodles from ¥1150; h11am-9pm; gKyoto City bus 206 to

Higashiyama-Yasui)

Housed in a remodelled Japanese building with an airy feeling, this branch of

Kyoto’s famed Omen noodle chain is the best place to stop while exploring the

Southern Higashiyama district. Upstairs has fine views over the area. The

signature udon (thick, white wheat noodles) served in broth with a selection of

fresh vegetables is delicious.

o Kagizen Yoshifusa

TEAHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鍵善良房; %075-561-1818; www.kagizen.co.jp; 264 Gion machi, Kita-gawa, Higashiyama-ku; kuzukiri ¥1080, tea & sweet ¥880; h9.30am-6pm, closed Mon; dHankyū line to

Kawaramachi, Keihan line to Gion-Shijō)

This Gion institution is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best-known okashi-ya (sweet

shops). It sells a variety of traditional sweets and has a lovely tearoom out the

back where you can sample cold kuzukiri (transparent arrowroot noodles)

served with a kuro-mitsu (sweet black sugar) dipping sauce, or just a nice cup

of matcha and a sweet.

Chidoritei

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 千登利亭; %075-561-1907; 203 Rokken-cho, Donguri-dori, Yamato-oji Nishi-iru, Higashiyama-ku; sushi sets ¥600-2200; h11am-8pm, closed Thu; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Family owned Chidoritei is a snug little sushi restaurant tucked away in the

backstreets of Gion away from the bustle. It’s a great place to try delicious

traditional Kyoto saba-zushi – mackerel hand pressed into lightly vinegared

rice and wrapped in konbu (a type of seaweed). In summer, the speciality here

is conger-eel sushi.

Gion Yuki

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 遊亀祇園店; %075-525-2666; 111-1 Tominaga-chō, Higashiyama-ku; dishes

¥380-800; h5-10pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat; gKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Squeeze in at the counter for front-row seats to watch the chefs do their thing at

this lively izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery). Seafood is big on the menu, from

sashimi plates and grilled fish to tasty tempura, and sake is the drink of choice

– no surprise considering the owner is a sake brewer. Look for the short

hanging red curtains.

Kasagi-ya

TEAHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かさぎ屋; %075-561-9562; 349 Masuya-chō, Kōdai-ji, Higashiyama-ku; tea

& sweet from ¥650; h11am-6pm, closed Tue; gKyoto City bus 206 to Higashiyama-Yasui)

At Kasagi-ya, on Sannen-zaka near Kiyomizu-dera, you can enjoy a nice cup

of matcha and a variety of sweets. This old wooden shop has atmosphere to

boot and friendly staff – which makes it worth the wait if there’s a queue. It’s

hard to spot; it’s a few doors up from Starbucks up the stairs on the same side.

Bamboo

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 晩boo; %075-771-5559; Minami gawa, 1st fl, Higashiyama-Sanjō higashi-iru, Higashiyama-ku; dishes from ¥500; h5.30pm-midnight; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Bamboo is one of Kyoto’s more approachable izakaya. It’s on Sanjō-dōri, near

the mouth of a traditional, old shopping arcade. You can sit at the counter here

and order a variety of typical dishes, watching the chefs do their thing.

o Kikunoi

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 菊乃井; %075-561-0015; www.kikunoi.jp; 459 Shimokawara-chō,

Yasakatoriimaesagaru, Shimokawara-dōri, Higashiyama-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥10,000/16,000; hnoon-

1pm & 5-8pm; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Michelin-starred chef Mutara serves some of the finest kaiseki in the city.

Located in a hidden nook near Maruyama-kōen, this restaurant has everything

necessary for the full over-the-top kaiseki experience, from setting to service to

exquisitely executed cuisine, often with a creative twist. Reserve through your

hotel at least a month in advance.

Gion Karyō

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 祇園迦陵; %075-532-0025; 570-235 Gion-machi, Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; lunch/dinner courses from ¥5800/11,600; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6-10.30pm, closed Wed;

dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Take an old Kyoto house, make it comfortable for modern diners, serve

excellent, reasonably priced kaiseki and you have Karyō’s recipe for success.

The chef and servers are welcoming and an English menu makes ordering a

snap. There are counter seats where you can watch the chef working and rooms

with hori-kotatsu (sunken floors) for groups.

5 Northern Higashiyama

o Goya

OKINAWAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゴーヤ; %075-752-1158; www.goyaasia.com; 114-6 Nishida-chō, Jōdo-ji, Sakyō-ku; dishes from ¥680; h11.30am-4pm & 5pm-midnight, closed Wed; v; gKyoto City bus 5 to

Ginkakujimichi)

This Okinawan-style restaurant has tasty food (with plenty of vegetarian

options), a plant-filled stylish interior and comfortable upstairs seating. It’s

perfect for lunch while exploring Northern Higashiyama and just a short walk

from Ginkaku-ji. Choose from simple dishes, such as taco rice and gōya

champurū (bitter melon stir-fry), or try the delicious nasi champurū – a plate of

daily changing dishes.

o Omen

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おめん; %075-771-8994; www.omen.co.jp; 74 Jōdo-ji Ishibashi-chō, Sakyō-ku; noodles from ¥1150; h11am-9pm; gKyoto City bus 5 to Ginkakuji-michi)

This elegant noodle shop, a five-minute walk from Ginkaku-ji, is named after

the signature dish – thick white noodles that are served in broth with a selection

of seven fresh vegetables. Choose from hot or cold noodles, and you’ll be

given a bowl of soup to dip them in and a plate of vegetables (put these into the

soup along with the sesame seeds).

There’s also an extensive à la carte menu. You can get a tasty salad here and

brilliant tori sansho yaki (chicken cooked with Japanese mountain spice). Look

for the traditional Japanese house with a lantern outside.

Usagi no Ippo

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 卯サギの一歩; %075-201-6497; 91-23 Okazaki Enshōji-chō, Sakyō-ku; meals from ¥1400; h11am-5pm, closed Wed; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Perfectly located for a break when museum-hopping in the Okazaki-kōen area,

this delightful restaurant is set in an old machiya with tatami-mat floors, a

small pleasant garden and a cute rabbit theme. The delicious obanzai (home-

style cooking) sets are great value and might include tasty dishes such as

chicken tenderloin wrapped in shiso (Japanese basil). Group bookings only

after 5pm.

Sujata

VEGETARIAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スジャータ; %075-721-0789; www.sujata-cafe.com; 96-2 Tanaka Monzen-chō, Sakyō-ku; meals from ¥850; hnoon-4pm & 5-7.30pm Mon & Thu-Sat, closes 6pm Sun; v; gKyoto

City bus 206 to Hyakumanben) F

Opposite Kyoto University, this humble cafe is a godsend for vegetarians. The

menu is limited but the food is fresh, tasty, mostly organic and nutritious,

including Indian curries or a Japanese set. There’s a few counter seats and

tables downstairs and tatami-mat seating upstairs. Sip on authentic homemade

chai and relax to the soothing background music. Ask about the free meditation

classes.

Falafel Garden

ISRAELI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ファラフェルガーデン; %075-712-1856; www.falafelgarden.com; 15-2

Kamiyanagi-chō, Tanaka, Sakyō-ku; falafel from ¥450; h11am-10pm; v; dKeihan line to

Demachiyanagi)

If you’re in need of a break from Japanese food, head to this casual spot near

Demachiyanagi Station for excellent and filling felafel pita sandwiches or

plates with generous dollops of homemade hummus, or a side of green chilli

sauce for more of a kick. There’s a small garden courtyard for sunny days.

Au Temps Perdu

FRENCH

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; オ・タン・ペルデュ; %075-762-1299; 64 Enshōji-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; tea & cake set from ¥1100; h11am-8.30pm Tue-Sun; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Overlooking the Shirakawa Canal, just across the street from the National

Museum of Modern Art, this tiny French-style cafe is a lovely spot to take a

break when sightseeing in the area. Check out the delicious cakes on display

and pair them with a pot of tea, or spring for a light lunch along the lines of

quiche and salad.

Hinode Udon

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日の出うどん; %075-751-9251; 36 Kitanobō-chō, Nanzenji, Sakyō-ku; noodles from ¥750; h11am-3pm Tue-Sat; gKyoto City bus 5 to Eikandō-michi)

Filling noodle and rice dishes are served at this pleasant shop with an English

menu – the nabeyaki udon (pot-baked udon in broth) is a great choice. This is a

good lunch spot when temple-hopping in the Northern Higashiyama area. It’s

popular so you’ll probably have to queue. Cash only.

Hyōtei

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 瓢亭; %075-771-4116; www.hyotei.co.jp/en; 35 Kusagawa-chō, Nanzen-ji,

Sakyō-ku; kaiseki lunch/dinner from ¥23,000/27,000; h11am-7.30pm; bTōzai line to Keage)

The Hyōtei is considered one of Kyoto’s oldest and most picturesque

traditional restaurants. In the main building you can sample exquisite kaiseki

courses in private tearooms; book months ahead for weekend evenings. If you

wish to sample the cuisine on a tighter budget, the annexe building offers

shōkadō bentō box lunches (¥5400; noon to 4pm Friday to Wednesday).

Closed second and fourth Tuesday of each month.

KYOTO’S TRADITIONAL MACHIYA

Machiya are wooden row houses that functioned as both homes and workplaces for Japan’s

bourgeoisie, a class that grew in prominence during the Edo period. The shop area was located in

the front of the house, while the rooms lined up behind it formed the family’s private living

quarters. This elongated shape, which came about because homes were once taxed according to the

size of their street frontage, earned machiya the nickname ‘unagi no nedoko’ (eel bedrooms). The

affluent among Kyoto’s merchants adopted design elements from sukiya-zukuri (a type of

residential architectural style), such as delicate latticework. Even with space at a minimum, many

machiya have small courtyard gardens, called tsubo-niwa – one tsubo being the standard size of

two tatami mats.

Although well suited to Kyoto’s humid, mildew-prone summers, a wooden machiya has a

limited lifespan of about 50 years. In the decades after WWII, many families chose not to rebuild

them and instead put up multistorey concrete buildings. In many ways this made sense: modern

buildings were simpler to maintain and could easily be fitted out with the latest mod-cons, like air-

conditioning; they were cheaper to build, as the cost of traditional materials and workmanship was

rising; and the hardship of Japan’s steep inheritance tax could be offset by income generated by

rental units. The pendulum swung back around in the 1990s, when it became clear that the city was

losing something dear. Since then there have been numerous efforts to restore old machiya; many

of them now house restaurants, cafes and boutiques. Judith Clancy’s Kyoto Machiya Restaurant

Guide has over 100 suggestions, and Diane Durston’s Old Kyoto features traditional cafes, shops

and restaurants, many of which are housed in machiya.

5 Imperial Palace & Around

o Kanei

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かね井; %075-441-8283; 11-1 Murasakino Higashifujinomori-chō, Kita-ku; noodles from ¥950; h11.30am-2.30pm, closed Mon; gKyoto City bus 206 to Daitoku-ji-mae)

A small traditional place not far from Funaoka Onsen, Kanei is for soba

connoisseurs – the noodles are made by hand and are delicious. The owners

don’t speak much English, so here’s what to order: zaru soba (cold soba; ¥950)

or kake soba (soba in a broth; ¥1000). Prepare to queue and note that noodles

often sell out early.

o Kazariya

SWEETS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かざりや; %075-491-9402; Murasakino Imamiya-chō, Kita-ku; sweets ¥500; h10am-5pm, closed Wed; gKyoto City bus 46 to Imamiyajinja)

There are two restaurants at the eastern entrance to Imamiya-jinja specialising

in aburi-mochi (grilled rice cakes coated with soybean flour) served with miso-

dare (sweet-bean paste). Kazariya is on the left side when facing the shrine

gate. For over 300 years it has been serving plates of the skewered treats with a

pot of tea to enjoy in its traditional teahouse.

o Papa Jon’s

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; パパジョンズカフェ 本店; %075-415-2655; 642-4 Shokokuji-chō, Karasuma-dōri, Kamidachiuri higashi-iru, Kamigyō-ku; lunch from ¥850; h10am-9pm; W; bKarasuma

line to Imadegawa)

A short walk from the north border of the Imperial Palace Park, this light-filled

cafe serves brilliant New York cheesecake (¥550) and hot drinks. Other menu

items include breakfast sets, homemade quiche, soup and tasty salads, as well

as gluten-free cakes.

Sarasa Nishijin

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さらさ西陣; %075-432-5075; 11-1 Murasakino Higashifujinomori-chō, Kita-ku; lunch from ¥840; hnoon-11pm, closed irregularly; W; gKyoto City bus 206 to Daitoku-ji-mae)

This is one of Kyoto’s most interesting cafes – it’s built inside an old sentō

(public bathhouse) and the original tiles have been preserved. Light meals and

coffee are the staples here. Service can be slow, but it’s worth a stop for the

ambience. Lines out the door are not uncommon. It’s near Funaoka Onsen.

o Toraya Karyō Kyoto Ichijō

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 虎屋菓寮 京都一条店; %075-441-3113; 400 Hirohashidono-chō, Ichijō-dōri, Karasuma-nishi-iru, Kamigyō-ku; tea & sweet from ¥1296; h10am-6pm; bKarasuma line to

Imadegawa)

This gorgeous tearoom-cafe is a stone’s throw from the west side of the

Imperial Palace Park. It’s fantastic for a break from sightseeing in this part of

town. The menu has some pictures and simple English. You can enjoy a nice

cup of matcha and its signature yokan (jelly sweet).

5 Northwest Kyoto

Gontaro

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 権太呂; %075-463-1039; www.gontaro.co.jp; 26 Hirano Miyaziki-chō, Kita-ku; meals from ¥850; h11am-9.30pm, closed Wed; gKyoto City bus 205 or 12 to Kinkakuji-michi)

This is a great choice for a spot of lunch when visiting Kinkaku-ji and the

temples in the area. The setting is traditional and relaxed and it serves filling

noodle meals, such as the tempura prawn and soba noodle set or the popular

kitsune udon (udon with fried tofu).

5 Arashiyama & Sagano

There are a bunch of great dining spots here. The majority of the area’s

restaurants are on the main street near the Keifuku Randen Arashiyama Station,

as well as some stand-out spots along the Hozu-gawa between the main street

and the start of Kameyama-kōen.

Arashiyama Yoshimura

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 嵐山よしむら; %075-863-5700; Togetsu-kyō kita, Saga-Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; soba from ¥1000, sets from ¥1278; h11am-5pm; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to

Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama,

change at Katsura)

For a tasty bowl of soba noodles and a million-dollar view over the

Arashiyama mountains and the Togetsu-kyō bridge, head to this extremely

popular eatery (prepare to queue at peak times) just north of the famous bridge,

overlooking the Katsuragawa. There’s an English menu but no English sign;

look for the big glass windows and the stone wall.

Komichi

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; こみち; %075-872-5313; 23 Ōjōin-chō, Nison-in Monzen, Saga, Ukyō-ku; tea

& sweet ¥650; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-

mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

This friendly little teahouse is perfectly located along the Arashiyama tourist

trail. In addition to hot and cold tea and coffee, it serves uji kintoki (shaved ice

with sweetened green tea) in summer and a variety of noodle dishes year-

round. The picture menu helps with ordering.

o Shigetsu

VEGETARIAN, JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 篩月; %075-882-9725; 68 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga-Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; lunch sets ¥3500, ¥5500 & ¥7500; h11am-2pm; v; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at

Katsura)

To sample shōjin-ryōri, try Shigetsu in the precincts of Tenryū-ji. This healthy

fare has been sustaining monks for more than a thousand years in Japan, so it

will probably get you through an afternoon of sightseeing, although carnivores

may be left craving something more. Shigetsu has beautiful garden views.

Prices include temple admission.

o Kitcho Arashiyama

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉兆嵐山本店; %075-881-1101; www.kyoto-kitcho.com; 58 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga-Tenryūji, Ukyō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥51,840/64,800; h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue; c;

gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR Sagano/San-in line to Saga-

Arashiyama or Hankyū line to Arashiyama, change at Katsura)

Considered one of the best kaiseki restaurants in Kyoto (and Japan, for that

matter), Kitcho Arashiyama is the place to sample the full kaiseki experience.

Meals are served in private rooms overlooking gardens. The food, service,

explanations and atmosphere are all first rate. Make bookings online via its

website well in advance.

2 City Walk

A Night Stroll Through Gion and Ponto-chō

START YASAKA-JINJA

END KAWARAMACHI STATION

LENGTH 3KM; TWO HOURS

Start on the steps of 1 Yasaka-jinja, at the intersection of Shijō-dōri and Higashiōji-dōri, a 10-

minute walk from Shijō (Keihan line) or Kawaramachi (Hankyū line) stations. Cross to the south

side of Shijō-dōri and just after passing the APA Gion Hotel turn left. Walk 150m and take the

second right. Another 100m brings you to Hanami-kōji, a picturesque street of ryōtei (traditional,

high-class restaurants). Take a look then walk back north to Shijō-dōri.

Cross Shijō-dōri and go west for about 20m then turn right into Kiri-dōshi. As you continue

along Kiri-dōshi, you’ll cross Tominagachō-dōri, which is lined with buildings containing

hundreds of hostess bars.

Kiri-dōshi crosses another street and then narrows to a tiny alley. You are now about to enter

Gion’s most lovely area, which lies just across 2 Tatsumi-bashi. This is the Shimbashi district,

which features some of Kyoto’s finest traditional architecture, most upmarket restaurants and

exclusive hostess bars.

At the fork in the road you will find a small 3 Tatsumi shrine. Take a left and walk west along

the canal. Admire the views across the canal into some of the finest restaurants in Kyoto. You will

occasionally spot geisha entertaining guests in some of these elite establishments.

At the end of Shimbashi, take a left onto gaudy Nawate-dōri. Head west on Shijō-dōri, passing

4 Minamiza, Kyoto’s main kabuki theatre. Cross the Kamo-gawa on the north side of Shijō-Ōhashi

and walk to the kōban (police box) on your right. You are now standing at the intersection of Shijō-

dōri and 5 Ponto-chō. Heading north brings you into an entirely different world of upmarket

restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes.

At the north end of Ponto-chō at Sanjō-dōri, take a left and another left on Kiyamachi-dōri. This

is a much more casual and inexpensive entertainment district.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

For a night out, your best bet is to head to Kiyamachi-dōri and the surrounding

streets where you’ll find bars and clubs around the Shijō-dōri end, and a great

selection of restaurants and nightlife around the Sanjo-dōri end. But it pays to

do some exploring as there are great bars hidden away in streets elsewhere.

There are a number of places to stop in for a drink in the many backstreets

around Gion and the main strip, Shijō-dōri. The luxury hotel bars in this area

are also a good choice for something a bit next level.

6 Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

Kurasu

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-744-0804; www.kurasu.kyoto; 552 Higashiaburano-koji chō, Shimogyō-ku;

h8am-6pm; W; dKyoto Station)

Finally there’s good coffee to be found near Kyoto Station! This minimalist

cafe has a menu of monthly rotating coffee from speciality roasters in Japan,

and offers filter coffee and espresso along with a matcha latte and Prana chai.

Roots of all Evil

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nokishita.net; Kyoto Tower, B1 Karasuma-dōri, Shichijō-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; h11am-11pm; dKyoto Station) F

Stop by this standing bar in the Kyoto Tower Sando food basement for creative

gin cocktails. It’s run by the owner of Nokishita 711 and offers interesting

herbal, spicy, floral gin infusions. Cocktails from ¥800.

Vermillion Espresso Bar

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バーミリオン; www.vermillioncafe.com; 85 Onmae-chō, Fukakusa-inari,

Fushimi-ku; h9am-5pm; W; dJR Nara line to Inari or Keihan line to Fushimi-Inari)

A Melbourne-inspired cafe, tiny Vermillion takes its name from the colour of

the torii of the nearby Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine. It does standout coffee as

well as a small selection of cakes, which can be taken away or enjoyed at the

communal table. It’s on the main street, just a short hop from Inari Station.

Kyoto Brewing Company

BREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都醸造株式会社; %075-574-7820; www.kyotobrewing.com; 25-1

Takahata-chō, Nishikujō, Minami-ku; hnoon-6pm Sat & Sun; dKintetsu line to Jūjō)

You’ll find its beer in many of Kyoto’s bars but it’s worth a trip out to its

tasting room to sample it in a friendly local setting in South Kyoto. Check out

the brewery vats as you sip on a selection of 10 beers on tap, including a few

seasonal releases. Open most weekends; check the website for the schedule.

6 Downtown Kyoto

o Bungalow

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バンガロー; %075-256-8205; www.bungalow.jp; 15 Kashiwaya-chō, Shijō-

dōri, Shimogyō-ku; h3pm-2am Mon-Sat; dHankyū line to Ōmiya)

Spread over two floors with an open-air downstairs bar, Bungalow serves a

great range of Japanese craft beer along with natural wines in a cool industrial

space. The regularly changing menu features 10 beers on tap from all over

Japan and it also serves excellent food.

Weekenders Coffee

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ウィークエンダーズ コーヒー; %075-746-2206;

www.weekenderscoffee.com; 560 Honeyana-chō, Nakagyō-ku; coffee from ¥430; h7.30am-6pm Thu-Tue; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

Weekenders is a tiny coffee bar tucked away in a traditional-style building at

the back of a parking lot in Downtown Kyoto. Sure, it’s a strange location but

it’s where you’ll find some of the city’s best coffee being brewed by roaster-

owner Masahiro Kaneko. It’s mostly takeaway with a small bench out front.

Nokishita 711

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-741-6564; www.nokishita.net; 235 Atsumari-B, Sendo-chō, Shimogyō-ku;

h6pm-2am, to midnight Sun & Mon; W; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

The sign inside says ‘Kyoto Loves Gin’ and if you do too, you won’t want to

miss this quirky little bar. Owner Tomo infuses gin with interesting ingredients,

such as bamboo and smoked tea, and mixes up delicious cocktails with unique

flavours – black sesame, yuzu pepper and truffle honey. There’s a great range

of gins from around the world.

Kaboku Tearoom

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 喫茶室嘉木; Teramachi-dōri, Nijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; h10am-6pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

A casual tearoom attached to the Ippōdō Tea store, Kaboku serves a range of

teas and provides a great break while exploring the shops in the area. Try the

matcha and grab a counter seat to watch it being prepared.

Bee’s Knees

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-585-5595; www.bees-kneeskyoto.jp; 1st fl, Matsuya Bldg, 364 Kamiya-

chō, Nishikiyamachi-dōri, Shijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; cocktails from ¥1300; h6pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am

Fri & Sat; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō or Hankyū line to Kawaramachi)

Speakeasy-style cocktail bars have been popping up in Kyoto of late, and this

one hits the mark with its ‘secret entrance’ (look for the subtle bee sign),

pressed metal ceilings, dark wood and dim lighting. Chatty bartenders mix up

Prohibition-era classics with a twist – try the matcha tiramisu or the smoked

mojito with cherry-blossom wood smoke.

Kiln

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-353-3555; 194 Sendo-chō, Kiyamachi-dōri, Shimogyō-ku; h11am-11pm Thu-Tue; W; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

On a pretty stretch of canal on scenic Kiyamachi-dōri, Kiln’s big windows

frame the view and make it the perfect spot to stare lazily while waiting for

your caffeine to kick in. The brew is made with single-origin beans and there’s

a selection of cakes and toasted sandwiches.

Atlantis

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アトランティス; %075-241-1621; 161 Matsumoto-chō, Ponto-chō-Shijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; cocktails from ¥900; h6pm-2am, to 1am Sun; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

This is a slick Ponto-chō bar that welcomes foreigners and draws a fair

smattering of Kyoto’s beautiful people, and wannabe beautiful people. In

summer you can sit outside on a platform looking over the Kamo-gawa (terrace

closes at 11pm). It’s often crowded so you may have to wait a bit to get in,

especially if you want to sit outside.

Sake Bar Yoramu

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 酒バー よらむ; %075-213-1512; www.sakebar-yoramu.com; 35-1

Matsuya-chō, Nijō-dōri, Higashinotoin higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; h6pm-midnight Wed-Sat; bKarasuma

or Tōzai lines to Karasuma-Oike)

Named for Yoramu, the Israeli sake expert who runs Sake Bar Yoramu, this bar

is highly recommended for anyone after an education in sake. It’s very small

and can only accommodate a handful of people. If you’re not sure what you

like, go for a sake tasting set of three (¥1700). By day, it’s a soba restaurant

called Toru Soba.

Bar K6

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バーK６; %075-255-5009; 2nd fl, Le Valls Bldg, Nijō-dōri, Kiyamachi higashi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; h6pm-3am, to 5am Fri & Sat; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, dKeihan

line to Jingu-Marutamachi)

Overlooking one of the prettiest stretches of Kiyamachi-dōri, this upscale

modern Japanese bar has a great selection of single malts and some of the best

cocktails in town. It’s popular with well-heeled locals and travellers staying at

some of the top-flight hotels nearby.

Taigu

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ダイグ ガストロ パブ; %075-213-0214; 1st fl, 498 Kamikoriki-chō, Nakagyō-ku; h11.30am-11pm; W; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

Looking out on scenic Kiyamachi-dōri, Taigu (formerly Tadg’s Gastro Pub) is

a good spot for an evening drink. Choose from an extensive selection of craft

beers (including several rotating Japanese beers on tap), a variety of wines,

sake and spirits. It also does pub-style meals.

6 Southern Higashiyama

Beer Komachi

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ビア小町; %075-746-6152; www.beerkomachi.com; 444 Hachiken-chō, Higashiyama-ku; h5-11pm, from 3pm Sat & Sun, closed Tue; W; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Located in the Furokawa-chō covered shopping arcade close to Higashiyama

Station, this tiny casual bar is dedicated to promoting Japanese craft beer.

There are usually seven Japanese beers on tap, which rotate on an almost daily

basis. There’s a great bar-food menu and a list of sake if you’re not much of a

beer drinker.

Tōzan Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-541-3201; www.kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; Hyatt Regency Kyoto, 644-2

Sanjūsangendō-mawari, Higashiyama-ku; h5pm-midnight; dKeihan line to Shichijō)

Even if you’re not spending the night at the Hyatt Regency, drop by the cool

and cosy underground bar for a tipple or two. Kitted out by renowned design

firm Super Potato, the dimly lit atmospheric space features interesting touches,

such as old locks, wooden beams, an antique-book library space and a wall

feature made from traditional wooden sweet moulds.

Gion Finlandia Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ぎをん フィンランディアバー; %075-541-3482;

www.finlandiabar.com; 570-123 Gion-machi, Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; cover ¥500; h6pm-3am; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

This stylish, minimalist Gion bar in an old geisha house is a great place for a

quiet civilised drink. There’s no menu, so just prop up at the bar and let the

bow-tied bartender know what you like, whether it’s an expertly crafted

cocktail or a high-end Japanese single malt. Friday and Saturday nights can get

busy, so you may have to queue.

6 Northern Higashiyama

Metro

CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; メトロ; %075-752-4765; www.metro.ne.jp; BF Ebisu Bldg, Kawabata-dōri,

Marutamachi-sagaru, Sakyō-ku; h8pm-3am; dKeihan line to Jingū-Marutamachi)

Metro is part disco, part live house and it even hosts the occasional art

exhibition. It attracts an eclectic mix of creative types and has a different theme

nightly. Metro is inside exit 2 of the Jingū-Marutamachi Station on the Keihan

line.

Kick Up

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キックアップ; %075-761-5604; 331 Higashikomonoza-chō, Higashiyama-ku; h7pm-midnight, closed Wed; bTōzai line to Keage)

Located just across the street from the Westin Miyako Kyoto, this wonderful

bar attracts a regular crowd of Kyoto expats, local Japanese and guests from

the Westin. It’s subdued, relaxing and friendly.

6 Arashiyama & Sagano

o Hiranoya

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平野屋; %075-861-0359; 16 Sennō-chō, Saga-Toriimoto, Ukyō-ku; h9am-9pm; gKyoto City bus 72 from Kyoto Station to Otaginenbutsu-ji-mae)

Located next to the Atago Torii (a large Shintō shrine gate), this thatched-roof

restaurant is about as atmospheric as they get. It serves matcha (powdered

green tea) and a sweet for ¥840; the perfect way to cool off after a long slog

around the temples of Arashiyama and Sagano. It also does a light lunch from

11.30am.

% Arabica

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %075-748-0057; www.arabica.coffee; 3-47 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga-Tenryūji, Ukyō-ku; h8am-6pm; gKyoto City bus 28 from Kyoto Station to Arashiyama-Tenryuji-mae, dJR

Sagano (San-in) line to Saga-Arashiyama)

Peer through the floor-to-ceiling windows that look across the Hozu-gawa and

mountain backdrop as you order your coffee at this tiny cafe bringing excellent

brew to Arashiyama. Grab a takeaway and stroll along the river or nab a bench

out the front to take in the views.

3 Entertainment

o Minamiza

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南座; www.kabukiweb.net; Shijō-Ōhashi, Higashiyama-ku; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

This theatre in Gion is the oldest kabuki theatre in Japan. The major event of

the year is the Kaomise festival in December, which features Japan’s finest

kabuki actors.

Taku-Taku

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 磔磔; %075-351-1321; Tominokōji-dōri-Bukkōji, Shimogyō-ku; tickets ¥1500-4000; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

One of Kyoto’s most atmospheric live-music venues, with a long history of

hosting some great local and international acts. Check the Kyoto Visitor’s

Guide and flyers in local coffee shops and record stores for details on

upcoming events. It can be hard to spot: look for the wooden sign with black

kanji on it and go through the gate.

ROHM Theatre Kyoto

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都観世会館; %075-771-6051; www.rohmtheatrekyoto.jp; 44 Okazaki Enshōji-chō, Sakyō-ku; tickets from ¥3000; hbox office 10am-7pm; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

Housed in a striking modernist building, ROHM Theatre hosts everything from

international ballet and opera performances to comedy shows, classical music

concerts and nō (stylised dance-drama performed on a bare stage).

Jittoku

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 拾得; %075-841-1691; 815 Hishiya-chō, Kamigyō-ku; h5.30pm-midnight; bTōzai line to Nijōjō-mae)

Jittoku is located in an atmospheric old sakagura (sake brewery). It plays host

to a variety of shows – check Kansai Scene to see what’s on. It also serves

food.

Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko Evening

DANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ぎおん畑中; %075-541-5315; www.kyoto-maiko.jp; 505 Gion-machi, Minami-gawa, Higashiyama-ku; per person ¥19,000; h6-8pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat; gKyoto City bus

206 to Gion or Chionin-mae, dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

If you want to witness geisha perform and then actually speak with them, one

of the best opportunities is at Gion Hatanaka, a Gion ryokan that offers a

regularly scheduled evening of elegant Kyoto kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine)

and personal entertainment by real Kyoto geiko (fully fledged geisha) as well

as maiko (apprentice geisha). Children under seven years are not permitted.

Check the website for the schedule; Fridaynight performances are

guaranteed but other nights are subject to change.

Gion Corner

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ギオンコーナー; %075-561-1119; www.kyoto-gioncorner.com; Yasaka Kaikan, 570-2 Gion-machi, Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; adult/child ¥3150/1900; hperformances 6pm

& 7pm, Fri-Sun only Dec–mid-Mar; gKyoto City bus 206 to Gion, dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō)

Gion Corner presents one-hour shows that include a bit of tea ceremony, koto

(Japanese zither) music, ikebana (art of flower arranging), gagaku (court

music), kyōgen (ancient comic plays), kyōmai (Kyoto-style dance) and bunraku

(classical puppet theatre). It’s a hugely touristy affair and fairly pricey for what

you get. Tickets have been discounted from ¥3150 to ¥2500 for foreigners for

quite some time. Try to arrive early for front-row seats.

DON’T MISS

GEISHA PERFORMANCES

The best way to experience geisha culture is to see one of Kyoto’s annual public dance

performances (known as odori), a city tradition for over a century.

Miyako Odori ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 都をどり; %075-541-3391; www.miyako-odori.jp; Gion Kōbu Kaburen-jō Theatre, 570-2 Gion-machi, Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; tickets from

¥4000; hshows 12.30pm, 2.20pm & 4.10pm; gKyoto City bus 206 to Gion, dKeihan line to Gion-

Shijō) Our top pick, held throughout April, usually at Gion Kōbu Kaburen-jō Theatre, but the

building is under ongoing renovations until around 2021. Performances will be held at Minamiza

in the meantime.

Kyō Odori ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京おどり; %075-561-1151; Miyagawachō Kaburenjo, 4306 Miyagawasuji, Higashiyama-ku; with/without tea from ¥2800/2200; hshows 1pm, 2.45pm &

4.30pm; dKeihan line to Gion-Shijō) Performed by the geisha of the Miyagawa-chō district, from

the first to the third Sunday in April at the Miyagawa-chō Kaburen-jō Theatre (宮川町歌舞練

場), east of the Kamo-gawa between Shijō-dōri and Gojō-dōri.

Kamogawa Odori ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鴨川をどり; %075-221-2025; Ponto-chō, Sanjō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; seat ¥2300, special seat without/with tea ¥4800/4200; hshows 12.30pm,

2.20pm & 4.10pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae) Held 1 to 24 May at Ponto-chō

Kaburen-jō Theatre in Ponto-chō.

Gion Odori ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 祇園をどり; %075-561-0224; Gion, Higashiyama-ku; with/without tea ¥4500/4000; hshows 1.30pm & 4pm; gKyoto City bus 206 to Gion) Performed by

the geisha of the Gion Higashi district 1 to 10 November at the Gion Kaikan Theatre (祇園会館),

near Yasaka-jinja.

In addition to these, there are a few more tourist-oriented performances in Kyoto that can be seen

year-round, such as Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko Evening.

Geisha performances | CHRISTIAN KOBER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

7 Shopping

Kyoto has a fantastic variety of both traditional and modern shops. Most are

located in the Downtown Kyoto area, making the city a very convenient place

to shop. Shijō-dōri, between Kawaramachi-dōri and Karasuma-dōri, is great for

department stores, fashion boutiques and traditional arts and crafts.

7 Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

JR Isetan

DEPARTMENT STORE

(ジェイアール京都伊勢丹; MAP ; %075-352-1111; Kyoto Station Bldg, Karasuma-dōri,

Shiokōji-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku; h10am-8pm; dKyoto Station)

Isetan is an elegant department store located inside the Kyoto Station building,

making it perfect for a last-minute spot of shopping before hopping on the train

to the airport or your next destination. Don’t miss the B1 and B2 food floors.

7 Downtown Kyoto

o Aritsugu

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 有次; %075-221-1091; 219 Kajiya-chō, Nishikikōji-dōri, Gokomachi nishi-iru, Nakagyō-ku; h9am-5.30pm; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

While you’re in Nishiki Market, have a look at this store – it has some of the

best kitchen knives in the world. Choose your knife – all-rounder, sushi,

vegetable – and the staff will show you how to care for it before sharpening

and boxing it up. You can also have your name engraved in English or

Japanese. Knives start at around ¥10,000.

Founded in 1560, Aritsugu was originally involved in the production of

swords and the blacksmith skills have been passed down over the years through

generation after generation. It also carries a selection of excellent and unique

Japanese kitchenware and whetstones for knife sharpening.

o Ippōdō Tea

TEA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一保堂茶舗; %075-211-3421; www.ippodo-tea.co.jp; Teramachi-dōri, Nijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; h9am-6pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

This old-style tea shop sells some of the best Japanese tea in Kyoto, and you’ll

be given an English leaflet with prices and descriptions of each one. Its matcha

makes an excellent and lightweight souvenir. Ippōdō is north of the city hall,

on Teramachi-dōri. It has an adjoining teahouse, Kaboku Tearoom; last order

5.30pm.

o Zōhiko

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 象彦; %075-229-6625; www.zohiko.co.jp; 719-1 Yohojimae-chō, Teramachi-dōri, Nijō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; h10am-6pm; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

Zōhiko is the best place in Kyoto to buy one of Japan’s most beguiling art-and-

craft forms: lacquerware. If you aren’t familiar with just how beautiful these

products can be, you owe it to yourself to make the pilgrimage to Zōhiko.

You’ll find a great selection of cups, bowls, trays and various kinds of boxes.

o Wagami no Mise

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 倭紙の店; %075-341-1419; 1st fl, Kajinoha Bldg, 298 Ōgisakaya-chō, Higashinotōin-dōri, Bukkōji-agaru, Shimogyō-ku; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat; bKarasuma

line to Shijō)

This place sells a fabulous variety of washi for reasonable prices and is a great

spot to pick up a gift or souvenir. Look for the Morita Japanese Paper

Company sign on the wall out the front.

o Takashimaya

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高島屋; %075-221-8811; Shijō-Kawaramachi Kado, Shimogyō-ku; h10am-8pm; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

The grande dame of Kyoto department stores, Takashimaya is almost a tourist

attraction in its own right, from the mind-boggling riches of the basement food

floor to the wonderful selection of lacquerware and ceramics on the 6th. Check

out the kimono display on the 5th floor.

Maruzen

BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 丸善; Basement, BAL, 251 Yamazaki-chō, Kawaramachi-sanjo sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; h11am-9pm; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

Occupying two basement floors of the BAL department store, this excellent

bookshop has a massive range of English-language books across all subjects,

plenty of titles on Kyoto and Japan, a great selection of Japanese literature,

magazines from around the globe and travel guides.

Tokyu Hands

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東急ハンズ京都店; %075-254-3109; http://kyoto.tokyu-hands.co.jp; Shijō-dōri, Karasuma higashi-iru, Shimogyō-ku; h10am-8.30pm; bKarasuma line to Shijō)

While the Kyoto branch of Tokyu Hands doesn’t have the selection of bigger

branches in places like Tokyo, it’s still well worth a browse for fans of gadgets

and unique homewares. It’s a good place for an interesting gift or souvenir,

from Hario coffee equipment and lacquerware bentō boxes to stationery and

cosmetics.

Kyūkyo-dō

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鳩居堂; %075-231-0510; www.kyukyodo.co.jp; 520 Shimohonnōjimae-chō, Teramachi-dōri, Aneyakōji-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; bTōzai line to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae)

This old shop in the Teramachi covered arcade sells a selection of incense,

shodō (calligraphy) goods, tea-ceremony supplies and washi. Prices are on the

high side but the quality is good. Overall, this is your best one-stop shop for

distinctively Japanese souvenirs.

Mimuro

CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; みむろ; %075-344-1220; www.mimuro.net; Matsubara, Nishi-iru, Karasuma-

dori, Shimogyo-ku; h10am-6.30pm; bKarasuma line to Shijō)

Mimuro is a great spot for anyone looking to take home a good-quality kimono

or yukata (light cotton kimono). The Englishspeaking staff will go out of their

way to help you find what you’re looking for out of the huge range of colours

and designs spread over five floors. Yukata prices start at ¥5000 and kimonos

from ¥35,000.

BAL

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; バル; www.bal-bldg.com; 251 Yamazaki-chō, Kawaramachi-dōri, Sanjō-sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; h11am-8pm; dHankyū line to Kawaramachi)

For all your high-end fashion and homeware needs, the chic and elegant BAL

department store is the place to go. You’ll find designer fashion, botanical

skincare from Neal’s Yard, great souvenirs and gifts at Today’s Special, and the

ever popular lifestyle store Muji. The two basement floors house the huge

Maruzen bookstore.

Daimaru

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大丸; %075-211-8111; Tachiuri Nishi-machi 79, Shijō-dōri, Takakura nishi-iru, Shimogyō-ku; h10am-8pm; bKarasuma line to Shijō, dHankyū line to Karasuma)

Daimaru has fantastic service, a brilliant selection of goods and a basement

food floor that will make you want to move to Kyoto.

DON’T MISS

KYOTO’S MARKETS

Kōbō-san Market Held on the 21st of the month at Tō-ji to commemorate the death of Kōbō

Daishi, who in 823 was appointed abbot of the temple. If you’re after used kimonos, pottery, bric-

a-brac, plants, tools and general Japanalia, this is the place.

Tenjin-san Market Takes place on the 25th of the month at Kitano Tenman-gū. It’s a sprawling flea

market that marks the birthday (and the death) of the Heian-era statesman Sugawara Michizane

(845–903). You’ll find loads of ceramics, secondhand kimonos, antiques and food stalls.

7 Southern Higashiyama

The stretch of Shijō-dōri from Gion-Shijō Station to Yasaka-jinja is packed

with souvenir stalls and shops selling everything from tea and sweets to

kokeshi (wooden Japanese dolls) and chopsticks. For ceramics, check out the

stores lining the streets leading to Kiyomizu-dera.

o Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一澤信三郎帆布; %075-541-0436; www.ichizawa.co.jp; 602 Takabatake-chō, Higashiyama-ku; h9am-6pm, closed Tue; bTōzai line to Higashiyama)

This company has been making its canvas bags for over 110 years and the store

is often crammed with those in the know picking up a skillfully crafted Kyoto

product. Originally designed as ‘tool’ bags for workers to carry sake bottles,

milk and ice blocks, the current designs still reflect this idea. Choose from a

range of styles and colours.

This is the one and only store that sells these bags making it the perfect

souvenir.

Asahi-dō

CERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 朝日堂; %075-531-2181; www.asahido.co.jp/english; 1-280 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku; h9am-6pm; gKyoto City bus 206 to Kiyōmizumichi or Gojō-zaka, dKeihan line to

Kiyomizu-Gojō)

Located in the heart of the Kiyomizu pottery area, Asahi-dō has been

specialising in Kyōyaki-Kiyomizuyaki (Kyoto-style pottery) since 1870. The

complex is called Asahi Touan and comprises the main store with the widest

collection of Kyoto-style pottery in the city, as well as other stores selling a

range of works, including some by the best up-and-coming ceramic artists in

Japan.

7 Northern Higashiyama

Kyoto Handicraft Center

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京都ハンディクラフトセンター; %075-761-8001;

www.kyotohandicraftcenter.com; 17 Entomi-chō, Shōgoin, Sakyō-ku; h10am-7pm; gKyoto City bus 206

to Kumano-jinja-mae)

Split between two buildings, East and West, this place sells a good range of

Japanese arts and crafts, including Hokusai woodblock prints (reproductions

from ¥5000), Japanese dolls and a great selection of books on Japanese culture

and travel guides. English-speaking staff are on hand and currency exchange is

available. Within walking distance of the main Higashiyama sightseeing route.

7 Imperial Palace & Around

Aizen Kōbō

CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 愛染工房; %075-441-0355; www.aizenkobo.jp; 215 Yoko Omiya-chō, Nakasuji-dōri, Omiya Nishi-iru, Kamigyō-ku; h10am-5.30pm, to 4pm Sat & Sun; gKyoto City bus 9 to

Horikawa-Imadegawa)

In the heart of the Nishijin textile district in a beautifully restored machiya

(traditional Japanese townhouse), Aizen Kōbō has been producing its indigo-

dyed handwoven textiles for three generations using the traditional dyeing

method known as aizome. Products are hand-dyed using natural fermenting

indigo and vegetable dye sourced from the Tade plant, native to Japan.

8 Information

MEDICAL SERVICES

Kyoto Prefectural University Hospital ( MAP ; %075-251-5111; www.h.kpu-m.ac.jp/en;

Kawaramachi-Hirokoji, Kamigyō-ku; hwalk-in appointments 8.15-11am Mon-Fri; dKeihan line to

Demachiyanagi) Can try to provide English-speaking staff to assist you and has

English-speaking doctors.

Kyoto University Hospital (京都大学医学部附属病院; MAP ; %075-751-3111;

www.kuhp.kyoto-u.ac.jp; 54 Shōgoinkawahara-chō, Sakyō-ku; hwalk-in appointments 8.15-11am Mon-Fri; dKeihan line to Jingū-Marutamachi) The best hospital in Kyoto. There is an

information counter near the entrance on the ground floor that can point you in

the right direction.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Kyoto Tourist Information Center ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 京都総合観光案内所, TIC; %075-343-0548; 2F Kyoto Station Bldg, Shimogyō-ku; h8.30am-7pm; dKyoto Station) Stocks

bus and city maps, has plenty of transport info and English speakers are

available to answer your questions.

USEFUL RESOURCES

Deep Kyoto (www.deepkyoto.com) This website has listings on little-known

Kyoto bars, cafes and restaurants, as well as some event information.

Kansai Scene (www.kansaiscene.com) Magazine with listings of foreigner-

friendly bars and detailed upcoming events. Available at major bookshops and

foreigner-friendly businesses. See website for places where you can grab a

copy.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Coming directly to Kyoto, most foreign visitors arrive via Kansai International

Airport (KIX), the nearest international airport. It’s sometimes cheaper to fly

into Tokyo than into KIX, and then take a connecting flight.

BUS

Overnight JR buses run between Tokyo Station (Nihombashi-guchi/arrival,

Yaesu-guchi/departure long-distance bus stop) and Kyoto Station Bus

Terminal (京都駅前バスターミナル; MAP ). The trip takes about seven hours

and the one-way fare starts at around ¥5200. There is a similar service to/from

Shinjuku Station’s Shin-minami-guchi in Tokyo.

Other JR bus transport possibilities include Kanazawa (one way from ¥3100)

and Hiroshima (one way from ¥4100).

You can purchase tickets from the bus information centre at Kyoto Station.

Willer Express (www.willerexpress.com) is a great budget option for long-

distance and overnight buses. It operates between most major cities and Kyoto,

and has comfortable reclining seats with a range of options from private seats

to those with more legroom. From Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station to Kyoto the fare

starts at around ¥3200.

TRAIN

Train travel between Kyoto and other parts of Japan is a breeze. Kyoto Station

is served by the Tōkaidō and San-yō shinkansen (bullet train) lines, which

connect the city to Nagoya and Tokyo to the east and Kansai destinations

Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station), Kōbe (Shin-Kōbe Station) and Himeji to the west

(and beyond to Hiroshima, and other destinations in western Honshū and

Kyūshū).

Private lines connect Kyoto Station with Nagoya, Nara, Osaka and Kōbe.

Where they exist, private lines are always cheaper than JR. In particular, if

you’re travelling between Kyoto Station and Nara, you’ll probably find a

tokkyū (limited express) on the Kintetsu line to be faster and more comfortable

than JR.

KYOTO BUS & RAIL PASSES

One-day unlimited travel passes There’s a one-day card valid for unlimited travel on Kyoto City

buses and some of the Kyoto buses (these are different companies) that costs ¥600 and a one-day

subway pass that also costs ¥600. A one-day unlimited bus and subway pass costs ¥900.

Kyoto Sightseeing Pass Allows unlimited use of the Kyoto City buses, subway and some of the

Kyoto bus routes for one/two days for ¥900/1700.

One-day bus and Kyoto Sightseeing passes can be purchased at major bus terminals, at the Kyoto

Bus Information Centre at Kyoto Station or at the Kyoto Tourist Information Center. The one-day

subway pass can be bought at subway ticket windows and the Kyoto Tourist Information Center.

For travelling around Kansai (including to and from Kansai International Airport), consider

getting an ICOCA card or one of the many discount passes for the region.

The Kyoto City Subway Pass (adult/child ¥600/300) allows unlimited travel on the city’s

subway for one day, plus discounts on some sights. You can buy it from the Kyoto Tourist

Information Center or any subway ticket office.

8 Getting Around

TO/FROM KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Bus

Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus (%075-682-4400; www.kate.co.jp/en;

one-way adult/child ¥2550/1280) runs frequent buses between Kyoto and KIX (about

1½ hours). Buses from Kyoto Station to the airport depart from the Hachijo-

guchi exit ( MAP ; in front of the Avanti department store and Keihan Hotel)

every 20 to 40 minutes. There are also pick-up points at Shijō Karasuma and

Sanjō Keihan departing roughly every 60 minutes. Purchase tickets from the

ticket window near the boarding point.

Taxi

MK Taxi Sky Gate Shuttle limousine van service (%075-778-5489; www.mktaxi-

japan.com; one-way to Kansai airport ¥4200, to Itami airport ¥2900) is a door-to-door service

that will drop you off at most places in Kyoto – simply go to the staff counter

at the south end of the KIX arrivals hall and they will do the rest. From Kyoto

to the airport it is necessary to make reservations two days in advance to

arrange pickup from your hotel in Kyoto.

A similar service is offered by Yasaka Taxi (%075-803-4800; www.yasaka.jp;

adult/child one-way ¥4200/2100). Keep in mind that these are shared taxis (actually

vans), so you may be delayed by the driver picking up or dropping off other

passengers.

Train

The fastest and most convenient way to move between KIX and Kyoto is the

special JR Haruka airport express (reserved/unreserved ¥3370/2850, 1¼

hours). It’s actually cheaper to buy a JR West Kansai Area Pass as this is valid

for unreserved seats on the JR Haruka express to KIX and costs ¥2300. Buy

tickets at the JR ticket office inside the north entrance of Kyoto Station, to the

left of the platform ticket gates (you’ll need to show your passport).

First and last departures on the JR Haruka express from KIX to Kyoto are at

6.30am and 10.16pm Monday to Friday (6.40am on weekends); first and last

departures from Kyoto to KIX are at 5.45am and 8.30pm.

If you have time to spare, you can save money by taking the kankū kaisoku

(Kansai airport express) between the airport and Osaka Station, and then taking

a regular shinkaisoku (special rapid train) to Kyoto. The total journey by this

route takes about 95 minutes with good connections and costs around ¥1750.

BICYCLE

Kyoto is a great city to explore on a bicycle. With the exception of the outlying

areas, it is mostly flat and there is a useful bike path running the length of the

Kamo-gawa.

Many guesthouses hire or lend bicycles to their guests and there are also hire

shops around Kyoto Station, in Arashiyama and in Downtown Kyoto. With a

decent bicycle and a good map, you can easily make your way all around the

city. Dedicated bicycle tours are also available.

Bicycle helmets are only required to be worn by law by children 12 years

and under.

Note that cycling on the following streets is prohibited:

A Kawaramachi-dōri, between Oike-dōri and Bukkoji-dōri

A Shijo-dōri, between Higashioji-dōri and Karasuma-dōri

A Sanjo-dōri, between Kiyamachi-dōri and Kawaramachi-dōri

For more information, visit Cycle Kyoto (www.cyclekyoto.com).

BUS

Kyoto has an intricate network of bus routes providing an efficient way of

getting around at moderate cost. Most of the routes used by visitors have

announcements and bus-stop information displays in English. Most buses run

between 7am and 10pm, though a few run earlier or later.

Kyoto’s main bus terminals are also train stations: Kyoto Station, Sanjō

Station, Karasuma-Shijō Station and Kitaōji Station. The bus terminal at Kyoto

Station is on the north side and has three main departure bays (departure points

are indicated by the letter of the bay and number of the stop within that bay).

Bus stops usually have a map of destinations from that stop and a timetable

for the buses serving that stop.

The main bus information centre (京都バス案内所; MAP ; Kyoto Station; hcity

bus office 7.30am-7.30pm, JR office 9am-6pm; dKyoto Station) is located in front of Kyoto

Station. Here you can pick up bus maps, purchase bus tickets and passes (on all

lines, including highway buses), and get additional information.

The Kyoto Tourist Information Center stocks the Bus Navi: Kyoto City Bus

Sightseeing Map, which shows the city’s main bus lines.

Bus entry is usually through the back door and exit is via the front door.

Inner-city buses charge a flat fare (¥230 for adults, ¥120 for children ages six

to 12, free for those younger), which you drop into the clear plastic receptacle

on top of the machine next to the driver on your way out. A separate machine

gives change for ¥100 and ¥500 coins or ¥1000 notes.

SUBWAY

Kyoto has two efficient subway lines, operating from 5.30am to 11.30pm.

Minimum adult fare is ¥210 (children ¥110).

The quickest way to travel between the north and south of the city is the

Karasuma subway line. The line has 15 stops and runs from Takeda in the far

south, via Kyoto Station, to the Kyoto International Conference Hall

(Kokusaikaikan Station) in the north.

The east–west Tōzai subway line traverses Kyoto from Uzumasa-

Tenjingawa Station in the west, meeting the Karasuma subway line at

Karasuma-Oike Station, and continuing east to Sanjō-Keihan, Yamashina and

Rokujizō in the east and southeast.

TAXI

Taxis are a convenient, but expensive, way of getting from place to place about

town. A taxi can usually be flagged down in most parts of the city at any time.

There are also a large number of takushī noriba (taxi stands) in town, outside

most train/subway stations, department stores etc.

During high seasons for tourism (cherry-blossom season in April and

autumn-foliage season in November), the taxi ranks on the south and north side

of Kyoto Station can be very long. If you’re in a hurry, walk a few blocks north

of the station and hail a cab off the street.

Foreigner-friendly taxis aim to make the taxi system more accessible to

tourists, with drivers who can speak other languages, such as English and

Chinese, and accepting payment by credit card. The taxis are clearly marked as

‘foreigner friendly’ and there are separate taxi stands in front of the JR Kyoto

Station north ( MAP ) and south ( MAP ) exits.

TRAIN

The main train station in Kyoto is Kyoto Station, which is in the south of the

city, just below Shichijō-dōri and is actually two stations under one roof: JR

Kyoto Station and Kintetsu Kyoto Station.

In addition to the private Kintetsu line that operates from Kyoto Station,

there are two other private train lines in Kyoto: the Hankyū line that operates

from Downtown Kyoto along Shijō-dōri and the Keihan line that operates from

stops along the Kamo-gawa.

Kansai

Osaka

Kōbe

Himeji

Nara Prefecture

Nara

Asuka

Yoshino

Kii Peninsula

Kōya-san

Kumano Kodō

Ise-Shima

Shiga Prefecture

Ōtsu

Hikone

Northern Kansai

Ōhara

Kurama & Kibune

Miyama

Amanohashidate

Kinosaki Onsen

Kansai

Why Go?

Kansai (関西) is the heart of Japan, where much of modernday Japanese

culture originated. Its highlights read like a greatest-hits list. Looking for a

vibrant dining and drinking scene and the vivid colour that Japanese cities are

famous for? Head to Osaka. Want to get out into remote mountains and hike for

days? Follow the ancient trails of the Kumano Kodō. Famous works of art? See

the Buddhist sculptures in Nara. Onsen? There’s a whole town for that in

Kinosaki. Castles? Check. There’s enough to fill a whole itinerary here, and it’s

all easy to access by public transport. Kansai is a great place to explore if this

is your first time in Japan, and it’s also a good choice if you’re a repeat visitor:

there’s much to discover beyond the highlights, including fascinating temples,

shrines and archaeological sites that resonate through the ages.

When to Go

Late Mar–mid-Apr The beauty of the cherry blossoms is over the top.

May–Sep July and August are hot and sticky, but summer’s a great time for

festivals and street life.

Oct–early Dec Kansai’s sights are sublime against a backdrop of bright-red

maple leaves.

Best Places to Eat

A Wanaka Honten

A Chibō

A Yururi

A Yoshino Sushi

A Yōshūji

A Kōbe Plaisir

Best Places to Stay

A Nishimuraya Honkan

A Ekō-in

A Blue Sky Guesthouse

A Hostel 64 Osaka

A Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

A Ryokan Ugenta

Kansai Highlights

1 Dōtombori Getting the full sensory experience at Osaka’s famous strip

for street food, colourful neon and heaving crowds.

2 Tōdai-ji Being awed by Japan’s largest Buddha statue, housed in one of

Nara’s (many) fantastic temples.

3 Kumano Kodō Walking the ancient pilgrimage trails in the remote

interior of the Kii Peninsula.

4 Oku-no-in Wandering through Kōya-san’s deeply spiritual Buddhist

cemetery with stone pagodas set among soaring cedars.

5 Himeji-jō Seeing Japan’s most magnificent castle, a rare original from

the 16th century.

6 Kinosaki Onsen Wrapping yourself in a yukata (light cotton kimono)

and hopping from bath to bath at this historic hot-spring resort.

7 Ise-jingū Feeling the gravitas emanating from Japan’s most sacred

Shintō shrine.

8 Getting There & Around

Kansai International Airport is the main international point of entry for the

region, though it gets fewer direct long-haul flights than Tokyo’s Narita

Airport. If you’re flying from elsewhere in Japan, there are also a few domestic

airports, including Osaka Itami Airport, which is closer to Osaka, and Nanki

Shirahama Airport, at the southern end of the Kii Peninsula.

The cities of Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station), Kōbe (Shin-Kōbe Station) and

Himeji are on the shinkansen (bullet-train) network, easily accessed from

points east (like Tokyo) or west (like Hiroshima or Fukuoka). Osaka is a major

hub for long-distance buses.

Ferries connect the cities of Osaka and Kōbe to the islands of Shikoku and

Kyūshū.

There’s an extensive network of Japan Rail and other (‘private’) train lines

throughout Kansai. The only places that require buses to get to the sights are

rural Kyoto and Nara Prefectures and parts of the Kumano Kodō on the Kii

Peninsula. If you plan to spend a lot of time outside the cities, renting a car is

an increasingly popular option. Take care if you’ll be doing a lot of expressway

driving, though, as tolls can quickly add up, and be wary of heading into the

mountains in winter unless you have four-wheel drive, snow tyres and relevant

driving experience.

KANSAI TRAVEL PASSES

Rail passes, available only to travellers on temporary visitor visas (you’ll have to show your

passport), offer good deals for getting around Kansai.

Kansai Thru Pass (www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_english.html) is the best deal for hitting the highlights of the Kansai region. Good for two (adult/child ¥4000/2000) or three (adult/child

¥5200/2600) days, it covers city subways and buses and private railways (excluding JR lines) that

connect Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Kōbe, Himeji, Kōya-san and Kansai International Airport. It also

entitles you to discounts at many attractions in the Kansai area. Purchase at the airport or a Tourist

Information Center in Osaka.

Purchase the following two JR West (www.westjr.co.jp) passes online (for an exchange voucher) or at JR Kyoto, Shin-Osaka and Osaka Stations or the airport:

Kansai Area Pass Valid for one (adult/child ¥2300/1150), two (adult/child ¥4500/2250), three

(adult/child ¥5500/2750) or four (adult/child ¥6500/3250) days of travel on JR intercity trains

(excluding the shinkansen) between Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, Himeji and Ōtsu, plus travel to Kansai

International Airport.

Kansai Wide Area Pass (adult/child ¥10,000/5000) Valid for five consecutive days; covers travel

on JR intercity trains (excluding the shinkansen) between Osaka, Kyoto, Nara and Kansai

International Airport, plus travel on the San-yō Shinkansen between Osaka and Okayama (via

Kōbe and Himeji) and limited express trains going north to the Sea of Japan coast (including

Kinosaki Onsen) and south to the Kii Peninsula.

Kansai One Pass (https://kansaionepass.com/en) is an ICOCA card (¥3000, including ¥500

refundable deposit) that has an image of Astro Boy on it and is specifically for foreigners. It offers

discounts at selected tourist attractions and some temples.

OSAKA 大阪

%06 / POP 2,705,300

If Kyoto was the city of the courtly nobility and Tokyo the city of the samurai,

then Osaka (大阪) was the city of the merchant class. Osakans take pride in

shedding the conservatism found elsewhere in Japan, and this spirited city –

Japan’s third-largest – is a place where people are a bit brasher and interactions

are peppered with playful jabs.

It’s not a pretty city in the conventional sense – though it does have a lovely

river cutting through the centre – but it packs more colour than most; its acres

of concrete are cloaked in dazzling neon billboards. The best way to get under

its skin is by chowing down on local cuisine and enjoying a drink at an izakaya

(pub restaurant) alongside good-humoured locals. The city’s unofficial slogan

is kuidaore (‘eat until you drop’), and it seems that everyone is always out for a

good meal – and a good time.

History

Osaka (originally called ‘Naniwa’, a name still heard today) has been a key

port and mercantile centre from the beginning of Japan’s recorded history.

From the 6th century onwards, it became Japan’s base for trade with Korea and

China – a gateway for goods but also ideas such as Buddhism and empire-

building, and new technologies.

In the late 16th century, Osaka rose to prominence when the warlord

Toyotomi Hideyoshi, having unified all of Japan after centuries of civil war,

chose Osaka as the site for his castle. Merchants set up around the castle and

the city grew into a busy economic centre. When Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the

seat of power to Edo (now Tokyo) in the early 17th century, he adopted a

hands-off approach to the city, allowing merchants to prosper unhindered by

government interference. During the Edo period (1603–1868) Osaka served as

Japan’s largest distribution centre for rice (which was akin to currency at the

time), earning it the nickname ‘Japan’s Kitchen’.

In the late 19th and 20th centuries, as economic influence became

increasingly consolidated in Tokyo, Osaka reinvented itself as one of the most

productive manufacturing centres in East Asia. Unfortunately this made it a

bombing target during WWII. During the 1945 air raids, one-third of the city

centre was levelled and upwards of 10,000 people were killed.

Today commerce remains vital to Osaka – it is the business hub of western

Japan – while the greater Keihanshin Industrial Zone, of which Osaka is part, is

one of Japan’s great manufacturing centres.

Osaka

1 Top Sights

1 Abeno Harukas

C6

2 Osaka-jō

C4

1 Sights

Abeno Harukas Art Museum

(see 1)

3 Liberty Osaka

B6

4 Museum of Oriental Ceramics

B3

5 Naka-no-shima-kōen

C4

6 Osaka Museum of History

C4

7 Shin-Sekai

B6

8 Tsūten-kaku

B6

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

9 Cycle Osaka

A3

10 Ofune Camome

C4

11 Spa World

B6

4 Sleeping

12 Conrad Osaka

B3

13 Hostel 64 Osaka

B4

14 Hostel Mitsuwaya

C5

15 Hotel Cordia

B4

Pax Hostel

(see 8)

16 Shin-Osaka Youth Hostel

B1

17 U-en

A3

5 Eating

18 Endo Sushi

A4

19 Ganso Kushikatsu Daruma Honten

B6

20 Gout

C4

Yokozuna

(see 19)

21 Yoshino Sushi

B4

22 Yotaro Honten

B4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

40 Sky Bar & Lounge

(see 12)

23 Beer Belly

B4

24 Beer Belly Tenma

C3

25 Brooklyn Roasting Company

B4

26 Frenz Frenzy

B3

27 Mel Coffee Roasters

B4

3 Entertainment

28 Fandango

A2

29 Kyōcera Dome

A5

30 Namba Bears

B5

31 National Bunraku Theatre

C5

7 Shopping

32 Graf Studio

B4

33 Shimada-Shōten

B4

Tower Knives

(see 8)

8 Information

34 Australian Consulate

D3

35 Japan Red Cross Hospital

C5

36 Netherlands Consulate

C4

37 People’s Republic of China Osaka Consulate

B4

1 Sights

Central Osaka is commonly divided into Kita (North) and Minami (South). The

de facto dividing line is two rivers, Dōjimagawa and Tosabori-gawa, and the

island of Naka-no-shima. This area along the river is where the city’s historic

commercial district was established; Osaka-jō (Osaka Castle) sits about 1km

east of here. Tennōji is even further south than Minami. The bayside Tempōzan

neighbourhood and Universal Studios are west of the city centre. North of the

city centre, is Banpaku-kinen-kōen, a sprawling park and home to a couple of

worthwhile sights.

Kita (Umeda)

1 Sights

1 O-hatsu Ten-jin

D4

2 Umeda Sky Building

A2

4 Sleeping

3 Hilton Osaka

C4

4 Hotel Granvia Osaka

B3

5 Eating

5 Eki Marché

B3

6 Ganko Umeda Honten

C2

7 Kaiten Sushi Ganko

B3

8 Osaka Maru Building

C4

Robatayaki Isaribi

(see 6)

9 Yukari

D4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

10 Windows on the World

C4

7 Shopping

11 Hankyū Umeda Department Store

C3

King Kong Records

(see 8)

12 Maruzen & Junkudō Umeda

D1

8 Transport

13 JR Osaka Station Highway Bus Terminal

B3

14 Willer Bus Terminal

A2

1 Kita キタ

Kita (キタ; ‘north’) is the city’s centre of gravity by day in office buildings,

department stores and shopping complexes – plus the transit hubs of JR Osaka

and Hankyū Umeda Stations (and the multiple train and subway lines

converging here).

Umeda Sky Building

NOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 梅田スカイビル; %06-6440-3855; www.kuchu-teien.com; 1-1-88

Ōyodonaka, Kita-ku; adult/child ¥1500/700; hobservation decks 9.30am-10.30pm, last entry 10pm; dJR

Osaka, north central exit)

Osaka’s landmark Sky Building (1993) resembles a 40-storey, space-age Arc

de Triomphe. Twin towers are connected at the top by a ‘floating garden’

(really a garden-free observation deck), which was constructed on the ground

and then hoisted up. The 360-degree city views from here are breathtaking day

or night. Getting there is half the fun – an escalator in a see-through tube takes

you up the last five storeys (not for vertigo sufferers). The architect, Hara

Hiroshi, also designed Kyoto Station.

O-hatsu Ten-jin

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お初天神, Tsuyu-no-Ten-jinsha; %06-6311-0895; www.tuyutenjin.com; 2-5-4

Sonezaki, Kita-ku; h6am-midnight; bTanimachi line to Higashi-Umeda, exit 7, exit 15, dJR Osaka,

Sakurabashi exit) F

Hiding in plain sight amid the skyscrapers of Umeda, this 1300-year-old shrine

owes its fame to one of Japan’s best-known tragic plays (based on true events).

Star-crossed lovers O-hatsu, a prostitute, and Tokubei, a merchant’s apprentice,

committed double suicide here in 1703, to remain together forever in the

afterlife rather than live apart. The current shrine was constructed in 1957

(WWII destroyed the previous one); it’s popular with couples, who come to

pray for strength in love – and happier endings.

The shrine is just southeast of Ohatsutenjin-dōri arcade. There’s a flea

market here the first Friday of each month.

1 Naka-no-shima & Around

South of Kita, sandwiched between the rivers Dōjima-gawa and Tosabori-

gawa, the island of Naka-no-shima (中之島) is a pleasant oasis, with riverside

walkways, art museums, early 20th-century architecture and the park, Naka-

no-shima-kōen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中之島公園; Naka-no-shima, Kita-ku; bSakai-suji line to Kitahama, exit 26).

If you’re coming from Kyoto, the Keihan line runs direct to Yodoyabashi

Station; the island is a 15-minute walk south of JR Osaka Station.

o Osaka-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪城; Osaka Castle; www.osakacastle.net; 1-1 Osaka-jō, Chūō-ku;

grounds/castle keep free/¥600, combined with Osaka Museum of History ¥900; h9am-5pm, open later at

certain times in spring and summer; bChūō line to Tanimachi 4-chōme, exit 9, dJR Loop line to Osaka-

jō-kōen)

After unifying Japan in the late 16th century, General Toyotomi Hideyoshi

built this castle (1583) as a display of power, using, it’s said, the labour of

100,000 workers. Although the present structure is a 1931 concrete

reconstruction (refurbished in 1997), it’s nonetheless quite a sight, looming

dramatically over the surrounding park and moat. Inside is an excellent

collection of art, armour, and day-to-day implements related to the castle,

Hideyoshi and Osaka. An 8th-floor observation deck has 360-degree views.

Hideyoshi’s original granite structure was said to be impregnable, yet it was

destroyed in 1614 by the armies of Tokugawa Ieyasu (the founder of the

Tokugawa shogunate). Ieyasu had the castle rebuilt – using the latest

advancements to create terrifically imposing walls of enormous stones. The

largest stones are estimated to weigh over a 100 tonnes; some are engraved

with the crests of feudal lords.

Thirteen structures, including several turrets, remain from this 17th-century

reconstruction. Osaka citizens raised money themselves to rebuild the main

keep; in 1931 the new tower was revealed, with glittering gold-leaf tigers

stalking the eaves.

At night the castle is lit with floodlights (and looks like a ghostly structure

hovering above ground). Visit the lawns on a warm weekend and you might

catch local musicians staging casual shows. The castle and park are at their

colourful best (and most crowded) in the cherry-blossom and autumnfoliage

seasons.

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪市立東洋陶磁美術館; %06-6223-0055; www.moco.or.jp; 1-1-26

Naka-no-shima; adult/student/child ¥500/300/free, special exhibitions extra; h9.30am-5pm, closed Mon;

bMidō-suji line to Yodoyabashi, exit 1)

This museum has one of the world’s finest collections of Chinese and Korean

ceramics, with smaller galleries of Japanese ceramics and Chinese snuff

bottles. At any one time, approximately 400 of the gorgeous pieces from the

permanent collection are on display, and there are often special exhibits (with

an extra charge). The permanent collection has good English descriptions.

Osaka Museum of History

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪歴史博物館, Osaka Rekishi Hakubutsukan; www.mus-

his.city.osaka.jp; 4-1-32 Ōte-mae, Chūō-ku; adult/student/child ¥600/400/free, combined with Osaka-jō

¥900; h9.30am-5pm, closed Tue; bTanimachi or Chūō line to Tanimachi 4-chōme, exit 9)

Built above the ruins of Naniwa Palace (c 650), visible through the ground

floor, this museum tells Osaka’s story from the era of this early palace to the

early 20th century. There are enough English explanations and many of the

displays are highly visible, including a walk-through recreation of old city life.

You can also rent an Englishlanguage audio guide (¥200). There are great

views of Osaka-jō from the 10th floor.

Minami (Shinsaibashi & Namba)

1 Top Sights

1 Amerika-Mura

B2

2 Dōtombori

C3

1 Sights

3 Ebisu-bashi

C3

4 Hōzen-ji

C3

5 Hōzen-ji Yokochō

C3

6 Kani Dōraku Honten

C3

7 Kuromon Ichiba

D4

8 Nakaza Cuidaore Building

C3

9 Triangle Park

B2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

10 Tombori River Cruise

C3

4 Sleeping

11 Capsule Hotel Asahi Plaza Shinsaibashi

B2

12 Hotel the Flag

C1

13 Kamon Hotel Namba

D4

14 Kaneyoshi Ryokan

D3

15 Khaosan World Namba

A4

16 Osaka Hana Hostel

B2

17 Swissotel Nankai Osaka

C5

5 Eating

18 Chibō

C3

19 Daruma Dōtombori-ten

C3

20 Imai Honten

C3

21 Planet 3rd

B2

22 Shoubentango-tei

C3

23 Wanaka Amerika-mura-ten

B2

24 Wanaka Honten

C5

Za Ikaga

(see 23)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Circus

(see 16)

25 Folk Rock Bar Phoebe

B3

26 Jun-kissa American

C3

27 Misono Building

D4

28 Rock Rock

B1

3 Entertainment

29 Hokage

B2

30 Sumo Spring Tournament

B5

7 Shopping

31 Dōguya-suji Arcade

C5

32 Flake Records

A2

33 Namba Parks

C5

34 Shinsaibashi-suji Shōtengai

C2

35 Standard Books

B2

36 Time Bomb Records

B2

1 Minami ミナミ

Minami (ミナミ), which includes the neighbourhoods Namba, Shinsaibashi,

Dōtombori and Amerika-Mura, is the comic to Kita’s ‘straight man’. It’s here

that you’ll see the flashy neon signs and vibrant street life that you expect of

Osaka. By day, Minami is primarily a shopping district; after dark, restaurants,

bars, clubs and theatres take over.

Namba and Shinsaibashi subway stations, both on the Midō-suji line, are

convenient for this area.

o Dōtombori

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道頓堀; www.dotonbori.or.jp; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14) Highly photogenic Dōtombori is the city’s liveliest night spot and the centre of

the southern part of town. Its name comes from the 400-year-old canal,

Dōtombori-gawa, now lined with pedestrian walkways and with a riot of

illuminated billboards glittering off its waters. Don’t miss the famous Glico

running man sign. South of the canal is a pedestrianised street that has dozens

of restaurants vying for attention with the flashiest of signage.

For the best views, head to Ebisu-bashi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 戎橋), the bridge at the western end of the strip.

o Amerika-Mura

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アメリカ村, America Village, Ame-Mura; www.americamura.jp; Nishi-

Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

West of Midō-suji, Amerika-Mura is a compact enclave of hip, youth-focused

and offbeat shops, plus cafes, bars, tattoo and piercing parlours, nightclubs,

hair salons and a few discreet love hotels. In the middle is Triangle Park ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 三角公園, Sankaku-kōen), an all-concrete ‘park’ with benches for sitting and watching the fashion parade. Come nighttime, it’s a popular

gathering spot.

Around the neighbourhood, look for street lamps resembling stick-figure

people, some painted by artists; the Peace on Earth mural (1983), painted by

Osaka artist Kuroda Seitaro, and, of course, a mini Statue of Liberty.

Ame-Mura owes its name to shops that sprang up after WWII, selling

American goods such as Zippo lighters and T-shirts.

Kuromon Ichiba

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 黒門市場, Kuromon Market; www.kuromon.com; Nipponbashi, Chūō-ku; hmost shops 9am-6pm; bSakai-suji line to Nipponbashi, exit 10)

An Osaka landmark for over a century, this 600m-long market is in equal parts

a functioning market and a tourist attraction. Vendors selling fresh fish, meat,

produce and pickles attract chefs and local home cooks; shops offering

takeaway sushi or with grills set up (to cook the steaks, oysters, giant prawns

etc that they sell) cater to visitors – making the market excellent for grazing

and photo ops.

Hōzen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 法善寺; www.houzenji.jp; 1-2-16 Namba, Chūō-ku; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

This tiny temple hidden down a narrow alley houses a statue of Fudō Myō-ō (a

deity of esoteric Buddhism), covered in thick moss. It’s a favourite of people

employed in mizu shōbai (‘water trade’ – a euphemism for the sexually

charged night world), who pause before work to throw some water on the

statue.

Hōzen-ji Yokochō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 法善寺横丁), the alley filled with traditional restaurants and bars, runs between the temple and the Sennichi-mae

shopping arcade.

2 City Walk

Sights of Minami

START SHINSAIBASHI STATION

END SHINSAIBASHI STATION

LENGTH 2.5KM; 2½ HOURS

Head out just before dusk to see the daylight fade and the neon lights of Dōtombori take over. Start

with a stroll (or shuffle, depending on how crowded it is) down 1 Shinsaibashi-suji, Shinsaibashi’s

famous, and famously long, covered shōtengai (market street). Emerging from the arcade, you’ll

hit the bridge, 2 Ebisu-bashi, the most popular place for photos down the canal, Dōtombori-gawa.

Among the glowing signs that line the canal, look for the Glico running man.

Go left past 3 Kani Dōraku Honten ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the crab restaurant with the giant animated crab suspended over the entrance – another local landmark. This will take you to the

main Dōtombori strip, past restaurants and food stands, marked with evermore outlandish (and

literal) signage that takes the plastic food model concept to a whole new level – a giant octopus

indicates, for example, a tako-yaki (grilled octopus dumpling) stand. On your right look for the

drumming mechanical clown Kuidaore Tarō at 4 Nakaza Cuidaore Building ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 中座くいだおれビル; 1-7-21 Dōtombori), the mascot for the city’s eating culture.

Before the big cow, take a right down Sennichi-mae arcade. Turn again at the cobblestoned alley

with the wooden signboard for 5 Hōzen-ji Yokochō, and you’re suddenly in an older, quieter

Osaka, one charmingly lantern-lit in the evening. At the end, go left then through the temple

gateway to tiny 6 Hōzen-ji. Continue past the temple back around to the Dōtombori strip. Cross

Tazaemon-bashi and head left on the 7 Tombori River Walk – the promenade that runs alongside

the canal.

Cross Shinsaibashi-suji and then turn right, into 8 Amerika-Mura, a fun place to eat and drink in

the evenings. Grab some ika-yaki (grilled squid) at 9 Za Ikaga or tako-yaki at the branch of famed a Wanaka next door. Eat them here on the street or get ‘em to go and head to b Triangle Park – the

district’s popular local gathering spot. From here you can embark on an evening of bar-hopping in

Amerika-Mura, or make your way back to Shinsaibashi Station.

1 Tennōji 天保山

o Abeno Harukas

NOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; あべのハルカス; www.abenoharukas-300.jp; 1-1-43 Abeno-suji, Abeno-ku; observation deck: adult ¥1500; child from ¥500-700, under 4yr free; hobservation deck 9am-10pm;

bMidō-suji to Tennōji, dJR Loop line to Tennōji)

This César Pelli–designed tower, which opened in March 2014, is Japan’s

tallest building (300m, 60 storeys). The observatory on the 16th floor is free,

but admission is required for the highly recommended top-level Harukas 300

observation deck, which has incredible 360-degree views of the whole Kansai

region through windows that run several storeys high. There’s also an open-air

atrium. It houses Japan’s largest department store (Kintetsu, floors B2–14), the

Abeno Harukas Art Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; あべのハルカス美術館;

%06-4399-9050; www.aham.jp; 16th fl; admission varies by exhibition; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat

& Sun), a hotel, offices and restaurants.

The brave can take part in Edge of Harukas (¥1000) where you walk the

20-metrelong ledge while tethered to the building; bring your passport.

Although Abeno Harukas is Japan’s tallest building, the tallest structure is

Tokyo Sky Tree, at 634m.

Shin-Sekai

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新世界; Naniwa-ku; bMidō-suji line to Dōbutsuen-mae, exit 5) A century ago, Shin-Sekai (‘new world’) was home to an amusement park that defined

cutting edge. Now this entertainment district mixes down-at-heel with retro

cool. It’s centred on the crusty, trusty, 103m-high steel-frame tower Tsūten-

kaku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 通天閣; %06-6641-9555; www.tsutenkaku.co.jp; 1-18-6 Ebisu-

higashi; adult/child ¥700/400; h9am-9pm)

– built 1912, rebuilt 1956 – and surrounded by ancient pachinko and mahjong

parlours that draw some truly down-and-out characters. At the same time,

Shin-Sekai draws plenty of visitors for nostalgia and cheap eateries behind

over-the-top signage, especially for kushikatsu (deep-fried meat and vegetables

on skewers).

Sumiyoshi Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

(住吉大社; www.sumiyoshitaisha.net; 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi-ku; h6am-5pm Apr-Sep, from 6.30am Oct-Mar; jHankai line to Sumiyoshi-torii-mae, dNankai line to Sumiyoshi-taisha) F

Dedicated to Shintō deities of the sea and sea travel, this graceful shrine was

founded in the early 3rd century and is considered the headquarters for all

Sumiyoshi shrines in Japan. The buildings are faithful replicas of the ancient

originals, with a couple that date back to 1810, and the grounds are criss-

crossed by a tree- and lantern-lined waterway spanned by a bright orange drum

bridge. It’s a rare Shintō shrine that predates the influence of Chinese Buddhist

architectural styles.

The Hankai line tram from Tennōji stops right in front of the torii (Shintō

shrine gate).

Liberty Osaka

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪人権博物館, Osaka Human Rights Museum; %06-6561-5891;

www.liberty.or.jp; 3-6-36 Naniwa-nishi, Naniwa-ku; adult/student/child ¥500/300/200; h10am-4pm Wed-Fri, 1-5pm Sat, closed Sun, Mon & every 4th Fri & Sat; bMidō-suji line to Daikoku-chō, exit 5, dJR

Loop line to Imamiya)

Japan’s first human rights museum began in 1985 as an archive of documents

relating to the burakumin – the lowest caste under the old feudal system

(against whom discrimination continued into the modern age). The museum

has since grown to cover a variety of topics, from sexual politics to the

struggles of Japanese of Korean ancestry. Its portrait of contemporary Japan is

unflinching. English is provided via an audio guide and a booklet with

translations of some (though not all) exhibitions.

1 Tempōzan

Trudging through the urban morass of Kita or Minami, you could easily forget

that Osaka is actually a port city. Remind yourself with a trip to Tempōzan (天

保山), a bayside development with family-oriented attractions.

Osaka Aquarium Kaiyūkan

AQUARIUM

(海遊館; %06-6576-5501; www.kaiyukan.com; 1-1-10 Kaigan-dōri, Minato-ku; adult ¥2300, child

¥600-1200; h10am-8pm, last entry 7pm; bChuō line to Osaka-kō, exit 1)

Kaiyūkan is among Japan’s best aquariums. An 800m-plus walkway winds past

displays of sea life from around the Pacific ‘ring of fire’: Antarctic penguins,

coral-reef butterflyfish, unreasonably cute Arctic otters, Monterey Bay seals

and unearthly jellyfish. Most impressive is the ginormous central tank, housing

a whale shark, manta rays and thousands of other fish. Note there are also

captive dolphins here, which some visitors may not appreciate; there is

growing evidence that keeping cetaceans in captivity is harmful for the

animals.

There are good English descriptions, but the audio guide (¥500) gives more

detail. Expect lots of families and school groups.

The Osaka Kaiyu Ticket (www.kaiyukan.com/language/eng/kaiyu.html; adult/child

¥2550/1300) combines entry to the aquarium with one-day unlimited transport on

city subways and discounted admission to other sites. Purchase at any subway

station. Check the schedule online, as the aquarium closes for a couple of days

in January and February.

1 Banpaku-kinen-kōen

Banpaku-kinen-kōen, also called Senri Expo Park, was the site of the 1970

World Fair – the first such event to be held in Japan and a big moment for

Osaka. Little remains of the futuristic (for the time) installations; today it’s a

sprawling park containing the city’s best museum. Banpaku-kinen-kōen is a

stop on the Osaka Monorail; the Midō-suji and Tanimachi subway lines

intersect with the Osaka Monorail; so does the Hankyū Kyoto line. The sights

are a 10-minute walk from the monorail station.

o National Museum of Ethnology

MUSEUM

(国立民族学博物館; %06-6876-2151; www.minpaku.ac.jp; 10-1 Senri Expo Park, Suita;

adult/child ¥420/free; h10am-5pm, closed Wed; DOsaka Monorail to Banpaku-kinen-kōen)

This ambitious museum showcases the world’s cultures, presenting them as the

continuous (and tangled) strings that they are. There are plenty of traditional

masks, textiles and pottery, but also Ghanaian barbershop signboards,

Bollywood movie posters and even a Filipino jeepney. Don’t miss the music

room, where you can summon global street performances via a touch panel.

There are also exhibits on Okinawan history and Japan’s indigenous Ainu

culture. There’s English signage, but the audio guide gives more detail.

Tower of the Sun

SCULPTURE

(太陽の塔, Taiyō-no-tō; Senri Expo Park, Suita; DOsaka Monorail to Banpaku-kinen-kōen)

The 70m-tall Tower of the Sun was created by Japanese artist Okamoto Tarō

for Osaka’s Expo ‘70. While the curious three-faced creature (there’s one face

in the back) has been open to interpretation (and critique) for decades, there’s

no doubt that it has become the symbol of the expo and of the energy and

optimism that surrounded it.

Redhorse Osaka Ferris Wheel

FERRIS WHEEL

(http://osaka-wheel.com; Expo City; ticket ¥1000; h10am-11pm, last ride 10.40pm; DOsaka Monorail to Banpaku-kinen-kōen)

Japan’s tallest Ferris wheel (123m), and the fifth tallest in the world, opened in

2016 and offers sweeping views over Expo Park and the Tower of the Sun

statue. Not for acrophobes, the gondolas come with transparent floors to peer

down through on the 18-minute rotation.

1 Greater Osaka

Momofuku Andō Instant Ramen Museum

MUSEUM

(インスタントラーメン発明記念館; %072-752-3484; www.cupnoodles-museum.jp; 8-25

Masumi-cho, Ikeda; h9.30am-4.30pm, last entry 3.30pm, closed Tue; dHankyū line to Hankyū Ikeda,

east exit) F

From its humble invention in 1958 by Andō Momofuku (1910–2007; later

chair of Nissin Foods), instant rāmen has become a global business and one of

Japan’s most famous exports. Exhibits here illustrate the origin of Cup Noodles

and how they’re made; there’s also a ‘tunnel’ of Nissin products that showcases

a half-century of package design. The highlight, however, is getting to create

your own custom-blend Cup Noodles to take away (¥300), including

decorating the cup.

Get the free English-language audio guide (¥2000 deposit). Expect long

queues at weekends. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station. Take the east

exit and head down the stairs; go left and then right at the small tourist

information centre, and the museum will be on your right shortly.

OSAKA IN ONE DAY

Start with a visit to Osaka-jō; on the way, swing by Gout for pastries to eat on the castle lawns.

Take the subway or enjoy a stroll along the river to Naka-no-shima for coffee with river views at

Brooklyn Roasting Company.

Then head down to Namba and have a wander through Dōguya-suji Arcade, lined with

kitchenware shops, and Kuromon Ichiba, a food market. Sample Osaka speciality tako-yaki(octopus

dumplings) at Wanaka Honten for lunch.

As the lights dim, head over to Ebisubashi before joining the nightly throngs in neon-lit

Dōtombori. There are plenty of places to eat here, like okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at Chibo.

See where the night takes you in bar- and club-packed Amerika-Mura.

2 Activities

o Spa World

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スパワールド; %06-6631-0001; www.spaworld.co.jp; 3-4-24 Ebisu-

higashi, Naniwa-ku; day pass ¥1300; h10am-8.45am the next day; bMidō-suji line to Dōbutsu-en-mae,

exit 5, dJR Loop line to Shin-Imamiya)

This huge, sevenstorey onsen (hot-spring) complex contains dozens of options

from saunas to salt baths, styled after a mini-UN’s worth of nations. Gender-

separated ‘Asian’ and ‘European’ bathing zones (bathe in the buff, towels

provided) switch monthly. Swimsuits (rental ¥600, or BYO) are worn in

swimming pools and ganbanyoku (stone baths; additional ¥800 Monday to

Friday, ¥1000 Saturday and Sunday).

Many visitors stay and splash for hours; there are casual restaurants here and

even ‘relaxation rooms’ with armchairs where you can choose to spend the

night. Visitors with tattoos are not permitted.

Universal Studios Japan

AMUSEMENT PARK

(ユニバーサルスタジオジャパン, Universal City; %0570-200-606; www.usj.co.jp; 2-1-33

Sakura-jima, Konohana-ku; 1-day pass adult/child ¥7400/5100, 2-day pass ¥13,400/9000; hvaries

seasonally; dJR Yumesaki line to Universal City)

Modelled after sister parks in the US, ‘USJ’ bursts with Hollywood movie–

related rides, shows, shops and restaurants. Top billing goes to the ¥45 billion

(!) Wizarding World of Harry Potter, a painstakingly recreated Hogsmeade

Village (shop for magic wands, Gryffindor capes and butterbeer) plus the

‘Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey’ thrill ride through Hogwart’s School.

Wizarding World admission is by timed ticket. Leaflet maps and signage are

in English, though narrations and entertainment are in Japanese.

Long queues are common at the park’s major venues (1½ hours, or more, is

not unusual for the Harry Potter ride). To shorten waits, USJ offers a variety of

express passes that allow you to bypass queues, at an (often significant) extra

charge; check the website.

Rumoured to be in the works for 2020 is a Nintendo-themed attraction.

To get here, take the JR Loop line to Nishi-kujō Station, then switch to the

JR Yumesaki line for Universal Studios (total trip ¥180, 15 minutes).

Tombori River Cruise

CRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とんぼりリバークルーズ; %06-6441-0532;

www.ipponmatsu.co.jp/cruise/tombori.html; Don Quijote Bldg, 7-13 Sōemon-chō, Chūō-ku; adult/child

¥900/400; h1-9pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

One way to beat the crowds in Dōtombori is to hop on a boat. Tombori’s short,

20-minute trips past the neon signs run on the hour and the half-hour. Night

time is best, though slots fill up quickly; tickets go on sale at the pier an hour

before the first cruise of the day starts. Osaka Amazing Pass holders ride free.

Reception is on the 1st floor of the Don Quijote Bldg (identifiable by the

oddly shaped Ferris wheel on top).

T Tours

o Cycle Osaka

CYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080-5325-8975; www.cycleosaka.com; 2-12-1 Sagisu, Fukushima-ku;

half-/full-day tours ¥5000/10,000; dJR Loop line to Fukushima)

English-speaking guides lead well-organised tours to sights both well known

and less well known, along the river banks and through the markets. The food

route (¥8000) is particularly recommended. Fees include bicycle and helmet

rental, water and food. It also rents out bikes (¥1500 per day).

Ninja Food Tours

FOOD

(www.ninjafoodtours.com; tours ¥9500)

Runs enjoyable evening food tours (in English) stopping in at local eateries to

sample some of the city’s specialities. The price includes dinner and two

drinks.

Ofune Camome

CRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 御舟かもめ; %050-3736-6333; www.ofune-camome.net; cruises ¥2100-

4500, child half-price; bTanimachi line to Temmabashi, exit 18)

This small wooden boat, with a few beanbags on the prow, cruises up and

down the Yodogawa alongside Naka-no-shima; its small size means that,

unless the tide is really high, it can go places that larger boats can’t. The

captain speaks some English and explains the significance of the buildings and

bridges. Book at least three days in advance.

Opt for a breakfast cruise (¥3200) if you can; the lighting is best in the

morning and the breakfast of organic farm-fresh fruits and homemade rice

bread is delicious. Most cruises depart from the Hachikenya-hama Pier (八軒

家浜船着場) near Tenma-bashi.

z Festivals & Events

o Tenjin Matsuri

CULTURAL

(天神祭; www.tenjinmatsuri.com; h24 & 25 Jul)

This is one of Japan’s three biggest festivals and is dedicated to Sugawara

Michizane, the Japanese deity of scholarship and learning. Try to make the

second day, when processions of mikoshi (portable shrines) and people in

traditional attire start at Osaka Tenman-gū (大阪天満宮; MAP ; %06-6353-0025;

www.tenjinsan.com; 2-1-8 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku; h9am-5pm; bTanimachi line to Minami-Morimachi, exit 4b) and end up in hundreds of boats on the Ō-kawa. There’s a huge

fireworks display as night falls.

Summer Sonic

MUSIC

(www.summersonic.com; Maishima Sonic Park; 1-day/2-day ticket ¥14,500/25,500; hAug) Held over two days in August, this annual music festival attracts an impressive

line-up of international and Japanese bands. Past acts include Teenage Fanclub,

Weezer, Radiohead, Beyonce, Beat Crusaders and the Pixies.

Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri

CULTURAL

(岸和田だんじり祭; hSep)

Osaka’s wildest festival, held over the 3rd weekend in September, is a kind of

running of the bulls except with danjiri (festival floats), many weighing over

3000kg. The danjiri are hauled through the streets by hundreds of people using

ropes – take care and stand back. Most of the action takes place on the second

day.

The best place to see it is west of Kishiwada Station on the Nankai main line

(from Nankai Station).

4 Sleeping

Check websites for discounted rates; expect prices to rise by 10% to 20% on

weekends. Base yourself in Minami for access to a larger selection of bars,

restaurants and shops, or in Kita for fast access to long-distance transport.

4 Kita

U-en

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 由苑; %06-7503-4394; www.hostelosaka.com; 2-9-23 Fukushima, Fukushima-ku; dm/d from ¥2800/6200; naW; dJR Loop line to Fukushima)

Inside a restored, century-old townhouse down a quiet lane, U-en has seven

upstairs rooms with a variety of bedding – futons and tatami mats in private

rooms and bunks or capsules (with curtains, lockers and shelves) in dorms. It’s

beautifully done, though pretty touches like shōji (sliding rice-paper doors)

mean that sound does travel. Staff speak English; bicycle rental available (¥500

per day).

All of this sits atop an attractive cafe, where you can get coffee (from ¥400)

and croissants in the morning (or beer in the evening).

Hilton Osaka

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ヒルトン大阪; %06-6347-7111; http://osaka.hilton.com; 1-8-8 Umeda, Kita-ku; d/tw from ¥27,000; naiWs; bYotsubashi line to Nishi-Umeda, exit 6, dJR Osaka, south central

exit)

The Hilton has spacious rooms with king-sized beds and lovely touches such as

shoji window screens. Staff speak English and are at home with foreign guests.

Facilities include a small fitness centre with a 15m pool and a bar (ウィン

ドーズオンザワールド; 35th flh5.30pm-12.30am Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat & Sun) with city

views. The hotel is across from JR Osaka Station’s southern side.

Hotel Granvia Osaka

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルグランヴィア大阪; %06-6344-1235;

www.hotelgranviaosaka.jp; 3-1-1 Umeda, Kita-ku; s/d/tw from ¥13,600/20,600/20,600; naiW; dJR

Osaka, south central exit)

Above JR Osaka Station, this hotel’s 700-plus rooms (on floors 21 to 27) run

the gamut from could-use-an-update to futuristic luxe (on the top-level

‘Granvia’ floor). A glass roof over the tracks cuts out virtually all train noise.

Request an outward-facing room for skyline views.

OSAKA ACCOMMODATION TAX

The following accommodation tax is charged per person per night:

A ¥100 per person per night for lodgings that charge a rate of ¥10,000 to 14,999 per person per

night

A ¥200 for lodgings that charge ¥15,000 to 19,999 per person per night

A ¥300 for lodgings that charge more than ¥20,000 per person per night

It is likely that accommodations will charge you these fees in addition to the stated nightly rates.

4 Naka-no-shima & Around

Hotel Cordia

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6449-2030; www.cordia-osaka.com; 1-3-25 Edobori, Nishi-ku; s/d/tw/family

¥13,500/14,800/16,500/22,000; naW; bYotsubashi line to Higobashi, exit 3)

Conveniently located a short hop from Higobashi Station, close to the river and

Naka-no-shima’s sights, and a 20-minute walk from the Umeda area, Cordia is

a great-value hotel with a boutique feel. Rooms slot into the cool and

contemporary category with blonde-wood and rainfall showers. Staff go out of

their way to help.

o Conrad Osaka

LUXURY HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6222-0111; www.conradhotels3.hilton.com; 3-2-4 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku; r from ¥52,000-116,000; naWs; bYotsubashi line to Higobashi, exit 2)

Opened in 2017, the Conrad has injected some much-needed contemporary

glamour into Osaka’s hotel scene. Occupying floors 33 to 40 of the Festival

Tower West skyscraper in Naka-no-shima, there are gobsmacking views

throughout, from the eye-popping artwork-strewn lobby to the spacious, urban-

chic rooms and striking pool. Plenty of dining options, a gym, a spa and

exemplary service round it off.

4 Minami

o Hostel 64 Osaka

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6556-6586; www.hostel64.com; 3-11-20 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku; dm/d from

¥3000/8000; naiW; bChuō line to Awaza, exit 2)

Osaka’s most stylish hostel is inside a 1960s office building suitably kitted out

with vintage furniture. There are Japanese- and Western-style private rooms

(all with shared bathrooms), a small dorm with beds separated by screens (that

feel more like semi-private rooms) and a lounge and cafebar. Staff are friendly

and knowledgable. It’s understandably popular so book at least four months in

advance.

There is no elevator. It’s in a quiet neighbourhood a 20-minute walk

northwest of Shinsaibashi. From the station, exit right, turn right at the third

stoplight and make the first left. The hostel produces a handy bilingual

Japanese–English map covering Osaka’s hippest ‘hoods.

Kamon Hotel Namba

HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カモンホテル; %06-6632-3520; www.kamon-hotel.com; 3-3-3 Sennichi-

mae, Chūō-ku; r from ¥5000; naW; bSakai-suji line to Nipponbashi, exit 5)

Close to all the Dōtombori and Namba nightlife action, but tucked away in a

quiet street, Kamon is a great choice for penny-pinchers. Some rooms are a

little scruffy, but they are comfortable, and stylish decor brightens things up.

There’s a modern udon restaurant downstairs.

Hostel Mitsuwaya

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホステルみつわ屋; %06-6711-0818; www.dreaminhostels.com; 2-5-15

Kawarayamachi, Chūō-ku; dm/q from ¥3200/16,000; naW; bTanimachi line to Tanimachi 9-chōme, exit

1)

Opposite an elementary school, Mitsuwaya has wooden bunk dorms with lots

of power points, shelves, a storage locker and privacy curtains. It’s full of

natural light and has a minimalist Scandinavian feel. There’s a shared kitchen

and lounge, rooftop terrace and a 24-hour reception desk staffed by friendly

English-speakers. The surrounding neighbourhood has many shops and cafes

housed in traditional buildings.

Osaka Hana Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪花宿; %06-6281-8786; http://osaka.hanahostel.com; 1-8-4 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; dm/tw/tr from ¥2200/6800/10,200; naiW; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit

7)

This great budget option in the heart of Amerika-Mura has a variety of rooms.

Besides four-bed and six-bed dorms, there are private Japanese- and Western-

style rooms, some with ensuites and kitchenettes. Shared facilities include two

kitchen-lounge areas and coin-operated laundry machines. It’s expertly

managed by a helpful team of well-travelled, English-speaking staff. The only

downside is some street noise.

The downstairs sake bar is a great place to socialise.

Khaosan World Namba

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カオサンワールドなんば; %06-6632-7373; http://khaosan-

tokyo.com/en/namba;1-2-13 Motomachi, Naniwa-ku; dm/d/q from ¥2200/10,000/17,000; naW; bMidōsuji line to Namba, exit 13)

From the reliable Khaosan chain, this large hostel is run like an efficient hotel

by a bevy of multilingual staff. The bunks are big and the more expensive six-

bed rooms have showers. It also has private double and family rooms, and a

spotless communal kitchen. Cultural events are held regularly and there’s a

ground-floor bar that encourages a social vibe.

Capsule Hotel Asahi Plaza Shinsaibashi

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カプセルホテル朝日プラザ心斎橋; %06-6213-1991;

www.asahiplaza.co.jp; 2-12-22 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; capsule from ¥3000; naW; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

This is a classic capsule hotel, with over 400 pods on separate floors for men

and women as well as communal baths, conveniently located in Ame-Mura.

They’re quite used to foreign guests, so this is a good choice for capsule-hotel

novices. Despite the capsules being nonsmoking there is a lingering smell of

cigarette smoke through the building.

Luggage that doesn’t fit in the lockers provided can be held at the front desk

(¥200 per day).

Hotel the Flag

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6121-8111; www.hoteltheflag.jp; 1-18-30 Higashi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; standard/deluxe from ¥12,000/22,000; naW; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi)

This hip design hotel ticks many boxes for those looking for a smart modern

stay close to Shinsaibashi’s shopping and nightlife. Rooms are stylish with a

minimalist feel; ‘deluxe’ doubles are a tad bigger than standard options and

come with a bath. Helpful staff are multilingual and there’s an on-site

library/lounge, a breakfast dining room and a sleek laundry.

Kaneyoshi Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かねよし旅館; %06-6211-6337; www.kaneyosi.jp; 3-12 Sōemon-chō, Chūō-ku; s/d/tr/q from ¥6480/ 11,880/ 16,200/ 21,600; aiW; bSennichimae line to Nipponbashi, exit 2)

In business for nearly a century right by Dōtombori, Kaneyoshi’s current

(1980s) building feels a bit dated, but it’s offset by eager-to-please staff, clean,

comfy tatami (tightly woven floor matting) rooms with private bathrooms and

a simple common bath on the top (6th) floor. Although it’s in the nightlife

district, doors close at 1am. Riverside rooms are excellent value.

Swissotel Nankai Osaka

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スイスホテル南海大阪; %06-6646-1111;

www.swissotel.com/hotels/nankai-osaka; 5-1-60 Namba, Chūō-ku; r from ¥31,000; naiW; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 4)

Minami’s most elegant hotel, with stunning views and direct connections to

KIX airport via Nankai line trains that depart from Namba Station below the

hotel. Rooms are spacious and well-appointed, the service is excellent and

there’s also a gym. In addition to the in-house restaurants, there are all the

dining options in Namba Parks, part of the same station complex.

4 Tennōji

Pax Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6537-7090; www.thepax.jp; 1-20-5 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa-ku; dm from

¥2500; aW; bMidō-suji line to Dōbutsuen-mae, exit 5)

Housed in an atmospheric old wooden rice-store building, Pax Hostel is hidden

away from the buzzing neon in Shin-Sekai. Dorms have coloured wooden bunk

beds, a privacy curtain, a light, a charger and a security box. The downstairs

cafe-record store is a chilled place to hang out, and serves great coffee and

bahn mi (Vietnamese bagette).

There’s bicycle hire (¥500 per day) too.

4 Greater Osaka

Shin-Osaka Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新大阪ユースホステル; %06-6370-5427; www.osaka-yha.or.jp/shin-

osaka-eng; Koko Plaza, 1-13-13 Higashi-Nakajima, Higashi-Yodogawa-ku; dm/tw ¥3500/9400; naiW; dJR Shin-Osaka, east exit)

Five minutes southeast of Shin-Osaka Station, this efficiently run hostel sits on

the top floors of a contemporary, 10-storey tower with great views across the

city. Rooms and common areas are big, well equipped and spotless; private

rooms are good value. There’s a daytime lockout (you can still use the lounge),

a midnight curfew and breakfast for ¥500.

Hotel Nikkō Kansai Airport

HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテル日航関西空港; %072-455-1111; www.nikkokix.com; Senshū Kūkō Kita 1, Izumisano-

shi, Osaka-fu; s/d from ¥12,000/16,000; iWs; dJR Haruka Airport Express to Kansai Airport)

The excellent Hotel Nikkō Kansai Airport is connected to the main terminal

building by a pedestrian bridge (you can even bring your luggage trolleys right

to your room). The rooms here range from simple ‘economy class’ to ‘first-

class’ suites; all are comfortable enough for a brief stay.

5 Eating

5 Kita

There are innumerable options just within Osaka and Umeda stations, in the

passages below ground and in the attached shopping centres. On the southwest

side of JR Osaka Station, close to Daimaru and Hotel Granvia, look for food

hall Eki Marché ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; エキマルシェ大阪; %06-4799-3828;

www.ekimaru.com; h10am-10pm; dJR Osaka, Sakurabashi exit); Kaiten Sushi Ganko is here.

South of the station (close to Higashi Umeda Station), Ohatsutenjin-dōri

(お初天神通り) has lots of cheap local options, as does Hankyū Higashi-dōri

(阪急東通り), which runs east of Hankyū Umeda Station. Both get lively in

the evenings, with commuters grabbing food on their way home.

Kaiten Sushi Ganko

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 回転寿司がんこ; %06-4799-6811; Eki Maré, Osaka Station City, Kita-ku; plates ¥130-735; h11am-11pm; dJR Osaka, Sakurabashi exit)

This reliable kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi) shop is a popular choice for

many a hungry commuter, meaning the two whirring tracks of plates are

continuously restocked with fresh options. It can get crowded at meal times.

It’s inside JR Osaka’s Eki Marché food court.

There are also branches in Shin-Osaka Station and Abeno Harukas.

Ganko Umeda Honten

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; がんこ梅田本店; %06-6376-2001; www.gankofood.co.jp; 1-5-11 Shibata, Kita-ku; meals ¥780-5000; h11.30am-2.30am Mon-Sat, to 11.30pm Sun; dHankyū Umeda)

At the main branch of this Osaka institution, a large dining hall serves a wide

variety of set-course meals and sushi (à la carte or in sets), reasonably priced

and made with traditional, quality ingredients. It’s on the street along the

western side of Hankyū Umeda Station. Look for the logo of the guy wearing a

headband.

Robatayaki Isaribi

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 炉ばた焼き漁火; %06-6373-2969; www.rikimaru-

group.com/shop/isaribi.html; 1-5-12 Shibata, Kita-ku; dishes ¥300; h5-11pm; bMidō-suji line to Umeda,

exit 2, dHankyū Umeda)

Head downstairs to this spirited, friendly izakaya for standards such as

skewered meats, seafood, veggies fresh off the grill and giant pieces of tori no

karaage (fried chicken). The best seats are at semicircular counters, where your

chef will serve you using a very, very long paddle.

It’s on the street along the western side of Hankyū Umeda Station, to the left

of the signage featuring a guy wearing a headband, and has white door

curtains.

Yukari

OKONOMIYAKI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゆかり; %06-6311-0214; www.yukarichan.co.jp; 2-14-13 Sōnezaki, Kita-ku;

okonomiyaki ¥800-1450; h11am-1am; v; bTanimachi line to Higashi-Umeda, exit 4, dJR Osaka, south

central exit)

This popular restaurant in the Ohatsutenjin-dōri arcade serves up that great

Osaka favourite, okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes), cooked on a griddle before

you. There’s lots to choose from on the picture menu, including veg options,

but the tokusen mikkusu yaki (mixed okonomiyaki with fried pork, shrimp and

squid) is a classic. Look for red-and-white signage out front.

5 Naka-no-shima & Around

Gout

BAKERY

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グウ; %06-6585-0833; 1-1-10 Honmachi, Chūō-ku; bread from ¥200; h7.30am-8pm, closed Thu; bTanimachi line to Tanimachi 4-chōme, exit 4)

One of Osaka’s best bakeries, Gout (pronounced ‘goo’, as in French) sells

baguettes, pastries, croissants, sandwiches and coffee to take away or eat in.

It’s perfect for picking up picnic supplies before heading to nearby Osaka-jō.

o Endo Sushi

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゑんどう寿司; www.endo-sushi.com/english.html; 1-1-86 Noda, Fukushima-ku; sushi set ¥1150; h5am-2pm, closed Sun; bSennichimae line to Tamagawa, exit 3, dJR

Loop line to Noda)

Trek out to Osaka’s fish market to taste the exceptionally fresh sushi at cosy

Endo, in business for over a century. You can choose from four different sushi

sets of five pieces each; we recommend starting your day right with a sushi

breakfast. It’s in building three to the left of the market entrance where the

large clock is.

Staff speak some English and it’s cash only.

o Yoshino Sushi

SUSHI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉野鯗; %06-6231-7181; www.yoshinosushi.co.jp; 3-4-14 Awaji-machi, Chūō-ku; lunch from ¥2700; h11am-1.30pm Mon-Fri; bMidō-suji line to Honmachi, exit 1)

In business since 1841, Yoshino specialises in Osaka-style sushi, which is

hako-sushi (‘pressed sushi’). This older version of the dish (compared to the

newer, hand-pressed Tokyo-style nigirisushi) is formed by a wooden mould,

resulting in Mondrian-esque cubes of spongy omelette, soy-braised shiitake

mushrooms, smokey eel and vinegar-marinated fish on rice. Reservations

recommended.

On the ground floor, the shop sells reasonably priced takeaway boxes (less

than ¥2000).

o Yotaro Honten

TEMPURA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 与太呂本店; %06-6231-5561; 2-3-14 Kōraibashi, Chūō-ku; tempura set

¥2500, sea bream rice ¥4300; h11am-1pm & 5-7pm, closed Thu; bSakaisuji line to Kitahama)

This two-Michelin-starred restaurant specialises in exceptionally light and

delectable tempura served at the counter, where you can watch the chefs, or in

private rooms. The tasty sea bream dish serves two to three people and the

filling tempura sets are fantastic value. Look for the black-and-white sign and

black slatted bars across the windows. Reserve in advance through your hotel.

DON’T MISS

OSAKA SPECIALITIES

Okonomiyaki Thick, savoury pancakes filled with shredded cabbage and your choice of meat,

seafood, vegetables and more (the name means ‘cook as you like’), often prepared on a teppan

(steel plate) set into your table. Slice off a wedge using tiny trowels called kote, and – warning –

allow it to cool a bit before taking that first bite. Try it at Chibō in Dōtombori or Yukari in Umeda.

Tako-yaki Doughy dumplings stuffed with octopus ( tako in Japanese) grilled in specially made

moulds and often sold as street food. Nibble carefully first as the centre can be molten hot. Try it at

Wanaka Honten in Namba.

Kushikatsu Yakitori refers to skewers of grilled meat, seafood and/or vegetables; kushikatsu is the same ingredients crumbed, deep-fried and served with a savoury dipping sauce (double-dipping is

a serious no-no). Goes very well with beer. The Shin-Sekai neighbourhood is particularly famed

for kushikatsu restaurants. Try Ganso Kushikatsu Daruma Honten.

Kaiten-sushi This Osaka invention (from the 1950s) goes by many names in English: conveyor-belt

sushi, sushi-go-round or sushi train. It’s all the same – plates of sushi that run past you along a belt

built into the counter (you can also order off the menu). Try it at at Kaiten Sushi Ganko in JR

Osaka Station or at the branch in Abeno Harukas.

Kappō-ryōri Osaka’s take on high-end dining, with seasonal ingredients and meticulous

presentation of kaiseki (traditional haute cuisine) but without the formality. Diners sit at the

counter, chatting with the chef who hands over the dishes as they’re finished. Despite the laid-back

vibe these restaurants can be frightfully expensive; try Shoubentango-tei, which is reasonable.

5 Minami

Lively Dōtombori has lots of street-food vendors and restaurants. As this area

attracts a lot of tourists, English menus and English-speaking staff are

common. Dōtombori can get extremely crowded in the evenings and you’ll

have to queue at the more popular spots.

Lots of Japanese chain restaurants can be found on Shinsaibashi-suji, while

Ame-Mura has cheap izakaya, snack vendors and cafes popular with a young

(though not exclusively so) crowd. In Namba, the Namba Parks mall has a

good spread of restaurants as well.

o Wanaka Honten

STREET FOOD

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; わなか本店; %06-6631-0127; http://takoyaki-wanaka.com; 11-19 Sennichimae, Chūō-ku; tako-yaki per 8 from ¥450; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat & Sun; bMidō-suji

line to Namba, exit 4)

This famous tako-yaki stand, just north of Dōguya-suji arcade, uses custom

copper hotplates (instead of cast iron) to make dumplings that are crisper than

usual (but still runny inside). There’s a picture menu and tables and chairs in

the back. One popular dish to try is tako-sen – two dumplings sandwiched

between sembei (rice crackers).

There’s also a convenient branch in Ame-Mura (わなかアメリカ村店;

MAP ; %06-6211-3304; 2-12-8 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; tako-yaki per 8 from ¥450; h10am-10pm

Mon-Fri, 10.30am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7).

Planet 3rd

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; プラネットサード心斎橋店; %06-6282-5277; 1-5-24 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; breakfast buffet ¥1080, lunch & dinner mains from ¥880; h7am-midnight; aW;

bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

This large, comfortable cafe in Ame-Mura serves good coffee, drinks and

eclectic light meals, including pastas, sandwiches, salads and rice bowls. It has

trendy decor with big windows for peoplewatching and a few iPads for guest

use.

Za Ikaga

STREET FOOD

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・イカが; %06-6212-0147; www.ikayaki.jp; 2-12-8 Nishi-Shinsaibashi,

Chūō-ku; dishes from ¥350; h6pm-late, closed Wed; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

The signature dish at this small food stand with a picture menu is ika-yaki –

grilled squid, served here in a thin crêpe splattered with egg, mayonaise and

savoury, okonomiyaki-style sauce. There are a few seats inside at the counter

and a few folding chairs on the street (perfect for watching the comings and

goings in Amerika-Mura).

o Chibō

OKONOMIYAKI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 千房; %06-6212-2211; www.chibo.com; 1-5-5 Dōtombori, Chūō-ku; mains

¥885-1675; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

One of Osaka’s most famous okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) restaurants,

Chibō almost always has a queue, but it moves fast because there’s seating on

multiple floors (though you might want to hold out for the coveted tables

overlooking Dōtombori canal). Try the house special Dōtombori yaki, with

pork, beef, squid, shrimp and cheese (¥1650). Last orders are an hour before

closing.

o Imai Honten

UDON

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 今井本店; %06-6211-0319; www.d-imai.com; 1-7-22 Dōtombori, Chūō-ku; dishes from ¥800; h11am-10pm, closed Wed; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

Step into an oasis of calm amid Dōtombori’s chaos to be welcomed by staff at

one of the area’s oldest and mostrevered udon specialists. Try kitsune udon –

noodles topped with soup-soaked slices of fried tofu. Look for the traditional

exterior and the willow tree outside.

o Shoubentango-tei

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 正弁丹吾亭; %06-6211-3208; 1-7-12 Dōtombori, Chūō-ku; dinner course

¥3780-10,800; h5-10pm; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

That this kappō-ryōri (Osaka-style haute cuisine) restaurant isn’t more

expensive is surprising considering its pedigree: established over 100 years

ago, it was a literati hangout in the early 20th century. Even the cheapest

course, which includes five dishes decided that day by the chef, tastes – and

looks! – like a luxurious treat; reservations are necessary for all but the

cheapest course.

The restaurant is on Hōzen-ji Yokochō.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

URA-NAMBA

Ura-Namba (literally ‘behind Namba’) is an unofficial district made up of clusters of small

restaurants and bars in the shadow of Nankai Namba Station. It’s becoming an increasingly cool

place to hang out in. A good place to start is the Misono Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 味

園ビル; 2-3-9 Sennichi-mae, Chūō-ku; h6pm-late; bSakai-suji line to Nipponbashi, exit 5), a once

grand (and now wilting) structure, which has dozens of bars on the 2nd floor.

5 Tennōji

o Ganso Kushikatsu Daruma Honten

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 元祖串かつ だるま本店; %06-6645-7056; www.kushikatu-

daruma.com; 2-3-9 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa-ku; skewers ¥120-240; h11am-10.30pm; bMidōsuji line to

Dōbutsuen-mae, exit 5)

Daruma has branches around town, but for many Japanese a pilgrimage to the

original shop in Shin-sekai – opened in 1929 and said to be the birthplace of

kushikatsu – is a necessary part of any visit to Osaka. There’s room for maybe

a dozen around the small counter. Start with the eight-piece assortment of

perfectly crisp skewers.

There’s a shop in Dōtombori ( MAP ; %06-6213-8101; 1-6-4 Dōtombori, Chūō-ku; skewers

¥120-230; h11.30am-10.30pm; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14), but the queue can be long.

Yokozuna

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 横綱; %06-6631-4527; 2-4-11 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa-ku; kushikatsu ¥100-210, mains ¥780-1980; h10am-11pm; bMidōsuji line to Dōbutsuen-mae, exit 5)

This lively local chain has a huge line-up of kushikatsu, from staples including

renkon (lotus root) and mochi (rice cake) to unconventional options like

chocolate banana. They’re also known for their huge-portion versions of

classic dishes (like gyōza) that could feed a family. Yokozuna couldn’t be

easier to find: look for the giant placards painted with sumo wrestlers.

If this location is full, two others with the same menu are just steps away,

including a 24-hour branch. The staff, who usually speak some English, will

direct you.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Osakans love to let loose: the city is teeming with izakaya, bars and nightclubs.

6 Naka-no-shima & Honmachi

o Brooklyn Roasting Company

COFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6125-5740; www.brooklynroasting.jp; 1-16 Kitahama, Chūō-ku; coffee from

¥350; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; W; bSakaisuji line to Kitahama, exit 2)

With its worn leather couches, big wooden communal table and industrial

fittings, this is a little slice of Brooklyn in Osaka and the perfect pit stop while

exploring Naka-no-shima. Sip well-crafted coffee (almond and soy milk

available, too) on the wide riverside terrace and watch the boats go by. If

hunger strikes, there’s a small selection of donuts and pastries.

o Beer Belly

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6441-0717; www.beerbelly.jp/tosabori; 1-1-31 Tosabori, Nishi-ku; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, 3-11pm Sat, 3-9pm Sun; bYotsubashi line to Higobashi, exit 3)

Beer Belly is run by Osaka’s best microbrewery, Minoh Beer, and features

Minoh’s award-winning classics and seasonal offerings (pints from ¥930). Pick

up a copy of Osaka’s Craft Beer Map here to further your local beer

adventures. From the subway exit, double back and take the road that curves

behind the APA Hotel.

There is another branch ( MAP ; %06-6353-5005; www.beerbelly.jp; 7-4 Ikeda-chō, Kita-ku; half pint/full pint from ¥520/830; h3pm-midnight; dJR Osaka Loop Line to Temma) in Tenma.

40 Sky Bar & Lounge

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6222-0111; www.conradhotels3.hilton.com; 3-2-4 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Conrad Osaka; cover ¥1400 after 8.30pm; h10am-midnight; bYotsubashi line to Higobashi, exit 2)

If heights aren’t your thing, you’ll need a stiff drink once you’ve peered down

over the city from the 40th floor at this ultrasuave hotel bar. Service is

impeccable and there’s a good range of food and bar snacks to go with well-

made cocktails.

6 Minami

Visit Minami on a Friday night and you might think there’s one bar for every

resident – including izakaya, Irish pubs and cocktail lounges (as well as hostess

and host bars, where the servers are flirtatious women and men, and the drinks

are very pricey). Friday and Saturday nights are the big nights out (especially

for clubs) but you’ll usually have company on weeknights too. The English-

speaking crowd tends to congregate in Amerika-Mura, which has lots of small,

cheap bars that open onto the street; the nightclubs are mostly here too.

o Circus

CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6241-3822; www.circus-osaka.com; 2nd fl, 1-8-16 Nishi-Shinsaibashi,

Chūō-ku; entry ¥1000-2500; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

This small club is the heart of Osaka’s underground electronic scene. The

dance floor is nonsmoking. It’s open on Friday and Saturday nights and

sometimes during the week. Look up for the small sign in English and bring

photo ID.

Jun-kissa American

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 純喫茶アメリカン; %06-6211-2100; 1-7-4 Dōtombori, Chūō-ku; h9am-11pm; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 15)

With its 1940s interior intact and waitresses in long skirts, American is a

classic jun-kissa – a shop from the first wave of cafes to open in Japan during

the post-WWII American occupation. Come before 11am for a ‘morning set’

(¥620) of pillowy buttered toast, a hard-boiled egg and coffee. Look for the

chrome sign out front.

Rock Rock

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ロックロック; www.rockrock.co.jp; 3rd fl, Shinsaibashi Atrium Bldg, 1-8-1 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; h7pm-5am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit

7)

Serving the music-loving community since 1995, Rock Rock has a history of

hosting after-parties for international acts and attracting celeb visitors. Regular

events with a modest cover charge (usually ¥1500, including one drink ticket)

showcase some of Osaka’s finest rock DJs (and famous guests).

Mel Coffee Roasters

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; メル・コーヒー・ロースター ズ; %06-4394-8177;

https://melcoffee.stores.jp; 1-20-4 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku; coffee from ¥350; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; bYotsubashi line to Yotsubashi, exit 2)

This tiny takeaway stand – the vintage Probat roaster takes up half of it – raised

the bar for coffee in Osaka when it opened in 2016. The owner speaks good

English and will happily discuss the taste profiles of the various single-origin

hand-pours on offer.

Folk Rock Bar Phoebe

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 108 Dōtombori Heights, 2-7-22 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; h7pm-2am; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

Crammed with vinyl and knick-knacks, Phoebe looks like a drinks counter

operated out of an old hippie’s storage closet (we mean that in a good way).

The friendly owner spins folk-rock tunes on the record player, mixes good

cocktails and serves tasty food. There’s an English sign out front.

LGBTIQ+ OSAKA

Dōyama-chō (堂山町), a district just east of JR Osaka Station, is where gay and lesbian bars are

clustered. It’s the second-largest scene in the country, after Tokyo’s Shinjuku-nichōme. Frenz

Frenzy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6311-1386; www.frenz-frenzy.website; 18-14

Kamiyama-chō, Kita-ku; h8pm-1am; bTanimachi line to Higashi-Umeda, exit 3) calls itself a

‘rainbow haven’ and it means that literally: the whole place is awash in colour (including the front

door, thankfully, because otherwise it would be impossible to find). Run by long-time expat Sari-

chan, this is a welcoming first port of call for gay and lesbian travellers. There’s no cover and

drinks start at ¥500. It’s on the ground floor of a building with other bars, set back from the road.

3 Entertainment

Osaka’s lack of conservatism and boisterous sensibilities are evident in its

underground music scene, which leans heavily towards raucous rock ‘n’ roll,

punk, indie and experimental noise. The city has introduced the world to bands

including Shonen Knife and the Boredoms, and it’s home to a number of

character-filled venues where you can catch up-and-coming and established

bands.

o Namba Bears

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 難波ベアーズ; %06-6649-5564; http://namba-bears.main.jp; 3-14-5

Namba-naka, Naniwa-ku; hhours vary; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 4)

For going on three decades this has been the place to hear underground music

live in Osaka. It’s a small, bare-concrete, smokey space – well suited to the

punk, rock and indie bands that play here. In keeping with the alternative spirit,

you can bring in your own beer. Most shows start at 7pm; tickets usually cost

¥2000 to ¥2500.

Fandango

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6308-1621; www.fandango-go.com; 1-17-27 Juso-Honmachi, Yodogawa-ku; tickets ¥2000-3000; dHankyū line to Juso)

This much-loved live house is an Osaka institution and favours Japanese punk

rock and experimental noise bands; check the website for the gig schedule.

Admission usually includes one free drink. It’s two stops on the Hankyū local

line from Umeda to Juso station.

Hokage

LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 火影; %06-6211-2855; www.musicbarhokage.net; Basement fl, 2-9-36 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; tickets around ¥1500; hhours vary; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

Looking like an office with the inner walls ripped out (which is entirely likely),

Hokage seems to be made for its rock, punk and noise bands. It’s a small space,

where the band might take up half the room, and a good place to discover local

bands.

Sumo Spring Tournament

SPECTATOR SPORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Haru Bashō; www.sumo.or.jp; EDION Arena; hMar) The big fellas rumble into Osaka in March for this major tournament, held in

the EDION Arena (Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium (府立体育会館) in Namba.

Tickets (from ¥3800) go on sale in early February and can be purchased online.

Kyōcera Dome

BASEBALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 京セラドーム; %06-6586-0106; www.kyoceradome-osaka.jp; 3-2-1

Chiyozaki, Nishi-ku; bNagahori Tsurumiryokuchi line to Dome-mae Chiyozaki)

Also known as Osaka Dome, this futuristic stadium is home to the Orix

Buffaloes baseball team. While the Buffaloes may not have the following of

the mighty Hanshin Tigers, who play nearby in Kōbe (except for games in

August, which they play here), they do have their own dedicated (and very

vocal) fans.

DON’T MISS

BUNRAKU: TRADITIONAL PUPPET THEATRE

Bunraku, a not-at-all-childish form of puppet theatre, may not have originated in Osaka, but it

became popular here and is still very much associated with the city. Bunraku’s most famous

playwright, Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653–1724), wrote plays about Osaka’s merchants and the

denizens of the pleasure quarters, social classes otherwise generally ignored in the Japanese arts at

the time. Not surprisingly, the art form found a wide audience among them, and a theatre was

established to stage Chikamatsu’s plays in Dōtombori.

Today the place to see it is Osaka’s National Bunraku Theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国

立文楽劇場; %06-6212-2531, ticket centre 0570-07-9900; www.ntj.jac.go.jp; 1-12-10

Nipponbashi, Chūō-ku; full performance ¥2400-6000, single act ¥500-1500; hopening months

vary, check the website; bSakai-suji line to Nipponbashi, exit 7). Seeing a full performance is a

half-day event: shows, which include scenes from different plays, top four hours. Too long?

Unreserved, same-day single-act tickets are sold, when available, at the venue from 10am. Rent the

English-language audio guide (full performance/single act ¥650/300). There’s also an exhibition in

the lobby about the history of bunraku and its puppeteers and main characters.

Purchase tickets from the box office or from the Japan Arts Council’s website:

www2.ntj.jac.go.jp/unesco/bunraku/en. Note that shows sell out quickly and single-act tickets are

limited.

7 Shopping

Osaka Station is ringed by malls and department stores – they’re all

interconnected by underground passages, making the Umeda district one big

shopping conurbation. You’ll find outlets of all of Japan’s most popular

national chains here, including Uniqlo, Muji and Tokyū Hands, along with

literally hundreds of fashion boutiques.

In Minami, international high-end brands line Midō-suji, the main

boulevard, between Shinsaibashi and Namba subway stations. A few blocks

east, the jam-packed Shinsaibashi-suji (心斎橋筋商店街; MAP ;

www.shinsaibashi.or.jp; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 4) arcade has popular local and international chain stores.

On the west side of Midō-suji, Ame-Mura has youthful streetware and

secondhand shops while the Minami-Horie district has trendy boutiques.

Namba Station is anchored by the huge mall, Namba Parks ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; なんばパークス; www.nambaparks.com; 2-10-70 Namba-naka, Naniwa-ku; hshops 11am-9pm, dining to 11pm; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 4).

o Time Bomb Records

MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6213-5079; www.timebomb.co.jp; B1, 9-28 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; hnoon-9pm; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

One of the best record stores in the city, Time Bomb stocks an excellent

collection of vinyl and CDs from ’60s pop and ’70s punk to alternative, soul

and psychedelic. Find out about gigs around town here, too.

o Tower Knives

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; タワーナイブズ; %06-4301-7860; www.towerknives.com; 1-4-1 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa-ku; h10am-6pm; bMidō-suji line to Dōbutsuen-mae, exit 5)

Tower Knives has a fantastic selection of kitchen knives – both carbon steel

and stainless steel; some are hand-forged by Osaka artisans. The English-

speaking staff will walk you through the different styles, let you try them out

on some veggies and show you how to care for them. Knives start from around

¥6000. Duty-free shopping available; bring your passport.

o Standard Books

BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スタンダードブックストア; %06-6484-2239;

www.standardbookstore.com; 2-2-12 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; h11am-10.30pm; bMidō-suji line to Shinsaibashi, exit 7)

This cult-fave Osaka bookstore prides itself on not stocking any bestsellers.

Instead, it’s stocked with small-press finds, art books, indie comics and the

like, plus CDs, quirky fashion items and accessories.

o Hankyū Umeda Department Store

DEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 阪急梅田本店; www.hankyu-dept.co.jp/honten; 8-7 Kakuda-chō, Kita-ku;

h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, restaurants to 10pm; bMidō-suji line to Umeda, exit 6,

dHankyū Umeda)

Hankyū, which first opened in 1929, pioneered the now ubiquitous concept of

the train-station department store. One of Japan’s largest department stores,

‘Ume-Han’ is also among the most fashion-forward, with a few Japanese

designers on the 3rd floor. Head to the 7th floor for artisan homewares and to

the basement for a cornucopia of gourmet food items.

o Dōguya-suji Arcade

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道具屋筋; www.doguyasuji.or.jp/map_eng.html; Sennichi-mae, Chūō-ku;

h10am-6pm; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 4)

This long arcade sells just about anything related to the preparation,

consumption and selling of Osaka’s principal passion: food. There’s everything

from bamboo steamers and lacquer miso soup bowls to shopfront lanterns,

plastic food models and, of course, moulded hotplates for making tako-yaki

(octopus dumplings). Hours vary by store.

Shimada-Shōten

ALCOHOL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 島田商店; %06-6531-8119; www.sake-shimada.co.jp; 3-5-1 Itachibori, Nishi-

ku; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; bChuō line to Awaza, exit 2)

This third-generation-run sake store has narrow wooden stairs leading to a

basement cellar where you can sample small glasses of sake (¥220 each), while

sitting at tables made from sake barrel bottoms and snacking on cheese and

pickles. Friendly, welcoming staff go out of their way to help you choose the

right bottle to take home. Cash only.

Graf Studio

HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.graf-d3.com; 4-1-9 Naka-no-shima, Kita-ku; h11am-7pm, closed Mon; bYotsubashi line to Higobashi, exit 3)

Graf is a sleek furniture and design studio close to the National Museum of

Art. Pick up some lovely homewares by Japanese and international designers;

it stocks ceramics, jewellery and kitchenware. The attached cafe is a pleasant,

quiet spot for a break.

King Kong Records

MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キングコング本店; %06-6348-2260; B1, Maru Bldg, 1-9-20 Umeda, Kita-ku; h11am-8pm; bYotsubashi line to Nishi-Umeda, exit 6, dJR Osaka, south central exit)

This small record store in the Maru Building (大阪丸ビル) packs in a great

selection of vinyl and has a friendly and knowledgeable owner.

Flake Records

MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-6534-7411; www.flakerecords.com; No 201, 2nd fl, Sono Yotsubashi Bldg, 1-11-9 Minami-Horie, Nishi-ku; hnoon-9pm; bYotsubashi line to Yotsubashi, exit 6)

Flake is Osaka’s most in-the-know music shop, selling new and used, Japanese

and imported, CDs and vinyl. The owner speaks some English; ask him for his

recommendations on local bands. This is also a good place to pick up flyers for

live music events, and it has listening stations.

Maruzen & Junkudō Umeda

BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 丸善&ジュンク堂書店梅田店; www.junkudo.co.jp; Chaska

Chayamachi Bldg, 7-20 Chayamachi, Kita-ku; h10am-10pm; dHankyū Umeda)

This is the largest bookstore in Osaka, the result of two established chains

joining forces. There’s a big range of Englishlanguage books (on the 6th floor)

and travel guides (3rd floor). It’s in the Tadao Ando–designed Chaska

Chayamachi building.

NAVIGATING OSAKA

Fair warning: Osaka’s larger stations can be disorienting, particularly Namba and the Umeda/JR

Osaka Station area. Exits are often confusingly labelled, even for Japanese people, and English-

language signage is lacking compared to similar stations in other big Japanese cities.

Adding to the confusion, shinkansen (bullet trains) don’t stop at any of these hubs, but at Shin-

Osaka Station, three subway stops (about five minutes) north of Umeda and JR Osaka Station on

the Midō-suji line.

8 Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Osaka has a rough image in Japan, with the highest number of reported crimes

per capita of any city in the country – though it remains significantly safer than

most cities of comparable size. Still, it’s wise to employ the same common

sense here that you would back home.

A Purse snatchings are not uncommon, so be mindful.

A Nishinari-ku (also called Airin-chiku), south of Shinimamiya Station (just

below Shin-Sekai), has a sizeable homeless population and an organised-crime

presence. There are a number of budget accommodations here targeting foreign

travellers; while it’s unlikely you’d encounter any real danger, female

travellers, particularly solo female travellers, do risk drawing unwanted

attention, especially at night.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Japan Red Cross Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本赤十字病院; Nihon Sekijyūji Byōin; %06-6774-5111; www.osaka-med.jrc.or.jp; 5-30 Fudegasaki-chō, Tennōji-ku; h24hr; dKintestsu Ue-Honmachi) Emergency care; some doctors speak English.

Ohkita Medical Clinic (大北メディカルクリニック; MAP ; %06-6344-0380;

www.ookita.com; 4th fl, Umeda Square Bldg, 1-12-17 Umeda, Kita-ku; h10am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat; dJR Osaka, south central exit) English-speaking doctor for

nonemergency care, near JR Osaka Station.

POST

Osaka Central Post Office (大阪中央郵便局; MAP ; Basement fl, Eki-mae Dai-1 Bldg,

1-3-1 Umeda, Kita-ku; postal services 9am-9pm, ATM 7am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30pm Sat, 8am-

9pm Sun; bYotsubashi line to Nishi-Umeda, dJR Osaka, Sakurabashi exit)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Osaka Visitors Information Center Umeda (大阪市ビジターズインフォ

メーションセンター・梅田; MAP ; %06-6345-2189; www.osaka-info.jp; JR Osaka Station;

h7am-11pm; dJR Osaka, north central exit) The main tourist office, with English

information, pamphlets and maps, is on the 1st floor of the central north

concourse of JR Osaka Station. There are also branches on the 1st floor of

Nankai Namba Station (大阪市ビジターズインフォメーションセン

ター・なんば; MAP ; %06-6631-9100; Nankai Namba Station; h9am-8pm; bMidō-suji line to

Namba, exit 4, dNankai Namba) and at Kansai International Airport. Tourist offices

can help book accommodation if you visit in person. The tourist information

website (www.osaka-info.jp) is a good resource, too.

USEFUL RESOURCES

Kansai Scene (www.kansaiscene.com) For the lowdown on upcoming events,

pick up a copy of this free English-language magazine at restaurants,

nightspots, some hotels and major bookshops.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Two airports serve Osaka: Kansai International Airport (KIX; 関西空港;

www.kansai-airport.or.jp) for all international and some domestic flights; and the domestic Itami Airport (ITM; 伊丹空港; %06-6856-6781; www.osaka-airport.co.jp; 3-555

Hotaru-ga-ike, Nishi-machi, Toyonaka), also confusingly called Osaka International

Airport. KIX is about 50km southwest of the city, on an artificial island in the

bay. Itami is located 12km northwest of Osaka.

To/From Osaka Itami Airport

Osaka Monorail Connects the airport to Hotarugaike (¥200, three minutes)

and Senri-Chūō (¥330, 12 minutes), from where you can transfer, respectively,

to the Hankyū Takarazaka line or Hankyū Senri line for Osaka Station.

Osaka Airport Limousine (www.okkbus.co.jp) Frequent buses connect the

airport with Osaka Station (¥640, 25 minutes), Osaka City Air Terminal

(OCAT; ¥640, 35 minutes) in Namba and Shin-Osaka Station (¥500, 25

minutes). At Itami, buy your tickets from the machine outside the arrivals hall.

To/From Kansai International Airport

KIX is well connected to the city with direct train lines and buses.

Nankai Express Rapit All-reserved twice-hourly service (¥1430, 40 minutes,

7am to 11pm) between Nankai Kansai-Airport Station (in Terminal 1) and

Nankai Namba Station; Nankai Airport Express trains take about 10 minutes

longer and cost ¥920. To reach Nankai Kansai-Airport Station from Terminal 2,

you will need to take a shuttle bus to Terminal 1.

JR Haruka Kansai-Airport Express Twice-hourly service (6.30am to 10pm)

between KIX and Tennōji Station (unreserved seat ¥1710, 30 minutes) and

Shin-Osaka Station (¥2330, 50 minutes). More frequent JR Kansai Airport

rapid trains also run between KIX, Tennōji (¥1060, 50 minutes) and Osaka

Station (¥1190, 68 minutes); the last train departs at 11.30pm. All these stations

connect to the Midō-suji subway line. It departs from Terminal 1; you need to

take a free shuttle bus if you arrive at Terminal 2.

KATE (www.kate.co.jp) Airport limousine buses run to/from Osaka City Air

Terminal (OCAT; MAP ; %06-6635-3000; www.ocat.co.jp) in Namba (¥1050, 50 minutes), JR Osaka Station (¥1550, one hour) and Tempōzan (¥1550, one hour). Note

that the trip, especially to Umeda, can take longer depending on traffic. After

midnight, there is only an hourly service to Osaka Station. Note that bus

departures are more frequent from Terminal 1.

Taxi There are standard taxi fares to Umeda (¥14,500, 50 minutes) and Namba

(¥14,000, 50 minutes). There is a late-night fare surcharge of ¥2500.

BOAT

The following ferries depart from Osaka Nankō Port (大阪南港; %06-6613-1571;

2-1-10 Nan-kō-kita, Suminoe-ku; dNew Port Town line to Ferry Terminal) for destinations in

Shikoku, Kyūshū and Okinawa:

Orange Ferry (www.orange-ferry.co.jp) Daily for Ehime (from ¥5660, eight

hours), on Shikoku.

Ferry Sunflower (www.ferry-sunflower.co.jp) Daily for Beppu (from ¥11,510, 12 hours) and Kagoshima (from ¥13,420, 16 hours), on Kyūshū.

City Line (www.cityline.co.jp) Twice-daily for Kita-Kyūshū (from ¥4680,

12½ hours), north of Fukuoka

A Line Ferry (www.aline-ferry.com) Twice-weekly for Naha (¥19,330, 40

hours) on Okinawa via Amami-Oshima (¥15,120, 27 hours), off the coast of

Kyūshū.

Tickets can be purchased online or from travel agencies.

OSAKA FERRIES TO/FROM SOUTH KOREA & CHINA

Ferries depart from the Osaka Port International Ferry Terminal (大阪港国際フェリーターミ

ナル; Osaka-kō Kokusai Ferry Terminal; %06-6243-6345; 1-20-52 Nan-kō-kita, Suminoe-ku;

bChūō line to Cosmo Square, dNankō Port Town Line to Cosmo Square) for Shanghai, China, and

Busan, South Korea. The ferry terminal is a 15-minute walk from the subway.

Japan China International Ferry (日中国際フェリー; %06-6536-6541; www.shinganjin.com) departs every other Tuesday (alternating with Kōbe) for Shanghai; Shanghai Ferry Company (上

海フェリー; www.shanghai-ferry.co.jp) departs on Friday. One-way 2nd-class fares start from

¥20,000; the journey takes approximately 48 hours. Tickets can be booked online in English or

through a travel agent.

Panstar Ferry (パンスターフェリー; %06-6614-2516; www.panstar.jp) leaves for Busan (one-

way 2nd-class fares from ¥13,000, 19 hours) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. As there’s no

English on the website, it’s helpful to book through a travel agency.

BUS

Highway buses depart from the Willer Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Willer バスターミナル; www.willerexpress.com; 1st fl, Umeda Sky Bldg Tower West, 1-1-88 Ōyodonaka, Kita-ku; dJR Osaka, north central exit), next to the Umeda Sky Building for the

following destinations:

Hakata (Fukuoka, Kyūshū; ¥3920 to ¥12,000, eight to 10 hours)

Hiroshima (¥3360 to ¥8000, six to eight hours)

Matsuyama (Ehime, Shikoku; ¥3760 to ¥9900, seven to eight hours)

Tokyo (¥4700 to ¥15,000, eight to 10 hours)

Longer routes have overnight buses; check the Willer website for more

routes. Prices depend on the class of bus (nicer ones have roomy, reclining

seats), season and day of departure (weekday travel is cheaper). Tickets can be

purchased online in English.

Slightly pricier, but convenient, JR West Highway Bus

(www.nishinihonjrbus.co.jp) runs to similar destinations from the JR Osaka Station Highway Bus Terminal ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 大阪駅ＪＲ高速バスター

ミナル; www.nishinihonjrbus.co.jp; dJR Osaka), outside the station’s north-central concourse. Book online five days prior to travel for better rates.

OSAKA DISCOUNT PASSES

Enjoy Eco Card (エンジョイエコカード; weekday/weekend ¥800/600, child ¥300) One-day

unlimited travel on subways, city buses and Nankō Port Town line, plus some admission discounts.

At subway ticket machines, push the ‘English’ button, insert cash, select ‘one-day pass’ or ‘one-

day pass weekend’.

Osaka Amazing Pass (大阪周遊パス; www.osp.osaka-info.jp/en/) Foreign visitors to Japan can

purchase one-day passes (¥2500), good for unlimited travel on city subways, buses and trains and

admission to around 35 sights (including Osaka-jō and the Umeda Sky Building); or two-day

passes (¥3300) that cover the same sights but only travel on city subways and buses. Passes are

sold at tourist information centres and city subway stations.

Yokoso Osaka Ticket (www.howtoosaka.com/en/ticket/ticket/yokoso.html; ¥1500) Includes one-

way fare on the Nankai Express Rapit from KIX to Nankai Namba Station and one-day travel on

city subway and Nankō Port Town lines, plus some admission discounts. Must be purchased online

in advance.

TRAIN

Shin-Osaka Station is on the Tōkaidō-Sanyō shinkansen line (between Tokyo

and Hakata in Fukuoka) and the eastern terminus of the Kyūshū shinkansen to

Kagoshima. Departures are frequent.

Destinations include Tokyo (¥14,450, 2½ hours), Hiroshima (¥10,440, 1½

hours), Hakata (¥15,000, three hours) and Kagoshima (¥21,900, 4¾ hours).

To/From Kyoto

Tōkaidō-Sanyō shinkansen Runs from Shin-Osaka Station one stop east to

Kyoto Station (¥1420, 14 minutes).

JR Kyoto line Cheaper and easier from central Osaka than getting the

shinkansen. JR Osaka Station to Kyoto (¥560, 30 minutes).

Hankyū Kyoto line Tokkyū trains run from Hankyū Umeda Station to

Karasuma (¥400, 44 minutes) and Kawaramachi (¥400, 46 minutes) in Kyoto.

Keihan Main line Tokkyū trains run from Osaka’s Yodoyabashi Station, a stop

on the Midō-suji subway line, to Gion-Shijō and Sanjō stations (¥410, 45 to 55

minutes) in Kyoto.

To/From Kōbe

Tōkaidō-Sanyō shinkansen Runs from Shin-Osaka Station one stop west to

Shin-Kōbe Station (from ¥1500, 13 minutes), but from central Osaka it’s easier

to get the JR Kōbe line from Osaka Station to Kōbe’s central Sannomiya

Station (¥410, 22 to 27 minutes).

Hankyū Kōbe line Tokkyū trains run from Hankyū Umeda Station to Kōbe’s

Sannomiya Station (¥320, 30 minutes) and are usually less crowded than the

JR trains.

To/From Nara

JR Yamatoji line Kaisoku (express) trains run from Tennōji Station to JR Nara

Station (¥470, 35 minutes) via Hōryū-ji (¥460, 25 minutes).

Kintetsu Nara line Kaisoku trains run from Namba (Kintetsu Namba Station)

to Kintetsu Nara Station (¥560, 40 minutes).

ICOCA CARD

This re-chargeable, prepaid transport pass with an IC-chip works on most trains, subways and

buses in the Kansai area. Just wave it over the reader at the ticket gates. Purchase it at any ticket

machine (¥2000, including ¥500 refundable deposit). If you’re arriving at Kansai International

Airport (KIX), you can buy a discounted ICOCA & Haruka combo ticket that includes travel from

the airport to Shin-Osaka Station (¥3300) or Tennōji (¥3100) on the JR Haruka Kansai-Airport

Express train and an ICOCA card with ¥1500 (and the ¥500 deposit). When you return the card to

any station window, you are refunded the deposit and any remaining credit.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Hub Chari (%070-5436-2892; http://hubchari-english.jimdo.com; per hr/day ¥200/1000) rents city bikes at several stations around town. It’s run by an NGO that supports

Osaka’s homeless community.

Cycle Osaka rents out city bikes; book online in advance and pick up from

its Shin-Sekai branch.

TAXI

Taxis are your only option after midnight when public transport shuts down.

Flagfall is ¥680, which covers the first 2km; then it’s ¥80 for every additional

296m. Taxis can be hailed easily on the street; a red indicator means the taxi is

available.

TRAIN & SUBWAY

Trains and subways should get you everywhere you need to go (unless you stay

out past midnight, when they stop running).

The JR Kanjō-sen – the Osaka loop line – makes a circuit south of JR Osaka

Station, though most sights fall in the middle of it.

There are eight subway lines, but the one that short-term visitors will find

most useful is the Midō-suji (red) line, running north–south and stopping at

Shin-Osaka, Umeda (next to Osaka Station), Shinsaibashi, Namba and Tennōji

stations. Single rides cost ¥180 to ¥370 (half-price for children).

The Metro Osaka Subway app (available from the iTunes store) is very

handy to have as some subway stations in Osaka don’t have a route/fare map in

English. You can search for fares using the app and plan your journey.

KŌBE 神戸

%078 / POP 1,528,100

Perched on a hillside sloping down to the sea, Kōbe (神戸) is one of Japan’s

most attractive and cosmopolitan cities. It was a maritime gateway from the

earliest days of trade with China and home to one of the first foreign

settlements after Japan reopened to the world in the mid-19th century. Kōbe is

compact, designed for walking, and easily visited as a day trip from Osaka or

Kyoto, or as a stopover en route to points west. Stay overnight to immerse

yourself in the city’s distinct atmosphere and dining options.

Kōbe

1 Sights

1 Ikuta-jinja

B5

2 Kitano-chō

B2

3 Kōbe City Museum

C7

4 Nankin-machi

B6

4 Sleeping

5 ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Kōbe

C1

6 B Kōbe

B5

7 Hotel Trusty Kōbe Kyū-Kyoryuchi

C6

8 Oriental Hotel

C7

5 Eating

9 Daichi

B6

10 Grill Jūjiya

C6

11 Isuzu Bakery

C3

12 Isuzu Bakery Ikuta Road Shop

B5

Kōbe Plaisir

(see 6)

13 Mikami

C3

14 Modernark

B5

15 Wanto Burger

B5

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 Sake Yashiro

B5

17 Starbucks Ijinkan

B3

3 Entertainment

18 Sone

B4

7 Shopping

19 Daimaru Department Store

B6

1 Sights

Kōbe’s sights can roughly be divided into three areas: Kitano-chō in the

foothills to the north, near the Shin-Kōbe shinkansen station; central, around

Sannomiya and Motomachi, including the former foreigners’ settlement of

Kyū-Kyoryuchi, and Nankinmachi (Chinatown); and the more recently

developed waterfront, which includes shopping and dining complex Kōbe

Harbor Land and bayside plaza Meriken Park.

Port of Kōbe Earthquake Memorial Park

MONUMENT

(神戸港震災メモリアルパーク; Meriken Park; bKaigan line to Minato Motomachi,

dMotomachi) F

At 5.46am on 17 January 1995 the Great Hanshin Earthquake struck this

region. It was Japan’s strongest since the Great Kantō Quake of 1923

devastated Tokyo. Kōbe bore the brunt of the damage – 6000 killed, over

30,000 injured, toppled expressways and nearly 300,000 lost buildings. This

simple, open-air, harbour-side museum tells the story through artefacts and a

video presentation in English. Most striking is a section of the dock that was

left as it was after that devastating day.

Nunobiki Falls

WATERFALL

(布引の滝, Nunobikinotaki; bShin-Kōbe, dJR Shin-Kōbe) F

You’d never guess that such a beautiful natural sanctuary could sit so close to

the city. This revered waterfall in four sections (the longest is 43m tall) has

been the subject of art, poetry and worship for centuries – some of the poems

are reproduced on stone tablets at the site. It’s accessible by a steep 400m path

from Shin-Kōbe Station. Take the ground-floor exit, turn left and walk under

the station building to the path.

You can also reach the falls from the midway station of the Nunobiki

Ropeway in about 20 minutes; follow the road (it’s signposted) and keep a

lookout for the staircase on your right (not well signposted) that leads to the

waterfall path.

Kitano-chō

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北野町; bShin-Kōbe, dJR Shin-Kōbe)

For generations of Japanese tourists, this pleasant, hilly neighbourhood is

Kōbe, thanks to the dozen or so well-preserved homes of (mostly) Western

trading families and diplomats who settled here during the Meiji period. These

ijinkan (literally ‘foreigners’ houses’) – strangely, though naturally,

incongruent, as each is built in the architectural style of the owner’s home

country – are now mostly cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops.

Two of the best-preserved homes, the red-brick Weathercock House, built

in 1909 for a German trader, and the wooden, jade-green Moegi House, built

in 1903 for the former US consul, are open as museums (9am to 6pm;

combined ticket ¥650). Much of the original furnishings are intact – you’ll see

the lengths that expats a century ago went to in order to maintain their native

lifestyles.

Ikuta-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 生田神社; %078-321-3851; 1-2-1 Shimo-Yamate-dōri, Chūō-ku; h7am-sunset; dJR Sannomiya) F

Kōbe’s signature shrine is said to date from 201, though it’s been rebuilt many

a time – a symbol of resilience for the city. It’s right in the middle of

Sannomiya, providing a peaceful retreat from the urban bustle.

Kōbe City Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神戸市立博物館, Kōbe Shiritsu Hakubutsukan; %078-391-0035;

www.city.kobe.lg.jp/culture/culture/institution/museum; 24 Kyō-machi, Chūō-ku; dJR Sannomiya) Kōbe’s local-history museum, in a Greek-revival-style building dating from

1935, is undergoing major renovations and scheduled to reopen in November

2019.

Nankin-machi

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南京町, Chinatown; Sakaemachi-dōri, Chūō-ku; bKaigan line to Kyūkyoryūchi-Daimaru-mae, dJR or Hanshin lines to Motomachi)

Kōbe’s Chinatown – Nankin comes from Nanjing; machi just means town –

dates to the early days of the city opening its port to foreign traders. It was

rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake and has all the visual signifiers of Chinatowns

the world over: tiered gates at the cardinal entrances (except for the north side,

guarded by lions) and lots of restaurants.

It’s definitely touristy, but it’s fun: most restaurants have stalls out the front

selling street food, like nikuman (steamed buns, usually filled with pork; baozi)

and chimaki (sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, also often filled with pork;

they’re also called zongzi) for a few hundred yen each.

Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway

VIEWPOINT

(布引ハーブ園＆ロープウェイ; ropeway 1 way/return ¥950/1500, return after 5pm ¥900;

h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sat & Sun 20 Mar-19 Jul & Sep-Nov, 10am-8.30pm daily 20 Jul-31

Aug, to 5pm Dec-19 Mar; bShin-Kōbe, dJR Shin-Kōbe)

Escape the city on a 400m-high mountain ridge, offering sweeping views

across town to the bay. During the day (to 5pm) you can descend on foot

through the landscaped herb gardens, which include some nicely placed

benches and hammocks, to the midway station, from where you can return by

ropeway or continue to the Nunobiki Falls and Shin-Kōbe Station.

z Festivals & Events

Luminarie

LIGHT SHOW

(神戸ルミナリエ; http://kobe-luminarie.jp; hearly Dec)

Kōbe’s biggest event takes place over 10 days in early December, when the

streets southwest of Kōbe City Hall are decorated with illuminated archways

that together look like an other-worldly cathedral. It’s held in memory of the

6000 people who perished in the 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake, and to

celebrate the city’s miraculous recovery. Check online for the exact dates.

4 Sleeping

There are lots of business hotels clustered around Sannomiya and some pricier

options on the waterfront (with bay views).

ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Kōbe

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ANAクラウンプラザ神戸; %078-291-1121; www.anacrowneplaza-

kobe.jp; 1-chome, Kitano-chō, Chūō-ku; s from ¥12,800, d or tw from ¥14,800; naWs; bShin-Kōbe,

dJR Shin-Kōbe)

With direct access from Shin-Kōbe Station (via a passage on the station’s 2nd

floor) and spacious rooms, this 37-floor hotel is an easy choice, even if it feels

a bit dated. There’s an English-speaking staff, restaurants, bars and a fitness

centre (¥1080 surcharge for the pool).There are also family rooms (¥22,800)

with two double beds that can sleep up to four people.

B Kōbe

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・ビー神戸; %078-333-4880; www.theb-hotels.com/the-b-kobe; 2-11-5

Shimo-Yamate, Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥11,000/12,700; naW; bSannomiya, dJR Sannomiya)

Centrally located steps from restaurants and nightlife and downhill from

Kitano-chō, the B Kōbe is a good, modern, utilitarian choice. Staff speak some

English, and there’s free coffee in the lobby. Prices fluctuate wildly, rising at

weekends, but great deals can be found during the week.

Oriental Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神戸旧居留地オリエンタルホテル; %078-326-1500;

www.orientalhotel.jp; 25 Kyōmachi, Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥34,000/38,000; naW; dJR Sannomiya or Motomachi, DPort Liner to Boeki Center)

One of Japan’s most historic hotels (1870), in Kyū-Kyoryuchi (the former

foreigners’ settlement), the Oriental was rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake and

is now a sleek tower with elegant, designer rooms. Expect indulgent, English-

speaking service and great views of the bay and mountains from the 17th-

storey lobby and restaurant. Look for deals online.

Note: this hotel is not affiliated with Oriental hotels in other countries.

Hotel Trusty Kōbe Kyū-Kyoryuchi

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルトラスティ神戸旧居留地; %078-330-9111;

http://ct.rion.mobi/trusty.kobe; 63 Naniwamachi, Chūō-ku; s/d/tw from ¥14,500/23,000/25,500; naW; dJR Sannomiya)

The name screams ‘standard-issue business hotel’, but this is actually a

boutique property with contemporary style in Kyū-Kyoryuchi (the former

foreigners’ settlement).

If you sign up for the breakfast buffet (¥1950), you can eat it on the terrace

of the hotel’s 2nd-floor cafe.

5 Eating

In addition to its premium beef, Kōbe is known for yōshoku, Western-style

food as it was first interpreted in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and

Chinese food – both legacies of the city’s cosmopolitan history. For izakaya,

look no further than the nightlife district just north of Sannomiya Station.

The bayside mall Kōbe Harbor Land (神戸ハーバーランド;

www.harborland.co.jp; Higashi Kawasaki-chō, Chūō-ku; h10am-9pm; c; bKaigan line to Harbor Land, dJR Kōbe line to Kōbe) has lots of family-friendly, if not terribly exciting,

restaurants.

Isuzu Bakery

BAKERY

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; イスズベーカリー; %078-222-4180; www.isuzu-bakery.jp; 2-1-4

Nunobiki-chō, Chūō-ku; bread & pastries ¥120-560; h8am-8pm; dJR Sannomiya)

The most famous of Kōbe’s bakeries, Isuzu is particularly famous for its crisp,

fluffy ‘curry pan’ (¥160; カレーパン), a deep-fried doughnut stuffed with beef

curry. There’s a huge variety of sweet and savoury options (and, with no

English signs, you never quite know which you’re going to get). Grab a tray

and tongs and take your selections to the cashier.

This is the main shop, but there are other locations, such as the one on Ikuta

Road (イスズベーカリー生田ロード店; %078-333-4180; 2-1-14 Kitanagasa-dõri, Chūō-

ku; bread & pastries ¥120-560; h9am-11pm; dSannomiya). Takeaway only.

Mikami

SHOKUDO, INTERNATIONAL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 味加味; %078-242-5200; 2-5-9 Kanō-chō, Chūō-ku; mains ¥480-1800, set meals from around ¥850; h11.30am-3pm & 5-11pm Wed-Mon; dJR Sannomiya, dJR Shin-Kōbe)

Mikami is a beacon of good food in the otherwise forlorn zone between Shin-

Kōbe Station and Sannomiya. For both lunch and dinner it does excellent

teishoku (set meals); the ‘ katsu’ (crumbed and fried) dishes are especially

good. At dinner it also does bistro-style fare like clams steamed in white wine

and braised duck paired with wine, beer and cocktails.

It’s on the street one block west of the main road connecting Shin-Kōbe

Station and Sannomiya, about halfway between the two; look for an ivy-

covered building.

Modernark

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; モダナーク; %078-391-3060; http://modernarkcafe.chronicle.co.jp; 3-11-15

Kitanagasa-dōri, Chūō-ku; mains ¥950-1150; h11.30am-10pm; v; dMotomachi) F

This adorably funky cafe with a glassed-in verandah is Kōbe’s go-to spot for

organic vegetarian and vegan meals and cakes, served with herbal tea or

homemade sangria. Look for the thicket of potted trees out the front.

Grill Jūjiya

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グリル十字屋; %078-331-5455; www.grill-jujiya.com; 96 Edo-machi, Chūō-ku; mains ¥850-2300; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; dJR Sannomiya)

In a city thick with east–west heritage, this old-fashioned charmer specialises

in yōshoku, early Japanese takes on Western cooking, like hayashi rice (beef

hash served with onions and demi-glace sauce over rice). It’s been in business

since the 1930s, though the exterior is newer (and so is the beer selection: you

can get craft beer from Osaka brewery Minoh here).

Wanto Burger

BURGERS

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ワントバーガー; %078-392-5177; www.wantoburger.com; 3-10-6 Shimo-

Yamate-dōri, Chūō-ku; burgers ¥1080-3800; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, to 5pm

Sun; dJR Sannomiya)

Wanto serves towering, teetering burgers made with Kōbe beef – and also

somewhat less expensive varieties of wagyū (Japanese beef). It’s run by a cool

young crew and looks like a vintage US diner, with a long counter and a few

tables.

Daichi

STEAK

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大地; %078-333-6688; www.koubegyuu.com/shop/daichi; 1-1-3 Motomachi-

dōri, Chūō-ku; steak meals from ¥2500; h11am-9pm; bKaigan line to Kyūkyorūchi-Daimaru-mae,

dMotomachi)

A reliable place for Kōbe beef served teppanyaki (grilled on a steel plate) at

entry-level prices: less-expensive cuts start at ¥2500 for 80g and a daily-special

premium cut at ¥5800. Steak meals come with grilled vegetables and, for ¥800,

salad, rice and miso soup (free before 3pm). Look for the giant bulls just inside

Chinatown’s east gate.

Kōbe Plaisir

STEAK

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 神戸プレジール; %078-571-0141; https://kobe-plaisir.jp; 2-11-5 Shimo-Yamate-dōri, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner Kōbe-beef set menus from ¥7500/11,000; h11.30am-3pm & 5-

10.30pm; bSannomiya, dJR Sannomiya)

This is a great place to try Kōbe beef prepared in a variety of styles, including

teppanyaki or shabushabu (thinly sliced beef cooked with vegetables in boiling

water and then dipped in sauce). It’s managed directly by the local agriculture

cooperative, and courses include plenty of veggies, too.

There are also less-expensive courses that use Tajima-gyū (high-quality beef

that simply lacks the Kōbe brand name); there’s a 10% service charge for

dinner service.

The restaurant is rather nice inside, despite being on the ground floor of a

business hotel, B Kōbe.

KŌBE BEEF

Kōbe is known worldwide for its top-class beef, considered by many to be the best in the world.

Highly marbled, it’s naturally tender and rich in flavour. It’s also held to very strict regulations: to

be accredited as Kōbe gyū (Kōbe beef), the meat must fulfill certain criteria for marbling, colour

and texture; crucially, it must also come from a Tajima breed of Japanese black cow, born, raised

and slaughtered in Kōbe’s home prefecture, Hyōgo. There’s a widespread belief that the cows are

massaged, fed beer and played soothing music, though the Kōbe Beef Marketing & Distribution

Promotion Association (www.kobe-beef.jp) disavows it. There are many places in the city to try it, though note that it is very expensive, especially for the best cuts (which really give you a taste for

that famous marbling). Splurge on the cut rather than the size; the fat content makes Kōbe beef

very filling.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Kōbe has a lively nightlife scene, largely centred just north of Sannomiya

Station.

Sake Yashiro

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さけやしろ; %078-334-7339; 4-6-15 Ikuta-chō, Chūō-ku; h4-11.30pm; dJR

Sannomiya)

This standing bar has a daunting selection of 90 kinds of sake, including about

50 from local brewers, on its (Japanese-only) menu. Anticipating your needs,

staff have made a cheat sheet in English of their top five local picks, all priced

¥880 by the glass. Look for the denim door curtains.

If you need food to power you through your tasting session, try the ‘sake

yoshiro course’ (さけやしろコース; ¥3800), a set of six small seasonal

dishes.

Starbucks Ijinkan

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スターバックス異人館; %078-230-6302; 3-1-31 Kitano-chō, Chūō-ku; h8am-10pm; dJR Sannomiya)

A big chain wouldn’t normally be worth listing, but this Starbucks is different:

it’s housed in a beautifully preserved former ijinkan (foreigners’ house), c

1907, in the Kitano-chō neighbourhood. Buy a cuppa and ensconce yourself in

period antiques and furniture (albeit amid some of the standard Starbucks

decor). It can be crowded.

3 Entertainment

Sone

JAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ソネ; %078-221-2055; www.kobe-sone.com; 1-24-10 Nakayamate-dōri, Chūō-

ku; cover ¥1140; h5pm-midnight; dJR Sannomiya)

Sone is Kōbe’s go-to spot for jazz (since 1969) and gathers four acts, of mostly

Kansai-area artists, each night. The look is a bit old-timey Viennese cafe and

the music is mostly standards, but there’s a convivial atmosphere (and plenty of

time for conversation between acts). One drink (from ¥700) or food (from

¥1000; mostly pub dishes) minimum order.

8 Information

Kōbe Information Centre (神戸市総合インフォメーションセンター; %078-

322-0220; www.feel-kobe.jp; JR Sannomiya; h9am-7pm; dSannomiya) The city’s main tourist information office is on the ground floor outside of JR Sannomiya Station’s

east gate. There’s a smaller information counter on the 2nd floor of Shin-Kōbe

Station, outside the main shinkansen gate. Both have good English city maps.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Kansai International Airport is the nearest international airport.

Convenient Kōbe Airport (www.kairport.co.jp) is served by ANA, Air Do,

Skymark Airlines and Solaseed Air, with domestic flights to Tokyo (Haneda;

one hour and 10 minutes), Sapporo (Chitose; two hours) and Okinawa (Naha;

2¼ hours) and other cities.

Osaka Itami Airport is also convenient for Kōbe.

To/From Kansai International Airport

Boat A fun, if unusual, method: Kōbe-Kansai Airport Bay Shuttle (神戸関

西空港ベイ・シャトル; www.kobe-access.jp; h5.30am-11.35pm) high-speed boats run

between Kansai International Airport and Kōbe Airport (adult/concession

¥1850/930, 30 minutes, approximately hourly). Purchase a ticket in the arrivals

hall, then get the shuttle bus for the pier; at Kōbe Airport you can then take the

Port Liner monorail the rest of the way to the city (fares for shuttle bus and

monorail are included in the ticket, though when you purchase specify that you

intend to take the Port Liner).

Bus Kate (www.kate.co.jp/en) runs direct limousine buses between KIX and

Sannomiya Station (¥1950, 1¼ hours, every 20 minutes).

Train Take a JR Kansai Rapid Airport train to Osaka (¥1190, 70 minutes) and

then change for a shinkaisoku train on the JR Kōbe line for Sannomiya (¥410,

20 minutes).

To/From Kōbe Airport

The Port Liner (ポートライナー; www.knt-liner.co.jp) monorail connects

Sannomiya (downtown Kōbe) and the airport (¥330, 18 minutes, frequent). A

taxi costs between ¥2500 and ¥3000 (15 to 20 minutes).

To/From Osaka Itami Airport

There are direct limousine buses (¥1050, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes)

to/from Osaka’s Itami Airport. In Kōbe the buses stop on the southwestern side

of Sannomiya Station.

BOAT

Overnight ferries depart from Kōbe Rokko Port for the following destinations:

Ehime (Niihama East Port, Shikoku; ¥6800, seven hours, Tuesday to Saturday)

Departing around 1am, via Orange Ferry (%06-6612-1811; www.orange-ferry.co.jp).

Reservations can be made online in Japanese; otherwise use a travel agent.

Kita-Kyūshū (Shinmoji Port; ¥6680, 12½ hours, daily) Departing at 6.30pm

(Sunday to Thursday) or 8pm (Friday and Saturday), via Hankyū Ferry (阪九

フェリー; %0120-56-3268; www.han9f.co.jp); reservations can be made online.

Oita (Kyūshū; ¥11,820, 11½ hours, daily) Departing at 7pm (Sunday to

Thursday) or 7.50pm (Friday and Saturday), via Ferry Sunflower (フェリー

さんふらわあ; %toll free 0120-56-3268; www.ferry-sunflower.co.jp); reservations can be made online.

Buses (adult/child ¥230/120) make the 20-minute trip to Kōbe Rokko Port

from JR Sumiyoshi Station; they’re well timed for the Oita and Kita-Kyūshū

ferries (see either ferry company for a schedule and more details).

BUS

Willer Express (http://willerexpress.com) overnight buses connect Kōbe’s

Sannomiya Bus Terminal and Tokyo (Shinjuku and Tokyo Stations). Prices

start at ¥5000 and the journey takes eight or nine hours.

TRAIN

Centrally located Sannomiya Station is Kōbe’s biggest rail hub, served by JR

lines and the private Hankyū and Hanshin lines. The JR Kōbe line runs fast

shinkaisoku (special rapid trains) for Osaka (¥410, 20 minutes) and Kyoto

(¥1080, 50 minutes), and, in the other direction, for Himeji (¥970, 40 minutes).

Hankyū-line trains connect Sannomiya and Osaka’s Umeda Station ( tokkyū;

¥320, 30 minutes).

Shin-Kōbe Station, north of Sannomiya, is on the Tōkaidō/San-yō and

Kyūshū shinkansen lines. Destinations to the east include Shin-Osaka (¥1500,

15 minutes), Kyoto (¥2810, 30 minutes) and Tokyo (¥14,160, 2¾ hours); those

to the west include Himeji (¥2700, 25 minutes), Hiroshima (¥9490, 70

minutes) and Fukuoka (Hakata Station; ¥14,160, 2¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Kobelin (%toll free 0120-040-587; www.kobelin.jp; first hour ¥100, each additional 30min ¥100, per day ¥800) The city’s bicycle-share scheme has ports all over town (look for the

red bikes), though it’s a little tricky to use: follow the instructions online and

register in advance with a credit card.

BUS

The city-loop bus (per ride/day pass ¥260/660, children half-price) makes a

circular tour of most of the city’s sightseeing spots and its main stations several

times an hour (10am to 6pm); look for the retro-style green buses. Purchase

passes and tickets on board or at the tourist information centre.

TRAIN

JR, Hankyū and Hanshin railway lines run east–west through town. The

Seishin-Yamate subway line connects Shin-Kōbe and Sannomiya Stations

(¥210, two minutes), or you can walk it in about 20 minutes. The Kaigan

subway line runs from just south of Sannomiya Station to Minato Motomachi

and Harbor Land stations for sights on the bay.

HIMEJI 姫路

%079 / POP 531,300

Himeji (姫路), in Hyōgo Prefecture west of Kōbe, is on the map for one

particular reason: it’s home to Japan’s biggest and best-preserved feudal-era

castle, Himeji-jō. It’s an easy day trip or stopover and well worth a visit.

Himeji

1 Top Sights

1 Himeji-jō

A1

1 Sights

2 Kōkō-en

A2

4 Sleeping

3 Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji

B4

5 Eating

4 Nadagiku Kappa-tei

B4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

5 Hanamoto Coffee

B3

6 Kokoromi

B5

8 Transport

7 Bus Stop 6

A5

8 Harima Cycle Station

A4

9 Highway Bus Terminal

A5

10 Shinki Bus Information Desk

A4

1 Sights

o Himeji-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 姫路城, Himeji Castle; www.himejicastle.jp/en; 68 Hon-machi; adult/child

¥1000/300, combination ticket with Kōkō-en ¥1040/360; h9am-5pm Sep-Apr, to 6pm May-Aug)

Himeji-jō is Japan’s most magnificent castle, built in 1580 by general

Toyotomi Hideyoshi and one of only a few original castles from that era (most

are modern concrete reconstructions). Its whiteplaster facade (and its elegant

presence) earned it the nickname Shirasagi-jō (White Egret Castle). There’s a

five-storey main keep and three smaller keeps, all surrounded by moats and

defensive walls. It takes about 1½ hours to follow the arrow-marked route

around the castle. Last entry is an hour before closing.

The castle is often crowded – it’s a popular destination for tour groups – in

which case you might have to wait a little before entering some areas; if you’re

coming on a weekend especially, allow extra time.

While following the route through the keeps you’ll get a good lesson in

medieval defensive strategies, like the ishiotoshi – narrow openings that

allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto anyone trying to scale the

walls after making it past the other defences. There are lovely city views from

the top floor of the main keep. (You can also get close enough to the castle to

appreciate the building, and get a good photo, before you reach the ticket

gates.)

If Himeji-jō looks too good to be that old, it’s because it underwent an

extensive five-year renovation prior to reopening in 2014. And if it looks

familiar, it’s because it often appears in films, such as Kurosawa Akira’s Seven

Samurai (1954) and Ran (1985).

Kōkō-en

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 好古園; 68 Hon-machi; adult/child ¥300/150, combination ticket with Himeji-jō ¥1040/360; h9am-6pm May-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Apr)

This is a modern recreation of an Edo-era samurai residence, with a lovely

strolling garden complete with a central pond (filled with koi) and a teahouse

( matcha ¥500). The layout and building design were based on archaeological

excavation of the original residence.

4 Sleeping

Himeji is an easy day trip from any of Kansai’s big cities, or on your way

to/from points west – though if you stay over you can get an early start and

avoid the crowds somewhat (and see the castle lit up at night). There are many

hotels (from budget to three star) around JR Himeji Station, mostly on the

south side.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji

BUSINESS HOTEL

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ダイワロイネットホテル姫路; %079-287-0655;

www.daiwaroynet.jp/himeji; 353 Ekimae-chō; s/d from ¥5600/9900; naW)

In addition to being new (it opened in early 2018), this business hotel has a few

other appealing things: walk-in showers (that are more accessible than the

usual tub-shower combos); a fitness centre (albeit tiny); and a location on the

north (castle) side of JR Himeji Station.

5 Eating & Drinking

Finding food in Himeji is easy: there are tons of options (with tourist-friendly

English or picture menus) in the train station, along the main road to the castle

and in the covered arcades between the two. Be sure to try some local sake

here.

Nadagiku Kappa-tei

SHOKUDO, IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 灘菊かっぱ亭; %079-221-3573; www.nadagiku.co.jp/gourmet/nadagiku; 58

Higashi-ekimae-chō, Omizo-suji Shopping Arcade; set lunch ¥700-860, oden per piece ¥160-250, small

plates ¥380-980; h11.30am-2pm & 4.30-9.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 11.30am-9.30pm Sat, to 8.30pm

Sun)

A local sake brewery runs this casual spot specialising in oden (stew

comprising fishcakes, tofu, vegetables and eggs simmered in kelp-flavoured

broth), and other dishes that naturally pair well with sake. Choose a simple set

at lunch (picture menu only) or visit in the evening to order à la carte. Look for

the sake barrels out the front.

Hanamoto Coffee

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; はまもとコーヒー; %079-282-2233; www.hamamoto-coffee.com; 49

Nikai-machi; h7am-7pm Fri-Wed)

Both locals and out-of-towners agree that this cafe (running since 1975) is the

place for coffee (freshly ground and siphon brewed, from ¥430) in Himeji.

Come before 11am and your drink order will arrive with a hard-boiled egg and

toast at no extra charge. But most customers order extra ‘almond-butter’ toast

(¥450) anyway.

Kokoromi

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; こころみ; %079-280-6172; Vierra Arcade, 125 Minami-ekimae; sake ¥110-1250; h1-9pm Tue-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun)

It’s all about local sake at this modern, sophisticated standing bar, which stocks

270 varieties from Hyōgo, Himeji’s prefecture. Touch screens let you search

and order in English by taste, price and grade (search West Harima for Himeji),

and your 65mL pour comes with an English explanation card and a picture of

the bottle for future reference.

It’s in the Vierra arcade; from JR Himeji Station follow signs out the east

exit until you can’t go any further and hang a right to enter the arcade.

8 Information

Himeji Tourist Information Office (姫路市観光案内所; %079-287-0003; Ground fl,

Himeji Station; h9am-7pm) English maps and info. You may be able to book a

volunteer Englishspeaking guide here, if the relevant desk is staffed.

8 Getting There & Away

Himeji is a stop on the San-yō shinkansen (bullet train), with connections to

Shin-Kōbe (¥2700, 25 minutes), Shin-Osaka (¥3220, 35 minutes) and Kyoto

(¥4750, 55 minutes) to the east, and Okayama (¥3220, 35 minutes) and

Hiroshima (¥7770, one hour) to the west.

The fastest trains ( shinkaisoku) on the ordinary JR Kōbe line travel to

Kōbe’s Sannomiya Station (¥970, 40 minutes), Osaka (¥1490, one hour) and

Kyoto (¥2270, 1½ hours).

Long-distance buses to Tokyo (Shinjuku Bus Terminal; ¥8000, 10 hours)

leave from the Highway Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

8 Getting Around

Himeji’s attractions are a straight, flat 15-minute walk from the north side of

JR Himeji Station. Arrive early to score one of the limited free rental bicycles

offered at Harima Cycle Station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; はりまサイクルステー

ション; %079-283-0006; h9.30am-6pm) (which also has a left-luggage service).

The retro-looking Himeji Castle Loop Bus runs from bus stop 6 ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ) on the north side of JR Himeji Station to the castle, Kōkō-en and back (single ride/day pass ¥100/300; children half-price) every 30 minutes

from 9am to 5pm daily March to November and at weekends December to

February. Purchase passes from the Shinki Bus Information Desk ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 神姫バス案内所; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-7pm Sat, to 6pm Sun). The pass nets you a 20% discount on entry to sights (but does not apply to the

already discounted combination ticket to the castle and gardens).

NARA PREFECTURE

History in Nara Prefecture (奈良県, Nara-ken) goes back further even than

Kyoto’s, as it was here in the Yamato basin that the forerunners of Japan’s

ruling Yamato dynasty consolidated power. In the early centuries of their reign

they were building kofun (huge burial mounds for their emperors), some of

which can still be seen today, especially in Asuka.

When the Yamato court finally chose a spot for a permanent capital, they

chose Nara, and while Nara’s time as capital was short, its cultural legacy was

enormous. It was here that Buddhism first flourished in Japan, and the city’s

fantastic repository of temples and Buddhist art attests to that fact (Nara

remains a thriving metropolis today).

In the southern reaches of the prefecture, Yoshino is a mountain hamlet with

some sights of serious historic and cultural significance, but it’s still better

known as Japan’s most famous cherry-blossom-viewing spot.

History

Until the 7th century the young Japanese empire had no permanent capital, as

Shintō taboos concerning death stipulated that the capital be moved with the

passing of each emperor. This practice changed under the influence of

Buddhism and with the Taika reforms of 646. The court decreed that a

permanent capital be built; two locations were tried before one was finally

established at Nara (then known as Heijōkyō) in 710. ‘Permanent’ status,

however, lasted a mere 75 years. When a priest named Dōkyō seduced an

empress and nearly usurped the throne, it was decided to move the court out of

reach of Nara’s increasingly powerful clergy. The new capital was eventually

established at Kyoto, about 35km north.

Although brief, the Nara period was extraordinarily vigorous in its

absorption of influences from China, laying the foundations of Japanese

culture. Except for an assault on the area by the Taira clan in the 12th century,

Nara was spared the periodic bouts of destruction wreaked on Kyoto, and a

number of magnificent buildings have survived.

4 Sleeping

Nara city has a great spread of accommodation across budgets, but the

surrounding regions have fewer options (or none at all). It’s best to base

yourself in Nara and see the other sights as day trips. The exception is Yoshino,

which has some nice inns – and if you’re going to the trouble of visiting, it’s

worth staying there overnight.

5 Eating

Nara city has plenty of dining options. Outside the city, simple lunches are

reasonably easy to find: towns with attractions have shokudō (all-round,

inexpensive restaurants) and many of the major temples and shrines have snack

stalls and teahouses lining their approaches. However, most places shut after

dark; you’ll have to work your way back to the nearest transit hub to find

restaurants open for dinner.

The region has a long history of sake brewing, and Nara-style cuisine often

uses sake lees (the leftover bits after brewing), which give a heady umami taste

to pickles, marinated dishes, soups and hot pots. Another local speciality is

kakinoha-zushi (individual pieces of sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves –

don’t eat the leaf!). This dish is especially associated with Yoshino (though

you’ll see it all over), as are gelatinous sweets made from the ground roots of

kudzu (aka arrowroot).

8 Getting There & Around

Nara city is easily accessible by both JR and private Kintetsu-line trains from

Kyoto and Osaka.

It’s possible to access a lot of Nara Prefecture, even rural and mountain

sights, via a combination of trains and buses, though having a car is convenient

and more efficient, as local buses run infrequently.

The Kintetsu network is more thorough than JR, so not everywhere will be

accessible by JR Pass. Useful JR stations include Sakurai (JR Man-yō

Mahoroba line from Nara; transfer to the Kintetsu Osaka line) and Yoshino-

guchi (JR Wakayama line; for travel to Yoshino).

Key Kintetsu hubs include Yamato-Saidaiji (Nara, Kyoto and Kashihara

lines), Yamato-Yagi (Osaka and Kashihara lines) and Kashiharajingū-mae

(Kashihara and Yoshino lines).

Nara Kōtsū (www.narakotsu.co.jp) runs the bus network. The Kintetsu

Nara Bus Information Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun) is particularly helpful, with English-speaking staff who can help you with

rural routes and schedules before you set out.

Nara 奈良

%0742 / POP 357,400

Japan’s first permanent capital, Nara (奈良) is one of the country’s most

rewarding destinations. The biggest draw is the aweinspiring Daibutsu (Great

Buddha), a towering effigy first cast in the 8th century. Historically important

temples and shrines house treasures of Buddhist art, and more can be found in

the excellent Nara National Museum. All of this occupies a compact area in

and around Nara-kōen, a large, grassy park home to many (somewhat) tame

deer.

Nara is popular as a day trip from Kyoto or Osaka – there’s just enough time

to see the highlights. If you stay longer, you can visit one or more of the

temples on the city’s outskirts (less crowded but no less rewarding), stroll

through the old merchant district of Naramachi and really immerse yourself in

early Japanese history, art and architecture, for which Nara is famous.

Nara

1 Top Sights

1 Kasuga Taisha

F3

2 Nara National Museum

D2

3 Tōdai-ji

E1

1 Sights

4 Hokke-dō

F1

5 Isui-en & Neiraku Art Museum

E2

6 Kōfuku-ji

C2

7 Kōfuku-ji Five-Storey Pagoda

C2

8 Kōfuku-ji National Treasure Museum

C2

9 Kōfuku-ji Three-Storey Pagoda

C2

10 Kōfuku-ji Tōkondō

C2

11 Naramachi Kōshi-no-Ie

C4

12 Nigatsu-dō

F1

13 Ni-no-Torii

F3

14 Tōdai-ji Museum

E1

15 Tōdai-ji Nandai-mon

E2

16 Wakamiya-jinja

G3

17 Yoshiki-en

D2

4 Sleeping

18 Guesthouse Makura

C3

19 Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

D1

20 Guesthouse Sakuraya

C4

21 Hotel Nikkō Nara

A3

22 Nara Hotel

D3

23 Ryokan Matsumae

C3

24 Wakasa Bettei

D1

5 Eating

Hirasō

(see 18)

25 Kameya

C3

26 Kura

C3

27 Washokuya Happoh

C2

28 Yumekaze Plaza

E2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

29 Mizuya-chaya

F2

30 Nara Izumi Yūsai

C3

7 Shopping

31 Ikeda Gankōdō

B2

32 Nipponichi

C3

33 Yu Nakagawa Honten

C3

8 Information

Kintetsu Nara Station Information Office

(see 27)

34 Nara City Tourist Information Center

A3

35 Nara Visitor Center & Inn

C3

8 Transport

36 JR Nara Bus Information Centre

A3

37 JR Nara Bus Stop 4

A3

38 JR Nara Bus Stop 6

A3

39 Kintetsu Nara Bus Information Centre

C2

40 Kintetsu Nara Bus Stop 20

C2

41 Kintetsu Nara Bus Stop 8

B2

1 Sights

Nara retains its 8th-century Chinese-style grid pattern of streets. There are two

main train stations: JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara. JR Nara Station is a little west

of the city centre (but still within walking distance of the sights), while

Kintetsu Nara is right in the centre of town. The main sights are clustered in

and around Nara-kōen (奈良公園), east of Kintetsu Nara Station, and are

easily walkable.

o Tōdai-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東大寺; www.todaiji.or.jp; 406-1 Zōshi-chō; Daibutsu-den adult/child

¥600/300; hDaibutsu-den 7.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar)

Nara’s star attraction is its Daibutsu (Great Buddha), one of the largest

bronze statues in the world. It was unveiled in 752, upon the completion of the

Daibutsu-den (大仏殿, Great Buddha Hall), built to house it. Both have been

damaged over the years; the present statue was recast in the Edo period. The

Daibutsu-den is the largest wooden building in the world; incredibly, the

present structure, rebuilt in 1709, is a mere two-thirds of the size of the

original.

The Daibutsu stands just over 16m high and consists of 437 tonnes of bronze

and 130kg of gold. It is an image of Dainichi Nyorai (also known as Vairocana

Buddha), the cosmic Buddha believed to give rise to all worlds and their

respective Buddhas. Historians believe that Emperor Shōmu ordered the

building of the Buddha as a charm against smallpox, which ravaged Japan in

preceding years. Over the centuries the statue took quite a beating from

earthquakes and fires, losing its head a couple of times (note the slight

difference in colour between the head and the body).

As you circle the statue towards the back, you’ll see a wooden column with

a hole through its base. Popular belief maintains that those who can squeeze

through the hole, which is exactly the same size as one of the Great Buddha’s

nostrils, are assured of enlightenment. There’s usually a line of children

waiting to give it a try and parents standing ready to snap their picture. A hint

for bigger ‘kids’: try going through with one or both arms above your head –

someone on either end to push and pull helps, too.

Except for the Daibutsu-den, most of Tōdai-ji’s grounds can be visited free.

Don’t miss Tōdai-ji Nandai-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東大寺南大門, South Gate), which houses recently restored wooden images, carved in the 13th

century by famed sculptor Unkei, are among the finest examples of guardian

statues in the country – dynamic and full of character, with dramatic

musculature.

For a deep dive on the temple’s history and to see some of its important

artwork and relics, visit the Tōdai-ji Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東大寺

ミュージアム; %0742-20-5511; 100 Suimon-chō; ¥600, joint ticket with Daibutsu-den ¥1000;

h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar).

o Nara National Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奈良国立博物館, Nara Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan; %050-5542-8600;

www.narahaku.go.jp; 50 Noboriōji-chō; ¥520, special exhibitions ¥1100-1420; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) This world-class museum of Buddhist art is divided into two sections. Built in

1894 and strikingly renovated in 2016, the Nara Buddhist Sculpture Hall &

Ritual Bronzes Gallery displays a rotating selection of about 100 butsu-zō

(statues of Buddhas and bodhisattvas) at any one time, about half of which are

National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties. Chinese bronzes in the

ritual bronzes gallery date as far back as the 15th century BC. Each image has

detailed English explanations.

The newer east and west wings, a short walk away, contain the permanent

collections (sculptures, paintings and calligraphy) and also host special

exhibitions.

Particularly noteworthy is the fall special exhibition featuring the artefacts

from Shōsō-in Hall, which holds the treasures of Tōdai-ji. The exhibits include

priceless items from the cultures along the Silk Road. This exhibit (admission

¥1100) is well worth it, but be prepared for crowds.

It’s free to enter the underground passageway connecting the wings, where

wall displays explain in detail the history, the making process and the

symbolism of different styles of Buddhist sculpture – a good primer for

appreciating Nara’s sights.

o Kasuga Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 春日大社; www.kasugataisha.or.jp; 160 Kasuganochō; h6am-6pm Apr-Sep, 6.30am-5pm Oct-Mar) F

Founded in the 8th century, this sprawling shrine at the foot of Mikasa-yama

was created to protect the new capital, Nara. It was ritually rebuilt every 20

years, according to Shintō tradition, until the late 19th century and is still kept

in pristine condition. Many of its buildings are painted vermilion, in bold

contrast to the cedar roofs and surrounding greenery. The corridors are lined

with hundreds of lanterns, which are illuminated during the twice-yearly

Mantōrō lantern festival.

Every morning at 9am (except for festival days), the public is welcome to

observe the chōhai (morning prayer service), held in the Naoraiden (Ceremony

Hall).

There are several subshrines around the main hall. It’s worth walking a few

minutes south to the nearby subshrine of Wakamiyajinja (若宮神社).

Kōfuku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 興福寺; www.kohfukuji.com; grounds free, Tōkondō ¥300, National Treasure Museum ¥600, combined ticket ¥800; hgrounds 24hr, Tōkondō 9am-5pm)

Kōfuku-ji was founded in Kyoto in 669 and relocated here in 710. The original

Nara temple complex had 175 buildings, though much has been lost over the

years to fires and periods of medieval warfare. Of those that remain, the most

impressive are the Tōkondō (東金堂; Eastern Golden Hall; adult/child ¥300/100) and the

temple’s two pagodas: the three-storey pagoda (三重塔) dates to 1181 and is a

rare example of Heian-era architecture, while the 50.1m five-storey pagoda

(五重塔), last reconstructed in 1426, is Japan’s second-tallest pagoda.

The Tōkondō is a National Treasure dating from 726; rebuilt in 1415 (but

paying homage to older structures), it houses several important Buddhist

statues. The temple’s Chūkondō (Central Golden Hall) was rebuilt in 2018 –

the first time it had been properly rebuilt since it burned down for the seventh

time in 1717; that said, it does look a bit out of place among Kōfuku-ji’s more

historic structures.

The temple grounds are free to visit, though admission is required to enter

some of the structures. If you have to pick just one, make it the Kōfuku-ji

National Treasure Museum ( MAP ; 国宝館; adult/child ¥700/300), which houses the

most outstanding pieces of the temple’s vast collection of art.

Isui-en & Neiraku Art Museum

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 依水園・寧楽美術館; 74 Suimon-chō; museum & garden adult/child

¥900/300; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Dec-Mar & Jun-Sep, daily Apr, May, Oct & Nov)

Isui-en is an elegant garden in two parts: one created in the 17th century, in the

style of an Edo-period (1603–1868) strolling garden, and another added in the

early 20th century. Both make fantastic use of the technique of shakkei

(borrowed scenery), incorporating the mountains behind Kasuga Taisha into

the design. For ¥850 you can have matcha (powdered green tea) and a Japanese

sweet in the teahouse. Admission covers the adjoining Neiraku Art Museum,

displaying Chinese and Korean ceramics and bronzes.

DON’T MISS

NARAMACHI

South of Sanjō-dōri and Sarusawa-ike pond, Naramachi (奈良町) is a traditional neighbourhood

with many well-preserved machiya (shophouses) and kura (storehouses), including some business

that have been around for generations. Usually uncrowded, it’s a nice area to wander around.

Check out Naramachi Kōshi-no-Ie ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ならまち格子の家; %0742-23-4820; 44 Gangōji-chō; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) F, a well-preserved machiya with lattice front,

beamed ceilings, old kitchen, tansu (chest of drawers) stairs and inner garden. It’s an excellent

place to explore details of traditional Japanese architecture; an English-language leaflet is

available.

Yoshiki-en

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 吉城園; %0742-22-5911; 60-1 Noboriōji-chō; ¥250, non-Japanese free; h9am-5pm, closed last 2 weeks Feb)

This garden was once part of Kofuku-ji and since 1919 has been a public

garden, laid out in traditional fashion along paths around a pond. Most

attractive is the moss garden with its teahouse. Admission is waived for foreign

guests who show their passports.

DON’T MISS

BEST TEMPLES & SHRINES

A Tōdai-ji

A Oku-no-in

A Ise-jingū

A Kumano Hongū Taisha

A Kasuga Taisha

T Tours

Nara Walk

TOURS

(奈良ウォーク; %090-9708-0036; www.narawalk.com; hMar-Nov or by appointment)

Nara Walk does a popular three-hour morning tour with English-speaking

guides around the highlights of Nara-kōen (Tōdai-ji, Kasuga Taisha etc;

adult/child ¥3000/1000); meet at 10am in front of JR Nara Station (no booking

required). It also offers a two-hour afternoon stroll around Naramachi

(adult/child ¥2000/free; booking required), and custom tours on request.

YMCA Goodwill Guides

TOURS

(%0742-45-5920; http://eggnara.tripod.com; h9.30am-1pm Mon-Fri)

Knowledgeable, English-speaking volunteer guides, keen to help you get the

most out of your visit to Nara. Contact them to book.

z Festivals & Events

Shuni-e Ceremony

CULTURAL

(hearly Mar)

During this fire festival the monks of Tōdai-ji parade huge, flaming torches

around the balcony of Nigatsu-dō for 10 nights straight, raining embers on

spectators to purify them. On the following day they draw water from the

temple well and at 2am (early on the final day) offer it to Kannon (the Buddhist

goddess of mercy) and the public.

Yamayaki

CULTURAL

(Grass-Burning Festival; h6pm 4th Sat Jan)

Though the origins of this festival are unclear (it’s possibly a nod to a long-ago

feud between the monks of Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji), Nara’s three big religious

institutions, Tōdai-ji, Kōfuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha, come together to set alight

Wakakusa-yama; a fireworks display follows. The whole city glows (and then

the local fire brigade puts out the fire).

Mantōrō

CULTURAL

(Lantern Festival; ¥500; h5.30-8.30pm 3 Feb, 7-9.30pm 14 & 15 Aug)

On 3 February, also known as Setsubun (the first day of spring on the old lunar

calendar), Kasuga Taisha lights each and every one of its 3000 stone and

bronze lanterns – it’s unbelievably atmospheric. The festival is held again in

August for O-Bon (a Buddhist observance honouring ancestral spirits).

Takigi Nō

DANCE

(hMay)

Open-air performances of nō (stylised dance-drama) are held after dark by the

light of blazing torches at Kōfuku-ji (on the third Friday of May) and Kasuga

Taisha (on the third Friday and Saturday of May).

4 Sleeping

Many travellers pressed for time visit Nara as a day trip, but staying a night

here is recommended: you’ll have an early start on the day trippers at the main

sights. There are lots of good accommodation options in all price ranges, and

especially for budget travellers.

o Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゲストハウス 奈良バックパッカーズ; %0742-22-4557;

www.nara-backpackers.com; 31 Yurugi-chō; dm ¥2400, s/d without bathroom ¥5800/7600; naW) An utterly charming stay in a traditional 1920s building, which was once a tea

master’s home. Choose from bunk-bed dorms or five different-size private

tatami-mat rooms, some with garden views. Bathing facilities are shared (bring

your own toiletries and towel, or buy or rent them here), and there’s a shared

kitchen for self-caterers.

Children under 10 years are not permitted, to preserve the home’s shōji

(sliding paper doors) and antique glass windows. It’s about eight minutes on

foot from Kintetsu Nara Station.

Guesthouse Makura

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; ゲストハウス枕; %0742-24-2279; www.guesthouse-makura.com; 27-1 Imamikado-chō; dm/s/d ¥2500/3500/7000; naW)

In Naramachi and close to the sights, Guesthouse Makura occupies a 90-year-

old wooden machiya (shophouse). It’s been lightly renovated but retains much

of the flavour of an old Japanese house (which may charm or annoy you: the

walls are thin). But it’s very well maintained and the English-speaking owner

goes out of his way to make guests feel at home.

Wakasa Bettei

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 和鹿彩別邸; %0742-23-5858; www.n-wakasa.com; 1 Kita-handahigashi-

machi; r per person with/without 2 meals from ¥25,920/9720; naW)

This friendly, contemporary ryokan (inn) aims to please. The 11 stylish, large

Japanese- and Western-style rooms have private facilities, including a stone or

wooden bathtub, and the top-floor common bath has views of Tōdaiji and

Wakakusa-yama. The newer Bettei is a better choice than the original (though

still friendly) Hotel New Wakasa next door.

Guesthouse Sakuraya

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 桜舎; %0742-24-1490; www.guesthousesakuraya.com; 1 Narukawa-chō; s/d incl breakfast & without bathroom ¥6200/10,400; naW)

In a 160-year-old machiya (shophouse) with a courtyard garden, this quiet,

atmospheric spot beautifully integrates both traditional and contemporary

design. There are only three rooms (book early); one room has a toilet. The

English-speaking owner offers cultural experiences (tea tasting, calligraphy

and kimono wearing, for example) upon request. Wi-fi in the lobby only.

Ryokan Matsumae

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館松前; %0742-22-3686; www.matsumae.co.jp; 28-1 Higashi-terabayashi-chō; s with/without bathroom ¥10,800/5400, d ¥12,960/10,800; naiW)

This welcoming little ryokan, conveniently located in Naramachi, has

Japanese-style rooms with toilets (and some with bathroom). It’s warm, homey

and well maintained. A Japanese or Western breakfast is available for an

additional ¥970.

You can also book one-hour calligraphy lessons (¥1000 per person) and, on

most Mondays, catch a practice performance of kyōgen (traditional comic

drama) in the ryokan’s hall.

Hotel Nikkō Nara

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテル日航奈良; %0742-35-8831; www.nikkonara.jp; 8-1 Sanjō-honmachi; s from ¥12,700, d & tw from ¥22,000; naW)

Japan’s Nikkō chain always delivers a comfortable, smooth stay and this

location is no different. It’s conveniently connected to JR Nara Station by a

pedestrian bridge and also has a big common bath (in addition to the en suites)

and a small fitness centre.

Nara Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奈良ホテル; %0742-26-3300; www.narahotel.co.jp; 1096 Takabatake-chō; s/tw from ¥15,310/22,520; pnaiW)

Founded in 1909, this grande dame has hosted everyone from Edward VIII and

Albert Einstein to Audrey Hepburn and the Dalai Lama. It retains a Meiji-era

style in its traditional exterior, high ceilings, gorgeous woodwork, refined

Japanese and Western restaurants, a tea lounge and beautifully landscaped

grounds. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, with big beds, though some

have cramped bathrooms.

For historic atmosphere and all nonsmoking rooms, choose the Honkan

(main building) over the Shinkan (new building). Rates can vary wildly by

season.

5 Eating

The greatest selection of restaurants is around Nara Kintetsu Station.

Kura

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 蔵; %0742-22-8771; 16 Kōmyōin-chō; dishes ¥100-1000; h5-10pm)

This popular spot in Naramachi is styled like an old storehouse and has just 16

seats around a counter amid dark-wood panels and an old beer sign. Indulge in

mini-katsu (mini pork cutlets), yakitori and oden. Reservations recommended;

it’s often full.

Kameya

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かめや; %0742-22-2434; 9 Tarui-chō; mains ¥650-1400; h11am-10pm Wed-Mon)

With its red lanterns and plastic food models out the front, Kameya doesn’t

look like anything special, but the okonomiyaki at this casual restaurant –

running since the 1960s – is actually pretty good. Try the house special

‘inakappe’, a pancake stuffed with udon noodles and prawns. Staff are friendly

and speak English.

Hirasō

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; 平宗; %0742-22-0866; www.hiraso.jp; 30-1 Imamikado-chō; sushi dishes ¥970-1450, lunch sets ¥1350-2300, dinner sets ¥2650-4200; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun)

A good place to sample local Nara specialities like kakinoha-zushi and

chagayu (rice porridge made with roasted green tea). Look for the lattice-wood

front.

It also has a kiosk in front of JR Nara Station selling kakinoha-zushi bentō

(boxed meals; from ¥1000); as this form of sushi was originally a preservation

technique it lasts for up to three days – perfect to take along on trips into rural

Nara Prefecture.

Washokuya Happoh

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 和食屋八寳; %0742-26-4834; www.happoh.com; 22 Higashimuki-nakamachi; lunch set meals ¥950-1380, dinner set meals from ¥3000, à la carte dishes ¥380-2800;

h11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

A reliable choice offering a variety of dishes, from sashimi to tempura to

noodles to wagyū. Try its speciality: dishes marinated in sake lees. The place is

big enough for you to be able to get a table (and lunch is, generously, served

until 4pm); ingredients are listed on the menu to help diners with allergies or

dietary restrictions.

Look for the wooden beams on your right, inside the Higashimuki Arcade, a

short walk south of Kintetsu Nara Station.

Yumekaze Plaza

FOOD HALL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 夢風ひろば; %0742-25-0870; www.yume-kaze.com; 16 Kasugano-chō;

hhours vary; W)

Adjacent to Nara-kōen and across from the Nara National Museum, this

convenient collection of a dozen restaurants and cafes offers a variety of dishes

(mostly Japanese, but also sandwiches and sweets). Most places serve lunch

and dinner.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Mizuya-chaya

TEAHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 水谷茶屋; %0742-22-0627; www.mizuyachaya.com; 30 Kasugano-chō; h10am-4pm Thu-Tue)

In a small, wooded, brookside clearing between Nigatsu-dō and Kasuga Taisha,

this quaint thatched-roof teahouse is one of Nara’s most atmospheric spots.

Stop by for a cup of matcha (¥700 including a sweet), onigiri (rice balls; ¥350

to ¥400) or a bowl of udon (¥580 to ¥850).

In warm seasons, sit outside among the greenery and enjoy kakigōri (shaved

ice with toppings of condensed milk, sweet red beans or fruit-flavoured

syrups).

Nara Izumi Yūsai

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; なら泉勇斎; %0742-26-6078; www.naraizumi.jp; 22 Nishi-Terabayashi-chō; h11am-8pm Wed-Tue)

Drop in on this small standing bar in Naramachi for tastings (¥200 to ¥600) of

sakes produced in Nara Prefecture (120 varieties from 29 makers, also

available for purchase). There’s a useful English explanation sheet.

7 Shopping

Yu Nakagawa Honten

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP ; 遊中川本店; %0742-22-1322; 31-1 Ganrin-chō; h10am-6pm)

Nara’s famed 300-year-old linen producer now creates beautiful bags, pouches

and scarves out of natural materials, subtly adorned with traditional motifs. It’s

easy to miss, with no obvious sign; look for the building fronted by wooden

lattice.

It also runs Nipponichi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本市; %0742-23-5650; 1-1 Tsunofuri-shinyamachi; h10am-7pm), which sells less expensive tea towels and totes with cute

Nara-themed designs (lots of deer).

Ikeda Gankōdō

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 池田含香堂; 16 Tsunofuri-chō; h9am-7pm, closed Mon Sep-Mar) This sixth-generation fan maker sells Nara-style uchiwa, paddle-style fans

whose washi (Japanese handmade paper) covering has been intricately carved

with local and nature scenes. Their silk backing makes them surprisingly

durable. Prices run from ¥2000 to ¥25,000.

2 Town Walk

Nara-kōen

START TŌDAI-JI’S NANDAI-MON

END KŌFUKU-JI

LENGTH 5KM; HALF A DAY

Get as early a start as possible to beat the crowds, and head straight for Tōdai-ji’s 1 Nandai-mon, a

15-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station. Pause to admire the impressive Niō (guardian) statues

– possibly the most impressive anywhere – and then continue to Nara’s star attraction, 2 Tōdai-ji,

or rather its Daibutsu-den, where the enormous Daibutsu (Great Buddha) holds court as it has done

for more than 1250 years.

Exit to the east of the Daibutsu-den and follow the road until you see a path (and a sign) pointing

up a hill to 3 Nigatsu-dō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 二月堂; F). Climb the steps to enjoy the view from the verandah, taking in the graceful curves of the Daibutsu-den and the Nara plain. Then

continue to check out the adjacent 4 Hokke-dō ( MAP ), the oldest building on the grounds of Tōdai-ji.

From here, look for a path that runs south; there should be a shrine, Tamukeyama-hachimangū,

on your left. Follow this past Wakakusa-yama (also on the left) until you see a set of descending

stairs; take these. Now you should come to a clearing in the woods, where you can stop for tea and

sweets at 5 Mizuya-chaya.

Continue south, following signs to 6 Kasuga Taisha, Nara’s principal shrine, a bright-vermilion

beacon of colour bedecked with lanterns. Leave the shrine via the main entrance and bear left up

the path to 7 Wakamiya-jinja ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), passing several small shrines on the way.

Retrace your steps towards Kasuga Taisha and take a left down the steps that lead back towards

the centre of town. You’ll pass first through 8 Ni-no-Torii ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ), a large Shintō

shrine gate, and then continue down the broad, wooded arcade to 9 Ichi-no-Torii, another shrine

gate. Cross the street and you’ll soon see a Kōfuku-ji’s five-storey pagoda. Finish with a wander

around the temple’s grounds, which have several historic structures, such as the b Hokuen-dō and

the c Three-Storey Pagoda – the temple’s two oldest structures. From here you can walk back to

Kintetsu Nara Station in less than 10 minutes.

8 Information

Nara has several TICs with English-speaking staff, maps and more

Kintetsu Nara Station Information Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-24-4858; h9am-9pm; W) In front of Kintetsu Nara Station (near the top of the stairs above

exit 3 from the station).

Nara City Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奈良市観光セン

ター; %0742-22-3900; h9am-9pm) Located in the old Nara Station building just

outside the east exit of JR Nara Station. This is the city’s main tourist-

information centre. You can store luggage here (¥600 per piece per day;

counter open 9am to 7pm).

Nara Visitor Center & Inn ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 奈良県猿沢イン; Nara-ken Sarusawa Inn; %0742-81-7461; www.sarusawa.nara.jp; 3 Ikeno-chō; h8am-9pm) On the southern side of Sarusawa-ike, with lots of useful info and free luggage storage. It also

offers cultural experiences, including free origami lessons and, on Wednesday,

a 45-minute tea ceremony (¥2000 per person).

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Highway and limousine bus tickets can be purchased at Kintetsu Nara Bus

Information Centre or JR Nara Bus Information Centre ( MAP ; h8am-8pm Mon-

Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun). These buses depart from stop 4, in front of JR Nara

Station’s east exit, and from stop 20, across the street from Kintetsu Nara

Station.

To/From Tokyo

An overnight bus (from ¥6000, seven to eight hours) runs between Shinjuku

Bus Terminal in Tokyo and both JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara Stations. See Nara

Kōtsū (www.narakotsu.co.jp) for details.

To/From Kansai International Airport

Nara Kōtsū (www.narakotsu.co.jp) operates a limousine bus service between

Nara and Kansai International Airport (¥2050, one to 1½ hours, hourly).

Tickets can be purchased at the airport upon arrival.

TRAIN

To/From Kyoto

The Kintetsu Nara line is the fastest and most-convenient connection between

Kyoto (Kintetsu Kyoto Station, in Kyoto Station) and central Nara (Kintetsu

Nara Station). Comfortable, all-reserved tokkyū (limited-express) trains (¥1130,

35 minutes) run directly; kyūkō (express) trains (¥620, 50 minutes) usually

require a change at Yamato-Saidaiji. For JR Pass holders, kaisoku (rapid) trains

on the JR Nara line connect JR Kyoto Station with JR Nara Station (¥710, 45

minutes, several departures per hour).

To/From Osaka

The Kintetsu Nara line connects Osaka (Namba Station) with Nara (Kintetsu

Nara Station; ¥560, 45 minutes). All-reserved tokkyū trains take five minutes

less but cost almost double.

For JR Pass holders, the JR Yamatoji line links JR Nara Station with Osaka

via kaisoku trains (Namba Station ¥560, 45 minutes; Tennō-ji Station ¥470, 30

minutes).

8 Getting Around

To skip the 15-minute walk between JR Nara Station and the temple and shrine

districts (about five minutes from Kintetsu Nara Station), take the bus (¥210

per ride). Two circular bus routes cover the Nara-kōen area: bus 1

(anticlockwise) and bus 2 (clockwise). For more than two trips, a one-day Nara

Park Nishinokyō pass costs ¥500; purchase it at either bus centre. On Saturday,

Sunday and holidays, a tourist-friendly Gurutto Bus covers major sights (¥100

per ride) several times per hour from about 9am to 5pm.

Bus 98, for Tōshōdai-ji, Yakushi-ji and Hōryū-ji, departs from stop 8 at Nara

Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara Station for Hōryū-ji-mae (65 minutes,

hourly).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

YAMA-NO-BE-NO-MICHI

A fascinating ramble through rural Nara Prefecture, Yama-no-be-no-michi ( MAP ; 山辺の道)

covers a lot of ground, both literally (13km, walkable in about four hours, plus stopping time) and

figuratively: you’ll pass by rice paddies and orchards, shrines and temples, the 1300-year-old

tombs of ancient emperors and honesty stalls selling fruit and vegetables. The walk starts at

JR/Kintetsu Tenri station and ends at JR Miwa Station.

Just outside Tenri Station, stop in at CoFuFun ( MAP ; コフフン; %0743-63-1001; 803

Kawaharajō-cho, Tenri-shi; h9am-5pm; W), the visitor centre that was designed by hip Tokyo firm

nendo and riffs on the appearance of the region’s ancient kofun (burial mounds), to pick up an

English map. (The path is fairly well signposted in English, but you might want to pick up a

Japanese map, too.) Then head for the shopping arcade clearly labeled Tenri Main St; follow this

and some more road until you hit Isonokami-jingū (石上神宮) and the start of the trail, which is a

mixture of paved path and packed earth, with only gentle ups and downs.

Of all the shrines and temples on the route it’s the final one, Ōmiwa-jinja ( MAP ; 大神神社;

%0744-42-6633; 1422 Miwa, Sakurai-shi), that is the most impressive. It’s believed to be one of

Japan’s oldest Shintō shrines and is the official protector of sake breweries. After the shrine,

sample nyūmen (にぅめん), a Miwa speciality of sōmen (very thin wheat noodles) in a hot broth,

at Sōmen-dokoro Morishō ( MAP ; そうめん處 森正; %0744-43-7411; 535 Miwa, Sakurai-shi;

noodles ¥850-1000; h10am-4.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat & Sun, closed irregularly),

on a side street just off the main shrine approach. From here it’s a five-minute walk to JR Miwa

Station.

The JR Man-yō Mahoroba line connects Nara city to both Tenri (¥210, 15 minutes) and Miwa

(¥320, 27 minutes) Stations; trains run once or twice an hour.

Around Nara

Three temples southwest of Nara (in admittedly drab suburbs) take you to the

roots of Buddhism in Japan: Hōryū-ji, Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji. Hōryū-ji is

the most historically significant, though they are all great repositories of early

Buddhist art. And because they’re out of the way they’re much less crowded

than the main sights in Nara city.

Any of this trio of historic temples is worth a trip. If you plan ahead, you can

see all three of them economically in one day. The Nara Park Nishinokyō

Hōryū-ji one-day bus pass (¥1000) covers all the necessary routes. Start early

and head first for the furthest of the three, Hōryū-ji. Bus 98 departs from stop 8

at Nara Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara Station for Hōryū-ji-mae (65

minutes, hourly).

Then work your way back towards Nara to Yakushi-ji, taking bus 97 from

platform 2 at the Hōryū-ji-mae bus stop to Yakushi-ji Higashi-guchi (40

minutes, hourly 9am to 4pm), on the eastern side of the temple. Exit to the

north of the temple’s Kondō (Main Hall; past the Kōdō) and you can walk 10

minutes north to Tōshōdai-ji. Finally, pick up bus 77 or 97 from the Tōshōdai-

ji Higashi-guchi bus stop for JR and Kintetsu Nara Stations (15 to 20 minutes,

every 20 minutes); the last bus leaves at 4.42pm.

Purchase bus passes at the JR Nara Bus Information Centre or the Kintetsu

Nara Bus Information Centre.

Around Nara

1 Top Sights

1 Hōryū-ji

A3

1 Sights

2 Asuka-dera

C6

3 Ishibutai-kofun

C7

4 Ōmiwa-jinja

C5

5 Takamatsuzuka-kofun

B7

6 The Museum, Archaeological Institute of Kashihara

B6

7 Tōshōdai-ji

B1

8 Yakushi-ji

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

9 Yama-no-be-no-michi

C4

5 Eating

10 Sōmen-dokoro Morishō

C5

Yumeichi-chaya

(see 3)

8 Information

Asuka Rent-a-Cycle

(see 12)

11 CoFuFun

C3

12 Tourist Information Center

B7

o Hōryū-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 法隆寺; www.horyuji.or.jp; adult/child ¥1500/750; h8am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Apr) Hōryū-ji was founded in 607 by Prince Shōtoku, considered by many to be the

patron saint of Japanese Buddhism. It’s renowned not only as one of the oldest

temples in Japan but also as a repository for some of the country’s rarest and

most-outstanding examples of early Buddhist sculpture. There’s an entire

gallery of Hōryū-ji treasures at the Tokyo National Museum. Some of the

temple’s buildings are considered to be the world’s oldest existing wooden

structures.

The temple is divided into two parts: Sai-in (West Temple) and Tō-in (East

Temple); pick up a detailed map and guidebook in English. The main approach

proceeds from the south along a tree-lined avenue and through the Nandai-mon

and Chū-mon gates before entering the Sai-in precinct. As you enter, you’ll see

the Kondō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main Hall) on your right (look up to see the fantastic carvings of mythical beasts on the eaves) and a pagoda on your left;

both are considered the oldest of their kind, though they have been repaired

over the years.

The Kondō houses several treasures, including the gilt-bronze triad of the

Buddha Sakyamuni with two attendant bodhisattvas, created in 623 by one of

the leading sculptors of the day; the Buddha’s serene, enigmatic smile is

captivating. There are many more works of art inside the Daihōzō-in (Great

Treasure Hall).

Continue east through the Tōdai-mon to Tō-in. Here the Yumedono (Hall of

Dreams), built in 739 as a place to pray for the repose of Prince Shōtoku’s soul,

houses another famous work of art: the Guze Kannon, a 7th-century sculpture

of the bodhisattva Kannon (Buddhist goddess of mercy) carved from a single

piece of camphor wood and sheathed in gold leaf.

The quickest way to get to Hōryū-ji is by train: take a JR Yamatoji-line train

from JR Nara Station to Hōryū-ji Station (¥220, 11 minutes), then pick up bus

72 (¥180, eight minutes, every 20 minutes 9am to 4.45pm) to Hōryū-ji Sandō,

right at the temple entrance.

Bus 98 departs from stop 8 at Nara Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara

Station for Hōryū-ji-mae (¥760, 65 minutes, hourly 9am to 4pm). Returning to

Nara, take bus 97 from platform 2 at the Hōryū-ji-mae bus stop. To save

money, purchase a Nara Park Nishinokyō Hōryū-ji one-day bus pass (¥1000),

which also includes bus travel to Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji and around Nara.

Yakushi-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 薬師寺; %0742-33-6001; www.nara-yakushiji.com; 457 Nishinokyō; adult/child ¥1100/300; h8.30am-5pm)

Yakushi-ji was established by Emperor Temmu in 680 as a prayer for his ailing

wife (who actually outlived him to accede to the throne). With the exception of

the East Pagoda, which dates to 730 (and is under scaffolding for restoration

until 2020), the present buildings either date from the 13th century or are very

recent reconstructions. Inside, however, are some masterpieces of Buddhist art.

The temple’s Kondō (Main Hall), rebuilt in 1976, houses several images,

including the famous Yakushi Triad (the Yakushi Nyorai – healing Buddha –

flanked by the bodhisattvas of the sun and moon), dating from the 8th century.

The gilt-bronze statues were originally gold, but a fire in the 16th century

turned the images a mellow black. In the Tōin-dō (East Hall), the famous 7th-

century Shō-Kannon image shows the obvious influence of Indian sculptural

styles.

Exit to the north of the temple to walk to Tōshōdai-ji.

By train, take the Kintetsu Nara line to Yamato-Saidaiji Station and transfer

to the Kintetsu Kashihara line to Nishinokyō Station (¥260, 20 minutes). The

temple is about 200m southwest.

Bus 78 departs from stop 8 at Nara Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara

Station for Yakushi-ji (¥350, 20 to 25 minutes, 7am to 4.40pm). Bus 98 also

departs from the same bus stops for Yakushi-ji Chūshajō (¥350, 20 to 25

minutes, hourly), the temple’s parking lot. Returning to Nara, take bus 77 or 97

from the Yakushi-ji Higashi-guchi bus stop, on the eastern side of the temple.

Bus travel to/from Yakushi-ji is covered by the Nara Park Nishinokyō one-day

bus pass (¥500).

Tōshōdai-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 唐招提寺; www.toshodaiji.jp; 13-46 Gojo-chō; adult/child ¥600/200; h8.30am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm)

Tōshōdai-ji was established in 759 by influential Chinese priest Ganjin (Jian

Zhen), recruited by Emperor Shōmu to reform Buddhism in Japan. The main

building, the Kondō (Golden Hall), dates from the 8th century and houses an

impressive 5m-tall Thousand-armed (possibly literally) Kannon (Buddhist

goddess of mercy), among other National Treasures. Behind it, the Kōdō

(Lecture Hall), also built in the 8th century, was actually originally part of

Nara’s Imperial Palace – today it’s all that remains of it.

By train, take the Kintetsu Nara line to Yamato-Saidaiji Station and transfer

to the Kintetsu Kashihara line for Nishinokyō Station (¥260, 20 minutes). The

temple is about 500m north.

Bus 78 departs from stop 8 at Nara Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara

Station for Tōshōdai-ji (¥260, 15 to 20 minutes, twice hourly 7am to 4.40pm).

Bus 98 also departs from the same bus stops for Tōshōdai-ji Higashi-guchi

(¥260, 15 to 20 minutes, hourly), at the temple’s east entrance. Returning to

Nara, take bus 77 or 97 from the Tōshōdai-ji Higashi-guchi bus stop. Bus

travel to/from Tōshōdai-ji is covered by the Nara Park Nishinokyō one-day bus

pass (¥500).

WORTH A TRIP

MURŌ-JI

Secluded in thick forest, Murō-ji (室生寺; %0745-93-2003; www.murouji.or.jp; 78 Murō, Uda-shi; adult/child ¥600/400; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Dec-Mar) is a Shingon temple founded in

the 9th century. It’s nicknamed ‘Women’s Kōya-san’ because, unlike the more famous centre of

Shingon Buddhism, it welcomed female students. The temple’s Kondō (Golden Hall), restored in

the 17th century (and far more humble than the name suggests), holds beautiful Heian-era Buddhist

sculptures with some of their original colouring intact. Some 700 stairs lead further up to the Oku-

no-in, the innermost sanctum.

To get here from Nara by public transport, take the JR Man-yō Mahoroba line to Sakurai (¥320,

30 minutes), change the Kintetsu Osaka line to Murōguchi-ōno Station (¥350, 20 minutes), then

switch to a bus to Murō-ji-mae (¥430, 15 minutes, hourly).

Asuka 飛鳥

%0744 / POP 5340

Asuka (飛鳥; Ahs-ka), about an hour south of Nara, has some of Japan’s best-

preserved kofun, which were commonly built around the Nara basin as tombs

for emperors and powerful nobles between the 3rd and 7th centuries. Asuka is

also the site of what is considered to be Japan’s first Buddhist temple, Asuka-

dera. Now a village spread out over picturesque hills and rice paddies – it’s

strange to imagine that it was once a centre for culture and courtly intrigue –

modern-day Asuka is particularly fun to tour by bicycle. For more context on

the sights, visit The Museum, Archaeological Institute of Kashihara, in nearby

Kashihara.

1 Sights

Takamatsuzuka-kofun

MONUMENT

( MAP ; 高松塚古墳; 439 Hirata, Asuka-mura; museum ¥250; h9am-5pm; p)

This kofun was discovered by accident in the 1960s, painstakingly excavated in

the 1970s and then sealed for preservation. What you’ll see is a grassy mound;

however, in the hall next door you can see reproductions of the frescos found

on the walls of the tomb. The images, especially of the guardian spirits of the

four cardinal directions, are very similar to images found inside Korean and

Chinese burial mounds. There are no clues as to who was buried here.

From the Takamatsuzuka bus stop it’s a short walk up to the burial mound.

You can also walk here from Asuka Station in about 15 minutes.

Ishibutai-kofun

MONUMENT

( MAP ; 石舞台古墳; 254 Shimasho, Asuka-mura; adult/child ¥250/100; h8.30am-5pm; p)

Though other kofun remain covered in earth, Japan’s largest stone burial

chamber is laid bare and you can walk inside. The tomb was looted centuries

ago, and it’s unclear whose remains are interred here, though Soga no Umako,

a powerful member of the influential Soga clan, is a likely candidate (which

would date the tomb to the early 7th century).

Asuka-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 飛鳥寺; %0744-54-2126; 682 Asuka; adult/child ¥350/200; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm

Oct-Mar; p)

Considered the first Buddhist temple in Japan (founded 596), Asuka-dera

houses Japan’s oldest existing Buddhist statue, the Asuka Daibutsu (Great

Buddha), a 15-tonne, seated bronze image of Shakyamuni (the historic

Buddha). Though the temple has been rebuilt multiple times (most recently in

the 19th century, based on archeological evidence), it’s said that the statue has

never been moved from this spot – meaning that many of the greats of Japanese

history have likely stood before it.

The Museum, Archaeological Institute of Kashihara

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 橿原考古学研究所附属博物館; %0744-24-1185;

www.kashikoken.jp/museum/top.html; 50-2 Unebi-chō, Kashihara; Japanese/foreign visitors ¥400/free; h9am-5pm, closed Mon & irregularly; p) F

This museum and research centre is an important visit for students of ancient

Japanese history. Artefacts come from various archaeological sites in the area,

including several kofun, and date as far back as the Jōmon period (10,000 years

ago). Foreign visitors can enter for free (bring your passport); you’ll get a

glossy pamphlet in English that explains the exhibits. It takes about an hour to

see everything.

The museum is a five-minute walk west of Unebi Goryō-mae Station, one

stop before Kashihara-jingū-mae on the Kintetsu Kashihara line.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation is extremely limited out this way; it’s best to visit Asuka as a

day trip from Nara, Osaka or Kyoto.

Scattered around Asuka’s sights are plenty of cafes and restaurants open for

lunch (from around 11am to 3pm). For food outside these hours, head to the

nearest transit hub, Yamato-Yagi (a stop on the Kintetsu Kashihara line).

Yumeichi-chaya

SHOKUDO

¥

( MAP ; 夢市茶屋; %0744-54-9450; 154-3 Shimasho, Asuka-mura; meals ¥860-1080; h11am-4pm

Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; p)

A great spot for lunch in Asuka, above a local produce market and taking

advantage of all those fresh ingredients in home-cooking-style dishes. Try the

kodai-mai gozen lunch plate, which includes an heirloom variety of black rice

and godofu (tofu mixed with kudzu, arrowroot starch). It’s just downhill from

Ishibutai-kofun.

8 Information

MONEY

The nearest ATMs are in Yamato-Yagi.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; %0774-54-3240; https://asukamura.jp; Asuka Station;

h8.30am-5pm; W) Outside Asuka Station (to the left as you exit); pick up an

English map of the area, purchase one-day bus passes or store your luggage

(¥300 per item).

8 Getting There & Away

Asuka Station is on the Kintetsu Yoshino line. Tokkyū trains run to Asuka from

Osaka-Abenobashi (¥1220, 40 minutes) and from Kintetsu Kyoto Station

(¥1860, 65 minutes). Ordinary trains (from Osaka/Kyoto ¥710/960) take 10 to

15 minutes longer and require a transfer at Kashihara-jingū-mae (and maybe at

Yamato Saidaiji as well).

From Nara, take the Kintetsu Nara line two stops to Yamato-Saidaiji and

transfer to the Kintetsu Kashihara line to Kashihara-jingū-mae and then again

to the Kintetsu Yoshino line (¥580, about an hour).

8 Getting Around

A sightseeing bus runs between Asuka Station and the east exit of Kashirahara-

jingū-mae Station, stopping at Takamatsuzuka-kofun (¥190, two minutes),

Ishibutai-kofun (¥270, 15 minutes) and Asuka-dera (Asuka Daibutsu-mae;

¥300, 25 minutes). If you plan to visit more than one sight, the one-day pass

(adult/child ¥650/330) is a good deal.

The best (and most popular) way to tour Asuka (weather permitting) is by

bicycle. The sights are each a few kilometres apart, linked largely by rural

roads, which makes this both totally doable and very pleasant.

Asuka Rent-a-Cycle ( MAP ; 明日香レンタサイクル; %0744-54-3919; http://k-

asuka.com; 13-1 Koshi, Asuka-mura; weekday/weekend ¥900/1000; h9am-5pm) has single-speed

bicycles in adult and child sizes (helmet rental is included for children). There

are several stations around Asuka, including one at Kashihara-jingū-mae

Station, where you can return your bike if you don’t want to do a full loop

(extra charge ¥200). While Asuka is only lightly hilly, you can also rent an

electric-assist bicycle here (¥1500 per day).

Yoshino 吉野

%0746 / POP 7200

At the northern end of the Kii Mountain Range, Yoshino (吉野) is famous

throughout Japan as the country’s number-one spot for cherry-blossom viewing

due to its hito-me-sen-bon (1000 trees at a glance) viewpoint. The mountain

hamlet has also played an outsize role in Japanese history and culture: it was

here that emperor Go-Daigo held his rival southern court during the schism of

the 14th century; even earlier, Yoshino’s temples incubated Japan’s unique

Shugendō religion, a belief system rooted in both Esoteric Buddhism and pre-

Buddhist nature worship, influenced by Taoism and famous for its ascetic

practices. Throughout April, when the cherry trees bloom (in strata along the

slope of the mountain), Yoshino gets very, very crowded; otherwise it’s pretty

sleepy, drawing only visitors with a keen interest in the local history and

culture.

1 Sights

o Kimpusen-ji

TEMPLE

( MAP ; 金峯山寺; 2498 Yoshino-yama; ¥500; h8.30am-4.30pm, enter by 4pm)

Kimpusen-ji, founded in the 7th century, is believed to be the incubator of

Shugendō, a unique Buddhist sect that incorporates Shintō traditions and

Taoism and is associated with the storied yamabushi (ascetic mountain priests).

The main hall, called the Zaō-dō, was last rebuilt in 1592 and is Japan’s

second-largest wooden building, a National Treasure with a cedarbark roof.

The principal deity is a bright-blue, three-bodied image of Zaō Gongen,

protector of Yoshino-yama; it’s only visible to visitors for a short period each

year, in which case temple admission is ¥1000 (check at tourist offices for

dates). The temple’s Niō-mon, a gate with two fearsome Niō (guardian) statues

and the oldest structure at Kimpusenji, is undergoing restoration until 2026.

Early risers can observe morning otsutome (worship service), incorporating

taikō drumming and the sounding of the horagai (giant conch).

Yoshimizu-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(吉水神社; 579 Yoshino-yama; ¥400; h9am-4.30pm)

It may not look like much, but this shrine, founded roughly 1300 years ago, has

a serious historic pedigree: it has harboured general Minamoto Yoshitsune

(taking refuge from his murderous brother Yoritomo, the first Kamakura

shogun) and emperor Go-Daigo, and warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi hosted a

5000-person hanami (blossom-viewing) party here in 1594. On display are a

mishmash of artefacts from the shrine’s long history.

From Kimpusen-ji, continue 300m to a side road to the left (the first turn

past the post office), leading to the shrine. There are good views back to

Kimpusen-ji and the hito-me-sen-bon (1000 trees at a glance) viewpoint.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There’s a number of small inns around town. During cherry-blossom season,

book well ahead.

Many restaurants are perched on a ridge for inspirational views. Eateries

cluster near the steps to Kimpusen-ji and along the town’s one main road,

towards Yoshimizujinja. If you’re staying overnight, book meals at your

accommodation: restaurants generally close around 4pm.

Ryokan Katō

RYOKAN

¥¥

(旅館歌藤; %0746-32-3177; www.kato-yoshino.jp; 3056 Yoshino-yama; s/d ¥9000/15,100, incl 2

meals ¥18,000/32,000; pnaW)

In business for two centuries but marvellously up to date, Katō has English-

speaking staff who cater well to international travellers. Especially appealing is

the modern, log-house-style back building, with a glassed-in rotunda for

cherry-tree viewing and communing around a wood stove. All 14 Japanese-

style rooms have shared bathroom (there’s a stone rotemburo – outdoor bath);

half have private toilet.

Staff can pick you up from Yoshino Station if you ring them, except during

cherry-blossom season, when the road’s closed to traffic. Reservations for

blossom time open at 9am on 10 January and go fast.

Chikurin-in Gumpō-en

RYOKAN

¥¥

(竹林院群芳園; %0746-32-8081; www.chikurin.co.jp; 2142 Yoshino-yama; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥12,960, single surcharge ¥5250; pnaW)

Chikurin-in is one of Yoshino’s old Shugendō temples that now also operates

as a ryokan. The simplest shukubō (temple-lodging) rooms have shared

facilities, but there are also rather luxurious rooms with private rotemburo.

Some staff speak English. Pick-up is available from Yoshino Station (except

during cherry-blossom season, when the road’s closed to traffic); request when

you book.

Kakinohasushi Tatsumi

SUSHI

¥¥

(柿の葉すしたつみ; %0746-32-1056; www.tatsumi-yoshino.jp; 559-3 Yoshinoyama; sushi set

from ¥1150; h9am-5pm, longer hours cherry-blossom season)

This tiny, family-run takeaway shop serves kakinoha-zushi. Choose your fish –

salmon (sake), mackerel (saba) or both (combi) – and quantity (the smallest set

includes seven pieces). Look for samples and a wooden sushi press in the

window. It sometimes closes early if supplies run out.

Nakai Shunpūdō

SWEETS

¥

(中井春風堂; %0746-32-3043; 545 Yoshinoyama; sweet set with tea ¥800; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue

Apr-Nov, Sat & Sun only Dec-Mar; v)

You can watch the chef make kuzu (arrowroot gelatin) sweets in the shop

window here – it’s kind of like magic as the kuzu transforms from starch to

edibles (a simple English translation explains the process). Then try it as

kuzumanju (filled with bean paste) or kuzukiri (sliced into noodles and dipped

in black honey) in the bright, airy contemporary cafe.

8 Getting There & Away

Yoshino is in the mountains, a 20-minute walk uphill from the nearest train

station (Yoshino). There’s also a shuttle bus that runs from the station to the

Yoshino-yama stop at the top of the mountain and returns from the Senbon-

guchi stop at the other end of the village (¥360, twice hourly 9am to 4pm).

Yoshino Station is on the Kintetsu Yoshino line. Tokkyū trains run to Yoshino

from Osaka-Abenobashi (¥1480, 1½ hours) and from Kintetsu Kyoto Station

(¥2550, 1¾ hours). Ordinary trains (from Osaka/Kyoto ¥970/1230) take 15 to

20 minutes longer and require a transfer at Kashihara-jingū-mae (and maybe at

Yamato Saidaiji as well).

From Nara, take the Kintetsu Nara line two stops to Yamato-Saidaiji, then

transfer to the Kintetsu Kashihara line to Kashihara-jingū-mae and then to the

Kintetsu Yoshino line (¥580, about an hour).

The closest JR station is Yoshino-guchi on the JR Wakayama line; travel

from Nara (¥760, 1¾ hours) and Osaka (¥9700, 1¾ hours) requires a transfer at

Ōji. At Yoshino-guchi, transfer to the Kintetsu Yoshino line for Yoshino

( kyūkō/tokkyū ¥380/890, 35/26 minutes).

KII PENINSULA 紀伊半島

The remote and mountainous Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島, Kii-hantō) is a far

cry from central Kansai’s bustling urban sprawl. There are two top

attractions here that make the area a worthy stop in your itinerary: the

mountaintop temple complex of Kōya-san, one of Japan’s most important

Buddhist centres, and, further south, the ancient pilgrimage trails, sacred

shrines and rustic onsen of the Kumano Kodō. With more time, you can

explore the rocky southern coast, which makes up the Nanki Kumano

Geopark and has some interesting geological formations.

Kii Peninsula

1 Top Sights

1 Kimpusen-ji

C1

2 Kumano Hongū Taisha

C3

3 Nachi-no-taki

C3

1 Sights

Hirō-jinja

(see 3)

4 Hosshinmon-ōji

C3

5 Kumano Hayatama Taisha

C3

6 Kumano Nachi Taisha

C3

Seiganto-ji

(see 6)

7 Takijiri-ōji

B3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

8 Kumano River Boat Tour

C3

9 Ryūjin Onsen Moto-yu

B2

10 Sennin Buro

C3

4 Sleeping

Fujiya

(see 10)

Kamigoten

(see 9)

5 Eating

Yuzuyume Cafe

(see 9)

4 Sleeping

Most of the accommodation here is in traditional-style inns – futons on the

floor and shared bathrooms down the hall – and, in Kōya-san, shukubō.

Some inns and temples offer Western-style beds and en-suite facilities, but

you should expect to pay a fair bit extra. While they’re remote, both Kōya-

san and the Kumano Kodō are popular destinations for local and overseas

travellers, and the best places can fill up early.

5 Eating

A speciality in Kōya-san is shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine; no

meat, fish, onions or garlic). The towns on the coast have restaurants around

their train stations; in the interior there will be shokudō and teahouses, but

many are only open for lunch – it’s a good idea to book meals at your inn.

8 Information

MONEY

Many of the accommodation options, most of which are traditional inns, and

restaurants here won’t take credit cards. Post offices and convenience stores

(with international ATMs) can be found in the larger towns on the coast and

also in Kōya-san.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Kii Peninsula attractions fall within Wakayama Prefecture, which has a good

tourism website: https://en.visitwakayama.jp.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Kansai International Airport

Kansai International Airport, at the top of the peninsula, is convenient for

Kii destinations. For Kōya-san, take the Rapi:t Airport Express (¥1430, 40

minutes) or the Nankai Airport Express (¥920, 45 minutes) towards Namba

(in Osaka) and get off at Tengachaya, where you can transfer to the Nankai

Kōya line ( Tokkyū Kōya Liner ¥1650, 80 minutes; kyūkō ¥870, 100 minutes)

for Gokurakubashi and the cable car to the mountain.

For Tanabe, the nearest access point for the Kumano Kodō, take the JR

Kansai Airport Rapid Service two stops to Hineno and transfer to the JR

Kinokuni line for Kii-Tanabe; if you take one of the fast, hourly Kuroshio

liner tokkyū trains, the journey takes 1¾ hours plus transit time (total cost

¥3890).

Nanki Shirahama Airport

On the southwestern coast of the peninsula, just south of Tanabe, Nanki

Shirahama Airport (南紀白浜空港; %0739-43-0081; www.aikis.or.jp/~airport) has

three flights daily to/from Haneda Airport in Tokyo. Buses are timed to meet

most departures and arrivals; travel time to Tanabe is 50 minutes (¥770); a

taxi costs ¥4290. One bus per day continues to/from Hongū (¥2500; 2½

hours), in the heart of the Kumano Kodō. See the airport website for

schedule details.

BOAT

Nankai ferries (nankai-ferry.co.jp) connect Wakayama Ferry Terminal

(%073-422-2156; 2835-1 Minato, Wakayama) with Tokushima (南海フェリー; %088-

636-0750; www.nankaiferry.co.jp; 5-7-39 Minami-Okinosu), on the island of Shikoku (adult/child ¥2000/1000, two hours, eight to nine daily).

TRAIN

The JR Kinokuni line runs around the peninsula’s coast, linking Shin-Osaka

and Nagoya Stations. Limited-express Kuroshio liner and Wideview Nanki

liner trains can get you around the peninsula fairly quickly.

8 Getting Around

The Kii Peninsula is entirely doable by public transport, and the majority of

travellers visit this way. Unless you have a very loose schedule, it’s a good

idea to check timetables beforehand – especially when it comes to buses,

which may run infrequently.

Between April and November there’s one bus daily (two at weekends and

during peak periods) between Kōya-san and Hongū (adult/child ¥5000/2500,

4½ hours), for the Kumano Kodō; there may be transfers involved, but the

process is fairly seamless. These buses also stop at Ryūjin Onsen. Book at

least a day in advance, through Kumano Travel (p. 429) or Japan Bus

Online (https://japanbusonline.com/en).

A rental car, which you can pick up at Kansai Airport or in any Kansai

city, gives you more freedom; however, you are cautioned against driving to

Kōya-san between December and March, when snow is possible, unless you

have experience driving narrow mountain roads in icy conditions (snow

tyres are required). At this time of year the road connecting Kōya-san and

Hongū, via Ryūjin Onsen, can be particularly treacherous.

ISE-KUMANO-WAKAYAMA AREA PASS

The Ise-Kumano-Wakayama Area Pass (http://touristpass.jp/en/ise_kumano; adult/child

¥12,000/6000) covers five days of travel on JR lines (including up to four rides on limited-

express trains) around the Kii Peninsula and Ise-shima, including transit from Kansai

International Airport and the gateway cities of Nagoya, Osaka and Nara, plus select Kumano

Kotsu bus routes around the peninsula. It’s only available to overseas visitors; purchase at the

airport or at the main JR train station in any of the gateway cities, or in advance from a travel

agent in your home country (for a discount of ¥1000). Unfortunately, this pass does not cover

travel to Kōya-san, which is served by Nankai line trains.

Kōya-san 高野山

%0736 / POP 3087

Thickly forested Kōya-san (高野山) is nestled in the mountains of northern

Wakayama Prefecture, surrounded by eight peaks (in Buddhist iconography

it resembles the centre of a lotus flower, with the peaks forming the petals).

It’s home to a large monastic complex founded in the early 9th century and

still very much a centre of worship for followers of the Shingon school of

Esoteric Buddhism. For the less pious, the draws include the peaceful

mountain setting, strolls past photogenic, moss-covered stone stupas and the

chance to experience a taste of monastic life. While it’s possible to visit

Kōya-san as a day trip (most easily done from Osaka), part of the experience

is staying in a shukubō. Keep in mind that Kōya-san tends to be around 7°C

colder than Kansai’s cities. Much of the town shuts down between December

and February, though most temples stay open.

History

The story of Kōya-san is the story of Kōbō Daishi, one of the most

prominent figures in Japanese cultural history. In 804 a monk from Shikoku

named Kukai – the man who would later be called Kōbō Daishi – joined an

imperial mission to Chang-an, the capital of Tang-dynasty China. There he

studied Esoteric Buddhism and upon his return to Japan in 806 began to

promote its teachings. He was a success in the capital, establishing himself

also as a scholar and a humanitarian – he’s traditionally credited with

creating the Japanese kana (phonetic writing system) – but longing for the

mountains.

In 816, by imperial decree, he was granted permission to establish a

monastery in Kōya-san and with it the Shingon sect of Buddhism ( shingon

means ‘true word’ and is the Japanese translation of mantra). His choice of

location enters the realm of legend: at the harbour in China, before his return

passage to Japan, he tossed his vajra (a Buddhist ritual object) into the air

and vowed to search for it upon his return. Wandering the forests, he met a

hunter (said to be the mountain god Kariba Myōjin), whose dogs led him to

the vajra, which had landed at the spot where the Garan temple now stands.

In 835, after fasting, he entered what is now the Gobyō gate and began a

week-long concentrated meditation, after which, he told his followers, he

would pass away and the crypt should be sealed. It was, and it has only been

opened once since, when – again according to legend – sometime in the 10th

century some curious monks are said to have discovered a still-living Kōbō

Daishi, his hair and beard grown long. Among Shingon believers today,

there are those who believe that Kōbō Daishi remains alive inside, praying

for the salvation of all. Still today, monks at Oku-no-in temple prepare a

ritual meal for him as part of their morning service.

Either way, his legacy and teachings have endured: Kongōbu-ji, the head

Shingon temple, oversees some 3500 branch temples, and the sect counts

over 10 million followers. In the intervening 1200 years it has remained

popular for followers – who include the nobility and samurai of old, modern-

day business tycoons and ordinary people – to build tombs in the vast Oku-

no-in to be close to Kōbō Daishi. It is estimated that there are some 200,000

tombs there today.

Kōya-san

1 Top Sights

1 Gobyō

D1

2 Oku-no-in

D2

1 Sights

3 Chūmon

A3

4 Garan

A3

5 Gobyō-bashi

D2

6 Ichi-no-hashi

C3

7 Kondō

A3

8 Kongōbu-ji

B3

9 Konpon Daitō

A3

Miroku-ishi

(see 2)

10 Naka-no-hashi

D2

11 Reihōkan

A3

12 Tōrō-dō

D1

4 Sleeping

13 Ekō-in

C3

14 Fukuchi-in

B2

15 Koyasan Guest House Kokuu

D2

16 Shōjōshin-in

C3

17 Sōji-in

A3

5 Eating

18 Bononsha

B3

19 Kadohama

A3

20 Kōmi Coffee

C3

21 Tonkatsu-tei

D2

8 Transport

22 Ichi-no-hashi-guchi

C3

23 iKoya

A3

24 Kondō-mae

A3

25 Kongōbu-ji-mae

B3

26 Kōya-san Shukubō Association

B3

27 Oku-no-in-mae

D2

28 Senjūin-bashi

B3

1 Sights

The precincts of Kōya-san are divided into two main areas: Garan (Sacred

Precinct) in the west, where you’ll find interesting temples and pagodas,

and Oku-no-in, with its vast cemetery, in the east.

A joint ticket ( shodōkyōtsu-naihaiken; ¥1500) that covers entry to

Kongōbu-ji, Garan’s Kondō and Konpon Daitō, Reihōkan and the Tokugawa

Mausoleum can be purchased at the Kōya-san Shukubō Association office

and the venues themselves.

o Oku-no-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 奥の院; h24hr) F

Oku-no-in, whose name means ‘inner sanctuary’, is perhaps the most

intensely spiritual place in Japan. At its farthest reaches is the Gobyō ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 御廟), the crypt that Shingon Buddhism founder Kōbō Daishi entered to began his eternal meditation. Spread out before it are some

200,000 tombs, creating Japan’s largest cemetery, built during various

historical eras by people, prominent and otherwise, who wanted their

remains (or at least a lock of hair) interred close to the legendary monk.

Enter the grounds at Ichi-no-hashi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一の橋), the bridge that marks the entrance to the cemetery, from where it’s a 2km walk to the

Gobyō. The grounds are thickly forested, sheltering countless five-tiered

stupas, many of them worn with age and partly reclaimed by moss. It’s a

moody place: streaks of sunlight through the trees create enchanting

contrast, though so does early-morning mist and, if you can brave the winter

cold, blankets of snow.

Gobyō-bashi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 御廟橋) is the final bridge before the Gobyō. It crosses the Tama-gawa, which runs down from Yōryū-san, the

mountain behind the crypt. At this point it’s customary to bow, and from

here on photographs are prohibited. To the right are the Mizumuke Jizō,

bronze effigies that visitors ladle water over as a way of praying for the souls

of the departed.

Just past Gobyō-bashi is a wooden building the size of a large phone

booth, which contains the Miroku-ishi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; みろく石), a stone said to weigh as much as your sins. Reach through the hole and try to lift it

onto the shelf. (Don’t feel bad if your sins are too much to handle: most

people can’t manage the feat.)

Soon you’ll encounter the beguiling Tōrō-dō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 燈籠堂, Lantern Hall; h6am-5.30pm), a large hall full of lanterns, which cover the walls and

ceiling. Two of the large ones, in the back of the hall, are said to have been

lit uninterruptedly for more than 900 years. Other lanterns have been

donated by dignitaries, including emperors and prime ministers. It’s here that

monks continue to offer food daily to Kōbō Daishi.

Behind the Tōrō-dō is the wooden, thatched-roof gate – humble by

contrast – that marks the entry to Gobyō, Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum. This is

as far as anyone can go. Pilgrims in a constant stream pause here to light

incense and candles and chant sutras.

Oku-no-in is easily reached on foot from the town centre in 10 or 15

minutes, or you can take a bus east to the Ichi-no-hashi-guchi bus stop. On

return, you can take a shorter walk down, along the Naka-no-hashi route,

which passes more modern tombs and leads you to the Oku-no-in-mae bus

stop, where you can catch a bus back to town (or walk it in about 30

minutes).

Garan

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伽藍; per bldg ¥200; h8.30am-5pm) The name of this temple, which is sometimes called Danjo Garan or Dai

Garan, derives from the Sanskrit sa ṅ ghārāma, which means monastery.

With eight principal buildings (temples, pagodas), the complex was the

original centre for teaching established by Kōbō Daishi in the 9th century.

It’s still a teaching centre today, and you might see groups of saffron-robed

novices making the rounds. The buildings have burned several times in the

intermediate centuries and what you see today are almost entirely modern-

day reconstructions.

Chūmon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中門), the Garan’s main gate, was renovated for Kōya-san’s 1200th anniversary in 2015, after an 1843 fire. Two of the

original statues of guardian kings enshrined in the gate were rescued from

that fire, and two additional ones were carved to make the full set of four.

The most interesting structure in the grounds is the Konpon Daitō ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 根本大塔, Great Pagoda; ¥200), a 50m-tall, brightvermilion pagoda seated at what is considered to be the centre of the lotus-flower mandala

formed by Kōya-san’s eight mountains. The main object of worship is

Dainichi-nyōrai (Cosmic Buddha), surrounded by four attendant Buddhas

and, painted on pillars, 16 bodhisattvas, which together compose a three-

dimensional mandala of the Shingon Buddhist cosmos.

The Kondō (金堂, Golden Hall; ¥200; h8.30am-5pm) is the Garan’s main hall and

enshrines Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of medicine and healing; the actual

statue is hidden, but there are mandalas and paintings of bodhisattvas and

Buddhist teachings on the walls.

Kongōbu-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金剛峯寺; %0736-56-2011; www.koyasan.or.jp; 132 Kōya-san; h8.30am-5pm)

This is the headquarters of the Shingon sect and the residence of Kōya-san’s

abbot. The main gate is the temple’s oldest structure (1593); the present

main hall dates from the 19th century. It’s free to enter the grounds, but costs

¥500 to enter the main hall, which has several fusuma (opaque paper sliding

doors) adorned with landscape paintings by famed 17th-century artists,

including those of the Kanō school. Many of the temple’s statues and ritual

implements are displayed at the Reihōkan.

From inside the main hall you can see the banryutei (1984), Japan’s

largest rock garden. It contains 140 large granite stones brought from

Shikoku (Kōbō Daishi’s birthplace) and white gravel from Kyoto, which are

collectively meant to represent two protector dragons rising from a sea of

clouds.

The more recently built annexes (Betsuden and Shin-Betsuden) contain

contemporary paintings of seasons and images inspired by Kōbō Daishi’s

sojourn in China.

Reihōkan

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 霊宝館, Treasure Museum; %0736-56-2029; 306 Kōya-san; adult/child/student ¥600/250/350; h8.30am-5.30pm May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr)

Several important artworks from Kōya-san’s temples are collected here,

most notably some Heian-era wooden sculptures of the Buddha and Fudō

Myō-ō originally from Kongōbu-ji. Other works include scroll paintings

depicting the life of Kōbō Daishi.

The museum is in the centre of town, near the Garan. The original wing,

built in 1921, is Japan’s oldest wooden museum, and without heating gets

quite chilly in winter.

T Tours

o Awesome Tours

TOURS

(%080-3108-4790; https://awesome-tours.jp/en; 1½hr night tour per person with/without return bus

¥2100/1800, 1½hr day tour per person ¥2500, children free)

Let English-speaking monks guide you through Oku-no-in, telling you some

of the stories and legends about the different graves. Eerie evening tours

meet nightly at 7pm at Eko-in; bookings are certainly not required but

recommended. Day tours (booking required), which include a ritual prayer at

Gobyō, are enriching and not at all stuffy. Tours are cancelled if it’s raining.

z Festivals & Events

Rōsoku Matsuri

CULTURAL

(ろうそく祭り; h13 Aug)

This captivating festival is held in remembrance of departed souls.

Thousands of people come to light some 100,000 candles along the

approaches to Oku-no-in.

4 Sleeping

More than 50 temples in Kōya-san offer shukubō, which serve shōjin-ryōri

(Buddhist vegetarian cuisine).

Koyasan Guest House Kokuu

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高野山ゲストハウスKokuu; %0736-26-7216;

http://koyasanguesthouse.com; 49-43 Kōya-san; capsules from ¥3500, s/d/tr from ¥6000/9000/12,000;

hclosed Feb; pnW)

A boon for budget travellers, this light and clean guesthouse has capsule-

style bunks and a few private rooms, all with shared facilities. It’s also a few

minutes’ walk from Oku-no-in-mae bus stop. Staff are super helpful and

speak English.

You can order a breakfast of fresh bread, yoghurt, and coffee or chai

(¥600) and an Indian-curry dinner (¥900).

o Shōjōshin-in

TEMPLE LODGE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 清浄心院; %0736-56-2006; www.shojoshinin.jp; 566 Kōya-san; r per person incl meals from ¥9720; pnW)

Among Kōya-san’s most atmospheric temples, with a thatched roof and an

old kitchen with exposed wooden beams, Shōjōshin-in is a wonderful choice

for your shukubō experience. Rooms are simple, the cheapest divided only

by fusama, but comfortable, and care goes into the meals. It’s also the closest

shukubō to Oku-no-in.

o Ekō-in

TEMPLE LODGE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 恵光院; %0736-56-2514; www.ekoin.jp; 497 Kōya-san; r per person incl

meals & with/without bathroom from ¥18,000/12,000; pniW)

This pretty hillside temple, set around a garden, offers both simple but nicely

done-up rooms and pricier en-suite rooms with newly updated facilities. It’s

run by a bunch of friendly young monks keen to engage travellers in their

culture. There are free evening meditation sessions in English and morning

fire rituals. A single-traveller surcharge is ¥2000. The nearest bus stop is

Ichi-no-hashi-guchi.

Fukuchi-in

TEMPLE LODGE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 福智院; %0736-56-2021; www.fukuchiin.com; 657 Kōya-san; r per person with meals from ¥12,960, single travellers ¥16,200; pna)

Fukuchi-in has two standout features: a communal onsen bath, including a

rotemburo (outdoor bath), and a garden designed by famous modernist

landscape artist Shigemori Mirei. Upgrade for a room with garden view (and

for a little more for a room with a toilet). It’s one of Kōya-san’s larger

shokubō and popular with bus tours. Some staff speak English.

The nearest bus stop is Namikiri-fudō-mae.

Sōji-in

TEMPLE LODGE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 総持院; %0736-56-2111; www.soujiin.or.jp; 143 Kōya-san; r per person incl meals from ¥18,360, single travellers ¥29,380; paW)

One of Kōya-san’s smaller temples, with only 14 rooms, Sōji-in is also one

of the most modernised: all rooms have air-conditioning, some have baths

(and all have toilets) and there’s a lift. All of this is set around a lovely

garden, with English-speaking staff and a location across the street from the

Garan.

5 Eating

Kōya-san’s local cuisine is, naturally, shōjin-ryōri, which means no meat,

fish, onions or garlic. If you spend the night at a shukubō, this is what will be

served for breakfast and dinner.

Many temples offer lunch, so if you’re visiting as a day trip contact the

Kōya-san Shukubō Association to make a reservation. Lunch prices at

temples are fixed at ¥2700, ¥3800 and ¥5400, depending on the number of

courses. Special dishes to look out for include kōya-dōfu (freeze-dried tofu –

a natural preservation method in these cold mountain climes) – and goma-

dōfu (sesame tofu).

There are also plenty of shokudō (all-round, inexpensive restaurants) in

town; note that most of these close by late afternoon.

Tonkatsu-tei

SHOKUDO

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とんかつ亭; %0736-56-1039; 49-48 Kōya-san; set meals ¥900-1300; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Wed-Mon)

Of course not everyone in Kōya-san follows a monk’s diet: locals love this

tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet) shop, a five-minute walk beyond the Oku-

no-in bus stop. Look for the yellow roof.

o Bononsha

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 梵恩舎; %0736-56-5535; 730 Kōya-san; lunch set menu ¥1200; h6.30am-5pm, closed irregularly & late Dec-Mar; v)

This chill spot – more Goa than rural Japan – with great wooden beams

serves vegetarian dishes like tofu cheesecake that seem indulgent compared

to temple food. Come after 11am for the daily lunch plate, only served until

they run out. Good coffee and chai, too.

Kadohama

TOFU

¥¥

( MAP ; 角濱; %0736-26-8700; 230 Kōya-san; lunch sets ¥1860, sweets ¥480; h9am-5pm, closed

irregularly)

Kadohama specialises in goma-dōfu (sesame tofu) prepared several ways.

The lunch sets come beautifully presented in bamboo baskets with eight

small dishes around a larger one – evoking the eight-lotus-petal symbolism

of Kōya-san. Vegetarians should note that, appearances aside, this is not

shōjinryōri: some dishes are made with dashi (fish stock).

Sweet options include matcha-flavoured goma-dōfu served with anko

(sweet red-bean paste). Look for the dark-wood building.

Kōmi Coffee

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP ; 光海コーヒー; 571 Kōya-san; meals ¥1320-1650, sandwiches ¥600; v)

A cosy and convenient pit stop for curries, sandwiches and apple pie near the

entrance to Oku-no-in. Its namesake coffee comes from a small-batch roaster

in Hokkaidō.

KŌYA-SAN’S SHOKUBŌ

The simplest shukubō (temple lodging) rooms (starting at ¥9720 per person including two

meals, usually with a surcharge for solo guests) are very basic, with shared facilities; many do

not have air conditioning (though they offer space heaters in winter and fans in summer). Most

have a variety of room styles, and for a higher rate you can get a room with a private bath and

more amenities. Some have gorgeous rooms with garden views.

Shukubō have a fairly set routine. Most expect you to check in by 5pm, and some have a

curfew. Monks usually perform a morning prayer service, which guests can observe. The

service is followed by breakfast; the timing of this depends on the time of year, but expect it to

be early. Communal bathing facilities are often only available between check-in time and 10pm.

You can reserve online (at least a week in advance) through the Kōya-san Shukubō

Association ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高野山宿坊協会; %0736-56-2616;

http://shukubo.net; 600 Kōya-san; h8.30am-4.30pm Dec-Feb, to 5pm Mar-Jun & Sep-Nov, to

5.45pm Jul & Aug; W), though many shukubō are now using popular online-booking sites. Peak

travel times include April and October, during which you should book well ahead.

8 Information

MONEY

Kōya Post Office (770 Kōya-san; hpost 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ATM 8.45am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-

5pm Sat, to 3pm Sun) Has an international ATM. Note that few places here take

credit cards.

TOURIST INFORMATION

iKoya ( MAP ; %0736-56-2780; 357 Kōya-san; h9am-5pm; W) English-speaking staff and

lots of local info; rent electric-assist bicycles here for ¥1000 per day (return

by 4.30pm).

Kōya-san Shukubō Association handles bookings for Kōya-san’s s hukubō

and also temple meals; use its online system to book (you can just show up,

but it’s risky during peak periods like April and October). This office also

has English info, including English-language audio guides (¥500) for major

sights, and bicycle rental (¥1200 per day). It’s in front of the Senjūin-bashi

bus stop.

8 Getting There & Away

Access to Kōya-san is via the Nankai Railway from Osaka’s Nankai-Namba

Station; trains terminate at Gokurakubashi, at the base of the mountain. A

cable car goes the rest of the way up the mountain. From the cable-car

station, take a bus into town; walking is prohibited on the connecting road.

There are four daily (more frequent on weekends and holidays) reserved-

seat limitedexpress Nankai Kōya line trains bound for Gokurakubashi

(¥1650, 1½ hours); otherwise, the journey takes 10 to 15 minutes longer on a

regular express (¥870).

Nankai’s Kōya-san World Heritage Ticket (¥3400;

www.nankaikoya.jp/en/stations/ticket.html) covers return train fare (including one-way limited-express fare from Osaka), buses on Kōya-san for

two days and discounted admission to some sites. Purchase at any major

Nankai train station.

If you want to use a JR Pass, get to Hashimoto, on the JR Wakayama line,

where you can connect to the Nankai line to Gokurakubashi (¥440, 45

minutes). This is most easily accomplished coming from Nara, via the JR

Yamatōji line, with a transfer at Ōji for the JR Wakayama line (two hours

plus transit time).

8 Getting Around

Buses run on three routes from Kōya-san Cable Car Station via the town

centre (Senjūin-bashi bus stop; ¥290, 10 minutes), continuing either to

Kongōbu-ji (Kongōbu-ji-mae bus stop; ¥290, 11 minutes) and Garan

(Kondō-mae bus stop; ¥340, 15 minutes) or to Ichi-no-hashi (Ichi-no-hashi-

guchi bus stop; ¥330, 14 minutes) and Oku-no-in (Oku-no-in-mae bus stop;

¥410, 16 minutes).

The bus office at the cable-car stations sells one-day bus passes (¥830),

but once you’re in town the sights are walkable: Kōya-san is only 3km west

to east (and 2km north to south). Buses run a few times an hour; make a note

of the schedule in advance if you’re relying on them.

Both iKoya and the Kōya-san Shukubō Association rent bicycles, as do

some lodgings.

Kumano Kodō

The Kumano Kodō (熊野古道) is an ancient network of roads – dating back

more than 1000 years – running through the mountainous interior of the Kii

Peninsula. These are pilgrim trails, connecting historic shrines and temples

with deep spiritual significance. The most accessible and most popular route

is the Nakahechi, also known as the Imperial Route (several emperors of old

travelled along it), which crosses the width of the peninsula from Tanabe, a

town on the western coast, to the towns of Shingū and Nachi-Katsuura on

the eastern coast. There are hikes for all levels, quiet mountain hamlets and

some excellent onsen in the villages around Hongū: Yunomine, Watarase and

Kawa-yu.

Most travellers start in Tanabe and use a combination of buses – to skip

the parts of the trails that have become major roads – and legwork to get

around; there’s also the option of finishing the pilgrimage by way of a

traditional boat ride.

History

From the earliest times the Japanese believed the wilds of the Kii Peninsula

to be inhabited by kami, the deities of its native Shintō belief system rooted

in nature worship. When Buddhism arrived in Japan in the 6th century, it

didn’t wipe out the kami; instead, it enveloped them, transforming them into

gongen – manifestations of the Buddha or a bodhisattva. A syncretic religion

evolved and that is what was long practised in the mountains of Kii. Each of

the Kumano Sanzan (three great shrines of Kumano) is rich in natural,

Shintō and Buddhist significance.

It’s believed that mountain ascetics called yamabushi established the first

trails here as they engaged in tough acts of endurance, hiking and climbing

for days on end. In the Heian period (794–1185) it became popular for

retired emperors and members of noble families to make pilgrimages here

(likely led by yamabushi guides). From Kyoto it would take 30 to 40 days.

In the Edo period (1603–1868), when travel was heavily restricted by the

shogunate, certain pilgrimages became popular among commoners because

they were the only allowed form of travel.

1 Sights

The main sights are the Kumano Sanzan (three great shrines of Kumano)

that anchor the Nakahechi route: Kumano Hongū Taisha, Kumano Hayatama

Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Along the trails are numerous oji,

subsidiary shrines that serve as mile markers and rest stops.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

RYŪJIN

Deep in the mountains of Kii, Ryūjin (龍神) is a village of peaks and gorges along the Hidaka-

gawa with onsen waters that are rich in sodium bicarbonate said to rank among Japan’s most

beautifying. It’s roughly halfway between Kōya-san and the Kumano Kodō. If you’d like to

spend the night in Ryūjin, stay at Kamigoten ( MAP ; 上御殿; %0739-79-0005;

www.kamigoten.jp; 42 Ryūjin; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥19,050; paW). Now in its 29th generation, the inn was built in 1657 for the local lord and member of the Tokugawa family. It’s

been updated over the years and now feels like a humbly elegant country home, with simple

riverside baths, fresh tatami rooms, wooden corridors polished smooth and sprigs of fresh

flowers everywhere. Meals, served in the rooms, are beautifully prepared feasts.

A once- or twice-daily bus running from April through November between Kōya-san (¥2900,

2½ hours) and Hongū (¥2500, two hours) stops at Ryūjin. It’s easier to reach by car, but don’t

try it in winter. If you’re just driving through, you can stop off for a soak at Ryūjin Onsen

Moto-yu ( MAP ; 龍神温泉元湯; %0739-79-0726; 37 Ryūjin; ¥700; h7am-9pm), the village’s

public bathhouse, fed by natural hot springs. Eat at Yuzuyume Cafe ( MAP ; ゆず夢カフェ;

%0739-79-8025; 165-1 Ryūjin; mains ¥850-1200; h9am-6pm Sun, Mon & Wed, to 9pm Thu-

Sat, closed irregularly; p), an unexpectedly eclectic indoor-outdoor place serving pizza, curry

and coffee.

4 Sleeping

Lodgings are almost exclusively small, family-run minshuku (guesthouses).

Booking through Kumano Travel is highly recommended: this is the only

way to book most properties online and will allow you to pay up front by

credit card; otherwise you’ll need cash to pay at the inns. A room with no

meals costs ¥4000 to ¥5000 per person; a room with two meals costs from

¥8000 to ¥10,000 per person.

5 Eating

There are restaurants clustered around the train stations in Tanabe, Shingū

and Nachi-Katsuura (around Kii-Katsuura Station), and Tourist Information

Centers at each can offer suggestions. Hongū has some places to eat, though

mostly just for lunch. If you’re staying elsewhere, you’ll need to book meals

at your lodgings or pack your own food. Many inns can prepare bentō

(around ¥600 to ¥1000) for lunch on the trails.

8 Information

MONEY

Very few accommodations along the Kumano Kodō accept credit cards. If

you haven’t booked online and paid in advance, be sure to get all the cash

you’ll need to cover food, lodging and incidentals at one of the gateway

cities, which will have post offices with ATMs.

TOURIST INFORMATION

The best resources for travellers visiting the Kumano Kodō are Kumano

Travel and the Tanabe Tourist Information Center, both in Tanabe, and the

Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre in Hongū.

8 Getting There & Away

Most travellers access the Kumano Kodō via Kii-Tanabe Station, on the

western side of the peninsula, and end in Nachi-Katsuura (Kii-Katsuura

Station) or Shingū, on the eastern side. All are connected to Osaka via the JR

Kinokuni line, which runs along the rim of the peninsula.

Reserved-seat Kuroshio liner tokkyū trains run hourly from Shin-Osaka

via Tennōji (in central Osaka) for Kii-Tanabe (¥4750, 2¼ hours). Some (six

daily) travel all the way to Kii-Katsuura (¥6370, four hours) and Shingū

(¥6690, 4¼ hours); there are more frequent local trains between Kii-Tanabe

and Kii-Katsuura (¥970) and Shingū (¥1400), but they take about an hour

longer.

From Nagoya, JR Wideview Nanki liner tokkyū trains travel to Shingū

(¥6870, 3½ hours, four daily) and Kii-Katsuura (¥7200, 3¾ hours, three

daily). This route uses a small section of private-rail track, so JR Pass

holders need to pay a surcharge of ¥820 to ride.

From Shingū you can also reach Ise with a change of trains (multiple

options, from ¥4420, 2½ hours).

8 Getting Around

Buses depart from stop 2 in front of Kii-Tanabe Station for Shingū, stopping

at Takijiri (for Takijiri-ōji; ¥960, 40 minutes) and Hongū Taisha-mae (¥2060,

2¼ hours) along the Kumano Kodō; the first bus in the morning (departing at

6.25am) and several in the afternoon also stop at Yunomine Onsen (¥1940,

1¾ hours), Watarase Onsen (¥1890, two hours) and Kawa-yu Onsen (¥1900,

two hours).

Coming from Shingū, buses also depart from stop 2 (in front of Shingū

Station) for Hongū Taisha-mae (¥1540, one hour 20 minutes, 14 daily). A

few of these buses also stop at Kawayu Onsen (¥1540, one hour), Watarase

Onsen (¥1540, one hour) and Yunomine Onsen (¥1540, one hour 10

minutes) en route.

A car can be useful for seeing the sights without being beholden to bus

schedules, though travellers who want to hike as well will have to rely on

some buses (or backtrack).

HIKING THE KUMANO KODŌ

It’s possible to hike the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodō year-round, though bear in mind

that you’ll have fewer daylight hours to work with in winter, so plan accordingly (it’s a good

idea to have a headlamp). Clearly signposted in English, the well-maintained trails are a mix of

paved paths, packed earth and stone worn smooth after centuries of pilgrims treading them; the

latter can get quite slippery when wet – poles can be a good hedge for balance. Otherwise, the

gear you’ll need depends on what level of hiking you plan to do. Bears are rare, though you do

need to keep an eye out for pit vipers, mukade (big, poisonous centipedes) and aggressive

hornets.

You can spend anywhere from a day to a week on the trails. For shorter visits, there are two

good hikes around Hongū: the final stretch of the Nakahechi from Hosshinmon-ōji to Kumano

Hongū Taisha, a gentle, 7.5km, mostly downhill hike that takes two to three hours and passes

through a mix of farmland and forest, with stops at Fushiogami-chaya and a lookout point with

views of Ōtorii; buses run from town to the trailhead. There’s also the Dainichi-goe trail, a

short (2km) but steep up and down that connects the southern end of Hongū with Yunomine

Onsen in an hour or two; you can follow the hike with a soak at Tsubo-yu.

Longer itineraries often start at Takijiri-ōji ( MAP ; 滝尻王子; 859 Kurisugawa) F, one of

five major ōji (smaller shrines along the Kumano Kodō). Accessed by bus from Tanabe, it

marks the beginning of the passage into the mountains and today serves as the trailhead for the

Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodō. From Takijiri-ōji, it’s a two-day trek to Hongū, usually

including an overnight stop in the village of Chikatsu-yu. There are a few villages along the

way where you can pick up the Tanabe–Hongū bus, if you’ve hit bad weather or get in over

your head.

From Hongū you can continue by bus to the embarkation port for the Kumano River Boat

Tour, which takes you to Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingū – the most fun way to end the

journey (though weather can interfere). Alternatively, you can continue hiking for two more

days along the Kogumatori-goe and the challenging Ōgumatori-goe to Kumano Nachi Taisha,

in the mountains at the edge of Nachi-Katsuura.

For more detail about the trails, see www.kumano-travel.com. You can also visit the Kumano

Travel office in Tanabe to ask questions and pick up detailed trail maps.

Tanabe 田辺

%0739 / POP 74,400

Tanabe (田辺), a small city on the western coast of the Kii Peninsula, is the

main gateway to the Kumano Kodō. You can bypass Tanabe if you have

your trek all sorted, though many travellers stay a night here to get an early

start the following morning. It’s also worth visiting for the excellent

resources provided by Kumano Travel.

4 Sleeping

There are several small inns around town.

Miyoshiya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥

(美吉屋旅館; %0739-22-3448; www.miyoshiya-ryokan.com; 739-7 Minato; r per person from

¥3200; pnaW)

Miyoshiya is a simple travellers’ ryokan from the 1940s, and the

knowledgeable English-speaking owner makes a stay here worth it. Most of

the Japanese-style rooms have shared facilities and there’s a stone common

bath. It’s a three-minute walk from Kii-Tanabe Station (turn left at the first

traffic signal, walk about 300m and it will be on your right).

There are coin laundry facilities; breakfast costs an extra ¥800.

Konyamachiya

RENTAL HOUSE

¥¥

(紺屋町家; www.kumano-travel.com/en/accommodations/konyamachiya-townhouse; 74 Konya-

machi; houses ¥9500-21,360; pnaW)

This beautifully renovated guesthouse, with exposed beams and traditional

plaster walls, has two Japanese-style bedrooms and sleeps up to six; there’s

also a small kitchenette and washer and dryer. The downside: it’s a bit far

away, about a 15-minute walk or a five-minute taxi ride from Kii-Tanabe

Station, and you must check in, at Kumano Travel, between 3pm and 5pm.

The price varies according to the number of guests.

5 Eating

The epicentre of eating and drinking in Tanabe is Ajikōji (‘Flavour Alley’),

an atmospheric maze of narrow streets that connects dozens of izakaya a

short walk from Kii-Tanabe Station. The vibe is very local but friendly;

several spots have English menus.

Shinbe

IZAKAYA

¥¥

(しんべ; %0739-24-8845; 12-45 Minato; dishes ¥300-2000; h5-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

In the warren of tiny restaurants called Ajikoji (‘Flavour Alley’) near Kii-

Tanabe Station and the tourist-information centre, this boisterous, family-run

izakaya is famous for its ebi-dango (shrimp-paste balls) and ridiculously

fresh fish that the chef himself might have just pulled in from nearby waters.

Sit at the counter for lots of local colour and tons of fun.

8 Information

Kumano Travel (熊野トラベル; %0739-22-2180; www.tb-kumano.jp; 14-6 Minato; h9am-

6pm; W) This community-run travel agency can help you organise your whole

Kumano Kodō trek. You can book accommodation (and pay by credit card),

store your luggage (¥500 per item per day) or have it shipped elsewhere on

your route (price varies), pick up detailed maps, bus schedules and last-

minute supplies, and have any questions addressed in fluent English. Walk

straight out of Kii-Tanabe Station, cross the main intersection and it’s on

your right.

Tanabe Tourism Information Centre (田辺市観光センター; %0739-34-5599;

www.tb-kumano.jp; h9am-6pm; W) In front of Kii-Tanabe Station, with English-

speaking staff and lots of local info, including a great map marked with

restaurants that have English menus and bus schedules.

8 Getting There & Away

Reserved-seat Kuroshio liner tokkyū trains run hourly on the JR Kinokuni

line to Kii-Tanabe from Tennōji (Osaka; ¥4320, two hours) and Shin-Osaka

(¥4750, 2¼ hours). Some (six daily) continue along the peninsula from Kii-

Tanabe to Kii-Katsuura (¥2630, 1¾ hours) and Shingū (¥3340, 2¼ hours);

there are more frequent local trains that take about an hour longer (Kii-

Katsuura/Shingū ¥970/1400).

Buses depart from stop 2 in front of Kii-Tanabe Station for Shingū,

stopping at Takijiri (for Takijiri-ōji; ¥960, 40 minutes) and Hongū Taisha-

mae (¥2060, 2¼ hours) along the Kumano Kodō; the first bus in the morning

(departing at 6.25am) and several in the afternoon also stop at the onsen

towns of Yunomine (¥1940, 1¾ hours), Watarase (¥1890, two hours) and

Kawa-yu (¥1900, two hours).

Hongū 本宮

%0735 / POP 2760

Hongū (本宮), in the interior of Kii, is the biggest hub along the Kumano

Kodō. Still, it’s more village than town, which suits its natural setting, on the

sandy banks of the Kumano-gawa. One of the Kumano Sanzan (three great

shrines of Kumano) is here, Kumano Hongū Taisha, which retains much of

the character of an ancient shrine.

From Hongū you can easily reach the onsen villages of Yunomine (湯の

峰), Watarase (わたらせ) and Kawa-yu (川湯) by bus, or even on foot.

Yunomine is considered one of Japan’s earliest onsen destinations, said to

have been discovered some 1800 years ago; it’s an attractive village, nestled

around a rapidly flowing, narrow river in a wooded valley. Many travellers

choose to stay a night or two in Hongū or Yunomine, to take advantage of

the baths or to do one of the short day hikes around Hongū.

1 Sights

o Kumano Hongū Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 熊野本宮大社; www.hongutaisha.jp; h6am-7pm; p) F

Kumano Hongū Taisha is one of the Kumano Sanzan (three great shrines of

Kumano) and if you’re following the traditional pilgrim route, it’s the first

one you’ll encounter. Though the shrine has been rebuilt many times over

the years, it remains an excellent example of Japanese shrine architecture,

made of unpainted wood using traditional carpentry techniques and with the

signature chigi (cross-hatched beams) on the roof.

The shrine was originally located at Ōyunohara, a large sandbar in the

Kumanogawa and the original site of worship, but it was relocated here after

flooding in 1889. It’s now located on a tree-covered ridge, up a flight of

stone steps.

In 2000 a giant torii (entrance gate to a Shintō shrine), Ōtorii (大鳥居),

33.9m tall and 42m wide, made out of steel, painted dramatic black and the

largest in Japan, was erected at the entrance to Ōyunohara.

Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre

MUSEUM

(世界遺産熊野本宮館; %0735-42-0751; 100-1 Hongū; h9am-5pm; p) F

Part museum, part visitor centre, this contemporary multimedia complex has

exhibits about Kumano’s culture and natural environment, plus English-

speaking staff and resources for travellers.

Hosshinmon-ōji

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 発心門王子)

The last of the five major ōji (smaller shrines along the Kumano Kodō)

before Kumano Hongū Taisha, Hosshinmon-ōji marks the outer limits of the

grand shrine’s precincts and literally means ‘spiritual awakening gate’. It’s a

small building, painted red, and has a stone torii.

Tōkō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(東光寺; Yunomine)

This temple in the middle of Yunomine Onsen is just above Tsubo-yu Onsen,

and like many hot springs adjacent to temples, is dedicated to Yakushi

Nyorai, the medicine Buddha.

2 Activities

o Tsubo-yu

ONSEN

(つぼ湯; Yunomine; ¥770; h6am-9.30pm)

Right in the middle of Yunomine, this hot spring is inside a tiny wooden

shack built on an island in the river. You can use it privately – it holds up to

two people – on a first-come, first-served basis for up to 30 minutes. Rinse

off at the tap before entering (no soap, shampoo or swimsuits allowed).

Admission includes entry to one of the baths at Yunomine Public

Bathhouse, which you can visit afterwards. For Tsubo-yu, first purchase a

ticket at the public bathhouse; you’ll be given a number card that indicates

your place in the queue. When your number comes up, hang the card outside

the bath; return it to the ticket counter when your time is up. Unfortunately,

you can’t pop into the public bathhouse while you’re waiting.

Sennin Buro

ONSEN

( MAP ; 仙人風呂; Kawa-yu; h6.30am-10pm) F

Kawa-yu Onsen is a natural wonder: geothermally heated water percolates

up through the gravel banks of the river. In winter, from December to the

end of February, bulldozers are used to turn the river into a giant rotemburo.

It’s known as the Sennin Buro (thousand-person bath), though whether it

holds 1000 people is anyone’s guess.

The rest of the year you can make your own bath by digging out some of

the stones and letting the hole fill with hot water; then spend the day

jumping back and forth between the bath and the cool river water. The best

spots are in front of Fujiya ryokan. Bring a bathing suit year-round.

Yunomine Public Bathhouse

ONSEN

(湯の峰温泉公衆浴場; Yunomine; regular bath ¥260, kusuri-yu ¥390; h6am-10pm)

There are two baths here: the kusuri-yu (literally ‘medicine water’) uses

100% pure hot-spring water; the regular one uses diluted water. Unlike most

bathhouses, this one prohibits soap and shampoo (the sulphur content of the

water does the trick instead); just rinse off at the taps before getting in.

Watarase Onsen Big Rotemburo

ONSEN

(わたらせ温泉大露天風呂; 45-1 Watarase; ¥700; h6am-9.30pm, private baths 8am-7pm)

This sprawling onsen complex, in a wooded vale, contains multiple pools of

clear sodiumchloride springs that get progressively cooler as you work your

way out from the inside bath, which works well no matter the season. There

are also private baths that can be rented (¥1500 per person per hour).

4 Sleeping

Hongū has the greatest selection of accommodations along the Kumano

Kodō. There are a few convenient guesthouses in town and more clustered in

the village of Yunomine. There are a few more isolated accommodations

strung along the river in Kawa-yu. Watarase has some larger hotels that cater

more to bus package travellers.

J-Hoppers Kumano Yunomine

HOSTEL

¥

(ジェイホッパーズ熊野湯峰; 161 Yunomine; dm/r from ¥3500/10,000; pnaW)

This old minshuku was recently converted into a hostel by the reliable J-

Hoppers team. There are spacious, cabin-style bunks and private Japanese-

style rooms, all with shared facilities, which include three small onsen baths

that can be used privately. There’s free rice porridge in the morning, cup

noodles for sale, cooking facilities, coin-operated laundry machines and a

social vibe.

It’s located at the top of town, up the road from Tsubo-yu.

o Blue Sky Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(蒼空げすとはうす; %0735-42-0800; www.kumano-guesthouse.com; 1526 Hongū; r per

person with breakfast from ¥6000, single travellers ¥7000; pnaW)

An excellent modern B&B in a glen near central Hongū, with immaculate,

comfortably minimalist design, lots of Englishlanguage sightseeing info and

laundry machines. Its four Japanese rooms have private facilities.

The nearest bus stop is Dainichigoe Nobori-guchi; not all Hongū-bound

buses stop here, so otherwise it’s a 10-minute walk to the southern end of

town from Hongū Taishamae bus stop. There’s detailed information on the

website.

Minshuku Yunotanisō

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(民宿湯の谷荘; %0735-42-1620; www.kumano-travel.com; 168-1 Yunomine; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥9500; paW)

At the upper end of the village of Yunomine, this seven-room minshuku is

exactly what a minshuku should be: simple, clean and welcoming. Only one

room has an en-suite toilet; the shared baths, both indoor and outdoor, are

fed by hot springs. Meals include local ingredients cooked in onsen water.

Reserve through Kumano Travel.

There’s no surcharge for single travellers, but the inn does not usually

accept single bookings on Saturday or national holidays.

Pension Ashita-no-Mori

PENSION

¥¥

(ペンションあしたの森; %0735-42-1525; www.ashitanomori.jp; 1440-2 Kawa-yu; s/tw

from ¥7000/14,000; pnW)

This Swiss chalet–style building sits across from the riverside hot springs in

Kawa-yu. There’s a big communal dining area on the ground floor and

upstairs Western-style twin rooms; shared facilities include an onsen bath.

Breakfast is ¥1000; for dinner, order from the à la carte menu (mains ¥780 to

¥4980), which includes simple curry dishes and Kumano-beef steaks.

Use the laundry machine for free (extra charge for the dryer).

Ryokan Yoshino-ya

RYOKAN

¥¥

(旅館よしのや; %0735-42-0101; 359 Yunomine; r per person with/without 2 meals from

¥11,100/6950, single surcharge ¥1080/2600; paW)

In Yunomine, just steps from Tsuboyu, is this modern ryokan perched above

the river with lovely views. It’s fairly new, the owners are very friendly, and

the onsen rotemburo is especially nice. Rooms have no private facilities. Wi-

fi in the lobby.

Fujiya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 冨士屋; %0735-42-0007; www.fuziya.co.jp; 1452 Kawa-yu; r per person with meals from

¥17,900, single surcharge ¥8400; paW)

This upmarket ryokan features tasteful and spacious rooms, all with river

views and private facilities in addition to onsen baths. There are some chic

Western-style rooms, too (doubles with meals from ¥52,140), with en-suite

rotemburo. Service is accommodating and there’s a lift. It’s closest to the

Sennin Buro.

DON’T MISS

KUMANO RIVER BOAT TOUR

The traditional way to end the Kumano Kodō pilgrimage is with a ride down the Kumano-gawa

in a wooden vessel, re-created today in these 90-minute tours in old-fashioned sampans. Local

guides narrate stories connected with the natural landmarks passed on the way; request an

English-speaking guide (usually available; otherwise you’ll get a pamphlet to help you follow

along).

Boats require a minimum of three passengers (total) to depart. Reservations are a must,

though if you’re travelling solo you might be able to squeeze in; you can book directly (in

Japanese) or through Kumano Travel.

Boats depart from the Kumano River Boat Centre (熊野川川舟センター; %9am-5pm

0735-44-0987; http://kawabune.info; 47 Tanago, Kumano-gawa-chō; adult/child ¥3900/2000;

h10am & 2.30pm Mar-Nov, closed irregularly) at Dorokyō-kaidō Kumano-gawa Michi-no-eki,

a road stop next to the river halfway between Hongū and Shingū, and arrive in Shingū, very

near Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Arrive at least 30 minutes before departure. Buses from Hongū

(30 to 50 minutes) are timed perfectly; take a Shingū-bound bus at 8.30am or 1.20pm and get

off at Michi-no-Eki Kumano-gawa stop, in front of the road stop.

There are a number of reasons the tour may be cancelled (such as too much or too little water

in the river); have your lodging call ahead in the morning. In the event of a cancellation, and

you have a booking and show up anyway, staff will be there to meet the bus to tell you to stay

on and continue to Shingū.

5 Eating

Hongū has some restaurants, and even a small grocery store, though few

options for dinner. In Yunomine, near Tsubo-yu, look for the yutzusu, a

public cooking facility where you can cook eggs and more in onsen water

(Yunomine’s spring comes out naturally at 93°C); some local shops sell

eggs. There’s a simple shokudō at Watarase.

Kumanoko Shokudō

SHOKUDO

¥¥

(くまのこ食堂; %0735-30-0878; 452−1 Hongū; lunch set ¥1200-2750, dinner dishes ¥350-1200;

h11am-9pm Thu-Wed; p)

This new restaurant – the only place in Hongū serving regularly after dark

and naturally a gathering spot – dishes up small plates made with local

ingredients, such as river fish, free-range eggs and venison, paired with craft

beer and gin cocktails. At lunch it does set meals. Look for the white banner

out the front.

Cafe Bonheur

VEGAN

¥¥

(カフェボヌール; %0735-42-1833; www.bonheurcompany.com; 436-1 Hongū; lunch mains

¥750-1000, dinner set meal ¥1200-3000; hnoon-3pm, dinner by reservation from 5pm, closed Wed;

pWv)

An unexpected treasure at Hongū’s southern end is this vegan cafe in a

former post office (with the wooden floors and clapboard walls to prove it).

It does lunch plates with curry, tofu, salads, and bagel sandwiches. For

dinner, ask your innkeeper to make a reservation.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Fushiogami-chaya

TEAHOUSE

(伏拝茶屋; 157 Fushiogami; coffee & juice ¥200; h9am-5pm daily Apr, May & Nov, 9am-5pm

Fri-Mon Jun-Aug, 9am-3.30pm Sat & Sun Dec-Mar)

Along the Nakahechi trail halfway between Hosshinmon-ōji and Kumano

Hongū Taisha – about an hour’s walk from each – is this inviting pit stop run

by a gang of local ladies. It serves homemade shiso (perilla-leaf) juice,

which comes out a shocking-pink colour, and coffee brewed with water from

the sulphur-rich springs of Yunomine. Seating is on benches out the front.

Cafe Alma

CAFE

(カフェアルマ; www.kumano.shop; 195-3 Hongū; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun;

W)

Get coffee (¥300), castella (Nagasakistyle sponge cake; ¥250) and a seat on

the terrace, across the street from the Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre.

8 Information

Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre Doubles as the town’s tourist-information

centre and post office.

Torii no mise (とりいの店; %0735-42-097; http://toriinomise.com; 195-3 Hongū; h9am-

5pm Fri-Wed) Store luggage here (¥500 per item per day) or have it shipped to

Shingū (¥2300 per item) or Nachi-Katsuura (¥2600 per item). It’s across the

street from the heritage centre.

8 Getting There & Away

The bus stop for Hongū is Hongū Taisha-mae, in front of the Kumano

Hongū Heritage Centre and adjacent to the shrine. Buses depart from stop 2

in front of Kii-Tanabe Station for Hongū Taisha-mae (¥2060, 2¼ hours,

seven daily) and also from stop 2 in front of Shingū Station (¥1540, one hour

20 minutes, 14 daily). Many of these buses also stop at the nearby onsen

towns of Yunomine, Watarase and Kawa-yu.

It’s possible to travel directly to Hongū by local bus from JR Gojō Station

(¥3200, four hours) and Kintetsu Yamato-Yagi Station (¥3950, five hours

and 10 minutes), both in Nara Prefecture to the north (and accessible by train

from Nara); these buses, operated by Nara Kotsu, run only a few times a day.

8 Getting Around

Ten buses daily running along various routes connect Hongū with the onsen

villages Yunomine, Watarase and Kawa-yu (all ¥300). All buses depart from

Hongū Taisha-mae, though the exact stop number and travel time (between

10 and 30 minutes) vary depending on the route. To double-check you’re on

the right bus, tell the driver where you’d like to get off. Buses also run to

Hosshinmon-ōji (¥460, 15 minutes, seven daily April to November, five

daily December to March).

It’s possible to walk between the onsen villages. Yunomine is the closest

to Hongū; from the southern end of town, pick up the Kumano Kodō

Dainichi-goe trail, which goes to Yunomine in an hour or two (it’s a steep up

and down). From Yunomine to Watase it’s another 40 minutes along a road.

A tunnel (with a narrow sidewalk for pedestrians) connects Watarase and

Kawa-yu; it’s about a 10-minute walk between the two.

Shingū 新宮

%0735 / POP 32,900

The small city of Shingū (新宮), on the eastern coast of the Kii Peninsula, is

a useful transport hub for access to the Kumano Kodō and hosts one of its

three main shrines, Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Many travellers arrive here

via traditional sampan on the Kumano River Boat Tour.

1 Sights

Kumano Hayatama Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 熊野速玉大社; %0735-22-2533; 1 Shingū; h6am-7pm; p) F

Located at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa, Kumano Hayatama Taisha is one

of the Kumano Sanzan (three sacred shrines of Kumano), enshrining

Hayatama-no-Okami, the god said to rule the workings of nature and, by

extension, all life. Though ancient in origin, the current building is a 1951

reconstruction, painted a vibrant shade of vermilion. Look out for the

impressively thick shimenawa (sacred rope) and what’s said to be Japan’s

oldest conifer.

Gotobiki-iwa

SHINTO SITE

(ゴトビキ岩)

According to the Kumano faith, this large boulder, wedged on the side of

Gongen-yama, was where the three principal gods descended to earth. It was

the original site of worship, before Kumano Hayatama Taisha was built

nearby. It’s a somewhat tricky climb up the 538 uneven steps to the rock,

where there’s a small shrine, Kamikura-jinja.

It’s a 15-minute walk south to the start of the climb from Kumano

Hayatama Taisha.

WHALE MEAT

The International Whaling Commission (IWC) bans commercial whaling, a stance the Japanese

government opposes. Certain coastal communities on the Kii Peninsula, specifically Nachi-

Katsuura, Kushimoto and especially Taiji, have a long tradition of whaling. In these areas,

whale meat is likely to appear on some restaurant menus. It’s unlikely that you’ll be served it as

part of the standard dinner course at a ryokan (inn) or minshuku (guesthouse), though either

may offer it upon request. Travellers who feel strongly about not patronising businesses that

serve whale meat should inquire when booking or before sitting down. Ask, ‘Kujira no niku o

dashimasu ka?’ (‘Do you serve whale meat’, クジラの肉を出しますか？).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Shingū has a few business hotels and minshuku near the station.

There are several restaurants clustered around the station and on the way

to the shrine; most are open for lunch and dinner.

Hotel New Palace

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテルニューパレス; %0735-28-1500; www.hotel-newpalace.com; 7683-18 Shingū; s/d/tw

¥7000/11,500/13,000; pnaiW)

For a break from minshuku, this contemporary business hotel with bigger-

than-average rooms is the nicest place in town. There’s a large common bath

in addition to en-suite facilities, and coin-operated laundry machines. The

breakfast buffet costs ¥800. It’s a five-minute walk from Shingū Station.

Tensui

JAPANESE

¥¥

(天酔; %0735-21-3175; 1-3-12 Isada-chō; dishes ¥630-840, set meals ¥1200-1500; h11am-2pm &

5-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

With its cluster of private rooms and regulars’ personal whisky bottles kept

on the shelves, Tensui has a local vibe, but it has happily embraced the

trickle of overseas travellers passing though on the Kumano Kodō. The

proprietress is quite proud of her reasonably priced o-tsukuri teishoku

(sashimi set meal; ¥1500) and tempura teishoku (¥1200).

8 Information

Shingū Tourist Association (新宮市観光協会; %0735-22-2840; www.shinguu.jp;

h9am-5.30pm; W) Attached to JR Shingū Station, with English-speaking staff

and useful maps of the town, including one with restaurants marked. Bike

rental is available (¥500 per day; return by 5pm).

8 Getting There & Away

Shingū can be reached from Osaka to the west and Nagoya to the east.

Reserved-seat Kuroshio liner tokkyū trains run six times daily on the JR

Kinokuni line to Shingū from Tennōji (Osaka; ¥6690, four hours) and Shin-

Osaka (¥6690, 4¼ hours).

From Nagoya there are four daily JR Wideview Nanki liner tokkyū trains

bound for Shingū (¥6870, 3½ hours); this route uses a small section of

private-rail track, so JR Pass holders need to pay a surcharge of ¥820 to ride.

Buses depart from stop 2 in front of Shingū Station for Hongū Taisha-mae

(¥1540, one hour 20 minutes, 14 daily). A few of these buses also stop at the

onsen villages of Kawa-yu (¥1540, one hour), Watarase (¥1540, one hour)

and Yunomine (¥1540, one hour 10 minutes) en route.

8 Getting Around

Any of the local buses departing from platform 4 or the Kii-Katsuura

Station–bound buses departing from platform 1 outside Shingū Station stop

at Gongen-mae (¥200, five minutes), the stop for Kumano Hayatama Taisha;

you can also walk there in 20 minutes.

Nachi-Katsuura 那智勝浦

%0735 / POP 15,300

The principal attractions in Nachi-Katsuura (那智勝浦) are Kumano Nachi

Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan (the three sacred shrines of Kumano),

and Japan’s tallest waterfall, Nachi-no-taki. Beyond the shrine and the falls

are the Nachi mountains, considered some of Japan’s remotest. The town

itself, centred on Kii-Katsuura train station, is on the coast and has a long

fishing tradition; this is where you’ll find food and lodging.

1 Sights

o Nachi-no-taki

WATERFALL

( MAP ; 那智の滝)

At 133m, Nachi-no-taki is Japan’s highest waterfall. It’s the first of many

still deeper in the Nachi mountains and has long been used in ascetic

training.

For a close-up look at the falls, hike the 135 steps to a small shrine, Hirō-

jinja ( MAP ; 飛瀧神社; ¥300; h7am-4.30pm), which has a viewing platform (it’s

also the spot from which to worship the falls). Drinking water from the

dragon’s mouth at the font (use your hands as a bowl) is believed to enhance

longevity.

Kumano Nachi Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 熊野那智大社; h6am-4.30pm) F

Built on the side of a mountain, facing the waterfall Nachi-no-taki, this

shrine is one of Kii’s most spiritual places, a site of ancient nature worship

and one of the Kumano Sanzan (three great shrines of Kumano). The deity

worshipped here is the waterfall itself, believed to be a kami. After visiting

the shrine, walk down to the falls.

It’s a 30-minute walk up 467 stairs from the nearest bus stop (Nachi-san)

to the shrine. Get more atmosphere (and exercise) by starting at Daimon-

zaka, the official approach (with another 267 steps), lined with cedar trees.

At the entrance to Daimonzaka are two particularly tall and sturdy trees

nicknamed meoto-sugi (‘married-couple cedars’); it’s naturally a popular

photo spot.

Seiganto-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 青岸渡寺; h5am-4.30pm) F

This wooden temple, absent of colour and next to the Shintō shrine Kumano

Nachi Taisha, was last rebuilt in 1590, making it the oldest building in Kii

(legend takes its founding back another 1000-plus years). The gong above

the offering box in the main hall is the largest in Japan, a gift from warlord

Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

The temple’s three-storey pagoda, a vividly painted modern

reconstruction, has views of Nachi-no-taki waterfall from the upper level

(admission ¥300). The pagoda foregrounding the waterfall has become the

classic image of Nachi.

z Festivals & Events

Nachi-no-Ōgi Matsuri

CULTURAL

(Nachi Fire Festival; h14 Jul)

Mikoshi (portable shrines) are brought down from Kumano Nachi Taisha on

the mountain to the waterfall Nachi-no-taki, where they’re met by groups

bearing dramatic, flaming torches (believed to have a purifying effect). This

is one of Japan’s three biggest fire festivals.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation here is limited to a handful of minshuku around Kii-

Katsuura Station. Further south along the coast are some larger (though

mostly dated) resort-style hotels, but you’ll need your own transport to reach

them.

A few small restaurants around Kii-Katsuura Station are open for lunch

and dinner. Food near the sights is limited to the few shokudō and teahouses

open during the day on the road between Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi-

no-taki. The local speciality is maguro (bluefin tuna).

Minshuku Kosakaya

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(民宿小坂屋; %0735-52-0335; http://kosakaya.jp; 1-18 Kita-hama; r per person with/without

meals from ¥7950/5150; paW)

The fourth-generation Kosaka family of innkeepers opened this modern and

polished building in 2015. The current-generation Kosaka-san doesn’t speak

much English but makes up for it with enthusiasm. Hearty meals include

local seafood. There are common onsen baths, and some rooms have a

private bath (extra charge). Laundry machines are available.

From Kii-Katsuura Station, walk through the arch down the shopping

street; it’s about 300m ahead on the right.

8 Information

Nachi-Katsuura Tourist Information Centre (那智勝浦町観光協会;

%0735-52-5311; www.nachikan.jp; 6-1-1 Tsukiji; h8.30am-6pm) Inside Kii-Katsuura train

station, with lots of English brochures. Get bus info at the adjacent bus stop.

8 Getting There & Away

Nachi-Katsuura has several train stations, the most useful of which are Kii-

Katsuura (the largest, most central station) and Nachi, closest to the sights.

Reserved-seat Kuroshio liner tokkyū trains run six times daily on the JR

Kinokuni line to Kii-Katsuura from Tennōji (Osaka; ¥6370, 3¾ hours) and

Shin-Osaka (¥6370, four hours). Local trains continue on the JR Kinokuni

line north to Nachi (¥140, five minutes) and Shingū (¥240, 25 minutes); the

limited express also continues to Shingū (¥890, 20 minutes). From Kii-

Katsuura there are three daily JR Wideview Nanki liner limited-express

trains bound for Nagoya (¥7200, 3¾ hours); this route uses a small section

of private-rail track, so JR Pass holders need to pay a surcharge of ¥820 to

ride.

8 Getting Around

Buses depart hourly from Kii-Katsuura (¥620, 25 minutes) and Nachi (¥480,

17 minutes) Stations for Nachi-san, the stop for Nachi Taisha shrine (for

Nachi-no-taki waterfall, get off one minute earlier at Nachi-no-taki-mae; the

price is the same). En route, buses also stop at Daimon-zaka (from Kii-

Katsuura ¥420, 20 minutes; from Nachi ¥340, 10 minutes), the official

approach to the shrine. If you’re starting from Kii-Katsuura you can

purchase a return bus ticket to Nachi-san for ¥1000 from the kiosk at the bus

stop.

ISE-SHIMA 伊勢志摩

%0596

Ise-Shima (伊勢志摩) is the bit of Mie Prefecture that juts out into the

ocean. Far and away the top attraction here is Ise-jingū, Japan’s most sacred

Shintō shrine, believed to have been founded in the 3rd century. The

buildings are rare examples of pre-Buddhist Japanese architecture: according

to tradition, the shrines are rebuilt every 20 years, with exact imitations on

adjacent sites according to ancient techniques – no nails; only wooden

dowels and interlocking joints. The present buildings were rebuilt in 2013.

With a car you can travel further along the coast, for seaside views and

seafood lunches with local ama (mostly female professional shellfish

divers), who are famous in these parts.

1 Sights

Ise-jingū (伊勢神宮, Ise Grand Shrine) F is in two parts – Gekū, the outer shrine,

and Naikū, the more important inner shrine, several kilometres away – with

both set in sprawling, deeply forested precincts. Unfortunately, the main

sanctuaries at both Naikū and Gekū are almost completely hidden from view

behind wooden fences – though you can just about make out their distinctive

roofs, with their cross-hatched finials (called chigi) that are a hallmark of

early Shintō architecture. Both shrine precincts have smaller subsidiary

shrines that are visible to the public and are designed in the same style as the

main sanctuaries.

Smoking is prohibited throughout the grounds of both shrines and

photography is forbidden around their main halls. Information booths at the

entrances to both shrines have English maps of the precincts.

o Naikū

SHINTO SHRINE

(内宮, Inner Shrine) F

Ise-jingū’s inner shrine is dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu-

Ōmikami, considered the ancestral goddess of the imperial family and

guardian deity of the Japanese nation. Naikū is particularly revered because

it houses the sacred mirror of the emperor, one of three imperial regalia – the

other two are the sacred beads – at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, and the

sacred sword, at Atsuta-jingū in Nagoya).

At the entrance to the precincts you’ll cross the bridge Uji-bashi over the

crystal-clear river Isuzu-gawa. The path continues along an avenue lined

with towering cryptomeria trees, under several torii, to the Goshōden, the

main shrine building (which is fenced off). Working your way back, pay a

visit to some of the smaller shrines on the grounds, such as the Mishine-no-

Mikura (where rice offered to the gods is stored), whose architecture

resembles that of the off-limits main shrine.

Gekū

SHINTO SHRINE

(外宮, Outer Shrine; hsunrise-sunset) F

Ise-jingū’s outer shrine dates from the 5th century and enshrines the god of

food, clothing and housing, Toyo’uke-no-Ōmikami. Daily offerings of rice

are made by shrine priests to the deity, who is charged with providing food

to Amaterasu-Ōmikami, the goddess enshrined at Naikū. The main shrine

building here is Goshōden, about 10 minutes’ walk from the shrine entrance.

Adjacent to the main shrine are three smaller shrines that are not fenced off.

Oharai-machi

STREET

(おはらい町)

This street approaching Naikū was developed in the Edo period (1603–

1868), when pilgrimages to Ise-jingū were at an all-time high, to provide

visitors with food, drink and souvenirs. It’s still doing that, and while the

buildings aren’t quite that old (though some of the businesses are), they

retain the atmosphere of centuries past.

Most restaurants open from 11am, but some spots, such as Akafuku

Honten, open earlier. Most places shut around dusk.

z Festivals & Events

As it is Japan’s most sacred shrine, it’s not surprising that Ise-jingū is a

favourite destination for hatsu-mōde (the first shrine visit of the New Year).

Most of the action takes place in the first three days of the year, when

millions of worshippers pack the area and accommodation is booked out

months in advance.

Kagura-sai

PERFORMING ARTS

(hlate Apr & mid-Sep)

Sacred dances (kagura) are performed twice annually, over three days, on

the grounds of Naikū.

4 Sleeping

Accommodation is clustered around Ise-shi Station, including guesthouses,

ryokan and business hotels. Those on the south side of the station are more

convenient for the sights. Considering its status as a major tourist attraction,

Ise has fewer lodgings than you might expect; book in advance.

If you are travelling by car, you can consider staying further out on the

peninsula, around Toba, where there are more resort-style hotels and ryokan,

including some with ocean views.

o Ise Guest House Kazami

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(風見荘, Kazami-sō; %0596-63-9170; www.ise-guesthouse.com; 1-6-36 Fukiage; dm/s/d/tr

¥3500/7000/8000/11,000; naiW)

Newly renovated, with natural timber paneling, contemporary amenities

(including a kitchen and laundry facilities), a communal lounge and a very

chill vibe, this guesthouse stands out among the business hotels near JR Ise-

shi Station (a two-minute walk away). So long as you don’t mind futons and

shared baths. Check-in is 4pm–9pm; rental bikes (¥500 per day) are

available.

Asakichi Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(麻吉旅館; %0596-22-4101; iseasakichiryokan@gmail.com; 109 Nakano-chō, Ise-shi; r per person

with/without 2 meals ¥12,960/7560; pnaW)

This six-room ryokan, running for over 200 years, occupies a wonderfully

rambling old building roughly halfway between Gekū and Naikū. There’s a

nice common bath, and four rooms have en-suite bathrooms. Book through

Japanese Guest Houses (www.japaneseguesthouses.com).

Take bus 1 or 2 from stop 7 outside Ise-shi Station (towards Urata-chō)

and get off at Nakano-chō, in front of the inn (about 10 minutes); you can

get buses to both shrines from the same stop. A taxi from the station should

cost about ¥1000. If you’re not eating at the inn, get dinner before you arrive

as there are no restaurants nearby.

Hoshide-kan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(星出館; %0596-28-2377; www.hoshidekan.jp; 2-15-2 Kawasaki; s/d/tr from ¥5350/10,500/15,575, with breakfast ¥6300/12,500/18,750; pnaiW)

A foreign-travellers’ favourite, this 10-room ryokan in a nearly 100-year-old

wooden building has heaps of traditional atmosphere and friendly, English-

speaking staff. Facilities are shared, but the bath can be used privately. It’s a

10-minute walk from Ise-shi Station, on the north side. Bicycle rental is

¥300 per day.

Look for Ise City Hotel and keeping going down the main road to the

second light (400m); the ryokan will be on your right.

Denyō

RYOKAN

¥¥

(伝洋; %0599-33-6166; www.denyou.gr.jp; 255-2 Ōsatsu-cho, Toba-shi; r per person incl 2 meals

¥8000-22,000; paW)

Squat and concrete, family-run Denyō doesn’t look like much but delivers

on dinner, which features fresh local specialities such as ise-ebi (spiny

lobster), oysters, sashimi and abalone (depending on season). Some of the

simple tatami rooms have private toilets; all share the hot-spring-fed baths.

Very little English is spoken, but some written information in English is

provided to guests. You’ll want a car to get here.

Sanco Inn Iseshi Eki-mae

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

(三交イン伊勢市駅前; %0596-20-3539; www.sanco-inn.co.jp/ise; 1-1-1 Miyajiri; s/d from

¥7600/12,600)

Only a few years old, this is the nicest of the business hotels clustered

around Ise-shi Station, on the south side just a two-minute walk away. Book

a deluxe double for a bigger (160cm wide) bed. There’s a communal bath (in

addition to in-room facilities) and coin-operated laundry machines.

Ise Shinsen

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(伊勢神泉; %0596-26-0100; www.iseshinsen.jp; 1-1 Hon-machi; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥25,000; naW)

This contemporary ryokan has a mix of Japanese- and Western-style rooms,

all with indoor showers and rotemburo on the balconies, discreetly hidden

from outside view. It’s right in front of Ise-shi Station (on the south side).

Full-course dinners of traditional Japanese cuisine (included) are served in

the ground-floor restaurant.

Todaya

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(戸田家; %0599-25-2500; www.todaya.co.jp; 1-24-26 Toba, Toba-shi; d incl 2 meals from ¥25,000; naW)

This sprawling, all-inclusive resort hotel on the waterfront in Toba has a

huge variety of ocean view rooms (mostly Japanese-style, but some have

beds), meal packages (buffet and in-room banquets) onsen baths and other

entertainment facilities (like a karaoke room). Go for the more contemporary

south wing, updated in 2018. It’s a few minutes’ walk from JR Toba Station.

ISE’S AMA DIVERS

Ise-shima’s Toba is home to about 1000 ama: professional, mostly female, shellfish divers – the

largest population in Japan (and accounting for about half of the total number of ama). Theirs is

a millennia-long tradition, one that is shared with Korea. While ama have made some

concessions to keep up with the times (they now wear wetsuits), they still free dive, waists

strapped with weights, holding their breath for up to a minute to pry sazae (turban shells) and

other shellfish off rocks with a metal hook. In Ise’s community, the oldest active divers are in

their 80s.

The ama dive in the mornings and, because they’re apparently indefatigable, cook lunches

for visitors at their ama-goya (shellfish-divers’ hut), Osatsu Komado (相差かまど;

https://osatsu.org/en; Osatsu-chō, Toba; set meal adult/child ¥3500/1000; h11.30am-2pm). Over a charcoal pit, the women grill seafood – including items from the morning haul – and entertain

with stories about their (sometimes treacherous) lives at sea. Some Japanese ability is necessary

to appreciate the latter, but they’re warm and welcoming and eager to feed international visitors.

Book in advance online by 5pm the preceding day, and look out for a follow-up email (in

English) from them to confirm. Unless your party is large, be sure to book Ozegosan, the

smaller hut, perched on the cliff with spectacular views over the sea.

You can get to Osatsu Komado by public transport, but it’s a bit of a trek. From Ise’s

Ujiyamada Station, take a Kintestu Toba line train to Toba (¥300, 15 minutes), arriving in time

to get the 10.27am local ‘Kamome’ bus to Kuzaki (国崎; ¥600, 45 minutes), the nearest stop,

from where it’s a 10-minute walk to the their place. You’ll have to wait until 3.26pm to get a

return bus – better to have a car!

5 Eating

Gekū-sandō, the approach to Gekū, is full of restaurants. Around Naikū,

head to Oharai-machi. There are lots of restaurants to choose from, but note

that many close by early evening (or late afternoon). Local specialities are

fish and seafood from Ise-wan and the dish tekone-sushi (bonito dipped in

soy sauce and served atop a rice bowl).

Akafuku Honten

SWEETS

¥

(赤福本店; %0596-22-7000; www.akafuku.co.jp; 26 Ujinakanokiri-chō; set with tea ¥210; h5am-5pm)

Akafuku has been making its signature style of mochi (pounded-rice cakes),

coated in sweet adzuki-bean paste, for over three centuries. There are several

branches around town, but it’s worth visiting the main shop in Oharai-machi

– the only one that opens at 5am for early-morning pilgrims – for its historic

building and river-view terrace.

Sushi-kyū

SUSHI

¥¥

(すし久; %0596-27-0229; 20 Ujinakanokiri-chō; set meal ¥1850-2380; h10.30am-7pm, to 5pm

Tue)

Occupying a former ryokan from the early 19th century, Sushi-kyū is known

as the go-to spot for Ise’s speciality, tekone-sushi (bonito dipped in soy sauce

and served atop a rice bowl). It’s served as a set that goes up in grade (and

number of side dishes) from ‘ume’ to ‘take’ to ‘matsu’.

The shop is in Oharai-machi, just before the Okage-yokochō entrance.

Butasute

JAPANESE

¥¥

(豚捨; %0596-23-8802; 52 Ujinakanokiri-chō; meals from ¥1000; hrestaurant 11am-6pm Apr-Sep,

to 5pm Oct-Mar, takeaway counter from 9am)

This local institution specialises in gyū-don (sliced beef on rice). Early-

morning shrine visitors can pick up menchi katsu (croquettes stuffed with

minced beef; ¥150) from the takeaway counter. The shop is in Okage-

yokochō, a more contemporary cluster of restaurants connected to Oharai-

machi.

There’s another location (豚捨外宮前店; %0596-25-1129; 1-1-33 Iwabuchi; meals

from ¥1000; h11am-3pm & 5-8pm Fri-Wed) which is open later by Gekū.

Daiki

SEAFOOD

¥¥

(大喜; %0596-28-0281; http://ise.ne.jp/daiki; 2-1-48 Iwabuchi; meals ¥800-4000; h11am-9pm; p) Signage reading ‘Japan’s most famous restaurant’ may be an exaggeration,

but this is a reliably polished place to sample a huge variety of local seafood

dishes, including reasonably priced tempura and tekone-sushi teishoku (soy-

dipped bonito set meals) – or splurge on an ise-ebi (Japanese lobster; market

price). It’s right in front of Uji-Yamada Station, in a wooden building.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Isuzu-gawa Cafe

CAFE

(五十鈴川カフェ; %0596-23-9002; 52 Ujinakanokiri-chō; coffee ¥450; h9am-5pm)

This cafe is in one of Oharai-machi’s beautifully maintained wooden

buildings, but set back from the street, with window- and terrace-front views

over the clear waters of the Isuzu-gawa. Come before 11am to get the

‘morning set’ (¥550), which includes coffee, toast, a hard-boiled egg and

yoghurt.

Dandelion Chocolate

CAFE

(ダンデライオン・チョコレート; %0596-63-6631; https://dandelionchocolate.jp; 20-24

Hon-machi; h10am-5pm)

Small-batch-chocolate speciality shop Dandelion serves decadent hot

chocolates (¥580 to ¥630), along with cookies and brownies (¥330 to ¥450);

the stylish cafe has several books on Ise-jingū to peruse, including a few in

English.

It’s across the street from the entrance to Gekū.

8 Information

LEFT LUGGAGE

Ise-shi Station Baggage Storage Office (伊勢市駅手荷物預かり所; %0596-

65-6861; h9am-5.30pm) Offers luggage storage (¥500 per day per item) and

forwarding to any Ise-Shima hotel (¥1000 per item); for the latter service,

drop off your luggage by 1pm and it will be delivered by 5pm the same day.

The office is outside the south side of Ise-shi Station, on the left as you exit.

MONEY

The post office adjacent to the main Tourist Information Center has an ATM

that accepts international bankcards; there’s also a post office in Oharai-

machi.

TOURIST INFORMATION

The main Tourist Information Center (外宮前観光協会; %0596-23-3323; 16-2

Hon-machi, Ise-shi; h8.30am-5pm) is across the street from Gekū (about 10 minutes’

walk from Ise-shi Station). There’s a smaller information office in Ise-shi

Station; both offices have English-speaking staff and useful maps.

8 Getting There & Away

Ise-shi Station (JR and Kintetsu lines) is the most useful stop for sights and

accommodation. Nagoya is the nearest transit hub.

The JR Rapid Mie train connects Nagoya and Ise-shi Station (¥2000, 1½

hours, hourly). This is the best way to go for Japan Rail Pass holders (even if

you’re coming from Kyoto/Osaka; take a shinkansen first to Nagoya),

though you’ll have to pay a ¥510 surcharge to ride the Rapid Mie (as it

shares some non-JR tracks).

The Kintetsu line runs comfortable, reserved-seat tokkyū trains between

Ise-shi and Nagoya (¥2770, one hour and 20 minutes, twice hourly), Osaka

(Uehonmachi or Namba Stations; ¥3120, 1¾ hours, hourly) and Kyoto

(¥3620, two hours, infrequent).

8 Getting Around

Gekū is a 10-minute walk south of Ise-shi Station; take the more attractive

Gekū-sandō, one block east of the main street.

For Naikū, take bus 51 or 55 from bus stop 10 outside the south side of

Ise-shi Station to Naikū-mae (¥430, 20 minutes); you can pick up the same

bus from stop 2 in front of Gekū. The first bus departs for Naikū around 7am

and by mid-morning they run every 10 minutes.

Return buses depart from Naikū-mae bus stop 2; the last one to Ise-shi

Station goes at 6pm. A taxi between Ise-shi Station and Naikū should cost

around ¥2000; there’s a taxi stand at the train station and in front of the

shrine.

A limited number of rental bicycles (¥800 for four hours) are available

from the main Tourist Information Center and the Ise-shi Station Baggage

Storage Office

SHIGA PREFECTURE 滋賀県

Just across the Higashiyama mountains from Kyoto, Shiga Prefecture (滋賀

県, Shiga-ken) is dominated by Biwa-ko (びわ湖), Japan’s largest lake.

Long an inspiration for poets, the lake was developed in the 20th century as

a resort destination; concrete hotel blocks and tourist cruises now

overshadow its lyrical charms. But Shiga has a few sights of note: temples

that date to the early days of the Japanese empire, a well-preserved medieval

castle and a fantastic (if remote) art museum. And while it’s very close to

Kyoto, you won’t see Kyoto-level crowds out here.

4 Sleeping

Sights in Shiga can easily be visited as a day trips from Kyoto; however,

given the premium placed on Kyoto accommodation, it makes economic

sense to stay locally if you plan to take in several sights here. Ōtsu has the

most accommodation options. It’s also a good (cheaper!) alternative base for

exploring Kyoto.

8 Getting There & Away

The JR Biwako line connects Kyoto to Ōtsu and Hikone. Some Kyoto Tōzai

subway-line trains from Sanjō Keihan Station continue on the Keihan

Keishin line to Hama-Ōtsu Station in Ōtsu.

WORTH A TRIP

MIHO MUSEUM

Secluded amid hills and valleys near the village of Shigaraki, the knockout Miho Museum (ミ

ホミュージアム; %0748-82-3411; www.miho.or.jp; 300 Tashiro Momodani, Shigaraki-chō;

adult/child/student ¥1100/300/800; h10am-5pm, closed Mon & btwn exhibitions; p) is most

definitely worth a detour. It houses the Koyama family collection of Japanese, Middle Eastern,

Chinese and South Asian art, and beautifully displayed special exhibitions. The facility is at

least as impressive as the collection. The IM Pei–designed main building, reached from the

ticket centre via a footpath and a long pedestrian tunnel opening onto a gorge, feels like a secret

hideout in a futuristic farmhouse.

The museum’s construction was quite an engineering feat: the top of the mountain was

removed, the glass-and-marble building constructed, and the ground replaced as before around

and above it, down to the massive red pine (a video explains it).

Teisan buses depart several times a day from JR Ishiyama Station for the museum (¥820,

approximately 50 minutes). Check the museum calendar and bus times on the website before

setting out. If you’re driving here, note that the road is very curvy and narrow.

Ōtsu 大津

%077 / POP 342,850

At the southern end of Biwa-ko, Ōtsu (大津) is the capital of Shiga

Prefecture and a hub for transit and tourism around the lake. It has a long

history – it was an imperial capital in the 7th century, before Kyoto – and a

few noteworthy sights to show for it, including the impressive temples Mii-

dera and Ishiyama-dera.

1 Sights

Mii-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(三井寺; %077-522-2238; www.shiga-miidera.or.jp; 246 Onjōji-chō; adult/child ¥600/200; h8am-5pm)

Established in 672, over a century before the founding of Kyoto, Mii-dera

gets its name for its three springs (‘mi’ means ‘three’ and ‘i’ means

‘spring’). The highlight is the Hondō (main hall), last rebuilt in 1599, a

National Treasure with a rare hiwatabuki (thatched cedar-bark) roof. Behind

the main altar is a collection of Buddhist statues, the oldest of which date to

the Heian era (794–1185). Adjacent to the main hall is a big temple bell you

can ring (¥300).

There are many sub-temples, including one to Kannon (Buddhist goddess

of mercy), around the forested grounds. Stop for some sweets and tea at

Chikara Mochi (力餅; Mii-dera; mochi & tea ¥300; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue).

The temple is a seven-minute walk from Mii-dera Station on the Keihan

Ishiyama-Sakamoto line; you can also walk there in 15 minutes from Keihan

Hama-Ōtsu Station and in 30 minutes from JR Ōtsu Station.

Ishiyama-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(石山寺; www.ishiyamadera.or.jp; 1-1-1 Ishiyama-dera; adult/child ¥600/200; h8am-4.30pm) This Shingon-sect temple, founded in the 8th century, has a lot going for it,

including Japan’s oldest pagoda (the Tahōtō, built in 1194) and an

impressive location atop a stone outcrop, but it’s most famous for hosting

one of the world’s earliest artists-in-residence: according to lore it was

during a stay here that Murasaki Shikibu first dreamt up The Tale of Genji, in

1004.

There are also lovely walks through the grounds, partly forested and partly

manicured, and views of Biwa-ko from the pavilion Tsukimi-tei. The temple

is a 10-minute walk from Keihan Ishiyama-dera Station (continue along the

road in the direction that the train was travelling).

z Festivals & Events

Biwa-ko Dai-Hanabi Taikai

FIREWORKS

(びわ湖大花火大会; www.biwako-visitors.jp/hanabi; hearly Aug)

This display of 10,000 fireworks over Biwa-ko is a major summer event,

drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors. You can get good views from the

waterfront near Keihan Hama-Ōtsu Station, but you’ll have to get there early

in the day to secure a spot. Expect trains to/from Kyoto to be packed for

hours before and afterward.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a few business hotels, restaurants and convenience stores near JR

Ōtsu Station and Keihan Hama-Ōtsu Station.

Calendar Hotel

CAPSULE HOTEL

¥

(%077-526-9080; www.the-calendar.jp; Viera Ōtsu, 1-3 Kasuga-chō; capsules from ¥3300; naiW) This recently opened, surprisingly stylish capsule hotel is attached to JR

Ōtsu Station; it’s a good base for exploring the sights in Shiga Prefecture and

also a cheap alternative to staying in Kyoto. There’s a cafe and bar below

and a roof terrace (open in summer).

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (%077-522-3830; www.otsu-guide.jp; h9am-6pm; W)

Outside the north exit of JR Ōtsu Station, with brochures, rental bicycles

(¥250/1800 per hour/day) and English-speaking staff.

8 Getting There & Away

From Kyoto, take the JR Biwako line from JR Kyoto Station to JR Ōtsu

Station (¥200, 10 minutes), or travel on the Kyoto Tōzai subway line (which

connects to the Keihan Keishin line) to Hama-Ōtsu Station (¥430, 25

minutes) from Sanjō Keihan Station. The JR Biwako line also goes to

Ishiyama Station with kaisoku (rapid) or futsū (local) trains only (¥240, 13

minutes).

8 Getting Around

At Hama-Ōtsu Station connect to the Keihan Ishiyama-Sakamoto line, which

runs along the western shore of Biwa-ko, stopping at Mii-dera Station (¥170,

one minute) and Ishiyama-dera Station (¥240, 17 minutes).

Hikone 彦根

%0749 / POP 113,100

On the eastern shore of Biwa-ko, Hikone (彦根) is best known for its castle,

Hikone-jō – one of only a few castles in Japan with their original keep. It’s

surrounded by moats and more than 1200 cherry trees (which makes it a

popular spot for springtime cherryblossom viewing).

1 Sights

o Hikone-jō

CASTLE

(彦根城; 1-1 Konki-chō; adult/child ¥800/200; h8.30am-5pm)

Completed in 1622, this diminutive castle of the Ii family of daimyō (domain

lords) is rightly considered a National Treasure; much of it remains in its

original state. Two unusual features are the teppōzama and yazama, outlets

for shooting guns and arrows, designed to be invisible from the outside until

they’re popped out for use. Upper storeys have great views across Biwa-ko.

The castle is a 10-minute walk up the street from the station (take a left

before the shrine, then a quick right, or walk through the shrine grounds).

From the castle grounds you can continue directly to the garden Genkyū-

en (玄宮園; ¥200, with Hikone-jō free; h8.30am-5pm). The path is tricky to find; look

for signs in Japanese or ask for directions.

5 Eating

The best collection of restaurants near the castle can be found on Yumekyō-

bashi Castle Rd (夢京橋キャッスルロード), across the moat from the

castle’s Ōte-mon (front gate).

Monzen-ya

SOBA

¥

(もんぜんや; %0749-24-2297; 1-6-26 Hon-machi; soba ¥840-1400; h11am-7pm Wed-Mon)

This soba restaurant is the top pick along Yumekyō-bashi Castle Rd. Try the

nishinsoba (soba with herring), a local speciality. From the castle end of the

street it’s about 100m along on the left – look for the white door curtains.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (%0749-22-2954; h9am-5pm) On the ground floor

outside Hikone Station’s west exit; ask for the English-language town map.

8 Getting There & Away

The JR Biwako line runs fast shinkaisoku trains five times a day to Hikone

from Kyoto (¥1140, 50 minutes) via Ōtsu (¥970, 40 minutes); local trains

run more frequently. If you have a JR Pass or are in a hurry, you can take the

shinkansen to Maibara (¥2120, 20 minutes from Kyoto) and then backtrack

on the JR Biwako line to Hikone (¥190, five minutes).

NORTHERN KANSAI

The northern reaches of Kansai are dramatically different from the densely

populated urban areas to the south. Quiet hamlets like Miyama are found in

the mountains north of Kyoto, and beyond lies a spectacular coastline with

sandy beaches, rugged headlands and rocky islets (all part of the San-in

Kaigan Geopark). Though the region is largely rural, there are some popular

holiday destinations here, such as the hot-spring resort town of Kinosaki

Onsen. Off-the-beatentrack spots include the Tango Peninsula.

4 Sleeping

Both Kinosaki Onsen and Kibune have excellent ryokan if you’re looking to

treat yourself. In the village of Miyama you can stay in a refurbished

farmhouse. Beyond these highlights, accommodation is more limited in

northern Kansai than elsewhere in the region. Major transport hubs have

business hotels, and there are a few ryokan, guesthouses and hostels strung

along the coast.

5 Eating

Kansai’s northern coast, on the Sea of Japan, is famous for its seafood and

especially for its zuwaigani (snow crab). Crab season runs from 6 November

to 20 March, during which destinations like Kinosaki Onsen are very

popular. In the mountains, specialities include foraged mushrooms, river fish

and wild game. Restaurants can be hard to come by outside the resort towns;

it’s best to book meals at your accommodation.

8 Getting There & Around

Northern Kansai is largely accessible by public transport. Key train lines

from urban Kansai include the JR Fukuchiyama line, which connects Osaka

and Fukuchiyama, a major hub in northern Kyoto Prefecture, and the JR

Sagano line, which runs from Kyoto via Hiyoshi (for buses to Miyama) to

Fukuchiyama. In Fukuchiyama you can transfer to the JR San-in line for

Kinosaki Onsen and Takeno or the private Kyoto Tango Railway for

Amanohashidate.

Destinations closer to Kyoto, such as Ōhara, Kurama and Kibune, can be

reached by Kyoto city public transport.

For the Tango Peninsula and other parts of Kansai’s northern coast a rental

car is recommended. Pick up one in Fukuchiyama or any other major city on

the JR San-in line, such as Maizuru or Toyooka. A car is also ideal for

exploring parts of rural Kyoto Prefecture, like Miyama.

Ōhara 大原

%075 / POP 2500

Since ancient times Ōhara (大原), a quiet farming town about 15km north of

Kyoto, has been regarded as a holy site by followers of the Jōdo (Pure Land)

school of Buddhism. The region provides a charming glimpse of rural Japan,

along with the picturesque Sanzen-in, Jakkō-in and several other fine

temples, and is perfect for strolling. It’s about a one-hour bus ride from

Downtown Kyoto and makes for a pleasant day trip from the city. It’s most

popular in autumn, when the maple leaves change colour and the mountain

views are spectacular.

Avoid Ōhara on busy autumn-foliage weekends in November. There’s

only one main road up there from Kyoto and you’ll spend too much time

sitting in traffic (and the temples will be crowded when you get there).

1 Sights

o Sanzen-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(三千院; 540 Raikōin-chō, Ōhara, Sakyō-ku; adult/child ¥700/150-400; h8.30am-5.30pm Mar-

Nov, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto bus 17 or 18 from Kyoto Station to Ōhara)

Famed for its autumn foliage, hydrangea garden and stunning Buddha

statues, this temple is deservedly popular with foreign and domestic tourists

alike. The temple’s garden, Yūsei-en, is one of the most photographed sights

in Japan, and rightly so.

Take some time to sit on the steps of the Shin-den hall and admire the

beauty of the Yūsei-en. Then head off to see Ōjō-gokuraku-in (Temple of

Rebirth in Paradise), the hall in which stands the impressive Amitabha

trinity, a large Amida image flanked by attendants Kannon (goddess of

mercy) and Seishi (god of wisdom). After this, walk up to the garden at the

back of the temple where, in late spring and summer, you can wander among

hectares of blooming hydrangeas.

Sanzen-in was founded in 784 by the priest Saichō and belongs to the

Tendai school. Saichō, considered one of the great patriarchs of Buddhism in

Japan, also founded Enryaku-ji.

If you’re keen for a short hike after leaving the temple, continue up the

hill to see the rather oddly named Soundless Waterfall (Oto-nashi-no-taki;

音無の滝). Though, in fact, it sounds like any other waterfall, its resonance

is believed to have inspired Shōmyō Buddhist chanting.

The approach to Sanzen-in is opposite the bus stop; there is no English

sign but you can usually just follow the Japanese tourists. The temple is

located about 600m up this walk on your left as you crest the hill.

Jakkō-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(寂光院; 676 Kusao-chō, Ōhara, Sakyō-ku; adult/child ¥600/100-350; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to

4.30pm Dec-Feb; gKyoto bus 17 or 18 from Kyoto Station to Ōhara)

Jakkō-in is a small temple on the opposite side of Ōhara from Sanzen-in. It’s

reached by a pleasant 15-minute walk from the bus station through an ‘old

Japan’ village. Walk from the bus stop to the traffic lights on the main road,

take the small road immediately to the left. Follow it over the bridge and

across a road, then continue until you reach a T-intersection. Head left and

continue around to the right a few minutes up the hill.

The history of the temple is exceedingly tragic. The actual founding date

of the temple is subject to some debate (it’s thought to be somewhere

between the 6th and 11th centuries), but it acquired fame as the temple that

harboured Kenrei Mon-in, a lady of the Taira clan. In 1185 the Taira were

soundly defeated in a sea battle against the Minamoto clan at Dan-no-ura.

With the entire Taira clan slaughtered or drowned, Kenrei Mon-in threw

herself into the waves with her son Antoku, the infant emperor; she was

fished out – the only member of the clan to survive.

Kenrei Mon-in was returned to Kyoto, where she became a nun and lived

in a bare hut until it collapsed during an earthquake. She was then accepted

into Jakkō-in and stayed there, immersed in prayer and sorrowful memories,

until her death 27 years later. Her tomb is located high on the hill behind the

temple.

The main building of this temple burned down in May 2000 and the newly

reconstructed main hall lacks some of the charm of the original.

Nonetheless, it is a nice spot.

Jakkō-in is also known for its autumnfoliage displays in November.

Shōrin-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(勝林院; %075-744-2537; 187 Shōrinin-chō, Ōhara, Sakyō-ku; adult/child ¥300/200; h9am-

4.30pm; gKyoto bus 17 or 18 from Kyoto Station to Ōhara)

This temple near Sanzen-in is worth a look, even if only through its

admission gate, to admire the thatched roof of the main hall. It’s a good

option if you’re trying to avoid crowds.

Hōsen-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(宝泉院; %075-744-2409; 187 Shōrinin-chō, Ōhara, Sakyō-ku; adult ¥800, child ¥600-700; h9am-

5pm; gKyoto bus 17 or 18 from Kyoto Station to Ōhara)

A quiet option, this temple is just down the path west of the entry gate to

Shōrin-in. The main tatami room offers a view of a bamboo garden and the

surrounding mountains, framed like a painting by the beams and posts of the

building. There is also a fantastic 700-year-old pine tree in the garden. The

blood-stained Chi Tenjō ceiling boards came from Fushimi-jō castle.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

BUJŌ-JI

Founded in the 12th century by Emperor Toba, the main hall of Bujō-ji (峰定寺; %075-746-

0036; Hanase Harachi-chō, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto; ¥500, children under 12yr not permitted; h9am-

3.30pm, closed rainy/snowy days & Dec-Mar; p) has been repaired over the years it stands

pretty much the same as it always has: a simple wooden structure with a terrace overlooking

Kyoto’s northern mountains. The view is simply awesome; catch it on the right day – when the

skies are clear and there’s not another soul around – and you can have the kind of meditative

experience that’s so elusive at more famous temples.

It’s a Shugendō (mountain asceticism) temple, reached via a 430-step climb. There’s a formal

entry procedure, where you surrender your personal items in exchange for a wooden staff and a

special pilgrim’s bag (you can keep bottled water and your wallet, to make an offering at the

temple). Just before the hall, there’s a bell you can ring.

Bujō-ji is most easily accessed by car, but you can take bus 32 from Demachiyanagi Station

in Kyoto to the Daihizan-guchi bus stop (¥930, 95 minutes, three daily). At the bus stop a

narrow road runs 2km to the temple (it’s signposted in Japanese).

5 Eating

There are quite a few eating options on the walk up to Sanzen-in and close to

the entrance. Many use local mountain vegetables and pickles in their dishes.

Seryō-Jaya

SHOKUDO

¥

(芹生茶屋; %075-744-2301; 24 Shorinin-chō, Ōhara, Sakyō-ku; lunch sets from ¥1000; h11am-

5pm; gKyoto bus 17 or 18 from Kyoto Station to Ōhara)

Seryō-Jaya serves tasty soba and other fare incorporating produce from the

area, such as mountain-harvested mushrooms and pickled plums. There is

outdoor seating in the warmer months. It’s the first restaurant at the top of

the stairs before the entrance to Sanzen-in. Look for the English menu and

food models in the window.

8 Getting There & Away

From Kyoto Station, Kyoto bus 17 or 18 runs to Ōhara bus stop. The ride

takes about an hour and costs ¥550. From Keihan line’s Sanjō Station, take

Kyoto bus 16 or 17 (¥470, 45 minutes). Be careful to board a tan-coloured

Kyoto bus, not a green Kyoto City bus of the same number. Note that the

one-day bus pass can’t be used for this trip as it’s outside the zone.

Kurama & Kibune 鞍馬,貴船

Roughly 30 minutes north of Kyoto, Kurama (鞍馬) and Kibune (貴船) are

a pair of tranquil valleys that have long been favoured as places to escape the

city. Kurama’s main attractions are its mountain temple and onsen. Kibune, a

charming little hamlet just over the ridge, is a cluster of ryokan overlooking

a mountain river. Kibune is best visited in summer, when the ryokan serve

dinner on platforms built over the waters of Kibune-gawa.

The two valleys lend themselves to being ex plored together. In winter,

start from Kibune, walk 30 minutes over the ridge, visit Kurama-dera, then

soak in the onsen. In summer the reverse route is better: start from Kurama,

walk up to the temple, then down the other side to Kibune to enjoy a meal

above the cool river.

If you’re in Kyoto on the night of 22 October, don’t miss the Kurama-no-

hi Matsuri fire festival.

Kurama & Kibune

1 Top Sights

1 Kurama-dera

C2

1 Sights

2 Okuno-in Maō-den

B1

3 Ōsugi-gongen

B2

4 Sōjō-ga-dani Fudō-dō

B2

5 Yuki-jinja

C3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 Kurama Onsen

D2

4 Sleeping

7 Ryokan Ugenta

A1

5 Eating

8 Aburaya-Shokudō

C3

9 Hirobun

A1

10 Hiroya

A1

11 Kibune Club

A1

12 Yōshūji

C3

1 Sights

o Kurama-dera

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 鞍馬寺; 1074 Kurama Honmachi, Sakyō-ku; ¥300; h9am-4.30pm; dEizan line from

Demachiyanagi to Kurama)

Located high on a thickly wooded mountain, Kurama-dera is one of the few

temples in modern Japan that manages to retain an air of real spirituality.

This magical place gains much of its power from its brilliant natural setting.

The entrance to the temple is just up the hill from Kurama Station. A cable

car runs to/from the top (¥200 each way), or you can hike up in about 30

minutes (follow the path past the tram station).

The temple also has a fascinating history: in 770 the monk Gantei left

Nara’s Toshōdai-ji in search of a wilderness sanctuary in which to meditate.

Wandering in the hills north of Kyoto, he came across a white horse that led

him to the valley known today as Kurama. After seeing a vision of the deity

Bishamon-ten, guardian of the northern quarter of the Buddhist heaven,

Gantei established Kurama-dera just below the peak of Kurama-yama.

Originally belonging to the Tendai school of Buddhism, Kurama has been

independent since 1949, describing its own brand of Buddhism as Kurama-

kyō.

It’s worth walking up the trail from the main entrance (if it’s not too hot),

since it winds through a forest of towering old-growth cryptomeria trees,

passing by Yuki-jinja ( MAP ), a small Shintō shrine, on the way. Near the

peak, there is a courtyard dominated by the Honden (Main Hall); behind this

a trail leads off to the mountain’s peak.

At the top, you can take a brief detour across the ridge to Ōsugi-gongen (

MAP ), a quiet shrine in a grove of trees. Those who want to continue to

Kibune can take the trail down the other side. It’s a 1.2km, 30-minute hike

from the Honden to the valley floor of Kibune. On the way down are two

mountain shrines, Sōjō-ga-dani Fudō-dō ( MAP ) and Okuno-in Maō-den (

MAP ), which make pleasant rest stops.

2 Activities

Kurama Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 鞍馬温泉; %075-741-2131; www.kurama-onsen.co.jp; 520 Kurama Honmachi, Sakyō-ku;

adult/child outdoor bath only ¥1000/700, outdoor & indoor bath ¥2500/1600; h10am-9pm, outdoor

bath to 8pm Dec-Mar; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kurama)

One of the few onsen within easy reach of Kyoto, Kurama Onsen is a great

place to relax after a hike. The outdoor bath has fine views of Kurama-yama,

while the indoor bath area includes some relaxation areas in addition to the

tubs.

To get to Kurama Onsen, walk straight out of Kurama Station and

continue up the main street, passing the entrance to Kurama-dera on your

left. The onsen is about 10 minutes’ walk on the right. There’s also a free

shuttle bus between the station and the onsen, which meets incoming trains.

4 Sleeping & Eating

If you plan on spending the night in the area, Kibune is your best bet. It has a

few lovely ryokan sitting opposite the river.

Ryokan Ugenta

RYOKAN

$$$

( MAP ; 旅館右源太; %075-741-2146; www.ugenta.co.jp; 76 Kibune-chō, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; r

per person incl meals from ¥45,954; i; dEizan line to Kibune-guchi)

The superb Ugenta is a stylish inn located in the village of Kibune, about 30

minutes north of Kyoto by taxi or train. There are only two rooms here, one

Japanese-style and one Western-style. Both have private cypress-wood

outdoor bathtubs. The perfect place for a secluded getaway or honeymoon, it

offers a free shuttle bus to and from the station.

5 Eating

Most of the restaurants in Kurama and Kibune are clustered on the main

strip in each town, and easy to spot.

o Yōshūji

VEGETARIAN

¥

( MAP ; 雍州路; %075-741-2848; 1074 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; meals from ¥1080; h10am-

6pm, closed Tue; v; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kurama)

Yōshūji serves superb shōjin-ryōri in a delightful old Japanese farmhouse

with an irori (open hearth). The house special, a sumptuous selection of

vegetarian dishes served in red lacquered bowls, is called kurama-yama

shōjin zen (¥2700). Or if you just feel like a quick bite, try the uzu-soba

(soba topped with mountain vegetables; ¥1080).

You’ll find it halfway up the steps leading to the main gate of Kurama-

dera; look for the orange lanterns out the front.

Aburaya-Shokudō

SHOKUDO

¥

( MAP ; 鞍馬 油屋食堂; %075-741-2009; 252 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; udon & soba from

¥650; h9am-4.30pm, closed irregularly; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kurama)

Just down the steps from the main gate of Kurama-dera and on the street

corner, this classic old-style shokudō is a reminder of Japan before it got

rich. Limited English is spoken but there’s an English menu and the service

is very friendly. It offers soba, udon and donburi (dishes served over rice)

bowls at good prices.

Kibune Club

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; 貴船倶楽部; %075-741-3039; 76 Kibune-chō, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; coffee from ¥500;

h11am-5pm, to 6pm Sat & Sun; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kibune-guchi)

The exposed wooden beams and open, airy feel of this rustic cafe make it a

great spot to stop for a cuppa and cake while exploring Kibune. In winter it

sometimes cranks up the wood stove, which makes the place rather cosy.

Cash only.

Hirobun

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; ひろ文; %075-741-2147; 87 Kibune-chō, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; noodles from ¥1300, kaiseki

courses from ¥8600; h11am-9pm; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kibune-guchi)

This is a good place to sample kawadoko ‘above-river’ dining on platforms.

A friendly crew of ladies run the show and the food is quite good; they are

known for their Nagashi somen noodles in summer (11am to 4pm), which

are served via flowing cold water down sliced bamboo pipes – imagine a

water slide for noodles.

Look for the black-and-white sign and the lantern. Book ahead for dinner.

Note: it usually doesn’t accept solo diners for the kaiseki courses.

Hiroya

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP ; ひろや; %075-741-2401; www.kibune-hiroya.com/multi/index.html; 56 Kibune-chō,

Kurama, Sakyō-ku; kaiseki from ¥9500; h11am-7.30pm May-Sep; dEizan line from Demachiyanagi

to Kibune-guchi)

One of the oldest restaurants offering kawadoko dining in Kibune, Hiroya is

a fine choice for eating riverside in summer. It’s well known for the

speciality ayu ( grilled sweet fish). Book ahead.

8 Getting There & Away

Take the Eizan line from Kyoto’s Demachiyanagi Station. For Kibune, get

off at the second-last stop, Kibune-guchi, take a right out of the station and

walk about 20 minutes up the hill or jump on the shuttle bus. For Kurama,

go to the last stop, Kurama, and walk straight out of the station. To reach

both destinations by train from Kyoto costs ¥420/210 per adult/child and

takes about 30 minutes.

8 Getting Around

Most people move between Kurama and Kibune by doing the hike over the

Kurama-yama ridge between the two valleys. If you’re not up for hiking,

you can take the Eizan line between the two stations (two minutes, ¥210).

DON’T MISS

RIVER DINING IN KIBUNE

Visitors to Kibune from June to September should not miss the chance to dine at one of the

picturesque restaurants beside the Kibune-gawa. Known as kawadoko, meals are served on

platforms suspended over the river as cool water flows underneath. Most of the restaurants offer

a lunch special. For a kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) spread, have a Japanese speaker call to

reserve it in advance. Note that most restaurants don’t accept solo diners, so either go with a

friend or try your luck at lunchtime.

Miyama 美山

%0771 / POP 4000

Miyama (美山) is a collection of rural hamlets in the mountainous heartland

of Kyoto Prefecture. The big sight here is Kayabuki-no-sato, a collection of

farmhouses with traditional thatched roofs. Beyond that, Miyama’s appeal

lies in its slow pace, natural scenery and locally sourced food. You can see it

in an afternoon, but to really experience it, stay for a night or two, rent a

bicycle (or just walk) and explore the country lanes, dotted with small

temples and shrines.

1 Sights

Kayabuki-no-sato

VILLAGE

(かやぶきの里; %0771-77-0660; www.kayabukinosato.com; Kita; hshops & attractions 9am-5pm; p) F

Miyama’s star attraction is this hamlet, home to some 50 farmhouses with

traditional kayabuki-yane (thatched roofs) in the local Kyoto Kitayama style

(a hipped roof with a peaked gable on top). Many are still homes; others are

now inns, cafes and shops. To see inside one that hasn’t been modernised,

and to get a sense of life in pre-modern Miyama, visit the Miyama Folk

Museum (admission ¥300).

Kayabuki Art Museum & Folk Museum

MUSEUM

(美山かやぶき美術館・郷土資料館; %0771-75-1777; http://miyama-kayabuki.org; 21

Shimahōnoki; ¥500; h10am-4.30pm, closed Mon & Dec-Mar; p)

There are two historic kayabukiyane (thatched-roof) farmhouses here: one

that displays artefacts from traditional life in Miyama and another that serves

as a gallery for contemporary craftwork.

4 Sleeping

There are several ryokan and minshuku, an excellent youth hostel, and even

whole houses you can rent out, scattered around Miyama. Accommodation

can easily be booked online through Miyama’s tourism homepage

(https://kyotomiyama.jp/en).

Miyama Heimat Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(美山ハイマートユースホステル; %0771-75-0997; http://miyama-heimat.com; 57

Obuchinakasai; dm members/nonmembers from ¥3800/4300, s/d from ¥5725/10,000; pnaW)

This hostel is in a modernised kayabukiya, with both Japanese- and Western-

style bedding. It’s out by its lonesome in the far west of the village – ideal if

you have a car or a bicycle (or just want to take local walks or relax on the

porch swing). The friendly owners speak some English.

The food (breakfast ¥700, dinner ¥1240 to ¥4300), made with local

ingredients, is excellent. If you’re keen, the proprietor will run lunchtime

cooking lessons for ¥1500 (lunch included!).

The nearest train station is Wachi (on the JR San’in line), from where

you’ll have to catch a local bus headed for Izumi and get off at Ikuseien-mae

bus stop (¥600, 20 minutes). There are only a few buses daily; when you

book, the hostel will help you work out the schedule.

Matabe

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(またべ; %0771-77-0258; https://kyotomiyama.jp/stay/matabe; Kita; r per person incl 2 meals &

without bathroom from ¥8700, solo travellers ¥9200; pnas)

In one of the thatched-roof homes within Kayabuki-no-sato, this three-room

minshuku is traditional on the outside yet clean and modern on the inside,

with Japanese-style rooms.

Dinners feature local free-range chicken. On Wednesday, Saturday and

Sunday, Matabe also serves a set lunch with udon (¥1000) or grilled fish

(¥1600).

Kigusuriya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(きぐすりや; %0771-76-0015; www.kigusuriya.com; 8-1 Imayasu, Tsurugaoka; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥16,200; paW)

In northern Miyama and surrounded by farmland, this four-room family-run

inn started as a pharmacy on the old road connecting Kyoto with the sea; it

also rents out a nearby renovated farmhouse. The kindly owners serve

delicious meals using local ingredients, have free bicycles for guests to use,

and have made an English-language map of nearby walking paths and sights.

If you don’t have your own car, they will shuttle you to and from Hiyoshi

Station.

5 Eating & Drinking

Local specialities include free-range chicken, wild venison, ayu (sweetfish),

caught in the Yura-gawa, in spring, and botan-nabe (wild-boar hot pot) in

winter. Note that many restaurants are open only for lunch or by

appointment. If you’re staying over, it’s a good idea to book meals at your

accommodation.

Morishige

NOODLES

¥

(もりしげ; %0771-75-1086; 15 Tani-no-shimo, Uchikubo; noodle dishes ¥800-1000, set meals

¥1200-2100; h11am-3pm Wed-Sun; p)

In a 150-year-old thatched-roof farmhouse (and with tatami seating and a

central hearth), Morishige serves soba, on its own or in a set with small

dishes made from locally grown vegetables. Look for it behind the cluster of

shrubs and pines.

o Yururi

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

(ゆるり; %0771-76-0741; http://youluly.umesao.com; 15 Sano-mae, Morisato; lunch/dinner menus

from ¥3240/5400; hclosed Jan & Feb; p)

Miyama’s natural bounty is a big draw, and this restaurant in an elegantly

updated thatched-roof farmhouse serves menus of seasonal local ingredients

(such as mountain vegetables in spring and mushrooms in fall). Reservations

required (at least a day ahead), and only one party is served at dinner. You’ll

need a car to get here.

Saika

CAFE

(采花; %0771-77-0660; https://kyotomiyama.jp/eat/saika; Kita; h11am-5pm)

Inside one of the farmhouses in Kayabuki-no-sato, this cafe serves

handmade local specialities like dango (soft rice-flour balls; ¥520 for a set

with tea), made with millet and mugwort.

8 Information

MONEY

Miyama runs on cash. There are a few post offices with ATMs, but note that

hours are limited (9am to 5.30pm Monday to Friday, to 12.30pm Saturday).

TOURIST INFORMATION

Kyoto Tamba Kōgen Quasi-National Park Visitors Centre (京都丹波高

原国定公園ビジターセンター; %0771-75-9020; https://kyotomiyama.jp/en; 23 Shimo;

h9am-5pm; W) Miyama’s excellent visitor centre can arrange tours and activities

with Englishspeaking guides; book in advance through the website. You can

also rent electric bicycles (¥1000/1500 per four hours/day); numbers are

limited, so reserve ahead online. There’s usually an English-speaking staff

member here, and always maps and pamphlets in English.

8 Getting There & Around

It’s possible to get to Miyama by public transport, but it requires some

planning. From Kyoto Station, take the JR Sagano/San-in line to Hiyoshi

Station (¥760, 50 minutes), then take a local bus for Agake (for the visitor

centre; ¥600, 40 minutes) or Kita (for Kayabuki-no-sato; ¥600, 50 minutes).

Buses run roughly hourly; the schedule is posted on www.miyamanavi.net.

Local buses do connect points around Miyama, but their infrequency can

be frustrating. Having a car expands your options immensely. The fastest

road to Miyama is Rte 162 (about 90 minutes), but there’s a lovely but

longer (two-hour) option (Rtes 38/477) via Kurama and over Hanase-tōge

and Sasari-tōge passes.

Amanohashidate 天橋立

%0772 / POP 17,400 (MIYAZU-SHI)

Amanohashidate (天橋立, Bridge to Heaven) is a sandbar that runs across

Miyazu-wan, on the northern coast of Kyoto Prefecture, at the base of the

Tango Peninsula. Since the beginning of recorded history it’s been

considered to be among Japan’s most beautiful sights. There’s a tourist town

at the southern end, and about 5km to the east is the transport hub and port

city of Miyazu (宮津).

1 Sights

Amanohashidate

WATERFRONT

(天橋立; Miyazu-shi) F

Amanohashidate means ‘bridge to heaven’ and this narrow sandbar covered

in some 5000 pine trees has long inspired poets and painters. It’s also billed

as one of Japan’s ‘top three views’, along with Matsushima and Miyajima,

which means it’s fated to underwhelm – especially with all the tourist

trappings at the entrance. Still, the 3.5km-long stretch running across

Miyazu-wan is lovely, with white-sand beaches for swimming on the eastern

side. It takes about an hour to cross on foot, 15 minutes by bike.

To reach the bridge from the train station, take a right, walk along the

main road for 200m until the first light and then take a sharp left.

Chion-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(知恩院; %0772-22-2553; www.monjudo-chionji.jp; 466 Monju, Miyazu-shi) F

Steps from the southern end of the Amanohashidate footbridge, this busy

temple is home to an Important Cultural Property pagoda from the

Muromachi period (late 1500s). The temple’s o-mikuji (fortunes; ¥300) are

shaped like tiny folding fans, which is terribly photogenic when they’re hung

by the thousands from the branches of daintily pruned pines around the

precincts.

4 Sleeping

There are several hotels and ryokan, many with onsen baths, clustered

around the southern end of Amanohashidate. As this is considered a resort

destination, they tend to be pricey (and especially so for bay views). Cheaper

accommodation can be found in central Miyazu, about 5km from

Amanohashidate.

Amanohashidate Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(天橋立ユースホステル; %0772-27-0121; www.hashidate-yh.jp; 905 Nakano, Miyazu-shi;

dm members/nonmembers ¥2750/3050; pnaiW)

On a hill overlooking the bay, about a 10-minute walk from the northern end

of Amanohashidate, this old but well-kept hostel has both Western- and

Japanese-style dorms with shared bathroom, simple cooking facilities, rental

bicycles (¥100 per hour), a cosy lounge, English-speaking owners and lots of

helpful info. Breakfast/dinner costs ¥620/980.

To reach the hostel from Amanohashidate Station, take a local Tankai bus

(¥400, 20 minutes, hourly) for Ine and get off at Jinja-mae; the last bus

departs at 8.14pm. Follow signs toward Manai-jinja Shintō shrine. The

hostel is just before the main torii.

5 Eating

There are many restaurants between Amanohashidate Station and the

southern entrance to the sand bar; note that many close around dusk. The

northern end has much fewer options. Local specialities include dishes with

asari (clams), such as asari-don (clams on rice) and asari udon (clams in

noodle soup); both cost around ¥1000 and most restaurants have at least

picture menus.

310 Amanohashidate

JAPANESE

¥¥

(%0772-45-1870; 640-7 Benten; set meals ¥1800-2000; h6-10pm, closed irregularly)

This unexpectedly chic new spot does set meals of prettily plated grilled fish

or sashimi, using seafood caught from the fish market in nearby Miyazu,

paired with craft sake. It’s on the road in front of Amanohashidate Station,

with an English sign out the front. Cover charge ¥250.

8 Information

Tourist Information Centre (%0772-22-8030; www.amanohashidate.jp; h9am-6pm; W) Inside Amanohashidate Station, with English-speaking staff. There’s also an

ATM that works with international cards.

8 Getting There & Away

Amanohashidate Station is accessed via the Kyoto Tango Railway (also

known as Tantetsu), which you can pick up at JR Fukuchiyama Station

( tokkyū/futsū ¥1620/770, 40 minutes/one hour). From Kyoto, take the JR

Kinosaki liner to Fukuchiyama (¥2460, 1½ hours), from Osaka the JR

Kōnotori Liner (¥3340, 1¾ hours). There are two direct trains daily to/from

Kyoto via Fukuchiyama (¥3880, two hours), but JR Pass holders will still

have to pay ¥1420/1620 (unreserved/reserved seats) for the non-JR part of

the route.

The Kyoto Tango Railway continues to Toyooka ( tokkyū/futsū,

¥2040/1190, 30 minutes/1½ hours), where you can connect to a JR San-in

line train for Kinosaki Onsen (¥200, 12 minutes).

8 Getting Around

You can cross Amanohashidate on foot, by bicycle or on a motorcycle of

less than 125cc capacity. Bicycles (¥400/1600 per two hours/day) can be

hired at a number of places.

Central Miyazu is about 5km from Amanohashidate Station. Kyoto Tango

Railway connects Amanohashidate Station with Miyazu (¥210, five

minutes).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

TANGO PENINSULA

Tango-hantō (丹後半島) juts into the Sea of Japan on the north coast of Kyoto Prefecture. Its

serrated coast alternates between sandy beaches, gumdrop-shaped islands, bays, inlets and

rocky points. If you’re travelling between Amanohashidate and Kinosaki Onsen by car, it’s a

worthy detour

On the southeastern side of the peninsula (just north of Amanohashidate) is the quiet fishing

village of Ine (伊根; Ine-chō). The village’s signature houses, called funaya, are built right over

the bay Ine-wan, so boats can moor underneath. The best way to see them up close is from the

water.

Locally-run Kameshima-maru (亀島丸; %0772-32-0585; Ine-chō; adult/child ¥1000/free)

does 30-minute motorboat tours. Have your accommodation or the Ine Tourist Information

Centre (伊根町観光案内所; %0772-32-0277; www.ine-kankou.jp/english; 491 Hirata, Ine-chō; h9am-5pm; W) make a reservation (two-person minimum). The boat will pick you up at the most

convenient dock.

For food, head to Aburaya (油屋; %0772-32-0750; 459 Kameshima, Ine-chō; meals from

¥1500; h11am-3pm Thu-Tue; p), a tiny counter restaurant inside the Funaya-no-sato michi-no-

eki (road station). It looks utterly unremarkable, but locals swear that its kaisen-don (raw fish

over rice) never disappoints. It often closes early when it runs out of ingredients. There’s a

picture menu. While you’re here, steal views of the bay from the lookout point.

Buses from Amanohashidate Station will take you as far as Ine (¥400, about 55 minutes,

hourly). After that, you’re on your own. If you have your own wheels, you can follow the

coastal Rte 178 around the peninsula and carry on to Kinosaki Onsen.

Kinosaki Onsen 城崎温泉

%0796 / POP 3500

Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), on the Japan Sea coast, is the Kansai region’s

signature onsen resort. A willow-lined canal runs through the town centre,

and many of the ryokan and restaurants here retain their traditional charm.

Best of all about Kinosaki, however, is its public bathhouse culture; you can

splash out on the full ryokan experience or just hop between baths – both,

ideally. Though most inns have their own onsen baths, overnight guests clip-

clop around the canal to the public ones, in yukata (light cotton kimonos)

and geta (wooden sandals).

The most popular time of year to visit is winter (specifically November to

March), when matsuba-gani (snow crab), a local speciality, is in season; this

is Kinosaki’s high season and many accommodations will be pricier.

Kinosaki Onsen is flat and easily walkable, about 20 leisurely minutes

from end to end. Trains arrive at Kinosaki Onsen Station, in the

southwestern corner of town. From here, Eki-dōri heads north and intersects

with the willow-lined river Ōtani-gawa. Turn left on the streets paralleling

the river, Kitayanagi-dōri and Minamiyanagi-dōri (north and south willow

streets), to reach most onsen, inns and restaurants.

1 Sights

Genbudō

CAVE

(玄武洞)

Genbudō is the largest of the five caves at this site, part of San-in Kaigan

National Park, with other-worldly surfaces of pillar-like ripples formed by

basalt lava 1.6 million years ago.

It’s about 5km south of Kinosaki Onsen, accessibly by car or bike, via a

route the follows the Maruyama-gawa.

Kinosaki Strawcraft Museum

MUSEUM

(城崎麦わら細工伝承館; %0796-32-0515; 376-1 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; ¥300; h10am-

4pm Thu-Tue)

This tiny museum in a former kura (storehouse) displays mugiwara-zaiku

(barley-straw crafts) practised locally since 1716. Straw is dyed and cut into

tiny pieces, then applied to wood to form incredibly intricate, beautiful

patterns. It’s located off the river, a short walk from Ichi-no-yu onsen.

2 Activities

Kinosaki has seven soto-yu (public baths), large and small, simple and

elaborate. If you visit more than one you’ll want to get the yu-meguri pass

(¥1200), which gives you entry to all of them. Most lodgings have their own

uchi-yu (private baths) but offer complementary yu-meguri passes. All the

baths are fed from the same springs, which are naturally alkaline and a little

bit salty. While some public bathhouses in Japan refuse entry to customers

with tattoos, Kinosaki is totally cool with your ink.

o Gosho-no-yu

ONSEN

(御所の湯; 448 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; ¥800; h7am-11pm, closed 1st & 3rd Thu of month)

This is Kinosaki’s most famous bathhouse, with an entrance designed to look

like the Kyoto Imperial Palace; inside it feels more like a countryside onsen,

with exposed cypress beams and high ceilings, and a cascading set of rock-

strewn outdoor baths. Note that it can get quite crowded.

It’s on Yunosato-dōri; keep going past Ichi-no-yu, as the main street

diverges from the canal.

Sato-no-yu

ONSEN

(さとの湯; 290-36 Imazu, Kinosaki-chō; ¥800; h1-9pm Tue-Sun)

Kinosaki’s largest bathhouse has a fantastic variety of baths and saunas,

including a big rooftop rotemburo with waterfalls. The women’s and men’s

baths shift floors daily, so you’ll have to go two days in a row to sample all

the offerings. It’s right outside JR Kinosaki Onsen Station.

Kō-no-yu

ONSEN

(鴻の湯; 610 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; ¥600; h7am-11pm Wed-Mon)

At the far end of town (from the train station), this bathhouse has a

rotemburo in a garden setting.

It’s the waters here that form the setting for the legend of Kinosaki

Onsen’s founding: it’s where an injured kō (oriental white stork) was

discovered 1400 years ago healing its wounds – drawing attention to the

restorative powers of this natural hot spring.

Ichi-no-yu

ONSEN

(一の湯; 415-1 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; ¥600; h7am-11pm Thu-Tue)

Ichi-no-yu’s distinctive architecture – it’s designed to look like a kabuki

theatre – makes it a local landmark; it’s also one of the bigger bathhouses,

with an outdoor ‘cave bath’.

4 Sleeping

Kinosaki is a great spot for your ryokan experience; there are many options,

from fairly budget to splurge. The ryokan association operates a free shuttle

bus, timed to train arrivals, to take you to member inns for check-in.

If you want to truly do Kinosaki on the cheap, consider staying at a

business hotel in Toyooka, the nearest city, two stops before Kinosaki Onsen

on the San-in line (¥200, 20 minutes).

Koyado Enn

RYOKAN

¥¥

(小宿縁; %0796-32-4870; www.koyado.net; 219 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; s/d from ¥8000/9000;

nW)

This fairly new inn, with both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, is well set

up for solo travellers and those who don’t want to be locked into a meal

plan. Rooms have toilets and sinks; shared onsen baths can be used privately.

You can choose instead to take your meals at Irori Dining Mikuni on the

2nd floor, or at Cafe & Bar 3rd, on the ground floor.

Ryokan Yamamotoya

RYOKAN

¥¥

(旅館山本屋; %0796-32-2114; www.kinosaki.com; 643 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; r per person incl

meals from ¥17,800; pnaW)

Right on Yanagi-dōri, conveniently located for Kinosaki’s soto-yu (public

bathhouses), this long-running ryokan (350 years!) is well kept and

welcoming. Rooms have river or mountain views but no private bath (sink

and toilet only). Solo travellers are accepted in spring and autumn only and

must pay a single supplement.

It runs brew-pub Gubigabu next door.

Mikuniya

RYOKAN

¥¥

(三国屋; %0796-32-2414; www.kinosaki3928.com; 221 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; r per person incl meals high/low season from ¥15,120/21,600; aiW)

This long-time traveller favourite is a reliable choice and has friendly,

English-speaking staff. Rooms have toilet and sink, and the communal onsen

bath can be used privately. Dinner is served in the rooms; if you opt for the

Western-style breakfast, it’s served at Cafe & Bar 3rd, next door.

Heading into town from the station, it’s about 150m along on the right;

look for the rickshaw.

Tsuruya

RYOKAN

¥¥

(つるや; %0796-32-2924; 606 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; r per person with/without meals from

¥12,550/6830; paW)

This is a great budget choice, with owners who love welcoming foreign

guests. Rooms are simple (with shared facilities) but well cared for, and the

onsen bath can be used privately. Book directly (English OK). There’s a

¥1000 mark-up for solo travellers.

It’s at the far end of town, a few metres before Kō-no-yu onsen as you

approach from the station.

o Nishimuraya Honkan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(西村屋本館; %reception 0796-32-2211, reservations 0796-32-4895;

www.nishimuraya.ne.jp/honkan; 469 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; r per person incl 2 meals high/low season from ¥42,000/32,000, single travellers from ¥48,000; paW)

Running for seven generations, this is a fantastic ryokan for a splurge. It

excels at everything: beautiful rooms arranged around a central garden;

onsen baths made of cypress and stone; seasonal kaiseki meals using top

local ingredients; and fluent-English-speaking concierges. All rooms have

private facilities, and a few have their own rotemburo (outdoor baths).

While the building is not historic like the Honkan (main building), the

ryokan’s annexe, the Hiratakan, adheres to the same principles of traditional

Japanese design and some guests may appreciate its quieter location, off the

main road.

Nishimuraya Hotel Shōgetsu-tei

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(西村屋ホテル紹月庭; %0796-32-3535; www.nishimuraya.ne.jp/shogetsu; 1016-2 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥28,000, single travellers from ¥38,000; paW)

A bit far from town and in a rather ordinary building, this modern property is

managed by the same family that runs Nishimuraya Honkan and offers a

more entry-level luxury experience. The Japanese-style rooms are nicely

done up (skip the Western-style ones), with en-suite facilities. Rather large,

this is a good bet when other places are full.

There’s an option to rent one of the private rotemburo (¥8640 for up to

four guests, 70 minutes) that come with large tubs, rock saunas, gorgeous

garden views and a complimentary bottle of sparkling wine.

5 Eating & Drinking

From November to March Kinosaki’s ryokan and restaurants offer decadent

crab feasts; prices are highest for fresh crab (some places use frozen). While

many visitors choose to eat breakfast and dinner at their accommodation,

there are enough restaurants staying open for dinner that you can skip the

meal plan without getting stuck.

Thanks to the late hours of many of Kinosaki’s soto-yu (public baths),

there’s a lot more life in this onsen resort than most after dark.

Okeshō

SEAFOOD

¥¥

(おけしょう海中苑; %0796-29-4832; www.okesyo.com; 132 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; meals

from ¥1080; h11am-6.45pm)

Located above a fish market, this casual restaurant is a popular local spot for

kaisen-don (raw seafood on rice; ¥1400 to ¥1950), but there are also tempura

and grilled items on the menu. Between November and March you can

splash out on crab feasts (from ¥10,000 per person). It’s on a corner, with a

ship’s hull over the entrance.

You can also pick out your own seafood at the market and have the

kitchen prepare it for you (at a roughly 40% mark-up from market rates).

Masuya

NOODLES

¥¥

(ますや; %0796-32-2642; 654 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; meals ¥900-1550; h11am-9.30pm)

Soba and udon are handmade here using local ingredients; try the house

speciality, kamozaru (chilled soba served on a bamboo mat with hot broth

and duck meat on the side). It’s a small, cosy place that paints a picture of an

older Kinosaki.

Orizuru

SUSHI

¥¥

(をり鶴; %0796-32-2203; www.ori-zuru.com; 396 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; lunch sets ¥1000-3200, sushi sets ¥1900-5300; h11am-2pm & 5-9.30pm Wed-Mon)

This is an elegant sushi counter, frequented by locals, offering reasonably

priced set meals. In winter you can sample local crab sourced from

Tsuiyama harbour, just 10 minutes away, in a variety of ways, from kani-

nigiri (crab sushi; ¥2200) to a full-on crab feast (from ¥20,000 per person).

It’s between Ichi-no-yu and Gosho-no-yu onsen, on the opposite side of

the street, with a small, illuminated white sign with the kanji for sushi (鮨).

Irori Dining Mikuni

STEAK

¥¥¥

(いろりダイニング三國; %0796-32-4870; 2nd fl, 219 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; meal sets

¥1800-4600, steak sets ¥4800-31,200; h11am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Thu-Tue)

Mikuni serves local speciality Tajima-gyū (a high-end brand of Japanese

beef). Different cuts are served different ways, and not just as steaks: sirloin,

for example, is seared and sliced thin, served over rice (¥4600); you can also

get a good curry made with the same premium beef for just ¥1800.

Reserve a day in advance for splurgeworthy yakiniku (grilled meat;

¥9180), shabu-shabu (¥11,340) and sukiyaki sets (thin slices of beef cooked

in sake, soy and vinegar broth, and dipped in raw egg; ¥11,340).

Gubigabu

PUB FOOD

¥¥

(グビガブ; %0796-32-4545; www.gubigabu.com; 646 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; mains ¥800-2800;

h11.30am-10pm, closed Thu & 3rd Wed of month)

This craft-beer pub near the town centre has four locally brewed house beers

on tap and a diverse menu that includes dishes with Tajima beef, such as

curry and gyū-don (simmered beef on rice).

There’s also a counter at the ryokan next door where you can get

takeaway paper cups of beer.

Cafe & Bar 3rd

CAFE, BAR

(219 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; coffee from ¥450, beer from ¥600; hcafe 8am-7pm daily, bar 8pm-

midnight Thu-Tue; W)

With convenient early hours and open generously late, this simple spot

serves pour-over coffee, with beans from cult-fave Tokyo roaster Onibus,

and local Kinosaki beer. Breakfast (¥950), served until 10am, is toast and

eggs or granola and yoghurt, plus a drink.

If you’re staying at Koyado Enn or Mikuniya and sign up for the Western-

style breakfast, it will be served here.

8 Information

There are two information centres opposite the station. Pick up a local map

at either, or at the train station.

Ryokan Information Centre (お宿案内所; %0796-32-4141; 78 Yushima, Kinosaki-

chō; h9am-6pm) Accommodation booking, luggage storage (¥500 per item) or

forwarding to your accommodation (¥100 per item), and bicycle rentals

(¥400/800 per two hours/day; return by 5pm). Some English spoken.

Sozoro (そぞろ; %0796-32-0013; www.kinosaki-info.com; 96 Yushima, Kinosaki-chō; h9am-6pm; W) Kinosaki’s main tourist-information centre has English-speaking staff

and bicycle rentals (¥500/1000 per two hours/day; return by 5pm). It also

runs various sightseeing tours and activities; inquiries should be made in

advance through the website.

8 Getting There & Away

Kinosaki is on the JR San-in line. There are three daily Kinosaki Liner

limited-express trains from Kyoto (¥4320, 2½ hours); from Osaka or Shin-

Osaka Station take the Kōnotori Liner (¥5080, three hours, seven daily).

From Kyoto you can also take a limited express to Fukuchiyama and pick up

one of the more frequent trains from Osaka.

From Kinosaki you can continue west along the San-in coast to Tottori

(¥1320, two hours).

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Hiroshima

Miyajima

Saijō

Iwakuni

Onomichi & the Shimanami Kaidō

Onomichi

Inno-shima

Ikuchi-jima

Ōmi-shima

Okayama & the Inland Sea

Okayama

Naoshima

Teshima

Shōdo-shima

Kurashiki

Kurasaoka Islands

Tomo-no-ura

Tottori, Shimane & the San’in Coast

Tottori

San-in Coast National Park

Daisen

Sakaiminato

Oki Islands

Matsue

Izumo

Iwami Ginzan

Yamaguchi & Around

Yamaguchi

Tsuwano

Hagi

Shimonoseki

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Why Go?

Travellers to Western Honshū (本州西部) will find a tale of two coastlines.

San-yō (literally ‘sunny side of the mountains’), looking southwards out over

the Inland Sea, boasts the bigger cities, the narrow-laned portside and hillside

towns, ceramic history and the fast train. This coast holds the region’s big

name – indelibly scarred but thriving and warm-hearted Hiroshima.

On the other side of the dividing Chūgoku mountain range, San-in (literally

‘in the shade of the mountains’) gazes northwards across the expanse of the

Sea of Japan. Up here, it’s all about an unhurried pace, onsen (hot spring)

villages that see few foreigners, historic sites, wind-battered coastlines and

great hospitality.

Head inland for hikes along gorges and through caves, or escape the

mainland altogether – you could take a trip to the Inland Sea and its galaxy of

islands, or lose yourself in the remote and rugged Oki Islands (Oki-shotō) in

the Sea of Japan.

When to Go

Mar–May & Sep–Nov Mild and photogenic, spring and autumn get most of

the attention.

Jul–Sep Beach weather draws crowds to the Inland Sea islands and Sea of

Japan coast.

Aug Hiroshima remembers 6 August with services and a river of lanterns.

Best Places to Eat

A Museum Restaurant Issen

A Okonomi-mura

A Takadaya

A Mamakari-tei

A Fujitaya

A Yabure-Kabure

Best Places to Stay

A Hattōji International Villa

A Benesse House

A Hiroshima Inn Aioi

A Hinoyama Youth Hostel

A Iwasō Ryokan

A Ōmi-shima Ikoi-no-Ie

Hiroshima & Western Honshū Highlights

1 Hiroshima Reflecting on a tragic past in this cosmopolitan city.

2 Naoshima Marvelling at the meeting of nature and contemporary art on

this island.

3 Shimanami Kaidō Island-hopping by bicycle via this chain of bridges to

Shikoku.

4 Taikodani-Inari-jinja Walking through the shrine gates in the mountain

town of Tsuwano.

5 Onomichi Following in the footsteps of cats on a temple hunt.

6 Izumo Taisha Seeing where the gods go on holiday at this Shintō shrine.

7 Matsue Strolling around the moated castle and soaking up a gorgeous

sunset.

8 Oki Islands Getting way off the beaten track in these nature- and

culture-rich islands.

9 Iwami Ginzan Exploring the World Heritage–listed silver-mine district.

8 Getting There & Around

There are frequent budget flights from Tokyo to airports near Hiroshima,

Okayama and Matsue. Some international flights connect China and South

Korea with Hiroshima.

The shinkansen (bullet train) from Osaka and Kyoto enters Western Honshū

in the east at Okayama, then zips through other cities on the San-yō coast to

Hiroshima and Shimonoseki. This is the most atmospheric and popular option,

especially for Japan Rail Pass holders.

On the San-in coast, trains operate all the way from Tottori to Hagi, hugging

some beautiful rugged coastline on the way, but services are generally

infrequent and it’s hard to avoid the slow ‘local’ services.

If you’re really in a hurry up here (and to get way off the beaten track), it’s

worth hiring a car. There are few train and bus lines servicing inland

destinations: the major rail link between the two coasts runs between Okayama

and Yonago, while a bus between Matsue and Hiroshima offers a second

option, especially while tickets are discounted under a years-long promotion.

HIROSHIMA 広島

%082 / POP 1.2 MILION

To most people, Hiroshima (広島) means just one thing. The city’s name will

forever evoke images of 6 August 1945, when Hiroshima became the target of

the world’s first atomic-bomb attack. Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park is a

constant reminder of that day, and it attracts visitors from all over the world

with its moving message of peace. But this leafy city, with its wide boulevards

and laid-back friendliness, is far from a depressing place. Present-day

Hiroshima is home to an ever-thriving cosmopolitan community, and it’s worth

spending a couple of nights here to experience the city at its vibrant best.

History

On 6 August 1945, the US B-29 bomber Enola Gay released the ‘Little Boy’

atomic bomb over Hiroshima. The 2000°C (3630°F) blast obliterated 90% of

the city and instantly killed 80,000 people. The bomb exploded over the centre

of Hiroshima, which was filled with wooden homes and shops. This created

intense firestorms that raced through the city for three days and destroyed 92%

of the structures, fuelled by broken gas pipes and electrical lines. Toxic black

rain fell 30 minutes after the blast, carrying 200 different types of radioactive

isotopes, contaminating the thirsty wounded who drank it.

Around 350,000 people were present that day. In the following months,

130,000 more died of radiation exposure and other secondary effects, including

intensive burns. Most casualties were civilians, including firefighters and 90%

of the city’s doctors who came to help; 20,000 forced Korean labourers; and

6000 junior-high-school students, who had been working in the city clearing

firebreaks in anticipation of a regular attack.

The Japanese government says there were around 187,000 atomic bomb

survivors still alive in 2015, many living through the mental trauma, cancers,

and other effects of radiation. (No residual radiation remains today.)

Hiroshima

1 Top Sights

1 Atomic Bomb Dome

B2

2 Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

B3

3 Peace Memorial Park

B3

1 Sights

4 Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound

B2

5 Cenotaph

B3

6 Children’s Peace Monument

B2

7 Flame of Peace

B3

8 Hiroshima City Manga Library

F4

9 Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

E4

10 Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims

B3

11 Hiroshima-jō

C1

12 Korean Atomic Bomb Victims Memorial

B2

13 Shukkei-en

D1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

14 Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus

F2

4 Sleeping

15 Candeo

D2

16 Hiroshima Inn Aioi

B2

17 Hotel Active Hiroshima

D3

18 J-Hoppers Hiroshima

A3

19 K’s House Hiroshima

E3

20 Santiago Guesthouse

C3

5 Eating

21 Antonio

B2

22 Bakudanya

C3

23 Hassei

C4

24 Maido Ōkini

D2

25 Okonomi-mura

C3

26 Oyster Conclave Kaki-tei

E3

27 Sushi-tei

D3

28 Tōshō

E4

29 Vegimo

C2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

30 Koba

C3

31 Ninjō Ganko Yatai

D3

32 Organza

A2

3 Entertainment

33 Aki Hiroshima Busho-Tai

C1

34 Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium

G3

1 Sights

Hiroshima’s city centre, Peace Memorial Park, tram terminus and most sights

are accessed from the south exit of the train station. The shinkansen entrance is

on the north exit of the station; this is also where you board the Hiroshima

Sightseeing Loop Bus. An underground passageway links the two sides of the

station.

o Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 広島平和記念資料館; www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp; 1-2 Nakajima-chō, Naka-ku; adult/child ¥200/free; h8.30am-7pm Aug, to 6pm Mar-Jul & Sep-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb;

jGenbaku-dōmu-mae or Chūden-mae)

The main building of Hiroshima’s premier museum houses a collection of

items salvaged from the aftermath of the atomic bomb. The displays are

confronting and personal – ragged clothes, a child’s melted lunchbox, a watch

stopped at 8.15am – and there are some grim photographs. While upsetting, it’s

a must-see in Hiroshima. The east building presents a history of Hiroshima and

of the development and destructive power of nuclear weapons.

At the exit, don’t miss the first-person video accounts and guestbook of

world-leader visitors – including the first visit by a sitting US president, Barack

Obama in 2016, who gifted origami cranes.

o Peace Memorial Park

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平和記念公園; Heiwa-kinen-kōen; jGenbakudōmu-mae) Hugged by rivers on both sides, Peace Memorial Park is a large, leafy space

crisscrossed by walkways and dotted with memorials and tranquil spaces for

reflection. Its central feature is the long tree-lined Pond of Peace leading to the

cenotaph ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 原爆死没者慰霊碑). This curved concrete monument holds the names of all the known victims of the bomb. Also at the

pond is the Flame of Peace ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平和の灯), set to burn on until all the world’s nuclear weapons are destroyed.

Look through the cenotaph down the pond and you’ll see it frames the Flame

of Peace and the Atomic Bomb Dome across the river – the park was planned

so that these features form a straight line, with the Peace Memorial Museum at

its southern end.

Just north of the road through the park is the Children’s Peace Monument (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 原爆の子の像), inspired by Sadako Sasaki, who was two years old at the time of the atomic bomb. When Sadako developed leukaemia

at 11 years of age, she decided to fold 1000 paper cranes. In Japan, the crane is

the symbol of longevity and happiness, and she believed if she achieved that

target she would recover. She died before reaching her goal, but her classmates

folded the rest. A monument was built in 1958. Sadako’s story inspired a

nationwide spate of paper-crane folding that continues to this day. Surrounding

the monument are strings of thousands of colourful paper cranes, sent here by

schoolchildren from around the country and all over the world.

Nearby is the Korean Atomic Bomb Victims Memorial ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 韓国人原爆犠牲者慰霊碑). Many Koreans were shipped over to work as

slave labour during WWII, and Koreans accounted for more than one in 10 of

those killed by the atomic bomb. Just north of this memorial is the Atomic

Bomb Memorial Mound ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – the ashes of thousands of

unclaimed or unidentified victims are interred in a vault below.

There are other monuments and statues throughout the park, and plenty of

benches, including those along the riverside looking across to the Atomic

Bomb Dome; they make this a pleasant area to take a break and take it all in.

o Atomic Bomb Dome

HISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 原爆ドーム, Genbaku Dome; 1-10 Otemachi; h24hr; jGenbaku-dōmu-mae) F

Perhaps the starkest reminder of the destruction visited upon Hiroshima in

WWII is the Atomic Bomb Dome. Built by a Czech architect in 1915, it was

the Industrial Promotion Hall until the bomb exploded almost directly above it.

Everyone inside was killed, but the building was one of very few left standing

near the epicentre. A decision was taken after the war to preserve the shell as a

memorial.

The building has since become a haunting symbol of the city, and was

declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1996. Try to wander past in the

evening when it’s quiet and the propped-up ruins are floodlit.

Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims

MEMORIAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立広島原爆死没者追悼平和祈念館; www.hiro-

tsuitokinenkan.go.jp; 1-6 Nakajima-chō, Naka-ku; h8.30am-7pm Aug, to 6pm Mar-Jul & Sep-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb; jGenbaku-dōmu-mae or Hon-dōri) F

A softly lit internal walkway leads down into this cool, contemplative space,

where the walls show a circular panorama of Hiroshima and the names of its

neighbourhoods at the time of the atomic bomb. The fountain at the centre

represents the moment the bomb was dropped (8.15am), while the water offers

relief to the victims. An adjoining room shows the names and photographs of

those who perished. Before leaving, it’s worth taking time to watch the

evocative testimonies from survivors.

The memorial hall was built by architect Tange Kenzō, who also designed

the nearby Peace Memorial Museum, Cenotaph and Flame of Peace.

Hiroshima-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 広島城, Hiroshima Castle; www.rijo-castle.jp; 21-1 Moto-machi; tower ¥370;

h9am-6pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb; jKamiya-chō)

Also known as Carp Castle (鯉城; Rijō), Hiroshima-jō was originally

constructed in 1589, but much of it was dismantled following the Meiji

Restoration. What remained was totally destroyed by the bomb and rebuilt in

1958. In the north end there’s a small five-level museum with historical items,

but most visitors go for the tower with views over the impressive moat. The

surrounding park is a pleasant (and free) place for a stroll. Enter from the east

or south.

Shukkei-en

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 縮景園; www.shukkeien.jp; 2-11 Kami-nobori-chō, Naka-ku; ¥260; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; jShukkei-en-mae)

Modelled after West Lake in Hangzhou, China, Shukkei-en was built in 1620

for daimyō (domain lord) Asano Nagaakira. The garden’s name means

‘contracted view’, and it attempts to re-create grand vistas in miniature.

Pathways lead through a series of ‘landscapes’ and views around an island-

dotted pond.

Shukkei-en was destroyed by the bomb, though many of the trees and plants

survived to blossom again the following year, and the park and its buildings

have long since been restored to their original splendour.

Hiroshima City Manga Library

LIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 広島市まんが図書館; %082-261-0330;

www.library.city.hiroshima.jp/manga; 1-4 Hijiyama-kōen; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; jHijiyama-shita) An obvious pit stop for manga (Japanese comics) enthusiasts, this library has a

small section of foreign-language manga and a collection of vintage and rare

manga. Grab the Englishlanguage pamphlet and head up to the 2nd floor.

It’s closed on the last day of odd-numbered months.

Mazda Museum

MUSEUM

(マツダミュージアム; %082-252-5050; www.mazda.com/about/museum; hby reservation Mon-

Fri; dMukainada) F

Mazda is popular for the chance to see the impressive 7km assembly line.

English-language tours (90 minutes) are available at 10am weekdays, but it’s

best to check the website or with the tourist office for the current times.

Reservations are required and can be made online or by phone.

The museum is a short walk from JR Mukainada (向洋) Station, two stops

from Hiroshima on the San-yō line.

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 広島市現代美術館, MOCA; www.hiroshimamoca.jp; 1-1 Hijiyama-kōen;

¥300; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; jHijiyama-shita)

Fans of contemporary art should drop into this modern museum in Hijiyama-

kōen, where the exhibits change regularly and may include anything from

large-scale installations to video. Outside is a sculpture garden. Check ahead

before your visit, as there are sometimes special exhibitions (additional fees

may apply).

T Tours

Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus

BUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chugoku-jrbus.co.jp; single/day pass ¥200/400)

The meipurū-pu (loop bus) has two overlapping routes – orange and green –

taking in the main sights and museums of the city, including the Peace

Memorial Park and Atomic Bomb Dome. Both routes begin and end on the

shinkansen entrance (north) side of Hiroshima Station, running from about 9am

to 6pm (the green route runs later during summer).

Passengers can get on and off the bus at any stop. There is a bus about every

15 minutes – both orange and green route buses run every half-hour. Tickets

and day passes can be purchased from the driver. Those with a JR Pass (and JR

West passes covering Hiroshima) can ride for free. On the bus there are

announcements in English, though the background info on the sights is all in

Japanese.

HIROSHIMA READING

A ‘Hiroshima’ (1946) by John Hersey – the article by Pulitzer Prize–winning writer (available on

www.newyorker.com).

A Hiroshima: Three Witnesses (1990); ed Richard H Minear – translation of first-hand accounts of

three authors.

A Black Rain (1965) by Ibuse Masuji – a novel depicting the lives of those who survived.

A Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes (1977) by Eleanor Coerr – aimed at younger readers,

based on the true story of Sasaki Sadako.

z Festivals & Events

Peace Memorial Ceremony

MEMORIAL SERVICE

(広島平和記念式典)

On the anniversary of the atomic bombing, 6 Aug, a memorial service is held

in Peace Memorial Park and thousands of paper lanterns for the souls of the

dead are floated down the Kyūōta-gawa from in front of the Atomic Bomb

Dome.

4 Sleeping

Hiroshima’s accommodation is clustered around the station, near Peace

Memorial Park, and along the main thoroughfares of Aioi-dōri and Heiwa-

Ōdōri. The city is compact enough that, wherever you base yourself, you’re

never more than a short walk or tram ride away from the main sights.

o K’s House Hiroshima

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ケイズハウス広島; %082-568-7244; www.kshouse.jp/hiroshima-e; 1-8-9

Matoba-chō; dm/s/tw from ¥2600/5800/7900; naiW; jMatoba-chō)

K’s House has a great location not far from the station. There are small dorms

and comfortable tatami rooms with shared shower rooms, or you can pay a

little more for a Western room with en suite. The kitchen-lounge is modern and

a good size, there’s a rooftop terrace, and staff are helpful.

The entrance is at the back of the block – turn left off Aioi-dōri to find it.

Santiago Guesthouse

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; サンチャゴゲストハウス広島; %082-545-8477; www.santiago-

guesthouse-hiroshima-jp.book.direct; 4-18 Naka-machi; dm/tw without bathroom from ¥2500/7000, f

from ¥25,000; aiW; jFukuro-machi)

Its carpeted halls make Santiago feel hotel-like, but the sociable kitchenlounge

space promotes swapping travel tips, while being large enough to keep to

yourself if you prefer. Dorms are in capsulelike bunks, and there are ample

shower rooms, though you’ll have to scurry to a different floor if staying in a

private twin. The roof-terrace family room is immense.

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ジェイホッパーズ広島ゲストハウス; %082-233-1360;

https://hiroshima.j-hoppers.com; 5-16 Dobashi-chō; dm/tw without bathroom from ¥2500/5400; naiW; jDobashi)

This clean old favourite near the Peace Memorial Park feels more like

someone’s house than a standard hostel. Private rooms and get tatami

treatment, and the latter have private-feeling capsules. It’s a small but cosy

place with a friendly English-speaking crew and cheap laundry and bike use.

Singles come at the price of a twin.

o Hotel Active Hiroshima

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルアクティブ広島; %082-212-0001; www.hotel-

active.com/hiroshima; 15-3 Nobori-chō; s/d incl breakfast from ¥8800/11,000; naiW; jKanayama-chō) With its satiny coverlets and backlit headboards, Hotel Active tries for a little

more style than the average business hotel. It’s right in the heart of things, and

extras such as free-drink machines, a spa and an included buffet breakfast make

this a good-value option.

Some English is spoken; it may be easier to book by phone than via the

Japanese-only website.

Candeo

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-511-1300; www.candeohotels.com; 14-1 Hatchō-bori; s/d incl breakfast from ¥11,185/14,325; pnaW; jHatchō-bori or Ebisu-chō)

Stylish Candeo has good-sized carpeted rooms with plush beds, impressive

smart TVs, spacious desks, and small bathrooms with tech touches such as

anti-fog mirrors. The extensive buffet breakfast is served in a ballroom-like

space with floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s a spa upstairs. It’s walkable to

most attractions and one stop on the sightseeing bus from the station.

o Hiroshima Inn Aioi

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 広島の宿相生; %082-247-9331; www.galilei.ne.jp/aioi; 1-3-14 Ōtemachi; r

per person with meals from ¥19,900; nai; jGenbaku-dōmu-mae)

At this fine traditional inn, kick back in a yukata (light cotton kimono) and

enjoy city and park views from your tatami room, or while lazing in the large

bath on the 7th floor. The meals are an elaborate traditional spread of dishes,

and you can opt for breakfast or dinner only.

Welcoming staff speak just a little English, but do their best to

accommodate.

5 Eating

Hiroshima has an excellent range of Japanese and international eating options

for all budgets, especially west of Peace Memorial Park and south of the Hon-

dōri covered arcade. Many restaurants offer good-value set-lunch menus, and

mall basements are budget-friendly. Hiroshima is famous for oysters and

Hiroshima-yaki (noodle- and meat-layered okonomiyaki; savoury pancakes).

Breakfast options are limited to bakeries.

o Okonomi-mura

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お好み村; www.okonomimura.jp; 2nd-4th fl, 5-13 Shintenchi; dishes ¥800-1300; h11am-2am; jEbisu-chō)

This Hiroshima institution is a touristy but fun place to get acquainted with

okonomiyaki and chat with the cooks over a hot griddle. There are 25 stalls

spread over three floors, each serving up hearty variations of the local

speciality. Pick a floor and find an empty stool at whichever counter takes your

fancy. Look for the entrance stairs off Chūō-dōri, on the opposite side of the

square to the white Parco shopping centre.

o Hassei

OKONOMIYAKI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 八誠; %082-242-8123; 4-17 Fujimi-chō; dishes ¥600-1300; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 5.30-11pm Sun; jChūden-mae)

The walls of this popular okonomiyaki specialist are covered with the

signatures and messages of famous and not-so-famous satisfied customers. The

tasty, generous layers of cabbage, noodles and other ingredients are indeed

satisfying – a half-order is probably more than enough at lunchtime.

Hassei is on a side street one block south of Heiwa-Ōdōri.

Maido Ōkini

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; まいどおおきに; %082-225-4477; 7-28 Teppōchō; dishes ¥108-410; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat)

If you want to get off the tourist circuit and eat with local workers, this

shokudō (small budget restaurant) serves authentic and excellent-value dishes,

conveniently on display. Take a tray and pick up the freshly cooked dishes you

want, canteen style. Choices such as pork with bean sprouts, okra, grilled

salmon, and spinach are simple and tasty.

Sushi-tei

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; すし亭; %082-249-1808; 4-21 Ebisu-chō; dishes ¥100-700, set menus ¥865-2160; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 11.30am-10pm Sun; jEbisu-chō)

If choosing sushi and sashimi seems overwhelming, the good set menus at

Sushi-tei can sort you out with eight to 12 pieces of artfully prepared fatty tuna,

salmon, egg, shrimp, sea urchin, eel and squid. The bar and tables are equally

popular with solo diners and groups, lingering over beers and sake. Ask for an

English menu.

Antonio

SEAFOOD

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-546-0777; http://antonio.owst.jp; 1-5-18 Ōtemachi; dishes ¥350-1280; jHon-dōri)

A seafood restaurant that wants to give the impression of dining at a market

somewhere in Portugal, complete with (Japanese) produce plucked from an ice

display. The mood is folksy bistro though, with warm lighting and wooden

tables. No meat dishes, just good fish carpaccio, squid pasta, salsa crab and

shrimp-and-scallop skewers.

Bakudanya

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ばくだん屋; %082-546-0089; www.bakudanya.net; 2-12 Shintenchi; noodles

¥700-1060; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; jEbisu-chō)

Try the famous Hiroshima tsukemen at this simple street-corner eatery.

Tsukemen is a ramen-like dish in which noodles and soup come separately .

These restaurants invented the dish, and the chain has spread across the

country. It’s opposite a ‘Don Quijote’ store.

There are other branches around the city, including on the shinkansen side of

Hiroshima Station.

o Tōshō

TOFU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 豆匠; %082-506-1028; www.toufu-tosho.jp; 6-24 Hijiyama-chō; set meals

¥2000-5000; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; v; jDanbara-1-chōme)

In a traditional wooden building overlooking a large garden with a pond and

waterfall, Tōshō specialises in homemade tofu, served in a variety of tasty and

beautifully presented forms by kimono-clad staff. Even the sweets are tofu

based. There is a range of set courses, with some pictures and basic English on

the menu.

From the tram stop, continue walking in the direction of the tram and turn

left uphill after Hijiyama shrine.

Vegimo

VEGAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ベジモ野菜食堂; %082-236-1230; www.vegimo-yasai.com; 1-5-11

Kamiya-chō; lunch sets ¥860-1130, mains from ¥1200; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm; Wv)

This chic, bright restaurant is all blond wood and stone, serving mostly vegan

deli plates of organic, local produce – salad, curry and veg with brown rice, or

an excellent vegan burger. There’s also grilled fish with olive tapenade, grass-

fed beef stew, alcohol and juices.

Oyster Conclave Kaki-tei

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 牡蠣亭; %082-221-8990; www.kakitei.jp; 11 Hashimoto-chō; mains ¥800-1800; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5-10pm Thu-Mon; jKanayama-chō)

Come to this intimate riverside bistro for local oysters prepared in a range of

mouthwatering ways. Lunch is a set menu (¥1800) of oysters in various guises,

served with salad and soup; an à la carte menu is available in the evenings.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Hiroshima is a great city for a weekend night out, with bars and pubs to suit

whatever mood you’re in. The city’s main entertainment district is made up of

hundreds of bars, restaurants and karaoke joints crowding the lanes between

Aioi-dōri and Heiwa-Ōdōri in the city centre. Most places serve light meals or

snacks, and some have live music.

o Organza

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ヲルガン座; %082-295-1553; www.organ-za.com; 2nd fl, Morimoto Bldg,

1-4-32 Tōkaichi-machi; h5.30pm-2am Tue-Fri, 11.30am-2am Sat, 11.30am-midnight Sun; jHonkawa-

chō)

Bookshelves, old-fashioned furniture, a piano and a stuffed deer head all add to

the busy surrounds at this smoky lounge-bar. Organza hosts an eclectic

schedule of live events (from acoustic guitar to cabaret), some with a cover

charge, and food is also served. Lunch on weekends only.

o Koba

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; コバ; %082-249-6556; 3rd fl, Rego Bldg, 1-4 Naka-machi; h6pm-2am Thu-Tue; jEbisu-chō)

It’s bound to be a good night if you drop into this laid-back place, where the

friendly metalloving musician owner ‘Bom-san’ can be found serving drinks

and cooking up small tasty meals. There is occasional live music.

It’s up the stairs in a concrete building, just behind Stussy.

Ninjō Ganko Yatai

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 人情がんこ屋台; %082-247-7662; h6.30pm-7am; jKanayama-chō) Six small izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries) squeezed into one large room make

up this convivial spot, where beer and sake come with the usual izakaya fare,

as well as some local-style okonomiyaki. Look for the lanterns and rope curtain

over the sliding-door entrance.

WORTH A TRIP

SANDAN GORGE

Sandan-kyō (三段峡, Sandan Gorge) is an 11km ravine about 50km northwest of Hiroshima,

within the Nishi-Chūgoku-Sanchi Quasi-National Park (西中国山地国定公園). A trail follows the

flow of the Shibaki-gawa through the gorge, providing visitors with access to waterfalls, swimming

holes, forests and fresh air. The hike is very popular in autumn, when the leaves change colour.

Hiroshima tourist office has a hiking map in English.

A dozen buses a day run from the Hiroshima Bus Centre to Sandan-kyō – it’s best to catch the

one express service (¥1440, 80 minutes, 8am) which returns at 3pm. The bus terminates at the

southern end of the gorge.

3 Entertainment

Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium

STADIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hiroshima Municipal Stadium; 2-3-1 Minami-Kaniya) This stadium is a good place to catch a baseball game and see the beloved local

team, the Carp. It’s a short walk southeast of Hiroshima Station – follow the

signs and the red-marked pathways.

A love of baseball is not a prerequisite for having a great time – it’s fun just

watching the rowdy yet organised enthusiasm of the crowd, especially when

the despised Yomiuri (Tokyo) Giants come to town. For schedule information

in English, see www.japanball.com, or ask at the tourist office. Buy tickets

(from ¥1700 unreserved) at the stadium a day in advance or at 7-Eleven stores.

Aki Hiroshima Busho-Tai

PERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Performers in Mōri-clan samurai costumes give small shows of song and

swordplay inside the south entrance of Hiroshima-jō every Sunday at 1.30pm

and 3pm. On Saturdays and holidays at 1pm and 3pm, the ‘samurai’ parade

from the tower to the south entrance in photo-friendly regalia.

HIROSHIMA & MIYAJIMA DISCOUNT PASSES

If you’ll be taking at least four tram trips in a day, get a one-day trip card, which gives you

unlimited travel for ¥600. A one-day card that covers trams plus return ferry to Miyajima (not

including Aqua Net Hiroshima from Ujina Port or Setonaikai Kisen Ferry from Peace Memorial

Park) is ¥840. The three-day Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass (Small Area) is a good deal at ¥1000 (for

foreigners with ID), covering tram rides, the sightseeing bus, loop buses and Miyajima ferry. Buy

passes from the tram terminal at the train station, from tram conductors on board (one-day cards

only), in Hiroshima Bus Centre, or at various hotels and hostels.

8 Information

In addition to the tourist offices, check out Hiroshima Navigator

(www.hiroshimacvb.jp) for tourism and practical information, as well as

downloadable audio guides to the sights. Get Hiroshima

(http://gethiroshima.com), an expat-run website and magazine, has an events

calendar, restaurant and bar reviews, and regular feature articles.

Hiroshima Rest House (広島市平和記念公園レストハウス; %082-247-6738;

www.mk-kousan.co.jp/rest-house; 1-1 Nakajima-machi; h8.30am-7pm Aug, to 6pm Mar-Jul & Sep-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb; jGenbaku-dōmu-mae) In Peace Memorial Park next to Motoyasu-bashi

bridge, this air-conditioned tourist office has comprehensive information,

English-speaking staff, and a small shop selling souvenirs.

Tourist Information Office (観光案内所; %082-261-1877; h9am-5.30pm; W) Inside

Hiroshima Station near the south exit, with English-speaking staff. There is

another branch at the north (shinkansen) exit (%082-263-6822; h9am-5.30pm).

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Hiroshima Airport (%082-231-5171; www.hij.airport.jp; 64-31 Hongō-chō, Mihara) is 40km east of the city, with bus connections to/from Hiroshima Station (¥1340, 45

minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes) via Hiroshima Bus Centre. Buses operate

from the airport from 8.20am to 9.40pm; buses run from Hiroshima Station

( shinkansen exit) from 6am to 7.20pm.

BOAT

There are connections from Hiroshima Port to Matsuyama in Shikoku with

Setonaikai Kisen Ferry (瀬戸内海汽船フェリー; %082-253-1212;

http://setonaikaikisen.co.jp), via standard car ferry (adult/child ¥3600/1800, 2¾ hours, 10 daily) or high-speed ‘Super Jet’ (adult/child ¥7100/3550, 1¼ hours, 12

daily). The port (広島港) is the last stop on trams 1, 3 and 5 bound for Ujina

(宇品).

BUS

Long-distance buses connect Hiroshima with all the major cities. Buses depart

from Hiroshima Bus Centre (広島バスセンター; www.h-buscenter.com; 3rd fl, 6-27

Motomachi; jKamiya-chō-nishi), located between the Sogo and AQ’A shopping

centres in the city centre. There is a good food court while you wait.

Highway buses ply a popular route between Matsue Station and Hiroshima

city (¥3900, three hours). At the time of writing, a years-long promotion to

increase visitor numbers had been extended, offering tickets on the route to

tourists for just ¥500! Enquire at the bus centre or tourist information offices to

check if it is still available at this price.

TRAIN

Hiroshima Station is on the JR San-yō line, which passes westwards to

Shimonoseki. It’s also a major stop on the Tokyo–Osaka–Hakata shinkansen

line. Note that if you’re travelling from Tokyo or Kyoto, you may need to

change trains at Osaka or Okayama en route. Example shinkansen journeys

from Hiroshima:

Hakata ¥8420, 65 to 95 minutes

Shin-Osaka ¥9710, 1½ hours

Tokyo ¥18,040, four hours

8 Getting Around

Most sights in Hiroshima are accessible either on foot or with a short tram

(streetcar) ride. There is also a convenient hop-on, hop-off sightseeing loop bus

that links the main attractions.

Hiroshima’s trams (www.hiroden.co.jp) will get you almost anywhere you

want to go for a flat fare of ¥180. You pay by dropping the fare into the

machine by the driver as you get off the tram. If you have to change trams to

get to your destination, you should ask for a norikae-ken (transfer ticket).

AROUND HIROSHIMA

Miyajima 宮島

%0829 / POP 2015

The small island of Miyajima (宮島) is a Unesco World Heritage Site and one

of Japan’s most visited tourist spots. Its star attraction is the oft-photographed

vermilion torii (shrine gate) of Itsukushima-jinja, which seems to float on the

waves at high tide – a scene that has traditionally been ranked as one of the

three best views in Japan. It is also at its evocative best at sunset, or when lit up

after dark.

Besides this fêted view, Miyajima has some good hikes on sacred Misen, as

well as temples and cheeky deer that do what they want, when they want, and

will eat your map (or JR Pass) right out of your pocket if you’re not careful.

Miyajima

1 Top Sights

1 Daishō-in

B3

2 Floating Torii

B2

3 Itsukushima-jinja

B2

1 Sights

4 Daigan-ji

B2

5 Floating Nō Stage

B2

6 Momiji-dani-kōen

C3

7 Tahō-tō

B3

4 Sleeping

8 Guest House Kikugawa

C1

9 Iwasō Ryokan

C3

5 Eating

10 Cafe Lente

B2

11 Fujitaya

B3

12 Kakiya

C2

13 Mame-tanuki

B2

14 Sarasvati

B2

1 Sights

To head straight to the torii of Itsukushimajinja, turn right as you emerge from

the ferry terminal and follow the waterfront for 10 minutes.

The main shopping street, Omotesando, is a block back from the waterfront

and packed with souvenir outlets and restaurants. This is also where you’ll find

the world’s largest shakushi (rice scoop).

o Floating Torii

GATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大鳥居) This 16m-tall vermilion torii (shrine gate) is a symbol of Miyajima and the

watery entrance to World Heritage shrine Itsukushima-jinja. At high tide, it

appears to float on the water. There has been a torii at this site since 1168; the

current gate dates from the late 1800s. Repair work on the torii is being carried

out from June 2019 and is expected to last 2–3 years, during which the gate

will not be visible to the public.

o Itsukushima-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 厳島神社; 1-1 Miyajima-chō; ¥300; h6.30am-5.30pm Jan-Nov, to 5pm Dec) With origins as far back as the late 6th century, Itsukushima-jinja gives

Miyajima its real name. The shrine’s unique and attractive pier-like

construction is a result of the island’s sacred status: commoners were not

allowed to set foot on the island and had to approach by boat through the torii

in the bay. Much of the time, though, the shrine and torii are surrounded by

mud.

The shrine’s present form dates from 1168, when it was rebuilt under the

patronage of Taira no Kiyomori, head of the doomed Heike clan. On one side

of the shrine is a floating nō stage ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 能舞台), built by local lord Asano Tsunanaga in 1680 and still used for nō (stylised dance-drama)

performances every year from 16 to 18 April, as part of the Toka-sai Festival.

o Misen & Ropeway

MOUNTAIN

(弥山; www.miyajima-ropeway.info; ropeway one way/return adult ¥1000/1800, child ¥500/900; hropeway 9am-5pm)

Covered with primeval forest, the sacred, peaceful Misen is Miyajima’s highest

mountain (530m), and its ascent is the island’s finest walk – especially in

spring and autumn, when the valley is painted with cherry blossom or autumnal

hues. You can avoid most of the uphill climb by taking the two-stage ropeway

with its giddying sea views, which leaves you with a 30-minute walk to the top,

where there is an excellent observatory.

At the summit observatory, you can kick off your shoes and laze on wooden

platforms while enjoying 360-degree views – on clear days you can see across

to the mountain ranges of Shikoku.

Close to the summit is a temple where Kōbō Daishi meditated for 100 days,

following his return from China in the 9th century. Next to the main temple

hall is a flame that’s been burning continually since Kōbō Daishi lit it 1200

years ago. From the temple, a path leads down the hillside to Daishō-in and

Itsukushima-jinja. The descent takes a little over an hour, or you can take the

ropeway back down. While on the mountain you might see monkeys and deer

around the ropeway station.

The ropeway station (Momiji-dani Station) to ascend Misen is about a 10-

minute walk on from Momiji-dani-kōen, or a few minutes on the free shuttle

bus, which runs every 20 minutes from a stop near Iwasō Ryokan.

o Daishō-in

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大聖院; %0829-44-0111; 210 Miyajima-chō; h8am-5pm) F

Just south of town at the foot of Misen, Daishō-in is a worthwhile stopping

point on the way up or down the mountain. This Shingon temple is crowded

with interesting things to look at: from Buddhist images and prayer wheels to

sharp-beaked tengu (bird-like demons) and a cave containing images from each

of the 88 Shikoku pilgrimage temples. Daishō-in is a 15-minute walk from the

ferry terminal; it’s another 90 minutes if you intend to hike to Misen’s summit.

z Festivals & Events

Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival

FIREWORKS

(%0829-44-2011; hmid-Aug)

During Miyajima’s most popular event, spectacular and imaginative fireworks

are launched over the water, at a safe distance from the floating torii but still

creating a one-of-a-kind visual. Come early and be prepared for crowds;

around 40,000 people regularly attend, with an additional 200,000 watching

from the mainland. Many spectators come dressed in yukata.

In the past, floods have forced the cancellation of the event, so check ahead.

Kangen-sai

RELIGIOUS

(hlate Jul/early Aug)

This Shintō ritual sees decorated wooden boats float by to the sound of

traditional drums and flutes. It’s held in summer, starting early evening on the

17th of the sixth lunar-calendar month – check with the tourist office for exact

dates for the year you’re in town. Other ceremonies take place in the afternoon

at Itsukushima-jinja.

4 Sleeping

It’s worth staying overnight on the island to enjoy the evening quiet once the

crowds have left and the floating torii is lit up.

Guest House Kikugawa

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゲストハウス菊がわ; %0829-44-0039; www.kikugawa.ne.jp; 796

Miyajima-chō; s/tw from ¥6800/11,880; naiW)

This charming good-value inn is built in traditional style with wooden interiors.

There are both tatami rooms with futons and rooms with beds, all featuring

attached bathrooms. The tatami rooms are slightly larger – the most spacious

with a cosy mezzanine sleeping area. Dinners are available, as is a no-frills

Western-style breakfast.

Heading inland from the ferry terminal, walk through the tunnel; turn right

after this and look for Kikugawa on the left opposite Zonkō-ji (存光寺) temple.

o Iwasō Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 岩惣; %0829-44-2233; www.iwaso.com; Momiji-dani Miyajima-chō; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥23,800; nai)

The Iwasō, open since 1854, offers a grand ryokan experience amid exquisite

gardens. There are three wings; a stay in a lovely ‘Hanare’ cottage will set you

back the most. Not all rooms have private bathrooms, but you can soak in the

onsen in the main building. It’s especially stunning in autumn, when Momiji-

dani (Maple Valley) explodes with colour.

It’s about a 15-minute walk from the ferry port, or a pick-up can be arranged.

5 Eating

Plenty of restaurants line the main shopping strip of Omotesando and near the

waterfront. One street back from Omotesando is the quieter Machiya-dōri, with

a few cafes and eateries. Most restaurants shut down after the crowds go home

– the tourist office has a list of those that stay open for dinner. Oysters are a

speciality in Miyajima and Hiroshima; as is anago (saltwater eel) – try it on

rice as anago meshidon.

o Cafe Lente

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; %0829-44-1204; 1167-3 Miyajima-chō; mains ¥850; h11am-9pm Wed-Mon; Wv)

This comfortable cafe boasts excellent views of the torii and sea. Open and

airy, it serves handsome-looking lunches, such as Japanese chicken curry and

vegan risotto, to go with the quietly stylish decor. Organic coffee or wine are

other excuses to drop by and chat to the English-speaking owner.

Sarasvati

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0829-44-2266; www.sarasvati.jp; 407 Miyajima-chō; meals ¥990-1500; h8.30am-7pm)

The aroma of roasting coffee beans lures people into this cafe inside a former

storehouse dating from the early 1900s. Bare wooden floors and tables match a

simple menu of coffees (from ¥500; including espresso, latte and cappuccino),

plus pasta sets (try Miyajima-oyster), baguettes and rich cakes.

o Fujitaya

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP ; ふじたや; %0829-44-0151; 125-2 Miyajima-chō; mains ¥2500; h11am-5pm)

Discerning visitors queue at this small restaurant in a traditional house and

garden to get their hands on Miyajima’s signature dish, anago meshidon, the

only thing on the menu here. The large bowls of succulent fish-like eel are

freshly made after ordering. To get here, on exiting Itsukushima-jinja, take the

small street directly in front of you.

o Mame-tanuki

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; まめたぬき; %0829-44-2131; www.miyajimamametanuki.com; 1113

Miyajima-chō; dishes ¥500-1500, lunch sets ¥1400-3240; h11am-3.30pm & 5-11pm; W)

By day at Mame-tanuki there are lunch sets, such as the tasty anago meshidon

and fried oysters; at night it is one of the few places open late, serving drinks

and izakaya-style small dishes. Look for the yellowish building; there’s a menu

signboard outside.

No smoking in the evening.

Kakiya

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 牡蠣屋; %0829-44-2747; www.kaki-ya.jp; 539 Miyajima-chō; oyster sets

¥1200-2690; h10am-6pm)

Kakiya is a sophisticated oyster bar on the main street, serving delicious local

oysters freshly barbecued in their shells. For a taste of oysters done five ways,

try the ‘Kakiya set’. Wash them down with a glass of something from the well-

stocked wine cellar.

Look for the white lantern.

8 Information

Tourist Information Counter (宮島観光案内所; %0829-44-2011; www.visit-miyajima-

japan.com; h9am-6pm) Inside the ferry terminal on Miyajima. There is also a

counter between the two ferry wharves on the mainland side.

8 Getting There & Away

Miyajima is accessed by ferry and is an easy day trip from Hiroshima.

The mainland ferry terminal is a short walk from Miyajima-guchi Station on

the JR San-yō line, halfway between Hiroshima Station (¥410, 30 minutes) and

Iwakuni. The ferry terminal can also be reached by tram 2 from Hiroshima

(¥260, 1¼ hours; not JR), which runs from Hiroshima Station, passing the

city’s Atomic Bomb Dome on the way. Ferries operated by two companies

shuttle regularly across to the island from Miyajima-guchi (¥180, 10 minutes).

JR Pass holders can travel on the JR ferry for free. The bargain three-day Visit

Hiroshima Tourist Pass Small Area covers trams and ferries to Miyajima.

Setonaikai Kisen operates high-speed ferries (one way/return ¥1850/3300,

45 minutes, eight daily) direct to Miyajima from Hiroshima’s Ujina Port, 5km

south of central Hiroshima. To get to Ujina Port, take tram 1 or 3 from

Hiroshima Bus Centre (¥180, 35 minutes, frequent) to the Hiroshimako stop.

Another option is to take the Aqua Net ferry (%082-240-5955; www.aqua-net-h.co.jp/en) directly from Peace Memorial Park in central Hiroshima (one-way/return

¥2000/3600, 45 minutes, 10 to 15 daily). These boats cruise under the bridges

of the Kyūōta-gawa before coming out into the bay towards Miyajima. No

reservation is required.

8 Getting Around

Everywhere on Miyajima is within easy walking distance. Hand-pulled

rickshaws (from ¥4000 for two) are an atmospheric indulgence. There are also

taxis on the island – ask at the tourist office for details.

Saijō 西条

A short train ride east of Hiroshima is the town of Saijō (西条), where seven

sake breweries are clustered within easy walking distance of the station. The

brewers here know their stuff – Saijō has been producing sake for around 300

years – and most open up their doors to curious and thirsty visitors for free

sake tastings. This is the place to try a tipple sipped by world leaders.

When you’re done drink savouring, you can pay your respects to the god of

sake at Matsuo-jinja (松尾神社; %0853-67-0007; 296 Saijō-chō), a short walk to the

north of Saijō Station.

1 Sights

Kamotsuru

BREWERY

(賀茂鶴; %082-422-2121; www.kamotsuru.jp; 4-31 Saijō-honmachi; h8.30am-4.30pm) F

Founded in 1623 and among the best-known Saijō sake breweries, Kamotsuru

is worth a look as it has a large tasting room, and screens a video about the

district. Its other claim to fame is that, when Prime Minister Abe met US

president Barack Obama in Japan in 2014, they toasted with a sake brewed

here – namely Diginjo Tokusei Gold.

Hakubotan

BREWERY

(白牡丹; %082-422-2142; www.hakubotan.co.jp; 15-5 Saijō-honmachi; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 10.30am Sat & Sun)

One of Saijō’s oldest sake breweries, Hakubotan has a lovely broad-beamed

display and tasting room with Munakata woodblock prints on the wall.

z Festivals & Events

Saijō Sake Matsuri

FOOD & DRINK

(西条酒祭り; www.sakematsuri.com; hOct)

If you’re in the Hiroshima area on the second weekend of October, don’t miss

the Saijō Sake Festival, when crowds descend on Saijō for hours of sampling

and events.

4 Sleeping & Eating

For a bite to eat and a freshly roasted coffee, stop in at Kugurimon Cafe (くぐ

り門; %082-426-3005; www.kugurimon.com; 17-1 Hon-machi; meals ¥450-1180; h10am-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Tue of the month). Alternatively, try the handful of noodle and sushi joints

at the station between trains, or the restaurants around the breweries.

Hiroshima Saijo Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(広島西条駅前ユースホステル; %082-495-5306; www7b.biglobe.ne.jp/~hiroshimasaijoyha;

3-3 Saijō-oka-chō; dm ¥3500; naW)

If you want to sip and stay in Saijō, this hostel next to the station is very handy.

Dangerously, there is free sake in the communal kitchen’s fridge, but the caring

owner is usually on hand to take care of guests. Mattresses are thicker than

most, and the coin laundry is handy for any spills.

8 Information

A beginner’s guide to sake and what makes each local brewery special is

available at www.saijosake.com.

Saijō Tourist Information Office (%082-430-7701; 2nd fl, Saijō Station; h9am-6pm; W)

Offers a good walking map in English, showing the location of each sake

brewery.

8 Getting There & Away

Saijō is 40 minutes by train from Hiroshima (¥580) on the JR San-yō line.

Iwakuni 岩国

%0827 / POP 137,120

Iwakuni (岩国), noteworthy for its five-arched bridge and old samurai quarters,

is an easy day trip from Hiroshima (or stopoff en route between Yamaguchi

and Hiroshima).

1 Sights

o Kintai-kyō

BRIDGE

(錦帯橋; %0827-41-1477; 1 Iwakuni; return ¥300, combination incl cable car & castle ¥940; h8am-

5pm)

Iwakuni’s chief claim to fame is this graceful bridge, built in 1673 during the

rule of feudal lord Kikkawa Hiroyoshi. It has been restored several times since

then, but its high arches remain an impressive sight over the wide river, with

Iwakuni-jō atop the green hills behind.

Honke Matsugane

HOUSE

(本家 松がね, Iwakuni City Visitors Center; %0827-28-6600; www.honke-matsugane.jp; 1-7-3

Iwakuni; h9am-6pm Apr-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Mar) F

Both a tourist information office and a cultural experience, inside a traditional

Japanese house dating from 1850 near the bridge entrance. The elegant

building belonged to a family that produced hair oil used by samurai, and short

free tours in English highlight decorative features such as nail covers in the

walls. It’s also possible to try reasonably priced Iwakuni zushi (local square

sushi), renkon (lotus root) chips and Iwakuni sake. Excellent English spoken.

Kikkō-kōen

PARK

(吉香公園; 2-6-51 Yokoyama)

What remains of the old samurai quarter in Iwakuni now forms pleasant Kikkō-

kōen, accessed via Kintai-kyō bridge. Within the park are old residences, a

pavilion, a couple of museums, ice-cream vendors and spots for picnicking.

Worth a look is the exterior of the Mekata Family Residence (旧目加田家住

宅; 2-6 Yokoyama; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) F, the former home of a middle-ranking

samurai family from the mid-Edo period.

8 Information

MONEY

There is only one ATM near the bridge entrance, at the 7-Eleven reached by

walking 10 minutes south along the water. Once you cross the bridge, there are

no ATMs in Kikkō-kōen so come prepared with some cash, at least for small

purchases.

TOURIST INFORMATION

There’s a tourist information office (%0827-24-9071; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) inside JR

Iwakuni Station, with another at Shin-Iwakuni Station (h10.30am-3.30pm Thu-Tue).

8 Getting There & Away

JR Iwakuni Station is on the San-yō line, west of Hiroshima (¥760, 55

minutes). Shin-Iwakuni Station is on the San-yō shinkansen line, connecting to

Hiroshima (¥1620, 15 minutes) and Shin-Yamaguchi (¥3390, 30 minutes).

The bridge and park are a 20-minute bus ride (¥300) from outside JR

Iwakuni. There are also buses to the bridge (¥350, 15 minutes) from Shin-

Iwakuni at stop 1. Buses leave regularly.

If coming from Hiroshima without a JR Pass, you may find it more

convenient to get the Iwakuni bus from Hiroshima Bus Centre (stop 1), as it

handily drops you at Kintai-kyō (one way/return ¥930/1700, 50 minutes, 12

daily).

ONOMICHI & THE SHIMANAMI KAIDŌ

For many travellers, Onomichi is the base from which to cycle the Shimanami

Kaidō, the system of road bridges that allows people to island-hop their way

across the Inland Sea to Shikoku.

4 Sleeping

Onomichi has some ryokan and hip guesthouses perched on the hillside behind

the town, which is atmospheric, but only for those who can haul up their

luggage. Most hostels along and off the tiled, covered shopping arcade are still

a 15-minute walk from the station. Cyclists wanting a quick getaway are best

staying near the port, where most of the accommodation is anyhow. Budget

accommodation fills up quickly on weekends; book ahead.

Ikuchi-jima is a good place to overnight if you’re cycling the Shimanami

Kaidō chain of bridges. Tourist Information Setoda can help book

accommodation, as can the office in Onomichi.

CYCLING THE SHIMANAMI KAIDŌ

The Setouchi Shimanami Kaidō (瀬戸内しまなみ海道; Shimanami Sea Route) is a chain of

bridges linking Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku,

via six Inland Sea islands. Besides being remarkable feats of engineering (the monster Kurushima-

kaikyō trio at the Imabari end are among the longest suspension bridges in the world), the bridges

make it possible to cycle the whole way across. Breezing along 50m or more above the island-

dotted sea is an amazing experience, and a highlight of any trip to this part of Japan. Needless to

say, it’s best enjoyed when the weather is fine.

The Route

The route begins on Mukai-shima (a quick boat ride from Onomichi) and crosses Inno-shima,

Ikuchi-jima, Ōmi-shima, Hakata-jima and Ōshima, before the final bridge to reach Imabari. The

‘recommended’ route is well marked with information boards and maps, but there’s nothing

stopping you from taking detours along the minor routes around the islands and plotting your own

course from bridge to bridge. Much of the recommended route is fairly flat, with the odd minor

hill, but there are long, thigh-burning inclines leading up to each bridge entrance. The ride takes

you through towns, villages and rural areas, past citrus groves and along the coastline, but does

also hit some less-pretty built-up industrial patches.

Distance & Time

The total recommended route from Onomichi to Imabari is roughly 70km and could be done in

eight or so hours, depending on your fitness and propensity to stop and take pictures. You could

take the ferry part of the way, such as to Ikuchi-jima, and bike the rest (where the ferry does not

go). Alternatively, a good day trip from Onomichi is to cycle to Ikuchi-jima (about 30km) and

return to Onomichi on the ferry in the afternoon. Some cyclists opt to spend a night on one of the

islands on the way across – Ikuchi-jima is a popular stopover. Otherwise, take it easy and just

spend a few hours cycling a section of the route on one of the islands.

Information

The tourist office in Onomichi, and those on each of the islands, can help with all the information

you need, including an excellent map in English, showing the routes, distances, sights and

locations of bike terminals along the way. There’s information in English at www.go-shimanami.jp,

from where you can download the English map. You’ll also find basic maps, plus bus and ferry

schedules, at www.city.onomichi.hiroshima.jp.

If you need to get heavy luggage across, try Kuroneko Yamato (www.kuronekoyamato.co.jp), whose takkyūbin (express shipping) service will deliver it for you by the next business day (from

around ¥1000 depending on size). It picks up from many convenience stores.

Bikes & Costs

Bike hire is ¥1000 per day, plus ¥1000 deposit. You don’t get the deposit back if you return the

bike to a different rental place along the route. There are large bike-hire terminals in Onomichi and

Imabari (サンライズ糸山; %0898-41-3196; www.sunrise-itoyama.jp; 2-8-1 Sunaba-chō, Imabari; bicycle rental per day from ¥1000, plus ¥1000 deposit; h7am-9pm), and on each island in between.

Electric-assist bicycles are also available for ¥1500 per day; these have to be returned to the same

rental terminal. It’s not necessary to reserve a bike, though it’s possible to do so and you may want

to consider it if you’re planning to cycle on a major holiday. Note that reservations can’t be made

less than a week in advance.

At the time of writing, cyclists did not need to pay bridge tolls and could cross for free, as fees

had been waived. This years-long promotion is likely to be extended, but check tourist offices for

the latest. Otherwise fees are between ¥50 and ¥200 per bridge. No one actually collects this

money; you’re trusted to drop the coins into the box at the bridge entrances.

To take a bike on a ferry costs up to ¥300.

8 Getting There & Around

BICYCLE

Onomichi Port Rent-a-Cycle (%0848-22-5332; http://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/rental; per day

¥1000, deposit ¥1000; h7am-7pm Mar-Nov, 8am-6pm Dec-Feb) Located in the car park next

to the ferry terminal, with multiple bikes. Bikes with gears and electric-assist

bikes (¥1500 per day; must be returned here) are available. There are a dozen

drop-off points on the Shimanami Kaidō route, useful if you get tired and

decide to take a bus.

BOAT

Setouchi Cruising (%0865-62-2856; www.s-cruise.jp) ferries travel from Onomichi

Ekimae Port (in front of Onomichi Station) to Shigei-Higashi Port (¥600, 20

minutes, eight daily) on the east side of Inno-shima en route to Setoda Port

(¥1200, 40 minutes, eight daily) on Ikuchi-jima. It is an additional ¥400 to take

a bicycle. Ōmi-shima is not connected by ferry; the nearest port is Setoda on

Ikuchi-jima.

If coming directly from Hiroshima Airport, take an airport bus (bicycles in a

bag allowed; ¥820, 35 minutes, every 90 minutes) to Mihara Port, from where

there are ferries to Setoda Port (¥820, 28 minutes, seven daily).

There are frequent ferries from Onomichi to Mukai-shima (¥100, five

minutes), where the Shimanami Kaidō begins, which accept bicycles (¥10).

BUS

Regular buses run to Imabari (¥2330) in Shikoku from Onomichi Station (some

originating in Shin-Onomichi Station), most with a 15- to 40-minute transfer at

Inno-shima or Mukai-shima, but three daily run direct. It takes up to two hours,

depending on the connection, or 90 minutes direct. Buses also run between

Onomichi and Setoda Port on Ikuchi-jima (¥1030, 1¼ hours, four daily).

TRAIN

Onomichi is on the main JR San-yō line, east of Hiroshima (¥1490, 1½ hours).

The Shin-Onomichi shinkansen station is 3km north. Regular buses (¥190, 20

minutes) connect the two.

Onomichi 尾道

%0848 / POP 141,810

Onomichi (尾道) is a gritty, old-timey seaport town with hills full of temples,

literary sites and cats. Local businesses increasingly embrace its retro-chic

charm, and a visit is a glimpse of a quaint Japan of yesteryear. Film director

Ōbayashi Nobuhiko was born in Onomichi, and the town has featured in a

number of Japanese movies, notably Ozu Yasujirō’s Tokyo Story.

1 Sights & Activities

o Temple Walk

WALKING

(古寺めぐり)

This picturesque trail takes in 25 old temples in the hills behind the town,

following narrow lanes and steep stone stairways, where cats laze in the

sunshine. Along the route is a ropeway (千光寺山ロープウェイ; one-way/return

¥320/500; hevery 15min, 9am-5.15pm) to an observation tower and a park area (Senkō-

ji-kōen), home to Onomichi’s best-known temple, Senkō-ji (千光寺). There are

cute cafes, gift shops and galleries dotted between the temples.

The temple walk starts just east of the station: take the inland road from the

station and cross the railway tracks by the statue of local author Hayashi

Fumiko. To walk the whole trail takes a couple of hours. You can cut back

down into town at various points along the way, or take the ropeway.

4 Sleeping

o Onomichi Guesthouse Anago no Nedoko

HOSTEL

¥

(あなごのねどこ; %0848-38-1005; http://anago.onomichisaisei.com; 2-4-9 Tsuchidō; dm from

¥2800; naiW)

Within a traditional old wooden house restored as part of an NPO project to

give life to vacant dwellings, Anago is a budget option with character. As well

as the dorms (accessed via narrow stairs) with firm beds and individual

curtains, there are tatami family rooms (¥3300 per person), a kitchen and a

schoolroom-themed cafe. Enter from the shōtengai (shopping arcade).

Pick up one of the excellent homemade maps.

o Hotel Cycle

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥¥

(%0848-21-0550; www.onomichi-u2.com; U2 complex, 5-11 Nishi-gosho-cho; tw from ¥17,000; naiW) Hotel Cycle, within the large U2 complex right on the waterfront boardwalk, is

aimed at both the cycling crowd and those with an eye for design. The dark,

minimalist tones suggest both boutique hotel and bicycle museum. The softly

lit rooms (all twins) feature bike storage and spacious baths, perfect for a soak

after a long day of pedalling.

U2 also houses a cafe (where you can ‘ride through’), bar, restaurant and

bakery, as well as a bicycle repair space and Giant bicycle shop.

Uonobu Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(魚信旅館; %0848-37-4175; www.uonobu.jp; 2-27-6 Kubo; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥18,900) Elegantly old-fashioned Uonobu is a good ryokan experience, but it’s probably

best if you can speak a little Japanese, although the hosts are welcoming

anyhow. It’s renowned for its seafood; nonguests can eat here if they reserve by

5pm the previous day. Find it about a 20-minute walk east from the station, just

after the city hall (市役所).

Green Hill Hotel Onomichi

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(グリーンヒルホテル尾道; %0848-24-0100; www.shimanami-gho.co.jp; 9-1 Higashi-gosho-

machi; s/tw from ¥7910/17,700; pnaiW)

Directly above the ferry port and a minute’s walk from the station, this well-

appointed hotel could hardly be better located. The neutral rooms have

comfortable beds, and after a day’s cycling there’s a useful coin laundry and a

free-to-use massage chair. Pay a little more for a room on the sea-view side.

5 Eating

Onomichi is known for its ramen, and you’ll find plenty of places dishing up

this speciality, which uses a soup base of chicken and dashi (dried fish stock),

and sometimes also pork fat.

Go east from the station to find eateries along the waterfront and in the

arcade one block inland.

Onomichi Rāmen Ichibankan

RAMEN

¥

(尾道ラーメン壱番館; %0848-21-1119; www.f-ichibankan.com; 2-9-26 Tsuchidō; noodles ¥580-

950; h11am-7pm Sat-Thu)

Opposite a shrine and facing the water, a 15-minute walk from the station, this

popular noodle shop is a good place to try Onomichi ramen, characterised by

thick slabs of juicy pork. Its bestseller is the kaku-ni rāmen (noodles with eggs

and tender cuts of fatty pork).

Kome Doko

JAPANESE

¥¥

(こめどこ食堂; %0848-36-5333; www.facebook.com/komedokoshokudou; 5-2 Higashi-gosho-chō; set lunch/dinner ¥1300/3500; h11am-2pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sun)

Slightly fancy, a rarity for Onomichi, this bistro-style restaurant uses locally

sourced ingredients in excellent dishes that might make you wish portions were

heftier, but allow you to sample more flavours such as tempura Okinawa bitter

melon, miso-braised burger and seafood risotto. Dishes focus on rice and

fermented ingredients. It’s upstairs with sea views; look for ‘Onomichi 2014’

on the building.

Hana Akari

SUSHI

¥¥

(花あかり; %0848-24-2287; 1-12-13 Tsuchidō; meals ¥1050-1630; h11am-10pm)

Every table has a sea view at this homely little seafood restaurant. The lively

owner brightens up lunch, and it features excellent-value sashimi, sushi and

tempura. Beware, the included seafood chawanmushi (savoury egg custard) is

not a dessert. It’s a five-minute walk east along the port road from Onomichi

Station; look for the orange perspex sign.

8 Information

There is an ATM accepting international cards in the 7-Eleven on the port road

east of the station.

Tourist Information Office (%0848-20-0005; www.ononavi.com; h9am-6pm) Supplies

local maps, information on the Shimanami Kaidō, and can help with

accommodation. English is spoken. It’s inside JR Onomichi Station. There are

also maps adjacent to the ticket counter for Senkō-ji-yama Ropeway.

Inno-shima 因島

Famed for its flowers and fruit, Inno-shima (因島) is connected by bridge to

Mukaishima, facing Onomichi, and Ikuchi-jima to the west. The Inland Sea

was once a haven for pirates, and Inno-shima was the base of one of the three

Murakami pirate clans. Today you can get a taste for that time at the modern-

replica pirate castle (因島水軍城, Suigun-jō; %0845-24-0936; 3228-2 Inno-shima

Nakanosho-chō; ¥310; h9.30am-5pm Fri-Wed), which has some displays of weaponry.

Worth cycling (then hiking) up to is Shirataki-yama (白滝山), a collection

of sculptures of the 500 Rakan disciples of the Buddha. A picturesque bonus is

the excellent panoramic view over the sea, islands and a bridge of the

Shimanami Kaidō. Cycle (or drive) to the entrance (2km from Shigei-Higashi

Port), where the steps begin; the ascent takes most people about 10 minutes.

For cyclists, Inno-shima is 22km from Onomichi.

Ikuchi-jima 生口島

Ikuchi-jima (生口島) is known for its citrus groves and beaches, including

Sunset Beach on the west coast. The main port town is Setoda.

For cyclists, Ikuchi-jima is 31km from Onomichi. If you rented a bicycle

from Onomichi Port and have had enough of riding, there are bicycle return

points here.

1 Sights

o Ikuo Hirayama Museum of Art

GALLERY

(平山郁夫美術館; www.hirayama-museum.or.jp; 200-2 Setoda-chō; ¥900; h9am-5pm)

The Ikuo Hirayama Museum of Art is dedicated to the life and work of the

famous and well-travelled Setoda-born artist. The collection here includes

several striking works inspired by Ikuo’s journeys in India and along the Silk

Road. A video overview of his life explains how his exposure to radiation in

Hiroshima and illness led him to Buddhism, as seen in his paintings.

Kōsan-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(耕三寺; www.kousanji.or.jp; 553-2 Setoda-chō; adult/child ¥1400/free; h9am-5pm)

Buddhist theme park, anyone? Shortly after the death of his beloved mother in

1934, local steel-tube magnate and arms manufacturer Kanemoto Kōzō became

a Buddhist priest and sank his fortune into a series of vividly coloured temple

buildings. The result is the remarkable Kōsan-ji, a sprawl of over-the-top

Buddhist kitsch, consisting of some 2000 exhibits. Don’t miss the 1000

Buddhas Cave and its series of graphically illustrated hells.

Kōsan-ji is a 15-minute walk from Setoda Port. The arty, white-marble cafe

here has impressive sea views.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Casual eating options are clustered along the signposted ‘Shiomachi’ shopping

street running east from Setoda Port, with local specialities of roast chicken,

dried octopus and Setoda orange juice served in the fruit shell itself.

Setoda Private Hostel

RYOKAN

¥

(瀬戸田垂水温泉, Setoda Tarumi Onsen; %0845-27-3137; http://setodashimanami.web.fc2.com;

58-1 Tarumi Setoda-chō; r per person with/without meals ¥4800/3000)

This cheap and cheerful ryokan on Sunset Beach near the main sights has its

own onsen and basic, individual tatami rooms; payment is by cash only. If

you’re not arriving on two wheels, pick-up can be arranged from Setoda ferry

port. The tourist office in Onomichi can help with reservations. Breakfast

(¥600) and dinner (¥1200) are also available separately.

8 Information

Tourist Information Setoda (尾道観光協会 瀬戸田支部; %0845-27-0051; 200-5

Setoda-chō; h9am-5pm; W) Tourist information office opposite Ikuo Hirayama

Museum of Art, with maps and cycling information in English as well as

bicycle rental (¥1000 per day), bikerepair tools, lockers and free wi-fi.

Ōmi-shima 大三島

The mountainous island of Ōmi-shima (大三島) is connected by bridge to

Ikuchi-jima to the east and Ō-shima to the southeast. For such a modest,

mandarin-growing island, some remarkable architectural gems have been

grabbing the attention of visitors. Award-winning architect Itō Toyo has

implemented ambitious building projects to revive the island’s fortunes while

honouring its natural environment. There are also rewarding sea views at every

turn.

Ōmi-shima is 42km along the Shimanami Kaidō from Onomichi, or 36km

from Imbari Station on the other end of the cycling road. Ōmi-shima is one of

the hillier islands on the bicycle route so may take more time to explore.

1 Sights

o Tokoro Museum

GALLERY

(ところミュージアム大三島; %0897-83-0380; http://museum.city.imabari.ehime.jp/tokoro;

2362-3 Urado, Ōmi-shima-chō; ¥300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This museum boasts a small but interesting collection of modern sculpture,

often satirical, in a hilltop building with stunning sea views from the deck. The

ride up is hilly but worth it.

Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture

MUSEUM

(www.tima-imabari.jp; ¥800; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This ode to architecture and Ōmi-shima showcases the natural beauty of the

island through two buildings designed by internationally acclaimed architect

Itō Toyo. Resembling a giant section of honeycomb, the black metallic Steel

Hut exhibits photos covering Ōmi-shima culture and its inhabitants. It also

displays the process of Itō’s works, which include a Serpentine Gallery

Pavilion structure in London, and the Mikimoto building in Ginza, Tokyo.

Ōyamazumi-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(大山祇神社; %0897-82-0032; 3327 Miyaura, Ōmi-shima-chō; Treasure Hall & Kaiji Museum

¥1000; h8.30am-5pm)

Ōyamazumi-jinja is one of the oldest Shintō shrines in western Japan. The

deity enshrined here is the brother of Amaterasu, the sun goddess. The present

structure dates from 1378, but in the courtyard is a 2600-year-old camphor tree,

and the treasure hall contains the most important collection of ancient weapons

found anywhere in Japan.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are places to eat around Ōyamazumi-jinja, including good, cheap

seafood joints. Look for the Ōmi-shima speciality cake, made with whole local

mandarins, zest and all.

o Ōmi-shima Ikoi-no-Ie

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(大三島 憩いの家; %0897-83-1111; www.ikoinoie.co.jp; 5208-1 Munakata, Ōmi-shima-chō; dm/d per person incl 2 meals from ¥5000/15,000; pW)

As young people abandoned the island, an Ōmi-shima family converted a

deserted schoolhouse into this boutique guesthouse under the guidance of

famous Japanese architect Itō Toyo. Original wooden beams, classroom signs,

taps and lamps provoke nostalgia even in non-Japanese guests. Cedar-chic

Western or tatami rooms are modern with black-tiled bathrooms. Staying here,

complete with seafood meals, is a unique experience.

OKAYAMA & THE INLAND SEA

Okayama Prefecture (岡山県; Okayama-ken) is known for its rural character.

The area is home to Kurashiki, with its well-preserved merchant quarter and

picturesque canal, and the historic ceramic-making centre of Bizen – both

within easy reach of prefectural capital Okayama. The coastline in this area

also provides jumping-off points for some of the most popular islands in the

Inland Sea, including arty Naoshima.

MOMOTARŌ, THE PEACH BOY

Okayama Prefecture and Kagawa Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku, are linked by the legend of

Momotarō, the Peach Boy, who emerged from the stone of a peach and, backed up by a monkey, a

pheasant and a dog, defeated a three-eyed, three-toed people-eating demon. There are statues of

Momotarō at JR Okayama Station, plus he and his sidekicks feature on manhole covers, and the

city’s biggest street is named after him. One of the most popular souvenir treats from Okayama is

also Momotarō’s favoured sweet, kibi-dango, a soft mochi-like dumpling made with millet flour.

8 Getting There & Around

Okayama is the main transport hub for the region. The city is on the JR San-yō

line and shinkansen line, connecting to Osaka in the east and Hiroshima to the

west. Yonago in Tottori Prefecture is served by the limited express Yakumo and

Sunrise Izumo.

Naoshima and the other ‘art islands’ can be accessed from Uno Port, south

of Okayama, and Takamatsu in Kagawa, which can make a more convenient

base for Naoshima than Okayama. There are rail links to Takamatsu, from

where there are also ferries to Shōdo-shima.

Okayama 岡山

%086 / POP 721,175

The jewel of Okayama (岡山) is Kōraku-en, one of Japan’s three most

attractive gardens. Its spring cherry blossoms and autumnal maple trees are

overlooked by the city’s crow-black castle. Together the striking pair make an

enjoyable three-hour stroll and a good reason to step off the shinkansen on the

way to Hiroshima. If you have a few days up your sleeve, make well-connected

Okayama your base for day trips to other attractions in the region and side trips

to the art islands in the Inland Sea.

The city is proud of its connection to Momotarō, the demon-quelling ‘Peach

Boy’ hero of one of Japan’s best-known folk tales. You’ll spot his face

beaming out at you all over town.

Okayama

1 Top Sights

1 Kōraku-en

G2

1 Sights

2 Okayama-jō

G3

4 Sleeping

3 Hibari House

E4

4 Kōraku Hotel

C3

5 Eating

5 Ajitsukasa Nomura

D3

6 Nodo Nobashi

C3

7 Okabe

E3

8 Teppan-Ku-Ya

C2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

9 Izayoi no Tsuki

C2

1 Sights

o Kōraku-en

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 後楽園; %086-272-1148; www.okayama-korakuen.jp; 1-5 Kōraku-en; ¥400, combination ticket with Okayama-jō ¥560; h7.30am-6pm Apr-late Jul & mid-Aug–Sep, to 9.30pm late

Jul–mid-Aug, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar)

Kōraku-en draws the crowds with its reputation as one of the three most

beautiful gardens in Japan. It has expansive lawns broken up by ponds,

teahouses and other Edo-period buildings, including a nō theatre stage; it even

has a small tea plantation and rice field. In spring the groves of plum and

cherry-blossom trees are stunning, in summer white lotuses unfurl, and in

autumn the maple trees are a delight for photographers. There are also seasonal

events (fancy some harvest-moon viewing?).

Built on the orders of daimyō Ikeda Tsunemasa, the garden was completed in

1700 and, despite suffering major damage during floods in the 1930s and air

raids in the 1940s, it remains much as it was in feudal times. It was opened to

the public in 1884.

In summer, from late July to mid-August, the garden and castle are dreamily

lit up and stay open to 9.30pm.

From Okayama Station, take the Higashiyama tram to the Shiroshita stop,

from where it’s about 10 minutes on foot. Bus 18 (¥100, 10 minutes) from the

station will drop you right outside the garden (Kōraku-en-mae stop).

Alternatively, walking the entire way will take about 25 minutes.

Okayama-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 岡山城; http://okayama-kanko.net/ujo; 2-3-1 Marunouchi; ¥300, combination ticket with Kōraku-en ¥560, additional charge for special exhibitions; h9am-5pm, to 9.30pm late Jul–

mid-Aug)

Nicknamed U-jō (烏城; Crow Castle) because of its colour, the striking black

Okayama Castle has an imposing exterior with gilded-fish gargoyles flipping

their tails in the air. You can appreciate its impressive appearance for nix from

either the grounds or across the river. In summer, the castle and nearby Kōraku-

en are lit up and stay open late.

Inside the donjon (main keep), some modern finishes detract from the

16thcentury feel, but there are a few interesting museum displays and views

from the top floor. While it was first completed in 1597 under daimyō Ukita

Hideie, much of the castle was dismantled after the Meiji Restoration and most

of what remained burnt down during WWII air raids. It was rebuilt in 1966.

From Okayama Station, take the Higashi-yama tram to the Shiroshita stop,

from where it’s about 10 minutes on foot. Walking the entire way is also easy

and takes about 25 minutes.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

FARMHOUSE GETAWAY IN HATTŌJI

Head up through the hills past the farms and thatched-roof houses to Hattōji (八塔寺) to stay at the

restored farmhouse Hattōji International Villa (八塔寺国際交流ヴィラ; %086-256-2535;

www.international-villa.or.jp; Kagami Yoshinaga-chō, Bizen-shi; s/d ¥4100/7200, whole house up to 8 people/9-13 people ¥25,700/41,000; na).

Spending a night or two here is an excellent way to get a sense of Japan outside the well-trodden

urban centres. In the farmhouse are four large tatami rooms separated by sliding doors, a shared

bathroom and kitchen, and bicycles that are free to use. In the common area you can burn charcoal

in the open hearth, and near the villa you’ll find hiking tracks, shrines and temples (where it’s

possible to join morning meditation).

Check availability and make reservations online. Payment is cash only. There are a couple of

eateries in the area, but hours are irregular – stock up on groceries in Okayama or Yoshinaga before

you come to Hattōji.

Buses (¥200, 30 minutes, five to six daily Monday to Saturday) run to Hattōji from Yoshinaga

(吉永), which is on the JR San-yō line, accessible by train (¥580, 35 minutes, roughly every hour)

from Okayama. The bus drops you near the villa entrance. See the International Villa Group

website (www.international-villa.or.jp) for the latest schedule.

4 Sleeping

Modern midrange and budget hotels dominate the scene in Okayama. Book

ahead for Fridays and Saturdays. Staying near the train station (and its buses) is

the most convenient. Most options are southeast of the station, but be aware

that staying further than the (lovely and walkable) Nishigawa Greenway means

relying on the tram or long walks. For a more traditional ryokan experience,

consider staying in nearby Kurashiki.

Hibari House

HOSTEL

( MAP ; ヒバリハウス; %086-230-2833; www.hibari-t.com; 2-7-15 Omote-chō; dm ¥3500; W) The Hibari building boasts a gallery, bookstore and coworking space, and the

dorms are suitably attractive in dark wood with cream privacy blinds and USB

ports. There are ample spotless bathrooms, a kitchen and a laundry. Hibari is in

the slick shopping arcade next to Tenmaya bus station; otherwise from

Okayama Station, walk 30 minutes or take the tram to Tamachi.

o Kōraku Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 後楽ホテル; %086-221-7111; www.hotel.kooraku.co.jp; 5-1 Heiwa-chō; s/tw from ¥8275/10,200; naiW)

Kōraku has classy touches such as local museum pieces displayed on each

floor, and pampering extras such as complimentary aroma pots for your room.

Beds are comfortable, and the corner rooms (twin from ¥14,000), with large

curved windows, are especially spacious. Staff speak English, as does the

enthusiastic manager, who you may find mingling with guests in the lobby.

There are good discounts for longer stays, and a buffet breakfast or lunch for

¥1080.

5 Eating & Drinking

Okayama has the best range of eating options in the region. Even under the

station, there are great modern, casual restaurants along the ‘Kitchen Runway’

– look for the signs. The streets southeast of the station, along and off

Honmachi, have plenty of restaurants – including international, casual, budget,

high-end sushi, and bars serving food into the wee hours.

o Okabe

TOFU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おかべ; %086-222-1404; www.tofudokorookabe.com; 1-10-1 Omote-chō; set meals ¥820-870; h11.30am-2pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat)

Squeeze in at the counter at this small, simple lunch joint and watch the team

of women preparing delicious tofu meals as you wait. There are only three

things on the menu; try the okabe teishoku for a set of several types of tofu.

The menu is meat-free but contains fish stock.

The restaurant is on a corner – look for the big illustration of a heavily laden

tofu seller in a straw hat.

Nodo Nobashi

YAKITORI

¥

( MAP ; 串焼き のどのばし; %086-232-5959; www.facebook.com/nodonobashi; 5-23 Heiwa-chō;

dishes ¥180-330; h5.30pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

No, don’t be intimidated. From the riverside street, it looks like it’s bar-room

only at this popular kushiyaki (grilled skewers) joint, but the tables out back,

welcoming staff, English menu and whisky highballs will help you breathe

easily. Chicken skin, shrimp, mushroom – all great on the hot coals.

Ajitsukasa Nomura

TONKATSU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 味司野村; %086-222-2234; 1-10 Heiwa-chō; mains ¥800-1100; h11am-9pm) Step into this quiet bamboo-themed restaurant to try Okayama speciality demi-katsudon – deep-fried pork cutlets with a thick, rich demi-glace sauce, served

on rice. Place your order by purchasing a ticket from the machine inside the

entrance. The machine doesn’t have English, but the separate menu does and

it’s easy to match up the numbered items; button #1 is the classic.

o Teppan-Ku-Ya

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; テッパン クウヤ; %086-224-8880; http://teppan-ku-ya.com; 1-1-17

Nodaya-chō; mains ¥800-1950, set meals ¥2500-5000; h6pm-midnight; a)

An extremely popular fusion restaurant for Japanese classics such as tako-yaki

(grilled octopus dumplings). The best bet is the set six-course meal, which

includes French-leaning flavours in pumpkin soup, grilled prawn, wagyū beef

or salmon steak, and sweet green-tea ice cream. The warm fuss-free

atmosphere, English-speaking staff, wine options and Western-style service

make this a foreigner-friendly, good-value choice.

Izayoi no Tsuki

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いざ酔いの月; %086-222-2422; http://izayoinotuki.gorp.jp; 1-10-2 Ekimae-

chō; h5pm-midnight)

A convivial atmosphere (though it’s fine to sit at the counter solo), walls

decorated with sake labels, and an enormous drinks menu – just what you want

from a local izakaya. There are numerous sakes from Okayama Prefecture and

beers from local microbreweries. Try the Doppo pilsner or a Kibi Doteshita

Bakushu ale.

From Sunday to Thursday, a set sushi menu with all-you-can-drink sake (in

two hours) is available for ¥3000 – challenge accepted. Izayoi is just off the

Sky Mall arcade. Look for the sign written across a yellow moon.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

CYCLING THE KIBI PLAIN

The largely rural Kibi plain west of Okayama is best explored on two wheels, following a mostly

flat cycling route between Bizen-Ichinomiya (備前一宮) and Sōja (総社). Among the highlights

are Kibitsu-jinja (吉備津神社; www.kibitujinja.com; 931 Kibitsu, Kita Ward; h8.30am-4pm) F, a major shrine possibly connected to the Momotarō legend; and the 5th-century Tsukuriyama-kofun (造山古墳; %086-270-5066; h24hr) F, the fourth-biggest kofun (keyhole-shaped burial

mound) in Japan, thought to mark the final resting place of a local king who ruled the Kibi region

when this area was a rival power to the Yamato court.

Gearless bike rental is ¥1000 for the day (¥600 for three hours), available from Uedo Rent-a-

Cycle (レンタサイクルウエド; %086-284-2311; h9am-6pm), on the right at the front of Bizen-

Ichinomiya Station, and Araki Rent-a-Cycle (荒木レンタサイクル; %0866-92-0233; 2 Chome-1-

5 Ekimae; h9am-6pm), at the side of the bus area in front of Sōja Station. It costs ¥200 extra if you

hire from one office and drop it at the other. Uedo Rent-a-Cycle occasionally closes in bad

weather; if no one is around, try asking the guard at the nearby bike parking lot, who may be able

to call and get it opened up for you.

Follow the route map you receive with the bike, and the blue ‘Kibiji District’ road signs along

the course. If you wander off track, locals will be able to set you straight – just ask them for the

Kibiji jitensha dōro (Kibiji bike path). Allow at least three or four hours to cycle the roughly 15km

route, past shrines, temples and rice fields, to give yourself time to wander the sights.

To reach Bizen-Ichinomiya take a local JR Kibi line train from Okayama (¥210, 12 minutes); for

Sōja take either the JR Momotarō line (¥410, 40 minutes) or JR Hakubi line (¥500, 30 minutes)

from Okayama.

8 Information

Momotarō Tourist Information Centre (ももたろう観光センター; %086-222-

2912; www.okayama-kanko.net; h9am-8pm; W) Large office with maps and information on Okayama and the region, as well as coupons for small discounts on the

major sights. The helpful staff speak some English and there’s free wi-fi. It’s in

the basement complex below the station – follow the underground signs.

Tourist Information Counter (観光案内所; h9am-6pm) In the station, by the

entrance to the shinkansen tracks.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Highway buses connect Okayama with major cities across the region. There are

also buses between Okayama Station and Kansai International Airport (four

hours, one way/return ¥4650/7700, seven daily); Ryobi

(www.ryobiholdings.jp/bus/kousoku/en) has timetables and maps for all three bus companies.

Buses to Shin-Okayama Port (¥490, 35 minutes, one or two per hour) leave

from Okayama Station, stopping at Tenmaya bus station (天満屋バスステー

ション; 2-1-1 Omotesando) in the city centre on the way.

Buses leave from the stops outside the west exit of Okayama Station. Free

wi-fi is available at stop 11.

TRAIN

Okayama is on the JR San-yō line and shinkansen line, connecting to Shin

Osaka (¥6020, 45 minutes) in Osaka to the east and Hiroshima (¥6020, 40

minutes) to the west. There are also rail links to Uno (¥1100, 50 minutes) and

Takamatsu in Kagawa (¥2030 , 55 minutes), south of Naoshima, on the JR

Marine Liner, and to Yonago in Tottori Prefecture on the limited express JR

Yakumo (¥5270, 2¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Okayama can be seen on foot or with a couple of short tram rides. The Higashi-

yama line takes you to the main attractions, going from the station’s east exit

all the way up Momotarō-Ōdōri (get out at the last stop on this street for nearly

all of the sights), then turning right. The Seiki-bashi line turns right earlier at

the large roundabout, passing Okayama Central Post Office. Travel within the

central city area costs ¥100, or ¥140 further afield. Okayama is also a good city

for cycling.

JR Eki-Rinkun Rent-a-cycle (レンタサイクル駅リンくん; %086-223-7081;

www.ekiren.com; 1-2 Motomachi; rental per day ¥350; h7am-9.50pm) Bike rental on the east side of Okayama Station.

WORTH A TRIP

BIZEN POTTERY

The Bizen (備前) region has been renowned for its ceramics since the Kamakura period (1185–

1333), and travellers with an interest in pottery will find the sleepy town of Imbe (伊部) and its

kilns a worthwhile side trip from Okayama. The pottery produced here, which tends to be earthy

and subdued, has been prized by dedicated tea-ceremony aficionados for centuries.

Most places of ceramic interest are within easy walking distance of Imbe Station. The Imbe

information counter (%0869-64-1001; www.touyuukai.jp; Imbe; h9am-6pm Wed-Mon), inside the souvenir shop on the left as you exit the platform, has a very good Inbe Walk map in English,

showing the locations of kilns, shops and other sites.

Kibido (黄薇堂; %0869-64-4467; www.bizenyakikibido.com; 714 Imbe; h10am-5pm) F is a kiln and gallery-shop run by the Kimura family, one of the six original pottery-making families in the

area. It’s possible to take a free tour of the traditional step-style noborigama kiln and see the

current generation of Kimura artists at work.

Free tours in English are available – they may be able to accommodate if you just drop in, but

call or email in advance to avoid disappointment. Firings only happen once a year, so tours are

unlikely to show a working kiln. The free information pamphlet has an excellent short explanation

in English of the traditional process of producing Bizen ware – a good place to start a visit to Imbe.

Around Imbe Station, you can eat in a couple of shokudō (casual restaurants) on the busy road,

where unexpectedly good sushi is available. Cute cafes serving snacks are dotted around the Bizen-

ware stores, with one inside the station.

There is one direct train an hour to Imbe from Okayama (¥580, 40 minutes) on the Akō line (赤穂

線), bound for Banshū-Akō (播州赤穂) and Aioi (相生).

Naoshima 直島

%087 / POP 3120

As the location of the Benesse Art Site, the island of Naoshima (直島) has

become one of the region’s biggest tourist attractions, offering a unique

opportunity to see some of Japan’s best contemporary art in gorgeous natural

settings. Museums and numerous outdoor sculptures are situated around the

coast, including Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama, which has become a

symbol of Naoshima.

The Benesse project started in the early ’90s, when the Benesse Corporation

chose Naoshima as the setting for its growing collection of modern art. Once

home to a dwindling population subsisting on the proceeds of a small fishing

industry, Naoshima now has a number of world-class art galleries and

installations, and has attracted creative types from all over Japan to set up

businesses here. The art movement has not stopped at Naoshima’s shores,

either, with museums and art sites popping up on other islands in the Inland

Sea.

Naoshima

1 Top Sights

1 Art House Project

A2

2 Yellow Pumpkin

C3

1 Sights

3 Benesse House Museum

C3

4 Chichū Art Museum

C3

5 Go’o Shrine

B2

Haisha

(see 1)

6 Lee Ufan Museum

C3

7 Minamidera

A3

8 Red Pumpkin

A2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

9 Naoshima Bath “I Love YU”

A1

4 Sleeping

Benesse House

(see 3)

10 Naoshima Backpackers Guesthouse

B2

11 Tsutsuji-sō

D3

5 Eating

12 Apron Cafe

A2

13 Cafe Salon Naka-Oku

A3

Museum Restaurant Issen

(see 3)

8 Information

14 Marine Station Tourist Information Centre

A1

8 Transport

Cafe Ougiya Rent-a-Cycle

(see 14)

1 Sights

o Art House Project

SCULPTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 家プロジェクト; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; Honmura; single/combined

ticket ¥410/1030; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) F

In Honmura, half a dozen traditional buildings have been turned over to

contemporary artists to use as the setting for creative installations, often

incorporating local history. Highlights include Shinro Ohtake’s shack-like

Haisha ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; はいしゃ), its Statue of Liberty sculpture rising up

through the levels of the house; James Turrell’s experiment with light in

Minamidera ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南寺), where you enter in total darkness…and wait; and Hiroshi Sugimoto’s play on the traditional Go’o Shrine ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 護王神社), with a glass staircase and narrow underground ‘Stone Chamber’.

The sites are within walking distance of each other. Take the Naoshima bus

to the Nōkyō-mae stop to start exploring. Buy a ticket at the tourist counter in

the Miyanoura ferry terminal, at Honmura Lounge, or at the tobacco shop near

the bus stop.

o Yellow Pumpkin

SCULPTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南瓜) This yellow pumpkin sculpture, by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, has become

a symbol of Naoshima. It’s perched on the end of a small jetty. Pumpkins are

revered by Kusama for their quiet exuberance. Her style anticipated pop art and

she claims to have influenced Andy Warhol.

The artist has also installed a larger Red Pumpkin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 赤かぼ

ちゃ), which you can walk inside, at Miyanoura Port.

Chichū Art Museum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 地中美術館; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; adult/child ¥2060/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Feb)

A work of art itself, this museum designed by Tadao Ando consists of a series

of cool concrete-walled spaces sitting snugly underground. Lit by natural light,

it provides a remarkable setting for several Monet water-lily paintings, some

monumental sculptures by Walter De Maria and installations by James Turrell.

Outside is the Chichū garden, created in the spirit of Monet’s garden in

Giverny.

During peak periods, a ‘timed ticket’ system may be in place, designating

the time you are able to purchase a ticket and enter.

Benesse House Museum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ベネッセハウスミュージアム; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en;

adult/child ¥1030/free; h8am-9pm)

Award-winning architect Tadao Ando designed this stunning museum and hotel

on the south coast of the island. Among the works here are pieces by Andy

Warhol, David Hockney, Jasper Johns and Japanese artists such as Shinro

Ohtake. Art installations are dotted across the adjacent shoreline and forest,

blending architecture into nature.

Lee Ufan Museum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 李禹煥美術館; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; adult/child ¥1030/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Feb)

Adding to the Benesse Art Site’s suite of museums is yet another design from

the irrepressible Tadao Ando. It houses works by the renowned Korean-born

artist (and philosopher) Lee Ufan, who was a leading figure in the Mono-ha

movement of the 1960s and ’70s. Four rooms hold minimalist pieces that can

be as simple as one brushstroke or a gradient of colour.

2 Activities

o Naoshima Bath “I Love YU”

BATHHOUSE

(直島銭湯, I♥ 湯; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; 2252-2 Higashicho; adult/child ¥650/300; h1-9pm Tue-Sun)

For a unique bathing experience, take a soak at this colourful fusion of

Japanese bathing tradition and contemporary art, designed by Ōtake Shinrō,

where there really is an elephant in the room. It’s a couple of minutes’ walk

inland from Miyanoura Port. Look for the building with the palm trees out

front.

The name is a play on words – yū refers to hot water in Japanese.

z Festivals & Events

Setouchi Triennale

ART

(瀬戸内国際芸術祭; Setouchi International Art Festival; http://setouchi-artfest.jp)

This festival of art, music, drama and dance comes around every three years

and has a packed calendar of events occurring on multiple Inland Sea islands,

many on Naoshima and Teshima. Previous schedules have been spread across

three seasons (spring, summer and autumn.)

The next edition will be held in 2022.

4 Sleeping

The accommodation scene is dominated by privately run minshuku

(guesthouses). Not a lot of English is spoken, but locals are becoming

increasingly used to foreign guests. Benesse House is the only hotel option.

Alternatively, stay in Okayama or Uno Port on the mainland, or Takamatsu in

Shikoku, and visit on a day trip. Rates increase at most places during high

season. Staying near well-connected Miyanoura Port is the most convenient.

o Tsutsuji-sō

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; つつじ荘; %087-892-2838; www.tsutsujiso.com; 352−1 Naoshima-chō;

tents/cottages per person from ¥3780/4760; n)

Perfectly placed on the beachfront, not far from the Benesse Art Site area, is

this encampment of Mongolian-style pao (yurt) tents. Cosy tents sleep up to

four, have a small fridge and heater (but no air-con), and shared bathrooms.

The tent-averse can opt instead for one of the caravans or cottages. Meals are

available if reserved in advance. Cash only.

Naoshima Backpackers Guesthouse

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080-9130-2976; www.naoshima-backpackers-guesthouse.com; 845-9

Naoshima-chō; dm ¥3000; naW)

The dorms here may just be wooden capsules and there is only one shower, but

it’s cheap, with free bike use and an excellent location near Honmura Port and

the sights. Prior reservations only, as they might not hear the doorbell! From

the Honmura local bus stop, head straight towards the water and look for a

white sign.

Uno Port Inn

RYOKAN

¥¥

(%0863-21-2729; www.unoportinn.com; 1-4-4 Chikko, Tamano; s/d from ¥6900/9900; aW)

You’ll find this cosy ryokan, with 12 rooms mixing futons or regular beds,

between Uno Station and Uno Port on the mainland. Small spaces mean some

private bathrooms are across the hall. The sleepy port area has few restaurants,

but the ryokan’s own cafe is good. Staff speak English, and it makes a

convenient base to explore both Naoshima and Teshima.

o Benesse House

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %087-892-3223; www.benesse-artsite.jp; tw/ste from ¥32,000/59,000; pnaiW) A stay at this unique Ando-designed hotel-museum is a treat for art and

architecture enthusiasts. Accommodation is in four different wings – Museum,

Oval, Park and Beach – each with a clean, modern, clutter- and TV-free design,

and decor featuring artworks from the Benesse collection. Reserve well in

advance.

A monorail takes guests up to the hilltop Oval wing (the most expensive of

the options), where rooms are arranged around a pool of water open to the sky,

and there are stunning views from the grassed rooftop. Rooms in Oval are

spacious (though the bathrooms are standard-issue) and large windows make

the most of the views; you may not want to come back down once you’re up

here. The Beach wing is a newer building by the sea, from where you can see

the Yellow Pumpkin sculpture. Alternatively, stick close to the art with a stay in

the Museum lodgings.

Children under seven years old aren’t permitted in the Oval and Museum

wings. A guest-only shuttle bus runs between Miyanoura Port, the island’s

major art sites and the hotel.

5 Eating

In the Art House Project area in Honmura there are a few cafes, restaurants and

bars serving food. Near Miyanoura Port, there are later-opening restaurants,

plus a small supermarket and the only convenience store. Not many places

open in the evenings, or at all on Mondays, and hours can be irregular.

o Cafe Salon Naka-Oku

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カフェサロン中奥; %087-892-3887; www.naka-oku.com; Honmura; set

lunch ¥650-800, dishes ¥480-980; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Wed-Mon; W)

Up on a small hill at the rear of a farming plot, Naka-Oku is a good option in

the Honmura area, and one of only a couple of places open in the evenings

here. It’s all wood-beamed warmth and cosiness, with homey specialities such

as omuraisu (omelette filled with fried rice) at lunchtime and small dishes with

drinks in the evening.

This is one of the few restaurants in the area open on Mondays.

Apron Cafe

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %087-892-3048; www.fb.me/aproncafe.naoshima; 777 Honmura; set meals

¥1380-1580; h11am-4pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

You’re here for art, so why not eat in a gallery-like space with polished timber,

designer furniture, a faux-grass picnic area and even an in-house zine and

giftware. The artfully arranged lunches function like tasting plates of quiche,

tempura fish, samosas and Okayama black rice. Cranberry and coconut scones

with local sea-salt butter are also attractive.

o Museum Restaurant Issen

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ミュージアムレストラン日本料理一扇; %087-892-3223;

www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/stay; breakfast ¥2613, lunch sets ¥2000-2900, dinner sets ¥7722-9504; h7.30-9.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9.45pm)

The artfully displayed kaiseki dinners at this contrastingly austere restaurant in

Benesse House Museum’s basement (though with Andy Warhol works on the

wall) are almost too pretty to eat. Courses feature Setouchi seafood, but there is

a veg-dominated option (request a couple of days ahead) and the menu changes

with the seasons. Breakfast and lunch are also served. Reservations are highly

recommended.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

BEYOND NAOSHIMA: MORE ARTY ISLANDS OF THE INLAND

SEA

Naoshima and Teshima draw the largest art-loving crowds, leaving Inujima, Megijima and Ogijima

for quieter exploration.

The drawcard on Inujima (犬島) is the excellent Inujima Seirensho Art Museum (犬島精錬

所美術館; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; Inujima; incl Inujima Art House Project ¥2060; h10am-4.30pm Wed-Mon, closed Wed & Thu Dec-Feb), a copper refinery converted into an eco-building

displaying Yukinori Yanagi’s surreal take on environmental issues. This is more an interactive

experience than a traditional gallery – you enter through a dark maze of mirrors with the burning

sun at its end and continue past floating furniture. Inujima also boasts smaller art sites (included in

the museum ticket price) converted from Japanese houses, as well as cute little cafes.

Is Megijima (女木島) the mythical Onigi-shima, the ‘Ogre’s Island’ where legendary Momotarō

went to fight? Head up to the caves to see the comically colourful ogre statues and you might

become a believer – or at least the kids will, while you appreciate the panoramic views. You can

also explore the beach and Oni Cafe & Gallery, or Mecon, a work by Shinro Ohtake (of Naoshima

Bath “I Love YU” fame) that places neon-coloured frameworks around actual school grounds to

express the hope that locals remain on the island.

Tiny Ogijima (男木島) is only 2km long and has even less flat ground among the green

mountaintops, but this makes it an interesting ‘museum without walls’. The narrow roads, winding

up in a maze through the sleepy village, suddenly open onto outdoor art installations. Look for a

‘wallalley’ – colourful paintings made from discarded lumber and scrapped vessels.

Ferries run between Inujima and Ieura Port (¥1230, 25 minutes, two daily) on Teshima

(normally continuing to/from Miyanoura Port), or Hoden Port (¥300, 10 minutes, six to eight daily)

on the mainland. A bus from Okayama Station (¥750, one hour, Saturday and Sunday only, three

daily during Setouchi Triennale) terminates a two-minute walk from Hoden Port.

A ferry runs six times a day from Takamatsu, calling first at Megijima (¥370, 20 minutes) then

Ogijima (¥510, 40 minutes). Warning: the last two ferries to Ogijima give you little or no time to

catch the last return ferry.

8 Information

LEFT LUGGAGE

For day trippers, there are some luggage lockers at Miyanoura Port, and

luggage can also be left at the Honmura Lounge & Archive.

MONEY

The ATMs at the post offices in Miyanoura and Honmura take international

cards, as does the 7-Eleven near Miyanoura Port. Ask at the tourist office for

directions.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Honmura Lounge & Archive (%087-840-8273; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Tourist

information next to Honmura Port, with a rest area and left-luggage service.

Tickets for the Art House Project can be purchased here.

Marine Station Tourist Information Centre ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; %087-892-2299;

www.naoshima.net; h8.30am-6pm) At Miyanoura Port. Has a comprehensive bilingual

map of the island (also downloadable from the website), a walking map and a

full list of accommodation options. Note that staff don’t make accommodation

reservations. Tickets for the Art House Project can also be purchased here.

8 Getting There & Away

Naoshima can be visited on a day trip from Okayama or Takamatsu and it

makes a good stopover if you’re travelling between Honshū and Shikoku.

Extra-large lockers or left-luggage services are available at the ports.

From Okayama, take the JR Uno line to Uno (¥580, one hour); this usually

involves a quick change of trains at Chayamachi, crossing the same platform.

Ferries go to Naoshima’s main Miyanoura Port from the port near Uno

Station (¥290, 15 to 20 minutes, hourly). There are also ferries from Uno to the

island’s Honmura Port (¥290, 20 minutes, five daily). Heading back to

Okayama at night, you may find trains from Uno have finished or are two

hours away, in which case it can be better to take a bus to Okayama Station

(¥650, one hour, one to two hourly) from outside Uno Station at bus stop 1.

From March to November daily (except Tuesdays) high-speed boats connect

Miyanoura Port to to the port on tiny Inujima island (¥1850, 40 to 55 minutes,

three daily), with most services stopping off first at Ieura Port on Teshima

(¥620, about 30 minutes, two daily). A daily (except Tuesdays) high-speed

boat also connects Honmura Port to Ieura Port (¥620, 20 minutes) from April

to November at 11.15am.

Takamatsu is connected to Miyanoura Port by standard ferry (¥520, 50

minutes, five daily) and high-speed boat (¥1220, 25 minutes, five daily). There

is also one daily (except Tuesdays) high-speed boat to Honmura Port (¥1220,

30 minutes) at 10.45am from April to November.

Ferry route maps and the latest timetables can be found on the Benesse Art

Site website (www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/access) or at the tourist offices in Okayama and Takamatsu.

8 Getting Around

Bicycle or the town bus are the best options for getting around Naoshima,

though it’s possible on foot if you have time; for example, it’s just over 2km

from Miyanoura Port to Honmura and the Art House Project area. There is one

taxi (%Japanese only 087-882-2424; h8.30am-10pm) on Naoshima, taking up to nine

passengers – this has to be reserved in advance of coming to the island.

BICYCLE

Naoshima is great for cycling and there are a few rental places around

Miyanoura Port. Cafe Ougiya Rent-a-Cycle ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; %090-3189-0471;

www.ougiya-naoshima.jp; bike per day ¥300-2000; h9am-6pm) is inside the Marine Station at the port. A few electric bikes (¥1000 per day) and scooters (¥1500 per day) are

also available. Prices are similar at the other rental shops nearby.

BUS

Naoshima ‘town bus’ minibuses run between Miyanoura, Honmura, and the

Benesse Art Site area (Tsutsuji-sō campground stop) in the south once or twice

an hour – expect queues during the Setouchi Triennale festival. It costs ¥100

per ride (no change given). From Tsutsuji-sō, there’s a free Benesse shuttle,

stopping at all the Benesse Art Site museums. In busy seasons buses can fill up

quickly, especially towards the end of the day, when people are returning to the

port to catch ferries. Be sure to check the timetables and allow enough buffer

time.

Teshima 豊島

Teshima (豊島), a small hilly island between Naoshima and Shōdo-shima,

holds its own with a number of interesting art sites, especially its imposing

spacecraft-like Teshima Art Museum squatting among the greenery. You can

spot the larger sibling islands across the sea from lofty vantage points as you

meander over the slopes, winding up past lemon trees and old Japanese houses.

1 Sights

o Teshima Art Museum

MUSEUM

(豊島美術館; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; ¥1540; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb, closed Wed & Thu Dec-Feb)

Teshima’s art ‘museum’ impresses for its architecture – a monumental concrete

shell, forming a low teardrop-shaped dome on the hillside, designed by Tokyo-

based architect Ryue Nishizawa. Visitors wander through the peaceful,

contemplative space, where cutouts in the shell frame snapshots of blue sky,

clouds, or the green of the surrounding hills. Look down to see small globules

of water being rolled about the floor on the breeze, in an exhibit created by

Hiroshima-born artist Rei Naito.

Teshima Yokoo House

GALLERY

(豊島横尾館; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; ¥510; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb, closed Wed & Thu Dec-Feb)

Close to Ieura Port, an old house has been converted into exhibition spaces,

with a colourful take on a traditional Japanese rock garden outside (which

locals helped create). Don’t miss stepping inside the tower ‘waterfall’

installation, which is lined with thousands of postcards of waterfalls and seems

to go on forever below your feet. Even the giddying, all-chrome bathrooms are

worth checking out.

Les Archives du Cœur

MUSEUM

(心臓音のアーカイブ; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en; adult/child ¥510/free; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb, closed Wed & Thu Dec-Feb)

For an oddly fascinating and unique museum experience, visit this ‘heartbeat

archive’ on a small bay near the Karato Port area. There are tens of thousands

of registered heartbeats from around the world, and you can listen to them

played on a loop in surround sound in the very dark ‘heart room’. While you’re

here, why not register and record your own heartbeat and get a keepsake CD

(¥1540)?

4 Sleeping & Eating

Teshima can be visited as a day trip, but, if you want to soak up the island’s

natural charms, there are some minshuku and ryokan, although most are small

homes with little English spoken. Staff at the tourist information office near the

Ieura ferry terminal can help book accommodation.

Cafes dotted around the island offer teishoku (set-menu) lunches, and the

Teshima Art Museum cafe serves simple olive rice. Sun-rich Teshima is known

for its lemons, which you will find garnishing dishes or dried to take away as a

souvenir.

Takamatsu-ya

RYOKAN

¥

(古宿 たかまつ屋; %080-5275-8550; www.takamatsu-ya.jp; s/d/tr with shared bathroom

¥6000/10,000/12,000; pnW)

This guesthouse has witnessed ample history as a sanatorium and ryokan for

infants or the down and out. Not that you would know it now, looking at the

seven immaculate tatami rooms. The English-speaking staff, breakfast (¥500)

among the lemon trees, and location just a short walk from the Ieura ferry

terminal make it as welcoming as ever.

8 Information

Pick up maps and information (some English spoken) at the tourist office near

the Ieura ferry terminal.

8 Getting There & Away

Eight ferries a day travel from Uno Port on the mainland to Ieura Port (¥770,

25 to 40 minutes), with six continuing around to Karato Port (¥1030, 40 to 60

minutes); these ferries also continue to the island of Shōdo-shima. From

Takamatsu, three to six ferries go to Ieura daily (¥1330, 35 to 50 minutes),

some also stopping at Honmura on Naoshima. Two ferries a day go from

Naoshima’s Miyanoura Port to Ieura (¥620, 35 minutes; not every day in low

season), continuing on to the island of Inujima.

Current timetables are available at www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/access.

8 Getting Around

Cycling on the island is highly recommended for getting around; travelling by

bus and walking is easier, but more time-consuming. Bikes can be hired at the

Ieura Port area for ¥500 per day; electric-assist bikes (¥1000 per four hours,

¥100 per additional hour) are also available (but go quickly during the Setouchi

Triennale festival) and are a good idea if you’re cycling across the hilly island

to Karato. A shuttle bus connecting Ieura and Karato (¥200, 17 minutes) runs

roughly hourly, with additional buses during the Triennale.

Shōdo-shima 小豆島

%0879 / POP 31,200

Famed for its olive groves and as the setting of the classic film Nijūshi-no-

hitomi (Twenty-Four Eyes; telling the story of a village schoolteacher and her

young charges), Shōdo-shima (小豆島) makes an enjoyable day trip or

overnight escape from big-city Japan. It is mainly appealing for its

mountainous landscape, scenic coastal roads and Inland Sea vistas, but also has

a smattering of sights.

Tonoshō is the main town and port, and where you can see ‘the world’s

narrowest navigable strait’, Dobuchi Strait, which runs through the centre of

town. The island is popular during summer and when the autumn leaves are at

their prettiest in October and November. Come out of season and you’ll find a

sleepy isle with very few other travellers.

Shōdo-shima

1 Top Sights

1 Marukin Soy Sauce Historical Museum

C2

1 Sights

2 Angel Road

A2

3 Nakayama Rice Fields

B2

4 Shōdo-shima Olive Park

C2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

5 Kanka Gorge & Ropeway

C2

Sun Olive Onsen

(see 4)

4 Sleeping

6 Minshuku Maruse

A2

7 Shōdo-shima Olive Youth Hostel

C2

8 Information

Tourist Information Booth

(see 6)

8 Transport

Orix Rent-a-Car

(see 6)

1 Sights & Activities

o Marukin Soy Sauce Historical Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; マルキン醤油記念館; %0879-82-0047; http://moritakk.com/know_enjoy/shoyukan;

¥210; h9am-4pm)

Shōdo-shima was famous for its soybeans long before olives arrived, and

several old soy-sauce companies are still in business here. Marukin has a small

museum with displays of the sauce-making process, old implements, photos

and interesting facts you never knew about the ubiquitous brown stuff. There

are good English explanations, and you can try the surprisingly tasty soy-

sauce-flavoured ice cream.

It’s on the main road between Kusakabe and Sakate Ports.

Nakayama Rice Fields

LANDMARK

( MAP ; 中山千枚田, Nakayama Senmaida; 1486 Nakayama; h24hr) F

About 4km inland from the Ikeda ferry terminal are Nakayama’s ‘thousand rice

fields’. The terraces are pretty in any season, but especially picturesque after

rice planting in late April or early May, when the water-filled fields become a

hillside of mirrors.

o Kanka Gorge & Ropeway

OUTDOORS

( MAP ; 寒霞渓; www.kankakei.co.jp; ropeway one way/return ¥980/1760; hropeway 8.30am-5pm)

The cable car (寒霞渓ロープウエイ) is the main attraction at Kanka-kei in the

central mountains, making a spectacular trip through the gorge – particularly

impressive when the foliage is ablaze with autumn colours (drawing scores of

leaf peepers). Hikers can also take in the breathtaking views of the Inland Sea

from the area around the upper cable-car station without taking the ride.

Keen walkers can climb between the lower and upper cable-car stations via

the Omote 12 Views (表12景; 2.3km) and Ura Eight Views (裏8景; 1.8km)

tracks. There are other scenic walks from the upper station, including a hike to

the eastern peak of Hoshigajō-yama (星ヶ城東峰; 817m).

On weekends, and on weekdays during peak periods, there are four buses a

day from Kusakabe Port to the lower cable-car station (紅雲亭; Kōuntei), with

additional services during the autumn leaf-viewing season. There are no buses

during winter.

Sun Olive Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; サン・オリーブ温泉; 1941-1 Nishimura-misaki; ¥700; hnoon-9.45pm Thu-Tue)

Enjoy fabulous views of the ‘Japanese Aegean’ from a variety of herbal baths.

Located within Shōdoshima Olive Park.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Shōdo-shima has a variety of hotels, particularly along the road running

straight back from the waterfront in Tonoshō, which makes a good base. There

are only a handful of hostels and guesthouses on the island. Accommodation

further away from the port caters to visitors who want an escape and are not

planning on moving about much.

Given its size, eating out on Shōdoshima does not present the great number

of options you might expect. Head to the road running straight back from the

waterfront in Tonoshō for simple cafes and some izakaya and ramen joints.

Resorts and large hotels usually include meals and have restaurants for

nonguests.

Shōdo-shima Olive Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 小豆島オリーブユースホステル; %0879-82-6161; www.jyh.gr.jp/shoudo; 1072

Nishimura, Uchinomi-chō; dm ¥3400, d tatami without bathroom ¥6800; nW)

This pleasant hostel near the waterfront has bunk-bed dorms and tatami rooms.

Meals, bike rental and laundry are available. Buses stop in front of the hostel

(at the Shōdoshimi Orību-Yūsu-mae stop) or it’s about a 20-minute walk from

Kusakabe Port.

Minshuku Maruse

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP ; 民宿マルセ; %0879-62-2385; www.new-port.biz/maruse/1.htm; r per person from ¥3700;

naiW)

This welcoming, neatly kept place next to Tonoshō’s post office is a short walk

from the ferry terminal. It has Japanese-style rooms with shared bathrooms.

Meals are available and feature local seafood.

8 Information

Check www.town.shodoshima.lg.jp for local information.

Tourist Information Booth ( MAP ; %0802-853-5857; h8am-6pm) Inside the Tonoshō

ferry terminal with English-speaking staff.

8 Getting There & Away

There are several ferry routes to and from Shōdo-shima’s ports.

If you’re going to Shōdo-shima from Okayama, pick up a Kamome bus

kippu (one way ¥1300), a discounted combination ticket covering the bus

(¥490, 35 minutes, one or two per hour) from Okayama Station to Shin-

Okayama Port plus the ferry (¥1050) to Shōdo-shima’s Tonoshō Port. They’re

sold at the booth of the bus terminal at Okayama Station, and at the Tonoshō

Port ticket desk.

FERRIES TO SHŌDO-SHIMA

ORIGIN DESTINATION FARE

DURATION FREQUENCY (PER

(¥)

DAY)

ORIGIN DESTINATION FARE

DURATION FREQUENCY (PER

(¥)

DAY)

Himeji

Fukuda

1520

1hr 40min

7

Shin-

Tonoshō

1050

70min

13

Okayama

Takamatsu

Tonoshō (regular)

690

1hr

15

Takamatsu

Tonoshō (high speed)

1170

30min

16

Takamatsu

Ikeda

690

1hr

8

Takamatsu

Kusakabe (regular)

690

1hr

5

Takamatsu

Kusakabe (high speed) 1170

45min

16

Uno

Tonoshō (via Teshima) 1230

1½hr

6

8 Getting Around

The most convenient way to see the island is by car and it’s definitely worth

hiring one for the day to take in all the scenic routes. Buses do not go

everywhere and services are infrequent.

BUS

Shōdo-shima Olive Bus (小豆島オリーブバス; www.shodoshima-olive-

bus.com) operates services around the island. The most frequent bus, at one or

two per hour, runs between Tonoshō and Kusakabe Ports, passing Ikeda and

Olive Park. Some continue on to Sakate Port, passing the Marukin Soy Sauce

Historical Museum; some head north to Fukuda Port. There are infrequent

services along the north coast, inland to Nakayama, and to Tanoura. A

one-/two-day pass is ¥1000/1500, though if you’re only taking the bus a couple

of times it’s cheaper to pay the individual fares (¥150 to ¥300) as you go.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

There are a handful of car-rental places. Note you can bring a car on some

ferries, but it can cost more than hiring one on the island.

Orix Rent-a-Car ( MAP ; オリックスレンタカー小豆島; %0879-62-4669;

http://car.orix.co.jp; 6hr from ¥4860; h8.30am-6pm) Has a basic touring map in English. It’s a two-minute walk along the road heading right out of the Tonoshō ferry

terminal.

Kurashiki 倉敷

%086 / POP 481,935

The main attraction in Kurashiki (倉敷) is its atmospheric Bikan quarter (美

観地区), an area of historic buildings along an old willow-edged canal. A

picturesque group of black-and-white warehouses has been converted into

museums, and laneways are lined with old wooden houses and shops. By

night, lamplight reflecting off the canal creates a cinematic mood in the

small area.

In the feudal era, the warehouses here were used to store rice brought by

boat from the surrounding countryside. Later, the town became an important

textile centre, under the Kurabō Textile Company. Owner Ōhara

Magosaburō built up a collection of European art and opened the Ōhara

Museum of Art in 1930, which today draws many Japanese tourists.

Kurashiki

1 Top Sights

1 Ōhara Museum of Art

C3

2 Ōhashi House

B2

1 Sights

3 Achi-jinja

D2

4 Ivy Square

D3

4 Sleeping

5 Cuore Kurashiki

C3

6 Hostel KAG

A1

7 Ryokan Kurashiki

C3

5 Eating

8 Mamakari-tei

C3

9 Takadaya

C3

1 Sights

o Ōhara Museum of Art

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大原美術館; www.ohara.or.jp; 1-1-15 Chūō; adult/child ¥1300/500;

h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This is Kurashiki’s premier museum, housing the predominantly Western art

collection amassed by local textile magnate Ōhara Magosaburō (1880–

1943), with the help of artist Kojima Torajirō (1881–1929). The varied

assemblage of paintings, prints and sculpture features works by Picasso,

Cézanne, El Greco and Matisse, and one of Monet’s water-lilies paintings

(said to have been bought from the man himself, when Torajirō visited his

home in 1920).

While no rival to the major galleries of Europe, it’s an interesting

collection and one of the town’s biggest attractions for Japanese tourists. The

valid-all-day ticket also gets you into the museum’s Craft & Asiatic Art

Gallery, the contemporary Japanese collection housed in an annexe behind

the main building.

o Ōhashi House

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大橋家住宅; www.ohashi-ke.com; 3-21-31 Achi; adult/child ¥550/350; h9am-5pm)

Built in 1793, this beautifully restored wooden house belonged to one of

Kurashiki’s richest families. It was built at a time when prosperous

merchants were beginning to claim privileges that had previously been the

preserve of the samurai.

4 Sleeping

Kurashiki is a good place to spend a night in a ryokan, soaking up the old-

world atmosphere. There is an increasing number of stylish hostels in and

around the historic area, as well as plenty of Western-style business hotels

around the station and along Chūō-dōri.

o Hostel KAG

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; %086-441-8817; www.hostel-kag.jp; 3-1-2 Achi; dm/s/tw ¥2500/5000/8000; aiW) The black facade suggests you’ve arrived at an art-house cinema, but this is

KAG, shaking things up in the Kurashiki hostel scene by offering designer

digs at budget prices. Roomy dorm beds have privacy curtains, and the

cafe/bar/live music/exhibition space downstairs is one of the best places to

hang out in town, though it’s noisy until midnight.

Cuore Kurashiki

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; クオーレ倉敷; %086-486-3443; www.bs-cuore.com; 1-9-4 Chūō;

dm/s/tw ¥3780/4860/8100; nW)

Artistic and quirky touches in the rooms and common areas, which were

decorated by staff, and a large lounge-cafe-bar area on the ground floor

make this a great budget option. The cubbyhole-style dorm beds are a cosy

change from standard bunks, and the ‘VIP’ private room has a good-sized

shower. The cafe opens to midnight, later than most in the area.

o Ryokan Kurashiki

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館くらしき; %086-422-0730; www.ryokankurashiki.jp; 4-1

Honmachi; s/d incl 2 meals from ¥48,300/73,600; pnaW)

By the canal in the heart of the historic district, this is the best ryokan in

town, incorporating several beautifully restored Edo-period buildings. The

spacious suites all have tatami lounge areas with attached twin-bed rooms

and bathrooms. Dinner is a multicourse kaiseki affair, featuring Inland Sea

delicacies – also available to nonguests (from ¥8000). Some English is

spoken.

5 Eating

Within the historic area there are numerous eateries and you’ll pay a little

more for the atmosphere that goes with your food. You’ll find cheaper,

quick-eats options along Chūō-dōri and in the arcades running from the

station.

Takadaya

BARBECUE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高田屋; %0120-810-190; 11−36 Honmachi; skewers ¥120-420, set menu

¥1100-2110; h5-10pm Tue-Sun)

This bar is in perfect balance: it manages to have loads of old-Japan charm,

while maintaining a cocktail list that features plum wine and shōchū (strong

distilled alcohol). Plus its small space isn’t intimidating for solo diners,

thanks to the Englishspeaking staff and English menu. Delicious grilled

skewers include shiso-maki (Japanese basil rolled around chicken) and gyū-

kushi (beef sirloin).

Takadaya is on a corner with a red lantern.

o Mamakari-tei

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ままかり亭; %086-421-3430; www.hamayoshikurashiki.jp; 3-12

Honmachi; dishes ¥800-1200; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sun)

This traditional eatery, in a 200-year-old warehouse with chunky beams and

long wooden tables, is famed for mamakari, the sardine-like local speciality.

The tasty fish is supposed to induce bouts of uncontrollable feasting, so that

people are obliged to kari (borrow) more mama (rice) from their neighbours

to carry on their binge.

There are sets at lunch (from ¥1500) and kaiseki-style course options

(¥4000 to ¥5000; reservations recommended) available at dinner, as well as

an à la carte menu.

8 Information

MONEY

The Bikan historical area lacks 24-hour ATMs. The nearest machines

accepting foreign cards are at the train station and nearby in the 7-Eleven on

Chūō-dōri.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Kurashiki Eki-mae Tourist Information Office (倉敷駅前観光案内所;

%086-424-1220; 2nd fl, Kurashiki City Plaza, 1-7-2 Achi; h9am-6pm; W) Just out of the

station on the second level and to the right.

Kurashikikan Tourist Information (倉敷館観光案内所; %086-422-0542;

www.kurashiki-tabi.jp; 1-4-8 Chūō; h9am-6pm; W) The main tourist centre, in the Bikan quarter, with multilingual staff.

8 Getting There & Around

Kurashiki is on the JR San-yō main line just west of Okayama (¥320, 17

minutes). Shin-Kurashiki, on the shinkansen line, is two stops from

Kurashiki Station (¥200, nine minutes).

Kurashiki is easily explored on foot. It’s possible to get around by bike,

though this may end up being more of a nuisance than a convenience, as the

lanes are narrow and often crowded.

Kasaoka Islands 笠岡諸島

Located between Kurashiki and Fukuyama, the port of Kasaoka (笠岡市) is

the jumpingoff point for six small islands connected to the mainland only by

boat. In particular, the islands of Shiraishi-jima and Manabe-shima are worth

visiting to enjoy the slower pace of life as it used to be lived all over the

Inland Sea.

4 Sleeping & Eating

The two sleeping options on Manabe-shima are a ryokan and a guesthouse

with futons, while Shiraishi-jima offers a villa and a family-run minshuku. It

is worth organising your visit before you arrive, especially if you do not

speak Japanese. Tourism offices can help book accommodation, and the

owners of Shiraishi-jima’s Moooo! Bar are very knowledgeable.

You will find the local speciality, Kasaoka ramen , sold in small restaurants

on the islands. Rather than pork, pieces of chicken adorn the noodles and

broth, which is also chicken based. Seafood is also big in these parts.

8 Getting There & Around

Kasaoka is 45 minutes west of Okayama (¥760) and 30 minutes west of

Kurashiki (¥500) on the JR San-yō line. From the station, it’s a sevenminute

stroll down to the port for boats to Shiraishi-jima and on to Manabe-shima.

Eight Sanyō Kisen (三洋汽船; %0865-62-2866; www.en.sanyo-kisen.jp) ferries run a day to Shiraishi-jima, continuing on to Manabe-shima. There are four

regular services (Shiraishi-jima ¥660, 35 minutes; Manabe-shima ¥1020, 72

minutes) and four high-speed services (Shiraishi-jima ¥1150, 22 minutes;

Manabe-shima ¥1760, 45 minutes). Baggage charge: ¥210–230.

A water taxi is a convenient alternative option if heading to Santora

ryokan on Manabe-shima, especially for groups, as these can take you from

Kasaoka direct to the pier at the ryokan (saving you the 10-minute walk

from Honura Port). Water taxis are ¥10,000 for up to 10 people – Santora

can help with details.

Clear timetable and fare information in English is on the official Kasaoka

Islands website, www.kasaoka-kankou.jp.

Manabe-shima 真鍋島

%0865 / POP 325

Manabe-shima (真鍋島) is home to more cats than people, and its one small

town is an atmospheric maze of old wooden houses, with a solitary village

shop that has been in business since the Meiji period, and an old-fashioned

school. As with everywhere in this part of Japan, Kōbō Daishi got here first

– the great man spent time at the Enpukuji (円福寺) temple. More recently,

the island and all its characters have been wonderfully captured in Florent

Chavouet’s illustrated book Manabé Shima. The locals are sure to show you

a copy (and point themselves out in it).

There are few places to eat out on the island, most with irregular hours.

The helpful staff at the Honura Port ferry terminal office can give you some

tips, such as the seafood restaurants near there.

Inn the Camp

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(www.manabeshima.info; 4073 Kabajima, Manabe-shima; dm ¥3500-4500; paW)

Futons are sectioned off with tarps for privacy in this clean, modern addition

to Manabe-shima, just 50m from Honura Port. The friendly couple who run

the converted wooden house speak enough English to help guide you, which

is useful on such a quiet island, and run a nearby cafe.

o Santora

RYOKAN

¥¥

(島宿三虎; %0865-68-3515; www.facebook.com/santora310ra; 2224 Manabe-shima; r per person

incl 2 meals from ¥10,800; nW) F

At this waterfront ryokan, you can laze about in the outdoor saltwater bath

while watching boats sail by. The rooms are spacious, the shared indoor

bathroom has sea views, and the meals feature local seafood and veggies

grown by the friendly owners (no English spoken). There is a range of rooms

and plans. It’s a 10-minute walk from Honura Port.

For something special, go for one of the hanare (separate) cabins (from

¥16,200 per person for two people with meals, with discounts for more

people), which have private bathrooms and huge balconies.

Shiraishi-jima 白石島

%0865 / POP 525

Sleepy Shiraishi-jima (白石島) is popular in the summer for its beaches and

there are some good walking paths. Go-everywhere Buddhist saint Kōbō

Daishi stopped off here on his way back from China in 806; the temple

associated with him, Kairyū-ji (開龍寺; %0865-68-3014; 855 Shiraishi-jima; h24hr) F,

incorporates a trail of small shrines leading to a huge boulder on top of the

hill.

The Moooo! Bar rents out windsurfing boards and sea kayaks (¥1000 per

hour).

There are a handful of eateries on the island, though hours are irregular

outside of summer. If you’re staying at the self-catering villa, make sure you

bring groceries along with you.

Shiraishi Island International Villa

RENTAL HOUSE

¥¥

(%086-256-2535; www.international-villa.or.jp; 317 Shiraishi-jima; r per person ¥3500-4000; pW) This great-value villa is a large house atop a hill, with spacious living areas

and kitchen, and an outdoor deck with views of the sea. There are four twin

bedrooms, one Japanese room, and amenities are shared. It’s particularly

good for groups or families, though single occupancy is possible.

Reservations can be made via the website or email (in English).

Moooo! Bar

BAR

(www.moooobar.com; 439 Shiraishi-jima; hMon-Sun Jul & Aug, Sun Jun & Sep; W)

A popular bar on the beach, run by resident expat Amy Chavez, which only

operates during summer.

Tomo-no-ura 鞆の浦

%084 / POP 5000

Tomo-no-ura (鞆の浦) is a sleepy port town with narrow cobbled streets that

retain much of the flavour of its Edo-period heyday. Perfectly situated in the

middle of the Inland Sea coast, the town flourished for centuries as a stopoff

for boats travelling between western Japan and the capital, until the arrival

of steam put an end to Tomo-no-ura’s glory days.

Today, fishing boats quietly bob on the water at the old harbour, while a

dozen or so temples, some tucked within residential streets, allow quiet

meandering as you head up the hillside to views of the Inland Sea. It all

makes for a good few hours of strolling.

For film buffs: Tomo-no-ura was the setting for some scenes in The

Wolverine (2013). It also provided inspiration for renowned Studio Ghibli

director Miyazaki Hayao, who spent two months here while developing

Ponyo ( Gake no ue no Ponyo; 2008).

1 Sights

o Sensui-jima

ISLAND

(仙酔島)

The island of Sensui-jima is just five minutes across the water from Tomo-

no-ura town, though vastly different for its rugged natural beauty, as there

are no residential homes. There’s a walking path that hugs the coast, passing

interesting volcanic rock formations, and offers lovely sunset views across

the water. After a stroll or swim at the clear-water beach, drop into

Kokuminshukusha Sensui-jima, where nonguests can soak in a range of

baths for ¥540 (from 10am to 9pm).

The ferry that shuttles passengers across to the island is modelled on the

Edo-era steamboat Iroha Maru. There are no English signs on the island, so

check with the tourist office in Tomo-no-ura town if you have specific

questions on where to go. The ferry (return ¥240) runs to the island every 20

minutes (7.10am to 9.35pm).

o Ōta Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

(太田家住宅; %084-982-3553; 842 Tomochō-tomo; ¥400; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)

On the corner of a lane leading back from the harbour area, this former Ōta

residence is a fine collection of restored buildings from the mid-18th

century. Guided tours (included in the admission) take you through the

impressive family home and workplace, where hōmēshu (sweet medicinal

liquor) was once brewed. Some English information is available.

Iō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(医王寺)

Up a steep hill on the western side of Tomo-no-ura, Iō-ji was reputedly

founded by Kōbō Daishi in the 900s. A path leads from the temple to the top

of a bluff, from where there are fabulous views.

4 Sleeping & Eating

If you’re interested in spending the night, it’s worth staying on the island of

Sensui-jima, where there is a hotel and it is possible to camp on the beach.

There are a few guesthouses in Tomo-no-ura town, and nearby Fukuyama

has a bunch of decent hotels in the station area. The Fukuyama Station

tourist office and the Tomo-no-ura tourist office can help with local

accommodation bookings.

The greatest number of eating options are around or near the port. During

the week, restaurants dotted around town may be closed.

Kokuminshukusha Sensui-jima

RYOKAN

¥¥

(国民宿舎仙酔島; %084-970-5050; www.tomonoura.co.jp/sen; 3373-2 Ushiroji Tomo-chō; r

per person incl 2 meals from ¥9505; pn)

This government-owned, reasonably priced ryokan option on Sensui-jima,

right on the beach, has Japanese- and Western-style rooms and a range of

baths (which nonguests can use from ¥540). Meals, unsurprisingly, feature

local seafood.

o Tabuchiya

CAFE

¥¥

(田渕屋; %084-983-5085; www.tomonoura-tabuchiya.com; 838 Tomo-chō-tomo; set lunch ¥1300; hnoon-5pm Thu-Tue)

At this former merchant building, only one meal is served – hayashi raisu

(beef in a rich tomato-based sauce on rice) – but it’s served very well, and in

a space filled with Japanese memorabilia. The set lunch comes with a tea or

coffee. Walk past the Ōta Residence away from the harbour and look for the

easel outside.

8 Information

Opposite the Tomo-no-ura bus stop, 500m from the central harbour area,

Tomo-no-ura Tourist Information Centre (鞆の浦観光情報センター;

%084-982-3200; 416-1 Tomo-chō-tomo; h9am-7pm) doubles as a souvenir shop. It has

English maps and information on the locations used in films, and rents out

audio guides (¥500).

8 Getting There & Around

Bus 5 runs to Tomo-no-ura every 20 minutes from outside JR Fukuyama

Station (¥520, 30 minutes). The tourist office is located at the Tomo-no-ura

stop; the bus continues on another 450m or so to the Tomo-kō stop (Tomo

Port), which is closest to the central harbour area. JR Fukuyama Station is a

main hub and shinkansen stop on the San-yō line.

It’s easy and most convenient to get around the town on foot. Bikes can be

hired (¥300 for two hours) from a booth (open 10am to 4.30pm) next to the

terminal where the ferries leave for Sensui-jima.

TOTTORI, SHIMANE & THE SAN’IN COAST

On the San-in coastline, alongside the Sea of Japan, the pace of life is

decidedly slower than on the San-yō coast. Tottori Prefecture (鳥取県;

Tottori-ken) is the least populous of Japan’s 47 prefectures and probably gets

less tourist love than most, although it has sand dunes, plenty of coastal

scenery and a volcano to explore. Highlights of neighbouring Shimane

Prefecture (島根県; Shimane-ken) include the capital city, Matsue, with its

original castle; Izumo Taisha, possibly one of Japan’s oldest Shintō shrines;

and the far-flung Oki Islands. This is off-the-beaten-track Japan, but there is

no shortage of reasons to visit.

8 Getting There & Around

The cities of Tottori and Matsue are the major hubs for the region. JR Super

Hakuto trains connect Tottori and Kyoto ( tokkyū ¥7550, three hours) via

Osaka and Himeji. JR Yakumo trains connect Matsue and Okayama ( tokkyū

¥5510, 2¾ hours), which is an interchange station on the main shinkansen

trunk lines between Osaka and Tokyo to the north, and Fukuoka to the south.

The JR San-in line connects Tottori to points east, such as Kansai’s

Kinosaki Onsen, and continues west via Matsue into Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Hiring a car is recommended for exploring the region’s diverse scenery.

Tottori 鳥取

%0857 / POP 193,770

If you’re into camels, geological science, crumbling country railroads,

fading post-WWII architecture and sand…little Tottori (鳥取) might be

worth your while. Its big-in-Japan sand dunes and sand sculpture museum

are the main draw here.

If none of those things float your boat, then, despite the warmth and

eagerness of the locals for your visit, Tottori may struggle to warrant

consideration on shorter Japan itineraries. Most international visitors come

en route to the prefecture’s more rewarding natural attractions.

1 Sights

o Sand Museum

MUSEUM

(砂の美術館; %0857-20-2231; www.sand-museum.jp; 2083-17 Yūyama, Fukube-chō; ¥600;

h9am-6pm Sun-Fri, to 8pm Sat May-Dec)

You came to see sand? Well, there’s truckloads at this impressive museum of

sand sculptures, where sand aficionados from all over the world are invited

to create huge, amazingly detailed works based on a particular theme. The

exhibition changes each year: check at the tourist office for this year’s theme

and opening months. Unsurprisingly, the museum is near the sand dunes.

o Tottori-sakyū (The Dunes)

DUNES

(鳥取砂丘; p)

Used as the location for Teshigahara Hiroshi’s classic 1964 film, Woman in

the Dunes, the Tottori sand dunes are on the coast about 5km from the city.

There’s a viewing point on a hillside overlooking the dunes, along with

parking and the usual array of tourist schlock. You can even get a ‘Lawrence

of Arabia’ photo of yourself accompanied by a camel. Pick up maps at the

Sand Pal Tottori Information Centre.

The dunes stretch over 10km along the coast and, at some points, can be

about 2km wide. Buses to the dunes also stop at the Sakyū-Sentā (砂丘セン

ター; Dunes Centre) on the hillside, from where you can take a cable car

(one way/return ¥200/300) across roads down to the entrance to the dunes.

Otherwise it’s an easy five-minute walk, or simply stay on the bus to the

dunes.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation options in the city lack lustre, with most due for a thorough

update. Staying near the station, not the dunes, is definitely the most

convenient.

There’s more choice here by way of dining than anywhere else in the

prefecture, but that’s not saying a lot. A neatly organised strip of good

restaurants with international and Japanese options runs east along Suehiro-

dōri, two blocks north of Tottori Station.

Drop Inn Tottori

HOSTEL

¥

(ホステル ドロップイン鳥取; %0857-30-0311; www.dropinn-tottori.com; 2-276 Ima-

machi; dm from ¥3900; naW)

Tottori’s only hostel has smart male- and female-only capsules with thick

mattresses, flat-screen TVs, safes and, instead of bunks, cavernous personal

lockers underneath each bed. The modern bathrooms are immaculately

clean, and English-speaking staff in the stylish cafe serve great coffee and

can guide you through their useful maps.

From Tottori Station’s north exit, walk left along the main road and you’ll

find Drop Inn on a corner after a couple of minutes.

Matsuya-sō

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(松屋荘; %0857-22-4891; 3-814 Yoshikata Onsen; s/tw from ¥3880/6580)

This minshuku-style lodging has no wi-fi or mod cons, but offers large, clean

tatami rooms with washbasins and shared bathrooms. From Tottori Station’s

north exit, go straight up the main street and turn right onto Eiraku-dōri (永

楽通り). Look for Matsuya-sō on the left after six blocks; it’s about a 15-

minute walk from the station. The welcoming owners speak some English.

Green Hotel Morris

HOTEL

¥¥

(グリーンホテルモーリス; %0857-22-2331; www.hotel-morris.co.jp; 2-107 Ima-machi;

s/d/tw from ¥5835/8425/11,880; niW)

Stylish, neutral-toned rooms, large spa baths and a sauna make Morris a

good-value modern option. It’s just two blocks north of the station, and

there’s a buffet breakfast for ¥565.

Gottsuo Ramen

RAMEN

¥

(ごっつぉらーめん; %0857-35-0977; www.gottsuo.jp/about-tottori; 159-4 Suehiro-dōri, Onsenchō; ramen ¥700-1050; h11am-2pm & 6pm-2am Mon-Sat)

Get a taste of Tottori’s take on ramen, which uses beef bones for the base

rather than pork. This small joint is known for its flavoursome, thin, almost

fresh broth and soft cuts of pork. Sit at the bar or tables with a beer and side

of gyōza. Friendly English-speaking staff can help you navigate the menu.

It’s on Suehiro-dōri, east of the intersection with Ekimae-dōri. Look for

the door with the octagonal window.

Sumibi Jujuan

GRILL

¥¥

(炭火焼ジュジュアン; %0857-21-1919; www.sumibi-jujuan.info; 751 Suehiro-dōri, Onsen-

chō; mains ¥980-3000, set menus ¥4800-10,000; h5-11pm)

Fresh seafood and local beef sumibiyaki (charcoal grilled) are the specialities

in this airy restaurant. It does shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef or pork cooked

with vegetables in boiling water and then dipped in sauce) and set courses,

such as wagyū beef or kaisen gozen (grilled seafood and vegetables with

sides), with a seasonal menu that may include crab and other locally sourced

goodies.

It’s on Suehiro-dōri, two blocks east of the intersection with Ekimae-dōri.

8 Information

Sand Pal Tottori Information Centre (サンドパルとっとり; %0857-20-2231;

083-17 Yūyama, Fukube-chō; h9am-6pm) Specialises in all things sand-sculpture and

sand-dune related, but can also offer advice on excursions around the nearby

coastline. Opposite the sand dunes entrance.

Tottori Tourist Support Center (鳥取市観光案内所; %0857-22-3318;

www.torican.jp; h8.30am-5.30pm) To the right as you exit the station, with English-

language pamphlets, maps, free wi-fi and English-speaking staff, who can

book the 2000 Yen Taxi for tourists. Accommodation is only booked at the

other tourism office, just inside the station entrance.

8 Getting There & Away

Tottori is on the coastal JR San-in train line. JR Pass holders going south and

east (eg towards Himeji, Okayama, Osaka) must pay a cash fee on board or

when booking of around ¥1820 for using non-JR tracks; JR-only alternatives

add hours. JR West Pass holders do not need to pay this additional fee.

Major destinations (completely covered by the JR Pass):

Matsue ¥2270, 2¼ hours; express service ¥4620, 1½ hours

Okayama express via Chizu and Kamigōri on the Super Inaba ¥5010, two

hours

Toyooka (Hyōgo Prefecture) local service via Hamasaka and Kinosakionsen

¥1490, 2½ hours

There are also long-distance buses to major cities in the region.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Rent-a-Cycle (per day ¥500; h8am-6.30pm) is outside the station. You can also

rent bikes at the Sand Pal Tottori Information Centre near the dunes.

BUS

The Kirinjishi loop bus (¥300/600 per ride/day pass; free for JR West Pass

holders) operates on weekends, holidays and daily between 20 July and 31

August. It passes the main sights and goes to the dunes. Regular city buses

depart from stop 0 (zero) outside the station and travel to the dunes area

(¥360, 20 minutes). There are maps and timetables available at the

information offices and inside the bus station.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Cal Rent-a-Car (キャルレンタカー; %0857-24-0452; www.cal-rent.net; 1-88

Tomiyasu; 24hr from ¥3800; h8am-8pm) Take the main road leading straight out from

the south side of the station, then take a left turn at the first major

intersection; this rental outlet is in a petrol station on the right.

TAXI

2000 Yen Taxi (%0857-22-7935; www.torican.jp; per car for foreigners with ID ¥2000;

h8.30am-5.30pm) A great deal for visiting a few sights in a short time. Up to

four passengers can hire a taxi for up to three hours, including waiting time

at any stops. Passengers are also given a coupon card that can be used at

some sights for discounts and free souvenirs (mostly trinkets). Book at the

Tottori Tourist Support Center.

San-in Coast National Park 山陰海岸国立公園

The coastline east from the Tottori dunes, stretching all the way to the Tango

Peninsula in Kyoto Prefecture, is known as the San-in Coast National Park

(山陰海岸国立公園; San-in Kaigan Kokuritsu-kōen). The park boasts

rugged headlands, sandy albeit polluted beaches, and pines jutting into the

blue sky.

Near the edge of Hyōgo Prefecture, the Uradome Kaigan (浦富海岸;

Uradome Coastline) features a scenic stretch of islets and craggy cliffs with

pines clinging precariously to their sides. Three popular beaches lie a few

kilometres further east: Uradome (浦富), Makidani (牧谷) and Higashi-

hama (東浜). The last one is among the best swimming spots in the area.

The coast here forms part of the Chūgoku Shizen Hodō (中国自然歩道;

Chūgoku Nature Walking Path), a network of 2295km of walking tracks that

span the neighbouring prefectures of Shimane, Hiroshima, Okayama and

Yamaguchi. There is scant information in English, but hikers can enquire at

the tourism office for maps. Online maps showing the area are available

from the Tottori Prefecture website (www.pref.tottori.lg.jp/81291.htm), and a

detailed pamphlet in Japanese is available as a pdf from the Nature Lovers

Club (http://bit.ly/2Jax44y).

8 Information

Uradome Tourism Association (浦富観光協会; %0857-72-3481; 783-8 Uradome,

Iwami-chō; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) This info centre is located a stone’s throw from JR

Iwami Station. You can rent electric bicycles (¥500 a day with ¥500 deposit)

and staff can help arrange accommodation in the area or show you how to

you take a bus to the beach.

8 Getting There & Around

While it is possible to reach some of the area’s sights by combinations of bus

and train, services can be infrequent and stations aren’t always conveniently

located to what you want to see. If you’re really keen to explore the area,

your best bet is to rent a car: there’s a number of car-rental companies

around Tottori Station.

An exception is the swimming beach Higashi-hama (東浜), easily

accessed by train from Tottori – it’s just near Higashi-hama Station (¥410,

30 minutes).

Iwami, on the JR San-in line, is the closest station to the Uradome Kaigan

from Tottori (¥320, 25 minutes), but still 4.5km away.

Daisen 大山

%0859

Although it’s not one of Japan’s highest mountains, at 1729m Daisen (大山)

looks impressive because it rises straight from sea level – its summit is only

about 10km from the coast. Daisen is part of the Daisen-Oki National Park

(大山隠岐国立公園).

The popular climb up the volcano is a five- to six-hour return trip from

Buddhist temple Daisen-ji (大山寺; %0859-52-2158; www.daisenji.jp; 9 Daisen; treasure

hall ¥300; h9am-4pm Apr-Nov). From the summit, there are fine views over the

coast and, in perfect conditions, all the way to the Oki Islands.

The mountain catches the northwest monsoon winds in the winter,

bringing lots of snow to what is western Japan’s top skiing area. Among the

slopes are Daisen White Resort (大山ホワイトリゾート; %0859-52-2315;

www.daisen-resort.jp; day lift ticket adult/child from ¥4900/3900) and Daisen Masumizu-kōgen Ski Resort (大山ますみず高原スキー場; %0859-52-2420;

www.masumizu.net/ski; 1067-2 Masumizu-kōgen; day lift ticket adult/child ¥4000/3000; hlift 9am-5pm).

Bayside Square Kaike Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

(ベイサイドスクエア皆生ホテル; %0859-35-0001; www.kaikehotel.com; 4-21-1 Kaike-

onsen, Yonago; s/d incl breakfast from ¥5950/14,050)

In Yonago, about 17km from Daisen, you’ll find this smart, modern

beachfront hotel with simple, stylish rooms, a fabulous onsen, and lovely

views over the Sea of Japan.

8 Information

Daisen-ji Information Centre (大山寺観光案内所; %0859-52-2502; 40-33 Daisen-

cho; h8am-6.30pm) Located at the temple; stocked with brochures, maps and

hiking information. Staff can arrange bookings at the local ryokan.

For info online in English, check out http://en.go-to-japan.jp/daisenguide.

8 Getting There & Away

The closest station to Daisen is Yonago, about 30 minutes from Matsue (in

Shimane) and one to 1½ hours from Tottori on the San-in line.

The Daisen Loop bus (one-/two-day pass ¥1000/1300) runs to Daisen-ji

from Yonago Station on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays in early May, early

August and late October. It stops at all the main sights around the mountain.

Nihon Kotsu (www.nihonkotsu.co.jp) buses run regularly to the temple

from Yonago (¥830, 50 minutes, five daily).

Sakaiminato 境港

%0859 / POP 34,200

Sakaiminato (境港) is a beacon for fans of manga artist Mizuki Shigeru,

who was born and raised here. There’s a museum but also statues of many of

his characters and other homages to the artist around town.

Sakaiminato station and port are adjacent, making the town a convenient

boarding point for boats to the Oki Islands.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Onyado Nono

SPA HOTEL

¥¥

(御宿野乃; %0859-44-5489; www.hotespa.net/hotels/sakaiminato; s/d from ¥9990/13,990; paW) New in 2016, this towering 195-room, all-tatami (take off your shoes in the

lobby) hotel looks like it has been plopped in the middle of nowhere.

Popular with tour groups for its comfortable, compact rooms and convenient

location by the station, the best bit is the rooftop rotemburo (outdoor bath)

with sweeping views: you can even see Daisen on a clear day.

There are a handful of eateries a few minutes’ walk from the station area,

but don’t expect too much in terms of variety. Turn left on exiting the station

for a large supermarket a three-minute walk away for self-catering on your

onward journey to the Oki Islands.

Genki-tei

SEAFOOD

¥¥

(元気亭; %0859-42-3551; 38 Taisho-machi; dishes ¥600-2600; h11am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Fri-Wed)

This restaurant is proud that its kaisen-don (seafood over rice) has featured

on Japanese TV. The friendly owner will help you navigate the menu and

advise on the daily specials: fish fresh off the boat. There are a few izakaya-

style items on the menu, or you can just stop in for some delicious gyōza and

beer.

It’s one block northeast of Sakaiminato Station. Look for the red writing

on the black building.

THE GHOULISH WORLD OF MIZUKI SHIGERU

Eyeballs on taxis and ghostly murals on ferries and ports in the Oki Islands – this is the horror

manga of artist Mizuki Shigeru (水木 しげる), Sakaiminato’s most famous resident.

His adorably evil yōkai (spirit demons) from manga series GeGeGe No Kitarō are a take on

Japanese folklore. They plaster four train exteriors and interiors from Yonago to Sakaiminato –

even announcements are made by one of his characters.

Legions of fans make the trip especially to see Mizuki Shigeru Road – outside Sakaiminato

Station – to pose with the 153 bronze yōkai statues and visit the Mizuki Shigeru Museum (水

木しげる記念館; %0859-42-2171; http://mizuki.sakaiminato.net; 5 Hon-machi; ¥300;

h9.30am-5pm; p), plus the inevitable souvenir stores. The multimedia museum explains all

things ghoulish, with free English audio guides, and has rooms that re-create ancient Japan.

Fans can pick up a yōkai stamp and guide booklet (¥100) from the tourist information office

(%0859-47-0121; www.sakaiminato.net; Sakaiminato Port; h9am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb), adjacent to the ferry waiting room, to collect stamps from 37 stores corresponding to

some of the statues.

Mizuki’s undead cast includes Kitarō, the boy born in a cemetery; his father Medama-oyaji, a

reborn eyeball; Neko Musume, the ‘Cat Girl’ with fangs and a Jekyll and Hyde personality; and

Nezumi Otoko, the unwashed ‘Rat Man’ who uses flatulence as a weapon. Kids love it.

8 Getting There & Away

From Matsue, change at Yonago to the colourfully decked-out local trains of

the JR Sakai line for Sakaiminato. The journey takes 90 minutes or so,

depending on how long you have to transfer between trains, and costs ¥840.

You can also take a direct bus from Matsue Station stop 9 (¥1000, 40

minutes, nine daily; free with Perfect Ticket) to Sakaiminato, passing a

scenic lake with onboard audio commentary in English.

Oki Islands 隠岐諸島

North of Matsue in the Sea of Japan are the remote and spectacular Oki

Islands (隠岐諸島; Oki-shotō), once used to exile officials (including two

emperors) who came out on the losing side of political squabbles. Being cut

off from the mainland, there are cultural and religious practices preserved

here that aren’t observed elsewhere in Japan, the pace of life is decidedly

slower, and there’s a refreshing lack of development at the tourist spots. Four

of the islands are inhabited: the three Dōzen Islands – Nishino-shima,

Chiburi-jima and Nakano-shima – and the larger Dōgo island. Allow at least

a couple of days to visit and keep in mind that ferry services are subject to

change and halt in bad weather.

The islands are within the Oki Islands Geopark, with coastal areas that are

part of the Daisen-Oki National Park (大山隠岐国立公園).

4 Sleeping & Eating

All the islands have ryokan, minshuku and campgrounds (you’ll need to

bring your own tent).

Before you set out, it’s advisable to contact the tourism associations of the

islands you wish to visit. Staff will be able to book your accommodation and

tell you how to get there – essential, as lodgings can be spread out and

resemble a regular house without any signs.

These are remote islands and much of the produce here is brought in by

ferry: expect higher prices for regular commodities. You’ll find an

abundance of seafood on local menus. Each island’s handful of eateries open

irregular hours outside the busier summer season. Best to chill like the locals

and play it by ear.

8 Information

MONEY

All of the four main islands have a post office with an ATM that accepts

international cards.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Each island has a tourism association with a tourist information office

offering free wi-fi and at least one native English speaker, who can book

activities and accommodation.

For more on the natural and cultural features of the islands, the Oki

Islands Geopark Promotion Committee (%08512-2-9636; www.oki-geopark.jp)

produces a very good English guide and map, with most of the information

reproduced online.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

The islands’ Oki Airport (OKI; %08512-2-0703; www.oki-airport.jp; 1889-12 Misakimachi)

on Dōgo is serviced by regular direct flights from Izumo and Osaka (Itami)

airports.

BOAT

The most common way to reach the islands is by ferry or hydrofoil (the

‘Rainbow Jet’). Services, operated by Oki Kisen (%08512-2-1122; www.oki-

kisen.co.jp) depart from Shichirui Port in Shimane Prefecture and Sakaiminato

Port in Tottori Prefecture.

Depending on your port of embarkation and ultimate destination, boats do

an island-hop en route. Sample routes and fares include Sakaiminato to

Dōgo (ferry ¥3240, 2½ hours; hydrofoil ¥6170, 70 minutes) and Nishino-

shima (ferry ¥3240, 1½ hours; hydrofoil ¥6170, one hour).

While there are some seated areas on the ferry, most locals sprawl out on

the grubby carpet and sleep. Blanket rentals are available! Once on board,

you can ‘upgrade’ to a private cabin from ¥4000 if you feel like a splurge.

The Rainbow Jet is fully seated.

Buying tickets seems more complicated than it should be, even if you

speak Japanese. You can reserve the Rainbow Jet in advance, but only pay

for your ticket on the day. You’ll need to fill in an embarkation card before

proceeding to the ticket counter at all of the Oki Kisen offices. Make sure

you allow yourself enough time before departure. When in doubt, phone a

tourism office.

Buses go to Shichirui from Matsue Station stop 9 (¥1000, 40 minutes,

twice daily) and Yonago Station stop 2 (¥870, 55 minutes, three daily).

Sakaiminato is at the end of the JR Sakai train line, which connects with the

JR San-in line at Yonago (¥320, 45 minutes). Direct buses from Matsue

Station stop 9 (¥1000, 40 minutes, nine daily, free with Perfect Ticket) also

run to Sakaiminato.

JR Passes cover trains but not buses or ferries.

8 Getting Around

It’s possible to get to some of the main attractions by bike, but to see all of

the islands it’s best to hire a car or make use of a taxi or eco-tour guide

service.

The inter-island ferry (%089514-6-0016; 1 trip ¥300) service operates the

Isokaze and Dōzen ferries between islands.

Dōgo 島後

%08512 / POP 14,850

While Dōgo (島後), the Oki group’s largest island, has notably more signs of

civilisation than the Dōzen trio, the pace here is as delightfully slow and

there’s still barely a franchised or recognisable brand to be found. The island

is notable for its giant, wizened old cedar trees: the 800-year-old Chichi-

sugi tree is believed to be the home of a deity; and the Yao-sugi tree at

Tamakawasu-no-mikoto-jinja is thought to be 2000 years old, its gnarled

and sprawling branches propped up with posts.

The island offers nature and coastal walks, and boat tours in the Saigō port

area and along the northern Shirashima coast. ‘Bull sumo’ is an attraction

throughout the year – not big guy versus bull, but bull versus bull in a tug-

of-war, without harm to the animals.

2 Activities

Oki Onsen GOKA

SENTO

(隠岐温泉GOKA; %08512-5-3200; 296-1 Nanpō; ¥500; h2-8pm Tue-Sun)

Dōgo’s only sentō (public bath) is delightfully dated and refreshingly quiet.

It’s on the northwest corner of the island, about 25 minutes’ drive from

Saigō Port. Unusually, in addition to sex-separated baths, there is a mixed

bathing area (swimsuit required).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Dining options, though few, are mainly concentrated around the Saigō Port

area in Okinoshima town and may have irregular hours. Pick up up a handy

pamphlet from the Okinoshima Tourist Information Center.

Kichiura Campground

CAMPGROUND

¥

(吉浦野営場, Kichiura yaeijō; %0852-22-6172; Hisami, Okinoshima-chō; campsites per person

¥300; hJun-Sep)

Tucked away in the island’s northwest, this attractive, isolated campground

with modern facilities runs down a steep hill towards a little beach. Rental

tents are available (¥1500).

Hotel Uneri

CABIN

¥¥

(ホテル海音里; %08512-5-3211; www.gokanosato.jp; 1933-1 Minamigata; cabins from ¥12,420;

p)

Deliciously isolated on the island’s northwestern flank, about 16km from

Saigō Port, Hotel Uneri has log cabins in a peaceful location near the water

and a waterfall. You can either self-cater with the open kitchen and outdoor

barbecue or have a prearranged dinner and breakfast. The wooden beds are

simple and firm but perfectly fine.

Yao-sugi

SUSHI

¥¥

(八百杉; %08512-2-0028; 16 Menuki-no-ni; set menus ¥4000-6000; h5-8pm Tue-Sun)

The ample seafood dinner menus are a bounty of sushi, sashimi, crumbed

shrimp skewers, plump oysters and sashimi. This is the way to dine on the

Oki Islands. It’s 500m north of the Saigō Port ferry terminal; look for the

white building with an abstract picture of three cedar trees.

8 Information

Okinoshima Tourist Information Center (隠岐の島観光案内所; %8512-2-

0787; www.oki-dougo.info; 54-3 Oki Port Plaza; h8am-7pm; W) Opposite the Saigō Port

ferry terminal – follow the signs.

8 Getting There & Away

Daily ferry services depart Sakaiminato in Tottori Prefecture (¥3240, 2½

hours) to Saigō Port in the southeast. For a faster trip, jump on the ‘Rainbow

Jet’ hydrofoil at Shichirui Port in Shimane Prefecture (¥6170, 70 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Renting a car at Saigō Port is the best way to see the island. Contact the

Okinoshima Tourist Information Center for advance reservations.

Dōzen Islands

West of Dōgo, Nishino-shima (西ノ島) boasts the stunningly rugged

Kuniga coastline, with the sheer 257m Matengai cliff. The coastal hike here

is a must-do. The island is also home to interesting shrines, including

Yurahime-jinja, near a small inlet. Legend has it that squid come en masse to

this inlet every autumn/winter to ask forgiveness from the deity (there are

pictures at the shrine to prove it). Nishino-shima is also known for horses,

which you’ll see roaming the hillsides.

The small Chiburi-jima (知夫里島), or ‘Chibu’, where the local slogan is

nonbiri Chiburi (carefree Chiburi), is home to more impressive coastline,

featuring the striking Sekiheki, an expanse of rust-coloured cliffs. You can

also see stone-wall remains on the island – what is left of a crop-rotation

practice that began here in the Middle Ages.

The Akiya coast and Oki-jinja are draws on Nakano-shima (中ノ島),

also known locally as Ama.

2 Activities

Club Noah Oki

KAYAKING, DIVING

(クラブノア隠岐; %08514-6-0825; www.oki.club-noah.net; 3078-12 Mita, Nishino-shima;

dives from ¥7600, sunset cave kayaking ¥5500; hoffice 9am-6pm)

Diving and kayaking, including sunset cave tours and night dives. Instructors

know the essentials in English. If you are a beginner, try the ‘Experience’

dives (¥13,000 per person), which stick to the beach shallows and include all

equipment rental.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Dining options outside the busier summer season are limited, spread out and

open irregular hours. Pick up a pamphlet from the tourism office for the

latest information, and dine at your accommodation.

o Kuniga-sō

RYOKAN

¥¥

(国賀荘; %08514-6-0301; www.kunigasou.com; 192 Urago, Nishino-shima; r per person with 2

meals from ¥12,000; paW)

Operated by a friendly family, Nishino-shima’s best lodging features rooms

with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay and a communal bath

sharing the same vista. The decor in the shared spaces is delightfully

outdated and islandy, while rooms are sleek (except for old TVs) and

neutral-toned with comfortable twin beds. Meals include local rock oysters

and scallops.

Oki Seaside Hotel Tsurumaru

HOTEL

¥¥

(隠岐シーサイドホテル鶴丸; %08514-6-1111; www.oki-tsurumaru.jp; 771-1 Mita,

Nishino-shima; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥10,800; pW)

On Nishino-shima, Oki Seaside Hotel Tsurumaru has a pleasant waterfront

location and a large restaurant, and it runs regular cruises. The nautical

theme continues to an on-site onsen with a boat-shaped bath.

Hotel Chibu-no-Sato

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(ホテル知夫の里; %08514-8-2500; www.tibunosato.com; Chibu 1242-1, Chibun-jima; d incl 2

meals from ¥22,680; paW)

A great choice on Chiburi-jima, with balconied rooms featuring fabulous sea

views. There’s an open-air bath (open April to October) and free bicycle use

for guests, though a beach is within walking distance. The included meals

feature seafood.

Sawano

CHINESE

¥

(さわの; %08514-6-0181; 367 Urago, Nishinoshima; dishes ¥680-1080, lunch ¥980; hnoon-1pm &

6-8pm)

If you can speak some Japanese, you might indulge in a heartwarming

conversation with the friendly owner of this cosy Chinese joint, who spent a

year travelling the length and breadth of Japan in the ’70s before starting a

family on the island. He makes fat, juicy dumplings and delicious vegetable-

laden miso-rāmen, among other dishes.

8 Information

Nishino-shima Tourist Information Office (%08514-7-8888; www.nkk-oki.com;

h8.30am-7pm Jun-Oct, to 5pm Nov-May; W) English-speaking staff can help book

accommodation.

8 Getting There & Away

Ferries and the faster ‘Rainbow Jet’ hydrofoil depart Shichirui Port in

Shimane Prefecture and Sakaiminato Port in Tottori Prefecture for Chiburi-

jima, Nakano-shima and Nishino-shima. The timetable is a little

complicated; check www.oki-kisen.co.jp for the latest.

Ferries from the mainland to Dōgo via the Dōzen Islands take about 2½

hours and fares start at ¥3240.

Depending on the seasonal timetable, only a handful of hydrofoils stop at

the Dōzen Islands. The most popular route in peak season is from the

mainland to Nishino-shima (¥6170, one hour).

8 Getting Around

There’s a local bus on Nishino-shima that goes to the Kuniga coast, though

it’s infrequent.

Bike hire on the smaller islands can suffice, but it’s best to rent a car if

you’re planning to explore larger Nishino-shima. The tourism offices of each

island can help with reservations.

It costs ¥300 to ride on the regular inter-island ferry service between the

Dōzen Islands.

MATSUE PERFECT TICKET

The excellent-value Perfect Ticket (foreigners with ID ¥1500) is a three-day pass of unlimited

travel within the Ensubu area (Izumo, Matsue and Sakaiminato in Tottori Prefecture) on

transport (not JR) including Matsue City buses and Lake Line bus; Izumo and Yonago buses,

including airport buses (¥1000 a ride alone); and the Ichibata bus between Matsue and

Sakaiminato (¥1000 alone). Enquire at the Matsue International Tourist Information Office.

Matsue 松江

%0852 / POP 204,200

With its fine castle and crowd-pleasing sunsets over Shinji-ko (Lake Shinji),

Matsue (松江) is an appealing city with some interesting historical

attractions. The city straddles the Ōhashi-gawa, which connects Shinji-ko

with Nakaumi, a saline lake. Most of the main attractions are in a compact

area in the north, where you’ll find the castle – a rare original. Matsue is also

a good base for sojourns to other places of interest in Shimane Prefecture

and you could easily spend a few lazy days here.

Matsue

1 Top Sights

1 Matsue-jō

B2

1 Sights

2 Buke Yashiki Samurai Residence

B1

3 Koizumi Yakumo \(Lafcadio Hearn\) Memorial Museum

B1

4 Lafcadio Hearn Old Residence

B1

5 Matsue History Museum

B1

6 Shimane Prefectural Art Museum

B4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Horikawa Sightseeing Boat

B2

4 Sleeping

8 Hotel Knut

C3

9 Matsue Urban Hotel

D3

10 Minamikan

B3

11 Ryokan Terazuya

C4

5 Eating

12 Greens Baby

B2

13 Kawa-kyō

B3

14 Tsurumaru

C3

15 Yakumo-an

B1

1 Sights

Bring your passport, as all of the main sights offer hefty discounts on

admission for foreign visitors.

o Matsue-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 松江城, Matsue Castle; %0852-21-4030; www.matsue-

tourism.or.jp/m_castle; 1-5 Tono-machi; ¥670, foreigners with ID ¥330; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

Dating from 1611, picturesque Matsue-jō has a wooden interior showcasing

treasures belonging to the Matsudaira clan. Known as ‘Plover Castle’ for the

graceful shape of its gable ornaments, Matsue-jō is one of only 12 original

keeps left in Japan, making it well worth having a look inside. There are

dioramas of the city and displays of armoury, including a collection of

helmets – each helmet design is said to have reflected the personality of its

wearer.

English explanations of how the castle proved it was an original are

fascinating and detailed, highlighting the original structures. From the top of

the castle there are great unobstructed views. It’s also pleasant to walk

around the castle grounds (free entry) and along the surrounding moat, with

its charming bridges and pines reaching out across the water. A very

enjoyable way to see the castle area is via a trip on a Horikawa Sightseeing

Boat.

Matsue History Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 松江歴史館; %0852-32-1607; www.matsu-reki.jp; 279 Tono-machi;

¥510, foreigners with ID ¥250; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar, closed 3rd Thu of the

month)

Matsue’s excellent modern museum gives a broad-ranging introduction to

the history of the regional clans and development of local industry and

crafts. Among the displays are old town maps, ceramics, letters and the local

speciality, Matsue wagashi (sweets) – you can taste modern versions in the

attached shop, made famous in Japan by a TV show. The free English audio

guide is very good.

Shimane Prefectural Art Museum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 島根県立博物館; %0852-55-4700; www.shimane-art-museum.jp; 1-5

Sodeshi-chō; permanent/special collection ¥300/1000, foreigners with ID ¥150/500; h10am-6.30pm

Wed-Mon Oct-Feb, to 30min after sunset Mar-Sep)

With its white undulating roof and huge glass windows facing the lake, the

museum building itself is an impressive sight. Inside, it displays rotating

exhibits from its collection of woodblock prints (there are some Hokusai

among them), as well as European paintings and contemporary art. The

sunset views from the museum’s 2nd-floor platform or outside by the water

also draw crowds here. The museum is a 15-minute walk west of the station.

Buke Yashiki Samurai Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 武家屋敷; %0852-22-2243; www.matsue-tourism.or.jp/buke; 305

Kitahori-chō; ¥300, foreigners with ID ¥150; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

You’ll take lots of pictures as you stroll around this immaculately preserved

house and garden, built for a middle-ranking samurai family during the early

18th century.

WORTH A TRIP

ADACHI MUSEUM OF ART

The Adachi Museum of Art (足立美術館; %0854-28-7111; www.adachi-museum.or.jp; 320

Furukawa-chō, Yasugi-shi; tourists with passport ¥1150; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-

Mar; pc), located east of Matsue in Yasugi, was founded by local businessman and art collector

Adachi Zenkō. The collection includes over 100 paintings by Yokoyama Taikan (1868–1958)

and a good selection of works by other major 20th-century Japanese painters. There’s also a

delightful ‘pictures for children’ gallery. But for many the real attraction is the stunning

gardens, regularly voted among the best in Japan.

Sit and contemplate the perfectly clipped mounds of the Dry Landscape Garden – in the

distance, mountains rise up as though part of the garden itself.

From Matsue, take the JR line to Yasugi (安来; ¥410, 35 minutes), where there’s a free

shuttle bus (20 minutes, every 15 to 40 minutes from 8.50am) to the museum. The bus also

leaves from Yonago Station (12.25pm and 1.15pm, 45 minutes).

T Tours

o Horikawa Sightseeing Boat

BOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852-27-0417; www.matsue-horikawameguri.jp; 507-1 Kuroda-chō; ¥1230, foreigners with ID ¥820; hevery 15-20min 9am-5pm)

The characterful boatmen circumnavigate the castle moat and then push

along the city’s canals and beneath a series of bridges on a 50-minute ride.

Picturesque views include Shiomi-Nawate (the road of Buke Yashiki

Samurai Residence) – one of the most representative vistas of the Edo period

– as well as local houses, and turtles sunning on logs. Recorded explanations

in English are sporadic but informative.

There are a few boarding points; the main one is near the castle entrance.

z Festivals & Events

Matsue Suitōro

CULTURAL

(松江水燈路; www.suitouro.com; hOct)

In Matsue’s night festival of water and light, hand-painted lanterns create

atmospheric paths of light around the moat and up to the castle grounds of

Matsue-jō, where there are group drumming battles and outdoor food stalls.

Held every Saturday, Sunday and holiday in October.

4 Sleeping

o Hotel Knut

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルクヌート; %0852-61-1400; www.hotel-knut.jp; 481-7 Asahimachi; dm/s/tw ¥3000/4000/6800; aW)

Although the single hotel-style rooms all have shared toilets and bathrooms,

you might just love this fresh, young conversion of a business hotel, next to

the station. Try for an airy corner double room. The foyer of the hotel hosts a

popular cafe-bar with cheap eats and good drinks, creating a social meeting

spot for those staying in the dorm.

Ryokan Terazuya

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旅館寺津屋; %0852-21-3480; www.mable.ne.jp/~terazuya; 60-3 Tenjin-machi; r per person with/without breakfast ¥5300/4600; iW)

You’ll find a warm welcome and simple tatami rooms at this family-run inn,

opposite a shrine. The owners speak a little English and can collect you from

the station. The bathroom is shared, there’s a 10pm curfew, and coffee and

toast are included if you haven’t paid for the full breakfast. Cash only.

A canal runs behind the ryokan, as does the JR line – fortunately there’s

little traffic at night.

Matsue Urban Hotel

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; %0852-22-0002; www.station.matsue-urban.co.jp; 590-3 Asahi-machi; dm/s/d from

¥2970/4860/7300; aW)

Opposite Matsue Station, Urban Hotel is a total ugly duckling, resembling a

tenement from the outside, but transforming into a sleek, modern hotel

inside, with slick capsules, thick mattresses, and clean, modern furnishings

that extend to the spacious, well-equipped shower rooms. English-speaking

staff are professional, and the only slight letdown are the drab private rooms.

Buffet breakfast is ¥1060.

o Minamikan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 皆美館; %0852-21-5131; www.minami-g.co.jp/minamikan; 14 Suetsugu

Hon-machi; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥23,910; paW)

A refined inn on the edge of the lake, Minamikan has a choice of ‘modern’,

‘retro’ and ‘classic’ rooms, all with broad views across the water. The top-

end ‘modern’ has a tatami room with twin beds and private cypress-wood

onsen. The cheaper ‘classic’ has seen the likes of literary great Kawabata

Yasunari pass through.

There is also an excellent restaurant. The ryokan entrance is set back from

the road.

KAI Izumo

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(会出雲; %0570-073-011; www.hoshinoresorts.com; 1237 Tamayu-chō, Tamatsukuri Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥34,125; paW)

Whilst not in Izumo at all, this modern ryokan in Tamatsukuri Onsen, about

9km southwest of downtown Matsue, has a minimalist but traditional

aesthetic along the (clean) lines of less is more. Each room has a private,

onsen-fed indoor/outdoor bath, and the service and dining will leave you

feeling elevated. One for those who like the finer things in life.

LAFCADIO HEARN: JAPAN’S ADOPTED SON

Born to a Greek mother and an Anglo-Irish army-surgeon father on the island of Lefkada in the

Ionian Sea, Patrick Lafcadio Hearn (1850–1904) grew up in Dublin and studied in England,

before being packed off at 19 with a one-way ticket to America. He worked as a journalist in

Cincinnati, and in New Orleans wrote about voodoo and developed the taste for the exotic that

would characterise his writing on Japan. After two years in the French West Indies, Hearn

accepted an assignment from Harper’s magazine to travel to the Land of the Rising Sun.

Hearn soon became famous for his articles and books about his new home. Eager to stay on

after his contract with Harper’s ran out, he took a job teaching English. For 15 idyllic months

he lived in Matsue, where he married Koizumi Setsu, the daughter of a local samurai family.

After stints elsewhere, he finally settled in Tokyo – ‘the most horrible place in Japan’ – where

he was appointed Professor of English Literature at Tokyo Imperial University.

Although Japan has changed almost beyond recognition since Hearn lived here, his best

pieces are still well worth reading today. His first Japan-themed collection, Glimpses of

Unfamiliar Japan (1894), contains his famous essay on Matsue, ‘Chief City of the Province of

the Gods’, as well as an account of his trip to Izumo, where he was the first European allowed

inside the gates of the ancient shrine. Children still read Hearn’s Japanese folk tales, ghost

stories and legends, which may have been lost in time had Hearn not documented them.

In Matsue, visit the Koizumi Yakumo (Lafcadio Hearn) Memorial Museum ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 小泉八雲記念館; %0852-21-2147; www.hearn-museum-matsue.jp; 322

Okudani-chō; ¥400, foreigners with ID ¥200; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar). In

addition to displays on the writer’s life and work, there are some of his personal effects –

including his dumb-bells, spectacles and a stack of Japanese newspapers on which he wrote

words and phrases to teach English to his son. Next door is the Lafcadio Hearn Old Residence

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小泉八雲旧居; %0852-23-0714; 315 Kitahori-chō; ¥300, foreigners with ID ¥150; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar), the small late 19th-century samurai house with pretty gardens where the writer lived. Here you can see the desk

where he penned Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan.

5 Eating & Drinking

Turn left from the station’s north exit and walk one block to the Asahi-chō

intersection, then turn right to find a healthy selection of izakaya and the

town’s nightlife district radiating off from the main drag.

o Yakumo-an

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 八雲庵; %0852-22-2400; www.yakumoan.jp; 308 Kita-Horiuchi; dishes

¥700-1150; h10am-3pm)

This busy soba restaurant and its beautiful grounds are an excellent place to

sample the local warigo soba, served in a stack of three round lacquerware

trays. Pour some soup stock into the top tray, eat, then pour any leftover

soup into the next tray. Also tasty is soba kamo nanban (noodles with slices

of duck in broth).

Look for a sign on a piece of wood outside.

Greens Baby

VEGETARIAN

¥

( MAP ; %0852-61-3208; http://restaurant-48211.business.site; 204 Tonomachi; lunch from ¥900; h11am-4pm; Wv)

If you have been craving vegetables in Japan, fill up at this cafe near the

castle at a salad bar of pumpkin, peppers, okra and other veg. Vegetarian

mains lean toward burritos, Thai green curry and ‘taco’ (spiced-bean) rice.

There is sake cake or fig ice cream for dessert. Sit at the ethnic-chic upstairs

tables or hammocks.

o Kawa-kyō

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 川京; %0852-22-1312; 65 Suetsugu Hon-machi; dishes ¥800-1575; h6-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

You can count on a friendly welcome at this small izakaya, which specialises

in the ‘seven delicacies’ from Shinji-ko and is a good place to try some local

sake or homemade umeshu (plum wine). The owner’s daughter speaks

English. Look for the bamboo-roofed menu display outside. Weekends get

busy so book ahead.

Tsurumaru

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鶴丸; %0852-22-4887; www.tsurumaru01.com; 1-79 Higashi Hon-machi;

dishes ¥400-1200, set meals ¥2000-4000; h5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

The smell of fish grilling over coals permeates this restaurant, which

specialises in the cuisine of the Oki Islands. The menu features meals such

as eri-yaki konabe (hot spicy soup cooked over a flame at your table) and

sashimi. You’ll know it by the noren (curtain) with the crane on it and the

rustic folk singing that drifts into the street.

There’s a limited English menu.

DON’T MISS

MATSUE’S LOCAL SPECIALITIES

Matsue’s kyodo ryōri (regional cuisine) includes the ‘seven delicacies’ from Shinji-ko:

A suzuki – bass, paper-wrapped and steam-baked

A shirauo – whitebait, as tempura or sashimi

A amasagi – smelt, as sweet tempura or teriyaki

A shijimi – freshwater clams, usually in miso soup

A moroge ebi – shrimp, steamed

A koi – carp, baked in sauce

A unagi – freshwater eel, grilled

8 Information

Matsue International Tourist Information Office (松江国際観光案内所;

%0852-21-4034; www.kankou-matsue.jp; 665 Asahi-machi; h9am-7pm Jun-Oct, to 6pm Nov-May; W) Excellent, friendly assistance in English, French and other languages,

directly in front of JR Matsue Station. Free wi-fi.

8 Getting There & Away

Matsue is on the JR San-in line, which runs along the San-in coast. You can

get to Okayama on the limited express JR Yakumo (¥5510, 2¾ hours). A

longer, but cheaper option (¥3350) is on a local train to Yonago and then

transfer to the JR Hakubi line, taking 3½ to five hours depending on

connections in Yonago.

Highway buses go to Japan’s major cities from stop 9 at the terminal in

front of Matsue Station. At the time of writing, the popular route to

Hiroshima city (¥3900, three hours) was discounted for foreigners with ID to

only ¥500! Enquire at the Matsue International Tourist Information Office to

check if this years-long promotion is still available at this price.

8 Getting Around

It’s possible to walk around the sights. Matsue is also a good place to

explore by bicycle; these can be rented close to Matsue Station at Times

Car Rental (タイムズカーレンタル; %0852-26-8787; 590-4 Asahi-machi; bicycle per

day ¥300; h8am-6.30pm), where you could also rent a car, and returned to your

choice of six different locations. JR West Pass holders can rent bicycles for

free from Eki Rent-a-Car (駅レンタカー西日本; %0852-23-8880;

www.ekiren.com; 478-19 Asahi-machi; bicycle per day ¥500; h8am-7pm), inside the station

car park.

The easiest way to get to all the sights is via the handy city-loop bus. The

red streetcar-like Lake Line buses follow a one-way set route around the

attractions every 20 minutes, starting outside Matsue Station at stop 7. One

ride costs ¥200; a day pass is available for ¥500, purchased on board. It’s

free to ride for holders of a JR West Pass or Perfect Ticket.

Izumo 出雲

%0853 / POP 171,580

Breezy Izumo (出雲) is a lovely little city with one heavyweight attraction –

the great Izumo Taisha shrine, which ranks as one of the most important

shrines in Japan. The shrine and leafy surrounding area can be visited on a

day trip from nearby Matsue.

1 Sights

Izumo Taisha is 8km northwest of central Izumo. The shrine area is basically

one street, lined with eateries and shops, that leads up to the shrine gates.

The Ichibataline Izumo Taisha-mae Station is at the foot of the street.

o Izumo Taisha

SHINTO SHRINE

(出雲大社; %0853-53-3100; www.izumooyashiro.or.jp; 195 Kizuki-higashi, Taisha-chō; h6.30am-8pm) F

Izumo Taisha, also known as Izumo Ōyashiro, is perhaps the oldest Shintō

shrine in Japan. This shrine, dedicated to Ōkuninushi, god of marriage and

bringer of good fortune, is as old as Japanese recorded history – there are

references to Izumo in the Kojiki, Japan’s oldest book – and its origins

stretch back into the age of the gods. It’s second in importance only to Ise-

jingū (in Kansai), the home of the sun goddess Amaterasu.

Visitors to the shrine summon Ōkuninushi by clapping four times rather

than the usual two. According to tradition, the deity ceded control over

Izumo to the sun goddess’s line – on the condition that a huge temple would

be built in his honour, one that would reach as high as the heavens.

Impressive as the structure is today, it was once even bigger. Records

dating from AD 970 describe the shrine as the tallest building in the country;

there is evidence that the shrine towered as high as 48m above the ground

during the Heian period (794–1185). It may well have been too high for its

own good – the structure collapsed five times between 1061 and 1225, and

the roofs today are a more modest 24m high.

The current appearance of the main shrine dates from 1744. The main hall

underwent one of its periodic rebuildings in 2013, to be repeated in another

60 years.

Huge shimenawa (twisted straw ropes) hang over the entry to the main

buildings. Those who can toss and lodge a coin in them are said to be

blessed with good fortune. Visitors are not allowed inside the main shrine

precinct, most of which is hidden behind huge wooden fences. Ranged along

the sides of the compound are the jūku-sha, which are long shelters where

Japan’s myriad deities stay when they come for their annual conference.

When former princess Noriko married the eldest son of the head priest of

Izumo Taisha – a ‘commoner’ – in 2014 she relinquished her royal status.

The couple now lives in a house near the shrine.

Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo

MUSEUM

(島根県立古代出雲歴史博物館; %0853-53-8600; www.izm.ed.jp; 99-4 Kizuki-higashi,

Taisha-chō; ¥300; h9am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb, closed 3rd Tue of the month)

Just to the right of Izumo Taisha’s front gate, this informative museum

contains modern exhibits on local history. These include reconstructions of

the shrine in its pomp, and recordings of the annual ceremonies held to

welcome the gods to Izumo. There is also a superb collection of bronze from

the ancient Yayoi period.

z Festivals & Events

Kamiari-sai

RELIGIOUS

The 10th month of the lunar calendar is known throughout Japan as Kan-na-

zuki (Month without Gods). In Izumo, however, it is known as Kami-ari-

zuki (Month with Gods), for this is the month when all the Shintō gods

congregate at Izumo Taisha. This series of events, including lighting

bonfires, mark the gods’ arrival in Izumo.

Kamiari-sai runs from the 11th to the 17th of the 10th month according to

the old calendar; exact dates vary from year to year.

4 Sleeping & Eating

For a city with such a well-known tourist attraction, accommodation options

are limited. There are a couple of high-end ryokan with rooms for over

¥25,000 near the shrine, but the area is lifeless after 5pm. Your best bet is to

grab a room at one of the low-cost but comfortable business hotels near

Izumoshi Station, or stay in Matsue.

There are plenty of well-priced restaurants on both sides of Izumo-shi

Station, with seafood a common culinary theme. A higher concentration is

found on the northern side. On the road leading from Izumo Taisha-mae

Station to the shrine, the soba and other restaurants catering to tourists are

overpriced but quite good.

Green Hotel Morris

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

(%0853-24-7700; www.hotel-morris.co.jp/izumo; 2-3-4 Ekiminami-machi; s/d from ¥4900/7800;

piW)

With rooms bigger than typical business hotels in Japan, self-serve pillow

bars, friendly and professional staff, a good communal bath with outdoor

area, and an excellent breakfast buffet (¥570), all at a seriously reasonable

price, it’s hard to go past Green Morris. The hotel is just outside the station’s

south exit.

Gyōza-ya

DUMPLINGS

¥

(餃子屋; %0853-22-5053; 1268-6 Imaichi-chō; gyōza ¥480-880; h6.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am

Fri & Sat)

At that moment when you think you’ll go crazy if you see another Izumo

soba restaurant, proceed immediately to this cheap and late-opening station-

area eatery specialising in humble gyōza: they’re fat and juicy, and crispy

fried on the outside, just the way they should be. Order a beer

and… ‘kampai!’ (cheers).

Uosensuisan Izumo-eki Minamiguchi-ten

IZAKAYA

¥¥

(魚鮮水産出雲市駅南口店; %0853-24-7091; www.chimney.co.jp; 1-2-6 Ekiminami-machi;

dishes ¥575-2380)

This hulking seafood izakaya around the corner from the station is always

loud and packed – you may have to wait. It’ll be worth it if you’re a fan of

all-you-can-drink plans and seafood done every which way. The substantial

picture menu has lots of other popular Japanese treats, from tofu to teriyaki,

on offer.

8 Information

Izumoshieki Information Centre (%0853-30-6015; h8.30am-5pm) Inside Izumo-

shi Station. Little English spoken but there are maps in English and guidance

on taking the bus to the shrine.

Taisha Tourist Information Office (退社観光案内所; %0853-53-2298; 1346-9

Kizuki-minami, Taisha-chō; h9am-5pm) On the main street halfway between Izumo

Taisha-mae Station and the entrance to the shrine.

8 Getting There & Away

The private, old-fashioned Ichibata line starts from Matsue Shinjiko-onsen

Station in Matsue and trundles along the northern side of Shinji-ko to Izumo

Taisha-mae Station (¥810, one hour), with a transfer at Kawato (川跡).

The JR line runs from JR Matsue Station to JR Izumo-shi Station (¥580,

40 minutes), where you can transfer to an Ichibata train to Izumo Taisha-mae

Station (¥490, 20 minutes), a five-minute walk to the shrine entrance, or to a

bus from stop 1 to outside the shrine entrance (¥500, 25 minutes).

Long-distance buses run from a few major cities in the region, including

Hiroshima, Okayama and Kyoto.

Iwami Ginzan 石見銀山

The former Iwami Ginzan (石見銀山) silver mine is a Unesco World

Heritage Site dotted with shrines, mine shafts and an overgrown refinery that

resembles a pyramid. In the early 17th century, the mine produced as much

as 38 tonnes of silver annually, making it the most important mine in the

country at a time when Japan was producing around a third of the world’s

silver every year. The Tokugawa shogunate had direct control over the 500

or so mines in the area. Iwami Ginzan is southwest of Izumo, about 6km

inland from Nima Station on the San-in coast.

1 Sights

The site is spread along a valley, with the small town of Ōmori at its centre.

The main streets and the walking path along the river roughly form a long

narrow loop, with mine shafts, temples, historic residences and ruins dotted

along it and in the wooded hillsides. It’s about 2km from one end to the

other; allow at least four hours to do the loop on foot and to see the various

sites at leisure.

Gohyakurakan

BUDDHIST SITE

(五百羅漢; Ōmori-chō; incl Rakan-ji ¥500)

Crowded into two small caves at Gohyakurakan, there are 500 diminutive

stone statues of the Buddha’s disciples, each showing a different expression

– some smiling, some turning their head to chat to their neighbour. Built to

memorialise fallen silver-mine workers, the collection was completed in

1766, after 25 years of work.

Kumagai Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

(熊谷家住宅; %0854-89-9003; http://kumagai.city.ohda.lg.jp; 63 Ōmori-chō; ¥500; h9.30am-5pm, closed last Tue of the month)

The lovingly restored Kumagai Residence was rebuilt in 1801 after an

earthquake destroyed most of the town the previous year. The house

belonged to a merchant family, who made their fortune as officials in the

silver trade.

Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Centre

MUSEUM

(石見銀山世界遺産センター; %0854-89-0183; http://ginzan.city.ohda.lg.jp; 1597-3

Ōmori-chō; ¥300; h9am-5.30pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb, closed last Tue of the month)

This centre has exhibits with explanations in English on the history of the

mines and the surrounding area.

Ryūgenji Mabu Shaft

MINE

(龍源寺間歩; %0854-82-1600; ¥410; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Mar)

This tunnel into the silver mine has been widened substantially from its

original size, and a guide helps bring it to life. One glance at the old tunnel,

which stretches beyond the fence at the end of the accessible area, should

make most people glad they weren’t born as 17thcentury miners.

Shimizudani Refinery Ruins

HISTORIC BUILDING

(清水谷製錬所跡; %0854-89-9090; Ōmori-machi) F

These stepped, stone remains of a silver-mine refinery, now delightfully

overgrown with apricot trees and grass, have a pyramid-like appearance.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Jōfuku-ji Youth House

HOSTEL

¥

(城福寺ユースハウス; %0854-88-2233; www14.plala.or.jp/joufukuji; 1114 Nima-machi,

Nima-chō; dm with/without meals ¥4500/3000; i)

This is a great option for accommodation in comfortable tatami rooms in a

Buddhist temple, a 20-minute walk east of Nima Station. Meals are

available, and the owners can collect you from the station.

Chaya Yamabuki

CAFE

¥

(茶屋やまぶき; %0854-89-0676; 28 Ōmori-chō; doughnuts ¥150; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon Apr-

Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)

For a drink and a sweet treat, stop in at Yamabuki, where the speciality is

sweet-potato doughnuts. It’s a five-minute walk north of Shimizudani

Refinery Ruins; look for the wooden sign.

8 Information

There is a booth near the Ōmori Daikansho Ato bus stop where you can pick

up an audio guide (¥500) and map, also available at the tourist information

office (%0854-89-0333; 824 Ōmori-chō; h8.30am-5pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr) by the car

park close to Rakan-ji.

Additional information can be found at www.ginzan-wm.jp.

8 Getting There & Around

Iwami Ginzan can be visited as a day trip from Matsue, but it would be a

long day. Buses run to the Ōmori stop about every half-hour from Ōda-shi

Station (¥670, 25 minutes), and from Nima Station (¥480, 15 minutes, four

or five per day). There is also a long-distance bus to Hiroshima.

Within the town area, shuttle buses (¥200, seven minutes, every 15

minutes) connect the Ōmori stop (next to the tourist information office) and

the Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Centre.

While these buses connect the eastern length of the town, access to the

mining area (along the western length) is only on foot or by bike. From the

Ōmori bus stop, it’s a picturesque 30- to 45-minute walk to the Ryūgenji

Mabu Shaft.

Bike rental is available (¥500 for three hours, ¥700 for an electric-assist

bike for two hours). Ask at the tourist information office.

YAMAGUCHI & AROUND

Honshū’s southernmost prefecture doesn’t get the attention it rightfully

deserves. Temperate Yamaguchi Prefecture (山口県; Yamaguchi-ken) is full

of surprises, with white sandy beaches that somehow avoid the float-up

pollution that has spoiled Japan’s coastline, as well as active volcanoes, a

gargantuan limestone cave, rolling hills and farmland, historic villages and

Unesco World Heritage Sites.

Dip your toes in with easy day trips: from Hiroshima to the curvaceous

bridge and scenic samurai town of Iwakuni; or from Kyūshū to the morning

seafood-market hustle in Shimonoseki, pufferfish capital of the world.

DRIVING IN YAMAGUCHI

Be sure to pick up a copy of the excellent Enjoy Driving in Yamaguchi brochure, produced by

the Yamaguchi Prefectural Tourism Federation (www.oidemase.or.jp), from any of the

region’s tourist information centres. It’s a must for anyone considering driving around the

prefecture and contains a wealth of hidden gems.

Yamaguchi 山口

%083 / POP 197,500

Yamaguchi (山口) is a surprisingly small prefectural capital with a handful

of sights, most notably the many baths of Yuda Onsen and the five-storey

pagoda of Kōzan-kōen. If you are whizzing by on the shinkansen between

Hiroshima and Kyūshū during July or August, it’s a worthy stopoff for the

city’s picturesque festivals.

During the 100 years of civil war that bedevilled Japan until the country

was reunited under the Tokugawa in the early 17th century, Yamaguchi

prospered as an alternative capital to chaotic Kyoto. In 1550, Jesuit

missionary Francis Xavier paused here for two months on his way to the

imperial capital, and quickly returned when he was unable to even find the

emperor in Kyoto.

Yamaguchi

1 Top Sights

1 Kōzan-kōen

B1

2 Saikotei

C1

1 Sights

Christian Museum

(see 3)

3 St Francis Xavier Memorial Church

B3

4 Yamaguchi Furusato Heritage Centre

C2

5 Yamaguchi Prefectural Art Museum

B3

6 Yasaka-jinja

C1

5 Eating

7 Sabō Kō

B4

1 Sights

o Kōzan-kōen

PARK

( MAP ; 香山公園; %083-924-9139; 7-1 Kōzan-chō; h24hr) F

North of the town centre is Kōzan Park, where the five-storey pagoda of

Rurikō-ji (瑠璃光寺), a National Treasure dating from 1442, is

picturesquely situated beside a small lake. Its eaves are lit up dramatically at

night (until 10pm). A small on-site museum displays miniatures of the 50-

plus other five-storey pagodas in Japan. The park is also the site of the

Tōshun-ji (洞春寺) and the graves of the Mōri lords.

o Saikotei

CULTURAL CENTRE

( MAP ; 菜香亭; %083-934-3312; www.c-able.ne.jp/~saikou; 1-2-7 Tenge; ¥100; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; p)

This handsome building was originally a high-end restaurant named Gion

Saikotei from 1878 to 1996. In 2004 it was converted into this cultural

museum, where you can observe or learn calligraphy, wear a kimono (¥2800

for two hours), drink green tea (¥410, first and third weekends) or admire the

garden. The homepage lists all that’s on offer; reservations are required for

activities.

St Francis Xavier Memorial Church

CHURCH

( MAP ; ザビエル記念聖堂; %083-920-1549; www.xavier.jp; 4-1 Kameyama-chō; h9am-5pm Thu-Tue) F

Built in 1952 in honour of St Francis Xavier, this church burned down in

1991 and was rebuilt in 1998 with a clinically modern interior and geometric

stained-glass windows. Sitting above the town in Kameyama-kōen, it

resembles a large tent. The ground-floor Christian museum ( MAP ; ¥300;

h9am-5pm) covers the life of Xavier, a Jesuit missionary, and the early history

of Christianity in Japan, mostly in Japanese only. Yamaguchi was a major

centre of Christian missionary activity before the religion was outlawed in

1589.

Steps opposite the church lead uphill to views of Yamaguchi.

Jōei-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(常栄寺; 2001 Miyano-shimo; garden ¥300; hgarden 8am-5pm)

This temple is notable for its simple, stone-dotted Zen garden, Sesshutei,

designed by the painter Sesshū. From the garden, a trail leads uphill through

the woods to several more temples. About 4km northeast of JR Yamaguchi

Station, you can reach the temple by bicycle or taxi (about ¥1300) from

central Yamaguchi. Alternatively, take the train two stops to Miyano, from

where it’s a 1.5km walk.

Yamaguchi Furusato Heritage Centre

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 山口ふるさと伝承総合センター; www.y-densho.sblo.jp; 12 Shimotatekōji;

h9am-5pm) F

The ground floor of this 1886 sake-merchant building (Manabi-kan; まなび

館) has a small display of local crafts, including some Ōuchi dolls

(lacquerware speciality of Yamaguchi), and the building itself is interesting.

Go upstairs to get a closer look at the large dark-wood beams, and look in

the garden for the delightful tea-ceremony room made from old sake-

brewing barrels. In the modern learning centre behind the old building, you

can see lacquerware being made and try it yourself (¥860; by reservation).

Yamaguchi Prefectural Art Museum

GALLERY

( MAP ; 山口県立美術館; www.yma-web.jp; 3-1 Kameyama-chō; ¥300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) This interesting gallery focuses on the art of the region, with three rooms

showing work from its varied permanent collection; leafy grounds featuring

modern sculpture; and regular special exhibitions (admission extra).

2 Activities

Just west of Yamaguchi city is the 800-year-old Yuda Onsen (湯田温泉).

The area is full of hotels and bathing facilities, mostly along a busy main

road, which isn’t really a place for tottering between baths in your yukata.

Still, a soak here is a pleasant way to spend a few hours.

You can take a dip in the six indoor and outdoor baths of Tokiwa (西の雅

常盤; %083-922-0091; www.n-tokiwa.co.jp; 4-6-4 Yudaonsen; not incl towel ¥800; h11am-10pm), use the baths at the large Hotel Kamefuku (ホテルかめ福; %083-922-7000;

www.kamefuku.com; 4-5-2 Yudaonsen; ¥850; h11.30am-10pm) or, for a taste of luxury and

a peaceful garden setting, head to Sansui-en (山水園; %083-922-0560; www.yuda-

sansuien.com; 4-60 Midori-chō; ¥1600; h10am-10pm). All but Tokiwa include a towel.

For a full list and map of the baths and hotels, drop in first at the tourist

information office (%083-901-0150; 2-1-23 Yudaonsen; h9am-6pm, foot bath to 10pm; W) on

the main road, which also has a free foot bath and towels for sale.

JR and Bōchō Buses run regularly to Yuda Onsen bus stop from

Yamaguchi Station (¥220, 15 minutes). They drop you on the main strip,

Yuda Onsen-dōri, a short walk from the tourist office (just keep walking in

the direction of the bus). Yuda Onsen also has a station, one stop on the local

train line from Yamaguchi (¥140) or 20 minutes from Shin-Yamaguchi

(¥240). From the station, follow the quiet red and then yellowish road for

about 1km to get to the busy main intersection, and turn right for the tourist

office.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There’s not a great deal of choice in central Yamaguchi, but nearby Yuda

Onsen is a good base, especially if you like the idea of an on-site onsen with

your accommodation. There are also some good-value Westernstyle chain

hotels clustered around unremarkable Shin-Yamaguchi Station.

Green Rich Hotel Yamaguchi Yuda Onsen

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

(%083-923-6000; 4-7-11 Yudaonsen; s/d from ¥6805/8800; paW)

This smart business hotel, centrally located in Yuda Onsen, has above-

average rooms, a coin laundry and plenty of parking. Guests receive

discounted access (¥450) to a nearby onsen.

o Matsudaya Hotel

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(ホテル松田屋; %083-922-0125; www.matsudayahotel.co.jp; 3-6-7 Yudaonsen; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥25,920; aiW)

At this centuriesold, now-modernised ryokan, you can bathe in history –

right in the tub where once dipped the plotters of the Meiji Restoration. The

ryokan’s gorgeous garden setting, complete with koi, and excellent service

will likely ease any present-day rebellious thoughts.

Matsudaya is on the main drag in Yuda Onsen.

Sabō Kō

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; 茶房幸; %083-928-5522; 1-2-39 Dōjōmonzen; dishes ¥680-980; h11.30am-6pm Wed-

Mon)

A cosy atmosphere prevails in this low-ceilinged little eatery, where

customers perch on wooden stools sipping coffee. The speciality on the

Japanese-only menu is the generous, rustic omuraisu (omelette filled with

fried rice), but there are also curries and soba. Look for the small wood-

covered hut with ceramic pots sticking out of the exterior plasterwork.

Mottimo Pasta Yuda Onsen

ITALIAN

¥¥

(モッチモパスタ 山口湯田店; %083-941-6447; 2-5-41 Yoshikishimo-higashi; pastas

¥850-1200; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Thu-Tue)

In Yuda Onsen, Mottimo offers a variety of Japanese twists on Italian faves,

including eight kinds of delicious hot, buttery, flavoured bread sticks (think

honey, basil and custard cream!), a small selection of pizzas and a range of

delicious pastas. Lunch specials are available and there’s a picture menu.

8 Information

The tourist office (山口観光案内所; %083-933-0090; www.yamaguchi-city.jp; h9am-

6pm) is inside Yamaguchi Station. There is also an office at Shin-Yamaguchi

(%083-972-6373; h9am-6pm), on the 2nd floor, shinkansen exit side.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

It’s a long way from Tokyo to Yamaguchi, even on shinkansen. You can

often get good deals on flights from Haneda to Yamaguchi Ube Airport

(UBJ; www.yamaguchiube-airport.jp) in Ube city, although access is a little inconvenient. There are also direct flights from Incheon in Seoul, South

Korea.

BUS

Chūgoku JR Bus (%083-922-2519; www.chugoku-jrbus.co.jp) runs nine to 11 buses daily to Hagi (Higashi-Hagi Station; ¥1760, free with JR Pass, 1½ hours)

from Yamaguchi Station, some originating at Shin-Yamaguchi. Bōchō Bus

(%0834-32-7733; www.bochobus.co.jp) runs buses to Higashi-Hagi Station (¥2060, 95

minutes, at least hourly) from Shin-Yamaguchi.

TRAIN

Yamaguchi Station is on the JR Yamaguchi line. Shin-Yamaguchi Station is

10km southwest in Ogōri on the San-yō shinkansen line, which connects to

Shimonoseki and Hiroshima, and to Osaka in the east. The Yamaguchi local

service connects the Shin-Yamaguchi and Yamaguchi Stations (¥240, 25

minutes).

8 Getting Around

It’s possible to walk to the central sights from Yamaguchi Station, but it’s

handy to hire a bicycle for the outlying temple areas. Jōei-ji, for example, is

about 4km away (closer to Miyano Station). A taxi might be an easier option

if you don’t want to walk or cycle. For bikes, try Fukutake (福武; %083-922-

0915; 1-4-6 Eki-dōri; per 2hr/day ¥300/700; h8am-7pm) just across from Yamaguchi

Station.

Yuda Onsen is served by bus or train from Yamaguchi and Shin-

Yamaguchi.

YAMAGUCHI BUS PASS

The Yamaguchi Bus Pass (1-/2-/3-day ¥2000/4000/5000) is available to tourists for unlimited

travel by bus in Yamaguchi Prefecture, including Hagi’s Circular Bus. It’s excellent value if you

plan on visiting other cities in the prefecture by bus. A one-way ticket between Hagi and

Shimonoseki or Yamaguchi costs about the same as a one-day pass. Purchase passes from the

bus counters at Yamaguchi, Shin-Yamaguchi and Shimonoseki Stations, Hiroshima Bus Center

and Hagi Kanko Hotel. Passport required.

Tsuwano 津和野

%0856 / POP 7660

A highlight of this region, utterly delightful Tsuwano (津和野) is a quiet,

700-year-old mountain town straddling a pretty river and boasting an

important shrine, a ruined castle and an evocative samurai quarter. It also has

a wonderful collection of carp swimming in the roadside water channels – in

fact, there are far more carp here than people.

Tsuwano

1 Top Sights

1 Taikodani-Inari-jinja

B3

1 Sights

2 Anno Art Museum

C1

3 Chapel of St Maria

B1

4 Morijuku Museum

C3

5 Nishi Amane Former Residence

B5

6 Tsuwano Catholic Church

C2

7 Tsuwano-jō

A4

4 Sleeping

8 Hoshi Ryokan

C1

9 Noren Yado Meigetsu

C2

10 Shokudō Minshuku Satoyama

B5

11 Wakasagi-no-Yado

C4

5 Eating

12 Pino Rosso

D1

13 Tsurube

C2

14 Yūki

D1

8 Transport

15 SL Yamaguchi

C1

1 Sights

Only the walls and some fine old gates from the former samurai quarter of

Tonomachi (殿町) remain, but it’s an attractive area for strolling. The water

channels that run alongside the picturesque Tonomachi Road are home to

numerous carp, bred to provide food in case of emergency. As you’re

walking, look out for sugidama (cedar balls) hanging outside a few old sake

breweries.

o Taikodani-Inari-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 太鼓谷稲成神社; h24hr, store 8am-4.30pm; p) Within walking distance of town, this thriving shrine, built in 1773 by the

seventh lord Kamei Norisada, is one of the five major Inari shrines in Japan.

Walk up the hillside to it through a tunnel created by hundreds of torii,

which are lit up at night, creating a beautiful sight from the town. At the top

is a grand shrine complex, and fabulous views of the valley and mountains.

To get here, take Tonomachi Road and turn right before the river bridge,

then follow the signs. The steps should take between 10 and 20 minutes to

climb; or you can drive and park on-site.

Morijuku Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 杜塾美術館; 542 Morimura; ¥500; h9am-5pm Sat & Sun) This museum is housed in a 150-year-old building that once served as the

home of a shōya (village headman). Downstairs is a collection of soft-edged

scenes painted by local-born artist Nakao Shō, a roomful of bullfight

sketches by Goya, and a framed set of beautifully embroidered Taishō-era

kimono collars. The caretaker will gladly point out the features of the

building, including the pinhole camera hidden away upstairs.

Tsuwano Catholic Church

CHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 津和野カトリック教会; Tonomachi; h8am-5.30pm Apr-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Mar)

The church here is a reminder of the town’s Christian history. ‘Hidden

Christians’ from Nagasaki were exiled here in the early Meiji period. It’s

interesting to peep inside to see tatami mats instead of pews.

Chapel of St Maria

CHAPEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 乙女峠マリア聖堂, Otometoge Maria Kinenseido; %0856-72-0251; h9am-5pm)

The tiny Maria-dō dates from 1951. More than 150 ‘hidden Christians’ were

imprisoned in a Buddhist temple on this site in the early years of the Meiji

Restoration; 36 died before a law allowing freedom of religion was passed in

1873. A procession is held here on 3 May.

Nishi Amane Former Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 西周旧居; 13-2 Ushiroda Ro; h9am-5pm) F

It’s a pleasant walk down the river from Tsuwano town centre to see the

peaked-roof former residence of Nishi Amane (1829–97), a philosopher and

political scientist prominent in the Meiji government.

Anno Art Museum

GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 安野光雅美術館; %0856-72-4155; 60-1 Ushiroda; ¥800; h9am-4.45pm, closed 2nd Thu in Mar, Jun, Sep & Dec)

Tsuwano-born Anno Mitsumasa is famous for his wonderfully detailed

illustrated books, including Anno’s Alphabet and Anno’s Journey. You can

see his work at this traditional-looking white building near the station, where

the large collection is rotated throughout the year.

Tsuwano-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 津和野城; 477-20 Ushiroda; chairlift one way ¥450; hchairlift 9am-4.30pm, irregular hours winter)

The broken walls of Tsuwano-jō brood over the valley. A slightly rickety

chairlift takes you slowly up the hillside, and there’s a further 15-minute

walk through the woods to the castle ruins. There’s nothing here but the

walls, but there are of course great views.

2 Activities

Nagomi-no-sato

ONSEN

(なごみの里; www.nagomi-nosato.com; 256 Washibara; ¥600; h10am-9pm Fri-Wed)

After a day of sightseeing, take a soak at this onsen complex. It’s about

2.5km from the centre of town, or a 15-minute walk from the Nishi Amane

Former Residence. Buses do travel here from the station (¥200, eight

minutes), but there are only three a day.

WORTH A TRIP

CHŌMON GŌRGE

If you’re travelling between Yamaguchi and Tsuwano, consider a stop at Chōmon-kyō (長門

峡), a gorge with a walking track, waterfalls, swimming pools and beautiful colours in autumn.

The gorge entrance is just near Chōmon-kyō station on the JR Yamaguchi line.

z Festivals & Events

Sagi-mai Matsuri

DANCE

(hJul)

The Heron Dance Festival sees processions of dancers dressed as herons on

20 and 27 July. The birds are a symbol of Tsuwano.

4 Sleeping

You could see Tsuwano on a day trip from Yamaguchi, but staying the night

gives you the chance to enjoy one of the town’s minshuku or ryokan and a

walk through the quiet lamp-lit streets in the evening. For information in

English, go to www.gambo-ad.com/english and click on ‘Tsuwano’ – a few

of the local ryokan are listed.

Shokudō Minshuku Satoyama

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 食堂民宿 さと山; %080-1913-9396; www.genki-ya.com/sato; 345

Washibara; s/tw from ¥2700/4700; paiW#)

Satoyama has a spectacular countryside setting. The Japanese-style rooms

have mountain views and strong wi-fi, though neglected shared bathrooms.

The English-speaking owner cooks decent meals and there is a free-use

clothes washer. The mountain-hugging road to Satoyama is flat and easy on

a bike; it’s walkable, but unlit at night. Look for the white house, blue noren

and red banners.

o Hoshi Ryokan

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 星旅館; %0856-72-0136; 53-6 Ushiroda; r per person incl meals ¥7500; W) You’ll get a warm, family welcome at this big, creaky minshuku located a

minute from the station. The tatami rooms are spacious and there’s a shared

family-style bathroom.

Noren Yado Meigetsu

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; のれん宿明月; %0856-72-0685; 665 Ushirodaguchi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥10,800; aW)

This is a traditional ryokan on a narrow lane in the Tonomachi area. Fusuma

(sliding screen doors) glide open in the rooms to reveal a garden, and there

are soothing, wood-panelled shared bathrooms. Some rooms have private

bathrooms. Look for the old-fashioned gate with a red-tiled roof.

Wakasagi-no-Yado

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 民宿わかさぎの宿; %0856-72-1146; 98-6 Morimura-guchi; r per person incl 2 meals ¥8000)

This well-kept minshuku is on the main road south of the Tonomachi district.

Bathrooms are shared. Walking from the station, look for the building with a

diamondpattern tile design on the facade and a curtain with a picture of a

heron.

5 Eating

There are a few cafes and eateries on the main Tonomachi street, and more

along the (less picturesque) street that runs directly south from the station.

Not many places open at night as people tend to eat at their accommodation.

Restaurants may also close if it’s quiet, especially during winter.

o Tsurube

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; つるべ; 384-1 Ushoroda-guchi; dishes ¥600-1050; h11am-4pm Sat-Thu) The speciality here is fresh wheat noodles handmade on the premises, going

into filling dishes such as sansai udon (noodles with wild vegetables) and

umeboshi udon (noodles with dried plum). For a little extra, have a side of

omusubi (rice ball).

Tsurube can be found next to a small graveyard.

Yūki

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 遊亀; %0856-72-0162; 271-4 Ushiroda; meals ¥1400-2800; h10.30am-3pm)

The Tsuwano teishoku (a carp-themed sampler of local dishes) is

recommended at this elegantly rustic restaurant, which has wooden tables

and the sound of running water. There are koi (carp) in a pool in the floor,

and more on the menu. Look for the old-fashioned building with a small pine

tree outside. Dinner by reservation only.

Pino Rosso

ITALIAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ピノロッソ; %0856-72-2778; www.pinorosso.jp; 284 Ushiroda; lunch/dinner set menu from ¥1300/1700; h10am-9pm Fri-Wed)

The menu at this modern cafe-restaurant includes pastas and pizzas, plus

there’s a range of sweet bready items you can have with your coffee.

Reservations are recommended in the evening.

8 Information

MONEY

The only convenience store with an ATM is outside Tsuwano Bus Centre.

Post Office (297 Ushiroda Ro; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri; ATM 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 1pm

Sun) Has an ATM accepting international cards.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Office (津和野町観光協会; %0856-72-1771; www.tsuwano-

kanko.net; h9am-5pm; W) Immediately to the right as you exit the station. Basic

English is spoken and there are maps in English, a rest area and free wi-fi,

accessible even when closed.

8 Getting There & Away

Tsuwano is on the JR Yamaguchi line, which runs from Shin-Yamaguchi and

Yamaguchi in the south, to Masuda on the Sea of Japan coast (which

connects to the San-in line). The Super Oki service from Yamaguchi or Shin-

Yamaguchi will shave about 25 to 35 minutes off the trip, but costs more

than double the standard fare (or free for JR Pass holders).

Masuda ¥580, 45 minutes

Shin-Yamaguchi ¥1140, 1¾ hours

Yamaguchi ¥970, 80 minutes

Long-distance buses go from the Tsuwano Bus Centre (Takaoka) to

Higashi-Hagi (¥2190, 1¾ hours, five daily 8.10am to 5.10pm; JR passes not

valid). There are also overnight buses to Kōbe.

8 Getting Around

Most attractions are within walking or cycling distance of the station. There

is a local bus service, but it’s not of much use to travellers and runs only a

few times a day. The easiest way to explore is to rent a bike from Kamai (貸

自転車かまい; Takaoka; bike hire per 2/24hr ¥500/800; h8am-sunset), across from the

station.

Hagi 萩

%0838 / POP 49,580

The jewel in Yamaguchi’s crown, Hagi (萩) is known for producing some of

the finest ceramics in Japan and has a well-preserved old samurai quarter.

During the feudal period, Hagi was the castle town of the Chōshū domain,

which, together with Satsuma (corresponding to modern Kagoshima in

southern Kyūshū), was instrumental in defeating the Tokugawa government

and ushering in a new age after the Meiji Restoration. The importance of

Hagi’s role in the modernisation of Japan was recognised in 2015 by

Unesco, which decreed World Heritage status on five historical industrial

sites.

Western and central Hagi are effectively an island, created by the two

rivers Hashimoto-gawa and Matsumoto-gawa; eastern Hagi (with the major

JR station Higashi-Hagi) lies on the eastern bank of the Matsumoto-gawa.

Hagi’s proximity to the Sea of Japan, quiet pace and bucolic vistas make it

the prefecture’s most worthwhile destination.

Hagi

1 Top Sights

1 Kikuya Residence

B2

2 Tōkō-ji

D1

1 Sights

3 Hagi Museum

B1

4 Hagi Uragami Museum

B2

5 Hagi-jō

A1

6 Hagi-jō Kiln

A1

7 Hanano-e Tea House

A1

8 Shizuki-kōen

A1

9 Shizuki-yama-jinja

A1

4 Sleeping

10 Guesthouse Hagi Akatsukiya

B1

11 Guesthouse Ruco

B2

12 Hagi no Yado Tomoe

C1

13 Hagi Royal Intelligent Hotel

C1

5 Eating

Dining Mameta

(see 13)

14 Hotoritei

B2

15 Maru

C1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 Cafe Tikal

C2

1 Sights

Hagi is a sprawling city, which hugs every inch of land between the

shoreline and its enfolding mountain range. The city’s main areas of interest

are its picturesque samurai district, Jōkamachi (also called ‘Hagi Castle

town’ since its inclusion in the Unesco World Heritage camp) – the streets of

which are lined with whitewashed walls enclosing beautiful villas – and its

World Heritage Sites. Most attractions are spread apart and renting a car or

bicycle can be a good idea.

o Kikuya Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 菊屋家住宅; %0838-25-8282; 1-1 Gofukumachi; ¥600; h8.30am-5.30pm)

As official merchants to the daimyō, the Kikuya family’s wealth and

connections allowed them to build a house well above their station (they

were merchants rather than samurai). This house dates from 1604 and has a

fine gate and attractive gardens, as well as numerous interesting displays of

items used in daily life, including an old public phone box. Don’t miss the

large old maps of Hagi, which show just how little has changed in the town

layout.

o Tōkō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 東光寺; www.toukouji.net; 1647 Chintō; ¥300; h8.30am-5pm) East of the river, pretty Tōkō-ji, built in 1691, is home to the tombs of five

Mōri lords. The stone walkways on the hillside behind the Zen temple are

flanked by almost 500 stone lanterns, which were erected by the lords’

servants.

On 15 August, the lanterns are lit spectacularly at night for Hagi Mantoue.

Shizuki-kōen

PARK

( MAP ; 指月公園; incl Hagi-jō ¥210; h8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb, to 6pm Mar;

p)

Within this park, there’s not much of the old Hagi-jō ( MAP ; 萩城; %0838-25-

1826; 1-1 Horiuchi; incl Shizuki-kōen ¥210; h8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb, to 6pm

Mar) to see, apart from the castle’s typically imposing outer walls and the

surrounding carp-filled moat. The castle was built in 1604 and dismantled in

1874 following the Meiji Restoration. The inner grounds hold a pleasant

park, with spring cherry blossoms; the Shizuki-yama-jinja ( MAP ; 志都岐山

神社); the mid-19th-century Hanano-e Tea House ( MAP ; 花江茶亭; %0838-25-

1750); and other buildings, including a nagaya (Japanese long house) known

as Asa Mōri House.

From the castle ruins, you can climb the hillside to the 143m peak of

Shizuki-yama.

Hagi-jō Kiln

GALLERY

( MAP ; 萩城窯; %0838-22-5226; 2-5 Horiuchi; h8am-5pm) F

Hagi-yaki (Hagi ceramic ware) is noted for its fine glazes and delicate pastel

colours, and connoisseurs of Japanese ceramics rank it as some of the best.

At a number of shops and kilns, including this one within the walls of the old

castle ruins, you can see hagi-yaki being made and browse the finished

products.

The tourist office has a complete list of kilns in the area.

Hagi Uragami Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 山口県立萩美術館・浦上記念館; %0838-24-2400;

www.hum.pref.yamaguchi.lg.jp; 586-1 Hiyako; ¥300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

In this appealing modern building you’ll find a superb collection of ceramics

and woodblock prints, with fine works by Katsushika Hokusai and Utamaro

Kitagawa. There are also regular special exhibitions.

Kasa-yama

MOUNTAIN

(笠山)

About 6km northeast of central Hagi is this 112m dormant volcano. The top

has gorgeous views of the Sea of Japan and a tiny 30m-deep crater. There is

also a walking track around the coast. From late February to late March, a

beautiful grove of camellias blooms here.

The pond at the mountain’s base, Myōjinike (明神池), is connected to the

sea and shelters a variety of saltwater fish. Look and listen for birds in the

surrounding trees.

Unrinji Temple

TEMPLE

(雲林寺; %0838-86-0307; 2489 Kibekami) F

About 22km east of Hagi, this unique temple is dedicated to the humble

moggy and features cats, cats, everywhere! Well, carved ones, anyway.

Serious cat people won’t mind renting a car to get out here.

Hagi Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 萩博物館, Hagi Hakubutsukan; %0838-256-447; www.city.hagi.lg.jp/hagihaku; 355

Horiuchi; adult/child ¥510/100; h9am-5pm; p)

Hagi’s impressive city museum features permanent displays on astrology,

biology and local crafts, and hosts visiting exhibitions.

YAMAGUCHI STEAM TRAIN

The SL Yamaguchi ( MAP ; %0570-00-2486; www.c571.jp; adult/child ¥1660/830; hMar-Nov) steam train trundles through the scenic valleys from Shin-Yamaguchi to Tsuwano between mid-March and late November on weekends and holidays. It’s a fun way to travel and is very

popular; check the latest schedules and book well ahead at JR and tourist information offices.

z Festivals & Events

Hagi Mantoue

CULTURAL

(万灯会, Hagi Lantern Festival; h7.30-10pm 15 Aug)

A promenade of 500 stone lanterns are lit up with candles at Tōkō-ji for the

Hagi Lantern Festival, which honours the spirits of ancestors. The warm

glow on a summer’s night is atmospheric and worth seeking out if you are in

Hagi around this time.

4 Sleeping

Guesthouse Hagi Akatsukiya

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 古民家ゲストハウス萩・暁屋; %050-3624-4625;

www.facebook.com/hagi.akatsukiya.guest.house; 237-1 Hamasakimachi; dm ¥2600-2800; naW) This polished-up Japanese house, just two minutes from the beach, has a

cute garden and soft bunk beds for a tranquil rest. The well-travelled owner

provides good local knowledge, speaks English and rents bikes (¥500 per 24

hours). Akatsukiya is beside a shrine – from the northernmost beach, go

down the road opposite the blue-tiled toilets and cross the sawmill.

Guesthouse Ruco

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; ゲストハウスRuco; %0838-21-7435; www.guesthouse-ruco.com; 92 Karahi-chō; dm/s/d with shared bathroom ¥2900/4900/7900; naW)

Ruco is a modern wonderland of handmade furniture and vintage decor,

effortlessly stylish and minimalist from the cafe-bar to the bathrooms.

Cramped but clean bunk beds have personal curtains, while the Japanese-

style doubles are spacious. Helpful staff speak some English. Exit left from

Hagi Bus Centre and then left again.

Hagi Royal Intelligent Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; 萩ロイヤルインテリジェントホテル; %0838-21-4589; www.hrih.jp; 3000-5

Chintō; s/d/tw incl breakfast from ¥6455/8100/10,500; naiW)

Walk out of Higashi-Hagi Station and straight into this modern hotel. The

large rooms have some quirky features – the magnetic dartboard and puzzles

will keep you entertained – plus spacious showers that spray you at all

angles. There’s an onsen on-site and some staff members speak English.

It also has a smart Japanese restaurant, Dining Mameta.

o Hagi no Yado Tomoe

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 萩の宿常茂恵; %0838-22-0150; http://tomoehagi.jp; 608-53 Kōbō-ji Hijiwara; r from

¥22,245; naiW)

The finest inn in Hagi, the historic Tomoe offers gorgeous Japanese rooms

with garden views and luxurious baths, and beautifully prepared cuisine.

Prices vary according to season, and there are discounted plans on the

website (if you don’t read Japanese, it may be easier to reserve via email).

Cross the bridge from the station and take the road along the river.

o Hagi Kankō Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(萩観光ホテル; %0838-25-0211; www.hagikan.com; 1189 Chintō; r from ¥15,120; pa)

At the base of Kasa-yama, this solid tourist hotel has wonderfully friendly

yet formal staff who’ll do anything to assist, even if English is a challenge

for them. Smart, ryokan-style rooms have beautiful views over the bay to the

mountains in the distance, as does the gorgeous rotemburo.

5 Eating & Drinking

Hagi Seaside Market

SEAFOOD

¥

(道の駅 萩しーまーと; %0838-24-4937; http://seamart.axis.or.jp; 4160-61 Chintō; h9.30am-

6pm)

There’s all manner of fresh and wild delights to sample at this busy market,

with plenty of eateries as well as straight-from-the-source sellers in case

you’re planning your own barbecue. Even if you just come for a gander, it’s

a good taste of local Hagi life.

o Hotoritei

CAFE

¥¥

( MAP ; 畔亭; %0838-22-1755; www.facebook.com/hotoritei; 62 Minami-Katakawa; meals ¥1200-

1850; h11am-4.30pm Fri-Wed Feb-Dec)

A tranquil rest stop near the Jōkamachi area, Hotoritei is within a large

house surrounded by gardens. It mainly serves coffees, teas and cakes – try

the fluffy, cream-filled matcha roll. There are a few lunch sets, and the menu

has some pictures. Look for the entrance set back from the road, next to

Sam’s Irish pub.

Maru

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP ; まる; %0838-26-5060; 78 Yoshida-chō; dishes ¥750-1850; h5-11pm Mon-Sat)

This lively izakaya specialises in dishes prepared using fresh local produce.

There’s a predictable seafood theme, with lots of sushi and sashimi to enjoy,

but a range of other hot items are available. Reservations recommended on

weekends.

Dining Mameta

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; ダイニング まめた; %0838-21-4689; http://diningmameta.com; 2nd fl, Hagi Royal

Intelligent Hotel, 3000-5 Chintō; meals ¥600-1380; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10.30pm)

This smart Japanese hotel restaurant, adjacent to Higashi-Hagi Station,

happily welcomes international guests to sample its fresh local cuisine,

including sushi, sashimi, salads and daily specials.

Cafe Tikal

CAFE

( MAP ; 長屋門珈琲・カフェティカル; %0838-26-2933;

www.facebook.com/nagayamoncoffee.cafetikal; 298-1 Hijiwara; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun) Through the old gate of the Kogawa family residence is this small cafe with

large windows overlooking a pleasingly unkempt garden. Sit among the

games and books at one of the wooden tables and choose a coffee (from

¥400) from a range of 20 bean varieties. A toasted almond Bavarian cake is

the speciality accompaniment.

8 Information

The tourist information office (萩市観光案内所; %0838-25-3145;

www.hagishi.com; h9am-5.45pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb) is located inside Higashi-

Hagi Station. Staff speak English and provide a good English cycling and

walking map. They offer a free service with associated hotels (listed online)

to store your luggage at the station and then later deliver it to your

accommodation in time for check-in.

There’s another tourist office near Hagi Station (萩駅観光案内所; %0838-

25-1750; 3537-3 Tsubaki; h9am-5.45pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb).

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Bus connections from Higashi-Hagi Station, via Hagi Bus Center (11-2

Karahimachi), include:

Shin-Yamaguchi Bōchō Bus ¥2060, 95 minutes, at least hourly; Super Hagi

Bus ¥1550, 80 minutes, every one to two hours

Tsuwano ¥2190, 1¾ hours, five daily

Yamaguchi ¥1760 (free with JR Pass), 1½ hours, four daily

TRAIN

Hagi is on the JR San-in line, which runs along the coast from Tottori and

Matsue. Get out at Higashi-Hagi Station for the main sights. Local services

between Shimonoseki and Higashi-Hagi (¥1940) take up to 3½ hours,

depending on transfers. If you’re going to Tsuwano from Higashi-Hagi, go

by train up the coast to Masuda (¥970, 1¼ hours), then change to the JR

Yamaguchi line (¥580, 40 minutes) or Super Oki (¥580, 30 minutes) for

Tsuwano. All these journeys are free with a JR Pass. If you have to wait long

transferring at sleepy Masuda, try the hidden restaurant street one block

north of the station.

8 Getting Around

It’s easy to walk around central Hagi and the Jōkamachi area, but many

sights, including the World Heritage locations, are on the edges of town. It

helps to have wheels of some kind.

BICYCLE

Smile Rental Bike (スマイル貸自転車; %0838-22-2914; bike hire per 1/24hr

¥200/1000; h8.30am-5.30pm) is the first of two rental sheds directly left as you exit

Higashi-Hagi Station. A wide range of bikes is available, including child

carriers. Smile allows taking bikes overnight.

Another Smile branch (スマイル貸自転車; %0838-22-2914; 83-27 Hidori

Horiuchi; bike hire per 1/24hr ¥200/1000; h8.30am-5.30pm) is just south of the castle

ruins, if you are staying nearby and want to check in your luggage first.

BUS

The handy Māru Basu (まぁーるバス; Circular Bus; 7am to 6pm) takes in

all of central Hagi’s main attractions. There are east- (東回り) and west-

bound (西回り) loops, with services every 30 minutes at each stop. One trip

costs ¥100, and one-/two-day passes cost ¥500/700. Both routes stop at

Higashi-Hagi Station.

Shimonoseki 下関

%083 / POP 268,620

At the southwestern tip of Honshū, Shimonoseki (下関) is on the visitor

radar for an early-morning meal at its buzzing seafood market – the town is

famous for its fugu, the potentially lethal pufferfish. Separated from Kyūshū

by a narrow strait, the town is also known to Japanese for a decisive 12th-

century clash between rival samurai clans. Nowadays it’s friendly fireworks

that sometimes take place across the waters, and you can even walk to

Kyūshū through an underwater tunnel, with a foot on each side of the border.

Shimonoseki is also an important connecting point to South Korea.

Shimonoseki

1 Top Sights

1 Karato Ichiba

E3

1 Sights

2 Akama-jingū

E2

3 Hino-yama-kōen

H2

4 Sleeping

4 Dormy Inn Shimonoseki

A2

5 Hinoyama Youth Hostel

H2

6 Kaikyō View Shimonoseki

H2

5 Eating

Kaiten Karato Ichiba Sushi

(see 1)

7 Kamon Wharf

D3

8 Yabure-Kabure

B1

1 Sights

The area around Shin-Shimonoseki shinkansen station, where many visitors

arrive, has little to offer by way of sights, services and restaurants. To

explore the area, you need to change to a local train and head to

Shimonoseki Station, two stops away.

Chōfu (長府), east of Shimonoseki Station along the coastal road, is home

to the old castle-town area. While little remains of the castle itself, there are

earth walls and samurai gates, several temples and shrines, and inviting

narrow streets, making it an atmospheric spot for a wander.

o Karato Ichiba

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 唐戸市場; www.karatoichiba.com; 5-50 Karato; h5am-1pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

A highlight of a trip to Shimonoseki is an early-morning visit to the Karato

fish market. It’s a great opportunity to try sashimi for breakfast or lunch, and

fish doesn’t get any fresher than this – a fair bit of it will still be moving.

The best days to come are Friday to Sunday, when stallholders set up tables

selling bentō of sashimi and cooked dishes made from the day’s catch. Note

that the market is closed on some Wednesdays.

You can take away meals or eat at the counters on the mezzanine level.

Buses to Karato (¥220) leave from outside the station and take about seven

minutes; the ‘Karato’ stop is announced in English.

Akama-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 赤間神宮; 4-1 Amidaiji-chō; h24hr) F

This shrine is dedicated to the seven-year-old emperor Antoku, who died in

1185 in the battle of Dan-no-ura. On the left is a statue of Mimi-nashi Hōichi

(Earless Hōichi), the blind bard whose musical talents get him into trouble

with ghosts in a story made famous by Lafcadio Hearn.

The bright vermilion shrine is between Karato and Hino-yama, about a

five-minute walk from the Karato market area. Night lights emphasise its

deep red colours. From the station, get off the bus at the Akama-jingū-mae

bus stop (¥260, 10 minutes).

Hino-yama-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 火の山公園) About 5km northeast of Shimonoseki Station, this park has superb views

over the Kanmon Straits from the top of 268m-high Hino-yama. To get to

the lookout’s ropeway (火の山ロープウエイ; %083-231-1351; one-way/return

¥300/500; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon Mar-Nov), get off the bus at Mimosusōgawa (¥260,

12 minutes). From here it’s a steep 10-minute walk to the ropeway entrance.

There are also buses from Shimonoseki Station (stop 3) that can drop you at

the Hino-yama ropeway stop (¥260, 15 minutes, hourly).

z Festivals & Events

Kanmon Straits Fireworks Festival

FIREWORKS

(Hanabi Taikai; h13 Aug)

A spectacular fireworks display occurring on both sides of the straits at the

same time.

Sentei Festival

CULTURAL

(4-1 Amidaiji-chō; h2-4 May)

Held at Akamajingū to remember the Heike women who worked as

prostitutes to pay for rites for their fallen relatives. On 3 May, women

dressed as Heian-era courtesans form a colourful procession at the shrine.

4 Sleeping

o Hinoyama Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 火の山ユースホステル; %083-222-3753; www.e-

yh.net/shimonoseki; 3-47 Mimosusōgawa-chō; dm/tw ¥3500/8000; niW)

Amazing views of the straits and welcoming service make this one of the

best youth hostels in western Honshū. You can take a bus from the station to

the Hino-yama ropeway stop (¥260, 15 minutes, hourly), from where it’s a

short walk. Note that the caretakers sometimes pop out – let them know if

you’re coming to drop off your bags.

Dormy Inn Shimonoseki

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ドーミーイン下関; %083-223-5489;

www.hotespa.net/hotels/shimonoseki; 3-40 Shinmachi; s/d from ¥9445/14,395; naiW) This modern hotel gets a vote for having a top-floor onsen, where you can

look out over the straits and bathe under a fugu-shaped lantern. Rooms are

stylish, though small, and it’s in a good central location. There’s a courtesy

shuttle to the station in the morning and from the station in the evening

(though it’s not far to walk).

Kaikyō View Shimonoseki

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 海峡ビューしものせき; %083-229-0117; www.kv-

shimonoseki.com; 3-58 Mimosusōgawa-chō; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥10,800; paW) Perched up on Hino-yama, Kaikyō View has professional service and a

choice of Japanese- or Western-style rooms, all with water views. Some of

the Japanese-style rooms don’t have private bathrooms. The hotel has a

fabulous onsen with sea views – nonguests can also use it from 11am to 4pm

Thursday to Tuesday (¥720, last entry 3pm).

5 Eating

There are few noteworthy restaurants outside and around the station (apart

from in the shopping centres), with plenty more options at Kamon Wharf

and in the nearby Karato fish market. Note that whale meat (kujira) is on the

menu at many seafood places in Shimonoseki. Check for くじら or クジラ

if you’d rather avoid it.

Kaiten Karato Ichiba Sushi

SUSHI

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 海転からと市場寿司; www.kaitenkaratoichibazusi.com; 2nd fl, 5-50

Karato; dishes ¥160-600; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm)

This conveyor-belt sushi restaurant on the 2nd floor, right above the fish

market, is a great place to get your hands on the freshest fish without

needing to know what they’re all called. It’s closed when the market closes

on some Wednesdays. Cash only.

Kamon Wharf

SEAFOOD

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %083-228-0330; 6-1 Karato-chō; h9am-3pm & 5-10pm) Eateries and shops here specialise in local goodies. Seekers of only-in-Japan

culinary experiences can look out for the uni-flavoured ice cream (うにソフ

トクリーム; sea urchin) and fugu burgers (ふぐバーガー).

o Yabure-Kabure

SEAFOOD

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; やぶれかぶれ; %083-234-3711; www.yaburekabure.jp; 2-2-5 Buzenda-

chō; lunch sets ¥3240, dinner sets ¥5400-12,960; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm)

There’s only one thing on the menu in this boisterous spot: pick from a range

of fugu sets, such as the dinner Ebisu course, which features the cute little

puffer in raw, seared, fried and drowned-in-sake incarnations, or lunchtime

tetsuyaki setto (set meal with grilled fugu). You can also order individual

dishes. Look for the blue-and-white pufferfish outside.

8 Information

Shimonoseki Station Tourist Information Office (下関駅観光案内所;

%083-232-8383; www.city.shimonoseki.lg.jp; h9am-6pm) Just downstairs upon exiting the ticket barriers, opposite a supermarket. English is spoken.

Shin-Shimonoseki Station Tourist Information Office (%083-256-3422; h9am-

6pm) A small booth as you exit the ticket gates.

8 Getting There & Away

BOAT

Kanmon Kisen (%083-222-1488; www.kanmon-kisen.co.jp) ferries run about every 20

minutes (6am to 9.30pm) from the Karato wharf area of Shimonoseki to

Mojikō in Kyūshū (adult/child ¥400/200, five minutes).

FERRIES TO KOREA

The Shimonoseki International Ferry Terminal (下関港国際ターミナル; %083-235-6052;

www.shimonosekiport.com) is the boarding point for ferries to Busan, Korea. Check the ferry company websites for the latest schedules. Companies also have offices inside the terminal. The

port website has some information, but it isn’t regularly updated. Shimonoseki has no passenger

ferry services to Shanghai (cargo services only), but Osaka does.

Kampu Ferry (関釜フェリー; %083-224-3000; www.kampuferry.co.jp) operates the

Shimonoseki–Busan ferry. There are daily departures at 7.45pm (gate closes 7pm) from

Shimonoseki, arriving in Busan at 8am the following morning. One-way fares start at ¥9000

(plus a ¥610 terminal fee, payable by cash only at check-in, and a ¥700 fuel surcharge) from

Shimonoseki.

TRAIN

JR Shimonoseki is the end of the San-yō line and connects to the San-in line,

which runs north to Nagato and beyond along the Sea of Japan coast.

JR Shin-Shimonoseki shinkansen station is two stops from JR

Shimonoseki (¥200, 10 minutes).

There are a few restaurants around the spruced-up Shin-Shimonoseki

Station area but little else, and it’s a long walk through a tunnel connecting

the local lines to the shinkansen lines. Trains don’t always connect well so

be prepared for a long and boring wait between trains.

8 Getting Around

Buses to Karato wharf and fish market area (¥220, seven minutes, frequent),

and Chōfu (¥370, 22 minutes, frequent) leave from outside the station at stop

2.

If you’re taking more than a couple of long bus rides in Shimonoseki, pick

up a one-day bus pass ( ichi-nichi furī jōsha-ken; ¥720).

It’s good value – a trip to Chōfu and back alone normally costs more than

¥700 – and it saves you the hassle of paying coins each time you get off the

bus.

A one-day Strait Walking Ticket ( kaikyō sansaku kippu; ¥360) is also

available and covers the Kanmon Tunnel and Karato wharf areas, with good

savings if you take more than two rides.

Buy tickets from the booth at stop 5 of the bus terminal outside the train

station, or at the Karato bus terminal.

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Miyagi Prefecture

Sendai

Matsushima

Ishinomaki

Naruko Onsen

Iwate Prefecture

Morioka

Hiraizumi

Tōno

Sanriku Kaigan

Minami-Sanriku & Kesennuma

Rikuzen-takata & Ōfunato

Kamaishi & Ōtsuchi

Miyako

Aomori Prefecture

Aomori

Hirosaki

Towada-ko

Hakkōda-san

Shimokita Peninsula

Akita Prefecture

Akita

Kakunodate

Tazawa-ko

Nyūtō Onsen

Yamagata Prefecture

Yamagata

Yamadera

Zaō Onsen

Ginzan Onsen

Tsuruoka

Dewa Sanzan

Sakata

Niigata Prefecture

Niigata

Sado-ga-shima

Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen

Naeba

Fukushima Prefecture

Aizu-Wakamatsu

Bandai Plateau

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Why Go?

Stretching out above Tokyo is the fabled Tōhoku (東北; Northeast) –

starring Miyagi, Yamagata, Iwate, Fukushima, Akita and Aomori Prefectures

– where ice monsters and river imps inhabit the imagination (but hopefully

not the onsen). Hugging the west coast is Niigata Prefecture, a skiing and

hiking wonderland that also includes the rugged and remote island of Sado-

ga-shima.

Three national parks, alternating between thick mountain forests, stark

volcanoes and coastal marshes, offer year-round outdoor pursuits, while the

spectacular caldera lakes of Tazawa-ko and Towada-ko welcome

summertime pleasure-seekers. Stylish Sendai is the pick of the prefectural

capitals for those seeking an uncomplicated urban fix.

Feudal-era remnants are present in numerous places – Hiraizumi and

Kakunodate being the most historically notable – and traditional cultures are

alive and well.

This region suffered greatly in the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, and some

coastal areas along the glorious Sanriku Kaigan, will welcome your visit as

they continue to rebuild.

When to Go

Dec–Feb Skiing galore, magnificent winter festivals and atmospheric snow-

covered onsen villages.

Jun–Aug Dry summers, with a feast of food and cultural festivals, and lush

green landscapes.

Sep & Oct Photographers and nature lovers alike flock here for spectacular

displays of autumn foliage.

Best Places to Eat

A Kosendō

A Kadare Yokochō

A Azumaya Honten

A Aji Tasuke

A Mitsutaya

Best Places to Stay

A Komatsukan Kofu-tei

A Tsuru-no-yu Onsen

A Urashima

A Hakoneyama Terrace

A Saikan

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku) Highlights

1 Dewa Sanzan Following the footsteps of the yamabushi (mountain

priests) through these lush, fabled peaks.

2 Kakunodate Wandering the wide, feudal streets lined with cherry

blossoms.

3 Towada-ko Frolicking around this crater lake’s verdant shores in

summer.

4 Yamadera Climbing the 1000 steps to this mountain temple in the

footsteps of the poet Matsuo Bashō.

5 Nyūtō Onsen Soaking your worries away at one of the numerous hot

springs in the mountains above Tazawa-ko.

6 Zaō Onsen Dodging the ‘ice monsters’ at this pretty little onsen and

ski town.

7 Matsushima Whiling away a weekend by this beautiful seaside town.

8 Naeba Shredding this famed mountain’s slopes, or rocking out to

world-class talent at Fuji Rock Festival.

9 Hiraizumi Marvelling at the golden glory of this untouched World

Heritage Site.

a Sanriku Kaigan Exploring one of Japan’s coastal stretches in post-

tsunami rebuild mode.

History

Tōhoku has been populated since at least the Jōmon period (13,000–400

BC), but first entered historical records when, in the 8th century AD, the

newly formed central government in Nara enlisted generals to subjugate the

indigenous Emishi people. By the mid-9th century the land, then known as

Michinoku (literally ‘the land beyond roads’), was tenuously under imperial

control.

In the 11th century the Ōshu Fujiwara clan established a short-lived

settlement at Hiraizumi that was said to rival Kyoto in its opulence.

However, it was the warrior and leader Date Masamune, in the 17th century,

who would bring lasting notoriety to the region. Masamune transformed the

fishing village of Sendai into the capital of a powerful domain. His

descendants ruled until the Meiji Restoration brought an end to the feudal

system, and an end to Tōhoku’s influence, by restoring imperial control.

Blessed with rich alluvial plains, the coast along the Sea of Japan became

an agricultural centre supplying rice to the imperial capital and, as a result,

picked up more influence from Kyoto. Farming was less productive on the

Pacific side, and the coastline was rocky, wind-battered and difficult to

navigate, resulting in a strong culture of perseverance born of hardship and

isolation.

National Parks

Sprawling across Fukushima, Niigata and Yamagata Prefectures, Bandai-

Asahi National Park (磐梯朝日国立公園), at 1870 sq km, is the third-

largest protected area in Japan. The region is defined to the south by the

Bandai-Azuma mountain range and to the north by the holy peaks of Dewa

Sanzan.

Sanriku Fukkō National Park (三陸復興国立公園) runs along the

Pacific coast, from Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture and through Iwate

Prefecture to Kesennuma in Miyagi Prefecture. It is characterised by sheer

cliffs, crashing waves and, to the south, deep inlets and rocky beaches.

Further north, the 855-sq-km Towada-Hachimantai National Park (十

和田八幡平国立公園) is a vast wilderness area of beech forests, volcanic

peaks, crater lakes and alpine plateaus that straddles Akita and Aomori

Prefectures.

The World Heritage–listed Shirakamisanchi (白神山地) is a primeval

beech forest, also on the Akita–Aomori border. One of the last of its kind in

East Asia, it harbours a number of protected species, such as the Asiatic

black bear and the golden eagle.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Decent domestic airports are found in Niigata, Sendai, Akita and Aomori.

BUS

Long-distance buses connect many of the same hubs that the rail network

does. Regional routes take you from hubs to some resort destinations that

lack train access. The Tōhoku Highway Bus Ticket allows for unlimited

bus travel in and between Aomori, Akita, Iwate, Yamagata, Miyagi and

Fukushima Prefectures. Four-/seven-day tickets cost ¥10,000/13,000. See

www.japanbusonline.com.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Exploring the more remote parts of Tōhoku is possible via public transport,

but renting a car is a great way to discover the region. Be sure to confirm

your rental has GPS with English capabilities (most now do). Have patience

and ‘go-yukkuri’ – take your time: speed limits are generally between

40km/h and 80km/h.

Tōhoku has a solid network of tolled expressways and well-maintained

roads, signposted in romaji (romanised Japanese). Traffic is lighter than in

central Honshū, although facilities can be more spread out. Between

November and April roads can be closed by heavy snow and ice.

TRAIN

Though considered remote, Tōhoku has good rail access. The Tōhoku

shinkansen (bullet train) line travels from Tokyo all the way to its northern

terminus Shin-Aomori Station (on the outskirts of the city of Aomori); some

trains continue to Hokkaidō. Key stops (and useful regional transit hubs) en

route include, from south to north: Fukushima, Sendai, Ichinoseki (for

destinations in Iwate Prefecture), Morioka and Hachinohe.

At Morioka, the Akita shinkansen veers west for Akita, via Tazawa-ko

and Kakunodate. The Yamagata shinkansen branches off at Fukushima for

Yamagata. The Jōetsu shinkansen runs from Tokyo to Niigata, via Echigo-

Yuzawa.

The JR Tōhoku main line follows roughly the same route as the Tōhoku

shinkansen, with regular local and express trains as far as Morioka, after

which private lines take over.

Along the Sea of Japan coast, JR limited express Inaho trains run between

Niigata and Akita, via Tsuruoka (the jumping-off point for trips to Dewa

Sanzan) and Sakata.

On the Pacific coast, JR trains go as far as Kesennuma on Sanriku Kaigan,

after which a combination of buses and private train lines fill in the gaps

until Hachinohe, where you can reconnect with the shinkansen network.

JR’s Tōhoku network also includes a number of so-called ‘Joyful Trains’;

these cost more but come with perks like big picture windows and dining

cars serving local cuisine. Some noteworthy ones include the SL Ginga,

Tōhoku Emotion, Resort Shirakami and Genbi Shinkansen.

MIYAGI PREFECTURE 宮城県

When you reach Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県; Miyagi-ken) heading

northbound, you have largely escaped the big-city life. Sendai, the smart

capital, is the most happening city in Tōhoku, especially in summer, but it’s

nonetheless pretty laid-back and hassle-free. The archipelago around

Matsushima has some superb ocean-facing ryokan (traditional Japanese

inns), which make a great base for exploring the rejuvenated post-tsunami

coastline at the southern end of Sanriku Kaigan, while Akiu Onsen and

Naruko Onsen are justifiably popular for weekends in the mountains.

4 Sleeping

Sendai has the best range of hotel accommodation in northern Honshū.

Elsewhere, Naruko Onsen has a wide range of options for rural getaways,

while Matsushima has a long tradition of luxurious, sea-facing ryokan.

JR EAST PASS

The JR East Pass (www.jreast.co.jp) has two options: ‘Niigata & Nagano’ (¥18,000) or

‘Tōhoku’ (¥20,000). Both offer unlimited rail travel around Tokyo and their respective regions.

It’s cheaper than the full JR Pass and good for five flexible days in a 14-day period. Passes can

be purchased from JR East Travel Centres. Passes purchased before entering Japan are ¥1000

cheaper; exchange orders for passes should be surrendered for the actual pass at the JR ticket

windows of Narita Airport station or JR Travel Service Centres at major train stations. Passes

are only valid for foreign passport holders on a temporary visitor visa and do not cover travel

on JR buses.

Sendai 仙台

%022 / POP 1.08 MILLION

The capital of Miyagi Prefecture, Sendai (仙台) is a lively regional city and

the pick of Tōhoku’s urban centres. The city’s wide, tree-lined streets fill up

in summer for spectacular Tanabata Matsuri, one of Japan’s most famous

festivals. At other times the nightlife district is impressive for a relatively

small city, and domestic visitors enjoy making this familiar entry into

Tōhoku life en route to the wilder climes further north. Sendai is also a

popular base for visits to the southern section of Sanriku Kaigan, as well as

to Yamadera and Ginzan Onsen in nearby Yamagata Prefecture.

The samurai benefactor Date Masamune is synonymous with Sendai, and

his lasting legacy is a ruined castle set in pleasant gardens.

History

Sendai, ‘city of a thousand generations’, was established by Date Masamune

in 1600. A ruthless, ambitious daimyō (domain lord), Masamune turned

Sendai into a feudal capital that controlled trade routes, salt supplies and

grain milling throughout much of Tōhoku. The Date family ruled the Sendai-

han until the Meiji Restoration brought an end to the feudal era in 1868.

Central Sendai

1 Top Sights

1 Zuihō-den Mausoleum

B4

1 Sights

2 Sendai Castle Ruins

A4

3 Sendai City Museum

A3

4 Sendai Mediatheque

B2

4 Sleeping

5 Bansuitei Ikoiso

A1

6 Hotel Foliage

C3

7 Hotel Metropolitan Sendai

D3

8 Minshuku Keyaki

B2

9 Westin

C3

5 Eating

10 Aji Tasuke

B2

11 Gengo Chaya

A3

12 Jiraiya

B2

13 Ohisamaya

D3

14 Santarō

B2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

15 Craftsman Sendai

C2

16 Peter Pan

B2

17 Sendai Coffee Stand

B2

7 Shopping

18 Kogensya

B3

8 Transport

19 Bus Stop 34

D2

20 JR Tōhoku Bus Center

D3

Loople

(see 22)

21 Toyota Rent a Car

D3

22 West Bus Terminal

D3

1 Sights

Most sights can be reached by the Loople tourist bus.

o Zuihō-den Mausoleum

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 瑞鳳殿; %022-262-6250; www.zuihoden.com; 23-2 Otamaya-shita, Aoba-

ku; adult/child ¥550/200; h9am-4.30pm Feb-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Jan; gLoople stop 4)

The mausoleum of Date Masamune sits majestically atop the summit of a

tree-covered hill by the Hirose-gawa. Built in 1637 but destroyed by Allied

bombing during WWII, the current building, completed in 1979, is an exact

replica of the original, faithful to the ornate and sumptuous Momoyama

style.

Sendai Castle Ruins

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 仙台城跡; %022-261-1111; 1 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku; gLoople stop 6, regular bus stop Sendai Jō Ato Minami)

Built on Aoba-yama in 1602 by Date Masamune and destroyed during

Allied bombing, Sendai-jō still looms large over the city. Giant moss-

covered walls, as imposing as they are impressive, remain intact and the

grounds offer sweeping views over the city.

Sendai City Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 仙台市博物館; %022-225-3074; 26 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku; adult/child

¥460/230; h9am-4.45pm Tue-Sun; gLoople stop 5)

The city museum offers a comprehensive account of samurai Masamune’s

epic life, as well as displaying more than 13,000 artefacts on loan from the

Date family, with plenty of explanations in English.

Sendai Mediatheque

LIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 仙台メディアテーク; %022-713-3171; www.smt.city.sendai.jp; 2-1

Kasuga-machi, Aoba-ku; h9am-10pm, gallery hours vary) F

Housed in an award-winning structure designed by Japanese architect Itō

Toyō, this cultural hub includes a library, art galleries and event spaces.

Check the website to see if anything is going on when you’re in town.

z Festivals & Events

Sendai Tanabata Matsuri

CULTURAL

(仙台七夕まつり, Star Festival; www.sendaitanabata.com; h6-8 Aug)

The Tanabata Matsuri celebrates a Chinese legend about two stars: Vega, a

king’s daughter, who fell in love with Altair, a common herder. The king

disapproved, so he formed the Milky Way between them. Once a year

magpies are supposed to spread their wings across the universe so the lovers

can meet – traditionally on 7 July (on the old lunar calendar).

Sendai’s Tanabata sees the city’s streets draped with displays of brightly

coloured streamers. Festivities include parades and live performances,

culminating in a mammoth fireworks display on the last night of the festival.

Jōzenji Street Jazz Festival

MUSIC

(定禅寺ストリートジャズフェスティバル; www.j-streetjazz.com; h2nd weekend

Sep)

Hundreds of buskers from across Japan perform in Sendai’s streets and

arcades. Book your accommodation way, way in advance.

WORTH A TRIP

AKIU ONSEN

Wonderful Akiu Onsen (秋保温泉) was the Date clan’s favourite therapeutic retreat, with a

natural saltwater spring that’s said to be a curative for back pain and arthritis. There are dozens

of inns here that offer their baths to day trippers.

Between dips stretch your legs along the rim of Rairai Gorge (磊々峡; Rairai-kyō), a 20m-

deep gorge that runs through the village. Pick up maps and a list of bathhouses at the Tourist

Information Center ( MAP ; 秋保温泉観光案内所; %022-398-2323;

www.akiuonsenkumiai.com; Akiu Sato Center; h9am-6pm; W), where you can also borrow free bicycles (deposit ¥1000). In the hills west of town is Akiu Falls (秋保大滝; Akiu Ōtaki), a 6m-wide, 55m-high waterfall designated as one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls. View the

falls from a scenic outlook, or hike down 20 minutes to the bottom.

Buses leave hourly for Akiu Onsen from stop 8 at Sendai Station’s west bus pool (¥840, 50

minutes). On weekends there are two buses daily that continue to Akiu Falls (¥1100, 1½ hours).

Otherwise catch one of the few buses for the falls from the Akiu Sato Center (¥670, 20

minutes), or borrow a bicycle (it’s a 30km round trip).

4 Sleeping

o Minshuku Keyaki

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 民宿欅; %022-796-4946; www.keyaki2014.com; 13-4 Tachi-machi, Aoba-ku; dm/d ¥2800/5600; aW)

Converted from an old restaurant into the best guesthouse in Sendai, Keyaki

has sleek wooden floors, stylish, spotless dorms and a first-class bar. In the

heart of Kokubunchō, this represents real value and is perfect for solo

travellers or those on a budget.

Dōchū-an Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(道中庵ユースホステル; %022-247-0511; www.jyh.or.jp; 31 Kita-yashiki, Ōnoda, Taihaku-

ku; dm/s ¥3888/4644, breakfast ¥600; pniW)

You’ll need some resolve to find this former farmhouse, but it’s worth it. Go

to Taishidō Station (¥180, eight minutes from Sendai Station) on the JR

Tōhoku line, from where it’s a six-minute walk (get a map at the station).

Trees surround the humble property, which has been cleverly designed to

accommodate independent travellers on a budget. There’s a fantastic cedar

bath.

Hotel Foliage

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルフォーリッジ仙台; %022-221-3939; www.libraryhotel.jp;

4-7-1 Chūō; per person incl breakfast from ¥8000; pnaW)

A step up from a generic business hotel, Foliage is handily located a few

minutes’ walk from the train station on a busy little street. The lobby and

common areas show some design flair, while rooms are basic but

comfortable. An excellent breakfast buffet is served in the sunny ground-

floor dining area.

Bansuitei Ikoiso

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 晩翠亭いこい荘; %022-222-7885; www.ikoisouryokan.co.jp; 1-8-31

Kimachi-dori, Aoba; r per person incl breakfast from ¥8800)

The best ryokan in Sendai is a humble, good-value establishment that will

appeal to those seeking a more character-filled abode than the typical

business hotel. The old creaky floorboards, fragrant oil burners and well-

kept shared bathrooms make it a memorable Japanese experience.

o Westin

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ウェスティンホテル仙台; %022-722-1234; www.westin.com; 1-9-1 Ichiban-chō, Aoba-ku; r from ¥17,700; pnaW)

Set atop a chic shopping complex on the main thoroughfare running through

Sendai, the Westin is the best five-star chain hotel in the whole far north.

The cocktail bar affords magnificent views, while the rooms themselves are

decadently comfortable and elegantly decorated.

Hotel Metropolitan Sendai

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルメトロポリタン仙台; %022-268-2525;

www.sendaimetropolitan.jp; 1-1-1 Chūō, Aoba-ku; s/d from ¥11,100/22,000; naiW) Accessible from the pedestrian walkway attached to Sendai Station, the

Metropolitan is the clear winner among the station business hotels. At the

top end, Japanese-style suites have serene garden views, but even basic

rooms have plush furnishings and are recently renovated.

5 Eating

Gengo Chaya

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 源吾茶屋; %022-222-2830; 1-1 Sakuragaokakōen, Aoba-ku; snacks from

¥350; h11am-6pm; v)

In business for 130 years, this charming teahouse is known for its zunda-

mochi, pounded rice cakes topped with a jam made from fresh soybeans – a

Sendai speciality. The teahouse is on the eastern edge of Nishi Park, with

white noren (sunshade) curtains out front.

o Ohisamaya

VEGETARIAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おひさまや; %022-224-8540; http://ohisamanikoniko.sunnyday.jp; 4-8-17 Chūō, Aoba-ku; meals from ¥1200; h11.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat &

Sun; v)

Vegetable curries, macrobiotic tofu and fresh, colourful salads are the

highlights of this delightful, minimalist cafe, which rotates its menu

regularly from a library of cookbooks on display. The occasional fish

product may sneak into view.

Aji Tasuke

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 味太助; %022-225-4641; www.aji-tasuke.co.jp; 4-4-13 Ichiban-chō, Aoba-

ku; mains from ¥1200, lunch/dinner sets ¥1700/1800; h11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon)

In a city of fans of charcoal-grilled cow’s tongue, this little gyūtan has been

steadily among the top few purveyors for some time now. Perch at the

counter to watch – and smell – the grilling in action. It’s next to a small torii

and usually has a queue.

Jiraiya

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 地雷也; %022-261-2164; www.jiraiya.com; basement fl, 2-1-15

Kokubunchō, Aoba-ku; dishes from ¥1100; h5.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun)

Named after a Song-era fantasy epic, this classic izakaya specialises in

charcoal-grilled kinki (rockfish; also called kichiji), which is nibbled by

sake-sipping customers propped at the bar. Jiraiya’s entrance is on a side

street, marked by a giant red lantern.

Santarō

JAPANESE

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三太郎; %022-224-1671; www.santarou.jp; 1-20 Tachi-machi, Aoba-ku; dishes from ¥1200, sets from ¥1700, kaiseki courses per person ¥8000-16,000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm)

Spectacular evening kaiseki courses and crunch-for-lunch tempura are

served in this elegant traditional building in the heart of Kokubunchō. Best

for dining with two or more.

DELICACIES OF THE DEEP NORTH

Eating in Tōhoku is all about simple seasonal pleasures – the bounty of the land and sea.

Regional delicacies you might encounter include the following:

gyūtan (牛タン) cow’s tongue, grilled over charcoal (Sendai)

jaja-men (じゃじゃ麺) Flat wheat noodles topped with sliced cucumber, miso paste and ground

meat (Morioka)

kamaboko (かまぼこ) Steamed fish paste (Sendai)

kiritanpo-nabe (きりたんぽ鍋) Kneaded rice wrapped around bamboo spits, barbecued over a

charcoal fire then served in a chicken and soy-sauce hotpot with vegetables (Akita)

inaniwa udon (稲庭うどん) Thinner-than-usual wheat noodles (Akita)

wanko-soba (わんこそば) All-you-can-eat noodles (Morioka)

Aomori Prefecture’s seafood is king:

hotate (ホタテ) Scallops

maguro (まぐろ) Tuna; the village of Ōma, at the tip of Honshū, is said to have the finest in the

country

uni (うに) Sea urchin

Yonezawa-gyū (米沢牛) Yonezawa’s premium-grade beef

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Sendai’s Kokubunchō area is Tōhoku’s largest entertainment district. It’s

noisy, slightly chaotic and bright, with everything from hole-in-the-wall bars

and British-style pubs to raging dancing clubs and seedy strip shows. Note

that there are a fair number of hostess and host clubs here, as well as

seemingly ordinary bars, that levy steep cover charges.

o Peter Pan

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ロックカフェ ピーターパン; %022-264-1742; 2-6-1 Chōme, Kokubunchō; h5-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

A music-loving father-and-son team runs this lounge-room-vibe ‘rock’ bar.

Dad provides the soundtrack with his extensive, alternative-rock vinyl

collection, while his son busies himself with the clientele. Coffee, booze,

cake and conversation.

Sendai Coffee Stand

COFFEE

( MAP ; %022-797-1015; www.coffee-stand.com; 1-3-12 Kokubunchō; h10am-7pm) The best coffee in Sendai is brewed at this super-hip, one-room cafe at the

edge of the entertainment district. A small rotating menu of baked goods and

sandwiches keeps the caffeine shakes at bay.

Craftsman Sendai

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; クラフトマン; %050-7576-4480; http://craftsman-sendai.com; 1F, 2-2-38 Chūō, Aoba-ku; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, from 11.30am Sat & Sun)

When there’s a global trend, like craft beer, the Japanese are never far

behind. This small Craftsman outlet (a few are popping up around Japan)

combines casual Italian dining (tapas plate ¥1450) with Japan’s independent

beer scene. Patrons prop at the bar or on leather seats around tiled tables and

talk loudly over indie tunes and the regular chinking of glasses.

7 Shopping

Kogensya

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP ; 光原社 仙台店; %022-223-6674; www.kogensya.sakura.ne.jp; 1-4-10 Ichiban-chō; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Dec, to 6pm Jan-Mar)

Buy handmade wares from all over Tōhoku at this elegant, perfectly curated

shop. It’s a lovely spot to pick up high-quality souvenirs for gifts (which will

be beautifully wrapped while you wait). It’s right on the corner; look for the

sign with an image of a covered bowl.

8 Information

Sendai City Information Center (仙台市観光案内所; %022-222-4069;

www.sentabi.jp; 2nd fl, JR Sendai Station; h8.30am-7pm) Helpful English-speaking staff

dispense maps and brochures for all of Tōhoku.

Sendai International Centre (仙台国際センター; %022-265-2471;

www.aobayama.jp; Aobayama, Aoba-ku; h9am-8pm) English-speaking staff, plus an

international newspaper library and bulletin board.

Sendai City Hospital (仙台市立病院; %022-266-7111, 24hr emergency hotline 022-

216-9960; http://hospital.city.sendai.jp; 3-1 Shimizu-kōji, Wakabayashi-ku; houtpatient service 8.30-11.30am Mon-Fri)

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

From Sendai airport, 18km south of the city centre, flights head to Tokyo,

Osaka, Nagoya, Hiroshima, Sapporo and many other destinations.

The Sendai Kūkō Access line leaves for the airport from Sendai Station

roughly every 20 minutes (¥650, 25 minutes).

BOAT

From the port of Sendai-kō, Taiheyo Ferry (%022-263-9877; www.taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp)

has one daily ferry to Tomakomai on Hokkaidō (from ¥7200, 15 hours), and

three to four ferries a week to Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture (from ¥6700, 22

hours).

Buses leave from stop 34 (Sakurano Department Store) at Sendai Station for

Sendai-kō (¥540, 40 minutes, four daily), but only until 6pm.

BUS

Highway buses depart from the West Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

outside the east exit of the train station, and connect Sendai to major cities

throughout Honshū. Purchase tickets at the JR Tōhoku Bus Center ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 仙台駅東口バス案内所, Highway Bus Ticket Office; %022-256-6646;

www.jrbustohoku.co.jp; Sendai JR Station, east exit; h7am-7pm), by the station’s east exit.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Toyota Rent a Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-293-0100; https://rent.toyota.co.jp; 1-5-3

Tsutsujigaoka, Miyagino-ku; h8am-8pm) has several outlets within a few blocks of the

train station, if you want to visit neighbouring destinations by car.

TRAIN

The JR Tōhoku shinkansen runs at least hourly between Tokyo and Sendai

(from ¥10,890, 1½ to two hours), and between Sendai and Morioka (from

¥5940, 40 minutes to 1¼ hours).

There are several daily kaisoku (rapid trains) on the JR Senzan line

between Sendai and Yamagata (¥1140, 1¼ hours), via Yamadera (¥840, one

hour). Local trains on the JR Senseki line connect Sendai and Matsushima-

kaigan (¥410, 40 minutes); make sure to get one going all the way to Takagi-

machi, or you’ll have to transfer at Higashi-Shiogama.

8 Getting Around

The Loople ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.loople-sendai.jp; single trip/day pass ¥260/620)

tourist trolley leaves from the west bus pool’s stop 15-3 every 20 minutes

from 9am to 4pm, making a useful loop around the city in a clockwise

direction.

Sendai’s single subway line runs from Izumi-chūō in the north to

Tomizawa in the south, but doesn’t cover any tourist attractions; single

tickets cost ¥200 to ¥350.

Matsushima 松島

%022 / POP 14,420

Matsushima (松島) is heavily romanticised by Japanese travellers due to its

status as one of Japan’s Three Great Sights (Nihon Sankei). It was also

immortalised by the poet Matsuo Bashō, who revered its glorious bay’s 260-

odd pine-covered islands, battered by wind and sea to form a kind of Zen

rock garden in the ocean. When the sun sets and a storm rolls in, the effect

on the islands is mesmerising. The main village itself has some fine ancient

temples, impressive ryokan, seafood shacks and a charming seaside feel. Try

to avoid the high-summer weekend crowds.

1 Sights

Matsushima-kaigan, where the sights are, is essentially a small village,

easily navigated on foot from the train station.

Zuigan-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(瑞巌寺; www.zuiganji.or.jp; 91 Azachonai; adult/child ¥700/400; h8am-5pm Apr-Sep, closes earlier Oct-Mar)

Tōhoku’s finest Zen temple, Zuigan-ji was established in AD 828. The

present buildings were constructed in 1606 by Date Masamune to serve as a

family temple and the Hondo (main hall) has been beautifully restored to its

former glory. Visitors pass by a series of dark-wood chambers illuminated by

golden doors painted with exquisite images of flora and fauna. Nearby the

excellent Seiryūden (temple museum) has a number of well-preserved relics

from the Date family, including national treasures.

The temple is 500m north of Matsushimakaigan Station.

Fuku-ura-jima

ISLAND

(福浦島; ¥200; h8am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb)

You can’t miss the 252m-long red wooden bridge connecting Fuku-ura-jima

to the mainland. The shady trails here, which wind around the island through

native pines and a botanic garden, make for a pleasant hour-long stroll.

2 Activities

Matsushima-wan

CRUISE

(松島湾; www.matsushima.or.jp; adult/child ¥1500/750; h9am-3pm)

To get a sense of the bay’s scale and appreciate its dense cluster of pine-

topped islands, which sit like bonsai floating in a giant’s backyard pond,

cruise boats depart hourly from the central ferry pier, completing a 50-

minute loop. Between April and October you can opt for a longer course

(¥2700, 1¾ hours) that goes all the way to Oku-Matsushima.

SENDAI MARUGOTO PASS

The Sendai Marugoto Pass (仙台まるごとパス; adult/child ¥2670/1330) covers unlimited

travel for two days on the Loople tourist bus, Sendai subway and area trains and buses going as

far as Matsushima-kaigan, Akiu Onsen and Yamadera (in Yamagata Prefecture). Pick one up at

JR Sendai Station, or from the ticket machines at Sendai airport.

4 Sleeping

Uchi Matsushima

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(ゲストハウスUchi; %022-765-1397; www.uchimatsushima.com; 121-3 Machiuchi; s/d

¥3800/7200; W)

A super-central location and a friendly communal atmosphere make this

newly built guesthouse the pick of the bunch for budget travellers in

Matsushima. Rooms are small but clean, and the communal bar area is great

for socialising after dark.

Minshuku Kami-no-Ie

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(奥松島 民宿 かみの家; %0225-88-4141; www.okumatsushima.wixsite.com/kaminoie; 16-1

Mura, Miyato, Higashi-Matsushima; per person incl 2 meals ¥8000; pai)

This simple inn has become a symbol of post-tsunami sustainable tourism in

the small community of Higashi-Matsushima, which bore the full force of

the 2011 disaster. The tatami-mat rooms are bright and airy, while the

seafood dinners are salty fresh. The owners also offer fishing tours in

Matsushima Bay.

o Komatsukan Kofu-tei

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(松島小松館 好風亭; %0223-54-5065; www.new-komatsu.co.jp; 35-2 Matsushima; per person

incl 2 meals from ¥16,000; paW)

This classy seaside ryokan has inimitable, understated Japanese style.

Elegant rooms are furnished sparingly with high-quality art and homewares.

The outdoor onsen is pleasant, though small, but the bookable private

outdoor bath with bay views is a treat. The kaiseki meals are as good as

anything you’ll find on your travels.

5 Eating

Matsushima has a few fine casual restaurants clustered near the train station

and ferry terminal; most travellers dine at their acommodation.

Shōkadō

SWEETS

¥

(松華堂菓子店; %022-355-5002; www.facebook.com/shokadomatsushima; 109-Chonai; set

from ¥680; h10am-5pm)

On the 2nd floor, with huge windows overlooking the bay, this light-filled,

minimalist cafe specialises in castella, a moist, sponge-like cake originally

brought to Japan by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century. Other options

include shōkadō pudding (a caramel panna-cotta–like creation) or milky

soft-serve ice cream, all served alongside freshly brewed coffee or green tea.

Aizawa Bakery

BAKERY

¥

(ぱんや あいざわ; %022-354-0233; 156 Chōnai; pastries from ¥180; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Tucked away on a residential street a few blocks back from the main

thoroughfare, this tiny, one-room bakery does a seriously good sourdough,

as well as delectable croissants and pastries worthy of a Parisian

boulangerie. Pick up a few choice items and head for the waterfront.

Santori Chaya

JAPANESE

¥

(さんとり茶屋; %022-353-2622; www.santorichaya.com; 24-4-1 Senzui; oysters from ¥650;

h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue)

Perennial local favourites from land and sea such as kaisen-don (mixed

sashimi on rice) and gyūtan (chargrilled cow’s tongue) feature here, along

with seasonal specialities such as Matsushima’s famous oysters. Seating is

on floor cushions on the 2nd level; try to get a window table. It’s in a beige

building with an indigo banner and has a picture menu.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; 松島観光協会; %022-354-2618;

www.matsushima-kanko.com; 98-1 Azachonai; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat & Sun; W) Inside the sightseeing boat terminal, it has English brochures and

accommodation bookings.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent trains on the JR Senseki line connect Sendai and Matsushima-

kaigan (¥410, 40 minutes).

Sights are at Matsushima-kaigan Station, not Matsushima Station – an

easy mistake. To confuse further, Matsushima is on the Jōban line, while

Matsushima-kaigan is on the Senseki line.

Ishinomaki 石巻

%0225 / POP 147,200

Ishinomaki (石巻) is the largest city on Sanriku Kaigan, a beautiful stretch

of coast that was decimated by the 2011 tsunami. Many travellers move on

quickly, but this easily accessible place is a shining example of creative

urban renewal in post-disaster Japan – loads of hip new businesses are

opening up, inviting visitors to linger longer.

1 Sights

Ishinomori Mangattan Museum

MUSEUM

(石ノ森萬画館; %0225-96-5055; www.mangattan.jp/manga; 2-7 Nakase; adult/child ¥800/200;

h9am-6pm; c)

This popular manga museum’s other-worldly spaceship structure survived

the tsunami largely intact, while the collection has since been restored and

rejuvenated. The work of influential manga-ka (cartoonist) and local hero

Shōtarō Ishinomori, most famous for creating the Cyborg 009 and Kamen

Rider series, is the star attraction. It’s a 20-minute walk from the train

station.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are only a handful of decent places to stay here, mostly business hotels

near the station, but a few guesthouses are starting to emerge. Ask at the

Tourist Information Center for the latest listings.

Long Beach House

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(ロング ビーチ ハウス; %0225-98-4714; www.longbeachhouse.wixsite.com/lbh314; 47-1

Watanoha Hamasone-no-ichi; dm/s/d from ¥2200/5000/7200; paW)

Part of the new generation of socially conscious creatives setting up shop in

Ishinomaki, the folk at Long Beach House have built a minimalist

guesthouse with a terrific boho vibe. On-site is a Japanese and modern

Spanish restaurant serving stiff cocktails, which may seduce you to spend

the night.

Common-ship Hashidori

FOOD HALL

¥

(%080-6006-9054; www.facebook.com/commonship.hashidori; 8-9 Chūō 2-chōme; burgers from

¥800; h11am-10pm)

Constructed haphazardly from caravans, pine beams, fake turf and fairy

lights, this pop-up community dining and gathering space is emblematic of

Ishinomaki’s reconstruction. Burgers and other street-food-style bites are

available all day long, while soulful tunes play to audiences of hip young

things into the evening.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; 石巻観光案内所; %0225-93-6448; www.i-

kanko.com; h9am-5.30pm) Inside the JR train station.

8 Getting There & Away

A rapid service on the JR Senseki line connects Sendai and Ishinomaki

(¥840, one hour). Direct highway buses for Ishinomaki depart roughly twice

an hour from stop 33 in front of Sendai Station (¥800, 1½ hours).

THE GREAT EAST JAPAN EARTHQUAKE

At 2.46pm (JST) on 11 March 2011, a magnitude 9.0 earthquake struck off the eastern coast of

Tōhoku.

During the Great East Japan Earthquake (東日本大震災; Higashi-nihon Dai-shinsai) – the

most powerful to hit Japan since record keeping began in the early 20th century, and among the

five strongest recorded worldwide – the ground shook for a mind-boggling six minutes. It is a

testament to Japan’s earthquake preparedness that many people received a warning on their

mobile phones one minute prior to the event, with the same warning automatically stopping

high-speed train services: both measures saved countless lives. Due to stringent building codes,

few structures collapsed from the shaking.

It was, however, the series of tsunami that followed just 15 minutes later, with wave heights

of a staggering 38m in some areas, that caused the devastation. Coastal communities along a

500km stretch of Sanriku Kaigan were levelled completely and more than 15,000 lives were

lost.

Travelling in the Region

More than seven years on, the reconstruction efforts in this beautiful coastal region have been a

testament to the resilience and community spirit of the Japanese people. Domestic tourists

continue to support the rebuilding by spending time and money here – tourism is seen as one of

the best ways to revitalise the local economies.

Ever-popular Matsushima, partly protected by one of Japan’s most beautiful bays, escaped

relatively unscathed, but other villages were far less fortunate. Oku-Matsushima, Ishinomaki,

Minami-Sanriku, Kamaishi, Ofunato and Rikuzen-takata were near annihilated, but new

guesthouses, onsen hotels, restaurants and community tourism initiatives have emerged and are

helping survivors to move on with purpose.

It’s a powerful experience to rent a car and drive along the coast here, visiting the towns that

were most affected by the disaster – many travellers count it as a highlight of their visit to

Japan.

Rail services are continuing to improve, with the entire Sanriku Railway from Ōfunato to

Kuji reopened in 2019.

Naruko Onsen 鳴子温泉

%0229 / POP 8000

A lovely day trip or overnighter from Sendai, Naruko Onsen (鳴子温泉) is a

spread-out rural town known for the magnificent Naruko Gorge. Most

visitors take a leisurely hike through the 100m-deep gorge followed by a

soak in one or more of the region’s nine distinct springs – the waters of each

have different compositions of minerals and thus different healing qualities.

Take advantage of the Yumeguri ticket (¥1300), which you can buy at the

Tourist Information Center, to visit the baths at several different inns. The

town is also known for its kokeshi (traditional wooden dolls).

2 Activities

o Taki-no-yu

ONSEN

(滝の湯; 84 Yumoto Narukonsen; ¥150; h7.30am-10pm)

This fabulously atmospheric wooden bathhouse has hardly changed in 150

years and is a sheer delight. Water gushes in from hinoki (cypress) channels,

carrying with it various elements and minerals, including sulphur, sodium

bicarbonate and sodium chloride. This onsen is particularly famous for its

therapeutic relief of high blood pressure and hardened arteries.

Naruko Gorge

HIKING

(鳴子峡, Naruko-kyō)

Northwest of Naruko town, this 100m-deep gorge is particularly spectacular

in autumn when the leaves change colour. Only some sections of the trail

were open at the time of writing, due to landslides – check with the tourist

office for maps and up-to-date trail information.

Another trail can be reached from Nakayama-daira Onsen Station, a short

bus trip from Naruko Onsen Station (¥180, five minutes) or an easy, well-

signed walk. This path also intersects with a 10km stretch of the old foot

highway, walked by the haiku poet Matsuo Bashō, which is now a hiking

trail.

BEST ONSEN

A Nyūtō Onsen

A Aoni Onsen

A Ginzan Onsen

A Zaō Onsen

A Akiu Onsen

4 Sleeping & Eating

You can eat a decent meal at one of the restaurants near the train station, or

at the cafe at the Tourist Information Center. If you’re staying overnight, fine

meals will be included at your accommodation.

Ryokan Onuma

RYOKAN

¥¥

(旅館大沼; %0229-83-3052; www.ohnuma.co.jp; 34 Narukonsen Akayu, Osaki; per person incl 2

meals from ¥16,000; paW)

Alight the train at Naruko Goten-yu and walk 500m west until you reach this

peaceful ryokan with an indefatigable staff who will soak, feed and replenish

you in style. Each room has access to its own private onsen bath, plus there

is an outdoor onsen on the forest floor. Rooms are large and spotless.

Yusaya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(ゆさや旅館; %0229-83-2565; www.yusaya.co.jp; 84 Yumoto; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥12,800; piW)

Among the many charms of this country inn is its impressive rotemburo

(outdoor bath) in an isolated building surrounded by a dense thicket of trees.

The main building, dating to 1936, has tatami-lined sleeping quarters

separated from Western-style sitting areas by shoji (sliding rice-paper screen

doors). Meals are elegant banquets of river fish and mountain vegetables.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (鳴子観光・旅館案内センター; %0229-83-3441;

www.naruko.gr.jp; h8.30am-6pm) Located just outside the train station. Offers

walking maps of the town and of nearby Naruko Gorge.

8 Getting There & Away

There is an hourly service on the JR Tōhoku shinkansen between Sendai and

Furukawa (¥1620, 15 minutes). The JR Tōhoku line also runs regular

services from Sendai to Furukawa via Kogota (¥970, one hour). Hourly

trains run on the JR Rikū-tō line between Furukawa and Naruko Onsen

(¥670, 45 minutes).

IWATE PREFECTURE 岩手県

The glorious temples of Hiraizumi are among only a few physical reminders

of the turbulent feudal past of Iwate Prefecture (岩手県; Iwate-ken), but

there are nonetheless plenty of opportunities for exploration in Japan’s

second-largest prefecture. Sleepy valleys, a rugged coastline and high, lush

mountains attract discerning hikers and those looking for a tree-change, but

it’s perhaps the Tōno Valley, where countless folk tales are still born and

told, where travellers will glimpse that all-too-rare Lost Japan.

The coastal communities here have regrouped admirably since the Great

East Japan Earthquake and visitors with their own wheels, or the patience for

the slow trains, will be rewarded with glorious sunrises and welcoming

hosts.

4 Sleeping

Morioka and Ichinoseki (near Hiraizumi) have the usual cluster of business

hotels, but most travellers opt for the traditional ryokan and guesthouses of

the gorgeous Tōno Valley.

Morioka 盛岡

%019 / POP 297,631

Three rivers flow through Morioka (盛岡), an attractive park commands

attention near the centre, and Iwate-san stands proudly in the background,

but the prefectural capital is fairly unremarkable for visitors, aside from its

convenience as a transport hub and its range of smart noodle restaurants.

Morioka is also known for its cast-iron artisan work.

Morioka

1 Sights

1 Iwate-kōen

C2

4 Sleeping

2 Hotel Ace Morioka

B1

3 Kumagai Ryokan

B2

5 Eating

4 Azumaya Honten

D2

5 Karē Kōbō Chalten

D2

6 Pairon Honten

D2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

7 Cappuccino Shiki

A2

7 Shopping

8 Kamasada Honten

D2

1 Sights

Iwate-kōen

PARK

( MAP ; 岩手公園)

If you head east on foot from the train station along Kaiun-bashi for about

2km, you’ll eventually come to this landscaped park, where Morioka-jō once

stood. All that remains of the castle, completed in 1633 and destroyed in

1874, are its moss-covered stone foundation walls. Still, you can get a sense

of its scale.

4 Sleeping

Kumagai Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 熊ヶ井旅館; %019-651-3020; www.kumagairyokan.com; 3-2-5 Ōsawakawara; s/d

¥5000/9000; naiW)

Travellers usually just pass through Morioka, but you’ll find reason to linger

in this spacious ryokan surrounded by a pleasant garden filled with various

folk crafts. There’s a lovely iwa-buro (rock bath) for evening soaks, and

meals are a cut above the norm. The inn is located about 800m east of the

train station (behind the large church).

Hotel Ace Morioka

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; ホテルエース盛岡; %034-510-8651; www.hotel-ace.co.jp; 2-11-35 Chūō-dōri; s/d from ¥6000/8500; naW)

This hotel was renovated in 2017 and is pretty stylish, despite having some

of the pokiest rooms known to travel writers! The lobby and bathrooms are

very spiffy, while management bows to your every need (even more so than

usual in Japan). The location is good, a 10-minute walk east of the train

station.

5 Eating & Drinking

Karē Kōbō Chalten

JAPANESE CURRY

¥

( MAP ; カレー工房チャルテン; %019-651-1223; 1-8-1 Nakanohashi-dōri; curries from

¥850; h11.30am-3pm & 6-8pm Mon-Sat)

Serving the best curry we tried in the whole of northern Japan, this small,

charming restaurant makes nothing except creamy plates of curry. The

wonderful vegetarian option uses eight different vegetables diced to a near

pulp. Choose your heat from one to five (three was pretty intense!). The

masala chai (¥400) goes well.

Pairon Honten

UDON

¥

( MAP ; 白龍本店; %019-624-2247; 5-15 Uchi-maru; noodles from ¥350; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat,

11.30am-6pm Sun)

Jaja-men (じゃじゃめん; noodle with miso and minced meat) joints are all

over town, but this hole-in-the wall is still the leader. Ordering is a breeze:

just ask for shō (small), chū (medium) or dai (large). When you’re finished,

crack a raw egg (¥50) into the bowl and the staff will add hot soup and more

of that amazing miso paste.

It’s down a side street opposite Sakurayama-jinja; you’ll know you’ve

found it when you find the queue.

Azumaya Honten

SOBA

¥¥

( MAP ; 東屋本店; %019-622-2252; www.wankosobaazumaya.co.jp; 1-8-3 Nakanohashi-dōri; wanko-soba from ¥2700; h11am-8pm)

Customers line up and tour buses roll in for this hugely popular wanko-soba

restaurant. As per tradition, the waiter will refill your tiny bowl with soba as

soon as you’ve put the last one down. Fifteen bowls are equivalent to one

ordinary bowl, but the average customer will put away 50 (even 200 is not

unheard of).

Cappuccino Shiki

COFFEE

( MAP ; %019-625-3608; 10-6 Morioka Ekimae-dōri; coffee from ¥500; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm

Sun)

Perfectly placed to catch caffeine addicts as they tumble off their train and

out into the bustle of Morioka, this cosy, dark-wood coffee shop has great

espresso and a hip vibe. Toasted sandwiches are also available.

7 Shopping

Kamasada Honten

HOMEWARES

( MAP ; 釜定本店; %019-622-3911; 2-5 Konya-chō; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Morioka is known for its nanbu tekki (cast ironware), notably tea kettles.

There are some beautiful examples at this venerable shop, along with more

affordable items such as wind chimes and incense holders.

8 Information

Iwate Morioka Regional Tourist Information Center (いわて・盛岡広域

観光センタ-; %019-625-2090; 2nd fl, JR Morioka Station, 1-48 Morioka Ekimae-dōri; h9am-

5.30pm) On the 2nd floor of JR Morioka Station, this friendly office has

English-speaking staff who can help you book accommodation.

Tourist Information Center (盛岡観光コンベンション協会; %019-604-3305;

www.hellomorioka.jp; 2nd fl, Odette Plaza, 1-1-10 Nakanohashi-dōri; h9am-7pm, closed 2nd Tue of

month; W) The helpful staff near the Nakanohashi district speak some English

and are happy to welcome you to Morioka.

Iwate Medical University Hospital (岩手医科大学附属病院; %24hr

emergency hotline 019-651-5111; www.iwate-med.ac.jp/hospital; 19-1 Uchi-maru; houtpatient services 8.30-11am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

8 Getting There & Away

There are hourly shinkansen on the JR Tōhoku line south to Tokyo (¥14,740,

2¼ hours) via Sendai (¥6670, 40 minutes), and north to Shin-Aomori

(¥6130, one hour).

Frequent trains run on the JR Akita shinkansen line between Morioka and

Akita (¥4620, 1½ hours) via Tazawa-ko (¥2030, 30 minutes) and

Kakunodate (¥2840, 50 minutes). The local Tazawa-ko line covers the same

route in about twice the time for around half the price; you may need to

transfer at Ōmagari.

Regional buses depart from the JR Bus Station, which is outside the east

exit of the train station, and connect Morioka with Sendai (¥2890, 2½ hours)

and Hirosaki (¥2980, 2¼ hours). Night buses also go to Tokyo (¥7870, 7½

hours).

8 Getting Around

The charmingly named Denden Mushi (‘electric transmission bug’) tourist

trolley makes a convenient loop around town (single ride/day pass

¥100/300), departing in a clockwise direction from stop 15 in front of JR

Morioka Station (anticlockwise from stop 16) between 9am and 7pm. Buy a

day pass from the Bus Information Office at the station before boarding.

Bicycles can be rented from Sasaki Jitensha Shōkai (佐々木自転車商

会; %019-624-2692; 10-2 Morioka Ekimae-dōri; per hour/day ¥200/1000; h8.30am-6pm), near JR

Morioka Station.

Hiraizumi 平泉

%0191 / POP 7800

Home to Tōhoku’s first Unesco World Heritage listing, Hiraizumi (平泉) is a

handsome feudal town with architectural remnants courtesy of the gold-

mining Ōshu Fujiwara clan who ruled here throughout the 12th century.

Chief among the town’s attractions is the Chūson-ji temple complex.

Dedicated to the principles of Buddhism, the buildings have been

thoughtfully integrated into the natural surrounds. While feudal strife

eventually brought the old town’s demise, visitors will appreciate modern

Hiraizumi’s understated charm.

History

Hiraizumi’s fate is indelibly linked to that of Japan’s favourite tragic hero,

Minamoto no Yoshitsune. A great warrior, Yoshitsune earned the jealous

contempt of his elder half-brother – Japan’s first shogun, Minamoto-no-

Yoritomo – and fled east, eventually taking refuge at Hiraizumi in 1187. This

gave Yoritomo the perfect excuse to attack, resulting in both the defeat of the

Ōshu Fujiwara clan and the death of Yoshitsune. Yoritomo was said to be so

impressed with the temples of Hiraizumi that he allowed them to remain,

and it was the Kamakura shogunate (military government) that later

sponsored the construction of the first wooden hall to protect Konjiki-dō.

Hiraizumi

1 Top Sights

1 Chūson-ji

A1

1 Sights

2 Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center

C3

3 Konjiki-dō

A1

4 Kyōzō

A1

5 Mōtsū-ji

B4

4 Sleeping

6 Minpaku Hiraizumi

C4

5 Eating

7 Kanzan-tei

A1

1 Sights

o Chūson-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中尊寺; %0191-46-2211; www.chusonji.or.jp; adult/child ¥800/300;

h8.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb)

Established in AD 850 by the priest Ennin, the Chūson-ji complex was

expanded by the Ōshu Fujiwara family in the 12th century. A total of 300

buildings with 40 temples were constructed. Ironically, the family’s grand

scheme to build a Buddhist utopia was destroyed when a massive fire

ravaged nearly everything in 1337. Only two of the original structures, the

Konjiki-dō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金色堂, Golden Hall) and Kyōzō ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 経蔵; Sutra Repository), remain, alongside more recent reconstructions. The sprawling site is reached via a steep cedar-lined avenue.

Gilded and gleaming up to its eaves, with elaborate lacquerwork and mother-

of-pearl inlay throughout, the Konjiki-dō was at the cutting edge of Heian-

era artistry when it was created in 1124 – and still impresses today. Beneath

the three altars are the mummified remains of three generations of the Ōshu

Fujiwara family. Given Hiraizumi’s history, it seems a miracle that the

Konjiki-dō has survived. To avoid tempting fate, the pavilion is now behind

glass inside a fireproof enclosure.

The adjacent treasury (讃衡蔵; Sankōzō) contains the coffins and funeral

finery of the Fujiwara clan – scrolls, swords and images transferred here

from long-vanished halls and temples.

Kyōzō, the other original construction, is an understated building guarded

by Kishi Monju Bosatsu and Four Attendants that formerly stored sacred

sutras and artefacts.

Mōtsū-ji

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 毛越寺; %0191-46-2331; adult/child ¥500/300; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)

Established by the priest Ennin in AD 850 at the same time as Chūson-ji,

Mōtsū-ji was once Tōhoku’s largest and grandest temple complex. The

buildings are all long gone, but the enigmatic 12th-century ‘Pure Land’

gardens, designed with the Buddhist notion of creating an earthly paradise,

remain.

Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平泉文化遺産センター; 44 Hanadate; h9am-5pm) F

This modest, friendly museum charts Hiraizumi’s rise and fall through visual

displays and artefacts, with English explanations throughout.

2 Activities

Geibi Gorge

BOATING

(厳美渓, Geibi-kei; per person ¥1600; h8.30am-4pm)

Singing boatmen on flat-bottomed wooden boats steer passengers down the

Satetsu-gawa, which cuts through a ravine flanked by towering limestone

walls. Tours last 1½ hours and include some time on land halfway up the

gorge.

Geibi Gorge is 15km east of Hiraizumi; between April and November,

four daily buses travel from Hiraizumi (¥500, 35 minutes), otherwise take

the kaisoku (rapid train) from Ichinoseki to Geibi-kei Station on the JR

Ōfunato line (¥580, 30 minutes).

4 Sleeping & Eating

A couple of guesthouses in town cater to those wishing to stay overnight, but

most travellers will likely visit on a day trip from Morioka or Sendai.

A cluster of Japanese tourist-type restaurants near the temples serve

traditional fare, though fewer options are available at dinner.

Minpaku Hiraizumi

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 民泊平泉町; %090-267-7889; 117-17 Hiraizumi Shirayama; per person incl breakfast ¥6000; paW)

The two rooms in this charming guesthouse are regularly booked out, for

good reason. The friendly older couple in charge present their home in

exquisite fashion, from the bright and stylish sleeping areas to the hearty

breakfasts and peaceful sitting room.

Kanzan-tei

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; かんざん亭; %0191-46-2211; dishes from ¥980; h10am-4.15pm)

On top of the hill within the Chūson-ji complex, this glass-walled restaurant

has lovely views of the surrounding countryside and is the perfect place to

rest your temple-weary legs. Hot and cold soba dishes hit the spot.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (平泉町観光協会; %0191-46-2110; h8.30am-5pm)

Located next to the train station, with English pamphlets available.

8 Getting There & Away

Hourly shinkansen run along the JR Tōhoku line between Sendai and

Ichinoseki (¥3500, 35 minutes). Local trains (¥1660, two hours), running

every hour or two, ply the same route on the JR Tōhoku main line and also

connect Ichinoseki and Hiraizumi (¥200, 10 minutes).

Ichinoseki is connected to Morioka by the JR Tōhoku shinkansen (¥4120,

40 minutes) and the JR Tōhoku main line futsū (¥1660, 1½ hours).

8 Getting Around

The main sites are around a 30-minute walk from Hiraizumi JR Station.

Alternatively you can hire a bicycle (four hours/one day ¥400/900) or catch

the Loop Bus (single trip adult/child ¥150/80, twice hourly Monday to

Friday, more frequent on weekends) from in front of the station.

Tōno 遠野

%0198 / POP 28,062

Peaceful Tōno (遠野) has enjoyed a renaissance among domestic travellers

in search of an antidote to a harried urban existence. It provides an

accessible dip into agricultural life, watched over by a dramatic mountain

range, and its infamous folklore, the basis for so many spooky stories about

yōkai (ghosts, demons, monsters and spirits), adds an intriguing spiritual

dimension. The sights are spread out, so a car, or better yet a bicycle, is

recommended to make the most of your stay.

Tōno is also a gateway for journeys south through the coastal region

known as Sanriku Kaigan.

Tōno Valley

1 Sights

1 Gohyaku Rakan

C3

2 Jōken-ji

D2

3 Tōno Denshōen

D2

4 Tōno Folktale and Storytelling Center

A2

5 Tōno Municipal Museum

A2

6 Tsuzuki-ishi

A3

7 Unedori-sama

C3

4 Sleeping

8 Aeria Tohno

A2

9 Kuranoya

C2

10 Tōno Youth Hostel

D2

5 Eating

11 Itō-ke

A2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

12 Tono Brewing

B1

1 Sights

More than any one sight, Tōno is a collective atmosphere. Get a feel for it by

cycling through the area; you’ll see many sights en route.

Tōno Folktale & Storytelling Center

MUSEUM

(とおの昔話村, Tōno Mukashibanashi-mura; %0198-62-7887; 2-11 Chūō-dōri; adult/child

¥500/200; h9am-5pm)

Housed in the restored ryokan where Yanagita Kunio penned his famous

work Legends of Tōno , this evocative museum has audiovisuals of some of

the tales and memorabilia pertaining to Yanagita. There is minimal English

signage, but wandering the restored buildings is still worthwhile.

4 Sleeping

Tōno Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 遠野ユースホステル; %0198-62-8736; 13-39-5 Tsuchibuchi-chō; dm from ¥4050;

pnaiW) F

If you’re after a gentle rural experience, then this hostel, set inside a

converted farmhouse, is a worthy choice. The communal library and dining

hall (breakfast/dinner ¥600/1200) invite lingering, and the open-air baths

suggest a simpler time when mythical creatures stirred the locals’

imaginations. The dorms are fairly plain, but the silence, soft pillows and

Iwate wine will induce a restful sleep.

From Tōno Station, take a bus bound for Saka-no-shita to the Nitagai stop

(¥290, 12 minutes). From there, it’s a 10-minute walk, with the hostel clearly

signposted along the way (look for the small wooden signs at knee level).

Aeria Tohno

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; あえりあ遠野; %0198-60-1700; www.aeria-tohno.com; 1-10 Shinmachi; s/d incl breakfast from ¥8300/14,600; pnaW)

This is a very hospitable, upscale hotel near the town museum. Staff are

highly knowledgeable about the local area and encourage guests to venture

out from their spacious, elegant – if slightly dated – rooms. It’s by far the

pick of the town at the higher end. Dinner can be added for ¥4300.

Kuranoya

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; くら乃屋; %0198-60-1360; www.kuranoya-tono.com; 45-136 Sanchiwari, Kōkōji, Matsuzaki-chō; s/d from ¥6500/12,000; paW)

Guests rave about Kuranoya, a classic Japanese homestay with urbane

owners who sought refuge from the city in Tōno’s foothills. They speak

magnificent English, are passionate about the history and future of their

town, and are keen to share it with you. Accommodation is modern Japanese

of the highest standard. A highly recommended dinner costs ¥1000. Call

ahead for pick-ups.

CYCLING AROUND TŌNO

A fantastic riverside trail draws leisure cyclists (no need for lycra), as the Tōno Valley opens up

into some beautiful terrain, particularly to the east. Most of the sights following are dotted

throughout the valley. Finding them is half the fun. Rent a bicycle, grab a walking map from the

Tourist Information Center and don’t be afraid to explore. The mythical world is well

signposted in English, but don’t let that stop you setting off down unmarked roads – you never

know what you might find.

About 2.5km southwest of Tōno Station is Unedori-sama ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 卯子

酉様; %0198-62-2111; Shimokumi-chō), the matchmaking shrine. According to legend, if you

tie a strip of red cloth around one of the pines using only your left hand, you’ll meet your soul

mate. In the hills above, the Gohyaku Rakan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 五百羅漢, 500

Buddhist Disciples) are eerie, moss-covered rock carvings of 500 disciples of Buddha that were

fashioned by a priest to console the spirits of those who died in a 1754 famine. It’s a unique site

– approach respectfully.

If you continue west along Rte 283 towards Morioka for about 8km, you’ll eventually come

to Tsuzuki-ishi ( MAP ; 続石), a curious rock that rests amid aromatic cedars; it’s either a natural formation or a dolmen (primitive tomb). A short, steep hike rewards you with views

across the valley, but take heed as bears – and hungry ogres – are reported to lurk in these parts.

About 5km east of the town centre is Tōno Denshōen ( MAP ; 遠野伝承園; %0198-62-

8655; www.densyoen.jp; 6-5-1 Tsuchibuchi, Tsuchibuchi-chō; adult/child ¥320/220; h9am-

5pm), a traditional farmhouse containing a small cultural museum. The highlights here are the

thousand Oshira-sama deities fashioned from mulberry wood. A few hundred metres southeast

is Jōken-ji ( MAP ; 常堅寺; %0198-62-1333; 7-50 Tsuchibuchi, Tsuchibuchi-chō), a peaceful

temple dedicated to the deity image of Obinzuru-sama. Behind the temple is the kappa-buchi

pool, where Tōno’s famous water sprites lurk. It is said that if pregnant women worship at the

shrine on the riverbank, they’ll produce plenty of milk, but only if they first produce a breast-

shaped offering. The tiny altar is filled with small red or white cloth bags, most complete with

nipple.

Otherwise, see if you can find Aragami Jinja (荒神神社; 21 Nakazawa, Aozasa-chō), an

insanely photogenic little shrine in the middle of a luminous yellow field of canola – you might

need to ask for directions – or head on to the Yamaguchi Waterwheel (山口の水車), a

delightful thatch-roofed waterwheel once used for milling crops, now preserved as a symbol of

Tōno’s past. From here it’s a 12km ride back to town.

5 Eating & Drinking

There are a few local noodle places around town where you can grab a bowl

at lunch. A handful of izakaya also serve dinner, but otherwise you’ll need to

depend on your hosts for an evening meal.

Itō-ke

SOBA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 伊藤家; %0198-60-1110; 2-11 Chūō-dōri; mains from ¥650; h11am-5pm) Among the soba varieties served here, try hitsuko soba (ひつこそば), eaten

with chicken, mushrooms, onion and raw egg. Otherwise go for hittsumi

(ひっつみ), hand-cut noodles served with chicken-and-vegetable dumplings

in a hot broth. The restaurant is in the traditional dark-wood building

adjacent to the Tōno Folktale & Storytelling Center; look for the wooden

sign over the sliding doors.

Tono Brewing

BREWERY

( MAP ; 株式会社遠野醸造; %0198-66-3990; www.tonobrewing.com; 10-15 Chūō-dōri; 5-

10pm Mon & Wed-Fri, from noon Sat, to 9pm Sun; W)

Sleepy Tōno is a surprising home for this hip, friendly taproom, but it’s a

welcome addition to the city’s drinking landscape nonetheless. Locally

brewed beers include a ‘coffee stout’, as well as pale ales and lagers. There

are also tasty bar snacks on offer, from fries and pickles to larger plates – the

perfect end to a day’s cycling.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (遠野市観光協会; %0198-62-1333; www.tonojikan.jp;

h8.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar; W) Across from the train station, friendly,

helpful staff await your arrival with bicycle rentals (¥1020 per day), English

maps and free internet. They can also arrange accommodation in the area.

8 Getting There & Away

Trains run hourly on the JR Tōhoku line between Hiraizumi and Hanamaki

(¥840, 45 minutes). The JR Kamaishi line connects Hanamaki to Tōno

(¥840, one hour), and then onwards to Kamaishi (¥840, one hour), while the

JR Tōhoku line connects Hanamaki to Morioka (¥670, 30 minutes).

If you’re coming from Sendai, take the Tōhoku shinkansen to Shin-

Hanamaki (¥5180, one hour) and transfer to the JR Kamaishi line for Tōno

(¥760, 45 minutes). The shinkansen also connects Shin-Hanamaki to

Morioka (¥3130, 11 minutes).

The Sennin-Tōge expressway links up with Rte 283 between Tōno and

Kamaishi, for journeys around Sanriku Kaigan.

SANRIKU KAIGAN 三陸海岸

Extending from Aomori Prefecture in the north, through Iwate and Miyagi

Prefectures to the south, the vast Sanriku Kaigan (三陸海岸) is a rugged and

beautiful stretch of coastline marked by steep rocky cliffs and a ‘ria’

topography. Rias are characterised by broad estuaries that funnel into long,

narrow inlets. It is on the low-lying land around the rias of Sanriku Kaigan

that communities developed. Ironically these peculiarities that sustain life

here also amplify tsunami – sadly the Sanriku coast bore the brunt of the

Great East Japan Earthquake and subsequent tsunami in March 2011.

Most of the low-lying areas of towns and villages here were levelled, and

almost 20,000 people lost their lives. It’s a humbling experience to see what

remains and to try to imagine what was here before. Mass reconstruction

efforts have taken place, with much success: existing businesses have re-

established themselves and new restaurants and hotels are popping up

everywhere.

Those lucky enough to visit Sanriku Kaigan will not only enjoy the

natural splendour of this ancient, ocean-facing landscape and its traditional

seafaring communities, but will also be part of the rebirth of these towns and

villages, with the people from them eager to protect and share their history

and culture with the world. Many Japanese people travel here for this reason

alone, especially young creatives and social activists, lending their energies,

ideas and human capital to many communities. There’s a real sense of

resilience, and the appreciation of life here will touch the heart of anyone

who visits.

LEGENDS OF TŌNO

At the beginning of the 20th century, writer and scholar Yanagita Kunio (1875–1962) published

Tōno Monogatari (遠野物語; Legends of Tōno), a collection of local folk tales based on

interviews with Sasaki Kyōseki, an educated man from a peasant family who had committed to

memory more than 100 densetsu (local legends). The book captured the nation’s imagination,

bringing into focus the oral traditions of a region that had previously been ignored. Pick up the

English translation before you visit, if you can.

A weird and wonderful cast of characters and situations draws heavily on the concept of

animism, where an individual spirit is attributed to everything that exists, including animals and

objects. Of particular importance to Tōno is the story of Oshira-sama. It begins with a farm girl

who develops a deep affection for her horse; eventually the two marry, against her father’s will.

One night, the father finds her sleeping in the stables and, outraged, slaughters the animal.

Distraught, the daughter clings to the horse’s head and together they are spirited up to the

heavens, becoming the deity Oshira-sama.

There are also shape-shifting foxes and oni (ogres) who live in the hills and eat lost humans;

but best known are the kappa (yes, the inspiration for Kappa Mountain in Super Mario World):

impish water sprites with thick shells, scaly skin and pointed beaks, responsible for all sorts of

mischief and grief. Tōno’s many kappa reputedly have a nasty habit of pulling people’s

intestines out through their bum to feed on their shirikodama, a mythical ball that humans

would call a soul and kappa would call delicious.

Points to note: kappa love cucumbers, so keep some handy – they may earn your soul a

temporary reprieve. (Astute connoisseurs of sushi will note that a kappa-maki is none other than

a cucumber hand roll.) If you meet a kappa in the woods, remember to bow, as it will return the

gesture, spilling out the water stored in its head and becoming temporarily powerless. Kappa

will always repay a favour and are highly knowledgeable in medicine, agriculture and games of

skill.

Throughout all of the Tōno Monogatari stories is a common theme: the struggle to overcome

the everyday problems of rural life.

8 Getting There & Around

Renting a car (from Morioka, Sendai or Ichinoseki) is highly recommended.

Roads in, out and around the area are in excellent shape, with many new

roads and highways now in action, including the newly completed Sanriku

Expressway.

Rail services on the JR Kamaishi line are fully operational, but buses have

replaced trains on a small section of the JR Ōfunato, Kesennuma and

Yamada lines.

The private Sanriku Railway lines Kita-Riasu (between Miyako and Kuji)

and Minami-Riasu (between Ōfunato/Sakari and Kamaishi), which were

heavily damaged by the tsunami, are running full services again. A new

section of railway opened in 2019, linking Miyako with Kamaishi and

traversing the coast by rail all the way from Kuji to Ōfunato, linking north to

Hachinohe and west to Ichinoseki.

Luxurious Tōhoku Emotion trains with gourmet cuisine served in dining

cars run daily between Hachinohe and Kuji, mostly along the cost (round

trip ¥11,900, including food).

Minami-Sanriku & Kesennuma 南三陸・気仙沼

Kesennuma (気仙沼), in Miyagi Prefecture, is one of the Sanriku coast’s

larger cities. Life in the hilly suburbs above this port has returned to

something like normal since 2000 people died here in 2011. Kesennuma was

the site for the iconic photo of a ship – the Kyotoku Maru 18 – beached atop

an ocean of rubble. The eerie wreck was finally removed in 2013.

Around 40km south, 95% of the town of Minami-Sanriku (南三陸) was

destroyed in the tsunami, yet thousands of people reached higher ground and

survived. The area is still undergoing extensive land-reclamation works,

with a memorial park due to open in 2020.

1 Sights

o RIAS Ark Museum of Art

MUSEUM

(リアスアーク美術館; %0226-24-1611; www.riasark.com; 138-5 Akaiwamakisawa,

Kesennuma; adult/child ¥500/150; h9.30am-5pm Wed-Sun)

High in the hills above Kesennuma, this local art museum houses the largest

collection of photographs and artefacts in existence relating to the 2011

Great East Japan Earthquake and tsunami. A comprehensive booklet

containing an English translation of each exhibit is available. The sheer

volume and nature of the collection is a little overwhelming.

Minami-Sanriku Crisis Management Centre

MEMORIAL

(南三陸防災対策庁舎; Minami-Sanriku)

The steel shell is all that remains of this three-storey building, standing alone

in what once was central Minami-Sanriku. It has been preserved by the

locals as a touching memorial to the lives that were lost here. This whole

area is being turned into a memorial park, due to open in 2020.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a couple of business hotels and guesthouses in Kesennuma, which

makes a handy base for exploring the surrounding area.

Accommo Inn Kesennuma

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

(アコモイン気仙沼; %0226-21-2565; www.accommo-inn.com; 2-1 Shinden, Kesennuma; s/d

incl breakfast ¥6300/12,600; pnaW)

Built in 2013 the low-rise Accommo Inn has modern rooms with soft

colours, quality linen, small desks and lots of natural light. The

complimentary breakfast is a Japanese take on a full English.

Sun Sun Shopping Village

FOOD HALL

¥

(南三陸さんさん商店街; Shizugawa; dishes from ¥500; h9am-5pm)

Atop reclaimed land near where the old centre of Minami-Sanriku stood, this

new shopping village opened in 2017 to much fanfare. It represents the

revitalisation of the tsunami zone, and is thronged with locals on weekends.

A cluster of restaurants serve local specialities, including excellent seafood

rice bowls; the perfect lunch break.

SL GINGA TRAIN

Train buffs should check out the rather special SL Ginga series steam locomotive, inspired by

the novel Night on the Galactic Railroad, which runs on Saturdays from Hanamaki to Kamaishi

(¥2480, 4½ hours) via Tōno, and back the other way on Sundays.

8 Getting There & Away

Kesennuma is 50km east of Ichinoseki. Trains traverse the JR Ōfunato line

between Kesennuma and Ichinoseki (¥1140, 1¼ hours, five daily).

JR also runs a bus rapid transit (BRT) service north to Ōfunato (¥840, one

hour, five daily) and south to Minami-Sanriku (¥760, 1¼ hours, hourly).

Rikuzen-takata & Ōfunato 陸前高田・大船渡

The small town of Rikuzen-takata (陸前高田) in southern Iwate was largely

swept away in 2011. A vast network of conveyor belts subsequently ferried

soil from neighbouring mountains into the town to raise the ground level. It’s

now an attractive seaside village with decent tourism infrastructure (namely

hotels and restaurants) and makes a great base for trips around the region.

The port town of Ōfunato (大船渡), 15km north of Rikuzen-takata, saw

24m-high waves travel 3km inland during the 2011 tsunami. Residents

heeded warnings and loss of life was comparatively small.

WORTH A TRIP

MICHINOKU COASTAL TRAIL

Stretching from Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture to Soma in Fukushima Prefecture, the

Michinoku Coastal Trail (みちのく潮風トレイル; http://tohoku.env.go.jp/mct) is a 700km hiking path through some of the most stunning coastal regions in Japan. Many sections of the

trail are well established, but some linking pieces are still under construction, with the entire

trail due to be open by the end of 2019.

1 Sights

Goishi Kaigan

BEACH

(碁石海岸; Ōfunato)

This 6km scenic stretch of rocky coastline and picturesque beaches around

Ōfunato is home to a number of geological attractions, including Ranboya

Gorge, a watery canyon with 30m-high walls that is navigable by boats on

calm days. Nearby Kaminariiwa Rock (雷岩; Thunder Rock) is one of the

officially designated ‘100 Soundscapes of Japan’ due to the deep rumbling

sound produced when waves enter caverns in the rock. Around 4km of easily

navigable walking trails hug the clifftops.

Campers can stay at the beachside campground (碁石海岸キャンプ場;

%0192-29-2359; www.goishi.info; Ohama Suwaki-cho, Ōfunato; per person ¥500, campsite ¥1500,

powered van site ¥4000; hmid-Jul–Oct, reception 8.30am-5.15pm).

Ippon-matsu

MEMORIAL

(陸前高田一本松, Miracle Pine;

www.city.rikuzentakata.iwate.jp/kategorie/fukkou/ipponmatu/ipponmatu.html; Rikuzen-takata) More than 70,000 pine trees lined the coastline around Rikuzen-takata until

2011, when all but one were destroyed in the tsunami. That tree, known as

the Miracle Pine, survived for over a year, until salination from the

inundation caused its demise. A replica was constructed in its place and

serves as a touching memorial, symbolising hope. A memorial park is under

construction around the site, including the replanting of a pine grove from

pine cones collected from the original trees.

2 Activities

Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen

ONSEN

(黒崎仙境温泉; %0192-57-1126; www.kurosakionsen.com; 9-41 Hirotacho Kurosaki,

Rikuzentakata; 4hr/day ¥500/1000, towel ¥230; h10am-8pm Thu-Tue)

Right on the tip of the peninsula, this onsen has lovely views and an on-site

noodle restaurant to fill tummies between plunges.

4 Sleeping

Rikuzen-takata and Ōfunato are home to some of the nicest accommodation

options along Sanriku Kaigan; this area makes a great base for your travels.

Hakoneyama Terrace

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

(はこねやまテラス; %0192-22-7088; www.hakoneyama-terrace.jp; 1-Myoga, Otomocho; s/d

incl breakfast Mon-Fri ¥8000/14,000, Sat & Sun ¥9000/16,000; pnaW) F

Set in the hills, among tall trees and with ocean views, this elegant

guesthouse is the epitome of hip. Light-filled rooms are simple and

supremely comfortable, but the main draw is the expansive sunset terrace.

The main building also hosts a cafe, bar and workshop space. A healthy

breakfast is included; other meals are available by reservation.

Capital Hotel 1000

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(キャピタルホテル1000; %0192-55-3111; www.capitalhotel1000.jp; 0-1 Nagasuna Takata-

chō, Rikuzen-takata; s/d from ¥8250/15,500; pnaW)

A symbol of the reconstruction effort, the Capital Hotel 1000 was reborn in

2013 and is now a grey rectangular building in an industrial style with

excellent rooms, most with a small couch. The surrounding area is a hive of

reconstruction. Breakfasts are delicious.

Tamanoyu Onsen

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(霊泉玉乃湯; %0192-55-6866; www.tamanoyuonsen.com; 104-8 Takekoma-chō, Rikuzen-takata; per person incl 2 meals from ¥10,800; paW)

This is a lovely rural escape, with a number of piping-hot baths and a

separate building for Japanese-style accommodation. Delicious meals are

included. Day trippers can make use of the bathing facilities for ¥600.

5 Eating & Drinking

There are some very hip, community-minded cafes springing up around this

area, as well as excellent local seafood restaurants.

Riku Café

JAPANESE

¥

(りくカフェ; %0192-22-7311; http://rikucafe.jp; 22-9 Naruishi Takata-chō, Rikuzen-takata;

dishes from ¥900; h9am-9pm; W)

The main community centre in Rikuzen-takata is also a lively cafe with

home-cooked food, good coffee and the odd live performance. It’s an

unofficial information centre, too, so drop in if you’re travelling

independently.

Waiwai

JAPANESE

¥

(わいわい; %0192-47-3102; 93-1 Osumi Takata-chō, Rikuzen-takata; dishes from ¥750; h11am-

2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm)

This friendly local eatery has novel food items, including nattō- filled fish

cake and the refreshing alcoholic orange nacchiku drink. The owner is a

mini celebrity around these parts.

Pechka

CAFE

(%0192-22-7162; www.life-with-pechka.com; 51-168 Naruishi, Takata-chō, Rikuzen-takata; h11am-9pm; W)

Excellent coffee and delicious baked goods – such as Earl Grey scones with

lemon butter – are the standouts at this hip cafe, which also hosts a lending

library. The architect-designed space is constructed entirely of local

materials.

8 Getting There & Away

Rikuzen-takata is 60km east of Ichinoseki. Hourly bus rapid transit (BRT)

services run south to Kesennuma (¥500, 30 minutes) and north to Ōfunato

(¥320, 35 minutes).

Ōfunato is also the southern end of the Sanriku Railway Minami-Rias

line, which runs along the coast between Sakari Station in Ōfunato and

Kamaishi (¥1080, one hour, five daily). The middle section of the Sanriku

Railway, which links Kamaishi with Miyako, reopened in 2019 at making it

possible to traverse the coast all the way north to Kuji.

Kamaishi & Ōtsuchi 釜石・大槌町

Due east of Tōno, Kamaishi (釜石) is an industrial fishing town where low-

lying areas were flattened in the tsunami and 1250 lives were lost. A famed

Buddhist statue towers over the town. The town itself doesn’t have much to

hold travellers, but it makes a good base for journeys along the nearby coast,

as its tourist infrastructure has received a hefty boost due to its role as one of

the host venues for the 2019 Rugby World Cup. Just 10km down the road,

flanked by Chojamori-san and Komagamori-san, the small fishing village of

Ōtsuchi (大槌町) blooms with azaleas in spring. Roughly 10% of the town’s

16,000 people were lost in 2011.

DON’T MISS

GOURMET DINING IN RIKUZEN-TAKATA

A few savvy chefs in Rikuzen-takata have created Hota-waka Go-zen, a 12-dish degustation

menu of local produce, laid out on tiered wooden trays and served at a handful of venues along

the coast. Check out www.rikuzentakata-hotatewakame.com.

T Tours

o Oraga Otsuchi

WALKING

(おらが大槌夢広場 大槌町語り部ガイド; %0193-55-5120; www.oraga-otsuchi.jp;

23-37-3 Ōtsuchi-cho; tours per person from ¥1000; hby appointment)

The resilient, forward-thinking and compassionate folk at this local

organisation run individual and group tours around Ōtsuchi, sharing

personal, firsthand accounts of the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami,

and educating visitors on disaster management and humanitarian concerns.

Prepare to have your heart melt a little (OK, a lot). Very highly

recommended.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hamabeno Ryouriyado Houraikan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(浜べの料理宿宝来館; %0193-28-2526; www.houraikan.jp; 2-1 Shinden, Kamaishi; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥15,000; pnaW)

Expect superlative hospitality at this seaside gem. The dining experience at

this ryokan is exceptional for such a remote place and the onsen facility

includes a Zen garden surrounding a large wooden bath, and stunning views

from the indoor hot and cold pools. Rooms are light and stylish, with a

largely Western decor, save the tatami flooring.

The ryokan’s owner, Akiko Iwasaki, was a leader of the local

rehabilitation effort after the 2011 tsunami, and is a wealth of information on

the region’s history and highlights.

Sunfish Kamaishi

MARKET

¥

(サン・フィッシュ釜石; www.sunfish-kamaishi.sakura.ne.jp; opposite Kamaishi Station;

sushi set from ¥1100; h7am-4pm Thu-Tue)

A great spot to pick up fresh sushi on the way through Kamaishi, the Sunfish

market also has a few small restaurants on the 1st floor.

Ririshiya

JAPANESE

¥¥

(凛々家; %0193-44-2366; 1-3-53 Kiri Kiri, Ōtsuchi; dishes from ¥700; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30-

10pm)

When in Ōtsuchi, stop for a special seafood donburi (rice bowl) at this

popular restaurant run by a former fisherman. Lots of local vegetables from

the surrounding mountains also feature on the eclectic menu.

DON’T MISS

TŌHOKU’S FAMOUS FESTIVALS

Tōhoku festivals are the stuff of Japanese legend, and many Japanese legends live on in

Tōhoku’s wild public celebrations. Particularly through the warmer months, you’ve a decent

chance of passing a city, town or village in full flight. The following festivals, known as the

Three Great Festivals of Tōhoku, are must-sees (just be sure to book accommodation months in

advance):

Sendai Tanabata Matsuri Thousands of coloured streamers around Sendai’s downtown area

honour a tale of star-crossed lovers.

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri Local artists outdo each other in creating elaborate floats, and a

multitude of merrymakers take to Aomori’s streets.

Akita Kantō Matsuri Stunning acrobatics are performed in Akita, with towering bamboo poles

hung with lanterns.

8 Information

Kamaishi Tourist Information Society (釜石観光物産協会; %0193-22-5835;

22-1 Suzukochō, Kamaishi; h9am-5pm) By Kamaishi Station, with friendly staff who

speak little English but have excellent literature to disperse on Kamaishi and

the surrounding area.

8 Getting There & Away

Kamaishi is 40km east of Tōno. Hourly trains traverse the JR Kamaishi line

between Kamaishi and Tōno (¥840, one hour), continuing on to Hanamaki

(¥1660, two hours).

Kamaishi is also the northern end of the Sanriku Railway Minami-Rias

line, which runs along the coast between Kamaishi and Sakari in Ofunato

(¥1080, one hour, five daily). The middle section of the Sanriku Railway,

which links Kamaishi with Miyako, reopened in 2019 at making it possible

to traverse the coast all the way north to Kuji.

Miyako 宮古市

%0193 / POP 56,700

The quiet port city of Miyako (宮古市) has a wealth of natural beauty on its

doorstep, the jewel of which is the famed white-pebble beach of

Jodogahama. This proximity to the coast also meant that Miyako suffered

greatly during the 2011 tsunami, when much of the town, along with almost

all of its fishing fleet, was destroyed, though loss of life was lower here than

in towns further south. Most of the town’s infrastructure is now back up and

running, and the region once again draws large numbers of domestic tourists

to its picturesque coastline.

1 Sights

Kitayamazaki Cliffs

NATURAL FEATURE

(北山崎)

Jagged, green-fringed cliffs plunge into the deep-blue Pacific Ocean along

this 8km stretch of coastline known as the Kitayamazaki coast. Stunning in

every season, whether shrouded in mist or bathed in sun, the cliffs have long

drawn domestic tourists to this scenic region. Walking tracks meander

through pine forests to various observation points; more serious walkers can

use this as a starting point for a section of the Michinoku Coastal Trail.

The cliffs are a one-hour drive from Miyako. On public transport, take the

Sanriku Railway to Tanohata (¥990, 45 minutes), from where buses depart

for the cliffs (¥800, 20 minutes, hourly).

Jodogahama Beach

BEACH

(浄土ヶ浜)

Postcard-perfect Jodogahama (‘pure land beach’) sits on a sheltered inlet

surrounded by jagged white-stone outcrops backed by deep-green pines.

Walking tracks wend their way around the bay, while the beach itself has

crystal-clear water perfect for peaceful bathing. Domestic tourists flock to

the area in summer, when paddle boats are available for hire. To fully

appreciate the seascape, take a short cruise to the nearby Blue Cave (¥1500,

20 minutes), departing from the pier below the visitor centre.

Buses run between Miyako Station and the visitor centre (¥180, 15

minutes, at least hourly), from where it’s a 10-minute walk to the beach.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Seafood features heavily on Miyako menus, with a plethora of fresh catch

available. The centre has plenty of local restaurants, though if you’re visiting

the coastal sights, you may wish to pack a picnic.

Park Hotel Jodogahama

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(浄土ヶ浜パークホテル; %0193-62-2321; www.jodo-ph.jp; 32-4 Hitachihamacho; r per

person from ¥14,500; pnaW)

The stunning location, only a short stroll from Jodogahama beach, is the

biggest draw for this elegant oceanfront hotel. Most rooms are Japanesestyle,

and all feature small sitting areas – the ones with ocean views are obviously

the pick, though those facing the pine forest offer a different kind of serenity.

Friendly staff and excellent meals seal the deal.

8 Getting There & Away

Three daily trains run on the JR Yamada line between Miyako and Morioka

(¥1940, 2¼ hours).

Miyako is also the southern end of the Sanriku Railway Kita-Rias line,

which runs along the coast between Mikayo and Kuji (¥1850, 1¾ hours, five

daily). The middle section of the Sanriku Railway, which links Miyako with

Kamaishi, which links Kamaishi with Miyako, reopened in 2019 at making

it possible to traverse the coast all the way to Ōfunato.

AOMORI PREFECTURE 青森県

Travellers to the northern tip of Honshū often speed through the peculiar-

shaped prefecture of Aomori Prefecture (青森県; Aomori-ken) en route to

the island of Hokkaidō. However, for geographic extremity – and

remarkably few tourists – you needn’t go so far. Disembark the bullet train

before it reaches the sea, rent a car and explore the axe-shaped Shimokita

Peninsula, the sacred volcanoes around Osore-zan, and the snowy Hakkōda

highlands. It’s seriously wild stuff. In summer the beaches around the deep

blue caldera lake of Towada-ko make for a peaceful interlude. Hirosaki, the

former capital, is a stylish little city with a hip downtown area and a rather

fine park.

4 Sleeping

Aomori and Hirosaki have the most options for accommodation. Elsewhere

in the prefecture, secluded onsen hotels abound, especially around Towada-

ko and Hakkōda-san.

Aomori 青森

%017 / POP 287,648

In the upper reaches of Japan’s main island is the quiet prefectural capital of

Aomori (青森), with a very pleasant harbour-front and several excellent

museums. The wilds of Hokkaidō draw many travellers here for a brief

stopover, but the savvy wanderer will use it as a base for exploring this

vastly under-visited prefecture. Aomori’s most famous draw is its August

Nebuta festival, but the rest of the time the city maintains a sleepy seaside

feel. It’s sunny and delightfully cooler than most of Japan in summer, but

winter here is an icy, frigid state of affairs.

Aomori

1 Sights

1 Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse

A2

4 Sleeping

2 Aomori Center Hotel

A3

3 Hyper Hotels Passage

B2

5 Eating

4 Osanai

A2

5 Shinsen Ichiba

A2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

6 A-Factory

A2

8 Information

7 Aomori Station Tourist Information Center

A2

8 Shin-Aomori Station Tourist Information Center

A2

1 Sights

o Aomori Museum of Art

MUSEUM

(青森県立美術館; %017-783-3000; www.aomorimuseum.jp; 185 Chikano, Yasuta; adult/child

¥510/100; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-May; c)

Looking like a modernist sculpture, the geometric white facade of the

Aomori Museum of Art was designed to blend in with the landscape when

blanketed with snow. The permanent collection features works by Aomori

icons, including pop artist Yoshitomo Nara (and his 8.5m-tall dog) and

master printmaker Munakata Shikō, alongside international artists. The

showstopper is four huge ballet backdrops painted by Marc Chagall, which

hang on the walls of the gallery’s central atrium. Contemporary temporary

exhibitions are elegantly staged.

The museum is about 5km west of JR Aomori Station, adjacent to Sannai

Maruyama. City buses leaving from stop 6 at the JR station for Menkyō

Center stop at Kenritsubijyutskan-mae (¥270, 20 minutes), across the road

from the museum.

Sannai Maruyama

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(三内丸山遺跡; %017-766-8282; www.sannaimaruyama.pref.aomori.jp; Sannai Maruyama 305;

h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, to 5pm Oct-May) F

Excavation of this site turned up an astonishing number of intact artefacts

from Japan’s Jōmon era (10,000 to 2000 years ago), which are on display at

the museum here. Clay figures, jade beads and large chestnut pillars head the

collection, and there are also some reconstructed dwellings. Sannai

Maruyama is approximately 5km west of JR Aomori Station. City buses

leaving from stop 6 for Menkyō Center stop at Sannai Maruyama Iseki-mae

(¥300, 20 minutes).

Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse

MUSEUM

( MAP ; ねぶたの家ワ・ラッセ; %017-752-1311; www.nebuta.or.jp/warasse; 1-1-1

Yasukata; adult/child ¥600/250; h9am-7pm May-Aug, to 6pm Sep-Apr)

Even if you miss the Nebuta festival, you can still gawk at the awesome

artisanship of the floats at this well-curated museum on the waterfront. On

weekends there are dancing and drumming performances.

z Festivals & Events

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri

PARADE

(青森ねぶた祭り; www.nebuta.or.jp; h2-7 Aug)

Aomori’s Nebuta Matsuri has parades of spectacular illuminated floats,

accompanied by thousands of rowdy, chanting dancers. The parades start at

sunset and last for hours; on the final day the action starts at about noon.

This is one of Japan’s most famous festivals; book accommodation way way

in advance.

4 Sleeping

Aomori has the usual gamut of business hotels, mostly on the walk north

from the train station along the Shinmachi covered arcade.

Hyper Hotels Passage

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; ハイパーホテルズパサージュ; %017-721-5656; www.hyperhotel.co.jp; 1-8-6

Shin-machi; s/d from ¥5480/8000; pnaW)

Sometimes the thought of exiting the train station can be too daunting.

Luckily Japanese urban planners have perfected the covered arcade, which

includes fabulous little hotels like this business number with a chandelier in

the lobby, spotless rooms, bubbly management and an excellent breakfast.

Aomori Center Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; 青森センターホテル; %017-762-7500; http://aomori.atinnhotels.com; 1-10-9-1

Furukawa; s/d incl breakfast from ¥5600/9800; pnaW)

The best reason to stay here is for the on-site onsen complex, complete with

faux rocks and steaming hot baths. Rooms in the bekkan (annexe) are far

nicer than those in the original building, which is starting to show its age.

The hotel (not to be confused with the Aomori Central Hotel) is a 500m

walk southeast from JR Aomori Station.

5 Eating & Drinking

Seafood is the star in this port city; there are loads of purveyors of the famed

local scallop. If that’s not your thing, there are plenty of other options on the

streets near the station.

o Shinsen Ichiba

MARKET

¥

( MAP ; 新鮮市場; %017-721-8000; basement fl, Auga Bldg, 1-3-7 Shin-chō; meals from ¥580;

h5am-6.30pm)

Cut out the middle man and head straight for the famed Aomori seafood

market, where piles of fresh catch – as well as apples, pickled vegetables and

a variety of other produce – are laid out for restaurateurs to hand-pick. A few

counter restaurants also sell ramen and sanshoku-don (rice topped with

scallops, fish roe and sea-urchin roe). Cheap and ridiculously cheerful.

Osanai

SEAFOOD

¥

( MAP ; おさない; 1-1-17 Shin-machi; items from ¥450; h7am-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

In a town that knows how to handle a bivalve, Osanai has a stellar reputation

among locals for its simple and cheap hotate (scallops). The menu includes

marucchi tsumire soba (dumplings made from apple and scallops on hot

soba noodles). We preferred ours simply hot and buttery. Located at the

beginning of busy Shinmachi-dōri.

A-Factory

BREWERY

( MAP ; エーファクトリー; %017-752-1890; 1-4-2 Yanagigawa; h11am-8pm)

This rather hip complex features a cider brewery and food hall (meals from

¥600) alongside a lovely market space selling high-quality Aomori

souvenirs. Sup sparkling cider made from Aomori-grown apples while

downing excellent burgers and artisan gelati in front of high windows with

water views. A delightful place to while away an afternoon.

8 Information

Aomori Station Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; 青森市観光交流情報

センター; %017-723-4670; www.city.aomori.aomori.jp; 1-1-25 Shinmachi; h8.30am-7pm) Pick up useful English-language maps and brochures about Aomori – both the

city and the prefecture. Staff speak English.

Shin-Aomori Station Tourist Information Center ( MAP ; あおもり観光情

報センター; %017-752-6311; 140-2 Ishie Takama; h8.30am-7pm) On the 2nd floor of

the shinkansen terminus; ask here for info on all things Aomori and journeys

north to Hokkaidō.

Aomori City Hospital (青森市民病院; %24hr emergency hotline 017-734-2171; 1-14-

20 Katsuda; houtpatient services 9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

DON’T MISS

BEST FOR SKIING

A Zaō Onsen

A Naeba

A Tazawa-ko

A Gala Yuzawa

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

From Aomori Airport, 11km south of the city centre, there are flights to and

from Tokyo, Osaka, Sapporo and Seoul. Airport buses (¥700, 35 minutes)

are timed for flights and depart from stop 11 in front of JR Aomori Station.

BOAT

Sii Line (シィライン; %017-722-4545; www.sii-line.co.jp) ferries depart at least

twice daily for Wakinosawa on the Shimokita Peninsula (¥2610, one hour)

from Aomori-kō Ryokyaku Fune Terminal (青森港旅客船ターミナル).

Tsugaru Kaikyō (津軽海峡; %017-766-4733; www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp) operates eight ferries daily between Aomori and Hakodate (from ¥2020, 3½ hours) year-round. Ferries depart from Aomori Ferry Terminal (青森フェリーターミナ

ル) on the western side of the city, a 10-minute taxi ride (around ¥2000)

from JR Aomori Station. The Nebutan Gō shuttle also stops there.

BUS

JR highway buses connect Aomori to Sendai (¥6000, five hours) and Tokyo

(from ¥9000, 9½ hours). Alight at the JR highway bus stop outside Aomori

JR train station.

Aomori city buses depart from stop 11 for Hakkōda (¥1100, one hour) and

Towada-ko (¥3090, three hours); schedules vary seasonally and are

infrequent during winter. See www.jrbustohoku.co.jp.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Toyota Rent a Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; トヨタレンタカー; %017-782-0100;

http://rent.toyota.co.jp; 104-79 Ishie Takama; h8am-8pm) Can be found outside the west exit of the Shin-Aomori shinkansen station and also has branches a few

blocks from JR Aomori Station.

TRAIN

The Tōhoku shinkansen runs roughly every hour from Tokyo Station, via

Sendai and Morioka, to the terminus at Shin-Aomori Station (¥17,350, 3¼

hours).

Futsū (local) trains on the JR Ōu main line connect Aomori with Shin-

Aomori (¥190, five minutes) and Hirosaki (¥670, 50 minutes). A few JR

Tsugaru tokkyū (limited express) trains run daily between Aomori and Akita

(¥5400, three hours) on the same line.

Hourly tokkyū (limited express) trains run on the JR Tsugaru-Kaikyō line

between Aomori and Hakodate on Hokkaidō (¥3240, two hours), via the

Seikan Tunnel.

One daily kaisoku (rapid train) on the JR Ōminato line connects Aomori

and Shimokita (¥2700, 1½ hours). Otherwise take a futsū train on the private

Aoimori Tetsudō line and transfer at Noheji for the JR Ōminato line (¥2180,

1¾ hours).

8 Getting Around

Nebutan Gō shuttle buses (single ride/day pass ¥200/500) circle the city,

connecting Shin-Aomori Station, JR Aomori Station, Aomori Ferry Terminal

and most city sights. They may be less direct than regular municipal buses,

but are the most economical way to get around the city. Buy tickets on

board, or from any of the tourist offices. Buses depart from the Aomori City

Bus Terminal (Aomori JR train station), plus numerous stops in between.

Hirosaki 弘前

%0172 / POP 172,400

Surprisingly hip Hirosaki (弘前) is an enigmatic historic town with rightful

claims as the cultural capital of the prefecture, a step up from the blander

capital just a few stops down the train line. Set in the shadow of the

impressive Iwaki-san, the town has a youthful quality that belies its feudal

past under the Tsugaru clan. Its semi-rural setting is complemented by

beautiful parks, a wonderful temple district and some living history to be

discovered in the spread-out backstreets, while its variety of boutique

fashion stores, one-room bars and stylish cafes create a lasting impression.

Hirosaki

1 Sights

1 Fujita Memorial Garden

A2

2 Hirosaki-jō

A1

3 Hirosaki-kōen

A2

4 Neputa Mura

B1

4 Sleeping

5 Dormy Inn Hirosaki

B2

6 Ishiba Ryokan

B2

7 Super Hotel Hirosaki

C3

5 Eating

8 Kadare Yokochō

B2

9 Kikufuji

C2

10 Manchan

B2

11 Rairai-ken

A2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

12 Cembalo

B2

13 Robbin’s Nest

D3

7 Shopping

Tanaka

(see 8)

8 Information

14 Hirosaki Ekimae Post Office

D3

15 Hirosaki Main Post Office

C2

16 Hirosaki Sightseeing Information Center

B2

17 Hirosaki Station Tourist Information Center

D3

1 Sights

Fujita Memorial Garden

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 藤田記念庭園; %0172-37-5525; 8-1 Kamishirogane; adult/child

¥310/100; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov)

The former home and garden of the wealthy Fujita family, this beautiful

example of a manicured Japanese garden is the second largest in Tōhoku.

Meandering around its many ponds, waterfalls and bridges is a delight. It

also features a wonderful teahouse and a Western-styled Meijiera mansion,

which now serves as a cafe (dessert sets ¥770), replete with grand piano and

lovely terrace with views of the gardens.

Hirosaki-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 弘前公園) Perfect for picnicking, this enormous public park has been shaped over the

centuries by three castle moats, and landscaped with overhanging cherry

trees (more than 5000 in total!) that bloom in late April or early May. The

remains of Hirosaki-jō lie at the heart of the park. It’s a lovely spot for

cycling.

Apple Park

PARK

(リンゴ公園; %0172-36-7439; www.city.hirosaki.aomori.jp/ringopark; Shimizu Tomita Aza Terasawa 125; happle season Aug-Nov; c)

In season, an excursion to this working orchard in full view of regal Iwaki-

san is an ideal family activity. Apple-picking tours leave every 30 minutes

during the harvest season. It’s possible to ride bikes here, but driving or

catching the bus from the train station can be a better option. Check the

website for details.

Neputa Mura

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ねぷた村; %0172-39-1511; 61 Kamenoko-machi; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-5pm)

Come here to see some of Hirosaki’s huge Neputa festival lanterns and try

your hand at the giant taiko (drums). There are also exhibitions of local

crafts. It’s a short walk from the Bunka Center stop on the Dotemachi Loop

Bus.

Hirosaki-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 弘前城; adult/child ¥300/100; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov) At the heart of Hirosaki-kōen lie the ancient remains of this castle, originally

constructed in 1611. Rather tragically, only 16 years after it was built the

castle was struck by lightning and burnt to the ground. Two centuries on, one

of the corner towers was rebuilt and today it houses a small museum

showcasing samurai weaponry.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

IWAKI-SAN & SHIRAKAMI-SANCHI

Looming over Hirosaki, sacred Iwaki-san (岩木山; Mt Iwaki; 1625m) looks remarkably like

Fuji-san from certain angles and at times seems so close you could almost touch it. Should you

wish to, daily buses depart the Hirosaki Station bus terminal for Iwaki-san-jinja (岩木山神社;

¥720, 40 minutes, April to October), where tradition dictates summit-bound travellers should

first make an offering before attempting the ascent. The views from the top are remarkable. A

different trail takes you down, past the smaller peak of Tori-no-umi-san (鳥ノ海山) to the

village of Dake-onsen (岳温泉), from where infrequent buses chug back to Hirosaki (¥1050,

one hour). The entire 9km hike should take you about seven hours.

If you were wondering, Iwaki-san’s last recorded eruption was in 1863.

Southwest of Iwaki-san is the isolated Shirakami-sanchi (白神山地), a World Heritage–

listed virgin forest of Japanese beech trees. From the bus stop at Anmon Aqua Village, an hour-

long trail leads into the woods to the three Anmon Falls (暗門の滝; Anmon-no-taki), the

highest of which is 42m. This is part of the park’s ‘buffer zone’, which is open to the public

without permit. Two buses depart Hirosaki Station bus terminal each morning for Anmon Aqua

Village (one way/return ¥1650/2470, one hour, May to October) and two return in the

afternoon.

Enquire at the helpful Hirosaki Sightseeing Information Center for maps and timetables if

you intend on making either of these trips.

z Festivals & Events

Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival

LIGHT SHOW

(弘前城雪燈籠まつり; Hirosaki-kōen; hFeb)

More than 200 snow lanterns and 300 miniature igloos light up the winter

night in Hirosaki-kōen over five days in February.

Hirosaki Neputa Matsuri

PARADE

(弘前ねぷたまつり; h1-7 Aug)

Giant illuminated floats parade through town, accompanied by flutes and

drums for every night of Hirosaki’s famed Neputa Matsuri. The festival is

considered to signify ceremonial preparation for battle, expressing

sentiments of bravery for what lies ahead and heartache for what lies behind.

4 Sleeping

o Ishiba Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 石場旅館; %0172-32-9118; www.ishibaryokan.com; 55 Mototera-machi; r

per person from ¥4860; pW)

Ishiba is the only decent ryokan within Hirosaki itself, but luckily it’s also

excellent value. Set inside a late 19th-century property a block from the

castle, the bright, large tatami rooms have attractive floor mats and drapes

and face onto a tree-filled garden. Meals and rental bicycles are available.

Dormy Inn Hirosaki

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ドーミーイン弘前; %0172-37-5489; www.hotespa.net; 71-1 Honmachi; s/d from ¥7500/10,000; pnaW)

The colourful Dormy Inn is perfectly placed on a hill near Hirosaki-kōen,

affording glorious views from the rooftop onsen and rotemburo. Rooms are

spotless and larger than average. Welcome touches include free coffee and

apple juice in the lobby, complimentary ramen from 9pm to 11pm, and a

shuttle bus to and from the station.

Super Hotel Hirosaki

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; スーパー ホテル弘前; %0172-35-9000; www.superhoteljapan.com;

148 Dote-machi; s ¥5000-7700, d ¥6200-12,800; paW)

In the hip part of Dote-machi is this discreet business hotel, where the

concrete facade belies the personal touches awaiting inside. Pillow menus, a

small onsen, bicycle hire and an effortless check-in lift this hotel above its

many competitors.

5 Eating

The best restaurants are along Dote-machi.

o Kadare Yokochō

FOOD HALL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かだれ横丁; %0172-38-2256; www.kadare.info; 2-1 Hyakkoku-machi;

dishes from ¥400; h3-11pm; Wv)

In the evening university students flock to this nondescript office building

housing eight tiny restaurants, most doubling as bars. It’s a lively local hang-

out. Hinata-bokko (日向ぼっこ), with the orange noren curtains, is

particularly recommended, turning out excellent hotate misoyaki (grilled

scallops in miso; ¥600) and ikamenchi (fried minced squid; ¥400). English-

language menus are available for most of the stalls.

Rairai-ken

CHINESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 来々軒; %0172-32-4828; 16 Ōaza Shigemorimachi; dishes from ¥650; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Fri-Wed; v)

On the southern side of Hirosaki-kōen, Rairai-ken is a lovely little Chinese

restaurant in the temple district. There are lots of vegetarian options,

including dark-green yasai itame (stir-fried vegetables) and a tofu-laden

yaki-soba (soba noodle stir-fry), although most come for the pork-based

ramen bowls, gyōza (dumplings) and beer.

Manchan

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 万茶ン; %0172-35-4663; 36-6 Dote-machi; apple pie ¥450; h10am-6pm) In business since 1929, this old-fashioned cake and tea shop is said to be the

oldest in Tōhoku. Expect to see arty types with pen in hand (or finger on

screen), nibbling on a slice of famed apple pie coddled in cream. Coffee

fiends shouldn’t miss the siphon-brewed coffee (from ¥400). Look for the

bifurcated cello out front.

Kikufuji

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 菊富士; %0172-36-3300; www.kikufuji.co.jp; 1 Sakamoto-chō; meals from

¥900; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm)

A true local restaurant offering a variety of set meals of hearty stews and

delicate seafood concoctions. There’s also an extensive list of Aomori sake,

which you can try in an otameshi (sampler) set of three. Paper lanterns and

folk music add atmosphere without being kitschy. Look for the vertical white

sign out front.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Cembalo

COFFEE

( MAP ; チェンバロ; %0172-33-6546; 42 Dote-machi; h10.30am-5.30pm Thu-Tue)

Hirosaki’s students head to Cembalo to sip strong coffee and munch on

cinnamon and honey toast while they type ostentatiously on their laptops.

Light and bright, with friendly staff, it’s a perfect break from wandering

nearby Hirosaki-kōen.

Robbin’s Nest

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ロビンズネスト; %090-6450-1730; www.robbins-nest.jp; 1-3-16

Ōmachi; h5pm-late)

This is an excellent Japanese rendition of a British pub. It’s intimate and

there’s no cover charge (except sometimes when bands are playing),

frequent live music, Guinness on tap and a few tables on the outside terrace

for alfresco drinking (in the warmer months).

7 Shopping

Tanaka

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 田中屋; %0172-36-0111; www.tanaka-meisan.jp; 24-10 Dote-machi; h9am-6pm)

Find beautiful examples of boldly coloured tsugaru-nuri (lacquerware from

the Tsugaru region) at this elegant store. Even if you’re not looking to buy

(prices are high) it’s worth stopping in to admire the handiwork of local

artisans.

8 Information

Hirosaki Sightseeing Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 弘前市立観

光館; %0172-37-5501; www.en-hirosaki.com; 2-1 Shimoshirogane-chō; h9am-6pm) Situated inside the Kankōkan (tourism building), you can rent bikes and grab all

manner of English-language materials here. There’s also a cafe and a

souvenir shop.

Hirosaki Station Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 弘前市観

光案内所; %0172-26-3600; h8.45am-6pm; W) On the ground floor of JR Hirosaki

Station. The best way to see the city is by bicycle – rent one here. Very

helpful staff.

8 Getting There & Away

Tokkyū (limited express) trains on the JR Ōu main line run hourly between

Aomori and Hirosaki (¥670, 50 minutes), and Hirosaki and Akita (¥4450,

2¼ hours).

For bus services to other cities, the JR Bus Station is directly in front of

the JR Hirosaki Station.

8 Getting Around

The Dotemachi Loop Bus (single ride ¥100) traverses the downtown area

every 30 minutes from 10am to 6pm; buy tickets on board (exact change

only). It departs from in front of JR Hirosaki Station.

Catch buses around the town from the Hirosaki Bus Terminal, 200m

west from the west exit of the JR station.

Bicycle rental (¥500 per day) is available at either tourist information

centre from May to November.

The Tsugaru free pass (adult/child ¥2060/1030) covers area buses and

trains, including those to Iwaki-san and Shirakami-sanchi, plus a few good

nearby onsen, for two consecutive days. Enquire at the Hirosaki Station

Tourist Information Center.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

AONI ONSEN

You can’t get much more romantic and isolated than Rampu-no-yado (ランプの宿; %0172-54-

8588; www.yo.rim.or.jp/~aoni; 1-7 Aoni-sawa, Taki-no-ue, Okiura, Kuroishi; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥9870, day bathing ¥520; hday bathing 10am-3pm; p) in little Aoni Onsen (青荷温

泉). Plopped in a deep valley surrounded by heavily forested mountains, this rustic ryokan is

the ultimate escape from modernity: oil lamps (rampu) are used to light the corridors, though

electricity has now reached the basic tatami rooms. As the sun goes down and the stars come

out over the valley, the effect is magical. Have your camera and tripod at the ready.

Numerous indoor baths and rotemburo (outdoor baths) are spread over several small wooden

buildings along both sides of a stream, crossed by a footbridge. With the lack of distractions,

you’ll have plenty of time to soak and think about what’s important. Dining is a delicious and

communal affair, featuring hearty, healthy, mostly vegetarian, locavore cuisine.

Aoni Onsen is located alongside Rte 102 between Hirosaki and Towada-ko. Getting here

requires effort or a rental car. Without a car take the private Kōnan Tetsudō rail line from

Hirosaki to Kuroishi (¥460, 30 minutes), then connect with a Kōnan bus for Niji-noko (¥830,

30 minutes), from where shuttle buses run to Aoni (free, 30 minutes, four daily). From

December through March the narrow lane that winds down to Aoni Onsen is closed to private

vehicles – if you’re coming by car, park at the Niji-no-ko bus station and catch the free shuttle

bus.

Advance reservations essential. Credit cards are not accepted; bring cash.

Towada-ko 十和田湖

%0176

Hemmed in by rocky shores and dense forests, sparkling Towada-ko (十和

田湖) is the largest crater lake in Honshū (52km in circumference) and a

fabulous natural attraction for those seeking solitude. Towada-Hachimantai

National Park once bore witness to a series of violent volcanic eruptions;

today the only action is the quiet trickle of the Oirase Keiryū mountain

stream, winding its way to the Pacific Ocean. The main tourist hub,

Yasumiya, is a small village with a lovely waterfront promenade. The other

lakeside village, Nenokuchi, is little more than a transport hub.

Towada-ko

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Oirase Keiryū

B2

4 Sleeping

2 Oirase Keiryū Hotel

B1

3 That Sounds Good

B2

4 Towada Hotel

A3

5 Towadako Backpackers

B3

6 Towadako Oide Camping Ground

A3

5 Eating

7 Marine Blue

A3

2 Activities

o Oirase Keiryū

HIKING

( MAP ; 奥入瀬渓流)

This incredibly picturesque, meandering river is marked by cascading

waterfalls, carved-out gorges and gurgling rapids. Walkers can follow its

path for a 14km stretch connecting Nenokuchi, on the eastern shore of the

lake, to Yakeyama, from where relatively frequent buses return to either

Nenokuchi (¥610, 30 minutes) or the main lakeside tourist hub of Yasumiya

(¥1130, one hour).

The entire hike should take about three hours. Set out in the early morning

or late afternoon to avoid slow-moving coach parties.

4 Sleeping

Yasumiya is the lake’s accommodation hub, with a smattering of hotels and

guesthouses. Other options are scattered around the lakeshore. Rates peak

during August (summer holidays) and October, when autumn leaves blaze

red.

Towadako Backpackers

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 十和田湖バックパッカーズ; %0176-75-2606; www.laketowada.wordpress.com;

116-201 Yasumiya, Towada-ko; dm/s/d incl 2 meals ¥3100/6600/7200; piW)

This is a very unassuming hostel with a terrific communal atmosphere and

hearty, simple meals. Shared facilities are clean and spacious, while the

dormitories are Western-style and comfortable, if a little congested; the twin

cottages are preferable. The location is great, just a steep 10-minute walk to

the lake. Free bike rental available.

Towadako Oide Camping Ground

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP ; 十和田湖生出キャンプ場; %0176-75-2368; www.bes.or.jp/towada; 486 Yasumiya, Towada-kohan; per person ¥300, campsite ¥200, powered sites ¥3000; h25 Apr-5 Nov; p)

This pretty riverside campground has well-maintained facilities, and rental

gear (tents etc) available.

o Oirase Keiryū Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 奥入瀬渓流ホテル; %0176-74-2121; www.oirase-keiryuu.jp; 231 Tochikubo, Oirase; s/d incl 2 meals from ¥18,000/31,000; pW)

One of our favourite hotels in Tōhoku sits by the trailhead for the lovely

Oirase Keiryū hike. It’s just the place to relax after tackling the trail in one of

numerous wood-panelled riverside onsen baths. Rooms are a stylish mix of

Japanese and Western decor, while dining occurs in a kind of forest-facing

hardwood cathedral that fills with natural light.

Free transfers from Shin-Aomori Station are available.

Towada Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 十和田ホテル; %0176-75-1122; www.towadahotel.com; Namariyama, Kosaka-machi; r

per person incl 2 meals from ¥14,000; pW)

The pre-WWII Towada Hotel has a dramatic lobby of hulking timbers, rising

to a chandelier-lit cathedral ceiling. The historic main building has elegant

Japanese-style rooms (with and without baths); avoid the drab Western-style

annexe. All have lake views, as do the communal baths. Dining is a treat.

A path leads from the hotel to the lake’s secluded southwestern shore.

5 Eating

There are a few simple tourist restaurants and a grocery store in Yasumiya,

but nothing stays open after sunset. Most travellers eat at their

accommodation.

Marine Blue

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; マリンブルー; %0179-75-3025; www.marineblue.jp; Kosaka-machi, Yasumiya; apple pie ¥500; h8am-6pm)

All the coffee shops in Yasumiya have similar offerings – coffee, apple juice

and locally made apple pie – but this one at the southern end of the village

has the best location, right on the lakeshore, with a small terrace overlooking

the water. It also rents out paddleboats (¥1000 per 20 minutes).

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (十和田ビジターセンター; %0176-75-1015; 486

Aza-Towadakohan, Yasumiya; h9am-4.30pm Thu-Tue) In a large wooden building near

the waterfront. Has English-language pamphlets and maps, and also some

interesting displays on the region’s flora and fauna.

8 Getting There & Away

Renting a car from Aomori or Hirosaki will give you the freedom to make

the most of this picturesque and remote area. Rte 103 runs south from

Aomori to Towada-ko.

JR buses run from Aomori, through Yakeyama (¥2300, two hours), to

Towada-ko-eki in Yasumiya (¥3090, three hours); departures are highly

seasonal and infrequent in winter. See www.jrbustohoku.co.jp for schedules.

8 Getting Around

A limited network of local buses run around the lakeside. Infrequent

connections are reason enough to bring your own wheels.

DON’T MISS

BEST HIKES

A Dewa Sanzan

A Hakkōda-san

A Iwaki-san

A Akita Komaga-take

A Oirase Keiryū

Hakkōda-san 八甲田山

%017

Honshū’s northernmost volcanic range is a paradise for hikers between May

and October, while in winter months, serious powder fiends descend, off-

piste, for some of the best untapped skiing and snowboarding in Japan. For

those needing to thaw, Hakkōdasan (八甲田山) is also home to one of

Tōhoku’s best onsen, Sukayu.

The Hakkōda-san area is synonymous with a sad history: in 1902 a

regiment of 210 Japanese soldiers on a winter training exercise were caught

here in a severe snowstorm. All but 11 perished, carving out a place for

Hakkōda-san in the collective Japanese psyche.

1 Sights & Activities

Hakkōda Ropeway

CABLE CAR

(八甲田山ロープウェー; %017-738-0343; www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp; 1-12 Kansuizawa,

Arakawa; one way/return ¥1180/1850; h9am-4.20pm Mar-Oct, to 3.40pm Nov-Feb)

For anyone wanting a taste of the alpine without having to brave the steep

ascent, this scenic ropeway whisks you quickly up to the summit of

Tamoyachi-dake (田茂萢岳; 1324m). From there you can follow an

elaborate network of hiking trails, although purists prefer the magnificent

one-day Hakkōda-san loop that starts and finishes just outside the Sukayu

Onsen Ryokan.

o Hakkōda-san

HIKING

(八甲田山)

Hakkōda-san’s gruelling but rewarding 12km day hike begins from the car

park above Sukayu Onsen Ryokan, in the shadow of Ōdake (大岳; 1584m).

The ridge trail continues to Ido-dake (井戸岳; 1550m) and Akakura-dake

(赤倉岳; 1548m) before connecting with Tamoyachi-dake (田茂萢岳;

1324m) and looping via the ropeway back to Sukayu ryokan.

Things start out relatively flat as you wind through marshlands, but

eventually the pitch starts to increase: a good level of fitness and some

hiking experience is recommended. If you time your hike for mid- to late

October, expect to whip your camera out for the early autumn foliage.

Hakkōda Ski Park

SNOW SPORTS

(八甲田スキー場; %017-738-0343; www.hakkoda-ski.com; 5-ride pass ¥5050; h9am-4.20pm)

For all its fluffy white goodness, Tamoyachi-dake (田茂萢岳; 1324m) is a

fairly modest set-up, with five official runs (three groomed, two ungroomed)

beginning at the top of the Hakkōda Ropeway. A two-seater chairlift serves

two of the easier runs, while the 5km Forest Course, which cuts through the

treeline, is for serious players only.

Note that weather conditions can suddenly become severe and getting lost

is easy. Equipment rental (¥3500 per day) and a handful of dining options

are available in the ropeway terminals.

Come spring it’s possible to explore a network of unofficial hiking trails

that extend to some of the nearby peaks. Even experienced alpinists should

only go backcountry with a local guide.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hikers and campers should bring their own supplies. Most accommodation

options can provide proper meals.

Sukayu Camping Ground

CAMPGROUND

¥

(酸ヶ湯キャンプ場; %017-738-6566; www.sukayu.jp/camp; per person ¥500, campsite from

¥500; hJun-Oct; p)

Campers will be pleased with this lush, open campsite, with clean facilities

and rental equipment available. It’s located at the end of a small access road

immediately south of Sukayu Onsen Ryokan, a short stroll from the

Hakkōda-san trailhead.

o Sukayu Onsen Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(酸ヶ湯温泉; %017-738-6400; www.sukayu.jp; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8000, day

bathing ¥600-1000; hday bathing 7am-5.30pm; p)

Straight from an ukiyo-e (woodblock print), Sukayu’s cavernous, dark-

wooded bathhouse is a delight for the senses. The water is hot, acidic and

sulphurous (don’t get it in your eyes) – nothing beats the feel of its

penetrating heat. Note that the main bath is konyoku (mixed bathing). Rooms

in the sprawling old-fashioned inn are simple but comfortable, with shared

facilities.

Hakkōda-sansō

LODGE

¥¥

(八甲田山荘; %017-728-1512; www.hakkodasanso.com; 1-61 Kansuizawa, Arakawa; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥6000; pnW)

This basic ski lodge is conveniently located right at the base of the Hakkōda

Ropeway. Rooms have their own TV, but not all enjoy mountain views. The

dining area, with picture windows facing the slopes, also serves lunch.

Hakkōda Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(八甲田ホテル; %017-728-2000; www.hakkodahotel.co.jp; 1 Minami-arakawayama, Arakawa;

s/d incl breakfast from ¥22,000/27,000; pnaW)

Great for powder hounds in winter and hikers in summer, this mountain

lodge appeals to muscle-sore adrenaline junkies, who like to dump their gear

and pass out, then wake up at dinnertime to eat like royalty. It’s open and

spacious, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It’s not cheap,

but you can save by self-catering at dinner.

8 Getting There & Away

JR buses leave from stop 11 outside JR Aomori Station, stopping at Hakkōda

Ropeway train station (¥1100, one hour) and the next stop, Sukayu Onsen

(¥1340, 70 minutes). The bus continues to Towada-ko train station (from

Sukayu ¥2080, 1½ hours). Bus schedules vary seasonally. See

www.jrbustohoku.co.jp.

Shimokita Peninsula 下北半島

%0175

Wild, short-legged horses, craggy rock formations, lush, forested mountains

and a frontier history give the remote, axe-shaped Shimokita Peninsula (下

北半島; Shimokitahantō) the air of travel legend. Jet-black ravens swarm

about its sulphur-infused tributaries, where some locals believe Buddhist

souls come if they cannot rest. The region is centred on Osore-zan (恐山;

874m), a barren volcano that is regarded as one of the most sacred places in

Japan.

There are four main towns on the peninsula: Mutsu (first if arriving by car

or train), Wakinosawa (first if arriving by ferry), Ōma (the furthest point

north on the Japanese mainland) and Sai (the departure point for boats to

Hotoke-ga-ura).

1 Sights & Activities

o Osorezan-bodaiji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(恐山菩提寺; %0175-22-3825; adult/child ¥500/400; h6am-6pm May-Oct)

This holy shrine at Osore-zan’s summit is a moving, mesmerisingly

atmospheric and beautiful place honouring Jizō Bosatsu, protector of

children and a much-loved deity in Japanese mythology. It’s also said to be

located at the entrance to hell: a small brook that flows into the beautiful

crater lake, Usori, is said to represent the legendary Sanzu river, which souls

must cross on their way to the afterlife. Fittingly people visit to mourn lost

children or to commune with the dead.

Several stone statues of Jizō overlook hills of craggy, sulphur-strewn

rocks and hissing vapour. Visitors are encouraged to help lost souls with

their underworld penance by adding stones to the cairns. You can even bathe

on hell’s doorstep at the free onsen off to the side as you approach the main

hall. Allow an hour or two to wander the landscape in deep contemplation.

Five daily buses run to and from JR Shimokita Station and Osore-zan

(¥800, 45 minutes). If you’d like to spend more time on the mountain, it is

possible to stay overnight at the temple (¥12,000 per person including two

meals); reserve in advance.

Hotoke-ga-ura

BOATING

(仏ヶ浦; www.saiteikikanko.jp)

The western edge of the peninsula is a spectacular stretch of coastline dotted

with 100m-high, wind-carved cliffs, which are said to resemble images of

Buddha. For non-drivers, five daily boats depart for 90-minute sightseeing

round trips from Sai to Hotoke-ga-ura between May and October (¥2400).

Services are often suspended in poor weather.

4 Sleeping

A few basic business hotels are found in Mutsu, close to the Shimokita JR

train station. Most people, however, visit on a day trip from Aomori.

o Wakinosawa Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(脇野沢ユースホステル; %0175-44-2341; www.wakinosawa.com; 41 Senokawame,

Wakinosawa; dm ¥4200, breakfast/dinner ¥630/1050; pnW) F

Run by a wildlife photographer who takes pride in the region’s natural

attractions (including snow monkeys!), this remote hostel is perched on a

hillside at Wakinosawa, about 15 minutes west of the ferry pier – call ahead

for a pick-up. There’s a homely feel about the wooden rooms, which are a

touch above typical hostel standard.

While it helps to speak a bit of Japanese, the genial owners are extremely

accommodating.

ŌMA TUNA

Ōma, at the tip of the Shimokita Peninsula, may look like the end of the earth, but it’s the centre

of the universe when it comes to tuna. The frigid waters of the Tsugaru Strait directly off the

coast are said to yield the tastiest maguro (bluefin tuna) in Japan. At the height of the season,

prize catch can sell for up to ¥25,000 per kilogram.

Ōma’s fishing co-ops catch fish the old-fashioned way, with hand lines and live bait (and a

lot of muscle – these fish are enormous). It’s a way of life that sets them squarely against large-

scale commercial interests and in favour of greater regulation to protect the bluefin population.

Tuna is caught fresh between late August and January, although most shops close up by mid-

November when the cold winds turn fierce.

You’ll see it on the menu at restaurants all over the peninsula. If you make the trip up to

Ōma, try Kaikyōsō (海峡荘; %0175-37-3691; 17-734 Ōma-taira, Ōma; meals from ¥1200;

h11am-3pm late Apr-early Nov). The bright-green building (which looks more like a hardware

store than a purveyor of fine raw fish) does an excellent maguro-don (tuna sashimi over rice)

with thick, melt-in-your-mouth cuts of akami (lean red meat), chū-toro (medium-grade fatty

tuna) and ō-toro (top-grade fatty tuna).

8 Getting There & Away

BOAT

Sii Line operates at least two daily ferries between Wakinosawa and Aomori

(¥2610, one hour).

Tsugaru Kaikyō runs two to three ferries daily from Ōma to Hakodate on

Hokkaidō (adult/car from ¥1810/9870, 1½ hours).

TRAIN

Trains traverse the JR Ōminato line between Aomori and Mutsu (¥2180, 1½

to two hours), with most requiring a change at Noheji. There are two stations

in Mutsu: Shimokita and Ōminato. The first is of the most use to travellers,

as most buses depart from there for other locations across the peninsula.

8 Getting Around

It’s best to have a car to explore these parts.

From May to October there are up to five buses departing from JR

Shimokita Station for Osore-zan (¥800, 45 minutes). Year-round, buses

connect Shimokita and Ōma (¥1990, two hours). There are a few buses each

day to Wakinosawa from JR Ōminato Station (¥1800, 70 minutes).

AKITA PREFECTURE 秋田県

Akita Prefecture (秋田県; Akita-ken) nestles between the Sea of Japan and

the spectacular Oū-sanmyaku and Dewa ranges, where hikers and pilgrims

navigate their way to shrines and summits. In a prefecture overflowing with

high-altitude hot springs, Nyūtō Onsen stands out for its variety of

accommodation and its proximity to Tazawako, an under-visited volcanic

lake perfect for swimming in summer. The charming feudal city of

Kakunodate is the cultural highlight of the region – its old samurai houses,

pine-lined streets and cherry-tree-covered riverbanks make it one of the most

photogenic historic towns in Japan.

4 Sleeping

Akita has several smart business hotels, while Kakunodate has some decent

guesthouses. In the mountainous areas, look for ryokan and onsen hotels,

especially around Nyūtō Onsen.

Akita’s countryside has dozens of nōka minshuku (farmhouse inns). For a

complete list (in Japanese), see www.akita-gt.org/stay.

Akita 秋田

%018 / POP 315,814

Akita (秋田) is a busy and compact industrial city in the west of the

prefecture, which serves as a transport hub for travel along the west coast or

as a base for trips to Kakunodate and Tazawa-ko. Like many Japanese cities,

it has a fine public museum and park complex, and a better-than-average

entertainment district.

Akita

1 Sights

1 Akita Museum of Art

B2

2 Neburi Nagashi Kan

A2

3 Senshū-kōen

C1

4 Sleeping

4 Akita Castle Hotel

B2

5 Naniwa Hotel

D4

5 Eating

6 Kanbun Gonendō

B3

7 Nagaya Sakaba

C3

8 Transport

8 Toyota Rent a Car

C3

1 Sights

Akita’s few sights are in the city centre near the train station, so you can

easily explore on foot.

Senshū-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 千秋公園; %018-832-5893) Locals flock to this lush, leafy oasis on sunny days. The grounds were

originally home to Akita’s castle, built in 1604, which was destroyed with

other feudal relics during the Meiji Restoration. A picturesque, waterlily-

choked moat still guards the entrance to the park, and a few pieces of the

castle foundation remain, along with plenty of grassy patches and strolling

paths. A reconstruction of a guard tower in the northwestern corner offers

views over the city (¥100).

Neburi Nagashi Kan

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 民俗芸能伝承館, Folk Performing Arts Heritage Center; %018-866-7091; 1-3-30 Ō-

machi; adult/child ¥100/free, with Akarenga-kan Museum ¥250/free; h9.30am-4.30pm)

If you can’t make it to town for the Kantō Matsuri pole lantern festival, this

small museum is the next best thing. The highlight is a large hall with

displays of sky-high poles adorned with dozens of paper lanterns. Try to

time your visit to coincide with the Kantō demonstrations (weekends at

1.30pm and 2.10pm).

The museum is also home to the restored Old Kaneko Family House, built

in 1887.

Akita Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 秋田県立美術館; %018-853-8686; www.akitamuseum-of-art.jp; 1-4-2

Naka-dōri; adult/child ¥310/free, up to ¥800 during temporary exhibitions; h10am-6pm)

Akita’s most famous artwork, Tsuguharu Foujita’s Events of Akita, is reputed

to be the world’s largest canvas painting, measuring 3.65m by 20.5m and

depicting traditional Akita life through the seasons. It’s the clear highlight of

an otherwise fairly underwhelming collection in this Tadao Ando–designed

museum, which also hosts regular temporary exhibitions. Visitors can rest in

the 2nd-floor cafe, from where the reflecting pool seems to run directly into

Senshū-kōen’s moat.

z Festivals & Events

Akita Kantō Matsuri

CULTURAL

(秋田竿燈まつり; www.kantou.gr.jp; h3-6 Aug)

At summer’s height, Akita celebrates its visually stunning pole lantern

festival. As evening falls more than 160 performers skilfully balance giant

poles, weighing 60kg and hung with illuminated lanterns, on their heads,

chins, hips and shoulders, to the beat of taiko drumming groups.

4 Sleeping

Naniwa Hotel

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルなにわ; %018-832-4570; www.hotelnaniwa.jp; 6-18-27 Naka-dōri; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥6000; pnaW)

A lovely mamasan oversees this quaint budget guesthouse. The rooms are on

the small side, but the beautiful 24-hour hinoki (cypress bath), massage

chairs and homemade meals more than compensate for the cramped quarters.

Pick-ups from the station are possible if you speak some Japanese, though

it’s not far to walk. It’s in a red building with a wooden entrance.

Akita Castle Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 秋田キャッスルホテル; %018-834-1141; www.castle-hotel.co.jp; 1-

3-5 Naka-dōri; s/d from ¥6000/11,000; pnaiW)

In a prime position near Senshū-kōen, Akita Castle Hotel is the most

distinguished option in the city. Service is measured and thorough; ask for

one of the rooms overlooking the park.

5 Eating

Kanbun Gonendō

UDON

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 寛文五年堂; %0120-17-2886; www.kanbun5.jp; 1-4-3 Naka-dōri; noodles from ¥800; h11am-10pm; v)

This bright, well-regarded shop specialises in inaniwa udon, a thin chewy

wheat noodle that originated in Akita Prefecture in the 1600s. Locals seek

out the delicacy, often served cold with various sauces, while on shopping

forays around the Naka-Ichi centre. Vegetarian dishes are available; ask

before ordering.

Nagaya Sakaba

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 秋田長屋酒場; %018-837-0505; www.marutomisuisan.jpn.com/nagaya-

akita; 4-16-17 Naka-dōri; small dishes from ¥600; h5pm-late)

Rebuilt after a 2017 fire, Nagaya Sakaba is easy to spot due to the massive

Namahage demons above the entrance. Sake flows freely once you’ve

negotiated the Japanese-only menu. If in doubt, just shout ‘osusume’

(recommendation) and staff will happily bring various fish dishes

accompanied by the signature pounded rice cake.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (秋田市観光案内所; %018-832-7941;

www.akitacity.info; h9am-7pm) Opposite the shinkansen tracks on the 2nd floor of JR Akita Station. Staff speak some English.

Akita Red Cross Hospital (秋田赤十字病院; %24hr emergency hotline 018-829-

5000; www.akita-med.jrc.or.jp; 222-1 Nawashiro-sawa; houtpatient services 8-11.30am Mon-Fri) Located 5km southeast of the train station, off Rte 41.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

From Akita Airport, 21km south of the city centre, flights go to/from Tokyo,

Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo and Seoul. Frequent buses (¥930, 40 minutes) leave

for the airport from the west exit at JR Akita Station.

BOAT

From the port of Akita-kō, 8km northwest of the city, Shin Nihonkai (新日

本海; %018-880-2600; www.snf.jp) has ferries to Tomakomai on Hokkaidō (from

¥4730, 10 hours), departing at 6.50am from Tuesday to Sunday (less often in

winter). A connecting bus departs from platform 11 outside JR Akita Station

(¥440, 30 minutes).

BUS

Highway buses depart from the west exit of the train station, and connect

Akita to major cities throughout Honshū.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Rental-car outlets are scattered around the train station, including the reliable

Toyota Rent a Car (トヨタレンタカー; %018-833-0100; www.rent.toyota.co.jp; 4-6-5

Naka-dōri; h8am-8pm), a few minutes’ walk west.

TRAIN

The JR Akita shinkansen (bullet train) runs hourly between the northern

terminus of Akita and the southern terminus of Tokyo (¥17,800, four hours)

via Kakunodate (¥3020, 45 minutes) and Tazawa-ko (¥3360, one hour).

Infrequent local trains also run on the JR Ōu main line between Akita and

Kakunodate (¥1320, 1½ hours), with a change at Ōmagari to the JR

Tazawako line. There are a few tokkyū (limited express) trains each day on

the JR Inaho line, connecting Akita with Niigata (¥7210, 3½ hours).

RESORT SHIRAKAMI TRAIN

If you plan to go from Akita to Aomori, a great way to travel is via the fabulous three-hour

Resort Shirakami ‘resort train’ (¥4950, three daily).

Kakunodate 角館

%0187 / POP 12,500

Descendants of the Satake clan in Kakunodate (角館) can look back proudly

at the architectural and aesthetic vision of their forebears. The buke yashiki

(samurai district) is arguably the finest in the country; most of its buildings

are still in perfect working order and are open to visitors. Horticulturalists,

meanwhile, will delight in the manicured gardens and cherry trees that

welcome trainloads of domestic tourists to this living relic of feudal Japan.

The town was established in 1620 by Ashina Yoshikatsu, the lord of the

Satake clan, and is well protected by mountains on three sides.

1 Sights

Andō Brewery

BREWERY

(安藤醸造; %0187-53-2008; 27 Shimo-Shinmachi; h11am-5pm) F

Rows of Hinamatsuri dolls welcome visitors to this centuries-old brewery

overseen by one of the oldest families in Akita Prefecture. Andō makes soy

sauce and miso (sorry, tipplers, not that kind of brewery!) in a beautiful,

brick storehouse from the late 19th century. You can tour a few rooms and

sample the wares (for free!) in the cosy cafe. There are also all sorts of soy-

flavoured products available for purchase, from sauce to ice cream.

Bukeyashiki Ishiguro-ke

HISTORIC BUILDING

(武家屋敷石黒家; %0187-55-1496; 1 Omote-machi; adult/child ¥400/200; h9am-5pm)

Built in 1809 as the residence of the Ishiguro family, advisers to the Satake

clan, this is one of the oldest buildings in the samurai district. Descendants

of the family still live here, and offer tours around parts of the house. In

addition to samurai gear, don’t miss the weathered maps and the precision

scales for doling out rice.

Aoyagi Samurai Manor Museum

MUSEUM

(角館歴史村青柳家; Kakunodate Rekishi-mura Aoyagi-ke; %0187-54-3257;

www.samuraiworld.com; 3 Omote-machi; adult/child ¥500/200; h9am-5pm, to 4.30pm in winter) The restored Aoyagi family compound is impressive in its own right, but

inside each well-maintained structure is a fascinating exhibition of family

heirlooms. The collection spans generations and includes centuries-old

samurai weaponry, folk art and valuable antiques, along with gramophones

and classic jazz records.

Kakunodate Cherry-Bark Craft Center

ARTS CENTRE

(角館樺細工伝承館, Kakunodate Kabazaiku Denshōkan; %0187-54-1700; 10-1 Omote-machi;

adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Mar)

Inside this elegant building you’ll find exhibits and demonstrations of

kabazaiku, the craft of covering household or decorative items in fine strips

of cherry bark. This pursuit was first taken up by lower-ranking and

masterless samurai in times of hardship.

z Festivals & Events

Kakunodate Sakura

CULTURAL

(角館の桜; hmid-Apr–early May)

On the river embankment, a 2km stretch of cherry trees becomes a tunnel of

pure pink during the hanami (blossom viewing) season. Some of the

shidare-zakura (drooping cherry) trees in the buke yashiki (samurai district)

are up to 300 years old.

4 Sleeping

Kakunodate has some lovely atmospheric places to stay, as well as a handful

of business hotels. Room rates rise sharply during festivals and in cherry-

blossom season (mid-April to early May).

Iori

MINSHUKU

¥

(庵; %0187-55-2262; www.akita-gt.org/stay/minshuku/iori.html; 65 Maeda, Ogata; r per person incl

1/2 meals ¥5000/6000; p)

Kakunodate is still a largely agricultural community, and this working farm

nestled among rice paddies 3km north of the train station provides an

authentic opportunity to experience its peaceful rural setting.

Accommodation is in stylish, minimalist cabins with whitewashed walls,

dark-wood beams, fresh tatami and indigo cushions; it’s great value,

especially with meals included.

Pick-up from Kakunodate Station is possible.

Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

(田町武家屋敷ホテル; %0187-52-1700; www.bukeyashiki.jp; 23 Ta-machi; r per person from

¥13,500; paW)

With an idyllic location in the historic Bukeyashiki area, Tamachi is a

surprisingly modern hotel, blending Japanese and Western aesthetics. All

rooms have the requisite dark wooden beams and paper lanterns, but the

communal areas are largely typical of European boutique hotels.

o Wabizakura

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(わびざくら; %0187-47-3511; www.wabizakura.com; 2-8 Sasayama, Nishikichokadoya; r per

person incl 2 meals ¥38,000; paW)

Deep within the forest, surrounded by trees, this stunning ryokan is housed

in a 200-year-old building that was carefully relocated from Iwate

Prefecture. With distinct Western interiordesign influences, Wabizakura (a

type of cherry blossom) is popular with well-off Tokyoites seeking refined

solitude in a historical setting. The 10 suites include outdoor onsen and

stylish lounge areas. Very hard to leave.

It’s 15km from Kakunodate; pick-up from the train station is available

with advance reservation.

5 Eating

There are a number of pleasant places to eat near the train station, but the

best options are in the old town.

Kosendō

SOBA

¥

(古泉洞; %0187-53-2902; 9 Higashi-katsuraku-chō; noodles from ¥1050; h10am-4pm)

The best noodles in town are found in this 250-year-old Edo-era wooden

schoolhouse. The house speciality is buke-soba served with takenoko

(bamboo shoots) and tempura-fried ōba (large Japanese basil leaf). Little has

changed here in years, including the regular clientele and the travellers who

seek it out.

It’s in the middle of the buke yashiki (samurai district); look for the

wooden sign above the entrance. There’s a pleasant gift shop out the back.

Nishi-no-miyake

JAPANESE

¥¥

(西宮家レストラン北蔵; %0187-52-2438; www.nishinomiyake.jp; 11-1 Kami-chō, Tamachi;

meals from ¥1100; h11am-5pm; p)

Halfway between the train station and the sightseeing district, this samurai

house has been partly converted into a stylish cafe. The menu spans the ages,

but mostly serves elegant yōshoku (Japanese-style Western food). The tea

and cake selection is equally tempting.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (角館町観光協会; %0187-54-2700; h9am-6pm) Pick

up very handy English walking maps and store luggage in this small building

shaped like a kura (traditional Japanese storehouse) outside the train station.

8 Getting There & Around

Several of the shinkansen on the Akita line run hourly between Kakunodate

and Tazawa-ko (¥1590, 15 minutes), and between Kakunodate and Akita

(¥3020, 45 minutes).

Local trains also run infrequently on the JR Tazawako line between

Kakunodate and Tazawako (¥320, 20 minutes), and between Kakunodate

and Akita (¥1320, 1½ hours), with a change at Ōmagari to the JR Ōu main

line.

Bicycle hire (bikes per hour from ¥300) is available across from the train

station.

Tazawa-ko 田沢湖

%0187 / POP 3675

Cobalt-blue Tazawa-ko (田沢湖) feels isolated despite being accessible by

shinkansen. There are some well-serviced beaches, plus a few where you’ll

have the natural world to yourself. Some strange creatures from the blue

lagoon may have yet to surface – at 423m, Tazawa-ko is Japan’s deepest

lake.

The nearby mountains offer excellent views of the lake, and four seasons

of activity, including skiing. It’s highly recommended to pick up a rental car

at Tazawa-ko Station for a night or two to make the most of the lake and

nearby Nyūtō Onsen.

1 Sights

Tazawa-ko

LAKE

(田沢湖)

The under-visited beach at Shirahama (白浜) is a real find for open-water

swimmers and beach bums due to its clear-blue water, shallow entry and

breathtaking mountain backdrop, but is only recommended during summer

when the crispness has left the air. Rent paddleboats at the nearby boathouse

from spring to autumn. Romantic sunset strolls are highly recommended any

time of year: on the lake’s eastern shore, you’ll find Tazawa-ko’s famed

bronze statue of the legendary beauty Tatsuko.

A 20km road wraps around the lake, perfect for a slow drive or vigorous

cycle – bike rentals are available in the small village of Tazawa Kohan (¥400

per hour from). Sightseeing buses depart Tazawa-ko Station and loop around

the lake, stopping for 15 minutes to admire the statue of Tatsuko. Scenic

boat rides are available from Shirahama (¥1200, 40 minutes, every two

hours May to October).

Tatsuko

STATUE

Legend has it that long ago, a local maiden, Tatsuko, believing that the

spring water would make her beauty last forever, drank so much that she

turned into a dragon, and remains in the lake to this day. She was joined by

another dragon, formerly a prince, as her lover, and their passionate

nocturnal antics are the reason Tazawa-ko doesn’t freeze in winter! On the

lake’s western shore you’ll find a large bronze statue of Tatsuko, sculpted by

Funakoshi Yasutake.

2 Activities

o Akita Komaga-take

HIKING

(秋田駒ヶ岳)

These mountains, straddling the border with Iwate Prefecture, are admired

for summer wildflowers, autumn foliage and a rare prevalence of both dry

and wet plant species. Over two days you can pursue a 17km course that

takes in three peaks, overnights in a picturesque mountain hut and ends with

a rewarding soak in the healing waters of Nyūtō Onsen.

Access the trailhead at Komaga-take Hachigōme (eighth station) by taking

one of seven daily buses (all departing before 1.30pm) from Tazawa-ko

Station (¥1120, one hour). From the eighth station, it’s a two-hour hike to the

summit of Oname-dake (男女岳; 1637m) before pressing on to the eastern

edge of the oval-shaped pond below and claiming your space at the Amida-

ike Hinan Goya (阿弥陀池避難小屋) unstaffed mountain hut; it’s

recommended that you leave a small tip (¥1000). You can also double-back

for 20 minutes or so and scale O-dake (男岳; 1623m).

On the second day, it’s a seven-hour descent to Nyūtō Onsen, including

first reaching the summit of Yoko-dake (横岳; 1583m). The trail down

follows the ridge line most of the way before winding through expansive

marshlands rich with bird life. Emerge at the Nyūtō Onsen bus stop, from

where it’s a short stroll to a heavenly bath.

Tazawako Ski Park

SNOW SPORTS

(田沢湖スキー場; %0187-46-2011; www.tazawako-ski.com; 73-2 Shimo-takano; 1-day lift

ticket adult/child ¥4000/1000, gear rental per day ¥3600; hDec-Apr)

Skiers in northern Japan are spoiled for choice, so it’s unsurprising that set-

ups like Tazawako Ski Park, the venue for the 2016 World Cup Freestyle

Moguls, are rarely visited by foreigners. Of the 13 or so trails, all but the

1.6km Kokutai and Shirakaba runs are on the shorter side, but with an even

mix of beginner, intermediate and advanced.

The views down the mountain to the nearby shores of Tazawa-ko are

breathtaking.

There’s English signage on the mountains and in the numerous eateries. In

the winter months, buses leaving Tazawa-ko Station for Nyūtō Onsen stop at

Tazawako Sukī-jō (¥550, 30 minutes).

4 Sleeping

There are a couple of hotels and ryokan scattered along the lakeshore, but

many travellers elect to bed down in one of neighbouring Nyūtō Onsen’s

excellent ryokan.

o That Sounds Good

PENSION

¥¥

( MAP ; ペンションサウンズグッド; %0187-43-0127; http://sounds-good.online; 160-58

Kata-mae; r per person incl breakfast from ¥6800; paW)

Room options here range from quaint cottages with private bathrooms to

split-level dwellings where you’re just within snoring distance of your

fellow nature lovers. Activity revolves around an open cafe-bar where meals

are served and from where the sounds of weekend jazz billow out over the

lake. One of the more cosmopolitan places to stay in this part of Japan.

Pick-ups from the train station are available. Drop in, tune out and relax…

why not stay a few days?

Tamagawa Onsen Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(玉川温泉旅館; %0187-58-3000; www.tamagawa-onsen.jp; Shibukurosawa, Tamagawa; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥8000, baths ¥600; hday bathing 7am-5pm; paW)

This very local onsen resort is affordable and fun, especially for those well

versed in Japanese custom (or those happy enough to bumble along!). The

long rows of baths are known for their high acidity, which is supposed to

detox internal organs. The dining area is cafeteria-style, and the rooms are

remarkably spacious, many with Western beds.

Hutte Birke

RYOKAN

¥¥

(ヒュッテ ビルケ; %0187-46-2833; 72 Shimo-takano, Obonai; r per person incl 2 meals ¥8000;

paW)

This modest, very welcoming ryokan servicing the Tazawa-ko ski fields is

well priced and perfect for families. Some of the spacious rooms (only eight

available) interconnect, and the friendly owners are flexible with meal times.

5 Eating

A number of restaurants near the lake serve lunch and dinner, though ideally

you’ll need a car to reach them.

Soba Goro

SOBA

¥

(そば五郎; %0187-43-3511; 59-40 Tazawako Obonai; dishes ¥600-1200; h11am-5pm)

The line of locals out the door at lunchtime is testament to the popularity of

this small restaurant, tucked inside a grocery store opposite the Tazawa-ko

JR station. The menu is simple – soba noodles, hot or cold, served a handful

of ways – and the results simply delicious.

Orae

CAFE

¥¥

(%0187-58-0608; www.orae.net; 37-5 Haru-yama; meals from ¥1100; h11.30am-8pm; p)

Delicious, organic lakeside cafe known for its starring role in a Korean film.

Salads, soups and locally made Kohan No Mori beer make for a very

satisfying lunch – with the added bonus of expansive water views.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (田沢湖観光情報センター, Folake; %0187-43-

2111; h8.30am-5.30pm; W) Inside the train station. Has English maps, bus

timetables for both Tazawa-ko and Nyūtō Onsen, and free wi-fi.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Hourly buses run to Nyūtō Onsen (¥820, 45 minutes) between sunrise and

sunset. Schedules are available from the Tourist Information Center.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Rte 46 connects the Akita Expressway (秋田自動車道) with Tazawa-ko.

TRAIN

JR Tazawa-ko Station is located a few kilometres southeast of the lake in

Semboku and serves as the area’s main access point.

The Akita shinkansen runs several times an hour between Tazawa-ko and

Tokyo (¥16,170, three hours) and between Tazawa-ko and Akita (¥3360, one

hour) via Kakunodate (¥1590, 15 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Frequent local buses run between JR Tazawa-ko Station and Tazawa Kohan

(¥370, 10 minutes), the tourist hub on the eastern shore of the lake. Pick up a

bus timetable from the Tourist Information Center.

Nyūtō Onsen 乳頭温泉

%0187

Named for the bosom-shaped hills from where its famed milky-white waters

spring, Nyūtō Onsen (乳頭温泉; nyūtō means ‘nipple’) is an isolated onsen

village at the end of a mountain road. Offering the practice of konyoku

(mixed-gender bathing), there’s hardly a better place to enjoy nature in all its

glory. Better yet, seven onsen can be visited on a single pass. When it all

gets too hot, you can head downhill for a refreshing dip in, or a wander

around, glittering Tazawa-ko.

2 Activities

Kuroyu Onsen

ONSEN

(黒湯温泉; %0187-46-2214; www.kuroyu.com; 2-1 Kuroyu-zawa; day bathing ¥600; hday

bathing 9am-4pm May–mid-Nov)

Perhaps best visited as a ‘day bather’ (the accommodation is fairly

underwhelming for the price), 300-year-old Kuroyu ryokan has a lovely old-

fashioned feel. The sulphur smell may be a little strong for some, but the

forest setting is the lushest in the area and little touches including waterfall

jets, complimentary towels and rustic wooden changing rooms suggest a

keen awareness of bathers’ wants.

The nearest bus stop is Nyūtō Onsen, a 15-minute walk away.

NYŪTŌ ONSEN PASS

It’s possible to enjoy Nyūtō Onsen’s waters as a day bather. The excellent-value higaeri (day

visit) Yumeguri Pass (¥1800) is available from most inns, which open their baths to nonguests

between check-out and check-in (usually between 10am and 3pm). The pass gets you entry to

seven onsen. Otherwise, you’ll need to pay admission (between ¥500 and ¥1000) at each onsen

you visit. You’ll also need to bring your own towel, or buy one. The caveat is that much of the

ambience is lost when you’re sharing your stunning mountain rotemburo (outdoor bath) with

coachloads of tourists with the same idea.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are seven ryokan (with attached onsen) tucked away in Nyūtō’s hills.

For the complete list, and some onsen eye-candy, see www.nyuto-

onsenkyo.com. If you have the time, you’ll appreciate spending a night in

these divine surrounds; meals are uniformly special, and there’s no better

way to enjoy these fine outdoor baths than beneath moonlight without the

crowds.

o Tsuru-no-yu Onsen

RYOKAN

¥¥

(鶴の湯温泉; %0187-46-2139; www.tsurunoyu.com; 50 Kokuyurin, Sendatsui-zawa; r per person

incl 2 meals ¥8790-16,350, day bathing ¥600; hday bathing 10am-3pm Tue-Sun; pa)

The jewel of Nyūtō, Tsuru-no-yu is the epitome of the Japanese ryokan:

discreet, atmospheric and sumptuous. At every turn there’s another picture-

perfect moment, from the slick suites opening up to the forest floor to the

Edo-era artworks lining the halls. Evenings are distinguished by memorable

meals and guests in yukata (light cotton kimonos) socialising by lantern

light. Reservations are essential.

The newer Yamanoyado building is 1km back down the road towards the

centre of Nyūtō, and very comfortable.

According to lore, the onsen became the official bathhouse of Akita’s

ruling elite after a hunter once saw a crane (tsuru) healing its wounds in the

spring. Its milky-white waters are rich in sulphur, sodium, calcium chloride

and carbonic acid. The mixed rotemburo (outdoor bath) is positively

jubilant, although shyer folk can take refuge in the indoor sex-segregated

baths.

Ganiba Onsen

RYOKAN

¥¥

(蟹場温泉; %0187-46-2021; 4-1 Komagatake; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥9870, day bathing

¥600; hday bathing 9am-4pm; paW)

‘Crab’ Onsen is a delightfully unpretentious affair with a gorgeous mixed-

gender onsen tucked back in the forest and superb Japanese cuisine. The

rooms are large and comfortable, though a little worn. It’s the last stop on the

bus so the day trippers tend to stay away.

Tae-no-yu

RYOKAN

¥¥

(妙乃湯; %0187-46-2740; www.taenoyu.com; 2-1 Komagatake; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥13,070, day bathing ¥800; hday bathing 10am-3pm Wed-Mon; paW) F

This small ryokan is the most modern in Nyūtō Onsen. The stylish lodging

combines urbane sensibility with a forest setting; think a Parisian apartment

with tatami floors. Exquisite locavore meals incorporate wild plants foraged

from the grounds. Bathing options are comprehensive, including private

family onsen, reclining cypress tubs and a heavenly rotemburo. Single

travellers are welcomed.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run to Nyūtō Onsen (¥820, 45 minutes) from Tazawa-ko every hour

from sunrise until sunset, stopping at several onsen en route. Pick up a bus

schedule from the tourist office at Tazawa-ko train station.

Renting a car from Tazawa-ko, or Akita, will give you the freedom to

truly get the most out of a visit to this area.

YAMAGATA PREFECTURE 山形県

The three sacred peaks of Dewa Sanzan – and much of mountainous

Yamagata Prefecture (山形県; Yamagata-ken) – have climbed into the

consciousness of Japanese travellers thanks largely to the poet Matsuo

Bashō. His cherished accounts of the region’s aesthetic beauty and his

championing of the ascetic practices of the yamabushi (mountain priests)

have elevated the prefecture to its current reputation as a place to seek

tranquillity and reflection.

Further inland the remarkable clifftop temple of Risshaku-ji, above the

village of Yamadera, makes a mesmerising day trip from the big cities, while

Zaō Onsen, with its dramatic caldera lake, fine hiking trails and challenging

ski slopes, attracts a more active wanderer. The coastal train from Tsuruoka

to Sakata is utterly charming, as are many train lines weaving through the

interior, but renting a car is the best way to explore the region’s rural areas.

4 Sleeping

Yamagata and Tsuruoka have a decent smattering of business hotels, but

most travellers will head for Zaō Onsen, Ginzan Onsen or Dewa Sanzan,

where both luxurious and rustic mountain retreats await.

MATSUO BASHŌ: CHRONICLER OF THE DEEP NORTH

Born into a samurai family, Matsuo Bashō (1644–94), regarded as Japan’s master of haiku, is

credited with elevating this poetic form’s status from comic relief to Zen-infused

enlightenment. Comparisons have been made between his haiku and Zen kōan (short riddles),

intended to bring about a sudden flash of insight in the listener. Influenced by the natural

philosophy of the Chinese Taoist sage Chuangzi, Bashō’s work contemplated the rhythms and

laws of nature. Later he developed his own poetic principle by drawing on the concept of wabi-

sabi, a kind of spare, lonely beauty.

When he reached his 40s, Bashō abandoned his career in favour of travelling throughout

Japan, seeking to build friendships and commune with nature as he went. He published

evocative accounts of his travels, including The Records of a Weather-Beaten Skeleton and The

Records of a Travel-Worn Satchel, but his collection The Narrow Road to the Deep North,

detailing his journey throughout Tōhoku in 1689, is the most famous. Travellers in Tōhoku will

encounter mentions of Bashō throughout the region.

Yamagata 山形

%023 / POP 251,600

Yamagata (山形) is a pleasant, bustling inaka (rural) capital that makes a

comfortable base for exploring the mountain trails around Yamadera and as a

stopover en route to Zaō Onsen and Ginzan Onsen, tucked away in the

surrounding countryside. There’s little to draw travellers to the town itself,

though the pottery district of Hirashimizu is definitely worth a peek, and

when night falls there is plenty of action to be found in the entertainment

district.

4 Sleeping & Eating

The usual range of business hotels lines the streets near the train station.

Plenty of izakaya can be found in and around the entertainment district.

Guesthouse Mintaro Hut

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(ゲストハウスミンタロハット; %090-2797-1687; www.mintarohut.com; 5-13 Ōte-

machi; s/d ¥4000/7000; piW)

Guesthouses where hosts and guests interact freely with each other are a

rarity in Japan, which makes the childhood home of English-speaking Sato-

san all the more fabulous. The common area is built around a radiant stove,

ensuring a warm and familial atmosphere conducive to chatting with fellow

travellers, and the kitchen is stocked with supplies for self-caterers. Terrific

value.

Sobadokoro Shōjiya

SOBA

¥

(そば処庄司屋; %023-622-1380; 14-28 Saiwai-chō; noodles ¥700-1600; h11-2.30pm & 5-

8.30pm)

Delicious chewy udon and signature soba bowls (hot or cold) are served with

simple elegance at this friendly spot. The accompanying tempura and miso

are respectively light and tangy. It’s a worthwhile 10-minute walk from the

entertainment district.

Kitanosuisan

IZAKAYA

¥¥

(北野水産; %023-624-0880; www.marutomisuisan.jpn.com/kitano-yamagata; 2nd fl, 1-8-8

Kasumi-chō; dishes ¥500-2000; h5pm-midnight)

Come here to sample sake and local Yamagata specialities such as imo nabe

(potato stew) and dongara (cod), as well as a variety of chargrilled seafood.

The menu is on a wooden board and includes pictures. Take the first left

outside the train station’s east exit and look for the blue sign across the 2nd

floor.

8 Information

Tourist Information Centre (山形市観光案内センター; %023-647-2333;

www.yamagatakanko.com; 1st fl, Kajo Central, 1-1-1 Jonan-machi; h8.30am-7pm) In the Kajo Central shopping complex, across the walkway from Yamagata Station.

8 Getting There & Away

The shinkansen between Tokyo and Yamagata (¥12,060, 2¼ hours) runs

hourly, as do kaisoku (rapid trains) on the JR Senzan line between Yamagata

and Yamadera (¥240, 20 minutes).

Alternatively, JR highway buses make an overnight trip between

Yamagata and Tokyo (¥6500, 6½ hours).

Yamadera 山寺

%023

Immortalised by the itinerant haiku master, Matsuo Bashō, in The Narrow

Road to the Deep North (1689), Yamadera (山寺), meaning ‘mountain

temple’, is home to some very special temple buildings. The town was

founded in AD 860 by priests who carried with them the sacred flame from

Enryaku-ji near Kyoto, believing that Yamadera’s rock faces were the

boundaries between this world and the next. Supposedly that flame remains

lit to this day.

The village’s main attraction is the temple of Risshaku-ji (立石寺; %023-

695-2843; www.rissyakuji.jp; adult/child ¥300/100; h8am-5pm). The ‘Temple of Standing Stones’, more commonly known as Yamadera, rests atop a rock-hewn

staircase weathered over the centuries by unrelenting elements. At the foot

of the mountain, guarded by a small lantern, is the sacred flame, Konpon-

chūdō (根本中堂; ¥200), said to have been transported from Kyoto many

centuries ago.

The San-mon (山門) gate marks the start of the climb – some 1000 steps

that take you past carvings so mossy and worn they appear to be part of the

landscape. It’s a steep ascent – a sort of walking meditation – but one that

makes the views from the top, of the surrounding mountains and bucolic

countryside below, that much more spectacular. During the summer months,

the electric whir of cicadas is almost overpowering.

Past the Nio-mon (仁王門), through which only those with pure souls

may enter (be honest now!), the path splits, heading right to the Oku-no-in

(奥の院; Inner Sanctuary) and left to the Godaidō (五大堂). The latter, an

18th-century pavilion perched on the cliffside, has the most arresting views.

For a better shot at a measure of the meditative bliss that so inspired

Bashō, visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It’s possible to visit

Yamadera during winter, though if you arrive just after a snowfall, the paths

(possibly precarious) may not yet be shovelled.

A few simple ryokan can be found near the train station, but most

travellers visit on a day trip from Yamagata or Sendai.

Lots of street stalls sell yummy tamakon – gooey balls of pounded root

vegetable on a stick. These, and a few pleasant noodle shops, are about the

extent of Yamadera’s culinary offerings.

8 Getting There & Away

Hourly kaisoku (rapid trains) travel the JR Senzan line between Yamagata

and Yamadera (¥240, 20 minutes), continuing on to Sendai (¥840, one hour).

The temple is a 20-minute drive from Yamagata. Parking lots (from ¥500

per day) are plentiful.

Zaō Onsen 蔵王温泉

%023 / POP 13,800

Hidden at the end of a winding, misty mountain road, Zaō Onsen (蔵王温

泉) is a charming resort village equally suited to adventure and

convalescence. In warmer months Zaō promises scenic hiking and the

chance to soak in some special sulphur-infused rotemburo (outdoor baths).

In ski season experts and beginners speed and stumble down huge slopes and

dodge the creepy juhyō (ice monsters) – conifers that have been frozen solid

by harsh Siberian winds – a phenomenon unique to the area.

2 Activities

o Zaō Onsen Ski Resort

SNOW SPORTS

(蔵王温泉スキー場; %023-647-2266; www.zao-spa.or.jp; 1-day lift ticket adult/child from

¥5000/2500; hDec-Apr)

Distinguished by its broad and winding runs (some up to 10km long!) and

famous Juhyō Kōgen (樹氷高原; Ice Monster Plateau), which reaches peak

ferocity in frigid February, Zaō has more than 40 ropeways and 14 spidery

courses with multiple offshoots, including a huge breadth of beginner and

intermediate runs. English signage is excellent and full equipment rental is

available.

Nightly ‘ice-monster’ illuminations (January to February) are fun for all

(adult/child ¥2800/1500). Newbies will love that it’s possible to ski from the

mountain’s highest point to the base without accidentally turning down a

black diamond or getting stuck in a field of moguls, while experienced skiers

will appreciate the sheer scope and variety of terrain.

Zaō Sanroku Ropeway

CABLE CAR

(蔵王山麓ロプウェー; %023-694-9518; www.zaoropeway.co.jp; one way/return adult

¥1500/2600, child ¥800/1300; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov)

This succession of cable cars whisks you over the conifers and up Zaō-san

(蔵王山) to within spitting distance of Okama (御釜), a crater lake of

piercing cobalt blue. The walk to the lake passes Buddhist statues and

monuments hidden among the greenery, before the terrain breaks up into a

sunset-coloured crumble of volcanic rock.

You can extend the hike (and save money) by taking one of the other two

shorter ropeways, the Zaō Chūō Ropeway or the Zaō Sky Cable, up or

down.

Zaō Onsen Dai-rotemburo

ONSEN

(蔵王温泉大露天風呂; %023-694-9417; www.jupeer-zao.com/roten; adult/child ¥550/300;

h6am-7pm May-Oct)

Above the village, at the base of the mountain, you’ll find this huge open-air

hot-spring pool. The sulphurstained rocks set the stage for the spectacle of

dozens of complete strangers bathing naked together in joyful unison. If you

arrive for first light in the warmer months, you’ll have the place to yourself.

Shinzaemon-no-Yu

ONSEN

(新左衛門の湯; %023-693-1212; www.zaospa.co.jp; 905 Kawa-mae; adult/child ¥700/400;

h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9.30pm Sat & Sun)

An upmarket bathing option, this modern hot-spring complex has several

spacious pools. The nicest are outside, set in stone with wooden canopies

above.

4 Sleeping

Accommodation abounds, but reservations are essential if you’re visiting

during the ski season or on weekends in summer.

Yoshida-ya

RYOKAN

¥

(吉田屋; %023-694-9223; www.zao-yoshidaya.com; 13 Zaō Onsen; r per person from ¥5800, incl 2

meals ¥8500; pW)

Right in the heart of the modest action, Yoshida-ya has a more international

feel than most due to the presence of young, foreign adventurers and helpful

English-speaking staff. It’s a modern building a 500m uphill walk from the

bus station.

Pension Boku-no-Uchi

PENSION

¥

(ペンションぼくのうち; %023-694-9542; www.bokunouchi.com; 904 Zaō Onsen; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥7700; pW)

This is a skiers’ lodge through and through, from the posters on the wall of

the sociable dining room to the prime location right in front of a convenience

store and the Zaō Chūō Ropeway. Rooms are Japanese-style with communal

facilities, including a 24-hour sulphur bath. Don’t be put off by the

weathered exterior.

Tsuruya Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

(つるやホテル; %023-694-9112; www.tsuruyahotel.co.jp; 710 Zaō Onsen; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥12,750; paW)

Conveniently located opposite the bus terminal, this small hotel’s friendly

staff will do their best to ensure you have a wonderful stay. Handsome

tatami rooms have beautiful views and a variety of indoor and outdoor baths

are on hand to soak your troubles away. Great value for budget ski travellers;

a shuttle to the ski lifts is available.

o Miyamaso Takamiya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(高見屋; %023-694-9333; www.zao.co.jp/takamiya; 54 Zaō Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥39,000; pW)

Takamiya is an atmospheric, upmarket ryokan that has been in business for

nearly three centuries. There are several beautiful indoor and outdoor baths,

while the spacious rooms have tatami sitting areas and fluffy wa-beddo

(thick futons on platforms). Meals are traditional kaiseki ryōri (formal,

multiple-course banquets) featuring top-grade local beef. Staff go above and

beyond to offer exceptional hospitality.

It’s not cheap, but it’s a true destination and worth the splurge, especially

with a loved one.

Zao Shiki no Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(蔵王四季のホテル; %023-693-1211; www.zao-shikinohotel.jp; 1272 Zaō Onsen; per person

incl 2 meals from ¥12,900; pnaW)

Massive Japanese- or Western-style rooms, many with mountain views, are

the selling point of this fastidious ski hotel, with a wonderful outdoor onsen

and lively communal dining area. It’s very popular with Japanese

weekenders, who come for the value, trail access and comfort.

5 Eating & Drinking

In winter the restaurants here often turn into unofficial drinking

establishments, but there are are only a handful of bars and no real nightlife.

Robata

BARBECUE

¥¥

(ろばた; %023-694-9565; 42-7 Kawara; courses from ¥1250; h11am-11pm Fri-Wed)

The best Mongolian barbecue or jingisukan restaurant in Zaō (there are

many) is a sharp operation where diners do the grunt work on plates of raw

lamb and veggies. It’s good smoky fun, well supported by a drinks menu that

includes fruit sake and, everyone’s favourite, yoghurt liqueur.

Oto-chaya

BAR

(音茶屋; %023-694-9081; 935-24 Zaō Onsen; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue, to midnight in winter; W)

Your one-stop shop for convivial pre- and post-ski rendezvous, Oto-chaya

begins with coffee in the mornings and powers right through to sake and

beer, with occasional live tunes, in the evenings. Hearty meals (from ¥850)

are available, too. Look for the wooden sign with the teapot on the main road

beyond the Zaō Chūō Ropeway.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (蔵王温泉観光協会; %023-694-9328; www.zao-

spa.or.jp; 708-1 Zaō Onsen; h8.30am-5pm) Tucked just inside the bus station; lots of

English-language info is available here.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run hourly between the bus terminal in Zaō Onsen and JR Yamagata

Station (¥1000, 40 minutes).

During the ski season, private companies run overnight shuttles between

Tokyo and Zaō. Prices can be as low as ¥7000 return – enquire at travel

agencies in Tokyo.

Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉

%0237 / POP 16,000

With century-old inns forming mirror images on either side of the peaceful

Obana-zawa, Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉), an out-of-the-way collection of

ryokan in the classic Taishō-era style, was once the setting for Oshin, an

enormously popular historical drama from the 1980s. Most romantic when

draped in snow, Ginzan is a pleasant day trip from Yamagata, but overnight

visitors can experience the real beauty of the village once the lamps are lit.

Several ryokan open their baths for higaeri (day) bathing.

4 Sleeping

Ginzan Onsen’s single heritage-listed street is filled with traditional Japanese

ryokan. Reserve in advance, if you can.

Ginzan-so

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(銀山荘; %0237-28-2322; www.ginzanso.jp; r standard/deluxe incl 2 meals per person from

¥16,800/19,800; pW)

A picture of the artist Kenji Uchino greets guests to Ginzan-so, an

enchanting mountain hotel with spacious, traditional accommodation where

soft interiors are accentuated by beautiful paper lamps. Deluxe rooms have

in-room spas overlooking the trees. It’s a five-minute walk from the main

riverside village.

Notoya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(能登屋旅館; %0237-28-2327; www.notoyaryokan.com; 446 Ginzan Shin-hata, Obanazawa; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥18,000; p)

Right in the heart of the picturesque village, Notoya is a classical ryokan

originally constructed in 1922, with three storeys complete with balconies,

elaborate woodwork and a curious garret tower. Make sure you get a room in

the main building overlooking the river.

5 Eating & Drinking

All ryokan offer at least half-board. There are a few restaurants serving local

dishes for day trippers.

Coté de la Poste

CAFE

(クリエ; %0237-28-2038; 410 Shinbata; h9am-6pm; W)

Tucked away on a corner near the bend in the river (next to the orange post

box, hence the name), this petite coffee shop is the perfect spot for a post-

soak tipple. Drinks are pricey, but the ambience is unbeatable. Head up the

ladder-like stairs for river views and soft jazz.

8 Information

The small, friendly tourist office (h9.30am-4pm Sat & Sun, hours vary Mon-Fri) has

handy English-language maps, information on day-bathing options and bus

timetables. It’s on your left as you cross the bridge into the village.

8 Getting There & Away

From Yamagata take the shinkansen (¥1420, 30 minutes) or the JR Yamagata

line towards Shinjo (¥670, 50 minutes), alighting in Ōishida, then transfer to

one of up to nine daily buses leaving for Ginzan Onsen (¥710, 40 minutes)

from the west-exit bus pool.

Tsuruoka 鶴岡

%0235 / POP 129,600

Established by the Sakai clan, one of feudal Yamagata’s most important

families, Tsuruoka (鶴岡) is the second-largest city in the prefecture. This

compact city on the Shōnai Plain is the base for visits to the mountains of

Dewa Sanzan.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Route Inn Tsuruoka Ekimae

HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテルルートイン鶴岡駅前; %0235-28-2055; www.route-inn.co.jp; 1-17 Suehiro-machi;

s/d ¥7400/11,300; pnaW)

The restaurant, lounge and lobby here befit a more expensive hotel, and the

staff are invariably friendly and professional, though rooms are a little

underwhelming in both size and style. Request a room on a high floor for

views over Tsuruoka, the Shōnai Plain and enveloping mountains.

Tokyo Daiichi Hotel Tsuruoka

HOTEL

¥¥

(東京第一ホテル鶴岡; %0235-24-7611; www.tdh-tsuruoka.co.jp; 2-10 Nishiki-machi; s/d

from ¥6600/13,000; pnaW)

This is a large, fairly impersonal hotel with comparatively spacious, stylish

rooms and a rooftop sauna and rotemburo (outdoor bath), perfect for a post-

hike soak. It’s the huge yellow-brick building connected to the S-Mall

shopping centre, a few minutes’ walk from the train station (turn right as you

exit the station).

5 Eating & Drinking

Downtown is pretty sleepy, though you’ll find a handful of local restaurants

scattered around. If you need a bite to eat or snacks for the road, try the S-

Mall shopping centre, a few minutes on foot from the train station.

Ramen Kyuchan

RAMEN

¥

(らーめんしょっぷ久ちゃん; %0235-23-6319; 6-48 Suehiro-machi; bowls from ¥650;

h11.30am-2pm & 5pm-late)

Ramen shops abound throughout Tsuruoka; this cheap and cheerful place is

popular with locals for its flavoursome broth and late-night hours.

High Noon Diner

BAR

(ハイヌーン ダイナー; %0235-25-0081; 15-18 Suehiro-machi; h7pm-late Wed-Mon)

Two blocks left from the train station you’ll spot the distinctive neon pink

flamingo in the window of this cosy retro bar with Guinness on tap. Popular

with foreign visitors and locals alike.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (鶴岡市観光案内所; %0235-25-7678;

www.tsuruokakanko.com; h9.30am-5.30pm) Straight ahead as you exit the train

station, with information, bus timetables and English maps for Dewa Sanzan

and other attractions.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Buses leave from in front of Tsuruoka Station and from the bus depot at S-

Mall for Haguro-san (¥820, 40 minutes). There are a few buses each day

between Tsuruoka and Yamagata (¥2470, 1¾ hours), though services are

often cut back during winter. See www.shonaikotsu.jp.

TRAIN

A few daily tokkyū (limited express trains) run on the JR Uetsu main line

between Tsuruoka and Akita (¥3610, 1¾ hours) and between Tsuruoka and

Niigata (¥3930, 1¾ hours).

Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山

%0235 / POP 21,600

The mountains of Haguro-san (Birth), Gas-san (Death) and Yudono-san

(Rebirth) represent both the cycle of life and the stages you may go through

when tackling the three famous peaks of Dewa Sanzan (出羽三山). The folk

religion Shugendō’s white-clad devotees worship a hybrid of Buddhism and

Shintō and can be seen trekking the well-worn trail with wooden staffs,

sandals and conical straw hats, alongside fleece-clad hikers equipped with

poles, waterproof boots and bandanas.

Yamabushi (mountain priests) go that extra step in their unmistakable

conch shells, chequered jackets and voluminous white pantaloons. Come

winter you can join them beneath an icy waterfall to discipline both body

and spirit, or just watch them pass from the comfort of your temple lodging

at either end of the journey.

1 Sights & Activities

If you want to tackle all three mountains – possible from June through

September – you need two full days, though three are advised and

accommodation should be booked in advance. Tradition dictates that you

start hiking at Haguro-san and finish at Yudonosan. You can do the

pilgrimage in the opposite direction, though the ascent from Yudono-san to

Gas-san is painfully steep. If you don’t have that much time to spare, the

hike up Haguro-san’s 2446 stone steps (one hour) is a very rewarding

alternative.

o Haguro-san

MOUNTAIN

(羽黒山)

The 2446 stone steps through ancient cedars to Haguro-san’s summit (419m)

have been smoothed by centuries of pilgrims. The climb, taking up to two

hours, passes Gojū-no-tō (五重塔), a beautiful wooden five-storey pagoda

dating from the 14th century. At the top marvel at the San-shin Gōsaiden

(三神合祭殿), a vivid red hall that enshrines the deities of Dewa Sanzan’s

three mountains.

If you’re completing the circuit, you must catch the bus from the parking

lot beyond the shrine, bound for Hachigōme (八合目; eighth station), where

the trail to the top of Gas-san picks up again. The last bus leaves just after

2pm. Most of the old 20km pilgrim trail along the ridge line to Gas-san

became overgrown after a road was built in the 1960s.

o Gas-san

MOUNTAIN

(月山)

Accessible from July to September, Gas-san (1984m) is the highest of Dewa

Sanzan’s sacred mountains. From Hachigōme (八合目; eighth station) the

route passes through an alpine plateau to Kyūgōme (九合目; ninth station)

in 1¾ hours, then grinds uphill for another 1¼ hours to the top.

At the peak of Gas-san is the deeply spiritual Shintō shrine of Gassan-

jinja (月山神社; ¥500; h5am-5pm Jul–mid-Sep). Before entering you must be

‘purifed’: bow to receive the priest’s benediction, then brush yourself head to

toe with the slip of paper, placing it afterwards in the fountain. Beyond the

gate, photography is prohibited.

From here the pilgrimage route presses on towards the steep descent to

Yudono-san. This takes another three hours or so, and you’ll have to

carefully descend rusty ladders chained to the cliffs and pick your way down

through a slippery stream bed at the end of the trail.

o Yudono-san

MOUNTAIN

(湯殿山)

Accessible from May to October, Yudono-san (1504m) is the spiritual

culmination of the Dewa Sanzan trek. Coming from Gas-san it’s a short walk

from the stream bed at the end of the descent to Yudono-san-jinja.

To finish the pilgrimage, it’s a mere 10-minute hike down the mountain to

the trailhead at Yudono-san Sanrōsho (湯殿山参籠所), marked by a torii

and adjacent to the Sennin-zawa (仙人沢) bus stop.

Yudono-san-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(湯殿山神社; ¥500; h9am-5pm, closed Nov-Apr)

Beyond the giant red torii of this shrine, ancient tradition (and stern-faced

priests) forbids disclosure of what you witness. It’s forbidden to photograph

and taboo to discuss this sacred natural shrine, so you’ll just have to find out

for yourself. It’s quite remarkable. Strict rituals prevail: remove your shoes,

bow your head before the priest for purification rites then follow the other

pilgrims.

A bus stop is a mere 200m from the shrine, though buses run only on

weekends.

Yambushido

MEDITATION

(大聖坊; www.yamabushido.jp; 99 Haguro-machi; 2-night training program ¥185,000)

The new generation of yamabushi have opened up their shukubō (temple

lodging) to everyday folk in need of reconnecting with nature. The masters

dressed in white deliver three-day, two-night training programs twice

monthly for those wanting to take their journey to the next level.

It’s a tremendous opportunity to become versed in the austere spiritual

practices of Shugendō devotees, revered across Japan for their mythical

powers.

The sleeping quarters are more than pleasant, and the vegetarian meals

come highly recommended. Guests can expect morning worship, educational

nature walks, Shugendō incantations and even exorcism.

z Festivals & Events

The peak of Haguro-san is the site of some lively festivals.

Shōrei-sai

CULTURAL

(松例祭; h31 Dec)

On New Year’s Eve, yamabushi novices perform similar rituals to those of

the mountain priests at the Hassaku Matsuri, competing with each other after

completing a 100-day-long period of cleansing and self-deprivation.

Hassaku Matsuri

CULTURAL

(八朔祭; h31 Aug)

Yamabushi (mountain priests) perform ancient fire rites at the top of Haguro-

san throughout the night to pray for a bountiful harvest.

4 Sleeping

Reservations are essential if you plan to stay on the mountains. You can

choose to stay at either end of the pilgrimage path, in Haguro-san or

Yudono-san, and a few places in between. Otherwise you can base yourself

in Tsuruoka.

o Saikan

LODGE

¥¥

(斎館; %0235-62-2357; 7 Tōge, Haguro-machi; r per person incl 2 meals ¥7350; p) F

Elegantly perched atop Haguro-san, and accessed by an imposing gate,

Saikan is a destination for reflective, quiet travel. The main building is

sparingly furnished, but rooms are spotless and comfortable, and each is a

few steps from valley views. Meals (lunch also available) are shōjin ryōri

(Buddhist cuisine) made with foraged mushrooms and mountain vegetables.

A very special place.

It’s the last left before the gate that signals the end of the stairs.

Odawara Hut

HUT

¥¥

(御田原小屋; %090-2367-9037; per person incl 2 meals ¥8640; hJul-Sep)

At the eighth station on Gas-san, this mountain hut is a convenient place to

break up the long three-mountain hike. Futons are laid out in one big

communal room (sans shower), the meals are filling and the close quarters

conducive for swapping stories. Catch the sunrise and you’ll be on your way

to the peak before the tour buses arrive.

Yudono-san Sanrōsho

LODGE

¥¥

(湯殿山参籠所; %0235-54-6131; www.yudonosan-stay.com; 7 Rokujuri-yama, Tamugimata; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8790; hclosed early Nov-late Apr; p)

This airy mountain lodge at the bottom of Yudono-san has a hot bath and is

full of jovial pilgrims celebrating the completion of their multiday circuit.

Hearty meals, beer and sake are available and generally gratefully received.

Tasty lunch sets (from ¥1640) are served here as well, even for non-lodgers.

Gas-san Shizu Onsen Ochimizu no Yu Tsutaya

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(月山志津温泉変若水の湯つたや; %0237-74-4119; www.gassan-tsutaya.co.jp; r per

person incl 2 meals from ¥14,000; n)

Perform some toji (restorative bathing) at this mellow onsen hotel in Shizu

village, then walk the attractive streets in between feasting on mountain

plants and river fish. The tatami rooms include a tea-drinking area. Day

bathing is also available (¥800, 11.30am to 4pm).

6 Drinking & Nightlife

There are some delightful, welcoming noodle stands at the entrance to

Haguro-san, many serving fresh mountain-vegetable dishes. Each of the

mountains has some dining options at the start and end of the trails, but

trekkers should stock up on supplies in Tsuruoka.

Ni-no-saka-chaya

TEAHOUSE

(二の坂茶屋; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov)

Halfway up the stone stairs of Haguro-san, as your calves are burning and

your heart is pumping madly, this charming teahouse appears like a mirage.

Here you’ll be greeted by marvellous views and smiling women selling

refreshments to fuel the next stage of your hike.

8 Information

Stock up on maps at the tourist information center in Tsuruoka.

8 Getting There & Away

During the summer hiking months, there are up to 10 buses daily (the

earliest leaving at 6am) from Tsuruoka to Haguro-san’s Zuishin-mon stop

(¥820, 40 minutes) at the base of the hike, most of which then continue to

Haguro-sanchō (Haguro summit; ¥1180, 55 minutes). Outside the high

season, the schedule is reduced.

From early July to late August, and then on weekends and holidays until

late September, there are up to four daily buses from Haguro-sanchō to Gas-

san as far as Hachigōme (¥1560, one hour).

On weekends three buses per day travel between the Yudono-san

Sanrōsho trailhead and Haguro-san (¥1500, one hour). There is no public

transport to Yudono-san on weekdays.

Sakata 酒田

%0234 / POP 106,250

Sakata (酒田) flourished in the Edo period when it was a wealthy port

cultivated by nobles and merchants. Today, while first glances might allude

to a sad story of a fading rural town with an ageing population, closer

inspection reveals a wealth of cultural and historical attractions waiting to be

uncovered. There’s a surprising amount of English signage here and plenty

to see and do if you have a few hours and sunny weather. It’s also close

enough to Dewa Sanzan to make a worthy alternative base to Tsuruoka.

1 Sights

Historical Abumiya Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

(旧鐙屋; %0234-22-5001; www.abumiya.matizukuri.info; 14-20 1-chōme; adult/child ¥320/210; h9am-4.30pm)

Opposite the city hall, this private home once belonged to a wealthy

shipping agent. With a beautiful garden and a fascinating variety of room

divisions using shōji screens, it’s a wonderful place to contemplate the

Japanese aesthetic of bringing the outside in.

Hiyoriyama Park

PARK

(日和山公園)

This sprawling hilly park has views of the ocean and is a wonderful spot for

a stroll or a picnic, especially at sunset. In April, 400 cherry trees burst into

bloom and lanterns are lit all night in a spectacular display.

4 Sleeping

A few basic business hotels are found near the train station.

Wakaba Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

(若葉 旅館; %0967-44-0500; 2-3-9 Honcho; per person incl 2 meals from ¥7900)

Friendly, English-speaking owners and a fine location within walking

distance of shops and restaurants make Wakaba the pick of the town’s

ryokan. Rooms are bright and clean.

5 Eating & Drinking

Sakata Kaisen Ichiba

SEAFOOD

¥

(酒田海鮮市場; %0234-23-5522; 5-10 2-chōme; sushi box from ¥1000; h7am-7pm)

A must-visit for seafood lovers. You can eat at a variety of places at this

indoor seafood market or grab some mouth-watering sushi and picnic

goodies.

Kachofugetsu

JAPANESE

¥

(花鳥風月; %0234-24-8005; www.kachou.jp; 1-3-19 Higashi-cho; dishes from ¥630; h11am-

8.30pm)

To the east of the centre, in a residential neighbourhood, this popular ramen

joint does a roaring trade in steaming bowls of homemade noodles in a rich,

umami broth. Place your order via the machine in the entryway and pass the

resulting ticket to the waitstaff before finding a seat.

Of all the ramen restaurants in town (and there are many – pick up a map

at the tourist office), this is one of the only ones that opens for dinner.

Kumura no Sakaba

IZAKAYA

¥

(久村の酒場; %0234-24-1935; 1-41 Kotobukicho; dishes from ¥700; h5-10pm Mon-Sat)

While many believe Sakata is an underrated town, Kumura no Sakaba is

definitely a much underrated izakaya. The atmosphere is propelled by

buoyant, local Japanese sharing simple seafood, chicken and vegetable

dishes, and the beer flows freely on most tables.

Kerun

COCKTAIL BAR

(ケルン; %0234-23-0128; 2-4-20 Naka-machi; h11.30am-2.30pm & 7-10pm)

In business for decades, Kerun is run by an octogenarian Japanese man who

whisks up frothy whisky sours from a well-stocked bar that’s surrounded by

mirrors and booth seating. You can also get lovely filter coffee and iced

chocolates during the day.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (酒田駅観光案内所; %0234-24-2454; www.sakata-

kankou.com; h9am-5pm) Within Sakata Station. Staff don’t speak much English,

but they rent bikes for free and have an excellent English-language walking

map.

8 Getting There & Away

Sakata is an easy day trip from Tsuruoka on the local fūtsū train (¥500, 35

minutes), or a pleasant stop en route to Akita (limited express ¥1940, two

hours) on the scenic, coast-hugging Uetsu main line.

Several daily buses go to Yamagata (¥2730, 2¾ hours) via Tsuruoka

(¥820, 50 minutes).

NIIGATA PREFECTURE 新潟県

Skirting the west coast of Tōhoku, Niigata Prefecture (新潟県; Niigata-ken)

is known for its snow-covered mountains, rocky coastal stretches and

established onsen villages. In summer thousands descend on the small

mountain hamlet of Naeba for the famed Fuji Rock Festival, while in winter

city slickers carve up the slopes around Naeba and nearby Echigo-Yuzawa

Onsen. The prefecture’s sprawling capital city, Niigata, is an industrial and

transport hub, with excellent transport connections, and is the gateway to

quiet Sado-ga-shima, a working island with an interesting history and a

rugged natural beauty.

4 Sleeping

As a major metropolitan centre, Niigata has the usual array of business

hotels, as well as a handful of more atmospheric options. The mountain

towns of Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen and Naeba are mainly populated by

workhorse ski hotels, though Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen has some decent

ryokan, which serve as good bases for ski trips.

Niigata 新潟

%025 / POP 810,157

Niigata (新潟) is the prefectural capital, the largest city on Honshū’s Sea of

Japan coast and a welcoming place to spend a night or so en route to the ski

fields or Sado-gashima. Highlights include a lively restaurant district serving

the region’s famed rice and sake, an attractive city park and the handsome

Shinano-gawa running through the centre. Head up to the impressive Nippō

observation deck to get a sense of where you are in the world.

1 Sights

Niigata City Art Museum

MUSEUM

(新潟市美術館; %025-223-1622; www.ncam.jp; 5191-9 Nishiohata-cho; adult/child ¥200/100;

h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun)

This petite, elegant museum stages interesting temporary exhibitions by

Japanese artists and also has a well-curated permanent collection of local

and international works. The on-site organic cafe makes a great lunch stop.

Saito Family Summer Villa

HISTORIC BUILDING

(旧齋藤家別邸, Kyū Saito-ke Bettei; %025-210-8350; www.saitouke.jp; 576 Nishi Ohata-chō;

adult/child ¥300/100; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; g3, 13 to Higashi-ōhata

Niban-chō)

Wander the polished wooden floors of this beautifully preserved Japanese

summer house built in 1918, a luscious example of turn-of-the-century

Japanese architecture and design. The grounds are home to a beautiful

garden with huge Edo-period pines sheltering over 100 Japanese maples.

Nippō Media Ship Sora-no-hiroba

VIEWPOINT

(新潟日報メディアシップそらの広場; %025-385-7500; 1-1-3 Chome, Bandai; h8am-

11pm) F

Visit the observation deck on the 20th floor of this skyscraper for amazing

360-degree views over the Sea of Japan, Niigata city and the distant

mountains. The elevator is to your right from the main entrance.

4 Sleeping

Niigata has the usual range of business hotels near the train station as well as

by the Sadoga-shima ferry terminal. North of the river you’ll find a few

more decent hotels (and love hotels) in the entertainment district.

Book Inn

HOSTEL

¥

(ゲストハウス ブックイン; %025-290-7322; www.bookinn-niigata.com; 3-1-21 Benten,

Chūō-ku; dm ¥2500-5000; aW)

Over 4000 books, including 1000 English-language titles, line the walls of

this quirky hostel a five-minute walk from the train station. Guests sleep in

capsule-like bunks in one large room. Spotless facilities, including a

kitchenette with free tea and coffee, and friendly, Englishspeaking staff

complete the story.

ANA Crowne Plaza Niigata

HOTEL

¥¥

(ANAクラウンプラザホテル新潟; %025-245-3333; www.crowneplaza.com/niigata; 5-11-

20 Bandai; s/d from ¥7695/10,165; pnaW)

A 10-minute walk from the station and easy access to the river make the

Crowne Plaza a convenient choice for affordable luxury. The Japanese suites

are the best value if you have a friend or two, though guestrooms come in a

variety of shapes and sizes.

Hotel Nikkō Niigata

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(ホテル日光新潟; %025-240-1888; www.okura-nikko.com; 5-1 Bandai-jima; s/d from

¥7800/16,000; pnaW)

Starting on the 23rd floor of the tallest building in the prefecture, the Nikkō

looms over the mouth of Shinanogawa and the Sado-ga-shima ferry

terminal. Rooms are pushing five-star, with ample space, pleasing colour

schemes and great views, while the breakfast buffet spans Japanese and

Western tastes. It’s perfectly located for an early-morning ferry departure to

Sado.

5 Eating & Drinking

Pia Bandai

MARKET

¥¥

(ピアBandai, Pier Bandai; %025-249-2560; 2-10 Bandai-shima, Chūō-ku; meals from ¥1000;

h9am-9pm)

Conveniently located on the way to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, this

sprawling complex includes markets and eateries – so you can gawk at the

bounty of Niigata’s coast and sample it, too. If you’re in Niigata with time to

eat, a visit here is a must. You’ll be spoiled for choice: from conveyer-belt

sushi to Italian-style calzone to superb coffee.

Ponshukan

DISTILLERY

(ぽんしゅ館; %025-240-7090; http://ponshukanniigata.com; 3rd fl, 1-96-47 Hanazono; h11am-10pm)

This charming sake shop on the concourse just outside the train station sells

hundreds of different types in the kikizake style, where you can purchase five

small samples for ¥500. Gourmet nibbles are also served to line the stomach.

Don’t miss your train!

The tasting area is partitioned off inside the store, in the far corner – look

out for the white noren.

Craft Beer Kan

CRAFT BEER

(クラフトビールかん; %025-278-7622; hnoon-11pm)

By the south exit of Niigata Station is this fun little stand-up beer bar at the

forefront of the city’s craft-beer renaissance. Forty-odd beers are on tap; buy

tickets (500mL glass from ¥400) from a machine. The owners can point you

towards their second branch in the entertainment district.

NIIGATA SAKE

Niigata Prefecture is one of Japan’s top sake-producing regions, known in particular for a crisp,

dry style called tanrei karakuchi. The long, cold winters produce plenty of fresh mountain

snowmelt for the valleys below, which translates into delicious rice and then delicious sake.

Tipplers should be sure to treat themselves while passing through. In March a mammoth

bacchanal in Niigata city, called Sake-no-jin (酒の陣; www.sakenojin.jp; hMar), highlights more than 90 varieties of sake from around the prefecture.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (新潟駅万代口観光案内センター; %025-241-

7914; www.nvcb.or.jp; h9am-7pm) Lovely, helpful staff dispense English maps and

information to the left of Niigata Station’s Bandai exit. The website is good,

too.

Niigata University Medical & Dental Hospital (新潟大学医歯学総合病

院; %025-227-2460, after hours 025-227-2479; www.nuh.niigata-u.ac.jp; 1-757 Asahimachi-dōri, Ichiban-chō; houtpatient service 8.30-11am Mon-Fri)

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Niigata Airport (KIJ), 13km north of the city centre, has domestic flights to

Sapporo, Nagoya, Osaka, Fukuoka and Okinawa and international flights to

Khabarovsk, Vladivostok, Seoul, Shanghai, Harbin and Guam.

Buses to the airport run from stop 5 outside Niigata Station’s south exit

roughly every half-hour from 6.30am to 6.40pm (¥410, 25 minutes); a taxi

should cost about ¥3000.

BOAT

From the port of Niigata-kō, Shin-Nihonkai (新日本海; %025-273-2171;

www.snf.jp) ferries run daily (except Monday) to Otaru on Hokkaidō (from

¥6480, 18 hours). To get to Niigata-kō take bus line 10 at the Bandai exit bus

pool in front of Niigata Station (¥210, 15 minutes).

Sado Kisen (佐渡汽船; %025-245-2311; www.sadokisen.co.jp) runs frequent car

ferries (from ¥2170/10,910 per adult/car, three hours) and hydrofoils (¥6390,

one hour) to Ryōtsu on Sado-ga-shima. Buses to the ferry terminal (¥210, 15

minutes) leave from stop 5 at the Bandai exit bus pool 45 minutes before

sailing. A taxi should cost about ¥1000; alternatively, you can walk there in

about 40 minutes.

Daily car ferries also run from the port of Naoetsu-kō, about 90km

southwest of Niigata, to Ogi on Sado-ga-shima (from ¥3780/13,340 per

adult/car, 2½ hours).

BUS

Highway buses depart from the Bandai City Bus Terminal (万代シテイバ

スセンター; 1-6-1 Bandai, Chuo-ku), a big yellow building 1km northwest of the

train station, and connect Niigata to major cities throughout Honshū.

TRAIN

Shinkansen on the Jōetsu line run approximately twice an hour between

Niigata and Tokyo (¥10,050, 2¼ hours), via Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen (¥4860,

45 minutes).

There are a few tokkyū (limited express trains) each day on the JR Uetsu

line between Niigata and Tsuruoka (¥3930, 1¾ hours) and between Niigata

and Akita (¥6690, 3½ hours).

To access the port of Naoetsu-kō, from where you can catch a ferry or

hydrofoil to the town of Ogi on Sado-ga-shima, there are a few tokkyū each

day on the JR Shinetsu line between Niigata and Naoetsu (¥4100, 1¾ hours).

From Naoetsu Station, it’s a 10-minute bus ride (¥210) or about ¥1000 for a

taxi to the port.

Sado-ga-shima 佐渡島

%0259 / POP 57,255

Dramatic cliffs plunging into deep blue ocean, lush, dense forests marked by

winding roads, and sleepy fishing villages backed by golden rice paddies are

hallmarks of S-shaped Sado-ga-shima (佐渡島), a remote, sparsely

populated island with a unique cultural heritage and dramatic natural

landscape. Its history as a penal colony, gold mine, religious retreat and a

bastion of cultural preservation gives Sado a special place in the Japanese

psyche, but foreign travellers are mostly yet to discover its charms.

Crowds peak during the third week in August for the Earth Celebration,

headlined by the world-famous Kodō Drummers. Outside of the summer

holiday season, it’s blissfully quiet.

History

Sado has always been something of a far-flung destination, just not always a

voluntary one. During the feudal era, the island was a notorious penal colony

where out-of-favour intellectuals were forever banished. The illustrious list

of former prisoners includes Emperor Juntoku, nō (stylised dance-drama)

master Ze-Ami and Nichiren, the founder of one of Japan’s most influential

Buddhist sects. When gold was discovered near the village of Aikawa in

1601, there was a sudden influx of miners, who were often vagrants press-

ganged from the mainland and forced to work under slave-like conditions.

Sado-ga-shima

1 Sights

1 Kokubun-ji

C4

2 Konpon-ji

C4

3 Mano Go-ryō

B4

4 Myōsen-ji

C4

5 Ogi Folk Museum

B5

6 Sado Hanga-mura Museum

B3

7 Sado Museum of History & Tradition

B4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

8 Sado Island Taiko Centre

B5

4 Sleeping

9 Hana-no-ki

B5

10 Itōya Ryokan

B4

11 Sado Belle Mer Youth Hostel

B3

12 So-bama Campground

B5

13 Sotokaifu Youth Hostel

C1

14 Tōkaen

C3

15 Urashima

B4

5 Eating

16 Kimpuku

B3

17 Shichiemon

B5

18 Shimafumi

B4

19 Uohara

B5

6 Drinking & Nightlife

20 Kyōmachi Chaya

B3

1 Sights

Ryōtsu (両津) serves as the main ferry access point to Sado-ga-shima, but

there is little reason to stick around this fairly gritty port town. A short drive

inland, the land gives way to rice fields, rustic farmhouses and ancient

temples. The rustic wooden temple, Konpon-ji ( MAP ; 根本寺; %0259-22-3751;

www.sado-konponji.com; 1837 Niibo Ōno; adult/child ¥300/150; h8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar), with its thatched roof and pleasant gardens, is where the Buddhist

monk Nichiren was first brought when exiled to Sado in 1271. Any bus on

the Minami line from Ryōtsu can drop you off at the Konpon-ji-mae bus

stop.

Villages on the west coast with sights include Mano (真野), which is a

fantastic place for a ramble, and Aikawa (相川), an Edo-era gold-mining

boom town and now a sleepy fishing village overlooking the Sea of Japan. A

worthwhile sight here is Sado Hanga-mura Museum ( MAP ; 佐渡版画村美

術館; %0259-74-3931; 38-2 Aikawa Komeyamachi; adult/child ¥400/200; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov), a

rambling gallery where local artists display vibrant hanga (woodblock

prints) depicting country life in Sado.

North of Aikawa, Sado’s Sotokaifu (外海府) coast is a dramatic

landscape of sheer cliffs dropping into deep blue waters. Roads are narrow

and windy; think harrowing/exhilarating coastal drives. Infrequent buses do

pass by here, but you’ll really want your own wheels.

Ogi (小木) is a small village on the southwestern tip of the island and one

of the most popular places to visit. The drive along the beautiful rocky

shoreline is cathartic if you crave remote destinations, and its splendid

isolation is evident in the cultural practices that have changed little in 400

years.

Visit the Ogi Folk Museum ( MAP ; 小木民俗博物館; Ogi Minzoku

Hakubutsukan; %0259-86-2604; 270-2 Shukunegi; adult/child ¥500/200; h8.30am-5pm), in a

former 1920s schoolhouse, saved from demolition, to see cultural artefacts

from Sado.

About 3km west the tiny hamlet of Shukunegi (宿根木) is a rarer jewel –

the tiny, gated, traditional fishing village feels like a museum, with its

weathered wooden merchant houses, narrow alleyways and stone staircases

snaking up the hillside.

2 Activities

Sado Island Taiko Centre

MUSIC

( MAP ; 佐渡太鼓体験交流館; Sado Taiko Taiken Tatakō-kan; %0259-86-2320;

www.sadotaiken.jp; 150-3 Ogi-kanetashinden; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Come to this beautiful hall perched on a hill overlooking the ocean to have a

drumming lesson with members of the elite Kodō Drummers. Pop in to have

a look any time, but lessons must be booked in advance – generally ¥2000

per person, minimum five people.

z Festivals

Earth Celebration

CULTURAL

(アース・セレブレーション; www.earthcelebration.jp; hmid-Aug)

One of Sado’s biggest drawcards is this three-day music, dance and arts

festival, held during the third week in August. The event features okesa (folk

dances), onidaiko (demon drum dances) and tsuburosashi (a phallic dance

with two goddesses). The focal point, however, is the performance of the

Kodō Drummers, considered one of the most elite drumming groups in the

world.

The Kodō Drummers live in a small village north of Ogi but spend much

of the year on tour around the globe. Members are required to adhere to

strict physical, mental and spiritual training regimens.

Main concerts and workshops take place in and around the village of Ogi,

but optional activities and tours are scheduled all over the island.

If you’re interested in attending the festival, you will need to buy tickets

and arrange accommodation well in advance.

GENBI SHINKANSEN

Art and/or train lovers should check out the Genbi Shinkansen ‘art train’, which operates

between Niigata and Echigo-Yuzawa (¥4860, 50 minutes) six times daily. See

www.jreast.co.jp/genbi.

4 Sleeping

Sado has a number of excellent ryokan, some smaller minshuku and a couple

of hostels, but almost no typical business hotels. The best places to stay are

in or around Ogi and Mano; for truly remote you can stay on the Sotokaifu

coast or in central Sado.

So-bama Campground

CAMPGROUND

¥

( MAP ; 素浜キャンプ場; %0259-86-3200; site per person/rental tent from ¥300/2500; hMay-

Oct; p)

Right across the road from a tempting stretch of sand and only 6km from

Ogi, this attractive campground reaches peak popularity during Earth

Celebration, when shuttle buses between it and festival events run several

times a day. You’ll need a car to access it easily.

Sado Belle Mer Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 佐渡ベルメールユースホステル; %0259-75-2011; http://sado.bellemer.jp; 369-

4 Himezu; dm incl 2 meals ¥6500; pnW)

Fishing, hiking and hanging out by the windswept sea are the activities of

choice at this established hostel, which immerses guests in Japanese village

life. The owners know at least one fabulous secret beach. Rooms are basic

dorms and almost all have sea views. Meals are available. It’s near the

Minami-Himezu bus stop.

Sotokaifu Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 外海府ユースホステル; %0259-78-2911; www.sotokaifu.jp; 131 Iwayaguchi; dm incl 2 meals ¥6380; pn)

Tucked away in a tiny fishing hamlet, this cosy hostel will appeal to those

looking for the quiet life. It’s in a traditional Sado house, complete with

central hearth, refitted with shared and private rooms. Filling meals include

fresh seafood. The hostel is right in front of the Iwayaguchi (岩谷口) bus

stop. Think remote.

o Hana-no-ki

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 花の木; %0259-86-2331; www.sado-hananoki.com; 78-1 Shukunegi; s/d incl breakfast

¥6500/11,000; pnW)

If you make it this far, you’ll need to find somewhere worthwhile to rest

your weary head. Luckily this 150-year-old former farmhouse has been

relocated to the rice paddies of Shukunegi to serve exactly that purpose.

Accommodation is in Japanese-style rooms in the main building, or detached

cottages in the garden. Call ahead for pick-up from Ogi.

o Urashima

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 浦島; %0259-57-3751; www.urasima.com; 978-3 Kubota; r per person from ¥8000, incl 2

meals from ¥13,000; paW)

Sleek, modern architecture meets industrial chic at Urashima, housed in a

former fishmongers redesigned by two prominent Japanese architects. The

result is a total destination hotel, combining traditional Japanese elements

with a distinct European sensibility. Superb meals and exceptional

hospitality mean this is the best place on the island to stay for a few days.

It’s about 400m west of Sawata, on the bus route to Mano.

Tōkaen

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP ; 桃華園; %0259-63-2221; www.on.rim.or.jp/~toukaen; 1636-1 Kanai-Shinbo; r per person

¥4500, incl 2 meals from ¥8800; pW) F

On the central plains outside Ryōtsu is this isolated minshuku where you can

ride horses and receive salt therapy in a roasting sauna. The tatami-lined

rooms are open and bright and you certainly won’t go hungry at mealtime.

Take a Hon-line bus from Ryōtsu to Undōkōen-mae and tell the driver

you’re going to Tōkaen; otherwise it’s a 3km walk.

The owners are experts on Sado’s many hidden hiking trails.

Itōya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 伊藤屋; %0259-55-2019; www.itouyaryokan.com; 278 Mano Shin-machi, Mano; r per

person ¥5300, incl 2 meals ¥7300; pW)

This welcoming ryokan in quiet Mano suits solo travellers. Rooms and

common areas are full of handicrafts from across the island, and evening

dishes feature seafood prominently. The inviting hinoki (wooden bath) is

filled with ocean water to permeate your bones. It’s just 50m southwest of

the Shin-machi traffic signal.

5 Eating & Drinking

A few cafes line the exit from the ferry terminal in Ryōtsu, and there are a

couple of simple restaurants within a 10-minute walk south. Mano has a

handful of restaurants lining the attractive main thoroughfare. Aikawa has

some spots too, like Kimpuku and Kyōmachi Chaya. There are a few small

noodle shops and seafood restaurants in Sotokaifu, but don’t go looking for

food after dark because you won’t find any. Ogi has some delicious seafood,

like Uohara, and noodle joints, like Shichiemon; head for the main street,

which winds up the hill opposite the port.

Shimafumi

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; しまふうみ; %0259-55-4545; www.shimafumi.com; 105-4 Dai-shō; cakes ¥200-600;

h9am-5pm Thu-Tue)

On a bend in the road at the southern tip of Mano Bay, this unexpectedly

excellent bakery-cafe serves a wide variety of baked goods as well as coffee,

cold drinks and ice creams. The outside tables overlooking the water are a

lovely spot on a sunny day.

Uohara

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP ; 魚晴; %0259-86-2085; 415-1 Ogi-machi; meals from ¥1100; h11am-5pm, closed

irregularly)

The speciality here is awabi (abalone), grilled as a steak (at market rate) or,

more affordably, barbecued with a sweet soy-sauce marinade and served

over rice. Follow the shop-lined road snaking up the hill behind the tourist

information centre for about 250m until you see a white building on the left

with red and blue writing on the side. There’s a picture menu.

Kimpuku

YAKITORI

¥

( MAP ; 金福; %0259-74-3934; 2-9 Aikawa; dishes from ¥500; h5-11pm)

Kimpuku operates on a simple premise: few seats, fast service, hot grill,

quality meat, succulent sauces. Sado islanders often clock in here when

passing through Aikawa.

Shichiemon

SOBA

¥

( MAP ; 七右衛門; %0259-86-2046; 643-1 Ogi-machi; noodles from ¥550; h11am-2pm)

This longestablished eatery serves slightly flatterthan-usual teuchi

(handmade) soba every which way.

Kyōmachi Chaya

CAFE

( MAP ; 京町茶屋; %080-1093-6341; 5 Aikawa Yaoya-machi; h10am-4pm Wed-Mon)

Grab a slice of fluffy chiffon cake and an iced coffee at this cafe and gallery

in a restored merchant’s house. The views and sea breezes from inside or the

small plaza outside are delightful.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (佐渡観光協会; %0259-27-5000; www.visitsado.com;

2nd fl, Sado Kisen Ferry Terminal; h8.30am-6pm) Be sure to stop in here on your way

out of the ferry terminal. There’s an excellent selection of English maps and

pamphlets, including walking and cycling guides for all of the island’s main

areas. The helpful English-speaking staff can arrange car rental.

Ryōtsu Post Office (両津郵便局; %0259-27-3634; 2-1 Ryōtsu-ebisu; hpost office 9am-

5pm Mon-Fri, ATM 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) Has an international ATM.

Another branch opposite the ferry terminal has shorter hours.

8 Getting There & Away

Sado Kisen (佐渡汽船; www.sadokisen.co.jp; Ryotsuminato 353) runs frequent car

ferries (from ¥2170/10,910 per adult/car, three hours) and hydrofoils (¥6390,

one hour) between Niigata and Sado’s main port of Ryōtsu (Ryotsuminato 353).

Service is greatly reduced outside the summer months. It’s generally cheaper

to rent a car on the island than take one on the ferry.

From Naoetsu-kō, about 90km southwest of Niigata, there are also up to

three daily carferry services to Ogi (Ogi-machi 1950) (from ¥3780/13,340 per

adult/car, 2½ hours); these are particularly useful during Earth Celebration.

From March to November there are one to three daily high-speed ferries

(¥2830, one hour) between Akadomari (Akadomari 2208) and Teradomari,

45km south of Niigata.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Cycling is an enjoyable way to move around the towns, but steep elevations

make long-distance cruising a challenge. Tourist information centres in

Ryōtsu, Aikawa and Ogi rent electric bicycles (¥500/2000 per two/24 hours).

One-way hire is also available (¥1100 per bike). Local shops in Ryōtsu and

Ogi rent regular bikes for slightly less.

BUS

The island is well served by buses, though winding roads mean services are

slow and can be confusing. Buses leave from Ryōtsu for destinations across

the island from a well-marked bus terminal to the right as you exit the ferry.

The Minamisen line connects Ryōtsu with Mano (¥840, one hour) and

Sawata (¥880, 1¼ hours), while the Honsen line runs from Ryōtsu to Aikawa

(¥840, one hour), via Sawata.

There is one direct daily service between Ryōtsu and Ogi (¥1400, 1½

hours) departing at 6.50am from both Ogi and Ryōtsu. Otherwise buses from

Ogi travel to Mano (¥840, 45 minutes) and Sawata (¥880, one hour), from

where you can change for Ryōtsu and other destinations.

A multitude of other lines criss-cross the interior; be sure to pick up the

English-language Sado Island Fixed Route Bus Map before you leave the

port.

Buy tickets on board the bus – take a numbered ticket as you enter, and

pay the fare as you disembark at the end of your journey. The unlimited-ride

bus pass (one/two/three days ¥1500/2500/3000) is good value; purchase one

on board or at any of the island’s information centres.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Renting a car on the island is probably the best way to explore: it’s much

cheaper than bringing a car over on the ferry. Expect to pay ¥6000 to

¥10,000 per day, depending on size and availability. Sado Kisen Car Rental

(%0259-27-5195) in the ferry terminal is a friendly, helpful operator. Petrol

stations are few and far between outside the main towns, but you’ll often pay

a per-kilometre fee for petrol and not be required to return the car with a full

tank. Unless you plan to circumnavigate the island or stay a long time,

you’re unlikely to use a full tank.

DON’T MISS

STROLLING THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE IN MANO

Mano was the capital and cultural centre of the island from early times until the 14th century.

It’s now a quiet seaside village with a few attractive wooden buildings.

A peaceful 7km nature trail east of town winds through paddy fields and past Mano’s

attractions. The entrance is near the Danpū-jō bus stop, along the Minami bus route between

Ryōtsu and Sawata. From the trailhead, it’s a short walk to Myōsen-ji ( MAP ; 妙宣寺; %0259-

55-2061; hdawn-dusk), which was founded by one of the Buddhist monk Nichiren’s disciples

and features a distinctive five-storey pagoda.

From Myōsen-ji, it’s a 10-minute walk through farmland and up old wooden steps set into the

hillside to Kokubun-ji ( MAP ; 国分寺; %0259-55-2059; 113 Kokubun-ji; hdawn-dusk), Sado-

ga-shima’s oldest temple, dating from AD 741. Another 3km takes you past marvellous lookout

points to Mano Go-ryō ( MAP ; 真野御陵; h10am-5pm), the tomb of Emperor Juntoku. From

there it’s a short walk down to the Sado Museum of History & Tradition ( MAP ; 佐渡歴史

伝説館; Sado Rekishi Densetsukan; %0259-55-2525; www.sado-rekishi.jp; 655 Mano;

adult/child ¥800/400; h8.30am-5.30pm), where tireless animatrons act out scenes from Sado’s

dramatic past.

Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 越後 湯沢温泉

%025 / POP 8046

If Kawabata Yasunari’s famous novel Yuki-guni (Snow Country), set here, is

to be believed, Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen (越後湯沢温泉) was once a hot-

spring retreat where geisha competed for guests’ affections. Then came

skiing and the shinkansen. Winter visitors generally head straight to the

slopes of Gala Yuzawa and then back home, but there are plenty of great

onsen here year-round.

1 Sights

Echigo-Tsumari Art Field

PUBLIC ART

(越後妻有大地の芸術祭の里; www.echigotsumari.jp) F

This open-air gallery was conceived in 2000 as a way to bring visitors to this

enchantingly beautiful rural area of green fields and historical wooden

farmhouses. Scattered over 770 sq km you’ll find more than 160 art

installations by Japanese and international artists, set as naturally as possible

in the landscape. Catch a train from Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen to Tōkamachi

(¥610, 30 minutes) and download maps online. You’ll need a car to make the

most of it all.

The area really comes to life during the summer-long Echigo-Tsumari

Triennial (next up in 2021).

Yuzawa Town History Museum

MUSEUM

(雪国館; Yukiguni-kan; %025-784-3965; 354-1 Yuzawa; ¥500; h9am-5pm Thu-Tue)

This lovely little museum displays memorabilia from the life of author

Kawabata Yasunari, the first Japanese recipient of the Nobel Prize for

Literature, in addition to interesting displays about life in snow country that

bring his classic book to life. From the west exit of Echigo-Yuzawa Station,

turn right and walk about 500m.

2 Activities

Gala Yuzawa

SNOW SPORTS

(ガーラ湯沢; https://gala.co.jp/winter; 1-day lift ticket adult/child ¥4600/2300; h8am-5pm Dec-Apr)

With its own shinkansen stop at the base of the mountain, it’s possible to

wake up in Tokyo, hit the slopes here after breakfast and be back in the big

smoke for dinner: the slopes can get predictably packed. Three quad lifts

alongside six triple and double lifts help to thin the crowds. Expect queues at

peak times.

Runs range the gamut from beginner to intermediate and advanced, with

the longest stretching 2.5km. English is spoken everywhere, and you’ll see

plenty of other foreigners. Full equipment rental is available for ¥5000 per

day. Tokyo travel agents can often arrange cheap packages that include lift

and train fare, especially if you’re planning to head up on a weekday.

4 Sleeping

Most visitors are day trippers from Tokyo, but there are plenty of options if

you want to spend the night to take advantage of the hot springs and aim to

be first on the slopes the following day.

Hotel Futaba

HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテル双葉; %025-784-3357; www.hotel-futaba.com; 419 Yuzawa; per person from ¥8500, incl 2 meals from ¥14,600; paW)

The full onsen hotel experience is accessible at Futaba, which also provides

a free shuttle service to Gala Yuzawa. The common areas are a little

impersonal, but the Japanese-style rooms are large and cosy, and the food is

excellent.

o Hatago Isen

RYOKAN

¥¥

(HATAGO井仙; %025-784-3361; www.hatagoisen.jp; 2455 Yuzawa; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥14,000; paW) F

This sumptuous ryokan perfects the aesthetic of an old-time travellers’ inn

with dim lighting and dark wood, while maintaining modern conveniences.

Rooms vary from humble singles to deluxe suites with private rotemburo.

Meals feature local ingredients and are unusually flexible: you can choose

from three different dinner courses and even elect to swap breakfast for

lunch and a later checkout.

NASPA New Ōtani

RESORT

¥¥¥

(NASPAニューオータニ; %025-780-6111; www.naspanewotani.com; 2117-9 Yuzawa; r per

person incl 2 meals & lift pass from ¥17,000; pniWs)

This family- and foreigner-friendly resort has its own backyard ski park that

is particularly suited to beginners and small children. Rooms are Western-

style and reasonably spacious, and there’s a whole range of resort facilities,

including an onsen. Free shuttles take just five minutes to run between

Echigo-Yuzawa Station and the resort.

5 Eating

The train-station area has some excellent restaurants that do a brisk trade

during winter, but are often closed in the warmer months. Otherwise eat

meals at your lodging up the mountain.

Kikushin

SOBA

¥

(菊新; %025-784-2881; 1-1-2 Yuzawa; bowls from ¥950; h11am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Thu-Tue)

Just outside the train station’s east exit, on the corner, Kikushin serves

delicious soba (hot or cold) and crunchy tempura (including mountain

mushrooms) – perfect on a cold day.

Moritaki

UDON

¥¥

(森瀧; %025-784-3600; 357-5 Yuzawa; dishes from ¥620; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Thu-Tue)

The family at this fabulous little nabe (hotpot) restaurant prepares handmade

udon noodles and various small beer-drinking sides. It’s intimate and always

busy.

8 Information

Echigo-Yuzawa Tourist Information Center (広域観光情報センター;

%025-785-5678; www.e-yuzawa.gr.jp; Echigo-Yuzawa Station; h8am-6pm) Friendly, Englishspeaking staff provide a plethora of English-language maps and brochures,

including a Gastronomic Guide to nearby restaurants. Baggage storage is

also available (¥500 per bag).

8 Getting There & Away

There are several hourly shinkansen on the Jōetsu line from Tokyo to

Echigo-Yuzawa (¥6150, 1¼ hours). Trains continue from Echigo-Yuzawa to

Niigata (¥4860, 45 minutes).

Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen is connected to Naeba by regular local buses

(¥660, 40 minutes). A free shuttle runs between Echigo-Yuzawa Station and

Gala Yuzawa.

Naeba 苗場

%025

Not much more than a bus stop and a ski resort, Naeba (苗場) nonetheless

enjoys a gorgeous mountain location. Expect some serious talent on the

slopes (and at the welcoming après-ski scene). Indie music lovers across the

world know Naeba for the wondrous summertime Fuji Rock Festival,

Japan’s biggest outdoor music festival.

2 Activities

Naeba Ski Resort

SNOW SPORTS

(苗場スキー場; %025-789-4117; www.princehotels.com; 202 Mikuni, Yuzawa; day lift

ticket/combined with Kagura ¥5000/5700, equipment per day from ¥5000; hDec-Apr; c)

The longest of Naeba’s 20-plus runs (4km) winds through birch forests and

mogul fields prior to dropping a full 1km. The snow tends to be dry and

light, and there are plenty of ungroomed areas where you can carve up some

serious powder. English is widespread.

There’s also a snow park for kids and a freestyle snowboarding course

complete with rails, halfpipes and kickers. At the bottom of the hill, you’ll

find the N-Plateau, a massive complex with food court, onsen, convenience

store and ski shop.

The awesomely named Dragondola (ドラゴンドラ), covering a distance

of 5.5km, is reportedly the longest gondola in the world and whisks you

away to neighbouring Kagura resort in just 15 minutes.

Kagura Ski Resort

SNOW SPORTS

(かぐらスキー場; %025-788-9221; www.princehotels.com; 742 Mitsumata, Yuzawa; day lift

ticket/combined with Naeba ¥4700/5700, equipment per day from ¥4200; hNov-May)

Contiguous with Naeba, Kagura is an impressive mountain in its own right,

with an additional 20-plus runs from beginner to advanced and a lax policy

on backcountry skiing: experienced alpinists can really have an extreme

adventure up here. For those who feel more comfortable sticking to the

trails, one of the courses here reaches an impressive 6km.

With the combined pass, you can travel freely between Naeba and Kagura

on the Dragondola at any time. Free shuttle buses depart from the bottom of

the Mitsumata area.

z Festivals & Events

Fuji Rock Festival

MUSIC

(www.fujirockfestival.com; hlate Jul)

The Fuji Rock Festival now ranks among the most prominent music festivals

in the world. Big-name acts across a variety of genres – with ample indie,

pop and electronica – take the stage over three days. It’s a peaceful scene

and a gorgeous mountain setting. Certainly a must-do for contemporary

music lovers.

4 Sleeping

A lot of folk choose to sleep down the mountain in Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen,

where there’s more action, but to beat the morning rush on the slopes there

are some decent options in the village itself. Most places close in the warmer

months (except during Fuji Rock).

Wadagoya Mountain Hut

HUT

¥

(和田小屋; %025-789-2211; www.princehotels.com; Mt Kagura; dm per person incl 2 meals

¥7800; hDec-Apr)

The Prince Hotel runs this mountain hut on Kagura. Sleeping elbowto-elbow

on futons in a communal room, you’ll make friends and cut first tracks in the

morning. Arrive in Naeba by 3pm in order to catch the sequence of lifts up

to the hut.

Prince Hotel Naeba

HOTEL

¥¥

(プリンスホテル苗場; %025-789-2211; www.princehotels.co.jp/naeba; 202 Mikuni, Yuzawa; r from ¥8078; pnaiW)

All of the ski action in Naeba centres on this monolithic resort at the base of

the mountain. On offer are a wide range of Western-style rooms and suites

that vary considerably in size, amenities and price – check online for

specials – in addition to a slew of bars, cafes, restaurants and health and

fitness facilities.

5 Eating & Drinking

There is nowhere of note to eat here outside the resorts – head back down

the mountain to Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen.

During the ski season the odd drinking venue pops up and the Prince

Hotel in particular welcomes nonguests.

8 Getting There & Away

Naeba is connected to Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen by regular local buses (¥660,

40 minutes). There are free shuttle buses to the Prince Hotel from Echigo-

Yuzawa Onsen for registered guests.

At the height of the ski season, Seibu Travel (%03-5910-2525;

http://bus.seibutravel.co.jp/en) runs the White Snow Shuttle Bus between the

Shinagawa Prince Hotel in Tokyo and Naeba (¥3600, 4¼ hours).

FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE 福島県

Fukushima Prefecture (福島県; Fukushimaken), Japan’s third-largest

prefecture, runs from the Pacific Ocean in the east through to vast

mountainous terrain in the west. In the centre nestles the lush, lake-spotted

Bandai Plateau, a haven for hikers, campers and outdoor enthusiasts. The

peaceful medieval capital, Aizu-Wakamatsu, makes an ideal base to explore

the many traditional villages hidden along rickety train lines. In winter skiers

seek out remote runs, and steaming onsen fill up on weekends.

The Fukushima Dai-ichi Exclusion Zone only applies to a small fraction

of the prefecture, and is clearly signposted and safeguarded.

Aizu-Wakamatsu 会津若松

%0242 / POP 124,062

Aizu-Wakamatsu (会津若松) is a former feudal capital with a number of

interesting historical attractions and a bucolic location on the Bandai

Plateau. A leisurely cycle around its wide, quiet streets – Nanoka-machi-dōri

has a number of old-fashioned shops selling local crafts – is a pleasant way

to spend time between forays along rickety train lines to traditional villages

in the surrounding foothills.

History

Aizu-Wakamatsu was once the capital of the Aizu clan, whose reign came to

an end in the Bōshin civil war of 1868, when the clan sided with the

Tokugawa shogunate against the imperial faction. The fall of Aizu is famous

throughout Japan on account of the Byakkotai (White Tigers). This group of

teenage samurai committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment)

when they saw Tsurugajō castle shrouded in smoke. In reality it was the

surrounding area that was ablaze and it took weeks before defeat was final,

but the White Tigers emerged as a powerful symbol of loyalty and fraternity.

Their story is commemorated at Iimori-yama, the mountain where they met

their end.

1 Sights

The main sights in Aizu are arrayed around the fringes of downtown.

English signage makes it easy to get around on foot; alternatively catch the

Classic Town Bus. Be sure to visit the area around Iimori-yama.

Aizu Bukeyashiki

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP ; 会津武家屋敷; %0242-28-2525; Innai Higashiyama-machi; adult/child ¥850/450;

h8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Mar; p)

This is a superb reconstruction of the yashiki (villa) of Saigō Tanomo, the

Aizu clan’s chief retainer. Wander through the 38 rooms, which include a

guestroom for the Aizu lord, a tea-ceremony house, quarters for the clan’s

judge and a rice-cleaning mill, presented here in full, noisy working order.

Iimori-yama

HISTORIC SITE

( MAP ; 飯盛山)

On the eastern edge of Aizu is Iimori-yama, the mountain where the White

Tigers (Byakkotai) samurai killed themselves during the civil war of 1868.

You can take an escalator (¥250) or walk to the top to visit their graves.

There are also some creepy old monuments here, gifted by the former fascist

regimes of Germany and Italy, in honour of the samurai’s loyalty and

bravery.

At the foot of Iimori-yama, White Tigers Memorial Hall ( MAP ; 白虎隊

記念館, Byakkotai Kinenkan; %0242-24-9170; 33 Bentenshita; adult/child ¥400/200; h8am-5pm

Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Dec-Mar) tells the story of the dramatic suicides of the teenage

samurai who died during the Bōshin civil war of 1868, and houses their

personal possessions.

Halfway up the mountain, look for Sazae-dō ( MAP ; さざえ堂; %0242-22-

3163; 1404 Bentenshita; ¥400; h9am-5pm), a weird and wonderful hidden gem in a

Buddhist temple complex. Built in 1796 the 16.5m-high hexagonal wooden

structure houses 33 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Once

inside you follow a fabulous, spiral, Escher-esque staircase that allows you

to journey up and back down again without retracing your steps.

Tsuruga-jō

CASTLE

( MAP ; 鶴ヶ城; %0242-27-4005; www.tsurugajo.com; 1-1 Ōte-machi; castle & teahouse garden

¥510; h8.30am-5pm)

The towering 1965 reconstruction of Tsuruga-jō sits in sprawling grounds

framed by the original moat and some ruins of the old castle walls. Inside is

a museum with historical artefacts from battles and daily life, but the real

drawcard is the view from the 5th-floor lookout. On the castle grounds is

Rinkaku teahouse, with a small garden, where you can enjoy a cup of

matcha (¥600).

FUKUSHIMA POST-2011

Like Chernobyl, Fukushima (in English) has become a dirty word, far removed from its ancient

origin. The characters fuku (福) and shima (島) mean ‘luck, good fortune’ and ‘island’. It’s a

cruel irony for the people of this large region that their home has become synonymous with one

of the great human-made misfortunes of our time.

Following the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and tsunami, the nuclear power plant

Fukushima Dai-ichi experienced a meltdown in three of its reactors and an explosion in its

fourth, severely damaging the building in which highly radioactive spent nuclear fuel is stored,

causing an unprecedented and ongoing nuclear disaster. More than 55,000 people were

permanently evacuated. Many still live in crowded, temporary housing and are not allowed to

return to their homes. The government estimates the clean-up within the exclusion zone will not

be completed for many decades to come.

For many travellers to this region, the big question is whether there are any risks. In general,

risks faced by long-term residents far outweigh those encountered by short-term travellers and,

according to the Journal of Radiological Protection (2015), there is essentially no health risk

outside the 20km exclusion zone, which is on the coast 58km from the city of Fukushima and

80km from Sendai.

Read up on the event, the nuclear industry and how radiation affects humans, animals and

plants at the Fairewinds Energy Education site at www.fairewinds.org; for up-to-the-minute

scientific data and radiation readings, visit www.ieaa.org.

Fukushima is Japan’s third-largest prefecture and the 20km exclusion zone is a fraction of the

overall region. Your presence in this beautiful part of the country will help show locals they’ve

not been forgotten.

4 Sleeping

Tagoto

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 料理旅館田事; %0242-24-7500; www.tagotoaizu.com; 5-15 Johoku-machi; r per person from ¥7500; pnaW)

Exceptional hospitality, delicious meals and elegant decor are the hallmarks

of this traditional ryokan, located a few blocks’ walk from the city centre.

Reserve the private bath during check-in for a luxurious soak.

Minshuku Takaku

MINSHUKU

¥¥

( MAP ; 民宿多賀来; %0242-26-6299; www.naf.co.jp/takaku; 104 Innai Higashiyama-machi; r

per person ¥4500, incl 2 meals ¥6500; pniW)

Minshuku Takaku is fairly modest, but the tatami rooms are adequate, and

there’s a pleasant o-furo (bath) and an elegant communal dining area. It’s

located just east of the Aizu Bukeyashiki bus stop; from there continue along

the road, turn left at the post office and it’s just behind, on the left.

5 Eating

Mitsutaya

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP ; 満田屋; %0242-27-1345; www.mitsutaya.jp; 1-1-25 Ō-machi; skewers from ¥260; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue; v)

The versatile soybean is pounded and skewered to perfection at this former

bean-paste mill dating from 1834. The speciality here is dengaku – bamboo

skewers of tofu, mochi (pounded rice cake) or vegetables basted in sweet

miso paste and baked over charcoal. Just point at what you want, or go for

the dengaku cōsu (tasting course; ¥1400).

Takino

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP ; 田季野; %0242-25-0808; www.takino.jp; 5-31 Sakae-machi; wappa meshi from ¥1500;

h11am-9pm; v)

One of the most popular places to try the sublime wappa meshi (steamed fish

or vegetables over rice, prepared in a container made from tree bark, which

adds a woody fragrance). Takino offers several versions, including salmon,

crab and wild mushroom. It’s not particularly cheap for the size of the

portions, but it’s easy to order and quick to reach your table.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (会津若松観光案内所; %0242-33-0688;

www.e.samurai-city.jp; h9am-5.30pm) Inside the JR station. Staff speak limited

English but have plenty of literature to dispense.

Aizu-Wakamatsu Post Office (会津若松郵便局; %0242-22-0840; 1-2-17 Chūō;

h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, ATM 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) Located on the main

street, with an international ATM.

8 Getting There & Away

The JR Tōhoku shinkansen runs hourly between Tokyo and Kōriyama

(¥7680, 1¼ hours). Kōriyama is connected to Aizu-Wakamatsu by the JR

Ban-etsu-saisen line; hourly kaisoku (rapid trains; ¥1140, 1¼ hours) ply this

scenic route. There are a couple of daily kaisoku on the JR Ban-etsu West

line between Aizu-Wakamatsu and Niigata (¥2270, 2½ hours).

Highway buses depart from outside Aizu-Wakamatsu train station for

Tokyo (¥4800, 4½ hours).

8 Getting Around

The retro Classic Town Bus ( MAP ; まちなか周遊バス; %0242-22-5555;

www.aizubus.com; single/day pass ¥210/600) departs from outside the train station and

does a slow loop of the main sights. There are two lines, the ‘Akabe’ and the

‘Haikara-san’; pick up a route map from the tourist office.

Bicycle rental is available at several points around town for ¥500 per day;

enquire at the tourist office.

Bandai Plateau 磐梯高原

%0241

The Bandai Plateau (磐梯高原) is part of the Bandai-Asahi National Park

(磐梯朝日国立公園) and its spectacular scenery attracts all kinds of outdoor

enthusiasts, including hikers, climbers, fishers, skiers and snowboarders. In

the centre is Bandai-san (1819m), a once-dormant volcano that erupted

suddenly in 1888, spewing forth a tremendous amount of debris that’s said to

have lowered the mountain’s height by 600m. The eruption destroyed dozens

of villages and completely rearranged the landscape, resulting in the vast,

lake-dotted plateau now known as Bandai-kōgen.

Bandai Plateau & Around

1 Sights

1 Aizu Bukeyashiki

D3

2 Iimori-yama

D2

Sazae-dō

(see 4)

3 Tsuruga-jō

C3

4 White Tigers Memorial Hall

D2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

5 Bandai-san

C2

6 Goshiki-numa

C1

7 Snow Paradise Inawashiro

C2

4 Sleeping

8 Minshuku Takaku

D3

Size Resort Hotel Urabandai

(see 6)

9 Tagoto

C2

5 Eating

10 Mitsutaya

C2

11 Takino

C2

8 Information

12 Tourist Information Center

A1

13 Tourist Information Center

C2

14 Tourist Information Center

C2

Ura-Bandai Visitors Center

(see 6)

8 Transport

15 Bandai-kōgen Bus Stop

B1

Classic Town Bus

(see 13)

Goshiki-numa Iriguchi Bus Stop

(see 6)

2 Activities

Goshiki-numa

HIKING

( MAP ; 五色沼)

This popular 3.7km nature trail weaves around a dozen or so pools known as

the Five Colours Lakes. Mineral deposits from the 1888 eruption imparted

various hues to the waters – cobalt-blue, emerald-green, reddish-brown –

which change with the weather. Trailheads begin at Goshiki-numa Iriguchi

and Bandai-kōgen bus stops, the main transport hubs beside Hibara-ko, the

largest of the Ura-Bandai lakes.

Buses depart from Inawashiro. In April the trail may still be covered in

packed snow, and November marks the start of the long Tōhoku winter.

Bandai-san

HIKING

( MAP ; 磐梯山)

Six trails lead to Bandai-san summit and its panorama of mountain ranges

and Inawashiro Lake; the summit is accessible from May to October. From

JR Inawashiro Station, catch the bus to Bandai-kōgen to reach the Ura-

Bandai Tozan-guchi (裏磐梯登山口) trail: this is the easiest to reach by

public transport and the most challenging hike, at seven hours return.

After climbing through ski grounds, the path meets the Happō-dai (八方

台) trail, the shortest, most popular route.

Snow Paradise Inawashiro

SNOW SPORTS

( MAP ; 猪苗代スキー場; %0242-62-5100; www.inawashiro-ski.com; 7105 Hayama, Inawashiro-machi; 1-day lift ticket adult/child ¥4700/3900, equipment rental per day ¥3900; hDec-Mar; c)

Bandai-san’s original ski area, Inawashiro has 16 runs – most are beginner

and intermediate, which, in conjunction with scant weekday crowds, makes

this resort a great choice for novices and families. Veterans may grow bored

with the limited options. The slopes are located in the hills above Inawashiro

town. Frequent shuttles run between JR Inawashiro Station and the resort in

season.

4 Sleeping

Inawashiro has the widest range of accommodation, while the winding roads

around Bandai-kōgen are home to a plethora of resortstyle complexes

popular with bus tours and skiiers.

Size Resort Hotel Urabandai

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; サイズリゾートホテル裏磐梯; %0241-23-7776; www.sizeresorthotel-u.com;

1093 Kengamine, Hibara; r per person from ¥6300; paW)

Well located for hiking in the Urabandai region, this recently renovated hotel

has a dozen small but pristine rooms, a light-filled dining room and a small

attached onsen.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center (裏磐梯観光協会; %0242-62-2048;

www.bandaisan.or.jp; Ogida-1-4 Chiyoda, Inawashiro-machi; h8.30am-5pm) Outside JR

Inawashiro Station; get trail maps here for Bandai-san hikes and beyond.

Ura-Bandai Visitors Center ( MAP ; 裏磐梯ビジターセンター; %0241-32-

2850; 1093-697 Kengamine, Hibara; h9am-4pm) Near the Goshikinuma Iriguchi

trailhead.

8 Getting There & Around

Several kaisoku (rapid trains) run daily along the JR Ban-etsu West line

between Aizu-Wakamatsu and Inawashiro (¥500, 30 minutes).

From outside JR Inawashiro Station, frequent buses depart from stop 3 for

the Goshiki-numa Iriguchi trailhead (¥770, 25 minutes), before heading on

to the Bandai-kōgen bus stop ( MAP ; ¥890, 35 minutes).

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Sapporo

Central Hokkaidō

Niseko

Otaru

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park

Tomakomai

Hakodate

Northern Hokkaidō

Asahikawa

Biei

Furano

Daisetsuzan National Park

Wakkanai

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park

Eastern Hokkaidō

Abashiri

Shari

Shiretoko National Park

Akan National Park

Kushiro

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park

Tokachi

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Why Go?

Hokkaidō (北海道) is the Japan of wide-open spaces, with 20% of the

country’s land area but only 5% of its population. There are large swathes of

wilderness here, with primeval forests, tropical-blue caldera lakes, fields of

alpine wildflowers and bubbling, in-the-rough hot springs. In the summer, all

this (plus the cooler, drier weather) draws hikers, cyclists and strollers.

Winter is a different beast entirely: cold fronts from Siberia bring huge

dumps of light, powdery snow, which has earned Hokkaidō a reputation as a

paradise for skiers and snowboarders; there are international-level resorts here,

but also remote backcountry opportunities.

The island’s stunning natural scenery and the promise of outdoor adventure

tend to overshadow everything else Japan’s northernmost island has to offer,

which is a lot: there is excellent food, especially seafood; a vibrant capital city;

and a compelling history, starting with the legacy of Hokkaidō’s indigenous

people, the Ainu.

When to Go

Jun–Aug Hiking season reaches its peak during the holidays of July and

August.

Sep & Oct A brief but intense autumn is marked by changing leaves.

Dec–Mar Subzero chill and Siberian snowfalls herald the ski season.

Best Places to Eat

A Menya Saimi

A Musu Bar + Bistro

A Kikuyo Shokudo

A Niseko Loft Club

A Robata Chidori

A Poronno

Best Places to Stay

A Marukibune

A Momoiwa-sō Youth Hostel

A SappoLodge

A Akan Yuku-no-sato Tsuruga

A Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō

Sapporo & Hokkaidō Highlights

1 Daisetsuzan National Park Charting a path through the wilderness in

Japan’s largest national park, nicknamed the ‘rooftop of Hokkaidō’.

2 Niseko Carving fresh tracks in the famous powder of Asia’s top ski

destination.

3 Sapporo Getting your urban fix in the restaurants and bars of Susukino

and drinking Sapporo beer straight from the source.

4 Noboribetsu Onsen Saying goodbye to stiff muscles in steaming baths of

natural hot-spring water.

5 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park Taking the ferry to the remote

islands of Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō for hiking and uni (sea urchin).

6 Hakodate Strolling through 19th-century streetscapes of a historic port

city.

7 Shiretoko National Park Getting close to higuma (brown bears) and

spawning salmon at this Unesco World Heritage Site.

8 Akan National Park Learning about Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, the

Ainu, in the park’s lakeside kotan (village).

History

Hokkaidō was connected to northern Asia via Sakhalin, the large island to the

north, and the Kuril Islands, a long archipelago reaching from the Kamchatka

peninsula towards eastern Hokkaidō, during the glacial age. It is believed that

humans moved into the region around 30,000 years ago, following the

mammoths and bison that once roamed these parts. In the 12th or 13th century,

influenced by both the burgeoning Japanese civilisation to the south and the

hunting and fishing tribes to the north (in Sakhalin and beyond), a distinct

culture formed. The people called themselves Ainu, which meant ‘human’ and

their land Mosir, which meant ‘world’.

Prior to 1869, the Japanese called the island Ezo (or Yezo) and its people

emishi (basically, barbarians). Hokkaidō was a foreign land. As the Japanese

empire solidified and expanded in the 14th and 15th centuries, many Japanese

people moved north, lured by the promise of profit in trade. Conflicts erupted

occasionally between the Ainu and the Japanese settlers, but they remained

important trading partners: the Japanese coveted the dried fish, seaweed pelts

and furs of the Ainu; the Ainu had come to depend on the iron goods imported

from the south.

Then, in 1590, the Matsumae clan of northern Honshū was given permission

by shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi to extend their domain over the southern reach

of Ezo – in order to better protect Japan from ‘barbarian’ attack. In 1604 the

newly established Tokugawa shogunate granted the Matsumae clan exclusive

trading rights in Ezo. With consolidated authority (and occasional force), the

Matsumae were able to push forward with trade and production regulations that

resulted in the Ainu working for the Japanese (in fisheries, for example) in

order to receive the same goods they had previously acquired through trade.

Japanese authority crept ever northward throughout the 18th and 19th

centuries, with colonialisation beginning in earnest following the Meiji

Restoration. In 1869, the new government formally annexed Ezo, renamed it

Hokkaidō (‘northern sea territory’), and established the Kaitakushi

(Development Commission) to promote settlement and introduce agriculture

and manufacturing to the region. Among those who were encouraged to move

north were the newly unemployed (and potentially troublesome) samurai class

and luckless second sons (as first-born sons traditionally inherited everything).

The primary purpose of this push northward was to halt Russian expansion

southward, but it was devastating for the Ainu. While the Ainu had previously

been prohibited from dressing like Japanese – in order to distinguish them –

new regulations demanded assimilation, banning the Ainu language and

traditional ways of life.

Following the Japanese victory in the 1904–05 Russo-Japanese War, Japan

took control of the whole of the island of Karafutō (now Sakhalin). By 1940,

400,000 Japanese were living there as part of a continuing colonial effort. In

the final days of WWII, Russia recaptured Sakhalin, as well as the southern

Kuril Islands, which were then part of Japan (and now referred to in Japan as

the Northern Territories).

Still today Japan continues to dispute the ownership of the latter, which were

captured after Japan’s surrender to the Western European powers (Russia was

not party to that treaty). The islands remain a point of contention between

Japan and Russia, to the point that the two countries have yet to sign a peace

treaty ending the war.

In September 2018, the island was hit by several major earthquakes, one of

which caused a deadly landslide, ruptured highways, destroyed homes and

buildings, and caused major power outages across the south and central parts of

the island. Though the structural damage was quickly repaired, tourism

dropped to a fraction of what it would have been as people avoided the area.

Climate

Surprisingly, Sapporo, at around 43°N, is about the same latitude as Marseille

in the south of France and southern Oregon in the USA. The freezing winters

for which Hokkaidō are known are a result of the island’s proximity to Siberia

and cold northwesterly winds, which bring significant snowfall, especially on

the Sea of Japan side of the island.

Summers in Hokkaidō are relatively cool and dry compared to hot and

humid Honshū to the south (making the island a popular escape). The typhoons

that can wreck travel plans in the southern half of Japan don’t usually reach

this far – though one did, in 2016, causing enough damage to suspend some rail

lines for months. Winter comes early: Daisetsuzan gets its first snowfall in

October (and sometimes late September). This range of mountains in the dead

centre of Hokkaidō is the coldest region in Japan, where temperatures can drop

to -20°C.

Natural Parks

Hokkaidō has six national parks, including Japan’s largest, Daisetsuzan

National Park. As much of this protected landscape was formed by volcanic

activity, all parks (except for Kushiro-shitsugen) have natural hot springs.

A Akan Caldera lakes set in pristine forests of fir and spruce.

A Daisetsuzan A true wilderness of primeval forests, covering more than 2300

sq km, with 15 peaks over 2000m.

A Kushiro-shitsugen Japan’s largest wetland and an important habitat for the

endangered red-crowned crane.

A Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu Isolated islands and marshlands with endemic flora.

A Shikotsu-Tōya Clear caldera lakes and active volcanoes.

A Shiretoko A remote, wild peninsula with little human intervention (and lots

of wildlife).

4 Sleeping

One of the joys of visiting Hokkaidō is getting to stay in some truly fantastic

(and reasonably priced) lodgings run by eccentric characters. Outside of

Sapporo and resort areas like Niseko, world-class hotels are basically non-

existent; travelling here means roughing it a bit. In almost any city, you can

find basic economy chains, of which Toyoko Inn (www.toyoko-inn.com) is the

most reliable and prevalent. Hostels and campgrounds are plentiful, too.

Hokkaidō also has the greatest number of ‘rider houses’, bare-bones budget

accommodation options reserved for travellers on two wheels.

5 Eating

Hokkaidō is a fantastic place to eat, serving up specialities different from what

you might find elsewhere in Japan – thanks to its bountiful land, ample coast

and a climate that favours belly-warming dishes. Sapporo has the liveliest

dining scene, while Niseko, with its star rising ever higher, is becoming more

than just a ski spot – it’s got some decent restaurants year-round. In coastal

areas, the fresh, seasonal seafood – particularly the shellfish – is tops.

In rural areas, restaurants may be hard to come by. Look for Michi-no-eki

(道の駅; road stations), like highway service areas, but for country roads. In

addition to toilets, tourist information and coffee, Michi-no-eki usually have

cafeterias and shops selling local produce and homemade specialities. They’re

well signposted. Another lifesaver is the only-in-Hokkaidō convenience store

chain Seico Mart.

8 Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Wildlife and weather pose the biggest threats in Hokkaidō. This is bear country

and the bears up here are different to the small black bears that inhabit Honshū;

they are higuma (Ussuri brown bear), thought to be the ancestor of the North

American grizzly bear, and they’re much bigger and more aggressive.

Take all precautions, especially in the early morning and at dusk, and avoid

hoofing it alone. Make a lot of noise; like Japanese hikers, tie a kuma-yoke

(bear bell) to your rucksack. The theory goes that bears want to meet you face

to face about as much as you want to meet them face to face and if they hear

you coming, they’ll avoid you at all costs.

If you’re camping, use the steel food bins or tie up your food and do not

bury your rubbish. Bear activity picks up noticeably during early autumn when

the creatures are actively foraging for food ahead of their winter hibernation.

Be especially cautious at this time.

The Shiretoko Peninsula is home to the highest concentration of higuma on

Hokkaidō, but they are also often sighted in Daisetsuzan National Park; really,

they could be anywhere there are mountains. Only the remote islands of

Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō are bear-free.

Hikers need to also be wary of foxes. It’s estimated that 40% of Hokkaidō’s

foxes carry the parasitic worm echinococcus, so keep away from them and boil

your water if camping. If you’re driving, keep an eye out for deer, especially at

night, and enquire about road conditions if you’re heading up into the

mountains outside of the summer season.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Flying to Hokkaidō is often the cheapest way to get there. Sapporo’s New

Chitose Airport is the main port of entry, seeing an increasing number of direct

international flights wing in from around Asia and the Pacific, including

Taiwan, Hong Kong, China, Korea, Thailand, Guam and Hawaii.

Hokkaidō-based budget carrier Air Do (www.airdo.jp) flies direct from

Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to New Chitose and also to regional airports such as

Asahikawa, Hakodate, Kushiro, Memanbetsu and Obihiro. It also flies to New

Chitose from Hiroshima, Kōbe, Nagoya and Sendai.

ANA (www.ana.co.jp) has flights to New Chitose Airport from cities around

Japan and also direct flights from Tokyo to some of Hokkaidō’s regional

airports, such as Asahikawa, Hakodate, Kushiro, Memanbetsu, Obihiro and

Wakkanai.

The following budget airlines offer cheap flights, from as low as ¥4000 one

way, to New Chitose Airport from Tokyo. If you buy a ticket from Narita, be

sure to factor in the cost and time required for the trip to the airport.

Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) Also flies to/from Nagoya and Osaka.

Skymark (www.skymark.jp)

Vanilla Air (www.vanilla-air.com)

BOAT

Ferries make the journey from Honshū to Hokkaidō. This is pretty much never

the cheapest way to get anywhere, and is always the least time-efficient, but the

ferries themselves can be fun: long-haul ones have communal bathhouses,

dining halls and even karaoke rooms.

Tomakomai is the main port of entry for long-haul ferries. Shorter runs from

Aomori, the northernmost prefecture on Honshū, go to Hakodate. Ferries going

up the Sea of Japan coast travel to Otaru.

The following companies operate ferries to/from Hokkaidō:

MOL Ferry (www.sunflower.co.jp) Between Tomakomai and Ōarai (Ibaraki-

ken) – the closest port to Tokyo.

Seikan Ferry (www.seikan-ferry.co.jp) Runs between Hakodate and Aomori.

Shin-Nihonkai Ferry (www.snf.jp) Down the Japan Sea side of Honshū,

between Tomakomai, Akita, Niigata and Tsuruga (Fukui-ken); and between

Otaru, Niigata and Maizuru (Kyoto-fu).

Silver Ferry (www.silverferry.jp) Between Tomakomai and Hachinohe

(Aomori-ken).

Taiheiyō Ferry (www.taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp) Down the Pacific coast of Honshū,

between Tomakomai, Sendai and Nagoya.

Tsugaru Kaikyō Ferry (www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp) Between Hakodate and

Aomori, and Hakodate and Ōma (at the northernmost tip of Honshū).

TRAIN

With the opening of the Hokkaidō Shinkansen in 2016, it’s now possible to

take a shinkansen (bullet train) all the way from Tokyo to Hakodate, the

terminus in southern Hokkaidō. Travel on the Hokkaidō Shinkansen is included

in the countrywide Japan Rail Pass.

SEIKAN TUNNEL

A marvel of Japanese engineering, the Seikan railway tunnel travels beneath the Tsugaru Strait,

connecting the islands of Honshū and Hokkaidō. With a total length of 53.85km, including a 240m-

deep and 23.3km-long undersea portion, the Seikan Tunnel (青函トンネル), opened in 1988, is

the deepest and longest undersea tunnel in the world.

8 Getting Around

AIR

Flying is a good option if you are short on time and want to hit remote, and

distant, points.

BICYCLE

Hokkaidō is a great place to tour by bike and cyclists are a common sight all

over the island, especially during summer. The Cycle Tourism Hokkaido

Promotion Network has a helpful booklet, called Hokkaido Cycle Tourism, that

covers routes, climate, guidelines for taking bikes on public transport and

more. Find it at www.hkd.mlit.go.jp.

BUS

Buses tend to be the cheapest way to get around Hokkaidō, based on individual

fares, and there is an extensive network of routes. Most city-to-city coaches

require reservations; purchasing a return ticket usually results in a slight

discount. Bus terminals tend to be conveniently located: either next to the train

station or, when the train station itself is outside of town, in a central

location. Chūō Bus (中央バス; %Sapporo terminal 011-231-0600; www.chuo-bus.co.jp), based in Sapporo, is the biggest operator, connecting the capital with pretty

much everywhere.

Regional operators:

Dōhoku Bus (www.dohokubus.com) Between Asahikawa and Obihiro,

Kushiro and Sapporo.

Dōnan Bus (www.donanbus.co.jp) Between Sapporo and points south,

including Hakodate, New Chitose Airport, Tomakomai, Niseko, Rusutsu,

Jōzankei, Tōya-ko Onsen and Noboribetsu Onsen.

Sōya Bus (www.soyabus.co.jp) Between Sapporo and Wakkanai.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

With the advent of multilingual car navigation systems, more and more

travellers are choosing to tour Hokkaidō by car. There is an expanding pay-

your-way expressway system (高速道路; kōsoku-dōro), which is relatively

expensive and you won’t need to use unless you’re in a hurry. A reduced-price

Hokkaidō Expressway Pass

(www.driveplaza.com/trip/drawari/hokkaido_expass) is available for foreign visitors and can be purchased through rental-car companies.

The easiest place to pick up a car is at New Chitose Airport. Shuttles take

you directly to the airport car depots, where friendly English-speaking staff

will get you on your way.

Prices are comparable among the major agencies, between ¥7000 and

¥10,000 per day (depending on the season), plus the cost of fuel. The following

are reliable and can be booked online in English:

JR Hokkaido Rent a Car (www.jrh-rentacar.com) With outlets at major train

stations, good for short-term rentals combined with rail travel.

Nippon Rent-a-Car Hokkaido (www.nrh.co.jp) Outlets in Sapporo, Hakodate

and most regional airports.

Nissan Rent a Car (http://nissan-rentacar.com) Outlets in Sapporo, Hakodate

and most regional airports.

Toyota Rent-a-Car (www.toyotarentacar.net) Outlets in Sapporo and Niseko.

Note that many Japanese companies have a clause that requires you to pay

¥50,000 or so if they are unable to rent the car immediately after you return it.

This can be deceptive, as it may apply to a car that must be cleaned or (in the

case of a minor accident) a ding or scrape that has to be repaired. Insurance

against this is offered, but in otherwise-fair-and-reasonable Japan it seems

usurious.

ROAD TRIPPING HOKKAIDŌ

Hokkaidō is punctuated by caldera lakes and soaring volcanoes, with vast fields and undeveloped

land in between, and long stretches of forlorn sea. You can follow your nose to hot sulphur springs

or be lured by the colourful siren banners of fishing town diners or wind your way through

spectacular mountain passes. It’s meant to be driven, and there’s something to see at nearly every

turn.

Best Drives

A Rte 334 between Utoro and Rausu, via the soaring Shiretoko Pass in Shiretoko National Park.

A Rte 237 from Furano to Biei with detours along the Patchwork Road and Panorama Road, past

flower-filled fields.

A Rte 243 from Abashiri to Kawayu Onsen, via the Bihoro Pass, with fantastic views over

Kussharo-ko in Akan National Park.

A The Ororon Line (オロロンライン; Rte 231), from Otaru to Wakkanai, with the Sea of Japan

and the marshes of Sarobetsu on either side.

A Rte 273 on the eastern edge of Daisetsuzan National Park, through Mikuni Pass and Sōunkyō

gorge.

A The Oiwake Soran Line (追分ソーランライン; Rte 228) along the winding coast of Dō-Nan,

from Hakodate to Esashi.

A The long coastline from Wakkanai to Abashiri on the Okhotsk Line.

Tips for Drivers

A The best time for driving around Hokkaidō is mid-May through mid-October. Any later and snow

can be a problem; coastal routes will be windy then, too. Note that Daisetsuzan is the first place in

Japan to see snow, usually in September. Even if roads are open, use extreme caution driving in the

mountains in winter. July and August will have the most crowds.

A Hokkaidō’s roads are well paved and well signposted in English. What you won’t see noted in

English, however, is road closures or detours. Check before heading out.

A Keep an eye on the speedometer and look out for wildlife, such as deer.

A Most towns will have a petrol station and a convenience store, though many close around 7pm or

8pm.

A Outside of Sapporo, most places have free parking.

A It’s often easiest to enter the phone number of your destination in the car’s navigation system.

A For more information on driving in Hokkaidō, see the tourism bureau’s downloadable handbook

(www.hkd.mlit.go.jp), in English.

TRAIN

While the shinkansen only runs as far as Hakodate, a number of ‘limited

express’ (tokkyū) trains make quick runs between major cities, as far north as

Wakkanai and as far east as Kushiro. Sapporo is the main transit hub for these

trains. Local trains ply the same routes and others, for less, but take much

longer and often require multiple transfers.

In addition to the country-wide Japan Rail Pass, the following options are

available for Hokkaidō-bound travellers. Passes can be purchased from travel

agents abroad or from JR information centres in Hokkaidō and Tokyo,

including those at Narita, Haneda and New Chitose Airports. For details, see:

www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global.

Hokkaidō Rail Pass Unlimited fixed-day (three/five/seven

¥16,500/22,000/24,000, children half-price) and four-day flexible (¥22,000,

children half-price) travel on Hokkaidō’s network of limited express and local

trains ( shinkansen excluded).

JR East-South Hokkaidō Rail Pass (adult/child ¥27,000/13,500) Six-day

unlimited, flexible travel (within 14 days) on shinkansen between Tokyo and

Hakodate and limited express trains between Hakodate and Sapporo (via

Niseko).

SAPPORO 札幌

%011 / POP 1.95 MILLION

Japan’s fifth-largest city, and the prefectural capital of Hokkaidō, Sapporo (札

幌) is a dynamic urban centre that offers everything you’d want from a

Japanese city: a thriving food scene, stylish cafes, neon-lit nightlife, shopping

galore – and then some. While many travellers see the city as a transit hub from

which to access Hokkaidō’s mountains and hot springs, there are enough

worthwhile attractions to keep you here for days. Summer is the season for

beer and food festivals. In February, despite the bitter cold, Sapporo’s

population literally doubles during the famous Snow Festival.

Sapporo

1 Top Sights

1 Ōdōri-kōen

C3

1 Sights

2 Black Slide Mantra

A4

3 Hokkaidō Ainu Center

B3

4 Hokkaidō University Botanical Garden

A2

5 Old Hokkaidō Government Office Building

B2

6 Sapporo Clock Tower

C3

7 Sapporo TV Tower

D3

4 Sleeping

8 JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo

C1

9 Marks Inn Sapporo

C6

10 Nakamuraya Ryokan

B2

11 SappoLodge

D5

12 Sapporo Grand Hotel

C3

5 Eating

13 Daruma

C5

14 Ganso Ramen Yokochō

C5

15 Kani-honke

C2

16 Kani-honke Susukino-ten

C5

17 Milk Mura

C5

18 Ramen Kyōwakoku

C1

19 Saera

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

20 Mugishutei

C6

Riviera

(see 16)

8 Information

21 Hokkaidō-Sapporo Food & Tourist Information Centre

B2

22 JR Information Desk

B1

23 Nomad

C4

24 Sapporo International Communication Plaza

C3

8 Transport

25 Chūō Bus Terminal

D3

26 Ōdōri Bus Terminal

D3

27 Porocle

B2

28 Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal

C2

1 Sights

High season runs from April to October; most attractions have reduced hours

the rest of the year. Many spots close on Mondays.

o Sapporo Beer Museum

MUSEUM

(サッポロビール博物館; %011-748-1876; www.sapporoholdings.jp/english/guide/sapporo;

N7E9 Higashi-ku; h10.30am-6.30pm; p; g88 to Sapporo Biiru-en, bTōhō line to Higashi-

Kuyakushomae, exit 4) F

This legendary Sapporo attraction is in the original Sapporo Beer brewery, a

pretty, ivy-covered brick building. There’s no need to sign up for the tour; there

are plenty of English explanations throughout about Japan’s oldest beer (the

brewery was founded in 1876). At the end there’s a tasting salon (beers ¥200 to

¥300) where you can compare Sapporo’s signature Black Label with Sapporo

Classic (found only in Hokkaidō) and Kaitakushi Pilsner, a re-creation of the

original recipe (found only here).

Afterwards, head next door to the Sapporo Biergarten for more beer and

jingisukan (all-you-can-eat lamb dish). Note that any drivers will not be

allowed to drink.

From the subway it’s a 10-minute walk; the bus stops right out front.

o Ōdōri-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大通公園; www.sapporo-park.or.jp/odori; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri)

This haven in the heart of the city is fully 13 blocks (1.5km) long, with the TV

Tower at its eastern end. Among the green lawns and flower gardens are

benches, fountains and sculptures; don’t miss Noguchi Isamu’s elegant Black

Slide Mantra ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ブラックスライドマントラ). This is also where many of the city’s major events and festivals take place.

The park is a 10-minute walk south from JR Sapporo Station along Eki-mae-

dōri.

Hokkaidō Ainu Center

CULTURAL CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北海道アイヌ協会, Hokkaidō Ainu Kyōkai; %011-221-0462; www.ainu-

assn.or.jpx; 7th fl, Kaderu 2.7 Bldg, N2W7 Chūō-ku; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; dJR Sapporo, south exit;

Ōdōri, exit 2) F

In an office building across the street from Hokkaidō University Botanical

Garden, this cultural centre is run by the Hokkaidō Ainu Association and has a

small display of artefacts and historical information.

If you really want to learn more, the reading room here has pretty much

every book published in English on the Ainu (past and present).

Hokkaidō Museum of Modern Art

MUSEUM

(北海道立近代美術館, Hokkaidō Ritsukindai-bijutsukan;

www.dokyoi.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/hk/knb; N1W17, Chūō-ku; ¥510; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bTōzai line to Nishi-juhatchōme, exit 4)

Hokkaidō’s top collection of modern art includes many works from artists who

were born here, lived here or were inspired by the northern island. Exhibitions

vary, so check the schedule ahead of time.

Moiwa-yama Ropeway

CABLE CAR

(もいわ山ロープウェイ; %011-561-8177; http://moiwa.sapporo-dc.co.jp; 5-3-7 Fushimi;

adult/child return ¥1700/850; h10.30am-10pm; jRōpuwei-iriguchi)

At 531m, Moiwa-yama has fantastic, panoramic views over the city. Part of the

fun is getting there. First you take a gondola for five minutes, then switch to a

cute little cable car for two more minutes. Free shuttle buses run to the

ropeway from the Rōpuwei-iriguchi tram stop; otherwise it’s a 10-minute walk.

Old Hokkaidō Government Office Building

NOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北海道庁旧本庁舎; %011-204-5019; N3W6 Chūō-ku; h8.45am-6pm; bNamboku & Tōhō lines to Sapporo-eki, exit 10) F

Known by all as Akarenga (red bricks), this magnificent neo-baroque building

was constructed of bricks in 1888 and is surrounded by lovely lawns and

gardens. There are various historical exhibits and shows from local artists

inside. While Akarenga closes at 6pm, the gardens are open until 9pm and are a

popular place for a stroll.

Sapporo TV Tower

TOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さっぽろテレビ塔; Sapporo Terebi-tō; www.tv-tower.co.jp; Ōdōri-nishi 1-chōme; adult/child ¥720/300; h9am-10pm; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri, exits 2 & 7)

Beating Tokyo Tower by two years, Sapporo TV Tower (147m) arrived in

1956, bringing with it the modern television age. It was designed by ‘Dr

Tower’ Naitō Tachū, who also designed Nagoya TV Tower (1954), Osaka’s

Tsūtenkaku (1956) and Tokyo Tower (1958). The observation deck at 90m is

rather cramped, but you do get a view straight down Ōdōri-kōen.

Hokkaidō University Botanical Garden

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北大植物園, Hokudai Shokubutsuen; %011-221-0066;

www.hokudai.ac.jp/fsc/bg; N3W8 Chūō-ku; adult/child ¥420/300; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 3.30pm Oct-Mar; dJR Sapporo, south exit)

Among the highlights of this meandering, 14-hectare outdoor garden

maintained by Hokkaidō University, is a collection of 200 plants and herbs

historically used by the Ainu as medicine, food and raw materials for clothing.

There’s also a landscaped section that evokes the alpine scenery of a mountain

in Daisetsuzan, in northern Hokkaidō.

Sapporo Clock Tower

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 札幌市時計台; Sapporo Tokei-dai; www.sapporoshi-tokeidai.jp; N1W2

Chūō-ku; adult/child ¥200/free; h8.45am-5pm; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri, exit 31)

No Japanese tourist can leave Sapporo without snapping a photo of the city’s

signature landmark and oldest building, the clock tower. Built in 1878, the

clock has not missed tolling the hour for more than 130 years. Inside is a

museum on the tower.

1 Greater Sapporo

Ōkura-yama Ski Jump Stadium

MUSEUM

(大倉山ジャンプ競技場; %011-641-8585; www.sapporowintersportsmuseum.com; 1274

Miyanomori, Chūō-ku; combined lift & museum ticket ¥1000, museum only ¥600; h9am-6pm late Apr-

early Nov, 9.30am-5pm early Nov-late Apr; p)

This ski-jump slope was built on the side of Ōkura-yama for the Sapporo 1972

Winter Games. At 133.6m it’s just slightly shorter than Sapporo TV Tower,

with a 33-degree incline. What would it feel like to whiz down that? You can

hazard a guess after taking the rickety old lift up to the top and staring down

the slope. Keep that image in mind when you try the highly amusing

computerised simulator in the museum below.

There are a few other simulators in the museum, as well as photos and

equipment from the 1972 Games – which show just how far winter sports

technology (and fashion!) has come in the last 45 years.

The stadium is actually still in use and if you’re lucky, you might catch a

practice session.

To reach Ōkura-yama, take the Tōzai subway line to Maruyama Kōen (円山

公園), and then take exit 2 for the Maruyama bus terminal. Next, take bus 14 to

Ōkurayamakyōgijō-iriguchi (大倉山競技場入り口; ¥210, 15 minutes); from

here, it’s a 10-minute walk uphill to the stadium.

Moerenuma-kōen

SCULPTURE, PARK

(モエレ沼公園; %011-790-1231; www.sapporopark.or.jp/moere; h7am-10pm) F

Completed in 2005, this former waste-treatment plant to the northeast of the

central city is now an impressive reclaimed green belt. It was originally

designed by the acclaimed Japanese-American artist Noguchi Isamu before his

death in 1988. In addition to works by Noguchi in stone (on which children are

free to climb), there are sculptures of land and water.

To reach the park, take bus 68, 69 or 79 (¥210, 25 minutes, every 10 to 30

minutes) from the Kanjo-dōri Higashi subway stop.

Hokkaidō Museum

MUSEUM

(北海道博物館, Hokkaidō hakubutsukan; %011-898-0466; www.hm.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp; 53-2

Konopporo, Atsubetsu-chō, Atsubetsu-ku; adult/student/child ¥600/300/free; h9.30am-5pm May-Sep, to

4.30pm Oct-Apr; p)

This museum does an admirable job of explaining Hokkaidō’s multilayered

history, from the age of the woolly mammoths to the age of the steam

locomotives, with English throughout. The museum is east of central Sapporo,

in Nopporo Shinrin-kōen.

From Shin-Sapporo Station, take bus 新22 (¥210, 15 minutes, every 60 or so

minutes) from bus stop 10 for Kaitaku-mura (開拓の村) and get off at the

Hokkaidō hakubutsukan stop.

A short walk behind the museum is the modernist Centennial Memorial

Tower (百年記念塔; Hyaku-nen Kinen-tō) designed by architect Iguchi Ken, started

in 1968 to mark Sapporo’s centennial (it was completed in 1970). The footprint

is a hexagon, to evoke a six-sided snowflake; a cross-section reveals the kanji

for ‘north’ (北; kita).

Also in Nopporo Shinrin-kōen is Kaitakumura (開拓の村; %011-898-2692;

www.kaitaku.or.jp; 50-1 Konopporo; adult/child/student ¥800/free/600; h9am-5pm May-Sep, 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; p), an expansive collection of historical buildings (and

some re-creations), that show the diversity of experience in 19th-century

Hokkaidō. There are ornate Victorian town halls; equally grand villas built by

herring barons in the traditional Japanese style; and thatched-roof pioneer

cabins. Most of the buildings you can enter. Entrance is free for international

students living in Hokkaidō (with valid proof of residence). Kaitaku-mura is

the last stop on bus 新22 from Shin-Sapporo Station (¥210, 15 minutes, every

60 minutes).

2 Activities

Sapporo Teine

SNOW SPORTS

(サッポロテイネ; %011-223-5830, bus pack reservations 011-223-5901; www.sapporo-teine.com;

day pass adult/child ¥5200/2600; h9am-5pm Nov-May, to 9pm Dec-Mar; c)

You can’t beat Teine for convenience, as the slopes, which hosted skiing events

for the 1972 Winter Olympics, lie quite literally on the edge of Sapporo. Teine

has two zones: the lower, more beginner- and family-oriented Olympia Zone;

and the higher, more challenging Highland Zone. There are 15 runs and nine

lifts. A variety of packages bring the price down.

If you’re travelling as a family, take advantage of the ‘family pack’, which

gives 10% off one adult-child combo, or 15% off three to five people, and

drops adult equipment rental to ¥3900. The ‘bus pack’ (adult/child

¥6700/4300) gives you round-trip bus service from JR Sapporo Station plus a

seven-hour lift ticket; this deal requires pre-booking by 3pm the day before.

Full equipment rental for skiers/snowboarders is available for ¥5300 per day.

Just 10 minutes from Sapporo by local train, Teine can get very crowded,

particularly on weekends and school holidays. Frequent trains on the JR

Hakodate line run between Sapporo and Teine (¥260). From JR Teine Station,

shuttle buses conveniently run to both zones.

z Festivals & Events

For a list of festivals and events, see www.welcome.city.sapporo.jp.

o Sapporo Yuki Matsuri

CULTURAL

(さっぽろ雪まつり, Sapporo Snow Festival; www.snowfes.com; hFeb; c)

Held in early February, this is one of Japan’s top festivals. From humble

beginnings in 1950, when local high-school students built six snow statues in

Ōdōri-kōen, the festival now hosts an international snow sculpture contest and

draws more than two million visitors annually.

It’s not just ice statues in Ōdōri-kōen and around town: there are frozen

stages for musical acts and ice slides and mazes for kids. There are plenty of

food and drink vendors and you can expect all kinds of drunken revelry,

particularly once the sun sets (at these latitudes, it’s quite early!). Finding

reasonably priced accommodation can be extremely difficult, so book as far in

advance as possible.

Sapporo Summer Matsuri

BEER

(札幌夏まつり; www.sapporo-natsu.com; hmid-Jul–mid-Aug)

The big names plus microbrewers set up outdoor beer gardens in Ōdōri-kōen

from mid-July to mid-August. A whole month of beer drinking in the sun!

During the mid-August, weeklong Obon Festival, part of the summer matsuri,

traditional dances are performed.

4 Sleeping

Budget options have gotten a whole lot better in Sapporo, with a slew of hip

new hostels opening recently. There are a lot of midrange choices, too; prices

often correlate with decor (if you’re not picky, you can find very reasonable

rooms). Book well in advance during festivals (especially the Snow Festival),

holiday weekends and summer. Rates usually increase (by ¥1000 to ¥3000) on

Friday and Saturday nights.

o SappoLodge

GUESTHOUSE

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; サッポロッジ; %011-211-4314; www.sappolodge.com; S5E1-1-4 Chūō-ku; dm/tw from ¥3000/8000; nW; bNamboku line to Susukino, exit 5; Tōhō line to Hōsui-susukino, exit 5)

A little slice of mountain life a stone’s throw from Susukino – you can use the

climbing wall to get to the 2nd-floor dorms instead of the stairs – SappoLodge

is a magnet for outdoorsy types who find themselves in the city. The only

downside is the noise from the (fun, popular) ground-floor bar until ‘quiet

time’ is enforced at 2am.

Owner (and Sapporo native) Nara-san is a real adventurer. He worked as a

guide for 14 years and this is his form of ‘retirement’ – though he still takes

guests on hiking and backcountry excursions to his favourite spots (shoot him

an email if you’re keen).

It’s a great spot for a nightcap, even if you’re not staying here.

Untapped Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(%011-788-4579; www.untappedhostel.com; N18W4 Kita-ku; dm/d from ¥3500/9000, annexe dm ¥3700; naW; bNamboku line to Kitajuhachi-jō, exit 2)

This is one of Sapporo’s new hipster hostels – think raw wood and concrete –

inside an old unagi (eel) shop a minute’s walk from the subway. The rooms,

with Western-style beds and bunks, are spotless, though it’s a hike up to the

3rd-floor dorms. Common space includes a lounge with cosy woodstove,

kitchen and laundry room.

There are two buildings now, a newer annexe and the older ‘honkan’. It can

also rent bikes, if you need one.

Ino’s Place

HOSTEL

$

(イノーズプレイス; %011-832-1828; www.inos-place.com; 3-4-6-5 Higashi-Sapporo, Shiroishi-

ku; dm/s/d from ¥3400/4800/8600; naiW; bTōzai line to Shiroishi, exit 1)

This is a popular backpackers’ spot with all the fixings: friendly, bilingual staff,

clean rooms with modern bunks, private lockers, free coffee and tea, no curfew,

laundry facilities, a kitchen and a communal lounge space. Bonus: the owner is

a juggler and the hostel doubles as a shop for juggling goods.

From the subway exit (don’t go to JR Shiroishi Station!), walk straight for a

few minutes along the main street in the direction of the Eneos petrol station.

Turn right at the fourth traffic light and you’ll see a detached two-storey white

building – you’ve arrived. The website tells you all you need to know.

Sapporo International Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(札幌国際ユースホステル; %011-825-3120; www.youthhostel.or.jp/kokusai; 6-5-35 Toyohira 6-jō, Toyohira-ku; dm/r per person from ¥3200/3800; pnaiW; bTōhō line to Gakuen-mae, exit 2)

This oddly upmarket youth hostel – which looks like a modern apartment

building – is great value, though it’s a little out of the way. Both Western- and

Japanese-style private rooms are available, as well as ‘dorm rooms’ featuring

four full-sized beds that double as family rooms. It fills up quickly; be mindful

of the midnight curfew.

The hostel is just two minutes from the subway station, behind the Sapporo

International Student Centre.

Nakamuraya Ryokan

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中村屋旅館; %011-241-2111; www.nakamura-ya.com; N3W7-1 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥8640/14,800; naiW; bJR Sapporo, south exit)

Located on a side street near the entrance to the Hokkaidō University Botanical

Garden, a 10-minute walk from JR Sapporo Station, this charming Japanese-

style inn is a wonderful introduction to traditional hospitality. Sleeping is on

futons on tatami floors and you can soak in the big communal o-furo (bath).

The owner-managers are friendly and are used to foreign travellers.

Meals are available, too; enquire when booking. Be sure to read up on the

inn’s colourful beginnings on the website.

Marks Inn Sapporo

HOTEL

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; マークスイン札幌; %011-512-5001; www.marks-inn.com; S8W3 Chūō-ku; s ¥4500-9000, d ¥5500-12,000; naiW; bNamboku line to Nakajima-kōen, exit 1)

For private accommodation, you really can’t get cheaper or more convenient

than this business hotel on the edge of the Susukino entertainment district, right

across from the canal. It’s a bit worn and rooms are a bit cramped, but the beds

are comfy and the simple breakfast is free.

Sapporo Grand Hotel

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 札幌グランドホテル; %011-261-3311;

www.grand1934.com/english/index; N1W4 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥23,166/35,046; naiW; dJR Sapporo, south exit)

Established in 1934 as the first European-style hotel in Sapporo, this grand old

dame now occupies three adjacent buildings that lie at the southeast corner of

the former Hokkaidō government building. Rooms vary considerably; those in

the Honkan (main wing) offer the best balance of style and price. The newer

wing is about ¥20,000 more expensive.

JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ＪＲタワーホテル日航札幌; %011-251-2222;

www.jrhotels.co.jp/tower; N5W2-5 Chūō-ku; s/d/tw from ¥26,000/34,000/44,000; naiW; dJR Sapporo, east exit)

You can’t beat the location of this lofty hotel, virtually on top of JR Sapporo

Station. Rooms are plush, service is genteel and the views are fantastic.

Downer: there’s a spa with a natural hot spring but even staying guests pay an

extra ¥1600 to use it.

DON’T MISS

HOKKAIDŌ-STYLE RAMEN

Hokkaidō has no fewer than three ramen cities, each specialising in a different style. In Sapporo

the signature style is hearty miso ramen (味噌ラーメン); in Asahikawa it’s shōyu ramen (醤油

ラーメン; soy-sauce-seasoned ramen); and in Hakodate, shio ramen (塩ラーメン), a light, salt-

seasoned broth. In a nod to two of the prefecture’s staple products, butter and corn, you’ll often

have the option to top off your ramen with either (or both!).

5 Eating

You can eat well without leaving the JR Sapporo Station–Ōdōri–Susukino

corridor, though there are some detour-worthy destination restaurants.

Sapporo’s signature dish is miso ramen (味噌ラーメン), kotteri (thick and

rich), seasoned with pungent miso and topped with stir-fried vegetables.

Another local dish is soup curry (スープカレー), a slurpy take on Japanese-

style curry; usually mild but you can ask to up the spice factor.

o Menya Saimi

RAMEN

$

(麺屋彩未; %011-820-6511; Misono 10-jō Toyohira-ku; ramen from ¥750; h11am-3.15pm & 5-

7.30pm Tue-Sun; p; bTōhō line to Misono, exit 1)

Sapporo takes its ramen very seriously and Saimi is oft-voted the best ramen

shop in the city (and sometimes the country) – and it’s not overrated. You will

have to queue, which is annoying, but you will be rewarded with a mind-

blowing meal for the same price as a convenience store bentō. Get the miso

ramen.

Milk Mura

ICE CREAM

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ミルク村; %011-219-6455; S4W3-7-1; per serving ¥1300; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun; bNamboku line to Susukino, exit 1)

A grown-up twist on the classic ice-cream parlour, Milk Mura serves mugs of

soft-serve ice cream accompanied by three tiny chalices of your choice of

liquors – and there are dozens to choose from. Bottles, some ancient-looking,

cover the counters, fairy lights twinkle and chansons play in the background.

Bonus: one free refill of ice cream.

Saera

SANDWICHES

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さえら; %011-221-4220; 3rd b asement fl, W2 Ōdōri; sandwiches ¥660-940; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri, exit 19)

This Sapporo institution serves sandwiches of the genteel sort (crusts-off,

lightly stuffed), with dozens of fillings. Two to try: the king-crab sandwich and

the curious fruit sandwich, filled with mandarins and whipped cream. It’s in

Ōdōri subway station; at exit 19 go downstairs instead of up, then inside a

department store, where the entry will be on your left. An extra ¥200 gets you

coffee.

Kōhīhausu

JAPANESE CURRY

$

(こうひいはうす; %011-561-9115; S20W15-3; mains from ¥800; h11.30am-7.30pm Mon, Tue &

Thu-Sat, to 2.30pm Wed, to 8pm Sun; p; jRōpuwei-iriguchi)

This soup curry shop near the Moiwa-yama Ropeway comes highly

recommended by Sapporo locals. Most popular: the chicken curry (チキンカ

レー; chikin karē) with a ‘medium’ (中; chū) spice level. Get it with coffee for

¥1000. Kōhīhausu is an unhurried, dimly lit place strewn with antiques.

Ganso Ramen Yokochō

RAMEN

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 元祖さっぽろラーメン横丁; www.gansoyokocho.com; S5W3 Chūō-ku; ramen from ¥800; h11am-3am; bNamboku line to Susukino, exit 3)

This famous alleyway in the Susukino entertainment district is crammed with

ramen shops, including branches of several venerable Hokkaidō shops. It’s

been around since 1952, and is keen to distinguish itself from all the ‘imposter’

ramen alleys.

It can be a little tricky to find (old as it is, it doesn’t glow as bright as

everything else in Susukino), but all locals know where it is. Look for ‘Ganso’

as there are other ramen alleys nearby. Hours for individual shops vary.

Ramen Kyōwakoku

RAMEN

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; らーめん共和国, Ramen Republic; www.sapporoesta.jp/ramen; 10th fl, ESTA Bldg; ramen from ¥780; h11am-10pm; dJR Sapporo, east exit)

An easy option for a bite to eat in the train station, Ramen Kyōwakoku is a

collection of ramen shops from all over Hokkaidō. It’s all here: Sapporo miso

ramen, Asahikawa shōyu ramen and Hakodate shio ramen. A mini option costs

¥600.

Daruma

BARBECUE

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; だるま; %011-552-6013; www.best.miru-kuru.com/daruma; S5W4; plates from ¥750; h5pm-3am; bNamboku line to Susukino, exit 5)

This is where Sapporoites take friends visiting from out of town for the local

speciality, jingisukan (all-you-can-eat lamb dish). There’s nothing fancy here,

just quality meat and a warm homely vibe. Daruma, in business for more than

60 years, is popular and has a few branches around town (see the website),

which is good because the main shop draws long lines. Come early or late to

beat the crowds.

Sushi-no-uo-masa

SUSHI

$$

(鮨の魚政; %011-644-9914; www.asaichi-maruka.jp; Chūō Oroshi-uri-ichiba Maruka Centre 1F, N12W21, Chūō-ku; set ¥2800; h6-11am Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat; p; bTōzai line to Nijū-yonken, exit 5,

dJR Hakodate line to Sōen)

This is something special: sushi for breakfast out at the fish market. It takes an

effort to get here, but the sushi is excellent and you can wander around the

market before and after eating. Sushi-no-uo-masa is smack in the middle of the

stalls that lie between the two restrooms at either end on the ground floor of the

Maruka Oroshiuri Centre.

Not to be confused with Ni-jō Ichiba, the Central Wholesale Market (Chūō

Oroshiuri-ichiba; 中央卸売市場) is a 10-minute walk from either the subway

or the train station.

Kani-honke

SEAFOOD

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 札幌かに本家; %011-222-0018; www.kanihonke.jp; N3W2 Chūō-ku;

lunch/dinner mains from ¥2600/4400; h11.30am-10pm; dJR Sapporo, south exit)

These are the crab guys! The frigid seas surrounding Hokkaidō are bountiful

and yield some of the tastiest crustaceans around. Try the kani-suki (¥4600 per

person), a crab version of sukiyaki; after the crab and vegetables are cooked in

the pot, rice and egg are added to the remaining soup.

You can’t miss it: there’s a huge crab sign on the building. There’s also a

branch (かに本家 すすきの店; %011-551-0018; S6W4 Chūō-ku; h11.30am-11pm;

bNamboku line to Susukino, exit 5) near Susukino crossing.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Sapporo offers far and away the best nightlife in Hokkaidō. While bigger cities

such as Tokyo have multiple nightlife districts catering to different

demographics, in Sapporo it all comes together in Susukino, home to craft-beer

bars, hostess bars, flashy nightclubs and jazz cafes.

o Sapporo Biergarten

BREWERY

(サッポロビール園; %reservation hotline 0120-150-550; www.sapporo-bier-garten.jp; N7E9

Higashi-ku; h11.30am-10pm; g88 to Sapporo Biiru-en, bTōhō line to Higashi-Kuyakusho-mae, exit 4)

This complex next to the Sapporo Beer Museum has no fewer than five beer

halls, the best of which is Kessel Hall, where you can tuck into jingisukan

washed down with all-you-can-drink draught beer direct from the factory

(¥3900 per person). Reservations highly recommended. From the subway it’s a

10-minute walk; the bus stops right out front.

Riviera

CLUB

( MAP ; %011-206-0226; www.riviera-sapporo.com; S6W4 Noguchi Bldg B1; cover varies; h8pm-5am) Glitzy shows and elaborate, pricey cocktails make this a memorable night out.

ID is mandatory, so travellers will need their passports on hand.

Mugishutei

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 麦酒停; %011-512-4774; www.mugishutei.com; S9W5 Chūō-ku; h7pm-3am; bNakajima-kōen, exit 2)

At Sapporo’s original hub for craft-heads you can choose from a selection of

250 beers, including many from owner Phred Kauffman’s line of Ezo beers,

produced and bottled by Portland’s Rogue Brewery. Beer aside, we love the

off-beat vibe, from the bottle-cap mosaics to the ‘80s MTV clips played on the

TV. Warning: cover charge ¥900.

Cafe Morihiko

CAFE

(森彦; %011-622-8880; www.morihiko-coffee.com; S2W26-2-18 Chūō-ku; h10am-9pm; bTōzai line to Maruyama-kōen, exit 4)

Set in a teeny-tiny old wooden house, with red eaves and clinging ivy, this cafe

delivers big on ambience. The hand-poured coffee (¥580 to ¥700) and

homemade cakes are good, too.

3 Entertainment

Sapporo Dome

BASEBALL

(札幌ドーム; %011-850-1000, dome tour reservations 011-850-1020; www.sapporo-dome.co.jp; 1

Hitsujigaoka, Toyohira-ku; bTōhō line to Fukuzumi, exit 3)

Built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, Sapporo Dome is home to both baseball’s

Hokkaidō Nippon Ham Fighters (www.fighters.co.jp) and J-League soccer’s

Consadole Sapporo (www.consadole-sapporo.jp). The stadium switches

surfaces depending on the sport being played: the Fighters play on an artificial

surface; when Consadole has a match, a natural grass pitch is slid into the

stadium.

The Fighters in particular have extremely boisterous crowds and a trip to the

Dome is a great way to see parochial Japan in action. Check out the website for

schedules. When nothing is on, tours of the dome are held on the hour from

10am to 4pm for ¥1050; reservations necessary. It’s a 10-minute walk from the

subway.

8 Orientation

Unlike most Japanese cities, Sapporo is laid out in a Western-style grid pattern.

Centre city blocks are labelled East (東; higashi) or West (西; nishi) and North

(北; kita) or South (南; minami). Addresses are generated accordingly; so, for

example, the famous landmark Clock Tower is in the block of North 1, West 2

(Kita Ichi-jo, Nishi Ni-chōme) – or N1W2.

Ōdōri-kōen is the border between north and south; the canal-like Sōsei-gawa

(創成川) divides east and west. Sapporo TV Tower is roughly the centre point,

which makes it easy to get your bearings. South of Ōdōri is the downtown

shopping district. Susukino, the entertainment district, is located mainly

between the South 2 and South 6 blocks.

Sapporo is a very walkable city for much of the year – it gets bitterly cold in

winter. This is the time to take advantage of the chika-ho (チカホ), the

underground passageway that runs from JR Sapporo Station to the Susukino

subway station.

8 Information

MEDICAL SERVICES

Sapporo City General Hospital (市立札幌病院; %011-726-2211;

www.city.sapporo.jp/hospital; N11W13 1-1 Chūō-ku; houtpatient reception 8.45-11am & 1-3pm, emergency room 24hr; dHakodate main line to Sōen)

TOURIST INFORMATION

There is a tourist help desk in the basement of the arrivals hall at New Chitose

Airport.

Hokkaidō-Sapporo Food & Tourist Information Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;

北海道さっぽろ「食と観光」情報館; %011-213-5088; www.sapporo.travel; JR Sapporo

Station; h8.30am-8pm; dJR Sapporo, west exit) This huge info centre has maps,

timetables, brochures and pamphlets in English for Sapporo and all of

Hokkaidō. Staff speak English and are helpful. It’s located on the ground floor

of Sapporo Stellar Pl, inside the north concourse of JR Sapporo Station.

JR Information Desk ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; JR Sapporo Station; h8.30am-7pm; dJR Sapporo, west exit) English-language assistance regarding JR trains and rail passes, in the

north concourse of JR Sapporo Station.

Sapporo International Communication Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 札幌国際プ

ラザ; %011-211-3678; www.plaza-sapporo.or.jp; 3rd fl, MN Bldg, N1W3 Chūō-ku; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; W; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri, exit 16) Directly opposite the Sapporo

Clock Tower, this place is set up to cater for the needs of foreign residents and

visitors, with an extensive list of English resources and helpful, friendly staff.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

New Chitose Airport

New Chitose Airport (新千歳空港; CTS; %0123-23-0111; www.new-chitose-airport.jp) is located 45km southeast of Sapporo, in Chitose. With flights to more than 25

cities in Japan and many cities in Asia, this is where most travellers will arrive.

Rapid Airport trains (¥1070, 36 minutes) depart every 15 minutes for JR

Sapporo Station.

Frequent buses (¥1030, 70 minutes) also make the trip, stopping not just at

JR Sapporo Station but also at major hotels.

For a taxi to central Sapporo, budget about ¥14,000.

Okadama Airport

In Sapporo, Okadama Airport (丘珠空港; Okadama Kūkō; %011-785-7871;

www.okadamaairport.co.jp; Okadama-chō, Higashi-ku) runs short-haul flights to Hakodate,

Kushiri, Rishiri and Misawa (in Aomori).

Hokuto Airport Shuttle buses depart from the south side of JR Sapporo

Station (¥400, 30 minutes) and are timed to match departures. A taxi from JR

Sapporo Station should take 20 minutes (¥2500).

BUS

Highway buses tend to be cheaper than trains. Sapporo has three central bus

stations:

Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 札幌駅前バスターミナ

ル; dJR Sapporo) Sapporo’s main bus depot, beneath the Esta building on the

south side of JR Sapporo Station.

Chūō Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中央バスターミナル; Ōdōri E1; bNamboku line to Bus Center-mae, exit 2) Most buses departing from Sapporo Eki-mae

Bus Terminal also stop here, convenient for travellers staying around Ōdōri or

Susukino.

Ōdōri Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大通バスターミナル; S1E1; bNamboku line to Bus Center-mae, exit 1) Mostly for destinations in greater Sapporo.

Buses run from Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal, via Chūō Bus Terminal, to

the following destinations:

Abashiri ¥6390, six hours, eight daily

Asahikawa ¥2060, two hours, every 20 to 30 minutes

Furano ¥2260, 2½ hours, every 60 to 80 mins

Hakodate ¥4810, 5½ hours, eight daily (including one night bus)

Niseko ¥2240, three hours, departures vary by season

Noboribetsu Onsen ¥1850, two hours, hourly

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto (Hokkaidō Shinkansen station) ¥4810, five hours,

eight daily (including one night bus)

Tōya-ko Onsen ¥2780, 2¾ hours, four daily

From Ōdōri Bus Terminal, buses run to Wakkanai (¥6240, six hours, six

daily including one night bus).

TRAIN

From Sapporo Station, JR Limited Express trains run to the following

destinations:

Abashiri (Okhotsk Liner) ¥9390, 5½ hours, four daily

Asahikawa (Limited Express Lilac) ¥4290, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes

Hakodate (Hokuto Liner) ¥8310, 3½ hours, hourly

Kushiro (Super Ōzora Liner) ¥8850, four hours, six daily

Noboribetsu Onsen (Hokuto Liner & Suzuran Liner) ¥3960, 70 minutes,

hourly

Shin-Hakodate-Hakuto (Hokuto Liner) ¥8310, 3¼ hours, hourly

Wakkanai (Super Sōya Liner and Sarubetsu Liner) ¥9930, six hours, three

daily

JR Hakodate line trains run to Kutchan (for Niseko; ¥1840, two hours) via

Otaru (¥640, 45 minutes).

SAPPORO TRANSIT PASSES

Kitaca (www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global) JR Hokkaidō’s rechargeable pay-inadvance microchipped

(IC) card that can be used on trains, subways, trams and buses in any zone that accepts IC cards

(greater Sapporo and also cities like Tokyo). Enquire at JR info desks in New Chitose Airport or JR

Sapporo Station. Even better, the little flying squirrel mascot is about as cute as can be.

Sapica Rechargeable pay-in-advance IC card that covers Sapporo’s subways, city buses and trams.

Bonus: you accrue points for using the card. Get it in the subways or at other spots where tickets

are sold.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Porocle ( MAP ; ポロクル; %011-242-4696; www.porocle.jp; 24hr ¥1200, after 3pm ¥700; h7.30am-9pm) Sapporo’s flat grid is made for cycling. With a smartphone and a

passport you can access the city’s easy-to-use bike-share program, which has

30-plus kiosks around downtown. Sign up at the Hokkaidō-Sapporo Food &

Tourist Information Centre, inside the train station, or at the Grand Hotel.

BUS

Bus 88 loops around from JR Sapporo Station to the Sapporo Beer Museum,

Ōdōri-kōen and the Clock Tower; a one-day pass costs ¥750, single trips are

¥210. Catch the bus from the south exit of the train station, in front of the

Tokyū department store.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

A car is a drag in central Sapporo as traffic and parking are constant hassles;

however, some of the city’s more far-flung (but worthwhile) sights are

awkward to reach by public transport. It’s worth renting a car for a day to hit

those.

SUBWAY

Sapporo has three useful subway lines that run from 6am to midnight: the east–

west Tōzai line; the north–south Namboku line; and the curving Tōhō line.

Fares start at ¥200.

One-day passes cost ¥830 and only ¥520 on weekends (half-price for

children).

TAXI

Taxis are easy to hail. Flagfall is ¥670, which gives you 1.6km; then ¥80 per

300m (or two minutes in traffic).

TRAM

Sapporo has a cute streetcar that loops from Ōdōri down to the base of Moiwa-

yama and back (6.30am to 11.19pm). The fare is a flat ¥200.

CENTRAL HOKKAIDŌ

Given that the capital and transport hub Sapporo is here, central Hokkaidō (道

央; Dō-ō) represents the island at its most accessible – perfect for a shorter trip.

It’s got everything you’d want and expect from Hokkaidō covered: for world-

class ski slopes there is Niseko, with its legendary powder snow; for caldera

lakes and steaming onsen towns there is Shikotsu-Tōya National Park; and for

a bit of history, there’s the 19th-century port town Otaru.

8 Getting There & Around

New Chitose Airport is the most obvious gateway to central Hokkaidō. Long-

distance ferries from Honshū dock in Tomakomai, on the south-central coast of

the island.

Of all the regions in Hokkaidō, this is the easiest one in which to get around

by public transport. You can see and do more with a car, but trains and buses

will get you pretty far.

The JR Hakodate line connects Sapporo with Otaru and Niseko. The

Muroran line runs from Sapporo past New Chitose Airport to Tomakomai and

to destinations in Shikotsu-Tōya National Park. Buses fill the gaps.

Niseko ニセコ

%0136 / POP 4940

Hokkaidō is dotted with world-class ski resorts, but the reigning prince of

powder is unquestionably Niseko (ニセコ). There are four interconnected

resorts with more than 800 skiable hectares along the eastern side of the

mountain, Niseko Annupuri. Soft and light powdery snow and an annual

average snowfall of more than 15m make Niseko extremely popular with

international skiers. Many own second homes here – resulting in a diverse

dining and nightlife scene that is atypical of far-flung rural Japan. English is

spoken virtually everywhere. While it’s possible to do Niseko on a budget, be

warned that it is getting increasingly difficult, especially in winter (peak ski

season).

Spread around the eastern base of the mountain are several towns and

villages that compose Niseko ‘resort’. Most of the restaurants and bars are

clustered together in Hirafu (ひらふ), while Annupuri (アンヌプリ), Niseko

Village (ニセコビレッジ; also called Higashi-yama Onsen) and Hanazono

(花園) are much quieter and less developed. Further east are Kutchan (倶知

安) and Niseko (ニセコ) proper, towns with more permanent population

centres and less of a resort feel.

2 Activities

Niseko is making a big push to become a year-round destination. The buzz

isn’t quite there yet, but the infrastructure is building, with operators offering

rafting, kayaking and mountain-biking tours. The combination of mountains

and farmlands means Niseko is excellent for hiking and cycling, too. There are

also 25 onsen in the area, from luxurious hotel baths to mountain hideaways.

o Niseko United

SNOW SPORTS

( MAP ; ニセコユナイテッド; www.niseko.ne.jp; adult/child ¥7400/4500; h8.30am-8.30pm Nov-Apr)

Niseko United covers the four resorts on Niseko Annupuri (1308m): Annupuri,

Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono. While you can buy individual

passes for each, part of what makes Niseko so great (in addition to that famous

powder) is that you can buy a single all-mountain pass, an electronic tag that

gives you access to 18 lifts and gondolas and 60 runs.

All the resorts have terrain for all levels, though quieter Hanazono is

considered best for families. The all-mountain pass also gets you free rides on

the hourly shuttle that runs between the resorts. Eight-hour and multiday passes

are available, too.

As so many skiers and snowboarders here are from abroad, there are plenty

of English-speaking instructors and backcountry guides; rental shops (of which

there are many) also typically have a few foreign staff on hand.

Niseko takes a pretty hard stance against rope ducking. Avalanches do

happen; when conditions are deemed safe, gates to select off-piste areas are

opened.

Moiwa

SKIING

( MAP ; モイワ; %0136-59-2511; www.niseko-moiwa.jp; 448 Niseko, Niseko-chō; lift ticket ¥4300;

h8am-4pm)

Moiwa (not to be confused with Sapporo’s Moiwa) is Niseko’s ‘fifth Beatle’,

right next to Annupuri but not part of Niseko United. It’s a small resort that’s

quietly built up a loyal following for its deep powder and backcountry

opportunities. Moiwa follows Niseko’s policy of no rope-ducking – it just

doesn’t have any ropes.

Experienced skiers can ski from Moiwa over to Annupuri (if the gate is

open). As always, check the daily avalanche report (http://niseko.nadare.info).

Goshiki Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 五色温泉; %0136-58-2707; 510 Niseko, Nisekochō; ¥700; h8am-8pm May-Oct, 10am-7pm

Nov-Apr)

At the base (750m) of active volcano Iwaonupuri, Goshiki Onsen has soaring

views from the outdoor baths and sulphurrich, highly acidic (pH 2.6!) waters.

It’s attached to a deeply rustic ryokan, but most visitors just come for the baths.

You need a car to get here; some lodgings do excursions to the baths.

Niseko Circuit

HIKING

MAP

Just above Goshiki Onsen, a trail heads off into the wilderness. At the first

fork, you can opt for the 70-minute round-trip up Iwaonupuri (イワオヌプリ;

1116m) or go deeper towards the pond Ō-numa (大沼). From Ō-numa you can

carry on, completing the epic nine-hour, 16km loop that goes up and over

Nitonupuri (ニトヌプリ; 1080m) and Chisenupuri (チセヌプリ; 1134m)

before returning to Goshiki Onsen.

Pick up a map and info on trail conditions at the Goshiki Onsen Information

Centre, at the start of the trail.

Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC)

OUTDOORS

( MAP ; ニセコアドベンチャーセンター; %0136-23-2093; www.nacadventures.jp; 179-53

Yamada, Kutchan-chō; h8am-9pm)

This outfit is an innovator in Japan, following examples set in other mountain

resorts throughout the world. In winter it offers everything from ski and

snowboard lessons to snowshoe and backcountry tours with experienced

Englishspeaking guides. In summer it offers rafting, cycling, sea kayaking and

canyoning tours…plus more!

It is based in a massive purpose-built building in Hirafu with an 11m indoor

climbing wall and Jojo’s Café & Restaurant.

THE AINU LEGACY OF PLACE NAMES

While precious few people today can speak the Ainu language, the old tongue has left an indelible

print on the map of Hokkaidō. You’ll notice that many mountains are not ‘san’ or ‘yama’ (as they

are in Japanese) but ‘nupuri’ – as in Niseko Resort’s famous Annupuri (アンヌプリ・ヴィレジ;

%0136-59-2111; www.annupurivillage.com; Niseko Annupuri; chalets for 4-12 people ¥87,300-

210,400; pnW) – the Ainu word for ‘mountain’. ‘Nai’ and ‘pet’ are the words for river; Wakkanai

literally means ‘cold water river’ in Ainu. Rishiri-tō is actually redundant: both ‘tō’ (Japanese) and

‘shir’ (Ainu) mean the same thing – island.

4 Sleeping

Hirafu, followed by Annupuri, has the most accommodation options, while

Niseko Village is centred on the upmarket Hilton. Most places will provide

pick-up and drop-off for the slopes in winter, or you can take buses and shuttles

to move about. It’s strongly recommended that you book well in advance in

winter. Prices are increasing by the year, though low season remains a steal.

Eki-no-yado Hirafu

MINSHUKU

$

(駅の宿ひらふ; %080-5582-5241; www.hirafueki.com; 594-4 Hirafu, Kutchan-chō; d ¥3650-4000;

pnW)

This is Japan’s only train station minshuku (family-run guesthouse) and it is

wonderfully eccentric. It’s literally part of tiny JR Hirafu Station: to reach the

bathhouse you need to walk out onto the platform. While it’s convenient to

arrive by train, the station is not convenient for Hirafu proper; however, the

guesthouse offers ski field transfers for ¥200.

In summer, the station ‘master’ hosts barbecues on the train platform; there’s

a small kitchen, too, well set up for self-catering.

YHA Niseko Fujiyama Karimpani

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; ユースホステルカリンパニ・ニセコ藤山; %0136-44-1171; www.karimpani-

niseko.com; 336 Niseko, Niseko-chō; dm ¥2800-4900, d ¥5600-9800, breakfast/dinner ¥600/1200; piW) In an 80-year-old converted schoolhouse, former classrooms now house dorms

and concerts are held regularly in the gymnasium. Friendly owners Max and

Yūko speak excellent English and do free pick-ups and transfers to the

Annupuri slopes (a fiveminute drive away). Six rooms are Westernstyle and

two are Japanese; rates drop in the low season. Meals are first class.

Niseko Annupuri Guest House

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; ニセコアンヌプリゲストハウス; %0136-58-2084; www.annupuri-yh.com; 479-4

Niseko, Niseko-chō; dm from ¥4500; hclosed mid-Oct–early Dec; pnW)

This friendly mountain lodge, which sees many repeat customers, is

constructed entirely from hardwood and sits conveniently within a five-minute

walk of the Annupuri ski grounds. In the evenings, guests congregate in front

of the fire, swapping ski tips. Breakfast is available for ¥800.

Moiwa Lodge 834

CAPSULE HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; %050-3171-5688; www.nisekohotel-dh.com; 447-5 Niseko, Niseko-chō; capsule dm ¥7225-15,725; pnaW)

The world’s only ski-in, ski-out capsule hotel, Moiwa Lodge 834, in front of

the Moiwa lifts, is popular with powder hounds who have no patience for the

morning queues in Hirafu. The lodge has done a pretty good job tweaking the

capsule format: there’s plenty of secure space for your gear. Capsule rooms are

sex-segregated.

Buffet meals (of mostly Western food) are served in the cosy lounge, which

looks out towards the mountain. The hotel does free pick-ups from the nearest

highway bus stop at Kanronomori.

Outside the snow season, rates drop considerably, with no meals.

o AYA Niseko

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; %0136-23-1280; Yamada 195-1; r/penthouse ¥55,000/720,000; pnaW)

Not for the budget minded, the AYA Niseko is there when you need to splurge

and pamper yourself. Parents will love the kiddie playroom, and heck, they’ll

love the gym, the onsen, the art gallery, and the yoga room too. It’s a sleek,

modern, stylish spot well situated for anything Niseko offers. The restaurant on

the 1st floor is tasty too.

Hotel Niseko Alpen

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; ホテルニセコアルペン; %0136-22-1105; www.grand-hirafu.jp; 204 Aza-Yamada, Kutchanchō; d incl breakfast from ¥40,000; pnWs)

This utilitarian block is in need of an overhaul and we hope it never happens –

because this is currently the most economical ski-in, ski-out option left in

Niseko. It’s right in front of the Grand Hirafu gondola, rooms are plain but

comfortable and the breakfast buffet has a good spread. Look for package deals

that include lift tickets.

Hilton Niseko

RESORT

$$$

( MAP ; ヒルトンニセコビレッジ; %0136-44-1111; www.hiltonnisekovillage.jp; Higashiyama Onsen; d from ¥30,000; pnaiW)

The Hilton enjoys the best location of all – it is quite literally attached to the

Niseko Gondola. Spacious Western-style rooms are complemented by a whole

slew of amenities, including an onsen bath that faces Yōtei-zan, spread out

across a self-contained village.

Check the website before arriving as special deals are usually available,

which combine discounted room rates with breakfast and dinner buffets.

Conversely, prices can balloon in peak ski season to more than twice the

standard rate.

WORTH A TRIP

CLIMBING YŌTEI-ZAN

The perfect conical volcano Yōtei-zan ( MAP ; 羊蹄山) (1898m) is also known as Ezo-Fuji

because of its striking resemblance to Fuji-san. One of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains, it sits in its

own little pocket of Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, just 10km from Niseko. It’s a stunning

backdrop: the only way to miss it is if it’s hidden in cloud.

Be prepared for a big climb if you want to tackle Yōtei-zan. The most popular of four trailheads

is Yōtei-zan tozan-guchi (羊蹄山登山口), south of Kutchan near JR Hirafu Station at 350m. Do

your maths and you’ll calculate that you are in for more than 1500m of vertical climb. Most people

climb and descend in a day – get an early start and allow six to nine hours return, depending on

how fit you are. Be mentally and physically prepared – the weather can change quickly on this

exposed volcano, especially above the 1600m tree line. Make sure you have enough food and

drink. There is an emergency hut at 1800m.

The upper reaches of Yōtei-zan are covered in alpine flowers during the summer. From the peak,

the Sea of Japan, the Pacific Ocean and Tōya-ko are all visible – unless, of course, you are inside a

cloud!

If you want to attempt this by public transport, you have to catch the 6.40am bus (¥300, 11

minutes, Monday to Saturday) from JR Kutchan Station; the last return bus is at 8.07pm. Hiking

season is roughly mid-June through mid-October.

Yōtei-zan | CHARLIE WOOD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Eating & Drinking

The slopes have plenty of pizza, ramen and other snacks. After hours, Hirafu

has an international spread of restaurants and buzzes during ski season (many

places shut in the low season). Year-round, Kutchan town has lots of izakaya,

especially on Miyako-dōri; there’s a supermarket next to JR Kutchan Station.

Sobadokoro Rakuichi

SOBA

$

( MAP ; そば処 楽一; %0136-58-3170; www.rakuichisoba.com; 431 Niseko, Niseko-chō; lunch from

¥900; dinner course ¥8000; hlunch from 11.30am, dinner from 5pm Fri-Wed; p)

Niseko’s most famous noodle shop is also famously hard to find, though its

secluded location (accessed via a wooden boardwalk) is a big part of the

appeal. The other part is watching chef Tatsuri Rai behind the counter hand-

make the soba (buckwheat noodles) you just ordered. Simple is best: go for the

namako uchi seiro (生粉打ちせいろ; fresh-made cold noodles) – just ¥900.

Rakuichi is known to draw huge lines for the first lunch seating at 11.30am

(it stops serving lunch when it runs out). So unless you’re willing to commit a

lot of time, this is one for the low season. Dinner is reservations only, but lunch

is better. It’s off the access road to Annupuri; look for the banner. No children

under 12.

Graubunden

CAFE

$

( MAP ; グラウビュンデン; %0136-23-3371; www.graubunden.jp; 132-26 Yamada, Kutchan-chō; breakfast mains ¥600-1000, lunch mains ¥1000-1200; h8am-7pm Fri-Wed; pWv)

This is Niseko’s original hang-out spot in Hirafu East Village, a standby with

season regulars and long-time expats for its sandwiches, omelettes and cakes.

Service could be friendlier, especially at busy times, but the food is tasty

enough to keep people coming back for more.

Jojo’s Café & Restaurant

CAFE

$

( MAP ; ジョジョズカフェ; %0136-23-2220; www.nacadventures.jp; 179-53 Yamada, Kutchanchō; mains from ¥1080; h9.30am-10pm, to 5pm Jun-Sep; pWc)

Atop the Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC), Jojo’s offers typical casual fare,

like burgers, filling salads, wraps and nachos. The terrace has a spot-on view of

Yōtei-zan and there’s a play area for kids in winter. Tasty pastries round out the

offerings. Yum!

o Musu Bar + Bistro

BISTRO

$$

( MAP ; Mūsu バー+ビストロ; %0136-21-7002; www.musuniseko.com; 190-13 Yamada; mains

¥1000-1600; h7.30am-10pm)

Musu offers great food, sweet service, and a lovely airy dining experience, plus

easily the best cocktail menu in Niseko, with treats like the Yuzu Negroni

(¥1400) or the Climber’s Club (¥1400), the latter using a shiitake-mushroom-

infused brandy. Breakfasts, whether a flaky croissant with homemade jelly or a

yoghurt and fruit plate, hit the spot.

Niseko Loft Club

BARBECUE

$$

( MAP ; ニセコロフト倶楽部; %0136-44-2883; www.loftclub1989.com; 397-5 Sōga, Niseko-

chō; per 300g ¥1900; h5-11pm; p)

Down the road from the Annupuri slopes, Loft Club glitters with fairy lights

and the warm, glowing promise of a filling meal washed down with beer and

lively conversation. The speciality here is yakiniku (grill-it-yourself meat), but

rather than just the usual beef and pork, there’s lamb and venison on the menu,

too. Dishes are to share.

Niseko Pizza

ITALIAN

$$

( MAP ; ニセコピザ; %0136-55-5553; www.nisekopizza.jp; 167-3 Yamada, Kutchan-chō; pizzas from ¥2100; h11am-11pm)

This authentic family-run pizzeria headed by the affable Cezar does thin-crust,

wood-fired pizzas with a mouthwatering variety of toppings (plus pastas and

steaks). Bonus: it delivers. In central Hirafu, downhill from the gondola;

reduced hours low season.

Ginger

AMERICAN

$$

( MAP ; %0136-55-6293; www.ginger.restaurant; AYA Niseko 1F, Aza Yamada 195-1; mains ¥2200-3800; h7.30am-10pm; p)

A newcomer to the Niseko scene, Ginger offers American-meets- Izakaya

cuisine, with Japanese takes on burgers, steaks, salads, and so on. The orange-

and-black decor and light wood panels make it feel more like a sushi

restaurant, despite the burgers and other Western mains.

Sprout

CAFE

(スプラウト; %0136-55-5161; www.sprout-project.com; N1W3-10, Kutchan-chō; coffee from ¥400; h8am-8pm; W)

This popular hang-out run by a former outdoor guide serves Niseko’s best

coffee. It’s 100m up the road from JR Kutchan Station, decked out like a very

cool campsite. There’s a huge library of outdoor books and magazines (in

Japanese) here, too.

DON’T MISS

LOCAL SPECIALITY: JINGISUKAN

This dish of charcoal-grilled mutton is the unofficial symbol of Hokkaidō, a legacy of the island’s

short-lived 19th-century sheep-rearing program. Its name – a Japanese rendering of Genghis Khan

– comes from the unique shape of the cast-iron hotplate used to grill the meat, thought to resemble

the warlord’s helmet. The meat is grilled on the peak of the hotplate, allowing the juices to run

down the sides to the onions and leeks sizzling on the brim. Jingisukan (ジンギスカン) is served

all over the island, though especially in the heartland, and is best accompanied by copious amounts

of beer.

8 Information

Goshiki Onsen Information Centre ( MAP ; 五色温泉インフォメーションセ

ンター; %0136-59-2200; 510 Niseko, Niseko-chō; h8am-5pm Jun-Oct) English hiking maps

and information on the latest weather and trail conditions. Just above Goshiki

Onsen, at the start of the hiking trail.

Hirafu Welcome Centre ( MAP ; ひらふウエルカムセンター; %0136-22-0109;

www.grand-hirafu.jp; 204 Yamada, Kutchan-chō; h8.30am-9pm) Near the Hirafu gondola (and

where direct buses to/from New Chitose Airport originate and terminate), with

English-language information. Open only during the snow season.

Information Centre Plat (くっちゃんまちの駅ぷらっと; %0136-55-5372;

www.niseko.co.jp; Kita 1 Nishi 2, Kutchan-chō; h9am-6pm; W) Lots of English brochures and maps (for Niseko and beyond), 200m down the street outside JR Kutchan

Station. There’s a smaller information centre (open 9am to 6pm) in the train

station.

Niseko Tourist Information (ニセコ観光案内所; %0136-21-2551; www.niseko-ta.jp;

41-5 Aza Kabayama; h8am-5pm; W) At JR Niseko Station, with pamphlets, maps, bus

timetables; can help with bookings. It also has a centre at the View Plaza

Michi-no-Eki on Rte 66 heading into town.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

During the ski season, Chūō Bus coaches run from Sapporo Eki-mae Bus

Terminal (¥2240/4000 one-way/return, three hours) and New Chitose Airport

(one-way/return ¥2600/4500, 3¾ hours) to Niseko; travel times are dependent

on weather conditions. Drop-off points include the Welcome Centre in Hirafu,

the Hilton and Annupuri. Reservations are necessary, and it’s recommended

that you book well ahead of your departure date.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Scenic Rte 5 winds from Sapporo to Otaru around the coast, and then cuts

inland through the mountains down to Niseko. Having a car will make it easier

to move between the various ski slopes, though you’ll need to drive with

extreme caution. In summer (low season), public transport services drop off,

which provides more incentive to pick up a car in Sapporo or at New Chitose

Airport. There are also outlets of major car-rental companies in Hirafu.

TRAIN

The JR Hakodate line runs from Sapporo to Kutchan (¥1840, 2½ hours), Hirafu

(¥1840, 3½ hours) and Niseko (¥2160, three hours) stations. You will need to

transfer in Otaru, where you can also get trains directly to New Chitose

Airport.

Note that JR Hirafu Station is actually inconvenient for central Hirafu,

unless you’ve arranged for pickup.

WORTH A TRIP

SKIING IN RUSUTSU

Rusutsu gets snow that almost rivals Niseko’s and Rusutsu Resort ( MAP ; ルスツリゾート;

%0136-46-3331; www.hokkaido-rusutsu.com; 13 Izumi-kawa, Rusutsu; lift tickets adult/child

¥5900/3000, after 4pm ¥2600/1300; h9am-9pm Nov-Apr) has both well-groomed trails and

fantastic tree runs. It caters equally to skiers and snowboarders of all levels, with 18 lifts, more

than three dozen runs, a half-pipe and numerous off-piste options. It’s less developed and thus

usually less crowded than Niseko, and makes for a good day trip.

You can also go all in and stay at Rusutsu Resort Hotel ( MAP ; ルスツリゾートホテル;

%0136-46-3331; www.hokkaido-rusutsu.com; 13 Izumi-kawa, Rusutsu; d with breakfast from

¥32,500; pnaW), a self-contained facility, with restaurants and a very kitschy amusement park. It’s

great for families (and also a beacon for tour groups). Discounted packages including room, lift

ticket and meal plan are often available. Note that there are few amenities outside the resort.

Rusutsu is only a 20- to 30-minute drive away from Niseko, off Rte 230, on the way to Tōya-ko.

Various operators offer Rusutsu day trips if you don’t have your own wheels.

8 Getting Around

BUS

Buses (¥300, 15 minutes) run irregularly (and infrequently in summer) between

JR Kutchan Station and the ski villages; it’s better to arrange pickup.

During snow season, Niseko United Shuttle (www.niseko.ne.jp) runs a

service (roughly hourly 8am to 11pm) between Hirafu, Niseko Village and

Annupuri (free for all-mountain pass holders). From 5pm to 11pm, the shuttle

route extends to JR Kutchan Station, giving you more dining options. Pick up a

schedule from any of the tourist information centres.

TAXI

Niseko suffers from a chronic taxi shortage during the ski season, as most are

booked up in advance. Most likely your lodging will offer to shuttle you

around (for a fee), which is usually cheaper than taxis and more reliable. If you

do need to use a taxi, have your accommodation call ahead for you.

Otaru 小樽

%0134 / POP 131,700

Otaru (小樽) was the financial centre of Hokkaidō – a bustling center of trade

with Russia and China – in the early 20th century. The city’s elite invested

some of those riches in the construction of grand, Westernstyle buildings of

stone and brick – the style of the time – many of which line the town’s central

canal. This exotic (for Japan) atmosphere makes Otaru very popular with

domestic visitors.

While the town is definitely touristy, with spots for selfie-taking and bus

tours, it’s rich history, many preserved buildings, and overall uniqueness evoke

a Hokkaidō of yesteryear that’s well worth seeing, if only as a day trip out of

Sapporo. Weekenders will find there’s plenty to do, from museums to souvenir

stores to restaurants and bars.

Otaru

1 Top Sights

1 Otaru Canal

C2

1 Sights

2 Nichigin-dōri

C3

3 Otaru General Museum

C1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Otaru Canal Cruise

C1

5 Eating

5 Kita-no Aisukurīmu-ya-san

C2

6 Otaru Sushi-kō

C1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

7 ISO

B1

1 Sights

o Otaru Canal

CANAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小樽運河) Historic Otaru canal is lined with warehouses from the late 19th and early 20th

centuries. This was a time when traditional Japanese architecture was infused

with Western-style building techniques, so some of the buildings are quite

interesting. Most have been restored and now house museums and cafes.

Unfortunately the canal itself is half-buried by a major thoroughfare, despite

the best lobbying efforts of local preservationists.

Nishin Goten

MUSEUM

(鰊御殿; %0134-22-1038; 3-228 Shukutsu; ¥300; h9am-5pm; gOtaru Aquarium; Suizoukukan)

One of Otaru’s must-see spots, this old herring house, once at the sea’s edge,

has been moved to a gorgeous bluff and has a number of artefacts and photos

depicting the herring industry in its heyday. Most of it is in Japanese, but

there’s enough there to impress English-speaking visitors.

Otaru General Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小樽市総合博物館; %0134-22-1258; 2-1-20 Ironai; adult/child ¥300/free; h9.30am-5pm)

This annexe of the Otaru Museum, known as the Ungakan (運河館), is housed

in a restored warehouse dating from 1893 near the canal. It does a good job of

illustrating (with an English-language supplement) Otaru’s rise, thanks to the

herring industry, its peak in the early 20th century and the city’s subsequent

decline.

Nichigin-dōri

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日銀通り) Once known as the ‘Wall Street of the North’, Nichigin-dōri is lined with

elegant buildings that speak to Otaru’s past life as a prominent financial centre.

2 Activities

Otaru Canal Cruise

CRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0134-31-1733; www.otaru.cc; 5-4 Minato-machi; adult/child day cruise

¥1500/500, night cruise ¥1800/500; h9am-9pm)

The view of the canal is prettiest from this vantage point on the water. Cruises

depart from Chūō-bashi and last 40 minutes; though recommended, no advance

booking is necessary.

4 Sleeping

Otaru is an easy day trip from Sapporo, though it also works as a convenient

stopover on the way to Niseko. There are plenty of places to stay here, the best

(and priciest) of which have rooms overlooking the bay.

o Otarunai Backpackers’ Hostel Morinoki

HOSTEL

$

(おたるないバックパッカーズホステル杜の樹; %0134-23-2175; https://otaru-

backpackers.com; 4-15 Aioi; dm ¥3000; pniW)

While the sights of Otaru can be done in a day, if you’re looking for

somewhere to hole up for a few, this is a fantastic choice. Morinoki is an old,

sprawling house perched on a stone embankment. Accommodation is in fairly

simple mixed-gender dormitories, but there are kitchen and laundry facilities,

bilingual staff and super-comfy lounging areas.

The hostel is about a 15-minute walk from JR Otaru Station, and can be a

little tricky to find.

o Ginrinsō

RYOKAN

$$$

(銀鱗荘; %0134-54-7010; www.ginrinsou.com; 1-1 Sakura; s/d incl 2 meals from ¥45,510/69,420;

paW)

When Ginrinsō was constructed in 1873 it was among the most lavish of the

herring estates. In 1938 it was relocated to a bluff overlooking Ishikari Bay and

reborn as a (very) high-end ryokan. The sticker shock is real, but so is the

beauty of this place, hewn of cedar and stone, with open-air natural hot springs

facing the waters.

DON’T MISS

BEST HIKES

A Rishiri-zan

A Shiretoko Traverse

A Rebun-tō Traverse

A Yōtei-zan

A Asahi-dake

5 Eating & Drinking

o Kita-no Aisukurīmu-ya-san

ICE CREAM

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 北のアイスクリーム屋さん; %0134-23-8983; 1-2-18 Ironai; ice cream from ¥300; h9.30am-6pm)

Housed in a converted warehouse that was built in 1892, just back from the

canal, this legendary Otaru ice-cream parlour scoops up some seriously

‘special’ ice cream flavours, such as wasabi, beer, and natto. The ika-sumi

(squid ink) is actually just mildly sweet. Melon, a more ice-cream friendly

flavour, is divine.

Otaru Sushi-kō

SUSHI

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 小樽 すし耕; %0134-21-5678; www.denshiparts.co.jp/sushikou; 2-2-6

Ironai; sushi sets ¥2000-3800; hnoon-9pm Thu-Tue)

Come here for excellent sushi sets and kaisen-don (bowls of rice topped with

sashimi) featuring Hokkaidō specialities such as sake (salmon), ikura (salmon

roe), uni (sea urchin) and kani (crab). Note that it often closes for a few hours

in the afternoon and fills up fast at dinner, so reservations are recommended.

ISO

BAR

( MAP ; %0134-31-1888; www.otaruiso.jp; 2-2-14 Ironai; drinks from ¥800; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Thu-Tue)

In a building with literary history sits ISO, one of the few bars Otaru offers.

Dark leather seats, wood and brick walls, mellow bar staff, soft samba music in

the background – it’s a perfect spot to unwind with a whisky or cocktail after a

hard day of sightseeing. The food is so-so, but the drinks are just fine.

8 Information

Canal Plaza Tourist Information Centre (運河プラザ観光案内所; %0134-33-

1661; 2-1-20 Ironai; h9am-6pm) Housed in Otaru’s oldest warehouse, with lots of

pamphlets and brochures in English for Otaru and surrounding areas.

Otaru Station Tourist Information Centre (小樽駅観光案内所; %0134-29-1333;

h9am-6pm) If you’re arriving by train, pick up an English map at this kiosk in the

station.

8 Getting There & Away

BOAT

Shin-Nihonkai Ferry (新日本海フェリー; %0134-22-6191; www.snf.jp; 7-2 Chikkō)

runs services down the Sea of Japan coast, connecting Otaru to Niigata (from

¥6680, 18 hours) and Maizuru (Kyoto Prefecture; from ¥9970, 20 hours).

Prices and departures are seasonal, but the latest information is posted in

English on the website.

When ferries are running, buses (¥220, 30 minutes) depart from stop 4 in

front of JR Otaru Station for the ferry terminal at 8.59am, 5.29pm (Sundays

only) and 9pm, to coincide with ferry departures. From the ferry terminal,

buses depart at 9.30pm for Otaru.

TRAIN

Twice-hourly kaisoku (rapid) trains on the JR Hakodate line connect Otaru and

Sapporo (¥1160, 30 minutes); hourly local trains take 45 minutes (¥640). Less

frequent trains on the same line continue to Kutchan (¥1070, 1¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Bikes are a great way to see more of the town; Kitarin (きたりん; %070-5605-

2926; www.kitarin.info; 2-22 Inaho; 2 hours ¥900; h9am-6.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, from 6.30am Sun Apr-Nov, 9am-6.30pm daily, from 6.30am Sun Jul-Sep) is one of several bike rental shops

near Otaru Station.

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park 笏洞爺国立公園

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park (支笏洞爺国立公園; 993 sq km) is an oddly

non-contiguous park, with pockets of wilderness carved out of a large area.

Highlights include two caldera lakes, Shikotsu-ko and Tōya-ko, two popular

hot spring towns, Jōzankei and Noboribetsu, and numerous mountains, the

most impressive of which is Yōtei-zan, also known as Ezo-Fuji, because it

resembles famous Mt Fuji. Within easy striking distance of Sapporo, to the

south and southwest, the park is an attractive getaway with much to offer.

Niseko & Shikotsu-Tōya National Park

1 Sights

1 Kuttara-ko

E5

2 Usu-zan

B5

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

3 Goshiki Onsen

A6

4 Marukoma Onsen

E3

5 Moiwa

A7

Niseko Adventure Centre \(NAC\)

(see 23)

6 Niseko Circuit

A6

7 Niseko United

A6

8 Rusutsu Resort

B3

9 Tarumae-zan

F3

10 Yōtei-zan

B2

4 Sleeping

11 Annupuri Village

A7

12 AYA Niseko

B6

13 Bifue Campsite

E3

14 Hilton Niseko

B7

15 Hotel Niseko Alpen

B6

16 Log Bear

F3

17 Moiwa Lodge 834

A7

18 Niseko Annupuri Guest House

A7

19 Rusutsu Resort Hotel

C3

20 YHA Niseko Fujiyama Karimpani

A7

5 Eating

21 Ginger

B6

22 Graubunden

B6

23 Jojo’s Café & Restaurant

B6

24 Musu Bar \+ Bistro

B6

25 Niseko Loft Club

A7

Niseko Pizza

(see 24)

26 Sobadokoro Rakuichi

A7

8 Information

27 Goshiki Onsen Information Centre

A6

28 Hirafu Welcome Centre

B6

Shikotsu-ko Visitor Centre

(see 16)

8 Getting There & Around

As Shikotsu-Tōya National Park is spread out, public transport between the

different sections of the park is difficult; only Noboribetsu and Tōya-ko have a

direct bus link. A car is best if you want to explore the whole area.

BUS

Buses depart from Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal for:

Jōzankei ¥770, one hour, five daily

Noboribetsu Onsen ¥1950, 100 minutes, once daily

Tōya-ko Onsen ¥2780, 2¾ hours, once daily

There are also direct buses from New Chitose Airport to Noboribetsu Onsen

(¥1370, one hour). The bus terminals for Noboribetsu Onsen and Tōya-ko

Onsen are in town.

There is no public transport to Shikotsu-ko, but if you pick up a car from

New Chitose Airport the lake is only a 25km drive.

TRAIN

Noboribetsu and Tōya have train stations. Limited-express trains run 10 times

daily on the JR Muroran line from Sapporo to Noboribetsu Station (¥2160, 1¼

hours) and Tōya Station (¥3240, two hours). The JR Muroran line also

connects Tōya Station (¥5490, two hours) and Noboribetsu Station (¥3990, 2½

hours) with Hakodate. The fare for the 40-minute journey between Noboribetsu

and Tōya is ¥2720. From the train stations, a local bus is required to get into

town.

Jōzankei

%011 / POP 1150

Jōzankei (定山渓) sits along the Toyohiragawa, deep in a gorge. It’s the closest

major onsen town to Sapporo and an easy escape for those after some R&R.

The resort is especially pretty (and popular) in autumn, when the leaves change

colour – a sight that can be viewed from many an outdoor bath. Only an hour’s

bus or car ride from Sapporo, Jōzankei works well as a day trip. Most hotels

and ryokan allow nonguests to use their onsen baths for a fee (¥500 to ¥1500).

There’s also Hōheikyō further up the road, often voted one of Hokkaidō’s best

onsen.

DON’T MISS

BEST ONSEN

A Hōheikyō

A Onsen Tengoku

A Goshiki Onsen

A Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen

A Fukiage Roten-no-yu

1 Sights & Activities

Ainu Culture Promotion Centre

CULTURAL CENTRE

(札幌ピリカコタン, Sapporo Pirka Kotan; %011-596-5961; www.city.sapporo.jp/shimin/pirka-

kotan/en; 27 Kogane-yu, Minami-ku; adult/child ¥200/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; p)

Unlike other museums, where artefacts are kept behind glass, exhibitions here

consist of replicas, handmade by members of Sapporo’s Ainu community using

their own family heirlooms as models. As a result, you can touch everything on

display, feeling, for example, the linen-like softness of textiles made from tree

bark. The strangely shaped centre is in Kogane-yu, 3km east of Jōzankei.

The Sapporo–Jōzankei bus stops at Kogane-yu (¥650, 50 minutes); the

museum is a short walk up from the bus stop.

Iwato Kannon-dō

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(岩戸観音堂; %011-598-2012; 3 Jōzankei Onsenhigashi; h7am-8pm)

This small temple fronts a 120m-long cave that has 33 statues of Kannon, the

Buddhist deity of compassion, and is dedicated to road workers who lost their

lives constructing roads in the area. There are also lovely old photographs of

Jōzankei on display and, next door, a free ashi-yu (foot bath).

o Hōheikyō

ONSEN

(豊平峡; %011-598-2410; www.hoheikyo.co.jp; 608 Jōzankei; adult/child ¥1000/500; h10am-10.30pm)

Home to Hokkaidō’s largest outdoor bath, Hōheikyō is a stunner, set above

town on the gorge’s forested slope. The whole rambling structure is shack-like,

which just adds to the appeal of having stumbled upon something great. The

door curtains indicating which baths are for men and which are for women are

swapped daily. These waters purportedly ideal for improving women’s skin.

Oddly enough, there’s an Indian restaurant on the ground floor. The

Sapporo–Jōzankei bus continues on to Hōheikyō (¥840, 1¼ hours), its final

stop.

8 Information

Tourist Information Centre (%011-598-2012; www.jozankei.jp; 3-225 Jōzankei Onsen-

higashi; h9am-5pm) Right on Rte 230, the main road through the valley, with

English brochures and maps, an English-speaker, and a small museum with

photos of Jōzankei in the booming years of days gone by.

Shikotsu-ko 支笏湖

Directly south of Sapporo and surrounded by soaring volcanoes, Shikotsu-ko

(支笏湖) is the second-deepest lake in Japan and renowned for its clear water.

While it is 250m above sea level, its deepest spot is 363m, 113m below sea

level. You’ll need your own wheels to get here, but it’s a superb spot for

independent exploration and excellent for campers.

Shikotsu-ko Onsen (支笏湖温泉), on the eastern side of the lake, is the only

town. This compact little resort village has some nice short walks, including a

nature trail for birdwatchers. Sightseeing boats head out onto the lake and there

are rental bicycles, boats and canoes.

2 Activities

Marukoma Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 丸駒温泉; %0123-25-2341; www.marukoma.co.jp; 7 Poropinai, Chitose; ¥1000; h10am-3pm)

On the surface, Marukoma Onsen is a typical ageing resort hotel, but the

concrete facade hides a fantastic collection of baths – which are open to day

trippers. The large rotemburo (outdoor bath) looks right over Shikotsu-ko.

The waters, high in sodium and calcium, are said to be good for fatigue.

Shampoo etc is provided; bring your own towel.

Tarumae-zan

HIKING

( MAP ; 樽前山)

On the southern side of the lake is Tarumae-zan (1041m), an active volcano

that is the area’s most popular hike. The crater itself is usually closed – it has a

still-smoking lava dome – but you can reach and go around the rim from the

seventh station (650m; only accessible by private car, off Rte 141). Allow 1½

hours for the return hike to the rim.

From the same trailhead you can also climb Fuppushi-dake (風不死岳;

1102m) in five to six hours return, which offers excellent views of the lake and

park. Locals suggest a bear bell is essential for this hike.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are very few places to eat here and they all close by 5pm or 6pm. Either

secure meals at your lodging or pack food.

Bifue Campsite

CAMPGROUND

$

( MAP ; 美笛キャンプ場; %090-5987-1284; Bifue, Chitose; adult/child ¥1000/500; hearly May–

mid-Oct)

On a sandy bit on the lake’s west shore among trees, this is the nicer of

Shikotsuko’s two campgrounds. There are showers and cooking facilities; four-

person tent rentals are available for ¥1500. Accessible only by car.

Log Bear

MINSHUKU

$$

( MAP ; ログベアー; %0123-25-2738; http://logbear.moto-nari.com; Shikotsu-ko Onsen, Chitose; per person incl breakfast ¥5500; W)

Log Bear is right in the middle of Shikotsu-ko Onsen, and is run by a real

character called Robin. There are only two simple rooms: one twin and one

quad. On the ground floor is a coffee shop (9am to 10pm), where breakfast is

served along with the town’s best coffee.

8 Information

Shikotsu-ko Visitor Centre ( MAP ; 支笏湖ビジターセンター; %0123-25-2404;

www.shikotsukovc.sakura.ne.jp; Shikotsu-ko Onsen; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Nov, 9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Dec-Mar) Before heading up any trails, check for closures and bear sightings on

the map here. Staff are helpful and also rent out bicycles for ¥500 per day (9am

to 5pm, mid-April to November).

Noboribetsu Onsen 登別温泉

%0143 / POP 49,500

Noboribetsu Onsen (登別温泉) is a serious onsen: you can smell the sulphur

from miles away. While the town is small, there are countless springs here,

sending up mineralrich waters. The baths received great fame when the town

was designated as a health resort for injured soldiers following the 1904–05

Russo-Japanese War and remain Hokkaidō’s most famous onsen today.

The source of the waters is Jigoku-dani, a hissing, steaming volcanic pit

above town. According to legend, this hellish landscape is home to the oni

(demon) Yukujin. Don’t worry: he’s kind and bestows luck. You’ll find statues

of him around town.

1 Sights & Activities

You can have a bath at just about all of the hotels without staying, with prices

ranging from ¥400 all the way up to ¥2000. The Noboribetsu Gateway Center

has a higaeri-onsen (day bathing) cheat sheet in English that includes opening

hours and prices.

Jigoku-dani

HOT SPRINGS

(地獄谷) F

A short walk uphill from Noboribetsu town reveals what may await us in the

afterlife: sulphurous gases, hissing vents and seemingly blood-stained rocks.

Jigoku-dani, which literally means ‘Hell Valley’, is part of the smoking crater

of volcanic Kuttara-san. A wooden boardwalk leads out to a boiling geyser.

There are also a number of short hiking trails. In about 30 minutes you can

walk out to Ōyu-numa (大湯沼), a steaming lake fed by hot springs; another 15

minutes will take you to the Ōyu-numa Natural Footbath (大湯沼天然足湯),

where the hot spring water comes up a perfect 42°C.

Kuttara-ko

LAKE

( MAP ; 倶多楽湖; クッタラコ)

If you have your own wheels, head up through town past Jigoku-dani on Rte

350 as it becomes a narrow mountain road. After about 4km you’ll reach a

lookout point for Kuttara-ko. This circular volcanic caldera lake is remarkable

for two things: there’s not a single river flowing into or out of it and it has been

left almost completely untouched by human hands. You can’t drive any further,

as traffic has been cut off to protect the lake.

o Onsen Tengoku

ONSEN

(温泉天国; %0143-84-2111; www.takimotokan.co.jp; Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan, 55 Noboribetsu Onsenchō; ¥2000, after 4pm ¥1500; h9am-6pm)

The bathhouse attached to the Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan hotel deserves singling

out because it is truly spectacular, an ‘onsen heaven’ ( tengoku means

‘heaven’). The sprawling complex, awash in pastel tiles, fountains and mirrors,

has more variety than any others here, with seven different springs (all

purportedly good for something) and several outdoor baths.

4 Sleeping & Eating

With its compact layout and decent bus links, Noboribetsu is the best place to

base yourself in Shikotsu-Tōya National Park if you’re getting around by

public transport. There are about 10 hotels here, all with onsen baths.

There is a little more life here after dark than in most rural onsen towns, with

a handful of ramen shops and convenience stores lining Gokuraku-dōri, the

(small, walkable) main drag.

Shōkōin

MINSHUKU

$

(聖光院; %0143-84-2359; www.syoukouin.wixsite.com/syukubokannonji; 119-1 Noboribetsu Onsenchō; per person ¥3500; pW)

Not many temples look like an office building, but this one does! The entrance

is on the ground floor, the temple rooms are on floor two, and the priest’s wife

runs a minshuku on floor three, with small but well-kept tatami rooms. The

shared bath, which can be used privately and is open 24 hours, has onsen water.

The temple is also known locally as Kannon-ji (観音寺). Morning prayers

(if you like) are at 8am.

Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan

HOTEL

$$$

(第一滝本館; %0143-84-2111; www.takimotokan.co.jp; 55 Noboribetsu Onsen-chō; s/d with 2 meals

incl ¥18,910/24,940; paW)

This sprawling onsen hotel, with its escalators and kiosks and constant buzz,

feels a bit like a gaily decorated airport terminal. That’s not meant to be

critical: with 24-hour complimentary use of the excellent bathhouse, Onsen

Tengoku, this is a fine place to stay. Go for the Japanese-style rooms (the

Western rooms are rather dowdy). Meals are served buffet-style.

Note that wi-fi is only available in the Honkan (main wing) and Minami-kan

(south wing).

Aji no Daiō

RAMEN

$

(味の大王; %0143-84-2415; 29-9 Noboribetsu Onsen-chō; ramen ¥800-1150; h11.30am-3pm & 9pm-

midnight, closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Tue of the month)

Noboribetsu’s landmark ramen shop serves up fiery red ‘jigokudani’ noodles

that would make the local oni (devils) proud. Entry level is a totally

manageable kick; you can add ¥50 to step it up a notch, all the way to 10.

(Warning: there are far more celebrity signings on the walls here than photos of

customers who have successfully finished level 10 bowls.)

8 Information

Noboribetsu Gateway Center (登別ゲートウェイセンター; %0143-84-2200; 26

Noboribetsu Onsen-chō; h8.30am-6pm) Part of the Noboribetsu Onsen bus terminal,

with bus schedules, English maps and luggage storage (¥500 per day).

Noboribetsu Park Service Centre (登別パークサービスセンター; %0143-84-

3141; www.noboribetsu-spa.jp; Noboribetsu Onsen-chō; h8am-5pm) English brochures and hiking maps, at the entrance to Jigoku-dani.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent buses (¥340, 18 minutes) connect JR Noboribetsu Station with

Noboribetsu Onsen bus terminal, at the southern end of town; a taxi ride

between the train station and town should cost ¥2200.

Tōya-ko 洞爺湖

At the southwestern side of Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, Tōya-ko (洞爺湖) is

an almost classically round caldera lake with a large island (Naka-jima) sitting

in the middle. What sets it apart is its truly active volcano, Usu-zan (有珠山;

733m), which has erupted four times since 1910, most recently in 2000.

Usu-zan is a mixed blessing: residents know that it will erupt again, covering

their town in ash, and possibly rock; however, it was the 1910 eruption that led

to the discovery of hot springs here and the development of Tōya-ko Onsen (洞

爺湖温泉), the small resort on the lake’s southern shore.

1 Sights & Activities

Tōya-ko Onsen has free hand baths and foot baths throughout town (think of it

as an onsen treasure hunt!) and many hotels’ baths can be used during the day

(¥500 to ¥1500). There’s a fireworks display on the lake every night from April

to October at 8.45pm, and paddle steamers running lake cruises. The 50km

circumference of the lake can be rounded by car or bicycle.

Volcano Science Museum

MUSEUM

(火山科学館; %0142-75-2555; www.toyako-vc.jp; 142-5 Tōya-ko Onsen; adult/child ¥600/300;

h9am-5pm; p)

The eruptions at Uzu-san were among the first to be recorded by modern

means (and work here significantly advanced science in early detection). Here

you can see video footage of eruptions in action, and before and after photos

that clearly show new land masses forming.

The museum is part of the Tōya-ko Visitor Centre.

Usu-zan

MOUNTAIN

( MAP ; 有珠山; %0142-74-2401; www.wakasaresort.com; 184-5 Shōwa Shin-zan, Sōbetsu-chō; ropeway adult/child return ¥1600/800; h9am-4pm)

Here is a rare chance to bear witness to modern mountain-making: Shōwa

Shin-zan (昭和新山; 398m) – whose name means ‘the new mountain of the

Shōwa period’ – arose from a wheat field following the 1943 eruption of Usu-

zan. The Usu-zan Ropeway runs up to a viewing platform for Shōwa Shin-

zan, with Tōya-ko behind it.

From the observation deck a trail heads out on a 90-minute circuit (open

May to October) around the outer rim of Usu-zan, with views of Tōya-ko and

Yōtei-zan. Buses (one way/round trip ¥340/620, 10.10am, 12.45pm, 1.40pm

and 3.50pm) run four times a day from the Tōya-ko Onsen bus terminal to the

ropeway. A taxi should cost ¥1800; all the way from JR Tōya-ko Station,

¥3000.

4 Sleeping & Eating

In addition to some pricier resorts, Tōya-ko Onsen has quite a few budget

ryokan.

Though many restaurants only open for lunch in Tōya-ko Onsen, there are

some izakaya and ramen shops that stay open well into the evening.

Daiwa Ryokan

RYOKAN

$$

(大和旅館; %0142-75-2415; www.daiwa-ryokan.jp; 105 Tōya-ko Onsen; s/d from ¥5200/9200; pW) Daiwa Ryokan is a simple, homely budget ryokan with character; adopting an

early Shōwa (1926–89) theme, it’s strewn with old knick-knacks and there’s a

hand onsen outside. The owners are friendly, the bath is 100% natural water

and there’s a small garden. Nonguests can use the onsen here for ¥500.

Wifi’s in the lobby only.

Boyotei

JAPANESE

$$

(望羊蹄; %0142-75-2311; www.boyotei.com; 36-12 Tōyako Onsen; mains ¥1100-2000; h11am-3pm

& 5-8.30pm)

Festooned with a flower garden outside and romantic and cosy inside, Boyotei

is a treat just five minutes’ walk from the station. Hamburger-steaks, gratins,

and other Japanese-Western food is on the menu, but it’s the friendly service

and ambience that really makes this place stand out.

8 Information

Tōya-ko Tourist Information Centre (洞爺湖観光情報センター; %0142-75-

2446; www.laketoya.com; 142 Tōya-ko Onsen; h9am-5pm; W) Inside the Tōya-ko Onsen bus

terminal, with maps, pamphlets and bus schedules in English.

Tōya-ko Visitor Centre (洞爺湖ビジターセンター; %0142-75-2555; www.toyako-

vc.jp; 142-5 Tōya-ko Onsen; h9am-5pm) Excellent (and free) information on the local

topography as well as indigenous flora and fauna; a short walk west from the

Tōya-ko Onsen bus terminal.

8 Getting There & Away

From the train station, it’s a 15-minute bus (¥330, twice hourly) or taxi ride

(¥2500) to the bus terminal in Tōya-ko Onsen.

Tomakomai 苫小牧

%0144 / POP 174,200

Tomakomai (苫小牧) is actually a sizeable industrial city on Hokkaidō’s south-

central coast, though most travellers know it only as the main port of entry for

long-distance ferries.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are restaurants near the hotels. If you’re catching a ferry it’s advisable to

eat beforehand and stock up on snacks as the food on-board is terrible (if you

just arrived by ferry, you already know that).

There really is no reason to stay in Tomakomai unless you are arriving or

departing by ferry and won’t be able to make your travel connections

otherwise. There are plenty of business hotels here, including the major chains,

for this very purpose.

8 Getting There & Away

JR Tomakomai Station is on the JR Muroran line, one hour from Sapporo

(¥1450). Dōnan Bus (www.donanbus.co.jp) runs between the ferry terminal

and JR Tomakomai Station (¥250, 15 minutes); a taxi should cost about ¥1500.

Chūō Bus (www.chuo-bus.co.jp) runs highway buses between Tomakomai

Ferry Terminal and Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal (¥1310, 1¾ hours).

FERRIES TO/FROM TOMAKOMAI

Four operators, Shin-Nihonkai Ferry (www.snf.jp), Silver Ferry

(www.silverferry.jp), MOL Ferry (www.sunflower.co.jp) and Taiheiyō Ferry

(www.taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp), run ferries between Tomakomai and the following

destinations on Honshū. Note that schedules and prices are subject to seasonal

fluctuations.

DESTINATION COST (¥;

DURATION FREQUENCY OPERATOR

2ND

(HR)

CLASS)

Akita

4530

10

Mon-Sat

Shin-Nihonkai

Ferry

DESTINATION COST (¥;

DURATION FREQUENCY OPERATOR

2ND

(HR)

CLASS)

Hachinohe (Aomori-

5000

7½

4 daily

Silver Ferry

ken)

Nagoya

9800

40

alternate days

Taiheiyō Ferry

Niigata

6480

18

Mon-Sat

Shin-Nihonkai

Ferry

Oarai (Ibaraki-ken)

8740

17

1-2 daily

MOL Ferry

Sendai

7200

15

daily

Taiheiyō Ferry

Tsuruga (Fukui-ken)

9570

19

daily

Shin-Nihonkai

Ferry

HAKODATE 函館

%0138 / POP 275,500

Built on a narrow strip of land between Hakodate Harbour to the west and

the Tsugaru Strait to the east, Hakodate (函館) is the southern gateway to the

island of Hokkaidō. Under the Kanagawa Treaty of 1854, the city was one of

the first ports to open up to international trade, and as such hosted a small

foreign community. That influence can still be seen in the Motomachi

district, a steep hillside that’s sprinkled with European buildings and

churches; the waterfront lined with red-brick warehouses; and in the

nostalgic streetcar that still makes the rounds of the city.

Central Hakodate

1 Top Sights

1 Hakodate Morning Market

D1

2 Hakodate-yama

A3

1 Sights

3 Hakodate Museum of Northern Peoples

B2

4 Old British Consulate

B2

5 Orthodox Church

B2

4 Sleeping

6 Hakodate Perry House

B1

7 La Vista Hakodate Bay Hotel

C2

5 Eating

8 Daimon Yokochō

D1

Kikuyo Shokudo

(see 1)

9 Lucky Pierrot

B2

8 Transport

10 Hakodate Eki-mae Bus Terminal

D1

11 Hakodate-yama Ropeway

B3

12 Hakorin

C2

1 Sights

Hakodate’s highlights can easily be done in a day, as they’re all time-

specific: start early at the morning seafood market; spend the day strolling

the attractive flagstone lanes of the Motomachi district; then head up

Hakodate-yama for the famous night view over the bay.

Discounted combination tickets (two/three/four sights ¥500/720/840, half-

price for children) are available for the Old British Consulate, the Old Public

Hall of Hakodate Ward, the Hakodate Museum of Northern Peoples and the

Hakodate Museum of Literature. Buy the tickets at participating sights.

Hakodate | SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Hakodate-yama

MOUNTAIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館山) Mention you’ve been to Hakodate and every Japanese person you know will

ask if you took in the night view from atop Hakodate-yama (334m) – it’s that

famous! You want to get up here for sunset or after dark: what’s striking is

seeing the lit-up peninsula (which locals say is shaped like Hokkaidō itself)

against the pitch-black waters. In addition to the viewing platform and

parking area, those who hunt will find the remains of an old fort behind the

buildings, with interesting foundations intact.

There are a few ways to get here: by ropeway, bus, car or foot. Buses for

the ropeway (¥240, 10 minutes) and the summit (¥400, 30 minutes, mid-

April to mid-November) depart from bus stop 4 at JR Hakodate Station. You

can also walk to the ropeway in 10 minutes from the Jūjigai tram stop;

alternatively you can hike up one of several trails (all take about an hour)

between May and late October. Note that the road to the summit is often

closed to private vehicles after sunset because it gets too crowded.

o Hakodate Morning Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館朝市, Hakodate Asa-ichi; www.hakodate-asaichi.com; 9-19

Wakamatsu-chō; h5am-noon; dJR Hakodate) F

With crabs grilling over hot coals, freshly caught squid packed tightly in ice-

stuffed styrofoam and the sing-song call of vendors, Hakodate Morning

Market does a fantastic impression of an old-time seafood market – though

the visitors today are tourists not wholesale buyers. (The commercial market

that was here originally has since moved to a bigger space.)

Orthodox Church

CHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館ハリストス正教会, Hakodate Harisutosu Seikyōkai;

www.orthodox-hakodate.jp; 3-13 Motomachi; donation ¥200; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 1-4pm Sun; jSuehiro-chō)

Dating from 1916, this Russian Orthodox church is adorned with distinctive

copper domes and spires. It’s still in use by the 300 or so (mostly elderly)

members of the Japanese Orthodox community.

Goryō-kaku-kōen

PARK

(五稜郭公園; jGoryōkaku-kōen-mae) F

Japan’s first Western-style fort was built in 1864 in the shape of a five-

pointed star ( goryō-kaku means ‘five-sided fort’) designed to trap attackers

in deadly crossfire. Nothing remains of the actual structure but the footprint

– a park encircled by a star-shaped moat. To best appreciate this, visit the

observatory atop the 98m Goryō-kaku Tower (五稜郭タワー; %0138-51-4785;

www.goryokaku-tower.co.jp; 43-9 Goryōkaku-chō; adult/child ¥900/450; h8am-7pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-6pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr). Exhibitions in the observatory explain the history

of the fort; you also get good views over Hakodate.

The park itself is a pretty green space, with 1600 cherry trees that bloom

in April.

Hakodate Museum of Northern Peoples

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館市北方民族資料館, Hakodate-shi Hoppō-minzoku Shiryōkan;

%0138-22-4128; www.zaidan-hakodate.com/hoppominzoku/#sisetu; 21-7 Suehiro-chō; adult/child

¥300/150; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; jSuehiro-chō)

Inside the old Japan Bank building (1926), this museum has interesting

exhibitions (labelled in English) about Ainu culture and also some of the

other indigenous cultures from Sakhalin (the island north of Hokkaidō, now

Russia) and further north.

Old British Consulate

HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旧イギリス領事館, Kyū-Igirisu Ryōjikan; %0138-27-8159;

www.hakodate-kankou.com/british/en; 33-14 Motomachi; adult/child ¥300/150; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; jSuehirochō)

From 1913 to 1934, this whitewashed mansion served as the British

consulate. You can see the restored interior and have tea (¥540) on the

ground floor.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

MIZUNASHI KAIHIN ONSEN

One of those hidden jewels – an onsen (水無海浜温泉) F in the sea! You’ll need to turn up at

the right time as the two main rock pools are covered by the sea when the tide is in; check with

the Hakodate Tourist Information Centre for bathing times. There are changing facilities.

Bathing suits are not required, though you can wear them if you’re feeling modest.

You’ll need your own wheels to get here: head east from Hakodate on Rte 278 to the Kameda

Peninsula. When the road heads inland, follow it up and over to the far coast, then turn right on

Rte 231 and drive southeast to the end of the road.

z Festivals & Events

For more info on local festivals, see www.hakodate.travel/en/experience.

Hakodate Port Festival

CULTURAL

(函館港祭り; Hakodate Minato Matsuri; hAug)

In early August, thousands of locals gather to perform traditional dances in

the streets, including Hakodate’s signature squid dance.

4 Sleeping

Most of your standard budget chains are well represented here, located

within a short walk of JR Hakodate Station. Fancier (if a bit overpriced)

options overlook the bay. Winter is considered the low season in Hakodate

and rates should drop.

B&B Pension Hakodate-mura

PENSION

$$

(Ｂ＆Ｂペンションはこだて村; %0138-22-8105; www.bb-hakodatemura.com; 16-12

Suehirochō; s/d from ¥6300/10,800; pniW; jJūjigai)

This long-running traveller favourite has a great location near the harbour,

and is within walking distance of Motomachi. The owners speak English and

are very welcoming. There’s a good spread of room options, including

family rooms. Filling breakfasts (¥840) are served in the ground-floor

lounge.

Hakodate Perry House

GUESTHOUSE

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館ぺりーハウス; %0138-83-1457; www.hakodate-perryhouse.com;

3-2 Ōmachi; without bathroom s ¥3500-4500, d ¥7000; pnW; jŌmachi)

Opened exactly 160 years after Perry’s American navy ships visited

Hakodate, this simple guesthouse is named after the great naval captain.

Rooms are small and the bathroom and toilet facilities are shared, but the

price is right and the location is conveniently near the Ōmachi tram stop.

La Vista Hakodate Bay Hotel

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ラビスタ函館ベイ; %0138-23-6111;

www.hotespa.net/hotels/lahakodate; 12-6 Toyokawa-chō; s/d from ¥16,500/37,000; naW; jUōichibadōri)

Rooms here are on the smallish side but they’ve been gussied up nicely to

evoke an early 20th-century feel (while still being modern). The hotel is

right on the waterfront, in the red-brick warehouse district, and has a rooftop

onsen with outdoor tubs overlooking the bay.

5 Eating & Drinking

For many visitors, eating is the whole reason to come to Hakodate. Squid,

caught in the Tsugaru Strait, is the city’s speciality. Hakodate is also known

for its shio-ramen (塩ラーメン; ramen in a light, salt-flavoured broth).

o Kikuyo Shokudo

SEAFOOD

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; きくよ食堂; www.hakodate-kikuyo.com/asaichi; Hakodate Morning Market; mains from ¥1080; h5am-2pm; dJR Hakodate)

Inside Hakodate Morning Market, Kikuyo Shokudo got its start in the 1950s

as a counter joint to feed market workers and is now one of the top reasons

to come to Hakodate. The speciality here is the Hakodate tomoe-don (函館

巴丼; ¥1780), rice topped with raw uni (sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe) and

hotate (scallops). There’s a picture menu.

You can also custom-make kaisen-don (raw seafood over rice) from the

list of toppings or sample another Hakodate speciality: ika-sōmen (raw squid

sliced very thinly like noodles; ¥1150).

Lucky Pierrot

BURGERS

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ラッキーピエロ; %0138-26-2099; 23-18 Suehiro-chō; burgers ¥270-1100; h10am-12.30am Sun-Fri, to 1am Sat; p; jSuehiro-chō)

Hakodate’s iconic burger shop has been voted best in the nation several

times – despite its cultivated dive image. The house special is the Chinese

chicken burger, an oddly addictive combo of twice-cooked chicken, crisp

lettuce and mayonnaise on a sesame bun. Much of the menu is similarly

fusion; the decor is carnival diner c 1989.

It has several branches around the city, but this is one of the bigger ones,

conveniently located near the bay front.

Daimon Yokochō

STREET FOOD

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大門横丁; www.hakodate-yatai.com; 7-5 Matsukaze-chō; h5pm-midnight; dJR Hakodate)

This is a fun place to gather in the evening: a collection of 25 food vendors

in an old-style marketplace, with outdoor seats (when it’s not freezing). You

can take your pick from ramen, donburi (rice bowl) dishes and typical

izakaya fare. Most places have picture menus; figure about ¥2000 per

person.

Walk straight out of JR Hakodate Station and turn left at the first traffic

light.

o Tea Shop Yūhi

TEAHOUSE

(ティーショップ夕日; %0138-85-8824; 25-18 Funami-chō; tea sets from ¥600; h10am-dusk

Fri-Tue mid-Mar–Nov; gFunami-chō Kōryū-ji mae, jHakodate Dokku-mae)

Filling the halls of a wooden building from 1885 (actually the old Hakodate

Quarantine Office) is this magical teahouse overlooking the water. It’s lit

only by natural light so closes after the sun sets. In the meantime, you can

while away the afternoon refilling your tiny pot of singleorigin green tea,

nibbling on the wagashi (Japanese sweets) and pickles that accompany it.

The teahouse is a short walk beyond the Foreigners’ Cemetery.

8 Information

Hakodate Tourist Information Centre (函館市観光案内所; %0138-23-5440;

h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Mar) Inside JR Hakodate Station, with English

brochures and maps.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

From Hakodate Airport (函館空港; %0138-57-8881; www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate; 511

Takamatsu-chō), just a few kilometres east of the city centre, there are

international flights to Seoul and Taipei, and domestic flights to various

destinations including Sapporo, Tokyo and Kansai.

Frequent buses run direct between Hakodate Airport and JR Hakodate

Station’s bus stop 11 (¥450, 20 minutes), or you can simply take a taxi

(¥2500).

BOAT

The Tsugaru Kaikyō Ferry (津軽海峡フェリー; www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp) and

the Seikan Ferry (青函フェリー; %0138-42-5561; www.seikan-ferry.co.jp; 5-11

Asanochō; adult/child Oct-May ¥1600/800, Jun-Sep ¥2000/1000) operate year-round. The

former runs between Aomori and Hakodate (¥2220 to ¥3190, 3¾ hours,

eight daily), and between Hakodate and Ōma (¥1810 to ¥2600, 1¾ hours,

two daily) on the Shimokita Peninsula. The ferry terminal, where you also

buy your tickets, is on the northeast corner of Hakodate Harbour. The Seikan

Ferry (¥1600 to ¥2000, four hours, five to eight daily) also runs between

Hakodate and Aomori, with a terminal close by.

Buses (¥320, 30 minutes) for the ferry terminal depart from bus stop 11 in

front of JR Hakodate Station; a taxi should cost about ¥2000.

BUS

Chūō Bus coaches run eight times daily (including one night departure)

between JR Hakodate Station and JR Sapporo Station (¥4810, 5½ hours);

reservations required. The bus terminal (函館駅前バスターミナル) is in

front of JR Hakodate Station; buses also stop at JR Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

Station.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

If you’ve just arrived in Hokkaidō, Hakodate is a good place to pick up a

rental car and start your road-tripping adventure across the island. Major

agencies have offices around JR Hakodate Station and in front of the JR

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto shinkansen station.

TRAIN

The JR Hokkaidō Shinkansen travels from Honshū to JR Shin-Hakodate-

Hokuto Station, north of Hakodate, via the Seikan Tunnel. There are 10

trains daily to/from Tokyo (¥22,810, four hours). The JR Hakodate Liner

connects JR Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto and JR Hakodate stations (¥360, 20

minutes, 16 times daily).

JR Limited Express Hokuto Liner trains run 12 times daily between

Hakodate and Sapporo (¥8830, 3½ hours), via JR Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

Station.

A combination of tokkyū (limited express) and kaisoku (rapid) trains run

on the JR Hakodate line between Hakodate and Niseko via Oshamambe

(¥5560, about four hours with transfers).

8 Getting Around

Single-trip fares on trams and buses generally cost between ¥210 and ¥250,

depending on how long you ride. One-day transport passes for bus (¥800),

tram (¥600) or combined bus and tram (¥1000) can be purchased at the

tourist information centre or on-board.

The Hakodate-yama Ropeway ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 函館山ロープウェイ;

%0138-23-3105; www.334.co.jp; 19-7 Motomachi; adult/child return ¥1280/780; h10am-10pm 25

Apr-15 Oct, 10am-9pm 16 Oct-24 Apr) runs up to the top of Hakodate-yama.

You can rent bikes from Hakorin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; はこりん; %0138-22-9700; 4-19 Suehiro-chō; per day ¥1600; h9am-6.30pm), which can be found at the

community center outside JR Hakodate Station.

DON’T MISS

HOKKAIDŌ’S SEASONAL SEAFOOD

For many Japanese travellers, Hokkaidō is synonymous with crab. Winter is the season for

tarabagani (タラバガニ; king crab), zuwaigani (ズワイガニ; snow crab) and kegani (毛蟹;

horse hair crab) from the frigid waters of the Sea of Okhotsk. Restaurants in Sapporo and resort

areas like Niseko do lavish crab feasts. But you don’t have to spend heaps: kani-jiru (かに汁) –

miso soup made with crab – is a decadent treat that many shokudō will serve.

Summer, meanwhile, is uni (うに; sea urchin) season. The islands of Rebun-tō and Rishiri-tō

are particularly famous for it. So is Shakotan, which means you can get good uni in season in

southern and central Hokkaidō, too. Fish markets, sushi restaurants and shokudō serve uni-don

(うに丼), a bowl of rice topped with a mountain of fresh roe; you can also get it with other

toppings on a kaisen-don (海鮮丼; mixed seafood on rice). Summer is also the season for the

blooming red hanasakigani (花咲ガニ; spiny king crab), found only around Nemuro. In

autumn you can get fresh ikura (salmon roe).

Spring is the start of squid season, which moves slowly north through autumn. Hakodate,

which peaks in June, is particularly known for squid (it even has a squid festival). Try ika-

sōmen (イカそうめん), raw squid sliced thin like noodles.

NORTHERN HOKKAIDŌ

Northern Hokkaidō (道北; Dō-hoku) is where the majestic grandeur of the

natural world takes over. Southeast of Asahikawa, Hokkaidō’s second-

largest city, is Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest national park. It’s a

raw virgin landscape of enormous proportions. Way up north, west of

Wakkanai and in the shadow of Siberia, Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National

Park is a dramatic island-scape famous for its wildflowers. For hikers and

extreme skiers the possibilities here are tantalising. South of Asahikawa,

Furano offers a somewhat mellower alternative: a family-friendly ski resort

in winter and, in summer, picturesque fields through which you can drive,

cycle or just stroll. Biei, nearby, is famous for its ‘art fields’ and a hot spot

for photographers.

4 Sleeping

Asahikawa has the most diversity of sleeping options, and also the best

deals. In winter (half the year) rooms can be had here for a song. Elsewhere,

many lodgings are only open during the warmer months (and maybe ski

season) and, because of this, can be pricier. Be wary though, of using

Asahikawa as a base in winter, as roads can be icy.

5 Eating

Furano is famous around Japan for its food production; you’ll eat well here.

Daisetsuzan National Park is trickier: with few restaurants near the park,

you’ll have to order meals at your lodging – though this can be a treat, as

many serve river fish and mountain vegetables. Asahikawa, as to be

expected of a major city, has plenty of options.

8 Getting There & Around

Asahikawa is the major transit hub for the region.

AIR

Northern Hokkaidō has two airports useful to travellers:

Asahikawa Airport In between Asahikawa and Biei and convenient for

Daisetsuzan National Park and Furano; flights to/from Tokyo, Nagoya,

Osaka and China.

Wakkanai Airport Convenient for Wakkanai and Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu

National Park; flights to/from Sapporo and Tokyo.

BOAT

Ferries depart from Wakkanai for Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō, the islands of

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park.

BUS

Frequent highway buses run from Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal to

Asahikawa; there are less frequent buses to Wakkanai.

Buses run from Asahikawa to Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen in

Daisetsuzan National Park.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

The Hokkaidō Expressway runs from New Chitose Airport via Sapporo to

Asahikawa.

It’s very handy to have a car here, as buses have very limited schedules.

However, snow comes early to northern Hokkaidō – as early as late

September in the higher elevations – and you’ll need to be mindful of road

conditions and closures.

TRAIN

The following JR Limited Express trains run from Sapporo to northern

Hokkaidō:

Super Kamui Liner For Asahikawa (¥4290, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes).

Super Sōya/Sarubetsu Liner For Wakkanai (¥9930, six hours, three daily),

via Asahikawa.

JR Limited Express Super Sōya/Sarubetsu Liner trains run north from

Asahikawa to Wakkanai. JR Furano line trains run south from Asahikawa to

Biei and Furano.

Asahikawa 旭川

%0166 / POP 352,100

Asahikawa (旭川), Hokkaidō’s second-largest city, carries the dual honour

of having the most days with snowfall in all of Japan, as well as the record

for the coldest temperature (-40°C). It is mainly used by travellers as a

transit point for Wakkanai to the north, Daisetsuzan National Park to the

southeast, and Biei and Furano to the south. However, if you find your travel

plans waylaid by bad weather, this a pleasant city in which to spend a day or

two, with a handful of sights and plenty of eating and drinking options.

Heiwa-dōri, a large pedestrian strip, extends north of JR Asahikawa

Station for eight blocks. Most hotels and many restaurants are around here,

within easy walking distance of the station.

1 Sights

Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Hall

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 川村カ子トアイヌ記念館; %0166-51-2461; www.ainu-

museum.sakura.ne.jp; 11 Hokumon-chō; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-5pm)

Built in 1916 and thus just a few years past its 100th anniversary, this

museum is less a collection of artefacts (though it has those too) and more

the story of a local Ainu family desperate to keep the old ways alive; there

are many fascinating, unstaged photographs from the early 20th century. Its

founder was Kaneto Kawamura, an Ainu chief and master surveyor, who

helped lay the tracks for many challenging rail projects in Japan; he used his

savings to start the museum.

Take bus 24 from stop 14 in front of JR Asahikawa Station to the Ainu

Kinenkanmae stop (¥190, 15 minutes, hourly).

z Festivals & Events

For local events, see www.asahikawa-daisetsu.jp/event.

Asahikawa Winter Matsuri

CULTURAL

(旭川冬祭り; www.city.asahikawa.hokkaido.jp/awf; hFeb)

Into its sixth decade, Asahikawa’s winter festival is second only to

Sapporo’s. The International Ice Sculpture Competition is a highlight,

along with local food and fun events.

Kotan Matsuri

CULTURAL

(こたんまつり; hSep)

Held on the autumn equinox in September on the banks of the Chubestu-

gawa, south of the city. There are traditional Ainu dances, music and prayer

ceremonies offered to the deities of fire, the river, kotan (the village) and the

mountains.

4 Sleeping

There’s a good spread of national hotel chains around the train station.

Guesthouse Asahikawa Ride

HOSTEL

$

(ゲストハウス アサヒカワライド; %0166-73-7923; 7-31-10 6-jō-dōri; dm ¥3900;

pniW)

On the 2nd floor of what used to be an office building, this hostel is about a

10-minute walk from JR Asahikawa Station, straight up the pedestrian strip.

The world’s smallest sign marks the entry; look for a grey building with a

red sign on the corner. Those with pet allergies beware: there’s a cat.

Art Hotel Asahikawa

HOTEL

$$

(アートホテル旭川; %0166-25-8811; 6 7-jō-dōri; s/d from ¥8800/19,000; pnW)

An easy-to-spot white tower block, the Art Hotel is Asahikawa’s top hotel.

It’s not fancy, but it is clean and comfortable with very professional staff.

Book early online for good deals. It’s a 15-minute walk from JR Asahikawa

Station, one block west of the pedestrian strip.

There’s a spa in the basement, though admission is extra (¥1130; ask for a

discount ticket at the front desk).

5 Eating & Drinking

Asahikawa is famous for its shōyu (soy sauce) ramen; there are countless

shops, the best of which are highly debated. The shopping centre attached to

JR Asahikawa Station has a food court and a supermarket. There are also

options along Heiwa-dōri.

Ramen Aoba

RAMEN

$

(らーめん青葉; %0166-23-2820; 8 2-jō-dōri; ramen from ¥750; h9.30am-2pm & 3.30-7.45pm

Thu-Tue)

The city’s oldest ramen shop (opened in 1947) serves delicious al dente

noodles in a shōyu (soy sauce) seasoned assari (light) broth – classic

Asahikawa-style. The proprietor truly loves foreign customers and may ask

you to sign her notebook.

It’s a five-minute walk from JR Asahikawa Station, one block east of the

pedestrian strip, on Midori-bashi-dōri; look for the orange door curtains.

Furarīto Alley

JAPANESE

$$

(ふらりーと小路; www.furari-to.com; h10am-11pm, individual shop times vary)

This rambling collection of tiny restaurants runs the length of an alley

between 4-jō-dōri and 5-jō-dōri, about a 10-minute walk north of the train

station. Wander along (loosely translated, furarīto means wander) and see

what looks good – options include yakitori (grilled chicken skewers),

izakaya (Japanese-style pubs) and even a tapas restaurant. Prices vary, but

none of these restaurants is expensive.

Mornings are quiet; head here after 5pm when things really start hopping.

o Coffee Shop Tirol

CAFE

(珈琲亭ちろる; %0166-26-7788; www.cafe-tirol.com; 8-7 3-jō-dōri; h8.30am-7pm)

Tirol may have only opened a few years ago, but the owner has kept the 70-

year-old building lovingly intact, with a suitably vintage interior and jazzy

soundtrack. The coffee (¥550), roasted in-house, is fantastic. Come before

11am to get the ‘morning set’ (モーニングセット; ¥750), which includes

coffee, toast and a hard-boiled egg.

It’s a five-minute walk from JR Asahikawa Station; walk up Midoribashi-

dōri and turn left after the 7-Eleven. The shop will be on your left just after

you turn.

8 Information

Asahikawa International Centre (旭川国際交流センター; %0166-25-7491;

www.asahikawaic.jp; 7th fl, Feeeal Asahikawa Bldg, 8 1-jō-dōri; h10am-5pm; W) This centre for foreign residents has a useful help desk and info-exchange bulletin board.

Tourist Information Counter (旭川観光物産情報センター; %0166-26-6665;

JR Asahikawa Station; h8.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, 9am-7pm Oct-May) Inside JR Asahikawa

Station on the ground floor, with English maps, brochures and bus

timetables, and helpful English-speaking staff.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Asahikawa Airport (旭川空港; %0166-83-3939; www.aapb.co.jp/en; E2-16-98, Higashi-

Kagura) is 10km southeast of the city, in between Asahikawa and Biei. There

are domestic flights to Tokyo, Nagoya and Osaka, as well as international

flights to Beijing, Shanghai and Taipei. Airport shuttle buses (¥650, 30

minutes) depart from bus stop 9 in front of JR Asahikawa Station and are

timed to meet arrivals and departures. A taxi should run around ¥4100.

BUS

The following buses depart from the Asahikawa Station Bus stops (%0166-25-

3000; h5.45am-9.30pm):

A Buses leave every 30 minutes from bus stop 7 for Sapporo (¥2060, two

hours; reservations necessary).

A There are four daily buses to/from Asahidake Onsen (¥1430, 1½ hours),

departing from bus stop 9.

Furano Bus (www.furanobus.jp) has eight daily runs to/from Furano (¥880,

1¾ hours) via Biei (¥620, 50 minutes), departing from bus stop 9.

Dōhoku Bus (www.dohokubus.com) has seven daily runs to/from Sōunkyō

Onsen (¥2100, two hours), departing from bus stop 8.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Rental cars are available at Asahikawa Airport or from agencies near JR

Asahikawa Station.

TRAIN

JR Limited Express Super Kamui, Okhotsk, Super Sōya and Sarubetsu Liner

trains run between Asahikawa and Sapporo (¥4290, 1½ hours, hourly).

Okhotsk Liner trains continue to Abashiri (¥7450, 3¾ hours, four daily).

There are slightly more frequent trains on the JR Sekihoku line, but you’ll

need to transfer at Kamikawa.

Super Sōya and Sarubetsu Liner trains continue to Wakkanai (¥7780, four

hours, three daily). Local trains require multiple transfers.

Hourly JR Furano trains run to Biei (¥540, 40 minutes); most continue to

Furano (¥1070, 1¼ hours).

Biei 美瑛

%0166 / POP 10,000

More or less halfway between Asahikawa and Furano, with the dramatic

mountains of Daisetsuzan National Park in the background, Biei (美瑛)

boasts some of the prettiest countryside in Hokkaidō. There is little in the

way of sights here, but plenty of meandering country lanes passing through

fields of sunflowers, lavender and white birch. Biei is primarily a summer

destination, with visitors coming to explore the countryside and maybe pick

up local produce from farm stands and/or spend an afternoon in a cute, little

cottage cafe.

There are two scenic routes, Patchwork Road (パッチワークの路) and

Panorama Road (パノラマロード). The former stitches together a

collection of small farms. The latter is a network of lanes with vistas over

the countryside. Both are well signposted, and possible to traverse by car,

bicycle or, if you get an early start, on foot.

The Biei Tourist Information C (美瑛観光案内所; %0166-92-4378; www.biei-

hokkaido.jp; h8.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, 8.30am-5pm Nov-Apr, to 6pm Oct & May)entre, to the left

as you exit the train station, has an excellent map in English that even

includes GPS map codes for key viewpoints.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Biei has a handful of pensions, the best of which are out in the countryside.

The tourist information centre has a list, but it’s better to book ahead in

summer. Note that only a few places stay open year-round.

There are some places to eat around the train station, but the better

options, which include restaurants, bakeries and cafes, are among the fields

outside of town.

Biei Potato-no-Oka

INN

$$

( MAP ; 美瑛ポテトの丘; %0166-92-3255; www.potatovillage.com; Ōmura Mura-yama; dm/d from ¥4850/22,800, breakfast/dinner ¥800/1500; hclosed mid-Nov–mid-Dec & mid-Mar–mid-Apr;

pnW) F

Among the fields of Biei’s pretty Patchwork Road, charming Potato-no-Oka,

though small, has a big variety of accommodation, including dorm rooms,

private Western- and Japanese-style rooms, and some cottages. Dinners are a

treat, using fresh produce from Potato-no-Oka’s neighbours. The owner is

friendly and speaks English. Free shuttle service is possible from Biei station

if you book 24 hours ahead.

8 Getting There & Away

JR Furano line trains run hourly between Biei and Asahikawa (¥540, 32

minutes) and every two hours between Biei and Furano (¥640, 36 minutes).

Furano buses make eight runs daily between JR Asahikawa Station and JR

Furano Station via Asahikawa Airport and Biei. The ride from Asahikawa

Airport to Biei takes 15 minutes (¥370). To Furano it’s 45 minutes and ¥640.

Rte 237 runs between Asahikawa, Biei and Furano.

8 Getting Around

Pick up a car in Asahikawa if you plan on driving around Biei. Rental

bicycles are available from a few shops around the station for ¥200/1000 per

hour/day or battery-assisted bikes for ¥600/3000. Most bicycle rental shops

will mind your bags for you.

Furano 富良野

%0167 / POP 22,700

Furano (富良野) is one of Japan’s most inland towns and considered the

centre of Hokkaidō – a distinction that has earned it the cute nickname Heso-

no-machi (Belly-Button Town). Summers are almost hot (but not quite) and

there are fields of flowers – especially lavender (which peaks in July and

draws lots of domestic travellers) – farm-fresh produce and ice-cream stands

to be enjoyed, plus plenty of opportunities for walking, hiking and cycling.

Winters, on the other hand, are very cold – resulting in extreme amounts of

powdery snow. Furano is one of the country’s top skiing and snowboarding

destinations, though it lacks the international recognition of rival Niseko.

Furano, Biei & Daisetsuzan National Park

1 Sights

1 Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Hall

A1

2 Sōunkyō

F1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

Asahi-dake

(see 4)

3 Asahi-dake Ropeway

D2

4 Asahi-dake Skiing

D2

5 Fukiage Roten-no-yu

C4

6 Furano Ropeway

A6

7 Furano Ski Area

A6

8 Kitanomine Gondola

A5

9 Kōgen-numa Meguri Hike

E2

Kuro-dake

(see 10)

10 Kuro-dake Skiing

E2

11 Kurodake-no-yu

E1

Sōunkyō Kuro-dake Ropeway

(see 11)

12 Tokachi-dake

C5

4 Sleeping

Alpine Backpackers

(see 8)

13 Biei Potato-no-Oka

B3

Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō

(see 9)

14 Daisetsuzan Shirakaba-sō

D2

15 Furano Hostel

A5

16 Furano Prince Hotel

A6

17 Kamihoro-sō

C5

New Furano Prince Hotel

(see 6)

Resort Pension Yama-no-ue

(see 11)

18 Sōunkyō Hostel

E1

7 Shopping

Ningle Terrace

(see 6)

2 Activities

Furano Ski Area

SNOW SPORTS

( MAP ; 富良野スキー場; %0167-22-1111; www.princehotels.com; lift ticket full day/night

¥5500/1800; hday 8.30am-7.30pm, night 4.30-7.30pm Decearly May; c)

Furano gets excellent, light and dry snow, yet, compared to Niseko, remains

relatively undiscovered by foreign visitors. The slopes are predominantly

beginner and intermediate, though there are some steep advanced runs. If

you’re travelling as a family, a major bonus here is that children aged 12 and

under get a free lift pass.

Eleven lifts, including the fastest gondola in Japan, help to keep the

crowds in check. The resort is anchored by two large Prince hotels with ski-

in, ski-out access, restaurants and bars. Full equipment rental is available for

¥9600 per day (¥6400 for children). English signage is adequate.

Kitanomine Gondola

CABLE CAR

( MAP ; 北の峰ゴンドラ; %0167-22-1111; return ¥1900; h6.30-9am Jul & Aug, 5.45-8.15am

Sep)

From July to September, this gondola makes early-morning runs up to 940m

for day-break views over the sea of clouds below. It doesn’t run every day or

in bad weather, so call ahead. (During snow season, it’s one of the two main

Furano lifts.)

Furano Ropeway

CABLE CAR

( MAP ; 富良野ロープウェー; %0167-22-1111; www.princehotels.com; one way/return

¥1300/1900; h8am-4pm late Jun–mid-Oct, to 7pm mid-Jul–mid-Aug)

The main lift in winter for skiers and boarders, the Furano Ropeway (a 100-

person gondola) zips visitors up to 900m for magnificent views over the

Furano valley. Outside ski season number of hiking options are available

from the top, including walking back down.

4 Sleeping

Furano is full of pensions and minshuku and staying in one out in the

countryside is one of the main reasons to visit (you’ll need your own

transport, though). If you’re here to ski, zero in on lodging in the Kitanomine

area, which is nearest the slopes. Note that many places close in the in-

between season, from mid-November to mid-December and April. It’s best

to call ahead to confirm.

o TOMAR Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(トマール; %0167-22-0750; www.tom-eve.com; dm ¥3500; pnW)

This new hostel offers great service, friendly staff, and dorm bunks that have

solid privacy curtains and still smell like fresh cut wood. It’s got a big

kitchen and excellent common areas, and is nicely located a few minutes

away from JR Furano Station.

o Alpine Backpackers

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; アルパインバックパッカーズ; %0167-22-1311; www.alpn.co.jp; 14-6

Kitanomine-chō; dm/tw/q ¥3800/7600/15,200; pniW)

Conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk from the Kitanomine

Gondola, this is a great spot for skiers and active types. Backpackers are

well catered for with cooking and laundry facilities. There are also all sorts

of activities from rafting to fishing to hot-air ballooning on offer. Check out

the website.

Furano Hostel

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 富良野ホステル; %0167-44-4441; www.furanohostel.sakura.ne.jp; 3-20 Oka-machi, Naka-Furano; dm incl breakfast & dinner ¥3450; pW)

Six minutes’ walk west of JR Naka-Furano Station (not JR Furano Station)

at the top of the hill, this hostel occupies a big farmhouse overlooking the

countryside. It’s exceptional value: breakfast and dinner are on the house

(except when the chef takes a break, often on Sundays but sometimes other

nights as well). Meals are simple, tasty and feature local produce.

Private rooms may be available for an extra ¥2160 per room. The owners

can give you a lift to the Furano ski slopes.

New Furano Prince Hotel

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; 新富良野プリンスホテル; %0167-22-1111; www.princehotels.com; s/d incl lift ticket & breakfast from ¥22,300/33,600; pnaW)

The nicer of the two Prince hotels offers comfortable, classy, though not

terribly stylish, rooms, decent restaurants and efficient service – all at the

base of the Furano Ropeway. It’s also got a few neat quirks, like the Ningle

Terrace outdoor craft centre and a coffee house and lounge bar down a path

in the woods.

Note that while children 12 and under get free lift tickets to the ski resort,

those aged seven and above are charged the adult rate at this hotel. Book

through the Japanese site for better rates.

The bus from Asahikawa Airport to Furano terminates here (¥930, 80

minutes), making this a good choice if you don’t want to drive.

Furano Prince Hotel

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; 富良野プリンスホテル; %0167-23-4111; www.princehotels.como; 18-6

Kitanomine-machi; s/d with lift ticket & breakfast from ¥21,500/26,800; paiW)

This is the older of the two Prince hotels, old and relying mainly on its

location: you’re paying for the convenience here, as the hotel is right at the

bottom of the Kitanomine Gondola. Hard to get closer than that.

Note that the same price caveats about the New Furano Prince Hotel apply

here as well, and that wi-fi is currently in the lobby only.

5 Eating & Drinking

There are restaurants clustered around JR Furano Station and also in the

Kitanomine district near the ski slopes. Furano actually produces some

decent wines and cheeses, which you’ll see on menus around town, along

with more humble local specialities such as potatoes and onions.

Furano doesn’t have anything close to the après-ski scene that Niseko has,

though there are some bars in the Kitanomine district.

o Soba Haru

SOBA

$

(そば春; %0167-56-7096; 11-5 Hinodemachi; noodles ¥650-1300; h11am-3pm & 5.30-8pm Wed-

Mon)

Not only does the owner Haru-san make the noodles here by hand, he made

the wooden soba bar himself too. Stop by for a scrumptious handmade

noodle meal at this spotless, lovely spot.

Chīzu Rāmen-no-mise Karin

RAMEN

$

(チーズラーメンの店かりん; %0167-22-1692; 9-12 Moto-machi; mains from ¥1000;

h11am-8pm, to 5pm Sep-May)

Testing the adage that everything is better with cheese, Karin adds local

Furano cheese to its ramen. Whether that sounds amazing or awful, you

know you have to try it! It’s in a nondescript brown-and-white building (look

for the red curtain) a few minutes’ walk southwest of JR Furano Station. The

elderly owners will be ecstatic to greet you.

7 Shopping

Furano Marche

FOOD & DRINKS

(フラノマルシェ; %0167-22-1001; www.furano.ne.jp/marche; 13-1 Saiwai-chō; h10am-7pm,

from 9am Jun-Sep)

This one-stop shop for made-in-Furano food and drink is stocked with local

wines, cheeses, cured meats, yoghurts and puddings. There’s also a produce

market and food court here.

Ningle Terrace

ARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP ; ニングルテラス; %0167-22-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp; h10am-8.45pm Jul & Aug, noon-8.45pm Sep-Jun)

The shopping centre at the New Furano Prince Hotel is a cute string of log

cabins, each specialising in different crafts, connected by boardwalks in the

forest. It stays open past dark, when it’s lit with fairy lights. Ningles are a

kind of forest fairy, at least according to the Furano folks.

8 Information

Furano International Tourism Centre (富良野国際観光センター; %0167-

22-5777, off-season 0167-23-3388; 2nd fl, Kitanomine Terminal, 18-Kitanomine-chō; h9am-6pm late

Dec-late Mar) Tourist information counter inside the Kitanomine Gondola

terminal.

Tourist Information Office (富良野観光案内所; %0167-23-3388;

www.furanotourism.com; h9am-6pm) Stock up on English maps and pamphlets here,

next to JR Furano Station. Staff can also help with bookings.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

Ten Chūō buses daily run between Sapporo and Furano (¥2260, 2½ hours),

stopping at Kitanomine Iriguchi, for the Kitanomine district, before the

terminus at JR Furano Station.

Furano Bus (www.furanobus.jp) makes eight runs daily between Furano

and Asahikawa (¥880, 1½ hours), stopping at Biei and Asahikawa Airport. It

takes one hour from Asahikawa Airport (¥770).

There are three buses daily between Furano and Obihiro (¥2160, 2½

hours). Reservations are necessary (0166-23-4161).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Rte 237 runs between Asahikawa, Biei and Furano. It is 59km to Asahikawa

by road, 125km from New Chitose Airport and 142km to Sapporo. Be

extremely careful in the winter months as roads in this area can be icy and

treacherous.

TRAIN

JR Furano line trains run roughly hourly from Asahikawa to Furano (¥1070,

1½ hours), via Kami-Furano and Naka-Furano.

For Sapporo (¥4140, 2¼ hours), take a futsū (local train) on the JR

Nemuro line to Takikawa, then change to the hourly JR Limited Express

Super Kamui Liner.

8 Getting Around

Buses running from Asahikawa to JR Furano Station (¥880, two hours)

continue to the Furano Prince Hotel and the New Furano Prince Hotel

(¥1050), which are, respectively, at the bases for the Kitanomine Gondola

and the Furano Ropeway. However, the earliest bus arrival in Furano is at

11.30am, so you’ll miss the entire morning unless you arrange your own

transportation. Additionally, if you’re staying in town, you’ll need to arrange

with your hotel for a ride to the slopes, unless you have your own set of

wheels.

Bicycle rentals (two hours regular/electric ¥500/1100) can be found

around JR Furano and JR Naka-Furano Stations.

Daisetsuzan National Park 大雪山国立公園

Daisetsuzan National Park (大雪山国立公園) is Japan’s largest national

park, designated in 1934 and covering more than 2300 sq km. It’s a vast

wilderness area of soaring mountains – Daisetsuzan literally means ‘Big

Snow Mountain’ – active volcanoes, remote onsen, clear lakes and dense

forests. Virtually untouched by human hands, the park has minimal tourism,

with most visitors basing themselves in the hot-spring villages on the

periphery. The three main access points into the park are Asahidake Onsen

in the northwest, Sōunkyō Onsen in the northeast and Tokachidake Onsen in

the southwest. Another special spot on the eastern side of the park is

Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen.

Daisetsuzan National Park | OKIMO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Sleeping & Eating

Sōunkyō Onsen has the most sleeping options, though even this amounts to

only a handful of lodges. Asahidake Onsen has a few; Tokachidake Onsen

has two; Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen has exactly one. With limited space, book

well in advance, especially during summer, around mid-September (when

the autumn leaves peak) and in ski season. Note that most places don’t

accept credit cards and most towns don’t have ATMs, so come with cash in

hand.

Sōunkyō Onsen is the only one of the gateway towns to have restaurants

and convenience stores (and even then, options are limited). It is highly

recommended that you sign up for meals at your accommodation and pack

plenty of snacks.

8 Getting There & Around

Buses run from Asahikawa to Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen. It’s

also possible to access Sōunkyō Onsen from Akan National Park in eastern

Hokkaidō, as buses travelling from Akanko Onsen to Asahikawa stop there.

To get to Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen, you’ll need a car, though guests at the

lodge there can take a shuttle bus from Sōunkyō Onsen. Furano, south of

Asahikawa, is the access point for Tokachidake Onsen.

While public transport can get you to the various access points around the

park, it’s not good at getting you from one point to another. If you want to

visit multiple places, you will have to do some serious back-tracking; it’s

better to have a car. If you’re driving though, be aware that snow can fall on

base roads as early as October.

Asahidake Onsen 旭岳温泉

%0166

Asahidake Onsen (旭岳温泉) sits at 1100m, at the base of Asahi-dake,

Hokkaidō’s tallest peak. It’s the easiest access point into the park, with

regular buses from Asahikawa. There are plenty of hiking options in summer

plus downhill and cross-country skiing in winter. All of this can be followed

by a soak in the healing onsen found in the town’s inns; most are open for

day use to the general public for a fee (¥800 up to ¥2160).

Be prepared: there are no ATMs, shops or restaurants at Asahidake Onsen.

The nearest amenities are a 30-minute drive away in Higashikawa.

2 Activities

o Asahi-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 旭岳)

Asahi-dake, Hokkaidō’s tallest peak (2290m) and one of Japan’s 100

Famous Mountains, offers amazing views and can be done in a day (June to

September). Take the ropeway to Sugatami, from where it’s a 2½-hour steep

6km hike to the top (allow four to five hours total for the return).

Alternatively, you could do an easier, hour-long circuit around Sugatami-

daira (姿見平), also from Sugatami.

From the summit of Asahi-dake it is possible to carry on over to Kuro-

dake and take the ropeway down to Sōunkyō Onsen. Start early, check

conditions at the visitors centre and allow seven to nine hours for this

mission.

Asahi-dake Skiing

SKIING

( MAP ; www.asahidake.hokkaido.jp; day pass ¥4500; h1 Dec-6 May) This is an extreme skiing experience on a smoking volcano – not for

beginners. The only lift is the Asahi-dake Ropeway, but it is possible to hike

up higher. There is plenty in the way of dry powder (best January to March)

and scenic views, but it is recommended you ski with an experienced

mountain guide, as visibility can be bad. There are no ski patrols to assist if

you need help.

For up-to-date information, check out www.snowjapan.com.

Asahi-dake Ropeway

CABLE CAR

( MAP ; 旭岳 ロープウェイ; %0166-68-9111; www.asahidake.hokkaido.jp; one way/return 1

Jun-20 Oct ¥1800/2900, 21 Oct-31 May ¥1200/1800; h6am-5.30pm Jul–mid-Oct, 9am-4pm mid-Oct–

Jun)

This ropeway runs about every 15 mins from Asahidake Onsen up to

Sugatami (姿見) at 1600m, the starting point for hikes up Asahidake. Even if

you don’t plan to hike (or ski), you can enjoy the alpine blooms (June and

July), the brilliant gold and red foliage (September) or the snowy vistas

(pretty much the rest of the year).

Note that it is closed yearly for maintenance between mid-November and

mid-December. Parking costs ¥500. Simple meals such as curry, ramen or

tempura are served in the Sugatami (姿見食堂) restaurant on the 2nd floor

(11am to 4.30pm).

HIKING & SKIING IN DAISETSUZAN NATIONAL PARK

Winter comes early to Daisetsuzan. While elevation may seem ‘low’ (at 2000m) compared to

mountains in Honshū that top 3000m, conditions are similar. Snow is still common on trails

through early July (and snowy gorges are visible year-round). High season is late July to early

August, when the alpine flowers bloom. Coloured leaves appear in mid-September and the first

snow falls later that month. By October, even the trailheads are snowed under and you’ll need

winter mountaineering experience and gear.

Staff at the visitor centres in both Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen can give you the

latest information on trail and weather conditions, necessary gear, bear sightings etc. This is

bear country, so you’ll need to take precautions; a bear bell is advised.

Some ski and snowboard operators in Furano run backcountry tours to Asahidake and Kuro-

dake. If you come on your own, it’s advisable to hire a local guide; your accommodation should

be able to help with that (ask well in advance).

4 Sleeping & Eating

The ropeway has a simple cafe.

o Daisetsuzan Shirakaba-sō

INN

$$

( MAP ; 大雪山白樺荘; %0166-97-2246; www.shirakabasou.com; with 2 meals dm from ¥7890,

r per person ¥8940; pW)

A cross between a youth hostel and a ryokan, this mountain lodge near the

lower terminal of the ropeway offers comfortable Japanese- and

Westernstyle rooms and hot-spring baths, plus a cool spiral staircase that

goes up to a viewing deck. There is a large kitchen available if you’re self-

catering, but it’s worth going for the meal plan.

8 Information

Asahidake Visitors Centre (旭岳ビジターセンター; %0166-97-2153;

www.welcome-higashikawa.jp; h9am-5pm) There are excellent maps here that the staff will mark with daily track conditions. If you’re heading out on a long hike,

inform them of your intentions.

8 Getting There & Away

There are four buses daily between bus stop 9 in front of JR Asahikawa

Station and Asahidake Onsen (¥1430, 1½ hours). The first bus leaves

Asahikawa at 7.40am, returning from Asahidake Onsen at 6pm. Buses run

via the Asahikawa Airport (¥1000, either direction).

Sōunkyō Onsen 層雲峡温泉

%01658

Sōunkyō Onsen (層雲峡温泉; 658m), at the foot of Kuro-dake on the

northeast side of the park, is a good base for forays into Daisetsuzan’s

interior. In addition to alpine treks, there is also the natural spectacle of the

surrounding gorges.

There are more amenities here (including ATM facilities, restaurants and a

couple of convenience stores) than in the other gateway villages. There’s

also a free foot bath in front of the Ginsenkaku Hotel. Still, if you are

heading out into the backcountry, you’d be better off organising supplies

before coming. There is no petrol station.

1 Sights & Activities

Sōunkyō

GORGE

( MAP ; 層雲峡, Layer Cloud Gorge)

Sōunkyō is a string of gorges 15km long formed by the Ishikarigawa, the

very same Ishikari River that empties out into the Sea of Japan just north of

Sapporo. A few kilometres southeast of town on Rte 39, there’s a popular

viewing station where you can see the waterfalls Ryūseino-taki (流星の滝;

Shooting Stars Falls) and Ginga-no-taki (銀河の滝; Milky Way Falls). Well

worth a detour if you’re driving.

Kuro-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 黒岳)

Take the Sōunkyō Kuro-dake Ropeway ( MAP ; 大雪山層雲峡・黒岳ロー

プウェイ; %0165-85-3031; www.rinyu.co.jp/kurodake; one way/return ¥1100/1950; h8am-7pm Jun-Aug, 7am-5pm Sep-May, closed intermittently winter) and chairlift to the mountain’s

seventh station (1520m), from where it’s a 90-minute, 1km trek to the

summit at 1984m. This hike, doable between June and early October (check

at the visitor centre about early snow), is a favourite with alpine plant and

flower enthusiasts.

From the summit of Kuro-dake it is possible to carry on over to Asahi-

dake and take the ropeway down to Asahidake Onsen. Start early, check

conditions at the visitor centre and allow seven to nine hours for this

mission.

Kuro-dake Skiing

SKIING

( MAP ; %0165-85-3031; www.rinyu.co.jp/kurodake; pass ¥3800) Kuro-dake gets heaps of fantastic snow and is becoming a word-of-mouth

destination for hard-core enthusiasts who like vertical and challenging

terrain. The season is December to early May, though the ropeway and

chairlift close for maintenance for parts of January and February – time your

visit well. This is not a place for beginners; avalanche gear is required for

backcountry skiing.

A guide is recommended. For up-to-date info, check out

www.snowjapan.com.

Kurodake-no-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 黒岳の湯; %01658-5-3333; www.sounkyo.com/kurodakenoyu; ¥600; h10am-9.30pm) After a hard day of play, Kurodake-no-yu offers handsome hot-spring baths,

including a 3rd-floor rotemburo – it’s on the town’s main pedestrian street.

DAISETSUZAN GRAND TRAVERSE

The Ainu called the area now known as Daisetsuzan National Park kamui mintara, meaning

‘the playground of the gods’. Those gods being the animals, most notably the brown bear – the

god of the mountains – that had the run of the land. For experienced hikers, the park offers an

amazing opportunity to really get out into the wilderness.

The 55km Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse covers the length of the park in anywhere from five to

seven days, and as such, it’s for expert hikers only. You could start at either Asahidake Onsen or

Sōunkyō Onsen and you’ll finish at Tokachidake Onsen. There are some extremely bare-bones

huts along the way, but it’s better to have a tent and camping gear. You’ll need to carry in your

own food and cooking supplies.

It is highly recommended to attempt this from mid-July through August, though it’s feasible

June to September. Any earlier and there will likely still be snow and ice; any later and you

might have trouble finding water and be freezing your tush off. Check in with the staff at the

visitor centre at either Asahidake Onsen or Sōunkyō Onsen, and carry a copy of Shōbunsha’s

Yama-to-Kōgen Chizu Map 3: Daisetsuzan (昭文社山と高原地図３大雪山).

It’s also possible, with a very early start, to do a one-day traverse, from Asahi-dake, in

Asahidake Onsen, to Kuro-dake, in Sōunkyō Onsen, going up one ropeway and down the other.

4 Sleeping

Sōunkyō Hostel

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 層雲峡ホステル; %080-2862-4080; Sōunkyō 39; dm/d ¥3200/8000; hJun-Oct; pnW)

Expect a warm welcome at this humble wooden hostel, a 10-minute walk

uphill from the bus station. There are bunk-bed dorms and a few private

family rooms (book well ahead for the latter). This is a great place to meet

other hikers before tackling the trails in the park. Summer season only.

Note that kitchen facilities are minimal, so it’s best to sign up for the

basic, but filling, meal plan.

Resort Pension Yama-no-ue

PENSION

$$

( MAP ; リゾートペンション「山の上」; %01658-5-3206; www.tabi-

hokkaido.co.jp/p.yamanoue; tw with/without 2 meals ¥18,900/11,600; pW)

This friendly, family-run place is in the middle of the village, straight down

from the ropeway terminal. There are nature photos everywhere and the

meals are prepared with great care. Don’t be fooled by ‘resort’ in the name:

it’s a humble place. Rooms are tatami-style with shared facilities; the bath

gets the same hot-spring water as Kurodakeno-yu next door.

8 Information

Sōunkyō Visitor Centre (層雲峡ビジターセンター; %01658-9-4400;

www.sounkyovc.net; h8am-5.30pm Jun-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-May) Near the bottom of the

Sōunkyō ropeway, this is an excellent visitor centre with displays, photos

and maps (some in English). Run your hiking plans by the helpful staff.

8 Getting There & Away

There are seven daily buses in both directions between Sōunkyō Onsen and

Asahikawa (¥2100, two hours) via Kamikawa.

JR Rail Pass holders can take the JR Sekihoku line from Asahikawa to

Kamikawa, and then catch the bus from Kamikawa to Sōunkyō Onsen

(¥870, 30 minutes).

There are two buses daily to Kushiro (¥4930, five hours) via Akanko

Onsen (¥3350, three hours) in Akan National Park and one bus daily to

Obihiro (¥2260, 2¼ hours).

If you’re driving, Rte 39 connects Sōunkyō Onsen to Asahikawa in the

west and Abashiri in the east.

Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen 大雪高原温泉

%01658

On the eastern side of the park about 20km south of Sōunkyō Onsen,

Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen (大雪高原温泉) is about as remote as it gets. Ten

kilometres up an unsealed road in the middle of nowhere you’ll find a couple

of buildings in the heart of the national park. Make the effort – this is a

highly recommended mountain adventure.

There are no shops, ATMs or petrol stations.

2 Activities

Kōgen-numa Meguri Hike

HIKING

( MAP ; 高原沼めぐり登山コース; h22 Jun-10 Oct)

This 6km four-hour hiking course around the Kōgen-numa (small lakes) is

your best chance to see a brown bear in the wild. It’s strictly regulated.

Hikers must listen to a lecture at the Brown Bear Information Centre (ヒ

グマ情報センター; h7am-4pm late Jun–mid-Oct) and are only allowed to head out

on the hike between 7am and 1pm. Hikers must be off the track by 3pm.

Staff are out on the track each day, radioing in bear whereabouts and

keeping an eye on both the hikers and the bears. This is a wonderful day hike

beneath the high peaks. Soak in the onsen at Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō after

your walk.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō

LODGE

$$

( MAP ; 大雪高原山荘; %01658-5-3818; www.daisetsukogen.com; per person incl meals

¥17,280; h10 Jun-10 Oct; pnW)

Make the most of your foray into the mountains: this inn, only open 123

days each year, is like staying at a mountain hut without having to walk five

hours to get there. There are simple tatami rooms with shared facilities, but

the food is good, the onsen is hot and the air is fresh. No English is spoken,

so come prepared.

Note that early check-in is required (between 10.30am and 3pm) to ensure

guests are not navigating the treacherous mountain road in the dark. Also,

due to the remoteness, there is no telephone or mobile service, or wi-fi.

The lodge also operates a shokudō (casual eatery) between 11.30am and

1pm, with simple meals such as ramen and curry rice.

There are two shuttle buses per day from Sōunkyō Onsen for overnight

guests (reservations necessary), but having your own wheels is the best

option. If you’re not staying, you can use the onsen for ¥700.

8 Getting There & Away

Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen is at the end of a 10km unsealed road off Rte 273 to

the east of the park. The turn-off is signposted about 15km southeast from

Sōunkyō Onsen.

Alternatively, make a booking for the night at Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō and

use its twice-daily shuttle service for guests from Sōunkyō Onsen. There’s a

bus from Asahikawa Station (¥2100) seven times daily but only two match

up with the shuttle.

Tokachidake Onsen 十勝岳温泉

%0167

At 1270m, remote Tokachidake Onsen (十勝岳温泉) is the highest of the

gateway villages for Daisetsuzan. It is also the least developed, with no

ropeway and just two inns, and is thus the least crowded – though it’s

relatively easy to access from Furano. In addition to being the end point for

the epic Grand Traverse hike, Tokachidake Onsen is also a great spot for

starting day hikes into the park. There are no shops, ATMs or petrol stations

– not even a visitor centre – so you need to come prepared.

2 Activities

o Fukiage Roten-no-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 吹上露天の湯) F

If the idea of sitting naked in pools of hot steaming water surrounded by

pristine forest appeals to you, then head to Fukiage Roten-no-yu. The turn-

off, 2km before Tokachidake Onsen on Rte 291, is signposted. There’s a

parking lot, from where it’s a 200m walk through the woods to the springs.

There’s nothing there except two hot pools; the one higher up is hotter

than the other. It’s not for the shy: strip off and hop in! There’s no charge…

and this place is konyoku, meaning men and women bathe together. You can

take a small ‘modesty towel’ if you prefer.

Tokachi-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 十勝岳)

A return trip up Tokachi-dake (2077m), an active volcano and one of Japan’s

Hyakumeizan (100 Famous Mountains), will take six to eight hours return

(16km) and reveal some marvellous volcanic landscapes – if you’re lucky

enough to get clear weather.

About 40 minutes in, the trail splits, with one branch heading up to the

Tokachi-dake summit and another veering south to Furanodake (富良野岳;

1912m); the 9.5km return trip up the latter will take four to six hours.

4 Sleeping

Kamihoro-sō

LODGE

$$

( MAP ; カミホロ荘; %0167-45-2970; www.tokachidake.com/kamihoro; d incl 2 meals from

¥15,000; pnW)

A good place to unwind after hiking, with pleasant Japanese-style rooms,

filling meals and hot-spring baths fronting the mountains. Nonguests can use

the baths for ¥600.

When it’s not crowded, it may be able to accommodate solo travellers –

call ahead. Wi-fi in the lobby only.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses (¥500, 40 minutes) run three times daily to Tokachidake Onsen from

JR Kami-Furano Station, 15 minutes north of Furano on the JR Furano line.

Wakkanai 稚内

%0162 / POP 35,700

Wakkanai (稚内), Japan’s northernmost city at 45°N, changes wildly with

the seasons. From November to March, it’s something akin to a remote

Siberian outpost, home to hearty fishers, kelp farmers and a harp-seal

colony. Outside the winter months, it’s a pleasantly mild port city that serves

as a departure point for ferries to the islands of Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō. In

addition to English, you’ll see Cyrillic on the street signs – due to the

frequent Russian travellers.

Wakkanai

1 Sights

1 Fukukō-ichiba

A3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

2 Minato-no-yu Onsen

A4

4 Sleeping

3 ANA Crowne Plaza Wakkanai

A1

4 Tenpoku no Yu Dormy Inn

A2

5 Eating

5 Pechika

A4

6 Take-chan

A1

1 Sights & Activities

Fukukō-ichiba

MARKET

( MAP ; 副港市場; %0162-29-0829; www.wakkanai-fukukou.com; 1-6-28 Minato; hhours vary; p)

About a 10-minute walk south of JR Wakkanai Station, this complex has

restaurants, souvenir shops and the Minato-no-yu Onsen. It’s designed to

evoke the Wakkanai of bygone days. Poke around to see some historical

photos and videos of the town – and also of Sakhalin (when it was Karafu-

tō, and still part of Japan, prior to 1945).

Minato-no-yu Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 港の湯温泉; %0162-22-1100; 2nd fl, Fukukō-ichiba, 1-6-28 Minato; adult/child

¥750/420; h10am-10pm; p)

Wakkanai’s best public onsen has outdoor baths that look over the harbour,

and funky boat-shaped stairs for those who opt out of taking the elevator.

4 Sleeping

Considering it’s the transit hub for Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō, Wakkanai has

relatively few sleeping options: a few good-value business hotels and one

higher-end one.

Tenpoku no Yu Dormy Inn

HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; 天北の湯ドーミーイン稚内; %0162-24-5489; www.hotespa.net/hotels/wakkanai/;

2-7-13 Chūō; s/d from ¥7590/11,790; pnaiW)

With an in-house onsen, free laundry machines (dryers extra) and a

convenient location only four minutes’ walk from JR Wakkanai Station, this

is an easy choice. Rooms are standard issue but clean and not cramped.

ANA Crowne Plaza Wakkanai

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; ANAクラウンプラザホテル稚内; %0162-23-8111; www.anacpwakkanai.com; 1-2-2 Kaiun; s/d incl breakfast from ¥18,500/32,000; naiW)

Right on the waterfront and an easy walk to both the ferry and the train

station, Wakkanai’s only remotely upscale (though a bit weather-worn)

option is a good bet – especially if you book an air-ticket package. Ask for

an ocean-front room (plus ¥1000) when you book. Bonus: the airport bus

stops here.

5 Eating

The JR Wakkanai Station building and Fukukō-ichiba are easy bets, as both

have a selection of restaurants.

Pechika

RUSSIAN

$

( MAP ; ペチカ; %0162-23-7070; Fukukō-ichiba, 1-6-28 Minato; mains from ¥400, set meals from

¥1500; h5-10pm; p)

If seeing all that Cyrillic on the street signs around Wakkanai has got you

hankering for some pelmeni (dumplings; ¥700) or pirozhki (stuffed buns;

¥300), Pechika will help you out. There’s plenty of Russian beer and vodka

to wash it all down.

Take-chan

SEAFOOD

$$

( MAP ; 竹ちゃん; %0162-22-7130; www.take-chan.co.jp; 2-8-7 Chūō; mains from ¥600, set meals ¥1400-3500; h5-10pm)

This popular seafood joint does good-value sushi sets as well as some

seafood-themed variations on classic Japanese dishes, and some darned good

fried chicken. Take-chan is a short walk from JR Wakkanai Station, with an

illuminated, white vertical sign.

8 Information

There are info centres at the airport and ferry terminal, open from May to

September.

Tourist Information Counter (%0162-22-2384; www.welcome.wakkanai.hokkaido.jp;

h10am-6pm) Pick up maps and bus schedules from this counter located inside

JR Wakkanai Station.

Wakkanai Post Office (稚内郵便局; 2-15-2 Chūō; h8.45am-7pm Mon-Fri) If you’re

heading to Rishiri-tō or Rebun-tō, stock up on cash here, as few places on

the islands accept credit cards. There is no 7-11, so the postal ATM is most

travellers’ best option for getting cash.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

From Wakkanai Airport (稚内空港; %0162-27-2111; www.wkj-airport.jp; 6744 Koetoi-

mura), about 10km east of the city centre, there are year-round daily flights to

Sapporo and Tokyo, plus seasonal flights to Nagoya and Osaka. Buses

(¥600, 30 minutes) run between the airport and the ferry terminal, stopping

at JR Wakkanai Station, and are timed to meet departures and arrivals. A taxi

costs ¥4000.

BOAT

Heartland Ferry (ハートランドフェリー; %0162-23-3780; www.heartlandferry.jp)

Has sailings to Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō.

WAKKANAI–SAKHALIN (RUSSIA) FERRY

The Hokkaidō Sakhalin Line (北海道サハリン航路; %0162-22-2550; www.hs-line.com; one

way/round trip ¥15,000/30,000) connects Wakkanai to Korsakov (on the Russian island of

Sakhalin). Ferries sail twice weekly from August to mid-September; the trip takes 4½ hours.

Many of those who make the journey are Japanese who have family ties to Sakhalin, though

there are tourists, too.

You must book through a travel agent, which should also handle the necessary visa

preparations. Both Hokuto Kankō (北都観光; %0162-23-3820; www.hoktokanko.co.jp; 4-5-29

Chūō, Wakkanai; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat), in Wakkanai, and Nomad ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; ノマド; %011-200-8840; www.hokkaido-nomad.co.jp; S2W6 Chūō-ku;

h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; bTōzai, Tōhō & Namboku lines to Ōdōri, exit 1), in Sapporo, are set up to

do this. Note that this ferry service has been suspended in the past and at the time of research

was operating on a trial basis only – its future is uncertain. If you are not returning to Japan,

you may be asked to show an onward ticket at customs in Russia.

BUS

Buses run three to five times daily (including one night bus) between

Wakkanai and Sapporo (one way/round trip ¥6200/11,300, six hours), with

some going directly to/from the ferry terminal.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

It’s a long, half-day ride to Wakkanai no matter how you do it: straight up

Rte 40 from Asahikawa, or along the scenic coastal routes from either

Abashiri (the Okhotsk line) or Otaru (the Ororon line).

If you’re heading out to Rishiri-tō or Rebun-tō, parking is available at the

ferry terminal for ¥1000 per day. Up to three hours is free.

TRAIN

Three daily JR Super Sōya or Sarobetsu Liner trains connect Wakkanai to

Asahikawa (¥7780, 3¾ hours) and Sapporo (¥9930, five hours).

8 Getting Around

Downtown Wakkanai is easy to get around on foot. JR Wakkanai Station is

right next to the bus terminal and both are just a 10-minute walk from the

ferry port.

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park 利尻礼文サ

ロベツ国立公園

The islands of Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō are among the remotest in Japan, off

the coast of the country’s northernmost city, Wakkanai. Part of the Rishiri-

Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park (利尻礼文サロベツ国立公園), they are

largely undeveloped, save for a few scrappy fishing settlements and a small

tourism industry. Geographically, they are totally different: Rishiri-tō is

dominated by its volcano, Rishiri-zan; Rebun-tō is long and skinny, shaped

by shifting plates. Most visitors come in summer, to climb Rishiri-zan, or to

hike along the ridges in Rebun-tō, where wildflowers bloom in June and

July.

Also part of the park are the Sarobetsu Wetlands ( MAP ; サロベツ原野;

Sarobetsu Genya), on the mainland 40km southwest of Wakkanai. Fields of

wildflowers bloom here in summer, which can be appreciated from

boardwalks built over the marsh. There are also good views of Rishiri-zan

from here – especially in winter, when eagles fly overhead and you can rent

snowshoes (¥500) from the Sarobetsu Wetlands Centre ( MAP ; サロベツ湿

原センター; %0162-82-3232; http://sarobetsu.or.jp/swc; 8662 Banchi Kami-sarobetsu, Toyotomichō; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr, closed Mon Nov-Apr) to walk out over the

snow pack.

Wakkanai & Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park

1 Sights

1 Sarobetsu Wetlands

F4

2 Sukai-misaki

A1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

3 Momoiwa Course

A2

4 Pon-yama

B3

5 Rebun-dake

A2

6 Rebun-tō Traverse

A1

7 Rishiri-Fuji Onsen

B3

8 Rishiri-zan

B3

4 Sleeping

9 Hokuroku Campground

B3

10 Kushu-kohan Campground

A1

11 Momoiwa-sō Youth Hostel

A2

12 Rishiri Green Hill Inn

B3

5 Eating

13 Kaisen-dokoro Atoi

A1

8 Information

Sarobetsu Wetlands Centre

(see 1)

4 Sleeping

On both Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō there are campgrounds, hostels, pensions

and hotels. The port of Oshidomari on Rishiri-tō is the largest settlement and

has the most lodgings and amenities. Note that many accommodation

options are seasonal, open roughly from May through early October.

5 Eating

Uni (sea urchin) is the islands’ speciality. There are two kinds to sample:

kitamurasaki uni (June to September) and Ezo bafun uni (July and August).

The fresh seafood is delicious but don’t expect bargain prices; the going rate

for uni-don (urchin roe on rice) is ¥4000. There are some restaurants and a

Seico Mart in both Oshidomari (Rishiri-tō) and Kafuka (Rebun-tō). Most

visitors eat at their accommodation or bring food with them.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Rishiri-tō Airport, just a few kilometres west of Oshidomari, has flights

to/from Sapporo on ANA (www.ana.co.jp) and Japan Airlines (JAL;

www.jal.co.jp). Otherwise, Wakkanai is the transport hub for the park.

FERRY

Heartland Ferry operates two to four ferries daily (year-round) between

Wakkanai and Oshidomari (%0163-82-2201) on Rishiri-tō (from ¥2240, 1¾

hours) and between Wakkanai and Kafuka Port (%0163-86-1662; h8am-5.30pm) on

Rebun-tō (from ¥2470, two hours).

June to September, less frequent ferries (¥900, 45 minutes) run in both

directions from Oshidomari and Kutsugata (%0163-84-2349) ports on Rishiri-tō

to Kafuka port on Rebun-tō. Tickets are available for purchase at any port.

For the Sarobetsu Wetlands, infrequent trains on the JR Sōya line run

between Wakkanai and Toyotomi ( futsū ¥930, 50 minutes; tokkyū ¥1550, 40

minutes). Buses (¥380, nine minutes) run from JR Toyotomi Station to the

Sarobetsu Wetlands Centre at 8.30am, 1.25pm and 2.50pm June to

September and at 9.15am and 1.50pm October to May.

Rishiri-tō 利尻島

%0163 / POP 2150

Seen from the distance, Rishiri-tō (利尻島) seems to be all mountain, a

perfect volcanic cone, topped with snow most of the year, rising from the

sea. This is Rishiri-zan, one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains, and the

island’s main draw – it’s on every Japanese hiker’s bucket list. That said, its

sheer remoteness means that Rishiri-tō never gets truly crowded. The

weather on the island, however, is highly unpredictable: if you’re keen on

hiking, it’s a good idea to stay for three or so nights, in the hope that on at

least one of those days the weather will cooperate.

2 Activities

Cycling is a great way to see the island: circumnavigating the 60km

perimeter on bicycle takes approximately seven to eight hours. There’s also a

25km cycling path that runs through woods and coastal plains from

Oshidomari to past Kutsugata.

o Rishiri-zan

HIKING

( MAP ; 利尻山)

Rishiri-zan (1721m) is also known as Rishiri-Fuji, as its solitary and perfect

cone resembles famous Fuji-san. The hike to the top can be incredibly

rewarding, with amazing views of Rebun-tō and even Sakhalin, but requires

serious fitness. As the trailhead is at 220m, you’ve got to scale 1500 vertical

metres. On average, the return trip takes 10 to 11 hours.

Unlike Fuji-san, Rishiri-zan is actually a beautiful mountain to climb, with

fir, spruce and birch trees on the lower reaches and meadows of alpine

flowers higher up. June through September is the best time to attempt an

ascent, though even in the best of times the weather can be highly

changeable, especially as the mountain is unshielded from winds. There are

actually two peaks, Kita-mine (北峰) and Minami-mine (南峰), though the

latter is closed for safety reasons.

There are no facilities on the mountain except for an unstaffed emergency

shelter between the eighth and ninth stations. It is recommended to bring a

minimum of 2L of water and you’ll need to purchase a ‘mobile restroom’ kit

(¥400) to use in designated booths on the mountain.

The main trailhead is 5km from the ferry port at Oshidomari (鴛泊)

behind the Hokuroku Campground. There is also a trailhead about 6km from

Kutsugata, Rishiri-tō’s other port. You can climb one and descend the other.

The Kutsugata course is trickier, with a greater possibility of loose and

falling rock, and should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers.

Buses, and even taxis, don’t start up early enough to get you to the

trailhead. As hiking is the most common reason to visit, most lodgings offer

free shuttle service to the trailhead at around 5am.

The tourist information office at the Oshidomari ferry terminal has a

pretty good English climbing guide, but the Shobunsha Yama-to-kōgen

Chizu 1 Rishiri; Rausu (山と高原地図１利尻；羅臼) map (in Japanese) is

far more detailed.

Pon-yama

HIKING

( MAP ; ポン山)

For fantastic views of Rishiri-zan (and a far less challenging climb), you can

scale neighbouring Pon-yama (444m) in about two hours, a 4km round trip.

Start at the Rishiri-zan trailhead; the path to Pon-yama splits off 10 minutes

into the hike, to the left.

Rishiri-Fuji Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 利尻富士温泉; %0163-82-2388; ¥500; h11am-9pm Jun-Aug, noon-9pm Sep-May)

Could there be a better place to go to recover from climbing Rishiri-zan? We

don’t think so. This onsen is conveniently located on the road from

Oshidomari to the trailhead. Pick it out on your way to the climb in the

morning so you know where to go on the way back. There are a few local

buses (¥150, seven minutes) to the onsen from Oshidomari Ferry Terminal,

or it’s about a 20-minute walk.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

SKIING & SURFING ON RISHIRI-TŌ

Yes, you read that right. There is skiing and surfing to be had on Rishiri (for the adventurous

and experienced). Rishiri Nature Guide Service (利尻自然ガイドサービス; %0163-82-2295;

www.maruzen.com/tic/guide), run by adventure guide (and Rishiri local) Watanabe Toshiya, offers backcountry tours on Rishiri-zan from late December through May. This is true

backcountry stuff (think no lifts) with plenty of hiking up, followed by steep descents down the

volcano – which sees few skiers or boarders – all the while taking in the breathtaking ocean

views.

The tours (maximum six people; from ¥10,800 per person) are popular and book out fast,

especially for peak powder season in January and February (April, Toshiya says, is best for

sunny days). You’ll need your own gear.

As for surfing, Toshiya swears the waters up this far aren’t as cold as you’d think. September

and October are the best, after the summer sun has warmed the sea and typhoons from the south

drift north to deposit large swells. That said, the appeal of getting to ski or board and surf on the

same trip is so strong that some do brave the waters off-season (you’ll need a drysuit). Toshiya,

who speaks some English, is happy to dispense tips on surf points. You can usually find him in

the evenings at his pension, Maruzen Pension Rera Mosir.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hokuroku Campground

CAMPGROUND

$

( MAP ; 北麓野営場; %0163-82-2394; campsites per person ¥500, cabins ¥5000; hmid-May–

mid-Oct; p)

Located at the Rishiri-zan trailhead, this camping ground is a good spot to

stay if you want to get an early start to the hike. Cabins, which have blankets

and pillows, sleep four. It’s a 60-minute walk from the ferry terminal, or you

can take the local bus (¥150) as far as Rishiri-Fuji Onsen and walk the

remaining 30 minutes.

Rishiri Green Hill Inn

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 利尻ぐりーんひるinn; %0163-82-2507; www.rishiri-greenhill.net; 35-3 Fujino,

Oshidomari; dm/d ¥3800/9600; hmid-Mar–mid-Oct; pniW)

An excellent budget or backpacker option, this hostel has simple Japanese-

and Westernstyle dorm rooms. There’s free bread in the morning and a

kitchen for cooking, but you’ll have to walk 10 minutes to town to pick up

supplies (or take advantage of the hostel’s bicycle rentals; ¥1300 per day).

The friendly owners will pick you up from the port and take you to the

trailhead for Rishiri-zan.

o Maruzen Pension Rera Mosir

PENSION

$$

(マルゼンペンションレラモシリ; %0163-82-2295; www.maruzen.com/tic/oyado; 227-5

Sakae-chō, Oshidomari; per person with/without 2 meals ¥11,000/7460; pnaiW)

Run by local adventure guide Watanabe Toshiya, Rera Mosir is the best

place on the island for active types – whether you’re here to climb Rishiri-

zan in summer or ski the backcountry in winter. It’s also one of the few

places open year-round. Though small, it’s modern and run like a hotel, and

even has an onsen bath.

It does free shuttle runs to/from the port and the trailhead for Rishiri-zan;

if you want to explore on your own, its rental cars are the cheapest on the

island. The seafood dinners are good, too. Prices drop by ¥2000 to ¥2500 in

the winter.

Tsuki Café

CAFE

$

(月カフェ; %0163-85-7474; www.tsukirishiri.wix.com/tsuki; 2nd fl, Oshidomari Ferry Terminal; h11am-3pm Thu-Tue)

A surprisingly tasty cafe for a ferry terminal, Tsuki serves up coffee, cakes

and curries to waiting passengers. Service is so-so, and nonsmokers may

have to cough their way through the meal, but the large picture windows

look over the port and it’s a great way to wait for the ferry to come.

It sometimes opens earlier and closes later during busy periods.

8 Information

Oshidomari Tourist Information Office (%0163-82-2201; www.rishiri-plus.jp; hmid-Apr–Oct) On the ground floor of the ferry terminal. Pick up English-language

climbing guides, maps and bus schedules. English-speaking staff can also

help with bookings.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Rental bicycles (both city and mountain bikes; ¥1500 per day) can be found

in front of the ferry terminal in Oshidomari. Many accommodation places

also rent bicycles.

BUS

Buses (¥370, 20 minutes) to the airport are timed to meet departures. Check

at the tourist information office for exact times. A taxi into town costs

around ¥2000.

Local buses run clockwise (six times daily) and counter-clockwise (five

times daily) around the island. The trip from Oshidomari to Kutsugata

(¥750) takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on whether the bus stops at the

airport. You can circumnavigate the island in about two hours (¥2260), but

it’s best to get a one-day pass (¥2260) from the driver if you plan to do so.

The tourist information office has a current bus schedule in English.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

There are car rental shops in front of the ferry terminal; however, rates are

higher than elsewhere in Hokkaidō, starting at ¥5000 to ¥7000 for three

hours. Motorcycles cost ¥3000 to ¥5000 per day.

Rebun-tō 礼文島

%0163 / POP 2650

Rebun-tō (礼文島), Japan’s northernmost island, gets almost all of its

visitors during a two-month span – in June and July when the wildflowers

hit peak bloom. However, there is usually something in bloom from May

through September (and September can be lovely, too, when the bamboo

grass turns golden). Given the island’s remoteness, there are some rare and

unusual flowers, such as the Rebun Lady’s Slipper Orchid. Rebun-tō is

primarily a summer destination, as winter is cold and very windy.

1 Sights & Activities

Hiking is the main draw on Rebun-tō and there are several trails to suit

different levels. You can also rent a scooter or car to visit the capes on the

northern end of the island, which offer gorgeous sea views (when the

weather cooperates). Year-round you can usually see spotted seals lazing on

the rocks in Funadomari Bay (船泊湾) and at Kaneda-misaki (金田ノ岬).

Sukai-misaki

VIEWPOINT

( MAP ; 澄海岬)

This is the prettiest of the island’s capes, where the waters are an almost

tropical blue, framed by craggy rocks and grassy slopes. The Rebun-tō

Traverse passes here; it’s also accessible by road. As elsewhere on the

island, it can be very windy. Hold onto that hat and keep trash tightly in

hand.

o Rebun-tō Traverse

HIKING

( MAP ; 8時間コース, Eight-Hour Course)

This challenging but rewarding hike along the island’s west coast starts at

Sukoton-misaki (スコトン岬), the northernmost point on the island, passes

beautiful Sukai-misaki and finishes down by the port in Kafuka, about

17km. Despite the name, it’s best to budget 10 hours. You can also do an

abridged version in four hours, returning northward from Sukai-misaki to the

bus stop at Hama-naka (浜中).

To do the full hike, you’ll need to catch the first bus of the day from the

ferry terminal at 6.30am for Sukoton (¥1220), which means you’ll need to

sleep in Rebun two nights. Wear long pants and long sleeves as some of the

local flora can cause skin irritation.

Momoiwa Course

HIKING

( MAP ; 桃岩コース)

The easiest and most popular of the island’s hikes, and particularly beautiful

when the wildflowers bloom, wends from the southernmost point in

Shiretoko (知床) across a backbone of highlands to Momoiwa (桃岩; Peach

Rock) and across to Kafuka. The 5.3km hike takes roughly three hours.

From late April to mid-September, a bus (¥270) runs from the ferry to

Momoiwa’s lookout point.

Rebun-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 礼文岳)

Rebun-dake (490m) is the highest point on the island. The not-too-

challenging 4.5km hike to the top reaps big rewards, with 360-degree views

over the island. The trail begins at the Nairo (内路) bus stop, a 20-minute

bus ride (¥610) from the ferry terminal. The return hike takes three to four

hours.

Usuyuki-no-yu Onsen

ONSEN

(うすゆきの湯; %0163-86-2345; 961-1 Besshu, Kafuka-mura; ¥600; hnoon-10pm Apr-Sep,

from 1pm Oct-Mar)

The perfect place to rest after a hike, this onsen is right on the waterfront,

just a couple of minutes’ walk from the ferry terminal. From the rotemburo

you can see Rishiri-zan. Families will enjoy the private bath, known as

kashikiriburo.

4 Sleeping

Momoiwa-sō Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 桃岩荘ユースホステル; %0163-86-1421; www.youthhostel.or.jp/n_momoiwaso;

dm ¥3800, breakfast/dinner ¥600/1000; hJun-Sep; pn)

Part Lost Boys hideaway, part loopy summer camp, Momoiwa-sō is a very

special place, which you will either love or hate. It has very strict rules, but

also a lot of singing and dancing (for example, the 6am wake-up call

includes bike horns and retro pop music blasting from loudspeakers). The

location, on the remote western coast, is stunning.

The wooden building is a 150-year-old former fishery, and the

accommodation, in bunks or on tatami mats, is basic. So are the meals,

which you’ll need unless you’ve packed food.

Momoiwa-sō organises group hikes along the Rebun-tō Traverse with

shuttle service (¥700) at 5.40am to Sukoton. It also does free shuttle runs to

and from the ferry terminal (otherwise it’s an hour’s walk). The atmosphere

is very social; it’s near impossible to leave without making friends.

Kushu-kohan Campground

CAMPGROUND

$

( MAP ; 久種湖畔キャンプ場; %0163-87-3110; Funadomari-mura; campsites per person

¥600; hMay-Sep; p)

Beside Kushu-ko at the northern end of the island, this campground has

grassy plots for tents and also some basic cabins that sleep four (¥2000, plus

the standard per-person fee), and cottages that sleep up to five (¥15,000).

The nearest bus stop is Byōin-mae, a 45-minute (¥960) ride from the ferry

terminal. It does not have tents for rent.

If you ask, the bus driver can let you off a little closer to the campground,

rather than at the bus stop. No pets.

o Pension Uni

PENSION

$$

(ペンションうーにー; %0163-86-1541; www.p-uni.burari.biz; Tonnai, Kafuka-mura; per

person with/without 2 meals ¥11,880/8860; pnW)

Up the hill from the port, this immaculately clean pension with a big ‘U-ni-!’

sign has Western-style twin rooms. Meals include local seafood; rates with

board drop when uni season finishes in September. The owners offer free

shuttle service anywhere within a 5km radius (including the ferry terminal).

5 Eating

o Robata Chidori

SEAFOOD

$

(炉ばたちどり; %0163-86-2130; 1115-3 Tonnai; mains ¥800-1600; h11am-9.30pm, closed

irregularly Sep-May)

Chidori does real robata-yaki, charcoal grilling in a pit built into the table.

The speciality of the house is hokke chanchan-yaki (ホッケチャンチャン

焼; ¥1000) – island-caught Okhotsk atka mackerel grilled with miso. The

ika-teppō-yaki (いか鉄砲焼; stuffed and grilled squid; ¥1000) is good, too.

The restaurant is along the waterfront in Kafuka, about five minutes’ walk

from the ferry terminal.

Kaisen-dokoro Atoi

SEAFOOD

$$

( MAP ; 海鮮処あとい; %0163-87-2284; Funadormarimura; mains ¥1500-4000; h11am-2.30pm

Apr-Sep; p)

Run by the island’s fishing collective (and closed the moment the sea urchin

season ends), Atoi serves generously portioned kaisen-don (raw seafood

over rice) using locally caught uni (sea urchin) and ebi (shrimp). There’s a

picture menu.

8 Information

Tourist Information Counter (%0163-86-2655; www.rebun-island.jp; h8am-5pm mid-Apr–Oct) Pick up trail maps and bus schedules in English. The staff, who

usually speak some English, can assist with bookings, too. Open until the

last ferry departs.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Electric hybrid bicycles (¥700 per hour) – good for getting up the hills – are

available for hire outside the ferry terminal.

BUS

Five to six buses daily run along the island’s east coast from Kafuka in the

south to Sukotonmisaki in the north (¥1220, one hour). There are also five

buses daily (three on weekends) to the southern tip at Shiretoko (¥290, 10

minutes). Note that there is a gap in the middle of the afternoon; pick up a

bus schedule (available in English) at the tourist information counter and

plan accordingly – especially if you have a ferry to catch later.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Rental cars (from ¥7000 for three hours) and scooters (¥1000 per hour;

¥1500 per hour for 90cc two-seater) can be picked up just outside the ferry

terminal. Note that rates are higher than elsewhere in Hokkaidō, but usually

include gas and extra insurance. Some places only rent to Japanese-speakers,

as they want understanding of the contract and rules.

THE BLAKISTON LINE

It was an Englishman, Thomas Blakiston, who first noticed that the native animals of Hokkaidō

are different species from those on the southern side of the Tsugaru Strait on Honshū. Blakiston

lived in Japan from 1861 to 1884, spending most of his time in Hokkaidō in Hakodate, and his

name is now used to describe the border in the distribution of animal species between Hokkaidō

and the rest of Japan – ‘the Blakiston Line’.

While Hokkaidō had land bridges to north Asia via Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands, southern

Japan’s land bridges primarily connected it to the Korean Peninsula. Bears found on Honshū are

Asiatic black bears while Hokkaidō’s bears are Ussuri brown bears, found in northern Asia. On

the southern side of the straits, Japanese macaque monkeys are found on Honshū as far north as

Aomori, but not in Hokkaidō. Among other species north of the Blakiston Line are Siberian

chipmunks, Hokkaidō red squirrels, the ezo-jika (Hokkaidō deer), kita-kitsune (northern fox),

northern pika and Blakiston’s fish owl.

EASTERN HOKKAIDŌ

Eastern Hokkaidō (道東; Dō-tō) is a harsh yet hauntingly beautiful

landscape that has been shaped by volcanoes and vast temperature extremes.

In the winter months, dramatic ice floes in the Sea of Okhotsk can be seen

from the decks of ice-breakers off the coast of Abashiri. Both Akan National

Park and Shiretoko National Park, the latter a World Heritage Site, are best

explored during the mild summers when there are great hiking opportunities.

Kushiro Wetlands National Park offers the chance to see the red-crowned

white crane, the symbol of longevity in Japan.

8 Getting There & Around

AIR

Eastern Hokkaidō has three airports useful to travellers:

Kushiro Airport In Kushiro, convenient for Akan National Park and Kushiro

Wetlands National Park; flights to/from Sapporo and Tokyo.

Memanbetsu Airport Near Abashiri and convenient for Shari and Shiretoko

National Park; flights to/from Sapporo, Tokyo and Nagoya.

Tokachi Obihiro Airport In Tokachi; flights to/from Tokyo.

BUS

Highway buses run from Sapporo Eki-mae Bus Terminal to major hubs in

eastern Hokkaidō, including Abashiri, Shari, Utoro (Shiretoko National

Park), Kushiro and Obihiro.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

If there is anywhere you need a car in Hokkaidō, it is Dō-tō. While there are

buses running most places, they are infrequent (and almost nonexistent from

November to March). There’s little traffic out this way and almost

everywhere offers free parking.

TRAIN

The following JR Limited Express trains run from Sapporo to eastern

Hokkaidō:

Okhotsk Liner For Abashiri (¥9910, 5½ hours, four daily)

Super Ōzora Liner Six daily for Obihiro (¥6700, 2¾ hours) and Kushiro

(¥9370, four hours)

The JR Senmō line runs north–south between Abashiri and Kushiro, via

Kawayu Onsen (for Akan National Park) and Shiretoko-Shari (for Shiretoko

National Park).

Abashiri 網走

%0152 / POP 39,000

To the Japanese, Abashiri (網走) is as synonymous with the word ‘prison’ as

Alcatraz is to Americans – the mere mention can send a chill, implying

gruelling punishment, harsh treatment, and hopelessness. Winters here are

harsh, too: Abashiri is also known for its frozen seas, which can be explored

on ice-breakers. Throughout the warmer months, the city serves as a

jumping-off point for both Akan National Park and Shiretoko National Park.

1 Sights & Activities

Abashiri Prison Museum

MUSEUM

(網走監獄博物館; %0152-45-2411; www.kangoku.jp; 1-1 Yobito; adult/child/student

¥1080/540/750; h8.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Mar)

Some of the original Meijiera prison buildings were restored and relocated to

this oddly pleasant museum park. The Kangoku Hakubutsukan (penal

museum) here details the reasons this historic prison was so feared: a

sentence to Abashiri was a sentence to hard labour, as Abashiri prisoners laid

much of the groundwork for Hokkaidō’s infrastructure.

Hokkaidō Museum of Northern Peoples

MUSEUM

(北海道立北方民族博物館; Hoppō-minzoku Hakubutsukan; %0152-45-3888;

www.hoppohm.org; 309-1 Shiomi; adult/student/child ¥550/200/free; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Jun, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep)

The examples here of traditional dress, tools and musical instruments from

the indigenous cultures of the northern latitudes demonstrate the

resourcefulness and joy that can be found in some of the world’s harshest

climates. Highlights include video footage of musical performances and

celebrations shown on TV monitors around the museum.

o Aurora

CRUISE

(おーろら; %0152-43-6000; www.ms-aurora.com; adult/child ¥3300/1650; h9am-6pm)

From 20 January to 31 March, the ice-breaker Aurora departs four to six

times a day from Abashiri port for one-hour cruises into the frozen Sea of

Okhotsk. Dress warmly.

Buses depart from stop 1 in front of JR Abashiri Station for the Aurora

boarding dock.

z Festivals & Events

Okhotsk Drift Ice Festival

CULTURAL

(オホーツク流氷まつり; hmid-Feb)

An opportunity to celebrate the cold! Ice sculptures and statues, illuminated

at night, plus lots of warm sake to keep your blood flowing.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Business hotels line the road in front of JR Abashiri Station, though most are

pretty shabby. There are nicer options near scenic Notoro-ko, if you’re not

relying on public transport.

There’s a handful of restaurants on the main drag running in front of JR

Abashiri Station, although they are not worth going out of the way for.

Minshuku Lamp

MINSHUKU

$

(民宿ランプ; %0152-43-3928; 3-3-9 Shin-machi; per person ¥2800; pW)

Minshuku Lamp is well worn around the edges but the tatami rooms and

shared facilities are clean, the owners are very friendly and the hallways are

decorated with photos of old steam locomotives. There’s a coin laundry and

rental bicycles (¥1000 per day) too. Book ahead or ask the tourist

information office to call for you.

It’s a 10-minute walk from JR Abashiri Station, but can be tricky to find,

as you’ll have to walk over the train tracks. Ask the information office for

directions.

Toyoko Inn Okhotsk Abashiri Eki-mae

HOTEL

$$

(東横インオホーツク網走駅前; %0152-45-1043; www.toyoko-inn.com; 1-3-3 Shin-

machi; s/d from ¥4160/7200; pnaiW)

Directly opposite JR Abashiri Station, this is the nicest of Abashiri’s

business hotels. Simple, but clean and convenient, with free breakfast.

Abashiri Bīru-kan

PUB FOOD

$$

(網走ビール館; %0152-41-0008; www.takahasi.co.jp/beer/yakiniku; S2W4-1-2; dishes ¥500-1800, beers from ¥400; h5-11pm)

Traditionalists should put aside all preconceptions when visiting this

brewery-restaurant. The yakiniku (grilled meat) served here is pretty good.

Abashiri Beer’s signature brew is the Ryūhyō (drift ice) Draft, made with

melted sea ice and coloured (with algae) acid blue.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (%0152-43-4261; www.abakanko.jp/en; hnoon-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) English-language maps and bus schedules. There’s usually

someone who can speak English and help with booking accommodation and

tours. Inside JR Abashiri Station.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Memanbetsu Airport (女満別空港; %0152-74-3115; http://mmb-

airport.co.jp.e.ug.hp.transer.com; 201−3 Memanbetsu, Abashiri), 15km south of the city

centre, is the nearest airport, with flights to/from Sapporo, Tokyo, Nagoya

and Osaka. Airport buses (¥910, 35 minutes) depart from bus stop 3 in front

of JR Abashiri Station and are timed to arrive 40 minutes before plane

departures.

BUS

Abashiri Bus (網走バス; %0152-43-4101; www.abashiribus.com) runs nine buses

daily (including one night bus) between Abashiri Bus Terminal (網走バス

ターミナル; %0152-43-2606; S2W1-15; h6.40am-6pm) and Sapporo (¥6390, six

hours). Reservations required.

From Abashiri, buses run to Shari (¥1200 to ¥1400, one hour) and Utoro

Onsen (¥2600, two hours).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

There are several car rental shops around JR Abashiri Station, including JR

Hokkaido Rent-a-car (JR北海道レンタカー; %0152-43-6197; www.jrh-rentacar.jp;

2-2 Shin-machi; h8am-5pm). There are also counters at Memanbetsu Airport.

TRAIN

JR Limited Express Okhotsk Liner trains run four times daily between

Abashiri and Asahikawa (¥7450, four hours), continuing on to Sapporo

(¥9390, 5½ hours).

The JR Senmō main line runs between Abashiri and Kushiro (¥3670, 3½

hours, five to seven daily). On the way it passes through Shiretoko-Shari

(¥840, 50 minutes), the closest station to Shiretoko National Park, and

through Kawayu Onsen (¥1640, 1½ hours) in Akan National Park.

8 Getting Around

From June to October, a tourist-loop bus runs five to six times a day between

the bus and train stations and the Abashiri Prison Museum, the Okhotsk

Drift Ice Museum and the Hokkaidō Museum of Northern Peoples, which

are a few kilometres southwest of town. Pick up a schedule at the tourist

information office. A day pass costs ¥800/400 per adult/child.

THE SEA OF OKHOTSK

The Sea of Okhotsk falls between Sakhalin (formerly known as Karafu-tō and part of Japan

from 1905 to 1945), a long stretch of eastern Siberia, the Kamchatka Peninsula, the Kuril

Islands and Hokkaidō. There are also many, many small, uninhabited islands here that are

important breeding grounds for spotted seals and seabirds. The sea, which gets its name from

the first Russian settlement in the Far East, is the coldest in East Asia and freezes as far south as

Hokkaidō. In February, the coldest month, visitors come to Abashiri and Rausu to ride ice-

breakers through the drift ice, hoping to spot seal pups on the ice.

This is just about as remote as it gets in Hokkaidō: the Okhotsk Line, the road that connects

Wakkanai to Abashiri, is one long, lonely stretch of mostly nothingness. No towns, no traffic

lights, few cars and only wind-battered coastline. For Tokyo drivers this is a dream come true

and will shatter any thoughts you had that Japan is a densely populated, crowded country.

Shari 斜里

%0152 / POP 11,900

The small town of Shari (斜里) sits on the coast about 40km east of Abashiri

and acts as a gateway to Shiretoko National Park. JR Shiretoko-Shari is the

closest train station to the World Heritage Site, but you’re still about an hour

by bus or car from the entrance to the national park.

1 Sights & Activities

Shari-dake

HIKING

(斜里岳)

Shari-dake (1547m), south of town, is a spectacular volcanic cone and one of

Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains. Allow seven to eight hours for the return

hike, which involves plenty of stream crossings plus spots with ropes and

chains to help you. The views from the top are superb. Go between June and

October, take supplies and use a bear bell.

Either use your own wheels to get to the trailhead (parking ¥500) at the

Seigaku-sō (清岳荘) hut at 680m, or hop off the train at JR Kiyosato (清里)

station and take a taxi to the trailhead (¥4000, 30 minutes). If you get stuck,

you can stay at the Kiyodake-sō for ¥1000 between June and September, but

there are no meals.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are some eating options clustered around the train station.

Clione Guesthouse & Campground

CAMPGROUND

$

(クリオネキャンプ場ゲストハウス; %0152-23-5108; www.campclione.jp; 4 Nishi;

dm/r/cabin ¥1500/3000/4400; pnW)

Named after the area’s celebrity mollusc, this lovely campground and

guesthouse offers an inexpensive overnight on the outskirts of Shari. It is

quite strict about the rules; for example, no bathing happens after 10pm.

Bungalows are simple and (unless you reserve a heater) unheated. But the

onsen is toasty and the common areas inviting.

Minshuku Yumoto-kan

MINSHUKU

$

(民宿湯元館; %0152-23-3486; www.yumotokan.info; 13-11 Nishi-machi; s/d from ¥4480/7960;

pW)

This popular spot has a mountain-lodge vibe, Japanese-style rooms to

accommodate different sized groups and an onsen bath (which nonguests can

use for ¥400 between 7am and 8pm). Breakfast (¥500) is excellent. Yumoto-

kan is a 20-minute walk from JR Shiretoko-Shari Station.

Route Inn Grantia Shiretoko-Shari Eki Mae

HOTEL

$$

(ルートイングランティア知床 斜里駅前; %0152-22-1700; www.hotel-

grantia.co.jp/shiretoko; 16-10 Minato-machi; s/tw from ¥8900/15,500; pnaiW)

This is a convenient place to stay if you’re relying on public transport – it’s

right in front of the train and bus stations in Shari. It’s a modern tower hotel

with comfortable rooms and an onsen; breakfast is ¥1000.

GVO

BAR

$$

( MAP ; %0152-24-3040; www.infosnow.ne.jp/~bm/gvo; 91-5 Nishi Utoro; mains ¥1300-1700; h11am-2.30pm & 6pm-11pm Sep-Mar; p)

Guitars, motorcycles, CDs and 1960s folk all grace this cafe that’s all about

the sea urchin. If you’ve been craving sea urchin curry, sea urchin pasta, or

sea urchin pretty-much-anything this is the place. Yet it’s also a great spot

for cakes and coffee, or a nice place to unwind in the evening, too.

GVO stands for ‘Guitar’ and ‘VOcals’. Live music is here, and it does

open mics as well.

8 Information

Tourist Information Centre (%0152-23-2424; h8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct & Feb) Maps,

bus timetables and brochures; inside JR Shiretoko-Shari Station.

8 Getting There & Away

Infrequent trains run on the JR Senmō main line between Shiretoko-Shari

and Abashiri (¥840, 50 minutes), and between Shiretoko-Shari and Kushiro

(¥2810, 2½ hours). Between Shari and Kushiro is Kawayu Onsen (¥930, 45

minutes) in Akan National Park.

There are between five and eight buses daily between Shari and Utoro

Onsen (¥1650, 50 minutes) in Shiretoko National Park. The bus terminal is

right across from the train station.

WORTH A TRIP

ALONG THE JR SENMŌ LINE

Travellers for whom train travel is part of the journey – rather than just a means to get around –

will want to experience the JR Senmō line. It travels from Abashiri to Kushiro, passing some

stunning scenery along the way: in summer, fields of flowers and the marshes of Kushiro

Wetlands National Park; in winter, plains of glistening white snow and the icy sea.

Alight at Gensei-kaen Station for Koshimizu Gensei-kaen (小清水原生花園; %0152-63-

4187; h8.30am-5.30pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct & Apr) F, a spectacular 20km stretch of

wildflowers along the coast between Abashiri and Shari. Visit in early summer and catch it at its

peak, when more than 40 species of flowers bloom.

The line and its stations were constructed in the 1920s and ‘30s and many original stations

remain. Few people actually take the Senmō line because they need to – it’s usually only two

cars long. Many stations are now unstaffed and have turned their former offices and waiting

rooms into charming cafes.

Worth a visit are Orchard Grass, at Kawayu Onsen, and Teishaba (停車場; %0152-46-2410;

Kita-Hama Station; drinks from ¥430, lunch mains ¥750-1200; h11am-7pm Wed-Mon), inside

the 90-year-old Kita-Hama Station, one stop west of Gensei-kaen. The latter is decked out to

look like a vintage rail car, with wood and burgundy-velour booths and rotating fans overhead.

With views of both the Sea of Okhotsk and the trains coming and going, it is an attractive place

for a coffee break.

Shiretoko National Park 知床国立公園

Shiretoko-hantō, the peninsula that makes up Shiretoko National Park (知床

国立公園), was known in Ainu as ‘the end of the world’. This magnificent

stretch of land, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is one of Japan’s last

remaining sections of true wilderness. It’s mostly a draw for keen hikers;

however, there are also some easier treks around lakes and to waterfalls,

nature cruises up the coast and hidden hot springs in the woods. The park

has two access points, at Utoro (ウトロ) on the northwestern side of the

peninsula, and at Rausu (羅臼) on its southeastern side.

Shiretoko National Park

1 Sights

1 Shiretoko Pass

B4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

2 Aurora Cruises

A4

Godzilla-Iwa Sightseeing

(see 2)

3 Iwaobetsu Onsen

B4

4 Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki

B3

5 Kuma-no-yu

B5

Rausu-dake

(see 3)

6 Shiretoko Traverse

B4

7 Shiretoko-go-ko Nature Trail

B3

4 Sleeping

8 Marumi

B5

Oyado Kiraku

(see 2)

9 Rausu Dai-Ichi Hotel

B5

Rausu Onsen Campground

(see 5)

Shūchō no Ie

(see 2)

5 Eating

10 GVO

A4

11 Rausu Maruo Hamada Shoten

B5

8 Transport

Utoro Michi-no-eki

(see 12)

12 Utoro Onsen Bus Terminal

A4

1 Sights & Activities

Shiretoko Pass

VIEWPOINT

( MAP ; 知床峠)

Rte 334, where it traverses the Shiretoko Pass, is considered one of Japan’s

most scenic stretches of road. It winds about 30km through the foothills of

Rausu-dake between Utoro and Rausu, passing groves of Erman’s birch and

Japanese stone pines. There’s a lookout point at 740m with parking. The

road closes from November to April.

Shiretoko National Park | AZUKI25/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Shiretoko Traverse

HIKING

( MAP ; hJul-Sep)

The classic traverse is a two-day hike that stretches for 25km from

Iwaobetsu Onsen ( MAP ; 岩尾別温泉) F to Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki. You’ll

need to be properly equipped to tackle this route. Starting from the trailhead

at Iwaobetsu Onsen, you’ll climb Rausu-dake (羅臼岳; 1660m), traverse

along the top to Iō-zan (硫黄山; 1563m), then descend to Kamuiwakka-yu-

no-taki, a ‘waterfall onsen’.

There are four camping areas along the top that have steel food bins (think

bears!). Don’t underestimate the difficulty of the terrain. The last bit of this

track has been reopened. Drop in at the Shiretoko Nature Centre for the

latest on conditions and advise staff there of your intentions. The trail is

officially open from mid-June through the September holiday period, though

snow and extreme conditions make these shoulders inadvisable for all but

the most extreme (and prepared) hikers.

Kuma-no-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; 熊の湯; h7am-5am) F

A few kilometres up and inland from Rausu, this pair of steaming pools on

the far side of the river is superb. Park by the road and cross the bridge.

Some locals come every day, and the facilities are maintained by a dedicated

team of volunteers. The onsen is segregated by sex and has changing

facilities.

Rausu-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 羅臼岳)

One of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains, Rausu-dake (1660m) makes a great

day hike, best tackled from the trailhead at Iwaobetsu Onsen (岩尾別温泉;

340m). Allow seven to nine hours for the 7km return trip. From the top there

are stunning views of one of the Northern Territories Southern Kuril Islands

(Disputed Territories).

The trailhead is 4km from the closest bus stop at Iwaobetsu, so without

your own wheels you’ll have to walk (a taxi from Utoro Onsen costs ¥3000

to ¥4000). The trail officially opens 1 July (though there may still be snow

then) and closes when snow begins to fall mid-November. There’s a route

from Rausu as well, but it’s more challenging.

Shiretoko-go-ko Nature Trail

WALKING

( MAP ; 知床五湖; www.goko.go.jp; h7.30am-6pm late Apr-late Nov) This small area of five lakes (go-ko) is the most accessible part of Shiretoko,

and thus the most popular. Around Ichi-ko (Lake One), there’s an 800m-

long (40-minute return) elevated boardwalk protected by an electric fence (to

keep bears off, which do appear around here sometimes) on which anyone

can stroll.

There’s a ground path (adult/child ¥250/100, 1½ hours, 3km) around the

other four lakes; however, the number of people that can enter is limited.

You’ll need to first submit an application at the Shiretoko-go-ko Park

Service Centre and, while you’re waiting your turn, watch a safety video on

bears.

Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki

ONSEN

( MAP ; カムイワッカ湯の滝; hJun-Oct) F

On the west side of the peninsula, literally at the end of the road, this

waterfall is warmed by hot springs to 30°C. You can scale the rock bed

100m to a soaking pool (but not any further, as the rest is roped off). Unless

by some luck you’ve got this all to yourself, wear a swimsuit.

SHIRETOKO NATURE CRUISES

A number of companies operate cruises up the coasts of the peninsula, to see killer whales,

white-tailed sea eagles and possibly even higuma (brown bears) prowling along the shore. The

season for this is May through October. Both Aurora Cruises ( MAP ; おーろら; %0152-24-

2147; www.ms-aurora.com/shiretoko/en; 107 Utoro-higashi, Shari-chō) and Godzilla-Iwa Sightseeing ( MAP ; ゴジラ岩観光; %0152-24-3060; www.kamuiwakka.jp; 51 Utoro-higashi,

Shari-chō) offer comparable trips, of either 90 minutes (as far as Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki) or

3½ hours (all the way to the end of the cape). Godzilla-Iwa Sightseeing also runs hour-long

cruises among the drift ice from Rausu between late January and mid-April. If you’re lucky

you’ll see spotted seals chilling on the ice.

4 Sleeping

Both Utoro and Rausu have pensions, minshuku and hotels. If you’re relying

on public transport, Utoro makes for a better base, as it’s more of a

condensed tourist centre; Rausu is a fishing town that sprawls down the

coast. There are a few undeveloped campgrounds along the mountain trails,

but you will need to be entirely self-sufficient.

Shūchō no Ie

GUESTHOUSE

$

( MAP ; 酋長の家; %0152-24-2742; www.big-hokkaido.com/shuuchoo-no-ie; 124 Utoro-higashi; s/d incl 2 meals from ¥9500/17,000; pna)

The standard Japanese inn-style rooms are basic, but what you’re here for is

the chance to spend some time learning about the Ainu, the indigenous

people of Hokkaidō. This place is a chief’s house, with a shop selling Ainu-

made gifts and a restaurant (guests only) serving traditional Ainu fare.

Little English is spoken but the welcome is warm and, if you’re lucky, the

charming owner might demonstrate how her Ainu mukkuri (mouth harp)

works.

Rausu Onsen Campground

CAMPGROUND

$

( MAP ; 羅臼温泉キャンプ場; %0153-87-2126; Yunosawa-chō; per person ¥300; hJun-Oct)

This basic campground sits at the base of Rausudake, at the trailhead for the

very challenging Yunosawa trail up the mountain. It’s a short walk from here

to the hot waters of Kuma-no-yu and Rausu Onsen. No tents are available

for rent – bring your own.

Rausu Dai-Ichi Hotel

HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; らうす第一ホテル; %0153-87-2259; www.rausu-daiichi-hotel.jp; Yunosawa-chō; s/d

¥10,410/14,340, incl 2 meals from ¥14,190/21,900; pW)

This is a cosy place in Rausu Onsen, just a few kilometres inland on the road

to Utoro. The Japanese-style rooms with private facilities are spacious,

there’s a large shared onsen bath with a rotemburo, and the friendly staff

speak a little English.

It’s best if you have your own wheels, though the Rausu–Utoro bus stops

across the street, at Rausu Onsen.

Oyado Kiraku

MINSHUKU

$$

( MAP ; お宿来羅玖; %0152-24-2550; 133 Utoro-nishi, Shari-chō; s/d ¥5000/10,000, incl 2 meals

¥7800/15,500; pnW)

A short walk from the Utoro Michi-no-eki road stop (and one bus stop

before the Utoro Onsen terminal), Kiraku is a good deal with tatami rooms,

shared facilities and tasty meals. The staff at the information counter at the

Utoro Michi-no-eki will call for you, but it pays to book ahead in summer.

Marumi

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP ; 羅臼の宿まるみ; %0153-88-1313; www.shiretoko-rausu.com; 24 Yagihama-chō; s/d

¥7960/11,600, incl 2 meals from ¥9960/18,000; pai)

Marumi prides itself on its gut-busting seafood banquets, making this a good

choice if you’ve worked up a calorie deficit in the mountains. The Japanese-

style rooms themselves are simple with shared facilities (you can upgrade

for an ocean view and an en-suite bath), but there’s an outdoor onsen facing

the waters.

The modern, concrete ryokan is 8km southwest of Rausu on Rte 335.

Marumi also does cruises to see whales and dolphins and, in winter, to see

the drift ice; enquire about packages when you book.

5 Eating

There is a handful of small eateries in Utoro and Rausu, mostly serving local

seafood (when in doubt, order kaisen-don; raw seafood on rice). Most have

colourful banners out front so they’re easy to spot. Rausu’s michi-no-eki

(road station) has a handy cheat sheet of restaurants in town and is also good

for picking up packaged food.

Rausu Maruo Hamada Shoten

SEAFOOD

$$

( MAP ; %0153-67-3111; www.rausu.co.jp; 361-5 Rebunchō; mains ¥1700; h10.30am-3pm Feb–mid-Oct; p)

Choose your crab and have it served, or go for the menu, either way it’s

delicious seafood in a building that’s four decades old. Note that the hours

can be a bit wonky – your best bet is to call before heading over.

NORTHERN TERRITORIES DISPUTE

A volcanic archipelago, the Kuril Islands stretch for 1300km from Kamchatka, Russia, towards

Hokkaidō, separating the Sea of Okhotsk from the Pacific Ocean. The closest, the Habomai

islets, uninhabited apart from a Russian border guard outpost, are barely 10km from Hokkaidō’s

easternmost point in Nemuro. The Habomai islets, along with three other islands in the

southernmost Kurils, are known as the Northern Territories in Japan, and are the subject of a

territorial dispute with Russia.

There have been tit-for-tat squabbles over who owned what between Japan and Russia since

the early 1800s. Prior to WWII the islands belonged to Japan. At the close of the war, on 15

August 1945, Japan agreed to the terms of surrender in the Potsdam Declaration; however,

Russia was not party to that agreement and had only just declared war on Japan on 9 August.

Russian military forces started their invasion of the Kuril Islands on 18 August, and have

occupied them since.

The ongoing dispute has blighted the Japan–Russia relationship ever since, to the point that

the two countries have yet to sign a post-WWII peace treaty. Although sparsely populated, the

Kurils have valuable mineral deposits, possibly oil and gas reserves, and are surrounded by rich

fishing grounds.

8 Information

Shiretoko National Park has several excellent information centres with

knowledgeable staff. Whatever your plans are – from multiday treks to

onsen soaks – stop into one of the centres to get the latest information on

trail and road conditions, weather warnings and bear sightings. The

information will be posted in English or in easy-to-understand images.

Rausu Visitor Centre (羅臼ビジターセンター; %0153-87-2828; www.rausu-vc.jp;

6-27 Yunosawa-chō; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr, closed Mon Oct-Jun) On the

Rausu side of the peninsula, on Rte 334. Helpful staff.

Rusa Field House (ルサフィールドハウス; %0153-89-2722; http://shiretoko-

whc.jp/rfh; 8 Kita-hama; h9am-5pm May-Oct, closed Tue) This centre offers support for

the truly intrepid and experienced, who plan to trek or kayak out to

Shiretoko-misaki. If you have such aspirations, absolutely check in here

first. Located on Rte 87, 13km northeast of Rausu, up the coast.

Shiretoko Nature Centre (知床自然センター; %0152-24-2114;

http://center.shiretoko.or.jp/en; h8am-5.30pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-4pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr; c) Run by the Shiretoko Nature Foundation, this is the largest visitor centre;

located 5km past Utoro.

Shiretoko-go-ko Park Service Centre (知床五湖パークサービスセン

ター; %0152-24-2306; www.utopia-shiretoko.co.jp; h7.30am-6.30pm May-Jul, to 6pm Aug, to 5pm Sep, to 4pm Oct, to 3pm mid-Nov) Information and applications for the Shiretoko-go-ko Nature Trail.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Memanbetsu Airport is the most convenient for Shiretoko. Between mid-

June and mid-October, three Shari Airport Liner buses depart a few times

daily from Memanbetsu Airport, via Abashiri Station, for Shari (¥2100, 1½

hours) and Utoro (¥3300, two hours).

BUS

There is a night bus (one way/round trip ¥8230/15,430) from Sapporo’s

Chūō bus terminal departing at 11.15pm for Utoro Onsen Bus Terminal (

MAP ; ウトロ温泉バスターミナル; %0152-24-2054; 107 Utoro-nishi, Shari-chō;

h8.30am-4pm late Apr-Oct); reservations required. The return bus is at 9.20am.

The bus also stops at the Utoro Michi-no-eki ( MAP ; ウトロ道の駅; %0152-22-

5000; h8.30am-6.30pm May-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr), one stop before arrival at Utoro

bus terminal.

From May to October there are seven buses daily between Shari and

Utoro Onsen (¥1650, 50 minutes), continuing to the Shiretoko Nature Centre

(¥1800, 10 minutes), Iwaobetsu (¥1960, 15 minutes) and Shiretoko-go-ko

(¥2000, 25 minutes); buses are timed to meet trains coming from Abashiri

and Kushiro.

Daily buses also run between Rausu and Kushiro (¥4850, 3½ hours),

departing from the bus stop behind the Rausu Michi-no-eki.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

While it’s possible to get around by public transport, buses are infrequent, so

having your own wheels is better. Pick up a rental in Abashiri or Kushiro,

before heading to the park.

8 Getting Around

BUS

A shuttle bus runs from Utoro Onsen via Shiretoko Nature Centre for

Shiretoko-go-ko (¥1980, 25 minutes) and Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki (¥1400,

one hour) from 1 August to 25 August and again over the September holiday

period (around the third week of the month).

From June through October, there are four buses daily between Utoro

Onsen and Rausu Akan Bus Station (¥1380, 50 minutes) via the dramatic

Shiretoko Pass.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

When the summer shuttle bus is in operation, the road from Shiretoko-go-ko

to Kamuiwakkayu-no-taki is closed to private traffic. Daily road closures

and conditions are posted at the Shiretoko Nature Centre. Come November,

beware of early snow-stopping traffic.

AINU: HOKKAIDŌ’S INDIGENOUS PEOPLE

The Ainu draw their ancestry back to the earliest settlers of Hokkaidō, while a distinct Ainu

culture is believed to have emerged around 700 years ago. They were hunters, fishers and

gatherers, settling along salmon runs and coastal plains. Men wore long, bushy beards and

women had distinctive blue tattoos on their hands and faces – especially around the lips, which

gave them the appearance of always smiling.

Their gods, called kamuy, were found in the natural world, in the rocks and trees and

especially in the animals around them. Of all their gods, the most important was kim-un kamuy,

the god of the mountains – known in Japanese as higuma (Ussuri brown bear). Ritual

ceremonies, called iyomante, were held to send spirits – of sacrificed bear cubs but also of

plants and broken pots – back to the realm of the gods. Days began with prayer to the deity of

fire, apehuci kamuy, who resided in the hearth.

While the Japanese and the Ainu had been trading partners for centuries, as the Japanese

empire grew in military and economic might, the balance of power gradually shifted in favour

of the southern nation. Following the formal annexation of Hokkaidō in 1869, the new Meiji

government signed the Hokkaidō Former Aborigines Protection Act in 1899. Though well-

meaning in name, it banned traditional practices, such as hunting and tattooing, along with the

Ainu language. Ainu were given plots of land (typically small and ill-suited to cultivation) and

instructed to take up the lives of sedentary farmers. Those who held out suffered discrimination;

many who managed to assimilate feared being ‘outed’, leading many Ainu to bury their

ancestry as deeply as possible.

Today there are roughly 25,000 people in Japan who claim Ainu descent. With the general

cultural upheavals of the 1960s, more and more began to speak out against entrenched

discrimination and poverty, finding pride and common cause with other indigenous peoples

fighting for recognition and justice around the world. A number of community centres were

founded; this coincided with a period of increased domestic tourism to Hokkaidō, and many

Ainu found work performing their culture for tourists – singing folk songs for tour groups and

selling traditional handicrafts. For some members of the community this was a breakthrough, an

opportunity to draw positive recognition to their culture and, perhaps more importantly, to make

a living. For others, these watered-down cultural displays were at best a distraction from the

social justice movement and, at worst, a step backwards.

The way forward for Ainu descendants remains a thorny path. There are still battles being

fought on the political front: after decades of lobbying, the Former Aborigines Protection Act

was repealed in 1997, and as recently as 2009 activists finally succeeded in winning the passing

of a Diet (Japan’s national parliamentary body) resolution recognising the Ainu as an

indigenous people of Japan.

There is also the question of what it means to be Ainu. There are only a handful of people

who can still speak the language (though there are radio programs to learn), and traditional

cultural practices can feel frozen in the past, especially to the younger generation who were

raised like modern teens. There are, however, artists, musicians and chefs tinkering with the old

ways, breathing new life into them. By all means, if you’re able to catch acts like Oki Dub Ainu

Band (www.tonkori.com) or Marewrew (www.facebook.com/marewrew) live, do!

Akan National Park, which has Ainu kotan (villages) in both Akanko Onsen and Kawayu

Onsen, is the best place in Hokkaidō to see Ainu culture in a contemporary context. The

villages, with their folklore museums and restaurants serving Ainu dishes, are definitely touristy

– though that is the modern reality. Akanko Onsen has a stage, Ikor, for traditional folk music

performances; Kawayu Onsen is the home base of modern Ainu musician Atuy, who runs the

fantastic pension (and occasional performance space) Marukibune.

If you’re interested in digging deeper, visit the Hokkaidō Ainu Center in Sapporo. In addition

to exhibitions on history and culture, there is a reading room with pretty much every book

published in English on the Ainu.

Akan National Park 阿寒国立公園

Akan National Park (阿寒国立公園), designated in 1934 and covering 905

sq km, was one of Japan’s first national parks. It’s home to volcanic peaks,

several large caldera lakes, thick forests of Sakhalin spruce, herds of sika

deer, rejuvenating onsen and a small Ainu kotan (village). While the

mountains are obviously a draw for hikers, those less inclined (and travelling

by car) can drive out to a number of excellent lookout points around the

park.

Akan National Park

1 Top Sights

1 Ainu Kotan

B4

2 Kussharo-ko

D1

3 Mashū-ko

E2

1 Sights

4 Bihoro Pass

C2

5 Iō-zan

D2

6 Museum of Ainu Folklore

D2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Kotan-yu

D2

8 Mashū-dake Trail

E3

9 Me-Akan-dake

A4

10 O-Akan-dake

B4

11 Onneto Nature Trail

A4

4 Sleeping

12 Kussharo-Genya Youth Guesthouse

D3

Marukibune

(see 7)

13 Onsen Minshuku Mako

D3

5 Eating

Marukibune Restaurant

(see 7)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

14 Orchard Grass

D2

4 Sleeping

There are campgrounds, hostels, minshuku and resort-style onsen hotels

here. Note that many of the hotels have seen better days – book only if the

price is right. Many budget places, such as campgrounds and hostels, are

only open in the summer.

5 Eating

Akan National Park is home to most of the few restaurants in Japan that

serve dishes of Ainu origin. Look for ruibe (ルイベ), salmon that has been

left out in the Hokkaidō midwinter freeze, sliced up sashimi style, and then

served with soy sauce and water peppers; pocche (ポッチェ), traditional

dumplings made from fermented potato mash; and ohaw (オハウ), a soup of

salmon or venison and wild vegetables.

8 Getting There & Away

Kushiro and Abashiri are the main gateways to the park. There are two

stations on the JR Senmō line, which runs between Kushiro and Shiretoko-

Shari, that are convenient for Kawayu Onsen: Kawayu Station and Mashū

Station. For Akanko Onsen, catch a bus from Kushiro, Abashiri or

Asahikawa.

8 Getting Around

Akan Bus (阿寒バス; %0154-37-2221; www.akanbus.co.jp/foreign/en) does sightseeing runs (¥4600 to ¥5400 per person, nine hours) into the Akan area from

Kushiro, stopping at Mashū-ko Viewpoint 1 as well as other viewpoints

before returning to Kushiro. From April to October, a bus (one way ¥570)

runs from Mashū-ko Station to the Viewpoint 1, waiting 30 minutes before

returning. A Passport-only bus runs from Kawayu Onsen to the viewpoint

between July and September.

While it is possible to get around the park with the limited public

transport, you will have to be very mindful of timetables and plan on wasting

lots of time, as buses and trains are infrequent, even during the peak summer

season. It is highly recommended that you pick up a rental car in either

Kushiro or Abashiri.

Akanko Onsen 阿寒湖温泉

%0154 / POP 1350

The resort town of Akanko Onsen (阿寒湖温泉), in the western part of

Akan National Park, is on the southern shores of Akan-ko. In addition to

lakefront vistas and hot springs, Akanko is known for two things: marimo, a

rare kind of algae that forms oddly perfect spheres; and its Ainu kotan

(village), Japan’s largest (though it’s not big). If you have your own

transport, you can use Akanko Onsen as a base for exploring the surrounding

mountains.

1 Sights

o Ainu Kotan

VILLAGE

( MAP ; アイヌコタン)

This collection of shops and households is actually the largest Ainu village

in Hokkaidō. Residents make a living promoting their culture: dancing on

the stage at Ikor, cooking pochie (fermented potato dumplings) in

restaurants, and selling wood and leather crafts, made with traditional

techniques and motifs.

In the evenings (May to November) there’s a procession around 8.30pm to

light torches around the village.

Ainu Folklore Museum

MUSEUM

(アイヌ文化伝承館, Ainu Bunka Denshō-kan; %0154-67-2727; www.akanainu.jp/; 4-7-19

Akanko Onsen; h10am-9pm; p) F

At the top of the hill in the Ainu kotan, this small museum has changing

exhibitions of contemporary Ainu artisan work, and sometimes thought-

provoking shows. There are some traditional dwellings here, too.

Akan Kohan Eco-Museum Centre

MUSEUM

(阿寒湖畔エコミュージアムセンター; %0154-67-4100;

http://business4.plala.or.jp/akan-eco; 1-1-1 Akanko Onsen, Akan-chō; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon) F

At the eastern edge of town, this centre has exhibitions on local flora and

fauna, including marimo in aquarium tanks. It also has hiking maps in

English and info on trail conditions and bear sightings.

Behind the centre, a trail makes a shaded, breezy loop out to Akan-ko and

back through the forest to some volcanic bubbling clay pools (called bokke).

The 3km walk takes about 40 minutes round-trip.

2 Activities

A number of hotels open their hot-spring baths to nonguests for a fee (¥500

to ¥1620); the tourist information office has a list. The town has been

pushing other activities as well, such as fishing, kayaking, and adventure

trekking. Info on all of these are available at the tourist information office or

at Tsuruga Adventure. At the larger hotels, you can speak with the concierge.

o Me-Akan-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 雌阿寒岳, Female Mountain)

The highest mountain in the park, Me-Akan-dake (1499m) is an active

volcano that is one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains. There are three trails

up it, though at the time of research the trail nearest Akanko Onsen was

closed because of typhoon damage. We recommend driving around to Me-

Akan Onsen (720m), from where it’s a 10km, two-hour hike to the top.

There are some steep bits, over loose volcanic gravel, but the views from

the top are spectacular. From the summit, you have the option to descend via

the Onneto Nature Trail and loop back to your vehicle at Me-Akan Onsen

(total journey four to five hours). Make sure you pick up a map.

Onneto Nature Trail

WALKING

( MAP ; オンネトーネイチャートレイル)

The picturesque lake of Onneto-ko, emerald green and in the mountains to

the west of Me-Akan-dake, can be circumnavigated on foot. There are

viewing platforms, toilets, parking, a restaurant and a number of other short

nature trails. Allow an hour to circle the lake (5km) and less than that for the

return trip to Yu-no-taki (湯の滝) waterfall.

There is a campsite at the southern end of the lake, but no public transport

here.

O-Akan-dake

HIKING

( MAP ; 雄阿寒岳, Male Mountain)

O-Akan-dake is the big volcano (1371m) to the east of Akanko Onsen. The

12.4km return hike to the top from the Takiguchi trail entrance at 450m takes

five to six hours. From the peak there are great views of Penketō-ko and

Panketō-ko, two small lakes formed when O-Akan’s eruption separated

them from Akan-ko.

If you’re after a short walk, consider walking just the first kilometre of the

trail, which passes alongside Tarō-ko (太郎湖) and Jirō-ko (次郎湖); the

return walk takes 30 minutes. There are three buses (¥220, 10 minutes) daily

between Akanko Onsen and the Takiguchi trailhead.

MARIMO

Akan-ko is legendary throughout Japan for its marimo (まりも; Cladophora aegagropila) ,

spheres of green algae that are both biologically intriguing – it takes as long as 200 years for

them to grow to the size of a baseball – and very, very kawaii (cute). Marimo became

endangered after being designated a national treasure: suddenly, everyone in Japan needed to

have one. Members of the Ainu community came to the rescue by starting the Marimo

Matsuri (まりも祭り), held in early October, which ceremonially returns marimo to Akan-ko.

There are marimo on display at the Akan Kohan Eco-Museum Centre. You can also take a

lake cruise (%0154-67-2511; www.akankisen.com; per person ¥1900; h6am-5pm May-Nov) out to the Marimo Observation Centre, where a monitor plays live footage of the velvety globes

underwater.

T Tours

Tsuruga Adventure

TREKKING

(%0154-65-6276; www.en.tsuruga-adventure.com; 4-6-10 Akanko Onsen; treks ¥7000-70,000; h9am-8pm)

This tour outfitter offers a wide variety of fishing, trekking, birding, and

other outdoor exploration options in the Akan park area.

4 Sleeping

Akan Lakeside Campsite

CAMPGROUND

$

(阿寒湖畔キャンプ場; %0154-67-3263; 5-1 Akan Onsen; campsites per adult/child ¥650/325;

hJun-Sep; p)

About a five-minute walk west of Akanko Onsen centre, across Rte 241

from the Ainu theatre, this campground has shady pitches, showers, laundry

facilities and an ashi-yu (foot bath) for relaxing tired feet.

Minshuku Kiri

MINSHUKU

$

(民宿桐; %0154-67-2755; www10.plala.or.jp/kiriminsyuku; 4-3-26 Akanko Onsen; r per person

with/without breakfast ¥4500/4000; pW)

This minshuku has tiny, no-fuss rooms and a great location – above a

souvenir shop a couple of minutes’ walk from the Ainu kotan. There is a

wooden onsen and a friendly welcome here, too.

o Akan Yuku-no-sato Tsuruga

RYOKAN

$$$

(あかん遊久の里鶴雅, Lake Akan Tsuruga Resort Spa; %0154-67-4000; www.tsuruga.com;

4-6-10 Akan Onsen; s/tw incl 2 meals from ¥17,900/31,400; paiW)

This old-style resort is the fanciest spot in town and sprawls over three

buildings. The honkan (main hall) rooms are the cheapest but don’t have

lake views; the rooms in the lavish bekkan (annexe) have en-suite outdoor

onsen baths. Everyone gets to use the two big bathhouses, one of which has

outdoor lake views. Look for sculptures from Ainu artists in the lobby.

This spot is ideal if you want a taste of the classic Japanese upscale

ryokan experience. You’ll be welcomed at check-in, the room has selected

sweets and tea, and the service is impeccable.

5 Eating & Drinking

Your best bet is the Ainu kotan; a handful of restaurants here serve Ainu

cuisine (and more).

o Poronno

AINU

$

(ポロンノ; %0154-67-2159; www.poronno.com; 4-7-8 Akanko Onsen; mains ¥500-1500; hnoon-

10pm May-Oct, 12.30-9pm Nov-Apr; p)

Poronno, inside the Ainu kotan, has the most interesting menu of the

restaurants in town specialising in Ainu cuisine. You can try yukku ruibe

(frozen, preserved venison) and dried salmon or pizza with pochie

(fermented potato dumpling) crust topped with cheese, mountain vegetables

and venison salami.

Marukibune Akanko-ten

AINU

$$

(丸木舟阿寒湖店; %0154-67-2304; www.marukibune.jimdo.com; 4-7-9 Akanko Onsen; mains

¥1200-2300; h11am-8pm)

A branch of Kussharo-ko’s Ainu restaurant Marukibune, inside Akanko

Onsen’s Ainu kotan, with venison and other Ainu specialties.

Onsen Kōbō Akan

CAFE

(温泉工房あかん; %0154-67-2847; 1-4-29 Akanko Onsen; mains ¥950-1400; h11am-6pm)

This is brilliant: a cafe with an ashi-yu (foot bath) so you can soak your feet

while sipping coffee (¥250). There’s food available, too; try the ‘zari-bonara’

(pasta carbonara with zarigani – freshwater crayfish; ¥950). Picture menu.

It’s on the main drag running down the hill from the Akan Kohan Eco-

Museum Centre towards the Ainu kotan.

3 Entertainment

Ikor

LIVE PERFORMANCE

(イコロ; %0154-67-2727; www.akanainu.jp; adult/child ¥1080/540)

There are several shows daily of traditional singing and dancing at this

theatre inside the Ainu kotan.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (%0154-67-3200; http://en.kushiro-lakeakan.com; 2-6-20

Akanko Onsen; h9am-6pm; W) In the middle of the village, with bus and event

schedules, hiking maps and info on accommodation and onsen – all in

English. Helps with bookings, too.

8 Getting There & Away

Two buses daily run to/from Asahikawa (¥4710, five hours), via Sōunkyō

Onsen (¥3350, four hours) in Daisetsuzan National Park. From April to

November there are three to six buses daily to/from Kushiro (¥2700, two

hours), via Kushiro Airport (¥2150, one hour).

From mid-July through mid-October, two buses daily run to/from Mashū

Station (for Kawayu Onsen; one hour, ¥1500), with a stop at Mashū-ko

Viewpoint 1.

If you’re driving, Akanko Onsen is on Rte 240, which (of course!) has

been renamed Marimo Hwy (まりも国道).

8 Getting Around

A free shuttle bus runs around Akanko Onsen, from the bus terminal via the

Ainu kotan and Akan Kohan Eco-Museum Centre. A few continue to

Takiguchi, the trailhead for O-Akan-dake. The town is compact and very

walkable.

Kawayu Onsen 川湯温泉

%0154 / POP 1050

Kawayu (川湯温泉) is a quiet onsen town with a dozen or so hot-spring

hotels, but it’s in the surrounding area that Akan National Park really comes

to life. In the vicinity are two stunning caldera lakes, Kussharo-ko and

Mashū-ko, hiking opportunities and plenty of hot springs – including some

in-the-rough, free ones.

1 Sights

o Mashū-ko

LAKE

( MAP ; 摩周湖)

Considered by many to be Japan’s most beautiful lake, Mashū-ko once held

the world record for water clarity. The island in the middle was known by

the Ainu as the Isle of the Gods. A road runs along the western rim. You

can’t get down to lake level, but there are two official viewing points called

Viewpoint 1 and Viewpoint 3; there’s no parking fee at the latter.

o Kussharo-ko

LAKE

( MAP ; 屈斜路湖)

Japan’s largest caldera lake is a rich blue on sunny days. A small volcano

peeks out from the centre, creating the island Naka-jima – best viewed from

the Bihoro Pass.

The lake is also purportedly the home of a Loch Ness monster–-like

creature nicknamed Kusshi.

Bihoro Pass

VIEWPOINT

( MAP ; 美幌峠)

This lookout point on Rte 243, which runs between Abashiri and Mashū, has

a fantastic panoramic view over Kussharoko, with Naka-jima in the middle.

Iō-zan

VOLCANO

( MAP ; 硫黄山)

This hissing mountain (512m), a couple of kilometres south of Kawayu

Onsen, is stained sunshine-yellow in patches from sulphur. Locals steam

eggs in the hot volcanic vapours for a speciality known as onsen-tamago.

Chances are you’ll hear the sellers calling ‘Tamago! Tamago! Tamago!’

(Eggs!) even before you reach the car park.

Museum of Ainu Folklore

MUSEUM

( MAP ; コタンアイヌ民俗資料館; %0154-84-2128; www.town.teshikaga.hokkaido.jp; adult/child ¥420/280; h9am-5pm May-Oct)

In the Kussharo kotan (village) on the southern shores of Kussharo-ko, this

museum displays traditional Ainu tools and crafts. Ask the staff to play the

25-minute English video, which talks about Ainu history and contemporary

Ainu culture.

2 Activities

o Mashū-dake Trail

HIKING

( MAP ; 摩周岳)

The 14.4km walk to the top of Mashū-dake (857m) takes you around the

lake to its eastern side and back in four to six hours. The pay-off is big: you

will be rewarded with amazing volcanic views for much of the hike. The

trailhead is at Mashū-ko Viewpoint 1 (400m) at the southern end of the lake;

the public bus stops here, though infrequently.

Kotan-yu

ONSEN

( MAP ; コタン湯; hclosed 2-3pm) F

On the southern shores of Kussharo-ko, in the Ainu kotan, this rotemburo is

right on the lake, with unobstructed views over the water. There’s also

unobstructed views from the road, so bring a swimsuit if that makes you

squeamish! The bath is ‘divided’ into male and female sides by a rock. It’s

well maintained thanks to devoted volunteers.

4 Sleeping

Onsen Minshuku Mako

MINSHUKU

$

( MAP ; 温泉民宿摩湖; %0154-82-5124; www.onsenmako.com; 1-2-17 Sakuraoka, Teshikaga-chō; r per person with/without 2 meals ¥5300/3800; pnW)

The owner of this simple, family-run place is a keen traveller and extends a

warm welcome to foreign guests. Rooms are tatami or Western, with shared

facilities (including an onsen bath). All-round good value. Best if you have

your own wheels – it’s a 20-minute walk from JR Mashū Station.

From November to April add ¥300 per night for heat.

Kussharo-Genya Youth Guesthouse

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 屈斜路原野ユースゲストハウス; %0154-84-2609; www.gogogenya.com; dm/r

per person from ¥3500/5200, breakfast/dinner ¥750/1300; pniW)

On a back road off Rte 243 near the southern shores of Kussharo-ko, this

attractive youth hostel has vaulted ceilings, lofty skylights and polished

wooden floors, plus an onsen bath. There’s a restaurant here (but no private

cooking facilities).

As it’s a little out of the way, set back from the road among fields, it’s

better if you’ve got your own transport, although the English-speaking staff

will pick you up from JR Mashū Station, if you request in advance. Meals

are tasty, and for a bit extra they can add venison to the menu.

o Marukibune

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP ; 丸木舟; %0154-84-2644; www.marukibune.jimdo.com; Kotan, Kussharo-Shigai, Teshikaga-chō; s/tw from ¥7710/17,580; pnaW)

This unique spot in the Ainu kotan at the southern end of Kussharo-ko is run

by Ainu musician Atuy. It has just a handful of rooms decorated with

traditional touches, some with lake views, and an onsen bath. The ‘Ainu

Room’ (single/double ¥19,590/32,700), with wooden walls, carvings and

colourful textiles, is a work of art. Meals can be taken in the ground-floor

restaurant.

Kinkiyu Hotel

HOTEL

$$

(欣喜湯; %0154-83-2211; www.kinkiyu.com; 1-5-10 Kawayu Onsen; s/d ¥7000/14,000, incl 2

meals from ¥15,000/30,000; pnW)

This decades-old hotel in Kawayu Onsen may have seen better days, but the

baths, known for their highly acidic waters, are fantastic. Day trippers can

use them between 1pm and 9pm (¥700). Though the hotel is ageing, the

Western-style or tatami rooms are well kept.

5 Eating & Drinking

There are a few eating options in front of Mashū and Kawayu Stations, and

more scattered around Kussharo-ko. You will greatly increase your options

by having a car. Note that outside summer (July and August) many places

close.

Marukibune Restaurant

AINU

$$

( MAP ; 丸木舟レストラン; %0154-84-2644; www.marukibune.jimdo.com; Kotan, Kussharo-

Shigai, Teshikaga-chō; mains ¥1200-1800; h11am-7pm; p)

OK, the food here isn’t dramatically different from what a Japanese diner

would serve, but you can get a donburi (rice bowl) topped with Hokkaidō

venison and gyōja niniku (alpine leek), the local aromatic that has a long

history in Ainu cooking. Also available is pochie (ポッチェ; ¥700),

fermented potato dumplings. The decor is an eclectic mix of Ainu items,

drum sets, microphones, and so on.

Ask one of the staff to put on a video of owner Atuy and his group

performing traditional music and dance.

There’s another branch in the Ainu kotan in Akanko Onsen.

Orchard Grass

CAFE

( MAP ; オーチャードグラス; %0154-83-3787; Kawaya Onsen Station; coffee from ¥400;

h10am-5pm, closed Tue; W)

This cafe is inside historic Kawayu Station (built in 1936), which retains

much of its original character – in the form of high, wood-panelled ceilings,

antique pendant lamps, stained-glass windows and an iron-and-tile stove.

Food, such as hamburgers, soup and ice cream, is available too.

There’s a free foot bath on the other side of the station.

8 Information

JR Mashū Station Tourist Information (%0154-82-2642; www.masyuko.or.jp; h9am-

5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr) In JR Mashū Station, with English maps and

brochures. Staff can help with accommodation bookings. There’s a smaller

counter inside JR Kawayu Onsen Station.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS

From mid-July to early October, Akan Bus runs a tourist shuttle between

Abashiri Station and Kushiro Station, stopping at Bihoro Pass, Kawayu

Onsen, Mashū Station and Akanko Onsen. A four-day pass costs

¥4000/2000 per adult/child. A week pass costs ¥11,000/5500.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Your own wheels will allow you to fully explore the park. On Rte 241,

between Mashū Station and Akanko Onsen, there’s a particularly scenic

stretch with a lookout point at Sokodai where you can see Penketō-ko and

Panketō-ko.

TRAIN

Infrequent trains run north on the JR Senmō main line between Kawayu

Onsen and Shiretoko-Shari (¥1270, one hour), and south between Kawayu

Onsen and Kushiro (¥1640, 1¾ hours) via Mashū (¥360, 15 minutes).

Abashiri (¥2050) is two hours away.

8 Getting Around

From mid-July to mid-October, Akan Bus has daily connections between JR

Mashū Station and Mashū-ko (25 minutes, Passport holders only). There is

also a circular route that runs three times daily to/from Kawayu Station via

Mashū-ko, JR Kawayu Onsen Station, Iō-zan, Suna-yu, the Ainu Kotan and

Bihoro Pass. This bus usually stops for 15 to 30 minutes so you have time to

check stuff out.

Buses, timed to meet trains, make the 10-minute run between Kawayu

Onsen Station and Kawayu Onsen town.

All of the above are covered by the Teshikaga Eco Passport (弟子屈え

こパスポート; two/three/five/seven days ¥1500/2000/2500/3000) – a must

if you are planning to use public transport to get around. The pass also

includes free luggage storage and bicycle rental; drop off your bags and pick

up wheels at either Mashū or Kawayu Onsen stations.

Kushiro 釧路

%0154 / POP 174,900

The most populous city in eastern Hokkaidō, Kushiro (釧路) is an industrial

port that came to prominence thanks to its harbour, which remains relatively

free of ice in winter. For travellers, it is a key transit hub for nearby Kushiro

Wetlands National Park and, further north, Akan National Park.

4 Sleeping & Eating

As a transport hub for the region, Kushiro has a good spread of hotels near

the train station, mostly national chains.

There are cafes and bakeries in the train station, but few options in the

streets nearby.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Kushiro Airport (釧路空港; %0154-57-8304; www.kushiro-airport.co.jp; 2 Tsuruoka), located about 10km west of the city, has flights to/from Sapporo and Tokyo.

Buses between the airport and JR Kushiro Station (¥940, 45 minutes) are

timed for arrivals and departures.

BUS

Two buses daily run between Kushiro and Asahikawa (¥5450, 6½ hours).

Other buses go to Akanko Onsen (¥2700, 1½ hours) and Sōunkyō Onsen

(¥4930, five hours). There are also five buses daily (two on weekends)

between Rausu and Kushiro (¥4850, 3½ hours). The bus terminal is next to

the train station.

TRAIN

There are six daily JR Limited Express Super Ōzora Liner trains between

Sapporo and Kushiro (¥8850, 4½ hours), via Obihiro (¥4290, 1½ hours,

from Kushiro). The JR Nemuro line runs east to Nemuro (¥2490, 2¼ hours).

Heading north from Kushiro, the JR Senmō line runs between Kushiro

and Abashiri (¥3670, 3½ hours) via Kushiro-shitsugen (¥360, 20 minutes),

Kawayu Onsen (¥1840, 1½ hours) and Shiretoko-Shari (¥2810, 2½ hours).

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park 釧路湿原国立公園

%0154

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park (釧路湿原国立公園; Kushiro Wetlands

National Park), at 269 sq km, is Japan’s largest undeveloped wetland. It was

designated a national park in 1987 to combat urban sprawl and protect the

habitat of numerous species, chiefly the tanchō-zuru (red-crowned white

crane), the traditional symbol of both longevity and Japan.

In the early 20th century, the cranes were thought to be extinct due to

overhunting and habitat destruction. In 1926, however, some 20 birds were

discovered in the marshes here; with concentrated conservation efforts, they

now number over 1000. Cranes can be seen year-round, but the best time to

spot them is during winter when they gather at feeding spots.

1 Sights & Activities

Rte 53 runs up the park’s western fringes. If you have your own wheels, you

can explore the park at length, including various viewpoints.

Train-users can ride to JR Kushiroshitsugen Station, then walk uphill for

15 minutes to the Hosooka Marsh Viewpoint (細岡展望台).

Kushiro Japanese Crane Reserve

WILDLIFE RESERVE

(釧路市丹頂鶴自然公園, Tanchō-zuru Shizen-kōen; %0154-56-2219; www.kushiro-

tancho.jp; 112 Tsuruoka; adult/child ¥470/110; h9am-6pm Apr-early Oct, 9am-4pm early Oct-Mar)

Run by Kushiro Zoo, this reserve has been instrumental in increasing the

crane population. There are currently 14 tanchō-zuru living here, though

they are free to leave anytime they like (the fences are for people, not the

birds).

Akan International Crane Centre ‘GRUS’

WILDLIFE RESERVE

(阿寒国際ツルセンター【グルス】; %0154-66-4011;

www.aiccgrus.wixsite.com/aiccgrus; 23-40 Kami-Akan, Akan-chō; adult/child ¥470/240; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)

You can see a few cranes in breeding pens here but the real attraction is the

Crane Observation Centre (8.30am to 4.30pm November to March), a

winter feeding ground that is your best chance to see cranes outside of a bird

park. Inside there are lots of interesting photos and some fun exhibits.

Kushiro-shitsugen Norokko Train

RAIL

(釧路湿原ノロッコ号; hJun-Oct)

This is the best way to see the wetlands without a car: once or twice daily, a

vintage train with large picture windows makes a slow journey from Kushiro

via Kushiro-shitsugen (¥360) as far as Tōro Station (¥540). It’s very popular

so be sure to reserve a seat (plus ¥520). The tourist info booth at Kushiro

Station can help.

In February, an old steam locomotive, the Fuyu-shitsugen Norokko

Train, plies the same route; it doesn’t run every day though and you’ll need

to book ahead.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Very few options here; head to Kushiro for more.

o Kushiro-shitsugen Tōro Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(釧路湿原とうろユースホステル; %0154-87-2510; www.tohro.net; 7 Tōro, Shibecha-

chō; dm/s/d from ¥4500/6500/9000, breakfast/dinner ¥600/1000; pnW) F

This hostel, run partly on solar power, was designed with birdwatchers in

mind. A porch (partly glassed in) looks directly over the marshes and there

are binoculars you can borrow. It’s also a peaceful place to spend a few days,

with good meals (book ahead, there’s not much else around) and comfortable

dorm rooms.

From May to November, the hostel runs canoe tours and offers a guiding

service, while from December to March it offers tours to see the cranes. It’s

a few minutes’ walk from JR Tōro (塘路) Station, two stops north of

Kushiro-shitsugen on the JR Senmō line.

8 Getting There & Around

The JR Senmō main line runs from Kushiro to Kushiro-shitsugen (¥360, 20

minutes), on the east side of the park. From Kushiro-shitsugen, trains

continue to Kawayu Onsen, Shiretoko-Shari and Abashiri.

The bus from Kushiro Station to Akanko Onsen stops at the Japanese

Crane Reserve (¥910, one hour) and Akan International Crane Centre

‘GRUS’ (¥1450, 1¼ hours). Both are also along Rte 240, which runs

between Kushiro and Akanko Onsen. Buses to Sapporo take 5½ hours and

cost ¥5770.

Tokachi 十勝

Largely rural Tokachi (十勝) is known throughout Japan for its dairy farms,

cattle ranches and vineyards. For travellers, this is mostly a place to pass

through, en route to Daisetsuzan National Park or eastern Hokkaidō, though

there is some lovely countryside here.

Obihiro (帯広) is the biggest city here and a useful transit hub.

4 Sleeping

Obihiro has the most options and the most convenient transport links;

however, if you’re driving, there are some lovely hostels in the countryside,

not too far from the main towns.

Toipirka Kitaobihiro Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(トイピルカ北帯広ユースホステル; %0155-30-4165; http://toipirka.eco.coocan.jp;

N4E52-8 Shimo-Shihoro, Otofuke-chō; dm from ¥3500, breakfast/dinner ¥750/1300; pniW)

A great place to break for the night is this attractive log house with a

hammock on the front porch and cosy sofas around a wood stove in the

lounge. The meals, cooked from scratch with no additives, are fantastic. It’s

near Tokachi-gawa Onsen, a cluster of resort-style onsen and hotels along

the Tokachi-gawa, a 15-minute drive east of Obihiro.

If you’re coming by public transport, it’s a little trickier: take bus 45 for

Tokachi-gawa Onsen from stop 6 in front of JR Obihiro Station, alighting at

Shimoshihoro Shōgakō (下士幌小学校前; 20 minutes). If you ring ahead,

the hostel owners will pick you up at the bus stop. Note that buses only run

eight times a day.

Ikeda Kita-no-Kotan Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(池田北のコタンユースホステル; %0155-72-3666; www11.plala.or.jp/kitanokotan; 99-

4 Toshibetsu Nishimachi; dm with/without 2 meals from ¥5600/3870; pnW)

Friendly management and delicious dinners, including a complimentary

glass of local wine (for dinner guests only), make Ikeda Kita-no-Kotan

Youth Hostel a real treat. The hostel is a five-minute walk from JR

Toshibetsu Station, one stop west of Ikeda (¥210, five minutes) on the JR

Nemuro line.

Note that the hostel is closed sporadically between November and June.

Reservations are thus required so you’ll be sure to catch them when they’re

open.

8 Getting There & Away

Obihiro, which has Tokachi Obihiro Airport (十勝帯広空港; %0155-64-5320;

www.tokachiobihiro-airport.jp; W9 Chūō 8-41, Izumi-chō) nearby, is the main transit hub

for the region.

JR Limited Express Super Tokachi Liner and Super Ōzora Liner trains

connect Sapporo and Obihiro (¥6700, 2¾ hours, 11 daily); Super Ōzora

Liner trains continue from Obihiro to Kushiro (¥4810, 1½ hours, six daily).

Obihiro and Ikeda are also stops on the JR Nemuro main line, running

between northern Hokkaidō and the far eastern tip in Nemuro.

Car rentals from most major companies are available in Obihiro or at

Tokachi Obihiro Airport.

Shikoku

Tokushima Prefecture

Tokushima

Naruto

The Anan Coast

Iya Valley

Kōchi Prefecture

Kōchi

Shimanto City

Ashizuri-misaki

Ehime Prefecture

Matsuyama

Ishizuchi-san

Uchiko

Uwajima

Kagawa Prefecture

Takamatsu

Yashima

Marugame

Zentsuji

Kotohira

Kanonji

Shikoku

Why Go?

The birthplace of revered ascetic and founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect

Kōbō Daishi (774–835), Shikoku (四国) is synonymous with natural beauty

and the pursuit of spiritual perfection. It’s home to the 88 Sacred Temples of

Shikoku, Japan’s most famous pilgrimage.

In Japan’s feudal past, the island was divided into four regions; hence the

name shi (four) and koku (region). Considered remote and isolated for

centuries, Shikoku is now easy to access from Honshū via three impressive

bridge systems built in the last three decades.

The island’s stunning Iya Valley, rugged Pacific coastline, mountain ranges

and gorgeous free-flowing rivers all beckon to be explored with hiking boots,

kayaks, surfboards and your own earthly vessel. Your physical incarnation will

feast upon the remote temples, historic castles and gardens, excellent regional

cuisine and modern pleasures of Tokushima, Kōchi, Matsuyama and

Takamatsu.

When to Go

Apr Enlightenment may know no weather, but any pilgrimage is best taken in

spring.

Jul–Sep Rivers are running, surf is rolling, and the sun is, well, shining.

Aug Join every man, woman and child for Awa-odori Matsuri, Japan’s wildest

dance party.

Best Places to Eat

A Cafe Bleu

A Hirome Ichiba

A Bahati

A Ofukuro

A Kappō Yano

A Sanzenkai

Best Places to Stay

A Shimanto-no-yado Iyashi-no-sato

A Nakahaga Residence Guesthouse

A Chiiori

A Kaiyu Inn

A Guest House Wakabaya

Shikoku Highlights

1 88 Temple Pilgrimage Walking the time-worn route.

2 Muroto-misaki Finding seclusion, if not enlightenment, like Kōbō

Daishi did.

3 Ishizuchi-san Hiking up the sacred mountain, one of Japan’s most

gripping ascents.

4 Iya Valley Picking your way across swaying vine bridges in gorgeous

isolation.

5 Dōgo Onsen Soaking in the venerable waters of the historic onsen in the

castle-town metropolis of Matsuyama.

6 Konpira-san Trekking up 1368 stone steps to pay homage to the god of

seafarers.

7 Ritsurin-kōen Walking off Japan’s most famous udon with a stroll

through Takamatsu’s exquisite Edo-period garden.

8 Tairyū-ji Ropeway Riding the spectacular ropeway up to mountaintop

Temple 21 of the 88 Sacred Temples.

9 Naruto Marvelling at the vitality of the whirlpools from close up while

aboard a sightseeing boat.

a Ōkinohama Surfing beautiful swells or relaxing on the beach.

4 Sleeping

Major cities and towns have hotels with Western-style rooms and guesthouses,

while smaller towns have ryokan (traditional inns) and minshuku (Japanese

guesthouses). Many of the 88 Sacred Temples have shukubō (pilgrim lodgings)

that serve shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine).

5 Eating

Kagawa is known throughout Japan for Sanuki-udon, the local noodle dish,

with square-shaped, thick, wheat-flour noodles. As Shikoku is an island,

exquisite seafood is widely available too. Kōchi Prefecture in particular is

known for katsuo-tataki, seared bonito fish that is thinly sliced and eaten with

grated ginger; and sawachi-ryōri, a huge plate (sawachi) of seafood, with a

variety of both sashimi and sushi.

Ehime Prefecture is known for its mikan, a citrus fruit similar to a mandarin.

It is known here as Iyokan, using the prefecture’s old name of Iyo. Also

popular is jakoten, a fishcake made from blended fish paste and then fried.

Uwajima in the south of Ehime is famous for its tai-meshi, a snapper and rice

dish.

Outside of the major cities, it’s a good idea to book meals at your lodgings as

finding restaurants open in the evenings can be difficult.

8 Information

INTERNET ACCESS

Shikoku is up with the play in terms of free wi-fi for visitors. The countrywide

Japan Connectedfree Wi-Fi (www.ntt-bp.net/jcfw/en.html) app works well,

plus each of the four prefectures has its own version.

Tokushima Free Wi-fi (http://tokushima-wifi.jp)

Kōchi Free Wi-fi (http://visitkochijapan.com/travelers_kit/wifi) Ehime Free Wi-fi (www.ehime-wifi.jp/en)

Kagawa Free Wi-fi (www.my-kagawa.jp/wifi)

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Air connections are constantly changing, so check for the latest.

Takamatsu has direct flights to Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul and Shanghai;

Matsuyama has direct flights to Seoul and Shanghai.

Domestically, All Nippon Airways (www.ana.co.jp), Japan Airlines

(www.jal.co.jp) and a growing number of low-cost carriers such as Peach

(www.flypeach.com) and Jetstar (www.jetstar.com/jp/en/home) have services

that connect Matsuyama, Kōchi, Takamatsu and Tokushima in Shikoku with

Tokyo, Osaka and other major centres.

BUS

There are many buses that use the three bridge systems linking Shikoku with

Honshū.

A In the east, the Akashi Kaikyō-ōhashi (Akashi Kaikyō bridge) connects

Tokushima with Kōbe and Osaka via Awaji-shima (Awaji Island).

A In the middle, the Seto-ōhashi (Seto Bridge) runs from Okayama to Sakaide,

west of Takamatsu.

A In the west, the Shimanami Kaidō is an island-hopping series of nine bridges

(with bike paths!) leading from Imabari in Ehime Prefecture to Onomichi near

Hiroshima.

JR Shikoku Bus (www.jr-shikoku.co.jp/bus) operates between Shikoku’s

major cities, and to cities on Honshū such as Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka

and Okayama. The route map, timetables and fares are available online.

TRAIN

The Seto-ōhashi (Seto Bridge) that links Okayama to Sakaide, west of

Takamatsu, is the only one of the bridges to carry trains. JR runs regularly from

Okayama to Shikoku, with limited express trains running to Takamatsu,

Matsuyama and Kōchi.

8 Getting Around

BUS

Buses link major Shikoku cities and reach points that trains don’t get to, but

times and connections can be difficult, especially in remote parts of the island.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Shikoku is perfect for a road trip. Highlights such as the Iya Valley, the two

southern capes of Muroto-misaki and Ashizuri-misaki, and many of the 88

Temples have no train lines and tricky bus connections, so a car can make it a

lot easier to see what Shikoku has to offer, especially if you have limited time

on your hands.

Rent a car and head out on a voyage of exploration. You may also consider

driving to Shikoku over one of the three bridge systems or putting your rental

car on a ferry to get there.

A ‘Car Pilgrimage’ around the 88 Temples is perfectly feasible in 15 to 20

days. Navigation is easy – just enter the next temple’s phone number in your

English-speaking satnav and you’ll be led right there.

Toyota Rent a Car (https://rent.toyota.co.jp/eng) Has offices in all four

Shikoku prefectures.

Nissan Rent a Car (https://nissan-rentacar.com/english) In Shikoku’s four major cities and airports.

TRAIN

Trains link all Shikoku’s major cities, but do not reach as far as the southern

capes of Muroto-misaki and Ashizuri-misaki or into the island’s mountainous

interior.

JR Shikoku offers an All Shikoku Pass. The options are all ¥500 cheaper

when purchased outside of Japan. Passes can be bought after arrival on

Shikoku, and besides unlimited use of JR trains, also offer discounts on a

number of ferry and bus lines.

TOKUSHIMA PREFECTURE

The starting point for pilgrims over the past 1200 years, Tokushima Prefecture

(徳島県), formerly known as Awa, is home to the first 23 of Shikoku’s 88

Sacred Temples. Ryōzen-ji is Temple One as it is the first temple pilgrims came

to after visiting Kōya-san in Wakayama Prefecture and asking for Kōbō

Daishi’s support on their journey. To henro (pilgrims), Tokushima is known as

Hosshin-no-dōjō, the ‘place to determine to achieve enlightenment’. If you

haven’t got time to walk the 88, the first five temples sit in an east–west line

spanning about 15km to the north of the Yoshino River and make a worthy

mini-pilgrimage.

These days, notable attractions of the prefecture include the lively Awa-odori

Matsuri, which takes place in Tokushima in August; the mighty whirlpools of

the Naruto Channel between Shikoku and Awaji-shima; the surf beaches of the

Anan Coast (阿南海岸; Anan-kaigan) to the south; and the onsen and gorges

of the remote Iya Valley.

Check out www.discovertokushima.net for information on the area.

Tokushima 徳島

%088 / POP 270,000

With Mt Bizan looming in the southwest, and the Shinmachi-gawa cutting a

gentle swath through the middle, bustling Tokushima city (徳島) is its

prefecture’s pleasant capital. With a number of nearby temples, the city makes

a solid starting point for 88 Temple pilgrims. It’s a modern, regional city with

plenty going on between JR Tokushima Station in the city centre and the Bizan

ropeway station.

In the southern part of the city, Bunka-no-mori-kōen is a great option for

rainy days, as the complex houses several museums, including the Tokushima

Modern Art Museum, the Tokushima Prefectural Museum and the prefectural

library.

Every August, the Awa-odori Matsuri, a traditional dance festival, attracts

thousands of Japanese visitors from across the country. Book accommodation

well ahead and expect to pay a premium if you’re visiting during this time.

Tokushima

1 Top Sights

1 Bizan

A3

1 Sights

2 Awa Odori Kaikan

B2

3 Bizan Ropeway

A3

4 Chūō-kōen

D1

5 Senshūkaku-teien

D2

6 Tokushima Castle Museum

D1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Funride Tokushima

C2

8 Hyōtan-jima Boats

C2

4 Sleeping

9 Agnes Hotel Tokushima

C1

10 Hotel Clement Tokushima

C1

11 Sakura-sō

C2

12 Tokushima Washington Hotel Plaza

B3

5 Eating

13 Izakaya Ikiiki

D1

14 Otona-no-Izakaya Kagoya-Tarō Kamuan

B3

15 Tokushima Ramen Men Ō

C2

16 Tokushima Station Bar Alley

C1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

17 Awa Shinmachigawa Brewery

C2

8 Information

18 Tokushima Prefecture International Exchange Association

C1

19 Tourist Information Office

C1

8 Transport

20 Bus Terminal

C1

21 Rental Bicycles

C1

22 Rental Electric-Assist Bicycle

C1

1 Sights

o Bizan

MOUNTAIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 眉山) At the foot of Bizan, the 280m-high summit at the southwestern end of

Shinmachibashi-dōri, the Bizan Ropeway ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %088-652-3617; one

way/return ¥610/1020; h9am-5.30pm Nov-Mar, to 9pm Apr-Oct & during special events) whizzes

you to the top for fine city views. A combined ticket for the cable car, museum

and dance show at the Awa Odori Kaikan costs ¥1620.

Awa Odori Kaikan

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 阿波おどり会館; %088-611-1611; www.awaodori-kaikan.jp; 2-20

Shinmachibashi; h9am-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of month) F

Awa Odori Kaikan features extensive exhibits relating to the Awa-odori

Matsuri and dance. The dance is performed for visitors at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm

daily (and also at 11am on weekends), with a nightly performance at 8pm

(afternoon/evening ¥600/800). From the 5th floor, a cable car whizzes you to

the top of Bizan for fine city views. There’s also a small Tourist Information

Office with rental bicycles on the ground floor.

Chūō-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中央公園) Northeast of the train station is Tokushima’s central park, Chūō-kōen, a lovely

place for a stroll. You’ll find the scant ruins of Tokushima-jō (Tokushima

Castle) and the beautiful Senshūkaku-teien ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 千秋閣庭園;

¥50, incl in museum ticket), an intimate 16th-century garden featuring rock bridges

and secluded ponds. Get a glimpse into the castle’s former grandeur at

Tokushima Castle Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 徳島城博物館; %088-656-2525;

www.city.tokushima.tokushima.jp/johaku; 1-8 Jōnai; ¥300; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun), whose structure is based on the original castle’s architecture and location. The

museum contains a model of the castle town at its peak as well as artefacts.

Awa Jūrobe Yashiki Puppet Theatre

THEATRE

(阿波十郎兵衛屋敷; %088-665-2202; www.joruri.info/jurobe; 184 Miyajima Motoura, Kawauchi-

chō; ¥410; h9.30am-5pm, to 6pm Jul & Aug)

For hundreds of years, puppet theatre thrived in the farming communities

around Tokushima. Performances can still be seen here, in the former residence

of Bandō Jūrobe, a samurai who allowed himself to be executed for a crime he

didn’t commit in order to preserve the good name of his master. The tale

inspired the drama Keisei Awa no Naruto, first performed in 1768. Sections

from the play are performed at 11am and 2pm daily.

To get to the museum, take a bus for Tomiyoshi Danchi (富吉団地) from

bus stop 7 at Tokushima bus terminal and get off at the Jūrobe Yashiki-mae

stop (¥270, 25 minutes). More puppets can be seen at the nearby Awa Deko

Ningyō Kaikan (阿波木偶人形会館; Awa Puppet Hall; %088-665-5600;

www3.tcn.ne.jp/~awadekoningyokk/top.html; 1-226 Miyajima Motoura, Kawauchi-chō; ¥400; h9am-

5pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon of month). This small museum displays puppets made by the

in-house master, who also gives talks (in Japanese) on the puppet-making

process.

Tokushima Modern Art Museum

MUSEUM

(徳島県立近代美術館; %088-668-1088; www.art.tokushima-ec.ed.jp; Bunka-no-mori-kōen,

Hachiman-chō; ¥200, special exhibitions extra ¥600; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

With a permanent collection that includes modern masters, both Japanese and

Western, this surprisingly sophisticated prefectural museum houses two- and

three-dimensional art by Picasso and Klee as well as by Kaburagi and Seishi. It

is particularly interesting to compare the more familiar European works to their

Japanese counterparts, especially the pieces reflecting Japan’s postwar identity;

the fusion of traditional and Western-influenced styles embodies the zeitgeist

of the period.

2 Activities

o Funride Tokushima

WATER SPORTS

( MAP ; ファンライド徳島; %090-9772-7588; www.funride-tokushima.com; 3-18 Minami-uchi-machi; introductory paddle ¥4000)

A very cool way to spend time in Tokushima is stand-up paddleboarding on the

Shinmachi-gawa with Nanri-san at Funride Tokushima. This is flat-water SUP

right in the middle of the city – a one-hour introduction costs ¥4000, including

equipment, while if you’re keen, there’s a 2½-hour trip around Hyotanjima, the

island that central Tokushima is built on.

T Tours

Hyōtan-jima Boats

BOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ひょうたん島周遊船; %090-3783-2084; tours ¥200) Take the boat cruise around ‘gourd-shaped’ Hyōtan-jima (Hyōtan Island) in

central Tokushima. The tours leave from Ryōgoku-bashi (両国橋; Ryōgoku

Bridge) on the Shinmachi-gawa every 40 minutes from 1pm to 4pm Monday

through Friday from mid-March to mid-October, and daily from 20 July to 31

August. In July and August there are additional departures every 40 minutes

from 5pm to 8pm.

z Festivals & Events

o Awa-odori Matsuri

DANCE

(阿波踊り; h12-15 Aug)

The Awa-odori is the largest bon dance in Japan. Each evening men, women

and children take to the streets to dance to the samba-like rhythm of the theme

song ‘Awa Yoshikono’, accompanied by the sounds of shamisen (three-stringed

guitars), taiko (drums) and fue (flutes). More than a million people turn up

every year.

4 Sleeping

o Sakura-sō

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; さくら荘; %088-652-9575; 1-25 Terashimahonchō-higashi; s/d without bathroom ¥3300/6000; aW)

The delightful owner readily welcomes foreigners to her charming place,

which has a dozen large, good-value tatami rooms. There’s free wi-fi, laundry

facilities, parking and baggage storage at this budget bonanza right opposite the

tracks, a few blocks east of the train station, just before the NHK TV tower.

Get someone to call and book for you.

No English signage; look for the signage さくら荘.

o Agnes Hotel Tokushima

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アグネスホテル徳島; %088-626-2222; www.agneshotel.jp; 1-28

Terashima-honchō-nishi; s/d from ¥7500/12,000; pnaW)

Hip little Agnes lies 200m west of the station and offers a more sophisticated

aesthetic than the usual business hotel. Rooms are sleek, with stylish interiors;

the casual-yet-smart cafe is open all day; and the ‘pastry boutique’ is a

destination in its own right.

Tokushima Washington Hotel Plaza

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; 徳島ワシントンホテルプラザ; %088-653-7111; www.washingtonhotel.co.jp; 1-61-1

Ōmichi; s/tw from ¥5000/7000; pnaW)

The Tokushima branch of this big nationwide chain is surprisingly friendly.

The rooms are a decent size, the complimentary breakfast features freshly

baked bread, soup and salt-flavoured boiled eggs, and there’s take-out coffee at

breakfast. It’s convenient for the entertainment district with bars and

restaurants only a short stroll away.

o Hotel Clement Tokushima

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルクレメント徳島; %088-656-3111;

www.jrclement.co.jp/tokushima; 1-61 Terashima-honchō-nishi; s/d from ¥11,000/15,000; pnaW) Part of Tokushima Station building, the luxurious Hotel Clement boasts 18

floors and 250 comfortable, spacious, Westernstyle rooms. Although it’s more

expensive than other business hotels, it’s the top hotel in town and the extra

yen buys you a slew of amenities including a spa and a range of restaurants and

bars.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

GREEN VILLAGE KAMIKATSU

Getting to Kamikatsu (上勝) is an effort, but for craft-beer aficionados, zero-waste greenies and

architectural fans, it’s worth it. Kamikatsu is on a mission to be Japan’s first zero-waste town and

the whole village is on board.

Epitomising the effort is Rise & Win Co’s (%0885-45-0688; www.kamikatz.jp; 237-2 Hirama, Masaki, Kamikatsu-chō; h11am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) brewery restaurant,

totally recycled from old town buildings, from the framed windows on the building’s facade to the

centrepiece ‘bottle chandelier’. Rise & Win is living the dream, attracting plenty of craft-beer fans

to its inventive headquarters. Keeping things local, their award-winning Porter Stout is flavoured

with Naruto Kintoki, a distinctive kind of Tokushima sweet potato, while their Leuven White has a

fruity flavour influenced by yuko, a regional citrus fruit. Even the company name is innovative,

taken from readings of the town’s name in kanji – 上 (kami) can mean rise, while 勝 (katsu) means

win.

Kamikatsu is 45 minutes southwest of Tokushima city by car. Rental wheels are the best way to

get here, but if bus is your only option, make sure you get detailed instructions at the tourist office.

5 Eating & Drinking

Options abound in the streets around JR Tokushima Station and in the station

building itself. Head across the Shinmachi-gawa to Akita-machi for more

choice.

o Tokushima Station Bar Alley

FOOD HALL

¥

( MAP ; 徳島駅バル横丁; www.clementplaza.com/floorguide/b1; h11am-11pm) Definitely the hottest eating and drinking spot in Tokushima is downstairs in

the Clement Plaza building, under the station. New in 2018 is Bar Alley, with

nine impressive places offering set meals for lunch, then transforming into bar-

type restaurants in the evening. There’s everything from Ikinari Steak,

Otokomae Kara-age chicken to an outlet of Awa Beer. Extremely popular with

locals.

o Otona-no-Izakaya Kagoya-Tarō Kamuan

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP ; おとなの居酒屋 籠や太郎可夢庵; %088-602-1755; 2-15-1 Kagoya-machi; dishes

from ¥400; h6-11pm Mon-Sat)

There aren’t many nonsmoking izakaya out there! This place, up the white

stairs almost at the end of the arcade, offers a smoke-free environment, healthy

menu options and nomi-kurabe (compare the taste) sets of local sake. The

name ‘ otona-no-izakaya’ means a ‘pub for mature thinkers’ – it’s not a place

for a raucous night out, but a relaxed spot for good food and drink.

Tokushima Ramen Men Ō

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 徳島ラーメン麺王; %088-623-4116; www.7-men.com; 3-6 TerashimaHonchō-higashi; dishes from ¥500; h11am-midnight)

There are about 20 seats in this Tokushima classic only a couple of minutes’

walk from the station. Right outside the front door is a machine with the menu

and photos of each dish – pick what looks good, put the appropriate amount of

money in and pass over your ticket inside. Look for the red awning and lantern.

Izakaya Ikiiki

IZAKAYA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 活意気; %088-635-7130; www.hansyudokoro-ikiiki.com; 1-2-5 Minami-

jōsanjima-chō; plates from ¥400; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, 5pm to midnight Sun)

This slick little izakaya is well worth the adventure of having to battle

Japanese-only menus. Just past the northeast corner of the park, Ikiiki has

friendly, helpful staff, fresh seafood, and best of all, tasting trays of

Tokushima-made sake – nomi-kurabe trays with three varieties for ¥900 each.

o Awa Shinmachigawa Brewery

MICROBREWERY

( MAP ; 麦酒工房Awa新町川ブリュワリー; %088-653-2271; www.awa-mugishu.com; 1-6

Higashi-senbachō; h5pm-midnight Tue-Fri, from midday Sat & Sun)

Head to this relaxed spot down by the river to try a few local brews such as the

pale ale, stout and bitter. There’s indoor and outdoor seating, plenty of eating

options and a convivial atmosphere. A nomi-kurabe tasting set of three beers

will set you back ¥800, while if you’re in the mood, you can sample a beer

cocktail.

WALKING THE 88 TEMPLE PILGRIMAGE

The henro (pilgrim on the 88 Temple walk) is one of the most distinctive sights of any trip to

Shikoku. They’re everywhere you go, striding along busy city highways, cresting hills in remote

mountain valleys – solitary figures in white, trudging purposefully through heat haze and

downpour alike on their way from temple to temple. Who are these people and what drives them to

make a journey of more than 1400km on foot?

Although the backgrounds and motives of the henro may differ widely, they all follow in the

legendary footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the monk who attained enlightenment on Shikoku, established

Shingon Buddhism in Japan and ma de significant contributions to Japanese culture. Whether or

not it is true that Kōbō Daishi actually founded or visited all 88 sacred sites, the idea behind

making the 88 Temple Circuit is to do so accompanied by the spirit of Kōbō Daishi himself –

hence the inscription on pilgrims’ backpacks and other paraphernalia: 同行二人 (dōgyō ninin),

meaning ‘two people on the same journey’.

Regardless of motivation of each henro, the pattern and routine of life on the road is very similar

for everyone who undertakes the trail. The dress is uniform, too: hakue (white garments) to signify

sincerity of purpose and purity of mind; the sugegasa (straw hat) that has protected pilgrims

against sun and rain since time immemorial; and the kongōzue (colourful staff). The routine at each

temple is mostly the same, too: a bang on the bell and a chant of the Heart Sutra at the Daishi-dō

(one of the two main buildings in each temple compound), before filing off to the nōkyō-jo (desk),

where the pilgrims’ book is inscribed with beautiful characters detailing the name of the temple

and the date of the pilgrimage.

If you’re eager to become an aruki henro (walking pilgrim), you’ll need to budget 40 to 60 days

(allowing for an average distance of 25km a day) to complete the circuit. To plan your pilgrimage,

the website www.shikokuhenrotrail.com and the guidebook Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide (Buyodo Publishing) are both excellent English-language resources. The book, plus all the henro

gear you’ll need for your walk, can be purchased at Temple One: Ryōzen-ji. For brilliant

background reading on the pilgrimage, get a copy of Japanese Pilgrimage, by Oliver Statler, and

for ideas on innovative sleeping spots, download Craig McLachlan’s Tales of a Summer Henro.

Travellers who don’t have the time or inclination to attempt the whole thing can get a taste of

what it’s all about by following one of the henro-for-a-day minicircuits. Aside from walking the

first few temples at Naruto, cities with concentrations of temples within easy reach of each other

include Matsuyama, Temples 46 through 53, and Zentsūji, in Kagawa Prefecture.

If you’re keen to do the pilgrimage, but walking doesn’t appeal, take into account that most

pilgrims these days travel around the 88 Temples on tour buses, in taxis or cars, on motorbikes or

bicycles. It’s making an effort that counts!

8 Information

Tourist Information Office ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 徳島総合観光案内所; %088-622-8556; h9.30am-7pm) In a booth on the plaza outside the station.

Tokushima Prefecture International Exchange Association ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 徳島県国際交流協会; TOPIA; %088-656-3303; www.topia.ne.jp; 6th fl, Clement Plaza, 1-61 Terashima Honchō-nishi; h10am-6pm) On the 6th floor of the Clement

Plaza Building, directly above the station, this efficient office has friendly

English-speaking staff and is a mine of information for Tokushima Prefecture.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Tokushima Awaodori Airport (徳島阿波おどり空港; %088-699-2831;

www.tokushima-airport.co.jp) has flights to Tokyo and Fukuoka. Buses (¥440; 30

minutes; buses timed to coincide with flights) depart from bus stop 1 in front of

the station.

BOAT

Nankai Ferry runs daily connections between Tokushima and Wakayama (two

hours, six daily).

Ocean Tōkyū Ferry (オーシャン東九フェリー; %088-636-0109; www.otf.jp; 2-62-2

Higashi-Okinosu) departs once daily to/from Tokyo/Tokushima/Kita-Kyūshū (18

hours to Tokyo, 15 hours to Kita-Kyūshū).

FERRIES TO SHIKOKU

Numerous ferry routes link Shikoku to destinations in Kansai, Western

Honshū, Kyūshū and even Tokyo.

DEPARTING FROM

DESTINATIONS

Tokushima

Wakayama, Kita-Kyūshū and Tokyo

Matsuyama

Hiroshima, Kita-Kyūshū

Yawatahama (south of)

Beppu and Usuki on Kyūshū

Takamatsu

Kōbe, Naoshima and Uno (in Okayama Prefecture)

BUS

Daily highway buses connect Tokushima with Tokyo (nine hours), Nagoya

(five hours) and Kyoto (three hours); there are also 10 buses per day to Osaka

(2½ hours) and Kansai airport (2¾ hours). They leave from the bus terminal (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ) outside the train station.

TRAIN

Tokushima is just over an hour by train (¥3360) from Takamatsu by tokkyū

(limited express). For the Iya Valley and Kōchi, change trains at Awa-Ikeda (阿

波池田, ¥3540, 1¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Rental bicycles ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 貸し自転車; %088-652-6661; per half/full day

¥270/450, deposit ¥3000; h9am-8pm) are available from the underground bike park to

the left as you leave the station.

Electric-assist bicycles (ぐるとくサイクル; %088-655-6133; per 3hr/day/week

¥500/1000/3000; h9am-7.30pm) are available just opposite the station, down the

escalator at SOGO.

THE FIRST FIVE TEMPLES: RYŌZEN-JI TO JIZŌ-JI

Naruto is the starting point for Shikoku’s 88 Temple Pilgrimage. The first five temples are all

within easy walking distance of each other, making it possible to get a taste of the henro (pilgrim)

trail on a day trip from Tokushima.

To get to Temple One, Ryōzen-ji, take a local train from Tokushima to Bandō (板東; ¥260, 25

minutes). The temple is a 10- to 15-minute walk (about 700m) along the main road; the map at

Bandō Station should point you in the right direction. From Ryōzen-ji it’s a short walk along the

main road from the first temple to the second, Gokuraku-ji ( MAP ; 極楽寺), and another 2km

from here to Temple Three, Konsen-ji ( MAP ; 金泉寺). There are more-or-less regular signposts (in Japanese) pointing the way. Look for the signs by the roadside marked henro-michi (へんろ道

or 遍路道), often decorated with a red picture of a henro in silhouette. From here, it’s about 5km

along an increasingly rural path to Temple Four, Dainichi-ji ( MAP ; 大日寺), and another 2km to Temple Five, Jizō-ji ( MAP ; 地蔵寺), where there’s an impressive collection of statues (¥200) of the 500 Rakan disciples of the Buddha. From the Rakan (羅漢) bus stop on the main road in front

of the temple you can catch a bus to Itano Station (板野), where a train will take you back to

Tokushima (¥360, 30 minutes).

Naruto 鳴門

POP 60,000

Naruto is a spread-out city in the northeast corner of Shikoku. While there’s not

much of interest in the township itself, Naruto is known throughout Japan for

whirlpools in the sea underneath Ōnaruto Bridge, the impressive structure that

connects Shikoku with Awaji-shima. The phenomena is best viewed as the

tides change, either from a boat or from the observation platform under the

bridge. Check www.uzusio.com for the best times to view them on a particular

day.

Also within the city limits are the first two temples of the 88 Sacred Temples

of Shikoku Pilgrimage.

88 Temples of Shikoku

1 Sights

1 Temple 1 (Ryōzen-ji)

H2

2 Temple 2 (Gokuraku-ji)

G2

3 Temple 3 (Konsen-ji)

G2

4 Temple 4 (Dainichi-ji)

G2

5 Temple 5 (Jizō-ji)

G2

6 Temple 6 (Anraku-ji)

G2

7 Temple 7 (Jūraku-ji)

G2

8 Temple 8 (Kumadani-ji)

G2

9 Temple 9 (Hōrin-ji)

G2

10 Temple 10 (Kirihata-ji)

G2

11 Temple 11 (Fujii-dera)

G2

12 Temple 12 (Shōzan-ji)

G3

13 Temple 13 (Dainichi-ji)

H3

14 Temple 14 (Jōraku-ji)

G2

15 Temple 15 (Kokubun-ji)

H2

16 Temple 16 (Kannon-ji)

G2

17 Temple 17 (Ido-ji)

H2

18 Temple 18 (Onzan-ji)

H3

19 Temple 19 (Tatsue-ji)

H3

20 Temple 20 (Kakurin-ji)

H3

21 Temple 21 (Tairyū-ji)

H3

22 Temple 22 (Byōdō-ji)

H3

23 Temple 23 (Yakuō-ji)

H3

24 Temple 24 (Hotsumisaki-ji)

G5

25 Temple 25 (Shinshō-ji)

F5

26 Temple 26 (Kongōchō-ji)

F5

27 Temple 27 (Kōnomine-ji)

F4

28 Temple 28 (Dainichi-ji)

E4

29 Temple 29 (Kokubun-ji)

E4

30 Temple 30 (Zenraku-ji)

E4

31 Temple 31 (Chikurin-ji)

E4

32 Temple 32 (Zenjibu-ji)

E4

33 Temple 33 (Sekkei-ji)

E4

34 Temple 34 (Tanema-ji)

D4

35 Temple 35 (Kiyotaki-ji)

D4

36 Temple 36 (Shōryū-ji)

D5

37 Temple 37 (Iwamoto-ji)

C6

38 Temple 38 (Kongōfuku-ji)

C7

39 Temple 39 (Enkō-ji)

B6

40 Temple 40 (Kanjizai-ji)

B6

41 Temple 41 (Ryūkō-ji)

B5

42 Temple 42 (Butsumoku-ji)

B5

43 Temple 43 (Meiseki-ji)

A5

44 Temple 44 (Taihō-ji)

C4

45 Temple 45 (Iwaya-ji)

C4

46 Temple 46 (Jōruri-ji)

B3

47 Temple 47 (Yasaka-ji)

B3

48 Temple 48 (Sairin-ji)

B3

49 Temple 49 (Jōdo-ji)

C3

50 Temple 50 (Hanta-ji)

B3

51 Temple 51 (Ishite-ji)

B3

52 Temple 52 (Taisan-ji)

B3

53 Temple 53 (Enmyō-ji)

B3

54 Temple 54 (Enmei-ji)

C2

55 Temple 55 (Nankō-bō)

C2

56 Temple 56 (Taisan-ji)

C2

57 Temple 57 (Eifuku-ji)

C2

58 Temple 58 (Senyū-ji)

C3

59 Temple 59 (Kokubun-ji)

C3

60 Temple 60 (Yokomine-ji)

C3

61 Temple 61 (Kōon-ji)

C3

62 Temple 62 (Hōju-ji)

C3

63 Temple 63 (Kichijō-ji)

D3

64 Temple 64 (Maegami-ji)

C3

65 Temple 65 (Sankaku-ji)

E3

66 Temple 66 (Unpen-ji)

E2

67 Temple 67 (Daikō-ji)

E2

68 Temple 68 (Jinne-in)

E2

69 Temple 69 (Kanon-ji)

E2

70 Temple 70 (Motoyama-ji)

E2

71 Temple 71 (Iyadani-ji)

E2

72 Temple 72 (Mandara-ji)

E2

73 Temple 73 (Shusshaka-ji)

E2

74 Temple 74 (Kōyama-ji)

E1

75 Temple 75 (Zentsū-ji)

E2

76 Temple 76 (Konzō-ji)

F1

77 Temple 77 (Dōryū-ji)

E1

78 Temple 78 (Gōshō-ji)

E1

79 Temple 79 (Kōshō-in)

F1

80 Temple 80 (Kokubun-ji)

F1

81 Temple 81 (Shiromine-ji)

F1

82 Temple 82 (Negoro-ji)

F1

83 Temple 83 (Ichinomiya-ji)

F1

84 Temple 84 (Yashima-ji)

F1

85 Temple 85 (Yakuri-ji)

F1

86 Temple 86 (Shido-ji)

G1

87 Temple 87 (Nagao-ji)

G1

88 Temple 88 (Ōkubo-ji)

G2

1 Sights

o Temple One: Ryōzen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 霊山寺; %088-689-1111; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/tokushima/01ryozenji; 126 Bandō, Ōasa-

chō) F

Ryōzen-ji is Temple One of the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku pilgrimage. It is

called Temple One because it was the first that temple pilgrims came to after

arriving on Shikoku following a visit to Kōya-san in Wakayama Prefecture to

ask Kōbō Daishi for his support on their journey. Everything you need is here,

from guidebooks (in English too) to pilgrim wear and temple stamp books.

Savour the serenity and the history – the pilgrimage has been walked for 1200

years.

Take a local train from Tokushima to Bandō (板東; ¥260, 20 minutes). The

temple is a 10- to 15-minute walk (about 700m) northwest of the station; the

map at Bandō Station will point you in the right direction.

o Uzu-no-michi Viewing Walkway

VIEWPOINT

(渦の道; %088-683-6262; www.uzunomichi.jp; 772-0053 Naruto Park; ¥510; h9am-6pm, to 5pm Oct-Feb)

For an intriguing bird’s-eye view of the whirlpools, you can walk out along this

breezy 450m-long walkway hanging underneath the Naruto Bridge, which puts

you 42m directly above the action. There is an observation gallery with glass

floors through which you can gaze down at the whirlpools. Check the website

for the best time to view the whirlpools on the day you go.

Otsuka Museum of Art

MUSEUM

(大塚国際美術館; %088-687-3737; www.o-museum.or.jp; Naruto Park; adult/child ¥3240/540;

h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

One from the ‘only in Japan file’, this incredible ‘ceramic board masterpiece

museum’ features more than 1000 replicas of priceless Western art on ceramic

boards in a five-storey museum built inside a mountain at Naruto Park (鳴門

公園). Absolutely mind-boggling; there is even a life-size Sistine Chapel, built

as part of Otsuka Pharmaceutical Group’s 75th anniversary. See the Mona Lisa,

the Last Supper, Guernica and more on ceramic boards that will keep them in

perfect condition for an estimated 2000 years.

Ōnaruto-hashi

BRIDGE

(大鳴門橋)

Linking Shikoku to Awaji-shima, impressive Ōnaruto-hashi was completed in

1985. Later, when the world’s longest suspension bridge, the Akashi Kaikyō-

ōhashi, linking northern Awaji-shima to Kōbe, was completed in 1998,

Tokushima Prefecture finally had a road link to Honshū. It’s 1629m long, its

two towers are 145m in height, and the bridge itself is 42m above the water. On

the Shikoku side and attached under the bridge, the Uzu-no-michi walkway

takes viewers out above the Naruto Whirlpools.

T Tours

o Naruto Whirlpool Sightseeing Boats

BOATING

(鳴門観光汽船; Naruto Kankō Kisen; %088-687-0101; www.uzusio.com/en; 264-1 Oge,

Tosadomariura; per person from ¥1800; hevery 20min 9am-4.20pm)

This company makes regular trips out to see the Naruto whirlpools from the

small port next to the Naruto Kankō-kō (鳴門観光港) bus stop. If you’re

making the effort to do this, check their website to find the best time to head

out that particular day. The whirlpools are at their most impressive roughly

every six hours.

SURFING SHIKOKU

It’s not the North Shore of Oʻahu, but Southern Tokushima is a Japanese surfer’s paradise, with

great waves and relatively few surfers in the water. Despite the prevalence of concrete on the

shoreline, this region has attractive beaches and relaxed, friendly locals – some of whom have been

world travellers and can speak English. The area is growing as a destination, with alternative

lifestylers moving in, setting up tourismrelated lifestyle businesses and catering for a growing

number of visiting foreigners. Shishikui (宍喰) in Tokushima and the two-street beach-bum town

of Ikumi (生見), just over the border in Kōchi are prime spots.

4 Sleeping & Eating

If you are overnighting in the Naruto area, it’s best to take meals at your

accommodation, unless you have a car and are willing to explore. During the

day there are plenty of small, simple eating places primarily catering to

Japanese tourists, such as in Naruto-kōen.

o Seaside Hotel Taimaru Kaigetsu

RYOKAN

¥¥

(シーサイドホテル鯛丸海月; %050-3066-1001; www.taimaru-kaigetsu.com; 15-33

Azafukuike, Tosadomariura; s/tw from ¥9000/12,000; paW)

Just south of Naruto Park, this ryokan has spotless Japanese- and Western-style

rooms, most with a view of the sea and Naruto Bridge. There’s an excellent

onsen-with-a-view on the top floor, a good restaurant on the ground floor, and

free parking. This is a great spot to stay if you have a rental car and are

exploring.

8 Getting There & Around

JR Naruto Station is on the JR Naruto line, 40 minutes north from Tokushima

(¥360). Naruto-kōen can be reached by bus from there in 20 minutes.

The Anan Coast 阿南海岸

The highway running south from Tokushima city along the Anan Coast (阿南

海岸) passes through prosperous little agricultural towns fronted by lazy surf

beaches. It is flanked by hidden temples and spectacular rocky bluffs. Enjoy

the laid-back atmosphere and relaxed attitudes as you get to Surf City, Japan,

occupying both sides of the Tokushima–Kōchi prefectural border.

8 Getting There & Around

The JR Mugi line runs from Tokushima city down the coast as far as Kaifu,

stopping at Hiwasa (¥1090, 1¼ hours). From Kaifu, the private Asa Kaigan

railway runs to Shikisui (¥1880, 2½ hours total travel time from Tokushima)

and Kannoura (for Shirahama).

Seven buses a day run from Kannoura to Muroto-misaki (¥1520, 40 minutes)

via Ikumi. Buses then continue on as far as Nahari and Aki (安芸; ¥2880, 2½

hours), where you can transfer to a train to Kōchi.

Coming the other way, trains run from Kōchi as far as Nahari – but you’ll

have to rely on buses to get you around the cape and up to Kannoura.

Your own wheels are useful here. Rte 55 travels down the coast south of

Tokushima connecting Hiwasa, Shishikui and Ikumi and all the way to Muroto-

misaki.

Hiwasa 日和佐

%0884 / POP 5500

The small fishing town of Hiwasa (日和佐; also known as Minami) provides

respite for road-weary pilgrims with a michi-no-eki (rest stop) on the main road

in the middle of town, not far from the entrance gates to the town’s main

attraction, Yakuō-ji, Temple 23 of the 88. In addition to the usual food stalls,

immaculate restrooms and small market, this place also has a free foot bath.

Stop by and soak your feet. If you are interested in sea turtles, head out to

attractive Ōhama Beach where’s there’s a very good museum and a secluded

hotel.

If you’re struggling with road signs, Hiwasa is the main town in what is now

called Minami town, which covers a large area of southern Tokushima

Prefecture. Road signs now label Hiwasa as Minami, though the train station is

still called Hiwasa and that’s what locals call their town.

1 Sights

o Sea Turtle Museum Caretta

MUSEUM

(うみがめ博物館カレッタ; %0884-77-1110; www.caretta-hiwasa.com; 370-4 Hiwasa-ura;

¥600; h9am-5pm)

Dedicated to sea turtles, the museum’s name – Caretta – comes from the

scientific name for the Loggerhead Sea Turtle. Inside, there’s a lot of turtle

info, small tanks and a hatchery with baby turtles aged up to three years. The

outside pools house turtles from age four upwards. The facility is on Ōhama

Beach (大浜), known as a turtle egg-laying spot from May to August.

o Temple 23: Yakuō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 薬王寺; %0884-77-0023; www.yakuouji.net; 285-1 Teramae Okugawachi, Minami-chō) F

The major attraction of Hiwasa, Yakuō-ji, Temple 23, is the last temple in

Tokushima Prefecture. Yakuō-ji dates back to the year 726, and is famous as a

yakuyoke-no-tera (a temple with special powers to ward off ill fortune during

unlucky years). The unluckiest age for men is 42; for women, 33 is the one to

watch out for. Kōbō Daishi is said to have visited in 815, the year of his own

42nd birthday.

The long set of stone steps leading up to the main temple building comes in

two stages: 33 steps for the women, followed by another 42 for the men. The

tradition is for pilgrims to put a coin on each step – when it’s busy, you may

find the steps practically overflowing with one-yen coins.

Shishikui 宍喰

%0884 / POP 3550

Just north of the Tokushima–Kōchi prefectural border, Shishikui (宍喰),

formerly a rural village focused on fishing and farming, is becoming a hit with

young visitors, particularly those interested in surfing, diving, sea kayaking and

other ocean-based activities. Throw in an onsen, some seriously good little

eateries and you’ve got a great place to stay for a couple of days.

2 Activities

o Kaanapali Diving Center

DIVING

(カアナパリダイビングセンター; %0884-76-3243; http://kaanapali-diving.jp; 97-10

Matsubara)

With friendly English-speaking staff, decades of experience diving in this

region and a roadside shop in the middle of Shishikui, these are the people to

go diving with. An introductory dive including equipment costs ¥13,500; a

two-dive trip for experienced divers costs ¥15,000 with equipment. They also

have rental gear and run snorkelling trips.

o Pavilion Surf School

SURFING

(%0884-76-3277; www.kaorimayaguchi.com; 215-1 Matsubara, Shishikui-ura; surfing/SUP lesson from

¥5400/6480)

Based in Pavilion Surf’s shop just east of Shishikui, Kaori Mayaguchi runs

surfing and SUP lessons and tours with gear and wetsuits included. Her parents

help run the place; the family lived in Honolulu for a number of years and

speak English. Surfboard rentals cost ¥3240 per day. It’s easy to spot, two

doors east of 7-Eleven.

Shishikui Onsen

ONSEN

(宍喰温泉; %0884-76-3300; www.hotel-riviera.co.jp; 226-1 Aza Matsubara; adult/child ¥600/300; h6.30-9am & 11am-11pm)

On the upper floor of the Hotel Riviera (ホテルリビエラ; %0884-76-3300;

www.hotel-riviera.co.jp; 226-1 Aza Matsubara; r per person incl/excl breakfast from ¥8000/8500; paW) complex on the main road in Shishikui, this onsen boasts that its natural water

comes from 1km below the ground. The main baths look out to the sea. There

is also a restaurant and a shop on-site.

T Tours

Blue Marine Sea Kayaking

KAYAKING

(ブルーマリンシーカヤック; %0884-76-3100; http://marine.kaiyo-kankou.jp; 28-45

Takegashima; guided kayaking trips ¥3000; h10am & 2pm)

Popular guided sea-kayaking tours around Takegashima island, a rocky island

connected to the mainland by a bridge, 2km south of Shishikui. It also offers

SUP (¥6000; 90 minutes) and Blue Marine underwater-viewing boat tours

(¥1800; 45 minutes). Check out the various options online in Japanese.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Pavilion Surf & Lodge

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(%0884-76-3277; www.pavilion-surf.com; 215-1 Matsubara, Shishikuiura; r per person from ¥3000; pnaW)

This place only has basic surfer accommodation, but all are welcome. Rooms

are simple, with beds, air-con and nothing else. Shared male and female

bathroom facilities and a kitchen occupy other buildings. That said, this is a

great place for budget travellers. The friendly and enthusiastic owners speak

English, having lived in Hawaii.

It’s next to the sea slightly north of Shishikui, two doors east of 7-Eleven.

Pension Shishikui

PENSION

¥¥

(ペンションししくい; %0884-76-2130; www.p-shishikui.com; 84-18 Akazome; r per person

incl meals from ¥9720; paW)

Perfect for families or romantic getaways, charming Pension Shishikui, with an

English-speaking owner, occupies a snug cove with a private beach (protected

by a sea wall). All rooms, whether in the main house or in freestanding log

cabins, have ocean views and private bathrooms. Check the location on the

website; it’s on the first road just south of Shishikui Bridge.

o Bahati

INTERNATIONAL

¥

(%0884-76-2696; 222-1 Shishikui; mains from ¥800; h11.30am-3pm & 6-9pm)

A superb little spot a tad east of Shishikui, Bahati is run by keen surfer Tsuji-

san. Serving everything from pasta to katsu-kareē (pork cutlet, curry and rice),

Bahati has surfboards on the rafters, surf photos on the walls, indoor and

outdoor seating, plus a cool and relaxed vibe. If Bahati is late opening, it’s

because Tsuji is out surfing.

Cafe Hikōsen

CAFE

¥

(ひこうせん; %0884-76-3488; 82-2 Shishikuiura; breakfast ¥540; h8.30am-5pm Fri-Tue)

This small roadside cafe is a locals’ favourite, particularly for the impressive

Japanese/Western breakfast that will keep everyone satisfied. Expect a warm,

friendly welcome, an English menu (and possibly an English speaker), and

some gorgeous pottery pieces.

Ikumi 生見

%0887 / POP 800

On the Kōchi side of the prefectural border with Tokushima, Ikumi (生見) is

beach-bum paradise. Surfers from all over Japan head to the lovely beach here,

which is lined with some good budget accommodation, a few eateries that

won’t break the bank, and a surf shop or two. If you’d like a relaxed day or two

looking at a different side of Japan, Ikumi is a great place to hang out. Lie back

on the beach and enjoy the sun, catch a few waves, soak in the sea, thumb

through surf magazines and enjoy a cool beverage – or two!

Shirahama (白浜), 2km north of Ikumi and just in Kōchi Prefecture, offers a

wide, protected beach and is a good spot for families.

2 Activities

Surf Shop More

SURFING

(%0887-29-3615; www.surfshopmore.com; 575-1 Ikumi; 2hr surfing/body-boarding lessons ¥5000) Head to Surf Shop More for all your surfing needs, be they surf lessons, rentals

or shopping. Rental costs are board-and-wetsuit/board-only ¥5000/3000, body-

board and fins ¥3000. The shop is located in the heart of the action at Ikumi

Beach.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Ikumi White Beach Hotel

HOTEL

¥

(生見ホワイトビーチホテル; %0887-29-3018; www.wbhotel.net; 575-11 Ikumi; r per person

from ¥4200; paW)

This clean, laid-back Ikumi beachfront hotel has Japanese- and Western-style

rooms more or less right on the beach. Fall out the door and into the waves.

You’ll need to bring your own towels. Inexpensive restaurant Olu-Olu is part of

the complex and open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There’s plenty of

parking.

South Shore

INN

¥

(サウスショア; %0887-29-3211; www.southshore-ikumi.com; 12-10 Ikumi; r per person incl/excl

meals ¥7250/3800; paWs)

A sunny, simple inn with shared bathrooms, South Shore sits about a block

from the beach in Ikumi and has a relaxed Hawaiian-esque vibe. The cute

attached cafe and tiny pool area are convivial spots to hang out après-surf.

Minshuku Ikumi

MINSHUKU

¥

(民宿いくみ; %0887-24-3838; www.ikumiten.com; 7-1 Ikumi; r per person incl breakfast ¥4100; paW)

This cosy, family-run minshuku (guesthouse) sits right alongside the highway

in Ikumi. It’s a popular surfer’s choice, thanks to the well-presented rooms and

the helpful, knowledgeable owner, Ten. Check out the website; there are often

online specials.

Tōyō Shirahama Resort Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

(東洋白浜リゾートホテル; %0887-29-3344; www.shirahama-resort-hotel.amebaownd.com;

88-8 Shirahama, Tōyō-chō; s/d from ¥5400/10,800; paW)

It’s hard to miss this large hotel in Shirahama as you’re driving along the coast.

Set back from an attractive beach, it’s a five-storey white building. Although

it’s dated, rooms are simple and clean. Protected by headlands on both sides,

the nearby beach isn’t a top surfing spot, but more of a splash-about-in-the-

water place that’s fun for families.

o Aunt Dinah

JAPANESE CURRY

¥

(アント・ダイナ; %0887-29-2080; 24-107 Kawauchi, Tōyō-chō; meals from ¥800; h10am-3pm

& 5.30-9pm Wed-Mon)

Get ready for a friendly welcome, country music and a great range of curries,

pastas and pizzas at this rustic spot on the main road near the impossibleto-

miss white Tōyō Shirahama Resort Hotel at Shirahama. Aunt Dinah’s has a

useful English menu.

Olu-Olu

CAFE

¥

(オルオル; %0887-29-3018; www.wbhotel.net; meals ¥800-1000; h7am-2pm & 5-8pm)

Ikumi White Beach Hotel runs an inexpensive restaurant called Olu-Olu,

featuring a picture menu and plenty of dog-eared Japanese surf mags. Eat

inside, or there’s a hole-in-the-wall ordering spot and terrace for eating outside

while gazing at the waves. It serves everything from hotdogs (¥420) to katsu-

kare (¥1030).

WORTH A TRIP

TEMPLE 21: TAIRYŪ-JI

For 1200 years, henro have struggled up steep mountain paths to get to the magnificent

mountaintop temple, Tairyū-ji ( MAP ; 太龍寺; %0884-62-2021;

www.88shikokuhenro.jp/tokushima/21tairyuji; 2 Ryūzan Kamo-chō, Anan-shi) F. A 2.7km-long ropeway (太龍寺ロープウェイ; %0884-62-3100; www.shikoku-cable.co.jp; 76 Tano, Naka-chō; one way/return ¥1300/2470; hevery 20min 7.20am-5pm), the longest in western Japan, makes easy

work of the ascent, giving one and all the opportunity to visit this atmospheric haven.

Magnificent views justify the effort to get here. Getting to the rural ropeway base will be a lot

easier with your own wheels, but you can also get here by bus from Tokushima Station in 1½

hours. There’s a museum, a restaurant and a place to stay at the bottom of the ropeway. Make sure

you take your passport as there is often a half-price discount to foreign visitors.

Muroto-misaki 室戸岬

%0887

Muroto-misaki (室戸岬) is one of Shikoku’s two great capes that jut out into

the Pacific. In Japanese literature, Muroto is famed as one of the wildest spots

in the nation and as the ‘doorway to the land of the dead’. To pilgrims, it is the

place where Kōbō Daishi achieved enlightenment and many come to try to do

the same. On a calm day, the Pacific is like a millpond; in bad weather Muroto

is pounded by huge waves and buffeted by the wind. Visitors can explore Kōbō

Daishi’s bathing hole among the rock pools, and the cave where he meditated.

A henro trail leads up through bush to Temple 24, Hotsumisaki-ji, founded by

Kōbō Daishi in the early 9th century.

Muroto is a designated Unesco Global Geopark, where sites and landscapes

of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of

protection, education and sustainable development.

1 Sights

o Temple 24: Hotsumisaki-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 最御崎寺; Higashi-dera; %0887-23-0024; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/24hotsumisakiji; 4058-1 Muroto-misaki-chō) F

This gorgeous hilltop temple is considered one of the most important on the 88

Temple Pilgrimage because it is here at Muroto that Kōbō Daishi achieved

enlightenment. Either walk up on the age-old henro trail that starts just

northeast of the cape, or drive up the winding road a kilometre to the northwest

of the cape. Ancient buildings and statues contribute to a sacred atmosphere.

Muroto Unesco Global Geopark Center

MUSEUM

(室戸ユネスコ世界ジオパーク; %0887-22-5161; www.muroto-geo.jp/en; 1810-2

Murotomisaki-cho; h9am-5pm) F

The Muroto Geopark was designed to help create a better understanding about

how local people have been dealing with ever-changing landforms. The area’s

geography is fascinating and it possesses a rich heritage of diverse geological

formations. The park has walking, cycling and driving routes – head to the

Geopark Center to learn more and obtain maps.

4 Sleeping

Temple 24: Hotsumisaki-ji Shukubō

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(%0887-23-0024; Hotsumisaki-ji; per person incl/excl meals ¥6500/4200; pnaW)

Run by Temple 24: Hotsumisaki-ji, this is a great opportunity to stay at a

peaceful shukubō with spotless tatami rooms or bedrooms and a communal

bath, and to try traditional vegetarian pilgrim food. Temples on the pilgrimage

have been catering to pilgrims for 1200 years and as well as providing a

service, they make extra income this way.

Iya Valley 祖谷渓

The spectacular Iya Valley (祖谷渓) is a special place: its staggeringly steep

gorges and thick mountain forests lure travellers to seek respite from the hectic

‘mainland’ lifestyle. Winding your way around narrow cliff-hanging roads as

the icy water of the Iya-gawa shoots along the ancient valley floor is a blissful

travel experience. Top-notch onsen are well within reach, while evening

entertainment is nothing more strenuous than sampling the local Iya soba

(buckwheat noodles) and reliving your day’s visual feast.

The earliest records of the valley describe a group of shamans fleeing from

persecution in Nara in the 9th century. At the end of the 12th century, Iya

famously became the last refuge for members of the vanquished Heike clan

following their defeat at the hands of the Minamoto in the Gempei Wars. Their

descendants are believed to live in the mountain villages to this day.

Iya Valley

1 Top Sights

1 Nagoro

D4

2 Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi

D3

3 Temple 66: Unpen-ji

A1

1 Sights

4 Kazura-bashi

B3

5 Peeing Boy Statue

B3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 Forest Adventure Iya Valley

B3

7 Happy Raft

A4

8 Iya Onsen

B3

9 Oku-Iya Monorail

C3

10 Tsurugi-san Chairlift

D3

11 Tsurugi-san Hiking

D4

12 Unpenji Ropeway

A1

4 Sleeping

13 Chiiori

B3

14 Guesthouse & Cafe Yoki

B3

15 Happy Guest House

A4

Hotel Iya Onsen

(see 5)

16 Hotel Kazura-bashi

B3

Iyashi no Onsen-kyō

(see 9)

17 Ku-Nel-Asob

A3

18 Sunriver Ōboke

A3

Tabi-no-yado Kiri-no-mine

(see 10)

Tsurugi-san Chōjō Hutte

(see 11)

5 Eating

19 Iya Bijin

B3

20 Iya-soba Momiji-tei

A3

21 Soba Dōjō

C3

8 Getting There & Around

This is one of those places where, if you’re going to make the effort to get here,

it’s best to have your own wheels.

Public transport can only get you so far out here. A few buses head out daily

into the valley from Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal near JR Awa-Ikeda Station, on

the Dosan line (¥3340, 1¼ hours from either Takamatsu or Kōchi), which runs

between Takamatsu and Kōchi. Get details at the Miyoshi City Tourism

Association (三好市観光協会; %0883-76-0877; www.miyoshi-tourism.jp/en; 1810-18 Sarada, Ikeda-chō; h9am-6pm).

DON’T MISS

BEST TEMPLES

Temple 45: Iwaya-ji

Temple 51: Ishite-ji

Temple 38: Kongōfuku-ji

Temple 21: Tairyū-ji

Temple 88: Ōkubo-ji

Temple 66: Unpen-ji

Nishi Iya 西祖谷

Nishi-Iya (西祖谷, West Iya) is the more accessible end of the Iya Valley, and

tour buses stream over Rte 45 from Ōboke to fill the monstrous car-and-bus

parking area that casts a huge shadow over the poor little vine bridge that

people come to see. The good news is that most of those buses then fill up and

head back over the hill.

For a most pleasurable visit, use old Rte 32 from Iya-guchi, enjoy the cliff-

hugging, winding road that requires plenty of concentration, and plan to

overnight in the valley after the day trippers are gone. Nishi-Iya is nice, but

head east, further up the valley for a more remote and ‘away from it all’ Iya

experience.

1 Sights & Activities

Peeing Boy Statue

LANDMARK

( MAP ; 小便小僧)

The Iya Valley’s famous statue of a boy peeing into the gorge is turning 50! Put

in place in 1968, ‘Peeing Boy’ has been photographed urinating into the valley

far below by countless visitors. This is supposedly what local boys did at this

spot before ‘Peeing Boy’ was erected. Guaranteed to put a smile on every

visitor’s face!

Kazura-bashi

BRIDGE

( MAP ; かずら橋; ¥550; h8am-5pm)

This remarkable vine bridge is one of only three left in the valley – the other

two are further east in Higashi Iya. If you do visit this bridge, also check out

the nearby Biwa-no-taki, an impressive 50m-high waterfall.

o Iya Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 祖谷温泉; %0883-75-2311; www.iyaonsen.co.jp; 367-2 Matsuo Matsumoto; ¥1700; hnon-hotel guests 7.30am-6pm)

On Rte 32, this onsen is a great experience. At Hotel Iya Onsen, a cable car

descends a steep cliff-face to some sulphurous, open-air baths on the riverside.

A fantastic place to slow down, enjoy spectacular views of the forested gorge

and, of course, soak in the onsen, even if you’re not staying there.

Forest Adventure Iya Valley

ADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP ; %080-6284-2105; http://fa-iya.foret-aventure.jp; 379 Oinouchi, Nishi-iya; from ¥2200) Feel like a thrill? Zip-line over the Iya-gawa or through the forest. The

Adventure Course includes the forest and a return zip-line ride over the river

for ¥4000. Allow two hours.

DON’T MISS

IYA’S VINE BRIDGES

The wisteria vine bridges (kazura-bashi) of the Iya Valley are glorious remnants of a remote and

timeless Japan. Crossing the bridges has for centuries been notoriously difficult, which suited the

bandits and humbled warriors who took refuge in the secluded gorges. The bridges are feats of

ancient engineering, undertaken roughly a thousand years ago, and were formed by tying together

the wild vines that hung on either side of the narrow valley. Only in recent years have the bridges

been reinforced with side rails, planks and wire.

Only three kazura-bashi survive, one heavily touristed bridge at Nishi Iya, which is dwarfed by

its own car park, and another pair of ‘husband and wife’ bridges at Higashi Iya, which is a further

30km east – the secluded, deep gorge setting is worth the extra effort.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Guesthouse & Cafe Yoki

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; %080-6284-2105; www.yokicafeguesthouse.com; 375-3 Nishi-iya; r per person from ¥4000; paW)

A great new budget option in Nishi Iya, this guesthouse and cafe sit right next

to the eastern side of the bridge over the Iya-gawa on Route 45 from Ōboke.

Lovely little cafe downstairs where guests can eat (also open to the public from

11am to 4pm) and Japanesestyle rooms upstairs. Laundry, kitchen, wi-fi and a

friendly, relaxed welcome.

o Hotel Iya Onsen

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP ; ホテル祖谷温泉; %883-75-2311; www.iyaonsen.co.jp/english; 367-28 Matsuo Matsumoto, Ikeda-cho; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥18,000; paW)

If you’ve got the funds, this is the place to stay. Extremely foreigner-friendly

with a multilingual website, a mix of tatami and Western-style rooms,

spectacular meals in a restaurant overlooking the gorge, plus onsen baths at

hotel level and rotemburo that are close to river level and reached by a cable

car (free for guests).

Hotel Kazura-bashi

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP ; ホテルかずら橋; %0883-87-2171; www.kazurabashi.co.jp; 33-1 Zentoku; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥16,000; pnaW)

This lovely hotel not far from Kazura-bashi offers spacious, comfortable,

Japanese-style rooms with mountain views. Beautifully prepared traditional

meals are served by attentive staff. A funky cable car ferries guests up to the

hotel’s highlight: a gorgeous, open-air onsen on the hill. Nonguests are

welcome to use the onsen (¥1200) between 10am to 4pm.

o Iya Bijin

SOBA

¥

( MAP ; 祖谷美人; %0883-87-2009; www.iyabijin.jp; 9-3 Zentoku; meals from ¥700; h8am-5pm)

For a taste of local Iya soba , head to Iya Bijin, in an attractive black-and-white

building with lanterns hanging out the front, overlooking the gorge. Try a

simple plate of zaru soba (cold noodles with dipping sauce), or a lunch set

including regional dishes such as dekomawashi (grilled skewers of taro, tofu

and konnyaku – devil’s tongue), boar and wild vegetables.

8 Getting There & Away

Come by bus from either JR Awa-Ikeda station or JR Ōboke station. With your

own wheels either drive up the Iya-gawa valley on exciting old Rte 32 from

Iya-guchi, or come over the hill from Ōboke on Rte 45.

Higashi Iya 東祖谷

Also known as Oku-Iya, meaning ‘deep Iya’, Higashi-Iya (東祖谷, East Iya) is

the area to go to for an extremely remote Shikoku experience. The valley

narrows, the road climbs and craggy mountains encroach from both sides. The

spectacular Kazura-bashi here are an absolute pleasure to visit, with minimal

visitors getting this far, and the ‘scarecrow village’ of Nagoro is an enthralling

eye-opener. Few reach here as Rte 439 is narrow, windy and requires great care

– don’t become a road statistic! If you carry on up to the head of the valley,

you’ll be at the foot of Tsurugi-san, Shikoku’s second-highest peak.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

CHIIORI: A RURAL RETREAT

This once-abandoned, 18th-century, thatched-roof farmhouse (The Cottage of the Flute; 篪庵;

www.chiiori.org; 209 Higashi-iya-tsurui, Miyoshi-shi; high season s/d from ¥34,000/36,000, lower

rates for groups; pnaW) S in the remote Iya Valley, looks out over forested hillsides and plunging

gorges. The house was bought as a ruin by the author and aesthete Alex Kerr in the early 1970s

(who went on to romanticise the Iya Valley in his award-winning book Lost Japan) and has been

painstakingly restored to its original brilliance. The glistening red-pine floorboards surround irori

(traditional hearths) under soaring rafters. There are shōji (sliding rice-paper screen doors) and

antique furnishings, but also a gleaming, fully-equipped modern kitchen and a gorgeous bathroom,

complete with hinoki (Japanese cypress) tub.

Part of the project’s mission has been to work with residents to promote sustainable, community-

based tourism and realise the financial potential of traditional life, which until recently many locals

saw as backward and valueless. Since the establishment of the non-profit Chiiori Trust in 2005, the

local government has approached the trust to help restore several smaller traditional houses in the

area. These houses have been renovated to a similarly high standard and aesthetic as Chiiori and

are also available as accommodation. All are outfitted with modern kitchens and bathrooms, and

even washing machines. Follow the Higashi-Iya Ochiai link on the Chiiori Trust website for

information and rates on these smaller houses.

To stay in these extraordinary environs, you must reserve in advance; payments must be made in

cash. Because of the remote locations of Chiiori and the other houses, the Chiiori Trust strongly

recommends that guests bring private vehicles. Hire a rental car and stock up on food at the

supermarket before going, because it’s very remote.

1 Sights & Activities

o Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi

BRIDGE

( MAP ; 奥祖谷二重かずら橋; ¥550; h7am-5pm)

Away from the crowds and tour buses, the spectacular Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-

bashi are two secluded vine bridges hanging side by side high over the river.

Cross one and come back over the other. A self-propelled, two-seated wooden

cable-cart is another fun way to cross the river; there’s a small public camping

area on the other side. There are also a couple of spots where you can get down

to the river and enjoy the serenity.

o Nagoro

PUBLIC ART

( MAP ; 名頃かかしの里; Nagoro Scarecrow Village)

If you’re travelling along Rte 439, it’s not a matter of ‘blink and you’ll miss it’,

but blink, and blink again, because you may have a hard time believing your

eyes when you hit Nagoro. Those ‘people’ – waiting at the bus stop, gossiping

on a porch, toiling in the fields – are life-sized scarecrow-type dolls made by

resident Ayano Tsukimi as a way of memorialising former inhabitants of her

hometown. Nagoro is 12km west of Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi.

The figures are surprisingly lifelike from afar and strikingly expressive up

close, each with a unique posture and face. Equal parts eerie and sweet, the

dolls of Nagoro create a surreal tableau amid the quiet river valley. For a look

into the village, check out the beautiful short film Valley of Dolls

(www.vimeo.com/92453765), created by the German filmmaker Fritz

Schumann, who visited with Ayano-san.

Oku-Iya Monorail

RAIL

( MAP ; 奥祖谷モノレール; %0883-88-2975; adult/child ¥2000/1000; h8.30am-4pm)

At Iyashi no Onsen-kyō, this is a cutesy little monorail with two-seater cars

that slowly move passengers along a 4.6km course through the mostly

untouched forest. Surprisingly, it also climbs nearly 600m in height and takes

passengers up to 1400m on a loop track to see different vegetation. The gentle

ride takes 70 minutes.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Iyashi no Onsen-kyō

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; いやしの温泉郷; %0883-88-2975; http://iyashino-onsenkyo.com; 28 Sugeoi, Higashi Iya;

r per person incl meals from ¥14,000; honsen 10am-9pm; pnaW)

Off the main road between Kyōjō and the Higashi Iya vine bridges is this

lovely and unpretentious hotel and hot-springs complex, with Japanese- and

Westernstyle rooms, an onsen and a restaurant. A smattering of Japanese-

language skills would be helpful here. Nonguests can eat at the attractive

restaurant. They also run an intriguing 4.6km monorail up into the mountains.

Soba Dōjō

SOBA

¥

( MAP ; そば道場; %0883-88-2577; zaru soba ¥800; h11am-5pm Fri-Wed)

At Soba Dōjō on Route 439, you can sample a bowl of zaru soba and even

make your own (¥2500; reservations required). The restaurant has a rusty

reddish roof, and a brown curtain hanging over the door. If you’re driving,

you’ll pass within a metre or two of the front door.

8 Getting There & Away

Get to Higashi Iya either by following Route 439 up the valley from Nishi Iya,

or by heading down the valley from Mi-no-koshi, at the foot of Tsurugi-san.

The roads here are narrow, windy and too precarious for tour buses.

Ōboke & Koboke 大歩危・小歩危

Ōboke (大歩危) and Koboke (小歩危) are scenic gorges on the Yoshino-gawa,

which fluctuates from languid green waters to Class IV rapids. These are the

upper reaches of the same Yoshino River that flows out into the Pacific Ocean

near Tokushima city.

The area has become a popular destination for adventure sports. Around 20

companies run white-water rafting and kayaking trips from mid-March to mid-

October. Happy Raft ( MAP ; ハッピーラフト; %0887-75-0500; www.happyraft.com;

221-1 Ikadagi; hmid-Mar–mid-Oct), steps from JR Tosa Iwahara Station, operates

sensational rafting trips and canyoning adventures (¥9000) with English-

speaking guides (half-day ¥5500 to ¥7500, full day ¥10,000 to ¥15,500).

With plenty of outdoor action, there’s a revitalised vibe going on in this

remote part of mountainous Shikoku. You’ll find activity operators, new

guesthouses and, especially on weekends and in holiday periods, plenty of

young people, making the upper reaches of the Yoshino River the envy of other

off-the-beaten-track villages.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Happy Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; %0887-75-0500; www.happyraft.com; guesthouses per person ¥4000; pW) Run by the local outfit Happy Raft, these five small guesthouses can each

accommodate up to 10 and all come with a kitchen, a stocked bathroom and

fans. The original guesthouse is a self-contained and fully-restored farmhouse

with a tatami room overlooking the Yoshino Valley. The guesthouses are

scattered around the valley – check the website for details.

Ku-Nel-Asob

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

( MAP ; 空音遊; %090-9778-7133; www.k-n-a.com; 442 Enoki; r per person incl dinner/breakfast & dinner ¥9720/10,800; paW)

Four simple, attractive tatami rooms are available in this near-century-old

house, perched on a beautiful bluff overlooking the river. Meals here are vegan

and served family-style. Since the house doesn’t have a bath, the friendly

English-speaking owners provide transfers and entry to a local onsen.

Reservations must be made at least three days in advance; reserve earlier if you

can.

The owners also offer free pick-ups/drop-offs at JR Ōboke Station, 3km

away.

Sunriver Ōboke

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; サンリバー大歩危; %0883-84-2111; www.oobokeonsen.jp; 1259-1 Yamashiro-chō, Nishiu; s/tw from ¥6000/12,000; paW)

This large riverside hotel between Ōboke and Koboke stations has had a new

lease of life due to Japan’s influx of international visitors. It’s dated, but

features free wi-fi in the lobby, free parking and a natural onsen on the high

floors. There are both Western-style and tatami rooms. Good for those with a

rental car.

o Iya-soba Momiji-tei

SOBA

¥¥

( MAP ; 祖谷そば もみじ亭; %0883-84-1117; 1468-1 Yamashiro-chō Nishiu; meals ¥900-2000;

h10am-5pm Thu-Tue)

At the West-West centre, Momiji-tei offers a good opportunity to try Iya soba.

It’s the lovely old building in the garden at the northern end of the complex.

Try the tempura soba set (¥1450), either hot or cold.

8 Information

Ōboke Station Tourist Information Office (大歩危駅観光内所; %0883-76-0877;

www.miyoshi-tourism.jp/en; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun) This extremely efficient office with English-speaking staff on hand and tons of

brochures and maps can be found in tiny Ōboke station. Staff can help with

organising your trip over the hill and into the Iya Valley.

River Station West-West Information (%0887-84-1117; www.west-west.com) Stop by for tourist information, river gear at the Mont Bell shop and ramen or soba.

8 Getting There & Away

Both JR Ōboke and JR Koboke are stations on the JR Dosan line that connects

Takamatsu with Kōchi. JR Ōboke is closer to Kōchi (¥3180, 50 minutes) than

to Takamatsu (¥3710, 1½ hours).

Tsurugi-san 剣山

At 1955m, Tsurugi-san (剣山) is the secondhighest mountain in Shikoku and

one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains. Unlike the sharp-edged peak of

Shikoku’s highest mountain, Ishizuchi-san to the west, which is said to

represent a strict father, the summit of Tsurugi-san is gently rounded and

frequently likened to a gentle mother.

The summit plain is known as Heike-nobaba and is said to have served as

the 12th-century training field for military horses of local Heike warriors.

When the Heike clan succumbed to the rival Genji warriors at the Battle of

Dan-noura in 1185, legend tells us they buried their emperor’s sword at the

peak of Tsurugi-san; hence the mountain’s nickname of Ken-zan (sword peak).

From Mi-no-koshi, either hike or take the chairlift (剣山観光登山リフト;

%0883-62-2772; www.turugirift.com; Mi-no-koshi; one way/return ¥1030/1860; h9am-5pm, last return 4.45pm; mid-Apr–late-Nov) up to the top station. If you’re relatively fit, climbing to

the peak is a breeze from there. Enjoy the views, and if the weather is good and

you’re up for more walking, head southwest and climb Jirōgyū (1929m) on an

easily identifiable trail. Allow 1½ hours for the return hike.

There are trails all over these mountains and with careful planning, a three-

day hike from Tsurugi-san west to Miune-san (1894m) and a descent into Kubo

in Higashi Iya is possible.

HIKING SHIKOKU

Shikoku is a very mountainous island and there are some great hikes. The island has two of Japan’s

Hyakumeizan – the 100 Famous Mountains – in the form of Ishizuchi-san, the highest peak in

western Japan at 1982m, and Tsurugi-san at 1955m. Both can be climbed as day hikes, with the

added possibility of multiday hikes thrown in. Staying at a mountain hut in Japan can be a fun

experience!

Of course, the best-known walk on Shikoku is around the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku

Pilgrimage. If you don’t have 40 to 60 days or the inclination to walk the whole pilgrimage,

consider walking part of it. Hiking the first five temples, from Ryōzen-ji to Jizō-ji, will take half a

day.

There are henro-michi (old pilgrim trails) between many of the temples. The old mountain trail

from Temple 11 to Temple 12, both in Tokushima, is considered the hardest climb on the

pilgrimage. There are even modern forms of transport such as ropeways and cable cars up to some

temples. The Unpenji Ropeway whisks pilgrims up to 900m and spectacular Temple 66, Unpen-ji.

From there it’s a 10km downhill walk to Temple 67, Daikō-ji.

4 Sleeping

Tabi-no-yado Kiri-no-mine

MINSHUKU

¥

( MAP ; 旅の宿霧の峰; %0883-67-5211; www.kirinomine.jp; Mi-no-koshi; r per person incl/excl 2

meals ¥7000/4000; paW)

This one-stop shop in the car park at Mi-no-koshi has all the bases covered,

with a restaurant, a gift shop and a minshuku, all within a minute’s walk of the

chairlift station. Rooms are small and facilities shared, but there is a bath for

tired hikers and laundry facilities that guests can use.

Tsurugi-san Chōjō Hutte

HUT

¥¥

( MAP ; 剣山頂上ヒュッテ; %088-622-0633; www.tsurugisan-hutte.com; Tsurugi-san; per person incl/excl meals ¥8500/5300)

Just below the peak, Tsurugi-san Chōjō Hutte offers basic lodgings. It’s simple,

as you’d expect at a mountain hut, but the food tastes great at 1955m, the bath

is claimed to be the highest ofuro in western Japan and you’ll sleep well as

‘lights out’ is at 9pm. Best of all, it’s not far to go for a mountaintop sunrise.

8 Getting There & Away

Tsurugi-san is at the head of the Iya Valley, so if you’ve been exploring Iya,

carry on up Rte 439 to Mi-no-koshi. Alternatively, head up the fascinating Rte

438 from the main Yoshino Valley to the north at Sadamitsu. For a long,

mountainous approach, take Rte 438 from Tokushima city to the east.

It is possible to get to Mi-no-koshi by bus, but it’s not easy. Check for the

latest at a tourist information office.

KŌCHI PREFECTURE 高知県

The largest of Shikoku’s four prefectures, Kōchi Prefecture (高知県) spans

the Pacific coastline between the two capes of Murotomisaki and Ashizuri-

misaki. Cut off from the rest of Japan by the mountains and sea, the province

once known as Tosa was traditionally regarded as one of the wildest and

most remote places in the country. To pilgrims, Kōchi is known as Shūgyō-

no-dōjō, the place of practice, and has a reputation as ‘the testing ground’.

Although the trip through Tosa makes up more than a third of the

pilgrimage, only 16 of the 88 Temples are located in the province.

Kōchi Prefecture is a good place for outdoor types; it brims with scenic

spots both in and along its rugged mountains and coastlines. Check out

www.visitkochijapan.com.

Kōchi 高知

%088 / POP 350,000

Kōchi (高知) is a smart, compact city with a deserved reputation for

enjoying a good time. The castle here is largely undamaged and remains a

fine example of Japanese architecture. Excellent access to Murotomisaki,

Ashizuri-misaki and the Iya Valley, and easy day trips to caves, beaches and

mountains make Kōchi a perfect base for travels around the island. Also

claimed by Kōchi is a samurai of great national significance – during the

Meiji Restoration, Sakamoto Ryōma was instrumental in bringing down the

feudal government.

The central part of the city is 12km north and inland from the sea and the

liveliest part of town is where the tramlines cross near Harimaya-bashi, a

tiny red replica of a bridge made famous by song and film in Japan. The

main Obiyamachi shopping arcade runs perpendicular to Harimayabashi-

dōri. This action is about 1km south of JR Kōchi station.

Kōchi

1 Top Sights

1 Kōchi Castle Museum of History

A3

2 Kōchi-jō

A3

3 Sunday Market

B3

4 Sleeping

4 EN Hostel & Local Community

D2

5 Richmond Hotel

C3

6 Sansuien

A4

5 Eating

7 Hirome Ichiba

B3

8 Kinako Cafe

C3

9 Tosa Binchōtanyaki Onomi

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

10 Amontillado

C3

11 Tosa-shu Baru

B3

1 Sights

o Kōchi-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高知城; 1-2-1 Marunouchi; ¥420; h9am-5pm) Kōchi-jō is one of just a dozen castles in Japan to have survived with its

original tenshu-kaku (keep) intact. The castle was originally built during the

first decade of the 17th century by Yamanouchi Katsutoyo, who was

appointed daimyō by Tokugawa Ieyasu after he fought on the victorious

Tokugawa side in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. A major fire destroyed

much of the original structure in 1727; the castle was largely rebuilt between

1748 and 1753.

The castle was the product of an age of peace – it never came under attack

and for the remainder of the Tokugawa period it was more like a stately

home than a military fortress. The fee is for entry to the castle itself; it’s free

to walk in the surrounding grounds.

o Kōchi Castle Museum of History

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高知城歴史博物館; %088-871-1600; www.kochi-johaku.jp; 2-7-5

Ōtesuji; ¥500; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun)

This new museum (opened in 2017), celebrating the history of Kōchi castle,

is an architectural achievement in its own right. Entry is free to the museum

shop (1st floor) and to the 2nd floor cafe and terrace – both with marvellous

views of the castle and its grounds. The entry fee gives you access to the 3rd

floor where you’ll find interesting exhibitions on the history of the castle and

the city of Kōchi.

o Sunday Market

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日曜市; Ōte-suji; h5am-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, 5.30am-5pm Sun Oct-Mar) Our favourite street market in Shikoku is 300 years old and takes place every

Sunday along 1.3km of Ōte-suji, the main road leading to the castle. Around

430 colourful stalls sell fresh produce, tonics and tinctures, knives, flowers,

garden stones, wooden antiques and everything else imaginable.

Temple 31: Chikurin-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 竹林寺; %088-882-3085; www.chikurinji.com; 3577 Godaisan) F

At Godaisan in the east of the city, you’ll find Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 of the

88. The extensive grounds feature a five-storey pagoda and thousands of

statues of the Bodhisattva Jizō, guardian deity of children and travellers. The

temple’s Treasure House (¥400; 8am–5pm) hosts an impressive collection

of Buddhist sculpture from the Heian and Kamakura periods; the same ticket

gets you in to see the temple’s lovely Kamakura-period garden opposite.

The My-Yū bus (MY遊バス; www.visitkochijapan.com/about/Kochi_MYyou_EN.pdf; 1-/2-day pass ¥1000/1600) runs from Kōchi bus station to Godaisan. Purchase the pass

at the tourist information office in front of Kōchi Station; show your foreign

passport and you’ll get the pass for half price.

Ino Japanese Paper Museum

MUSEUM

(いの町紙の博物館; %088-893-0886; www.kamihaku.com/en; 110-1 Saiwai-chō, Ino-chō;

¥500; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Discover the history and development of washi (Japanese paper) at Ino,

about 10km west of downtown Kōchi. There are demonstrations of

nagashizuki papermaking techniques and on the first Sunday of every

month, there’s a papermaking class (¥400; in Japanese only). Check out the

excellent English website for details. The museum is a 10-minute walk from

both the Ino JR and tram stations.

z Festivals & Events

Yosakoi Matsuri

CULTURAL

(よさこい祭り; Yosakoi Festival; h10 & 11 Aug)

Kōchi’s lively Yosakoi Matsuri on 10 and 11 August perfectly complements

Tokushima’s Awa-odori Matsuri (12 to 15 August). There’s a night-before

event on 9 August and a night-after effort on 12 August, but 10 and 11

August are the big days.

4 Sleeping

There are plenty of midrange hotel-type places around JR Kōchi station,

Harimaya-bashi and towards the castle. You’ll have to head a tad further

afield for budget places though.

o Kochi Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(高知ユースホステル; %088-823-0858; www.kyh-sakenokuni.com; 4-5 Fukuihigashi-machi;

dm/s ¥2500/3000; pnaW)

Sitting along a canal near Engyōjiguchi (円行寺口) Station, this immaculate

wood-panelled hostel has simple, comfortable rooms and a welcoming,

homely vibe. Spring for the excellent-value ¥400 breakfast. The friendly,

English-speaking host Kondo Tomio is a former sake company rep and

offers sake-sampling courses for ¥500. Find detailed directions in English on

the website.

EN Hostel & Local Community

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %088-855-9888; www.enhostel.com; 1-12-2 Sakurai-chō; dm/tw from

¥3500/7400; aW)

Opened in 2018, EN provides stylish mixed and female-only dorms, plus a

number of private rooms, in a totally refurbished building. It has been

elegantly decorated in a lovely timber finish, and has a welcoming

community lounge and bar, as well as a coin laundry. It’s a 10-minute walk

from JR Kōchi Station.

Katsuo Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(かつおゲストハウス; %070-5352-1167; http://katuo-gh.com; 4-7-28 Hijima-chō; dm/s/d

¥2800/3800/7600; pnaW)

Good things come in small packages as Katsuo Guest House proves. In a

residential neighbourhood a 15-minute walk north of Kōchi Station, this

intimate, purpose-built spot is a haven for those yearning for impromptu

jams on the house guitar, a DIY meal in the communal kitchen and a friendly

Kōchi welcome.

o Richmond Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; リッチモンドホテル高知; %088-820-1122;

http://kochi.richmondhotel.jp; 9-4 Obiyamachi; s/d from ¥6500/8500; pnaW)

Kōchi’s top business hotel has the spotless, modern rooms and professional

service expected for accommodation of this class, plus it’s located just off

the main shopping arcade in the heart of the city. Parking (¥700 per day) is a

short distance off-site, but the hotel’s convenient location puts you in

walking distance of restaurants, bars and city attractions.

Sansuien

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 三翠園; %088-822-0131; www.sansuien.co.jp; 1-3-35 Takajō-machi; r per person incl breakfast from ¥7500; pnaW)

Three blocks south of the castle along Kenchō-mae Dōri is this classy

multistorey hotel with luxurious onsen baths and a garden incorporating a

series of buildings that once formed part of the residence of the daimyō. The

Japanese tatami rooms far outweigh their Western counterparts for both size

and comfort. Nonguests can use the baths from 10am to 4pm (¥900).

DON’T MISS

BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

A Hiking Ishizuchi-san

A Surfing the Tokushima coastline

A Hiking Tsurugi-san

A Rafting Yoshino-gawa

A Canyoning in Nametoko Valley

A Swimming at Ōkinohama

5 Eating & Drinking

Kōchi’s main eating and entertainment district is in the area around the

Obiyamachi Arcade and the Harimaya-bashi junction where the tramlines

meet, about 1km south of JR Kōchi station. Local specialities include

katsuo-tataki.

o Tosa Binchōtanyaki Onomi

GRILL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 土佐備長炭焼き おの実; %088-875-9710;

www.hitosara.com/0006069213; 1-15-17 Obiyamachi; dishes from ¥400; h5pm-midnight) You’ll need to be a tad adventurous to eat here as there’s no English menu,

but it’s a top spot for regional meat cuisine, especially wild venison shot by

the owner. Other charcoalgrilled meats include Kōchi beef, pork, chicken

and – in season – inoshishi (wild boar). Quench your thirst with Kōchi sake,

shōchu or tasty cold beer.

o Hirome Ichiba

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ひろめ市場; %088-822-5287; www.hirome.co.jp; 2-3-1 Obiyamachi; dishes from ¥300; h8am-11pm, from 7am Sun)

Dozens of minirestaurants and bars specialising in everything from gomoku

rāmen (seafood noodles) to takoyaki surround communal tables; this is the

hub of Kōchi’s cheap-eats scene. On weekends, it positively heaves with

young people drinking hard and happy. It’s a full block of mayhem at the

end of the main arcade, just before the castle.

Kinako Cafe

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; きなこCafe; %088-875-2255; www.hitosara.com/0006109127; 1-1-7

Obiyamachi; meals from ¥800; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun)

This tiny, lovingly run place serves tasty set meals at lunchtime, then morphs

into a jazz and wine bar serving top-quality otsumami (snacks) in the

evenings. A great little place to relax after time on your feet in the

Obiyamachi shopping arcade.

o Tosa-shu Baru

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 土佐酒バル; %088-823-2216; 1-9-5 Ōte-suji; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Without doubt, this nonsmoking bar with an extremely convivial atmosphere

is the place to go to try Kōchi-made sake. Owner Kōji is passionate about

sake and has offerings from all 18 breweries in Kōchi, three daily-changing

nomi-kurabe (tasting sets) and serves superb small dishes featuring local

produce. He is a fountain of sake knowledge and plays great jazz.

Amontillado

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アモンティラード; %088-875-0599; www.irishpub-

amontillado.owst.jp; 1-5-2 Obiyamachi; h5pm-1am)

When you’re izakaya’d out and crave fish and chips with a pint of Guinness

(¥880), pop into this Irish pub in its new location right on Obiyamachi

Arcade. There’s always plenty going on as it’s popular with locals.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高知観光案内所; %088-826-3337; www.visitkochijapan.com; h8.30am-5pm, accommodation info to 7.30pm) The helpful tourist information pavilion at the front of JR Kōchi Station provides

English-language maps, Kōchi mini-guidebooks, accommodation help and

more. There’s always an enthusiastic English speaker on hand. Free bicycles

are also available here from 8.30am-5pm (bring ID).

Kōchi International Association (高知県国際交流協会; %088-875-0022;

www.kochi-kia.or.jp; 2nd fl, 4-1-37 Honmachi; h8.30am-5.15pm Mon-Sat) Free internet access, a library and English newspapers.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Kōchi Ryōma Airport (高知龍馬空港; www.kochiap.co.jp; 58 Hisaedaotsu, Nankoku-

shi), about 10km east of the city, is accessible by bus (¥720, 35 minutes) from

the station. There are daily flights to/from Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka and

Fukuoka.

BUS

The JR Kōchi Station Bus Terminal (高知駅バスターミナル) is on the

north side of Kōchi Station.

TRAIN

Kōchi is on the JR Dosan line, and is connected to Takamatsu ( tokkyū

¥4900, 2¼ hours) via Awa-Ikeda ( tokkyū ¥3140, 70 minutes). Trains also run

west to Kubokawa ( tokkyū ¥2960, 70 minutes), where you can change for

Shimanto City (formerly known as Nakamura; tokkyū ¥4670, 1¾ hours from

Kōchi).

8 Getting Around

Kōchi’s colourful tram service (¥200 per trip) has been running since 1904.

There are two lines: the north–south line from the station intersects with the

east–west tram route at the Harimaya-bashi (はりまや橋) junction. Pay

when you get off and ask for a norikae-ken (transfer ticket) if you have to

change lines.

Free rental bicycles can be picked up from the Tourist Information Office

at the front of JR Kōchi Station. They’re available 8.30am to 5pm (bring

ID).

Shimanto City 四万十市

%0880 / POP 37,000

Shimanto City (四万十市), formerly called Nakamura, is easily confused

with Shimanto town, further up the coast – don’t worry, even locals get

confused! Both Shimanto City and the town further north chose their name

because the Shimanto-gawa (四万十川) is known throughout Japan for its

beauty and as being the country’s last remaining undammed river. Shimanto

City claimed the name because this is where the river heads out to the sea.

Shimanto town claimed the name because the river’s headwaters are within

its boundaries.

Shimanto City is a good place to organise trips on and around the

beautiful Shimanto-gawa and the surrounding valley. The further up the river

you go, the more remote and beautiful it all becomes.

2 Activities

Head to Shimanto City Tourist Information Office for info on the region’s

blossoming number of outdoor activities including kayaking, canoe trips and

camping.

Several companies offer river cruises on boats called yakata-bune (¥2000

per 50 minutes) and kayak rental (half-/full-day from ¥3500/5000).

Bike rental is available here too (five hours/full-day ¥1000/1500), along

with maps for five suggested cycling routes.

SHIMANTO-GAWA SCENIC DRIVE

Little traffic and stunning scenery make Shikoku one of the best driving destinations in Japan.

There’s also a lack of regular public transport services in some areas, namely around the two

southern capes and the Iya Valley, so your international licence can at last come in handy. Our

favourite drive is along the banks of the Shimanto-gawa. Here you vie with the odd truck for

single-lane access to some of the narrowest, bendiest, prettiest roads in the country, boxed in by

rocky cliffs on one side and the shimmering Shimantogawa on the other.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Kawarakko

CAMPGROUND

¥

(かわらっこ; %0880-31-8400; www.kawarakko.com; campsites from ¥3300)

About 12km inland and upriver on Route 441, this is a neatly maintained

riverside campground run by an adventure company. Canoes, mountain

bikes and even tents are available to hire should you fancy a night under the

stars. There are no shops around here, so take all the supplies you are likely

to need.

o Shimanto-no-yado Iyashi-no-sato

SPA HOTEL

¥¥

(四万十の宿 いやしの里; %0880-33-1600; www.shimantonoyado.co.jp; 3370 Shimoda; r

per person from ¥8000; pnaW)

Describing itself as a ‘resort-type ecology hotel’, this lovely spot out on a

hill near Shimoda Port at the mouth of Shimanto-gawa features beautiful,

individually designed rooms, superb meals and an onsen that is also open to

nonguests (¥680). Iyashi-no-sato is well worth the price; it’s best if you have

your own wheels to get here.

Hotel Sunriver Shimanto

HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテルサンリバー四万十; %0880-34-8875; www.hss-40010.com; 383-15 Uyama; s/d

from ¥6000/6500; pnaW)

This brand spanking new hotel (as of 2018) is an excellent place to stay in

Nakamura and to use as a base to explore the Shimanto area. Rooms may be

a tad small, but the facilities are excellent with free parking out front and a

¥500 buffet breakfast. It’s a short walk from JR Nakamura Station on Rte 56.

Ichimonya

JAPANESE

¥

(いちもん家; %0880-34-5552; www.sunrivershimanto.com; 383-15 Uyama; meals from ¥750; h11am-9pm)

Part of the new Hotel Sunriver Shimanto complex, this place has good-

quality Japanese regional cuisine with sizeable portions at very reasonable

prices. Take your pick of booth, table or tatami-mat seating. Seafood options

on the picture menu include katsuo-tataki, while the chicken and pork meals

more than hit the spot.

o Sanzenkai

JAPANESE

¥¥

(山川海; %0880-31-5811; www.shimantonoyado.co.jp; 3370 Shimoda; mains from ¥1500; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm)

The three kanji characters that make up this classy restaurant’s name say it

all – mountain, river, sea. Out at the spectacular Iyashi-no-sato eco-hotel,

Sanzenkai uses locally sourced seasonal ingredients to tempt the palates of

both hotel guests and visitors. If you’re not staying here, get the tourist

office to call ahead and make a booking. There’s also an onsen.

8 Information

The Shimanto City Tourist Information Office (四万十市観光協会; %0880-

35-4171; www.shimanto-kankou.com; h8.30am-5.30pm) is on the left as you exit JR

Nakamura station and has an English-speaker on hand, an excellent English-

language guide to the area, and can help book local accommodation and

trips.

8 Getting There & Away

Shimanto City’s station is called Nakamura, and it is 1¾ hours from Kōchi

by the fastest train (¥5070). This is it in terms of heading south by train. To

get to Ashizuri-misaki, you’ll need to use a bus or your own wheels. From

Nakamura, the Tosa-Kuroshio Sukumo Line does continue west, however, as

far as Sukumo (¥620; 30 minutes).

It is possible to get to Uwajima in Ehime Prefecture by train and then

continue on around Shikoku. This will involve backtracking north from

Nakamura to either Wakai station (若井駅) or Kubokawa station (窪川駅),

then taking the JR Yodo line (予土線) west through the mountains to

Uwajima.

Ashizuri-misaki 足摺岬

%0880

Ashizuri-misaki (足摺岬) is a rugged, picturesque promontory that’s famous

for Kongōfuku-ji ( MAP ; 金剛福寺; %0880-88-0038;

www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/38kongofukuji; 214-1 Ashizuri-misaki) F, Temple 38 of the 88, its lighthouse and violent weather. Walking pilgrims breathe a sigh of relief

on arrival, as they have just survived the longest distance between temples –

94km from Iwamoto-ji in Kubokawa.

Ashizuri means ‘foot stamping’ and the cape got its name from the story

of an old monk who stamped his foot in anguish when his young disciple set

off looking for the promised land of Fudaraku in a boat. Fudaraku was

believed to be the blessed realm of Kannon, goddess of mercy, and many set

forth from the cape in their search for paradise in this lifetime, never to be

heard from again. Centuries later, Ashizuri is famous for suicides, with

stories such as that of a young geisha who danced off the edge onto the

beckoning rocks below.

There are enjoyable short walks around the cape, including to an

observation platform and the lighthouse.

WORTH A TRIP

ŌKINOHAMA

About 25km south of Shimanto City on the road to Ashizuri-misaki, you’ll find Ōkinohama (大

岐の浜), Shikoku’s most magnificent sandy beach. The only souls to frequent this unspoilt 2km

stretch are the pick of the region’s surfers, some egg-laying turtles and the odd, grinning clam

diver. Facing east means you can watch the sun and moon rise from your beach towel, and

warm currents ensure swimming is possible year-round.

For an intriguing contemporary retreat, try the Kaiyu Inn (海癒; %0880-82-8500;

www.kaiyu-inn.jp; 2777-12 Ohki; s ¥7000-23,000, extra person ¥2500; pnaW#) S. Fluent-

English-speaking owner Mitsu has redesigned a concrete 1960s edifice, originally built by his

father. Each self-contained apartment has been designed either by Mitsu or a range of emerging

Japanese architects. Coupled with Mitsu’s keen aesthetic eye and extensive designer-furniture

collection, the result is a collection of spaces worthy of design magazines, each with Pacific

Ocean views. The on-site, boiler-fired onsen is a simple daily luxury and communal meals are

inventive, super-fresh and organic, featuring famed local clams, catch-of-the-day fish, and loads

of fruit and vegetables. Meals must be ordered in advance for an additional fee. Many rooms

have kitchens and long-stay guests are welcome.

Ōkinohama is on Rte 321, about 25km south of Shimanto City (Nakamura) and 15km north

of Ashizuri-misaki. To get to Kaiyu Inn, take the bus from Nakamura Station to Ashizuri-

misaki and get off at Kaiyu-no-yu-mae (¥1100, 40 minutes).

4 Sleeping

Ashizuri Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(足摺ユースホステル; %0880-88-0324; www.jyh.or.jp; 1351-3 Ashizuri-misaki; dm from

¥3780; W)

This hostel is run by a friendly older couple who have been providing large,

well-cared-for tatami rooms to visitors for years. With advance notice meals

are available – breakfast is ¥650, dinner is ¥1080. It’s west of the temple.

Ashizuri Kokusai Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

(足摺国際ホテル; %0880-88-0201; www.ashizuri.co.jp; 662 Ashizuri-misaki; r per person incl

meals from ¥11,500; paW)

With spacious Japanese-style rooms and onsen baths overlooking the sea,

this hotel is one of many that are located along the main road in town and

mainly cater to groups.

8 Getting There & Away

This is a place to have your own wheels. Alternatively, there are buses to

Ashizuri-misaki from Nakamura Station (¥1900, 1½ hours, eight daily).

EHIME PREFECTURE 愛媛県

Occupying the west of Shikoku and formerly known as Iyo, Ehime

Prefecture (愛媛県) is home to Shikoku’s largest city, Matsuyama, and has

the greatest number of the 88 pilgrimage temples – 27, to be precise. Like

Tosa (Kōchi Prefecture), the southern part of the prefecture has always been

considered wild and remote; by the time pilgrims arrive in Matsuyama, they

know that the hard work has been done and they are well on their way to

completing their goal. To pilgrims, Ehime is known as Bodai-no-dōjō, the

‘place for attainment of wisdom’.

Highlights include the immaculately preserved feudal castle and historic

Dōgo Onsen in Matsuyama, and the sacred peak of Ishizuchi-san (1982m),

the highest mountain in western Japan.

For prefectural information, check www.visitehimejapan.com.

Matsuyama 松山

%089 / POP 515,000

Located in a lush river basin, Shikoku’s largest city is handsome and refined,

with a hint of mainland hustle. Matsuyama (松山) is famed across Japan for

Dōgo Onsen Honkan, a luxurious 19th-century public bathhouse built over

ancient hot springs. The finest castle on the island towers above the stylish

trams criss-crossing the city streets and the harbour glistening in the

distance. Matsuyama is also home to eight of the 88 Temples, including

Ishite-ji, one of the most famous stops on the pilgrimage.

The castle sits on a hill in the middle of the city with JR Matsuyama

Station to its west, the city centre to its south and Dōgo Onsen to its east.

Trams connect all the areas, including circumnavigating the castle’s hill. The

ferry port and airport are both west of the city.

Matsuyama

1 Top Sights

1 Matsuyama-jō

C2

1 Sights

2 Botchan Karakuri Clock

F4

3 Dōgo-kōen

G2

4 Isaniwa-jinja

G4

5 Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en

C3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 Asuka-no-yu Dōgo Onsen Annex

F3

7 Dōgo Onsen Honkan

G3

8 Tsubaki-no-yu

F3

4 Sleeping

9 APA Hotel Matsuyamajō-nishi

B2

10 Check Inn Matsuyama

D4

11 Cinnamon Guest House Dōgo

G4

12 Dōgo Kan

F3

13 Dōgo Yaya

F3

14 Fujiya

F4

15 Funaya

G4

16 Hotel Mielparque Matsuyama

G4

5 Eating

17 Agetai

D3

18 Café Bleu

D4

19 Dōgo-no-machiya

F3

20 Goshiki Sōmen

D4

21 Kappō Yano

B2

22 SOHSOH

D3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

23 Dōgo Bakushukan

G3

24 Wani to Sai

G4

8 Information

25 Dōgo Onsen Tourist Information Office

F4

26 Ehime Prefectural International Centre

E2

27 Tourist Information Office

A3

8 Transport

28 Bus Stop

A3

29 JR Matsuyama Rental Bicycles

A4

1 Sights

o Matsuyama-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 松山城; %089-921-4873; www.matsuyamajo.jp; ¥510; h9am-5pm, to 5.30pm Aug, to 4.30pm Dec & Jan)

Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates

the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō is one of Japan’s finest

surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to peruse

inside: the castle has a treasure trove of artefacts with excellent

Englishlanguage displays. A ropeway (one way/return ¥270/510) is on hand

to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to

walk.

It’s worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off

at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 二之丸史跡庭園; ¥100) in the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features.

o Temple 51: Ishite-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 石手寺; %089-977-0870; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/ehime/51ishiteji; 2-9-21 Ishite) F

East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji, the 51st of the 88 Temples and one of the

most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means ‘stone hand’ and comes from a

legend associated with Kōbō Daishi in which a baby was born with a stone

in its hand. Don’t miss exploring the tunnels and caves at the rear of the

complex. A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from high on the

hillside.

Botchan Karakuri Clock

LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 坊ちゃんからくり時計) At the start of the arcade at Dōgo Onsen you can check out Botchan

Karakuri Clock, which was erected as part of Dōgo Onsen Honkan’s

centennial in 1994. It features figures based on the main characters from

Botchan, who emerge to take a turn on the hour from 8am to 10pm. The

spectacle is viewed hourly by crowds of excited Japanese visitors.

WORTH A TRIP

TEMPLE 45: IWAYA-JI

Pilgrims will be hoofing it through Shikoku’s mountainous interior to get here, but if you’re not

a henro you’ll need your own wheels to get to the isolated, but extremely atmospheric Temple

45, Iwaya-ji ( MAP ; 岩屋時; %0892-57-0417; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/ehime/45iwayaji;

1468 Nanatori, Kuma-kōgen) F. Its cliffside buildings tower precariously above the valley and

visitors might almost feel the presence of the holy men of long ago. A trail lined with age-old

statues winds up to the temple, then up and over the mountain above. Beside the main hall,

climb the wooden ladder up to the platform in the indentation in the cliff where pilgrims ascend

to pray.

2 Activities

According to legend, Dōgo Onsen (道後温泉) was discovered during the

age of the gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring.

The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly

effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria. It is best known for

being included in the famous 1906 novel Botchan by Natsume Sōseki, the

greatest literary figure of Japan’s modern age, who based his novel on his

time as a schoolteacher in Matsuyama in the early 20th century.

While the venerable old Dōgo Onsen Honkan building is THE place to go,

it is undergoing a seven-year extensive refurbishment until 2026 which may

mean that it doesn’t meet your expectations when you visit. What is actually

operating will depend on when you turn up.

If you don’t want a full bath, there are also nine free ashi-yu (足湯; foot

baths) scattered around Dōgo Onsen, where you can take off your shoes and

socks and warm your feet.

o Dōgo Onsen Honkan

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道後温泉本館; www.dogo.jp/en; 5-6 Dōgoyunomachi; h6am-10pm, kami-no-yu to 11pm)

The main building at Dōgo Onsen, Dōgo Onsen Honkan, was constructed in

1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey,

castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned

with a statue of a white heron in commemoration of its legendary origins.

The larger and more popular of the two baths here is kami-no-yu.

Dōgo Onsen Honkan can be a bit confusing as there are two separate

baths (and four pricing options) from which to choose. There are English-

language pamphlets to clarify the various options and correct sequence of

steps. Regardless of which option you choose, you are allowed to explore the

building after taking your bath.

Asuka-no-yu Dōgo Onsen Annex

ONSEN

( MAP ; 道後温泉別館 飛鳥乃湯泉; www.dogo.jp/en; 19-22 Dōgo-yunomachi; adult/child from ¥600/300; h7am-10pm)

Dōgo Onsen is expanding and its new Asuka-no-yu annex, while having

some gorgeous new regulartype baths, will really appeal to those who want

to enjoy a private bathing experience, whether it be with family or friends.

Reservations for 90-minute slots can be made online, costing ¥2000 plus

¥1650 per adult and ¥820 per child. Check out the new complex online.

Tsubaki-no-yu

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 椿の湯; www.dogo.jp/en; 19-22 Dōgo-yunomachi; ¥400; h6.30am-11pm) If you want to escape the crowds at Dōgo Onsen Honkan, one minute away

on foot (through the shopping arcade) is Tsubaki-no-yu, Dōgo Onsen’s hot-

spring annex, frequented primarily by locals.

CYCLING THE SHIMANAMI KAIDŌ

A fantastic way to travel between Shikoku and Hiroshima Prefecture is via the Shimanami

Kaidō, a bicycle route that crosses a series of bridges across six Inland Sea islands.

Sunrise Itoyama in Imabari, right at the base of the first bridge, is the most convenient

starting point on the Shikoku side. Everything is very well set up here. Rental bicycles (normal,

tandem and electric-assist), which you can drop off on the Honshū side, are available; you can

stay here (singles/twins ¥4320/6500); and there is a restaurant and an information office. Check

it all out online. JR Imabari Station is a 15-minute, ¥2000 taxi ride away.

4 Sleeping

You’ll want to decide whether to stay at Dōgo Onsen in the east or in

Matsuyama city when in the prefecture’s capital. There are plenty of options

in both parts of the city.

o Cinnamon Guest House Dōgo

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; シナモンゲストハウス道後; %089-916-9252; www.cinnamon-guesthouse-

dogo.com; 4-50 Dōgo-yunomachi; dm/r ¥3000/10,000; naW)

Run by English-speaking Shimpei, this place is a joy for backpackers happy

to stay in a cheap capsule-style mixed or women-only dorm. There is also a

four-person room up on the 3rd floor. Expect a welcome reception and an

extremely convivial atmosphere. It’s only a few minutes’ walk up from

Dōgo Onsen.

Fujiya

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; ふじや; %080-1750-5454; www.yado-fujiya.com; 7-23 Dōgo-yunomachi; dm/r from

¥3000/6000; aW)

Fujiya offers simple stuff with men’s and women’s dormitories plus a couple

of rooms, but it is incredibly convenient – only a couple of minutes’ walk

from Dōgo Onsen tram station and the various Dōgo baths. There’s a

community room plus a kitchen and shower facilities, all attractively put

together.

o Dōgo Yaya

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道後やや; %089-907-1181; www.yayahotel.jp; 6-1 Dōgo-takōchō; s/d from ¥8000/11,000; paW)

Easy on the eyes and the budget, Dōgo Yaya is aesthetically pleasing as well

as a smashing deal. The 68 rooms of various layouts are models of clean,

contemporary style infused with traditional Japanese elements: raised tatami

platforms for the cushy Western beds, sliding shōji-type doors and wood-slat

embellishments. No onsen, but guests receive discounted entry to nearby

Dōgo Onsen.

Hotel Mielparque Matsuyama

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; ホテル メルパルク松山; %089-945-6411; www.mielparque.jp/matsuyama; 123-2

Dogohimezuka; s/d from ¥7000/11,000; paW)

A convenient place with a mix of large Western- and Japanese-style rooms a

five-minute walk up from Dōgo Onsen. This is a good option if you’re

driving as there is free parking, plus there’s a nice onsen and you’re only a

short stroll from the heart of the Dōgo action.

Check Inn Matsuyama

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; チェックイン松山; %089-998-7000; www.checkin.co.jp/matsuyama;

2-7-3 Sanban-chō; s/tw from ¥5500/8000; pnaW)

This business hotel is excellent value for money. Well-equipped modern

rooms have free wi-fi, there’s a konbini (convenience store) in the lobby and

an onsen on the roof (the women’s onsen is on the 2nd floor). A short walk

from the Ōkaidō arcade (大街道), the hotel is super convenient for the city’s

nightlife and restaurants.

Funaya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ふなや; %089-947-0278, toll-free 0120-190-278; www.dogo-funaya.co.jp;

1-33 Dōgo-yunomachi; r per person incl meals from ¥22,000; pnaWs)

Natsume Sōseki took refuge from his writer’s block and aching limbs here,

and so should you if you can afford it. The beauty lies inside, from the

central garden and private onsen to the exquisite surrounding tatami rooms

fit for Japanese royalty. It’s a short walk from the Dōgo Onsen tram station

along the road that leads up to Isaniwa-jinja.

Dōgo Kan

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道後舘; %089-941-7777; www.dogokan.co.jp; 7-26 Dōgo-takōchō; r per person incl meals Mon-Fri from ¥24,000, Sat & Sun from ¥28,000; pnaW)

The Kurokawa Kishō–designed Dōgo Kan lies on a slope behind the

Tsubaki-no-yu public baths. Indoor ponds and supremely gracious staff

complement the grand tatami rooms and elaborate series of communal baths.

The Western rooms are appreciably cheaper but lack any real ‘Dōgo-ness’,

which is one of the attractions of this atmospheric spot. You may find better

rates online.

5 Eating

o Café Bleu

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; カフェブルー; %089-907-0402; 4th fl, 2-2-8 Ōkaidō; meals ¥600-900; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat)

This lovely little music cafe serves tasty, simple sustenance with a picture

menu and daily specials. The decor includes photos of Andy Warhol and

Mick Jagger spying on you in the bathroom, vintage typewriters and shelves

of art books. Beer (including Guinness on draught) and generous cocktails

are also available. Spot the signboard out front; it’s on the 4th floor.

Agetai

FISH & CHIPS

$

( MAP ; 揚げ鯛; %089-904-4515; www.agetai.net; 3-4-1 Ōkaidō; meals from ¥500; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue)

This is a new concept taking into consideration that Ehime Prefecture is well

known for its tai (snapper). Agetai offers up tasty dishes such as deep-fried

snapper fish and chips (from ¥500), and deep-fried snapper burgers (from

¥650), plus local drinks like Dōgo Beer in a casual spot on the road leading

up to the castle ropeway. Relaxed and fun.

Dōgo-no-machiya

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道後の町屋; %089-986-8886; www.dogonomachiya.com; 14-26 Dōgo-

yunomachi; meals ¥650-1000; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, closed every 3rd Wed)

With a traditional shopfront along the Dōgo arcade, this former teahouse

now serves as a bakery-cafe offering burgers, sandwiches and soul-satisfying

coffee and tea drinks. Its shotgun-style layout leads through beautifully

preserved dark-wood rooms to a Japanese garden and a tatami room out

back.

o Kappō Yano

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 割烹矢野; %089-931-6346; 2-5-8 Masaki-machi; meals from ¥1500; h11am-2.30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat)

Yano-san and his family have been serving traditional meals at their popular

seafood place a block back from APA Hotel (アパホテル松山城西; %089-

943-1011; www.apahotel.com; 2-5-5 Honmachi; s/d from ¥6000/8000; pnaW) for more than 30

years. Choose from his chef’s omakase courses from ¥3000, or go for a

teishoku set meal such as sashimi teishoku or yakizakana teishoku (grilled

fish set meal) for ¥1500. Top seafood at reasonable prices.

SOHSOH

VEGETARIAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お野菜食堂ＳＯＨＳＯＨ; %089-998-7373; www.greenlabel-

group.com; 3-2-10 Ōkaido; set meal from ¥1050; h11am-10pm; v)

This is the first store of what has become a Japan-wide chain for Ehime-

based SOHSOH. While meals are not completely vegetarian, they are

vegetable and salad heavy with small fish and meat portions (which can be

removed when you order). It’s extremely popular, so there are often lines to

get in. Another SOHSOH restaurant is underground by Takashimaya at Shi-

eki station.

Goshiki Sōmen

NOODLES

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 五志喜; %089-933-3838; https://s422500.gorp.jp; 3-5-4 Sanban-chō; meals

¥780-2000; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm)

Next to the central post office is this elegant Matsuyama institution, which

specialises in goshiki sōmen (thin noodles in five different colours). You’ll

recognise it by the piles of colourful noodles in the window waiting to be

taken home as souvenirs. Set meals are around ¥1500; there is a picture

menu with English descriptions of the most popular dishes.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

o Dōgo Bakushukan

MICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 道後麦酒館; %089-945-6866; www.dogobeer.co.jp/bakusyukan.html; 20-

13 Dōgo-yunomachi; h11am-10pm)

Right by Dōgo Onsen Honkan, it’s hard to walk past this brewery restaurant,

a good spot for a locally made beer and a bite to eat after a relaxing soak.

The names of the brews are allusions to novelist Natsume Sōseki and his

famous novel, Botchan. There’s also a decent range of food available from a

picture menu.

Wani to Sai

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ワニとサイ; %080-3319-2765; www.facebook.com/wanitosai; 1-39

Dōgo-yunomachi; drinks from ¥600; h6pm-late)

Easily the funkiest little spot in Matsuyama, Wani to Sai is definitely easy to

spot with a colourful facade featuring an alligator and a rhinoceros (wani to

sai). Wanting to hang with an arty crowd? You’ve come to the right place.

8 Information

Ehime Prefectural International Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 愛媛県国際交

流協会; EPIC; %089-917-5678; www.epic.or.jp; 1-1 Dōgo Ichiman; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Provides advice, internet access and bike rental. EPIC is near the Minami-

machi (南町; aka Kenmin Bunkakaikan-mae) tram stop. Get off the tram,

look towards the castle and you’ll see a sign about 200m away above the

road pointing to EPIC.

Tourist Information Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %089-931-3914; h8.30am-8.30pm) The main office is located inside JR Matsuyama Station, while a branch

office (%089-943-8342; h8am-8pm) is opposite the tram terminus for Dōgo Onsen.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Matsuyama airport (松山空港; www.matsuyama-airport.co.jp), 6km west of the city, is easily reached by bus (¥460, 15 minutes, every 30 minutes) from the

front of the JR Matsuyama Station.

BOAT

The superjet hydrofoil, run by the Setonaikai Kisen (瀬戸内海汽船;

%Matsuyama booking office 089-953-1003; www.setonaikaikisen.co.jp; h7am-9pm) ferry, has regular hydrofoil connections between Matsuyama and Hiroshima (¥7100,

1¼ hours, 12 daily). Their Hiroshima–Matsuyama ferry (¥3600, 2½ hours,

10 daily) is also a popular way of getting to/from Shikoku.

The Matsuyama Kokura Ferry (松山・小倉フェリー; %089-967-7180;

www.matsuyamakokuraferry.co.jp; 5-2292-1 Takahama-chō) runs between Matsuyama and Kita-Kyūshū (seven hours, daily).

BUS

There are daily JR Highway buses from the bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) at the train station that run to/from Osaka (5½ hours) and Tokyo (12 hours).

Fares vary considerably depending on the date. There are frequent buses to

major cities in Shikoku.

TRAIN

The JR Yosan line connects Matsuyama with Takamatsu ( tokkyū ¥6390, 2½

hours) and there are also services across the Seto-ōhashi to Okayama ( tokkyū

¥7030, 2¾ hours) on Honshū.

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Available at the JR Matsuyama Rental Cycle Port (per day ¥300; h8.30am-5pm),

to the right, out on the main road, as you exit JR Matsuyama Station. You

can also pick up and drop off at the Ōkaidō Rental Cycle Port in the Ōkaidō

Arcade, the Matsuyama-jō (Castle) Rental Cycle Port at the foot of the

ropeway, and the Dōgo Onsen Station Rental Cycle Port.

TRAM

Tickets cost a flat ¥160 for each trip (pay when you get off). A day pass

costs ¥600. Lines 1 and 2 are loop lines, running clockwise and

anticlockwise around Katsuyama (the castle mountain). Line 3 runs from

Matsuyama-shi station to Dōgo Onsen; line 5 goes from JR Matsuyama

station to Dōgo Onsen; and line 6 from Kiya-chō (木屋町) to Dōgo Onsen.

You can also ride the vintage Botchan Ressha (坊ちゃん列車), small

trains that were imported from Germany in 1887. Named for Natsume

Sōseki’s famous novel, they ran up and down Matsuyama’s streets for 67

years, and they’re now back in use. Combo tickets for the Botchan Ressha

plus a one-day tram pass cost ¥800.

Ishizuchi-san 石鎚山

At 1982m, Ishizuchi-san (石鎚山) is known as ‘the roof of Shikoku’ and is

the highest peak in western Japan. With its name meaning ‘stone hammer

mountain’, Ishizuchi is one of the Hyakumeizan, Japan’s 100 Famous

Mountains. Long a centre for mountain worship, Ishizuchi attracts pilgrims

and climbers alike, particularly during the July and August climbing season.

The first 10 days of July are marked with a ‘mountain opening festival’

attended by white-dressed pilgrims from all over Japan. Views from the peak

are spectacular.

With a rental car, Ishizuchi-san can be climbed easily on a day trip from

Matsuyama when approached from Tsuchi-goya. A day trip from

Matsuyama without your own wheels will require a fair bit of planning and

use of train, bus and cable car via Iyo-Saijo.

Skiing and snowboarding is possible using the Ishizuchi Tōzan Ropeway

between January and April.

2 Activities

o Ishizuchi-san

HIKING

(石鎚山)

There are two good starting points for climbing Ishizuchi-san. For the easier

hike, head to Tsuchi-goya at 1500m, to the east of the mountain and allow

four hours for the return hike. For a more strenuous day, start at the Ishizuchi

cable-car station at Nishi-no-kawa, to the north of Ishizuchisan. The cable

car (石鎚登山ロープウェイ; %0897-59-0331; www.ishizuchi.com; one way/return

¥1030/1950; h8am-6pm Jul & Aug, hours vary Sep-Jun) carries hikers from 455m up to

1300m, followed by a six-hour round-trip hike to the summit.

The two tracks meet before a final climb to the peak of Misen (1974m),

where you’ll find Ishizuchi-jinja and a mountain hut where you can eat and

stay the night.

The last sections before the peak can be climbed using kusari, steel chains

that are embedded in the rock and head straight up. These are provided to

help you test your mettle. If pulling yourself up chains doesn’t appeal, there

are alternate routes that bypass the chains. From the peak of Misen, there is a

final test along a sharp ridge to Tengu-dake (1982m, the highest point).

4 Sleeping & Eating

If you are out hiking, there are places to eat at the top of the cable car, at the

mountain hut at the peak and at Tsuchi-goya. Take hiking snacks with you.

Ishizuchi-san Summit Hut

HUT

¥¥

(Chōjō-sansō; 石鎚山 頂上山荘; %0897-55-4168, bookings 080-1998-4591;

www.ishizuchisan.jp/sansou/sub02-0.htm; per person incl 2 meals ¥8700)

Open from the start of May to the start of November, this is an isolated

mountain hut perched on the exposed peak of Ishizuchi-san. It sleeps 50.

There’s nothing luxurious here, but hot meals, a spot with bedding on a

tatami mat in a warm shared room, and a solid roof and walls await. A real

Japanese mountain experience.

8 Getting There & Away

Having your own wheels is the best way to get to Tsuchi-goya. There are

buses from Matsuyama, requiring a change of buses at Kuma, but these only

operate on weekends and public holidays.

To get to the Ishizuchi cable-car station, Setouchi Bus (せとうちバス;

%0898-23-3450; www.setouchibus.co.jp; one way ¥1000) runs buses between JR Iyo-Saijo station (earliest departure is at 7.47am) and the Shimodani cable-car station

(one hour). The latest departure back is at 5.23pm. There are plenty of places

to park (¥400) at the bottom cable-car station if you come by car.

Uchiko 内子

%0893 / POP 20,500

Uchiko (内子) is undergoing a minirenaissance, with a growing number of

domestic travellers taking interest in this attractive town with a prosperous

past. During the late Edo and early Meiji periods, Uchiko boomed as a major

producer of vegetable wax – the Hon-Haga family established the production

of fine wax in Uchiko, winning awards at World Expositions in Chicago

(1893) and Paris (1900).

1 Sights

o Yōkaichi Historic District

HISTORIC SITE

(八日市)

Uchiko’s picturesque and protected main street has a number of interesting

buildings, many of which now serve as museums, souvenir stalls, craft

shops, accommodation and charming teahouses. The old buildings typically

have cream-coloured plaster walls and ‘wings’ under the eaves that serve to

prevent fire spreading from house to house. As the street is in the Historic

District Preservation Zone, there are strict regulations on how buildings are

renovated.

Museum of Commerce & Domestic Life

MUSEUM

(商いと暮らし博物館; %0893-44-5220; 1938 Uchiko; ¥200; h9am-4.30pm)

A few minutes’ walk north along the main road from the visitors’ centre is

the Museum of Commerce & Domestic Life, which exhibits historical

materials and wax figures portraying a typical merchant’s home of the early

20th century. If you understand Japanese, the recorded voicing of various

characters in the house is entertaining; otherwise, get the lowdown from the

English flyer.

Uchiko-za

THEATRE

(内子座; %0893-44-2840; www.town.uchiko.ehime.jp/site/uchikoza; 1515 Uchiko; ¥400; h9am-4.30pm)

About halfway between the station and Yōkaichi is Uchiko-za, a magnificent

traditional kabuki theatre. Originally constructed in 1916, the theatre was

completely restored in 1985, complete with a revolving stage. Performances

are still held at the theatre; call ahead for a schedule.

Ōmori Wa-rōsoku

FACTORY

(大森和ろうそく; %0893-43-0385; http://o-warousoku.com; 2214 Uchiko; h9am-5pm, closed

Tue & Fri)

Here at Uchiko’s last remaining candle manufacturer the candles are still

made by hand, according to traditional methods; you can watch the candle

makers at work.

4 Sleeping

o Uchikobare Guesthouse & Bar

HOSTEL

¥¥

(内子晴れ; %0893-57-6330; https://uchikobare.jp; 3025 Uchiko; dm/d from ¥3000/10,000; pnaW) This lovely spot in a totally refurbished building right on Uchiko’s Yōkaichi

main street provides the town’s cheapest accommodation with both mixed

and womenonly dorm rooms and a private room with a shared bathroom. It’s

impressively done, with welcoming English-speaking hosts and a gorgeous

tatami-mat cafe and bar in operation from 1pm-10pm.

o Nakahaga Residence Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(中芳我邸ゲストハウス; %0893-50-6270; www.we-love-uchiko.jp/stay/581; 2655 Uchiko;

s/tw ¥8000/12,000; naW)

Uchiko has some gorgeous traditional places to stay and the Nakahaga

Residence on Yōkaichi tops the list. This stylish, remodelled storehouse is a

classic and feels like a step back in time to the Edo period. It only has the

one lodging room with twin beds. No meals on offer, but there are plenty of

places to eat nearby.

Takahashi Residence

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(文化交流ヴィラ高橋邸; %0893-44-2354; www.we-love-uchiko.jp/stay/562; 2403 Uchiko;

per person with breakfast ¥6260; pnaW)

This lovely refurbished two-storey traditional place, just off Yōkaichi, is a

registered ‘cultural exchange house’ and takes only one booking per night. It

can sleep up to 10. There are huge stone walls at the entrance, an Edo

period–style gate, and a well-kept garden. Enjoy a real Japanese experience.

Oyado Tsuki-no-ya

GUESTHOUSE

¥¥

(御宿月乃家; %0893-43-1160; www.uchikotsukinoya.com; 2646 Uchiko; s/tw ¥6400/10,500;

naW)

A brilliant place to stay right on Yōkaichi in the protected area, Tsuki-no-ya

is a beautifully restored traditional building with classic tatami rooms and

Japanese-style shared bathroom and toilet facilities. Meals are available and

lovingly prepared using local produce by the couple who run the place –

dinner ¥2310, breakfast ¥1050. Order the meals for the full experience.

5 Eating

Nanze

CAFE

¥

(%0893-44-6440; 2023 Uchiko; meals from ¥700; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed)

Nice spot out the back of the visitors’ centre with tons of parking. Offers

interesting options including a seasonal set lunch, French toast, spaghetti and

Locomoco (everyone’s Hawaiian favourite). Local products are also for sale.

Uchiko Fresh Park Karari

MARKET

¥

(内子フレッシュパークからり; %0893-43-1122; www.karari.jp; 2452 Uchiko; h9am-

5pm)

Above the Oda River, this farmers market offers fresh, locally grown

produce, prepared bentō (boxed meals) and regional specialities. There’s a

restaurant serving good teishoku meals.

Restaurant Karari

JAPANESE

¥¥

(レストランからり; www.karari.jp; 2452 Uchiko; Karari set ¥1200; h11am-7.30pm)

This lovely spot by the walking bridge serves good teishoku meals. Try the

Karari set (¥1200) and choose a main, served with bread or rice, from the

picture menu. Then head up to the salad bar for your fill of hearty greens.

8 Getting There & Away

Having your own wheels is the best way to get to Tsuchi-goya. There are

buses from Matsuyama, requiring a change of buses at Kuma, but these only

operate on weekends and public holidays.

To get to the Ishizuchi cable-car station, Setouchi Bus (せとうちバス;

%0898-23-3450; www.setouchibus.co.jp; one way ¥1000) runs buses between JR Iyo-Saijo station (earliest departure is at 7.47am) and the Shimodani cable-car station

(one hour). The latest departure back is at 5.23pm. There are plenty of places

to park (¥400) at the bottom cable-car station if you come by car.

Uwajima 宇和島

%0895 / POP 87,000

A pleasant, unhurried castle town, Uwajima (宇和島) draws a steady trickle

of titillated travellers to its Shintō fertility shrine and attached sex museum.

Though most travellers bypass Uwajima en route to Matsuyama, the town

makes an enjoyable stop and retains some noteworthy traditions, such as

pearl farming, terraced agriculture and bloodless bullfighting.

Uwajima

1 Top Sights

1 Taga-jinja & Sex Museum

B1

1 Sights

2 Shiroyama-kōen

C3

3 Uwajima-jō

C4

4 Sleeping

4 Kiya Ryokan

D4

5 Eating

5 Wabisuke

C3

1 Sights

o Taga-jinja & Sex Museum

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 多賀神社・凸凹神堂; %0895-22-3444;

www.geocities.jp/taga_shrine; 1340 Fujie; ¥800; h8am-5pm)

Once upon a time, many Shintō shrines had a connection to fertility rites. Of

those that remain, Taga-jinja is one of the best known. The grounds of the

shrine have a few tree-trunk phalluses and numerous statues and stone

carvings, but it’s the notorious three-storey Sex Museum, packed with

anthropological erotica from all corners of the procreating world, that brings

‘em in.

Uwajima-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宇和島城; %0895-22-2832; 1 Marunouchi; ¥200; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun) Dating from 1601, Uwajima-jō is a small three-storey castle on an 80m-high

hill in the centre of town. The present structure was rebuilt in 1666 by the

daimyō (regional lord) Date Munetoshi. The donjon (main keep) is one of

only 12 originals left in Japan; there is nothing much to see inside. The

surrounding park, Shiroyama-kōen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 城山公園; hsunrisesunset), is a pleasant place for a stroll.

2 Activities

o Forest Canyon

ADVENTURE SPORTS

(フォレストキャニオン; %0895-49-6663; www.nametoko.net; Meguro, Matsuno-chō;

canyoning full-/half-day ¥11,000/7000)

For an adrenaline rush, try canyoning in the beautiful Nametoko Valley (an

easy day trip from Uwajima). Forest Canyon is dedicated to safety, with

experienced guides, so guests can freely leap into deep pools, climb up some

waterfalls, abseil down others and swoosh down natural slides (including

one that’s 40m long!) created by the river.

All equipment – including wetsuits, helmets and life jackets – is included

in the rate. They also have a river-rafting option.

WORTH A TRIP

HIKING TEMPLES 41 & 42

A great way to get a taste of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage without having to slog it out along busy

main roads is to follow this mini-circuit that starts and ends in Uwajima. This walk between

Temple 42 Butsumoku-ji ( MAP ; 佛木寺) and Temple 41 Ryūkō-ji ( MAP ; 龍光寺) covers a little more than 5km.

Take a bus from Uwajima Station direct to Temple 42, Butsumoku-ji. After admiring the

thatched bell-house and the statues of the seven gods of good fortune, follow the clearly marked

henro trail back through picturesque farming villages and rice paddies to Temple 41, Ryūkō-ji.

Here, a steep stone staircase leads up to a pleasant temple and shrine overlooking the fields.

From outside Ryūkō-ji there are signs to Muden Station (務田駅), a 15-minute walk away.

From here, you can catch a train or bus back to Uwajima.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a few business hotels with standard rooms near the station in the

centre of town.

There’s eating and drinking action in the main street outside JR Uwajima

Station and in and around the Uwajima Kisaiya Shopping Arcade between

the station and the castle.

o Kiya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 木屋旅館; %0895-22-0101; www.kiyaryokan.com; 2-8-2 Honmachiōte;

ryokan rental per night ¥21,600, plus per person ¥5400; aW)

A rare opportunity to rent an entire house where literary greats have stayed,

Kiya Ryokan offers a compelling reason for an Uwajima stop. Though not a

traditional ryokan experience – no in-house staff or elaborate kaiseki

(Japanese haute cuisine) dinners – it is uniquely modern and appealing. Best

enjoyed by, and most economical for, groups (the house sleeps up to eight).

o Wabisuke

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 和日輔; %0895-24-0028; www.sk-wabisuke.com; 1-2-6 Ebisu-machi; dishes ¥1000-1500; h11am-10pm)

This restaurant, just off the arcade, is an elegant spot to try the local tai (sea

bream) specialities, available here as a tai-meshi gozen (sea bream set

course; ¥1880). There is a picture menu, and plenty of small plates to choose

from, and you’ll find Wabisuke easy to spot with its red ushi-oni (red devil-

bull) out front.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (宇和島市観光協会; %0895-22-3934; www.uwajima-

tourism.org; h9am-6pm) At Kisaiya Hiroba at the port; find a more conveniently

located information booth (%0895-23-5530; h9am-6pm) at the JR station.

There are international ATMs at the post office across from the station.

8 Getting There & Around

If you’ve come from points south, then from Uwajima you’re back in the

land of the trains. Uwajima is on the JR Yosan line, and you can head to

Matsuyama ( tokkyū ¥3710, 1½ hours) via Uchiko ( tokkyū ¥2990, one hour).

The JR Yodo line runs east to Kubokawa and Kōchi Prefecture.

You can hire bicycles (per hour ¥100; h9.30am-5pm) at the station, in the corner

office on the left after you exit the building.

SHIKOKU–KYŪSHŪ FERRY

Throughout the centuries, pilgrims from Kyūshū traditionally arrived in Yawatahama (八幡浜)

by ferry and then started and ended their pilgrimage at nearby Temple 43 – Meiseki-ji (明石寺).

The Uwajima Unyu Ferry (宇和島運輸フェリー; %0894-22-2100;

www.uwajimaunyu.co.jp) connects Yawatahama to Beppu (¥3100, three hours, six daily) and Usuki (¥2310, 2½ hours, six or seven daily) on Kyūshū. You can also take your car.

By the fastest train, Yawatahama is 45 minutes from Matsuyama (¥3180) and 30 minutes

from Uwajima (¥2130).

From the station, Yawatahama port is a five-minute bus ride (¥150) or taxi ride (around

¥630); because buses are so infrequent, the 25-minute (1.5km) walk from Yawatahama Station

is often faster than waiting for a bus.

KAGAWA PREFECTURE 香川県

Formerly known as Sanuki, Kagawa Prefecture (香川県) is the smallest of

Shikoku’s four regions and the smallest of the country’s 47 prefectures. The

region’s hospitable weather and welcoming people have always been a

comfort to pilgrims as they come to the end of their journey. To henro,

Kagawa is known as Nehan-no-dōjō, the ‘place of completion’, because it

has the last 22 of the 88 pilgrimage temples.

Kagawa’s attractions include the celebrated shrine of Konpira-san in

Kotohira, the lively port city of Takamatsu with its world-renowned

Japanese garden, Ritsurinkōen, and the folk village of Shikoku-mura at

Yashima. Today, the prefecture is a major point of arrival for visitors to

Shikoku, since the only rail link with Honshū is via the Seto-ōhashi bridge to

Okayama.

Takamatsu 高松

%087 / POP 420,500

The buoyant port city of Takamatsu (高松) hums a vibrant, many-part

harmony – venerable castle grounds that host contemporary crafts fairs, the

small-town-big-city energy of a prefectural capital, regional culinary

specialities including Sanuki-udon and the heritage of traditional gems such

as Ritsurin-kōen. It’s urban Japan at its most pleasant and pretension-free.

While there has been a lot of modernisation around the station and port,

the heart of Takamatsu still beats further south in the colourful entertainment

district and arcades of the central city.

On a practical and pleasurable level, Takamatsu is also a transportation

hub. It serves as a jumping-off point for day-trippers to catch ferries to the

snowballing art scene on the islands of the Inland Sea, and good train links

mean visitors can consider staying in Takamatsu to visit prefecture hot spots

such as Kotohira, Zentsūji, Marugame and Yashima.

Takamatsu

1 Top Sights

1 Ritsurin-kōen

A5

1 Sights

2 Sanuki Folkcraft Museum

A5

3 Takamatsu City Museum of Art

B3

4 Takamatsu-jō

B2

4 Sleeping

5 JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu

A2

6 Konyamachi Guesthouse Kuku

A3

7 Takamatsu Tokyu REI Hotel

A3

5 Eating

8 Bijin-tei

B3

9 Kawafuku

B3

10 Kawanishi Broiler

B3

11 Ofukuro

B3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

12 Grandfather’s

B4

13 Kikugetsu-tei

A5

8 Information

14 Kagawa International Exchange Centre

A3

15 Tourist Information Office

A2

8 Transport

16 Bus Terminal

A2

17 Takamatsu City Rent-a-Bicycle

A2

1 Sights

o Ritsurin-kōen

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 栗林公園; %087-833-7411; www.my-kagawa.jp/brochure; 1-20-16

Ritsurin-chō; ¥410; hsunrise-sunset)

One of the most beautiful gardens in the country, Ritsurin-kōen dates from

the mid-1600s and took more than a century to complete. Designed as a

walking garden for the enjoyment of the daimyō (regional lord), the park

winds around a series of ponds, tearooms, bridges and islands. To the west,

Shiun-zan (Mt Shiun) forms an impressive backdrop to the garden. The

classic view of Engetsu-kyō bridge with the mountain in the background is

one of the finest in Japan.

Enclosed by the garden are a number of interesting sights, including

Sanuki Folkcraft Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 讃岐民芸館; 1-20-16 Ritsurin-chō; h8.30am-5pm) F, which displays local crafts dating back to the Tokugawa

dynasty. There are a number of teahouses in the park, including 17thcentury

Kikugetsu-tei ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 掬月亭; %087-833-7411; 1-20-16 Ritsurin-chō; matcha

¥710; h9am-4pm), where you can sip matcha with a traditional sweet and enjoy

various garden tableaux from the tatami rooms. You can also try the lovely

thatched-roof Higurashi-tei, which dates from 1898.

Takamatsu-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高松城; 2-1 Tamamo-chō; ¥200; hsunrisesunset) The site of Takamatsu’s castle now forms delightful Tamamo-kōen, a park

where the walls and seawater moat survive, along with several of the

original turrets. Each spring a swimming race is held in the moat to honour

an age-old chivalrous tradition. The original castle was built in 1588 for

Itoma Chikamasa, and was the home of the region’s military rulers until the

Meiji Restoration, nearly 300 years later. The restored castle keep is open to

the public.

Takamatsu City Museum of Art

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高松市美術館; %087-823-1711;

www.city.takamatsu.kagawa.jp/museum/takamatsu; 10-4 Konyamachi; ¥200; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) This impressive inner-city gallery is testament to Takamatsu’s quality art

scene. The light and spacious refitting of a former Bank of Japan building is

a stroke of curatorial genius, well served by interesting exhibitions on

rotation from across Japan and the world. It’s often open until 7pm during

special exhibitions.

VISITING NAOSHIMA & SHŌDO-SHIMA

Takamatsu is a great base for exploring the olive groves of Shōdo-shima, the art scene of

Naoshima and the islands of the Inland Sea, all less than an hour by boat.

4 Sleeping

o Guest House Wakabaya

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(ゲストハウス若葉屋; %070-5683-5335; www.wakabaya.main.jp/en; 603-1 Kankō-chō;

dm/s/tw ¥3000/4000/8000; paW)

Wakabaya’s many pluses include an English-speaking owner, reasonable

rates, clean rooms and bathroom facilities, a living room and a kitchen, a

washing machine (¥100), free parking, wi-fi and bicycle rental (per day

¥500); they’ll even keep baggage for you. Best of all, it’s a super-friendly

place to stay. It’s a five-minute walk from Hanazono Station on the Kotoden

Nagao line.

Konyamachi Guesthouse Kuku

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 紺屋町ゲストハウス 久々; %087-887-5665; www.kuku81.com/; 3-13 Konyamachi; dm/apt ¥3500/20,000; aW)

This well-appointed three-storey hostel meets all requirements. It’s

spotlessly clean; convenient to the station, port and arcades; and has mixed

and womenonly dorm rooms, a communal kitchen, laundry facilities and wi-

fi. Apartment-style rooms on the 3rd-floor sleep up to four and have a

private bathroom and a kitchen.

Takamatsu Tokyu REI Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; %087-821-0109; www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/takamatsu-r; 9-9 Hyogomachi; r from ¥9500; pnaW) This recently refurbished place in the Tokyu hotels stable is extremely

convenient with quality, practical rooms and full amenities. No surprises

here, but you know what you’re getting will be decent. It’s right on the

corner of Chūō-dōri and the Hyogomachi arcade, a short stroll south from

the station.

JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; JRホテルクレメント高松; %087-811-1111; www.jrclement.co.jp; 1-

1 Hamano-chō; s/d from ¥14,000/23,000; pnaW)

This eye-catching place is the top hotel in town and one of the first buildings

you see as you exit JR Takamatsu Station. The rooms are spacious, and

there’s a good selection of bars and restaurants with sweeping views of the

Inland Sea. Big convenience factor here, but you’ll pay appropriately.

5 Eating & Drinking

Restaurants and bars cluster in the covered arcades to the west side of the

tracks between Kotoden Kataharamachi and Kawaramachi stations. In

particular, north–south running Lion-dōri and its side streets throw up an

abundance of eating and drinking options. People here are serious about their

udon and no trip would be complete without at least one bowl of Sanuki-

udon. Look for the words te-uchi udon (手打ちうどん), meaning

‘handmade noodles’.

o Kawanishi Broiler

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP ; カワニシブロイラー; %087-811-6845; https://kawanishiburoiya.gorp.jp; 9-8

Kawaramachi; plates from ¥200; h4pm-midnight)

A top spot for beer, yakitori and just about anything featuring chicken. Relax

inside at the counter or tables and enjoy the mayhem as locals come and go,

or sit out at one of the three tables in the arcade and watch the world pass by.

All drinks are ¥280, the beer is cold and the food is extremely tasty.

o Ofukuro

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おふくろ; %087-862-0822; 1-11-12 Kawaramachi; dishes ¥500-1500; h5-11pm Mon-Sat)

This fabulous washofu (local eating house) in the heart of the entertainment

district offers a well-priced and hearty dining experience. A number of

delicious, preprepared vegetarian and fish dishes sit on the counter, served

with salad and miso soup. It might be a tad hard to find, but it’s right on

Tokiwa Shinmachi shopping street and worth the effort.

Kawafuku

UDON

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 川福; %087-822-1956; www.kawafuku.co.jp; 2-1 Daiku-machi; udon lunch

set ¥600; h11am-11.30pm)

One of Takamatsu’s best-known udon shops, Kawafuku serves its silky

Sanuki-udon in a variety of ways. Choose from the plastic food models

outside. Look for the red-and-white striped lanterns in front, along Lion-

dōri.

Bijin-tei

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 美人亭; %087-861-0275; 2-2-10 Kawara-machi; dishes ¥700-1500; h5-10pm Mon-Sat)

Smiling mama-san sees all at this discreet seafood izakaya. Point to the

menu items already plated – the pickled tako (octopus) is a mouthful – or ask

for an osusume (recommendation). It’s on the ground floor of a unobtrusive

building containing several snack bars and karaoke joints. Look for the white

sign with the shop’s name written in black kanji.

o Grandfather’s

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グランドファーザーズ; %087-837-5177;

www.grandfather.jp/takamatsu; B1 fl, 1-6-4 Tokiwa-chō; h6pm-late)

The scene here is so smooth you’ll fall off your seat as the bookish owner

plays vintage ’60s, ’70s and ’80s funk and soul from his enormous collection

of more than 7000 records and CDs. This cool, dark, downstairs place is a

pleasant escape. It’s our top pick, but if you’re averse to smoke, get there

and away early in the evening.

8 Information

Kagawa International Exchange Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; アイパル香川

国際交流会館; I-PAL Kagawa; %087-837-5908; www.i-pal.or.jp; 1-11-63 Banchō; h9am-5pm;

W) In the northwest corner of Chūō-kōen, this international exchange

association has a small library, a satellite TV and internet access.

Tourist Information Office (高松市観光案内所; %087-826-0170; h9am-8pm) Get

everything you need inside JR Takamatsu Station. English speakers who can

help you find accommodation are on hand, and English brochures are

available.

8 Getting There & Away

BOAT

Jumbo Ferry (%087-811-6688; www.ferry.co.jp; 5-12-1 Asahi-machi) Runs between

Takamatsu and Kōbe (¥1940, four hours).

Shikoku Kisen (www.shikokukisen.com; 8-21 Sanpōto) Runs ferries between

Takamatsu, the art island of Naoshima, and Uno in Okayama Prefecture.

BUS

There are daily bus services to/from Tokyo (9½ hours), Nagoya (5½ hours),

Kyoto (3½ hours) and most other major cities from the bus terminal ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ).

TRAIN

Takamatsu has regular rail links to Honshū. There are frequent trains to

Okayama (¥2030, 55 minutes), where you can connect to shinkansen

services that will whiz you to any of Japan’s major cities in just a few hours.

From Takamatsu, tokkyū trains on the JR Kōtoku line run southeast to

Tokushima (¥3360, one hour); the JR Yosan line runs west to Matsuyama

(¥6390, 2½ hours); and the JR Dosan line runs to Kōchi (¥5360, two hours).

The private Kotoden line also runs direct to Kotohira (¥620, one hour).

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Takamatsu is flat and excellent for biking. The city offers a great deal on its

rental bicycles (per 24 hours ¥100; photo ID is required), which can be

picked up at Takamatsu City Rent-a-Bicycle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 高松駅前

広場地下レンタサイクルポート; %087-821-0400; h7am-10pm) in the

underground bicycle park outside JR Takamatsu Station. Grab a pamphlet

with a map showing six other spots around town where you can return the

bike.

TRAIN

Kotoden (ことでん; %087-831-6008; www.kotoden.co.jp), a friendly and efficient

local train company, runs trains on three lines:

A the yellow line runs from Takamatsu-Chikkō station, by the castle park in

central Takamatsu to Kotohira (stops at Ritsurin-kōen)

A the green line runs from Takamatsu-Chikkō out to Nagao, where you’ll

find Temple 87, Nagao-ji

A the red line runs from Kawaramachi out east to Shido, stopping at

Kotoden-Yashima and Yakuri on the way.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

UTAZU

For a taste of immersion in a small-town historic district where nothing caters to tourists, book

a night or two in the town of Utazu. Along the old henro trail, the local government has teamed

up with the Chiiori Trust to preserve and utilise two historic houses, known as Co-machi-no-ie

(古街の家; %0877-85-6941; www.co-machi-no-ie.jp/english; s/d/tr from

¥14,000/16,000/21,000; naW).

The Co-machi houses are best for self-caterers looking to connect with the community –

those who welcome the micro-adventures of interacting with the local shop owners, poking

around Gōshō-ji ( MAP ; 郷照寺; Temple 78) and checking out the landscape paintings

housed in the waterfront Higashiyama Kaii Setouchi Art Museum. Utazu is a good base for

self-driving visitors, with easy access to Marugame, Zentsū-ji and Konpira-san.

Yashima 屋島

About 5km east of Takamatsu and highly visible from the city is the 292m-

high tabletop plateau of Yashima (屋島), where you’ll find Yashima-ji,

Temple 84 of the 88. Yashima, meaning ‘roof island’, is a peninsula of lava

and is part of Seto-nai-kai National Park. There are great views over the

Inland Sea and Takamatsu from various viewing spots.

Just to the east of Yashima and still in Seto-nai-kai National Park is

Goken-zan, the mountainous stony peninsula that attracted Isamu Noguchi to

live here with a source of stone for his sculptures. Here you’ll also find

Temple 85, Yakuri-ji and a fun retro cable car.

1 Sights

o Shikoku-mura

MUSEUM

(四国村; %087-843-3111; www.shikokumura.or.jp; 91 Yashima-nakamachi; ¥1000; h8.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)

About 500m north of Yashima station, Shikoku-mura is an excellent village

museum that houses old buildings transported here from all over Shikoku

and neighbouring islands. The village’s fine kabuki stage came from Shōdo-

shima, which is famous for its traditional farmers’ kabuki performances.

There is also an excellent restaurant serving, you guessed it, Sanukiudon

(from ¥450) in an old farmhouse building as you leave the village.

Temple 85: Yakuri-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 八栗寺; %087-845-9603; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kagawa/85yakuriji; 3416 Mure, Mure-chō) F

Half the fun of visiting Yakuri-ji may be riding the retro cable car (八栗

ケーブル; %087-845-2218; www.shikoku-cable.co.jp; 3378-3 Mure, Mure-chō; one way/return

¥460/930; hevery 15min 7.30am-5.15pm) up and down to the temple, but this is a

spectacular place in its own right, sitting in the forest under the high cliffs of

Goken-san. As this is Temple 85 of the 88, most pilgrims at Yakuri-ji are

excited as they get closer to their goal. This is a temple at which to pray for

success in business, study and matchmaking! Take your passport as there’s

usually a 50% discount for foreigners on the cable car.

Temple 84: Yashima-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 屋島寺; %087-841-9418; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kagawa/84yashimaji; 1808 Yashima-higashimachi) F

Yashima-ji, Temple 84 of the 88, sits atop the tabletop mountain of Yashima,

to the east of Takamatsu. This was the site of a decisive battle between the

Genji and Heike clans in the late 12th century, and the temple’s Treasure

House (¥500) exhibits artefacts relating to the battle. Check out the Pond of

Blood, where victorious Genji warriors washed the blood from their swords.

You can either walk up from Yashima Station or drive up the scenic road.

Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum

MUSEUM

(イサムノグチ庭園美術館; %087-870-1500; www.isamunoguchi.or.jp; 3-5-19 Mure-chō;

tours ¥2160; htours by appointment 10am, 1pm & 3pm Tue, Thu & Sat)

Born in Los Angeles to a Japanese poet and an American writer, Noguchi

(1904–1988) set up a studio and residence here in 1970. Today the complex

is filled with hundreds of Noguchi’s works, mostly unfinished. Inspiring

sculptures are displayed in the beautifully restored buildings and in the

surrounding landscape. You can also check out the house in which Noguchi

lived. Email ahead for reservations, preferably two weeks or more in

advance (see the website for reservations and access details).

Tours in English are possible.

5 Eating

There are simple eating options (mainly specialising in udon) scattered

about, particularly near the train stations of Yashima and Yakuri.

Udon Honjin Yamada-ya

UDON

¥

(うどん本陣山田家; %087-845-6522; www.yamada-ya.com; 3186 Mure, Mure-chō; dishes

from ¥800; h10am-8pm)

Something special not too far from the base of the Yakuri Cable Car east of

Takamatsu. This is udon in a lovely setting in the old Yamada residence, a

‘Cultural Property of Japan’, eating in elegant tatami rooms and gazing out

on a perfectly manicured Japanese garden. Tie in lunch here with a visit to

Yakuri-ji, Temple 85.

8 Getting There & Away

Yashima is six stops from Takamatsu’s Kawaramachi Station on the private

Kotoden line (¥320). It’s a very pleasant hour-long hike up the forested back

side of the plateau to the temple. If you have your own wheels, the road up

Yashima offers great views over Takamatsu and the Inland Sea and runs

right up to the temple. At the time of research, the road was free, but it may

become a toll road again.

Yakuri is eight stops from Kawaramachi on the Kotoden line (¥340). The

Yakuri Cable Car station is easily reached by car from Takamatsu in 30

minutes.

Marugame 丸亀

%0877 / POP 110,500

Marugame (丸亀) is a bustling city that is only 25 minutes from Takamatsu

by train. Home to Marugame-jō, a castle dating from 1597, the fascinating

Uchiwa-no-Minato paperfan museum and some top art museums, it makes

an interesting day trip. Those wanting an authentic Shikoku experience for a

few days might consider staying at one of the Co-machi-no-ie houses in

Utazu, the next town north.

1 Sights

o Marugame-jō

CASTLE

(丸亀城; %877-24-8816; www.marugame-castle.jp; ¥200; h9am-4.30pm)

This small castle dates from 1597. It took five years to build and is one of

only 12 castles in Japan to have its original wooden donjon intact. It’s known

for its exquisite stone walls, moat and 1000 cherry trees that virtually

explode with blossoms in spring. The entrance fee is for the castle keep; it’s

free to stroll inside the castle. Marugame Castle is a 10-minute walk

southeast from JR Marugame Station.

Higashiyama Kaii Setouchi Art Museum

MUSEUM

(東山魁夷せとうち美術館; %0877-44-1333;

www.pref.kagawa.jp/higashiyama/english/museum; 224-13 Aza Minami-dōri, Shamijima, Sakaide;

¥300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Set on the waterfront of the Inland Sea with a sweeping view of Seto-ōhashi,

this museum showcases the works of landscape painter Higashiyama Kaii

(1908–99). It was Higashiyama who proposed the colour for the Seto

Bridge.

Uchiwa-no-Minato Museum

MUSEUM

(うちわの港ミュージアム; %0877-24-7055;

www.city.marugame.kagawa.jp/sightseeing/spot/uchiwa_museum; 307-15 Minato-machi; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) F

This museum has displays and demonstrations on how uchiwa (round paper

fans) are made. Around 90% of Japan’s uchiwa are still made in Marugame.

You can learn how to make a paper fan in 50 minutes for ¥700. The museum

is a 15-minute walk from the station, near the harbour.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Marugame Guesthouse

HOSTEL

¥

(丸亀ゲストハウス; %0877-21-2942; www.marugame-guesthouse.com; 30-1 Fukushima-chō;

dm from ¥3000; naW)

This new place has mixed, men’s and women’s dorms spread over three

floors in a former office building within 50m of the North Exit of Marugame

Station. SPACE Fukufuku is a very pleasant communal area for guests, plus

there’s a decent kitchen and laundry facilities

o Ikkaku

CHICKEN

¥

(一鶴; %0877-22-9111; www.ikkaku.co.jp; 317 Hamachō; plate from ¥750; h11am-2pm & 4-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Honetsuki-dori (spicy grilled chicken on the bone) is a Marugame speciality

– try it at Ikkaku, a very popular local restaurant that has expanded its

operations, taking Marugame’s delicious dish as far as Osaka and

Yokohama. Head out of the North Exit at the station, turn right and walk for

200m.

8 Information

Marugame Tourist Information Office (丸亀市観光案内所; %0877-22-0331;

www.love-marugame.jp; h9am-5.30pm) This office at JR Marugame Station has local

maps and brochures, including in English. There is also an office at

Marugame Castle.

Marugame Castle Tourist Information Office (丸亀城観光案内所; %0877-

25-3881; www.love-marugame.jp; h9am-4.30pm) Everything you could need in terms of maps and brochures is available at Marugame’s second tourist office at the

base of the castle.

8 Getting There & Around

Marugame is easily visited as a day trip by train ( tokkyū ¥1070, 25 minutes)

from Takamatsu.

Across from the station, bike hire (%0877-25-1127; www.love-marugame.jp; 42-6

Hamamachi; per day normal/electric ¥300/700; h7am-7pm) is available from the bicycle

park. By bike, it’s five minutes to the castle and less than an hour to cycle

from Marugame to Zentsuji.

WORTH A TRIP

TEMPLE 88: ŌKUBO-JI

The last of the Shikoku pilgrimage’s 88 Temples, Ōkubo-ji ( MAP ; 大窪寺; %0879-56-2278;

www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kagawa/88ookuboji; 96 Tawa-kanewari, Sanuki-chō) F sits in the mountains in the southeast of Kagawa Prefecture and is well worth a visit. It’s fitting that

walking henro should face a stiff climb to get to the final temple, though if they are doing it

properly, they still have to walk back to Temple one to complete the circle – for the search for

enlightenment is, like a circle, never-ending.

Zentsuji 善通寺

%0877 / POP 35,000

The small town of Zentsuji is built up around Zentsū-ji, Temple 75 of the 88,

and the place where Kōbō Daishi was born. The temple came first, then the

town. If you’re on a bike, there are several other pilgrimage temples within

easy reach of this one, including Temple 72, Mandara-ji, and Temple 73,

Shusshaka-ji. While these temples were originally sub-temples of Zentsū-ji,

they soon became independent and part of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage in their

own right.

1 Sights

o Temple 75: Zentsū-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 善通寺; %0877-62-0111; www.zentsuji.com; 3-3-1 Zentsūji-chō) F

Zentsū-ji, Temple 75 of the sacred 88, is the largest of the temples – most of

the other 87 could fit in its car park. This is where Kōbō Daishi was born,

and the temple boasts a magnificent five-storey pagoda and giant camphor

trees that are said to date back as far as Daishi’s childhood. The temple is

about 1.5km from the JR Zentsuji Station.

Visitors can venture into the basement of the Mie-dō and traverse a 100m-

long passageway (戒壇めぐり; ¥500; 8am to 5pm) in pitch darkness. By

moving carefully along with your hand pressed to the passageway’s wall

(painted with mandalas, angels and lotus flowers), you are said to be safely

following Buddha’s way.

Temple 73: Shusshaka-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 出釈迦寺; %0877-63-0073; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kagawa/73shusyakaji; 1091

Yoshiwara-chō) F

Temple 73 on the 88 Temple Circuit, Shusshaka-ji was moved to the valley

200 years ago to make it more accessible to pilgrims. Before that, it was up a

steep, precipitous mountain rising 500m above the plain. It is said that at the

age of seven, Kōbō Daishi threw himself off this peak crying ‘If I am called

to save the people, save me Buddha!’ Legend says he was saved by angels

who carried him back to the top.

This is one of the places where magical powers are attributed to the

mountains.

4 Sleeping & Eating

A number of well-priced, casual restaurants are clustered around JR Zentsuji

Station.

Kaze-no-Kuguru

HOSTEL

$

(風のくぐる; %0877-63-6110; www.kuguru.net; 306-1 Kami-yoshida-machi; dm ¥3000, s/d from

¥3800/6600; paW)

Located on a main road on the henro trail, this hostel is an excellent choice:

friendly, immaculate and flooded with natural light. There are free laundry

facilities and wi-fi. It’s a brown building with lots of windows a 15-minute

walk from the station; find a map on the website.

8 Getting There & Away

Kagawa is a very small prefecture. JR Zentsuji Station is only 45 minutes

from Takamatsu (¥760) and only five minutes from Kotohira (¥210).

Kotohira 琴平

%0877 / POP 9800

The small village of Kotohira (琴平) is home to one of Shikoku’s most

famous tourist attractions, Konpira-san, a Shintō shrine dedicated to the god

of seafarers. Ascending its 1368 steep stone steps is a rite of passage for

many Japanese people, with plenty of interesting en-route distractions.

Mention to any older Japanese person that you’ve been to Shikoku and one

of the first things they’ll ask you is whether you climbed Konpira-san.

Kotohira

1 Top Sights

1 Kanamaru-za

C3

2 Konpira-san

A3

1 Sights

3 Asahi-no-Yashiro

A3

4 Ema-dō

A3

5 Gohonsha

A3

6 Hōmotsu-kan

B3

7 Ō-mon

B3

8 Shoin

B3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

9 Nakano Udon School

C2

4 Sleeping

10 Kotobuki Ryokan

D2

11 Kotohira Kadan

D3

12 Kotohira Riverside Hotel

D2

5 Eating

13 Konpira Udon

C2

14 New Green

D2

1 Sights

o Konpira-san

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金刀比羅宮; 892-1 Kotohira-chō; Hōmotsu-kan ¥800, Shoin ¥800; hHōmotsu-kan & Shoin 8.30am-4.30pm)

Konpira-san or, more formally, Kotohira-gū, was originally a Buddhist and

Shintō temple dedicated to the guardian of mariners. It became exclusively a

Shintō shrine after the Meiji Restoration.

A lot of fuss is made about how strenuous the climb (1368 steps) to the

top is, but if you’ve made it this far in Japan, you’ve probably completed a

few lengthy ascents to shrines already.

The first notable landmark on the long climb is Ō-mon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;

大門), a stone gateway that leads to Hōmotsu-kan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宝物

館; Treasure House; ¥800; h8.30am-4.30pm), where the collection of treasures is

pretty underwhelming for such a major shrine. Nearby you will find five

traditional-sweets vendors at tables shaded by large white parasols. A

symbol of ancient times, the vendors (the Gonin Byakushō – Five Farmers)

are descendants of the original families who were permitted to trade within

the grounds of the shrine. Further uphill is Shoin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 書院;

Reception Hall; ¥800; h8.30am-4.30pm), a designated National Treasure that dates

from 1659 and has some interesting screen paintings and a small garden.

Continuing the ascent, you eventually reach large Asahi-no-Yashiro ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 旭社; Shrine of the Rising Sun) F. Built in 1837, this large hall is dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu and is noted for its ornate woodcarving. From here, the short final ascent, which is the most beautiful leg of

the walk, brings you to Gohonsha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 御本社; Gohon Hall) F

and Ema-dō ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 絵馬堂; Ema Pavilion) F. The latter is filled with maritime offerings ranging from pictures of ships and models to modern ship

engines. From this level, there are spectacular views that extend right down

to the coast and over the Inland Sea.

Keen climbers can continue for another 500 or so steps up to Oku-sha

(Inner Shrine), which features stone carvings of tengu (bird-like demons) on

the cliff.

o Kanamaru-za

THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 金丸座; %0877-73-3846; www.konpirakabuki.jp/index.html; ¥500; h9am-5pm)

This is Japan’s oldest kabuki playhouse, though it had a lengthy stint as a

cinema before falling out of use. Nowadays it has sporadic shows, but can be

visited daily. The restorations are superb; wander backstage and see the

revolvingstage mechanism, basement trapdoors and a tunnel out to the front

of the theatre. The playhouse is 200m east of the main approach to Konpira-

san. There’s a good English leaflet available, and English-speaking volunteer

guides are sometimes on hand.

C Courses

Nakano Udon School

COOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中野うどん学校; %0877-75-0001; www.nakanoya.net; 796 Kotohirachō; ¥1500)

This is pretty good fun, learning how to make the legendary Sanuki-udon in

an hour in a shop on the main street leading up to the bottom of the steps to

Konpira-san. You get to knead the dough, jump on it, cut it, cook it and

finally eat it – and you receive a certificate to boot. Make a reservation

online.

4 Sleeping

o Kotobuki Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ことぶき旅館; %0877-73-3872; 245-5 Kotohirachō; r per person incl breakfast from ¥7200; paW)

This welcoming ryokan, which has comfortable tatami rooms and warm

hospitality, is conveniently situated by the riverside, only a few minutes’

walk from the start of the steps up to the shrine. Umbrellas, internet access

and spotless shared bathrooms are all available. The wooden bathtub is

gorgeous.

Kotohira Kadan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 琴平花壇; %0877-75-3232; www.kotohirakadan.jp; 1241-5 Kotohira-chō;

r/villas per person from ¥12,000/24,000; pnaW)

A luxurious refuge after a climb up Konpira-san, this elegant ryokan is about

three minutes’ walk from the centre of Kotohira. Most of the rooms are

Japanese style; there are three standalone villas too, all within a garden

setting. Soak weary muscles in the house onsen or in your own tub (some of

the tubs are open-air).

Beautifully presented meals feature local seafood and specialities of the

region, and though the staff don’t speak much English, they are extremely

warm and accommodating.

Kotohira Riverside Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 琴平リバーサイドホテル; %0877-75-1880; www.hananoyu.co.jp;

246-1 Kotohira-chō; s/d incl breakfast from ¥7500/13,000; paW)

This well-run business hotel has comfortable Western-style rooms. There’s

an in-house bath, but guests also receive discounted rates at its sister

property’s onsen nearby. The hotel has a comfortable restaurant, a coin

laundry and wi-fi throughout.

5 Eating

o New Green

CAFE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ニューグリーン; %0877-73-3451; www.newgreen.sakura.ne.jp; 722-1

Kotohira-chō; meals from ¥850; h8.30am-8.30pm Fri-Wed)

A cute neighbourhood spot where the local women cackle over coffee, New

Green is also one of the few restaurants in town open for dinner. If the

salads, kaki-furai (breaded, fried oysters) and omu-raisu (omelette filled

with fried rice) leave you wanting, there’s cake as well.

Konpira Udon

UDON

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; こんぴらうどん; %0877-73-5785; www.konpira.co.jp; 810-3 Kotohirachō; meals from ¥500; h8am-5pm)

Just short of the first set of steps leading up Konpira-san, this is one of

dozens of Sanuki-udon joints in Kotohira. You can’t miss it: the front

window shows off the busy udon-makers rolling out dough and slicing

noodles by hand. Try the kake udon (¥500), a simple dish of hot or cold

noodles in broth.

8 Information

MONEY

The ATMs at the post office (665 Kotohira-chō; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 9am-3pm

Sun) accept international cards.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Just before the start of the steps up Konpirasan, the small Kotohira Tourist

Information Office (琴平観光協会; %0877-75-3500; www.kotohirakankou.jp; 811

Kotohira-chō; h10am-6pm) offers up maps and English brochures for the town. A

limited number of rental bicycles (¥100/500 per hour/day) are available too.

Back by the first set of traffic lights, Kotohira Trip Base Kotori (%877-75-

2657; https://kotori.kotobus.com; 725 Kotohira-cho; h9am-6pm) offers lots of info about the village, plus coffee, cake and craft beer. This privately run place fills in

nicely for tourist information; the Tourist Information Office has no English

speakers, so they send foreigners here.

8 Getting There & Away

You can travel to Kotohira on the JR Dosan line from Kōchi ( tokkyū ¥4650,

1½ hours) and Ōboke (¥2990, 45 minutes). For Takamatsu and other places

on the north coast, change trains at Tadotsu. The private Kotoden line also

has regular direct trains from Takamatsu (¥620, one hour).

Kanonji 観音寺

%0875 / POP 64,000

Named after Kannon, Goddess of Mercy, the town of Kanonji (観音寺)

makes an interesting stop. In the town itself is Kotohiki-kōen, with an

attractive beach and the Zenigata coin-shaped sand sculpture. Nearby are

two of the 88 Temples, Jinne-in and Kanon-ji, Temples 68 and 69, in one

compound – the only place on the pilgrimage where two temples share the

same grounds. Inland, the Unpenji Ropeway whisks visitors up into the

mountains to 900m and amazing Unpen-ji, Temple 66 of the 88.

1 Sights

o Temple 66: Unpen-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 雲辺寺; %0883-74-0066; www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kagawa/66unpenji; 763-2 Hakuchi, Ikeda-chō) F

Unpen-ji, aptly meaning ‘Temple of the Surrounding Clouds’, is the highest

of the 88 Temples at 900m. Surprisingly, it actually sits in Tokushima

Prefecture, although it’s more or less right on the Kagawa Prefecture border.

While walking pilgrims dreaded the climb for centuries, modern henro ride

the cable car (雲辺寺ロープウェイ; %0875-54-4968; www.shikoku-cable.co.jp; 1974-

57 Onohara-chō Marui; return ¥2060; hevery 20min 7.20am-5pm) up from the Kagawa side.

There are 500 marvellous Rakan statues here. It is said that everyone has a

lookalike among the 500 – see if you can find yours.

Zenigata

LANDMARK

(銭形; Kotohiki-kōen)

Zenigata is a 350mcircumference coin-shaped sculpture in the sand dating

from 1633. The coin and its inscription are formed by huge trenches dug in

the sand, and are said to have been dug overnight by the local population as

a welcome present to their feudal lord. For the best views of the impressive

sculpture, drive or climb the hill to the observation point in Kotohiki-kōen,

directly behind Temple 68. There is a track up from the back of the temple.

Temples 68 & 69: Jinne-in & Kanon-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP ; 神恵院 ・ 観音寺; %0875-25-3871; www.shikoku88-6869.com; 3875 Yahata-chō) F

These two temples, said to have been founded in AD 703, are notable in that

this is the only point on the pilgrimage trail where two of the 88 Temples

share the same compound. Apparently this is a top spot to pray for victory in

battle, as Emperor Kameyama held ceremonies here in the 13th century that

helped repel an attempted Mongol invasion. There’s a good little noodle

shop on the grounds too.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Kanonji is only 45 minutes from Takamatsu by train. There isn’t much in the

way of sleeping options here, so it’s best visited on a day trip.

You’ll find small eating establishments serving standard Japanese fare

scattered about town, especially near the station.

8 Information

The tourist information office (%0875-25-3839; http://kanonji-kankou.jp; h9am-5pm), over the bridge from the station in the Taishō-bashi Plaza building, has maps

and information, plus regular/electric-assist rental bicycles (¥100/1000 per

day) for use between 9am and 4.30pm.

8 Getting There & Away

JR Kanonji station is only 45 minutes from Takamatsu by the fastest train

(¥2990) and 1¾ hours from Matsuyama (¥4980).

Kyūshū

Fukuoka & Around

Fukuoka

Dazaifu

Karatsu

Imari

Arita

Hirado

Nagasaki & Around

Nagasaki

Shimabara Peninsula

Kumamoto & Around

Kumamoto

Aso-san

Kurokawa Onsen

Takachiho

Oita Prefecture

Beppu

Yufuin

Kunisaki Peninsula

Usuki

Southern Kyūshū

Kagoshima

Sakurajima

Satsuma Peninsula

Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park

Miyazaki

Aoshima

Nichinan Coast

Obi

Kyūshū

Why Go?

Kyūshū (九州), Japan’s southern- and westernmost main island, is arguably

its warmest, friendliest and most beautiful, with active volcanic peaks, rocky,

lush and near-tropical coastlines, and great onsen virtually everywhere.

History and legend were made here: Jōmon ruins, Shintō’s sun goddess,

wealthy trading ports, cloistered foreigners, samurai rebels and one of the

earth’s greatest wartime tragedies all loom large.

Today, Fukuoka is a multicultural metropolis. In picturesque Nagasaki,

tragedy contrasts with a colourful trading history. Kumamoto’s castle is one

of Japan’s finest fortresses, and volcanic Aso is the world’s largest caldera.

Saga Prefecture boasts three legendary pottery centres. Steam pours from the

earth in Unzen and Beppu, Miyazaki’s Nichinan coast boasts vistas,

monkeys and Japan’s best surfing, while Kagoshima, heart of the Meiji

Restoration, smoulders with active volcanoes. Peppered throughout are hot-

spring towns, trekking trails and family-friendly fun.

When to Go

Apr & May Temperate weather and blooming azaleas on the volcanic

slopes.

Jul & Aug Beat the night-time heat at tempting yatai (food stalls) in

Fukuoka.

Oct & Nov Pleasant temperatures bring energetic festivals, such as

Nagasaki’s Kunchi Matsuri.

Best Places to Eat

A Hakatarou

A Tōsenkyō Sōmen Nagashi

A Kawashima Tōfu

A Shippoku Hamakatsu

A Takamori Dengaku-no-Sato

Best Places to Stay

A Kyūshū Hotel

A Yōyōkaku

A Aoshima Fisherman’s Beachside Hostel & Spa

A WeBase Hakata

A Yufu-no-Oyado Hotaru

Kyūshū Highlights

1 Fukuoka Joining night owls for beer and ramen at a yatai (food stall).

2 Nagasaki Being moved by stories of early European traders and

WWII tragedy.

3 Hirado Exploring this remote island’s unique history and charm.

4 Ibusuki Getting buried in warm volcanic sand in this hot-spring

resort.

5 Kurokawa Onsen Recharging in a riverside rotemburo.

6 Gunkanjima Touring the deserted ‘ghost island’ (aka Hashima).

7 Pottery towns Marvelling at ceramic traditions in Arita, Imari and

Karatsu.

8 Takachiho Gorge Rowing amid waterfalls (and hungry ducks).

9 Kumamoto-jō Gazing in awe at this earthquake-damaged, yet still

impressive, castle.

a Nichinan Coast Surfing local breaks along the coast.

b Kagoshima Sipping sweet-potato shōchū as the Sakurajima volcano

billows ash across the bay.

c Beppu Soaking in onsen from the brash to the secluded.

History

Excavations dating to around 10,000 BC indicate that southern Kyūshū was

the likely entry point of the Jōmon culture, which gradually crept north.

Japan’s trade with China and Korea began in Kyūshū, and the arrival of

Portuguese ships in 1543 was the start of Japan’s at-times-thorny

relationship with Europe and brought on its ‘Christian Century’ (1549–

1650). With Christianity, the Portuguese also brought gunpowder weaponry,

heralding the decline of the samurai tradition. During Japan’s two-centuries-

long period of national isolation beginning in the 1640s, an artificial island

in Nagasaki Bay was the country’s only point of contact with the outside

world.

In 1868 rebels from Kyūshū were instrumental in carrying through the

Meiji Restoration, ending the military shogunate and marking the birth of

modern Japan. During the ensuing Meiji era (1868–1912), rapid

industrialisation caused profound social, political and environmental change.

Sadly, this historically rich region is best known for one event: the 9

August 1945 atomic bombing of Nagasaki.

8 Getting There & Away

Fukuoka Airport is Japan’s fourth busiest, servicing destinations in Japan

and elsewhere in Asia. In addition to domestic connections, Kagoshima,

Kumamoto, Miyazaki, Nagasaki and Ōita (closest airport to Beppu) airports

all have flights to Seoul. Kagoshima and Nagasaki airports serve Shanghai

directly, and flights connect Kagoshima and Hong Kong. Miyazaki serves

Hong Kong and Taipei, but not always daily.

The Kyūshū shinkansen (bullet train) links Shin-Osaka to Kagoshima, via

Hakata Station (Fukuoka) and Kumamoto.

There are sea connections to Kyūshū from Osaka and Okinawa. High-

speed ferries shuttle between Fukuoka and Busan (South Korea).

8 Getting Around

Besides the shinkansen, which runs north–south through western Kyūshū,

tokkyū (limited express) train services connect other major Kyūshū cities.

Kyūshū’s extensive highway bus system is often the most efficient and

cheapest way around the island. See www.atbus-de.com for routes and

reservations.

Outside the cities, a rental car is the best way to reach many of the best-

preserved and least-known landscapes, particularly in rural southern and

northeastern Kyūshū and around Aso-san. Rental agencies are located all

over Kyūshū.

DISCOUNT BUS PASSES

There are discounted all-you-can-ride passes on JR Kyūshū and Kyūshū buses, from

¥8000/10,000 for three days in northern Kyūshū/all of Kyūshū, or a four-day all-Kyūshū Pass

for ¥14,000. For further information visit www.sunqpass.jp.

FUKUOKA & AROUND

Fukuoka, on the northwest coast, is Kyūshū at its most urbane – and a

rollicking good time. From there, to the west, the land breaks apart into

numerous fingers and inlets. Here are the pottery towns of Karatsu, Imari

and Arita. All the way to the west is Hirado, a small island that’s big on

history.

Fukuoka 福岡

%092 / POP 1.38 MILLION

Sunny, friendly Fukuoka (福岡) is Kyūshū’s largest city and Japan’s eighth-

largest population centre. It’s made up of two former towns: the castle town

of Fukuoka on the west bank of the Naka-gawa and the merchant town of

Hakata on the east bank. Although the two towns merged in 1889 as

Fukuoka, the name Hakata is still widely in use (for instance, it’s Fukuoka

Airport but Hakata Station) and a cultural touchpoint.

Hakata traces its trading history back some 2000 years, and this tradition

continues today with visitors from Seoul and Shanghai. Among Japanese the

city is famed for its SoftBank Hawks baseball team and hearty Hakata

ramen.

Fukuoka’s welcoming feel makes it a great gateway to Kyūshū, and warm

weather and contemporary attractions – art, architecture, shopping and

cuisine – make it a good base for regional excursions.

Central Fukuoka

1 Top Sights

1 Fukuoka Asian Art Museum

D1

2 Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan

E2

1 Sights

3 ACROS Fukuoka

C2

4 Hakata Local History Museum

E2

5 Kushida-jinja

E2

6 Shōfuku-ji

F1

4 Sleeping

7 Grand Hyatt Fukuoka

E3

8 Kashima Honkan

F1

9 Plaza Hotel Premier

B3

10 The Life

E2

11 WeBase Hakata

E1

12 With the Style

G4

5 Eating

13 Fish Man

C4

14 Ganso Hakata Mentaijū

D2

15 Hakatarou

B4

16 Ichiran

D2

17 Ippudō

B3

18 Rāmen Jinanbō

F2

19 Rāmen Stadium

E3

20 Umeyama Teppei Shokudō

D4

6 Drinking & Nightlife

21 Citadel

A4

22 Fukuoka Craft

B3

23 Morris’ Black Sheep

B3

24 Morris’ Red Fox

B3

25 Stereo Coffee

D4

7 Shopping

26 Canal City

E3

Hakata Japan

(see 1)

Hakata Riverain

(see 1)

Okano Hakata Riverain

(see 1)

8 Information

27 Hakata Station General Information Center

G3

28 Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Center Tourist Information

C3

29 Rainbow Plaza

C3

8 Transport

30 Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre

G2

31 Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Terminal

C3

1 Sights

For visitors, Fukuoka can be divided into three main districts. Hakata, the

old shitamachi (downtown), is now dominated by Fukuoka’s shinkansen

(bullet train) stop, the busy JR Hakata Station, within striking distance of

several traditional shrines, temples, gardens and museums. Three subway

stops away and across the Naka-gawa is Fukuoka’s beating heart, the Tenjin

district, bursting with department stores, boutiques, eateries and nightlife.

Above ground, Tenjin centres on Watanabe-dōri, paralleled underground by

Tenjin Chikagai, a long shopping arcade with mood lighting and cast-

ironwork ceilings that make it a cool refuge from the summer heat. West of

Tenjin is trendy Daimyō, Fukuoka’s homage to Tokyo’s Harajuku, minus the

crowds, heading toward Fukuoka’s former castle grounds.

Fukuoka | PANG_OASIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Fukuoka Asian Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 福岡アジア美術館; %092-263-1100; http://faam.city.fukuoka.lg.jp; 7th & 8th fl, Hakata Riverain, 3-1 Shimo-Kawabata-machi; adult/student ¥200/150; h10am-8pm Thu-Tue; bNakasu-Kawabata)

On the upper floors of the Hakata Riverain mall, this large museum houses

the world-renowned Asia Gallery, and additional galleries for special

exhibitions (admission fee varies) and artists in residence. Changing exhibits

show contemporary works from 23 countries, from East Asia to Pakistan.

o Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 博多町家ふるさと館, Hakata Machiya Folk Museum; %092-281-7761; www.hakatamachiya.com; 6-10 Reisen-machi; ¥200; h10am-6pm; bGion)

Spread over three machiya (traditional Japanese townhouses), this folk

museum recreates a Hakata nagare (neighbourhood unit) from the late Meiji

era. Inside the replica buildings, artisans are frequently on hand offering

demonstrations of local crafts, and galleries show historical photographs and

displays of traditional Hakata culture (festivals, crafts and performing arts),

as well as recordings (more like lessons) of the impenetrable Hakata-ben

dialect. The gift shop has an interesting selection of traditional toys and

reasonably priced crafts.

Kushida-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 櫛田神社; %092-291-2951; 1-41 Kami-kawabata; h8am-6pm; bGion or Nakasu-Kawabata) F

The intimate Kushida-jinja, municipal Shintō shrine of Hakata, traces its

history to AD 757 and sponsors the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Matsuri, in

which storeys-high floats make their way through the streets. There’s a float

visible outside that’s well worth a gawk. A one-room local-history museum

(博多歴史館; 1-41 Kami-kawabata; ¥300; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bGion or Nakasu-Kawabata)

has many displays about the festival, as well as swords, ancient pottery and

more.

Ōhori-kōen Japanese Garden

GARDENS

(大濠公園日本庭園, Ōhori-kōen Nihon-teien; %092-741-8377; 1-7 Ōhori-kōen; adult/child

¥240/120; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May; bŌhori-kōen)

Set within the expansive grounds of Ōhori-kōen, adjacent to the remains of

Fukuoka’s once-grand castle, this traditional (though constructed in 1984)

12,000-sq-metre Japanese garden boasts a beautiful main pond, streams and

a waterfall, a dry garden and a traditional teahouse, all within a border of

whitewashed traditional walls. The design is by one of Japan’s most famous

20th-century garden masters, Nakane Kinsaku, whose other works include

the gardens at Kyoto’s Nijo-jō and the Adachi Museum in Shimane-ken.

Shōfuku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 聖福寺; 6-1 Gokushō-machi; h24hr; bGion) F

Shōfuku-ji is considered the oldest Zen temple in Japan, founded in 1195 by

Eisai, who introduced Zen and tea to Japan; the nation’s first tea plants are

also said to have been planted here. Although its buildings are closed to the

public, tree-lined stone paths make a nice ramble.

Fukuoka City Museum

MUSEUM

(福岡市博物館; http://museum.city.fukuoka.jp; 3-1-1 Momochi-hama; ¥200; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; bNishijin)

This smart museum displays artefacts from local history and culture. The

pride of the collection is an ancient 2.3-sq-cm, 108g golden seal with an

inscription proving Japan’s historic ties to China.

z Festivals & Events

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Matsuri

CULTURAL

(博多祇園山笠祭; h1-15 Jul)

The city’s main festival is held in July, climaxing at 4.59am on the 15th,

when seven groups of men converge at Kushida-jinja to race along a 5km-

long course carrying huge portable shrines called yamakasa. According to

legend, the festival originated after a 13th-century Buddhist priest was

carried aloft, sprinkling holy water over victims of a plague.

4 Sleeping

Stay near JR Hakata Station for convenience if railing around, although

Tenjin is a better bet if you plan to spend a few days shopping and bar-

hopping.

o WeBase Hakata

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-292-2322; www.we-base.jp; 5-9 Tenyamachi; dm/s/d/q

¥3240/9720/8640/17,280; naW; bNakasu-Kawabata)

The 3m-tall sculpture of a cat in a diving suit standing guard outside is your

first clue that this place is not like the others. Spanking-new, 164-bed, nine-

storey WeBase pays tribute to Hakata’s shipping history with clever nautical

motifs throughout, and it calls the minimalist private rooms ‘cabins’. The

up-to-date bunk beds have built-in reading lamps and electrical outlets.

No meals are served, but the top-floor lounge has a kitchen, in addition to

an extensive library and rooftop access.

The Life

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザライフホステル; %092-292-1070; www.thelife-hostel.com; 8-13

Gionmachi; dm/d from ¥2800/9000; naiW; bNakasu-Kawabata)

The Life has a super-central location between Hakata Station and Canal City

(and a soon-to-open subway stop), making this 130-bed hostel an easy base

for exploring the city. Add post-industrial decor (exposed brick, concrete and

ductwork) and a cool bar-restaurant with cheap happy hours, and it’s a

winning combination at a reasonable price. Check-in is 4pm to 10pm.

o Kashima Honkan

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鹿島本館; %092-291-0746; 3-11 Reisen-machi; without bathroom s/d Sun-Thu ¥5500/7400, Fri & Sat ¥7000/12,000; naW; bGion)

This charmingly creaky, unpretentious Taishō-era ryokan is a historic

landmark, pleasantly faded and focused on a small garden with a stone

lantern. All that, tatami rooms and a sampling of knick-knacks make it a

great place to sample traditional Japan. The friendly owners communicate

well in English. Japanese breakfasts are available for ¥864.

Plaza Hotel Premier

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; プラザホテルプルミエ; %092-734-7600; www.plaza-hotel.net; 1-14-13 Daimyō; s/d/tw from ¥8100/13,500/15,500; pnaiW; bTenjin or Akasaka)

Location, location and location are reasons enough to stay here in trendy

Daimyō, and this hotel gives you easy access from business-hotel-size rooms

that rival those at far pricier properties. The busy, fashionable street vibe is

reflected in the hotel’s bistro, which serves moules frites (mussels and fries)

and pizzas and would be at home on a Paris sidewalk.

o With the Style

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ウィズザスタイル福岡; %092-433-3900; www.withthestyle.com; 1-

9-18 Hakataeki-minami; r incl breakfast from ¥45,000; naiW; dHakata)

It’s anyone’s guess what the name means, but ‘style’ is indeed the byword at

this sleek designer hotel. You could easily imagine yourself poolside in

Hollywood around the fountain courtyard. Each of the 16 rooms exude rock-

star cool, all include breakfast, minibar and welcome drinks, and guests can

reserve complimentary private use of the rooftop spa or penthouse bar.

Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(ヒルトン福岡シーホーク; %092-844-8111; www.hilton.com; 2-2-3 Jigyohama; s/d/tw

from ¥15,000/15,000/16,000; pnaiWs)

If you want to make an impression, you can hardly do better anywhere else

in Japan. The lobby restaurant of this César Pelli–designed hotel soars like

its namesake bird, and at 1052 rooms, it’s Asia’s largest Hilton. From the

right room, you can watch the baseball game at the Yafuoku Dome next

door.

5 Eating

Fukuokans and non-Fukuokans alike salivate at the mention of Hakata

ramen. The distinctive local version of these ubiquitous noodles is called

tonkotsu rāmen, served in a hearty broth made from pork bones stewed for a

day or more. Ichiran and Ippudō are two local shops that have spawned

national chains.

For a quick bite, try the restaurants on the 9th and 10th floors of JR

Hakata City (the Hakata Station building) or the depachika (food hall) in the

basements of Hankyu or Amu, nearby.

o Ippudō

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-771-0880; www.multilingual.ippudo.com; 1-13-14 Daimyō; ramen

¥790-1080; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-10pm Sat & Sun; bTenjin, dTenjin)

Fukuoka’s most famous ramen chain has efficient and always bustling

branches in Tenjin, serving the best-selling Akamaru Modern (with black-

sesame oil and a fragrant umami-dama, or flavour ball), Shiromaru Classic

(with thin noodles) and Karaka (spicy ramen). This branch, Daimyō Honten,

is the original, off Tenjin-nishi-dōri; there’s another branch on the 10th floor

of JR Hakata City shopping centre.

o Ichiran

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一蘭; %092-262-0433; www.ichiran.co.jp; 5-3-2 Nakasu; ramen ¥790-1200;

h24hr; bNakasu-Kawabata, dTenjin)

This Fukuoka-born chain (since 1993) has a nationwide following. That’s as

much for its serving style as for its fresh noodles and 15-second kitchen-to-

table rule. Customers fill out forms (available in English) requesting

precisely how they want their noodles prepared: flavour strength, fat content,

noodle tenderness, amount of special sauce and garlic, and eat at individual

cubicles for zero distractions.

The corporate office/main location in Nakasu has two storeys: the upper

floor has the signature individual booths, while the ground floor is more

traditional, with sit-down tables and a bar. Look for the bright green-and-red

awning.

Umeyama Teppei Shokudō

SHOKUDO

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 梅山鉄平食堂; %092-726-6119; 3-1-16 Watanabe-dōri; teishoku ¥730-1880; h11.30am-3.30pm & 5-10.30pm Mon, Thu, Fri & Sat, 11.30am-3.30pm & 5-9.30pm Tue,

11am-10.30pm Sun; bWatanabe-dōri)

A humble-chic shokudō (everyday restaurant) run by some clever gourmets.

The emphasis on fresh local ingredients means that the menu changes

frequently; pictures and English-speaking staff can help you with ordering.

Pretty much everyone orders teishoku (set meals) featuring fish like saba

(mackerel) cooked in mirin (sweet rice wine) or the typically Fukuoka

goma-saba (sashimi-style tossed with sesame).

There’s no English sign, but look for the decorative saba (mackerel)

hanging outside the door, just east of Watanabe-dōri.

Rāmen Stadium

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ラーメンスタジアム; %092-282-2525; 5th fl, Canal City; ramen

¥550-1290; h11am-11pm)

An entire floor of ramen outlets, with eight vendors imported from the

length and breadth of Japan, including five from Fukuoka, such as Jinanbō

(二男坊), serving the classic tonkotsu rāmen. In the mood for something

unusual? Try the tomato ramen at Sanmi (三味); it’s like ramen in tomato

soup.

Take the escalator from the 4th floor.

o Hakatarou

JAPANESE, IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 博多廊; %092-687-5656; 5th fl, SouthSide Terrace Bldg, 1-1-38 Daimyō; most dishes ¥370-1800, 9-dish menus from ¥5000; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri

& Sat; bTenjin or Tenjinminami)

If you can’t visit the rest of Kyūshū, try regional foods at this elegant

izakaya. Look for dishes like karashi renkon (spicy, deep-fried lotus root)

and basashi (horsemeat sashimi) from Kumamoto, grilled Shimabara

chicken, Kagoshima kurobuta (black pork), and Hakata ramen salad and

mizutaki and gameni chicken stews, plus a huge selection of Kyūshū sake

and shōchū (strong distilled liquor).

Fish Man

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 魚男フィッシュマン, Sakana Otoko; %092-717-3571; 1-4-23

Imaizumi; set meals ¥680-1500; h11.30am-1am; bYakuin)

Fish Man’s postindustrial vibe features lacquered plywood and big windows,

which show off the unconventional presentations of seafood fresh from the

Nagahama market across town: kaidan-zushi (sushi served on a wooden

spiral staircase), tsubotai no misoyaki (miso-grilled snapper) or a shrimp

hamburg steak. The varied menu also covers donburi (rice bowls), tempura,

and even meat and veg dishes.

Ganso Hakata Mentaijū

SEAFOOD

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 元祖博多めんたい重; %092-725-7220; www.mentaiju.com; 6-15

Nishi-Nakasu; mentaiju from ¥1680, set menus from ¥3380; h7am-10.30pm; bNakasu-Kawabata or

Tenjin)

Behind a geometric lattice facade, this shop specialises in mentaijū –

mentaiko (spicy cod roe, a Fukuoka delicacy), wrapped with savoury kelp

and served over rice and flaked seaweed in a wooden box. Pick up a tag at

the entrance to choose your spice level. Set menus with seafood tsukemen

(ramen noodles served with dipping sauce) are intense and satisfying.

DON’T MISS

FUKUOKA’S FOOD CARTS

The Fukuoka way to eat is at yatai (屋台), mobile hawker-style food carts with simple kitchens

surrounded by counters and seats; Fukuoka claims about 150 yatai, more than in the rest of

Japan combined! Let the aromas and chatty conversation lead you to the best cooking and the

best companions. The Tenjin and Nagahama neighbourhoods have the highest concentration,

along pavements and canals. Get there early, as most seats are soon taken. (Note that if you talk

too much without ordering enough you’ll be asked to move on.)

6 Drinking & Nightlife

The weekend starts on Thursday in multicultural, party-friendly Fukuoka.

The streets of Tenjin and Daimyō are safe, easy to explore and great for

people-watching. The main drag, Oyafuko-dōri, roughly translates to ‘street

of unruly children’ because of the cram schools that once lined it. In a way,

the cap still fits.

Nakasu Island, while one of Japan’s busiest entertainment districts, is

often sleazy.

o Citadel

COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; シタデル; %092-688-4190; www.facebook.com/citadeldaimyo; 2nd fl, 1-8-40 Daimyō; h5pm-3am; bAkasaka)

At this classy upstairs bar, mellow out over coffee cocktails such as mojitos

(with homemade coffee rum and coffee ice cubes) and espresso martinis.

Liqueurs macerating on shelves above the bar lend a mad-scientist’s-lab vibe

(ginger gin, anyone?), yet it’s not above serving more conventional drinks,

plus tasty snacks.

Fukuoka Craft

BREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; フクオカクラフトブルワリー; %092-791-1494; 1-11-4 Daimyō; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, 3pm-2am Sat & Sun; bAkasaka)

This beer bar, opened in 2017, brews its own creations and offers dozens of

other beers from around the world, along with eats like mixed grill and

Mexican dishes. The intimate wood-and-brick space opens onto a Daimyō

side street for great people-watching.

Stereo Coffee

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ステレオコーヒー; %092-231-8854; 3-8-3 Watanabe-dōri; h8am-10pm; bWatanabe-dōri)

This artful, art-filled cafe draws a hip, creative crowd for tasty espresso

drinks, hot sandwiches and seasonal special drinks such as floats for

summer. There are no seats – all the better to peruse the art on the walls of

the loft-like gallery spaces upstairs and down, while cool beats play in the

background.

Morris’ Black Sheep

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; モーリスブラックシープ; %092-725-8773; 2-1-20 Daimyō; h5pm-1am; bAkasaka)

This Morris bar is just down the street from its Red Fox (モーリスレッド

フォックス; %092-771-4774; 7th fl, Stage 1 Nishidōri Bldg, 2-1-4 Daimyō; h5pm-1am;

bTenjin) F cousin. It’s often packed, loud and fun, and may open even later on

Friday and Saturday nights, depending on numbers. A generous patio opens

onto the street, and pub grub includes pizza and fish and chips.

3 Entertainment

Kyūshū Bashō Sumo Tournament

SPECTATOR SPORT

(www.sumo.or.jp; hmid-late Nov)

Held for two weeks at the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre (福岡国際センター;

%092-272-1111; www.marinemesse.or.jp; 2-2 Chikkohon-chō; g88 or 99 to Fukuoka Convention Centre, bGofukumachi). The main ticket sale is in October, and spectators start

lining up at dawn for limited same-day tickets ( tōjitsu-ken; ¥3400 to

¥15,000).

Fukuoka Yafuoku! Dome

LIVE SPORTS

(福岡ヤフオク！ドーム; %092-847-1006; www.softbankhawks.co.jp; 2-2-2 Jigyohama;

tours ¥1500; htours hourly 10am-4pm; bTojin-machi)

This monolithic, retractable-roof stadium is the home field of Fukuoka’s

much-loved SoftBank Hawks baseball team. Tours (in Japanese) are offered

and there’s a museum of the life of Oh Sadaharu, the world’s all-time home-

run king (best for die-hard fans).

7 Shopping

Hakata Japan

CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ハカタジャパン; %092-263-1112; 1st fl, Hakata Riverain, 301 Shimo-Kawabata-machi; h10.30am-7.30pm; bNakasu-Kawabata)

Hakata is renowned for it weaving tradition, called Hakata-ori, and this chic

shop, to the right as you enter Hakata Riverain mall, has been producing

intricately woven Hakata-ori for generations. Originally supplying obi

(kimono sashes), it now puts the fabrics to more modern uses including

accessories. It also sells used kimono (not Hakata-ori) – still expensive but a

fraction of the cost of a new one.

Canal City

SHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; キャナルシティ; www.canalcity.co.jp; 1-2 Sumiyoshi; hshops 10am-9pm, restaurants 11am-11pm)

Canal City is Fukuoka’s biggest mall, boasting an eponymous artificial canal

with illuminated fountain symphony, a multiplex cinema, a playhouse and

about 250 boutiques (large tenants include Muji, H&M, Uniqlo and Sanrio),

the Grand Hyatt (グランドハイアット福岡; %092-282-1234;

www.fukuoka.grand.hyatt.com; 1-2-82 Sumiyoshi; s/d/tw from ¥39,000/45,000/51,000; pnaiWs)

and other hotels, bars and bistros, game arcades and Ramen Stadium. It was

designed by Jon Jerde, who later created Tokyo’s Roppongi Hills.

Hakata Riverain

MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 博多リバレイン; %092-282-1300; www.riverain.co.jp; 3-1 Shimo-kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku; bNakasu-Kawabata)

Modern, multistorey mall with some 70 shops for fashion, homewares and

design, plus restaurants and cafes. The Fukuoka Asian Art Museum is on the

top floors.

Okano Hakata Riverain

CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; OKANO 博多リバレイン店; %092-283-8111; www.okano1897.jp; B1

fl, Hakata Riverain, 3-1 Shimo-Kawabata-machi; h10.30am-7.30pm; bNakasu-Kawabata)

This elegant shop offers obi, kimonos and accessories from business-card

holders to handbags in the distinctive Hakata-ori style. None of it is cheap

(silk obi start at around ¥10,000), but it’s meant to last generations.

8 Information

INTERNET ACCESS

Fukuoka has free public wi-fi at city hall, major train and subway stations,

the airport, touristinformation centres and in the Tenjin Chikagai

(underground arcade).

MEDICAL SERVICES

International Clinic Tojin-machi (%092-717-1000; www.internationalclinic.org; 1-4-6

Jigyo; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; bTōjin-machi, exit 1)

Multilingual clinic for general medical services and emergencies. It’s two

blocks from Tojin-machi subway station.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Fukuoka City Tourist Information Counters (福岡市観光案内所) at

Fukuoka Airport, Hakata Station (福岡市観光案内所JR博多駅支店; %092-

431-3003; h8am-9pm) and Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Center (福岡市観光案内所天

神支店; %092-751-6904; h10am-6.30pm) dispense maps, coupons and the helpful

City Visitor’s Guide, and can help with lodging, transport and car-rental

information. Information centres at ACROS Fukuoka ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ア

クロス福岡; %092-725-9100; www.acros.or.jp; ACROS Bldg, 1-1-1 Tenjin; h10am-6pm;

bNakasu-Kawabata or Tenjin) and Rainbow Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レインボー

プラザ; %092-733-2220; www.rainbowfia.or.jp; 8F, IMS Bldg, 1-7-11 Tenjin; h10am-8pm, closed 3rd Tue of month; W) are targeted mostly at foreign residents.

Fukuoka Now (www.fukuoka-now.com) is an indispensable monthly

English-language street mag with detailed city maps.

Yokanavi.com (www.yokanavi.com) is a comprehensive Fukuoka/Hakata

tourist-information site.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Fukuoka Airport (福岡空港, FUK; %domestic terminal 092-621-6059, international

terminal 092-621-0303; www.fuk-ab.co.jp; hdomestic 6.20am-10.20pm, international 7am-9.30pm; bFukuoka Airport) is well connected, offering dozens of domestic routes

including Tokyo (from Haneda/Narita airports), Osaka and Okinawa (Naha),

and international routes serving East and Southeast Asia.

In addition to ANA and Japan Airlines with their numerous domestic and

international connections, domestic airline StarFlyer (www.starflyer.jp)

connects Fukuoka with Tokyo Haneda and Nagoya, and Skymark (%Tokyo

0570-051-330; www.skymark.co.jp) flies to Haneda.

From the airport, the subway takes just five minutes to reach JR Hakata

Station (¥260) and 11 minutes to Tenjin (¥260). Shuttle buses connect

domestic and international terminals.

Taxis cost around ¥1600 to Tenjin/Hakata.

BOAT

Ferries from Hakata connect to Okinawa and other islands off Kyūshū.

Beetle (%Japan 092-281-2315, Korea 051-469-0778; www.jrbeetle.co.jp) high-speed hydrofoils connect Fukuoka with Busan in Korea (one way/return

¥13,000/26,000, three hours, twice daily). The Camellia line (%in Japan 092-262-

2323, in Korea 051-466-7799; www.camellia-line.co.jp) has a regular ferry service from Fukuoka to Busan (one way/return from ¥6200/12,500, 5½ hours, daily at

12.30pm). Both ships dock at Hakata Port International Terminal (博多

港国際ターミナル; %092-282-4871; www.hakataport.com) – reach it via bus 88 from

JR Hakata Station (¥230) or bus 80 from Tenjin (Solaria Stage-mae; ¥190).

BUS

Long-distance buses (%ask operator for English interpreter 0570-00-1010) depart from

the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 福岡交通センター) next to JR Hakata Station (Hakata-gate) and also from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus

Terminal ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 西鉄天神バスセンター). Destinations include Tokyo (economy/business ¥8300/12,000, 14½ hours), Osaka (from ¥8800,

10½ hours), Nagoya (¥7500, 11 hours) and many towns in Kyūshū; ask

about discounted round-trip fares.

TRAIN

JR Hakata Station (JR博多駅; %092-471-8111, English info line 03-3423-0111) is a hub

in northern Kyūshū and the terminus of shinkansen (bullet trains) to/from

Tokyo (¥21,810, five hours). Other shinkansen connect with Shin-Osaka

(¥14,480, 2½ hours), Hiroshima (¥8420, 62 minutes), Kumamoto (¥4610, 37

minutes) and Kagoshima-Chūō (¥9930, 84 minutes).

Within Kyūshū, non- shinkansen trains run on the JR Nippō line through

Beppu to Miyazaki; the Sasebo line runs from Saga to Sasebo; and the

Nagasaki line runs to Nagasaki. You can also travel by subway and JR train

to Karatsu and continue to Nagasaki by train.

8 Getting Around

Fukuoka has three subway lines (http://subway.city.fukuoka.lg.jp; open from

5.30am to 12.25am), of which visitors will find the Kūkō (Airport) line most

useful, running from Fukuoka Airport to Meinohama Station via Hakata,

Nakasu-Kawabata and Tenjin stations. Fares start at ¥200; a one-day pass

costs ¥620/310 per adult/child.

City bus services operate from the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre, adjacent to JR

Hakata Station, and from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Terminal. Many stop in

front of the station (Hakata-guchi). Specially marked buses have a flat ¥100

rate for city-centre rides; one-day passes cost ¥900.

FUKUOKA TOURIST CITY PASS

In addition to regular bus and subway passes, overseas visitors can purchase the Fukuoka

Tourist City Pass. It costs ¥820/410 per adult/child and covers buses and subways within the

city, though not Nishitetsu trains. Present it for discounted admission at attractions throughout

town. For ¥1340/670 the pass also covers Dazaifu. Purchase at major stations, bus terminals

and information counters. Passport required.

Dazaifu 太宰府

%092 / POP 71,787

Dazaifu (太宰府), former governmental centre of Kyūshū, has a beautiful

cluster of temples, a famous shrine and a striking national museum, making

for a popular day trip from Fukuoka.

1 Sights

o Kyūshū National Museum

MUSEUM

(九州国立博物館; %092-918-2807; www.kyuhaku.com; 4-7-2 Ishizaka; adult/student ¥430/130,

additional charge for special exhibits; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Fri & Sat)

Built into the tranquil eastern hills of Dazaifu and reached through more

escalators than can be found at the average airport, this striking structure

(built 2005) resembles a massive space station and chronicles the cultural

flow between Asia and Kyūshū (and, by extension, the rest of Japan). The

permanent, 1500-sq-metre ‘Cultural Exchange Exhibition’ on the 4th floor

includes priceless pieces from across the continent; English signage and an

audioguide help illuminate it all. A must-visit for architecture and history

buffs.

o Dazaifu Tenman-gū

SHINTO SHRINE

(太宰府天満宮; www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp; 4-7-1 Saifu; h6.30am-7pm) F

Among the countless visitors to the grand, sprawling Tenman-gū – shrine

and burial place of poet-scholar Tenman Tenjin – are students making

offerings and buying amulets in hopes of passing college entrance exams.

The hondō (main hall) was rebuilt in 1591. Behind the shrine is the

Kankō Historical Museum (菅公歴史資料館; %092-922-8225; ¥200; h9am-4.30pm

Thu-Mon), with dioramas showing Tenjin’s life (an English leaflet provides

explanations). Across the grounds, the Dazaifu Tenman-gū Museum (太宰

府天満宮宝物殿; ¥400; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) has artefacts from his life,

including some excellent swords.

WORTH A TRIP

TACHIARAI

From 1919 to 1945, the isolated farm village of Tachiarai (大刀洗) hosted a training school for

Japanese fighter pilots, including some on kamikaze suicide missions. Expanded in 2009,

Tachiarai Heiwa Kinenkan (大刀洗平和記念館, Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum; %0946-

23-1227; www.tachiarai-heiwa.jp; 2561-1 Takata, Chikuzen-machi; ¥500; h9am-5pm; p; dAmagi Railway to Tachiarai) shows the rigorous training these men endured. English signage

is basic, but the museum’s artefacts (uniforms, medals, gold-plated sake cups etc) are evocative.

The centrepiece is a jet fighter shot down during the war and recovered from Hakata Bay in

1996. The museum also memorialises kamikaze pilots and townspeople who died during a

USAF B-29 bombing on 27 March 1945.

The museum is across from Tachiarai Station. From Fukuoka, take the Nishitetsu line to

Nishitetsu Ogōri (¥510, 30 minutes); from Dazaifu (¥340) it takes 25 minutes plus transfer time

at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi. Then walk to Ogōri Station on the Amagi Railway for the trip to

Tachiarai (¥290, 15 minutes). JR passengers can transfer to the Amagi Railway at Kiyama

(¥340, 20 minutes).

5 Eating

Ume (Japanese pickled plum) is a local speciality due to its association with

distinguished poet-scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane. Dozens of shops up and

down Tenjinsama-dōri, the main street to the shrine, serve umegaemochi

(sweet-bean-paste-filled cakes with plum-branch insignia), symbolising the

branch of blossoms given to Sugawara to ‘cheer him up’ during his Dazaifu

exile.

Saifu Udon

NOODLES

¥

(さいふうどん; %092-922-0573; http://kimurasaifuudon.wixsite.com/saifuudon; 3-4-31 Saifu;

h11am-4pm Wed-Mon; dNishitetsu Dazaifu)

In business since 1948, the Kimura family makes such sought-after udon

noodles that this tiny eight-seat shop closes whenever it runs out. Arrive

early or prepare to wait. The reward is a bowl of broth and noodles that are

as fresh and tasty as handmade food can be. If it’s warm, additional outdoor

seating is opened up.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (太宰府市観光案内所; %092-925-1880; h9am-5pm)

Adjacent to Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station; has helpful staff and an English-

language map.

8 Getting There & Around

The private Nishitetsu train line connects Nishitetsu Fukuoka (in Tenjin)

with Dazaifu (¥400, 30 minutes). Direct trains are rare; mostly you’ll change

trains at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi Station. A bus to Dazaifu leaves from JR

Hakata station (¥600, 40 minutes) and Fukuoka Airport (¥500, 25 minutes).

Bicycles can be rented for ¥500 per day at Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station

(9am to 6pm). Electric bikes cost ¥800 per day.

TENMAN TENJIN

Poet-scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane (845–903 AD) was a distinguished Kyoto intellectual

until he fell out of favour with the imperial court and was exiled to distant Dazaifu, where he

died two years later. Shortly after his death, many disasters befell the imperial court, including

plague, drought, heavy storms, lightning strikes and untimely deaths in the imperial family.

Sugawara became deified as Tenman Tenjin (sometimes abbreviated ‘Tenjin’), god of culture

and scholars, and to calm his spirit, shrines around the country were built in his memory,

including the grand Dazaifu Tenman-gū. To this day, he remains Dazaifu’s most prominent

historical figure.

Karatsu 唐津

%0955 / POP 122,785

Karatsu (唐津) is at the base of the scenic Higashi-Matsuura Peninsula, an

ideal location for its historic pottery trade. Korean influences elevated the

town’s craft from useful ceramics to art.

Pottery fanatics will be in their element here as they view earth-toned

vases and tea bowls. Some pieces sell for more than a luxury car, but work

by junior artists can be more affordable. Other attractions include a hilltop

castle, historic buildings, a simple Shōwa-era town centre and a pretty

seaside cycling trail. Outside town, the coastline, pounded into shape by the

roiling Sea of Genkai, makes for dramatic vistas and pleasant day hikes.

The Nakamachi shopping area, near Karatsu Station, offers good

restaurants and souvenir shops, all within an easy stroll.

1 Sights

It’s about a 25-minute walk from JR Karatsu Station to the sea or the castle.

Ceramic shops are dotted around town, along with kilns and studios where

you can see local potters at work.

o Karatsu-jō

CASTLE

(唐津城; 8-1 Higashi-jōnai; adult/child ¥500/250, elevator one way ¥100/50; h9am-6pm Jul &

Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun; p)

Nicknamed Maizuru-jō (Dancing Crane Castle), this elegantly proportioned

white castle (built 1608, rebuilt 1966 and refurbished 2017) is picturesquely

perched on a hill overlooking the sea. Inside are antique ceramics, samurai

armour and archaeological displays, amid walls lined with Karatsu-yaki

(Karatsu pottery) tiles. Download the Karatsu Castle app to scan QR codes

for detailed English descriptions of select pieces. The climb up the hill can

be a slog, especially in muggy summer heat, but there’s a diagonal elevator.

Nakazato Tarōemon

MUSEUM

(中里太郎右衛門; %0955-72-8171; www.nakazato-tarouemon.com; 3-6-29 Chōda; h9am-

5.30pm Thu-Tue) F

Karatsu-yaki is defined by the work of 14 generations of the Nakazato

family. Walk through the shop, which feels like a museum unto itself, and

cross the wooden breezeway above a stream to see an exhibition of pieces by

some of the family’s recent generations. The shop is named for Nakazato

Tarōemon (1923–2009), who is said to be responsible for the revival of

Karatsu-yaki. Later, walk across the street to see the family’s historic kiln.

Kyū-Takatori-tei

HISTORIC BUILDING

(旧高取邸; 5-40 Kita-jōnai; adult/child ¥510/250; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This fabulously restored late–Meiji period villa of a local trader is built in a

mix of Japanese and Western styles, with lantern-filled gardens, a Buddhist

altar room, a wealth of paintings on cedar boards and an indoor nō (stylised

dance-drama) stage. English audioguide available (¥300).

4 Sleeping

Quiet Karatsu’s sleeping options are limited to business hotels and high-end

ryokan.

o Yōyōkaku

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(洋々閣; %0955-72-7181; www.yoyokaku.com; 2-4-40 Higashi-Karatsu; r per person incl 2 meals

from ¥21,600; paiW)

In a word: gorgeous. Also: rambling and minimalist, with 100-year-old

woodwork, a pine garden and Karatsu-yaki pottery for your in-room seafood

meals. Koi swim lazily in the immaculate 200-year-old garden. This

property is a real getaway, yet it’s less-than-10-minutes’ walk from the

castle. Even if you can’t stay here, visit the on-site gallery of Nakazato

family pottery.

Rates are based on two people per room. Discounts available for

accommodationonly plans.

5 Eating

Karatsu Bāgā

BURGERS

¥

(からつバーガー; %090-6299-0141; burgers ¥310-490; h9am-8pm)

In the middle of nowhere (in a parking lot) in Niji no Matsubara is a brown-

and-white Toyota serving burgers so famous people line up to buy them, and

have for decades. The ‘Special’ is the most popular: a steaming cheeseburger

topped with a fried egg and a ham slice. There’s also a branch in

Nakamachi (からつバーガー; %080-9101-6912; 1513-18 Nakamachi; burgers ¥340-460;

h9am-8pm; dKaratsu), near Karatsu Station.

o Kawashima Tōfu

TOFU

¥¥¥

(川島豆腐店; %0955-72-2423; www.zarudoufu.co.jp; Kyōmachi 1775; set meals lunch ¥1500-

2500, dinner ¥5000-13,000; h8am-10pm, meal seatings 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm & 5.30pm)

On Kyōmachi covered arcade near the station, this renowned tofu shop has

been in business since the Edo period and serves refined kaiseki, starring

tofu plus other seasonal specialities, around a 10-seat counter in its jewel

box of a back room. Soft, warm, fresh – this is tofu as good as it gets.

Reservations are essential for kaiseki, or stop by to taste a scoop of the

fresh, creamy tofu (called zarudōfu; top it with the lightest sprinkle of salt or

a drop of soy sauce) or a cup of tōnyū (soy milk) for ¥100, or try frozen tofu

‘soft cream’ for ¥300.

7 Shopping

Karatsu Ware Federation Exhibition Hall

GALLERY

(唐津焼総合展示場; %0955-73-4888; Arpino Bldg; h9am-6pm) F

Just outside Karatsu Station, this exhibition hall displays and sells local

potters’ work, with prices ranging from ¥500 to eye-watering. Potters have a

display area and many have (Japanese only) info.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (%0955-72-4963; 2935-1 Shinkomachi; h9am-6pm) Inside

JR Karatsu Station; has a selection of Englishlanguage tourist maps and

brochures, and some enthusiastic English-speaking staff who can book

accommodation or show points of interest on the map. It’s well worth

stopping here before heading into the town.

8 Getting There & Away

From Fukuoka, take the Kūkō (Airport) subway line to the western end of

the line at Meinohama. Many trains continue directly (or you may need to

switch) to the JR Chikuhi line to reach Karatsu (¥1140, 70 minutes). From

Karatsu to Nagasaki (¥3710, three hours), take the JR Karatsu line to Saga,

and the Kamome tokkyū on the JR Nagasaki line from there. Note that severe

winds and other weather may result in train cancellations.

From Karatsu’s Ōteguchi Bus Centre (大手口バスセンター; %0955-73-

7511), highway buses depart for Fukuoka (¥1030, 70 minutes) and Yobuko

(¥750, 30 minutes).

At the Arpino (アルピノ; %0955-75-5155; www.karatsu-arpino.com; 2881-1

Shinkomachi) building, next to the station, you can rent bicycles (free) with

your passport on the 1st floor; the station no longer rents bicycles.

WORTH A TRIP

YOBUKO MORNING MARKET

A colourful, daily morning market (朝市; %095-582-3426; Sasaichi-dōri, Yobuko; h7.30-

11am) for squid, fish and produce animates the quaint, dwindling fishing port of Yobuko (呼

子), drawing visitors from all over the region. Buses (¥750, 30 minutes) connect from Karatsu’s

Ōteguchi Bus Centre.

Imari 伊万里

%0955 / POP 54,900

You can tell you’re getting close to Imari (伊万里) by the blue-and-white

tiles that start appearing everywhere: street signs, bridge totems, even

crushed gravel has shards of Imari’s signature item. This famous pottery

town is best visited as a day trip from Karatsu. There are a few local eateries

near the station.

1 Sights

o Ōkawachiyama

VILLAGE

(大川内山)

The area’s renowned pottery kilns are concentrated in photogenic

Ōkawachiyama, a 15-minute bus ride from the station. Around 30

workshops and public galleries make for a lovely ramble uphill alongside

streams, cafes and a stunning bridge covered with local Imari-ware shards.

Arrive by noon to allow for exploring and shopping.

Ōkawachiyama | AJISAI13/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Imari City Ceramic Merchant’s Museum

MUSEUM

(伊万里市陶器商家資料館; %0955-22-7934; 1-1-59 Jōnai; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F

In Imari town near the river, this museum houses some priceless pieces of

Koimari (as old Imari ware is known) from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s

in the handsomely preserved home of a merchant family.

8 Information

Imari City Information (伊万里市観光協会; %0955-23-3479; h9am-6pm) Tourist

brochures are available from this outlet on the regional Matsuura-tetsudō

railway (MR), across the street from JR Imari Station.

8 Getting There & Around

Imari is connected to Karatsu (¥650, 50 minutes) by the JR Chikuhi line or

bus (¥1030, 60 minutes), and also to Arita by the private Matsuura-tetsudō

line (¥460, 25 minutes).

Five to six buses per day (¥170) make the trip to Ōkawachiyama.

Alternatively, the taxi fare is approximately ¥1800 each way.

KYŪSHŪ’S POTTERY TOWNS

In mountainous Kyūshū, many villages had difficulty growing rice and looked to other

industries to survive. Access to good clay, forests and streams made pottery-making a natural

choice, and a number of superb styles can be found here.

Karatsu, Arita and Imari are the major pottery towns of Saga Prefecture, on Kyūshū’s

northwestern coast. From the early 17th century, pottery was produced in this area by captive

Korean potters, experts who were zealously guarded so that neither the artists nor the secrets of

their craft could escape. When trade routes opened up to the West, potters in Japan began

imitating the highly decorative Chinese-style ware popular in Europe. Pottery styles are often

known by the town name with the suffix -yaki (pottery) added.

Arita Highly decorated porcelain, often with squares of blue, red, green or gold.

Imari Fine porcelain, originally blue and white, bursting into vibrant colours in the mid-Edo

period.

Karatsu Marked by subtle earthy tones, and prized for its use in the tea ceremony.

In southern Kyūshū, Kagoshima Prefecture is known for Satsuma-yaki (Satsuma is the feudal

name for that region). Styles vary from crackled glazes to porcelains painted with gleaming

gold, and rougher, more ponderous ‘black Satsuma’ ware.

Arita 有田

%0955 / POP 20,153

Kaolin clay was discovered in Arita (有田) in 1615 by Ri Sampei, a

naturalised Korean potter, enabling the manufacture of fine porcelain in

Japan for the first time. By the mid-17th century, the porcelain was being

exported to Europe.

Between the station and Kyūshū Ceramic Museum is the Yakimono

Sanpo-michi (Pottery Promenade) of around 16 galleries. The tourist office

has a map that’s in Japanese but easy enough to follow. Arita’s streets fill

with vendors for the pottery market, held from 29 April to 5 May.

Out of the town centre, two of Arita-yaki’s prime practitioners have been

at it for more than 14 generations. The Imaemon Gallery and Kakiemon Kiln

both have museums in addition to sales shops. Genemon Kiln (源右衛門窯;

%0955-42-4164; www.gen-emon.co.jp; 2726 Maruohe; hworkshop 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, shop 8am-5pm daily) makes and sells more contemporary styles.

About a 15-minute train ride east of Arita, the hot-spring town of Takeo

Onsen is a worthy side trip.

1 Sights

o Kyūshū Ceramic Museum

MUSEUM

(九州陶磁文化館; %095-543-3681; http://saga-museum.jp/ceramic; 3100-1 Toshaku-ōtsu;

h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) F

About 15 minutes on foot from Arita Station, this large, hilltop operation is

the most comprehensive ceramics museum in the region. The Shibata

Collection showcases the development and styles of Kyūshū’s many ceramic

arts, with excellent English signage. An entrance fee may be charged for

some special exhibits.

o Kouraku Kiln

FACTORY

(幸楽窯; %0955-42-4121; www.kouraku.jp.net; Marunohei 2512; h9am-8pm) This fascinating pottery factory has something for everyone: you can try

making simple pottery on the throwing wheel (your pieces can be fired and

mailed to you within Japan); you can stay here longer in a residency to learn

the craft (¥49,000/200,000 per week/month); or shoppers can go ‘treasure

hunting’ in the vast seconds warehouse and spend as much time filling a box

(¥5000) with whatever fits.

Imaemon Gallery

GALLERY

(今石衛門ギャラリー; %0955-42-5550; 2-1-11 Akaemachi; ¥300; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-

Sun)

It looks humble from the outside, but stunning works of art are on display in

the gallery of one of Japan’s Living National Treasures, the 14th generation

of his family to produce ceramics. The adjoining shop is open daily, even

when the gallery is closed.

The shop and gallery are about halfway between two stations: Arita

(1.8km) and Kami-Arita (1.1km).

Kakiemon Kiln

FACTORY

(柿右衛門窯; %0955-43-2267; 352 Nanzan; h9am-5pm) F

This workshop of the Sakaida family (artist name: Kakiemon) is one of

Arita’s top sights. Now in its 15th generation and featured in its own exhibit

at the British Museum in 2016, the family includes a Living National

Treasure. Creamy-white porcelain tableware, vases and urns from wood-

fired kilns are colourfully glazed with delicate images from nature.

Facilities include an exhibit space and a shop.

2 Activities

Takeo Onsen

ONSEN

(武雄温泉; %0954-23-2001; Moto-yu ¥400, Saginoyu ¥600, private baths per hour ¥3000-3800;

hMoto-yu & Sagino-yu 6.30am-midnight)

East of Arita, this hot-spring town has a 1300-year history and is said to

have refreshed the armies of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Its oldest existing bathing

building (Moto-yu; 1870) is a simple wooden hall with hot and very hot

pools separated by gender. Sagino-yu has more modern facilities: sauna,

rotemburo (outdoor baths) and kashikiri (private reservable baths), useful for

families and couples.

The town’s impressive lacquered Chinesestyle entrance gate, Sakura-mon,

was built without nails.

The bathing areas are a 15-minute walk west of Takeo Onsen Station’s

north exit. It’s a 16-minute ride from Arita Station (¥260), or you can pay

¥1100 for a tokkyū (Midori Huis Ten Bosch) and get there two minutes

faster.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There are a few nondescript hotels in central Arita. Takeo Onsen is a better

spot to overnight.

Takeo Onsen Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(武雄温泉ユースホステル; %0954-22-2490; www.e-yh.net/takeo; 16060-1 Nagashima; dm

HI member/nonmember ¥3400/4000; pnaiW)

This hostel has onsen, 14 rooms with sleeping space for 80, and a green-and-

orange exterior so bright it’s likely visible from space. The friendly owners

can pick you up from the station if you ring ahead to say you’ll be later than

the 4pm check-in. A couple of rental bikes are available (¥500 each).

Gallery Arita

CAFE

¥¥

(ギャラリー有田; %095-542-2952; Honmachi Ōtsu 3057; lunch set menu ¥950-1300, godōfu

set menu ¥1350, coffee from ¥450; h9am-7pm)

The walls of this gallery-cafe are lined with more than 2000 cup-and-saucer

sets from hundreds of Arita-yaki potters; choose your favourite set, and staff

can serve your drinks in them and sell them to you afterwards. Coffee is

brewed filter style, and lunch specials are a good deal; the house speciality is

godōfu (kudzu-starch tofu).

8 Information

Kiln Arita Tourist Information Desk (キルンアリタ観光案内所; %0955-42-

4052; www.arita.jp; 972-31 Honmachi-he; h9am-5pm) Staff at the city’s tourist

information office, near Arita Station, can assist with maps in English,

timetables, bicycle rentals and introductions to accommodation –

predominantly small private minshuku (guesthouses).

8 Getting There & Around

The private Matsuura-tetsudō line connects Arita with Imari (¥460, 25

minutes). JR tokkyū trains between Hakata (¥2750, 85 minutes) and Sasebo

(¥760, 30 minutes) stop at Arita and Takeo Onsen. JR trains connect Arita

and Takeo Onsen ( futsū/tokkyū ¥280/580, 20/15 minutes).

Infrequent community buses (¥200) cover most places, but you’ll save

time by taking taxis (about ¥1000 to most sights). Arita Station rents out

bicycles (¥500 to ¥1000 per day).

Hirado 平戸

%0950 / POP 32,000

Sweet, off-the-beaten-path Hirado (平戸) was once the spot where

foreigners visited Japan before sakoku (Japan’s national isolation period),

after which they were confined to Nagasaki’s Dejima Island. Secluded yet

lovely, with hills rising steeply from the sea, this island has many reminders

of early Western engagement, particularly of the Kakure Kirishitan (hidden

Christians) who lived in the region. It’s also a popular beach getaway and

has picturesque old streets, great seafood and beef, a castle and wonderful

museums.

As trains, then planes, surpassed ships as the main means of entry to

Japan, Hirado was all but forgotten, and now it takes some effort to get here;

the main village lies several kilometres from the nearest private, non-JR rail

line. It’s worth it.

Hirado | TOMO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 Sights

o Oranda Shōkan

HISTORIC BUILDING

(オランダ商館, Dutch Trading Post; %0950-26-0636; 2477 Ōkubo; ¥300; h8.30am-5.30pm,

closed 3rd Tue, Wed & Thu Jun)

Across from the waterfront, this building was the trading house of the Dutch

East India Company. Shogunal authorities took the Gregorian date on the

front of the building (1639) as proof of forbidden Christianity, ordered it

destroyed and used it to justify confining Dutch traders to Dejima. It was

recently rebuilt according to the original plans and now houses displays

about the history and goods traded – textiles, ceramics, pewter ware, gin etc

– with good English descriptions.

o Ji-in to Kyōkai no Mieru Michi

STREET

(寺院と教会の見える道, Street for Viewing Temples & a Church)

This street, rising up a steep hill from town, is one of the most photogenic

vantage points in all of Kyūshū. The Buddhist temples and large Christian

church are testament to the island’s history and shared East-West heritage.

Matsuura Historical Museum

MUSEUM

(松浦史料博物館; %0950-22-2236; www.matsura.or.jp; 12 Kagamigawa-chō; ¥510; h8.30am-

5.30pm)

This museum is housed in the stunning residence of the Matsuura clan, who

ruled the island from the 11th to the 19th centuries. You’ll find armour that

you can don to pose for photos; byōbu (folding screen) paintings; and the

thatched-roof Kanun-tei chashitsu (tearoom) where the unusual Chinshin-

ryū warrior-style tea ceremony is still practised (10am to noon and 2pm to

4pm Friday). Other days, try matcha and local sweets for ¥500; ask for

taiken (experience) to whisk the tea yourself.

A shop on the premises rents kimonos to wear while you promenade

around town.

A combination ticket with the Oranda Shōkan costs ¥650.

DON’T MISS

TOP HIKING SPOTS

Hikers will discover that Kyūshū boasts some of Japan’s most awe-inspiring treks – nearly

every prefecture has great getaways. Below are some top spots, several of which follow still-

active volcanoes, making for jaw-droppingly awesome vistas…and sometimes requiring special

precautions. Look for the Kyūshū Olle brochure, available in many tourist booths, for trekking

routes through towns and trails.

At research time, some Aso-san routes were closed due to volcanic damage, but these may

reopen at any time.

Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park, Kagoshima

Unzen, Nagasaki

Hirado, Nagasaki

Kaimon-dake, Kagoshima

Aso-san, Kumamoto

Kujū-san, Ōita

4 Sleeping & Eating

Kotonoha

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(コトノハ; %0950-29-9442; 846-2 Sakagatachō; dm/s/tw ¥3000/3900/6500; niW)

Opened in 2017 by a friendly former Tokyoite, this humble guesthouse

across the street from Hirado’s ferry port shows its Taishō-era roots in quirky

touches like steep stairs and tree-trunk ceiling beams. The six dorm beds

look like wooden boxes fitted with futons – some have windows (with no

curtains), others don’t – and there’s one singlebed room and a bunk-bed

twin.

Hirado Seto Ichiba

SEAFOOD, MARKET

¥¥

(平戸瀬戸市場, Seaside Market; %restaurant 0950-57-1057; www.setoichiba.com; 345-15

Yamauchi-men, Tabira-chō; meals ¥800-2980; h11am-5pm; p; gHirado-guchi bus stop)

Downstairs is a fish market selling colourful and bargain-priced local fish

(gutted and filleted on request), while upstairs is a popular shokudō with

indoor-outdoor seating and views across the strait to Hirado. There’s no

English menu, but the regular menu has pictures of local specialities,

including kaisendon (raw seafood over rice bowl) and Hiradogyū (beef).

For dessert, a stand outside sells ice cream and sorbet made from local

fruit.

The market is across the street from Hirado-guchi bus stop.

Suzu

STEAK

¥¥

(鈴; %0950-23-3808; 446-1 Kihikida-chō; dishes ¥480-2300, lunch specials ¥1150-2500; h11am-

2pm & 5-9pm, closed most Wed)

Local Hiradogyū, marvellously marbled and tender, is highly prized. This

place on Hirado’s main shopping street does it yakiniku style: in a private

room, you cook the beef over a grill set into your table. Weekday lunch

specials are a great deal, or share the ‘pair set’ with your favourite co-chef.

Tsutaya

SWEETS

¥

(蔦屋; %0950-23-8000; 431 Kihikida-chō; sweets ¥100-220; h9am-7pm; p)

Tsutaya has been making gorgeous tea-ceremony sweets since 1502, as a

supplier to Hirado’s ruling Matsuura clan. Nowadays it reproduces those

historic tastes and innovates others, including through the ‘Sweet Hirado’

collaboration with Dutch candy makers. Buy snacks by the piece or the

package to take with you, or eat them in the shop’s lovely tatami room.

8 Information

Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平戸観光案内所; %0950-22-2015; 776-6 Sakigata; h8am-6pm; W) Near the ferry terminal; has lots of English-

language materials, free computers and wi-fi, and helpful staff who can

assist with booking accommodation.

8 Getting There & Away

Hirado is joined to Kyūshū by a mini Golden Gate–lookalike bridge from

Hirado-guchi. The closest train station, Tabira-Hirado-guchi on the private

Matsuura-tetsudō line (to Imari ¥1230, 65 minutes; to Sasebo ¥1340, 80

minutes), is Japan’s westernmost, and local buses cross the bridge to the

island (¥260, 10 minutes). From Nagasaki, journey to Sasebo by JR/express

bus (¥1600/1450, both 1½ hours) and continue to Hirado by bus (¥1500, 1½

hours).

8 Getting Around

Hirado township is small enough to navigate on foot, but you’ll need your

own transport for points elsewhere on the island.

Rental bikes are available at the Tourist Information Center for ¥500 per

four hours. Rental cars, starting at ¥5300 per day, are well worth it if you

plan to see the furthest sights or beaches.

NAGASAKI & AROUND

Nagasaki sits high on the list of Kyūshū’s must-sees, and not just for the

tragedy most often associated with it – the atomic bombing by the United

States at the end of WWII. The city has a colourful cosmopolitan history,

and a dynamic cuisine to match. Travelling east, there’s more history (and

volcanic landscapes) to explore on the Shimabara Peninsula.

Nagasaki 長崎

%095 / POP 430,000

It’s both unfortunate and important that the name Nagasaki (長崎) is

synonymous with the dropping of the second atomic bomb. This history

undeniably overshadows everything else, yet if that’s all you experience

during your visit you’ll be missing the point. As paradoxical as it may seem,

Nagasaki is vibrant and charming, and it begs to be explored far beyond the

bomb museums, monuments and memorials.

Spend some time here and you’ll find that this welcoming, peaceful city

also boasts a colourful history of trade with Europe and China, interesting

churches, shrines and temples, and an East-meets-West culinary scene, all set

prettily around a gracious harbour. A few days will only let you scratch the

surface.

Not that the WWII history can be overlooked: it’s as much a part of the

city’s fabric as the hilly landscape, and a visit to the scenes of atomic

devastation is a must.

History

Nagasaki Prefecture’s multilayered role in Japanese history started when an

off-course Chinese ship landed in Kagoshima Prefecture in 1543, carrying

guns and Portuguese explorers. Catholic missionaries arrived soon

thereafter, ushering in Japan’s ‘Christian Century’ (1549–1650), centred on

Nagasaki, Hirado and other local communities in Nagasaki Prefecture.

By 1570 Nagasaki had become a wealthy, fashionable port. While

Portuguese traders shuttled between Japan, China and Korea, missionaries

converted Japanese. In 1580 the daimyō (domain lord) briefly ceded

Nagasaki to the Society of Jesuits.

The shogun then reclaimed Nagasaki, expelled the Jesuits and, in 1597,

crucified 26 European and Japanese Christians. Christianity was officially

banned in 1613, yet some ‘hidden Christians’ ( kakure Kirishitan in

Japanese) continued to practise. In 2018 Unesco added sites related to the

hidden Christians to its World Heritage list.

After a peasant uprising at Shimabara in 1637–38, the shogunate excluded

all foreigners from Japan and forbade Japanese to travel overseas, beginning

a period called sakoku (national seclusion) that lasted over two centuries.

The single exception was Dejima, an artificial island in Nagasaki harbour

where Dutch traders lived under close scrutiny; the Dutch were deemed to be

more about trade than conversion or conquest.

When Japan reopened its doors to the world in the 1850s, Nagasaki was

uniquely positioned to become a major economic force, particularly in

shipbuilding, the industry that ultimately led to its tragic bombing on 9

August 1945.

Nagasaki

1 Top Sights

1 Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

B2

2 Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture

C5

3 Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims

B2

4 Peace Park

A1

5 Suwa-jinja

D5

1 Sights

6 26 Martyrs Memorial

C5

7 26 Martyrs Museum

C5

8 Atomic Bomb Hypocentre Park

A1

9 Inasa-yama

A4

10 Megane-bashi

D6

11 Nagai Takashi Memorial Museum

B1

12 Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum

B7

13 Nagasaki Ropeway

A4

Nakashima-gawa Bridges

(see 10)

14 One-Pillar Torii

B3

15 Peace Statue

B1

16 Urakami Cathedral

B1

4 Sleeping

17 Hostel Akari

D5

18 Hotel Nagasaki

B4

19 Sakamoto-ya

C6

5 Eating

20 Dejima Wharf

B6

21 No no Budo

B5

22 Shōkandō

D6

7 Shopping

23 Amu Plaza

C5

8 Information

24 Nagasaki City Tourist Information Center

B5

25 Nagasaki Prefectural Tourism Association & Visitors Bureau

C6

1 Sights

Nagasaki’s sights are scattered over a broad area, but once you’re in a

district it’s easy to walk from one location to the next. The atomic-bomb

hypocentre is in the suburb of Urakami, about 2.5km north of JR Nagasaki

Station. Central and southern Nagasaki are where you’ll find sights related to

its history of trade and foreign influence. Main enclaves are around JR

Nagasaki Station and about 2km south: Shinchi Chinatown, the Dutch

Slopes and Glover Garden. Near Shinchi Chinatown, Shianbashi is the main

nightlife and shopping district.

Parts of Nagasaki are quite hilly, so bring good walking shoes. Because of

the hills, people rarely cycle, and even driving can be challenging.

THE ATOMIC BOMB OVER NAGASAKI

When USAF B-29 bomber Bock’s Car set off from the Marianas on 9 August 1945 to drop a

second atomic bomb on Japan, the target was Kokura on Kyūshū’s northeastern coast. Due to

poor visibility, the crew diverted to the secondary target, Nagasaki.

The B-29 arrived over Nagasaki at 10.58am amid heavy cloud. When a momentary gap

appeared and the Mitsubishi Arms Factory was sighted, the 4.57-ton ‘Fat Man’ bomb, with an

explosive power equivalent to 21.3 kilotonnes of TNT (almost twice that of Hiroshima’s ‘Little

Boy’), was released over Nagasaki.

The bomb missed the arms factory, its intended target, and exploded at 11.02am, at an

altitude of 500m, almost directly above the largest Catholic church in Asia (Urakami

Cathedral). In an instant, it annihilated the suburb of Urakami and 74,000 of Nagasaki’s

240,000 people. Ground temperatures at the hypocentre were estimated at between 3000°C and

4000°C, and as high as 600°C 1.5km away. Everything within a 1km radius of the explosion

was destroyed, and searing winds up to 170km/h (typhoons generally top out at 150km/h) swept

down the valley of the Urakami-gawa towards the city centre. With able-bodied men at work or

at war, most victims were women, children and senior citizens, as well as 13,000 conscripted

Korean labourers and 200 Allied POWs. Another 75,000 people were horribly injured (and it is

estimated that as many people died due to the after-effects). After the resulting fires burned out,

a third of the city was gone.

Yet the damage might have been even worse had the targeted arms factory been hit. Unlike in

the flatlands of Hiroshima or the Nagasaki port itself, the hills around the river valley protected

outlying suburbs from greater damage.

1 Urakami (Northern Nagasaki)

Urakami, the hypocentre of the atomic explosion, is today a prosperous,

peaceful suburb. While nuclear ruin seems comfortably far away seven

decades later, many sights here keep the memory alive.

o Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims

MEMORIAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 国立長崎原爆死没者追悼平和祈念館;

www.peace-nagasaki.go.jp; 7-8 Hirano-machi; h8.30am-6.30pm May-Aug, to 5.30pm Sep-Apr; jHeiwa Kōen/Peace Park) F

Adjacent to the Atomic Bomb Museum and completed in 2003, this

minimalist memorial by Kuryū Akira is a profoundly moving place. It’s best

approached by quietly walking around the sculpted water basin,

commemorating those who cried for water in their dying days. In the hall

below, 12 ‘pillars of light’, containing shelves of books of the names of the

deceased, reach skyward. Listen to survivors’ messages and leave your own

digital message for peace at ‘peace information counters’.

o Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎原爆資料館; %095-844-1231; www.nagasakipeace.jp; 7-8 Hirano-machi; ¥200, audioguide ¥154; h8.30am-6.30pm May-Aug, to 5.30pm Sep-Apr; jGenshi

Shiryokan/Atomic Bomb Museum)

On 9 August 1945, the world’s second nuclear weapon detonated over

Nagasaki, and this sombre place recounts the city’s destruction and loss of

life through photos and artefacts, including mangled rocks, trees, furniture,

pottery and clothing, a clock stopped at 11.02 (the time of the bombing),

firsthand accounts from survivors, and stories of heroic relief efforts.

Exhibits also include the post-bombing struggle for nuclear disarmament,

and conclude with a chilling illustration of which nations bear nuclear arms.

o Peace Park

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平和公園, Heiwa-kōen; jŌhashi) North of the hypocentre, Peace Park is presided over by the 10-tonne bronze

Nagasaki Peace Statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 平和祈念像; Peace Park), designed in 1955 by Kitamura Seibō. It also includes the dove-shaped Fountain of

Peace (1969) and the Peace Symbol Zone, a sculpture garden with

contributions on the theme of peace from around the world. On 9 August a

rowdy antinuclear protest is held within earshot of the more formal official

memorial ceremony for those lost to the bomb.

Atomic Bomb Hypocentre Park

PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎爆心地公園; jHeiwa Kōen/Peace Park) A must-see for anyone coming to Nagasaki for its historic significance, this

park houses a smooth, black-stone column that marks the point above which

the atomic bomb exploded. Nearby are bomb-blasted relics, including a

section of the wall of the Urakami Cathedral.

Urakami Cathedral

CHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浦上天主堂; 1-79 Motō-machi; h9am-5pm; jAtomic Bombing Museum)

Once the largest church in Asia (1914), the cathedral took three decades to

complete and three seconds to flatten. This smaller replacement cathedral

was completed in 1959 on the ruins of the original. Walk around the side of

the hill to see a belfry lying in state where the original building fell after the

atomic blast.

Catholic visitors are welcome to worship, in a side chapel where the

original hibaku Maria is kept, a charred figure of the Virgin Mary.

Nagai Takashi Memorial Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 永井隆記念館; %095-844-3496; 22-6 Ueno-machi; ¥100; h9am-5pm; jŌhashi)

This small but quietly moving museum celebrates the courage and faith of

one man in the face of overwhelming adversity. Already suffering from

leukaemia, Dr Nagai survived the atomic explosion but lost his wife to it. He

immediately devoted himself to the treatment of bomb victims until his

death in 1951. In his final days he continued to write prolifically and to

secure donations for survivors and orphans, earning the nickname ‘Saint of

Nagasaki’. Ask to watch the video in English.

Next door is Nyokodō (如己堂), the simple hut from which Dr Nagai

worked – its name comes from the biblical commandment ‘love thy

neighbour as thyself’.

One-Pillar Torii

MONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 一本柱鳥居; jDaigaku-byōin or Urakami) The atomic blast knocked down half of the stone entrance arch to Sannojinja

shrine, 800m southeast of the hypocentre, but the other pillar remains, a

quiet testament to the power of human strength and resilience.

Central Nagasaki

1 Top Sights

1 Dejima

A2

2 Sōfuku-ji

G3

1 Sights

3 Shinchi Chinatown

B3

5 Eating

4 Hōuntei

E3

5 Organic Restaurant Tia

C3

6 Ryōtei Kagetsu

E4

7 Shippoku Hamakatsu

F2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Bar IWI

(see 4)

8 Barakamon

E3

7 Shopping

9 Fukusaya

E3

1 Central Nagasaki

o Dejima

HISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 出島; %095-829-1194; www.nagasakidejima.jp; 6-1 Dejima-machi; ¥510; h8am-7pm mid-Jul–mid-Oct, to 6pm mid-Oct–mid-Jul; jDejima)

In 1641 the Tokugawa shogunate banished all foreigners from Japan, with

one exception: Dejima, a fan-shaped, artificial island in Nagasaki harbour.

From then until the 1850s, this tiny, 15,000-sq-metre Dutch trading post was

the sole sanctioned foreign presence in Japan. Today the city has filled in

around the island and you might be tempted to skip it. Don’t. Seventeen

buildings, walls and structures (plus a miniature Dejima) have been

painstakingly reconstructed.

Restored and reopened in 2006 and constantly being upgraded, the

buildings are as instructive inside as they are appealing outside, filled with

exhibits covering the spread of trade, Western learning and culture,

archaeological digs, and rooms combining Japanese tatami (tightly woven

floor matting) with Western wallpaper. There’s excellent English signage.

Allow at least two hours.

Free walking-tour maps of the entire site are available, and there’s even a

kimonorental shop (¥2000/6000 per hour/day) for those who want to feel

even more historically connected.

o Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎歴史文化博物館; %095-818-8366; www.nmhc.jp; 1-1-1

Tateyama; ¥600; h8.30am-7pm, closed 3rd Tue of month; jSakuramachi)

This large museum with attractive displays focuses on Nagasaki’s proud

history of international exchange. Additionally, there’s a fabulous, detailed

reconstruction of a section of the Edo-period Nagasaki Magistrate’s Office,

which controlled trade and diplomacy. Be sure to get the free

Englishlanguage audio guide.

o Suwa-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 諏訪神社; %095-824-0445; 18-15 Kaminishiyama-machi; h24hr; jSuwa-jinja) F

Situated on a forested hilltop and reached via multiple staircases with nearly

200 steps, this enormous shrine was established in 1625. Around the grounds

are statues of komainu (protective dogs), including the kappa-komainu

(water-sprite dogs), which you pray to by dribbling water onto the plates on

their heads. The gankake komainu (turntable dog) was often called on by

prostitutes, who prayed that storms would arrive, forcing the sailors to stay

at the port another day.

The shrine comes to life each year with the dragon dance of Kunchi

Matsuri, Nagasaki’s most important annual festival.

o Sōfuku-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 崇福寺; 7-5 Kajiya-machi; ¥300; h8am-5pm; jSōfuku-ji) In Teramachi, this Ōbaku temple (Ōbaku is the third-largest Zen sect after

Rinzai and Sōtō) was built in 1629 by Chinese monk Chaonian. Its red

entrance gate (Daiippo-mon) exemplifies Ming-dynasty architecture. Inside

the temple you can admire a huge cauldron that was used to prepare food for

famine victims in 1681, and a statue of Mazu (aka Maso), goddess of the

sea, worshipped by early Chinese seafarers. There are excellent descriptions

in English throughout the grounds.

Nakashima-gawa Bridges

BRIDGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 中島川; jShimin Kaikan/Civic Hall or Megane-bashi) Parallel to Teramachi, the Nakashima-gawa is crossed by a picturesque

collection of 17th-century stone bridges. At one time each bridge was the

distinct entrance to a separate temple. Best known is the double-arched

Megane-bashi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; めがね橋, Spectacles Bridge; jMeganebashi). Six of the 10 bridges, including Megane-bashi, were washed away by flooding

in 1982 but later restored using the recovered stones.

Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎県美術館; %095-833-2110; www.nagasaki-museum.jp; 2-1 Dejimamachi; ¥400; h10am-8pm, closed 2nd & 4th Mon of month; jShimin-Byōin-mae) F

Designed by Kuma Kengo (the architect behind Tokyo’s Nezu Museum and

2020 Olympic Stadium), this museum straddles a canal in an

environmentally friendly building (note the roof garden). The permanent

collection covers both Nagasaki-related art and Spanish art, and special

exhibits are eclectic, from Chinese art to Chagall. There’s a lovely cafe in

the bridge over the canal.

26 Martyrs Memorial

MEMORIAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 日本二十六聖人殉教地) This memorial wall has reliefs of the 26 Christians – six Spanish friars and

20 Japanese – crucified in 1597 during a harsh crackdown. The youngest

killed were boys aged 12 and 13. Behind the memorial is a simple museum

(二十六聖人記念館; %095-822-6000; www.26martyrs.com; 7-8 Nishisaka-machi; ¥500;

h9am-5pm) with Christianity-related displays. The memorial is a 10-minute

walk from JR Nagasaki Station.

Shinchi Chinatown

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 新地中華街; jShinchi Chinatown) During Japan’s long period of seclusion, Chinese traders were theoretically

just as restricted as the Dutch, but in practice they were relatively free. Only

a couple of buildings remain from the old area, but Nagasaki still has an

energetic Chinese community, a fact evident in the city’s culture,

architecture, festivals and cuisine. Visitors come from far and wide to eat

here and shop for Chinese crafts and ornaments.

DON’T MISS

IMASA-YAMA

West of the harbour, the Nagasaki Ropeway ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎ロープウェイ;

%095-861-3640; www.nagasaki-ropeway.jp; 8-1 Fuchi-machi; return ¥1230; h9am-10pm; jMori-machi) ascends every 15 to 20 minutes to the top of 333m-high Inasa-yama ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 稲佐山, Mt Inasa), offering superb views over Nagasaki; it’s been ranked as one of the world’s top three nighttime views, alongside Hong Kong and Monaco. A tower at

the top offers even more panoramic views.

1 Southern Nagasaki

Glover Garden

GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グラバー園; %095-822-8223; www.glover-garden.jp; 8-1

Minamiyamate-machi; adult/student ¥610/300; h8am-9.30pm May–mid-Jul, to 6pm mid-Jul–Apr;

jŌura Tenshudō)

Some two dozen former homes of the city’s Meijiperiod European residents

and other important buildings have been reassembled in this beautifully

landscaped hillside garden, with breathtaking views across the harbour.

Glover Garden is named after Scottish merchant and industrialist Thomas

Glover (1838–1911), who built Japan’s first railway and helped establish the

shipbuilding industry, and whose arms-importing operations influenced the

course of the Meiji Restoration.

Start by taking the moving walkways to the top of the hill, then work your

way back down.

The Mitsubishi No 2 Dock building ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 旧三菱第２ドッ

クハウス) is at the top, with panoramic views of the city and harbour from

the 2nd floor. Next highest is Walker House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旧ウォー

カー住宅), filled with artefacts donated by the Glover and Walker families,

followed by Ringer House ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 旧リンガー住宅), Alt House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 旧オルト住宅) and finally Glover House ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 旧グラバー住宅). Halfway down is the Madame Butterfly Statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) of Japanese opera singer Tamaki Miura. Exit the garden through the Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Museum (

MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎伝統芸能館), which has a display of dragons and floats used in Nagasaki’s colourful Kunchi Matsuri.

The ‘audio pen’ guide, available near the ticket office, gives lots of

detailed commentary and costs ¥700, although the map that comes with it

can be confusing.

o Ōura Cathedral

CHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大浦天主堂; %095-823-2628; 5-3 Minamiyamate-machi; ¥1000; h8am-6pm; jŌura Tenshudō)

This hilltop church, Japan’s oldest (1864), is dedicated to the 26 Christians

who were crucified in Nagasaki in 1597. The former seminary and bishop’s

residence have recently been renovated to house a museum exhibiting items

relating to the history of Christianity in Japan, with a special focus on hidden

Christians and the suffering they endured under shogunal rule. The church

and other Nagasaki Christian sites were named to Unesco’s World Heritage

list in 2018.

Dutch Slopes

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; オランダ坂, Oranda-zaka; jOura Cathedral) The gently inclined flagstone streets known as the Dutch Slopes were once

lined with wooden Dutch houses. Several buildings here have been

beautifully restored and offer glimpses of Japan’s early interest in the West.

The Japanese name ‘Oranda-zaka’ comes from the Japanese word for

Holland. It’s a lovely stroll, and the quiet Ko-shashinshiryōkan (古写真資

料館, Museum of Old Photographs; 6-25 Higashi-yamatemachi; combined admission ¥100; h9am-

5pm Tue-Sun) and Maizō-shiryōkan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 埋蔵資料館) museums showcase the area’s history (note that most signage is in Japanese).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

GHOST ISLAND HASHIMA

From afar, the Unesco World Heritage island of Hashima (軍艦島) resembles a battleship,

hence its nickname Gunkanjima (‘battleship island’). Up close, this long-abandoned coal mine

looks as though it’s straight out of an apocalyptic manga (even appearing as the villain’s lair in

the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall). Once earth’s most densely populated place, it became a

ghost island when the mines were closed in 1974, and it’s been left to nature since, now

accessible only by guided tour.

Access is restricted because so many structures have collapsed or been damaged that much of

the island is unsafe. Guided tours allow visitors to ramble on walkways among the long-disused

skyscrapers. Some of the architecture (such as the iconic ‘X’ stairways – alas, not visible on the

tour) was considered remarkable for its time, as engineers tackled the challenges of designing

for such cramped living.

While most of the spoken guiding is in Japanese, English info is available. Three-hour

cruises from Nagasaki run twice daily from April to October; there are fewer departures

November to March. Contact Gunkanjima Concierge ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 軍艦島コ

ンシェルジュ; %095-895-9300; www.gunkanjima-concierge.com; Tokiwa Town, 1-60 Tokiwa Terminal Bldg 102; tour ¥4300) for reservations.

Bring sunscreen and make sure you’ve gone to the bathroom prior to exiting the boat: there

are no facilities on the island.

For days when the island is inaccessible, the nearby Gunkanjima Digital Museum ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 軍艦島デジタルミュージアム; %095-895-5000; www.gunkanjima-

museum.jp; 5-6 Matsugae-machi; adult ¥1800; h9am-6pm; jOura-Tenshudō) shows off the

island from afar, through video presentations and virtual-reality experiences.

z Festivals & Events

Kunchi Matsuri

CULTURAL

(くんち祭; h7-9 Oct)

This energetic festival features Chinese dragons dancing all around the city,

but especially at Suwa-jinja. The festival is marked by elaborate costumes,

fireworks, cymbals and giant dragon puppets. In addition, neighbourhood

associations sponsor colourful floats, many shaped like boats and reflecting

Nagasaki’s Dutch and Chinese influences.

Peiron Dragon-Boat Races

CULTURAL

(hlate Jul)

Colourful boat races were introduced by the Chinese in the mid-1600s, and

held to appease the god of the sea. They still take place in Nagasaki harbour.

4 Sleeping

For ease of transport and access to restaurants and nightlife, it’s most

convenient to stay near JR Nagasaki Station or Shianbashi.

o Hostel Akari

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホステルあかり; %095-801-7900; www.nagasaki-hostel.com; 2-2

Kōjiya-machi; dm/s/d/tr from ¥2700/3900/¥6800/¥9900; hreception 9am-1pm & 3-8pm; naW;

jShimin-kaikan)

This commendably friendly 28-bed hostel sets the standard, with bright,

clean Japanese-style rooms with Western-style bedding and bathrooms, uber-

helpful staff, an open kitchen and a dedicated crew of local volunteers who

lead free walking tours around the city. It’s located by the lovely

Nakashimagawa. Towel rental is ¥100. Check-in can be tough between 1pm

and 3pm.

o Sakamoto-ya

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 料亭御宿坂本屋; %095-826-8211; www.sakamotoya.co.jp; 2-13

Kanaya-machi; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥16,200; pnaiW; jGoto-machi)

This magnificent old-school ryokan has been in business since 1894.

Offering shippoku-ryōri (Nagasaki-style kaiseki) and personalised service,

Sakamotoya has just 11 rooms, each with a hinokiburo (cypress bath).

Hallways are lined with Arita-yaki pottery and there are postage-stamp-size

gardens off 1st-floor rooms. From Goto-machi tram stop, walk past S-Peria

Hotel and turn left; it’s diagonally across from the TV tower.

Hotel Nagasaki

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・ホテル長崎 ＢＷプレミアコレクション; %095-821-1111; www.landowner.jp/hotel-nagasaki; 2-26 Takaramachi; s/d/tw from ¥15,200/16,200/17,400; pnaW; jTakaramachi)

This polished hotel, with spacious rooms and decent-size bathrooms, is

about seven minutes’ walk from Nagasaki Station and right across from a

tram stop. Breakfast (¥1000 extra) is served in the 15th-floor dining room,

with sweeping views south towards the harbour or north to the hills and

Urakami. The best part, though, is the caring, practically doting, service.

Glover Garden Area

1 Top Sights

1 Ōura Cathedral

B3

1 Sights

2 Alt House

B4

3 Dutch Slopes

D2

4 Glover Garden

B3

5 Glover House

A3

6 Gunkanjima Digital Museum

A2

7 Ko-shashin-shiryōkan

D2

8 Madame Butterfly Statue

A4

Maizō-shiryōkan

(see 7)

9 Mitsubishi No 2 Dock Building

B4

10 Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Museum

A3

11 Ringer House

A4

12 Walker House

B4

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

13 Gunkanjima Concierge

B1

5 Eating

14 Higashi-yamate Chikyū-kan

D2

5 Eating

Nagasaki cuisine reflects its rich international history, with influences from

China and Europe popping up in what looks typically Japanese at first

glance. There are restaurants throughout town, especially in shopping

districts and around the station and harbour areas.

Hōuntei

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宝雲亭; %095-821-9333; 1-8 Motoshikkui-machi; dishes ¥380-540; h5.30-11pm; jShianbashi)

Patrons have been ordering the hito-kuchi gyōza (¥380 for 10) at this rustic

hole-in-the-wall place since the 1970s. Also try butaniratoji (pork and

shallots cooked omelette style; ¥540) or beer or sake highball cocktails.

There’s a picture menu. Look for the red-letter signage and brown noren

(door curtain) across from Hamanmachi Shopping Arcade.

o Organic Restaurant Tia

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ティア; %095-828-2984; www.tia-nagasaki.com; 7-18 Ginza-chō; set meals lunch/dinner from ¥900/1500; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Thu-Sat, 11.30am-2.30pm Tue,

Wed & Sun; jShinchi Chinatown)

Tia serves a buffet of mouth-watering home-style Japanese cooking using

local, organic products. It’s on the 2nd floor, with an entry that’s easy to miss

on the corner of the Links Douza Building.

o Shippoku Hamakatsu

KAISEKI

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 卓袱浜勝; %095-826-8321; www.sippoku.jp; 6-50 Kajiya-machi;

lunch/dinner from ¥1500/3500, shippoku courses ¥3900-7900; h11am-10pm; jShianbashi)

Come here if you’d like to experience shippoku-ryōri (Nagasaki-style

kaiseki) and still afford your airfare home. Menus are filling and varied, and

there’s a choice of Japanese- or Westernstyle seating.

No no Budo

BUFFET

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 野の葡萄; %095-895-8515; 5th fl, Amu Plaza, 1-1 Onouemachi; buffet lunch/dinner ¥1600/2100; h11am-11pm; jNagasaki-eki-mae, dJR Nagasaki)

Come for the buffet, stay for the view at the new Nagasaki branch of this

much-loved casual buffet chain. Dozens of savoury and dessert offerings

concentrate on organic and local, including an entire counter of Nagasaki

specialities. The views from the far windows overlooking the harbour offer a

great perspective on the city.

Higashi-yamate Chikyū-kan

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 東山手「地球館」; %095-822-7966; www.higashiyamate-

chikyukan.com; 6-25 Higashiyamate-machi; cafe mains ¥800-850, restaurant prices vary; hcafe 10am-5pm Thu-Mon, restaurant noon-3pm Sat & Sun; jIshibashi)

In the Dutch Slopes a quirky ‘World Foods Restaurant’ operates most

weekends; each week a different chef comes to prepare inexpensive meals

from their home country – some 70 nations have been represented so far.

This little gem is what cultural exchange is all about. Chess and language

exchange are also reasons to stop by.

Dejima Wharf

INTERNATIONAL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 出島ワーフ; %095-828-3939; www.dejimawharf.com; 1-1-109

Dejimamachi; jDejima)

First things first: the wharf’s not part of Dejima; the land didn’t even exist

during those times. Still, Dejima Wharf is a picturesque harbour-side

collection of indoor-outdoor restaurants (serving everything from seafood to

Italian at a variety of price points), plus bars and galleries. Add sunset views

over the bay – maybe with your sweetie – and it’s well worth a visit.

Ryōtei Kagetsu

KAISEKI

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 史跡料亭花月; %095-822-0191; www.ryoutei-kagetsu.co.jp; 2-1

Maruyama-machi; lunch/dinner set meals from ¥10,370/14,260; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon;

jShianbashi)

Dating to 1642, this sky-high shippoku-ryōri restaurant started life as a high-

class brothel. Japanese skills or a chaperone, and a love of food, will

enhance the dining experience. There are beautiful gardens and an English

sign with the building’s history as you walk in, complementing the movie-set

ambience. Reservations essential.

DON’T MISS

NAGASAKI SPECIALTIES

Champon is a local take on ramen featuring squid, pork and vegetables in a milky, salt-based

broth. Sara-udon nests the same toppings in a sauce over fried noodles. Chinese and Portuguese

influences converge with Japanese in shippoku-ryōri, Nagasaki-style kaiseki (Japanese haute

cuisine). Kakuni-manju is pork belly in a sweet sauce, a Chinese dish often found at street

stalls. Chirin-chirin, flavoured shaved ice, is sold from tiny carts around town in warmer

months.

And no visit to Nagasaki is complete without a taste of castella. This yellow brick-shaped

sponge cake may have originated with the Portuguese, but has become a must-have Nagasaki

treat and souvenir.

There seems to be a castella shop by every tourist attraction. Two of the finer shops are

Fukusaya ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 福砂屋; %095-821-2938; www.fukusaya.co.jp; 3-1

Funadaiku-machi; h8.30am-8pm; jShianbashi), making the cakes since 1624, and Shōkandō (

MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 匠寛堂; %095-826-1123; www.shokando.jp; 7-24 Uo-no-machi;

h9am-7pm; jMegane-bashi), across from Megane-bashi, supplier to the Japanese imperial

family.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Nagasaki nightlife can be hit or miss. You might find everyone partying on

Friday or it could be dead. Little nightspots punctuate the narrow lanes

around Hamano-machi and Shianbashi.

In the warmer months, Glover Garden hosts a beer garden with pretty

views across the harbour. Check the website for opening times.

Barakamon

BAR

( MAP ; ばらかもん; 2-19 Moto-Shikkuimachi; jShianbashi)

This standing bar sits on the back alley of Shianbashi-yokochō and serves

beers, highballs and ‘strawberry milk’ (with shōchū liquor). Look for the

tiny storefront beneath the red sign.

Bar IWI

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; イーウィ; www.facebook.com/barIWIofficial; 1-7 Motoshikkui-machi;

h8pm-3am Mon-Sat; jShianbashi)

Owned by Brynn, a friendly Kiwi, this cosy ‘one-coin bar’ has (mostly)

¥500 drinks and stays open to the wee hours, with an ever-changing mix of

foreigners and primarily English-speaking locals. It’s steps away from the

Shianbashi tram stop.

8 Information

INTERNET ACCESS

Nagasaki offers free wi-fi in many public places including JR Nagasaki

Station, Dejima Wharf and Shinchi Chinatown. Visit www.ninjin-

area.net/sites/map to find locations, and look for ninjin.net in your browser

to sign on (there’s an option in English).

TOURIST INFORMATION

In addition to tourist brochures available at locations following, look for the

free English-language magazine Nagazasshi, published by local expats,

containing events, sightseeing tips and features. A new multilingual call

centre (%095-825-5175) caters to English-speaking visitors, and is being heavily

pushed by the info desks – a shame, as speaking with a real person is often

10 times more effective than a phone call. This leads to a less-than-optimal

tourist experience, but at the moment, if your questions run beyond which

train to catch or whether there’s a map available you’ll likely be directed to

call the number. It may be that your most frustrating moments will be there

at the info desks – luckily, people are far friendlier and more eager to help

once you’re outside.

Nagasaki City Tourist Information Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 長崎市総合

観光案内所; %095-823-3631; www.at-nagasaki.jp/foreign/english; 1st fl, JR Nagasaki Station;

h8am-8pm) This often-busy office can assist with basic needs such as finding

accommodation, and has brochures and maps in English. The English

spoken is minimal, though.

Nagasaki Prefectural Tourism Association & Visitors Bureau ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; %095-828-9407; www.visit-nagasaki.com; 8th fl, 14-10 Motofuna-machi; h9am-5.30pm; jŌhato) Check the website for detailed info on tourism and activities.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Nagasaki’s airport (%0957-52-5555; www.nabic.co.jp; 593 Mishima-machi, Ōmura-shi) is located about 40km from the city. There are flights between Nagasaki and

Tokyo (Haneda), Osaka (Itami), Okinawa and Nagoya, as well as Seoul and

Shanghai. In addition, Skymark flies to Kobe, and Peach has a flight to

Kansai International. Oriental Air Bridge (an ANA codeshare) flies to

Nagasaki’s island towns such as Iki, Tsushima and Goto-Fukue.

BUS

From the Kenei bus station opposite JR Nagasaki Station, buses depart for

Unzen (¥1800, 1¾ hours), Sasebo (¥1500, 1½ hours), Fukuoka (¥2570, three

hours), Kumamoto (¥3700, 3¼ hours) and Beppu (¥4630, 3½ hours). Night

buses for Osaka (¥10,900, 10 hours) leave from both the Kenei bus

terminal (県営バスターミナル; MAP ) and the Shinchi bus terminal (新地

バスターミナル; MAP ).

TRAIN

JR lines from Nagasaki head for Sasebo (¥1650, 2¼ hours), Hirado (¥2990,

four hours) and Fukuoka (Hakata Station; tokkyū ¥4500, two hours). Most

other destinations require a change of train. Currently there’s no shinkansen

service to Nagasaki, but it’s on the way, with completion expected in 2023.

8 Getting Around

The best way of getting around Nagasaki is by tram. There are four colour-

coded routes numbered 1, 3, 4 and 5 (route 2 is for special events), and stops

are signposted in English. It costs ¥120 to travel anywhere in town, but you

can transfer for free at the Shinchi Chinatown (新地中華街) stop only: ask

for a noritsugi (transfer pass). Alternatively, all day, unlimited tram passes

are available for ¥500 from tourist information centres and many hotels.

Most trams stop running around 11.30pm.

Buses cover a wider area than trams do, but they’re less user-friendly for

non-Japanese speakers.

Airport Bus Stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Services to the airport stop outside the Shinchi bus terminal.

Ropeway-mae Bus Stop (ロープウェイ前; MAP ) The bus stop closest to

the ropeway.

Bicycles can be rented from JR Nagasaki Station at Eki Rent-a-Car ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; %095-826-0480; 1-89 Onoemachi; per 2hr/day ¥500/1500; h8am-8pm). JR Pass holders receive a 20% discount. Bikes are electric; however, due to the hilly

terrain, bikes are not the ideal way to get around.

Shimabara Peninsula 島原半島

The hilly Shimabara Peninsula (島原半島), between the calm waters of

Tachibana Bay and the Ariake Sea, can be visited en route from Nagasaki to

Kumamoto. Highlights include hiking in the mountains and among the

boiling hot springs of Unzen, and strolling the lovely town of Shimabara.

8 Getting There & Around

The peninsula is accessible by train and bus from Nagasaki. Rail service is a

combination of JR Kyūshū and the Shimabara Railway. Ferry services

connect Shimabara with Kumamoto.

While buses are available on the peninsula, times are infrequent. Your

own rental car will save time and hassles.

Shimabara

%0957 / POP 44,936

This relaxed castle town has a reconstructed castle, and old samurai

residence quarters and springs so clear that koi-filled waterways line the

streets. The springs first appeared following the 1792 eruption of nearby

Unzen-dake, and the town still vividly recalls the deadly 1991 eruption,

commemorated with a harrowing museum.

Shimabara

1 Top Sights

1 Samurai Houses

A1

2 Shimabara-jō

A1

1 Sights

3 Koi no Uyogu Machi

B2

5 Eating

4 Himematsu-ya

A1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

5 Shimabara Mizuyashiki

B2

6 Shimeisō

B2

7 Shopping

7 Inohara Kanamono-ten

B1

1 Sights

o Shimabara-jō

CASTLE

( MAP ; 島原城; %0957-62-4766; www.shimabarajou.com; 1-1183-1 Jonai; combined admission incl museums adult/child ¥540/270; h9am-5.30pm)

This hilltop castle was ruled mostly by the Matsudaira clan from the 1660s

and played a part in the Shimabara Rebellion. It was rebuilt in 1964. As well

as lotus ponds, tangled gardens, almost 4km of massive stone walls

overgrown with greenery, and staff dressed in period costume, the castle

grounds house four museums. Most notable is the main castle, displaying

arms, armour and items relating to local Christian history, with English

explanations.

o Samurai Houses

HISTORIC SITE

( MAP ; 武家屋敷) F

In the Teppō-machi area, northwest of the castle, are buke yashiki (samurai

residences) set along a pretty, 450m-long gravel road with a stream down the

middle. Most of the houses are inhabited, but several are open to the public.

Teppō-machi is about a 10-minute walk from Shimabara Castle.

Koi no Uyogu Machi

OLD TOWN

( MAP ; 鯉の泳ぐ街, City of Swimming Carp) F

The spring water that flows into Shimabara from Mt Unzen is so pure that

koi can swim in it, and in this district south of the castle you can see the fish

in the drainage canals on the sides of the streets, and up close in teahouses

like Shimeisō.

Gamadas Dome Mt Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall

MUSEUM

(がまだすドーム雲仙岳災害記念館; %0957-65-5555; www.udmh.or.jp; 1-1 Heisei-

machi; adul ¥1000, student ¥500-700; h9am-6pm; p)

About 4km south of the town centre, this excellent high-tech museum is

larger than many a good-size city’s town hall. It focuses on the 1991

eruption and vulcanology in general, and is plonked eerily at the base of the

lava flow. Get the free English audio guide, and visit the disturbingly lifelike

simulation theatre.

4 Sleeping & Eating

o Hotel Nampūrō

HOTEL

¥¥

(ホテル南風楼; %0957-62-5111; www.nampuro.com; 2-7331-1 Bentenmachi; s from ¥10,000, d

with/without 2 meals ¥17,600/11,600; pnaiWs)

This cheerful, busy resort is the place to stay, especially with kids in tow.

Englishspeaking staff are welcoming, and there’s a large family-friendly

play area for young children, a pool (summer only), inflatable toys, and even

a pen with goats and rabbits. For onsen bathers, multiple rotemburo (outdoor

baths; day-use permitted) offer stunning sea views, especially at sunrise.

Himematsu-ya

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP ; 姫松屋; %0957-63-7272; 1-1208 Jōnai; dishes ¥500-1180, set meals ¥800-2100; h11am-

7pm, closed 2nd Tue of month)

This venerable yet up-to-date restaurant across from the castle serves

Shimabara’s best-known dish, guzōni, a clear broth with mochi (poundedrice

dumplings), seafood and vegetables. There’s more standard Japanese fare,

too, and Unzen-raised wagyū beef goes for ¥1600.

7 Shopping

o Inohara Kanamono-ten

HOMEWARES

( MAP ; 猪原金物店; %0957-62-3117; www.inohara.jp; 912 Ueno-machi; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue, closed 3rd Thu of month)

Dating from the 1850s and a registered cultural property, this busy, rustic

blade shop is filled with incredible knives, hatchets, swords and even ninja

shuriken (throwing stars), plus just about anything you might need for a

Japanese kitchen – daikon (radish) graters, bamboo strainers, bentō boxes

and more. An enthusiastic owner helps you make sense of it all.

There’s also a cafe, offering good Japanese curry (¥1000), sōmen

(noodles; ¥680), dango (rice dumplings) and shaved ice (from ¥400), all

made with fresh Shimabara water and using hand-sharpened blades.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (島原温泉観光協会; %0957-62-3986; 7-5

Shimokawashirimachi; h8.30am-5.30pm) Located inside the ferry-terminal bus station

(note: not in the train station).

8 Getting There & Away

JR trains from Nagasaki to Isahaya ( futsū/tokkyū ¥460/760, 34/17 minutes)

connect with hourly private Shimabara-tetsudō line trains to

Shimabara/Shimabara-gaikō Stations (¥1430/1510, 1/1¼ hours) by the

castle/port respectively.

Ferries to Kumamoto Port depart frequently from Shimabara Port (7am to

7pm), including Ocean Arrow Ferries (オーシャンアロー; %0957-63-8008;

www.kumamotoferry.co.jp; adult/child ¥1000/500, driver with economy-size car ¥3100; h7.30am-5.30pm), which take 30 minutes, and slower (one hour) Kyūshō Ferry Co (九

商フェリー; %Kumamoto 096-329-6111, Shimabara 0957-65-0456; www.kyusho-ferry.co.jp; 7-5

Shimokawashirimachi; adult/child ¥780/390, driver with economy-size car ¥2310; hoffice 9am-7pm

Mon-Fri, ticket office 6am-7.30pm daily) ferries. From Kumamoto Port, buses take

you to the city (free to ¥480).

8 Getting Around

Local buses shuttle between Shimabara Station and the port (¥170) or train

station (¥150). Bikes can also be rented at the castle or at Shimabara Gaikō

Station (¥150 per hour).

DON’T MISS

SHIMABARA’S TEAHOUSES

With all the clear water flowing through town, Shimabara is known for its teahouses. For a

quick break, stop for tea at Shimeisō ( MAP ; 四明荘; %095-763-1121; 2-125 Shinmachi;

¥300; h9am-6pm), a villa on stilts over a spring-fed pond. Off Shimabara’s central arcade, the

delightful Meiji-era Shimabara Mizuyashiki ( MAP ; しまばら水屋敷; %0957-62-8555;

www.mizuyashiki.com; 513 Yorozumachi; tea & sweets ¥325-810; h11am-5pm) features a lovely garden, a spring-fed pond and an obsessive collection of maneki-neko (lucky cat)

figurines from all over Japan, some for sale. The enthusiastic owner has created a detailed

walking map of sights and restaurants in town.

Unzen

%0957

In Unzen-Amakusa National Park, Japan’s first national park, Unzen (雲仙)

is off the beaten path but spectacularly worth a visit. It boasts dozens of

onsen and woodsy trekking through volcanic landscapes. Unzen village is

easily explored in an afternoon, and once the day trippers clear out you can

enjoy a peaceful night’s stay in some great hot-spring accommodation. The

village also has the honour of being perhaps the last place in all of Japan

without a convenience store.

1 Sights & Activities

A path just outside the village winds through the bubbling jigoku (literally

‘hells’; boiling mineral hot springs). Unlike the touristy jigoku of Beppu,

these natural wonders are broken up only by stands selling onsen tamago

(onsen-steamed hard-cooked eggs). A few centuries ago these jigoku lived

up to their infernal name when some 30 Christian martyrs were plunged

alive into Oito Jigoku.

For a quick walk among the jigoku of Unzen village, start at Gojū-shūnen

Hiroba (五十周年広場) near the tourist office.

From the town there are popular walks to Kinugasa, Takaiwa-san and

Yadake, all situated within the national park. The Mt Unzen Visitors Centre

has displays on volcanoes, flora and fauna, and information in English.

Nearby, via Nita-tōge (Nita Pass), is Fugendake (1359m), part of the

Unzen-dake range. Its hiking trail has incredible views of the lava flow from

the summit. A shared Heisei Taxi takes you to the Nita-tōge parking area

(¥430), starting point for the Fugen-dake walk. A cable car (雲仙ロープ

ウェイ; %0957-73-3572; 1 way ¥630; h8.50am-5.20pm) gets you close to a shrine and

the summit of Myōken-dake (1333m), from where the hike via Kunimi-

wakare takes just under two hours return. Walk 3.5km back from the shrine

to Nita via the village and valley of Azami-dani.

For a longer excursion (three hours), detour to Kunimi-dake (1347m) for

a good glimpse of Japan’s newest mountain, the smoking lava dome of

Heisei Shinzan (1483m), created in November 1990 when Fugen-dake blew

its stack.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Nearly all dining is done at hotels, so eating options are limited and close

early. Along the hiking trail near the town centre you can snack on onsen

tamago (hot-spring-steamed eggs).

Tsudoi Guest House

GUESTHOUSE

¥

(集; %0957-60-4225; 323-2-2 Unzen; dm ¥3300; naiW)

The name of this new guesthouse means ‘to come together’ in Japanese, and

its relaxed, 20-bed facilities make that easy. The friendly owner leads

activities like Nordic walking expeditions (¥1000 per person), and overnight

stays include admission to local onsen. Prep your own simple meals in the

guest-use kitchen.

o Fukudaya

HOTEL

¥¥

(福田屋; %0957-73-2151; www.fukudaya.co.jp; 380-2 Unzen; r incl 2 meals from ¥12,800; paW) Fukudaya is a hip, stylish onsen hotel mixing Western and Japanese decor.

The rooms with private rotemburo are gorgeous, with milky water and decks

overlooking a small creek running below. The cafe-lounge in the lobby is a

chill hang-out spot, and meals – in small, private rooms – vary between

kaiseki and teppan-yaki of local wagyū.

o Kyūshū Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(九州ホテル; %0957-73-3234; www.kyushuhtl.co.jp; 320 Unzen; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥30,240; pnaiW)

Unzen’s jigoku make a dramatic backdrop for this eye-popping, ultra-luxe

‘mountain resort’, renovated in 2018 in the centre of the village. Behind the

contemporary garden courtyard sit a stylish lobby and tempting, Japanese-

Westernfusion rooms with walk-in closets and giant bathrooms with private

onsen. There’s beautiful wood and stone work throughout.

8 Information

Mt Unzen Visitors Centre (雲仙お山の情報館; %0957-73-3636;

www.unzenvc.com; 320 Unzen; h9am-6pm Fri-Wed mid-Jul–Aug, to 5pm Sep–mid-Jul) Has

information in English, and can store luggage for ¥300.

Unzen Tourist Association (雲仙観光協会; %0957-73-3434; 320 Unzen; h9am-5pm)

Town maps and accommodation bookings.

8 Getting There & Around

Three buses run daily between Nagasaki and Unzen (¥1800, one hour and 40

minutes). Unzen is also a stop on the more frequent bus route from

Shimabara (¥830, 54 minutes) to Isahaya (¥1350, one hour and 24 minutes),

with train connections to Nagasaki (¥460, 34 minutes).

Unzen town is so small you can walk to most of the major hotels. If you

want to get to the cable car or other hiking spots you’ll need a taxi (%0957-73-

2010).

DON’T MISS

BEST ONSEN

A Tamatebako Onsen Beachside sand bath in far-south Kagoshima.

A Takegawara Onsen Hot and historical onsen unchanged by time.

A Musō-en Atmospheric waters with lovely mountain views.

A Beppu Onsen Hoyōland Trudge through centuries-old mudbaths.

A Takeo Onsen Ancient onsen with private baths.

KUMAMOTO & AROUND

This beautiful region is firmly placed on the tourist map for its historic

towns, towering mountains, active volcanoes, grassland plateaus, river-cut

chasms and its bubbling hot springs (including one of our favourite spots:

Kurokawa Onsen).

The city of Kumamoto, known for its castle, is the main hub for central

Kyūshū. In 2016 the Kumamoto region experienced several severe

earthquakes that killed many people and destroyed thousands of homes. In

October, Aso-san (Mt Aso) erupted, further damaging the area. At the time

of writing, some sites and roads were still closed pending repair.

South of Aso-san, Takachiho is the mythical home of the sun goddess

Amaterasu. (Note that it’s not Takachiho-no-mine – Mt Takachiho – in

nearby Kagoshima; the two are often confused.)

Kumamoto 熊本

%096 / POP 737,812

Kumamoto (熊本) is deeply proud of its greatest landmark, Kumamoto-jō,

the castle around which the city radiates. Even though the castle suffered

significant damage in the April 2016 earthquake, it remains a focal point of

the city. There’s a lively and tempting collection of restaurants, bars and

shops in the busy arcades east of the castle .

Kumamoto City is also the gateway to the popular Aso-san region, known

for its cooler summer temperatures and impressive volcano.

The 2016 earthquakes resulted in several deaths, and severe damage to

roads and buildings in addition to Kumamoto-jō; damage to the castle alone

was estimated at ¥63.4 billion, and much of the castle and several nearby

buildings remain closed for restoration. They are set to reopen as work is

completed, but the dates are unclear; estimates are that some repairs will

take 20 years. The city’s tourism website (https://kumamoto-guide.jp) has

the latest information about site closures, in English.

Central Kumamoto

1 Top Sights

1 Kumamoto-jō

B1

4 Sleeping

2 Hotel Nikko Kumamoto

D2

3 Kumamoto Hotel Castle

C2

5 Eating

4 Kome no Kura

C3

5 Ramen Komurasaki

D1

6 Yokobachi

D1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

7 Andcoffeeroasters

D1

8 Good Time Charlie

C3

9 Vibes

C3

1 Sights

o Kumamoto-jō

CASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 熊本城; %096-322-5900; ¥500; h8.30am-6pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb) Dominating the skyline, Kumamoto’s robust castle is one of Japan’s best,

built in 1601–07 by daimyō Katō Kiyomasa, whose likeness is inescapable

around the castle (look for the distinctive tall pointed hat). From 1632 it was

the seat of the powerful Hosokawa clan. Unfortunately, the castle, many

outbuildings and much of the grounds are closed indefinitely due to

earthquake damage, but the site is still worth seeing from the street.

o Suizenji-jōjuen

GARDENS

(水前寺成趣園, Suizenji Park; www.suizenji.or.jp; 8-1 Suizenji-kōen; ¥400; h7.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 8.30am-5pm Nov-Feb; jSuizenji Park)

Southeast of the city centre, this photogenic lakeside garden was built

between 1636 and 1716 for the ruling Hosokawa clan. The main path

represents the 53 stations of the Tōkaidō (the feudal road that linked Tokyo

and Kyoto). The miniature Mt Fuji is instantly recognisable, though much of

the rest of the analogy is often lost in translation. Still, it’s a lovely walk

through groves of palms and hydrangeas and to a large Shintō shrine.

4 Sleeping

o Kumamoto Hotel Castle

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 熊本ホテルキャッスル; %096-326-3311; www.hotel-castle.co.jp; 4-

2 Jōtō-machi; s/d/tw from ¥10,100/17,820/19,000, r Japanese style ¥35,640; pnaW; jKumamoto

Castle/City Hall)

Pride of place goes to this upmarket hotel overlooking the castle, with

professional, friendly service, a beamed lobby ceiling inspired by its

namesake, and rooms in muted browns and whites. It has received many

VIPs, including imperial visitors, yet it’s not above letting staff wear cheery

Hawaiian shirts in Kumamoto’s hot summers. Request a castle-view room.

Hotel Nikko Kumamoto

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテル日航熊本; %096-211-1111; www.nikkokumamoto.co.jp; 2-1

Kamitōri-machi; s/d/tw from ¥17,820/47,520/32,080; pnaiW; jTorichō-suji)

The classic Japanese-hotel experience, Kumamoto’s premier place to stay

has crisply uniformed staff, minimalist-cool design, soothing marble, fine-

grained woods, and spacious rooms with big bathrooms and views to the

castle or Aso-san. It’s across from Tsuruya Department Store at the arcade

entrance.

5 Eating & Drinking

East of the castle, the Kamitōri and Shimotōri Arcades and vicinity are

happy grazing grounds for Japanese and foreign cuisines. Kumamoto is

famous for karashi-renkon (fried lotus root with mustard), Higo-gyū (Higo

beef) and the Chinese-inspired taipien (bean vermicelli soup with pork,

seafood and vegetables). However, the most popular dish seems to be

basashi (raw horsemeat). Note that some menus include whale meat ( kujira;

鯨).

Ramen Komurasaki

RAMEN

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 熊本ラーメンこむらさき; %096-325-8972; 8-16 Kamitōri; ramen

¥580-1030; h10am-4pm & 6-10pm)

This ramen joint is next to Yoshinoya at the northern end of the Kamitōri

Arcade. The signature ‘king ramen’ (¥700) is garlicky, cloudy Kumamoto-

style tonkotsu (pork) broth with bamboo shoots, julienned mushrooms, and

chāshū (sliced roast pork) so lean you’d think it had been working out.

o Kome no Kura

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 米乃蔵; %096-212-5551; 2nd fl, 1-6-27 Shimotōri; dishes ¥350-980; h5pm-midnight)

This black-walled, quietly chic izakaya, with cosy private booths and hori-

kotatsu (well in the floor for your feet) seating, has a whole menu of

Kumamoto specialities along with standard fare. Tsukune (chicken

meatballs) are served pressed around a bamboo skewer. Look for the red

‘dynamic kitchen’ on its square, black-and-white sign.

If you’re having trouble finding it, look for Docomo: it’s next door.

o Yokobachi

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %096-351-4581; 11-40 Kaminoura; small plates ¥480-1800; h5pm-midnight; jTōrichō-suji)

Yokobachi’s leafy courtyard and open kitchen are distinctive. Although

some menu translations are head-scratchers, stand-out small plates include

spicy tebasaki (chicken wings), Caesar salad with fried gobo (burdock root)

chips, taro croquettes, delicately fried mābō-doufu (‘bean curd Szechuan

style’), beef skewers and, if you dare, basashi (raw horsemeat; ¥880). There

are 13 shōchū liquors to choose from.

Reservations are recommended.

o Andcoffeeroasters

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %096-273-6178; www.andcoffeeroasters.com; 11-22 Kamitōri-machi; h8am-8pm)

Delightful boutique coffee shop with freshly roasted beans and a ‘tart of the

day’, such as persimmon or Earl Grey. Coffee nerds will feel right at home

with the rich lattes, creamy cappuccinos and other speciality espresso drinks.

It’s outside the northern end of the arcade.

o Good Time Charlie

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %096-324-1619; 5th fl, 1-7-24 Shimotōri; h8pm-2am Thu-Tue) Charlie Nagatani is a living legend, the ‘Johnny Cash of Japan’, the founding

figure behind the nation’s entire countrymusic scene, and an accomplished

musician and songwriter. He earned the rank of Kentucky Colonel for his

contributions to the world of country music (he runs the Country Gold

Festival near Aso-san), and this bar is his home base.

o Vibes

BAR

( MAP ; バイブス; %080-8350-9624; https://vibes222.wixsite.com/glocalvibes; 3rd fl, 1-5-6

Shimotōri; h8-11.30pm Mon-Sat; jKumamoto Castle/City Hall)

Come to this cool new ‘glocal’ bar for an immersive experience in shōchū,

Kyūshū’s signature tipple. Owner and bartender Nori-san is something of a

shōchū evangelist, and he’s got 120 bottles on hand, so there’s something for

every taste. Even the door handle, light fixtures and coat hooks are made

from old shōchū bottles.

8 Information

There are tourist-information desks at both JR Kumamoto Station (熊本駅

総合観光案内所; %096-352-3743; h8.30am-8pm) and Sakuranobaba Johsaien

(桜の馬場城彩苑総合観光案内所; %096-322-5060; h9am-5.30pm). Both locations

have English-speaking assistants and accommodation listings.

Kumamoto City International Centre (熊本市国際交流会館; %096-359-

2020; 4-18 Hanabata-chō; h9am-10pm, closed 2nd & 4th Mon of month; W; jHanabata-chō) has

free wi-fi, plus BBC News and English-language magazines, international-

themed classes and a cafe.

Visit www.kumamoto-icb.or.jp for city information.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Flights connect Aso-Kumamoto Airport (www.kmj-ab.co.jp) with Tokyo,

Osaka, Nagoya and Seoul. Buses to and from the airport stop at JR

Kumamoto Station (¥800, one hour), Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre bus terminal

(¥730, 50 minutes) and Suizenji Park (¥600, 30 minutes).

BOAT

Kumamoto Port is about 25 minutes by road from Kumamoto Station.

Kyūshō and Ocean Arrow ferries connect with Shimabara in Nagasaki

Prefecture.

BUS

Highway buses depart from the Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre bus terminal (熊

本交通センター; %096-325-0100; 7-20 Sakura-machi; h7am-9.30pm). Routes include

Fukuoka (¥2060, two hours), Kagoshima (¥3700, 3½ hours), Nagasaki

(¥3700, 3¼ hours) and Miyazaki (¥4630, three hours).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Renting a car (from about ¥5250 per 12 hours) is recommended for trips to

Aso and beyond. Rental services line the street across from JR Kumamoto

Station.

TRAIN

JR Kumamoto Station is an inconvenient few kilometres southwest of the

centre (though it’s an easy tram ride away). It’s a stop on the Kyūshū

shinkansen, with destinations including Kagoshima-Chūō (¥6740, 45

minutes), Fukuoka (Hakata Station; ¥4930, 35 minutes), Hiroshima

(¥13,340, 1¾ hours) and Shin-Osaka (¥18,340, 3¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Kumamoto’s tram service (Shiden) reaches the major sights for ¥170 per

ride. One-day tram passes (¥500) can be bought on board and offer

discounted admission to sights; use a coin to scratch off the day you’re

traveling. The tram’s two lines mostly travel the same route, but they diverge

south of the city centre, and only line A (red) goes to JR Kumamoto Station.

City buses are generally hard to manage without Japanese skills, with one

exception: the Castle Loop Bus (Shiromegurin; ¥160/400 per ride/day pass),

connecting the bus terminal with most sights in the castle area at least every

half hour between 9am and 5pm daily.

Aso-san 阿蘇山

%0967 / POP 26,549

Halfway between Kumamoto and Beppu lies the volcanic caldera of Aso-san

(阿蘇山). It’s the world’s third-largest (128km in circumference) and

strikingly beautiful, yet its scale is so big that it’s hard at first to

comprehend. Formed through a series of eruptions over the past 300,000

years, the current outer crater is about 90,000 years old and now

accommodates towns, villages and lush green farmland. Aso is the main

town, and nearby Uchinomaki has inns, shops and dining. To the southeast,

the town of Takamori is intimate and charming.

The Aso-san range is still active, and the summit is frequently off-limits

due to toxic gas emissions or strong winds. In October 2016 the volcano had

a major eruption, resulting in severe damage to surrounding areas. Be sure to

check the latest access information with the tourist centre or at

www.aso.ne.jp before planning a trip.

Aso-San Area

1 Top Sights

1 Naka-dake Crater

C5

1 Sights

2 Aso Volcano Museum

B5

3 Aso-jinja

D3

4 Daikanbō Lookout

C1

5 Sensui Gorge

D4

6 Shiroyama Tembōjō Lookout

D2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Kusasenri

B5

8 Saga Aviation

B5

9 Sunasenri

C5

4 Sleeping

10 Aso Base Backpackers

C3

11 Shukubō Aso

C3

5 Eating

Michi no Eki Aso

(see 10)

12 Oshimaya Kagu Cafe

B2

13 Takamori Dengaku-no-Sato

D6

Yamaichi

(see 12)

8 Transport

14 Mt Aso Ropeway Station

C5

15 Toyota Rent-a-Car

C3

1 Sights

If you’re driving, Daikanbō Lookout ( MAP ; 大観峰; p) is one of the best

places to view the region from on high, although it’s often crowded with tour

buses. Shiroyama Tembōjō (城山展望所; Yamanami Hwy) is an appealing

alternative.

o Naka-dake Crater

VOLCANO

( MAP ; 中岳; www.aso.ne.jp)

Naka-dake (1506m) is Aso’s active volcano – very active in recent years,

with fatal eruptions in 1958 and 1979, and other significant eruptions in

1989, 1990, 1993 and 2016. Access to the crater area may be closed when

there’s an increase in volcanic activity, such as dangerous sulphurous-gas

emissions. Check the website for current conditions. People with asthma,

bronchitis or head colds are advised to stay away.

If you make it to the top, you’ll be rewarded by stark rock faces and a

fluorescentgreen lake inside the 100m-deep crater. With waters bubbling and

steaming below, the crater varies in width from 400m to 1100m, and there’s

a walk around the southern edge of the rim. Arrive early in the morning to

glimpse a sea of clouds hovering inside the crater, with Kujū-san (1791m) on

the horizon.

A cable car served the crater until the most recent eruption, but operations

have since been suspended. Nowadays, it’s ¥800 for parking; alternatively,

you can park at the former cable-car station and hike up in about 30 minutes,

or take a shuttle bus (¥1200 return).

The most expensive, and perhaps most thrilling, way to see the crater is

from way above, in a plane operated by Saga Aviation.

Aso-gogaku

MOUNTAIN

(阿蘇五岳)

The Five Mountains of Aso are the smaller mountains within the Aso-san

caldera’s outer rim: Eboshi-dake (1337m); Kijima-dake (1321m); Naka-dake

(1506m); Neko-dake (1408m), furthest east; and the highest, Taka-dake

(1592m). Access roads were damaged in the 2016 earthquakes and at the

time of writing were in the process of being repaired, although some areas

may be closed due to toxic gas emissions.

Kamishikimi-Kumanoimasu-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

(上色見熊野座神社; 269 Kamishikimi; h24hr; p) F

This gorgeous hilltop shrine and ‘power spot’ was pretty much left alone

until it became the model for the set of the popular 2011 anime film

Hotarubi no Mori e. It’s easy to see why directors chose it. You ascend the

approximately 230 (some uneven) steps along a lantern-lined path through

an old-growth cedar forest to the main shrine. Continuing uphill (phew!),

you eventually reach the ridge and a massive natural stone formation, with

an opening (to heaven?) peeking through.

The shrine is about 6km from central Takamori, along Rte 265. Look for

the post office across from the base of the stairs and a car park shortly

thereafter.

Sensui Gorge

GORGE

( MAP ; 仙酔峡, Sensui-kyō)

In mid-May this gorge boasts a dramatic carpet of azalea blooms. Ask at

tourist-information offices about trail conditions before setting out. Due to

earthquake damage in 2016, this area had been inaccessible but was

scheduled to reopen in spring 2019.

Aso-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 阿蘇神社; 3083-1 Miyaji, Ichinomiya) F

Dedicated to the 12 gods of the mountain, this shrine, including its revered

gate, suffered severe damage in the 2016 earthquakes; photos show the scale

of the destruction. Some of the buildings are being gradually repaired and

will reopen when rebuilt, but full completion isn’t expected until 2030.

People still come for the drinking water, which is so delicious that visitors

fill canteens to take home.

The shrine is a 1.3km walk north of JR Miyaji Station.

Aso Volcano Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 阿蘇火山博物館; %0967-34-2111; www.asomuse.jp; 1930-1 Akamizu; ¥860, parking

¥410; h9am-5pm; p)

This old-school museum has exhibits and dioramas about Aso, volcanos in

general and the sometimes fraught relationship locals have with the volcano

system. A free English-language audio guide describes the exhibits, video on

a parabolic screen tells the story of the caldera’s creation some 19,000 years

ago, and you can see a real-time video feed from inside Naka-dake crater.

Other exhibits cover the flora, fauna and customs of the region.

2 Activities

Saga Aviation

SCENIC FLIGHTS

( MAP ; %0967-35-5030; www.sgc-air.co.jp/sightseeing/sightseeing_price; 3/7min flight

¥5000/10,000; h10am-5pm Fri-Mon)

If you’ve got nerves of steel, this outfit will take you soaring over the Aso

caldera and Naka-dake by helicopter. Cheap it isn’t, but it’s a good rush, the

views are simply breathtaking, and it’s often the only way to see Naka-dake

when it’s off-limits to earthbound travellers. Flights are first come, first

served, so arrive early.

The heliport is on the side of the road between the Aso Volcano Museum and

Nakadake. Flights may be cancelled due to poor weather or volcanic activity.

Aso Kujyu Cycle Tour

CYCLING

(阿蘇くじゅうサイクルツアー; %090-8666-1006; www.aso-cycletour.com; 2½/5hr tours

per person ¥6000/10,000)

This outfit offers a variety of cycling tours around the caldera, featuring

friendly guides. There’s no English on the website at the time of writing, but

the welcoming owners make it work both for phone reservations and on the

road.

Hiking

Although the Aso area has a wealth of walking and trekking routes, many

were damaged by the 2016 earthquake and were in various stages of repair at

research time. Others may become temporarily off-limits due to weather and

volcanic conditions such as noxious gases. Be sure to check with tourism

authorities before setting out.

If Naka-dake is accessible, you can walk around the crater rim and on to

Takadake (a round trip of around 4½ to five hours). Or take the trail between

Taka-dake and Neko-dake and on to Miyaji, the next train station east of

Aso.

Shorter walks in the area include the easy ascent of Kijima-dake from the

Aso Volcano Museum, about 25 minutes to the top. You can then return to

the museum or take the branch trail toward Naka-dake. The walk around the

grassy plain of Kusasenri ( MAP ; 草千里) takes about one hour, and can be

combined with a climb to the top of Eboshi-dake (about 80 minutes).

Kusasenri’s sandier counterpart, Sunasenri ( MAP ; 砂千里), is en route to

Naka-dake.

If you’re in the southeastern section of the caldera, the Shintō shrine

Kamishikimi-Kumanoimasu-jinja is a profoundly spiritual place up the side

of a mountain (some 200 steps get you there).

4 Sleeping

Aso Base Backpackers

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 阿蘇ベースバックパッカーズ; %0967-34-0408; www.aso-backpackers.com;

1498 Kurokawa; dm/s/tw/d without bathroom ¥2800/5500/6000/6600; hclosed early Jan-late Feb;

pnaiW)

A quick walk from JR Aso Station, this clean, modern, popular 30-bed

hostel has English signage, a balcony with mountain views, a coin laundry,

warm staff, and information about transport and sights. There are bicycles

and motor-scooters for rent. Toilets, sinks and showers are down the hall; for

baths, owners can direct you to nearby onsen.

Shukubō Aso

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

( MAP ; 宿坊あそ; %0967-34-0194; 1076 Kurokawa; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥12,000;

paW)

Less than 500m from Aso Station, this lovely, rustic ryokan in a 300-year-

old samurai house has modern touches and a tree-lined setting. Its 12 rooms

have private toilet and shared bathroom, and a dinner of local meats and fish

is served around an irori (hearth). It’s near pretty Saiganden-ji temple, which

dates from AD 726. (Note: it’s not nonsmoking.)

5 Eating

The area’s specialities include akaushi (beef from local cows), dangojiru

(dumpling soup), takana gohan (rice with mustard greens) and horse meat,

most commonly served as basashi (raw). Eateries and food shops cluster

around Hwy 57 near JR Aso Station; there are more in Uchinomaki and

Takamori. Many restaurants open only for lunch, so unless you have dinner

plans at your inn it’s worth stocking up on snacks or bentō (boxed meals).

Yamaichi

STEAK, JAPANESE

¥

( MAP ; やまいち; %0967-32-2511; 235 Uchinomaki; mains ¥500-600, set meal ¥1700; h11am-

4pm)

Aso akaushi (beef from local brown cows) is prized for its relatively low fat

content. Get it here sliced over donburi (rice bowl). Set meals come with

dangojiru (local dumpling soup) and takana gohan (rice with mustard

greens). While other steak places have salad bars, Yamaichi stands out for its

tsukemono (pickle) bar, with a dozen colourful house-made varieties.

Oshimaya Kagu Cafe

CAFE

¥

( MAP ; おしま屋家具カフェ; %0967-32-0041; 365 Uchinomaki; smoothies ¥450, dessert

sets from ¥600; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun, closed 3rd Thu of month)

At this retro cafe you can sample coffees, cakes, smoothies and Aso-made

ice creams while sitting on designy mid-century furniture ( kagu in

Japanese). Look for the giant metal chair on the corner just outside.

Oshimaya also has an adorable gift shop.

o Takamori Dengaku-no-Sato

GRILL

¥¥

( MAP ; 高森田楽の里; %0967-62-1899; 2685-2 Ōaza-Takamori; set meals ¥1790-2850;

h10am-7.30pm late Mar-Nov, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun Dec-late Mar; p)

At this fantastic thatch-roofed ex-farmhouse the staff use oven mitts to grill

dengaku (skewers of vegetables, meat including Aso beef, fish and tofu

covered in the namesake dengaku: sweet miso paste) at your own irori

embedded in the floor. It’s a few minutes by car or taxi (about ¥600) from

central Takamori. Cash only.

After lunch, stop by the restaurant’s gift shop and cafe. Its atmospheric

building was a Meiji period rice dealer’s shop.

8 Information

MONEY

Post office (h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ATM 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 12.30pm Sun) With

ATM; lies 100m south of the tourist office, across Hwy 57.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Center (道の駅阿蘇施設案内所, Michi no Eki Aso; %0967-

35-5077; 1440-1 Kurokawa; h9am-6pm; W) Inside Michi no Eki Aso ( MAP ; 道の駅阿

蘇; 1440-1 Kurokawa; h9am-6pm; pW), next to JR Aso Station, this helpful centre

offers free road and hiking maps, and local information in English, as well as

coin lockers.

8 Getting There & Away

Aso lies on the JR Hōhi line between Kumamoto and Ōita, but at the time of

writing trains from Kumamoto were not running all the way to Aso and were

ending at Higo-Ōzu (¥2980, 3¼ hours) due to earthquake damage. Trains

from Beppu do end in Aso (¥3050, 1¾ hours). Check the JR Kyushu website

(www.jrkyushu.co.jp) for the latest conditions.

There is currently no Aso–Takamori train service. Buses from Takamori

continue southeast to Takachiho (¥1320, 80 minutes, two daily).

Ōita-bound Yamabiko buses (¥1250, two hours, seven daily) run between

Kumamoto Station and Aso Station (also stopping at Higo-Ōzu).

Buses usually operate every one to two hours from JR Aso Station via the

volcano museum to Aso-nishi cable-car station (¥650, 40 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Best explored by car, the Aso-san region offers fabulous drives, diverse

scenery and peaceful retreats. Routes 57, 265 and 325 encircle the outer

caldera. The JR Hōhi line has historically run from Kumamoto across the

northwestern section of the park, but it was closed due to earthquake damage

and at research time a re-opening date had not been set. In the meantime,

buses serve the Kumamoto–Aso route.

Conditions permitting, buses travel to the summit of Naka-dake. They

stop at Mt Aso Ropeway Station ( MAP ; 阿蘇山ロープウェー; 808-5

Kurokawa; 1 way/round trip ¥750/1200; h8.30am-6pm mid-Mar–Oct, 8.30am-5pm Nov, 9am-5pm

Dec–mid-Mar); the ropeway was closed indefinitely at research time.

Rent electric bikes at JR Aso Station (¥400 for two hours), or cars at

Toyota Rent-a-Car ( MAP ; %096-735-5511; per day from ¥5600; h8am-6pm), adjacent to

the train station (reserve in advance).

Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉

%0967 / POP 1700

Nestled on either side of a steep gorge about one hour northeast of Aso

town, tranquil Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) is one of Japan’s prettiest hot-

spring villages and has won top onsen honours year after year. Safely

secluded from the rest of the world, it’s the perfect spot to experience what

an onsen ryokan getaway is all about.

It’s well worth an overnight in Kurokawa Onsen for a relaxing stay, but

for day trippers a nyūtō tegata (onsen passport; ¥1300) allows access to three

baths among the town’s 24 ryokan (open 8.30am to 9pm). Buy the pass at

the tourist information desk and ask which locations are open during your

visit.

Favourite baths include Yamamizuki, Kurokawa-sō and Shimmei-kan,

with cave baths and riverside rotemburo (Kurokawa is especially famous for

its rotemburo). Many places offer konyoku (mixed bathing) alongside

women-only baths.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Kurokawa’s onsen ryokan aren’t cheap, but this isn’t an experience you’ll

have every day. English is spoken to varying degrees. Many ryokan are a

short walk across the gorge from Kurokawa Onsen’s bus stop and tourist

information centre, while some others can arrange pick-up from there.

If you’re staying overnight, plan on eating ryokan meals. If you’re a day

visitor, note that there are few lunch places and they often close promptly.

o Sanga Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(山河旅館; %0967-44-0906; www.sanga-ryokan.com; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥16,350; paW)

Deep in the gorge, this romantic riverside ryokan is worth the 1.5km trip

from the town centre for peace and pampering. Seven atmospheric common

baths (in stone, cypress and more), 16 deluxe rooms (some with private

onsen), exquisite kaiseki meals, attention to detail, heartfelt service and

English-speaking staff make this a prime place to experience Japanese

hospitality.

Okyakuya Ryokan

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(御客屋旅館; %0967-44-0454; www.okyakuya.jp; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥15,270; paW)

At Kurokawa Onsen’s oldest ryokan (in its seventh generation, run since

1722, though rebuilt in the mid-20th century) all 10 rooms have a rustic

atmosphere and share onsen. The riverside rotemburo (enclosed for privacy)

has a sound of rushing water that’s enough to refresh you on its own. Some

staff speak English.

8 Information

MONEY

There’s no ATM in Kurokawa Onsen, so prepare accordingly.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Desk (黒川温泉旅館組合, Ryokan Association; %0967-44-

0076; www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp; Kurokawa-sakura-dōri; h9am-6pm) Sells the nyūtō tegata (onsen passport; ¥1300) and dispenses friendly, helpful information. Signage

around town points the way to inns and baths in Japanese and English.

8 Getting There & Away

Experiencing this area is most enjoyable by car, but several daily buses

connect Kurokawa Onsen with Aso (¥990, one hour) and Kumamoto

(¥2060, 2½ hours). A couple also travel to Beppu (¥2980, 2½ hours) via

Yufuin (¥2370). Check timetables if you intend to make this a day trip.

These durations reflect route changes due to earthquake damage.

You can also take a three-hour express bus from Hakata Station (and the

airport, too) for ¥3090; there are two departures in the morning and two from

Kurokawa Onsen in the afternoon.

KUJŪ-SAN

Tucked in Ōita Prefecture’s southwestern corner lies its biggest mountain range, collectively

known as Kujū-san, a favourite for hikers and mountaineering clubs. Accessed by car either

from Ōita or from Kumamoto (via Aso National Park), it offers more than 20 peaks, including

the island’s highest, Naka-dake (1791m). Because of this, the range is known as the ‘rooftop of

Kyūshū’. One of the most popular climbs is from Makinotoi-tōge, which is an easy day hike

thanks to access via a circuitous yet lovely road that goes most of the way. It’s more peopled

than other peak ascents. From there the avid can hike all the way to Naka-dake. The Aso Kujū-

Kōgen Youth Hostel (阿蘇くじゅう高原ユースホステル; %0967-44-0157;

www.asokujuuyh.sakura.ne.jp; 6332 Senomoto; dm/r per person from ¥3000/3800, HI discount

¥600; pnaiW) near Kurokawa Onsen is a good base camp for excursions.

Takachiho 高千穂

%0982 / POP 12,300

In far northern Miyazaki Prefecture, the pretty mountain town of Takachiho

(高千穂) is a remote but rewarding destination. There’s a deep and dramatic

gorge through the town centre, around which legend has it that Japan’s sun

goddess brought light back to the world, a story retold nightly through

ancient performance art.

Takachiho

1 Top Sights

1 Ama-no-Iwato-jinja

D1

2 Takachiho Gorge

B2

1 Sights

3 Takachiho-jinja

A2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Row Boats

A2

5 Takachiho Amaterasu Railway

B1

4 Sleeping

6 Solest Takachiho Hotel

B2

7 Takachiho Youth Hostel

C2

5 Eating

8 Chiho-no-ie

A2

9 Nagomi

B2

1 Sights

o Ama-no-Iwato-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 天岩戸神社; 1073-1 Iwato; h24hr, office 8.30am-5pm; p) F

One of Shintō’s loveliest shrines honours the cave where the goddess

Amaterasu hid. The cave itself is off-limits, but Nishi Hongū (the shrine’s

main building) sits right across the Iwatogawa. Ask a staff member to show

you the viewpoint behind the honden (main hall). Local ‘Fureai’ buses leave

approximately hourly (¥300, 20 minutes) from Takachiho’s Miyakō bus

centre.

An approximately 10-minute walk beside a picturesque stream takes you

to Ama-no-Yasukawara, a deep cave where tradition says that thousands of

other deities discussed how to lure Amaterasu from the cave. Modern-day

visitors have left innumerable ishizumi (stacks of stones) in tribute,

imparting a sort of Indiana Jones feeling.

o Takachiho Gorge

GORGE

( MAP ; 高千穂峡, Takachiho-kyō)

Takachiho’s magnificent gorge, with its waterfall, overhanging rocks and

sheer walls, was formed over 120,000 years ago by a double volcanic

eruption. There’s a 1km-long nature trail above the gorge. Alternatively,

view it up close from a row boat (貸しボート; %0982-73-1213; per 30min for up to 3

adults per boat ¥2000; h8am-5pm), though during high season it can be as busy as

rush hour. For a different perspective, try the open-topped tourist train.

Takachiho Gorge | KITINUT JINAPUCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Takachiho-jinja

SHINTO SHRINE

( MAP ; 高千穂神社)

About 10 minutes’ walk from the bus centre, Takachiho-jinja is dramatically

set in a grove of cryptomeria pines, including one that’s over 800 years old.

Some of the buildings here look as though they could almost be the same

age. Yokagura performances are held nightly in the Kaguraden hall.

DON’T MISS

KAGURA AT TAKACHIHO

Takachiho’s artistic claim to fame is kagura (sacred dance). Hour-long night-time yokagura

performances are held nightly at Takachiho-jinja. In addition, special performances take place

during festivals on 3 May and 21 September at Ama-no-Iwato-jinja, where you’ll also find

10am–10pm marathon performances each 3 November.

From November to February there are all-night performances (satokagura) in farmhouses on

some 19 nights mostly from 6pm until 9am the next morning. In all, 33 dances are performed. If

you brave the cold until morning, you’ll be caught up in a wave of excitement. Contact the

tourist information office for details.

2 Activities

Takachiho Amaterasu Railway

RAIL

( MAP ; 高千穂あまてらす鉄道; %0982-72-3216; www.amaterasu-railway.jp; Takachiho Station, 1425-1 Mitai; adult ¥1300, student ¥400-800; hdepartures 9.40am-3.40pm, closed 3rd Thu of

month; c)

After the local JR line was decommissioned and sat unused for years, some

smart entrepreneurs converted it into a tourist railway. Nowadays, a pink-

striped, open-topped (partly glass-bottomed), 30-passenger train leaves the

former Takachiho Station on 5.1km, 30-minute rides. Passengers enjoy

views across rice terraces to the distant mountains, and the train stops on

Japan’s tallest rail bridge, 105m above Takachiho Gorge.

There are 10 departures a day, with additional departures during peak

seasons and on weekends and holidays March to November. Reservations

not accepted. Operations may be suspended due to bad weather.

z Festivals & Events

Yokagura

DANCE

(夜神楽; Takachiho-jinja; tickets ¥700; h8pm)

Designated an important intangible folk property of Japan, these night-time

kagura (sacred dance) performances are held in the Kagura-den (Kagura

Hall) at Takachihojinja. Reception opens at 7pm; it’s cash only, and no

reservations are accepted. Arrive early for your choice of seats.

JAPAN’S SUN GODDESS

According to Shintō legend, the sun goddess Amaterasu, angered by the misbehaviour of her

brother, exiled herself into a cave sealed by a boulder, plunging the world into darkness.

Alarmed, other gods gathered at another nearby cave to discuss how to get her to re-emerge.

Eventually the goddess Ame-no-Uzume performed a bawdy dance that aroused Amaterasu’s

curiosity; she emerged from the cave, and light was restored to the earth. Iwato kagura dances

performed in Takachiho today re-enact this story.

4 Sleeping

Takachiho has about 30 hotels, ryokan, minshuku and pensions. Reserve

early during festivals and the autumn foliage season.

Takachiho Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP ; 高千穂ユースホステル; %0982-72-3021; www.jyh.or.jp/e/i.php?jyhno=8602; 5899-2 Mitai; dm HI member/nonmember ¥2800/3400; pnai)

This large hostel is far from the sights, but it’s clean, efficient and deep in

the woods. Rooms are Japanese style, with breakfast on offer (¥500);

laundry machines are available, as is pick-up from the bus centre if you call

ahead.

o Solest Takachiho Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP ; ソレスト高千穂ホテル; %0982-83-0001; www.solest-takachiho.jp; 1261-1 Mitai; s/d/tw from ¥9000/14,980/16,500; paW)

Crisp, comfy and contemporary, this stylish new hotel sits behind a black-

box facade. Most of its 68 rooms are Western style (twin-bed rooms are

significantly larger than doubles and have separate bathing and toilet areas),

and all have rain showers and decent-size bathtubs.

5 Eating

Takachiho beef is much admired in Japan and available throughout town.

Also popular is the Kyūshū speciality nagashi-sōmen (flowing noodles).

Daytime restaurants and cafes dot the town centre, especially on Kodono-

dōri, behind the tourist office. If you’re not having dinner in your inn, there

are several izakaya to choose from.

Chiho-no-ie

NOODLES

¥

( MAP ; 千穂の家; %0982-72-2115; 62-1 Mukoyama; sōmen ¥500, set meals from ¥1500; h9am-

5pm; p)

At the base of the gorge (though, sadly, with no water views), this simple

building serves nagashi-sōmen (flowing noodles) – have fun catching them

with your chopsticks as they whoosh by in spring water through shafts of

halved bamboo, then dip them in sauce to eat. Of the restaurant’s three

buildings, you want the one with the large fish pools in front.

o Nagomi

STEAK

¥¥

( MAP ; 和; %0982-73-1109; 1099-1 Mitai; set menus lunch ¥1700-3000, dinner ¥2600-11,000;

h11am-2.30pm & 5-9pm, closed 2nd Wed of month; p)

Operated by the local agricultural collaborative, this large, spotless, rustic-

modern restaurant offers set menus featuring awardwinning Takachiho beef.

Be sure to say ‘hi’ to the full-size statues of beloved, now-departed bovines

standing outside. Look for the charcoal-grey roof off Kodono-dōri or follow

the signs to Gamadase Ichiba (がまだせ市場, Gamadase Market) next

door, where local farm folk sell produce.

8 Information

Michi-no-Eki Tourist Information Booth (道の駅観光案内所; %098-272-

4680; www.takachiho-kanko.jp; 1296-5 Mitai; h8.30am-5.30pm) A well-stocked tourist info counter with friendly staff who can assist with making day plans or

reservations.

Town Centre Information Office (町中案内所; %0982-72-3031; 802-3 Mitai;

h8.30am-5.30pm) Across from the bus station, this office has helpful staff and a

variety of maps, brochures, info, postcards and souvenirs. You can also rent

bicycles and cars here, and staff can assist with lodging reservations and

restaurant advice.

8 Getting There & Away

Remote Takachiho is most easily reached by car from the Aso-san area in

Kumamoto Prefecture. Two buses daily serve Takachiho’s Miyakō bus

centre (高千穂宮交バスセンター; %0982-72-4133; 804 Mitai) from Kumamoto

(¥2370, 3½ hours), usually via Takamori (¥1320, 1¼ hours), plus there’s one

bus from Miyazaki (¥2500, three hours). There are no trains into Takachiho.

8 Getting Around

From the bus centre the gorge and Takachiho-jinja are within walking

distance, but you’ll need transport to reach other sights. Buses are

infrequent, but the town-centre information office rents out electric bicycles

(useful for the many hills; ¥300/1500 per hour/day) and can help with rental

cars. If your time is limited, taxis can be chartered, starting at ¥6000 for 90

minutes.

OITA PREFECTURE

In northeast Kyūshū, Ōita Prefecture (大分県) is synonymous with onsen. It

has two of the country’s most famous hot spring resorts: Beppu and Yufuin.

Less well known are the impressive Buddhist sites of the remote Kunisaki

Peninsula and, south of Beppu, in Usuki.

8 Getting There & Around

Oita Airport, where you can pick up a rental car, is on the coast of the

Kunisaki Peninsula. For public transport, Beppu is a regional hub, with rail

access to other parts of Kyūshū. If you’re coming here directly from Honshū,

it’s better to transfer at Kokura, in the city of Kitakyūshū, rather than going

all the way to Hakata Station (in Fukuoka).

Beppu 別府

%0977 / POP 122,643

You don’t have to look far in Beppu (別府) to see the reason for its

popularity: steam rising from vents in the earth means there are onsen-

bathing opportunities galore. Beppu is by turns quaint and touristy, modern

and traditional, solid and rickety, but the charm of this hilly, hospitable city

grows on visitors as sure as the waters are balmy. Winter visitors get the

seasonal treat of seeing the entire town filled with warm escaping steam.

Beppu is also one of Kyūshū’s more international cities, thanks to the

large foreignstudent population at Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University,

locally known as APU.

Beppu

1 Top Sights

1 Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre

B4

1 Sights

2 Chi-no-ike Jigoku

B1

3 Tatsumaki Jigoku

B1

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Kaihin Sand Bath

D3

5 Eating

5 Tomonaga Panya

D7

1 Sights

o Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 別府市竹細工伝統産業会館; %0977-23-1072;

www.city.beppu.oita.jp; 8-3 Higashi-sōen; ¥300; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

You may be blown away by the versatility of bamboo, which grows

copiously in the Beppu region. In the ground-floor gallery, intricate, refined

pieces span workers’ baskets to museum-quality art, made by Edo-period

artisans and modern masters. Upstairs, try crafting bamboo yourself (from

¥400, depending on the complexity of the item), with a reservation at least a

week ahead. A new, modernist-minimalist shop and cafe sells bamboo toys,

tableware, baskets and handbags, priced from inexpensive to head-spinning.

From Beppu Station, take bus 22 or 25 to Takezaiku-densankan-mae or

bus 1 to Minami-baru (about 200m away).

Onsen Hells

HOT SPRINGS

(温泉地獄, Onsen Jigoku; single/combination ticket ¥400/2000; h8am-5pm)

Beppu’s most-hyped attraction is the jigoku meguri (‘hell circuit’; groups of

boiling hot springs), where waters bubble forth from below the ground with

unusual results. The circuit’s eight stops have become mini amusement

parks, each with a theme and some loaded with tourist kitsch; consider

yourself warned. The hells are in two groups: six at Kannawa, over 4km

northwest of Beppu Station, and two about 2.5km further north. Note: the

combination ticket does not include Kannawa’s Yama Jigoku ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 山地獄, Mountain Hell; %0977-66-0647; http://yamajigoku.com; 6-kumi Miyuki Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm).

In the Kannawa group are steaming blue Umi Jigoku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 海地獄, Sea Hell; %0977-66-0121; 559-1 Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm); Oniishibōzu

Jigoku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鬼石坊主地獄, Demon Monk Hell; %0977-27-6655; 559-1

Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm), where the bubbling mud looks like a monk’s shaved

head; Shira-ike Jigoku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 白池地獄, White Pond Hell; %0977-66-0530; 278 Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm); and Kamado Jigoku ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; かま

ど地獄; Oven Hell; %0977-66-0178; http://kamadojigoku.com; 621 Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm), so named because it was once used for cooking ( kamado means stove in

Japanese). At Oni-yama Jigoku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鬼山地獄, Devil’s Mountain Hell; %0977-67-1500; 625 Kannawa; ¥400; h8am-5pm) and Yama Jigoku (山地獄,

Mountain Hell; MAP ; %0977-66-0647; http://yamajigoku.com; 6-kumi Miyuki Kannawa; ¥400;

h8am-5pm), a variety of animals are kept in enclosures that look uncomfortably

small. To get here, take a bus from Beppu Station to Umi-Jigoku-mae

(¥330).

The smaller group of hells has Chi-no-ike Jigoku ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 血の

池地獄; Blood Pool Hell; 778 Noda; ¥400; h8am-5pm), named for the blood (chi) red

of its photogenic water, and Tatsumaki Jigoku ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 龍巻地獄, Tornado Hell; %0977-66-1854; 782 Noda; ¥400; h8am-5pm), where a geyser shoots off

about every 35 minutes.

Kannawa Hells Area

1 Sights

1 Kamado Jigoku

B1

2 Oniishibōzu Jigoku

A2

3 Oni-yama Jigoku

B1

4 Shira-ike Jigoku

B1

5 Umi Jigoku

A2

6 Yama Jigoku

A2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

7 Kannawa Mushi-yu

D1

4 Sleeping

8 Yanagi-ya

D1

5 Eating

9 Enma

D2

2 Activities

Beppu has eight onsen districts, Beppu Hattō

(www.city.beppu.oita.jp/01onsen/english/index.html). Onsen aficionados

spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another and consider at

least three baths a day de rigueur; bathing costs from ¥100 to ¥1000. Bring

your own soap, wash cloth and towel, as some places don’t rent them.

o Takegawara Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 竹瓦温泉; %0977-23-1585; 16-23 Moto-machi; ¥100, sand bath ¥1030; h6.30am-10.30pm, sand bath 8am-9.30pm, sand bath closed 3rd Wed of month)

On the south side of Beppu’s downtown commercial district, this classic

onsen dates from the Meiji era and is a local icon. Its bath is very simple and

very hot; scoop out water with a bucket, pour it over yourself, and jump in!

It also has a relaxing sand bath where a yukata (light cotton kimono) is

provided.

The sand bath involves lying down in a shallow trench and being buried

up to your neck in heated sand, followed by an onsen dip and a shower. The

process takes about 40 minutes.

o Beppu Onsen Hoyōland

ONSEN

(別府温泉保養ランド; %0977-66-2221; 5-1 Myōban; ¥1100; h9am-8pm)

These rustic 1960s-era shacks a few kilometres out of town lead to giant,

open-air mud baths said to date from the 8th century. Although men’s and

women’s changing facilities are separate and mud will generally cover your

most intimate areas, it’s wise to take a towel for certain locations if you

value your privacy.

Myōban Yunosato

ONSEN

(明礬湯の里; %0977-66-8166; www.yuno-hana.jp; 6-kumi Myōban Onsen; ¥600; h10am-9pm)

On a hillside east of the city centre is this beautiful, rustic, gender-separate

stone rotemburo (outdoor bath) with lovely views up and down. Nearby are

thatched huts where onsen minerals are harvested using mid-18th-century

methods into yunohana bath powder, which is available for purchase. The

minerals accumulate inside the huts at a rate of 1mm per day.

Kannawa Mushi-yu

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 鉄輪蒸し湯; %0977-67-3880; 1-kumi Kannawa-kami; ¥510; h6.30am-8pm)

Downhill from Kannawa bus stop is Kannawa Mushi-yu, a super-heated

room where wrapped in a yukata you’ll steam at 65°C (ow!) on top of

Japanese rush leaves. Eight to 10 minutes here is said to have the detoxifying

power of up to 30 minutes in a sauna.

Kaihin Sand Bath

ONSEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 海浜砂湯; %0977-66-5737; 9-kumi Shōnin-ga-hama; ¥1030; h8.30am-6pm Mar-Nov, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb)

Between JR Beppu Station and the Kamegawa onsen area, this sand bath is

at the very popular Shōnin-ga-hama beach; it has a great location, and some

English is spoken. It closes early if the wait gets too long, so go sooner in the

day to make sure you don’t miss out.

4 Sleeping

Beppu is a dense town with a large variety of accommodation options. Be

aware that rooms facing even the side streets can be noisy, as the city’s

nightlife is boisterous and doesn’t end until the wee hours.

Guest House Rojiura

GUESTHOUSE

¥

( MAP ; ゲストハウス路地裏; %0977-25-0100; www.gh-rojiura.com; 9-14 Ekimae-chō; dm/s/d/tr from ¥3000/4000/7000/9000; pnaiW)

This spanking-new guesthouse sits on a quiet side street near Beppu Station.

Spotless, bunk-bedded dorms are mixed and female only, and there are some

windowless private rooms. No meals are offered, but there is free coffee, tea

and water, and an entire wall of manga. Showers are available, or staff will

direct you to nearby onsen.

Cabosu House Beppu

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かぼすハウス別府; %0977-80-1315;

www.facebook.com/cabosuhouse; 1-25 Minamimatogahama-chō; dm/s from ¥2000/3000; pnaiW) There’s new-wave decor at this hostel, which is spread over two buildings

about a two-minute walk from each other. There’s an English-speaking staff,

a well-stocked bar on the ground floor and some pleasant common areas for

making friends. Doors are locked after 9pm, but you can enter with a code.

The older building also has its own hot-spring bath.

In the newer building, all rooms have toilet and shower.

o Yanagi-ya

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP ; 柳家; %0977-66-4414; www.beppuyanagiya.jp; 2-kumi Kannawa-ida; s/d from

¥7560/10,800; pnaW)

In a former Meiji-period curative spa, this intimate, dark-wood ryokan

makes great use of Beppu’s healing waters. Rooms (some with beds, others

with futons; some with private facilities) are heated with onsen steam, and

meals (Japanese or Italian) are cooked in onsen water (lunch ¥1400 to

¥2700, dinner from ¥5000); try cooking your own if you like.

o Yamada Bessou

RYOKAN

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山田別荘; %0977-24-2121; www.yamadabessou.jp; 3-2-18 Kitahama; r per person with/without breakfast from ¥7500/6500; pnaW)

This sprawling, family-run 1930s inn has wonderfully preserved Japanese

rooms and well-chosen art and furnishings evoking periods from art deco to

today. The stone-and-tile onsen and private rotemburo are so lovely you’ll

hardly mind that only a couple of the eight rooms have full bath and toilet;

two others have toilet only.

If you’d like to drop by just to use the baths, day use is ¥500 to ¥700;

baths are open 11am to 3pm.

o Beppu Hotel Umine

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 別府ホテルうみね; %0977-26-0002; www.hotelumine.com; 3-8-3

Kitahama; r per person incl breakfast from ¥17,280; pnaW)

In-room onsen with water views, gorgeous common baths, savvy

contemporary design, excellent restaurants and oodles of personal service

make this Beppu’s top stay. Rates are expensive but include snacks in the

library lounge.

Central Beppu

1 Sights

Beppu Tower

(see 13)

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Oita Kōtsū Bus

B2

2 Takegawara Onsen

C3

4 Sleeping

3 Beppu Hotel Umine

D1

4 Cabosu House Beppu

B1

5 Guest House Rojiura

B2

6 Yamada Bessou

C1

5 Eating

7 Fugu Matsu

C1

8 Genova

C2

9 Gyōza Kogetsu

C2

10 Toyotsune Beppu Ekimae-ten

B2

11 Toyotsune Honten

D2

6 Drinking & Nightlife

12 Basara House

B1

13 Creole Cafe

C1

7 Shopping

14 Chikugōgei Yamashō

C3

8 Information

15 JR Beppu Station Information Office

B2

16 Ōita Bank

C2

8 Transport

17 Airport Bus Stop

C2

18 Beppu Station Bus Stop (East Side)

B2

19 Beppu Station Bus Stop (West Side)

A2

20 Bus Stop for Kannawa Onsen

C2

21 Eki Rent-a-Car

B2

5 Eating

Beppu is renowned for toriten (chicken tempura), freshwater fish, Bungō-

gyū (local beef), fugu (pufferfish), wild mountain vegetables and dangojiru

(miso soup with thick-cut noodles). Your fish may be served with a wedge of

kabosu, a tangy local citrus fruit that looks like a lime but is in the bitter-

orange family. The arcades off Ekimaedōri are great for restaurant browsing.

o Gyōza Kogetsu

GYOZA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 餃子湖月; %0977-21-0226; 1-9-4 Kitahama; gyōza ¥600; h2-8pm Wed-Mon)

This seven-seat, 1940s time warp with a manic local following has only two

things on the menu, both ¥600: generous plates of gyōza perfectly fried to a

delicate crunch, and bottles of beer. It’s in the tiny alley left of the Sol Paseo

Ginza Arcade entrance; look for the display case filled with cat figurines.

Unusually, it’s nonsmoking.

Genova

ICE CREAM

¥

( MAP ; ジェノバ; %0120-336-051; 1-10-5 Kitahama; cone/cup from ¥400/450; h3pm-midnight

Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

There always seems to be a queue at this ice-cream counter just inside Sol

Paseo Ginza Arcade. Even if something seems to have been lost in the

English translations of a few flavours (‘Strawberry cubic’? ‘Yogurt ice

multiplied by the honey’?), they sure taste delish; try the Earl Grey and

black-sesame varieties.

Tomonaga Panya

BAKERY

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 友永パン屋; %0977-23-0969; Chiyo-machi 2-29; pastries from ¥70; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

This charming, historic bakery has been in business since 1916, and people

still happily queue for its everchanging selection of oven-fresh breads and

pastries. Take a number when you enter and peruse the English menu. The

wanchan (doggie) bun (¥110) is filled with custard cream and uses raisins

for the eyes and nose. The shop closes when sold out.

It’s on the side street behind Ono Collection boutique.

Toyotsune Honten

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; とよ常本店; %0977-22-3274; www.toyotsune.com; 2-12-24 Kitahama; mains ¥650-1650; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Thu-Tue; p)

Local favourite Toyotsune nails the Beppu specialities: toriten (chicken

tempura), Bungō-gyū (local beef), soy-marinated Ryukyu fish, plus tempura

and lots of fresh fish. This recently renovated, brightly lit main branch is

behind the Ōita Kōtsu bus stop; a second branch (とよ常別府駅前店;

%0977-23-7487; 3-7 Ekimae-honmachi; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Fri-Wed) is across from

Beppu Station.

Fugu Matsu

SEAFOOD

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ふぐ松; %0977-21-1717; www.fugumatsu.jp; 3-6-14 Kitahama; fugu set meals from ¥8640; h11am-9pm)

This friendly shop has been serving simple fugu (pufferfish) since 1958. Sit

on hori-kotatsu seating and sample sashimi, karaage (fried fugu) and

hirezake (sake boiled with a grilled fugu fin). Reservations are required, at

least a day ahead. It’s behind the old-style grey-and-white lattice front.

DON’T MISS

ONSEN COOKING EXPERIENCE

Ingenious! Amid the hells of Kannawa a couple of restaurants offer the opportunity to cook

your own meal in onsen steam. Purchase ingredients on the spot (or bring your own), and steam

them in kama (vats) roiling from the onsen below. Kannawa Mushi-yu shares a building with

the Foreign Tourist Information Office, so there’s usually an English speaker on hand to help

until 5pm. At Enma ( MAP ; 縁間; %0977-75-9592; 228-1 Furomoto Kannawa; dishes ¥300-

950, plus steaming charge ¥500; h10am-7pm) you have the bonus of a foot bath in which to

soak your tootsies while you eat. Both places can be crowded at peak times, such as weekend

lunch.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Beppu has a vibrant scene after dark and certainly knows how to party.

While most of the clubs and bars cater to a Japanese clientele, there are a

number of fun spots for tourists to meet fellow travellers or hang out with

English-speaking locals, and there are plenty of izakaya in the arcades.

Creole Cafe

BAR

( MAP ; クレオールカフェ; %0977-85-8322; www.creoledj.com; 1st fl, Beppu Tower, 3-10-2

Kitahama; hnoon-2pm & 6pm-1am Fri-Wed)

On the ground floor of Beppu Tower and with windows looking out onto the

busy street, Creole Cafe brings together Beppu’s Japanese and foreign

communities over drinks, reasonably priced food (curry and pasta at lunch,

European fusion at night) and special events like salsa dancing.

Basara House

CAFE

( MAP ; バサラハウス; www.facebook.com/Basara-House-BEPPU-392113911278824; 3-2-2

Kitahama; h11am-3pm Sun & Mon, 11am-6pm Thu-Sat)

There’s a handmade, arty feel to this renovated 1940s house, filled with

exposed beams, period tile work and eclectic ephemera. All the better to sip

coffee, chai or ume (Japanese plum) soda and appreciate occasional art

exhibits or musical happenings. Round things out with curries or fried rice

for lunch (¥800), including some veggie options.

7 Shopping

For over a century, the must-have souvenir for Japanese holidaymakers in

Beppu was everyday-use products made from the region’s plentiful bamboo.

You can still find these around town, but nowadays the trend is towards art

pieces such as baskets for flower arranging. Chikugōgei Yamashō ( MAP

GOOGLE MAP ; 竹工芸山正; %0977-22-6208; 4-9 Kusunoki-machi; h10am-6pm), the Beppu

Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre and Oita-branded shops sell high-quality

pieces by local artisans with prices to match. Elsewhere, you might want to

ask ‘Nihon-sei desu ka?’ (Is this made in Japan?).

8 Information

Foreign Tourist Information Branches at Beppu Station (えきマチ一丁目

別府インフォーメーション; MAP ; %0977-21-6220; 12-13 Ekimae-machi; h8.30am-

5pm; W) and Kannawa ( MAP ; %0977-66-3855; 306-1 Kannawa; h9am-5pm; W) are well

equipped with helpful multilingual volunteers and an arsenal of local

information and advice.

Be Beppu (www.bebeppu.com) is a local magazine covering mostly

onsen. The print version (¥580) is filled with discount coupons.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Flights go to nearby Ōita Airport (%0978-67-1174; www.oita-airport.jp) from Tokyo Haneda and Narita, Nagoya, and Osaka Itami Airports. Flights also operate

to Seoul.

Beppu Airport buses (¥1500) from Ōita Airport stop outside Tokiwa

department store ( MAP ) (48 minutes) and Beppu Station (51 minutes).

BOAT

The Ferry Sunflower Kansai Kisen ( MAP ; %0977-22-1311) makes an overnight run between Beppu and Osaka and Kōbe (one way/return ¥7900/15,500, 12

hours), stopping at Matsuyama (4½ hours). The evening boat departs

between 6.45pm and 7.35pm to western Honshū and passes through the

Inland Sea (Seto-nai-kai), arriving at 6.35am or 7.35am the next morning.

For the port, take bus 20 or 26 from Beppu Station’s west exit ( MAP ).

BUS

There’s a Kyūshū Odan (Trans-Kyūshū) bus to Aso Station (¥2980, 3¼

hours) and Kumamoto (¥3960, five hours). Nishitetsu buses from Fukuoka

Airport run every hour to Kitahama Station (¥3190, two hours).

TRAIN

Beppu is not on any shinkansen lines, but from Hakata (Fukuoka), the fastest

connection is by shinkansen to Kokura and connecting with the Sonic tokkyū

on the JR Nippō line ( shinkansen and tokkyū ¥5740, 100 minutes) to Beppu.

Alternatively, Sonic trains go all the way to Hakata Station (¥5050, about

two hours). The JR Nippō line continues to Miyazaki via Ōita ( tokkyū

¥5480, 3¼ hours). To get to Kagoshima-Chūō, change to the Kyūshū

s hinkansen at Kokura (¥14,610, 3¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Beppu centre is walkable and flat once you head downhill from the station

area. Buses are a good way to reach the hells and outskirts. If you really

need to get away, Eki Rent-a-Car ( MAP ; %0977-24-4428; www.ekiren.co.jp; 12-13

Ekimae-chō) is inside Beppu Station, with cars that start at about ¥5400 per day.

BUS

Kamenoi is the main bus company. An unlimited ‘My Beppu Free’ pass

comes in two varieties: ‘mini’ (one day adult/student/child ¥900/700/450,

two days adult/child ¥1500/750), which covers Beppu city (and offers

discounts); and ‘wide’ (one/two days adult ¥1600/2400, child ¥800/1200),

which extends to Yufuin. Passes are available from foreign tourist

information offices, the train station and ferry terminal, and some lodgings.

From JR Beppu Station, buses 2, 5, 7, 9, 20, 24, 25 and 41 go to Kannawa

(15 to 25 minutes), and buses 26 and 26A serve Chi-no-ike and Tatsumaki

jigoku. Kannawa-bound buses also leave from a bus stop ( MAP ) near Rte 10.

Yufuin 由布院

%0977 / POP 34,922

About 25km inland from Beppu, delightful Yufuin (由布院) sits in a ring of

mountains, with the twin peaks of Yufu-dake especially notable. The town

thrives on tourism and is a good place to see contemporary Japanese crafts,

including ceramics, clothing and woodworking, and interesting foods.

Fair warning: Yufuin has become increasingly crowded in the last several

years, especially on holidays and at weekends. You can mitigate the crowds

with an overnight stay. Once the day trippers leave, the town reverts to its

comfy, intimate self.

1 Sights & Activities

On the eastern side of town, small Kinrin-ko (金鱗湖) is a local landmark.

Shops, cafes and restaurants line its northern shore and the pedestrian route

from the town centre, and there’s an lovely shrine on the southeastern shore.

Making a pilgrimage from one onsen to another is a popular activity.

Alternatively, work up a sweat on double-peaked Yufudake (1584m)

volcano, which overlooks Yufuin and takes about 90 minutes to climb. Then

go and dip in the onsen.

o Musō-en

ONSEN

(夢想園; %0977-84-2171; www.musouen.co.jp; 1243 Kawaminami; ¥700; h10am-3pm)

A little out of town (about 20 minutes on foot from the station or a moderate

uphill bike ride), this onsen ryokan offers exceptionally clear waters for

exceptionally clear reflections of Yufu-dake. Private ‘family’ baths are also

available.

Nurukawa Onsen

ONSEN

(ぬるかわ温泉; %0977-84-2869; 1490-1 Kawakami Takemoto; ¥430, private baths from ¥1650;

h7am-8pm)

A short walk from Kinrin-ko and separated by gender, this cluster of small

bathing rooms boasts lots of character and lovely mountain views.

Shitan-yu

ONSEN

(下ん湯; %0977-84-3111; ¥200; h10am-9pm)

An atmospheric one-room thatched bathhouse with mixed bathing only, on

the northern shore of Kinrin-ko. Deposit your payment in the slot outside.

4 Sleeping

Yufuin can be pretty crowded during the day, so spending the night in a local

inn will allow for a more relaxed visit. Most lodgings have onsen.

Yufuin Country Road Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(湯布院カントリーロードユースホステル; %0977-84-3734;

www.countryroadyh.com; 441-29 Kawakami; dm HI member/nonmember ¥3300/3800; pniW) John Denver fans will love staying here on a forested hillside overlooking

the town. Especially pretty at night, this first-rate 25-bed hostel has its own

onsen and hospitable Englishspeaking owners who’ve clearly made the

singer a major part of their lives. Infrequent buses (¥200, Monday to Friday

only) service the area, or you can arrange for pick-up (call ahead first).

Two meals are available for an extra ¥1900.

o Yufu-no-Oyado Hotaru

RYOKAN

¥¥

(由布のお宿ほたる; %0977-84-5151; www.yufuin-hotaru.com; 1791-1 Kawakita; r per person

incl 2 meals from ¥16,500; hreception 7am-9pm; paW)

This lovely, family-run traditional ryokan is nestled among cypress and

bamboo. A variety of onsen make it a lovely spot for dippers, and one of the

owners speaks excellent English. It’s about ¥1200 by taxi from the Yufuin

Station area.

o Makiba-no-ie

RYOKAN

¥¥

(牧場の家; %0977-84-2138; 2870-1 Kawakami; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥16,350; paW)

There’s atmosphere aplenty in these dozen thatched-roof huts with Japanese

rooms, sink and toilet surrounding a beautiful rotemburo. The antique-filled,

garden-view restaurant offers jidori (local chicken) and Bungō-gyū teishoku

(local-beef set meals) from ¥1600. Lunch, by reservation only, includes bath

admission. Otherwise, visitors can use the rotemburo (¥600, until 5pm daily)

and the eight family (private) baths (from ¥1800).

5 Eating

Most patrons have their meals while relaxing in their inn, but there’s a

concentration of eateries by the station and in the busy shopping streets

around Kinrin-ko.

Kappō Satō

JAPANESE

¥¥

(割烹サトウ; %0977-85-2550; 2955-18 Kawakami; lunch specials ¥950-1200, Bungō beef set

¥2300; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Wed-Mon)

Get your fill of local specialities at this delightful old wooden house across

from a river: toriten (chicken tempura), fried chicken with yuzu (citron)

pepper, Bungō-gyū beef sets, sushi and sashimi. Lunch specials are a great

deal.

Izumi Soba

NOODLES

¥¥

(泉そば; %0977-85-2283; 1599-1 Kawakami; soba ¥1295-2160; h11am-5pm)

There are less expensive soba shops in town, but at this classy place with a

view of Kinrin-ko you can often watch the noodles being made in the

window before you sit down. The standard is seirō-soba (on a bamboo mat);

oroshisoba comes topped with grated daikon.

8 Information

Yufuinfo (由布市ツーリストインフォメーションセンター; %0977-84-2446;

h9am-7pm; W) Next to the train station, this lovely new office has plenty of

information in English, including detailed walking maps and brochures

about natural sights, galleries, museums and onsen. Electric and ordinary

bikes are available for rent.

8 Getting There & Away

Unless you’re using a Japan Rail pass, bus is the cheaper way to travel from

Beppu. It’s also usually faster, and the route through the mountains is like a

mini-sightseeing tour. Buses connect JR Beppu Station with Yufuin

throughout the day (one way/return ¥900/1500, 65 minutes). One-way

tickets are sold on board; buy return tickets at the Beppu Station tourist

information office or Yufuin bus terminal.

Frequent express buses serve Fukuoka (¥2880, two hours), while a couple

of departures a day go to Kurokawa Onsen (¥2000, 1½ hours), Aso (¥3000,

2½ hours) and Kumamoto (¥4200, 4½ hours).

Trains connect Beppu with Yufuin ( futsū ¥1110, 90 minutes) via Ōita. A

few daily Yufu or Yufuin-no-mori tokkyū trains cost ¥1930/2450 for non-

reserved/reserved seats, and take about 65 minutes with no change of train;

some trains have reserved seats only.

8 Getting Around

Some buses from Yufuin stop at the base of Yufu-dake at Yufu-tozanguchi

(由布登山口; ¥360, 15 minutes, about hourly).

Electric bikes can be rented at the tourist office (two hours with/without

JR pass ¥400/500); the assistance can be useful if you’ll be heading uphill

out of the town centre. Standard bikes are also available (¥250 per hour, up

to ¥1250 per day) from 9am to 5pm.

Kunisaki Peninsula 国東半島

It would be easy to overlook the Kunisaki Peninsula (国東半島), a remote

corner of Kyūshū north of Beppu, under-served as it is by public transport,

but you’d be missing some of the most undisturbed pawā spotto (power

spots; Japanese slang for spiritual places) in the nation. The town of Bungo-

Takada is nicknamed ‘Buddha’s Village’ and the region is noted for its early

Buddhist influence, including some rock-carved images linked to the more

famous ones at Usuki. Your own car is useful for getting around the region

efficiently.

The peninsula can be visited as a day trip from Beppu, where you’ll find

the best sleeping options.

1 Sights

o Kumano Magaibutsu

BUDDHIST SITE

(熊野磨崖仏; ¥300; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar)

Deep in a forest along a mossy riverbed are two Heian-period Buddha

images carved into a cliff: a 6m figure of the Dainichi Buddha and an 8m

figure of Fudō-Myō-o. Known as Kumano Magaibutsu, these are the largest

Buddhist images of this type in Japan, reached via stone stairs said to have

been built overnight by an ogre. If you thought the few hundred steps to the

carvings were tough, wait until the next few hundred to the shrine at the top.

The entrance to the carvings is around 2km south of Maki Ōdō Hall.

Usa-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

(宇佐神宮; www.usajinguu.com; 2859 Minami, Usa) F

The sprawling, wooded and watercrossed Usa-jingū, the original of which

dates back some 1200 years, is the chief shrine among some 40,000 in Japan

dedicated to the warrior-god Hachiman. An audio ‘touch pen’ guide (¥500),

available at the tourist information office near the bus stop, offers detailed

descriptions in English. Allow one to two hours to view the entire grounds,

up to four hours if you listen to all the audio content.

It’s a 4km bus (¥230, seven minutes, hourly) or taxi ride from Usa Station

(get off at Usa-Hachiman-mae), on the JR Nippō line from Beppu. Parking

costs ¥400. A monorail helps those with limited mobility.

Futago-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(両子寺; www.futago.jp; 1548 Futago, Akimachi; ¥300; h8am-5pm Apr-Nov, 8.30am-4.30pm

Dec-Mar)

In the centre of the Kunisaki Peninsula, near the summit of Futago-san

(721m), this temple was founded in 718 and dedicated to Fudō-Myō-o, the

fire-enshrouded, sword-wielding deity. It’s a lovely climb up an uneven

stone path, especially in spring or autumn, and there are plenty of

subtemples to explore around the mountain’s forested gorges. There’s a

lovely mossy stream and detours for hiking, especially when Japanese

maples work their colourful magic.

Among the sub-buildings, Okun-no-in Hall has an unusual construction of

a wooden front built around a cave. The temple offers unique ema (wooden

votive plaques) with a cutout of a human body; use a marker to draw where

healing is needed, detach, and leave the ema in a tray; it will be burnt as an

offering inside the Goma-dō (fire hall).

Fuki-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(富貴寺; %0978-26-3189; 2395 Tashibufuki, Bungo-takada; ¥300; h8.30am-4.30pm)

Located on the outskirts of Bungo-takada, this National Treasure, made of

fragrant nutmeg wood, is the oldest wooden edifice in Kyūshū and one of the

oldest wooden temples in Japan. Its overgrown grounds and moss-covered

stupas complement the 11th-century structure beautifully. Use your

smartphone to access information in English via wi-fi. Ōita Kōtsū buses

from Usa Station go to Bungo-takada (¥810, 20 minutes); from there, it’s a

10-minute taxi ride (around ¥1000).

Maki Ōdō

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(真木大堂; %0978-26-2075; 1796 Tashibumaki, Bungo-takada; h8.30am-5pm)

This temple’s main hall dates from the Edo period, but the key reason to

come here is to see the nine Heian-period sculptures designated important

cultural properties, centred on the Amida Buddha and protector gods of the

four directions, in a more recently built hall. A wi-fi system offers detailed

descriptions in English. A stone-stepped path leads to an observation area to

survey the plains below.

Taizō-ji

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(胎蔵寺; %0978-26-2901; 2579 Tashibuhirano, Bungo-takada; h9am-5pm) F

At this temple near the entrance to the Kumano Magaibutsu, monks will give

you stickers to put on the statue of your Chinese birth year.

5 Eating

This area is quite spread out, and dining options are few and far between.

There’s a wonderfully casual seaside noodle shop and a few options in the

former samurai district of Kitsuki. Otherwise, you may do well to pack a

meal from Beppu or find a conbini (convenience store).

o Soba Cafe Yuuhi

CAFE

¥

(Soba Cafe ゆうひ; %0978-25-8533; www.facebook.com/sobacafeyuuhi; 5125 Usuno,

Bungotakada; soba dishes ¥750-1400; h11am-sunset Wed-Mon; p)

This beach-casual shop might offer the most spectacular sunset of your trip:

the sun sinks into the ocean or behind mudflats that stretch to the horizon –

on clear evenings you can even see the green flash. Yuuhi sells handmade

soba, smoothies (¥700) and iced coffee (¥400), and rents such gear as stand-

up paddleboards (¥2000 per hour) and clamming equipment (¥500).

Go for kamo nanban (duck soup) soba or the koikana (lover’s wish) set

meal (¥1200), with soba, fried side dishes and heart-shaped onigiri (rice

balls).

It’s on a roadside turnout by the little beach Matama-kaigan (真玉海岸).

8 Getting There & Around

Buses circle the peninsula, but getting to the temples using public transport

is inconvenient and time-consuming. Oita Kōtsū Bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 大

分交通バス; %097-536-3655; www.oitakotsu.co.jp; Kunisaki Peninsula tour ¥5050; h9am-5pm) runs daily bus tours from Beppu to view the main temples, but the best way

to view this area is by car. Rentals are available in Beppu, or take transit to

Ōita Airport and rent from there.

Usuki 臼杵

%0972 / POP 38,750

About 30km southeast of Beppu, Usuki (臼杵) is best known for the

astounding thousand-year-old Usuki Stone Buddhas (臼杵石仏; %0972-65-

3300; https://sekibutsu.com; 804-1 Oaza Fukata; ¥540; h6am-6pm Oct-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Sep). Four clusters comprising 60-plus images (59 are designated National Treasures)

lie in a series of niches in a ravine. They’re largely made of lava rock from

Aso-san. Some are complete statues, whereas others have only the heads

remaining. It’s truly a spiritual place if it’s uncrowded, although some of the

magic can be lost in the touristy ambience just outside.

8 Information

Tourist Information Office (臼杵市観光情報協会; %0972-63-2366; JR Usuki

Station; h9am-3pm) Inside the JR Station.

Usuki City Tourism & Community Plaza (臼杵市観光交流プラザ; %097-

263-1715; 100-2 Ōaza; h9am-6pm; W) This sparkling-new tourist plaza is set

inconveniently far from the station. It has maps, pamphlets and life-size

figures of Usuki’s mascot, ‘Hotto-san’, a cute stone Buddha cartoon

character.

8 Getting There & Away

Usuki is 40km southeast of Beppu. Take the JR Nippō line to Usuki Station

( tokkyū/ futsū ¥2070/940, 45/60 minutes); you’ll usually need to change in

Ōita.

From the station, infrequent buses (¥310) take 20 minutes to reach the

Buddha images (get off at Usuki Sekibutsu bus stop), or it’s about ¥2020 in a

taxi or 35 minutes by bike. You can rent standard bikes (free!) or electric

bikes (¥300 per hour) at the station from 9am to 3pm, or from the Tourism &

Community Plaza until 6pm.

SOUTHERN KYŪSHŪ

Including the prefectures of Kagoshima (鹿児島) to the west and Miyazaki

(宮崎) to the east, with Kinkō-wan (Kinkō Bay) in the middle, balmy

southern Kyūshū is the furthest south you can get in Japan without boarding

a ferry.

Kagoshima features in the annals of history again and again: from ancient

Jōmon-era dwellings to the feudal period, the beginnings of the Meiji

Restoration, and the departure of thousands of WWII pilots. The prefecture

also boasts the smouldering Kirishima mountain range – a draw for bird- and

wildlife-watchers.

Miyazaki Prefecture is Kagoshima’s ‘hippie sibling’: relaxed and quiet,

with a renowned coastline that lures surfers from all over Japan. Coastal

drives here may remind you of California or the Italian Riviera – until you

detour inland and meet the resident bands of wild monkeys. Northern

Miyazaki Prefecture is the land of legends, including the queen of them all,

the sun goddess Amaterasu.

8 Getting There & Away

Southern Kyūshū is accessible by shinkansen, air and bus services from

other parts of the island, or via international flights. Many travellers use

Kagoshima International Airport as their entry/exit point.

Kagoshima 鹿児島

%099 / POP 606,800

The southernmost big city on Japan’s main islands, sunny Kagoshima (鹿児

島) has a personality to match its climate and has been voted Japan’s

friendliest city nationwide. It’s proud of its past as capital of the feudal

Satsuma province, which holds an outsize place in Japanese history.

Kagoshima’s backdrop/deity is Sakurajima, a very active volcano just across

the bay. Locals raise their umbrellas against the mountain’s recurrent

eruptions, when fine ash coats the landscape like snow and obscures the sun

like fog – mystical and captivating.

History

Everywhere you go throughout central Kagoshima are reminders of the

proud history of the city and prefecture. Capital of the feudal Satsuma

domain, Kagoshima was ruled by the Shimazu clan for a remarkable 700

years. The province’s location at the far southwest of the Japanese main

islands helped it grow wealthy through trade, particularly with China.

Contact was also made with Korea, whose pottery methods were influential

in the creation of Satsuma-yaki.

When Japan opened to the world in the mid-19th century, Satsuma’s

government competed with the shogunate, engaging in war with Britain and

hosting a Satsuma pavilion – independent from the Japanese pavilion – at the

1867 Paris Expo. In the late 19th century, 17 young men from the province

were among the first Japanese to study in the Western world and are credited

with helping bring Japan into the modern age.

Satsuma’s best-known samurai, the complicated and (literally) towering

figure of Saigō Takamori, played a key role in the Meiji Restoration. There’s

a statue of Saigō in central Kagoshima, and his image appears in pictoral

and manga form practically everywhere.

Central Kagoshima

1 Top Sights

1 Museum of the Meiji Restoration

C6

1 Sights

2 Reimeikan

E1

3 Saigō Takamori Statue

E2

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Kagomma Onsen

F1

5 Nishida Onsen

A5

6 Yorimichi Cruise

H2

4 Sleeping

7 Green Guest House

G4

8 Onsen Hotel Nakahara Bessō

E3

9 Remm Kagoshima

D4

5 Eating

10 Ichinisan

E4

11 Kagomma Furusato Yatai-mura

B6

12 Kumasotei

E3

13 Kurokatsu-tei

E2

14 Yamauchi Nōjō

E4

15 Yokaban

E3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

16 Dolphin Industry

E4

17 Honkaku Shōchū Bar Ishizue

E4

18 Karakara

E5

19 Retroft

F2

8 Information

20 Tourism Exchange Centre

C7

21 Tourist Information Center

A7

8 Transport

22 Kagoshima Chūō Station Bus Stops

A7

23 Tenmonkan Bus Stops

F3

1 Sights

Kagoshima spreads north–south beside the bay and has two JR stations, the

main one being Kagoshima-Chūō at the end of the shinkansen line, with

Kagoshima Station to its north. Trams connect the two stations, passing

through the busy commercial and nightlife district of Tenmonkan, which is

about 1km northeast of Kagoshima-Chūō Station. Tenmonkan’s covered

arcades are a great way to get some relief from the extremes of summer heat,

winter chill and Sakurajima’s ash.

o Sengan-en

GARDENS

(仙巌園·磯庭園, Iso-teien; %099-247-1551; 9700-1 Yoshinochō; with/without villa entry

¥1300/1000; h8.30am-5.30pm, Goten 9am-5pm; p)

In 1658, the 19th Shimazu lord laid out his pleasure garden on this hilly,

rambling bayside property of groves, hillside trails and one of Japan’s most

impressive pieces of ‘borrowed scenery’: the fuming peak of Sakurajima.

Allow 45 minutes for a leisurely stroll through the garden, and 30 minutes

more for a self-guided tour of the 25-room Goten (‘the house’ on signage),

the Shimazu clan’s former villa. As sprawling as it is, the villa is now only

one-third of its original size!

The grounds are filled with ceremonial gardens, photogenic shrines, and

symbolic sculptures and rock formations, such as the jumping-lion lantern,

arching toward Sakurajima. The garden’s wealth of tropical trees grow

exceptionally well in Kagoshima’s balmy microclimate. The well-preserved

Kyokusui Garden was once the site of poetry contests; participants floated

a sake cup in a stream and had to compose a poem by the time it reached the

end.

Shops around the garden sell jambomochi (pounded rice cakes on a stick)

and kiriko (cut glass).

The adjacent Shōko Shūseikan (尚古集成館; with Sengan-en ticket free;

h8.30am-5.30pm) museum once housed Japan’s first factory, built in the 1850s.

Exhibits relate to the Shimazu family and Japanese industrial history, with

over 10,000 items and precious heirlooms, including scrolls, military goods,

Satsuma-yaki pottery, and Japan’s earliest cannons, steam engines and cut

glass.

The garden is about 2km north of the city centre. Nearby is Iso-hama, the

city’s popular, kid-friendly swimming beach. An easy way to get to Sengan-

en is by the hop-on, hop-off City View bus.

o Museum of the Meiji Restoration

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 維新ふるさと館; %099-239-7700; 23-1 Kaijiyachō; ¥300; h9am-5pm; dJR Kagoshima-Chūō)

This museum offers insights into the unique social system of education,

samurai loyalty and sword techniques that made Satsuma one of Japan’s

leading provinces. There’s a good smartphone app in English. Hourly

audiovisual presentations – told by animatronic Meiji-era reformers,

including Saigō Takamori and Sakamoto Ryōma – detail the Satsuma

Rebellion and the ground-breaking visits of Satsuma students to the West.

Reimeikan

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 黎明館, Kagoshima Prefectural Museum of Culture;

www.pref.kagoshima.jp/reimeikan; 7-2 Shiroyamachō; ¥310; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed 25th of each month; jShiyakushō-mae)

The Reimeikan has extensive displays on Satsuma history and ancient

sword-making. It’s inside the site of Kagoshima’s castle, Tsurumaru-jō

(1602); the walls and moat are all that remain, and bullet holes in the stones

are still visible. It’s behind Kagoshima’s City Hall and government

buildings.

SAKURAJIMA’S ASH

The Sakurajima volcano erupts so frequently that weather reports in Kagoshima Prefecture have

a special ash forecast. Once ash starts falling you’ll understand why: it stings, coats your teeth

with grit, dirties futons and laundry, and makes anyone who has just washed their car burst into

tears.

In most of Japan, umbrellas are for rain, and many people carry parasols as shields from the

summer heat. In Kagoshima there’s a third use: protection from Sakurajima’s ash. Don’t have

an umbrella? Pick up a loaner on a city tram and return it the next time you ride.

2 Activities

Kagoshima boasts some 50 bathhouses, most meant for locals and recalling

the humble, everyday sentō (public bath) of old. Examples include local

favourite Nishida Onsen ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 西田温泉; 1-2-17 Takashi; ¥390; h5.30am-10.30pm, closed 2nd Mon of month), just a few minutes’ walk from JR

Kagoshima-Chūō Station, and Kagomma Onsen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かごっ

ま温泉; %099-226-2688; 3-28 Yasui-chō; ¥390; h8am-midnight, closed 15th of month;

jShiyakusho-mae), near City Hall. A great onsen brochure is available from

most tourist info desks and in many hotel lobbies.

T Tours

Yorimichi Cruise

CRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; よりみちクルーズ船; %099-223-7271; adult/child ¥500/250; h11.05am)

The Yorimichi Cruise takes one of six circuitous sightseeing routes from

Kagoshima Port to Sakurajima Port in about 50 minutes.

4 Sleeping

Kagoshima has plenty of good-value places to sleep. Kagoshima-Chūō

Station is convenient for getting into and out of town, but if you’re looking

for nightlife, aim to stay nearer to Tenmonkan.

Green Guest House

HOSTEL

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; グリーンゲストハウス; %0998-02-4301; www.green-

guesthouse.com; 5-7 Sumiyoshi-chō; dm/tw/private r ¥1900/2400/5600; naiW; jIzuro-dōri)

Clean and compact, this five-storey hostel is very convenient to the ferry

docks, which is useful if you’re planning a trip to Sakurajima. Separate-

gender dorms and private rooms are available. Check out the views of

Sakurajima from the roof deck. Some English is spoken at the front desk,

and all important signage is in English and Japanese.

It’s about a 10-minute walk to central Tenmonkan, on a main street lined

with chain restaurants.

o Onsen Hotel Nakahara Bessō

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 温泉ホテル中原別荘; %099-225-2800; www.nakahara-bessou.co.jp;

15-19 Terukuni-chō; r per person with/without 2 meals from ¥12,960/8640; pnaiW; jTenmonkan-

dōri)

Just outside Tenmonkan and across from a park, this family-owned inn

traces its history to 1904, though the current building has a mid-20th-century

feel, especially in its white-and-grey facade. Inside you’ll find a modern

rotemburo, 75 spacious Japanese-style rooms with traditional artwork and a

good Satsuma-ryōri restaurant. Rooms and restaurants are strictly

nonsmoking.

Remm Kagoshima

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レム鹿児島; %099-224-0606; https://global.hankyu-hotel.com/remm-

kagoshima; 1-32 Higashisengoku-chō; s/d/tw ¥10,800/15,120/19,980; pnaiW; jTenmonkan-dōri)

At this hotel in Tenmonkan, rooms are business-hotel-size but futuristic in

style and amenities, with custom-designed beds, fluffy white duvets,

massage chairs, rain showers, and glass windows in the bathrooms for

natural light (and, thoughtfully, curtains). The ageless design in the public

spaces incorporates ancient stones and hardwoods. It’s worth springing for

the extensive breakfast buffet (¥1000).

5 Eating

The JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station area, the backstreets of Tenmonkan and the

Dolphin Port shopping centre near the ferry terminals all abound with

restaurants.

Local friends will think you’re really in the know if you venture into the

narrow lanes of the Meizanbori neighbourhood southeast of City Hall. These

dilapidated-looking Shōwa-era blocks are crammed with tiny yet often chic

purveyors of everything from yakitori and curry rice to French and Spanish

cooking, plus cool bars. It’s worth a wander, and you never know what you

might find. Shop hours vary, but most are open nights only.

Kurokatsutei

TONKATSU

¥

(黒かつ亭; %099-213-9600; www.kurokatutei.net; 2-2 Yamashita-chō; sets lunch ¥770-1080, dinner ¥960-1740, donburi ¥880-970; h11am-3.30pm & 5-11.20pm; jAsahi-dōri)

If your favourite way to enjoy kurobuta (Kagoshima-style black pork) is

deep-fried, this institution does it in prodigiously crunchy crust, as tonkatsu

(cutlets) or donburi (rice bowls). Reasonably priced teishoku (set meals)

come with generous sides of cabbage rice and delicate, pork-broth-based

miso soup. The Kurokatsutei set lunch features two of the best-selling pork

cuts: fillet and loin.

Look for the black storefront one block east of the Kagoshima East Post

Office. Inside, the atmosphere is updated farm house.

Yamauchi Nōjō

IZAKAYA

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 山内農場; %099-223-7488; 2nd fl, 1-26 Higashisengoku-chō; dishes

¥350-1180; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 1am Sun; jTenmonkan-dōri)

Kuro Satsuma-dori (black Satsuma chicken) is the name of the bird served

here, and also what it looks like after being grilled sumibi-yaki-style over

open charcoal. Other local dishes: marinated katsuo (bonito) sashimi,

kurobuta (black pork) salad, and tsukune (chicken meatballs) with cheese or

raw egg. Decor is modern-meets-rustic. Enter around the corner from

Lawson, by the Remm Kagoshima hotel.

Kagomma Furusato Yatai-mura

JAPANESE

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; かごっまふるさと屋台村; %099-255-1588; 6-4 Chūō-chō; prices vary; hlunch & dinner, stall hours vary; jTakami-bashi, dKagoshima-Chūō)

Yatai-mura means ‘food-stall village’, and some two dozen stalls near

Kagoshima-Chūō Station offer a taste of Kagoshima of old. Follow your

nose to your favourites, such as sumibi-yaki (coal-fired chicken), sashimi,

teppan-yaki beef and fish dishes. Booth 16 serves delicious Kagoshima

kurobuta shabu-shabu style (¥1280).

o Kumasotei

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 熊襲亭; %099-222-6356; 6-10 Higashi-Sengokuchō; set meals lunch/dinner from ¥1500/3000; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm; jTenmonkan-dōri)

This atmospheric multistorey restaurant near central Tenmonkan covers all

your Satsumaryōri needs: Satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake) , tonkotsu (pork

ribs) , kurobuta shabushabu (black-pork hotpot), and lots of fresh fish and

seafood. Look for the vertical sign with red lettering and large wooden kanji

above the entryway.

Yokaban

IZAKAYA

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; よか晩; %099-227-1010; 17-17 Higashi Sengokuchō; Yōgan-yaki ¥750,

‘tulip’ fried chicken per piece ¥200; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; jTenmonkandōri)

Owner Reina-san doesn’t speak much English but is a bundle of energy,

reflected in her cosy, spirited, home-style izakaya on a Tenmonkan side

street. Start with self-serve drinks and continue with dishes like yōgan-yaki

(chicken and vegetables grilled on Sakurajima-lava plates), house-made tofu

(try the hot-sesame version) and ‘tulip’ karaage fried chicken, plus seasonal

dishes. Cash only.

Look for the glass windows facing the narrow street, diagonally across

from Blow antique shop.

Yokaban, by the way, is Kagoshima dialect for ‘a fun evening’.

Ichinisan

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いちにぃさん; %099-225-2123; 11-6 Higashi-Sengoku-chō; plates

¥300-850, black pork ¥800-1800; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9.30pm Sun; jTenmonkan-dōri)

Come here to try Kagoshima black pork at an affordable price. It’s served

several ways: shabu-shabu dipped in delectable broth with minced green

onion; with black vinegar; kakuni (pork belly); and (the best way) atop

humble tofu. Try house-made soba, which comes with most shabushabu

meals; fried, local kibinago (slender sprat); and the amazingly zingy

condiment yuzu-kosho (citron-pepper paste).

DON’T MISS

SOUTHERN KYŪSHŪ SPECIALTIES

Kagoshima’s most famous food is kurobuta, pork from a species of ‘black’ pig prized for its

flavourful meat. You may also find inoshishi (wild boar), which is a bit more gamey than

regular pork and well worth a try. Satsuma-age is deep-fried fish cakes. The southern part of the

prefecture is famous for nagashi-sōmen, noodles that diners fish out of spring water flowing

through tabletop troughs. Miyazaki’s speciality is chikin nanban (sweet fried chicken served

with tartar sauce). Sumiyaki jidori, free-range chicken grilled over charcoal, is another popular

dish.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Tenmonkan is where most of the action happens – shot bars, clubs and

karaoke boxes. Most dance clubs don’t get going until around 11pm and

many bars charge admission (¥500 to ¥1000 on average). Many also charge

a ‘table fee’ or ‘service’ for the snacks or bar nuts they’ll serve, whether you

eat them or not.

o Honkaku Shōchū Bar Ishizue

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 本格焼酎Bar 礎; %099-227-0125; www.honkakushochu-bar-

ishizue.com; 4th fl, Flower Bldg, 6-1 Sengoku-chō; ¥2000; h8pm-3am; jTenmonkandōri)

This chic, amber-and-wood shōchū bar has everything going for it, and it’s

one of the finest places to drink Kagoshima’s prefectural liquor. There are

more than 1500 choices from around the prefecture, each with its own story,

and English-speaking staff to explain. Reserve ahead, especially Friday and

Saturday nights.

It’s across from Gacha Pon game parlour.

o Karakara

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; からから; %099-223-0214; 3rd fl, 7-27 Yamanokuchi; h8pm-3am, irregular closures; jTenmonkan-dōri)

On the 3rd floor of a generic bar building next to a 7-Eleven, a low door

leads to another dimension. Enthusiastic owner Hiroshi-san has crammed

every square millimetre with 30,000 (!) Shōwa-era toys, memorabilia and

furniture, including some of questionable taste and refinement. Drinks are

just as whimsical; the Garigari-kun highball plunks a popsicle into Japanese

whisky.

Dolphin Industry

CRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %099-295-4600; www.dolphintrip.net; 3rd fl, 4-15 Higashi-Sengoku-chō;

h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; jTenmonkan-dōri)

This new, surf-themed beer and burger bar brings the California wave across

the Pacific. A friendly, just-off-Huntington-Beach vibe of surfboard art,

reclaimed wood and corrugated metal accompanies the small but well-

chosen rotating selection of Japanese craft brews on tap. Sample three in a

‘triple pack’ for ¥1200 while enjoying a burger (¥950 to ¥1200, Kagoshima

wagyū ¥1800). Also Californian: it’s nonsmoking.

Retroft

CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; レトロフト; %099-223-5066; 2-1 Meizan-chō; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun, closed 1st & 4th Sun of month; jAsahi-dōri)

There’s a lot going on in this retro-cool space c 1968: part cafe, part used

bookshop, part artist gathering place. Coffee, hot dogs and local sweets are

sold out of various nooks and crannies, each with different hours (lunch

specials ¥700), while a gallery space upstairs holds occasional exhibitions.

There’s usually an English speaker on hand.

SHŌCHŪ

Shōchū (焼酎) is a distilled spirit that can be made from a variety of raw materials, including

potato, barley and sugarcane. It’s quite strong, with an alcohol content of about 25% (but can be

as much as 45%). The beverage is strongly associated with Kyūshū, and especially Kagoshima,

where imo-jōchū (芋焼酎; shōchū made from sweet potatoes) predominates; in in Ōita, it’s

mugi-jōchū (麦焼酎; shōchū made from barley).

Drink it straight (ストレート; sutoraito), with soda (ソーダ割り; sōda-wari) or on the

rocks (ロックで; rokku de), but the most traditional way is oyuwari (お湯割り)– mixed with

water heated in a stone pot over glowing coals. Drink until you yourself begin to glow.

Honkaku Shōchū Bar Ishizue is a great place to start your shōchū education.

8 Information

Tourist information is available on the prefectural site, www.kagoshima-

kankou.com. The city website (www.city.kagoshima.lg.jp) has detailed info

on transport, sights and living in town. For sightseeing info, and arts and

entertainment listings, see www.kic-update.com.

Tourist Information Center (鹿児島中央駅総合観光案内所; %099-253-2500;

JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station; h8am-8pm) Has plenty of information in English.

Tourism Exchange Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 観光交流センター; %099-298-

5111; 1-1 Uenosono-chō; h9am-7pm; jTakamibashi) Near the Museum of the Meiji

Restoration; has pamphlets and can make hotel reservations.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Kagoshima Airport (鹿児島空港; www.koj-ab.co.jp) has connections to

Shanghai, Hong Kong, Taipei and Seoul, and convenient domestic flights,

including to Tokyo, Osaka and Okinawa (Naha).

BOAT

Ferries depart from Minami-futō pier to Yakushima (jet foil/regular ferry

¥8300/4900, one hour and 40 minutes/four hours). From Kagoshima Shin-kō

(Kagoshima New Port), Marix Line (%099-225-1551) has ferries to Naha

(Okinawa) via the Amami archipelago (¥14,610, 25 hours).

Frequent passenger and car ferries shuttle around the clock between

Kagoshima and Sakurajima (¥160, 15 minutes). Reach the ferry terminal,

near the aquarium, on the City View Bus or other buses headed for

Suizokukan-mae, or by tram to Suizokukan-guchi.

The Yorimichi Cruise takes one of six circuitous sightseeing routes from

Kagoshima Port to Sakurajima Port in about 50 minutes.

BUS

Long-distance buses depart from the express bus stops at Kagoshima Chūō

Station, near the station’s east exit, and from street-side stops at Takashima

Plaza (aka ‘Takapura’) in Tenmonkan.

Routes include Miyazaki (¥2780, three hours), Fukuoka (¥5450, 4½

hours), Ōita (¥5660, 7½ hours) and Nagasaki (¥6690, 5½ hours).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Many outlets around JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station rent cars for trips around

the region.

TRAIN

JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station is the terminus of the Kyūshū shinkansen, with

stops including Kumamoto (¥6420, 52 minutes), Hakata (¥9930, 90

minutes), Hiroshima (¥17,150, 2½ hours) and Shin-Osaka (¥21,380, 3¾

hours). Also stopping at Kagoshima Station, the JR Nippō line goes to

Miyazaki ( tokkyū ¥3710, two hours) and Beppu (¥9090, five hours).

8 Getting Around

BICYCLE

Bikes can be rented (¥500/1500 per two hours/day, with a 20% discount for

JR users) at JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station.

BUS

Hop-on, hop-off City View Buses (¥190, every 30 minutes, 9am to 6.20pm)

loop around the major sights in two routes. A one-day pass (¥600) is also

valid on trams and city bus lines and offers discounted admission to many

attractions. Otherwise, local buses tend to be inconvenient, particularly if

you don’t speak Japanese (you’re better off with trams).

TRAM

If you’re doing only a limited amount of sightseeing, trams are the easiest

way around town. Rte 1 starts from Kagoshima Station and goes through the

centre into the suburbs. Rte 2 diverges at Takami-baba (高見馬場) to JR

Kagoshima-Chūō Station and terminates at Kōrimoto. Either pay the flat fare

(¥170) or buy a one-day travel pass (¥600) from the tourist information

centre or on board. A third line, Chokko-bin, runs from Kagoshima Station

only at peak commuting times, bypassing Kōrimoto and ending in Taniyama.

KAGOSHIMA & SAKURAJIMA TRANSIT PASS

Visitors can take advantage of the Cute transit card (one/two days ¥1200/1800), covering city

buses (including the City View and Sakurajima Island View buses), trams, Sakurajima ferries

and the Yorimichi Cruise. Cardholders also get discounted admission to many attractions. Pick

the card up at tourist information offices.

Sakurajima

%099

Kagoshima’s iconic symbol, Sakurajima has been spewing an almost

continuous stream of smoke and ash since 1955, and it’s not uncommon for

it to have more than 1000, mostly small, ‘burps’ per year. In 1914 more than

3 billion tonnes of lava swallowed numerous island villages – 1000-plus

homes – and joined Sakurajima to the mainland to the southeast.

Despite its volatility, Sakurajima is currently friendly enough for visitors

to get fairly close. Among the volcano’s three peaks, only Minami-dake

(South Peak; 1040m) is active. Climbing the mountain is prohibited, but

there are several lookout points.

On the mainland, Kagoshima residents speak proudly of Sakurajima. As

the light shifts on its surface throughout the day it’s said to feature nanairo

(seven colours), visible from across Kinkō-wan.

1 Sights

Arimura Lava Observatory

VIEWPOINT

(有村溶岩展望所; %099-298-5111; 952 Arimura; h24hr) F

The name ‘Observatory’ is misleading, as there’s no building here. The site

is a shaded picnic area with some lava escape tunnels and walking trails that

let you get up close to recent lava, much of it covered now with small pine

trees. Smoky Minami-dake, the southernmost peak of Sakurajima, smoulders

above you.

Buried Torii

LANDMARK

(黒神埋没鳥居)

Near Sakurajima’s east coast, the top of a once-3m-high torii (shrine gate)

emerges from the volcanic ash at Kurokami; the rest of it was buried in the

1914 eruption.

Yunohira Lookout

VIEWPOINT

(湯之平展望所)

A drive along the tranquil north coast and then inland will lead you to

Yunohira Lookout, offering views of the mountain and back across the bay

to central Kagoshima.

Karasujima Observation Point

VIEWPOINT

(烏島展望台)

South of the visitor centre is this observation point, where the 1914 lava flow

engulfed a small island that had once been 500m offshore. There’s now an

ashi-yu (foot bath), Japan’s second longest.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Options for staying here are limited, with just a couple of properties;

otherwise, take the ferry to Kagoshima or circle north to Kirishima.

There are some convenience stores and food options near the ferry

terminal.

8 Information

Sakurajima Visitors Centre (%099-293-2443; www.sakurajima.gr.jp/svc; h9am-5pm) Nearish the ferry terminal, with exhibits about the volcano, including a

model showing its growth, and helpful English-speaking staff.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent passenger and car ferries shuttle around the clock between

Kagoshima and Sakurajima (¥160, 15 minutes).

The Yorimichi Cruise takes one of six circuitous sightseeing routes from

Kagoshima Port to Sakurajima Port in about 50 minutes; you can then

purchase a standard ferry ticket back from Sakurajima to Kagoshima.

8 Getting Around

Sakurajima Island View buses (1 way ¥120-440, day pass ¥500; h8 per day 9am-

4.30pm) loop around Sakurajima. Alternatively, try Sakurajima Rentacar

(%099-293-2162; 2hr/day from ¥4800/11,000), which also rents out bikes (¥300 per

hour), though biking isn’t recommended: if the volcano erupts during your

ride, you may find yourself unprotected from breathing the ash.

Though there are buses, this volcanic island is best enjoyed by car; the

drive around takes at least an hour, depending on stops. If travelling by bus,

consider the Kagoshima Cute day pass, good on the Sakurajima Island View

and Kagoshima City View buses, plus trams and the ferry to Sakurajima.

Satsuma Peninsula 薩摩半島

The Satsuma Peninsula (薩摩半島) south of Kagoshima city has fine rural

scenery, samurai houses, a haunting kamikaze museum, spectacular sand

baths and a super-fun way to eat noodles. While the main towns of Ibusuki

and Makurazaki are accessible by bus and train respectively, renting a car

from Kagoshima will save time and hassles. Along Ibusuki Skyline Rd,

you’ll also find wonderful views of Kinkō Bay (錦江湾; Kinkō-wan) and the

main islands’ southernmost mountains. Time permitting, head all the way to

the tip for great glimpses of Kaimon-dake (開聞岳), this area’s Mt Fuji.

Ibusuki

%0993 / POP 41,850

In southeastern Satsuma Peninsula, around 50km from Kagoshima, the

palmy hot-spring resort of Ibusuki (指宿) is known for its ‘sand baths’, in

which attendants bury guests up to their necks in beach sand heated by

underground onsen.

Otherwise, Ibusuki is generally pretty quiet, particularly in the low season,

and more especially after dark. A recent large influx of tourists from China

may change that.

Ibusuki Station is located about 1km from the beachfront and most

accommodation, but the few eateries are near the station.

1 Sights

Chiringashima

ISLAND

(知林ヶ島)

Lovely Chiringashima is connected to the mainland by a thin land bridge

that appears only at low tide, when hikers, beachcombers and tide-pool

explorers can walk the coral and shell-strewn connector and visit a small

shrine on the island itself. Hours vary with the tides, which you may have to

race if you walk too slowly. A taxi from Ibusuki Station takes 10 minutes;

the over-sand hike, one way, takes about half an hour, more if you stop along

the way.

Satsuma Denshōkan

MUSEUM

(薩摩伝承館; www.satsuma-denshokan.com; 12131-4 Higashikata, Hakusuikan; ¥1500;

h8.30am-7pm)

This striking museum offers a history of Satsuma plus displays of Chinese

ceramics and gleaming Satsuma-yaki in a templestyle building that seems to

float on its own lake. There are English-language audio guides. It’s about

3.5km from Ibusuki Station (taxi ¥1220, 10 minutes), at the Hakusuikan

onsen hotel.

WORTH A TRIP

IKEDA-KO & KAIMON-DAKE

Ikeda-ko is a volcanic caldera lake west of Ibusuki, inhabited by giant eels kept in tanks by the

parking lot. South of the lake is Cape Nagasaki-bana, from where you can see offshore islands

on a clear day.

The beautifully symmetrical 924m cone of Kaimon-dake, nicknamed ‘Satsuma Fuji’,

dominates the southern skyline and can be climbed in two hours. An early start may reward you

with views of Sakurajima, the Sata Peninsula, and Yakushima and Tanegashima islands.

In a riverside gorge near Ikeda-ko, Tōsenkyō Sōmen Nagashi (唐船峡そうめん流し;

%0993-32-2143; 5967 Jūchō; sōmen ¥570; h10am-8pm Aug, to 7.30pm Jul & Sep, to 5.30pm

Mar-Jun & Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Feb; c) is the birthplace of nagashi-sōmen (flowing noodles).

Sōmen (thin wheat-flour noodles) spin around tyre-shaped table-top tanks of swiftly flowing

13°C water; catch the noodles with your chopsticks and dip them in sauce to eat. Lots of fun

and ultra-refreshing on hot days. It gets an estimated 200,000 annual visitors, and is such a

pilgrimage site that there’s even a Shintō shrine here.

2 Activities

o Tamatebako Onsen

ONSEN

(たまて箱温泉; %0993-35-3577; 3292 Fukumoto Yamakawa; bath/bath & sand bath ¥510/1130;

h9.30am-7.30pm Fri-Wed)

Consistently topping lists of the world’s best onsen, Tamatebako is in two

parts: conventional, ocean-view baths on a cliffside and a sunamushi (sand

bath). Gender-separated baths are Japanese (more popular) or Western style

and switch daily; on odd-numbered days men get the Japanese bath, with a

view of Kaimon-dake. Sand-bath admission includes yukata; towels can be

rented.

Nearby is the site of an old salt works where geysers stream water from

the earth. Stand in the spray and it will taste like salt.

Tamatebako Onsen is a 9.5km drive from Ibusuki Station; follow signs for

‘Healthy Land’.

Ibusuki Sunamushi Kaikan Saraku

ONSEN

(いぶすき砂むし会館 砂楽; %0993-23-3900; www.sa-raku.sakura.ne.jp; 5-25-18

Yunohama; bath/bath & sand bath ¥610/1080; h8.30am-9pm, closed noon-1pm Mon-Fri)

Pay at the entrance, change into a yukata and wander down to the beach

where, under a canopy of bamboo-slat blinds, women with shovels bury you

in hot volcanic sand. Reactions range from panic to euphoria. It’s said that

10 minutes will get rid of impurities, but many people stay longer.

Afterwards, soak in the onsen. Private cabins also available.

4 Sleeping

Minshuku Takayoshi

MINSHUKU

¥

(民宿たかよし; %0993-22-5982; 5-1-1 Yunohama; r with/without 2 meals ¥6630/3880; pnaW)

This seven-room minshuku is no frills but spotless and has onsen baths and

washlet toilets. Some rooms have balconies. It uses home-grown produce in

its meals. Not much English is spoken, but the cheerful, animated owner is

fun to be around. It’s about 400m from the sand baths.

Tsukimi-sō

RYOKAN

¥¥

(月見荘; %0993-22-4221; www.tsukimi.jp; 5-24-8 Yunohama; r per person incl 2 meals from

¥13,110; pnaW)

Rooms at this spotless sevenroom ryokan across from the sand baths have

private facilities, in addition to pretty indoor and outdoor baths and meals

featuring Satsuma-ryōri (Kagoshima’s regional cuisine), such as tonkotsu

and sashimi. Not much English is spoken, but the amenable staff makes it

work. The whole place is nonsmoking.

o Hakusuikan

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(白水館; %0993-22-3131; www.hakusuikan.co.jp; 12126-12 Higashi-kata; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥18,510; pnaiWs)

Visiting dignitaries might stay in the sumptuous, 40-room Rikyū wing, but

those of more modest means can splurge on the less expensive of

Hakusuikan’s 164 rooms. The opulent onsen/ rotemburo/sand baths are worth

the stay by themselves. There’s a choice of Japanese or Italian meals; the

Fenice Italian restaurant is as tasty as it is attractive.

Also on the property is the Satsuma Denshōkan, a striking museum of

regional treasures.

Ryokan Ginshō

RYOKAN

¥¥¥

(旅館吟松, Ginsyo; %0993-22-3231; www.ginsyou.co.jp; 5-26-27 Yunohama; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥15,120; pnaW)

The exquisite 2nd- and 9th-floor rotemburo of this upmarket beachfront

ryokan have expansive views and a lovely relaxation garden. There’s a broad

range of rates depending on room facilities and view (ocean-facing rooms

are pricier). For meals, there’s an onsen vent right in your dinner table, for

genteel servers to cook Satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake) before your eyes.

Nonguests can arrive between 6pm and 8pm to use the bath (¥1000).

5 Eating

Although there’s a smattering of restaurants around Ibusuki Station, dining

choices are limited and your tastiest options may be the meals at your hotel.

Taketora

RAMEN

¥

(たけとら; %0993-22-5338; 1-1-13 Omure; ramen ¥800-1200; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-7pm

Mon, Wed, Thu & Fri, 11.30am-4pm Sat & Sun; p)

Even tiny Ibusuki has its own ramen style. This polished shop won a

prefectural ramen competition for its Kaimon-dake ramen (¥950), filled with

local ingredients like ground black pork and hot-spring-boiled egg. The

standard soy-sauce ramen is made with broth from local bonito. Also try

tako yakimeshi (fried rice with deep-fried octopus), topped with writhing

fish flakes.

Aoba

IZAKAYA

¥

(青葉; %0993-22-3356; 1-2-11 Minato; dishes from ¥480; h11am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Thu-Tue)

A minute’s walk left from the station, this cheery shop serves a satisfying

and varied menu of local specialities like katsuo-donburi (bonito on a bowl

of rice; ¥740), kurobuta rōsukatsu (black-pork cutlet) teishoku (set meal;

¥1420) or, if you dare, kuro Satsuma dori sashimi (raw sliced chicken;

¥850).

8 Information

Ibusuki Tourist Information (指宿駅総合観光案内所; %0993-22-4114; h9am-

6pm; W) The station’s tourist info desk offers a variety of services beyond just

maps, directions and brochures. It can help with hotel reservations and even

deliver luggage to your lodging in town for ¥400 if you arrive by 3pm.

8 Getting There & Away

Ibusuki Station is about 1½ hours from Kagoshima by bus (¥950) or 51

minutes by train from Kagoshima-chūō ( tokkyū ¥2130). Train geeks and

sightseers will love the one-of-a-kind wood-panelled Ibutama tokkyū with

specially angled seats for breathtaking bay views.

8 Getting Around

The Nottari-Oritari My Plan Bus (¥1100 per day) offers unlimited hop-on,

hop-off service around Ibusuki highlights. Rent bikes (¥500 for two hours)

from the station. Car-rental offices are steps away.

Chiran

%0993

A river runs through Chiran (知覧), 34km south of Kagoshima, parallel to a

collection of restored samurai houses, surrounded by placid green tea and

sweet-potato fields. At the town’s edge is a fascinating museum about

WWII’s kamikaze pilots.

1 Sights

o Chiran Peace Museum

MUSEUM

(知覧特攻平和会館, Kamikaze Peace Museum; %0993-83-2525; www.chiran-tokkou.jp;

17881 Chiran-chō; ¥500; h9am-5pm)

There is perhaps no more eloquent monument to the futility of war than this

harrowing museum about WWII kamikaze pilots. Around 2km west of town,

Chiran’s air base was the point of departure for 1036 WWII tokkō (‘special

attack forces’, as the pilots were formally known), the biggest percentage in

the Japanese military. On the base’s former site, this large, thought-

provoking museum presents aircraft, mementos, photographs and footage of

the fresh-faced young men selected for the ultimate sacrifice.

While much of the signage is in Japanese only, it’s well worth investing in

the Englishlanguage audio guide (rental ¥200), which offers details about

many of the individual pilots. You’ll need a heart of stone not to be moved

by their stories.

Samurai Houses

HISTORIC BUILDING

(武家屋敷; 6198 Chiran-chō; combined admission to all houses ¥500; h9am-5pm)

Seven of the mid-Edo-period residences along Chiran’s 700m street of

samurai houses have gardens open to the public. Water is usually symbolised

in the gardens by sand, shirasu (volcanic ash) or gravel. Allow up to one

leisurely hour to view them all.

WORTH A TRIP

ARCHAEOLOGICAL FINDS IN SOUTHERN KYŪSHŪ

Uenohara Jōmon no Mori

Archaeology enthusiasts will want to detour to this museum (上野原縄文の森; %0995-48-

5701; 1-1 Uenohara Jōmon-no-mori, Kokubu; ¥310; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), on the site where the

oldest authenticated Jōmon-era pottery shards were uncovered – during excavations for nearby

office parks. Based on these findings, anthropologists began to conclude that the first humans

may have come to Japan from the south, rather than the north as previously thought, via canoes

or rafts along the Ryūkyū island chain. The futuristic main building offers lots of artefacts, with

detailed English explanations via smartphone. Outside, about 1.5 km of trails through the park-

like grounds connect recreated Jōmon-era dwellings. The museum can be reached by train from

Kagoshima to Kokubu, from where it’s about 8km (20 minutes) by taxi or private car.

Saitobaru Burial Mounds Park

North of Miyazaki, the Saitobaru Burial Mounds Park looks like a golf course at first glance,

but the hillocks dotting the several square kilometres of fields and forests are actually more than

300 kofun (tumuli; burial mounds). These mostly keyhole-shaped mounds, dating from AD 300

to 600, served much the same function as Egyptian pyramids for early Japanese nobility. Bike

rental is free.

The large Saitobaru Archaeological Museum (西都原考古博物館; %0983-41-0041; 5670

Miyake; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F displays excavated items such as Jōmon pottery, ancient

swords, armour and haniwa (earthenware figures). Rent the English audio guide (¥400); signage

is in Japanese. A hall nearby is built around an excavation site.

Buses run twice a day to Saitobaru from Miyakō bus terminal (¥1140, 70 minutes) in

Miyazaki, but you’ll need your own transport if you want to explore the tomb-strewn

countryside. Saitobaru is not covered by the Visit Miyazaki Bus Pass.

5 Eating

Taki-An

NOODLES

¥

(高城庵; %0993-83-3186; 6329 Chiran-chō; soba ¥660, set meals from ¥1080; h10.30am-3pm)

Just off the samurai street, Taki-An is a lovely restaurant in another

traditional house where you can sit on tatami and admire the garden over hot

or cold ocha udon (noodles made with green tea; ¥650) or Satsuma

specialities such as tonkotsu teishoku (pork set meal; ¥1650) and Chiran’s

famous green tea. Picture menu available.

8 Information

Chiran Samurai Residence & Garden Preservation Association (知覧武

家屋敷庭園事務所; %0993-58-7878; www.chiran-bukeyashiki.jp; 13731-1 Chiran-chō; h9am-5pm) This tourist info office details everything you’ll need to know about the

samurai houses. There’s even a helmet you can try on for size.

8 Getting There & Away

Kagoshima Kōtsū (鹿児島交通) buses to Chiran (samurai houses/Peace

Museum ¥890/930, 80/85 minutes, hourly) stop in Tenmonkan and near JR

Kagoshima-Chūō Station. From Chiran, buses run five times daily to Ibusuki

(¥940, 69 minutes).

Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park 国立公園霧島

Pockmarked with volcanic craters, crisscrossed by hiking trails and boasting

some lovely coastal scenery, Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park straddles

northern Kagoshima and western Miyazaki Prefectures. There are excellent

hikes of many lengths, although ash eruptions, toxic gases and other

volcanic activity sometimes change accessibility. The area is known for its

wild azaleas, hot springs and the 75m waterfall Senrigataki (千里ケ滝). It’s

also famous in Japanese mythology as being the place where the gods first

descended to earth and began the imperial dynasty, said to be unbroken to

this day.

Hikers should monitor the weather closely before setting out. Apart from

volcanic conditions, thunderstorms and fog are common during the rainy

season (mid-May to June) and winters can be bitter; otherwise, the vistas are

superb.

Daily weather updates are available at the visitor centres.

1 Sights

Kirishima-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

(霧島神宮; 2608-5 Kirishima-Taguchi; h24hr) F

Picturesque, tangerine Kirishima-jingū has a good vantage point. Though the

original dates from the 6th century, the present shrine was built in 1715. It is

dedicated to Ninigi-no-mikoto, who, according to Kojiki (a book compiled in

712), led the gods from the heavens to the Takachiho-no-mine summit. The

shrine is accessible by bus (¥240, 15 minutes) from JR Kirishima-jingū

Station.

There’s a small village with inns and restaurants at the foot of the shrine.

Ebino-kōgen Eco Museum Centre

NATURE CENTRE

(えびのエコミュージアムセンター; %0984-33-3002; 1-4 Suenaga, Ebino-shi; h9am-

5pm) F

This attractive, lodge-like tourist centre has information, maps, models of

the area’s wildlife, topography and nature (in easily understandable English)

and helpful staff. There’s a video of the 2011 eruption of the Shinmoe-dake

volcano and important info about daily volcanic eruptions for hikers. If

conditions don’t permit you to get out into nature itself, this is a good stand-

in.

2 Activities

This gorgeous area is blessed with great hiking and sublime onsen, both

natural and artificial. Views from the peaks are particularly stunning – well

worth taking time for.

Hiking

The Ebino-kōgen circuit is a relaxed 4km stroll around a series of volcanic

lakes – Rokkannon Mi-ike is a stunning, intensely cyan lake. Across the

road from the lake, Fudō-ike, at the base of Karakuni-dake, is a steaming

jigoku (boiling hot spring). The stiffer climb to the 1700m summit of

Karakunidake skirts the edge of the volcano’s deep crater before arriving at

the high point on the eastern side. The panoramic view south is outstanding,

taking in the perfectly circular caldera lake of Ōnami-ike, Shinmoe-dake

(the volcano that erupted in January 2011; parts remain inaccessible) and the

perfect cone of Takachiho-no-mine. On a clear day, you can see Kagoshima

and the smoking molar of Sakurajima. Friendly wild deer roam freely

through the town of Ebino-kōgen and are happy to be photographed.

Onsen

This area has numerous onsen, both ‘wild’ ones (just hot spots in rivers!) to

expansive onsen hotels. You will see steam rising from numerous places as

you travel around. All of the hotels in this area have baths, and a number of

hotels make their baths available to day visitors. Some onsen include mixed-

gender bathing pools as well as segregated male and female baths.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Lodgings are clustered near Kirishima-jingū and in Ebino-kōgen village.

With towns so spread out, eating options are limited; most visitors eat at

their hotels. Most village shops close by 5pm.

Kirishima Jingū-mae Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

¥

(霧島神宮前ユースホステル; %0995-57-1188; 2459-83 Kirishima-Taguchi; dm HI

member/nonmember ¥3390/3990, minshuku per person incl 2 meals ¥7710; paiW)

A few minutes from Kirishima-jingū, this neat, comfy youth hostel has

Japanese rooms, and mountain views from its onsen. Breakfast/dinner costs

¥540/1080. It also operates as a more expensive minshuku, with better meals

and a rotemburo.

Minshuku Kirishima-ji

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(民宿きりしま路; %0995-57-0272; 2459 Kirishima-Taguchi; r per person with/without 2 meals

¥7080/4500; p)

This spartan but friendly six-room inn, just across the gorge from the shrine,

has forest views and shared onsen. Day visitors can stop here for a lunch of

house-made soba dishes (¥480 to ¥880), including a house-special champon

(Nagasaki-style ramen). Day use of the bath is possible for ¥300.

o Ebino-Kōgen Sō

HOTEL

¥¥¥

(えびの高原荘; %0984-33-0161; www.ebinokogenso.com; 1489 Ōaza Suenaga; r per person incl 2 meals & with/without bathroom from ¥10,500/9500; pnaW)

This friendly onsen hotel boasts some excellent facilities, including

mountain-view rooms (mostly Japanese style), coin laundry, and English-

speaking staff. The lovely rotemburo (¥520) is open to the public from

11.30am to 8pm, and there’s a family-style bath deep in the forest (¥1030 per

hour). The location, near Ebino-kōgen village, is superb and the restaurant

makes tasty meals.

Rates may be lower depending on meals, which might include kaiseki

dinners, so ask when you reserve. Also ask about shuttlebus services serving

trailheads and train stations.

8 Information

Nature centres at each end of the volcano walk have bilingual maps and

hiking information, and exhibits on local wildlife.

Ebino-kōgen Eco Museum Centre This attractive, lodge-like tourist centre

has information, maps, models of the area’s wildlife, topography and nature,

and helpful staff. There’s a video of the 2011 eruption of the Shinmoe-dake

volcano and important info about daily volcanic eruptions for hikers.

Kirishima City Tourist Information (霧島市観光案内所; %0995-57-1588;

2459-6 Taguchi; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) Right near the giant torii (shrine

gate) at the entrance to Kirishima-jingū. There’s a foot onsen steps from the

entrance. Rental bikes are available but not cheap (¥1000 per two hours).

Takachiho-gawara Visitors Centre (高千穂河原ビジターセンター; %0995-

57-2505; h9am-5pm) A small visitor centre at the base of Takachiho with hiking

info, maps and safety suggestions.

8 Getting There & Around

The main train junctions are JR Kobayashi Station, northeast of Ebino

Plateau, and Kirishima-jingū Station to the south.

Two buses per day connect the Kirishima-jingū area with Ebino-kōgen

(¥990), but this region is vastly more accessible by car.

Miyazaki 宮崎

%0985 / POP 401,000

The prefectural capital of Miyazaki (宮崎) makes a convenient base for

forays around the region, with a friendly, low-key vibe and fun, unique

restaurants and night spots in the Nishitachi nightlife district, about 700m

from the station.

Miyazaki

1 Sights

1 Miyazaki Science Centre

D2

4 Sleeping

2 Hotel Route Inn

B1

3 Miyazaki Kankō Hotel

B4

5 Eating

4 Family Ogura Segashira-ten

C4

5 Ippei Sushi

C4

6 Miyachiku

B4

7 Ogura Honten

B1

8 Okashi no Hidaka

A2

9 Togakushi

A2

10 Yamakataya Department Store

B1

6 Drinking & Nightlife

11 Actors Square Coffee

B1

12 Igokochiya Anbai

A2

13 The Bar

B2

1 Sights

Heiwadai-kōen

PARK

(平和台公園, Peace Park; %098-535-3181; www.heiwadai-bunkakoen.info; h24hr)

The park’s centrepiece is the 37m-high Peace Tower monument constructed

in 1940, a time when peace in Japan was about to disappear. Its timeless

design may remind you of ancient Inca or Khmer monuments, and it’s made

of stones from all over the world. The Haniwa Garden is dotted with

reproductions of clay haniwa (earthenware figures found in Kōfun-period

tombs) excavated from the Saitobaru burial mounds, set among mossy

hillocks.

Heiwadai-kōen is about 1km north of Miyazaki-jingū. Buses from

Miyazaki Station stop along Tachibana-dōri (¥290, 20 minutes, at least two

per hour).

Miyazaki-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

(宮崎神宮; 2-4-1 Jingū) F

This shrine honours Emperor Jimmu, the semi-mythical first emperor of

Japan and founder of the Yamato court. Spectacular centuries-old wisteria

vines cover the thickly forested grounds and bloom in April. It’s a 500m

walk from Miyazaki-jingū Station, one stop (¥160, three minutes) north of

Miyazaki Station.

Miyazaki Science Centre

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宮崎科学技術館; %0985-23-2700; 1-2-2 Miyazaki-eki Higashi; with/without sky show ¥750/540; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

Steps away from Miyazaki Station, this family-friendly interactive science

museum boasts one of the world’s largest planetariums; some exhibits

include English translations. Look for the life-size rocket replica outside the

entrance. Inside, see robots and a spaceship lander.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Route Inn

BUSINESS HOTEL

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルルートイン宮崎; %0985-61-1488; www.route-inn.co.jp; 4-1-

27 Tachibana-dōri-nishi; s/d/tw incl breakfast ¥6800/12,800/13,550; pnaiW)

Across from the Nishitachi district, this 213-room hotel is excellent value,

with a great breakfast buffet, spacious, decently appointed rooms, free coffee

in the granite lobby and common baths (in addition to private bathrooms).

Miyazaki Kankō Hotel

HOTEL

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 宮崎観光ホテル; %0985-27-1212; www.miyakan-h.com; 1-1-1

Matsuyama; s/tw from ¥9720/18,360; pnaiW)

This towering hotel has two buildings: the west wing, and the more recently

remodelled east wing (with room prices ¥2000 to ¥3000 more per person).

Even if the decor in the public spaces is a little frilly and dated, rooms are

relatively spacious, there are several fine restaurants, and there’s an onsen

with rotemburo (day use ¥1000).

The hotel is next to the river, which means some lovely views from rooms

and nice strolls in the evening, but it’s quite far to walk from the station and

nightlife district.

5 Eating

o Okashi no Hidaka

SWEETS

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; お菓子の日高; %0985-25-5300; 2-7-25 Tachibana-dōri-nishi; sweets from ¥100; h9am-9pm)

At this family-run legend, in business since the early 1950s, peruse the

refrigerator case of luscious-looking Japanese and Western pastries, but

order the giant nanjakō-daifuku (dumpling of sweet bean paste, strawberry,

chestnut and cream cheese in a wrapper of airy mochi; ¥390). Cheese manju

(dumplings; ¥175) and sweets made with local Hyūga-natsu (oranges) are

other signature tastes of Miyazaki.

If time permits, staff will serve your sweet with tea right there in the store.

Ippei Sushi

SUSHI

¥

( MAP ; 一平寿司; %0985-25-2215; www.ippei-sushi.com; 1-8-8 Matsuyama; mains ¥1000-2400,

sushi per piece from ¥120; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Wed-Mon; p)

This cosy, family-style shop is credited as the inventor, in 1966, of the retasu

maki (lettuce roll) sushi, in which crunchy lettuce substitutes for nori

(seaweed) around shrimp, rice and house-made mayonnaise. A mere ¥1000

gets you a plate of the rolls or an assortment including more typical, super-

fresh, sushi. This being Kyūshū, there’s a great shōchū selection.

Look for the whitewashed facade with gold characters and sushi models in

cases.

Togakushi

NOODLES

¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 戸隠; %0985-24-6864; www.miyazaki-togakushi.com; 7-10 Chūō-dōri;

noodles ¥650-950; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat)

Togakushi has no English menu, but any difficulties this may present are

worth it for the delicate, thin kama-age udon (barrel-boiled wheat noodles;

¥650), for dipping in a tangy negi (green onion) sauce, tempura-ko (tempura

crispies) and refreshing yuzu (Japanese citron); pour the water from the

noodles into the sauce to make soup. This is what locals crave after a bender.

Look for the giant red lantern in front of the traditional house.

o Ogura Honten

JAPANESE

¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; おぐら本店; %0985-22-2296; 3-4-24 Tachibanahigashi; chikin nanban

¥1010, other mains ¥670-1300; h11am-3pm & 5-8.30pm Wed-Mon)

Chikin nanban (sweet fried chicken with tartar sauce; pictured on the menu)

was invented here in 1961, and crowds still flock to this no-frills shop under

a red-and-white awning, in the alley behind Yamakataya Department

Store ( MAP   GOOGLE MAP ; 山形屋; %0985-31-3111; www.yamakataya.co.jp/miyazaki; 3-4-12

Tachibanadōri-higashi; h10am-7.30pm). There are also riffs on curry rice and

tonkatsu; the ‘business set’ (¥1010) is a half-order each of chikin nanban and

a hamburger steak.

For shorter queues, try the larger, kitsch-filled sister shop, Family Ogura

Segashira (ファミリーおぐら瀬頭店; %0985-23-5301; 2-2-23 Segashira; chikin

nanban ¥1010, meals ¥800-1670; h11am-9pm; c).

o Miyachiku

STEAK

¥¥¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; みやちく; %0985-62-1129; 2nd fl, Miyazaki Kankō Hotel, 1-1-1

Matsuyama; set menu lunch/dinner from ¥2500/5900; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm)

If you’re going to splurge on Miyazaki gyū (beef), do it at this gracious

yakiniku and steak house with river views. Lunch set menus are a nice deal,

with appetiser, salad, beef, vegetables, dessert and coffee.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Actors Square Coffee

CAFE

( MAP ; アクターズスクエアコーヒー; %0985-26-8577; www.actors-sq.com; 2nd fl, 3-6-

34 Tachibanadōri-higashi; hnoon-midnight Mon & Wed-Fri, to 2am Sat, to 9pm Sun; W)

A cool, young vibe pervades this spacious, mid-century-styled cafe perched

above the arcade. Sip coffees from around the world or original coffee drinks

like the ‘grasshopper’ or the trail-mix latte, or order from the large cocktail

menu and the selection of craft beers. There are occasional live music

events, and food includes fried-chicken plates and curry rice.

Igokochiya Anbai

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; いごこち屋 あんばい; %0985-27-4117; 3-3-33 Tachibanadōri-nishi; h6pm-1am Mon-Sat)

Anbai is a sophisticated izakaya with more than 350 varieties of shōchū,

well-chosen local dishes and cool background music. Not much English is

spoken, but the ‘mamasan’ (hostess) is extremely kind, and if you order

alcohol staff will bring the bottle so you can study the label as you sip.

Look for the giant ball of cedar fronds next door to Menya Katsumi.

The Bar

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ザ・バー; %0985-71-0423; www.thebarmiyazaki.info; 3rd fl, Paul Smith

Bldg, 3-7-15 Tachibanadōri-higashi; h7pm-3am; W)

This hub of the expat community and its local friends draws a cheery mixed

crowd who are proud of the city and keen to welcome visitors over

Miyazaki-brewed craft beers, mojitos made with mint from the owner’s

garden, giant Jenga and a well-used, full-size billiard table. Plus, it’s

nonsmoking, a rarity in Japan.

Note: there’s another ‘the Bar’ across town, near the Tachibana arcade.

8 Information

Miyazaki Prefectural International Plaza (宮崎県国際交流協会; %0985-32-

8457; 9th fl, Carino Bldg; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat) Information good for longer-term

visitors who need to make connections, find services or job hunt; walk to the

back of the building to find this office on the 9th floor.

Tourist Information Center (宮崎市観光案内所; %0985-22-6469; h9am-6pm)

This helpful and ever-friendly centre inside JR Miyazaki Station has maps of

the city and its surroundings.

VISIT MIYAZAKI BUS PASS

For budget travellers not in a hurry, this bus pass (www.miyakoh.co.jp; ¥1500 per day) is a

fabulous deal, covering most Miyazaki buses including those to Aoshima and Nichinan Coast;

however, it does not include buses that go to Takachiho or Nobeoka. Buy the pass at tourist

counters and some hotels.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Miyazaki is served by a variety of airlines that fly to Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya,

Fukuoka, Okinawa, Seoul, Taipei and Hong Kong. Miyazaki Airport

(www.miyazaki-airport.co.jp) is connected to the city centre by bus (¥440, 26

minutes) or train (¥350, 10 minutes) from JR Miyazaki Station.

BOAT

Miyazaki Car Ferry (宮崎カーフェリー; %0985-29-5566;

www.miyazakicarferry.com; 3-14 Minato; 2nd class from ¥9050) Links Miyazaki with Kōbe (12 hours).

BUS

Bus routes include Kagoshima (¥2780, three hours), Kumamoto (¥4630, 3½

hours), Nagasaki (¥6690, 5½ hours) and Fukuoka (¥4630, 4½ hours). Phone

the Miyazaki Eki Bus Centre (宮崎駅バスセンター; %0985-23-0106) for

more info.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Car rental (12 hours from about ¥5500) is the most convenient way to

explore the coastal region outside the city. There are many agencies outside

the station’s west exit.

TRAIN

The JR Nippō line runs down to Kagoshima ( tokkyū ¥4020, two hours) and

up to Beppu ( tokkyū ¥5790, 3¼ hours).

8 Getting Around

Most city bus services use the Miyazaki Eki Bus Centre diagonally opposite

the train station.

For the Nishitachi nightlife district, the Tachibana dori 3-chome bus

stop is the most convenient.

Aoshima 青島

%0985

Aoshima (青島) is both a tiny palm-covered island (1.5km in circumference)

and the name of the adjacent mainland town, one of Japan’s more relaxed

communities. Surfers and sunbathers come for its lovely beaches, strewn

with sand dollars after rough storms, and it’s also a training ground for

Japanese sports teams. All in all, it’s a laid-back alternative to staying in

central Miyazaki.

The first thing you’ll notice as you cross the Yayoibashi bridge (120m) to

the island of Aoshima is the unique geological feature surrounding it. Called

the devil’s washboard (oni no sentaku-ita; 鬼の洗濯板), the rows of rock

formations look just like a washboard of centuries ago. They’re best viewed

at low tide. An estimated 200 plant and animal species (including some 5000

biro palm trees, up to 350 years old) can be found within the island’s 1.6km

circumference.

Besides its natural beauty, the island boasts the photogenic Shintō shrine

Aoshimajinja (青島神社; %0985-65-1262; https://aoshima-jinja.jp; 2-13-1 Aoshima; h8am-

5pm), reputedly good for matchmaking. To the right of the main shrine, a path

lined with a few heart-shaped arches leads to a smaller shrine at the island’s

geographic centre. Next to it are twin palm trees called meoto (female and

male) biro. Would-be lovers can purchase brightly coloured strings (¥100) to

tie to ropes between the trees as an offering.

Visit the Legend of Hyūga Hall (日向神話館; %098-565-1262; ¥600; h8am-6pm

Jul & Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun) here to learn about Japan’s origin myths and stories.

4 Sleeping

o Aoshima Fisherman’s Beachside Hostel & Spa

HOSTEL

¥

(青島フィッシャーマンズ・ビーチサイドホステル＆スパ; %0985-77-5525;

www.aoshima-hostel.com; 3-1-53 Aoshima; dm/s/tw/tr/q without bathroom

¥1980/5700/6200/9300/9960; paiW; dAoshima)

If this spanking-new, oceanfront hostel is the way things are going, that’s an

excellent sign. Built of Miyazaki cedar, its modern campus offers two dorms

and 81 private rooms, all with access to shared kitchen spaces. There are

three restaurants (Italian, seafood and Japanese), plus onsen with rotemburo

and sauna (¥540 extra), though no ocean views.

Day users of the spa pay once and can return all day.

o Minshuku Misakisō

MINSHUKU

¥¥

(民宿みさき荘; %0985-65-0038; www.misakisou.com; 1-5-4 Aoshima; s/d without bathroom

¥5000/8000; paW)

Gracious and friendly, this modern minshuku is a one-stop shop: a place to

stay, a (guests-only) bar, a lunchtime cafe and a surf-rental outlet (boards

from ¥3000; cafe and rental closed Wednesday). Rooms are mainly Japanese

style, with one Western option. All are clean and very convenient for surfers

or sunbathers: just cross the street and you’re at the beach.

No English is spoken, but the owners are friendly and warm.

The cafe (mains ¥600 to ¥700, lunch set ¥850, open 11am to 3pm) does

curry rice, chikin nanban (sweet fried chicken served with tartar sauce) and

other simple dishes.

5 Eating

Aoshima Beach Park

FOOD HALL

¥¥

(青島ビーチパーク; %0985-65-1055; www.aoshimabeachpark.com; 2-233 Aoshima; prices

vary; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun late Apr-Jul & Sep-early Oct, 9am-9pm Aug; pc)

In a nation with lots of sea coast but precious little recreational beachfront,

this new spot along the promenade facing Aoshima Island is a breath of

fresh air. There’s a hipsterfriendly outdoor food court of pop-up restaurants

in renovated shipping containers (check website for current offerings) and

picnic-table seating. In peak season, nighttime might bring DJ events and

fireworks.

Minato Aoshima

SEAFOOD

¥¥

(港あおしま; %0985-65-1044; 3-5-1 Aoshima; set menus ¥1100-1700; h11am-2.30pm Tue-Sun)

Overlooking the port, and owned and run by the local fishermen’s collective,

this take-your-shoes-off spot offers some of the finest and freshest seafood

that Aoshima has to offer. Most meals are sets such as kaisen-don (raw

seafood over rice) and ise-ebi (with several side dishes and miso soup).

8 Information

Aoshima Tourist Information (青島観光インフォメーション; %0985-65-

1121; Aoshiymaya, 2-12-1 Aoshima; h9.30am-3.30pm) Inside the new tourist complex

Aoshimaya, which also offers restaurants and souvenir and snack shops.

8 Getting There & Away

Aoshima is on the JR Nichinan line from Miyazaki (¥370, 30 minutes). It’s

about 800m to the island from the station.

Buses from Miyazaki Station stop at Aoshima (¥720, 48 minutes, hourly)

en route to Udo-jingū (¥1480); the Visit Miyazaki bus pass also covers

Aoshima.

Nichinan Coast 日南

The palm-lined stretch of coastal road from Aoshima to Toi-misaki (都井岬;

Cape Toi) via the town of Nichinan (日南) is a rewarding drive, with seaside

cliffs and views of the islands reminiscent of gumdrops and camels. On

sunny days the light pierces the water and turns it an electric-blue colour,

making for lovely photos at nearly every turn. Cape Toi and Kō-jima are

popular destinations. En route is Koigaura-hama (Koigaura Beach), where

the surf-zoku (surf tribe) hang out.

If you turn inland, drive slowly: several bands of wild monkeys inhabit

the mountains, and it’s often possible to see them. Earthworms the size of

garter snakes are another curious denizen.

1 Sights

Udo-jingū

SHINTO SHRINE

(鵜戸神宮; %0987-29-1001; 3232 Ōaza Miyaura)

Reached via a coastal path, this brightly painted Shintō shrine occupies an

open cavern overlooking unusual rock formations in the cove below. In 2017

the Japanese government designated it a site of special scenic beauty. It’s

protocol to buy five undama (luck stones; ¥100), make a wish, and try to hit

the shallow depression on top of the turtleshaped rock.

Men use their left hand, women their right, when making the throw.

Wishes are usually related to marriage, childbirth and lactation, because the

boulders in front of the cavern are said to represent Emperor Jimmu’s

grandmother’s breasts (no, really!).

Hourly buses from Aoshima (¥1010, 36 minutes) and Miyazaki (¥1480,

1½ hours) stop on the highway. From the bus stop, it’s about a 700m walk to

the shrine past interesting rock formations and picturesque fishing boats.

Far and away the best transport option for this area is a rental car, as you’ll

want to stop at nearly every corner to take photographs. You can be dropped

off by bus at Cape Toi, but the park is vast and driving is perhaps the best –

or only realistic – way to get around.

Obi 飫肥

%0987

In the quaint town of Obi (飫肥), nicknamed ‘Little Kyoto’, the wealthy Ito

clan ruled from Obi-jō (飫肥城) for 14 generations from 1587, somehow

surviving the ‘one kingdom, one castle’ ruling in 1615. The castle-ruin area

is now the main tourist attraction.

It’s also worth exploring the joka-machi (area below the castle), which has

photogenic streetscapes, streetside canals so clean that carp can swim in

them, and a historic shopping thoroughfare.

Purchase the Eatabout/Walkabout Map (in Japanese: あゆみちゃんの

マップ, Ayumi-chan no mappu; with/without museum combination ticket

¥1200/700), and at numbered buildings around town you can exchange tear-

off tickets on the map for snacks or craft or gift items. The best part of it is

getting to know the local people in the process.

4 Sleeping

Kiraku

RENTAL HOUSE

¥¥¥

(季楽; %0987-25-1905; www.nazuna.co; 8-1-48 Obi; tw ¥29,000; paW)

Cheap it isn’t, but how often can you stay in a samurai house? This large

(100 sq metre) former castle guard house has been renovated in Japanese

minimalist-modernist style (dark wood, stone floors, kitchen, cypress

bathtub) and sleeps up to six, with options for futons or beds. It’s a real

retreat, and the owner provides a list of local restaurants.

Arrangements are handled out of Komura Kinenkan Museum. Prices do

not include tax.

5 Eating

Many of the historic buildings in the central area are now lovely restaurants

and cafes, most with English menus. The region is Japan’s largest source of

line-caught katsuo (bonito), served in restaurants throughout town. Fried

fish-paste ‘tempura’ is another local speciality, so tasty it’s almost addictive.

Most eating spots have English menus.

Obiten

JAPANESE

¥

(おび天; %0987-25-5717; 9-1-8 Obi; mains ¥600-1050, set meals ¥1100-1360; h9am-5pm)

By Obi-jo this old-school shop makes and sells a local version of Satsuma-

age (fried cakes of fish paste and vegetables, here called tempura). The

signature Obiten with udon is ¥900.

Gallery Kodama

JAPANESE

¥¥

(ギャラリーこだま; %0987-25-0602; 8-1-1 Obi; bonito set meal ¥1500; h11am-3pm Wed-

Mon)

Try local bonito multiple ways in a set meal called katsuoaburi-ju. Bonito in

two marinades can be eaten raw, grilled over your own tiny hibachi or

nestled over broth with rice and condiments – or all three; instructions are

provided in English. The antique-filled house has been in the same family

for nine generations.

Look for the white-stucco-and-brownlattice building on the main road, by

the road sign for Nichinan Dam Park.

8 Information

Obi Castle Tourist Information (飫肥城観光案内; %0987-25-3308; h9.30am-

4.30pm)

8 Getting There & Away

The JR Nichinan line connects Obi with Miyazaki ( kaisoku ¥940, 65

minutes) via Aoshima (¥560, 40 minutes). From Obi Station, it’s a 10- to 15-

minute walk to the castle. Buses from Miyazaki (¥2080, 2¼ hours, last

return bus 4pm) stop below the castle entrance.

Rent bikes (¥500 per day) in the castle parking lot and at JR Obi Station.

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Ōsumi Islands

Yakushima

Tanegashima

Amami Islands

Amami-Ōshima

Yoron-tō

Okinawa-hontō

Naha

Southern Okinawa-hontō

Motobu Peninsula

Kerama Islands

Aka-jima

Zamami-jima

Kume-jima

Miyako Islands

Miyako-jima

Irabu-jima & Shimoji-jima

Yaeyama Islands

Ishigaki-jima

Iriomote-jima

Taketomi-jima

Hateruma-jima

Yonaguni-jima

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

Why Go?

Collectively known as the Southwest Islands, the Nanseishotō (南西諸島)

comprises several chains of semitropical, coral-fringed isles far removed from

the concerns of mainland life, where the slow pace and unique cultural heritage

of the former Ryūkyū kingdom endures, offering a vibrant contrast to Japan’s

obsession with modernity, technology and homogeneity.

Since WWII, Okinawa-hontō, the region’s biggest island, has been home to

several key US military installations in the Pacific and a sometimes uneasy

meeting of East and West. Okinawa’s bustling capital Naha and the sprawling

resorts further north draw steady streams of shopping, sun-seeking and

honeymooning tourists from neighbouring Asian nations.

But seekers of nature and isolation will love the diversity and beauty of the

smaller islands, from Yakushima’s primeval forests and craggy peaks to the

turquoise waters and soft sands of the Amami, Kerama and Miyako groups,

and the spectacular coral, dense jungles and mangroves of the Yaeyamas,

furthest south.

When to Go

May & Jun Coincides with rainy season; while not too intense, sunshine may

be scarce.

Jul–Sep Best time to enjoy the beaches, but expect big crowds and

increasingly frequent typhoons.

Oct–Mar Water is cooler but swimmable, and you’ll have entire beaches to

yourself.

Best Places to Eat

A Yūnangi

A Rāmen House Tida

A Shanghai Wantan Rō

A Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba

A Pōcha Tatsuya

A Ryūkyū Ryōri Nuchigafū

Best Places to Stay

A Hoshinoya Taketomi-jima

A Sōyōtei

A Hyakuna Garan

A Nest at Amami

A Sankara Hotel & Spa

A Art Hotel Ishigaki

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands Highlights

1 Kaiji-hama Hunting for star-sand on the delightfuTaketomi-jima.

2 Jōmon-sugi Hiking to admire this 300 year old cedar tree deep in the

interior of Yakushima.

3 Sunayama Beach Snorkelling among corals on the most beautiful beach

on Miyako-jima.

4 Sunset Beach Swimming in the azure waters of this protected beach, on

Ishigaki-jima.

5 Bade Haus Kumejima Soaking in mineral-rich onsen on Kume-jima.

6 Naha Gaining insight into Okinawa’s wartime past, rich cultural heritage

and significance.

7 Space Science & Technology Museum Learning about the Japanese

space program on Tanegashima.

8 Yoron Minzoku-mura Learning the local lingo in this retrospectively

Ryūkyūan cultural centre on Yoron-tō.

History

After centuries ruled by aji (local chieftains), in 1429 Okinawa and the

Southwest Islands were united by Sho Hashi of the Chūzan kingdom, which

led to the establishment of the Ryūkyū dynasty. During this period, Sho Hashi

increased contact with China, which contributed to the flourishing of

Okinawan music, dance, literature and ceramics. In this ‘Golden Era’ weapons

were prohibited, and the islands were rewarded with peace and tranquillity.

But the Ryūkyū kingdom was not prepared for war when the Shimazu clan

of Satsuma (modern-day Kagoshima) invaded in 1609. The Shimazu

conquered the kingdom easily and established severe controls over its trade.

The islands were controlled with an iron fist, and taxed and exploited greedily

for the next 250 years.

With the restoration of the Meiji emperor, the Ryūkyūs were annexed to

Japan as Okinawa Prefecture in 1879. However, life hardly changed for the

islanders as they were treated as foreign subjects by the Japanese government.

Furthermore, the Meiji government stamped out local culture by outlawing the

teaching of Ryūkyū history in schools, and establishing Japanese as the official

language.

In the closing days of WWII, the Japanese military made a decision to use

the islands of Okinawa as a shield against Allied forces. This cost the islanders

dearly: more than 100,000 Okinawan civilians lost their lives in the Battle of

Okinawa.

Following the war, the occupation of the Japanese mainland ended in 1952,

but Okinawa remained under US control until 1972. Its return was contingent

upon Japan agreeing to allow the Americans to maintain bases on the islands;

and some 30,000 American military personnel remain today.

Climate

The Southwest Islands have a subtropical climate. With the exception of the

peaks of Yakushima, which can be snow-capped between December and

February, there’s no real winter. You can comfortably travel the Southwest

Islands any time of year, but swimming might be uncomfortable between late

October and early May, unless you’re the hardy sort.

The average daily temperature on Okinawa-hontō in December is 19°C,

while in July it is 29.4°C. The islands of Kagoshima Prefecture average a few

degrees cooler, while the Yaeyama and Miyako Islands are a few degrees

warmer, although they often feel less hot and humid than Okinawa due to the

prevailing sea breezes.

The islands are most crowded during June, July and August and during the

Golden Week holiday in early May. Outside of these times, the islands are

often blissfully quiet.

The main thing to keep in mind when planning a trip to the Southwest

Islands is the possibility of typhoons, which have been increasing in frequency

and intensity in recent years and can strike any time between June and October.

If you go then, build flexibility into your schedule, as typhoons often cause

transport delays.

Ideally purchase tickets that allow changes without incurring a fee. The

website of the Japan Meteorological Agency (www.jma.go.jp/en/typh) has the

latest details on typhoons approaching Japan.

Language

Although the Ryūkyū Islands used to have their own distinctive languages, by

and large these have disappeared. Standard Japanese is spoken by most

islanders, though perhaps with some strong regional dialects and intonations.

You might also hear some Okinawan phrases, such as mensōre (‘welcome’)

instead of the standard Japanese yōkoso – or nifei dēbiru instead of arigatō.

8 Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Every swimming beach you visit on any of the main islands will alert you to

the potential dangers of marine stingers, the likes of box jellyfish (ハブくらげ;

habu kurage) and venomous snakes – also called habu – the latter, being a kind

of viper unique to the Ryūkyū islands whose bite can be deadly. But what are

the risks? The answer to that question, of course, depends on who you talk to.

Between them the Southwest Islands have hundreds of kilometres of mostly

spectacular coastline and visitors are told they should only swim in the netted

areas of designated ‘swimming’ beaches, but that precludes many of the

‘secret’ beaches that you might come across on your own intrepid explorations.

The venom of the box jellyfish is capable of causing paralysis and cardiac

arrest in humans and, at least, an incredibly painful sting.

Deaths caused by both box jellyfish stings and habu snakebites are

uncommon, but the threat is real and shouldn’t be treated lightly. Wherever

possible, do swim in netted areas, and if you just must swim in a non-patrolled

zone, be sure to check with locals if jellyfish are about. Camp cautiously and

wear covered shoes if you plan to be traipsing through long grass and if you

find yourself feeling like you’ve been bitten or stung, seek help immediately.

8 Getting There & Away

Air

There are flights on Japan’s big two airlines, Japan Airlines (JAL) and All

Nippon Airways (ANA) between major cities in mainland Japan and Amami-

Ōshima, Okinawa-hontō, Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima. Kagoshima has

flights to/from all these islands and many of the smaller islands as well. Other

islands such as Yonaguni-jima and Kume-jima can be reached from Naha or

Ishigaki. In recent years, a number of low-cost airlines have commenced

services from a variety of cities into Naha and a handful of other island

destinations. It pays to shop around and explore different route combinations

before you travel.

OKINAWA AIR PASSES

If you are arriving in Japan by air, there are a number of flight passes available

that offer excellent savings on flights to/from and around the Southwest

Islands. As a general rule, tickets are non-changeable and non-refundable,

though some exceptions apply. Some of the better passes and fares available at

time of writing, include the following:

Japan Explorer Pass and ANA Experience Japan Fare

CARRIER JAPAN EXPLORER PASS: JAPAN AIRLINES (JAL),

JAPAN TRANSOCEAN AIR (JTA), RYUKYU AIR

COMMUTER (RAC); EXPERIENCE JAPAN FARE: ALL

NIPPON AIRWAYS (ANA)

Restrictions

Both JAL and ANA groups have a competitive pass with similar conditions. The

passenger must provide evidence of an international ticket to & from Japan on any

international carrier. Route restrictions apply, though many popular routes are

available. Japan Explorer Pass tickets can be purchased online, even when you’re in

Japan, as they are issued by JAL’s ticket office in the US. For ANA’s offering, tickets

must be issued at least 72hr prior to departure.

Popular

Naha–Miyako-jima, Naha–Kumejima, Nagoya–Naha, Amami-Ōshima–Fukuoka

Routes

(JAL); Takamatsu–Naha, Hiroshima–Naha (ANA)

Price

Flight sectors ¥5400, ¥7560 and ¥10,800, route dependent.

Visit Japan Fare

CARRIER ALL NIPPON AIRWAYS (ANA)

Restrictions

A minimum of 2 flights (sectors) and a maximum of 5 can be purchased at the

discounted rate on any ANA route, by non-residents of Japan. Proof of inbound and

outbound carriage on any airline is required. Ticket must be issued outside Japan.

Routing restrictions do not apply.

Popular

Sapporo–Naha, Osaka (Itami)–Naha, Nagoya–Ishigaki

Routes

Price

¥13,000 per sector (minimum 2 sectors = from ¥26,000).

ENJOY Japan Fare

CARRIER SOLASEED AIR (SNJ)

Restrictions

Passenger must not reside in Japan & must hold an outbound international ticket on

any carrier.

Popular

Kagoshima–Naha, Tokyo (Haneda)–Miyako-jima

Routes

Price

Route specific & subject to availability; fares as low as ¥8900.

Boat

Ferries run from Osaka/Kōbe and Kagoshima to the Amami Islands and

Okinawa-hontō, and are plentiful between Kagoshima and Yakushima and

Tanegashima. Once you arrive in a port such as Naze on Amami-Ōshima or

Naha on Okinawa-hontō, there are local ferry services to nearby islands.

However, you cannot reach the Miyako Islands or Yaeyama Islands by ferry

from mainland Japan or Okinawa-hontō; it’s necessary to fly to these

destinations.

8 Getting Around

While regular ferry and hydrofoil services are the most common way to island-

hop, air travel is becoming a more popular and affordable way to get between

islands. Most inter-island services are operated by JTA/JAC – subsidiaries of

Japan Airlines – and to a lesser extent, ANA.

JTA offers the Okinawa Island Pass, an interisland air-pass that must be

purchased outside Japan and with proof of onward travel – sorry, expats. It

offers up to five inter-island flights (between Okinawa-hontō, Miyako-jima,

Ishigakijima and Kume-jima only), representing substantial savings from

standard domestic airfares purchased within Japan. Fares are route specific,

have limited availability and must be issued by a travel agency or Japan

Airlines branch office, outside Japan, at least 72 hours prior to departure.

While most islands have public bus systems, there are usually not more than

a few buses per day on each route. We recommend bringing an International

Driving Permit and renting a car or scooter, particularly on Ishigaki, Miyako,

Kume and Yakushima.

On Okinawa-hontō, driving in Naha can be a real drag, with horrible traffic

congestion and slow speed limits. If you’re only planning on exploring the city

itself, you’ll find local public transport – although not as widespread and user-

friendly as many other Japanese cities – is often the best option.

Renting a car is advised for exploration of the island beyond the city itself.

ŌSUMI ISLANDS 大隈諸島

The Ōsumi Islands (大隈諸島) comprise the two main islands of Yakushima

and Tanegashima and the seldom-visited triumvirate of islands known as

Mishima-mura. The all-star attraction in the group is World Heritage–protected

Yakushima, known in Japan as a ‘power-spot’ (パワースポット; pawā

supotto) for its ancient cedar trees. The island, most easily accessed from

Kagoshima city, is a paradise for hikers and nature lovers, enticing large

numbers of domestic and international visitors every year.

Neighbouring Tanegashima’s claim to fame is as the home of Japan’s space

program, but despite being a popular surfing destination for domestic surfers,

the island sees relatively few foreign travellers.

Yakushima 屋久島

%0997 / POP 13,178

If you’re a nature lover or an avid hiker, Yakushima (屋久島), designated a

Unesco World Heritage Site in 1993, is one of the most rewarding islands in

the Southwest Islands. The craggy mountain peaks of the island’s interior are

home to the worldfamous yakusugi (屋久杉; Cryptomeria japonica), ancient

cedar trees that are said to have been the inspiration for some of the scenes in

Miyazaki Hayao’s animation classic Princess Mononoke.

Keep in mind that Yakushima is a place of extremes: the mountains wring

every last drop of moisture from the passing clouds and the interior of the

island is one of the wettest places in Japan. In the winter the peaks may be

covered in snow, while the coast is still relatively balmy. Whatever you do,

come prepared and don’t set off on a hike without a good map and the proper

gear.

Yakushima

1 Top Sights

1 Jōmon-sugi

C2

1 Sights

2 Issō-kaisuiyokujō

B1

3 Nagata Inaka-hama

A2

4 Ōko-no-taki

A3

Umigame-kan

(see 3)

5 Yakusugi Museum

D3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

6 Arakawa-tozanguchi Hike

C3

7 Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen

B4

8 Miyanoura-dake Hike

B3

9 Onoaida Onsen

C4

10 Shiratani-unsuikyō-tozanguchi Hike

C2

11 Yakusugi Land

C3

12 Yodogawa-tozanguchi Hike

B3

13 Yudomari Onsen

B4

4 Sleeping

14 Lodge Yaedake-sansō

C2

15 Sankara Hotel & Spa

C4

Sōyōtei

(see 3)

16 Yakushima South Village

B4

5 Eating

17 Naa Yuu Cafe

B4

8 Transport

Arakawa Mountain Bus Stop

(see 5)

18 Kigen-sugi Bus Stop

C3

1 Sights

Yakushima’s main port is Miyanoura (宮之浦), on the island’s northeast coast.

This is the most convenient place to be based, as most buses originate from

here. From Miyanoura, a road runs around the perimeter of the island, passing

through the secondary port of Anbō (安房), on the east coast, and then through

the hot-springs town of Onoaida (尾之間) in the south. Heading north from

Miyanoura, the road takes you to the town of Nagata (永田), which has a

brilliant stretch of white-sand beach.

o Jōmon-sugi

LANDMARK

( MAP ; 縄文杉) F

This enormous yakusugi tree is estimated to be between 3000 and 7000 years

old, and though no longer living, it remains a majestic sight. Most hikers reach

the tree via the 19.5km, eight to 10-hour round trip from Arakawa-tozanguchi

(Arakawa trailhead; 荒川登山口).

Yakusugi Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 屋久杉自然館; %0997-46-3113; www.yakusugi-museum.com; 273 9343 Anbō; adult/child

¥600/400; h9am-5pm, closed 1st Tue of the month)

In a forested spot with sea views, the Yakusugi Museum has informative,

beautifully designed exhibits about yakusugi and the history of the islanders’

relationship to these magnificent trees. The museum offers an excellent audio

guide in English. It’s conveniently located on the road leading up to Yakusugi

Land. Two daily buses run to and from Miyanoura (¥960, 80 minutes, March to

November).

Ōko-no-taki

WATERFALL

( MAP ; 大川の滝)

On the west coast is Yakushima’s highest waterfall, at 88m. It’s a five-minute

walk from Ōko-no-taki bus stop, which is the last stop for some of the buses

running south and west from Miyanoura and Anbō (note that only two buses a

day run all the way out here).

Nagata Inaka-hama

BEACH

( MAP ; 永田いなか浜)

On the island’s northwest coast, Nagata Inaka-hama is a beautiful beach for

sunsets, and it’s where sea turtles lay their eggs from May to July. It’s beside

the Inaka-hama bus stop, served by Nagatabound buses from Miyanoura.

Umigame-kan

MUSEUM

( MAP ; うみがめ館; %0997-49-6550; 489-8 Nagata; ¥300; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon)

This nonprofit organisation has displays and information about turtles, mostly

in Japanese. During nesting (June and July) and hatching (August) seasons, it

arranges night tours on the beach. In order to protect the nesting turtles, eggs

and hatchlings, it is imperative that visitors go with a sanctioned tour.

2 Activities

Hiking

Hiking is the best way to experience Yakushima’s beauty. The most popular

hike is the long day trip up to Jōmon-sugi and back, but there are other

attractive alternatives. Yakusugi Land is designed for casual hikers.

Even though trails can be very crowded during holidays, be sure to alert

someone at your accommodation of your intended route and fill in a tōzan

todokede (route plan) at the trailhead.

With Yakushima being one of the wettest places on Earth, it rains a lot in the

island’s interior. Be sure to prepare adequately for hiking rainforests in which

you may find yourself slogging through torrential rain for a whole day.

Nakagawa Sports (ナカガワスポーツ; %0997-42-0341; www.yakushima-sp.com; 421-6

Miyanoura; h9am-7pm, closed every other Wed) in Miyanoura rents out everything from

rainwear and waterproof hiking boots (also in large sizes) to tents and baby

carriers.

o Shiratani-unsuikyō-tozanguchi Hike

HIKING

( MAP ; 白谷雲水峡登山口; ¥300)

Although the long day trek to Jōmon-sugi is the most famous in Yakushima,

the shorter Shiratani-unsuikyō hike is arguably more beautiful, passing

waterfalls, moss-lined rocks and towering yakusugi to the overlook at Taiko-

iwa. The trailhead (622m) is served by up to 10 daily buses to and from

Miyanoura (¥550, 40 minutes, March to November). Allow three or four hours

for this hike.

The ¥300 entrance fee goes towards trail maintenance and gets you a

walking map.

Yodogawa-tozanguchi Hike

HIKING

( MAP ; Yodogawa trailhead; 淀川登山口)

Trailhead (1370m) for summiting Miyanoura-dake, the highest point in

southern Japan. The trailhead is about 1.5km (about 30 minutes) beyond the

Kigen-sugi bus stop, served by two buses a day to/from Anbō (¥940, one hour).

Miyanoura-dake Hike

HIKING

MAP

The granddaddy of hikes here is the day-long outing to the 1935m summit of

Miyanouradake, the highest point in southern Japan. Fit climbers should allow

about seven hours return from Yodogawa-tozanguchi.

The Yodogawa trailhead is about 1.5km (about 30 minutes) beyond the

Kigensugi bus stop, served by two buses a day to/from Anbō (¥940, one

hour). The buses do not give you sufficient time to complete the round trip in a

day – an early-morning taxi from Miyanoura (around ¥11,000) gives you time

to make the second bus back to Anbō. Of course, renting a car gives you

maximum flexibility on timing your hike.

Yakusugi Land

HIKING

( MAP ; ヤクスギランド; %0997-42-3508; www.y-rekumori.com; 1593 Miyanoura; ¥300; h9am-5pm)

A great way to see some yakusugi without a long trek into the forest, Yakusugi

Land offers shorter hiking courses over wooden boardwalks, and longer hikes

deep into the ancient cedar forest. There are four buses a day to and from Anbō

(¥740, 40 minutes).

Onsen

Yakushima has several onsen, from beautifully desolate seaside pools to

upmarket hotel facilities. Seaside onsen here are typically konyoku (mixed

bathing) where swimsuits are not allowed; women traditionally wrap

themselves in a thin towel for modesty.

o Yudomari Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 湯泊温泉; 1714-28 Yudomari; ¥100; h24hr)

This blissfully serene onsen at the ocean’s edge can be entered at any tide. Get

off at the Yudomari bus stop and take the road opposite the post office in the

direction of the sea. Once you enter the village, the way is marked. It’s a 300m

walk and you pass a great banyan tree en route.

Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 平内海中温泉; %0997-43-5900; Hirauchi, Kumage; ¥100; h24hr)

Onsen lovers will be in heaven here. The outdoor baths are in the rocks by the

sea and can only be entered at or close to low tide. You can walk to the baths

from the Kaichū Onsen bus stop, but the next stop, Nishikaikon, is actually

closer. From Nishikaikon, walk downhill towards the sea for about 200m and

take a right at the bottom of the hill.

Onoaida Onsen

ONSEN

( MAP ; 尾之間温泉; %0997-47-2872; 1293 Onoaida; ¥200; h7am-9.30pm May-Oct, to 9pm Nov-

Apr, from noon Mon)

In the village of Onoaida, about 350m uphill from the Onoaida Onsen bus stop,

rub shoulders with the village elders at this rustic indoor bathhouse. BYO

everything and ease slowly into the divine, naturally hot water.

SEA TURTLES ON YAKUSHIMA

Loggerhead sea turtles and green sea turtles come ashore on the beaches of Yakushima to lay their

eggs. Unfortunately, human activity can significantly interfere with the egg-laying process. Thus

we recommend that you keep the following rules in mind when visiting the beaches of Yakushima

(particularly those on the northwest coast):

A Never approach a sea turtle that has come ashore.

A Do not start fires on the beach as the light will confuse the hatchlings (who use moonlight to

orient themselves). Likewise, do not shine torches (flashlights) or car headlights at or near the

beach.

A Do not walk on the beach at night.

A Be extremely careful when you walk on the beach, as you might inadvertently step on a newly

hatched turtle.

A If you want to observe the turtles, enquire at Umigame-kan.

4 Sleeping

The most convenient place to be based is Miyanoura. You’ll also find lodgings

in larger villages and several bare-bones yama-goya (mountain huts). In July,

August and the spring Golden Week holiday, it’s best to reserve ahead since

places fill up early.

Yakushima South Village

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; 屋久島サウスビレッジ; %0997-47-3751; www.yakushima-yh.net; 258-24 Hirauchi; dm/s/d from ¥3500/4500/6500; paiW)

This well-run youth hostel is about 3km west of Onoaida, nestled into the

forest. Accommodation is in either Japanese- or Westernstyle dorms, and the

shared kitchen and bathroom facilities are spotless. Get off any southbound

buses from Miyanoura at the Hirauchi-iriguchi bus stop and take the road

towards the sea for about 200m.

Yakushima Youth Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(屋久島ユースホステル; %0997-49-1316; www.yakushima-yh.net; 278-2 Miyanoura; dm/d

from ¥3800/4400; paiW)

This simple and clean youth hostel doesn’t offer meals, but there are several

good restaurants close by. It’s a 10-minute walk from Miyanoura port – turn

left off the main port road and veer left after passing the portside park; it’s

about 100m further. Its sister property, Yakushima South Village is predictably

on the south side.

o Sōyōtei

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP ; 送陽邸; %0997-45-2819; www.soyotei.net; 521-4 Nagata; r per person incl meals from

¥13,650; pa)

On the northwest coast near Nagata Inakahama, this gorgeous, family-run

guesthouse has a collection of semidetached units that boast private verandahs

and ocean views. The traditional structures feature rooftops unique to

Yakushima, with stones anchoring the roof tiles – you’ll recognise the place

immediately. There are several baths for private use, including an outdoor bath

overlooking the crashing waves.

Lovely seafood-focused meals are served in a communal, open-air dining

room that looks out over Inaka-hama and the sea.

Lodge Yaedake-sansō

LODGE

$$

( MAP ; ロッジ八重岳山荘; %0997-42-1551; www.yaedake.jp; Miyanoura; r per person incl

meals from ¥8100; pnaW)

This secluded accommodation features Japanese- and Western-style rooms in

rustic riverside cabins connected by wooden walkways. Soak up the beauty of

your surroundings in the communal baths; children will enjoy splashing in the

river. Meals served in the tatami dining room are balanced and exquisite. The

lodge is located inland on the Miyanoura-gawa; staff can pick you up in

Miyanoura.

The lodge also runs the Minshuku Yaedake Honkan (民宿八重岳本館;

%0997-42-2552; www.yaedake.jp/minshuku; 208 Miyanoura; r per person incl meals from ¥6800; pa) in town.

Sankara Hotel & Spa

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; %0997-47-3488, toll-free 0800-800-6007; www.sankarahotel-spa.com; 553 Haginoue, Mugio; r

per person incl breakfast from ¥39,000; paiWs) F

Overlooking Yakushima’s southeast coast, this stunning collection of luxury

villas blends ocean views with Balinese design elements. Sustainable practices

at Sankara include all water used on the property being sourced from mountain

run-off, and the restaurant utilising as much local and organic produce as

possible, much of which is grown expressly for the hotel. Guests 15 years and

older only.

5 Eating

There are a few restaurants in each of the island’s villages, with the best

selection in Miyanoura. If you’re staying anywhere but Miyanoura, request the

set two-meal plan at your lodgings. If you’re going hiking, you can ask your

lodging to prepare a bentō the night before you set out.

Naa Yuu Cafe

CAFE

$

( MAP ; なーゆーカフェ; %0997-49-3195; http://charu.air-nifty.com/naayuu/naa-yuu-cafe.html;

349-109 Hirauchi; lunch sets ¥850-1280; h11.30am-7pm Wed-Sun)

Down a dirt road and facing a field of wild reeds, this cute cafe feels vaguely

Hawaiian. The menu, however, leans more toward Thailand. Lunch sets range

from red curry to Kagoshima black-pork-sausage pizza, and the fresh,

homemade breads are dreamy. Look for a green sign in English, about 3km

west of Onoaida.

Yakuden

SUPERMARKET

$

(ヤクデン; %997-42-1501; 1197-1 Miyanoura; h9am-10pm)

Stock up on provisions for camping or hiking at this supermarket on the main

street in Miyanoura, just north of the entrance to the pier area.

Shiosai

SEAFOOD

$$

(潮騒; %0997-42-2721; 305-3 Miyanoura; dishes ¥450-1100; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Fri-Wed)

Find a full range of Japanese standards such as sashimi teishoku (sashimi set;

¥1700) or ebi-furai teishoku (fried shrimp set; ¥1400). Look for the blue and

whitish building with automatic glass doors along the main road through

Miyanoura.

8 Information

The best place to get money on Yakushima is at one of the island’s post offices,

the most convenient of which is Kamiyaku Post Office (上屋久郵便局; %0997-

42-0042; 126 Miyanoura; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) in Miyanoura.

Anbō Tourist Office (安房観光案内所; %0997-46-2333; www.yakukan.jp; 410-155 Anbō;

h9am-4pm) Just north of the river, this is full of helpful information.

Miyanoura Tourist Information Centre (宮之浦観光案内所; %0997-42-1019;

www.yakukan.jp; 823-1 Miyanoura; h9am-5pm) A helpful office on the road leading away

from the port; you can’t miss its dramatic architecture. Staff here can help you

find lodgings and answer all questions about the island.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Flights to Yakushima are expensive and the island is often excluded as a

potential routing on many low-cost air-passes.

Japan Air Commuter (JAC) has regular scheduled services between

Yakushima and Osaka, Fukuoka and Kagoshima.

Yakushima Airport (屋久島空港; %0997-42-1200) is on the northeastern coast

between Miyanoura and Anbō. Hourly buses stop at the airport, though you

may be able to arrange pick-up in advance from your accommodation.

BOAT

Hydrofoil services operate between Kagoshima and Yakushima, some of which

stop at Tanegashima en route. Tane Yaku Jetfoil (%in Kagoshima 099-226-0128, in

Miyanoura 0997-42-2003; www.tykousoku.jp; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun) runs six Toppy and Rocket hydrofoils per day between Kagoshima (leaving from the

high-speed ferry terminal just to the south of Minamifutō pier) and Miyanoura

(¥9000, one hour 50 minutes for direct sailings, two hours 40 minutes with a

stop in Tanegashima). There are also two hydrofoils per day between

Kagoshima and Anbō Port (2½ hours) on Yakushima. Booking ahead is wise.

The regular ferry Yakushima 2 (屋久島２フェリー; %099-266-0731;

www.ferryyakusima2.com/index.html) sails from Kagoshima’s Minamifutō pier for Yakushima’s Miyanoura port (one way/return ¥4900/8900). It leaves at 8.30am

and takes four hours.

The Hibiscus (フェリーはいびすかす; %099-261-7000; www.yakushimaferry.com)

also sails between Kagoshima and Yakushima, leaving at 6pm, stopping

overnight in Tanegashima, and arriving at Miyanoura at 7am the following day.

Fares vary by routing. Reservations aren’t usually necessary for this ferry,

which usually departs from Kagoshima’s Taniyama pier.

Local buses travel the coastal road part way around Yakushima roughly

every hour or two, though only a few head up into the interior. Your best bet is

to rent a car from the port.

8 Getting Around

Local buses travel the coastal road part way around Yakushima roughly every

hour or two, though only a few head up into the interior.

You’ll save a lot of money by purchasing a Yakushima Kotsu Free Pass,

which is good for unlimited travel on Yakushima Kotsu buses. One-/two-day

passes cost ¥2000/3000 and are available at the airport, the Anbō port and the

tourist information centre in Miyanoura.

Hikers should note that from March through November, in order to limit

traffic congestion and environmental impact, all hikers must transfer to an

Arakawa Mountain Bus (round trip ¥1740) from the Yakusugi Museum parking

lot to get to the Arakawa-tozanguchi. You must buy a ticket at least a day in

advance; also note that this fare is not covered by the one- or two-day bus

passes.

Hitching is also possible, but an International Driving Permit will vastly

increase your enjoyment here, as buses are few and far between. Toyota Rent-

a-Car (トヨタレンタカー; %0997-42-2000; https://rent.toyota.co.jp; h8am-8pm) is north of the port in Miyanoura.

Tanegashima 種子島

%0997 / POP 33,000

A long, narrow island about 20km northeast of Yakushima, Tanegashima (種子

島) is a laid-back destination popular with Japanese surfers and beach lovers.

Home to Japan’s Space Centre, Tanegashima was where firearms were first

introduced to Japan by shipwrecked Portuguese in 1543. Although good ferry

connections make this island easy to pair with a trip to Yakushima, it’s often

overlooked by time-poor visitors making a beeline for the ‘main event’.

The island’s main port of Nishi-no-Omote (西之表) is on the northwest

coast of the island, while the airport is about halfway down the island near the

west coast. The best beaches and most of the surf breaks are on the east coast

of the island, which is also home to an onsen.

1 Sights

o Space Science & Technology Museum

MUSEUM

(宇宙科学技術館; %0997-26-9244; http://fanfun.jaxa.jp/visit/tanegashima; Kukinaga, Minamitane-

chō; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, closed on launch days) F

Reopened in 2017 after an extensive re-design, Tanegashima’s Space Centre,

on the spectacular southeastern coast of the island, is a large parklike complex

with rocket-launch facilities. Its Space Science & Technology Museum details

the history of Japan’s space program, with models of Japan’s rockets and some

of the satellites it has launched (with some English interpretive signage).

Buses running from Nishi-no-Omote all the way to Tanegashima Space

Centre take two hours.

Takezaki-kaigan

BEACH

(竹崎海岸)

Nearby to the Space Centre, this coastline is home to a beautiful stretch of

white sand popular with surfers. The best spot to enjoy it is the beach in front

of the Iwasaki Hotel (closest bus stop: Iwasaki Hotel), which has some

impressive rock formations.

Nagahama-kaigan

BEACH

(長浜海岸)

The west coast of Tanegashima is home to a 12km stretch of beach known as

the Nagahama -kaigan (coastline) that is equally popular with diehard surfers

and egg-laying sea turtles.

2 Activities

Akaogi-no-Yu

ONSEN

(赤尾木の湯; %0997-22-1555; www.araki-hotel.co.jp; 78 Nishimachi, Nishi-no-Omote; ¥1000;

h6am-11pm)

Just a five-minute walk from the Nishi-no-Omote port, this sparkling new

onsen offers a soothing end to a day of surfing or sunning – BYO towel. Or

simply soak your feet in the free foot bath before or after a ferry ride.

Nakatane-chō Onsen Center

ONSEN

(中種子町温泉保養センター; %0997-27-9211; 5542 Sakai, Nakatane; ¥300; h11am-8pm Fri-

Wed)

Bring your own bathing supplies to this ocean-view hot spring at Kumano-

kaigan. Floor-to-ceiling one-way glass allows you to soak while enjoying the

views of rock formations offshore. The closest bus stop is Kumano-

kaisuiyokujō; if driving, follow the signs to Kumano Onsen.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Most travellers base themselves in the port town of Nishi-no-Omote. If you’re

staying outside of the town, it’s a good idea to book meals with your

accommodation.

o Miharu-sō

RYOKAN

$

(美春荘; %0997-22-1393; www.miharuso.jp; 7486-6 Nishi-no-Omote; r per person incl breakfast

¥5500; pnaW)

Tidy Japanese-style rooms in this family-run ryokan in Nishi-no-Omote are

homely and full of natural light. If you speak Japanese, you can hit up the

owner for local info on surf spots. If not, he’s likely to point you in the right

direction anyway.

Hotel Lexton

HOTEL

$$

(ホテル・レクストン種子島; %0997-22-2000; www.nisikawa.net/lex-tane; 16069 Nishi-no-

Omote; s/d from ¥6200/8200)

Tanegashima’s newest and smartest digs belong to this glorified business hotel,

with dark-woody rooms, the latest tech and a convenient location not far from

the port.

East Coast

BUNGALOW

$$

(イーストコースト; %0997-25-0763; www.eastcoast.jp; 140-2 Anjō; s/d/tr from

¥2700/5400/8100, large cabin ¥12,960; p)

With two homely, fully equipped bungalows near the local break, this place is

(as you might guess) on the east coast of Tanegashima. Reservations are

essential. The owner is an English-speaking Japanese surfer who also runs a

great on-site cafe serving simple favourites like curry and fried shrimp with

rice (open from 11am to 6pm, Thursday to Tuesday).

You’ll need your own wheels to get to the coast as it’s quite a way from

town.

Koryōri Shirō

IZAKAYA

$$

(小料理しろう; %0997-23-2117; 24-6 Higashichō; dishes ¥400-1100; h5-11pm; a)

Head to this friendly little izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) in Nishi-no-Omote to

sample tasty dishes such as the sashimi teishoku (sashimi set; ¥1200). There

are plants out the front and blue-and-white noren (doorway curtains). It’s along

the main road east of the post office.

8 Information

The road from the Nishi-no-Omote pier dead-ends at the post office (種子島郵

便局; 61-1 Nishimachi; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri), which houses an international ATM.

Tanegashima Tourist Information Office (種子島観光案内所; %0997-23-0111;

h9am-5pm) This helpful office is located at the pier in Nishi-no-Omote, inside the

ferry office/waiting room.

8 Getting There & Away

Six flights to and from Kagoshima (about 30 minutes) on Japan Air Commuter

(JAC) land at the airport (種子島空港).

Depending on the season, Tane Yaku Jetfoil runs at least five daily high-

speed ferries (¥7100, 1½ hours) between Kagoshima and Tanegashima.

Yakushima Ferry operates the Ferry Hibiscus service each evening between

Kagoshima and Tanegashima (¥3700, three hours and 40 minutes).

8 Getting Around

Unfortunately, the relative lack of buses makes it difficult to enjoy this island

without a rental car or scooter, or, at least, a good touring bicycle.

There’s a rental-car counter in the arrivals hall of the airport, and a couple of

rental agencies outside Nishi-no-Omote port.

THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS IN…

Two Days

A Spend one day exploring Naha and the next beach-lounging and snorkelling on Aka-jima or

Zamami-jima.

A Alternatively, fly directly to Miyako-jima and rent a car to explore the beaches of these bridge-

linked islands.

Four Days

A Enjoy epic hikes and seaside onsen on Yakushima, then ferry over to Tanegashima for surfing and

beach time.

A Bookend two days in the Yaeyama Islands with a day exploring Ishigaki-jima and a day cycling

around Taketomi-jima.

One Week

A Spend a day or two on Okinawa-hontō then take your pick, splitting your time between the

Amami Islands and the Yaeyama or Miyako Islands, spending two to three days on each.

AMAMI ISLANDS 奄美諸島

The Amami archipelago (奄美諸島) comprises Kagoshima Prefecture’s

southernmost islands and boasts excellent beaches and subtropical forests. The

main gateway and transport hub, Amami-Ōshima, has seen a surge in

popularity in recent years, due to new airline routes, improved ferry

connections and tourism infrastructure. The latter includes a handful of fresh,

appealing accommodation offerings for the discerning traveller.

Furthest south, tiny Yoron-tō – within sight of Okinawa-hontō – is an

important hub for inter-island transport and for the preservation of local

language and culture.

Amami-Ōshima 奄美大島

%0997 / POP 73,000

Amami-Ōshima (奄美大島), Japan’s thirdlargest offshore island after

Okinawa-hontō and Sado-ga-shima, is enjoying a rise in visitor numbers due to

improved access and tourism infrastructure. With a mild subtropical climate

year-round, the island is home to some unusual flora and fauna, including the

endemic Amami black rabbit, tree ferns and mangroves. The coastline of the

island is incredibly convoluted – a succession of bays, points and inlets,

punctuated by the occasional white-sand beach – and ascends into dense forest,

making the island a more complex, interesting alternative to islands further

south.

Amami-Ōshima

1 Sights

1 Amami-no-Sato

D2

2 Ōhama Seaside Park

C2

3 Sakibaru Beach

D1

4 Tomori-kaigan

D1

4 Sleeping

5 Denpaku Hotel Akagina

D1

6 Holly Camp

D1

7 Native Sea Amami

D2

Nest at Amami

(see 7)

8 Pension Green Hill

D2

8 Transport

9 A Line Ferry

C2

10 Amami Airport

D2

Marix Line

(see 9)

Nazeshinko Ferry Terminal

(see 9)

Times Car Rental

(see 10)

1 Sights

Amami-Ōshima’s main city and port on the north coast is known by locals as

both Amami-shi (奄美市) and Naze (名瀬), and it’s from here that you’ll set

off to explore the island by touring bike or rental car. The coastal route to Uken

(宇検) on the west coast has some lovely stretches. Another option is Rte 58

south to Koniya (古仁屋), from where you can continue southeast to the

Honohoshi-kaigan (ホノホシ海岸), a rocky beach with incredible coastal

formations, or catch a ferry to Kakeroma-jima (加計呂麻島), a small island

with a few shallow beaches; the best beaches are at the northeast end.

Ōhama Seaside Park

PARK

( MAP ; 大浜海浜公園, Ōhama-kaihin-kōen; www.michinoshima.jp; 701-1 Nagase Kojuku Ōhama) With forest rolling down to white sand and turquoise water, the Ōhama Seaside

Park complex is best known for its lovely beach, which is popular for

swimming, snorkelling, sea kayaking and fishing. As it’s the closest beach to

Naze, it can get crowded during the summer, but it’s convenient and spacious.

Take an Ōhama-bound bus from Naze and get off at the Ōhama stop (¥400).

Sakibaru Beach

BEACH

( MAP ; 崎原ビーチ; %0997-63-0828; 3622 Ōaza Kise, Kasari-chō)

This stunner of a beach lies about 4.5km up a point of land just north of Kise

(about 20km northeast of Naze). Take a Sani-bound bus from Naze and get off

at Kiseura (¥950), and then walk. If you’re driving, it’s marked in English off

the main road (be prepared for narrow roads).

Tomori-kaigan

BEACH

( MAP ; 土盛海岸; %0997-52-1111; Tomori, Kasari-chō)

It’s easy to get to this beach, which offers brilliant white sand and some great

snorkelling with a channel leading outside the reef. It’s about 3km north of the

airport. Take a Sani-bound bus from Naze and get off at Tomori (¥1210).

Amami-no-Sato

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 奄美の郷; %0997-55-2333; www.amamipark.com; 1834 Setta, Kasari-chō; ¥620; h9am-6pm, to 7pm Jul & Aug, closed 1st & 3rd Wed of the month)

Though most displays are in Japanese, there’s enough multimedia here to make

this cultural and natural-history museum engaging, even for non-Japanese

speakers. Musical exhibits, short films documenting island customs, colourful

dioramas and an art museum showcasing the work of Tanaka Isson, famed for

his paintings of local flora and bird life, bring Amami traditions to life.

4 Sleeping

Golden Mile Hostel

HOSTEL

$

(%0997-58-8366; www.goldenmilehostel.com; 2-6 Naze Sawai-chō; dm/d from ¥2100/6000; aW) There’s a great vibe surrounding this hostel near the ferry terminal, which has

excellent dorm and private rooms and a funky bar attracting a friendly crowd.

The hostel is located in an old building that has been given a new lease of life

with some smart design choices made by young, forward-thinking minds.

Native Sea Amami

HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; ネイティブシー奄美; %0997-62-2385; www.native-sea.com; 835 Ashitoku, Tatusgō-chō; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥12,500; paiW)

This dive centre/resort has comfortable wood-floored Western-style

accommodation perched on a promontory over a lovely bay. Guestrooms have

gorgeous, sweeping views of the bay and access to a nice, shallow beach

below. For a more romantic stay, opt for one of the spacious beachfront rooms

at the annexe, the Petit Resort (プチリソート), about 100m down the road.

Native Sea is about 28km east of Naze (or 3km from the Akaogi bus stop).

Pension Green Hill

GUESTHOUSE

$$

( MAP ; ペンショングリーンヒル; %0997-62-5180; www.greenhill-amami.com; 1728-2

Akaogi, Tatsugō-chō; s/d incl 2 meals ¥9720/17,280; paiW)

A favourite among Japanese surfers, convivial Green Hill has ocean views

(including the local surf spot, Tebiro Point) and Japanese- and Western-style

rooms, some with lofts. It’s about 30 minutes from the airport and a few

minutes’ walk to the beach. If you ask nicely, you can arrange pick-up in

advance.

o Nest at Amami

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; ネストアット奄美; %0997-55-4066; www.nestatamami.com; 800 Ashitoku; villas d per

person from ¥19,000)

While tightly knitted together, these stunning, architect-designed, fully

selfcontained waterfront villas retain a sense of privacy and rate among the

most noteworthy accommodations in the Southwest Islands for the discerning

romantic. They include three dreamy luxury pool villas. Tempted? Check the

homepage for more details. A fancy on-site restaurant completes the picture.

Priced accordingly.

Denpaku Hotel Akagina

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; 伝泊ホテル赤木名; %0997-63-1910; www.den-

paku.com/amami/distinations/hotel_akakina; 50-2 Ōaza-sato, Akagina; s/d from ¥8100/17,280; pnaW) This smart, architecturally designed modern hotel has a proud traditional

appeal. Located not far from the airport, it makes a great base for short stays. If

you plan to stay a little longer, the Denpaku group (www.den-paku.com) have a

bunch of wonderful, rustic houses for rent, scattered about the island. Check

the website for details.

Holly Camp

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; %090-7167-1970; www.livholly.com; 815 Ōaza Sotoganeku, Kazari-chō; s/d ¥22,000/25,000;

pW)

While it’s almost too cool for school, this classy collection of converted

Airstream campers will undoubtedly elicit more smiles and sighs of delight

than disappointment. Lovingly restored vans feature all the mod-cons you’d

expect of such a glampy facility, located in a delightful waterfront spot on the

island’s northern cape.

DON’T MISS

BEST BEACHES

A Sunset Beach, Ishigaki-jima

A Sunayama Beach, Miyako-jima

A Nishibama Beach, Aka-jima

A Furuzamami Beach, Zamami-jima

5 Eating

Okonomiyaki Mangetsu

OKONOMIYAKI

$

(お好み焼き満月; %0997-53-2052; https://omangetsu.com/shop-naze; 2-2 Nazeirifune-chō; dishes

¥840-1380; hnoon-2am)

Locals pile in for the excellent okonomiyaki (batter and cabbage cakes cooked

on a griddle) at this excellent Naze eatery. For carnivores, we recommend the

kurobuta mix (pork, shrimp and squid mix; ¥1260), and for vegetarians, the

isobecchi ( mochi rice and nori; ¥750). There’s a picture menu.

Hokorashi-ya

IZAKAYA

$$

(誇羅司屋; %0997-52-1158; www.hokorashiyaamami.com/menu; 13-6 Nazeirifune-chō; set meals

¥2000-3500; h5.30pm-midnight)

An atmospheric izakaya in downtown Naze, Hokorashi-ya dishes up toothsome

Amami specialities such as aosa-no-tempura (fish-and-shellfish cakes fried in

a freshwater seaweed batter; ¥600) and a regional chāhan (fried rice flecked

with bonito and egg; ¥800), as well as beautifully plated sushi and sashimi

specials. There’s a picture menu.

8 Information

Amami-Ōshima Tourist Information Office (奄美大島観光案内所; %0997-53-

3240; www.amami-tourism.org; 14-10 Suehiro, AiAi Hiroba 1F; h9am-6pm) Helpful office is located in Naze. There’s also a smaller information desk at the airport.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Amami Airport ( MAP ; 奄美空港; Amami Kūkō) has direct flights to/from Tokyo,

Osaka, Fukuoka and Kagoshima with Japan Airlines (JAL) or JAC.

Ryukyu Air Commuter (RAC) operates a daily flight between Naha and

Amami-Ōshima. There are also flights between Amami-Ōshima and the other

islands in the Amami group.

BOAT

Travelling by sea, Marix (マリックスライン; %Amami office 0997-53-3112, Kagoshima

office 099-225-1551; www.marix-line.co.jp; 2281 Naze Shiohama-cho) and A Line (%Amami office 099-222-2338, Kagoshima office 099-226-4141; www.aline-ferry.com; 8-21 Naze Iroifune-chō, 1F

Yūson Bldg) run their own ferries along the same routes for the same rates, but on

alternating days, from the Nazeshinko Ferry Terminal ( MAP ; 名瀬新港フェ

リーターミナル). If you find that one does not offer a route on the day you

wish to travel, simply book with the other company.

Marix and A Line run four or five ferries a month from Osaka/Kōbe

(¥15,120, 29 hours), as well as daily ferries to and from Kagoshima (¥9050, 11

hours) and Naha (¥9570, 13 hours).

8 Getting Around

Amami-Ōshima has a good bus system, but you will definitely appreciate a

rental car if you have an International Driving Permit. Times Car Rental ( MAP

; タイムズレンタカ−; %0997-63-0240; 467 Kasari-chō; h8am-7pm) has subcompacts

from ¥5500, with a branch in Naze and another across from the airport.

The island’s tiny airport is on the northeast end of the island; 55 minutes

from Naze by bus (¥1100, almost hourly) with buses timed to meet flights.

Yoron-tō 与論島

%0997 / POP 5263

Fringed with white, star-sand-speckled beaches and extensive coral reefs,

Yoron-tō (与論島) is one of the most appealing islands in the Southwest

Islands chain. A mere 5km across, it is the southernmost island in Kagoshima

Prefecture. On a good day, Okinawahontō’s northernmost point of Hedo-misaki

is visible 23km to the southwest.

Lovely beaches border the island, with the best dive spots clustered off the

northwest and southwest coasts.

The harbour is next to the airport on the western tip of the island, while the

main town of Chabana (茶花) is 1km to the east.

1 Sights

o Yoron Minzoku-mura

MUSEUM

(与論民族村; %0997-97-2934; www.minzokumura.jp; 693 Higashi-ku; adult/child ¥400/200; h9am-6pm)

At the island’s southeastern tip, the excellent Yoron Minzoku-mura is a

collection of traditional thatch-roofed island dwellings and storehouses that

contain exhibits on the island’s culture and history. If at all possible, come with

a Japanese speaker, as the owner is an incredible source of information on the

island’s heritage and dialect.

Oganeku-kaigan

BEACH

(大金久海岸; Furusato)

The popular Oganekukaigan is Yoron-tō’s best beach, located on the eastern

side of the island. About 500m offshore from here lies Yurigahama (百合ヶ

浜), a stunning stretch of white sand that disappears completely at high tide and

is rich with star sand, where each microscopic granule is in the form of star.

Boats (¥2000 return) ferry visitors between the two beaches.

Terasaki-kaigan

BEACH

(寺崎海岸; Nama)

On the northeast coast, Terasaki-kaigan represents the archetypical Amami

beach, with its white sand, rocky outcrops and aquamarine water.

4 Sleeping

Shiomi-sō

MINSHUKU

$

(汐見荘; %0997-97-2167; 2229-3 Chabana; r per person without bathroom incl 2 meals ¥6470; pai)

This friendly and casual minshuku is popular with young people. Both

Western- and Japanese-style rooms are available, and all share bathrooms.

Starting from Chabana harbour, take the main road north (uphill) out of town

and look for the cute little white house on the left after the turn. Staff will pick

you up if you phone ahead.

o Pricia Resort

HOTEL

$$$

(プリシアリゾート; %0997-97-5060; www.pricia.co.jp; 358-1 Ricchō; r per person incl breakfast

from ¥12,800; paiWs)

These relaxing whitewashed cottages by the airport evoke Yoron-tō’s sister

island, Mykonos, in Greece. The best cottages are the beachside ‘B type’ units.

Breezy Western-style rooms and Jacuzzi baths are popular with Japanese divers

and holidaying US service members from Okinawa. The hotel offers an entire

menu of activities, including windsurfing, snorkelling and banana-boat rides. It

also rents out bicycles and cars.

5 Eating & Drinking

Umi Café

CAFE

$

(海カフェ; %0997-97-4621; 2309 Chabana; light meals ¥650-900; h11am-6pm Sun-Wed & Fri, 1-

6pm Sat, closed Thu)

This delightful terraced gallery-cafe with ocean views is something you’d

expect to find perched on a Greek cliff; it’s no surprise to find chicken gyros

(¥700) on the menu. Go to the village office at the top of the main drag, turn

left and then right at the end of the street. Look for small signs pointing uphill.

The owner also runs a small hostel (dorm beds ¥1500).

Bar Natural Reef

BAR

(ナチュラルリーフ; %0997-97-3661; 16-1 Chabana; h9pm-1am)

This tiki bar on Chabana’s main drag is the best watering hole on the island,

with plenty of yū sen, a local shōchū (strong distilled alcohol) made from sugar

cane, to keep everyone happy. Owner Kowaguchi-san has lots of tips about the

best spots on Yoron-tō.

8 Information

At the post office (%0997-97-2042; 68-6 Chabana; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat & Sun) in

Chabana there is an international ATM.

Yoron-tō Tourism Association (ヨロン島観光協会; %0997-97-5151;

www.yorontou.info; 32-1 Chabana; h8.30am-5.30pm) This friendly place beside the city office in Chabana provides a basic English-language map of the island and can

make accommodation bookings.

8 Getting There & Away

Yoron Airport (与論空港; Yoron-kūkō) has direct flights to/from Kagoshima,

Amami-Ōshima (JAC) and Naha (RAC).

Yoron’s port (与論港) is served by Marix and A Line Ferry, which run

between Kagoshima (some originating in Honshū) and Naha.

8 Getting Around

Yoron-tō has a bus system, but you’ll definitely appreciate the convenience of a

car, scooter or touring bicycle. Yoron Rentacar (ヨロンレンタカー; %0997-97-

3633; 48-7 Chabana; h8am-6pm), in Chabana, will meet car- or scooterrental clients at

the airport, and may even offer you an energy drink when sending you on your

way. If you don’t opt for a pick-up, find Yoron Rentacar on the road just east of

the post office, off Chabana’s main drag.

DON’T MISS

DIVING IN THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS

The Southwest Islands are stunning above the surface and just as appealing below, where whales

sharks, turtles, corals and wrecks offer great opportunities for diving.

Our top spots:

Yonaguni-jima

Kerama Islands

Ishigaki-jima

Iriomote-jima

OKINAWA-HONTŌ

%098

Depending on the suffix used, Okinawa (沖縄) can refer to the prefecture (-

ken, 県), its enclosing archipelago (-rettō, 列島), the main island (-hontō, 本

島) or the eponymous city on the main island (-shi, 市); but when most visitors

say they’re ‘going to Okinawa’, they mean they’re visiting the Southwest

Islands.

Formerly the seat of power of the Ryūkyū dynasty, Okinawa-hontō is the

largest island in the Nansei-shotō (Southwest Islands) and its capital, Naha, the

busiest city. If Tōkyō were a pie, and you cut a tiny slice, dropped it on an

island in the Pacific, and served it with a dollop of Florida, Naha might be what

you’d get. Most visible traces of Ryukyū culture were obliterated in WWII, and

there remains a huge US military presence on the island.

In spite of this, the Ryūkyū lineage remains strong and is evident in

Okinawa’s unique culinary, artistic and musical traditions.

8 Getting There & Away

Naha is Okinawa’s transport hub, with international flights to and from Hong

Kong, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore and Taipei, as well as domestic flights

connecting to major cities in Japan, including Tokyo and Osaka.

Naha is also the maritime hub for jetfoils to the Kerama Islands, and long-

distance ferries to Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama Islands.

Naha 那覇

%098 / POP 321,467

Flattened during WWII, the prefectural capital of Naha (那覇) is now a

thriving urban centre that looks like most other tidy, small-to-medium Japanese

cities, except for the frequent splashes of leafy green, rows of palm trees, or

glimpses of azure waters from between the modern high-rises, which make up

Naha’s rapidly expanding skyline.

The city plays host to an interesting mix of young Japanese holidaymakers,

American GIs looking for off-base fun and a growing number of foreign

tourists. The action centres on Kokusai-dōri (International Blvd), and

overlooking it all from a safe distance to the east is Shuri-jō, a wonderfully

restored castle that was once the home of Ryūkyū royalty.

Thankfully, Naha’s unique elevated monorail, the Yui Rail, makes getting

around a breeze, because driving here can be quite the nightmare: despite its

size, Naha’s traffic jams make for slow going.

Naha

1 Top Sights

1 Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba

E3

2 Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum

F1

3 Tsuboya Pottery Street

F4

1 Sights

4 Tsuboya Pottery Museum

E4

4 Sleeping

5 Hotel Estinate

D2

6 Hotel JAL City Naha

D3

7 Hotel Pesquera

C2

8 Minshuku Gettō

D4

5 Eating

9 Ryūkyū Ryōri Nuchigafū

F4

10 Shanghai Wantan Rō

C2

11 Ukishima Garden

E4

12 Yūnangi

D3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

13 Helios Pub

D3

14 Rehab

E3

7 Shopping

15 San-A Naha Main Place

F1

1 Sights

Naha is fairly easy to navigate, especially since the main sights and attractions

are located in the city centre. The city’s main artery is Kokusai-dōri (国際通

り), a riot of neon, noise, souvenir shops, bustling restaurants and Japanese

young things out strutting their stuff. It’s a festival of tat and tackiness, but it’s

good fun if you’re in the mood for it.

Many people prefer the atmosphere of the three covered shopping arcades

that run south off Kokusai-dōri: Ichibahon-dōri (市場本道り),

Mutsumibashi-dōri (むつみ橋通り) and Heiwa-dōri (平和通り).

The Shuri district is about 3km to the east of the city centre.

o Shuri-jō

CASTLE

(首里城; %098-886-2020; www.oki-park.jp; 1-2 Kinjō-chō, Shuri; ¥820, with 1- or 2-day monorail pass discounted to ¥660; h8.30am-7pm Apr-Jun & Oct-Nov, to 8pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm Dec-Mar, closed 1st

Wed & Thu Jul)

This reconstructed castle was originally built in the 14th century and served as

the administrative centre and royal residence of the Ryūkyū kingdom until the

19th century. Enter through the Kankai-mon (歓会門) and go up to the

Hōshin-mon (奉神門), which forms the entryway to the inner sanctum of the

castle. Visitors can enter the impressive Seiden (正殿), which has exhibits on

the castle and the Okinawan royals.

About 200m west of the Seiden, the observation terrace Iri-no-Azana (西の

アザナ) affords great views over Naha and the Kerama Islands. There is also a

small collection of displays in the nearby Hokuden (北殿).

To reach the complex, which sits atop a hill overlooking Naha’s urban

sprawl, take the Yui Rail to Shuri Station. Exit to the west, go down the steps,

walk straight ahead, cross one big street, then a smaller one and go right on the

opposite side. From there, walk about 350m and look for the signs on the left.

o Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 沖縄県立博物館・美術館; %098-941-8200;

www.museums.pref.okinawa.jp; Omoromachi 3-1-1; prefectural/art museum ¥410/310; h9am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 8pm Fri & Sat)

Opened in 2007, this museum of Okinawa’s history, culture and natural history

is easily one of the best museums in Japan. Displays are well laid out,

attractively presented and easy to understand, with excellent bilingual

interpretive signage. The art-museum section holds interesting special exhibits

(admission prices vary) with an emphasis on local artists. It’s about 15

minutes’ walk northwest of the Omoromachi monorail station.

o Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba

MARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 第一牧志公設市場; 2-10-1 Matsuo; h8am-8pm, restaurants 10am-7pm) In Naha, a great place to sample everyday Okinawan eats is at one of the 2nd-floor eateries in this covered food market just off Ichibahon-dōri, about 200m

south of Kokusai-dōri. The colourful variety of fish and produce on offer here

is amazing. Don’t miss the wonderful local restaurants upstairs.

o Tsuboya Pottery Street

AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 壷屋やちむん道り; Tsuboya Yachimun-dōri) One of the best parts of Naha is this neighbourhood, a centre of ceramic

production from 1682, when Ryūkyū kilns were consolidated here by royal

decree. Most shops along this old-timey street sell all the popular Okinawan

ceramics, including shiisā (lion-dog roof guardians) and containers for serving

awamori (Okinawan liquor distilled from rice), the local firewater. The lanes

off the main street here contain some classic crumbling old Okinawan houses.

To get here from Kokusai-dōri, walk south through the entirety of Heiwa-dōri

arcade (about 350m).

OKINAWA ICON: SHIISĀ LION DOG

As you wander the streets of Naha, you’ll notice these curious Chinese dragon-like stone statues,

often painted red, ferociously guarding the entrances to homes and businesses. Known as Shiisā

(guardian lion-dogs), the statues embody elements of both Chinese and Ryūkyūan cultures.

Somewhat a symbol of Okinawan resilience, they’re often seen in pairs, one with an open mouth

swallowing good fortune for the house and the other, whose mouth is firmly shut, ensuring it won’t

escape. Together they symbolise strength and protection.

Tsuboya Pottery Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 壺屋焼物博物館; %098-862-3761; www.edu.city.naha.okinawa.jp/tsuboya; 1-9-32 Tsuboya; adult/concession ¥350/280; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

The excellent Tsuboya Pottery Museum houses some fine examples of

traditional Okinawan pottery. Here you can also inspect potters’ wheels and

arayachi (unglazed) and jōyachi (glazed) pieces. There’s even a cross-section

of a noborigama (kiln built on a slope) set in its original location, where

crushed pieces of pottery that date back to the 17th century lie suspended in

earth.

Shikina-en

GARDENS

(識名園; %098-855-5936; 421-7 Aza Māji; ¥400; h9am-6pm Thu-Tue Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar)

Around 4km east of the city centre is a Chinese-style garden containing stone

bridges, a viewing pavilion and a villa that belonged to the Ryūkyū royal

family. Despite its flawless appearance, everything here was painstakingly

rebuilt after WWII. To reach the garden, take bus 2, 3 or 5 to the Shikinaenmae

stop (¥230, 20 minutes).

AMERICAN BASES IN OKINAWA

The US officially returned Okinawa to Japanese administration in 1972, but it negotiated a Status

of Forces Agreement that guaranteed the Americans the right to use large tracts of Okinawan land

for military bases, most of which are on Okinawa-hontō. These bases are home to some 30,000

American service members.

Although the bases have supported Okinawa’s economic growth in the past, they now contribute

only about 5% to the Okinawan GDP. The bases are a sore point for islanders due in part to

occasional crimes committed by American servicemen. Antibase feelings peaked in 1995, after

three American servicemen abducted and raped a 12-year-old Okinawan girl. Similar incidents in

recent years have perpetuated animosity, including the death of a 20-year-old Okinawan woman in

2016 – a former Marine working at a US base has been charged with her rape and murder.

Plans to relocate the base from Futenma to the less densely populated Henoko district were

officially approved by both the US and Japan in 1996, but have continually met with vocal

opposition from Okinawan residents, the majority of whom would like to see the US military

presence take leave of the island entirely.

In April 2010, 90,000 protesters gathered to call for an end to the bases, the biggest such

demonstration in 15 years. That year, then prime minister Hatoyama Yukio fell on his sword after

breaking a promise to move Futenma air base off the island; he finally admitted it would stay.

Though the USA formally agreed in early 2012 to move 9000 Marines (amounting to around

half of the Marines on Okinawa) to bases on Guam, Hawaii and elsewhere in the Pacific, this plan

will not begin manifesting until the mid-2020s.

As of December 2016 Okinawa’s previous governor, Onaga Takeshi, was battling the Japanese

government in court over his revocation of a landfill permit issued by his predecessor – this delay

in construction represents Okinawan residents’ wishes to see a significant reduction in the US

military presence on the island.

During the same month, the US returned 4000 hectares of land to Okinawa – a move that, on the

surface, appears to be a positive development. However, the return of land was made on the

condition that helipad construction for controversial Osprey aircraft be completed. Many

Okinawans oppose the presence of Osprey aircraft flying near residential areas, as the aircraft have

had a string of accidents over the last several years, including a crash-landing in Nago as recently

as mid-December 2016.

Following Governor Onaga’s death in 2018, current governor Denny Tamaki was appointed, and

is also an opponent of military presence in the islands.

The saga continues.

2 Activities

Ryūkyū Onsen Ryūjin-no-yu

ONSEN

(琉球温泉龍神の湯; %098-851-7077; www.hotelwbf.com/senaga; 174-5 Senaga, Tomigusuku;

¥720)

Near the airport, on tiny reclaimed, land-linked Senaga island, you’ll find what

could be one of Naha’s most tempting attractions, with its selection of sea-view

hot-spring pools and fabulous location with views out over the airstrip and the

East China Sea. Words of warning: it’s at times overwhelmingly popular, and

its door policy refuses entry to persons with even the smallest tattoos. Entrance

to the onsen is to the right of the hotel lobby.

Reef Encounters

DIVING

( MAP ; %098-995-9414, 090-1940-3528; www.reefencounters.org; 1-493 Miyagi, Chatan-chō; 2-dive

boat trips from ¥14,040, equipment rental ¥5000)

The experienced, safety-oriented dive guides at this organised outfit – based in

Chatan, 15km north of Naha – can, between the lot of them, speak fluent

English, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese, Mandarin and Cantonese.

z Festivals & Events

Dragon-Boat Races

CULTURAL

(hMay)

Held in early May, particularly in Itoman and Naha. These hari (races) are

thought to bring luck and prosperity to fishers.

Naha Ōzunahiki

SPORTS

(hOct)

Takes place in Naha on Sunday around the national Sports Day Holiday, and

features large teams that compete in the world’s biggest tug of war, using a

gigantic 1m-thick rope weighing over 40 tonnes.

4 Sleeping

Minshuku Gettō

MINSHUKU

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 民宿月桃; %098-861-7555; 1-16-24 Matsuo; s with/without bathroom from

¥3500/3000; paiW)

Tucked into a small, quiet neighbourhood two minutes’ walk from Kokusai-

dōri, this spotless little minshuku offers secure, stand-alone apartments, some

with private bathrooms and kitchenettes. Reserve well in advance for a coveted

spot, as it’s a steal.

o Hotel Pesquera

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; ホテルペスケーラ; %098-894-8847; www.pesquera.okinawa.jp; 2-4-13 Wakasa; r from

¥6500; pnaW)

New in 2017, this lovable private hotel has simple polished concrete rooms

with exceedingly comfortable full-sized beds, ample balconies, functional

kitchenettes and full laundry facilities, including washer and dryer. Pesquera

offers that contented feeling you get when, exhausted, you enter your room

late, ready for bed, only to then wish you’d arrived earlier simply to enjoy the

space.

o Hotel Estinate

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$

( MAP ; エスティネートホテル; %098-943-4900; www.estinate.com; 2-3-11 Matsuyama; s/d from ¥5500/9500; nW)

There’s a lot to love about this homely little design hotel, which could have

been plucked from Tokyo’s Omote-sandō and transplanted into Naha’s up-and-

coming entertainment district. Rooms are sparsely but freshly furnished with

restrained bursts of colour that change the vibe from ‘bed for a night’ to ‘home

for a night’. Best of all: price.

The downstairs bar-restaurant and outdoor beer garden are lively smart-

casual places to mingle with locals and fellow travellers.

Hotel JAL City Naha

HOTEL

$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルJALシティ那覇; %098-866-2580; www.naha.jalcity.co.jp; 1-3-70

Makishi; s/d from ¥12,800/17,000; pnaiW)

In the middle of the action on Kokusai-dōri, JAL City has 304 swish, modern

rooms, in which even the single beds are wide enough to serve as snug doubles.

Though staff here speak limited English, the service is excellent and the

accommodation an elegant refuge from the noise of Kokusai-dōri.

5 Eating

o Shanghai Wantan Rō

CHINESE

$

( MAP ; 上海雲呑 樓; %098-943-4865; 2-21-21 Matsuyama; small plates ¥450-1080; h8pm-5am)

If you can hold out for this little late-night eatery, you won’t be disappointed.

The standouts of the drool-worthy menu (which is, incidentally, perfectly

paired with ice-cold beer) are the juicy, deep-fried wonton dumplings and, if

you’re going to do it right, Shanghai yaki-soba and a side of steamed Chinese

greens.

Ashibiunā

OKINAWAN

$

(あしびうなぁ; %098-884-0035; www.ryojifamily.co.jp/ryukyusabo.html; 2-13 Shuri Tonokurachō; lunch sets ¥800-1280; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-midnight)

Perfect for lunch after touring Shuri-jō, Ashibiunā has a traditional ambience

and picturesque garden. Set meals feature local specialities such as gōyā

champurū, okinawa-soba and ikasumi yaki-soba. On the road leading away

from Shuri-jō, Ashibiunā is on the right, just before the intersection to the main

road.

o Ryūkyū Ryōri Nuchigafū

OKINAWAN

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 琉球料理ぬちがふう; %098-861-2952;

www.facebook.com/RyukyuCuisine.Nuchigafu; 1-28-3 Tsuboya; set dinner from ¥3000; h11.30am-5pm

& 5.30-10pm Wed-Mon)

For a memorable, elegant meal in Naha, don’t pass up dinner at the hilltop

Nuchigafū, off the southern end of Tsuboya Pottery Street. Formerly a lovely

Okinawan teahouse, and before that a historic Ryūkyūan residence, Nuchigafū

serves lunch and frothy buku-buku tea during the day and beautifully plated

multicourse Okinawan dinners by night. Children aged 11 and older are

welcome.

o Yūnangi

OKINAWAN

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ゆうなんぎい; %098-867-3765; 3-3-3 Kumoji; dishes ¥750-1400; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

You’ll be lucky to get a seat here, but if you do, you’ll be treated to some of the

best Okinawan food around, served in traditional but bustling surroundings.

Try the okinawa-soba set (¥1400), or choose from the picture menu. It’s on a

side street off Kokusai-dōri – look for the wooden sign with white lettering

above the doorway.

Ukishima Garden

VEGETARIAN

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 浮島ガーデン; %098-943-2100; www.ukishima-garden.com; 2-12-3

Matsuo; lunch/dinner set menus from ¥1300/4200; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; v)

With pork featuring prominently in traditional Okinawan cuisine, Ukishima

Garden is a refreshing, cleansing change. Here vegetarian and vegan creations

utilise as much organic and locally grown produce as possible, resulting in

balanced and complex renditions of dishes from taco rice to spaghetti

carbonara. Pair your meal with organic wine; end with an amazake (fermented

rice milk) smoothie.

A FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO OKINAWA

Reflecting the islands’ geographic and historical isolation, Okinawa’s food shares little in common

with that of mainland Japan. The cuisine originated in the splendour of the Ryūkyū court and from

the humble lives of the impoverished islanders. Healthy eating is considered to be extremely

important; indeed, islanders have long held that medicine and food are essentially the same. And it

must be noted that Okinawans are among the longest-lived people in the world.

Today one of the island’s staple foods is pork, which is acidic and rich in protein. Every part of

the pig is eaten. Mimigā (ミミガー) is thinly sliced pig’s ears marinated in vinegar, perfect with a

cold glass of local Orion beer (オリオンビール). Rafutē (ラフテー) is pork stewed with ginger,

brown sugar, rice wine and soy sauce until it falls apart. If you need some stamina, try some

ikasumi-jiru (イカスミ汁), which is stewed pork in black squid ink.

While stewing is common, Okinawans prefer stir-frying, and refer to the technique as champurū

(チャンプルー). Perhaps the best-known stir-fry is gōyā champurū (ゴーヤーチャンプルー), a

mix of pork, bitter melon and the island’s uniquely sturdy tofu, shima-dōfu (島豆腐). Occasionally

you’ll come across an unusual tofu variant known as tōfuyō (豆腐痒), a type of shima-dōfu whose

strong flavour is due to fermentation in awamori (Okinawan liquor distilled from rice).

The ubiquitous okinawa-soba (沖縄そば) is udon (thick white wheat noodles) served in a pork

broth. The most common variants are sōki-soba (ソーキそば), topped with pork spare ribs, and

Yaeyama-soba (八重山そば), which contains soba topped with tiny pieces of tender pork, bean

sprouts and scallions.

Aside from gōyā champurū, bitter melon appears in all kinds of dishes, delivering a dose of

antioxidants and holding promise for its potential to combat diabetes.

Finally, there’s nothing quite like Blue Seal (ブルーシール) brand ice cream, an American

favourite introduced here after WWII. It’s best savoured at a shop rather than in prepacked

containers.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

Naha is the biggest and rowdiest city for hundreds of miles around, and most of

its nightlife centres on Kokusai-dōri and the streets and lanes either side of

Wakasa Ōdori.

Rehab

BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %098-988-1198; www.facebook.com/RehabInternationalBar; 3rd fl, 2-4-14

Makishi; h7pm-late)

This 3rd-floor international bar on Kokusai-dōri attracts a friendly, mixed

crowd and has cosy nook seating, imported beer and two-for-one drinks on

Tuesdays. The cool bartenders here speak English.

Helios Pub

PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ヘリオスパブ; %098-863-7227; www.helios-food-service.co.jp; 1-2-25

Makishi; h11.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Craft-beer lovers who tire of Orion can perk up bored palates with a sample

flight of four house brews (¥900) and pints for ¥525. Edibles cover the pub-

menu gamut, all very reasonably priced.

7 Shopping

o American Village

CONCEPT STORE

( MAP ; %098-926-5678; www.okinawaamericanvillage.com; 15-69 Mihama, Chatan-cho) This amusement-park-esque Americanthemed shopping mall is as kitsch as

they come, but if you can resist your instinctive resistance, closer exploration

will provide a fascinating glimpse into modern Okinawan life, where off-duty

GIs shop for memories of home alongside Chinese tourists on the hunt for

Americana. There are some excellent vintage-clothing stores, a bunch of fun

dining options and a big-ass Ferris wheel to boot.

Take the 20, 28 or 29 bus from Naha to the Kuwae stop (40 minutes, ¥720).

o San-A Naha Main Place

SHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP ; サンエー那覇メインプレイス; %098-951-3300; www.san-a.co.jp/nahamainplace; 4-4-9 Omoromachi; h9am-11pm)

Naha’s busiest downtown mall is always a hive of activity for its many duty-

free stores (including Tokyū Hands – great for, well, anything you can think),

cinema complex and array of enticing eateries where you should expect to

queue, any time of day.

8 Information

Tourist Information Counter (%098-857-6884; Naha International Airport, 1F Arrivals

Terminal; h9am-9pm) At Naha airport’s helpful tourism branch pick up a copy of

the Naha Guide Map or the Okinawa Guide Map.

Naha City Tourist Information Office (那覇市観光案内所; MAP ; %098-868-

4887; www.visit-okinawa.jp; 3-2-10 Makishi; h9am-8pm) Located in the Tenbus Building, this gives out free maps and information.

Okinawa Tourist (沖縄ツーリストサービス; OTS; MAP ; %098-862-1111;

www.otsinfo.co.jp; 1-2-3 Matsuo; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat) This competent travel agency, with English speakers, on Kokusai-dōri can help with all manner of

ferry and flight bookings. With the wide variety of options on offer, Naha is

one place where a travel agent can come in particularly handy.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Naha International Airport (那覇国際空港; Naha Kokusai-kūkō; OKA; %098-840-

1151; www.naha-airport.co.jp/en) has direct international connections with Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore and Taipei. Connections with mainland Japan

include Fukuoka, Osaka, Nagoya and Tokyo; significant discounts ( tabiwari on

All Nippon Airways and sakitoku on JAL) can sometimes be had if you

purchase tickets a month in advance. Note that this is only a partial list;

services from most large Japanese cities fly into Naha.

Naha also has air connections with Ishigakijima, Kume-jima, Miyako-jima

and Yoron-tō, among other Southwest Islands.

As well as JAL and ANA, try searching these low-cost carriers, which may

well have discount flights between Naha and where you wish to fly:

Jetstar (www.jetstar.co.jp)

Peach Aviation (www.flypeach.com)

Solaseed Air (www.solaseedair.jp)

Skymark (www.skymark.co.jp)

BOAT

Naha has regular ferry connections with ports in Honshū (Tokyo and

Osaka/Kōbe) and Kyūshū (Kagoshima).

Marix (%in Kagoshima 099-225-1551, in Naha 098-868-9098; www.marix-line.co.jp; Tomarin Port) and A Line (%in Naha 098-861-1886, in Tokyo 03-5643-6170; www.aline-ferry.com; Tomarin Port) operate four to six ferries a month to/from Tokyo (¥27,230, 47 hours) and

Osaka/Kōbe (¥19,330, 42 hours), as well as daily ferries to/from Kagoshima

(¥14,610, 25 hours).

There are three ports in Naha, and this can be confusing: Amami Islands

ferries operate from Naha Port (那覇港ポートフェリーターミナルビル;

MAP ); Tokyo/Osaka/Kōbe/Kagoshima ferries operate from Naha Shin Port (那

覇新港フェリーターミナルビル); and Kume-jima and Kerama Islands

ferries operate from Tomarin Port (とまりん港フェリーターミナル; MAP ).

Note that there is no ferry service to the Miyako or Yaeyama Islands from

Naha.

8 Getting Around

The Yui Rail monorail conveniently runs from Naha International Airport in

the south to Shuri in the north. Prices range from ¥200 to ¥290; one- and two-

day passes cost ¥700 and ¥1200, respectively. Kenchō-mae Station sits at the

western end of Kokusai-dōri, while Makishi Station is at its eastern end.

Naha Port is a 10-minute walk southwest from Asahibashi Station, while

Tomarin Port is a similar distance north from Miebashi Station. Bus 101 from

Naha Bus Terminal (那覇バスターミナル; MAP ; 1-20-1 Izumizaki) heads further

north to Naha Shin Port, taking 20 minutes and leaving hourly.

When riding on local town buses, simply dump ¥200 into the slot next to the

driver as you enter. For longer trips, take a ticket showing your starting point as

you board and pay the appropriate fare as you disembark. Buses run from Naha

to destinations all over the island. A handy English-language reference for

deciphering the many local bus lines is www.kotsu-okinawa.org/en.

A rental car makes everything easier when exploring Okinawa-hontō,

although traffic jams and low speed limits can be frustrating. The rental-car

counter in the arrivals hall of Naha International Airport offers information on

the dozen or so rental companies in Naha, allowing you to comparison shop.

AWAMORI

While travelling through the Southwest Islands, be sure to sample the local firewater, awamori (泡

盛), which is distilled from rice and has an alcohol content of 30% to 60%. Although it’s usually

served mizu-wari (水割; diluted with water), this is seriously lethal stuff, especially the habushu

(ハブ酒), which comes with a small snake in the bottle. If you’re hitting the awamori hard, take

our advice and cancel your plans for the next day (or two).

Southern Okinawa-hontō

During the closing days of the Battle of Okinawa, the southern part of

Okinawahontō served as one of the last holdouts of the Japanese military and

an evacuation point for wounded Japanese soldiers.

Okinawa’s most important war memorials are clustered in the Peace

Memorial Park, located in the city of Itoman on the southern coast of the

island.

A visit to the area as a day or half-day trip from Naha, is highly

recommended for those with an interest in wartime history or seeking a deeper

understanding of the modern Okinawan identity.

1 Sights

o Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum

MUSEUM

(沖縄県平和祈念資料館; MAP ; %098-997-3844; www.peace-museum.pref.okinawa.jp; 614-1

Aza Mabuni, Itoman; ¥300; h9am-5pm)

The centrepiece of the Peace Memorial Park focuses on the suffering of the

Okinawan people during the island’s invasion and under the subsequent

American Occupation. While some material may stir debate, the museum’s

mission is to serve as a reminder of the horrors of war, so that such suffering is

not repeated. There is a free Englishlanguage audio guide available, providing

great detail on the 2nd-floor exhibit.

o Himeyuri Peace Museum

MUSEUM

(ひめゆり平和祈念資料館; MAP ; %098-997-2100; www.himeyuri.or.jp; 671-1 Ihara, Itoman;

¥310; h9am-5.30pm)

Located above a cave that served as an emergency field hospital during the

closing days of the Battle of Okinawa, the Himeyuri Peace Museum is a

haunting monument whose mission is to promote peace, driven by survivors

and alumnae of the school. Here 240 female high-school students were pressed

into service as nurses for Japanese military wounded. As American forces

closed in, the students were summarily dismissed and, thus abandoned, most

perished. Excellent, comprehensive interpretive signage is provided in English.

Bus 82 stops outside.

Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters

MUSEUM

(旧海軍司令部壕; Kyūkaigun Shireibu-gō; MAP ; %098-850-4055; http://kaigungou.ocvb.or.jp;

236 Tomishiro, Tomigusuku; ¥440; h8.30am-5pm Oct-Jun, to 5.30pm Jul-Sep)

Directly south of Naha in Kaigungo-kōen is the Former Japanese Navy

Underground Headquarters, where 4000 men committed suicide or were killed

as the Battle of Okinawa drew to its bloody conclusion. Only 250m of the

tunnels are open, but you can wander through the maze of corridors, see the

commander’s final words on the wall of his room, and inspect the holes and

scars in other walls from the grenade blasts that killed many of the men.

To reach the site, take bus 55 or 98 from Naha Bus Terminal to the Uebaru

Danchi-mae stop (¥220, 10 minutes, several hourly). From there it’s a five-

minute walk – follow the English signs (the entrance is near the top of the hill).

Peace Memorial Park

PARK

(平和祈念公園; MAP ; 550 Mabuni; hdawn-dusk)

Housing Okinawa’s most important war memorials, including the Okinawa

Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum, the Peace Memorial Park occupies an

appropriately peaceful coastal location in the southern city of Itoman.

To reach the park, take bus 89 from Naha bus terminal to the Itoman bus

terminal (¥580, one hour, every 20 minutes), then transfer to bus 82, and get off

at Heiwa Kinen-dō Iriguchi (¥470, 30 minutes, hourly).

Cornerstone of Peace

MONUMENT

(平和の礎; 614-1 Aza Mabuni, Itoman; hdawn-dusk) F

Outside the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum is the Cornerstone

of Peace, inscribed with the names of everyone who died in the Battle of

Okinawa.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Southern Beach Hotel and Resort

RESORT

$$

(サザンビーチホテルアンドリゾート; %098-992-7500;

www.southernbeachhotelresort.com; 1-6-1 Nishizaki, Itoman; d from ¥14,400; paWs) Located in Itoman city, south of Naha, this freshly updated resort offers an

oasis from Naha’s hustle and bustle while remaining within easy reach of the

city. Its bright, light-filled rooms have a splash of colour and big, comfy beds,

and guests enjoy the resort’s pool, gym and dining facilities. Great value.

Hyakuna Garan

RYOKAN

$$$

(百名伽藍; MAP ; %098-949-1011; www.hyakunagaran.com; 1299-1 Hyakuna, Tamagusuku; d from

¥45,000; paW)

This exquisite ryokan is one for those whose wallets can stretch a little further

than most, and who value the finer details of the culinary art of kaiseki course

dining and the less-is-more concept of wabi-sabi in architecture and design.

Supremely luxurious rooms are not to be forgotten.

Yama-no-Chaya

OKINAWAN

$$

(山の茶屋; MAP ; %098-948-1227; http://yama.hamabenochaya.com; 19-1 Tamagusuku, Nanjō-shi; meals ¥800-1400; h11am-6pm Fri-Wed; v)

If you’re exploring southern Okinawahontō, seek out this serene, ocean-view

cafe nestled in the forest. This is a lovely place for refreshing vegetarian fare

made with organic and local ingredients. It’s a 10-minute walk from the

Mibaru Beach stop on bus 39 from Naha.

8 Getting There & Away

Southern Okinawa-hontō is conveniently served by regular buses from Naha,

but renting a car will give you more freedom to explore the area’s diverse

attractions.

Motobu Peninsula

It’s about an hour’s drive north of Naha to the city of Nago and the hilly

Motobu Peninsula, which is home to some scenic vistas, islets and decent

beaches, as well as an incredibly popular aquarium. Aside from that, there’s not

a lot to ‘do’ out here, other than to relax, read a good book and glimpse a more

authentic Okinawan way of life than you might find among the colourful

distractions of big-city Naha.

1 Sights

Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

AQUARIUM

(沖縄美ら海水族館; MAP ; %0980-48-3748, for GPS navigation systems 0980-48-2741;

www.churaumi.okinawa; 424 Ishikawa, Motobu-chō; adult/child ¥1850/610; h8.30am-6.30pm Oct-Feb, to 8pm Mar-Sep)

The centrepiece of Motobu’s Ocean Expo Park (海洋博公園) is the Okinawa

Churaumi Aquarium, which features the world’s largest aquarium tank. The

aquarium houses a wide variety of marine life, including whale sharks.

Dolphins are also kept here, a practice widely acknowledged as harmful to the

animals’ health. The aquarium is on every visitor’s checklist, so it’s usually

packed. From Nago, buses 65, 66 and 70 run directly to the park (¥860, 50

minutes).

Kōri-jima

ISLAND

(古字利島; MAP ; Kōri-jima, Motobu-chō)

Aquariums and crowds not your cup of tea? If you’ve got your own wheels,

drive out to Kōri-jima via Yagaji-jima (屋我地島). The bridge between the

two islands is surrounded by picturesque turquoise water, and there’s a decent

beach on either side of the road as you reach Kōri-jima. The bridge to Yagaji-

jima starts just north of the Motobu Peninsula off Rte 58.

Bise

VILLAGE

(備瀬; Bise, Motobu-chō)

At the northwestern tip of the peninsula is the quaintly preserved village of

Bise, a leafy beachside community of traditional Okinawan houses. Stroll

along Fukugi-namiki-dōri (フクギ並木通り), an atmospheric lane lined with

old garcinia trees, taking a peek at the local beach on the northern end. Near

the lane’s southern end, find refreshment at beachside cafe Cahaya Bulan.

2 Activities

Piranha Divers

DIVING

( MAP ; %080-4277-1155, 098-967-8487; www.piranha-divers.jp; 2288-532 Aza-Nakama, Nago; 2-dive

boat trips from ¥14,000, equipment rental ¥5000)

In Onna Village in the Nago area, this excellent family-run operation caters to

individuals and small groups. Dive guides speak fluent English, German and

Japanese.

4 Sleeping

Nago city has plenty of decent dining options, including all the big Japanese

chain-offerings you’ve grown to love. Beyond that, in the smaller hamlets of

the Motobu Peninsula, you’ll be limited to a sparse scattering of cafes and

izakaya around the tourist sites.

Hotel Route-Inn Nago

BUSINESS HOTEL

$$

(ホテルルートイン名護; %0980-54-8511; www.route-inn.co.jp; 5-11-3 Agarie; s/tw from

¥6600/11,700; paW)

This stock-standard business hotel is a hop, skip and a jump from the

waterfront. It benefits from its design palette – featuring natural, earthy tones

that soften the fluorescent lighting and late-night vibe, which seem to be the

decor downside to this otherwise great-value accommodation.

Class Inn Nago

HOTEL

$$

(クラスイン名護; %0980-43-0020; www.class-inn.com; 875-25 Miyazato, Nago; s/d from

¥6700/9500; paW)

The rooms of this smart condo tower, shiny new in December 2017, have a

hybrid hotel-room/studioapartment feel. Accommodations feature dark wood

furnishings, comfortable bedding, and full kitchen and laundry facilities.

Cahaya Bulan

OKINAWAN

$

(チャハヤブラン; %098-051-7272; 429-1 Bise; ajian-soba ¥850; hnoon-sunset Thu-Tue, winter

Fri-Tue; pW)

Relax on the outdoor patio of this Bise cafe and slurp some noodles, such as

ajian-soba (Asian-style soba), while enjoying views of Ie-jima.

8 Getting There & Away

By car, the drive from Naha to Nago takes about an hour; from there, it’s about

another hour to loop all the way around the peninsula.

The Motobu Peninsula is served by frequent loop lines from Nago – buses

66 and 65 respectively run anticlockwise and clockwise around the peninsula.

KERAMA ISLANDS

Depending on when you visit, the coralfringed Kerama Islands (慶良間諸

島) feel worlds apart from bustling Naha, a cheap and cheery boat ride away.

Their azure waters provide sanctuary for sea turtles and breeding humpback

whales, while safe white-sand beaches, ideal for swimming, snorkelling and

lazy sun-bathing, are the main reasons to visit.

That said, since being declared a national park (Kerama Shotō Kokuritsu

Kōen; 慶良間諸島国立公園) in 2014, their increased popularity with tour

groups and day trippers from Naha means that during summer holidays,

crowded ferries and beaches can make you feel like you’ve been

transplanted into a pan-Asian spring break, instead of an idyllic island

paradise.

Each of the three main islands – Zamamijima, Aka-jima and Tokashiki-

jima – can be visited as day trips from Naha, but to savour the slow-paced

pleasures, visit in shoulder season and spend a night in a rustic island hostel

or minshuku.

4 Sleeping & Eating

You won’t find any fancy-pants luxury resorts in the Keramas, which is part

of their charm. What you will find are diving-centric minshuku and sleepy

island pensions – the bulk of which are concentrated on Zamamijima.

On Aka-jima, you’re best off reserving breakfast and dinner with your

accommodation, as everything on this tiny island shuts down early, including

the two basic shops selling food. Zamami-jima has some restaurants and

cafes open for lunch and dinner, though it’s a good idea to have breakfast at

your accommodation.

8 Getting There & Around

Zamami Village Office (座間味村役場; %098-868-4567) operates two high-

speed services per day on the Queen Zamami 3 (¥3140, 70 minutes) and one

daily service on the slower Ferry Zamami (¥2120, 1½ hours) between

Zamami-jima and Naha’s Tomari Port. The ferries usually stop at Aka-jima

en route (same price). Advance reservations can be made online by

following the link from www.zamamitouristinfo.wordpress.com/getting-here

to the official ferry site.

The Mitsu Shima motorboat also makes four trips a day between Aka-

jima and Zamami-jima (¥300, 15 minutes). For detailed information, refer to

www.zamamienglishguide.com/ferries.

Aka-jima 阿嘉島

%098 / POP 300

A mere 2km in diameter, tiny Aka-jima (阿嘉島) makes up for in beauty

what it lacks in size. Some of the best beaches in the Keramas and an

extremely peaceful atmosphere mean it’s easy to get stuck here for several

days – and, of course, there’s great snorkelling and diving offshore.

If you keep your eyes open around dusk you might spot a Kerama deer

(慶良間シカ; kerama shika), descendants of deer that were brought by the

Satsuma from Kagoshima when they conquered the Ryūkyūs in 1609. The

deer are smaller and darker than their mainland cousins, and have been

designated a National Treasure.

It’s important to note that the main village on Aka-jima is Zamami-mura

but Zamamijima is the name of the slightly larger island just north of Aka-

jima.

1 Sights & Activities

Both Marine House Seasir and Kawai Diving double as dive shops and

minshuku. Both have English-speaking dive guides and friendly vibes.

o Nishibama Beach

BEACH

(北浜ビーチ; Zamami-mura)

Lovely beaches fringe every side of the island, but for sheer postcard-perfect

beauty, it’s hard to beat the 1km stretch of white sand on the northeast coast

known as Nishibama Beach. It can be crowded in summer; if you want

privacy, there are quieter beaches on the other sides of the island.

4 Sleeping

o Marine House Seasir

MINSHUKU

$$

(マリンハウスシーサー; %090-8668-6544, in English 098-869-4022; www.seasir.com; 162

Aka; s/d incl 3 meals from ¥9800/17,600; paW)

At the west end of the main village, this diver-focused minshuku has good,

clean Western- and Japanese-style rooms just a minute’s amble from the

beach. Credit cards are accepted, and a range of diving courses are available.

Hanamuro Inter-Islander’s Hotel

MINSHUKU

$$

(ハナムロインターアイランダーズホテル; %098-987-2301;

http://hanamuroint.wixsite.com/keramablue; 179 Aka; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥9100; naW) Since the building that houses it is also a marine-biology research facility,

this minshuku may look a little industrial from the outside. But the rooms are

quiet, spacious and comfortable, with private terraces affording excellent

sunrise views. Hire snorkelling equipment here (¥1000) and hop on the free

shuttle to Nishibama Beach before returning for a creatively delicious

dinner. Cash only.

Rates are reduced for stays longer than one night.

Hanamuro Inn

GUESTHOUSE

$$

(ハナムロイン; %098-98-2301; www.geocities.jp/hanamuroint; 52 Aka; r per person incl 2

meals from ¥7500; naW)

All six rooms at this cosy inn share bathrooms and a terrace with one-person

soaker tubs. It’s a one-minute walk to the beach if you dawdle. It closes

completely after high season, but the innkeepers also run the Hanamuro

Inter-Islander’s Hotel at the back of the village, year-round.

Kawai Diving

MINSHUKU

$$

(%098-987-2219; www.oki-zamami.jp/~kawai; 153 Aka; s/d incl 2 meals from ¥7200/14,400; paiW) Perched just above Maehama Beach on the south coast, this inn has simple

rooms, a family atmosphere and a relaxed beachside location. English-

speaking staff are happy to tell guests about the island and take them diving

(one/two dives ¥7000/11,000, including equipment rental). Please note: cash

payments only.

Zamami-jima 座間味島

%098 / POP 924

Not to be confused with Zamami-mura, the village on Aka-jima, Zamami-

jima (座間味島), just across the bay, is only slightly more developed. The

island has its own share of lovely beaches, with great diving and snorkelling

in the surrounding waters including a handful of delightful, even smaller

offshore islands, which are accessible with the help of local guides. Plentiful

tour options are available.

From January to March migrating humpback whales can be observed in

these tropical waters, and Zamami is a popular spot for whale-watching

expeditions.

1 Sights & Activities

Diving is one of the main draws of the gorgeous Keramas. It’s always

advisable to do your research online and book ahead, but if you’ve not been

able to do that, drop into Joy Joy pension, which usually has helpful English-

speaking guides on staff.

Whale-watching is possible between the months of December and April.

For more information, either enquire at the tourist information office or call

the Zamami-mura Whale-Watching Association (座間味村ホエール

ウォッチング協会; %098-896-4141; www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/whale; adult/child

¥5400/2700), which has one to two tours daily (two hours).

If you fancy a little solitude, you’ll find picturesque empty beaches in the

coves on the other sides of the island, away from the village. The best

beaches, however, are on the islets of Gahi-jima (嘉比島) and Agenashiku-

jima (安慶名敷島), which are located about a kilometre south of the port.

Ringed by delightful white-sand beaches, they are perfect for a half-day

Robinson Crusoe experience.

The tourist information office can help arrange boat tours (¥1500 per

person round trip).

Rental cars, scooters and bicycles are available near the pier.

o Furuzamami Beach

BEACH

(古座間味ビーチ; 1743 Zamami)

Approximately 1km southeast from the port (over the hill) is this stunning

700m stretch of white sand, fronted by clear, shallow water and a bit of

coral. The beach is well developed for day trippers, with toilets, showers and

food stalls. You can also rent snorkelling gear here (¥1000).

4 Sleeping

Joy Joy

PENSION

$

(ジョイジョイ; %098-987-2445; www.keramajoyjoy.com; 434-2 Zamami; r per person without

bathroom incl breakfast from ¥6000; aW)

This pension in the northwest corner of the village has Western- and

Japanese-style rooms that surround a small garden area. It also runs a dive

shop, with two-dive boat tours that include all equipment from ¥12,000.

Cha Villa

GUESTHOUSE

$$

(チャーヴィラ; %098-987-3737; www.miniyon3737.sakura.ne.jp; 90 Zamami; s/d

¥8000/12,000; naW)

‘Cha-bira’ means ‘I’m home!’ in the local dialect, and anchored by a shady

tree in the garden out front, this friendly place feels just like home. Its

attached cafe serves breakfast (should you crave toast and eggs rather than

the usual Japanese spread) and light meals. Both Japanese- and Western-

style rooms are available, all with private bathroom and kitchenette.

Marumiya

OKINAWAN

$$

(まるみや; %098-987-3166; 432-2 Zamami; lunch special ¥700; h11am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm

Thu-Tue; a)

Cheap, delicious, friendly and therefore popular, the busy Marumiya offers a

variety of Okinawan and Japanese dishes. Its inexpensive lunch specials are

a great deal, but sell out fast.

8 Information

Maps and English-language information are dispensed at the port’s Zamami

Village Tourist Information Center (%098-987-2277;

www.zamamitouristinfo.wordpress.com; h9am-5pm; W). An excellent online resource is

www.zamamienglishguide.com.

KUME-JIMA 久米島

%098 / POP 7647

Kume-jima (久米島), the furthest flung of the Okinawan islands – located

about 90km west of Naha, from port to port, as the crow flies – is close

enough for easy access and just far enough away to retain that real ‘island’

feel. Its location and transport connections, while convenient and affordable,

mean that the island isn’t really a day-trip destination, unlike the

neighbouring Keramas. The plus side to this is that Kume-jima rarely feels

crowded.

While there are some mountainous areas offering spectacular views, the

island’s 63.5 sq km of terrain is mostly flat and covered with sugar cane. Its

shoreline boasts a few lovely beaches and the mother of all sandbars off its

east coast. There’s also a decent selection of interesting historic sites, vistas

and activities beyond snorkelling and diving, making Kume-jima a worthy

overnight or two-night stay.

For a moment at least, you might not want to leave.

1 Sights & Activities

o Former Uezu Residence

HISTORIC BUILDING

(上江洲家; 816 Nishime; ¥300; h10am-6pm)

Built around 1750, this traditional Ryūkyūan dwelling was the former home

of Kumejima’s dominant clan, the Uezu family. Lovingly maintained and set

amid a beautiful subtropical garden, the grounds of this open house are a

delight to stroll among – you can almost feel the ghosts of the past

overseeing your visit, grateful for your interest in their lineage.

Uegusuku Castle Ruins

RUINS

(宇江城城跡; Uegusukujo-ato; 2064-1 Uegusuku; p) F

Perched atop the island’s highest peak, at an elevation of around 310m, are

the meticulously placed crumbling stone walls of what was once the

stronghold of the ruling Kume lord, before the 16th century. Views from the

tiered levels of the former castle, looking out over the East China Sea, and

the whole of Kume-jima, are nothing short of spectacular.

Tatami-ishi

BEACH

(畳石; Ōjima)

On tiny Ōjima (奥武島), which is connected to Kume-jima’s east coast by a

causeway, you’ll find the intriguing Tatamiishi, a natural formation of flat

pentagonal rocks that covers the seashore. When the water is calm, the beach

around the rocks is a safe and pleasant place to frolic, swim and snorkel.

Nearby you’ll find Bade Haus Kumejima onsen and its delightful Ōjima

Campgrounds (奥武島キャンプ場; %098-985-8600; www.bade-

kumejima.co.jp/about/camp; 170-1 Ōjima; per night adult/child ¥540/270).

Eef Beach

BEACH

(イーフビーチ)

Kume-jima’s most popular beach is also one of its nicest, though it sadly

does receive its fair share of flotsam from the ocean. Iifu (Eef) means ‘white’

in the local Kume dialect, and not surprisingly, the beach is known for its

powdery white sand. The mainstay of Kume-jima’s accommodation,

restaurants and facilities are found in the area alongside the beachfront.

Hate-no-hama

BEACH

(はての浜)

Kume-jima’s most famous attraction is this 7km sandbar that extends from

the eastern point of the island, pointing back towards Okinawa-hontō. If you

arrive by air, you can’t miss this coral-fringed strip of white framed by

turquoise sea. Hatenohama Kankō Service runs three-hour tours out here.

Shinri-hama

BEACH

(シンリ浜)

As any local will tell you, this attractive beach is the best place on the island

for watching the sunset over the East China Sea. Find it on the west coast

near Cypress Resort.

o Bade Haus Kumejima

ONSEN

(バーデハウス久米島; %098-985-8600; www.bade-kumejima.co.jp; 170-1 Ōjima; large pool

only ¥2000, onsen bath & sauna only ¥1000; h10am-9pm, last entry 8pm)

On little Ōjima island, by the Tatami-ishi rock formations, you’ll find this

shiny seaside bathhouse, which has a slightly European vibe. A large indoor

pool with jets is filled with mineral-rich sea water, pumped up from a depth

of 612m. Swimwear is required in this section of the complex, but if you’re

looking for a more Japanese onsen-style experience, there’s a quieter,

clothing optional sauna and hot-tub area, which is refreshing after a

skinparching day in the sun.

T Tours

Hatenohama Kankō Service

BOATING

(はての浜観光サービス; %090-8292-8854; https://inhatenohama.wixsite.com/hatenohama;

172 Une; tours from adult/child ¥3500/2000)

Hatenohama Kankō Service runs a range of tours to the sandbar, starting

with the basic two-hour free-time plan, for ¥3500. Hotel pick-ups are

available – enquire at your accommodation. Departure times, set by the

captain in advance, are subject to tidal and weather conditions and may be

cancelled at short notice due to unforgiving seas.

4 Sleeping & Eating

The majority of accommodation options are located along the 1.5km

waterfront stretch of Eef Beach, but if you’re looking for a more far-flung

island feel, there are a number of decent options scattered about the island.

There are plenty of izakaya along Eef Beach as well as a supermarket and

a 24-hour convenience store.

Minshuku Nankurunaisā

MINSHUKU

$

(民宿なんくるないさぁ; %098-985-7973; 160-68 Higa; r per person from ¥5500; piW)

If you’re looking for a clean, quiet, family-run minshuku in the Eef Beach

area, this is a solid, no-frills option welcoming international guests.

o Cypress Resort

RESORT

$$

(%098-985-3700; www.cypresshotels.jp/kumejima; 803-1 Ōhara; s/d from ¥11,925/13,050; pnaWs) Kume-jima’s nicest digs are found near the airport, fronting the lovely-atsunset Shinri-hama beach. The resort boasts an attractive (though shallow

and tepid) beachfront infinity pool; friendly, helpful staff; an excellent

restaurant; and large, ocean-fronted rooms with deep balconies. Unless you

have a car, you’re limited to the resort’s dining options as there are few

facilities in the area, especially after dark.

Kumejima Eef Beach Hotel

HOTEL

$$

(久米島イーフビーチホテル; %098-985-7111; www.courthotels.co.jp; 548 Janadō; s/d

incl breakfast from ¥8800/14,600; pnaiWs)

The somewhat dated though absolute waterfront Eef Beach Hotel is a good

bet for budget-with-a-whiff-of-luxury stays on the island. It’s location,

location, location here, with beach and the island’s mainstay of dining

options and facilities mere steps away. An airport shuttle is available.

Yangwa Soba

OKINAWAN

$

(そば やん小〜; %080-3226-3130; 509 Nakadomari; dishes ¥550-900; hnoon-2pm or until sold

out Mon-Sat; p)

Kume-jima’s most famous soba shop is open for lunch only and is worth the

trip. Serving handmade noodles out of his own home, the hospitable

Nakasone-san cultivates a warm and nurturing island vibe. Enjoy your

Kume-jima soba (with barbecued pork rib), or miso and bean-sprout soba, in

the open-air tatami dining room or at the table in the front garden.

8 Information

Kumejima Tourism Association (久米島町観光協会; %098-851-7973;

www.kanko-kumejima.com; 160-57 Higa, Eef Beach Information Plaza; h10am-4pm) Has offices are located near Eef Beach, and operates a helpful counter at the airport in

summer (opens to meet incoming flights.)

8 Getting There & Away

The airport (久米島空港; Kumejima Kūkō; %098-985-4812; 566-2 Kitahara) is at the

western extreme of the island, with the main port of Kanegusuku (兼城) just

a few kilometres south. JTA and RAC operate five to six flights a day

between Naha and Kume-jima.

Kume Shōsen (久米商船; %098-868-2686; www.kumeline.com) runs one or two

daily ferries from Naha’s Tomari Port to/from Kumejima’s Kanegusuku Port

(¥3390, three hours).

8 Getting Around

The island has an efficient bus system, and there are several rental-car

companies at the port and airport. Renting a car (from ¥5500 per day) is by

far your best bet for uncovering the island’s unsung charms.

THREE-STRING HARMONY

Stroll through any Okinawan town and before long you’ll likely hear the tinkly sound of the

sanshin, a banjolike precursor to the ubiquitous shamisen that is played on Japan’s main islands.

Typically constructed of a wooden frame covered with python skin, the sanshin has a long

lacquered neck, a bamboo bridge and three strings that are struck with a plectrum, often carved

from the horn of a water buffalo.

Introduced from China in the 16th century, the sanshin was used for court music during the

Ryūkyū kingdom and later prized by commoners for its soothing sound; in the devastation that

followed WWII, sanshin made of tin cans and nylon string cheered the exhausted survivors.

Today you can hear folk songs featuring sanshin all over Japan. Musicians such as Takashi

Hirayasu and Yoriko Ganeko have helped popularise the sound in and out of Japan, so you can

even find sanshin groups overseas.

MIYAKO ISLANDS 宮古諸島

Just north of the Tropic of Cancer, the Miyako Islands (宮古諸島) have

some of the most beautiful white-sand beaches in the Nansei-Shotō, with

good diving, snorkelling and kiteboarding to boot. The island group consists

of the main island of Miyako-jima, along with Ikema-jima, Irabu-jima,

Shimojijima and Kurima-jima, plus a scattering of tiny islets.

In 2015, nine years of construction culminated in the opening of the

3540m Irabu Bridge (伊良部大橋), rendering the ferry obsolete and

making Irabu-jima and Shimoji-jima much more accessible from Miyako-

jima. Despite the increased ease of getting here, these islands retain a stuck-

in-time feel and an unhurried pace, enhanced by abiding island congeniality.

One gets the feeling that the rush of tourism and development that was

anticipated once the bridge was completed never really came, which makes

the area, whose natural beauty sells itself, just that little bit more interesting.

8 Getting There & Away

Both JTA/RAC (Japan Airlines) and ANA fly into Miyakojima Airport (宮

古島空港; Miyakojimakūkō; MMY; MAP ; %0980-72-1212; 1657-128 Shimozato), which is

centrally located, a short drive from most accommodation and the busy

Hirara town centre.

Scheduled direct services connect the island with Tokyo’s Haneda Airport

(JTA/ANA), Osaka’s Kansai Airport (ANA), Naha (JTA/RAC/ANA) and

Ishigaki (RAC/ANA) airports.

8 Getting Around

Miyako-jima has a limited bus network that operates from two bus stands in

Miyakojima city’s Hirara district. Buses run between the airport and Hirara

(¥230, 10 minutes).

Buses also depart from Yachiyo bus terminal for Ikema-jima (¥510, 35

minutes), and from the Miyako Kyōei bus terminal, 700m east of town, to

Yoshino-kaigan/Boraga Beach (¥510, 50 minutes). Yet another line runs

between Hirara and Yoneha-Maehama/Kurima-jima (¥390, 30 minutes).

The island’s flat terrain is perfectly suited to biking; hire bicycles from

guesthouse Hiraraya or enquire at the Miyakojima Tourism Association.

Most will find renting a car from the numerous car-rental outlets at the

airport to be the most practical and efficient way to explore the islands.

Irabu-jima and Shimoji-jima are connected to Miyako-jima by a series of

bridges.

Miyako-jima 宮古島

%0980 / POP 54,908

The main island in the Miyako group, Miyakojima (宮古島) is a mostly flat

expanse of sugar cane edged with excellent beaches and long fingers of land

pointing out into the sea. Lying just offshore are four smaller islands, all of

which are connected to the main island by bridges.

You can happily spend your days here hopping from one great beach to

the next, with a spot of snorkelling, stand-up paddleboarding or even fly-

boarding, if you fancy. If you tire of those, a seaside drive to the various

capes and wetlands is a great way to spend a few hours.

If you’re visiting another of the bigger islands beyond the pull of

Okinawa-hontō, both Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima have their own merits.

Miyako is a little rougher around the edges than its southern counterpart, but

that adds to its charm. You’ll feel a bit more like Robinson Crusoe here.

1 Sights

o Sunayama Beach

BEACH

(砂山ビーチ; MAP ; %0980-73-2690; h7am-7pm; p)

Just 4km north of the Hirara district of Miyakojima city, you’ll find this

little, archetypally tropical Japan beach, which lies at the bottom of a large

sand dune (hence the name ‘Sand Mountain Beach’). If you’ve only got one

beach day to spend, or are getting around via bus, park yourself here. Find

showers and toilets here, too.

Yonaha-Maehama Beach

BEACH

(与那覇前浜ビーチ; MAP ; 1199 Yonaha; p)

On the southwest coast, beautiful Yonaha-Maehama is a 6km stretch of

white sand that attracts a lot of families and young folk due to its shallow

waters. It’s a lovely beach, but it can get crowded, and the presence of an

occasional jet ski is a drawback. It’s just before the Kurima-Ōhashi bridge,

on the north side. You can rent a wide range of beach gear, and even try out

fly-boarding, from the rental outfitters by the car park.

Nagamahama

BEACH

(長間浜; MAP ; Kurima Shimoji)

If you’ve seen the crowds at Yonaha-Maehama and decided you want

something quieter, head across the Kurima Bridge and drive to the northwest

coast of Kurima-jima (来間島), where you will find the brilliant (and

usually uncrowded) Nagamahama.

Higashi Henna-zaki

LIGHTHOUSE

(東平安名崎; MAP ; Higashi-henna)

If you’ve got a car, we recommend a drive out to the southeastern tip of the

island, a narrow finger of land that extends 2km into the Pacific Ocean.

There are picnic tables, walking trails and a lighthouse at the point to

explore.

Boraga Beach

BEACH

(保良泉ビーチ; MAP ; Gusukube)

On the southeast end of the island, this is a popular spot for snorkelling and

kayaking (with a hair-raisingly steep access road).

Ikema-jima

ISLAND

(池間島; MAP )

Head north to drive across Ikema-Ōhashi (池間大橋) to the little island of

Ikema-jima. The shallow aquamarine water on either side of this 1.4km

bridge is insanely beautiful on a sunny day (just try to keep your eyes on the

road). You’ll find several secluded pocket beaches around the coast of

Ikema-jima.

Hirara

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Penguin Divers

A2

4 Sleeping

2 Hiraraya

B1

3 Hotel Peace Island Miyakojima

B3

5 Eating

4 Mojanopan

B1

5 Nanraku

B3

6 Pōcha Tatsuya

B3

2 Activities

Miyako-jima Onsen

ONSEN

(宮古島温泉; MAP ; %0980-75-5151; https://miyakojima-onsen.co.jp; 1898-19 Higashinakasone; ¥900; h11am-10pm, last admission 9pm)

More like a sento (public bath) than a typical mainland onsen, Miyako’s

original bathhouse, with attached hotel and treatment centre, has a chilled-

out, communal vibe. Its earthy, mineral-rich waters are just the right

temperature. Located in the middle of the island, about a 15-minute drive

from Hirara, it’s the perfect place to rejuvenate your paddleboarding-tired

muscles and soothe your sun-parched skin.

Shigira Ōgon Onsen

ONSEN

(シギラ黄金温泉; MAP ; %092-687-5294; www.nanseirakuen.com; 1405-223 Ueno Shinzato;

adult/child ¥1500/800; hnoon-10pm, last entry 9.30pm)

Nestled among the prime real estate of the Shigira Resorts you’ll find this

exclusive-looking onsen spa resort with its lagoon-style jungle pool

(swimwear required), swimming pool and more traditional rotemburo pools.

Better still, private rooms centred on a private outdoor bath are available in

90-minute blocks (¥4320). A great way to limber up for your next interisland

flight.

Penguin Divers

DIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ペンギンダイバーズ; %0980-79-5433; www.diving-penguin.com; 40

Shimozato, Hirara; 2 boat dives ¥13,000)

This low-key dive-shop in the Hirara district of Miyakojima city, run by a

friendly, English-speaking Fijian-Japanese couple, is great for beginners.

Rentals are available.

C Courses

Miyako Crafts Workshop Village

COURSE

(宮古島市体験工芸村; MAP ; %0980-73-4111; www.miyakotaiken.com; 1166-286

Higashinakasone, Hirara; workshops from ¥1500; h10am-6pm)

At this crafts village adjoining the Miyako Botanical Garden, you can learn

about Miyako-jima’s traditional handicrafts with some hands-on creativity.

Course offerings, most of which are suitable for kids, include making shiisā

(lion-dog roof guardians) from clay, cooking Miyako specialities, and

Miyako-jōfu (traditional weaving). Though some workshops accommodate

walk-ins, it’s best to make reservations beforehand.

4 Sleeping

Hiraraya

GUESTHOUSE

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ひららや; %0980-75-3221; www.miyako-net.ne.jp/~hiraraya; 282-1

Higashi-nakasone, Hirara; dm per night/week ¥2500/15,000, s/d ¥3500/6000; paW)

The genial, Englishspeaking Hiro presides over this laid-back spot where

young neighbours and friends cruise in to hang out. Accommodation is

available in a dorm with huge curtained bunk beds, or a Japanese-style

private room. All guests share the facilities, which include a big kitchen.

Look for the doorway curtain that says ‘Hiraraya’ down the side of the quiet

lane.

Hotel Peace Island Miyakojima

HOTEL

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ホテルピースアイランド宮古島; %0980-74-1717; http://peace-

k.jp/miyako; 310 Nishizato, Hirara; s/d incl breakfast from ¥7900/9500; paW)

Peace Island has a bright, clean, welcoming vibe, even if the rooms are

decidedly average – except for the luxury of washer-dryer units in every

room. The hotel’s brand-new annexe across the street (the ‘Hotel Peacely In

Miyakojima Nexus’) has the best rooms, set up like minicondos, with wood

flooring, tiny kitchenettes and in-room laundry units.

Raza Cosmica Tourist Home

HOTEL

$$

(ラザ・コスミカツーリストホーム; MAP ; %0980-75-2020; www.raza-cosmica.com;

309-1 Hirara-maezato; r per person without bathroom ¥7000; paW)

This serene South Asian–themed inn sits above a lovely secluded beach on

Ikema-jima. Wood-floored, Western-style rooms offer peace and quiet –

especially as children under 12 are not permitted. Spotless bathroom

facilities are shared. Because of its somewhat isolated location, it’s best to

rent a car. Reservations must be made in advance via email.

Island Terrace Neela

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$

(アイランドテラス・ニーラ; MAP ; %0980-74-4678; www.neela.jp; 317-1

Hiraramaezato; s/d incl breakfast from ¥36,000/39,600; paWs)

Overlooking a serene white-sand beach on Ikema-jima, this intimate high-

end resort looks like a whitewashed Mediterranean retreat airlifted to Japan.

The private villas would make a decadent honeymoon destination. Rates are

moderately less expensive during slower seasons.

5 Eating & Drinking

The downtown alleys of Miyakojima city’s Hirara district come alive at

night and offer the best dining variety, though there are numerous options

further afield.

One of Miyako-jima’s local specialities is the seaweed known as umibudō

(literally ‘sea grapes’), with a softly crunchy texture and sweet seawater

flavour. Sea grapes don’t travel so well, so it’s a delicacy to enjoy almost

exclusively here and in the Yaeyama Islands.

o Rāmen House Tida

NOODLES

$

(ラーメンハウスてぃだ; MAP ; %0980-73-9113; 3107-325 Shimozato, Hirara; noodle

bowls ¥550-850; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm)

This old-school family noodle joint exudes a Shōwaera movie vibe if only

for its fabulously faded original decor. Friendly hosts dish out hearty bowls

of steaming broth, tasty fried rice and juicy gyōza. Many years of slow-

paced island cooking, kids growing up at the counter, and locals visiting

week after week have all helped to perfect the product.

It’s on the way to Miyako-jima Onsen near the intersection of Rtes 78 and

194.

Mojanopan

BAKERY

$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; モジャのパン; %090-3977-6778; 20 Higashi-Nakasone, Hirara; bread

¥160-300, coffee ¥250-450; h11am-3pm or until sold out Tue-Sat)

If you couldn’t see this hole-in-the-wall bakery, you’d smell it. It’s unique

for its owner’s commitment to selling fresh bread throughout its opening

hours. This means you’ll find fresh rolls – plain (which are nothing but),

black sesame, walnut and a variety of other flavours – hot out of the oven

from opening time until closing.

o Pōcha Tatsuya

IZAKAYA

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ぽうちゃたつや; %0980-73-3931; 275 Nishizato, Hirara; small plates

¥560-1180; h6.30-11.30pm Wed-Mon)

This hospitable izakaya is a warm, efficient bastion of Miyakojima quality,

serving fresh, thoughtfully prepared local fare such as kobushimeyawaraka-

ni (steamed cuttlefish; ¥730) and sūchiki (vinegared pork with bitter melon;

¥630). Its justified popularity necessitates reserving ahead. Some Japanese

skills are helpful here, as the specials change often, but requesting omakase

(chef’s choice) will result in a succession of regional delights.

Nanraku

IZAKAYA

$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 南楽; %0980-73-1855; Asahi Bldg 1F, 568 Nishizato, Hirara; small plates

¥650-1480; h6pm-midnight, closed irregularly)

Nanraku is Miyako-jima embodied in an izakaya – an earthy, convivial

atmosphere, with ingredients sourced from local bounty. Chef Nanraku-san

is a local boy, and his celebration of the island’s cuisine and its provenance

shines through in what he plates. He’s famous for the nekomanma ( donburi

with bonito and umibudō). Splurge on Miyako beef sashimi (¥3500 for a

small dish for two).

This is an excellent place for osusume (recommendation) – name your

budget and food preferences.

o Miyako-jima Cafe Karakara

CAFE

(宮古島のカフェカラカラ; MAP ; %0980-73-8385; 130 Ōura, Hirara)

Stop in to pay a visit to the inimitable and delightful Mr and Mrs Yamashita,

who built this fabulously atmospheric sea-shanty cafe on the road to

Ikemajima, with their own love and gumption. Be sure to have a bowl of the

special Miyako curry! The cafe is a few kilometres from gorgeous

Sunayama Beach.

8 Information

Miyakojima Tourism Association (宮古島観光協会; MAP ; %0980-73-1881;

www.miyako-guide.net; 187-2 Nishizato; h9am-6pm) Based opposite the Miyakojima

City Hall, also operates an information desk in the arrivals hall of

Miyakojima Airport, where you can pick up one of several local sightseeing-

related publications. Travellers who can read Japanese should also grab a

copy of the Japanese-language versions of the tourist literature and maps,

which have more detailed listings.

Irabu-jima & Shimoji-jima 伊良部・下地島

Not much happens on Irabu-jima (伊良部島) and Shimoji-jima (下地島)

aside from sugarcane cultivation and the ‘touch-and-go’ (landing and

immediate take-off) exercises by ANA pilots. These islands are blessed with

uncrowded beaches and a snail-paced vibe that make them worth a look-see:

both now have easy road links from Miyakojima city.

1 Sights

Tōri-ike

CAVE

(通り池; MAP ; Sawata, Irabu)

An intriguing site for a stroll or dive is this pair of seawater pools on the

west coast of Shimojijima, known by locals as ‘dragon’s eyes’ – these are

actually sinkholes in the coral that formed the island.

Toguchi-no-hama

BEACH

(渡口の浜; MAP ; 1352-16 Irabu)

On Irabujima’s west coast, this is the island’s best swimming beach, with

showers, toilets and the delightful Blue Turtle bar-restaurant.

Nakanoshima Beach

BEACH

(中の島ビーチ; MAP ; Shimoji-jima, Irabu)

The best snorkelling beach on Shimoji and Irabu, Nakanoshima Beach is

protected by a high-walled bay on the west coast of Shimojijima. You’ll

greatly enhance your experience by making your visit early in the morning,

around lunchtime or in lower seasons, when buses and boats aren’t

descending on the beach all at once. Look for the sign reading ‘Nakano

Island The Beach’.

4 Sleeping & Eating

There’s not much by way of dining options, save for a handful of daytime-

only cafes on each of the islands, but you’ll always find something open. It’s

a good idea to pack some snacks and sandwiches in Miyakojima city in

preparation for a pop-up beach picnic should you find yourself peckish at a

picturesque spot.

Guesthouse Nesou

GUESTHOUSE

$$

(ゲストハウスねそう; MAP ; %0980-78-3380; 1436-1 Irabu; dm/s/d ¥2800/4000/6000,

breakfast ¥300)

A few blocks inland from the beach, this tiny guesthouse, formerly known as

‘Birafuyaa’, is run by a welcoming, clued-in couple who have created a kind

of a social hub for local musicians and artists and visiting free spirits from

around the globe. They offer inexpensive bike rental, snorkelling tours,

sunset beers on the rooftop patio and an all-around serene vibe.

Casa de Hamaca

GUESTHOUSE

$$

(カサ・デ・アマカ; MAP ; %080-3277-8941; www.casadehamaca.com; 621-3 Kuninaka; s/d

without bathroom ¥3500/6300; hclosed Jan-Mar; paW)

If you’re seeking something out of the ordinary, opt to stay at the singular,

utterly delightful Casa de Hamaca. Run by Japanese runner and world

traveller Sekiyama Tadashi, this is probably the only accommodation in

Japan outfitted solely with hammocks and with a Spanishspeaking

proprietor. The inn is not suitable for families, which creates a more relaxed,

kid-free vibe.

o Soraniwa

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$

(そらにわ; MAP ; %0980-74-5528; www.soraniwa.org; 721-1 Irabu-azairabu; s incl breakfast/2

meals from ¥15,000/19,500; pai)

For a secluded and romantic experience, head to Soraniwa on the south

coast. This small, stylish cafe-hotel is run by a young couple transplanted

from the ‘mainland’. The restaurant (open 11.30am to 6pm Friday to

Tuesday; lunch ¥950 to ¥1400) uses local, organic ingredients, while the

intimate, modern hotel features sumptuous beds, shelves made from

repurposed wood and a rooftop Jacuzzi looking out to the sea.

The private ‘side.B sora’ condo offers 100 sq metres of refined luxury

including an overflow pool off the balcony. Shhh…don’t tell everyone, but

it’s quite reasonably priced. Check the website for details.

o Blue Turtle

BISTRO

$$

(%0980-74-5333; www.blueturtle.jp; 1352-16 Irabu; mains ¥1200-2800)

This blingy little bistro gets bonus points for its delightfully secluded

location, resting atop a shaded grassy knoll on a white-sand beach, whose

turquoise waters glimmer seductively while you sip your cocktail at the

rooftop bar. Romantics might bypass the bar to dine on well-presented

European and Japanese fare in the stylish air-conditioned bistro.

YAEYAMA ISLANDS 八重山諸島

At the far southwestern end of the Southwest Islands are the gorgeous

Yaeyama Islands (八重山諸島; Yaeyama-shotō), which include the main

islands of Ishigaki-jima and Iriomote-jima as well as a spread of 17 isles.

Located near the Tropic of Cancer, they are renowned for their lovely

beaches, superb diving and lush landscapes.

The Yaeyama Islands are one of the most popular destinations in the

Southwest Islands. They offer Japan’s best snorkelling and diving, and some

of the country’s last intact subtropical jungles and mangrove swamps (both

on Iriomote-jima). Perhaps the best feature of the Yaeyamas is their variety

and the ease with which you can explore them: plentiful ferry services run

between Ishigaki city and nearby islands such as Iriomote-jima and

Taketomi-jima, and you can easily explore three or four islands in one trip.

Yaeyama Islands

1 Top Sights

1 Ida-no-hama

A4

2 Kabira Bay

F2

3 Sunset Beach

H1

1 Sights

4 Barasu-tō

B3

5 Fusaki Beach Aqua Garden

F4

6 Hoshisuna-no-hama

B3

7 Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center

C4

8 Kaiji-hama

A2

9 Kanpire-no-taki

B4

10 Kondoi Beach

A1

11 Mariyudō-no-taki

B4

12 Nagomi-no-tō

A1

13 Pinaisāra-no-taki

B3

14 Tsuki-ga-hama

B3

15 Yonehara Beach

F3

2 Activities, Courses & Tours

16 Club Med Kabira Beach Visitor Pass

F2

17 Diving School Umicoza

F3

18 Iriomote Osanpo Kibun

B3

19 Kabira Ishizaki Manta Scramble

F2

20 Urauchi-gawa Kankō

B3

4 Sleeping

21 Art Hotel Isghigaki

F4

Coral Garden

(see 6)

22 Hoshinoya Taketomi-jima

B2

23 Iriwa

F2

24 Irumote-sō

B3

25 Takana Ryokan

B1

26 Tsundara Beach Retreat

G2

5 Eating

27 Densā Shokudō

B3

Kitchen Inaba

(see 14)

Oishiisā-gu

(see 23)

28 Soba-dokoro Takenoko

A1

7 Shopping

29 Minsā Kōgeikan

F4

8 Transport

30 Ōhara Port

C5

31 Taketomi Higashi-ko

B1

Uehara Port

(see 27)

Yamaneko Rentacar

(see 24)

Ishigaki-jima 石垣島

%0980 / POP 48,816

Blessed with excellent beaches and brilliant dive sites, Ishigaki-jima (石垣

島) also possesses an attractive, low-lying geography that invites long drives

and day hikes. Located 100km southwest of Miyako-jima, Ishigaki is the

most populated and developed island in the Yaeyama group and embodies

tropical Japan through and through.

Ishigaki City

1 Sights

1 Ishigaki City Yaeyama Museum

D3

4 Sleeping

2 Rakutenya

C2

5 Eating

3 Ishigakijima Village

C3

4 Kamal Indian Nepal Food

A1

5 Mori-no-Kokage

D2

6 Shima-no-tabemonoya Paikaji

C3

6 Drinking & Nightlife

7 Cafe Taniwha

D2

8 Transport

8 Anei Kankō

C3

9 Ishigaki Bus Terminal

C3

10 Ishigaki Rentacar

C3

11 Ishigaki-jima Rittō Ferry Terminal

C3

12 Yaeyama Kankō Ferry

C3

1 Sights

Ishigaki city (石垣市) occupies the southwestern corner of the island. You’ll

find most of the action in the two shopping arcades, known as Euglena Mall

(ユーグレナモール), which run parallel to the main street, Shiyakusho-

dōri. The city is easily walkable; while it can be explored in an hour or two,

it’s worth spending a half-day here to get a sense of the local identity.

The sea around Ishigaki-jima is famous among the Japanese diving

community for its large schools of manta rays, particularly from June to

October. Some of the best beaches on the island are found on the west coast.

A series of roads branch out from Ishigaki city and head along the

coastline and into the interior. There are several settlements near the coast,

while most of the interior is mountains and farmland.

o Sunset Beach

BEACH

( MAP ; サンセットビーチ; www.i-sb.jp)

At the north end of the island, on the west coast, you will find this long strip

of sand with a bit of offshore reef. As the name implies, this is one of the

island’s best spots to watch the sun set into the East China Sea. Shower and

toilet facilities are also located here.

o Kabira Bay

BEACH

( MAP ; 川平湾)

Kabira-wan is a sheltered bay with white-sand shores and a couple of

interesting clumplike islets offshore. Swimming is not allowed in the bay, as

pearls are cultivated here, but there’s no shortage of glass-bottomed boats

offering a look at the reef life below.

Fusaki Beach Aqua Garden

BEACH

( MAP ; フサキビーチアクアガーデン; %0980-88-7000; www.fusaki.com/english; 1625

Arakawa; from ¥2000)

Nonguests of the adjacent resort can pay to enter this massive ‘aqua garden’

complex with a beachfront pool, bar-restaurant, yoga lessons and a huge

range of equipment rental options, from snorkels to stand-up paddleboards.

Visitors can swim in the beach section without charge, though you may feel

obliged to rent something from the vendors.

Yonehara Beach

BEACH

( MAP ; 米原海岸)

On the north coast along Rte 79, Yonehara Beach is a decent sand beach

with a good bit of reef offshore. Hire snorkel gear (¥1000) at any of the

shops along the main road, where you’ll also find plentiful cafes. Be aware

that the currents can be strong, so it’s not a great choice for children or weak

swimmers.

Ishigaki City Yaeyama Museum

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 石垣市立八重山博物館; %0980-82-4712; 4-1 Tonoshiro; ¥200; h9am-5pm Tue-

Sun)

This modest museum has exhibits on the culture and history of the island,

which are quite well presented with English explanations. Notable among

the more typical cultural artefacts: a few informational pages about some of

Japan’s oldest human remains (estimated, using carbon dating, to be 24,000

years old), discovered on Ishigaki in 2011 during construction of the new

airport.

2 Activities

Diving School Umicoza

DIVING

( MAP ; 海講座; %0980-88-2434; www.umicoza.com; 1287-97 Kabira; 1/2 dives with equipment

rental ¥9450/12,600; h8am-6pm)

At Kabirabased Umicoza, all the dive guides speak English, and the shop

itself has a longrunning reputation for professionalism and reliability.

Club Med Kabira Beach Visitor Pass

OUTDOORS

( MAP ; %0980-84-4600; www.clubmed.ca/r/Kabira-Ishigaki/y; Kabira 1; day/night passes from

¥14,000)

While joining Club Med, the international fun-for-young-folks resort group,

isn’t for everyone, taking a day (11am to 6pm) or night (6pm to midnight) to

join the fun and enjoy this excellent resort’s pool, private beach and

extensive drinking and dining facilities might be music to the ears of many.

The deal is kept fairly hush-hush…enquire at the front desk. Passes include

facilities use, food and limited beverages.

Kabira Ishizaki Manta Scramble

DIVING

( MAP )

The most popular dive spot on Ishigaki-jima is Manta Scramble, off the

coast of Kabira Ishizaki. Although you’ll probably be sharing it with a fair

number of dive boats, you’re almost guaranteed to see a manta (or four) in

season. There are a number of dive shops on Ishigaki.

4 Sleeping

Rakutenya

GUESTHOUSE

$

( MAP ; 楽天屋; %0980-83-8713; www3.big.or.jp/~erm8p. 3gi; 291 Ōkawa; r per person without bathroom ¥3600; paiW)

This quaint guesthouse is two blocks north of the shopping arcades in

Ishigaki city, and has attractive Western- and Japanese-style rooms in a

couple of rickety old wooden houses. The managers are a friendly Japanese

couple who speak some English and are a fantastic source of local

information.

Iriwa

GUESTHOUSE

$$

( MAP ; イリワ; %0980-88-2563; http://iriwa.org; 599 Kabira; dm ¥2700, s/d from ¥7000/7600; paiW)

Just above Kabira-wan on the north coast, Iriwa is a comfortable guesthouse

with dorm beds, two large private rooms, a small self-contained cottage and

two converted trailers, all warmly decorated with a Hawaiian aesthetic. All

but one trailer share bathroom facilities. It’s run by a super-chilled, friendly

young Korean-Japanese couple who like to share meals and snorkelling

expeditions with guests.

The main house has a communal lounge room and spacious, sunny

kitchen – the roof, the highest point in Kabira village, offers excellent views

of the sea during the day and stars at night.

o Art Hotel Ishigaki

HOTEL

$$$

(アートホテル石垣; MAP ; %0980-83-3311; www.art-ishigakijima.com; 559 Okawa; s/d from

¥14,800/18,900; paW)

Formerly the Hotel Nikkō Yaeyama, this thoroughly renovated and

rebranded hilltop complex, though far from the shoreline, makes an excellent

choice for its range of facilities, including a communal bathhouse (which can

be visited by day guests between 4.30pm and 10pm for ¥1600) and an

outdoor pool loved by kids and adults alike. The good-sized rooms are fresh

and clean, and most have excellent views.

Tsundara Beach Retreat

APARTMENT

$$$

( MAP ; つんだらビーチ・リトリート; %0980-89-2765, 090-7587-2029;

www.tsundarabeach.com; 895-2 Nosoko; d/tr/q incl breakfast ¥40,000/50,000/60,000; paW) Truly a retreat, this spacious, fully equipped beach house affords privacy and

peace in beautiful abundance. On Ishigaki’s sparsely populated northern

peninsula, the house sits on a grassy 1-hectare property with a vegetable

garden, trails to the gorgeous private beach and an enormous tepee.

The pacifist American owners (who speak fluent Japanese and live on the

premises) can organise ecotours such as jungle zip lining and are extremely

knowledgeable about Ishigaki. Tsundara is a stellar refuge for families,

honeymooners or anyone wishing for quiet solitude.

5 Eating & Drinking

Kamal Indian Nepal Food

INDIAN

$

( MAP ; %080-3753-1313; 2-6-31 Hamazakicho; dishes ¥600-1050, sets from ¥1200; h11am-11pm;

v)

There’s lots to love about this spotless restaurant serving Indian and Nepali

cuisine, from what appears to have been a former gas stand or car-rental

office. Meals are authentic and full of flavour and a variety of set-menu

options offer excellent value. Vegetarian friendly!

Oishiisā-gu

NOODLES

$

( MAP ; おいシーサー遇; %0980-88-2233; 906-1 Kabira; meals ¥600-1050; h11am-5pm,

summer to 7pm; p)

This sunlit soba place in Kabira serves local dishes like chilled yomogi-soba

(mugwort soba) served in a conch shell, or tebichi soba (Okinawan soba

topped with stewed pork trotters). Even better, follow your lunch with

homemade gelato in flavours like Ishigaki beer, gōyā or black sesame and

soybean.

o Shima-no-tabemonoya Paikaji

IZAKAYA

$$

( MAP ; 島の食べものや 南風; %0980-82-6027; 219 Ōkawa; small plates ¥580-1470; h5pm-

midnight Mon-Sat)

This Ishigaki city favourite serves all the Okinawan and Yaeyama standards.

The boisterous atmosphere and kitchen get top marks, although smokers

detract from the experience. Try the ikasumi chahan (squid-ink fried rice;

¥700), gōyā champurū (¥750) or sashimi moriawase (sashimi assortment;

depending on size ¥750/1300/1800). Look for the traditional front, with

coral around the entryway and a red-and-white sign.

Ishigakijima Village

JAPANESE

$$

( MAP ; 石垣島ヴィレッジ; %0980-87-0708; 8-9 Misaki-chō; meals ¥400-2000; h11am-

10pm, individual shop hours vary)

A contemporary version of the old-school dining yokochō (alleys) ferreted

away in Japanese cities, this new restaurant complex is the perfect place to

dine when feeling indecisive. Tiny eateries, each with some culinary

speciality – be it Ishigaki beef, izakaya eats or Italian food – all vie for your

attention here. Friendly restaurateurs and locals are the icing on the cake.

Mori-no-Kokage

IZAKAYA

$$

( MAP ; 森のこかげ; %0980-83-7933; www.morinokokage.net; 199 Ōkawa; dishes ¥640-1570; h5pm-midnight Fri-Wed)

This little Ishigaki city izakaya is a friendly refuge true to its name, which

means ‘the shade of the forest’. Local treats ar e sliced steak of Ishigaki beef

(¥1280) and the microbrew ishigaki-jima-zake (¥500). Look for the plants

and tree trunks outside, and meet some friendly locals under the canopy of

an ersatz forest.

Cafe Taniwha

CAFE

( MAP ; カフェたにふぁ; %0980-88-6352; http://youkoso.cafe-taniwha.com; 188 Ōkawa; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat)

You can’t do better than Cafe Taniwha as a first stop in Ishigaki. Owners and

citizens of the world, Kuri and Fusa have created a snug, welcoming space

for local eccentrics and international travellers. They sometimes host live

music, and it’s a great place to start your evening or park yourself for the

duration.

7 Shopping

Minsā Kōgeikan

ART

( MAP ; みんさー工芸館; %0980-82-3473; www.minsah.co.jp; 909 Tonoshiro; h9am-6pm) Minsā Kōgeikan is a weaving workshop and showroom with exhibits on

Yaeyama Islands textiles. You can also try your hand at weaving a coaster

(¥1500); you’ll need to reserve ahead by phone. The building is located

between the Ishigaki city centre and the airport, and can be reached via the

airport bus (there’s a Minsā Kōgeikan stop).

8 Information

Ishigaki-jima Tourism Association (石垣市観光協会; MAP ; %0980-82-2809;

Ishigaki-shi Shōkō Kaikan 1F; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Produces an English-language

Yaeyama Islands brochure and operates a small-but-helpful information

counter in the airport arrivals hall. Japanese readers find the Ishigaki Town

Guide and the Yaeyama Navi.

Ishigaki-jima Rittō Ferry Terminal. Offers an array of publications and other

material.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR

Painushima Ishigaki Airport (南ぬ島石垣空港; MAP ; %0980-87-0468;

www.ishigakiairport.co.jp; h7.30am-9pm) has direct flights to/from Tokyo’s Narita Airport (Vanilla Air) and Haneda Airport (JTA/ANA), Osaka’s Kansai

International Airport (JTA/ANA/Peach Airlines), Naha (JTA/ANA),

Miyako-jima (RAC/ANA) and Yonaguni-jima (RAC).

BOAT

Ishigaki-jima Rittō Ferry Terminal ( MAP ; 石垣港離島ターミナル; %0980-

82-0043; 1 Misaki) serves islands including Iriomote-jima, Kohama-jima,

Taketomi-jima and Hateruma-jima. Departures are frequent enough that you

can usually just turn up in the morning and hop on the next ferry departing

for your intended destination (except during the summer high season). To get

to the ferry terminal, head southwest along the waterfront from the 730

Intersection.

8 Getting Around

The bus terminal ( MAP ; Misaki-cho) is across the road from the ferry terminal

in Ishigaki city. Several buses an hour go to the airport (¥540, 45 minutes).

A few daily buses go to Kabira-wan (¥680, 50 minutes) and Yonehara Beach

(¥820, one hour). One-/five-day (¥1000/2000) bus passes are available for

purchase directly from the driver. Rental cars, scooters and bicycles are

readily available at shops throughout the city centre. If you’re comfortable

on a scooter, it’s a scenic four- to five-hour cruise around the island, though

you should plan for longer if you want to spend some time relaxing on the

island’s beaches.

Gogoro Go Share (%0980-87-5562; www.ridegoshare.jp/en; per hr from ¥1000) is a new and unique-to-Ishigaki ride-share system for eco-scooters that are 100%

battery operated. There are stations at which to drop-off or recharge scooters

dotted around the island. To see if it’s right for you, stop into any Gogoro

station that you pass for the explanatory tour: there’s also a location at the

ferry terminal. Look out for the cyan-blue bikes.

Ishigaki Rentacar ( MAP ; 石垣島レンタカー; %0980-82-8840; 25 Ōkawa; h8am-

7pm) is located in the Ishigaki city centre and has reasonable rates.

Iriomote-jima 西表島

%0980 / POP 2402

Although only 20km west of Ishigaki-jima, Iriomote-jima (西表島) could

easily qualify as Japan’s last frontier. Dense jungles and mangrove swamp

blanket more than 90% of the island, and it’s fringed by some of the most

beautiful coral reefs in Japan. If you’re super-lucky, you may spot one of the

island’s rare yamaneko, a nocturnal and rarely seen wildcat (they’re most

often seen crossing the road at night, so drive carefully).

Several rivers penetrate far into the lush interior of the island and these

can be explored by riverboat or kayak. Add to the mix sun-drenched beaches

and spectacular diving and snorkelling, and it’s easy to see why Iriomote-

jima is one of the best destinations in Japan for nature lovers. That said, if

you’re not an avid explorer of the great outdoors, you’re likely to find the

slow decline of Iriomote’s tourist infrastructure (what little there is)

somewhat disappointing.

1 Sights & Activities

Much of the brilliant coral fringing Iriomote’s shores is accessible to

proficient snorkellers. Most of the offshore dive sites around Iriomote are

served by dive operators based on Ishigaki.

One spot worth noting is Barasu-tō ( MAP ; バラス島) – an islet formed

entirely of bits of broken coral – located between Iriomote-jima and

Hatoma-jima; the reefs nearby are good for calm days.

o Ida-no-hama

BEACH

( MAP ; イダの浜)

From Shirahama, at the western end of the north coast road, there are four

daily boats (¥500) to the isolated settlement of Funauki. Once there, it’s a

mere 10-minute walk on to the absolutely gorgeous Ida-no-hama.

Hoshisuna-no-hama

BEACH

( MAP ; 星砂の浜, Star Sand Beach)

If you’re looking to do a bit of snorkelling, head to this beach on the

northwestern tip of the island. The beach is named after its hoshisuna (star

sand), which actually consists of the dried skeletons of marine protozoa.

Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center

MUSEUM

( MAP ; 西表野生生物保護センター; %0980-85-5581; Komi Taketomi; h10am-4pm Tue-

Sun, closed noon-1pm) F

If you are at all intrigued by the yamaneko (Iriomote’s endemic wildcat),

whose critically endangered population hovers around 100, it’s worth

stopping by this small natural-history centre. Exhibits include English

signage, and the museum also screens a short documentary in Japanese about

the yamaneko and its population decline, due to hazards like human refuse

and fast cars.

Pinaisāra-no-taki

WATERFALL

( MAP ; ピナイサーラの滝)

At the back of a mangrove-lined bay called Funaura-wan, a few kilometres

east of Uehara, you can make out the lovely Pinaisāra-no-taki, Okinawa’s

highest waterfall at 55m. When the tide is right, you can paddle a kayak

across the shallow lagoon and then follow the Hinai-gawa (on the left) to the

base of the falls.

The short Māre-gawa (on the right) meets a trail where it narrows. This

climbs to the top of the falls, from where there are superb views down to the

coast. From the river, walk inland until you come to a pumping station, then

turn around and take the right fork in the path. The walk takes less than two

hours, and the river is great for a cooling dip.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a tour company that will rent you a

kayak without requiring you to join a guided tour (half-/full days cost about

¥6000/10,000).

Tsuki-ga-hama

BEACH

( MAP ; 月ヶ浜, Moon Beach)

The best swimming beach on the island is Tsuki-ga-hama, a crescent-shaped

yellow-sand beach at the mouth of the Urauchi-gawa on the north coast.

HIKING ON IRIOMOTE-JIMA

Iriomote has some great hikes, but do not head off into the jungle interior without registering

with the police: the trails in the interior are hard to follow – many people have become lost and

required rescue. We strongly suggest that you stick to well-marked tracks like the ones along

the Urauchi-gawa, or arrange a guide through your accommodation (from ¥10,000).

T Tours

Iriomote’s number-one attraction is a boat trip up the Urauchi-gawa (浦内

川), a winding brown river reminiscent of a tiny stretch of the Amazon. This

is a great, accessible way to get a feel for Iriomote’s inner-island wildness.

Iriomote Osanpo Kibun

KAYAKING

( MAP ; 西表おさんぽ気分; %0980-84-8178; www.iriomote-osanpo.com; half/full-day kayaking & trekking tours from ¥6000/10,000)

Choose from trekking, kayaking and snorkelling tours with this reliable

outfit, all with an English-speaking guide who will illuminate your

experience with local knowledge. This is the easiest way to check out

Pinaisāra-no-taki and Iriomote’s other natural attractions on land and water.

Tour prices normally include lunch and transfers.

Urauchi-gawa Kankō

TOURS

( MAP ; 浦内川観光; %0980-85-6154; www.urauchigawa.com; adult/child river tours ¥1800/900, full-day trekking & kayak tours ¥8400)

From the river’s mouth, Urauchi-gawa Kankō runs boat tours 8km up the

river (round trip ¥1800, 30 minutes each way, multiple departures daily

between 9.30am and 3.30pm). At the 8km point, the boat docks and you can

walk a further 2km to the scenic waterfalls of Mariyudō-no-taki ( MAP ; マリ

ユドゥの滝), from where another 200m brings you to another waterfall,

Kanpire-no-taki ( MAP ; カンピレーの滝).

The walk from the dock to Kanpire-notaki and back takes around two

hours. You can also opt to just take the boat trip to the dock and back. The

pier (浦内川遊覧船乗場) is about 6km west of Uehara; river trips don’t

require reservations, but the full-day kayaking trips do.

4 Sleeping

Iriomote-jima’s accommodation is generally quite basic and spread out

around the island. Most places will send a car to pick you up from the ferry

terminal if you let them know what time you will be arriving.

Kanpira-sō

MINSHUKU

$

(カンピラ荘; %0980-85-6508; www.kanpira.com; 545 Uehara; r per person incl breakfast

with/without bathroom from ¥4700/3700; paW)

Two minutes’ walk from the ferry landing in Uehara, this hospitable

minshuku has basic Japanese-style rooms and an informative manager who

produces extraordinarily good bilingual maps of the island (although little

English is spoken here). From Uehara Port, turn right on the main road;

you’ll soon see it on the right.

Irumote-sō

HOSTEL

$

( MAP ; いるもて荘; %0980-85-6255; www.ishigaki.com/irumote; 870-95 Uehara; dm dinner

from ¥5300/4000, r per person with/without dinner ¥7250/5900; paiW)

Between Uehara Port (上原港) and Funaura Port (船浦港), this peaceful

hillside hostel has comfortable dorms and simple Japanese-style private

rooms. Meals are served in the large communal dining room. We

recommend calling for a pick-up before you arrive as it’s hard to find.

Discounts available for Hostelling International members.

Coral Garden

PENSION

$$

( MAP ; コーラルガーデン; %0980-85-6027; 289-17 Uehara; s/d incl breakfast from

¥8500/13,000; hclosed Dec-Feb; paiWs)

A five-minute drive from Uehara, this beachside pension has simple

Japanese- and Western-style rooms overlooking Hoshisuna-no-hama. It has a

small pool, and a path leading down to the beach, which is a great spot for

snorkelling. Call ahead for pick-up from the port.

5 Eating

With few restaurants on the island, most travellers’ only option is to take

meals at their accommodation (or self-cater).

Densā Shokudō

OKINAWAN

$

( MAP ; デンサー食堂; %0980-85-6453; www.densa-syokudo.com; 558 Uehara; meals ¥650-

950; h11.30am-6pm Thu-Mon, to 4pm Tue)

This comfy daytime eatery serves up Okinawan favourites, like gōyā

champurū teishoku (¥850) and Yaeyama soba (¥500), in a homely dining

room with an outdoor terrace. Browse a selection of manga while you wait.

It’s directly across the road once you head out of the Uehara Port.

Laugh La Garden

OKINAWAN

$

(ラフラガーデン; %0980-85-7088; 2nd fl, 550-1 Uehara; dishes ¥900; h11.30am-2pm & 6-

9pm Fri-Wed)

Near the road from Uehara Port and beside the petrol station, this relaxed

caferestaurant has sets such as ishigakibutano-misokatsu teishoku (miso-

seasoned Ishigaki pork cutlets; ¥950) and Iriomote delicacies such as

inoshishi-sashimi (wild boar sashimi; ¥600).

Kitchen Inaba

OKINAWAN

$$

( MAP ; キッチンイナバ; %0980-84-8164; www.kitcheninaba.com; 742-6 Uehara; dishes

¥400-1800; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-8.30pm; pa)

In the Tsuki-ga-hama area, the relatively upmarket Kitchen Inaba serves the

usual local specialities in a spot where no other dining options exist. It’s a

lovely place for a meal if you’re spending a day at the beach and are reliant

on public transport; consider making reservations for the sometimes

crowded dinner hours.

8 Getting There & Away

Yaeyama Kankō Ferry ( MAP ; 八重山観光フェリー; %0980-82-5010;

www.yaeyama.co.jp), Ishigaki Dream Kankō (石垣島ドリーム観光; %0980-84-

3178; www.ishigaki-dream.co.jp) and Anei Kankō ( MAP ; 安栄観光; %0980-83-0055;

www.aneikankou.co.jp) operate ferries between Ishigaki city (on Ishigakijima) and

Iriomote-jima. Ferries from Ishigaki sail to/from two main ports on Iriomote:

Uehara Port ( MAP ; 上原港), one hour, up to 20 daily, convenient for most

destinations; and Ōhara Port ( MAP ; 大原港), 40 minutes, up to 27 daily.

Strong north winds will require Uehara-bound ferries to travel the safer route

to Ōhara; in these cases, buses at the port will shuttle passengers to Uehara

for free.

8 Getting Around

Iriomote-jima has a 58km-long perimeter road that runs about halfway

around the coast. No roads run into the unspoiled interior.

Six to nine buses daily run between Ōhara Port and Shirahama (¥1240, 1½

hours); raise your hand to get on anywhere. There’s a ‘free pass’ for buses

(one-/three-day passes ¥1030/1540) that also gives you 10% off attractions

such as the Urauchi-gawa cruise.

For self-driving, try Yamaneko Rentacar ( MAP ; やまねこレンタカー;

%0980-85-6111; 201-209 Haemi; h8am-6pm), but don’t forget your International

Driving Permit. Otherwise, it’s likely you’ll be confronted by a trio of staff

from rival car-rental companies brandishing placards as you arrive off the

ferry.

Most of the island’s accommodation also rents out bicycles to guests.

Taketomi-jima 竹富島

%0980 / POP 361

A mere 15-minute boat ride from Ishigakijima, the tiny island of Taketomi-

jima (竹富島) is a living museum of Ryūkyū culture. Centred on a flower-

decorated village of traditional houses complete with red kawara (tiled)

roofs, coral walls and shiisā statues, Taketomi is a breath of fresh air if

you’re suffering from an overdose of modern Japan.

In order to preserve the island’s historical ambience, residents have joined

together to ban some signs of modernism. The island is criss-crossed by

crushed-coral roads bedecked with bougainvillea and is free of chain

convenience stores.

While Taketomi is besieged by Japanese day trippers in the busy summer

months, the island remains blissfully quiet at night. This is true even in

summer, as the island offers little in the way of after-dark entertainment.

Taketomi truly weaves its spell after the sun dips below the horizon.

1 Sights

Ferries arrive at the small port on the northeast corner of the island, while

Taketomi village is located in the centre of the island.

Kaiji-hama

BEACH

( MAP ; カイジ浜; 皆治浜)

This lovely stretch of beach is on the southwest coast, also happens to be the

main hoshisuna (star sand) hunting ground. If you don’t arrive bearing some

kind of container for the minuscule treasures, there’s usually a stall here

selling small vials of star sand.

Kondoi Beach

BEACH

( MAP ; コンドイビーチ)

Kondoi Beach, on the west coast, offers the best swimming on the island. At

the entrance to the beach you’ll find bike parking, picnic tables and toilets.

Nagomi-no-tō

VIEWPOINT

( MAP ; なごみの塔; h24hr) F

Roughly in the centre of the village, this modest lookout tower has good

views over the red-tiled roofs of the pancake-flat island.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Many of the traditional houses around the island are Japanese-style ryokan.

Note that Taketomi fills up quickly in the summer, so be sure to book ahead

if you plan to stay overnight.

Takana Ryokan

RYOKAN

$$

( MAP ; 高那旅館; %0980-85-2151; www.kit.hi-ho.ne.jp/hayasaka-my; 499 Taketomi; dm with/without meals ¥5500/4000, r per person incl meals from ¥8800; a)

Opposite the tiny post office, Takana consists of a basic youth hostel and an

attached upmarket ryokan. Simple Western-style dorms in the youth hostel

are a great option if you’re on a budget, though the Japanese-style tatami

rooms in the ryokan are a bit more comfortable.

Hoshinoya Taketomi-jima

LUXURY HOTEL

$$$

( MAP ; 星のや竹富島; %0980-84-5888; www.hoshinoya.com; Taketomi; d from ¥42,000; pW) This sumptuous offering from the renowned team at luxury brand Hoshinoya

certainly delivers. The best part about these decadent digs is that after dark

it’s more blissfully quiet and peaceful than you probably ever thought

possible in Japan.

Soba-dokoro Takenoko

NOODLES

$

( MAP ; そば処竹の子; %0980-85-2251; 101-1 Taketomi; dishes ¥600-900; h10.30am-4pm &

7-9pm)

This tiny restaurant on the northwest side of the village (look for the blue

banner and the umbrellas) serves up sōki-soba (¥800) and Yaeyama soba

(¥600) in amazing broth.

8 Information

Tourist literature is available from stands in the ferry terminal (竹富東港;

MAP ).

8 Getting There & Around

Yaeyama Kankō Ferry and Anei Kankō operate ferries between Ishigaki city

(on Ishigaki-jima) and Taketomi-jima (¥600, 10 minutes, up to 45 daily).

Since the island is only 3km long and 2km wide, it is easily explored on

foot or by bicycle. An assortment of bike-rental outfits meet arriving ferries

at the port and run free shuttles between their shops and the port. The going

rate for bike rentals is ¥300 per hour or ¥1500 for the day.

Hateruma-jima 波照間島

%0980 / POP 528

Forty-five kilometres south of Iriomote-jima is the tiny islet of Hateruma-

jima (波照間島), Japan’s southernmost inhabited island. Just 15km around,

Hateruma-jima has a couple of beauteous beaches and a seriously laid-back

vibe. If you come this far, plan to stay a night to get off the grid and get back

to nature with the friendly locals; you’ll be glad you did.

Ferries arrive at the small port on the northwest corner of the island, while

Hateruma village is in the centre.

1 Sights

Japan’s Southernmost Point

LANDMARK

(日本最南端の碑)

Cycling along roads criss-crossing fields of sugar cane and tracing

kilometres of unspoiled coastline – the southernmost point of Japan’s

southernmost inhabited island, feels appropriately far-flung once you’ve

arrived. There’s also a monument marking the spot, a popular locale for

photo ops.

Nishihama

BEACH

(ニシ浜)

Just to the west of the port is this perfect beach of snow-white sand with

some good coral offshore. Here you will find free public showers, toilets and

a camping ground.

Takanazaki

NATURAL FEATURE

(高那崎)

At the southeast corner of the island is this impressive 1km-long cliff of

Ryūkyū limestone, pounded by the Pacific Ocean. There’s a small

observatory here, and at the western end of the cliffs is a small monument

marking Japan’s southernmost point, an extremely popular photo spot for

Japanese visitors and a must-do if you’ve come all this way.

4 Sleeping & Eating

You can book meals at most minshuku; selfcaterers will find a few small

shops in town.

Pension Sainantan

PENSION

$$

(ペンション最南端; %0980-85-8686; www.pensionsainantan.wixsite.com/hateruma; 886-1

Hateruma; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8800; pai)

This airy pension offers Japanesestyle rooms with small terraces downstairs

and Western-style rooms with balconies upstairs. There’s also a rooftop

terrace with spectacular views of the beach and sea, and a handy shared

laundry. It’s located three minutes’ walk from Nishihama.

House Minami

MINSHUKU

$$

(ハウス美波; %0980-85-8050; http://minami85.my.coocan.jp; 3138 Hateruma; r from ¥8000;

paW)

East of the town centre, these fully equipped, detached quarters are arranged

around a cosy courtyard close to sugar-cane fields. Though the proprietors

don’t speak English, they are very foreignerfriendly.

8 Getting There & Around

Anei Kankō has three to four ferries a day from Ishigaki-jima to Hateruma-

jima (¥3090, one hour).

There is no public transport on the island. Rental bicycles and scooters are

readily available for hire near the port and from the local minshuku.

Yonaguni-jima 与那国島

%0980 / POP 1843

About 125km west of Ishigaki-jima and 110km east of Taiwan is the island

of Yonaguni-jima (与那国島), Japan’s westernmost inhabited island.

Renowned for its strong sake, small horses and marlin fishing, the island is

also home to the world’s largest moth, the Yonaguni Atlas, but most come

for the diving.

In 1985 a local diver discovered what appeared to be human-made ‘ruins’

off the south coast of the island, which came to be known as the Kaitei Iseki

(海底遺跡), or Yonaguni Monument. Some claim the ruins, which look like

the steps of a sunken pyramid, are the remains of a Pacific Atlantis, though

science suggests they’re the result of natural geological processes. Local

dive-school operators can get you down there.

Adding to the underwater allure are the large schools of hammerhead

sharks that frequent the waters off the west coast, making Yonaguni perhaps

the most famous single diving destination in Japan.

1 Sights

Yonaguni has an extremely rugged, wind- and sea-battered landscape, and

the coastline is marked with dramatic rock formations, much like those on

the east coast of Taiwan. The island’s most notable formations are off the

southeast coast.

The ferry port of Kubura (久部良) is at the island’s western extreme. The

main settlement is around the secondary port of Sonai (祖納) on the north

coast. In between, on the northwest coast, you’ll find the airport.

Irizaki

MONUMENT

(西崎)

Just as Hateruma-jima has a monument to mark Japan’s southernmost point,

Yonaguni-jima has one to mark the country’s westernmost point (日本最西

端の碑), here at Irizaki. If the weather is perfect, the mountains of Taiwan

are visible far over the sea (this happens only about twice a year – don’t be

disappointed if you can’t see them).

Tachigami-iwa

NATURAL FEATURE

(立神岩)

Literally ‘Standing-God Rock’ (although another name might come to

mind), this offshore obelisk can be viewed from several spots on the bluffs

above.

Agarizaki

VIEWPOINT

(東崎)

At the eastern tip of the island, wild Yonaguni horses graze in the pastures

leading out to the lighthouse at Agarizaki.

2 Activities

Yonaguni Diving Service

DIVING

(与那国ダイビングサービス; %0980-87-2658; www.yonaguniyds.com; 3984-3 Yonaguni;

2-dive boat trips ¥12,500, equipment rental ¥4600)

This dependable diving outfit on Yonaguni also runs the diver-friendly

Minshuku Yoshimaru-sō in Kubura.

Diving Service MARLIN

DIVING

(ダイビングサービスMARLIN; %0980-87-3365; www.yonagunidiving.com/iseki; 309

Yonaguni; 1/2 dives from ¥6500/11,000)

This reputable diving service is well versed in the mysteries of, and science

behind, the Kaitei Iseki rock formations discovered off Yonaguni in 1985

and can get you in the water to take a look for yourself. A variety of dive

courses and programs are available.

Yonaguni Fishing Co-operative

FISHING

(与那国町漁協; %in Japanese 0980-87-2803)

If you’re interested in trolling, boats in Yonaguni’s port town of Kubura can

be chartered from ¥60,000 a day.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Your best bet is to book meals at your accommodation; self-caterers will find

simple supermarkets in both Sonai and Kubura.

Minshuku Yoshimaru-sō

MINSHUKU

$

(民宿よしまる荘; %0980-87-2658; www.yonaguniyds.com/yoshimaru; 3984-3 Yonaguni; dm/r per person incl 2 meals ¥6000/7050; paW)

Up the hill from the port in Kubura, Yoshimaru-sō is ideal for divers, as the

friendly owners also operate the on-site and long-standing Yonaguni Diving

Service. Simple Japanese- and Western-style rooms have nice views of the

nearby port and spacious communal bathing facilities.

The real appeal of this minshuku is the owners’ local diving expertise.

Book ahead to get picked up at the airport or ferry terminal.

Villa Eden no Sachi

RYOKAN

$$

(Villa エデンの幸旅館; %0980-87-2450; 4022-253 Yonaguni; r per person incl 2 meals ¥9000;

paW)

Uphill to the north of Kubura’s port, this basic, no-frills ryokan offers a

convenient and restful base for exploring Yonaguni.

Island Cuisine Isun

IZAKAYA

$$

(島料理; %0980-87-2158; 4022 Yonaguni; dishes ¥500-1280; h11.30am-2pm & 6-11pm Thu-Tue)

In Kubura, this cosy izakaya is a local favourite. Though the menu is in

Japanese only, we recommend the kajiki (locally caught swordfish) sashimi

and the sansai (locally gathered wild mountain vegetables) salad. Ask a

Japanese speaker to make reservations for you, as it’s a small and popular

spot that fills up quickly.

Dōurai

IZAKAYA

$$

(どぅーらい; %0980-87-2909; 62 Yonaguni; dishes ¥450-1200; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

In the centre of Sonai is this delightful little Okinawan izakaya that serves

local specialities such as Ishigakigyū-sutēki (Ishigakistyle steak; ¥1300) and

rafutē (gingered, stewed pork; ¥700). It’s about 100m southeast of the post

office in Sonai. Look for the small blue sign by the door.

8 Information

Each post office in Kubura and Sonai has an international ATM.

Yonaguni Tourism Association (与那国町観光協会; %0980-87-2402; http://yona-

shoko.com/info/center; 437-17 Yonaguni; h11am-6pm) Maintains a counter at the airport,

which can help you find accommodation. You can also pick up the Japanese-

language Yonaguni-jima map and an English-language version that includes

set locations of the erstwhile TV drama Dr Koto’s Clinic, which was set on

Yonaguni.

For travel info online, be sure to check out www.welcome-yonaguni.jp.

8 Getting There & Away

RAC flies once daily between Yonaguni and Naha, and operates three flights

a day between Yonaguni and Ishigaki-jima.

Fukuyama Kaiun (福山海運; %in Ishigaki 0980-82-4962, in Yonaguni 0980-87-2555)

operates two ferries a week between Ishigaki-jima and Kubura Port on

Yonaguni (¥3550, four hours). Be warned: these are not for the weak

stomached.

8 Getting Around

There are public buses here, but they make only four trips around the island

per day, so the best transport is rental car or scooter. Yonehama Rentacar

(米浜レンタカー; %0980-87-2148; www.yonehama.com; hopen for flight arrivals) offers

very reasonable rates and has a counter inside the airport terminal.

Understand Japan

JAPAN TODAY

A new era begins, and Japan hesitatingly opens up to the world.

HISTORY

Follow Japan’s path from its agrarian beginnings to its appearance on the

global stage.

THE PEOPLE OF JAPAN

What it means to be Japanese on the archipelago today.

ARTS

From kabuki and the tea ceremony to modern-day anime and avant-garde

dance, Japan excels in the arts.

ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS

Wooden temples, feudal castles, traditional gardens and ground-breaking

contemporary architects.

ENVIRONMENT

Japan is defined by its seas, mountains and ever-present seismic and

volcanic activity.

SPORT

Learn about sumo, Japan’s national sport, and the country’s martial arts

tradition.

TRADITIONAL ACCOMMODATION

For an authentic Japanese experience, spend the night in a ryokan,

minshuku or shukubō.

Japan Today

Japan’s stubbornly stagnant economy and dramatically declining

population may well be harbingers of the kinds of problems other

developed nations will face as their populations taper off. And while

many developed countries have recently focused inwards, Japan is

taking tentative steps towards looking out. Will the country grow to

embrace a new, yet-to-be-defined kind of cosmopolitanism, setting a

model for others to follow?

Best on Screen

Shoplifters (Kore-eda Hirokazu; 2018) Honest, loving portrayal of an unconventional family

in Tokyo.

Your Name (Shinkai Makoto; 2016) Beautifully animated story of swapped identity and

Japan’s rural and urban divide.

Terrace House (Fuji TV & Netflix; 2012–) Japanese reality show set in Tokyo, with far more

awkwardness than drama.

Akira (Ōtomo Katsuhiro; 1988) Cult-classic anime with a strangely prescient vision of a

future Tokyo.

Tokyo Story (Ozu Yasujirō; 1953) Portrait of a family in rapidly changing, post-WWII Japan.

Best in Print

Pachinko (Min Jin Lee; 2017) Sweeping, multi-generational saga of a Korean family in Japan.

Convenience Store Woman (Murata Sayaka; 2016) A struggle against the tyranny of societal

norms, set to the busy hum of a Tokyo convenience store.

Six Four (Yokoyama Hideo; 2016) Noir crime novel made all the more terrifying by its

antagonist, the Japanese bureaucracy.

Kyoto: A Cultural History (John Dougill; 2006) Touches on everything from courtly verse to

Zen Buddhism to modern film.

A New Era Begins

It caught everyone off guard when Emperor Akihito announced abruptly in

2016 – on TV, no less – that he wished to abdicate. The last abdication was

in 1817, which was back in the days of the shogun. The modern constitution

had no provision for what to do in this situation. For over a year, lawmakers

debated whether or not Akihito, Japan’s 125th emperor (according to the

Imperial Household Agency’s record-keeping), should even be allowed to

abdicate. Finally, a bill was passed that would allow the sitting emperor, just

this once, to retire.

When Crown Prince Naruhito ascended the Chrysanthemum Throne on

May 1 2019, the Heisei era ended and a new one, the Reiwa era, began. Of

course, the beginnings and ends of Japan’s historic periods – in modern

times determined by the passing of emperors – are determined by nature,

yet they really do seem to effectively bracket the culture’s shifting moods.

The Heisei era had become symbolic of economic stagnation and

uncertainty. In the current, unstable global climate, you can’t help but

wonder: what changes will the new era bring?

Towards a More Open Japan?

Japan’s population is famously shrinking and greying, and while the

country is only on the edge of what is expected to be a precipitous fall, the

labour market is already feeling the pinch. At the close of 2018, the national

government passed an epoch-making immigration reform bill that would

allow a whole new class of foreign workers into the country. Japan has long

been cagey about immigration, offering precious few visas only to persons

deemed to be highly skilled, usually in fields like science and engineering.

The new bill would allow for tens of thousands of foreign labourers to be

admitted into the country to work in so-called ‘low skill’ jobs in

construction, agricultural and the service industries.

It was the conservative majority government who pushed the bill, while

the left-leaning opposition parties opposed it. There are legitimate reasons

for concern: Japan already has an immigration loophole for low-skilled

workers that has a history of misuse. The Technical Intern Training

Program has been around since the 1990s and is supposed to allow for

immigrants from developing countries to come to Japan to learn skills that

they could use to the benefit of their home countries. In reality, many wind

up working in factories under conditions that violate labour laws. Between

2010 and 2018, 174 technical interns died. Critics of the new bill say there

is still too much ambiguity to prevent similar exploitation.

The new visa category will allow workers to stay for five years; some

deemed more skilled will be given 10-year visas that allow them to bring

family. There is no clear path to permanent residency and no established

provisions for promoting integration. A reckoning – of some sort – seems

inevitable.

The Tourists Are Here!

Japan had long hoped to boost its underdeveloped inbound-tourism

industry. It finally got real by relaxing visa regulations for visitors from its

Asian neighbours – a change which, along with the periodically weak yen,

has resulted in a dramatic uptick of foreign visitors. Inbound numbers have

more than doubled since 2010; in 2018 the country logged just over 20

million visitors, already overshooting the 20 million target set for 2020 –

the year Tokyo holds the Summer Olympics.

There is hand-wringing, of course: How do we please them? Where are

we going to park all these tour buses? And will we ever be able to visit

Kyoto in peace again?

But there is also intense fascination: What, exactly, do they find

interesting about Japan? There has been an explosion of TV shows trying to

figure that out, interviewing tourists (even sending TV personalities to

check out places listed in the Lonely Planet guide). The popular show, You!

ha nani shini nihon e? (‘Why did you come to Japan?’) sends cameras to

Narita Airport to look for interesting subjects and then follows them

around. (You’ve been warned!)

After decades of stagnation-bred doldrums, Japan is looking to the

outside world for a pick-me-up: if people are willing to spend money to

come here, it can’t be so bad, right?

POPULATION:

126.5 MILLION

GDP:

US$4.87 TRILLION

INFLATION:

–0.3%

UNEMPLOYMENT:

2.5%

History

Japan’s history has been shaped by both its isolation as an island

nation and its proximity to the massive Asian continent (particularly

Korea and China). During times of openness, the country has absorbed

ideas and cultures from abroad; in times of retreat, it has incubated its

own way of doing things. Together, these trends created the fascinating

Japan we know today – as has its times of power struggle, aggression,

defeat and resurrection.

Ancient Japan

Early Settlers

The earliest traces of human life in Japan date to around 30,000 years ago,

but it is possible that people were here much earlier. Until about 12,000

years ago, a number of land bridges linked Japan to the continent – Siberia

to the north, Korea to the west and probably present-day Taiwan to the

south.

The earliest identifiable culture was that of the neolithic Jōmon, who,

from about 10,000 BC, inhabited coastal areas, particularly in eastern

Japan. Historians associate them with a distinct style of hand-formed

pottery imprinted with twisted cords (Jōmon means ‘cord markings’). They

lived a quasi-nomadic life, gathering seaweed and wild mushrooms, hunting

deer and bear, fishing and dry-farming crops like taro.

Sometime between 800 and 300 BC a new culture began to take shape,

that which is referred to as Yayoi (again after a distinctive form of pottery,

this time created on a wheel). There remains much debate regarding the

origin of this shift, whether it was brought about by settlers from China or

Korea (or both); the earliest known Yayoi settlements were discovered in

northern Kyūshū, which is close to the Korean Peninsula.

By the 1st century AD, the Yayoi had spread to the middle of Honshū,

bringing with them a huge game-changer: wet-rice farming. Not only did

this labour-intensive practice demand more stable settlement, it also

encouraged population growth in fertile basins (and population growth in

general). Agriculture-based settlement led to territories and boundaries

being established. The Yayoi also introduced iron and bronze.

The museum at Aomori’s Sannai Maruyama excavation site is the best place to learn more about

Japan’s early Jōmon culture; there are also artefacts on display at the Tokyo National Museum’s

Japanese Archaeological Gallery.

MYTHIC ORIGINS

Once upon a time, the male and female deities Izanagi and Izanami came down to a watery

world from Takamagahara (the Plains of High Heaven), to create land. Droplets from Izanagi’s

‘spear’ solidified into the land now known as Japan, and Izanami and Izanagi then populated it

with gods. One of these was Japan’s supreme deity, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu (Light of

Heaven), whose great-great-grandson Jimmu became the first emperor of Japan, reputedly in

660 BC. This is the story of Japan’s creation, as told by the young empire’s first written

accounts, Kojiki ( Record of Old Things; 712) and Nihon Shoki ( Record of Japan; 720).

Scholars are sceptical of the existence of the earliest emperors. Some believe the 10th

emperor, Sujin, was the first to really exist, and was perhaps the founder of the Yamato

dynasty (some also think he led a clan of horsemen into Japan from the Korean Peninsula).

Different accounts place his reign anywhere from the 1st century BC to the 4th century AD.

Emperor Kinmei (r 539–71 AD) is the first emperor of verifiable historical record. According

to the lineage of legend, he would have been the 29th emperor. Either way, the Yamoto

dynasty is the longest unbroken monarchy in the world.

The Rise of Yamato Culture

According to Chinese sources, by the end of the 3rd century AD there were

more than a hundred kingdoms in Japan, organised into federations. The

most powerful of these was ruled by a shamaness-queen named Himiko (in

either present-day Nara prefecture or northwest Kyūshū; the location is

unclear). Her land was called Yamatai. The Chinese called her state ‘Wa’;

through tributes, she acknowledged her allegiance to the Chinese emperor.

Over the next couple of centuries, administrative and military power

began to coalesce around a polity called Yamato (which may or may not be

related to Himiko’s Yamatai), in Nara prefecture. Part of Yamato culture

was the practice of burying leaders in mounded tombs (called kofun), whose

shape and size corresponded to status – evidence of a burgeoning material

culture and increasing societal stratification. By the end of the Kofun period

(AD 250–538), tombs could be found as far north as Niigata and as far

south as Tanegashima, an island off the coast of present-day Kagoshima

(though the largest were around Nara), showing the extent of Yamato

hegemony.

The Yamato did have their challengers: throughout these early centuries

rival chiefdoms within the Yayoi cultural sphere made power plays of their

own. There were also what historians call the Epi-Jōmon people, who had

resisted Yayoi culture altogether. Likely descended from the earlier Jōmon

people, the Epi-Jōmon lived in Tōhoku (northern Honshū) and traded with

the Satsumon and Okhotsk people of Hokkaidō and Sakhalin. The Yamato

court called the Epi-Jōmon people Emishi and fought to subjugate them in

wars that continued until the 8th century.

Shintō is one of the few religions in the world with a female solar deity. Amaterasu (Light of

Heaven), the Sun Goddess, is enshrined at Ise-jinja, the most important shrine in the country, where

members of the imperial family serve as chief priest or priestess.

The Age of Courtiers

Buddhism Enters Japan

Buddhism entered Japan in the mid-6th century, introduced by the Korean

kingdom of Baekji, considerably transforming Yamato culture. The religion

itself was noteworthy for the cohesive world view it presented, but also

powerful were the attendant technologies – used to create temples and

statues that would confer on the court an undeniable gravitas. Buddhist rites

were incorporated into the increasingly elaborate pageantry of courtly life.

The era of kofun building was over.

Imported concurrently with Buddhism, increasingly sophisticated

techniques of statecraft would serve to bolster the Yamato state. Prince

Shōtoku (573–620), the powerful regent to Empress Suiko (592–628), was

an early champion of Buddhism and founded the temple Horyū-ji (607). He

also enacted the first of a series of administrative reforms that regulated

land distribution and official ranks, laying the groundwork for a

bureaucratic society. From the 7th century onward, the court sent emissaries

to Tang-dynasty China to further study Buddhism, government, medicine

and art.

For centuries, Shintō tenets on purity had ordained that the court relocate

following the death of an emperor or empress; however, in 710, a

permanent capital was established at Nara, designed in the same grid

pattern as the Tang dynasty capital, Chang’an (present-day Xi’an). The

great temple Tōdai-ji (752) was symbolic of the Buddhist theocratic state

that reached its peak during the Nara period (710–794). And yet, the court

did not totally relinquish its older Shintō belief system; in fact, it doubled

down on it, compiling record books that traced the lineage of Yamato’s

emperors to the realm of its native gods.

Asuka, in southern Nara Prefecture, is the best place to learn about pre-Buddhist Japanese culture;

there are several intact kofun (burial mounds) here, as well as The Museum, Archaeological

Institute of Kashihara.

HISTORICAL PERIODS

PERIOD DATE KEY EVENTS

Jōmon

c 10,000

Japan is populated by neolithic peoples, who migrated from mainland

BC–c

Asia.

400 BC

Yayoi

c 400

Technologically advanced immigrants – likely from the Korean Peninsula

BC–c

– arrive, introducing wet-rice farming and bronze tool-making.

AD 250

Kofun

250–538 Burial mounds codified according to status indicate a society with

increasing stratification.

Asuka

538–710 Buddhism takes hold; civil codes over a burgeoning empire are

established by the ruling Yamato clan.

Nara

710–94

The first permanent capital of Japan is established in the city of Nara.

Heian

794–

A period of peace and cultural refinement thrives under the imperial

1185

court in its new capital, Kyoto.

Kamakura

1185–

Feudalism is imposed by a new military regime in Kamakura; it is led by

1333

a shogun, who is granted power from the (now largely powerless)

emperor.

Muromachi 1333–

The shogunate, under new leadership, is removed to Kyoto; though a

1568

period of instability, culture influenced by Zen Buddhism flourishes.

Azuchi-

1568–

Near-constant civil war rages until Tokugawa Ieyasu establishes a new

Momoyama 1603

shogunate in Edo (Tokyo).

Edo

1603–

The Tokugawa shogunate closes the country and ushers in a period of

1868

significant peace and prosperity.

Meiji

1868–

The shogunate is abolished and the emperor is reinstated as the supreme

1912

power; Japan, now open to the world, begins a wholesale importation of

Western ideas.

Taishō

1912–26 Western-style democracy briefly takes hold, before giving way to

militarisation.

Shōwa

1926–89 The first half of the era is marked by imperial aggression and war; the

latter half sees remarkable postwar growth and the emergence of a

substantial middle class.

Heisei

1989–

Growth screeches to a halt and inequality widens; the country reconsiders

2019

its role in the world and how to move forward.

The Capital at Heian-kyō

By the end of the 8th century the Buddhist clergy at Nara had become so

powerful that Emperor Kammu decided to move the capital to escape it. He

first settled in Nagaoka (today a suburb of Kyoto), but following several

inauspicious disasters, he relocated the capital to Heian-kyō, present-day

Kyoto, where it would exist for the next 1000 years. The location was ideal:

surrounded on three sides by gentle mountains, the site was both a natural

fortress and a perfect embodiment of the principles of Chinese geomancy

that were in vogue at the time. Like Nara, Heian-kyō was modelled after

Chang’an.

Heian-kyō was an exclusive, insular world that revolved around the

court. (Interestingly, the court had no practice of executions; to be

transferred to the provinces was considered punishment enough.) It has

been estimated that the number of courtiers and courtesans hovered around

5000 to 7000; including family members, servants, merchants and artisans,

it is likely that the population of the capital was at least 10 times that. Rank,

largely determined by bloodlines, was everything; it determined, for

example, what clothes could be worn and what kind of house could be built.

High-ranking clans were granted untaxed estates (called shōen) from which

they derived their wealth (and which were worked by peasants). In Heian-

era Japan, women could inherit land, which gave them a degree of

independence.

In 894, as China’s Tang dynasty was on the wane and political tensions in

Heian-kyō were at a high, the imperial court ceased its practice of sending

emissaries to China. For the next several centuries, Japan turned inward. On

the one hand, from isolation was born a rich court culture – the first inklings

of what we consider today to be Japanese culture – defined by refined

aesthetic pursuits. Purely Japanese styles of Buddhism developed, in the

Tendai and Shingon sects. On the other hand, the court grew increasingly

stagnant and out of touch, removed from the realities of governing. By now

much power was out of imperial hands, as court politics came to be largely

manipulated by the powerful Fujiwara clan.

People of the late Heian and early Kamakura periods were distressed by the idea of mappō, the

‘age of the latter law’, when civilisation would enter a 10,000-year period of degeneration. It was

predicted to start 2000 years after the Buddha’s death.

The Genpei War

Outside the capital, in the provinces, powerful military forces were

developing. They were typically led by minor nobles, often sent on behalf

of court-based major nobles to carry out tedious local administrative duties

or to put out the flames of rebellions – particularly in northeast Japan, then

the very edge of the court’s sphere of influence. Some were distant imperial

family members, barred from succession claims (they were given new

names and farmed out to provincial clans) and hostile to the court. To build

up their own power, they recruited local warriors, who would later become

the samurai of the feudal period.

There were two prominent and increasingly influential clans of

disenfranchised lesser nobles: the Minamoto (also known as Genji) and

Taira (Heike) were hostile towards each other. In 1156 they were employed

to help rival claimants to the Fujiwara family leadership, but these figures

soon faded into the background when an all-out feud developed between the

Minamoto and the Taira.

The Taira prevailed under their leader Kiyomori (1118–81), who based

himself in the capital. Over the following 20 years he, too, became overly

absorbed in courtly politics and society. In 1180 he enabled the enthroning

of his two-year-old grandson, Antoku. When a rival claimant requested the

help of the Minamoto family, who had spent those last two decades

regrouping, their leader, Yoritomo (1147–99), was more than ready to agree.

Both Kiyomori and the claimant died shortly afterwards, but Yoritomo

and his younger half-brother Yoshitsune (1159–89) continued the campaign

against the Taira. By 1185 Kyoto had fallen and the Taira had been pursued

to the western tip of Honshū. A naval battle ensued – the famous Battle of

Dan-no-ura, won by the Minamoto. In a well-known tragic tale, Kiyomori’s

widow leapt into the sea with her grandson Antoku (now aged seven),

rather than have him surrender.

The epic Tale of the Heike describes the battles of the Genpei War. It was recited by travelling

monks to the accompaniment of the biwa (Japanese lute), spreading the Buddhist idea of

impermanence ( mujō) along with the story of the Heike’s fall. It’s available in translation by Royall

Tyler (2014).

The Age of Warriors

The Kamakura Shoguns

Minamoto Yoritomo was now the most powerful figure in Japan, yet he did

not seek to become emperor; instead, he asked the new emperor to

legitimise his authority by conferring upon him the title Sei-i Taishōgun

(Commander-in-Chief of Barbarian Subjugation) – or shogun, for short.

This was granted in 1192.

Yoritomo left many existing offices and institutions in place in Kyoto and

set up a base in his home territory of Kamakura (not far from present-day

Tokyo). The shogun’s government was called the bakufu, meaning the tent

headquarters of a field general. In theory, the shogun represented the

military arm of the emperor’s government; in practice, the shogun held the

real power. The feudal age had begun.

Yoritomo’s government, and that of the Hōjō clan (his wife’s family) who

succeeded him, laid the groundwork for the loyalty-based lord-vassal

system that would rule Japanese politics and society for the next seven

centuries. With few exceptions, the emperor would now largely be a

symbolic ruler.

Though influential, the Kamakura shogunate would be short-lived. The

Mongols, under Kublai Khan and at the height of their power, reached

Korea in 1259 and sent envoys to Japan seeking Japanese submission.

When the envoys were expelled, the Mongols sent a fleet to invade the

southern island of Kyūshū in 1274. This attack, and a more determined

effort in 1281, were only barely repulsed after timely storms destroyed

much of the Mongol fleet.

Despite having held off the Mongol invasion, the shogunate suffered. Its

inability to make promised payments to the warriors involved in holding off

the Mongols caused considerable discontent, while the payments it did

make severely depleted its finances. Dissatisfaction towards the Kamakura

regime came to a head under the unusually assertive emperor Go-Daigo

(1288–1339). In 1333, following a failed coup that saw him exiled, Go-

Daigo raised an army and toppled the government, ushering in a return of

political authority to Kyoto.

In 1191 the Zen monk Eisai is said to have brought tea leaves from China, starting Japan’s tradition

of tea drinking.

The Ashikaga Shoguns

Kamakura receded but feudalism did not. Go-Daigo, and the Kyoto nobility,

sought a return to courtly rule, but the warriors who fought for him –

notably his general, Ashikaga Takauji – had no intention of withdrawing

quietly back to the provinces. When Go-Daigo refused to name Takauji

shogun, the general revolted; Go-Daigo fled south to Yoshino (where he set

up a court in exile that existed until 1392). Takauji installed a puppet

emperor from a rival line, who returned the favour by declaring him shogun

in 1338.

Takauji set up his base in Kyoto, at Muromachi. With few exceptions, the

Ashikaga shoguns were relatively ineffective. They struggled to control the

provincial warlords (called daimyō), who they relied on to maintain rule

over the country. Buddhist populist revolts and vigilantism fed off and

further exaggerated the lack of central authority.

By the 15th century, the warlords had succeeded in carving Japan into a

patchwork of fiefdoms. Castles and fortresses were going up around the

country. The Ōnin War (1467–77), between two rival clans who wielded

much of the real power in the capital, all but destroyed Kyoto. For the next

hundred years, the country was in a near-constant state of civil war – a time

known as the Sengoku-jidai (Warring States period; 1467–1568).

The typhoon of 1281 that helped Japan repel Mongol invaders was thought of as a gift from the

gods, a kamikaze (literally ‘divine wind’). Later this term was used to describe Pacific War suicide

pilots who, said to be infused with divine spirit, gave their lives to protect Japan from invasion.

The Bloody Road to Reunification

In the latter half of the 16th century, a series of powerful daimyō attempted

to bring the country back under united rule: first Oda Nobunaga (1534–82),

then Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–98) and finally Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–

1616). By now, Europeans had begun to arrive, bringing with them

Christianity and firearms – another game changer.

One of the most successful of the warlords to take advantage of firearms

was Oda Nobunaga. Starting from a relatively minor power base in what is

now Aichi Prefecture, he managed to outmanoeuvre rivals (including

several family members), seizing Kyoto in 1568. He installed a puppet

shogun from the Ashikaga clan (Yoshiaki), only to drive him out in 1573.

Although he did not take the title of shogun, Nobunaga held de-facto power.

He was noted for his brutality and his disdain for Buddhist priests; he

tolerated Christianity as a counterbalance to Buddhism’s hegemony.

Following Nobunaga’s assassination (by one of his generals), another of

his generals, Toyotomi Hideyoshi – a foot soldier who had risen through the

ranks to become Nobunaga’s favourite – took up the torch of unification,

succeeding over eight years in taking control of Japan.

Hideyoshi’s power had been briefly contested by Tokugawa Ieyasu, son

of a minor lord allied to Nobunaga. Ieyasu agreed to a truce with

Hideyoshi; in return, Hideyoshi granted him eight provinces in eastern

Japan (around present-day Tokyo). Hideyoshi intended this to weaken

Ieyasu by separating him from his ancestral homeland Chūbu (now Aichi

Prefecture); however Ieyasu looked upon the gift as an opportunity to

strengthen his power.

Hideyoshi built his showy castle – which reputedly took some 100,000

workers three years to build – in Osaka. The emperor crowned him regent.

In his later years, Hideyoshi became increasingly paranoid, cruel and

megalomaniacal. He had grand plans for a pan-Asian conquest, and as a

first step he attempted an invasion of Korea in 1592, which failed amid

much bloodshed. He tried again in 1597, but the campaign was abandoned

when Hideyoshi died of illness in 1598.

On his deathbed, Hideyoshi entrusted Ieyasu, who had proven to be one

of his ablest generals, with safeguarding the country and the succession of

his young son Hideyori (1593–1615). Ieyasu, however, soon went to war

against those loyal to Hideyori, finally defeating them in the decisive Battle

of Sekigahara in 1600. In 1603 the emperor named Ieyasu shogun. Breaking

centuries of tradition, Tokugawa Ieyasu decided to locate his government

not in Kyoto, but within his own stronghold in eastern Japan, choosing a

small castle town called Edo (present day Tokyo) for his capital.

CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN

Japan’s so-called ‘Christian Century’ began in 1549 with the arrival of Portuguese

missionaries on the island of Kyūshū. Within decades, hundreds of thousands of Japanese,

from peasants to daimyō (domain lords), were converted.

The rapid rise of Christian belief, as well as its association with trade, Western weaponry

and possibly territory grabbing, came to be viewed as a threat by the bakufu (shogunate) under

Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In 1597 Hideyoshi ordered the crucifixion of 26 Japanese and Spanish

Franciscans in Nagasaki. Despite his death in 1598, an era of suppression of Christians had

begun and, with the expulsion of missionaries ordered in 1614 by Tokugawa Hidetada (who

succeeded his father, Tokugawa Ieyasu, in 1605), thousands of Christians were persecuted

over the following six decades. One form of persecution was fumi-e, in which suspected

Christians were forced to walk on images of Jesus. Many thousands of Christian peasants

revolted in the 1637–38 Shimabara Rebellion, after which Christianity was outlawed

completely.

Japanese Christians reacted by going undercover as kakure Kirishitan (hidden Christians).

Without priests, they worshipped in services held in secret rooms inside private homes. On the

surface, worship resembled other Japanese religions, including using kamidana (Shintō altars)

and butsudan (Buddhist ancestor-worship chests) in homes, and ceremonial rice and sake. But

kakure Kirishitan also kept hanging scrolls of Jesus, Mary and saints, as well as statues like

the Maria-Kannon, depicting Mary in the form of the Buddhist deity of mercy holding an

infant symbolising Jesus. The sounds of worship, too, mimicked Buddhist incantations.

Scholars estimate there were about 150,000 hidden Christians.

It was not until 1865 – 12 years after the arrival of the American expedition led by

Commodore Matthew Perry, who eventually forced Japan to reopen to the West – that Japan

had its first large-scale church again: Ōura Cathedral in Nagasaki. The Meiji government

officially declared freedom of religion in 1871. Today, there are estimated to be between one

and two million Japanese Christians (about 1% of the population).

The Edo Period

Tokugawa Rule

The Tokugawa shoguns would rule for two and a half centuries – a period

of relative peace known as the Edo period (1603–1868). Tokugawa Ieyasu

was both an ambitious ruler and an ambitious city planner. He built the

world’s largest fortress, Edo-jō (Edo Castle); around the castle, a spiral of

moats were dug (by samurai attached to the clans who had opposed

Tokugawa), as well as a canal system to bring water to the population that

had quickly swelled to 500,000 by 1650.

Much of Edo’s stability and swift rise can be attributed to a canny move

by the Tokugawa regime that ensured its hegemony: a system called sankin

kōtai that demanded that all daimyō in Japan spend alternate years in Edo.

Their wives and children remained in Edo (hostages, essentially) while the

daimyō returned to administer their home provinces. This dislocating policy

made it hard for ambitious daimyō to usurp the Tokugawas and the high

costs of travelling back and forth (with sufficiently large retinues) eroded

their finances.

Tokugawa-style micro-management extended to directly controlled ports,

mines, major towns and other strategic areas. Movement was severely

restricted by checkpoints; written authority was required for travel and

wheel transport was outlawed.

SAMURAI: JAPAN’S FEUDAL-ERA WARRIORS

The prime duty of a samurai – a member of the warrior class from about the 12th century

onward – was to give faithful service to his lord. In fact, the origin of the term ‘samurai’ is

closely linked to a word meaning ‘to serve’. Instantly recognisable with their plated armour

knit with silken cords, terrifying face guards and helmets sprouting crests or horns, they are

one of the most enduring images of Japan. The samurai’s best-known weapon was the katana

sword, which rendered them a formidable opponent in single combat.

Over the centuries samurai established a code of conduct that came to be known as bushidō

(the way of the warrior). Above all, this meant loyal service to the lord. A samurai’s honour

was his life; disgrace and shame were to be avoided above all else, and all insults were to be

avenged. Seppuku, also known as hara-kiri, was for the samurai an honourable death – far

preferable to surrender. It required the samurai to ritually disembowel himself, watched by an

aide, who then drew his own sword and lopped off the samurai’s head. Subterfuge was to be

despised, as were all commercial and financial transactions. Towards the oppressed, a samurai

was expected to show benevolence and exercise justice.

Of course not all (and probably very few) samurai lived up to these strict standards. Some

were professional mercenaries who were unreliable and often defected. Samurai indulging in

double-crossing or subterfuge, or displaying outright cowardice, were popular themes in

Japanese theatre. Those who became lordless were known as rōnin (wanderers or masterless

samurai); they acted more like brigands and were a serious social problem.

Following the Meiji Restoration, the new government – itself comprising samurai –

replaced the historic warriors with a conscript army.

Retreat from the World

Early on, the Tokugawa shogunate adopted a policy of sakoku (closure to

the outside world). The regime was leery of Christianity’s potential

influence and expelled missionaries in 1614. All Westerners except the

Protestant Dutch were expelled by 1638. The shogunate found

Protestantism less threatening than Catholicism (knowing that the Vatican

could muster one of the biggest military forces in the world) and would

have let the British stay on if the Dutch had not convinced it that Britain

was a Catholic country. Nevertheless, the Dutch were just a few dozen men

confined to a tiny trading base on the artificial island of Dejima near

Nagasaki.

Overseas travel for Japanese was banned (as well as the return of those

already overseas). And yet, the country did not remain completely cut off:

trade with Asia and the West continued through the Dutch and Ryūkyū

empire (now Okinawa) – it was just tightly controlled and, along with the

exchange of ideas, funnelled exclusively to the shogunate.

Besides loyal samurai, Tokugawa Ieyasu stocked his capital with ninja. Their commander was

Hattori Hanzō, renowned for his cunning, deadly tactics that helped Ieyasu at key moments in his

career. The ninja master’s legacy was enshrined in Hanzōmon, a gate that still exists today at the

Imperial Palace.

Rise of the Merchant Class

Society under Tokugawa rule was made rigidly hierarchical, comprising (in

descending order of importance): shi (samurai), nō (farmers), kō (artisans)

and shō (merchants). Class dress, living quarters and even manner of speech

were all strictly codified, and interclass movement was prohibited. Village

and neighbourhood heads were enlisted to enforce rules at the local level,

creating an atmosphere of surveillance. Punishments could be harsh, cruel

and even deadly for minor offences.

Yet for all its constraints, the Tokugawa period had a considerable

dynamism. Japan’s cities grew enormously during this period: Edo’s

population topped one million in the early 1700s, dwarfing much older

London and Paris. Kyoto, which evolved into a production centre for luxury

goods, and Osaka, a centre for trade, each hovered around 400,000 for

much of the period.

Though they sat at the bottom of the hierarchy, many merchants became

fabulously wealthy, profiting from the great cost required of the daimyō for

their processions and suitably grand lifestyles in Edo. Shut out from

established status symbols by law – they were not allowed, for example, to

wear embroidered silk – the shōnin (merchants) created their own culture,

one that revolved around the Kabuki theatre, sumo tournaments and the

pleasure quarters. The height of fashion was iki, a kind of rakish dandyism.

David Mitchell’s Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet: A Novel (2010) tells about the Dutch living

on the island of Dejima during the period of sakoku. Mitchell (who also wrote the award-winning

novel Cloud Atlas) spent most of the 1990s teaching in Western Honshū, an early inspiration for

the book.

Modernisation

The Black Ships

By the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa shogunate was losing its grip. It is

questionable how much longer it might have held on, but as it happened,

external forces were to hasten its demise. A number of Western vessels –

which the Japanese called kurofune (black ships), because they were

cloaked in pitch – had begun appearing in Japanese waters since the start of

the 19th century.

America in particular was keen to expand its interests across the Pacific.

In 1853 and again the following year, US commodore Matthew Perry

steamed into Edo-wan (now Tokyo Bay) with a show of gunships and

demanded Japan open up to trade and provisioning. The shogunate was no

match for Perry’s firepower and had to agree to his demands. Soon an

American consul arrived, and other Western powers followed suit. Japan

was obliged to sign what came to be called the ‘unequal treaties’, opening

ports and giving Western nations control over tariffs.

Despite last-ditch efforts by the Tokugawa regime to reassert their power,

anti-shogun sentiment was high, particularly in the outer domains of

Satsuma (southern Kyūshū) and Chōshū (western Honshū). A movement

arose to ‘revere the emperor and expel the barbarians’ ( sonnō jōi); in other

words, to restore the emperor to a position of real power (rather than titular

authority) and to kick the Westerners out.

After unsuccessfully skirmishing with the Western powers, however, the

reformers realised that expelling the foreigners was not feasible. Restoring

the emperor was, however, and following a series of military clashes

between the shogun’s armies and the rebels, the rebels proved victorious.

The last shogun, Yoshinobu (1837–1913), agreed to retire in 1867. He lived

out his remaining years peacefully in Shizuoka. Which is not to say

Tokugawa loyalists went quietly into the night; fighting continued,

especially in the northeast, through 1868–69, in what is known as the

Boshin War.

The feat of the 47 rōnin (masterless samurai), who plotted for over a year (1701–03) to avenge

their master’s death, is among Japan’s most storied historical events. While sentenced to death, so

great was the outpouring of respect, that the loyal samurai were allowed to keep their honour and

commit seppuku (ritual suicide).

Meiji Restoration

In 1868, the new teenage emperor Mutsuhito (1852–1912; later known as

Meiji) was named the supreme leader of the land, commencing the Meiji

period (1868–1912; Enlightened Rule). The institution of the shogun was

abolished and the shogunal base at Edo was refashioned into the imperial

capital and given the new name, Tokyo (Eastern Capital). In truth, the

emperor still wielded little actual power: the new government was formed

primarily of Satsuma or Chōshū samurai.

The Meiji Restoration heralded far-reaching social changes. The four-tier

class system was scrapped; after centuries of having everything prescribed

for them, citizens were now free to choose their occupation and place of

residence. Many moved to the cities to join the growing workforce in the

new manufacturing and white-collar sectors. In 1898, Tokyo’s population

was just shy of 1.5 million; by 1909 it had surpassed two million.

The new government sought to expand its rule: annexing Hokkaidō in

1869 and the Ryūkyū Kingdom (then a tributary of China; now present day

Okinawa) in 1879, imposing strict assimilation policies.

The disorienting collapse of the regimented Tokugawa world produced a form of mass hysteria

called ee ja nai ka (who cares?), that saw people dancing naked in the streets and giving away

possessions.

Westernisation

Above all, the new leaders of Japan – keen observers of what was

happening throughout Asia – feared colonisation by the West. They moved

quickly to modernise, as defined by the Western powers, to prove they

could stand on an equal footing with the colonisers. The government

embarked on a grand project of industrialisation and militarisation. A great

exchange began between Japan and the West: Japanese scholars were

dispatched to Europe to study everything from literature and engineering to

nation building and modern warfare. Western scholars were invited to teach

in Japan’s nascent universities.

The new Japanese establishment learned quickly: in 1872 the first

railroad opened, connecting Tokyo with the new port of Yokohama, south

along Tokyo Bay. By 1889 the country had a constitution, modelled after

the government frameworks of England and Prussia. Banking systems, a

new legal code and political parties were established. Daimyō were

‘persuaded’ to give their domain land to the government in return for

governorships or other compensation, enabling a prefectural system to be

set up.

Still, cronyism persisted: the government took responsibility for

establishing major industries and then selling them off at bargain rates to

chosen government-friendly industrial entrepreneurs – a factor in the

formation of huge industrial conglomerates known as zaibatsu, many of

which still exist today (such as Mitsubishi, Sumitomo and Mitsui).

By the 1920s, Western fashions and ideas, initially the domain of the

elite, began to trickle down to the middle class. Women began to work

outside the home, in offices, department stores and factories, enjoying a

new freedom and disposable income. Like women around the world in the

1920s, they cut their hair short and wore pants – and became symbols for

both the optimism and the dread that the new modern era inspired.

The Tokugawa regime promoted a brand of neo-Confucianism that emphasised hierarchical order

and had the (perhaps unintended) positive effect of promoting literacy: by the end of the period of

Tokugawa rule, up to a third of the 30 million Japanese were literate – far ahead of Western

populations of the time.

The World Stage

Imperialist Japan

A key element of Japan’s aim to become a world power was military might.

Following Prussian army and British navy models, Japan built up a

formidable armed force. Using the same ‘gunboat diplomacy’ on Korea that

Perry had used on the Japanese, in 1876 Japan was able to force on Korea

an unequal treaty of its own, and increasingly meddled in Korean politics.

Using Chinese ‘interference’ in Korea as a justification, in 1894 Japan

manufactured a war with China and emerged victorious. As a result, it

gained Taiwan and the Liaotung Peninsula. Russia pressured Japan into

renouncing the peninsula and then promptly occupied it, leading to the

Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05, won by Japan. When Japan officially

annexed Korea in 1910, there was little international protest.

By the time of Mutsuhito’s death in 1912, Japan was recognised as a

world power. Japan entered WWI on the side of the Allies, and was

rewarded with a council seat in the newly formed League of Nations. It also

acquired German possessions in East Asia and the Pacific. The war had

been a boon for industry, creating a new stratum of wealth (though the vast

majority of the population was left out).

Aggression in China

The early decades of the 20th century were a time of optimism, when

democratic ideals seemed to be overtaking feudal-era loyalties. But there

was a dark undercurrent of dissatisfaction, both among certain political and

military factions (who felt they were still not held in equal esteem by

Western powers) and by the poor (rural and urban alike, as the Great

Depression hit Japan), appalled by what they saw as an elite under the sway

of Western decadence.

The Washington Conference of 1921–22 set naval ratios of three capital

ships for Japan to five American and five British, which upset the Japanese

(despite being well ahead of France’s 1.75). Around the same time, a racial-

equality clause proposed by Japan to the League of Nations was rejected.

And in 1924 America introduced race-based immigration policies that

effectively targeted Japanese. The armed forces bristled at the humiliation

of yet another round of capitulations. Prime Minister Hamaguchi Osachi,

who favoured economic austerity over increased military spending, was

shot in 1931 (dying some months later). By then, the military was acting of

its own accord.

In the fall of 1931, members of the Japanese army stationed in

Manchuria, who were there to guard rail lines leased by China to Japan,

detonated explosives along the track and blamed the act on Chinese

dissidents. This ruse, which gave the Japanese army an excuse for armed

retaliation, became known as the Manchurian Incident. The Japanese easily

overpowered Chinese forces and within months had taken control of

Manchuria (present-day Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning provinces) and

installed a puppet government. The League of Nations refused to

acknowledge the new Manchurian government; in 1933 Japan left the

league.

Skirmishes continued between the Chinese and Japanese armies, leading

to full-blown war in 1937. Following a hard-fought victory in Shanghai,

Japanese troops advanced south to capture Nanjing. Over several months

somewhere between 40,000 and 300,000 Chinese were killed in what has

become known as the Nanjing Massacre or Rape of Nanjing. To this day,

the number of deaths and the prevalence of rape, torture and looting by

Japanese soldiers is hotly debated among historians (and government

nationalists) on both sides. Japanese attempts to downplay this and other

massacres in Asia remain to this day a stumbling block in Japan’s relations

with many Asian nations.

When NHK, Japan’s national broadcaster, played a message prerecorded by Emperor Hirohito

declaring Japan’s surrender to the Allies in WWII, it was the first time the people of Japan had

heard their emperor speak.

WWII

Encouraged by Germany’s early WWII victories, Japan signed a pact with

Germany and Italy in 1940 (though these European allies offered little

actual cooperation). With France and the Netherlands distracted and

weakened by the war in Europe, Japan quickly moved on their colonial

territories – French Indo-China and the Dutch West Indies – in Southeast

Asia. According to Japanese wartime rhetoric, the empire sought to create

what it called a ‘Greater East Asian Co-Prosperity Sphere’ and to liberate

other Asian peoples from European colonialism. While some locals may

have been initially optimistic about the ousting of the European

imperialists, their hopes quickly faded; millions, especially in Indonesia,

were conscripted into harsh labour.

Meanwhile, tensions between Japan and the USA had been intensifying,

as the Americans, alarmed by Japan’s aggression, demanded Japan back

down in China. When diplomacy failed, the USA (then still neutral) barred

oil exports to Japan – a crucial blow. Japanese forces struck at Pearl Harbor

on 7 December, 1941, damaging much of the USA’s Pacific fleet and

bringing the USA into the war.

Despite initial successes, the tide started to turn against Japan at the

Battle of Midway in June 1942, when much of its carrier fleet was

destroyed. Japan had overextended itself, and over the next three years was

subjected to an island-hopping counter-attack by the Allies. By mid-1945,

Japan, ignoring the Potsdam Declaration calling for unconditional

surrender, was preparing for a final Allied assault on its homeland. On 6

August the USA dropped the world’s first atomic bomb on Hiroshima,

killing 90,000 civilians. Russia, which Japan had hoped might mediate,

declared war on 8 August. On 9 August another atomic bomb was dropped,

this time on Nagasaki, causing another 50,000 deaths. The emperor

formally surrendered on 15 August, 1945.

Until Japan was occupied by the USA and other Allies following WWII, the nation had never been

conquered or occupied by a foreign power.

Post-War Japan

Occupation

The terms of Japan’s surrender to the Allies allowed the country to hold on

to the emperor as the ceremonial head of state, but he no longer had

authority – nor could he be thought of as divine – and Japan was forced to

give up its territorial claims in Korea and China. In addition, America

occupied the country under General Douglas MacArthur, the Supreme

Commander of Allied Powers (SCAP), a situation that would last until 1952

(and until 1972 in Okinawa).

MacArthur lead the drafting of a new constitution, one that laid out the

emperor’s new role as figurehead; dictated a separation of religion and

state; and extended suffrage to women. Crucially, Article 9 of the

constitution renounced war and the right to maintain a standing armed

forces. In 1951, a security treaty was signed by the United States and Japan

that stipulated Japan would fall under the umbrella of US military

protection – a treaty (and source of contention) that remains to this day.

Following the end of occupation, Japan settled into a– if not happy, then

stable – medium between the democratic ideals put forth in its new

constitution and the top-down authority favoured by the government’s

reigning conservatives (who still bristled at Japan’s defeat). In 1955, the

Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) came to power; they would rule Japanese

politics with few breaks until the present day, in cooperation with career

bureaucrats and big business.

The Boom Years

In the 1950s Japan took off on a trajectory of phenomenal growth that is

often described as miraculous (though it was jump-started by US

procurement for the Korean War). Throughout the 1960s, Japan’s GDP

grew, on average, 10% a year. The new consumer class, inspired by the

images of affluence introduced during the American occupation, yearned

for the so-called ‘three sacred treasures’ of the modern era (a play on the

three sacred treasures of the imperial family: the sword, the mirror and the

jewel) – a refrigerator, a washing machine and a television. By 1964, 90%

of the population had them.

The 1964 Tokyo Summer Olympics, were seen by many as a turning

point in the nation’s history, the moment when Japan finally recovered from

the devastation of WWII to emerge as a fully fledged member of the

modern world economy.

Growth continued through the ’70s and reached a peak in the late ’80s,

when wildly inflated real-estate prices and stock speculation fuelled what is

now known as the ‘Bubble economy’. These were heady times, when it

seemed like all the hard work of the postwar decades had paid off; many

Japanese went overseas for the first time, famously snapping up Louis

Vuitton handbags by the armful. It seemed like things could only go up –

until they didn’t.

Based on the price paid for the most expensive real estate in the late 1980s, the land value of Tokyo

exceeded that of the entire US.

Heisei Doldrums

In 1991, just two years after the Heisei Emperor ascended the throne, the

bubble burst and Japan’s economy went into a tailspin. The 1990s were

christened the ‘Lost Decade’, but that has since turned into two, and

probably three, as the economy continues to slump along, despite

government intervention. Long-time prime minister Abe Shinzō’s so-called

Abenomics plan, which included a devaluing of the yen, has had some

positive effects on corporate gains – and also on in-bound tourism (making

Japan a cheaper place to visit!) – and generated some ‘Japan is back!’

headlines, but ordinary people have seen little change. By now a whole

generation has come of age in a Japan where lifelong employment – the

backbone of the middle class – is no longer a guarantee.

There have been other disturbing troubles in Japanese society. In March

1995, members of the Aum Shinrikyō doomsday cult released sarin nerve

gas on crowded Tokyo subways, killing 12 and injuring more than 5000.

This, together with the devastating Kōbe earthquake of the same year,

which killed more than 6000 people, signalled the end of Japan’s feeling of

omnipotence, born of the unlimited successes of the 1980s. The once proud

brand of Japan Inc has been tarnished by successive corporate scandals. The

2011 earthquake and tsunami in northeastern Japan, coupled with the

meltdown at the Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear power plant, further

underlined the nation’s fragility. With the abdicaton of the Heisei Emperor

in 2019 the era came to a close and so, many hope, will the malaise it came

to symbolise.

Japan is also struggling with its international role: the leeway allowed by

its ‘Peace Constitution’; its relationship with its unpredictable neighbours,

China (whose economy eclipsed Japan’s in 2010 to become number two)

and North Korea; and its relationship with an increasingly unpredictable US

– Japan’s largest trading partner and the country for whom it relies on for

national security.

TIMELINE

c 13,000 BC

First evidence of the hunter-gatherer Jōmon, neolithic peoples who migrated from mainland

Asia.

c 400 BC

Yayoi people appear in southwest Japan (probably via Korea), practising wet rice cultivation

and using metal tools. They also promote a sense of territoriality.

3rd century AD

Queen Himiko reigns over a region called Yamatai and is recognised by Chinese visitors as

‘over-queen’ of Japan’s more than 100 kingdoms.

mid-5th century

Writing – and thus record-keeping – is introduced into Japan by scholars from the Korean

kingdom of Baekje (though based on the Chinese system of characters).

mid-6th century

Baekje scholars introduce Buddhism. Its texts can be read by a now-literate elite, who use it as

a unifying tool.

710

Japan’s first capital is established at Nara, based on Chinese models. By now, Japan, with its

estimated five million people, has many characteristics of a nation-state.

712 & 720

The compilation of two major historical works, Kojiki (712) and Nihon Shoki (720), allows the

imperial family to trace its ‘divine’ origins and, in this way, legitimise its right to rule.

740

Construction begins on the vast Tōdai-ji temple complex in Nara. It is thought the complex

was built to provide a focus for the nation and to ward off smallpox.

794

The imperial capital moves to Heian-kyō, renamed Kyoto in the 11th century. It is laid out in a

grid in accordance with Chinese geomancy principles.

804

After travelling to China to study Buddhism, Kūkai (also known as Kōbō Daishi) founds

Shingon (Esoteric) Buddhism in Japan and establishes the famous Kōya-san religious centre.

early 1000s

Lady of the court, Murasaki Shikibu, writes The Tale of Genji, considered to be the world’s

first novel.

1100s

The Northern Fujiwara clan, largely independent of the court, wrests control of northeastern

Honshū (present-day Tōhoku), pushing the native peoples (possible Jōmon descendants) north

to Hokkaidō.

1156

The major provincial clans Taira and Minamoto are employed by rival court factions and

engage in bitter warfare, with the Taira prevailing under its warrior-leader Kiyomori.

1185–92

Minamoto Yoritomo topples the Taira and fights to secure his authority by eliminating rivals

(including his own half-brother). By defeating the Northern Fujiwara in 1189 he adds

northeast Japan to his territory.

1192

Yoritomo takes the title shogun (generalissimo) from a largely powerless emperor and

establishes the bakufu (shogunate) in his home territory at Kamakura, heralding the start of

feudalism in Japan.

1200–50

Hōnen and Shinran promote the ‘Pure Land’ schools of Buddhism, which remain the country’s

most popular Buddhist sects.

1223

The monk Dōgen studies Chang Buddhism in China and later returns to found the Sōtō school

of Zen Buddhism. Zen proves popular with the warrior class and goes on to influence Japanese

aesthetics.

1274 & 1281

Under Kublai Khan, the Mongols twice attempt to invade Japan, but fail due to poor planning,

spirited Japanese resistance and, especially, the destruction of their fleets by typhoons.

1333

General Ashikaga Takauji, allied with Emperor Go-Daigo, topples the unpopular Hōjō

shogunate. Takauji requests the title of shogun, but Go-Daigo declines and a rift develops.

1338–92

Takauji installs a new puppet emperor who names him shogun, establishing the Ashikaga

shogunate in Kyoto’s Muromachi district. Two rival emperors exist till Go-Daigo’s line is

betrayed by Takauji’s grandson in 1392.

late 1300s

Kyoto’s Kinkaku-ji (Golden Temple) is designed as a retreat for the shogun; in accordance

with his will, it is transformed into a Zen temple on his death.

1400s

The Ōnin War (1467–77), ignited by succession claims, kicks off a near constant era of civil

war, referred to as the Sengoku (Warring States) period, that lasts through the 16th century.

1543

Portuguese, the first Europeans, arrive by chance in Japan, bringing firearms and Christianity.

Firearms prove popular among warlords; Christianity gets a mixed reception.

1568

The warlord Oda Nobunaga seizes Kyoto and becomes the supreme power, though he does not

take the title of shogun. He is noted for his massive ego and brutality.

1582

Nobunaga is betrayed and forced to commit suicide. Power transfers to one of his loyal

generals, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who takes the title of regent.

late 1500s

Sen-no-Rikyū lays down the form of the tea ceremony, the ritualised drinking of tea originally

practised by nobility and later spreading to wealthy commoners.

1592 & 1597–98

Hideyoshi twice tries to conquer Korea as part of a plan to control Asia, the second attempt

ending after his death in 1598. The invasions seriously damage relations between Japan and

Korea.

1600

The warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu breaks an earlier promise to the dying Hideyoshi to protect his

young son and heir Hideyori, and seizes power at the Battle of Sekigahara.

1603

Ieyasu becomes shogun, establishing a new shogunate in the small castle town Edo (now

Tokyo), beginning 250 years of relative peace under Tokugawa rule.

1606

Matsumae castle is erected in southern Hokkaidō giving Japan a toehold on the northern

island, then called Ezo and populated by a people called Ainu.

1638

The sakoku policy of national isolation is enacted; shogunal forces massacre Japanese

Christians in the Christian-led Shimabara Rebellion.

1689–91

Matsuo Bashō, the greatest name in haiku poetry, completes a journey around Japan that

inspires his most famous collection of poems, The Narrow Road to the Deep North.

early to mid-19th century

The nation’s isolation is threatened by increasing numbers of foreign whalers and other vessels

entering Japanese waters. Treatment of those attempting to land is harsh.

1853–54

US commodore Matthew Perry’s ‘black ships’ arrive off the coast of Shimoda, forcing Japan

to open up for trade and reprovisioning.

1859

Five international ports are established in Yokohama, Hakodate, Kōbe, Niigata and Nagasaki,

opening the way for foreign settlements.

1854–67

Opposition to the shogunate grows, led by samurai from the Satsuma and Chōshū domains,

resulting in civil war; the last shogun retires in 1867.

1867–68

The Meiji Restoration reinstates imperial authority, installing 15-year-old emperor Mutsuhito

as head of state (though real power is wielded by oligarchs). Japan’s capital is moved to Edo,

renamed Tokyo.

1869

Japan formally annexes Hokkaidō; in 1889 laws enforcing assimilation of the indigenous Ainu

people are enacted.

1879

Japan annexes the Ryūkyū Kingdom (then a tributary of China) and renames it Okinawa;

assimilation policies are also carried out against native Okinawans.

1895

Defeating China in the Sino-Japanese War, Japan, who initiated the conflict in 1894, gains

Taiwan and its territorial expansion begins.

1902

Japan signs the Anglo-Japanese Alliance, the first-ever equal alliance between a Western and

non-Western nation and an indicator of Japan’s growing power.

1904–05

Japan wins the Russo-Japanese War. Antipathy towards Russia had developed after the Sino-

Japanese War, when Russia pressured Japan to renounce Chinese territory that it then

occupied.

1910

Free of any Russian threat, Japan formally annexes Korea, in which it had been increasingly

interested since the 1870s. The international community makes no real protest.

1912

Emperor Meiji (Mutsuhito) dies, after seeing Japan rise from a remote pre-industrial nation to

a world power in half a century. His mentally disabled son, Yoshihito, succeeds him.

1914–15

Japan sides with the Entente in WWI in 1914; in 1915 it presents China with ‘Twenty-One

Demands’ for more control in China, earning rebuke from its new allies.

1923

The Great Kantō Earthquake strikes Japan near Tokyo, killing an estimated 100,000 to

140,000 people. Much of the destruction is caused by fires sweeping through Tokyo and

Yokohama after the quake.

1931

Increasingly defiant of the West, Japan invades Manchuria and then dramatically withdraws

from the League of Nations in response to criticism.

1937

During an attempted occupation of China, Japan commits grave atrocities in Nanjing, killing

many thousands of people, mostly civilians.

1941

Japan enters WWII by striking Pearl Harbor without warning on 7 December, destroying much

of the USA’s Pacific fleet and drawing America into the war.

1942

After early military successes, Japan’s expansion is thwarted at the Battle of Midway in June,

with significant losses. From this time, Japan is largely in retreat.

1945

Following intensive firebombing of Tokyo in March, Hiroshima and Nagasaki become victims

of an atomic bombing on 6 and 9 August, leading Japan’s leader, Hirohito, to surrender on 15

August.

1945–52

Japan undergoes USA-led occupation and a rapid economic recovery follows. Hirohito is

spared from prosecution as a war criminal, angering many American allies.

1954

Godzilla makes his first appearance in an animated movie of the same name, directed by

Honda Ishirō, with the premise that Godzilla was a monster created by the atomic bombings of

WWII.

1955

The Liberal Democratic Party is formed; excepting the periods of 1993–94 and 2009–12, it

will hold continuous power.

1960s

Protests against the signing of the ‘Treaty of Mutual Cooperation and Security between the

United States and Japan’ (known as ANPO) erupt in 1960, ushering in a decade of social

agitation.

1964

Tokyo hosts the Summer Olympics, an event that for many Japanese marked Japan’s full re-

entry into the international community and the completion of its recovery from WWII.

1972

The USA returns administrative control of Okinawa to Japan, but keeps many bases in place,

which is a continuing source of tension.

1990

The so-called ‘Bubble Economy’, based on overinflated land and stock prices, finally bursts in

Japan. By the end of the year, the stock market has lost 48% of its value.

1995

The Great Hanshin Earthquake (magnitude 6.9) strikes Kōbe, killing over 6000; two months

later a cult releases sarin gas on the Tokyo Metro, killing 12.

2005

Japan’s population declines for the first year since WWII, a trend that will continue.

2010

China surpasses Japan as the world’s second-largest economy after the USA.

2011

On 11 March, the Great East Japan Earthquake strikes off the coast of northeast Japan

(Tōhoku), generating a tsunami that kills many thousands and setting off a crisis at a nuclear

power plant in Fukushima Prefecture.

2019

Emperor Akihito (b 1933), the first Japanese emperor of the modern age to abdicate, steps

down on 30 April, ushering in a new era, Reiwa.

The People of Japan

The people of Japan are depicted as inscrutable. Or reticent. Or shy.

They often are these things, but often they are not. Japan is typically

considered a homogeneous nation, and ethnically this is largely true

(though there are minority cultures). But there are also deep divides

between urban and rural, stubbornly persistent gendered spheres and

growing social stratification. Increasingly, the Japanese are grappling

with the problems faced by developed nations the world over.

Population

The population of Japan is approximately 126.5 million. That alone makes

Japan a densely populated nation. But the population is unevenly distributed:

about nine out of 10 people live in an area classified as urban. Roughly a

quarter of the population (about 36 million) lives within the Greater Tokyo

Metropolitan Area, which encompasses the cities of Tokyo, Kawasaki and

Yokohama, plus the commuter towns stretching deep into the suburbs; it’s

the most heavily populated metropolitan area in the world. Another nearly

20 million live in the Kyoto–Osaka–Kōbe conurbation (often called

Keihanshin). Japan has 13 cities in which the population exceeds one

million.

But the population, in general, is shrinking and getting older: for the last

two decades the country’s birthrate has hovered consistently around 1.4 –

among the lowest in the world. The population peaked at 128 million in

2007 and has been in decline since; the latest estimates see a decline of 20

million (roughly one sixth of the total population!) in the next 25 years.

Currently over one in four Japanese is over the age of 65; in 25 years, if

current trends hold, the number will be one in three and less than one in 10

will be a child under the age of 15.

Diversity

One notable feature of Japan’s population is its relative ethnic and cultural

homogeneity. This is particularly striking for visitors from the USA,

Australia and other multicultural nations. The Japanese census does not ask

questions pertaining to race, only nationality. As a result, discussions of

diversity in Japan tend to fall on divisions of national identity – who is

Japanese and who is not.

The 2015 census revealed 2.23 million foreigners living in Japan – an

uptick of 5% from the year before; the count includes those holding

permanent residence status as well as students and temporary workers. The

largest non-Japanese group in the country is the Chinese, who number

roughly 666,000, or almost 30% of Japan’s foreign population; next are

Koreans, who number 458,000 (20%) and Filipinos (229,600; 10%).

Zainichi Koreans

There are just under half a million Koreans living in Japan today, but that

number masks layers of complexity. When Japan annexed Korea in 1910

many migrants came to Japan for work; during WWII hundreds of thousands

were brought over by the Japanese government to work in wartime factories

or stand on the front lines. When the war ended and Korea regained its

independence most Koreans returned home, but quite a few stayed. Some

had established lives in Japan, others couldn’t afford the trip home and still

others were wary of instability on the peninsula.

Under the colonial empire Koreans were subjects of the Japanese

emperor; however, after the war, the Japanese government did not

automatically grant those Koreans who stayed citizenship. Instead they

became Zainichi (temporary residents) and were effectively stateless. Up

until the 1980s, Zainichi Koreans who wished to become naturalised citizens

were required to adopt Japanese-sounding names. Zainichi Koreans who did

not naturalise faced discrimination in the workplace and in marriage. Those

who did were often accused of betrayal by those who hadn’t; if outed, they

would face discrimination anyway.

When Japan resumed diplomatic relations with South Korea in 1965, the

latter allowed Zainichi Koreans to claim South Korean nationality, which

would now be recognised in Japan. Those who chose not to (perhaps

because their allegiance or family ties lay with North Korea) and had not

become naturalised Japanese citizens, remained stateless. According to the

2015 census, there are still 34,000 of them. Japan does not grant citizenship

automatically at birth unless one parent is already a Japanese citizen. There

are now Zainichi Koreans who are fourth- or fifth-generation residents of

Japan. Every year some choose to naturalise; if they don’t, they remain shut

out of certain social welfare benefits available only to citizens.

WE JAPANESE

It’s common to hear Japanese begin explanations of their culture by saying, ware ware nihonjin,

which means, ‘we Japanese’. There’s a strong sense of national cohesion, reinforced by the

media which plays up images of Japan as a unique cultural Galapagos; TV programs featuring

foreign visitors being awed and wowed by the curious Japanese way of doing things are popular

with viewers. The Japanese, in turn, are often fascinated (and intimidated) by what they

perceive as the otherness of outside cultures.

Japan has long prided itself on being a middleclass nation; however, income inequality has grown in

recent years, especially affecting single-parent households. Today, one in six children is raised in

relative poverty, in a household with an income of less than half the national average.

Minority Cultures

Hidden within the population stats are Japan’s invisible minorities – those

who are native-born Japanese, who appear no different from other native-

born Japanese but who can trace their ancestry to historically

disenfranchised peoples. Chief among these are the descendants of the Ainu,

the native people of Hokkaidō, and Okinawans.

Prior to being annexed by Japan in the 19th century, Hokkaidō and

Okinawa (formerly the Ryūkyū Empire) were independent territories.

Following annexation, the Japanese government imposed assimilation

policies that forbade many traditional customs and even the teaching of

native languages.

The number of Japanese who identify as Ainu is estimated to be around

20,000, though it is likely that there are many more descendants of

Hokkaido’s indigenous people out there – some who may not know it,

perhaps because their ancestors buried their identity so deep (for fear of

discrimination) that it became hidden forever. There are maybe 10 native

speakers of Ainu left; however, in recent decades movements have emerged

among the younger generation to learn the language and other aspects of

their culture.

Today’s Okinawans have a strong regional identity, though it is less about

their ties to the former Ryūkyū Empire and more about their shared recent

history since WWII. The Okinawans shouldered an unequal burden, both of

casualties and of occupation.

Another group is the burakumin. Racially no different from other

Japanese, they were the disenfranchised of the feudal-era social hierarchy,

whose work included tanning, butchering, the handling of corpses, and other

occupations that carried the taint of death. Shunned, they lived in isolated

settlements (called buraku). When the old caste system was abolished and

the country modernised, the stigma should have faded, but it didn’t: official

household registries (often required as proof of residence when applying for

a job) tied the ancestors of the burakumin to towns known to be former

buraku.

Discrimination in work and marriage was once common, though negative

feelings towards buraku descendants appear to be diminishing with each

generation.

Though English is slim, the Liberty Museum in Osaka has exhibits on

Japan’s minority cultures and their struggles for social justice.

Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo | ESB PROFESSIONAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Work Life

Over 70% of Japanese work in the service industry, a broad category that

covers white-collar jobs, retail, care-giving and so on. A quarter of the

population works in manufacturing, though these jobs are on the decline.

Just 3.4% of Japanese today still work full-time in agriculture, forestry and

fishing. It’s a huge shift: until the beginning of last century, the majority of

Japanese lived in close-knit rural farming communities.

For much of the 20th century, the backbone of the middle class was the

Japanese corporation, which provided lifetime employment to the legions of

blue-suited, white-collar workers, almost all of them men (and nicknamed

‘salarymen’), who lived, worked, drank, ate and slept in the service of the

companies for which they toiled. Families typically consisted of a salaryman

father, a housewife mother, kids who studied dutifully in order to earn a

place at one of Japan’s elite universities and an elderly relative who had

moved in.

Since the recession of the 1990s (which plagues the economy to this day),

this system has faltered. Today, roughly 37% of employees are considered

‘non-regular’, meaning they are on temporary contracts, often through

dispatch agencies. In many cases they are doing work that once would have

been done by full-time, contracted staff – just now with less pay, less

stability and fewer benefits. The percentage of non-regular workers is

particularly high for young people, older people and women. For some, this

is a conscientious rejection of their parents’ lifestyles, but for most it is

because they find themselves shut out of the full-time workforce. As in most

developed countries, tomobataraki (both spouses working) is now

increasingly common.

VISITING A SHINTŌ SHRINE

A visit to a shrine is a prescribed ritual. Upon entering a torii gate, it’s the custom to bow, hands

pressed together, and then proceed to the temizuya (font). Use the dipper to collect water from

the spigot, pour it over your left hand and then your right (careful not to let the water drip back

into the font). Fill your left hand with water and rinse out your mouth; then rinse your left hand

a final time with the remaining water.

Next, head to the haiden (hall of worship), which sits in front of the honden (main hall)

enshrining the kami (god of the shrine). Here you’ll find a thick rope hanging from a gong, with

an offerings box in front. Toss a coin – a ¥5 coin is considered lucky – into the box and ring the

gong by pulling on the rope (to summon the deity). Then pray, clap your hands twice, bow and

then back away from the shrine. Be sure to bow again at the gate on your way out.

Religion

Shintō

Shintō, or ‘the way of the gods’, is the native religion of Japan. Its

innumerable kami (gods) are located mostly in nature (in trees, rocks,

waterfalls and mountains, for example), but also in the mundane objects of

daily life, like hearths and wells. Kami can be summoned through rituals of

dance and music in the shrines the Japanese have built for them, where they

may be beseeched with prayers for a good harvest or a healthy pregnancy,

for example; in modern times for success in business or school exams.

Shintō’s origins are unclear. For ages it was a vague, amorphous set of

practices and beliefs. It has no doctrine and no beginning or endgame; it

simply is. One important concept is musubi, a kind of vital energy that

animates everything ( kami and mortals alike). Impurities ( tsumi) interfere

with musubi so purification rituals are part of all Shintō rites and practices.

For this reason, visitors to shrines first wash their hands and mouth at the

temizu (font). Some traditional rites include fire, which is also seen as a

purifying force. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Shintō was

reconfigured by the imperialist state into a national religion centred on

emperor worship. This ended with Japan’s defeat in WWII, when Emperor

Hirohito himself publicly renounced his divinity. It’s unclear what those who

today identify as Shintō actually believe.

Regardless of belief, there are customs so ingrained in Japanese culture

that many continue to perform them anyway, as a way of carrying on family

and community traditions. Shrines are still the place to greet the New Year, a

rite called Hatsu-mōde; to celebrate the milestones, such as Coming-of-Age

Day and Shichi-go-san; and where the lovelorn come to pray for a match. At

the very least, many would say, doing such things can’t hurt.

A butsudan is a traditional Buddhist family altar, where candles or incense may be lit as an offering to one’s ancestors. They’re passed down through the male line, typically to the household of the

oldest son. Many rural families still keep them up; increasingly city dwellers don’t.

Buddhism

Buddhism in Japan is part of the Mahāyāna (Great Vehicle) tradition, which

teaches that anyone (as opposed to just monks) can attain salvation in this

lifetime. A key figure in Mahāyāna Buddhism is the bodhisattva, a

compassionate being who, on the cusp of achieving Buddha-hood, delays

transcendence in order to help others. By the time Buddhism arrived in

Japan in the 6th century, having travelled from India via Tibet, China and

Korea, it had acquired a whole pantheon of deities. More importantly, it

didn’t so much supplant Shintō as elaborate on it. Overtime, Shintō kami

became integrated into the Buddhist cosmology while many new deities

were adopted as kami; those with similar aspects were seen as two faces of

the same being.

Over the centuries, several distinct sects developed in Japan. Zen is the

most well-known internationally, for its meditative practice zazen (seated

meditation), but there are others, too, like the older esoteric Shingon sect

(which shares similarities with Tibetan Buddhism) and the populist Pure

Land sect (which has the greatest number of adherents). Regardless of sect,

the most popular deity in Japan is Kannon, a bodhisattva who embodies

mercy and compassion and is believed to have the power to alleviate

suffering in this world.

Given its association with the afterlife, many turn to Buddhism later in

life. (And because of its role in funereal rites, many young Japanese have a

dour view of the religion). But, like Shintō, there are certain practices carried

out by believers and non-believers alike. The Buddhist festival of O-Bon, in

mid-summer, is when the souls of departed ancestors are believed to pay a

short visit. Families return to their hometowns to sweep gravestones, an act

called ohaka-mairi, and welcome them. Only the most staunch non-believer

could avoid the creeping sense that skipping such rituals would be tempting

fate.

Oya-koko is the Japanese expression for filial piety, though it more literally means something like

‘making your parents happy’. This can mean taking care of them when they’re older but also calling

them up, taking them out to lunch or popping around to do some odd chores.

Women in kimono | YULIA GRIGORYEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Women in Japan

Women have historically been viewed as keepers of the home, responsible

for overseeing the household budget, monitoring the children’s education

and taking care of the day-to-day tasks of cooking and cleaning. Of course

this ideal was rarely matched by reality: labour shortfalls often resulted in

women taking on factory work and, even before that, women often worked

side by side with men in the fields.

As might be expected, the contemporary situation is complex. There are

women who prefer the traditionally neat division of labour. They tend to opt

for shorter college courses, often at women’s colleges. They may work for

several years, enjoying a period of independence before settling down,

leaving the role of breadwinner to the husband and becoming full-time

mums.

While gender discrimination in the workforce is illegal, it remains

pernicious. And while there is less societal resistance to women working,

they still face enormous pressure to be doting mothers. Most women see the

long hours that Japanese companies demand as incompatible with child-

rearing, especially in the early years; few fathers are willing or, given their

own work commitments, able to pick up the slack. Attempts at work-life

balance, such as working from home, can result in guilt trips from colleagues

or bosses. Working women have coined the phrase ‘maternity harassment’ to

describe the remarks they hear in the office after announcing a pregnancy,

the subtle suggestions that she quit so as not to cause trouble. Six out of 10

women quit work after having their first child.

And yet many return: women do in fact make up over 40% of the

workforce – not far off the global average; however, over half of them are

working part-time and often menial, low-paying jobs. They hold only 9.3%

of managerial positions. Women in full-time positions make on average 73%

of what their male counterparts make; up from 60% in the 1990s. Women

also continue to spend far more time on unpaid labour (including childcare

and housework duties): 3¾ hours per day, compared to men’s 40 minutes.

This is among the most dramatic unbalances in the developed world.

Taking all of this into account, the World Economic Forum in its Global

Gender Gap Report for 2018 has given Japan the damning rating of 110 out

of 144 countries – in between Mauritius at 109 and Belize at 111. Far and

away the lowest of any G7 nation (the second-lowest, Italy, is ranked

number 70), Japan scores particularly low in economic participation and

opportunity, and political empowerment.

On the upside: Japanese women have an average life expectancy of 89

years, second only to Monaco.

Arts

Since the early days of the court and during periods of openness, Japan

imported styles, techniques and themes from its nearest Asian

neighbours, China and Korea. During times of retreat, Japan’s artists

refined these techniques, filtered styles through local sensibilities and

tweaked themes to correspond with the times and materials at hand.

The result is a sublime artistic tradition that goes beyond museums and

monumental works, seeping into everyday life.

Above Geisha performing in the Kyō Odori | CHRISTIAN KOBER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Classical Arts

Japan has a long artistic tradition of painting, calligraphy, lacquerware,

ceramics, metalwork and textiles. Lacquerware, in particular, is very old: it’s

believed to go back 7000 years. These are all still very much living arts:

you’ll see historic works in museums, but also the works of contemporary

artists in galleries and department stores, and in high-end restaurants and

teahouses.

Temples are great repositories of Buddhist sculpture, which enjoyed a golden age during the Nara,

Heian and Kamakura eras. Unlike paintings, which are fragile, sculptures are often on public

display.

Shikki (Lacquerware)

Known in Japan as shikki or nurimono, lacquerware is made using the sap

from the lacquer tree (urushi), a close relative of poison oak. Raw lacquer is

actually toxic and causes severe skin irritation in those who have not

developed immunity. Multiple layers of lacquer are painstakingly applied

and left to dry, and finally polished to a luxurious shine; once hardened, it

becomes extraordinarily durable.

Lacquer is naturally clear; pigments such as iron oxide (which produces

vermilion) are added for colour. People in Japan have been using lacquer to

protect and enhance the beauty of wood since at least 5000 BC. During the

Heian period, black lacquerware decorated with gold and silver powder

(called maki-e) became popular with court nobles. More sophisticated

techniques that developed include inlay (such as mother-of-pearl) and

layering different colours then sanding away the top coat to create a worn

appearance ( negoro style).

Famous laquerwareproducing areas include Wajima in Ishikawa Prefecture, where it takes over 100

steps to create pieces that are known for their sturdy elegance, and Okinawa, where the style known

as Ryūkyū-shikki incorporates designs of flowers and dragons more common to Chinese art.

Shodō (Calligraphy)

Shodō (the way of writing) is one of Japan’s most valued arts, cultivated by

nobles, priests and samurai alike, and is still studied by Japanese school

children today as shūji. Like the characters of the Japanese kanji script, the

art of shodō was imported from China. In the Heian period, a fluid, cursive,

distinctly Japanese style of shodō called wayō evolved, though the Chinese

style remained popular in Japan among Zen priests and the literati for some

time.

In both Chinese and Japanese shodō there are three important types. Most

common is kaisho (block-style script). Due to its clarity, this style is

favoured when readability is key. Gyōsho (running hand) is semi-cursive and

is often used in informal correspondence. Sōsho (grass hand) is a truly

cursive style. Sōsho abbreviates and links the characters together to create a

flowing, graceful effect.

HAIKU: JAPAN’S SIGNATURE POETRY

Japan has a rich poetic tradition, and one that was historically social in nature. Poetry groups

would come together to collaborate on long renga (linked verse), with each new verse playing

off some word or association in the one that came before. Renga were composed in a game-like

atmosphere and were more about witty repartee than about creating works to be preserved and

read. Sometime in the 17th century, however, the opening stanza of a renga became accepted as

a standalone poem – and the haiku was born. Today, the haiku is Japan’s most widely known

form of poetry; at just 17 sparse syllables, it is also the shortest.

Matsuo Bashō (1644–94) is considered the master of the form and is Japan’s most famous

poet. He’s also the origin of the popular image of the haiku artist as a Zen-like ascetic figure. In

1689 Bashō left his home in Edo (Tokyo) to embark on a five-month, 2400km walk around

northern Japan – then considered the ends of the earth. He returned to write his most famous

work, Oku no Hosomichi ( The Narrow Road to the Deep North; 1702), a poetic account of his

journey.

Painting

Traditionally, paintings were done in black ink or mineral pigments on washi

(Japanese handmade paper; itself an art form), scrolls (that either unfurled

horizontally or were designed to hang vertically), folding screens or sliding

doors.

Paintings of the Heian era (794–1185) depicted episodes of court life, like

those narrated in the novel Genji Monogatari (The Tale of Genji), or

seasonal motifs, often on scrolls. Works such as these were later called

yamato-e (Yamato referring to the imperial clan), as they distinguished

themselves thematically from those that were mere copies of Chinese

paintings. Gradually a series of style conventions evolved to further

distinguish yamato-e; one of the most striking is the use of a not-quite-

bird’s-eye perspective peering into palace rooms without their roofs (the

better to see the intrigue!).

With the rise of Zen Buddhism in the 14th century, minimalist

monochrome ink paintings came into vogue; the painters themselves were

priests and the quick, spontaneous brush strokes of this painting style were

in harmony with their guiding philosophies.

It was during the Muromachi period (1333–1573) that the ruling class

became great patrons of Japanese painters, giving them the space and the

means to develop their own styles. Two styles emerged at this time; the Tosa

school and the Kano school.

The Tosa clan of artists worked for the imperial house, and were torch-

bearers for the now classic yamato-e style, using fine brushwork to create

highly stylised figures and elegant scenes from history and of the four

seasons; sometimes the scenes were half-cloaked in washes of wispy gold

clouds.

The Kano painters were under the patronage of the Ashikaga shogunate

and employed to decorate their castles and villas. It was they who created the

kind of works most associated with Japanese painting: decorative

polychromatic depictions of mythical Chinese creatures and scenes from

nature, boldly outlined on large folding screens and sliding doors.

Makura no Sōshi ( The Pillow Book; 1002), written by Heian-era ladyin-waiting Sei Shōnagon feels

oddly modern, like a blog, and is a fascinating peek into courtly life at the time.

Pottery Towns

Arita

Bizen

Hagi

Kanazawa

The Tea Ceremony

Chanoyu (literally ‘water for tea’) is usually translated as ‘tea ceremony’,

but it’s more like performance art, with each element – from the gestures of

the host to the feel of the tea bowl in your hand – carefully designed to

articulate an aesthetic experience. It’s had a profound and lasting influence

on the arts in Japan, one that has percolated through all the divergent arts

wrapped up in it: architecture, landscape design, ikebana (flower arranging),

ceramics and calligraphy.

The culture of drinking matcha (powdered green tea) entered Japan along

with Zen Buddhism in the 12th century. Like everything else in monastic life

– the sweeping of the temple grounds and the tending of the garden, for

example – the preparation of tea was approached as a kind of working

meditation. The practice was later taken up by the ruling class, and in the

16th century the famous tea master Sen no Rikkyū (1522–1591) is credited

with laying down the foundations of wabi-sabi – and with raising tea to an

art form.

Wabi roughly means ‘rustic’ and connotes the loneliness of the wilderness,

while sabi can be interpreted as ‘weathered’, ‘waning’ or ‘altered with age’.

Together the two words signify an object’s natural imperfections, arising in

its inception, and the acquired beauty that comes with the patina of time.

Ceramics selected for tea ceremonies were often dented, misshapen or rough

in texture, with drips of glaze running down the edges – and all the more

prized for it. The most famous styles associated with the tea ceremony are

raku, shigaraki and bizen.

The classic chashitsu (teahouse), as established by the old medieval

masters, had an area of 4½ tatami mats, or nearly 7.5 sq metres (though they

could be even smaller). Made of earth and wood, with a thatched roof,

teahouses often look more like hastily thrown-together shelters than

intentional works of art – which was exactly the point. The most rustic

extreme (and the truest embodiment of wabi-sabi) are called sōan, literally

‘grass cottages’. More than just a place to drink tea, a Japanese teahouse is a

distillation of an artistic vision; even today, no architect would turn down a

commission to work on one.

Visitors to a teahouse approach via the roji (‘dewy’ path), formed by

irregular stepping stones. The path represents a space of transition – a place

to clear one’s mind and calm one’s spirit before entering the teahouse. The

doorway is purposely low, causing those who enter to stoop, and thus

humble themselves. All are considered equal inside the teahouse (swords

were to remain outside). Inside, the sole decoration is a spray of seasonal

flowers or leaves and a hanging scroll in the tokanoma (alcove).

Gardens all over Japan have chashitsu (tea houses); in Kyoto, sign up to

experience a tea ceremony.

Shōdo (calligraphy) | HICHAKO_T/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ukiyo-e (Woodblock Prints)

Ukiyo was a play on words: spelt with one set of Chinese characters, it

meant the ‘fleeting world’, our tenuous, temporary abode on earth and a

pivotal concept in Japanese Buddhism for centuries. Change the first

character, however, and you got the homophone, the ‘floating world’, which

was used to describe the urban pleasure quarters of the Edo period. In this

topsy-turvy world, the social hierarchies dictated by the Tokugawa

shogunate were inverted: money meant more than rank, Kabuki actors were

the arbitrators of style and courtesans were the most accomplished of artists.

Ukiyo-e were pictures of this floating world, capturing famed beauties,

pleasure boats and outings under the cherry blossoms. They were also

postcards from the world beyond; at a time when rigid laws prevented much

of the populace from travelling, woodblock prints presented compelling

scenes from around Japan. The famous ukiyo-e artists, Katsushika Hokusai

(1760–1849) and Utagawa Hiroshige (1797–1858) are best known,

respectively, for their series Fifty Three Stations of the Tōkaidō and One

Hundred Famous Views of Edo.

The vivid colours, novel composition and flowing lines of ukiyo-e caused

great excitement when they finally arrived in the West; the French came to

dub it ‘Japonisme’. Ukiyo-e was a key influence on Impressionists and post-

Impressionists (including Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet and Degas). Yet among

the Japanese, the prints were hardly given more than passing consideration –

millions were produced annually in Edo, often thrown away or used as

wrapping paper for pottery.

One of the most famous ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) is The Great Wave by Hokusai (1760–1849),

one of the great masters of the form. It’s on permanent display at the Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum.

20th-Century Modernism

When Japan opened up to the world in the late 19th century, new forms and

ideas came spilling in – oil painting, figurative sculpture, the novel – which

was exciting, but also fraught. A painting tradition with a 1000-year history

was flattened into the catchall term nihonga (Japanese-style painting) as a

foil to the new yōga (Western-style painting). Making art now meant either a

rejection or an embrace of Western influence, a choice that was hard to

divorce from politics.

This shift raised a number of questions: should the old styles stay just

that? And, if not, how could they possibly evolve organically without

addressing the elephant (Western-influence) in the room? Could works in

Western mediums ever transcend mere imitation? And who would be the

new patrons of the arts, now that the old power structures had been

dismantled? Some critics argue that these same questions haunt the arts to

this day.

Literature and film, with their narrative qualities, were perhaps the best

mediums in which to parse the profound disorientation that had settled upon

Japan by the early 20th century. Novels such as Sōseki Natsume’s Kokoro

(1914) and Kawabata Yasunari’s Yukiguni ( Snow Country; 1935–37) address

the conflict between Japan’s nostalgia for the past and its rush towards the

future, between its rural heartland and its burgeoning metropolises. These

are themes still explored today: just watch recent anime hit Your Name.

Film, meanwhile, was as new to Japan as the rest of the world – which

conferred upon the medium an enviable freedom. Ozu Yasujirō (1903–63),

Japan’s first great auteur, created family dramas of grace and depth, looking

at the rapid change that left different generations all but isolated from each

other. His Tokyo Story will break your heart. And it was with film that

Japanese artists first achieved major international recognition in the 20th

century, most notably Kurosawa Akira (1910–98), who won the Golden Lion

at the Venice International Film Festival for the haunting Rashōmon (1950)

and later an honorary Oscar. Kurosawa is an oft-cited influence for film-

makers around the world.

Ikebana (literally ‘living flowers’) is the Japanese art of flower arranging; of key importance is the

suggestion of space and the symbolism inherent in the choice and placement of the flowers and, in

some cases, bare branches. There are classical schools of ikebana and also daring contemporary

artists.

Contemporary Art

The ’90s was a big decade for Japanese contemporary art: love him or hate

him, Murakami Takashi (b 1962) brought Japan back into an international

spotlight it hadn’t enjoyed since 19th-century collectors went wild for ukiyo-

e (woodblock prints). His work makes fantastic use of the flat planes, clear

lines and decorative techniques associated with nihonga (Japanese-style

painting), while lifting motifs from the lowbrow subculture of manga

(Japanese comics).

As much an artist as a clever theorist, Murakami proclaimed in his

‘Superflat’ manifesto that his work picked up where Japanese artists left off

after the Meiji Restoration – and might just be the future of painting, given

that most of us now view the world through the portals of two-dimensional

screens. Murakami inspired a whole generation of artists who worked in his

‘factory’, Kaikai Kiki, and presented their works at his Geisai art fairs.

Murakami might have made the biggest splash, but he was just one of

many artists from the ’90s (and beyond) working to deconstruct Japanese art

history and untangle it from the stubborn legacy of West-centric art

criticism. For example, there’s also Aida Makoto (b 1965), who revels in

resurrecting the rather ribald tradition of ukiyo-e (many were rather racy or

grotesque), creating sometimes shocking works; he also riffs on pop culture,

including Japan’s infatuation with cute mascots.

And there are also artists who have nothing to do with the old styles. The

collective known as ChimPom (http://chimpom.jp), formed by a group of

20-somethings in the mid-aughts, is one of the more daring presences in

Tokyo’s art scene: their conceptual installations directly address (sometimes

confrontationally, often cheekily) contemporary issues in Japanese, and

global, society.

Tokyo is the centre of Japan’s contemporary art world, though Kyoto has

a thriving gallery scene as well. Travellers with a keen interest in

contemporary art will also want to make a trip to Naoshima.

The plots of most modern Japanese horror films can be traced back to the popular kaidan (traditional

horror or ghost stories) of the Edo and Meiji periods.

Manga & Anime

Whole generations have come of age reading classic manga, such as Tezuka

Osamu’s Tetsuwan Atom ( Astro Boy; 1952–68) and Black Jack (1973–83);

Toriyama Akira’s Dragon Ball (1984–95); and Kishimoto Masashi’s Naruto

(1999–2014). Osamu (1928–89) is often known as manga no kamisama (the

‘god of manga’) for having brought a level of artistry and profundity to the

form, raising it above mere pulp. (‘Astro Boy’ is a humanoid robot with

empathetic powers and a champion of robots’ rights.) He was also the first to

draw characters with big eyes; though this look has come to define Japanese

manga and anime, Osamu was in fact influenced by early Disney works (like

Bambi) and the 1930s American cartoon character Betty Boop (animation’s

first pin-up).

An excellent introduction to the art of manga is the Kyoto International

Manga Museum.

Anime has a synergistic relationship with manga: many anime series are

adapted from manga ( Full Metal Alchemist, Death Note and Jojo’s Bizarre

Adventure are great examples; and of course there’s the One Piece animated

series). There are also hugely popular original anime series, like Mobile Suit

Gundam (1979–1980) and Neon Genesis Evangelion (1995–1996), that have

since spawned larger media franchises, including manga series feature-

length movies. Both Mobile Suit Gundam and Neon Genesis Evangelion

belong to the genre of anime and manga called ‘mecha’, meaning they

feature robots.

While anime, like film, can be about anything really, the form has proven

to be particularly outstanding at world-building and imbuing post-humans

and machines with a certain pathos. Classics include Ōtomo Katsuhiro’s

Akira (1988), a psychedelic fantasy set in a future Tokyo (actually 2019);

Ōshii Mamoru’s Ghost in the Shell (1995), with a sci-fi plot worthy of Philip

K Dick involving cyborgs, hackers and the mother of all computer networks;

and the works of Kon Satoshi (1963–2010), such as the Hitchcockian Perfect

Blue (1997), the charming Tokyo Godfathers (2003) and the sci-fi thriller

Paprika (2006).

Studio Ghibli (www.ghibli.jp) is Japan’s most critically acclaimed and

commercially successful producer of animated movies. Its films include

Nausicaä of the Valley of the Winds (1984), My Neighbor Totoro (1988) and

the Oscar-winning Spirited Away (2001), all directed by Miyazaki Hayao. In

2016 Miyazaki announced he was coming out of retirement to make one last

film, to be called How Do You Live? . Based on a 1930s novel of the same

name, it will likely be released in 2020 or 2021.

One new director to watch is Shinkai Makoto: his 2016 Kimi no Na wa

( Your Name) was both a critical and box-office smash – the second-highest-

grossing domestic film ever, after Spirited Away.

Art Festivals

Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale (www.echigo-tsumari.jp)

Sapporo International Arts Festival (http://siaf.jp )

Setouchi Triennale (www.setouchi-artfest.jp)

Yokohama Triennale (www.yokohamatriennale.jp)

Performing Arts

Japan has a rich tradition of performing arts. Above all, there’s kabuki –

Japan’s most famous form of performing arts, known for its exaggerated

poses and fearsome expressions, dramatic stage makeup and boldly coloured

costumes. It is this intensely visual nature and heightened sense of drama

that makes kabuki so appealing to foreign audiences – you don’t really have

to know the story to enjoy the spectacle.

Other forms of traditional theatre that can be seen on Japan’s stages

include nō (an even older form of stylised dance-drama), bunraku (classic

puppet theatre using huge puppets to portray dramas similar to kabuki) and

bugaku (dance pieces played by court orchestras in ancient Japan).

All Studio Ghibli fans will want to make a pilgrimage to the delightful Ghibli Museum in the Tokyo

suburb of Mitaka. A Ghibli theme park is in the works in Nagoya, scheduled to open in 2022.

BUTŌ: AVANT-GARDE DANCE

Butō is Japan’s unique and fascinating contribution to contemporary dance. It was born out of a

rejection of the excessive formalisation that characterises traditional forms of Japanese dance

and of an intention to return to more ancient roots. Hijikata Tatsumi (1928–86), born in the

remote northern province of Akita, is credited with giving the first butō performance in 1959;

Ōno Kazuo (1906–2010) was also a key figure.

During a performance, dancers use their naked or seminaked bodies to express the most

elemental and intense human emotions. Nothing is forbidden in butō and performances often

deal with taboo topics such as sexuality and death. For this reason, critics often describe butō as

scandalous, and butō dancers delight in pushing the boundaries of what can be considered

beautiful in artistic performance. It’s also entirely visual, meaning both Japanese and non-

Japanese spectators are on level footing.

Though performers have toured internationally, in Japan butō has remained a largely

underground scene. Check out Kyoto’s Butoh-kan (www.butohkan.jp) for weekly

performances; top Tokyo-based troupes include Sankai Juku (www.sankaijuku.com) and

Dairakudakan Kochūten (www.dairakudakan.com).

Nō

Nō, which emerged in 14th-century Kyoto, is the oldest existent Japanese

performing art. Its roots are likely older still: nō is believed to be a pastiche

of earlier traditions, including Shintō rites, popular entertainments like

pantomime and acrobatics, and gagaku (the traditional music and dance of

the imperial court).

Rather than a drama in the usual sense of a story in motion, nō seeks to

express a poetic moment by symbolic and almost abstract means: glorious

movements, sonorous chorus and music, and subtle expression. Its principal

aesthetic, yūgen – a kind of gentle and mysterious, yet profound, grace – was

laid down by the dramatist Zeami Motokiyo (1363–1443), who wrote many

of the plays still performed today. Characters speak in the language of the

medieval court.

The nō stage is furnished with only a single pine tree. There are two

principal characters: the shite, who is sometimes a living person but more

often a ghost whose soul cannot rest or a demon; and the waki, who leads the

shite towards the play’s climactic moment.

Haunting masks, carved from wood, are used to depict female and

nonhuman characters. Often they are designed to appear differently when

tilted at varying angles – an effect heightened by the lighting of the stage

(traditionally torch-lit). Many still in use are hundreds of years old (the oil

and sweat from the actors’ faces keeps the wood supple). Adult male

characters are played without masks.

Some viewers find this all captivating; others (including most Japanese

today) find its subtlety all too subtle. As if anticipating this, comic vignettes

known as kyōgen are part of the programs of nō plays, taking the spectator

from the sublime realm to the ridiculous world of the everyday. Using the

colloquial language of the time and a cast of stock characters, kyōgen poke

fun at such subjects as cowardly samurai, depraved priests and faithless

women.

The National Nō Theatre is located in Tokyo and there are several active

schools that occasionally host performances. However, the most evocative

performances are those that are held outside at night, with only torches for

lighting. This style is called takagi-nō; it is often performed at Shintō

shrines. The island of Sado-ga-shima is especially famous for this.

Contemporary theatre is at its most accessible during Tokyo’s month-long theatre festival,

Festival/Tokyo (http://festival-tokyo.jp/en; October to November), which features both domestic and

international productions. Some of these have English subtitles or synopses, while others require no

language ability to appreciate.

Kabukiza theatre, Tokyo | UGIS RIBA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kabuki

Kabuki got its start in Kyoto: around the year 1600, a charismatic shrine

priestess and her entourage began publicly performing a new (and a bit

bawdy) style of dance. People dubbed it kabuki, a slang expression that

meant ‘cool’ or ‘in vogue’ at the time. It was also a gateway to prostitution,

which eventually led the shogunate to ban the female performers.

Adolescent men took their place, though that didn’t solve the problem.

Finally, in 1653, the authorities mandated that only adult men with shorn

forelocks could perform kabuki, which gave rise to one of kabuki’s most

fascinating elements, the onnagata (actors who specialise in portraying

women).

But it was in the urbane circles of Edo that kabuki evolved into what we

think of today. Those exaggerated moves? They’re not-so-subtle references

to the off-duty samurai or the dandyish merchant swaggering around the

pleasure quarters – both characters lifted from everyday life. Kabuki deals in

archetypes; the make-up signals whether a character is good or evil, noble or

ruled by passion. But it is not simplistic: though much gets lost in translation

(even for modern Japanese), many of the plays, and especially the

confrontations, are meant to be funny.

More than by plot, however, kabuki is driven by its actors, who train for

the profession from childhood. In its heyday, kabuki actors outshone even

those swaggering samurai and merchants; they were the ultimate influencers.

Sons (biological or adopted) follow their fathers into a yago (kabuki acting

house); the leading families of modern kabuki (such as Bandō and Ichikawa)

go back many generations. At pivotal moments in a performance, like when

the actors pause in dramatic poses (called mie), enthusiastic fans shout out

the actor’s yago – an act called kakegoe.

See kabuki in Tokyo at Kabukiza or in Kyoto at Minamiza.

Book tickets for kabuki in Tokyo and Kyoto at www.kabukiweb.net. For tickets to traditional

performances ( nō, bunraku) at Japan’s national theatres, go through the Japan Arts Council

(www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english.html).

Bunraku

Like kabuki, bunraku, Japan’s classic puppet theatre, was an art form that

developed during the Edo period. Many of the plays are similar, and in fact

were first written for bunraku and then adopted by kabuki. The most famous

playwright was Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653–1724), who was largely

responsible for popularising the form, especially in Osaka.

The puppets used in bunraku are sophisticated and large – nearly two-

thirds life-sized. They’re manipulated by up to three silent, black-robed

puppeteers. The story is provided by a narrator performing jōruri (narrative

chanting) to the accompaniment of a shamisen (a three-stringed instrument

resembling a lute or banjo). The synchronisation required to pull this off is

incredible.

See bunraku at Osaka’s National Bunraku Theatre.

The novel Geisha in Rivalry (1918), by Nagai Kafu, chronicles the love lives of two Tokyo geisha

with a penchant for drama. Kafu, a notorious dandy, did plenty of on-the-ground research for this

one.

Traditional Music

Japan’s classical music is gagaku, the music played in the court from the 7th

century onward, on the koto (zither) and biwa (short-neck lute), among other

instruments brought over from China. Haunting and ancient-sounding, it is

occasionally performed for the public in national theatres or at Shintō

shrines.

More accessible (and admittedly way more fun), min’yo (folk music) is

usually played on a shamisen (three-stringed instrument resembling a lute or

banjo). Different regions have different styles, and even different structures;

in some areas of Japan (particularly Aomori and Okinawa) you can find bars

and restaurants with spirited live performances. The energetic performances

of the Sado-ga-shima–based taiko (drum) troupe Kodo (www.kodo.or.jp) are

also crowd-pleasers.

Music plays a big part in Japan’s traditional performing arts: nō is

punctuated by taiko and flute music; kabuki and bunraku are accompanied

by shamisen.

Mizoguchi Kenji’s 1936 black-and-white film Sisters of Gion is a riveting portrayal of two very

different sisters working in the famous Kyoto geisha district. The actress Yamada Isuzu, who plays

one of the sisters, was herself the daughter of a geisha.

Living Art of the Geisha

The word geisha literally means ‘arts person’; in Kyoto the term used is

geiko (child of the arts). Though dressed in the finest silks and often

astonishingly beautiful, geisha are first and foremost accomplished

musicians and dancers. On top of that, they are charming, skilled

conversationalists. Kyoto is particularly known for its geisha districts and its

culture of maiko (apprentice geisha), who wear showy kimono, dramatic

makeup and elaborate hairstyles.

Geisha now live a dramatically different life to their predecessors. Prior to

the mid-20th century, a girl might arrive at an okiya (geisha living quarters)

still a young child, and indeed some were sold into service by desperate

families, to work as a maid. Should she show promise, the owner of the

okiya would send her to the kaburenjō (school for geisha arts). She would

continue maid duty, waiting on the geisha of the house, while honing her

skills and eventually specialising in one of the arts, such as playing the

shamisen or dance. Training typically lasted about six years; those who

passed exams would begin work as an apprentice under the wing of a senior

geisha and eventually graduate to full-fledged geisha themselves.

Geisha were often indebted to the okiya who covered their board and

training. Given the lack of bargaining chips that have historically been

afforded women, there is no doubt that many geisha of the past, at some

point in their careers, engaged in compensated relationships; this would be

with a danna (a patron) with whom the geisha would enter a contractual

relationship not unlike a marriage (one that could be terminated). A wealthy

danna could help a woman pay off her debt to the okiya or help her start her

own. Other geisha married, which required them to leave the profession;

some were adopted by their okiya and inherited the role of house mother;

still others worked until old age.

Today’s geisha begin their training no earlier than in their teens – perhaps

after being inspired by a school trip to Kyoto – while completing their

compulsory education (in Japan, until age 15). Then they’ll leave home for

an okiya (they do still exist) and start work as an apprentice. While in the

past, a maiko would never be seen out and about in anything but finery,

today’s apprentices act much like ordinary teens in their downtime. For

some, the magic is in the maiko stage and they never proceed to become

geisha; those who do are free to live where they choose, date as they like and

change professions when they please.

HIGHLIGHTS OF JAPANESE CINEMA

1950s

The golden age of Japanese film. Watch Kurosawa Akira’s Rashōmon (1950); Mizoguchi’s

Ugetsu Monogatari (1953).

1960s

Colour and prosperity arrive. Watch Ozu’s Sanma no Aji ( An Autumn Afternoon; 1962).

1970s

Ōshima Nagisa brings new-wave visual techniques and raw sex. Watch Ai no Korīda ( In the

Realm of the Senses; 1976).

1980s

Imamura Shōhei and Itami Jūzō earn critical success for a new generation. Watch Imamura’s

Narayama Bushiko ( The Ballad of Narayama; 1983); Itami’s Tampopo (1986).

1990s

Actor and comedian Takeshi Kitano emerges as a director of merit and vision. Watch Hana-bi

( Fireworks; 1997).

2000s

Anime and horror flicks are international hits. Watch Miyazaki Hayao’s Sen to Chihiro no

Kamikakushi ( Spirited Away; 2001) and Fukasaku Kinji’s Battle Royale (2000).

2010s

New voices and visions. Watch Shinkai Makoto’s Your Name (2016); Hirokazu Kore-eda’s

Shoplifters (2018).

Architecture & Gardens

Japan’s traditional design aesthetic of clean lines, natural materials,

heightened spatial awareness and subtle enhancement has long been an

inspiration to creators around the world. The country’s contemporary

architects, riffing on old and contemplating the new, are among the

most internationally acclaimed and influential. Since ancient times

landscape design has been inseparable from architecture, and Japan

has a wealth of gardens, both beautiful and meditative.

Traditional Architecture

Japan’s abundant forests were an easy source of wood, which has

historically been the building material of choice. Stone appears in

foundations, bridges or castle ramparts; however, the frequency of

earthquakes in Japan made it an unsuitable material for walls. Other natural

materials also come into play: mulberry bark is fashioned into washi

(Japanese traditional paper), which is employed in varying degrees of

thickness on shōji (sliding wooden doors covered with translucent washi)

and fusama (sliding screens covered with opaque washi, used to partition

rooms and closets); dried reeds are woven into floor mats (tatami) and

window shades.

Traditionally, Japanese constructions use a post-and-lintel system, which,

when combined with the gridlike composition of latticed screens and

tatami-mat floors, give buildings an overwhelmingly rectilinear appearance.

Another hallmark of traditional architecture is a strong roof, with long

overhanging eaves that shelter the verandahs from the elements.

Early architectural styles and techniques were greatly influenced by

Korea and China, and well into the modern era (and possibly still today)

building projects would begin by consulting a geomancer practised in the

art of feng shui. Over the centuries the tastes of various ruling classes have

left their mark, from the austere elegance favoured by the medieval warrior

class to the more ostentatious styles that were in vogue during the Edo

period. Even in the showiest buildings, however, the function of

ornamentation was to draw out the beauty of the structure itself and that of

the materials employed.

A prominent feature of any monumental structure is its mon (gate), which

may be even more impressive than the structures behind it. Gates in Japan

are rich in symbolism: their size and design elements correspond to strict

regulations on rank and importance; in the case of temples or shrines, they

represent the boundary between the sacred and the mundane. It is not

uncommon for a structure to have more than one gate; perhaps counter-

intuitively, the gates are usually freestanding, unconnected to border walls.

Traditional wooden structures were vulnerable to fire and few truly old,

original structures remain – though many reconstructions follow the old

patterns.

Hōryū-ji (607) is commonly believed to have the two oldest wooden structures in the world,

including a 32m-high pagoda. Tōdai-ji’s main hall is among the world’s biggest wooden buildings;

the current structure (1709) is actually only two-thirds of its original 8thcentury size.

Foreign Influences

When Japan opened its doors to Western influence following the Meiji

Restoration (1868), it ushered in new building materials, techniques and

styles. The newly opened port cities, like Yokohama, Kōbe and Hakodate,

with their foreign settlements and influence, acquired many Western-style

buildings, often made of brick or stone. Foreign consulates, corporations

and congregations built structures in the style of their native lands, meaning

a Victorian-style manor might sit next to a Russian Orthodox church,

around the corner from a neo-Baroque bank. Style conventions from any of

the above could be sampled to make a building appear Western.

A century-long push and pull ensued, between enthusiasts and detractors:

architects who embraced the new styles and materials and those who

rejected them. In Tokyo for example – which the government wanted very

much to be a modern showcase city – Tokyo Station (1914), with its brick

facade and domes, looks very much like a European terminus. Meanwhile,

the Tokyo National Museum (1938) was done in what was called the

Imperial Style, a sturdy, modern rendering of traditional design. At the time,

it was also the vogue for the wealthy elite to build hybrid homes, with

Japanese- and European-style wings.

As the mid-20th century approached, the International Style –

characterised by sleek lines, cubic forms and materials such as glass, steel

and brick – arrived in Japan, settling the debate and putting an end (mostly)

to the idea that modern-style (ie Western) buildings needed to incorporate

neo-classical flourishes. This particular style also squared more neatly with

Japan’s own architectural tradition.

Glossary of Traditional Japanese Architecture

fusama

papered sliding screens used to divide space into rooms

hinoki

Japanese cypress; the preferred material for monumental structures

kawara slate roof tile

machiya traditional Japanese townhouse, made of wood and usually of two storeys, with a shop on

the ground floor and living quarters upstairs

mon

main entrance gate of a temple or castle constructed of several pillars or casements,

joined at the top by a multitiered roof

shoin-

style of elegant and refined architecture for the ascendant warrior class, originating in the

zukuri

14th century.

sukiya-

humbler than, though similar to, shoin-zukuri; shabby-chic style that developed in

zukuri

tandem with the tea ceremony in the 16th century

shōji

movable wooden screens, covered with mulberry paper, used as doors

tatami

mats of woven reeds that cover the floors in traditional Japanese buildings; the size is

codified and area is often measured by the number of mats

torii

Shintō shrine gate composed of two upright pillars, joined at the top by two horizontal

crossbars, the upper of which is normally slightly curved; often painted a bright

vermilion

Modern Icons

Modern Japanese architecture really came into its own in the 1960s. The

best known of Japan’s 20th-century builders was Tange Kenzō (1913–

2005), who was influenced by traditional Japanese forms as well as the

aggressively sculptural works of French architect Le Corbusier. One of his

early commissions was the Hiroshima Peace Center and Memorial Park

(1955). He also designed the National Gymnasium built for the 1964 Tokyo

Olympics – a structure that looks vaguely like a samurai helmet and uses

suspension-bridge technology – and later the Tokyo Metropolitan

Government Offices (1991), a looming complex with the silhouette of a

Gothic cathedral.

Concurrent with Tange were the ‘metabolists’, Shinohara Kazuo,

Kurokawa Kishō, Maki Fumihiko and Kikutake Kiyonori. The Metabolism

movement promoted flexible spaces and functions at the expense of fixed

forms in building. Design-wise, they were a radical bunch who produced a

number of fascinating sketches and plans, the majority of which went

unbuilt. One that did go up is Kurokawa’s Nakagin Capsule Tower (1972),

an apartment complex in Tokyo, with apartments designed as pods that

could be removed whole from a central core and replaced. Maki, the most

realistic of the group, went on to have a celebrated career; his buildings,

which make use of new and varied materials, have a geometric, uncentred

composition. Tokyo’s Spiral Building is a great example.

A pagoda ( to) is a tower with stacked eaves, each one smaller than the one below. It is a style of

Buddhist architecture that evolved in China from the Indian stupa, which originally functioned as a

reliquary. Wooden pagodas may be anywhere from one to seven storeys tall.

TEMPLE OR SHRINE?

Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines were historically intertwined, until they were forcibly

separated by government decree in 1868. But centuries of coexistence means the two resemble

each other architecturally; you’ll also often find small temples within shrines and vice versa.

The easiest way to tell the two apart is to check the gate: the main entrance of a shrine is a torii

(gate) of two upright pillars, often painted red; a temple mon (main entrance gate) is often a

much more substantial affair, with eaves, either natural wood or decoratively painted. Temple

gates often contain guardian figures, usually Niō ( deva kings).

Contemporary Architecture

Since the 1980s a new generation of Japanese architects has emerged who

continue to explore both modernism and postmodernism, while mining

Japan’s architectural heritage. Among the more influential ones are Tadao

Ando (b 1941) and Itō Toyō (b 1941). Ando’s works tend to be grounded

and monumental, yet unobtrusive, with no unnecessary flourishes; he works

in modern materials such as concrete and steel. He has many works in

Tokyo and also on Naoshima.

Itō’s designs are lighter and more conceptual, meditating on the ideas of

borders between inside and outside, public and private. Among his

signature works is the Sendai Mediatheque. Two of his protégés, Sejima

Kazuyo and Nishizawa Ryūe, went on to form the firm SANAA. Their own

luminous form-follows-function creations have also been influential. See

their work at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa

and the other-worldly Teshima Art Museum.

Another name to know is Kengo Kuma, who has received many high-

profile commissions over the last decade, including the new stadium for the

Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Kengo is famous for his use of wood, employing

cutting-edge computer drafting technology to mould that age-old staple of

Japanese construction.

In 1917 Frank Lloyd Wright, a noted Japanophile, visited Japan, bequeathing it six structures and a

bevy of disciples schooled in the principles of modernism. Many Meiji-era structures, including

part of Wright’s original design for the Imperial Hotel (rebuilt in 1967), can be seen at Meiji-mura,

outside Nagoya.

Landscape Design

Flowering plants are only one component of the Japanese garden, which

may be composed of any combination of vegetation (including trees, shrubs

and moss), stones of varying sizes, and water. Some gardens are not limited

to that which falls within their walls, but take into account the scenery

beyond (a technique called shakkei or ‘borrowed scenery’). Often they are

meant to evoke a landscape in miniature, with rocks standing in for famous

mountains of myth or Chinese literature; raked gravel may represent

flowing water. Garden elements are arranged asymmetrically and shapes,

such as the outline of a pond, are often irregular. The idea is that the garden

should appear natural, or more like nature in its ideal state; in reality most

gardens are meticulously maintained – and entirely by hand.

Gardens may be designed as spaces of beauty, for leisure and

entertainment purposes, or they might be a designation of sacred space

(most fall somewhere in between). The white gravel that appears in some

temple gardens is rooted in Shintō tradition: there are gravel courtyards at

Ise-jingū, which dates to the 3rd century and is considered Japan’s most

sacred spot.

Kare-sansui: ‘Dry’ Landscape Gardens

Equally iconic and enigmatic, kare-sansui are gardens composed of rocks

and raked gravel. They may also have moss or shrubbery, but there is no

water element and none of the lushness that you might associate with

gardens. They are designed to be viewed from a single vantage point –

usually that of an adjacent hall; this style is known as kanshō

(contemplation garden). Kare-sansui gardens are rooted in the culture of the

Zen monastery. Monks would meditate on them and in them – as tending to

the garden was also considered a form of meditation. Some bear a

resemblance to nature scenes depicted in monochrome ink wash paintings;

the garden of 15 stones at Kyoto’s Ryōan-ji is famously abstract (and, like

Zen, resists interpretation). Kyoto is the best place in Japan to see kare-

sansui.

Garden Books

Zen Gardens and Temples of Kyoto

(John Dougill; 2017)

The Art of the Japanese Garden

(David and Michiko Young; 2005)

Japanese Stone Gardens

(Stephen Mansfield; 2009)

Strolling Gardens

Strolling gardens ( shūyū) are meant to be entered and viewed from multiple

vantage points along a meandering path. This style falls towards the leisure

end of the spectrum and can often be found on imperial or feudal estates. In

the Edo period, kaiyū (many pleasure) gardens came into fashion; these

were like several gardens in one, set around a central pond. Such gardens

have a number of interesting architectural elements, such as bridges, which

may be a graceful sloping arch or a simple slab of stone, and pavilions,

which were created as places for rest or for moon-viewing. Some may

employ a technique called shin-gyō-sō (formal-semiformal-informal; the sō

is the same as in sōan, the ‘grass cottage’ of the teahouse), meaning the

garden takes on a more and more intimate feeling as the visitor heads

deeper. The ideal garden is designed to be attractive in all seasons, though

most are associated with a particular time of year (be it the blooming of the

azaleas in April or the turning of the maples in November).

Environment

Stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk to the South China Sea, the

Japanese archipelago is a fantastically diverse place. Few countries

enjoy such a variety of climates and ecosystems, with everything from

coral-reefed islands to snow-capped mountains. And few feel nature as

acutely as Japan, which sits on the Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, where

earthquakes and volcanic eruptions are not uncommon. It’s also a

crowded country, where much of the land bears the imprint of human

activity.

The Land

Japan has four main islands: Honshū (the largest, slightly smaller than

Britain, and where the majority of the population lives), Hokkaidō (the

second largest and northernmost), Kyūshū (the southernmost) and Shikoku

(the smallest). These make up 95% of the country’s landmass. In addition,

there are some 6848 smaller islands. The archipelago stretches from

northern Hokkaidō in the north at 45°N, (comparable to Montreal) to the

southernmost of the Ryūkyū Islands, of which Okinawa is the largest, at

around 25°N (comparable to Miami).

Japan identifies very strongly as a shima-guni (island nation), defined by

its geographical independence and historical reliance on the ocean for both

food and travel. Literally everywhere else in the world is referred to in

Japan as kaigai (overseas). Within Japan, or rather specifically Honshū, the

central spine of mountains is another sort of border. The large population

centres are all located on the Pacific Coast. Until the last century regions on

the other side of the mountains, the Sea of Japan side, were considered

more remote and isolated, connected only by the Kitamae-bune, the trading

ships that made a circuit of the coastal ports around the country. (Now

tunnels make easy work of getting through the mountains).

It’s estimated that 1500 or so earthquakes happen annually in Japan. Most go unfelt, though gentle

rocks that can be felt are not uncommon. The last truly devastating earthquake to occur was the

9.0-magnitude Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011, the fourth-largest earthquake recorded in

modern history.

Ring of Fire

Situated along the ‘Ring of Fire’, Japan occupies one of earth’s most

seismically active regions, which has deeply shaped both its geography and

culture and continues to impact these today. Japan has 10% of the world’s

active volcanoes. Within Japan, Central Honshū is among the most active.

Most of Japan’s mountain ranges run parallel to the basic northeast to

southwest direction of the island chain, but running through the middle of

Central Honshū – almost at right-angles to the standard ranges – is the

Fossa-Magna Tectonic Line (Fossa-Magna means great rift, and it’s

essentially a wide crack). This clash in the direction of the fault lines has

produced the highest mountains in Japan, including the North, Central and

South Alps. Central Honshū is home of all 21 of Japan’s 3000m-plus peaks,

including the volcanoes Fuji (which last erupted 300 years ago, but is now

considered dormant), Ontake and Norikura. While the country’s volcanoes

are actively monitored and fatalities rare, an unexpected eruption of

Ontake-san in Nagano killed 56 hikers in 2014.

Snow Country

In winter parts of Japan get extreme levels of snow. And yet, Sapporo, the

country’s northernmost city, sits at 43° North, the same latitude as Marseille

in the south of France. So why all the snow? Winter weather and storms

tend to come from the northwest, from frigid regions of Siberia and

northern China. The cold air picks up moisture as it passes over the Sea of

Japan, hits the land and the mountainous spine of Honshū, where the

moisture-laden air is forced up to become even colder. This causes snow to

fall heavily, particularly on the Japan Sea side of the mountains, in western

Hokkaidō, the western side of Tōhoku, Nagano, the North Alps (the highest

mountains) and along the Hokuriku coast – the areas where all the ski

resorts are located. Japan calls the stretch on Honshū’s Sea of Japan coast

from Fukui to Aomori yukiguni (snow country). Here snow can get so deep

that the ploughed roads feel like canyons, and buildings have a separate

entrance on the second floor for use in winter. By contrast, Tokyo and other

cities on the Pacific coast rarely have snow on the ground in winter.

Japan is home to the three snowiest major cities: Aomori is tops with an annual average of 790cm;

Sapporo comes in second, with 485cm (a city of nearly two million, it has winter living down to a

science); Toyama is third, with an average of 363cm of snow per year.

Wildlife

The latitudinal spread of Japan’s islands makes for a wide diversity of flora

and fauna. The Nansei and Ogasawara archipelagos in the far south are

subtropical, and flora and fauna in this region are related to those found on

the Malay peninsula. Mainland Japan (Honshū, Kyūshū and Shikoku)

shows more similarities with Korea and China, while Hokkaidō shares

many features with Russia’s nearby Sakhalin Island. For more information

on wildlife in Japan, visit the website of the Biodiversity Center of Japan at

www.biodic.go.jp.

Animals

Land bridges to the Asian continent allowed the migration of animals from

Korea and China (and in Hokkaidō from Sakhalin). There are also species

that are unique to Japan, such as the Japanese serow (described as a goat-

antelope, with short horns and bushy coats; rather cute) and the Japanese

macaque (some of whom famously enjoy soaking in onsen). In addition, the

Nansei archipelago, which has been separated from the mainland for longer

than the rest of Japan, has a few examples of fauna that are classified by

experts as ‘living fossils’, such as the Iriomote cat, found only on Iriomote-

jima.

Japan’s largest carnivorous mammals are its bears. Two species are found

in Japan: the higuma (brown bear) of Hokkaidō, and the tsukinowaguma

(Asiatic brown bear or ‘moon bear’ because of the white crescent on its

chest) of Honshū, Shikoku and Kyūshū. Though not frequent, bear attacks

do occur and hikers typically attach bells to their packs to ward them off.

The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural

Resources (IUCN) ‘Red List’ currently tallies 36 critically endangered and

104 endangered fauna species in Japan, including Blakiston’s fish eagle, the

widely consumed Japanese eel, the red-crowned crane (an imperial emblem

and symbol of longevity in Japan) and the Iriomote cat (critically

endangered). The majority of the critically endangered species are located

in the Ogasawara Islands, a remote island chain in the Pacific that’s

something like Japan’s own Galapagos.

Plants

The flora of Japan today is, for the most part, not what the Japanese saw

hundreds of years ago. The cool-to-temperate zones of central and northern

Honshū and southern Hokkaidō were once home to broad-leaf mixed

deciduous forests. While roughly two-thirds of the country remains

forested, natural forests make up only a fraction of that; the rest is planted

forest, mainly of cedar and cypress, which have long been key materials in

traditional architecture. It is also thought that 200 to 500 plant species have

been introduced to Japan since the Meiji period, mainly from Europe, but

also from North America.

The subtropical islands of Yakushima and Iriomote are part of the Nansei

archipelago, which extends southwest from Kyūshū. The islands stand out

for their largely untouched landscapes; Iriomote, in particular, is a mostly

unexplored primordial jungle, home to numerous endemic plants. At the

other end of the country, at the northeastern tip of Hokkaidō, Shiretoko

National Park is home to old-growth temperate and sub-alpine forests of

Erman’s birch, Sakhalin fir and Mongolian oak.

National Parks

In 1931 Japan laid the groundwork for its national park system and today

has 34 national parks, ranging from the far south (Iriomote National Park)

to the northern tip of Hokkaidō (Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park),

plus 57 awkwardly titled quasi-national parks. National parks cover 5.5% of

Japan’s landmass and are administered by the Ministry of the Environment.

Including quasi-national parks and prefectural national parks, the total

amount of protected land extends to 14.3%. The two most recently added

parks are the Yambara National Park (2016), a sub-tropical forest on the

northern end of Okinawa-hontō, and the Amami Guntō National Park

(2017), comprising the Amami Islands chain, south of Kyūshū.

Unlike national parks in some other countries, the ones in Japan are not

entirely government-owned land – the system was far too late for that.

Shintō shrines, in particular, laid claim to many of Japan’s mountains long

ago. National parks also contain towns, farmland, onsen resorts, industry –

anything really. Much of the land that is government-owned land is forested

and instead overseen by the Forestry Agency (rather than the Ministry of

the Environment). A convoluted multi-tier system is used to regulate

development in such a way as to minimise environmental impact to varying

degrees.

For descriptions of Japan’s parks, see www.env.go.jp/en/np.

Environmental Issues

Energy & Emissions Post Fukushima

Japan is a high consumer of energy – ranked number five in the world; it is

also the world’s fifth biggest carbon-emitter. The country has historically

invested heavily in nuclear power: it has 42 reactors and at its peak, nuclear

was producing 30% of Japan’s energy. Then the 2011 Great East Japan

Earthquake hit, unleashing a tsunami that overwhelmed the seaside six-

reactor Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear power plant. The flooding knocked out

backup generators which resulted in a catastrophic loss of essential cooling

capacity, causing a core meltdown in three reactors. The incident was

classified as a level seven ‘major disaster’ on the scale used by the

International Atomic Energy Agency – the same level as Chernobyl.

The real scope of the environmental and public health impact is largely

still unknown. While it is thought that much of the toxic radioactive

material remains contained on-site, a significant amount of radiation was

initially dispersed in a plume to the northwest. As late as 2018, reports of

leakages from the containment vessels were continuing to make headlines,

suggesting the situation is far from stabilised. That same year, the

government reported one death (the first of its kind) linked to the disaster: a

plant worker who had been measuring radiation levels outside shortly after

the incident and later died of lung cancer. Much of the initial 20km

exclusion zone is still off-limits.

Though the central government promoted nuclear power as clean,

sustainable and safe, following the meltdown in Fukushima there was

significant push back from the public and local governments. In a country

that tends to shy away from outright activism, this was a rare and forceful

outcry. The reactors were taken offline and revamped safety measures were

adopted. In the meantime, Japan resorted to burning more coal and by 2013

emissions were up by 14%, though they have since returned to pre-2011

levels. As of 2018, Japan had five reactors online and the ruling party had

made clear its intention to bring the plants back; a 2016 public opinion poll

showed a majority of Japanese oppose this decision.

Japan is only now seriously looking at making renewable energy happen.

Though the country signed on to the 2016 Paris Agreement, pledging to cut

emissions by 26% by 2030, it’s largely the private sector that is leading the

way.

Kamikatsu (pop 1580), a village on the island of Shikoku, has committed to becoming zero-waste.

Food waste is already 100% composted and so far 80% of other waste is recycled, sorted into 45

different categories.

Whaling

Commercial whaling was banned by the International Whaling Commission

(IWC) in the 1980s, but exemptions exist for scientific research and

subsistence hunting by indigenous communities. For decades, the Japanese

government funded the Japan Institute of Cetacean Research (JICR), which

conducted expeditions in the name of science in the Southern Ocean. Critics

have long questioned the actual scientific aims of the program; in 30 years

the research led to no notable discoveries and afterwards meat was sold on

the commercial market. In 2014 the International Court of Justice ruled that

Japan’s whaling program was not scientific and ordered Japan to cease

whaling; it did not. In 2018, Japan declared that it was leaving the IWC

altogether and would resume commercial whaling in July 2019, a rare post-

WWII example of the country exiting a major international organisation.

The government’s stance is that whale populations have sufficiently

recovered to the point where a controlled level of whaling should be

permissible. Japan will cease its Antarctic missions and will instead hunt

whales only in its own waters in select coastal areas, including: Abishiro

and Hakodate (in Hokkaidō), Ayukawa (in Ishinomaki, Miyagi prefecture),

Wadaura (in Chiba prefecture), Taiji (on the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama

prefecture) and Shimonoseki (in Yamaguchi prefecture in western Honshū).

Three species will be hunted in limited numbers: Bryde’s, minke and sei.

Sei whales are classified as endangered on the International Union for

Conservation of Nature’s Red List; the others are not.

Proponents of whaling in Japan claim that the country has a long history

of whaling, and accuse opponents of cultural imperialism. Certain

communities, like Taiji, have a documented history of hunting whales.

Shimonoseki is the port from where the Antarctic missions departed and is

the home district of prime minister Abe Shinzō.

Whale consumption in Japan peaked in the two decades following WWII,

when it was a major source of protein for a nation starved by war. For this

reason, some elderly Japanese feel fondly towards it. But consumption

levels today are so low that much of the whale meat presented at auction

goes unsold. Both whale and dolphin meat are known to have high levels of

mercury.

Japan’s local whaling traditions have come under fire since the release of

the documentary The Cove (2009), by American producer Fisher Stevens.

The film focuses on the annual dolphin hunt in Taiji, during which pods of

dolphins are herded into a cove and either slaughtered for meat or sold to

aquariums. It won the Academy Award for best documentary feature that

year, drew attention to the region’s whaling culture in general and brought a

steady stream of activists to tiny Taiji (pop 3500). A more recent

documentary, A Whale of a Tale (2018), by director Megumi Sasaki, who

was born in Japan but lives in the US, looks at Taiji since The Cove, giving

voice to both the local fishermen and the activists.

Japan’s Construction Addiction

In the post-war period, Japan invested heavily in infrastructure; before then,

many mountain villages didn’t have paved roads, let alone tunnels and

bridges that made easy work of connecting them to major hubs. Hillsides

prone to landslides were shored up and riverbanks prone to flooding were

encased in concrete. In a country long plagued by disasters, such measures

made sense, and carried with them a sense of progress. They also provided

comparatively lucrative new jobs for a rural population that had hitherto

been eking out an existence in agriculture, fishing or forestry. But at some

point, the projects became less about sensible infrastructure improvements

and more about holding on to those jobs.

Rural areas yield enormous power in Japanese politics, as representation

is determined more by area than by population. In order to ensure the

support of their constituencies, rural politicians often take to lobbying for

government spending on public-work projects – to keep jobs in their areas.

And the government obliges: the rural vote has kept the ruling Liberal

Democrat Party in power for most of the post-war period. As a result, Japan

is number four in the world in dam construction and state-of-the-art bridges

loom over depopulated villages. Alex Kerr writes extensively on this

phenomenon in his 2001 book Dogs and Demons.

Many rural communities are now looking to tourism as a potential new

source of jobs. It’s a sad irony that the much heralded projects of the last

century can now be seen as detractors, marring what might otherwise be

more impressive natural scenery.

SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL IN JAPAN

As a traveller, you can minimise your impact on the Japanese environment in several simple

ways.

Refuse packaging At the cash register, you can say: Fukuro wa irimasen (I don’t need a bag),

or just hold up a reusable shopping bag to show you’ve already got one.

Carry your own chopsticks Buy a pair of hashi (chopsticks) with their own carrying case from

a convenience store that you can wash in your accommodation to avoid relying on the

disposable ones many restaurants use.

And your own water bottle Japanese tap water is potable so bring your own bottle to fill up.

Kettles are standard in accommodations, so bring a thermos too and make tea or coffee to go.

Less tuna and eel, please Limit your consumption of seafood threatened by over-fishing, such

as unagi (eel) and maguro (tuna) – including toro (fatty tuna belly).

Use public transport Japan’s public transport system is among the best in the world; there’s

little reason not to use it. Many guesthouses and even some tourist information centres offer

bike rentals (often for free).

Skip vending machines While ubiquitous vending machines are part of Japan’s urban identity,

they eat up a considerable amount of energy.

Sport

Sumo, steeped in ancient ritual, is Japan’s national sport. While it has

its devout followers, it’s baseball that is the clear fan favourite; soccer is

popular, too. Martial arts have a following among both spectators and

participants, and get a boost every four years during the Olympics, as

Japan excels at judo. Interest in sports in general is at a high, as Japan

hosts the Rugby World Cup in 2019 and Tokyo hosts the Summer

Olympics in 2020.

Sumo

Japan’s national sport is a ritualistic form of wrestling that developed out of

ancient Shintō rites for a good harvest. Two large and amply muscled men,

clothed only in mawashi (loin cloths) with their hair slicked back into a

topknot, battle it out in a packed earth dōyo (ring) over which hangs a roof

that resembles that of a shrine. Before bouts, which typically last only

seconds, the rikishi (wrestlers) rinse their mouths with water and toss salt

into the ring – both purification rituals. They also perform the shiko

movement, where they squat, clap their hands and alternately raise each leg

as high as it can go before stamping it down – a show of strength and agility.

Tournaments (bashō) are held over a 15-day period, six times a year.

These are all-day events, marked as much by pageantry as by sport. Doors

open at 8am for the early matches that take place between junior wrestlers.

The stakes (and pageantry) begin in earnest in the afternoon, when the

makuuchi (top tier) wrestlers enter the ring wearing decorative keshō-

mawashi aprons, followed by the yokozuna (the top of the top), complete

with sword-bearing attendants. Many spectators skip the morning, arriving

around 2pm or 3pm. The final, most exciting, bouts of the day (featuring the

yokozuna) finish around 6pm.

Sumo Events

Tokyo: January, May and September

Osaka: March

Nagoya: July

Fukuoka: November

SUMO MOVES

Size is important in sumo, but woe betide any rikishi who relies solely on bulk as, more often

than not, it’s kimari-te (wrestling techniques) that win the day. There are 82 official kimari-te a

rikishi may legitimately employ, including:

Abisetaoshi Using body weight to push an opponent backwards to the ground.

Oshidashi Pushing underneath an opponent’s arms or in the chest to force him out of the ring.

Oshitaoshi Pushing an opponent to the ground either inside or outside the ring.

Shitatenage Tackling an opponent by grabbing inside his arms.

Tsukiotoshi Grabbing an opponent underneath the arm or on his side and forcing him down at

an angle.

Uwatenage Grabbing an opponent’s mawashi from outside the opponent’s arms and throwing

him to the ground.

Uwatedashinage As above but also dragging an opponent.

Yorikiri Lifting an opponent out of the ring by his mawashi.

Moves that will get a wrestler disqualified include punching with a closed fist, boxing ears,

choking, grabbing an opponent in the crotch area and pulling hair.

Baseball

The Japanese call it yakyū; it was introduced in 1873 by Horace Wilson, an

American teacher in Tokyo. Games are played between April and October

across the country in two pro leagues (Central and Pacific; www.npb.or.jp),

each with six teams sponsored by big businesses. The victors in each league

then duke it out in the end-of-season, seven-match Japan Series. The most

successful team by a wide margin is Tokyo-based Yomiuri Giants, who have

35 Central League and 22 Japan Series titles to their name. In Kansai, the

Hanshin Tigers are the hometown favourite. Other major cities with teams

include Sapporo, Sendai, Nagoya, Hiroshima and Fukuoka. Regardless of

your interest in baseball, it’s worth catching a game just to watch the fans,

who engage in elaborately choreographed cheering.

Sumo contestant | MEEH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Martial Arts

Although they have their roots in the combat techniques honed over

centuries by samurai and other warrior styles, the martial arts that are most

closely associated with Japan today developed in the modern era. These

gendai budō (modern martial arts) aim for self-improvement and self-

protection rather than aggression. In Tokyo, tournaments are often held in

the Nippon Budōkan (日本武道館; %03-3216-5100; www.nipponbudokan.or.jp; 2-3

Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; bHanzōmon line to Kudanshita, exit 2) (literally ‘Martial Arts

Hall’) the arena built to host the judo competitions in the 1964 Tokyo

Summer Olympics.

Aikido

Developed in the early 20th century, this form of self-defence combines

elements of judo, karate and kendō so that the practitioner uses, rather than

opposes, an adversary’s attack through techniques such as throws and

controls. Tokyo’s Hombu-dōjō is the headquarters of the International

Aikido Federation (www.aikikai.or.jp); they offer beginner classes and

longer training courses.

Kendō

An evolution of kenjutsu (the art of sword fighting), kendō is a sport whose

practitioners use shinai (blunt bamboo swords) and bōgu (light body

armour). The sport is governed by the All-Japan Kendo Federation

(www.kendo.or.jp).

Judo

An Olympic sport since 1964, judo (literally meaning ‘the gentle way’) is a

wrestling style of martial art that developed at the end of the 19th century

from the more harmful jujitsu fighting school. The controlling body is the

Tokyo-based All-Japan Judo Federation (www.judo.or.jp); check their

website for information on tournaments. The Kodokan Judo Institute

(http://kodokanjudoinstitute.org/en) has training centres in Tokyo and Osaka; the former has a hostel at which recommended students can stay.

Karate

Meaning ‘empty hand’, karate came to mainland Japan from Okinawa and is

a fusion of an Okinawan martial art known as ke and Chinese martial arts.

Practitioners study kata (forms) and also engage in kumite (sparring). Today

there are various styles of karate, with the Japan Karate Association

(www.jka.or.jp) representing the most popular Shokotan tradition. The

association’s dōjō (practice hall) in Tokyo welcomes visitors who wish to

join training sessions.

Five new sports were approved by the International Olympic Committee for inclusion in the 2020

Tokyo Summer Games: karate, skateboarding, surfing, climbing and – back for the first time since

2008 – baseball and softball. Two were added for the Paralympics: badminton and taekwondo.

Soccer

Japan has had a professional soccer league (J-League; www.j-league.or.jp)

since 1993. There are 18 clubs in the premier J1 division; the season runs

March to October with top teams competing for the J-League Cup. On the

national stage, the men’s team made their World Cup debut in 1998 (losing

all their games), but they’ve since made it to the quarter finals three times

(most recently in 2018). More impressive is the women’s team, nicknamed

Nadeshiko Japan ( nadeshiko meaning the feminine ideal). They won the

2011 Women’s World Cup (defeating the US) and in 2015 came in second

(losing to the the US).

Traditional Accommodation

A hotel is a hotel wherever you go. And while some of Japan’s hotels

are very nice indeed, staying in traditional-style accommodation offers

an added cultural experience. Sleeping on futons (quilt-like mattresses),

soaking in an o-furo (Japanese-style bath, often communal) or starting

your day with grilled fish and rice are all opportunities to connect a

little deeper with Japan. Options include ryokan (traditional inns),

minshuku (traditional guesthouses) and shukubō (temple lodgings).

Ryokan

Ryokan (旅館) is the Japanese word for inn, but now refers specifically to a

lodging where the majority of rooms are arranged in the traditional

Japanese fashion, with tatami mats and futons (instead of beds). Beyond

that simple definition, ryokan can vary widely. They can be rambling old

wooden buildings that look straight out of a ukiyo-e (woodblock) print.

Atmosphere-wise these are tops, though they do come with some

drawbacks: facilities are often shared, luggage will have to be hauled

upstairs, walls may be thin and the corridors drafty.

Others are modern concrete structures, which are more likely to have

lifts, en suite bathrooms and a few rooms with beds (sometimes including a

wheelchair-accessible room). While they may disappoint on first glance,

contemporary ryokan can be beautifully designed inside. Or not: some

really are just like ordinary, basic hotels where the rooms happen to be

Japanese-style. Particularly luxurious ryokan (old and new) will have

doting staff dressed in kimono. Some ryokan have onsen baths and beautiful

gardens.

Another distinguishing feature of a ryokan is that they typically serve

meals, both dinner and breakfast. In both cases the meal is a set course,

using local ingredients, served in either a dining room or in your room.

Meals can be quite lavish, similar to kaiseki (traditional haute cuisine) with

numerous small dishes, and often outshine what is available in local

restaurants. Though it is possible to book ryokan without meals, most

guests do choose to eat in their lodgings, considering the meal part of the

experience. (Ryokan are also often located in areas with few restaurants that

are open outside of lunch hours).

The most basic ryokan can cost as little as ¥8000 per person (including

meals) or ¥5000 without meals. For something with more amenities or

charm, expect to pay between ¥12,000 and ¥20,000 per person – though

truly luxurious ryokan can cost much, much more. Prices are based on

double occupancy; ryokan sometimes charge a surcharge for single

travellers, which varies greatly (from ¥1000 to near the cost of double

occupancy). Per-person rates also go down slightly when rooms are used by

three or four people.

Best Ryokan

Tawaraya , Kyoto

Nishimuraya Honkan, Kinosaki Onsen

Tsuru-no-yu Onsen, Nyūtō Onsen

Arai Ryokan, Shuzen-ji Onsen

Hōshi Onsen Chōjūkan, Minakami

Minshuku

Minshuku (民宿) are family-run private lodgings, rather like B&Bs in

Europe or the USA. Rooms are typically smaller and simpler than those

found in ryokan; en suite facilities are rare. Service is less formal, and much

more a reflection of the inn owners’ personality than Japan’s exacting

standards of hospitality. At some minshuku you may find yourself expected

to lay out and put away your own bedding. Meals are simpler and more like

home-cooking. Prices per night per person with two meals typically run

from ¥5500 to ¥7500, or ¥3500 to ¥5000 without meals (again based on

double occupancy; expect a small surcharge for single travellers).

Many minshuku are not on popular booking sites and require direct

booking; in rural areas, local tourist information centres can often help,

though note that it is often not possible to get dinner with same-day

bookings.

According to government statistics there are roughly 40,000 ryokan in Japan; however the number

decreases each year. Many young Japanese prefer the anonymous convenience of hotels; costly

maintenance expenses for older buildings and inheritance taxes are also a factor.

Shukubō

S hukubō (宿坊) are lodgings offered at Buddhist temples. Historically they

were created for pilgrims or official visitors to the temple, but these days

many accept casual travellers. Shukubō vary tremendously in style and

amenities: some are downright luxurious (rivalling high-end ryokan), while

others offer bare tatami rooms (either communal or private) with shared

facilities; most fall somewhere in between, or offer rooms of various

grades. Many – though not all – shukubō allow visitors to observe the

monks’ morning prayer rituals.

Temples typically follow strict timelines and guests are expected to

follow them: you may need to check in by a certain time, bathing times may

be limited and there may be a curfew. The food served in shukubō is

shōjinryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), which can be an excellent part of

the experience (and a boon for vegetarians!). Breakfast is often served early,

after morning prayers. There are shukubō all over Japan, though they can be

difficult to find without some Japanese language ability.

The most popular destination for shukubō is the mountain monastery

complex Kōya-san, in Wakayama Prefecture (Kansai), about two hours by

train south of Osaka. There are over 50 shukubō here and some are

especially accommodating towards overseas guests, with English-speakers

who can explain some of the monks’ practices and beliefs. There are some

quite beautiful temples here, too, with peaceful gardens. All rooms are

private and prices are fixed: the minimum charge is ¥9720 per person

including breakfast and dinner, and goes up from there (depending on the

class of room and meals). Some places charge extra for solo travellers;

others do not. For a list of temple accommodations in Kōya-san, visit

Koyasan Shukubo Association (http://eng.shukubo.net).

At Kōya-san, temples offer guests few more experiences than attending

morning prayer services (some also offer seated meditation sessions or sutra

copying). For a more rigorous experience, look into the Sanzen Experience

Program, which includes four days (three nights) of ‘proper’ monk life at

Daihonzan Eihei-ji, a Zen Buddhism temple in Fukui. Note that here

lodgings are communal and separated by gender.

NEED TO KNOW

Reservations A reservation is really a must, even if it’s just a quick call a few hours before

arriving. One easy way to do this is to have your present accommodation call ahead and

reserve your next night’s lodging.

Food If you have any dietary restrictions (or foods you wish to avoid) be upfront about this at

the time of booking. Places that regularly welcome foreign guests may be able to

accommodate certain requests, but others may not. If you’d prefer to forgo meals entirely,

most inns offer sudomari (staying only) rates, but bear in mind that there may be no

restaurants nearby. Traditional accommodations do not offer cooking facilities.

Luggage With the exception of higher-end ryokan, most traditional accommodations expect

you to handle your own bags and, if you’re staying in an older building, this will mean stairs.

Ideally, your luggage should be carried (rather than rolled) to protect the floors, but if there is

carpet laid down, roll away! Luggage should never be placed in the tokonoma (sacred alcove),

usually decorated with a scroll. To avoid all this, consider packing a small overnight bag and

sending your larger luggage on to your next destination, using Japan’s new ‘hands-free’ travel

service (www.jnto.go.jp/hands-free-travel). Alternatively, if you’ll be backtracking, some accommodation will hold your bags for you overnight after check-out, allowing you to pick

them up the next day.

Staying in Traditional Accommodation

Certain unspoken rules and rhythms apply to all traditional

accommodations, be they simple minshuku, high-end ryokan or shukubō.

First things first: your shoes will come off at the entrance (called the

genkan); the shoes-off zone is usually marked by a step. Most likely there

will be slippers lined up for you to change into. At smaller, casual places,

there will be a shelf or cupboard for you to stash your shoes (or, barring

that, just leave them neatly to the side). At fancier places, you can just step

out of your shoes and staff will whisk them away. The slippers are for use in

the corridors and are not to be worn on tatami (socks are okay). There will

be separate slippers inside the toilet facilities; don’t forget to slip back into

your regular slippers on the way out! Given all this sharing of slippers, most

guests prefer to wear socks.

For Japanese guests, a ryokan is a destination in and of itself, and as a

result, most will check-in as early as possible (usually 3pm). Most places

(ryokan, minshuku and shukubō) expect you to check-in by 6pm, unless you

have arranged otherwise. Some request payment up front, others expect you

to settle the bill at check-out (and many places will only take cash). After

signing in (yes, by hand), you’ll be escorted to your room and perhaps

given a basic tour of the inn on the way, showing you where the baths and

dining rooms are located. Staff will most likely enter the room with you, to

show you where the robes and towels are stashed. If you’ve reserved meals,

the staff may then ask what time you would like them. Dinner is typically

early, at 6 or 7pm; breakfast is usually sometime between 7am and 8.30am.

The vast majority of traditional inns, regardless of whether they have en

suite facilities, will have communal baths separated by gender. Inns that see

a significant number of overseas guests may be an exception, having

instead several small baths that can be used privately. The same etiquette

rules apply as at public baths: wash yourself first in the shower area and

then soak in the tub. Many Japanese guests will head right to the bath upon

check-in. Soaking in the hot tubs can be uncomfortable after a big meal and

especially after alcohol (be warned that this might have a dizzying effect).

All lodgings in Japan (save hostels) supply sleepwear and at ryokan and

minshuku this will be a yukata, a light, cotton kimono-like robe ( shukubō

are more likely to supply some kind of pyjamas). Don’t be insulted if you’re

given one marked extra large – they’re sized by length, not by girth! Put it

on over your underwear, left over right; women might want to wear a

camisole, as the robes tend to creep open on top. Men typically tie the obi

(sash) low on their hips while women tend to secure it snugly high at the

waist. You can wear the yukata anywhere around the inn: to and from the

baths and during meals (though of course this is optional). At some onsen

resort towns, guests wear them around town as well, while going from

bathhouse to bathhouse.

Directory A-Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Media

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Japan gets mixed marks in terms of accessibility, or what is called bariafurī (barrier free; バリアフ

リー) in Japanese. You’ll find most service staff will go out of their way to be helpful, even if they

don’t speak much English. In cities, train stations usually have lifts and station staff will help you on

and off the train with a temporary slope. Rural stations are harder to navigate.

Across the board, newer buildings are likely to have access ramps and wheelchair-accessible

toilets. Major sights are often accessible, even if not obviously so: shrines and temples, for example,

often have back entrances with ramps. That said, what is considered ‘accessible’ at many sights

might still mean steep slopes or long gravel paths.

A fair number of hotels, from the higher end of midrange and above, offer a barrier-free room or

two (book well in advance); note that what constitutes barrier free is not always consistent, so check

the details carefully. Should you decide upon arrival that a wheelchair (車いす; kuruma isu) would

be helpful, hotel staff can help you rent one.

Some downsides: many neighbourhoods in Japanese cities lack pavements, and restaurants are

often too cramped to accommodate diners in wheelchairs. Look for shōtengai (商店街; market

streets), which are often pedestrian-only, covered arcades; most cities have them.

Accessible Japan (www.accessible-japan.com) is the best resource; they also produce an ebook with lots of detail.

Download Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel.

PRACTICALITIES

Smoking Many cities (including Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto) prohibit smoking in public spaces

except within designated smoking areas. From October 2019, smoking in Tokyo will be

banned inside all bars and restaurants that employ staff (other than family), unless they can

provide an air-tight smoking area – the strictest regulations in the country to date; elsewhere

smoking is permissible inside bars and restaurants unless specifically prohibited by the

establishment.

Weights & Measures Japan uses the metric system.

Accommodation

Japan offers a wide range of accommodation, from cheap guesthouses to first-class hotels, and

distinctive Japanese-style ryokan (traditional inns) and minshuku (guesthouses). Advance booking is

highly recommended, especially in major tourist destinations.

Reservations

A Hotel and hostel bookings can be made online in English through booking sites and often directly

from your lodging’s homepage.

A Some traditional accommodation can also be easily booked online; others not so. Email is the next

best bet, though you may have to call directly.

A Many smaller, independent inns and hostels offer slightly better rates if you book directly, rather

than through a booking site.

A For hotels of all classes, rates can vary tremendously and discounts significantly below rack rates

can be found online. Many hotels offer cheaper rates if you book two weeks or a month in advance.

A Not all tourist information centres can make bookings, but the ones in smaller towns and cities,

where finding accommodation might be challenging, usually can. Note that these can close as early

as 5pm in rural areas.

Booking Services

Jalan (www.jalan.net) Popular Japanese discount accommodation site, searchable in English.

Japanese Inn Group (www.japaneseinngroup.com) Bookings for ryokan and other small, family-

run inns.

Japanican (www.japanican.com) Booking site for foreign travellers run by JTB, Japan’s largest travel agency; good for hotel and transport packages.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/japan/hotels) Reviews, recommendations and bookings.

Accommodation Styles

APARTMENT RENTALS

Apartment rentals ( minpaku) are strictly regulated in Japan. Very few places are currently able to

meet the requirements to qualify. Those that appear on sites like AirBnB have completed the proper

registration process. Options may increase in the near future, as more and more operators are able to

get their paperwork through the approval process.

BUSINESS HOTELS

Functional and economical, business hotels have compact rooms, usually with semidouble beds

(140cm across; roomy for one, a bit of a squeeze for two) and tiny en suite bathrooms. If cost

performance is your chief deciding factor – and you don’t plan to spend much time in your room –

then a business hotel is your best bet.

They’re famous for being deeply unfashionable, though many chains have updated their look in

recent years. Expect to pay from ¥8000/12,000 for single/double occupancy (more in cities like

Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto).

Business hotels are usually clustered around train stations. Reliable chains include cheap and

ubiquitous Toyoko Inn (www.toyoko-inn.com/eng) and Dormy Inn

(www.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english), which has some extra amenities like large communal baths, as well as in-room showers.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room for hotels, and per person without meals for

ryokan. Unless otherwise stated, the national 8% consumption tax is included in the price, but

note that some hotels quote exclusive of taxes.

¥ less than ¥6000 (less than ¥8000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

¥¥ ¥6000 to ¥15,000 (¥8000 to ¥25,000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

¥¥¥ more than ¥15,000 (more than ¥25,000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

CAMPING

Japan has a huge number of campgrounds (キャンプ場; kyampu-jō), which are popular with students

and families during the summer holidays; as such, many campgrounds are only open July through

September. They’re typically well maintained with showers and barbecue facilities. JNTO has a list

of recommended campgrounds: www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-804.pdf.

Camping is also possible year-round (when conditions permit) at campgrounds – often more basic

– in the mountains or around certain mountain huts. During summer holidays reservations are a good

idea; otherwise you can usually just show up and register at the office. The fee is usually around

¥500 to ¥1000 per person or per tent.

‘Guerrilla’ or unofficial camping in rural Japan is not something we encourage unless you’re able

to work out where would be permissible by speaking with locals. Never set up camp on a river bed,

as Japan is prone to flash floods.

CAPSULE & CABIN HOTELS

Capsule hotels offer a space the size of a single bed, with just enough headroom for you to sit up –

like a bunk bed with more privacy: there’s usually a curtain to seal off the entrance in addition to

walls on three sides. Older capsule hotels have large communal baths (in which case visitors with

visible tattoos are not allowed to stay); newer ones, geared more towards international travellers,

often just have showers. Prices range from ¥3500 to ¥5000.

They’re a neat experience as an alternative to a hostel, but bear in mind capsule hotels are not

ideally set up for multiple-night stays. Most will allow you to stay consecutive days if you book and

pay upfront, without having to check out and back in. They do, however, want you and your stuff to

be out of the capsule for a few hours, usually around noon, when cleaning staff roll through. You can

put your stuff in one of the lockers (typically big enough for a backpack); larger suitcases can usually

be held at the front desk.

Some places will let you opt out of cleaning services, in which case you won’t have to move out.

Though, as capsules lack security, you might want to put your stuff in the locker anyway.

Cabin hotels are a new concept, falling somewhere in between capsule hotels and business hotels:

they’re not bunked so you have room to stand, but the ‘door’ is only a sliding curtain; facilities are

shared. Price-wise, they also fall in between (¥5500 to ¥8000). The same caveats about cleaning time

and security apply here.

In both capsule and cabin hotels, floors and facilities are sex-segregated and front-desk service is

typically limited.

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out

http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/japan. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

HOSTELS

Japan has an extensive network of hostels. These include official Japan Youth Hostel (JYH;

www.jyh.or.jp/e/index.php) properties, as well as a growing number of independent, often quite

stylish, hostels.

JYH lodgings are usually tightly run ships: guests are expected to check in between 3pm and 8pm

or 9pm and there may be a curfew of 10pm or 11pm. Check-out is usually before 10am and

dormitories may be closed between 10am and 3pm. Bath time is usually between 5pm and 9pm,

dinner is between 6pm and 7.30pm, and breakfast is between 7am and 8am.

The price for members is usually around ¥3000 for a dorm room (around ¥3600 for nonmembers);

a one-year membership costs ¥2500. Most of these hostels serve meals that are usually quite good

and excellent value (about ¥1000 for dinner and ¥500 for breakfast); however, as meals are prepared

in-house, kitchens are usually closed to guests. See the website for a list of properties and

information on membership.

Independent hostels have a more laid-back atmosphere, with more flexible check-in times and no

curfew (though less quality control). Staff, often travellers themselves, usually speak good English

and are good sources of local information. These hostels usually don’t provide meals so will have an

open kitchen. Prices are similar to those charged by official hostels, sometimes even a bit cheaper.

Among the more popular are the K’s House (https://kshouse.jp/index_e.html) and J-Hoppers (http://j-

hoppers.com) groups.

Hostels supply bedding, which you may need to make up yourself. Most are dorm-style but some

have tatami rooms with futons. There will usually be some private and family rooms, too (costing

about ¥1000 extra per person). Towels can be hired for about ¥100; basic toiletries (soap and

shampoo) may or may not be supplied.

RIDER HOUSES

A rider house (ライダーハウス; raidā hausu) is bare-bones budget accommodation reserved for

travellers on two wheels, usually on the outskirts of town. Nicer ones are similar to youth hostels; at

the most basic, you might get a spare futon in a shed. Prices vary, but ¥1500 per person per night is

about average. It’s a good idea to have a sleeping bag, though you can ask to rent bedding from the

owner. For bathing facilities, you will often be directed to the local sentō (public bath).

Many have been running for decades and have a devoted following. They can be a little tricky to

find at first, as there’s little information out there in English; but stay in one and you can tap into the

local network of motorcyclists and cyclists, who can help you work out where to stay next.

Rider houses are most common in Hokkaidō, but there are some all over. Though it’s in Japanese,

the website Hatinosu (www.hatinosu.net/house) has info and a map of rider houses around Japan. As

they’re small they can fill up fast, so it’s wise to call ahead during summer. Not all are open year-

round, especially those in Hokkaidō.

TRADITIONAL ACCOMMODATION

A night (or several) in traditional accommodation is a highly recommended experience; in many rural

areas, they might be the only lodgings in town. Types of accommodation include ryokan (traditional

inns), minshuku (traditional guesthouses) and shukubō (temple lodgings). Sleeping is on futons and

tatami mats; most provide two meals – breakfast and dinner – of local cuisine. Note that traditional

accommodation tends to charge per person rather than per room; prices (including two meals) range

from about ¥6000 for a simple minshuku to ¥12,000 or more (and possibly a lot more) for a night and

two meals in a ryokan.

Climate

Japan is prone to disasters: earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanic eruptions. Sophisticated early-

warning systems and strict building codes do much to mitigate impact, but are not foolproof.

Hot and humid summers present a real risk of heat stroke. Typhoon season runs from July to

October (though may hit earlier or later). Severe typhoons can cause transportation delays or even

shutdowns; at their worst, they can cause deadly flash floods and landslides.

Japan Meteorological Agency (www.jma.go.jp) Real-time weather and disaster warnings and up-to-date info concerning on-the-ground conditions in English.

JNTO Safety Tips (www.jnto.go.jp/safety-tips) Primer on what to do in the event of a disaster. Their app is clunky, but offers searchable and location-enabled weather and disaster alerts from the Japan

Meteorological Agency, plus downloadable ‘communication cards’ with key phrases to help you get

information in the event of an emergency.

Customs Regulations

A Japan has typical customs allowances for duty-free items; see Visit Japan Customs

(www.customs.go.jp) for more information.

A Stimulant drugs, which include ADHD medication Adderall, are strictly prohibited in Japan.

Narcotics (such as codeine) are controlled substances; in order to bring them for personal medical use

you need to prepare a yakkan shōmei – an import certificate for pharmaceuticals. See the Ministry of

Health, Labour & Welfare’s website (www.mhlw.go.jp/english/policy/health-

medical/pharmaceuticals/01.html) for more details.

A Pornography that clearly shows genitalia is illegal in Japan.

A To bring a sword out of the country, you will need to apply for a permit; reputable dealers will do

this for you.

Electricity

The Japanese electricity supply is an unusual 100V AC. Appliances with a two-pin plug made for use

in North America will work without an adaptor, but may be a bit sluggish. Tokyo and eastern Japan

are on 50Hz, and western Japan, including Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka, is on 60Hz.

DISCOUNT CARDS

Seniors Many sights in Japan offer discounted entry to seniors (usually over the age of 65). A

passport is usually sufficient proof of age.

Students Discounts for students are common at sights though foreign cards – even the

International Student Identity Card – are recognised inconsistently. A Japanese-university-

issued student card will always work, and is the only one that qualifies for student fares on

trains and ferries.

Embassies & Consulates

Australian Embassy (%03-5232-4111; https://japan.embassy.gov.au; 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri; bNamboku line to Azabu-jūban, exit 2)

Australian Consulate (%06-6941-9271; www.japan.embassy.gov.au; 16th fl, Twin 21 MID Tower, 2-1-61 Shiromi, Chūō-ku, Osaka; bNagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi line to Osaka Business Park, exit 4)

Canadian Embassy (カナダ大使館; %03-5412-6200; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/japan-japon;

7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; bGinza line to Aoyama-itchōme, exit 4)

Chinese Embassy (%03-3403-3388; www.china-embassy.or.jp; 3-4-33 Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku;

h9am-noon Mon-Fri; bHibya line to Hiro-o, exit 3)

Chinese Consulate (中華人民共和国駐大阪総領事館; %06-6445-9481; http://osaka.china-

consulate.org/jpn; 3-9-2 Utsubo-Honmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka; bChūō line to Awaza, exit 9)

French Embassy (%03-5798-6000; www.ambafrance-jp.org; 4-11-44 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; h9am-11.30am Mon-Fri; bHibiya line to Hiro-o, exit 1)

German Embassy (%03-5791-7700; https://japan.diplo.de; 4-5-10 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; h8am-11am Mon-Fri; bHibiya line to Hiro-o, exit 1)

German Consulate (%06-6440-5070; www.japan.diplo.de; 35th fl, Umeda Sky Bldg Tower East, 1-1-88-3501 Ōyodo-naka, Kita-ku, Osaka; dJR Osaka, north central exit)

Irish Embassy (%03-3263-0695; www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/japan; Ireland House, 2-10-7 Kōji-machi,

Chiyoda-ku; h10am-12.30pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri; bHanzōmon line to Hanzōmon, exit 4)

Netherlands Embassy (%03-5776-5400; www.netherlandsandyou.nl; 3-6-3 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; bHibiya line to Kamiyachō, exit 1)

Netherlands Consulate (%06-6484-6000; www.netherlandsandyou.nl; 8b, Kitahama Itchōme Heiwa

Bldg, 1-1-14 Kitahama, Chūō-ku, Osaka; bSakai-suji line to Kitahama, exit 29)

New Zealand Embassy (%03-3467-2271; www.nzembassy.com/japan; 20-40 Kamiyama-chō,

Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

New Zealand Consulate (%06-6373-4583; www.mfat.govt.nz; Umeda Centre Bldg, 2-4-12

Nakazaki-nishi, Kita-ku, Osaka; bTanimachi line to Nakazakichō, exit 4, dHankyū Umeda)

Russian Embassy (%03-3583-4445; https://tokyo.mid.ru/web/tokyo-en; 2-1-1 Azabudai, Minato-ku; 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 3)

South Korean Embassy (%03-3452-7611, emergency 090-1693-5773; http://overseas.mofa.go.kr/jp-

ko/index.do; 1-2-5 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; h9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri; bNamboku line to

Azabu-Jūban, exit 1)

South Korean Consulate (駐大阪大韓民国総領事館; %06-6213-1401; http://jpn-osaka.mofa.go.kr; 2-3-4 Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku, Osaka; bMidō-suji line to Namba, exit 14)

UK Embassy (%03-5211-1100; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-tokyo; 1 Ichibanchō, Chiyoda-ku; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; bHanzōmon line to Hanzōmon, exit 3A)

US Embassy (米国大使館; %03-3224-5000; http://japan.usembassy.gov; 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; bGinza line to Tameike-sannō, exits 9, 12 & 13)

US Consulate (%06-6315-5900; https://jp.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/osaka; 2-11-5 Nishi-Tenma, Kita-ku, Osaka; dJR Tōzai line to Kita-Shinchi, exit 1)

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard main meal.

¥ less than ¥1000 (less than ¥2000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

¥¥ ¥1000 to ¥4000 (¥2000 to ¥5000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

¥¥¥ more than ¥4000 (more than ¥5000 in Tokyo and Kyoto)

Health

Japan enjoys a high level of medical services, though unfortunately most hospitals and clinics do not

have doctors and nurses who speak English. Even for those that do, getting through reception can still

be challenging. Enlist your accommodation’s help to call ahead.

Even paid in full, the cost of medical care in Japan is low compared to countries like the US.

Expect to pay about ¥3000 for a simple visit to an outpatient clinic and from around ¥20,000 and

upwards for emergency care.

Insurance

The only insurance accepted at Japanese clinics and hospitals is Japan-issued health insurance;

however, they cannot refuse treatment for lack of insurance. For any medical treatment you’ll have to

pay up front (credit cards are accepted at hospitals and may or may not be accepted at local clinics)

and apply for reimbursement when you get home.

Medical Checklist

A Pharmacies in Japan carry very few recognisable foreign brands. Local substitutes of common

medication such as ibuprofen and cough syrups are available, though the dosages may be less than

what you’re used to.

A Though no prescription is necessary, thrush pessaries are only stocked behind the counter (you’ll

have to ask) and many pharmacies don’t carry them.

A Condoms and feminine hygiene products can be purchased at pharmacies.

Medical Services

Every city neighbourhood or town has at least one primary care clinic. Called naika (内科), these are

often small – sometimes run by just one doctor – and are considered the first point of contact for

common, non-urgent complaints, such as rashes, sinus infections, gastric upsets and the like. For

additional care, the doctor can refer you to a specialist.

There is no requirement in the Japanese system to register with a particular primary care doctor or

clinic. Most naika accept walk-ins; in fact, many do not take appointments. Be prepared to wait and

note that most close for several hours during the early afternoon.

24-hour care is available at major hospitals.

Tap Water

Tap water is fine to drink in Japan; in some rural areas, locals swear by its health benefits.

Insurance

Basic emergency coverage is adequate. Worldwide travel insurance is available at

www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access

Decent wi-fi is standard in accommodation in Japan (though exceptions exist). Many cities and even

some prefectures and villages have free wi-fi networks; however, public signals are often weak

and/or patchy. Some convenience stores, shopping centres and attractions also have wi-fi. To avoid

having to sign up and log in to multiple networks, download the Japan Connected (www.ntt-

bp.net/jcfw/en.html) app, which gives you access to all partner networks.

Some travellers do manage to get by solely on free wi-fi, but many find it too inconsistent. If

staying connected is a priority (and it can be very useful to have online-access navigation apps),

consider renting a pocket internet device, which can be shared among multiple devices.

Japan Wireless (www.japan-wireless.com) Pocket wi-fi rentals at reasonable prices and with reliable service; pre-order online.

Legal Matters

Japanese police have extraordinary powers compared with their Western counterparts: they have the

right to detain a suspect without charging them for up to 48 hours. If the police can convince a judge

of sufficient cause, they can detain you for a further 10 days (which can be extended for an additional

10 days). Bail is rarely granted.

You have the right to remain silent and the right to a lawyer. Note that police may begin

questioning before a lawyer is present. If you do find yourself in police custody, you should first

insist on speaking to your embassy and refuse to cooperate in any way until you are allowed to make

such a call. Insist that a tsuyakusha (interpreter) be summoned (this is best, even if you can speak

Japanese).

Japan takes a particularly hard-line approach to narcotics possession, with long sentences and fines

even for first-time offenders. Japan has very strict drunk driving laws: the legal limit is 0.03% BAC.

Note that it is a legal requirement to have your passport (or, if you are staying longer than 90 days,

your resident card) on you at all times. Though checks are not common, if you are stopped by police

and caught without it, you could be hauled off to a police station to wait until someone fetches it for

you.

JAPAN HELPLINE

Japan Helpline (%0570-000-911; 24 hours) is an all-purpose, English-language information

hotline for problems large and small; for data users, contact them via the web form online at

jhelp.com.

LGBT+ Travellers

LGBT+ travellers are unlikely to encounter problems in Japan. There are no legal restraints on same-

sex sexual activities here, apart from the usual age restrictions.

Outright discrimination is unusual; however, travellers have reported being turned away or grossly

overcharged when checking into love hotels with a partner of the same sex. Such discrimination is

illegal, but is rarely litigated.

One thing to keep in mind: Japanese people, regardless of their sexual orientation, do not typically

engage in public displays of affection.

Tokyo has the largest gay and lesbian scene, centred around the neighbourhood Shinjuku-nichōme

(‘Nichōme’ for short), followed by Osaka (centred in Dōyama-chō). Though there have been signs in

recent years of growing acceptance, outside of these safe spaces many LGBT+ people in Japan

remain fearful of the potential social and economic ramifications of living publicly out.

To keep up to date with issues concerning Japan’s LGBT+ community, and to learn about events

and meet-ups, follow Nijiro News (@nijinews) on twitter. Utopia Asia (www.utopia-asia.com) is also a great resource.

Akta Community Centre (%03-3226-8998; http://akta.jp; 301 Nakae bldg No 2, 2-15-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h6-10pm Thu-Mon; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) Free AIDS tests,

counselling and any other information you might need, in Tokyo’s Shinjuku-nichōme.

Media

Free Magazines English-language magazines made by and for the expat community, like Tokyo

Weekender (www.tokyoweekender.com) and Kansai Scene (www.kansaiscene.com), can be good sources for events listings and dining and drinking recommendations; look for them at TICs and

popular foreigner hangouts.

Newspapers The Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp), sold at convenience stores, train-station

kiosks and select hotels, is Japan’s long-running independent English-language daily. Also see Asia

& Japan Watch (www.asahi.com/ajw), the online, English-language portal for Japan’s just left-of-centre newspaper, the Asahi Shimbun, for news and commentary.

Radio Bilingual DJs on Tokyo’s InterFM (76.1FM; www.interfm.co.jp) do news broadcasts and

public service announcements in English; in Kansai, tune into multilingual FM Cocolo (76.5FM;

www.cocolo.jp).

TV NHK World (www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld), the English-language version of Japan’s national

broadcaster NHK, has lots of shows on travel and food in addition to domestic and international

news; watch it online or in select hotels.

Money

The currency in Japan is the yen (¥). The Japanese pronounce yen as ‘en’, with no ‘y’ sound. The

kanji for yen is 円. With the exception of the ¥5 coin, all coins and banknote values are noted in

Roman numerals.

Yen denominations:

¥1 coin; lightweight, silver colour

¥5 coin; bronze colour, hole in the middle

¥10 coin; copper colour

¥50 coin; silver colour, hole in the middle

¥100 coin; silver colour

¥500 coin; large, silver colour

¥1000 banknote

¥2000 banknote (rare)

¥5000 banknote

¥10,000 banknote

ATMs

Only a few branches of major Japanese banks – the big two are Sumitomo Mitsui (SMBC) and

Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ (MUFG) – have ATMs that accept foreign-issued cards; there will be a sign in

the window if the bank has an international ATM. Otherwise, even bank ATMs that display Visa and

MasterCard logos only work with Japan-issued versions of these cards.

The easiest place to get cash in Japan is at one of the country’s ubiquitous 7-Eleven convenience

stores. Their Seven Bank (www.sevenbank.co.jp/english) ATMs consistently work with foreign-issued Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Plus, Cirrus, Maestro and Union Pay cards; have

instructions in English; and are available 24 hours.

Other convenience-store chains have international ATMs, but Seven Bank is the most user-

friendly.

Japan Post Bank (ゆうちょ銀行; www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/en/ias/en_ias_index.html) ATMs, found inside post offices and sometimes at train stations, also accept most foreign-issued cards and

have English instructions. The downside is that they have opening hours that are only slightly longer

than regular post-office hours.

There is a withdrawal limit of ¥100,000 per transaction at Seven Bank ATMs (and ¥50,000 at

Japan Post Bank ATMs). Bear in mind that your bank or card company may impose an even stricter

limit; if your card is rejected, this might be the reason why.

Credit Cards

More places in Japan accept credit cards than they used to, and now many bookings can be paid for

online. Businesses that do take credit cards will often display the logo for the cards they accept. Visa

is the most widely accepted, followed by MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club. Foreign-

issued cards should work fine.

Note that Japanese tend not to use credit cards for small or sundry purchases; some shops and

restaurants have a minimum purchase requirement (of maybe ¥3000 or ¥5000 to use a card).

Exchanging Money

Major banks and post office main branches can usually exchange US, Canadian and Australian

dollars, pounds sterling, euros, Swiss francs, Chinese yuan and Korean won.

MUFG operates World Currency Shop (www.tokyo-card.co.jp/wcs/wcs-shop-e.php) foreign-

exchange counters in major cities that can handle a broader range of currencies, including Taiwan,

Hong Kong, Singapore and New Zealand dollars. In all cases, you’ll need to show your passport.

Note that you receive a better exchange rate when withdrawing cash from ATMs than when

exchanging cash or travellers cheques in Japan.

International Transfers

Western Union (www.wujapan.com) has counters in most major cities.

Opening Hours

Note that some outdoor attractions (such as gardens) may close earlier in the winter. Standard

opening hours:

Banks 9am to 3pm (some to 5pm) Monday to Friday

Bars 6pm to late, with no fixed closing hour

Boutiques noon to 8pm, irregularly closed

Cafes vary enormously; chains 7am to 10pm

Department stores 10am to 8pm

Museums 9am or 10am to 5pm; often closed Monday

Post offices 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday

Restaurants lunch 11.30am to 2pm; dinner 6pm to 10pm; last orders taken about half an hour before

closing

Post

Japan Post (JP; www.post.japanpost.jp) is reliable, efficient and, for regular postcards and airmail letters, not markedly more expensive than in other developed countries. Even the smallest towns have

post offices. Look for the symbol: a red T with a bar across the top on a white background (〒).

Mail can be sent to, from or within Japan when addressed in English (Roman script). If you want

to ship purchases back, boxes are available for purchase at post offices. When presenting a package

for shipping, staff will ask if there is a letter ( tegami) inside, which will raise the shipping rate

slightly.

Public Holidays

When a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the following Monday is taken as a holiday. If that Monday

is already a holiday, the following day becomes a holiday as well. Note that while only 1 January is

an official public holiday, most venues will remained closed (or with reduced hours) through 3

January.

Ganjitsu (New Year’s Day) 1 January

Seijin-no-hi (Coming-of-Age Day) Second Monday in January

Kenkoku Kinem-bi (National Foundation Day) 11 February

Tennō Tanjōbi (Emperor’s Birthday) 23 February

Shumbun-no-hi (spring equinox) 20 or 21 March

Shōwa-no-hi (Shōwa Emperor’s Day) 29 April

Kempō Kinem-bi (Constitution Day) 3 May

Midori-no-hi (Green Day) 4 May

Kodomo-no-hi (Children’s Day) 5 May

Umi-no-hi (Marine Day) Third Monday in July

Yama-no-hi (Mountain Day) 11 August

Keirō-no-hi (Respect-for-the-Aged Day) Third Monday in September

Shūbun-no-hi (autumn equinox) 22 or 23 September

Taiiku-no-hi (Health-Sports Day) Second Monday in October

Bunka-no-hi (Culture Day) 3 November

Kinrō Kansha-no-hi (Labour Thanksgiving Day) 23 November

Safe Travel

The biggest threat to travellers is Japan’s general aura of safety. It’s wise to keep up the same level of

caution and common sense that you would back home.

A In certain nightlife districts with underground sex and/ or drug industries, travellers may be

harassed or solicited. These include Roppongi and Kabukichō (Tokyo), Susukino (Sapporo) and

Nakasu (Fukuoka).

A Avoid touts or anyone who offers to ‘help’ you in such neighbourhoods, as the end result may be

extortion.

A In the event of a non-emergency situation, in which you would like to consult with the police, call

%9110.

Taxes & Refunds

Japan’s consumption tax is 8% (rising to 10% in October 2019). Many retailers (often noted by a

sticker in English on the window) offer duty-free shopping for purchases totalling more than ¥5000.

Only visitors on tourist visas are eligible; you’ll need to show your passport.

Some shops will simply not charge you consumption tax at the point of sale. Others – particularly

department stores – will charge you and then require you to go to the store’s tax refund counter to get

the money back; a small service fee may be deducted for this process.

Airports in Japan do not handle tax refunds so you do need to sort it out at the time of purchase. A

form will be affixed to your passport then, which you’ll simply hand over to customs officials at the

airport when you depart.

For details, see https://tax-freeshop.jnto.go.jp.

GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot

spots.

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smartraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-traveladvice)

US State Department (http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/country.html) Telephone

The country code for Japan is %81. Regional area codes vary from two to four digits (and always

begin with a ‘0’); the total number of digits for landline numbers will always be 10, and 11 for

mobile and IP phone numbers.

Mobile phone numbers start with %090, 080 or 070; IP phone numbers with %050; and toll-free

numbers with %0120, 0070, 0077, 0088 and 0800.

When dialling Japan from abroad, dial the country code (%81), drop the initial ‘0’ and then dial the

rest of the number.

Mobile Phones

Prepaid data-only SIM cards for unlocked smartphones are widely available and can be purchased at

kiosks in the arrival halls at Narita, Haneda, Kansai and New Chitose airports, and also from

dedicated desks at major electronics retailers like Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera. You can

reserve ahead online or purchase on arrival.

Two safe bets are the Japan Travel SIM (https://t.iijmio.jp/en) and Japan Welcome SIM

(https://wow-j.com/en/sim_wifi). Getting the SIM to work may require some fiddling with settings,

so make sure you’ve got a connection before you leave the counter. Staff usually speak some English.

Currently only Mobal (www.mobal.com) offers SIMs that give you an actual phone number from which to make and receive calls; they offer English-language support and can ship to your

accommodation. Otherwise, the variety is huge, and which provider to go with depends on the length

of your stay and how much data you need.

Many mid- to high-end hotels in cities around Japan offer complementary Handy phones, which

you can use free of charge for data and calls. For a list of properties that provide this service, see

www.handy.travel.

Public Phones

Japan still has many public phones – a crucial lifeline when disasters wipe out the mobile network.

Ordinary public phones are green; those that allow you to call abroad are grey and are usually

marked ‘International & Domestic Card/Coin Phone’. Public phones are most commonly located

around train stations.

Local calls cost ¥10 per minute; note that you won’t get change on a ¥100 coin. The minimum

charge for international calls is ¥100, which buys you a fraction of a minute – good for a quick

check-in but not economical for much more. Dial %001 010 (KDDI), %0061 010 (SoftBank Telecom)

or %0033 010 (NTT), followed by the country code, area code and local number. There’s very little

difference in the rates from the different providers; all offer better rates at night. Reversecharge

(collect) international calls can be made by dialling %0051.

Time

All of Japan is in the same time zone: nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Sydney

and Wellington are ahead of Japan (by one and three hours, respectively), and most of the world’s

other big cities are behind: (London by nine, New York by 14 hours and Los Angeles by 17). Japan

does not observe daylight saving time.

Toilets

A The word for toilet in Japanese is toire (トイレ, pronounced ‘to-ee-rey’) but many prefer to use the

more politely evasive o-te-arai (お手洗い; wash room) or keshōshitsu (化粧室; powder room).

A Japan has few actual public toilets; most people prefer the privately maintained ones provided by

train stations, tourist attractions, department stores, convenience stores and malls, which tend to be

nicer.

A Toilets are typically marked with generic gendered pictograms; but just in case, note the characters

for female (女) and male (男).

A Newer or recently redeveloped buildings may have ‘multi-functional’ (多機能; takinō) restrooms;

these large, separate rooms are wheelchair accessible, may have nappy-changing or ostomate

facilities, and are gender-neutral.

A Increasingly, Japan’s toilets are western-style ( yōshiki; 洋式), often with fancy bidet features (these

are called ‘washlets’); however, you may still encounter a traditional squat toilet ( washiki; 和式),

especially in rural areas. When using a squat toilet, the correct position is facing the hood.

A Toilet paper is usually present, but it’s still a good idea to have a packet of tissues on hand.

A Paper towels and hand dryers may or may not be present; most Japanese carry a handkerchief for

use after washing their hands.

A Separate toilet slippers will be provided in establishments where you take off your shoes at the

entrance; they are typically just inside the toilet door. These are for use in the toilet area only, so

remember to shuffle out of them when you leave.

Tourist Information

Even the smallest towns have tourist information counters (観光案内所; kankō annai-sho), located

inside or in front of the main train station. In major cities, there should be at least one person on staff

who can speak English. Outside of major cities, staff may or may not speak English (there is no

consistency); however, there will usually be English-language materials, such as maps, and staff are

accustomed to the usual concerns of travellers (food, lodging and transport schedules). Many tourist

information centres have free wi-fi. While those in cities usually do not make bookings, rural ones

can often call around for you.

Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp), Japan’s government tourist bureau, produces lots of travel information; its website, with content available in many languages, is

a useful planning tool.

Visas

Visitor Visas

Citizens of 68 countries/regions, including Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Korea, New Zealand,

Singapore, USA, UK and almost all European nations, will be automatically issued a temporary

visitor visa on arrival. Typically this visa is good for 90 days. For a complete list of visa-exempt

countries and visa durations, consult www.mofa.go.jp/j_info/visit/visa/short/novisa.html#list.

On entering Japan, all holders of foreign passports are photographed and fingerprinted. If asked,

travellers arriving on a temporary visitor visa should be able to provide proof of onward travel or

sufficient means to purchase an air or ferry ticket; in practice, this is rarely asked.

Visa Extensions

Citizens of Austria, Germany, Ireland, Lichtenstein, Mexico, Switzerland and the UK are able to

extend their temporary visitor visa once, for another 90 days, but need to apply at a regional

immigration bureau before the initial visa expires. For a list of immigration bureaus, see www.immi-

moj.go.jp/english/soshiki/index.html.

For other nationalities, extending a temporary visa is difficult unless you have family or business

contacts in Japan who can act as a guarantor on your behalf.

Resident Card

Anyone entering Japan on a visa for longer than the standard 90 days for tourists will be issued a

resident card (在留カード; zairyū kādo). Those arriving at Narita, Haneda, Kansai or Chūbu airport

will receive their cards at the airport (show your visa to airport staff to be directed to the correct

counter); otherwise the card will be sent to a registered address.

Working-Holiday Visas

Citizens of 20 countries/regions are eligible for working-holiday visas: Argentina, Australia, Austria,

Canada, Chile, Denmark, France, Germany, Ireland, Hong Kong, Hungary, Korea, New Zealand,

Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Spain, Taiwan and the UK.

To qualify you must be between the ages of 18 and 30 (or 18 and 25 for Australians, Canadians

and Koreans) with no accompanying dependants. With few exceptions, the visa is valid for one year

and you must apply from a Japanese embassy or consulate abroad.

The visa is designed to enable young people to travel during their stay, and there are legal

restrictions about how long and where you can work; you may also be required to show proof of

adequate funds.

For more details, see www.mofa.go.jp/j_info/visit/w_holiday.

Volunteering

Most meaningful volunteer work in Japan requires Japanese language ability or an ongoing

commitment.

World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms Japan (www.wwoofjapan.com) Popular with travellers, this organisation places volunteers on organic farms around the country, providing

participants with a good look at Japanese rural life and the running of an organic farm.

Women Travellers

Japan is a relatively safe country for women travellers, though perhaps not quite as safe as some

might think –crimes against women are believed to be widely under-reported. The best advice is to

avoid being lulled into a false sense of security and to take the normal precautions you would in your

home country.

Foreign women are occasionally subjected to some forms of verbal harassment or prying

questions. The risk of harassment is highest in nightlife districts, especially for solo female travellers.

Local women tend not to wear low-cut or form-fitting tops; wearing one may draw unsolicited

attention. Physical attacks are very rare, but do occur.

Several train companies have women-only cars to protect female passengers from chikan (men

who grope women and girls on packed trains). These cars are usually available during rush-hour

periods on weekdays on busy urban lines. There are signs (usually in pink) on the platform indicating

where you can board these cars; children of any gender may also ride these cars.

Work

It is illegal for non-Japanese to work in Japan without a proper visa. Holders of student or cultural

visas who have filed for permission to work, or holders of working-holiday visas, can work legally in

Japan under certain restrictions. A full-time job requires an employer-sponsored working visa. There

are legal employment categories for foreigners that specify standards of experience and

qualifications.

The most common job is English-teaching; however, it is increasingly difficult to find jobs while

in Japan that offer visa sponsorship. If you do find one, know that the sponsorship process can be a

lengthy one – typically taking at least three months.

The first step is to apply for a Certificate of Eligibility, which requires handing over any number of

documents (depending on the desired visa status), at the nearest Japanese immigration office. Once

this certificate has been issued, you can then apply for a visa. Some companies may handle some or

all of this process for you.

Given the high cost of living in Japan, it makes sense to secure employment and a working visa

while still in your home country or while in Japan on a visa that allows part-time work (such as a

student or working-holiday visa). The Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) Programme

(jetprogramme.org), as well as some large English conversation school chains, sponsor qualified

applicants.

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Entering the Country

So long as you abide by the rules, entering and exiting Japan is usually hassle-free.

Visas are given on arrival for many nationalities. Foreigners are fingerprinted and photographed on

arrival.

BAGGAGE FORWARDING

Baggage courier services (called takkyūbin) are popular in Japan and many domestic tourists

use them to forward their bags, golf clubs, surfboards etc ahead to their destination, to avoid

having to bring them on public transport. The tourism bureau has been working to open this

service up to foreign travellers; see its guide, Hands-Free Travel Japan (www.jnto.go.jp/hands-

free-travel), for a list of luggage forwarding counters, mostly at airports, train stations and

shopping centres, set up for travellers.

This is a great service except for one caveat: in most cases, your bags won’t get there until

the following day. (So, for example, if you want to ship your luggage to or from the airport,

you’ll need a day pack with one night’s worth of supplies.) On the other hand, this can free

you from large luggage for a one-night detour to an onsen – just send your bags to the

following night’s destination.

Hotels can also often arrange this service for you (and the couriers will pick up the luggage

from the lobby). Costs vary depending on the size and weight of the bag and where it’s going,

but it’s typically around ¥2000.

Air

Narita Airport, near Tokyo, is the main point of entry for international travellers; Tokyo has another

smaller international airport, Haneda, which is closer to the city centre. If you plan to skip Tokyo or

zero in on a specific region, international airports in Kansai (for Kyoto and Osaka), Hokkaidō,

Kyūshū and Naha (for Okinawa) might be more time and cost effective. Unless you’re flying from

east or Southeast Asia, you’ll most likely fly first to Tokyo and transfer from there.

DEPARTURE TAX

Departure tax (¥1000) is included in the price of a ticket.

Airports & Airlines

Japan’s major international airports:

Fukuoka International Airport (www.fuk-ab.co.jp) At the northern end of Kyūshū, and the main arrival point for destinations in western Japan. The airport is conveniently located near the city and

has direct flights to/from major cities in east and Southeast Asia.

Haneda Airport (www.tokyoairport-bldg.co.jp) Tokyo’s more convenient airport, about 30 minutes by train or monorail to the city centre. Haneda, also known as Tokyo International Airport, has direct

flights to/from major cities in east and Southeast Asia, USA, Australia, Europe and the Middle East;

domestic flights to/from Tokyo usually arrive/depart here.

Kansai International Airport (www.kansai-airport.or.jp) Serves the key Kansai cities of Kyoto, Osaka, Nara and Kōbe. Direct international flights to/from major cities in east and Southeast Asia,

west coast USA and Australia.

Naha Airport (www.nahaairport.co.jp) On Okinawa-hontō (the main island of Okinawa), with direct flights to/from major cities in east Asia (including Beijing, Hong Kong, Busan, Seoul, Singapore,

Shanghai and Taipei).

Narita International Airport (www.narita-airport.jp) About 75 minutes east of Tokyo by express train, Narita gets the bulk of international flights to Japan from around the world; most budget

carriers flying to Tokyo arrive here.

New Chitose Airport (www.new-chitose-airport.jp) In central Hokkaidō, south of Sapporo, with

direct flights to/from all major cities in east and Southeast Asia.

Japan’s two main international carriers are Japan Airlines (JAL; %0570-025-121, 03-6733-3062;

www.jal.co.jp/en) and All Nippon Airways (ANA; %0570-029-709, in Osaka 06-7637-6679, in Tokyo 03-6741-1120; www.ana.co.jp); both also operate extensive domestic networks.

INTERNATIONAL FERRY FARES & DURATIONS

Ferries connect Japan to South Korea, China and Russia. Prices listed

include fuel surcharges (which are subject to change).

ROUTE

2ND-CLASS FARE DURATION

FREQUENCY

(¥)

(HR)

South Korea

ROUTE

2ND-CLASS FARE DURATION

FREQUENCY

(¥)

(HR)

Fukuoka–Busan

10,310-14,000

3-6

3 daily

Osaka–Busan

15,120

19

3 weekly

Shimonoseki–Busan

10,310

12

1 daily

Sakai-Minato–

11,000

14

1 weekly

Donghae

China

Osaka–Shanghai

22,000

48

1-2 weekly

Russia

Sakai Minato–

26,000

42

1 weekly

Vladivostok

GETTING AROUND

Air

Air services in Japan are extensive, reliable and safe. Flying is often faster and cheaper than

shinkansen (bullet trains) and good for covering long distances or hopping islands.

All local carriers have websites in English on which you can check prices and book tickets.

Japan Airlines (JAL; %0570-025-121, 03-6733-3062; www.jal.co.jp/en), which includes Hokkaidō

Air System (HAC) and Okinawa carrier Japan Trans Ocean Air (JTA), has the most extensive

domestic network; All Nippon Airways (ANA; %0570-029-709, in Osaka 06-7637-6679, in Tokyo

03-6741-1120; www.ana.co.jp) is second.

Both All Nippon Airways (ANA) and Japan Airlines (JAL) offer discounts of up to 50% if you

purchase your ticket a month or more in advance, with smaller discounts for purchases made one to

three weeks in advance.

Budget airlines run between major regional airports, including Narita, Haneda, Kansai, Naha and

New Chitose, and offer prices often lower than discounted fares on JAL and ANA for the same

routes.

Air Do (www.airdo.jp) Flights from Hokkaidō’s New Chitose Airport to Sendai, Haneda, Nagoya (Chubu), Kōbe and to Hokkaidō regional airports.

Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) Destinations from Tokyo’s Narita Airport and Osaka’s Kansai International Airport include Okinawa (Naha), Sapporo (New Chitose) and Fukuoka.

Peach (www.flypeach.com) Good for flights out of Kansai.

Skymark Airlines (www.skymark.co.jp) Connects many regional airports; Tokyo routes fly in/out of Haneda.

Vanilla Air (www.vanilla-air.com) Destinations from Tokyo (Narita) include Okinawa (Naha) and Sapporo (New Chitose).

TRANSITING AT HANEDA AIRPORT

If you’re flying international into Tokyo’s Haneda Airport and then catching a domestic flight

to elsewhere in Japan give yourself a good buffer (90 minutes as a minimum). Not only will

you have to clear immigration (always a variable, even in efficient Japan), you’ll have to take

either the monorail or a shuttle bus between the international and domestic terminals – in

totally different buildings.

Passes & Discounts

A Foreign travellers can purchase ANA Experience Japan Fare one-way domestic tickets for the flat

rate of ¥10,800. For details, see

www.ana.co.jp/wws/th/e/wws_common/promotions/share/experience_jp.

A JAL’s Visit Japan Fare offers a similar ¥10,800 flat-rate ticket for domestic routes to foreign

travellers flying inbound on any Oneworld carriers. For details, see www.jal.co.jp/yokosojapan.

A ANA Mileage Club members aged 12 to 25 years or over 65 can purchase discounted ‘youth’ and

‘senior’ same-day domestic tickets from ¥8000 (from ¥5200 for youth) to ¥22,000 per sector.

A JAL’s Okinawa Island Pass (www.churashima.net/jta/company/islandpass_en.html) makes island-

hopping cheaper; it’s only available for foreign visitors and must be purchased abroad.

A Early morning and late-night flights are usually the cheapest.

Bicycle

A few cities – including Tokyo, Osaka, Kōbe and Sapporo – have cycle-share schemes. They can be

a little tricky to use, usually requiring advance registration online; follow the online directions. Many

Japanese use bicycles to get around cities; by law bicycles should be ridden on the road but many

people use the pavements. Cycle lanes are pretty much nonexistent. Drivers (and pedestrians) are

generally courteous. In cities, bicycles should be parked at ports or designated bicycle parking areas.

Many tourist areas have bicycles for hire. These are almost always heavy-framed, single-speed

shopping bikes, though some places have electric bicycles; child-sized bicycles are rarely available.

They may be free as part of a local tourism initiative; otherwise private businesses, usually in the

vicinity of train stations, rent them out for about ¥1000 per day. Ask at the local tourist information

centre. Many youth hostels also have bicycles to rent or borrow.

Helmets are mandatory for children 12 years and under. Unless road touring, adults rarely wear

them so rental shops don’t provide them (unless they offer children’s bicycles; then helmets for

children will be included in the rental).

It is difficult to rent touring cycles in Japan; Cycle Osaka (%080-5325-8975;

www.cycleosaka.com; 2-12-1 Sagisu, Fukushima-ku; half-/full-day tour ¥5000/10,000; dJR Loop line to Fukushima) is one operator that offers them. To take a bicycle on a train, it needs to be broken

down and stored in a bike bag.

Boat

Ferries are pretty much never the cheapest way to get anywhere, and are always the least time-

efficient, but the boat rides themselves can be fun: long-haul ferries in Japan have communal

bathhouses, dining halls and even karaoke rooms.

On overnight ferries, 2nd-class travel means sleeping in common rooms on plastic mats or the

floor; however, you can pay a little extra to upgrade to a dorm room (or a lot extra for a suite).

Most major ferry companies have English websites for booking tickets; otherwise book through a

travel agency like JTB (www.jtb.co.jp).

DOMESTIC FERRY FARES & DURATIONS

Ferry fares fluctuate by season and by oil price; they change every three

months.

ROUTE

2ND-CLASS FARE (¥)

DURATION (HR)

Honshū–Hokkaidō

Hachinohe–Tomakomai

5000

7-9

Maizuru–Otaru

9570-16,350

20

Niigata–Otaru

6480-10,180

18

Ōarai–Tomakomai

8740-14,910

17

From Tokyo

Shinmoji (Kitakyūshū)

16,110

35

Tokushima (Shikoku)

11,690

18-19½

From Osaka/Kōbe

Beppu (Kyūshū)

11,200-12,000

12

Miyazaki (Kyūshū)

9460-10,700

12½

Naha (Okinawa)

19,330

40

Shibushi (Kyūshū)

12,880-13,400

15

Shinmoji (Kitakyūshū)

6170-6480

12½

Kyūshū–Okinawa

Kagoshima–Naha

14,610

25

Bus

Japan has a comprehensive network of long-distance buses, connecting the islands of Honshū,

Shikoku and Kyūshū. They’re nowhere near as fast as the shinkansen, but they’re significantly

cheaper. Buses also travel routes that trains don’t.

Japan Railways (JR) operates the largest network of highway buses in Japan; it tends to be a little

pricier than other operators, but is reliable and buses tend to depart and arrive at train stations rather

than bus stops elsewhere in the city.

Cheaper operators with large networks include Willer Express (%050-5805-0383;

http://willerexpress.com). You can book seats on Willer and other reputable operators through the company’s Japan Bus Lines service (http://japanbuslines.com).

Most long-haul routes have a night bus option. Premium coaches have quite roomy seats that

recline significantly; these can cost almost twice as much as ordinary coaches, but you’re still saving

on accommodation. They tend to arrive very early, around 6am or 7am. All buses have toilets on the

bus.

SAMPLE BUS FARES

Typical long-distance one-way fares and travel times out of Tokyo include

the following. Early booking often means discounts; prices usually rise on

weekends.

DESTINATION

FARE (¥)

DURATION (HR)

Aomori

7000

11

Hiroshima

8600

12

Kanazawa

5500

8

Kōbe

5400

10

Kyoto

5400

8

Nagano

3200

4½

Nagoya

4100

5½

Nara

5980

8½

Osaka

5400

8½

JAPAN BUS PASS

Foreign travellers can purchase a Japan Bus Pass

(http://willerexpress.com/st/3/en/pc/buspass), good for travel on non-consecutive days within two months. Only certain routes apply; make sure

your itinerary doesn’t involve having to double back to one of the hub

cities.

DURATION (DAYS)

MON-THU (¥)

ALL DAYS (¥)

3

10,000

12,500

DURATION (DAYS)

MON-THU (¥)

ALL DAYS (¥)

5

12,500

15,000

7

15,000

-

Car & Motorcycle

For travel to rural areas a car is the best way to get around, especially for two or more people. Areas

that are great for exploration by car include: Hokkaidō; Tōhoku; Hida, Shirakawa-gō, the Japan Alps

and the Noto Peninsula (Central Honshū), the San-in Coast (Western Honshū); Shikoku; Kyūshū; and

Okinawa.

Navigation systems have made driving in Japan much easier than it used to be. In remote mountain

areas, however, these are not fool-proof; be sure to give yourself plenty of time to find your

destination.

For intercity travel, it’s hard to compete with the trains – after taking into account expressway

tolls, city traffic and parking.

Automobile Associations

If you’re a member of an automobile association in your home country, you’re eligible for reciprocal

rights with the Japan Automobile Federation (JAF; www.jaf.or.jp)

Car & Motorcycle Hire

Prices are largely comparable among agencies: from around ¥7000 per day for a compact car, with

reductions for rentals of more than one day.

The following rental agencies have large networks around Japan; vehicles with English-language

navigation systems; and ETC cards for rent. Bookings can be completed online in English.

A Nippon (www.nrgroupglobal.com)

A Toyota (https://rent.toyota.co.jp)

Agencies located at major international airports are most likely to have English-speaking staff. If you

walk into a rental shop where the staff don’t speak English, the best thing to do is first show them

your international licence: whether or not you have a valid licence will be the primary concern.

Hiring a motorcycle for long-distance touring is not as easy as hiring a car. Rental 819

(www.rental819.com) is one of the few agencies that makes it possible to book in English. Crash

helmets are compulsory for motorcyclists in Japan.

Scooter rentals are common on smaller islands; you’ll still need an international licence (though

not a motorcycle licence) to rent one of these.

Driving Phrases

English

Pronunciation

Script

credit card

kaado

カード

cash

genkin

現金

expressway

jidōshadō

自動車道

full tank

mantan

満タン

high-octane gas

hai-oku

ハイオク

roadside station

michi-no-eki

道の駅

one-way street

ippō tsūkō

一方通行

petrol stand

gasorin sutando

ガソリンスタンド

regular gas

regyuraa

レギュラー

road closed

tsūkō-dome

通行止

selfservice

serufu

セルフ

Driving Licences

Travellers from most nations are able to drive (both cars and motorcycles) in Japan with an

International Driving Permit backed up by their own regular licence. The International Driving

Permit is issued by your national automobile association. Make sure it is endorsed for cars and

motorcycles if you’re licensed for both.

Travellers from Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium, Slovenia, Monaco, Estonia and Taiwan

need to get an authorised translation of their licence (be sure to carry the original with you too). JAF

branches do same-day translations for ¥3000.

Foreign licences and International Driving Permits are only valid in Japan for one year. If you are

staying longer, you will have to get a Japanese licence from the local department of motor vehicles.

Expressways

Japan has an extensive, well-maintained expressway system. Expressways are numbered as well as

named (the numbers are new and most locals know the roads only by name). Interchanges and exits

are signposted in English, but make sure you know the name of your exit as it may not necessarily be

the same as your destination.

Tolls are calculated at ¥24.60 per kilometre (plus a base fare and surcharges for some tunnels).

Tokyo to Kyoto, for example, will cost about ¥10,500 in tolls. It adds up quickly: if you are going to

be covering a lot of ground, it makes sense to get one of the expressway passes offered to foreign

tourists.

Expressway toll booths accept credit cards; others will take only cash. Staffed toll booths will be

marked in green with the characters 一般 (ippan) for drivers without ETC cards; automated ETC

booths are marked ETC.

ETC CARDS

ETC cards (www.go-etc.jp), fitted into a reader inside the car, allow drivers to pass through the automated toll booths at 20km/h without stopping. The cards also save money: tolls for ETC users

can be up to 30% less than standard tolls (depending on the time of day and distance travelled).

Rental cars have ETC card readers and major agencies will rent the cards for a small fee; you’ll be

presented with a bill for your tolls when you return the car.

EXPRESSWAY PASSES

These can save money if you plan to cover a lot of ground in a short time by relying on expressways

to get around; they’re less useful if you prefer to take more scenic roads.

Japan Expressway Pass (https://global.w-nexco.co.jp/en/jep) Seven-/14-day ¥20,000/34,000; covers

the whole expressway system except for Hokkaidō, the Tokyo and Osaka metro areas and the bridges

between Honshū and Shikoku.

Hokkaidō Expressway Pass (www.driveplaza.com/trip/drawari/hokkaido_expass/en.html) Available from two-day (¥3600) to 14-day (¥11,300); good for all Hokkaidō expressways.

Kyūshū Expressway Pass (http://global.w-nexco.co.jp/en/kep) Available from two-day (¥3500) to 10-day (¥11,500); good for all Kyūshū expressways.

Fuel

Petrol stations can be found in almost every town and in service stations along the expressways.

Petrol usually costs around ¥130 per litre for regular grade. Credit cards are accepted everywhere.

While self-serve petrol stations are increasing in number, full-service stations are still the most

common.

To say ‘fill ‘er up’ in Japanese, it’s mantan (full tank). You will likely be asked how you intend to

pay: Oshiharai ha dono yō ni saremasu ka? (How would you like to pay?) The two possible answers

are genkin (cash) or kaado (credit card). Full service costs slightly more, but the service is excellent:

staff will take any garbage you have, wipe your windshield inside and out and then wave you back

into the traffic.

If you use a self service pump: the red pump is regular, the yellow is high-octane, and green is

diesel.

Insurance

Mandatory coverage is included in the cost of the rental car and usually comes with a deductible fee

of around ¥50,000. For an extra fee (about ¥1000 per day) you can add on extra coverage that

includes the cost of the deductible as well.

Maps & Navigation

Kodansha’s Japan Atlas: A Bilingual Guide has maps labelled in English and kanji.

Parking

In larger cities (like Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto) parking is expensive and largely confined to car parks

where you might pay anywhere from ¥300 to ¥600 per hour; metered street parking is rare in Japan.

Car parks are easy to spot, as signs sport a big ‘P’ on them. Not all big city hotels have car parks;

when they do, expect to pay from ¥500 to ¥1500 per night (the larger the city, the higher the cost).

In smaller cities and in the countryside, where locals rely on cars, parking is generally plentiful and

free. Some sights will still charge for parking, often about ¥500 per day.

Rest Stops

There are regular service areas (SA) and parking areas (PA) along national expressways; the former

usually have more amenities, including petrol, restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops. Only some are

open 24 hours, but even those that aren’t will always have a clean, well-lit restroom open for

travellers.

Country roads have their own rest stops, called michi-no-eki (道の駅; road stations). In addition to

toilets, these have restaurants or cafes run by community members and sometimes local produce and

crafts for sale (but no petrol). For a list, see www.michi-no-eki.jp.

Road Conditions

Japanese roads are generally in excellent condition. You’re far more likely to encounter roadworks in

progress than a road in need of repair. Bear in mind that mountain roads tend to be narrow, as are

many in the cities (where you’ll also have to contend with one-way streets).

Winter driving in Japan can be treacherous if you don’t have experience with snow and ice. Snow

is possible in higher elevations as early as November (October in Hokkaidō) and may keep mountain

passes closed as late as April, and while roads are signposted in English, weather warnings and road

closures typically aren’t. If you’re driving through the mountains in winter, have someone (perhaps at

your accommodation) check your route to make sure it’s feasible under current conditions.

Car rental agencies rent vehicles with chains and snow tyres or four-wheel drive. Petrol stations in

mountain areas will usually put the chains on for a charge (¥1000 to ¥2000). There may be police

stops in these areas to make sure that cars have chains.

USING CAR NAVIGATION SYSTEMS

Rental cars come equipped with satellite navigation systems that are generally very reliable;

major agencies offer ones that have an English function. Japanese addresses can be confusing,

so the best way to set your destination is to input the phone number. Many tourist

organisations now also provide pamphlets with ‘map codes’ for major destinations, which you

can use in car navigation systems.

Road Rules

A Driving is on the left.

A There are no unusual rules, or interpretations of them, and most signposts follow international

conventions.

A Stop signs are inverted red triangles.

A JAF publishes a Rules of the Road guide (digital/print ¥864/1404) in English, which is handy; it

also has some useful information online.

A Speed limits tend to be low, though many local drivers ignore them (at their peril: patrol cars are

often lurking).

A Japan takes a very hard line against drunk driving: a blood alcohol content of 0.03% can land you –

and your passengers – a citation with a hefty fee.

A The law requires children under the age of six years to ride in a car seat; rental car agencies provide

them for a small extra fee.

A Japanese drivers are generally safe and courteous. Be aware that they may use turn signals only

after entering an intersection or initiating a lane change; they may also be slow to turn their lights on

at dusk or in inclement weather (an issue mainly because the vast majority of cars in Japan are white,

grey or black).

Hitching

Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should

understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.

Hitchhikers are a rare sight in Japan, but the practice is not illegal (so long as you don’t stop

traffic). Some hitchhikers have tales of extraordinary kindness from motorists who have picked them

up.

The best places to look for rides are convenience stores and expressway service areas. At any

service area look for a free map that shows all the interchanges (IC) and rest stops on the expressway

network – important orientation points if you have a limited knowledge of Japanese.

ADDRESSES IN JAPAN

In Japan, finding a place from its address can be difficult, even for locals. Addresses are not

designated by streets, but rather by concentric areas and blocks and then a building number,

which may or may not be consecutive with the ones around it. Smartphones with navigation

apps have been a real boon for travellers – probably the biggest reason to want a stable,

consistent wi-fi connection at all times. In cities, ubiquitous kōban (police boxes) have maps,

and officers are always happy to help with directions (though few speak English).

Local Transport

Japan’s larger cities are serviced by subways or trams, buses and taxis; indeed, many locals rely

entirely on public transport.

Bus

All cities have public bus systems but it is unlikely that you will find yourself riding them often;

Kyoto is the big exception. Smaller cities that don’t have subway or tram services usually have a

tourist bus that does a loop to the main sights starting and ending at the main train station. City buses

typically have a flat fare; day passes are often the most economical way to get around.

Buses that head out of cities or traverse rural areas calculate fares based on distance. When you

board (from the rear door most likely), pick up a paper ticket marked with a zone number from the

dispenser; when you get off, match your zone number to the electric signboard in the front of the bus

and put the posted fare and ticket into the fare box, or show the driver your ticket and a handful of

coins and have him or her pick out the required fare; they’re used to this.

All buses have change machines near the front door that can exchange ¥100 and ¥500 coins and

¥1000 notes.

Taxi

A Taxis are ubiquitous in big cities; they can be found in smaller cities and even on tiny islands, too,

though usually just at transport hubs (train and bus stations and ferry ports) – otherwise you’ll need

to have one called.

A Transit stations and hotels have taxi stands where you are expected to queue. In the absence of a

stand, you can hail a cab from the street, by standing on the curb and sticking your arm out.

A Use the JapanTaxi app to book taxis – including fixed fare ones to the airport. (In rural areas you’re

probably still better off having a local call a taxi for you.)

A Fares are fairly uniform throughout the country and all cabs run by the meter.

A Flagfall (posted on the taxi windows) is around ¥600 for the first 2km, after which it’s around ¥100

for each 350m (approximately). Flagfall in Tokyo and Kyoto is ¥410 for the first 1km. There’s also a

time charge if the speed drops below 10km/h and a 20% surcharge between 10pm and 5am.

A Payment by credit card is usually accepted.

A A red light means the taxi is free and a green light means it’s taken.

A The driver opens and closes the doors remotely – full service indeed!

A Drivers rarely speak English, though fortunately most taxis now have navigation systems. It’s a

good idea to have your destination written down in Japanese, or better yet, a business card with an

address.

RIDE-SHARING APPS

Ride-sharing apps are regulated in Japan. A commercial licence is required to qualify as a driver, so

an app like Uber will connect you with a private town car (and probably cost more than a taxi).

Train & Subway

Subway systems operate in Fukuoka, Kōbe, Kyoto, Nagoya, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai, Tokyo and

Yokohama. They are usually the fastest and most convenient way to get around the city. The Tokyo

metro area and Kansai metro area are further linked by a network of JR and private rail lines. Stops

and line names are posted in English. Rides cost from ¥160 to ¥200.

If you plan to zip around a city in a day, an unlimitedtravel day ticket (called ichi-nichi-jōsha-ken)

is a good deal; most cities offer them and they can be purchased at station windows. If you plan to

spend more than a day or two, then getting a prepaid IC card is highly recommended.

Tram

Smaller cities have tram lines. These include Nagasaki, Kumamoto and Kagoshima on Kyūshū;

Hiroshima on Honshū; Kōchi and Matsuyama on Shikoku; and Hakodate on Hokkaidō. These

usually offer unlimited-travel day tickets.

IC CARDS

IC cards are prepaid travel cards with chips that work on subways, trams and buses in the

Tokyo, Kansai, Sapporo, Niigata, Nagoya, Okayama, Hiroshima and Fukuoka metro areas.

Each region has its own card, but they can be used interchangeably in any region where IC

cards are used; however, they cannot be used for intercity travel.

The two most frequently used IC cards are Suica from JR East and Icoca from JR West;

purchase them at JR travel counters at Narita and Haneda or Kansai airports, respectively.

Cards can also be purchased and topped up from ticket vending machines in any of the cities

that support them. A ¥500 deposit is required to purchase a card; you can get the deposit back

by returning the card to a JR ticket window.

To use the card, simply swipe it over the reader at the ticket gates or near the doors on trams

and buses. They can also be used to pay at some convenience stores and vending machines.

Train

Japanese rail services are fast, frequent, clean and comfortable. Major stations are sign-posted in

English and stops on long-haul trains are announced in English. The most challenging aspect of

riding trains in Japan is navigating the sometimes enormous stations with their multiple routes. Give

yourself plenty of time.

The predominant operator is Japan Railways, commonly known as ‘JR’, which is actually a

number of distinct rail systems providing one linked service throughout the country. JR runs the

shinkansen (bullet train) routes. A variety of rail pass schemes make the network very affordable.

In addition to JR services, there is a huge network of private railways. Each large city usually has

at least one private train line that services it and the surrounding area, or connects it to nearby cities.

These are often a bit cheaper than equivalent JR services.

Intercity routes typically run local (called futsū or kaku-eki-teisha), express (called kyūkō or

kaisoku) and limited express trains (called tokkyū). Most limited express trains, especially those

travelling to resort areas, require seat reservations and a surcharge; in this case the trains will have

comfortable reclining seats and toilets. All trains, save for a few shinkansen cars, are nonsmoking.

Intercity JR trains, including the shinkansen, have ‘green car’ carriages, which are akin to business

class. Seats are a little more spacious and the carriages tend to be quieter and less crowded.

Shinkansen

Japan’s shinkansen (bullet trains), which run at a maximum speed of 320km/h, connect almost every

major city in the country. In some places, the shinkansen station is a fair distance from the main JR

station (as is the case in Osaka and Hakodate), and a transfer is required to get into the city centre.

Some trains are faster than others, depending on how many stops they make en route. For example,

the journey from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka on the Tōkaidō line takes 2½ hours on the Nozomi train, three

hours on the Hikari train and nearly four hours on the Kodama train. There is no difference in fare.

Shinkansen passengers have the option of buying reserved seat or nonreserved seat tickets. Fares

for reserved seats cost ¥320 to ¥720 more than nonreserved seats, depending on the time of year. If

you purchase a non-reserved seat ticket and there are no seats in the allotted carriages, you will have

to stand. JR Rail pass holders can reserve seats at no extra charge.

Travellers are allowed two pieces of luggage, but note that you’ll have to put them up on the

overhead racks.

SHINKANSEN ROUTES

SHINKANSEN ROUTE KEY STOPS

TRAIN NAMES

Tōkaidō

Tokyo–

Shinagawa, Shin-Yokohama,

Kodama, Hikari, Nozomi

Shin-Osaka Odawara (Kodama only), Atami

(Kodama only) Nagoya, Kyoto

San’yō

Shin-

Shin-Kōbe, Himeji, Okayama,

Kodama, Hikari (to

Osaka–

Hiroshima, Shin-Shimonoseki

Okayama), Nozomi,

Hakata

Mizuho, Sakura

Kyūshū

Hakata–

Kumamoto

Mizuho, Sakura,

Kagoshima

Tsubame

SHINKANSEN ROUTE KEY STOPS

TRAIN NAMES

Hokuriku

Tokyo–

Takasaki, Karuizawa, Nagano

Kagayaki, Asama

Kanazawa

(Tokyo–Nagano),

Hakutaka (Nagano–

Kanazawa)

Jōetsu

Tokyo–

Takasaki, Echigo-Yuzawa

Toki; Tanigawa (Tokyo–

Niigata

Echigo-Yuzawa)

Tōhoku

Tokyo–

Utsunomiya, Fukushima, Sendai,

Hayate, Yamabiko

Shin-

Morioka

(Tokyo–Sendai)

Aomori

Yamagata

Tokyo–

Fukushima, Yamagata

Tsubasa

Shinjō

Akita

Tokyo–

Utsunomiya, Fukushima, Morioka, Komachi

Akita

Tazawa-ko, Kakunodate

Hokkaidō

Tokyo–

Utsunomiya, Fukushima, Sendai,

Hayate, Hayabusa

Shin-

Morioka, Shin-Aomori

Hakodate-

Hokuto

Overnight Trains

The Sunrise Seto/Izumo runs between Tokyo and Okayama before splitting in two directions – one

for Takamatsu on Shikoku (Sunrise Seto; from ¥15,750) and one for Izumo (Sunrise Izumo; from

¥15,070). Trains have private compartments and nobi nobi berths (partitioned person-sized patches of

carpet); the latter are free of charge for Japan Rail Pass holders, while the former require a surcharge.

Tickets can be purchased one month in advance at 10am from JR midori-no-madoguchi ticket

counters; the nobi nobi berths, in particular, sell out fast.

Train Lingo

Pronunciation

Script

English

futsū

普通

local

green-sha

グリーン車

businessclass car

jiyū-seki

自由席

unreserved seat

kaisoku

快速

JR rapid or express

kaku-ekiteisha

各駅停車

local

katamichi

片道

one way

kin’en-sha

禁煙車

nonsmoking car

kitsuen-sha

喫煙車

smoking car

kyūkō

急行

ordinary express

ōfuku

往復

round trip

shin-kaisoku

新快速

JR special rapid train

shinkansen

新幹線

bullet train

shiteiseki

指定席

reserved seat

tokkyū

特急

limited express

Ticketing

Tickets can be purchased from touch-screen vending machines in major train stations; most have an

English function and those for shinkansen journeys accept credit cards.

If you are booking a series of journeys, have questions or just want the reassurance of buying a

ticket from a person, major JR stations have what are called midori-no-madoguchi, which function as

JR’s in-house travel agency; there are also locations at Narita and Kansai airports where staff speak

good English. Private line trains will have their own ticket windows.

Tickets can also be purchased from travel agencies in Japan, which can also often be found within

train stations. Japan Travel Bureau (JTB; www.jtb.co.jp) has branches everywhere.

Seat reservations can only be made for shinkansen services and certain limited express (tokkyū)

lines (in which case they are required). Reserved-seat tickets can be bought any time from a month in

advance to the day of departure.

MAKING RESERVATIONS

A Reservations are a good idea on weekends and all but necessary over long holiday weekends and

during peak travel seasons – such as Golden Week (late April to early May), O-Bon (mid-August)

and the New Year period.

A If you have a firm itinerary, you can reserve all your long-haul JR train tickets at once at a midori-

no-madoguchi.

A JR East allows travellers (with or without rail passes) to make some reservations online via its

website (www.jreast.co.jp/e/index.html), though only for lines within its network. Read the fine print and be sure to pick up your tickets the day before your planned journey begins.

A Tickets can be purchased for Tōkaidō and San’yō shinkansen journeys at a small discount through

the app, Smart EX (https://smart-ex.jp/en); note that this service is not for rail pass holders.

A JR allows reservations to be changed once free of charge up to the time of departure; unused tickets

can be refunded, minus a handling fee. Private lines have their own policies.

DISCOUNTED TICKETS

Platt Kodama (www.jrtours.co.jp/kodama) This is a discounted ticket (20% to 23% off) for the journey between Tokyo and Osaka (via Nagoya and Kyoto) on Kodama trains. These are the slowest

trains on this shinkansen line, and make many stops. Tickets must be purchased at least one day

before departure and are nonrefundable.

SEISHUN JŪHACHI KIPPU

With time, a sense of adventure and an affinity for slow travel, the Seishun Jūhachi Kippu

(www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/seishun18.html) is the best deal around and can be a really fun way to see the country. It literally means ‘Youth 18 Ticket’ and is designed for students to travel cheaply, but

there are no actual age restrictions.

For ¥11,850 you get five one-day tickets valid for 24 hours each (starting at midnight) for travel

anywhere in Japan on JR lines, which can also be shared. The only catch is that you can’t travel on

tokkyū (limited express) or shinkansen trains.

Purchase tickets at any JR ticket counter (midorino-madoguchi). As they’re geared for students,

travel time is limited to school holiday periods. Sale and validity periods are outlined in the following

table:

Season

Sales Period

Validity Period

Spring

20 Feb–31 Mar

1 Mar–10 Apr

Summer

1 Jul–31 Aug

20 Jul–10 Sep

Winter

1–31 Dec

10 Dec–10 Jan

Note that these periods are subject to change, so check online for the latest information.

STUDENT DISCOUNTS

Students enrolled in Japanese universities (including foreign exchange students with a student ID

issued by a Japanese university) can obtain 20% discount vouchers for shinkansen, JR limited

express trains and some ferries from their university; unfortunately students enrolled in universities

abroad are not able to obtain the vouchers.

Rail Passes

JAPAN RAIL PASS

The Japan Rail Pass (www.japanrailpass.net) is perfect for first-time visitors who want to zip around to see the highlights. It covers travel on all shinkansen trains except for the very fastest ones: the

Nozomi and Mizuho trains on the Tōkaidō, San-yō and Kyūshū lines. A ‘green’ pass is good for rides

in business-class ‘green’ train cars.

A one-way reserved-seat Tokyo–Kyoto shinkansen ticket costs ¥13,600, so you only need make

one round trip between Tokyo and Kyoto on the shinkansen to make a seven-day pass come close to

paying off (add a round trip between Narita Airport and Tokyo and you’re already saving money).

Duration

Regular (adult/child)

Green (adult/child)

7 days

¥29,110/14,550

¥38,880/19,440

14 days

¥46,390/23,190

¥62,950/31,470

21 days

¥59,350/29,670

¥81,870/40,930

Until recently, the country-wide Japan Rail Pass needed to be purchased outside of Japan prior to

arrival through an authorised travel agency; it is currently available for purchase in country, but at a

mark-up (a seven-day pass, for example, would cost ¥33,000). Note that the ability to purchase the

pass within Japan is subject to change, so check online in advance.

If you purchase a pass outside of Japan, you will get an ‘exchange order’ that you should bring

along with your passport to a JR Travel Service Centre (located at Narita, Haneda and Kansai

international airports and at major train stations) to receive your pass.

When you validate the pass (at the same office), you select the date on which you want the pass to

become valid. You can choose to make it valid immediately or on a later date. So, if you just plan to

spend a few days in Kyoto or Tokyo before setting out to explore the country by rail, set the validity

date to the day you start your journey outside the city.

Once you’ve validated your pass, you can make seat reservations from any midori-no-madoguchi

(‘green window’ ticket counters) at JR train stations. You can also just show your pass at the ticket

gates and hop on any unreserved train car (though you’d be wise to book ahead during peak travel

times).

For more information on the pass and overseas purchase locations, visit the Japan Rail Pass

website.

HOKURIKU ARCH PASS

Slightly cheaper than the Japan Rail Pass, the Hokuriku Arch Pass (adult/child ¥25,000/12,500;

http://hokuriku-arch-pass.com/en) is valid for seven consecutive days and covers travel on the

Hokuriku Shinkansen, which connects Tokyo to Kanazawa (via Nagano) and the Sea of Japan coast,

and JR limited express trains that run from Kanazawa to and around the Kansai metro area (for

Kyoto, Osaka, Nara and Kōbe).

Express train travel to and from Narita and Kansai airports is also included (but not direct

shinkansen travel between Tokyo and Kansai), so this pass works well if you are flying into one

airport and out the other and want to do a classic itinerary in a fixed amount of time. Purchased

online for a ¥1000 discount.

JR EAST RAIL PASSES

JR East (www.jreast.co.jp) offers a few different rail passes that cover travel in different areas within eastern Honshū – a region that encompasses the Tokyo metro area, the Izu Peninsula, Nagano and the

Japan Alps – Tōhoku (Northern Honshū) and southern Hokkaidō (up to Sapporo).

In addition to the routes outlined below, all of the following passes cover travel on JR limited

express trains between Tokyo, Nikkō, Kofu (near Mt Fuji), Shimoda (at the tip of the Izu Peninsula)

and Narita Airport.

The Tokyo Wide Pass is the only rail pass that can be used by foreign passport holders who are not

on a tourist visa (foreign residents of Japan, for example). With the exception of the Tokyo Wide

Pass, the following can be purchased online ahead of time for a ¥1000 discount.

Nagano & Niigata Area Pass (adult/child ¥18,000/9000) Flexible use for five days within 14 days;

covers travel on the Jōetsu Shinkansen and the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Jōetsu-

Myōkō (including Nagano). As these are mountain areas, this pass is good for skiers and hikers.

South Hokkaidō Rail Pass (adult/child ¥27,000/13,500) Flexible use for six days within 14 days;

covers travel on the Tōhoku and Hokkaidō shinkansen lines. While only slightly cheaper than the

country-wide JR pass, the flexibility here is a bonus.

Tōhoku Area Pass (adult/child ¥20,000/10,000) Flexible use for five days within 14 days; covers

travel on the Tōhoku, Akita and Yamagata shinkansen lines and on the Jōetsu Shinkansen between

Tokyo and ski resort Gala Yuzawa. Good for a tour of the rustic north (and some skiing).

Tokyo Wide Pass (adult/child ¥10,000/5000) Valid for three consecutive days for travel on the

Jōetsu Shinkansen between Tokyo, Gala Yuzawa and Karuizawa. Good for sightseers with limited

time.

JR CENTRAL RAIL PASSES

JR Central (http://english.jrcentral.co.jp) has a few passes that are good for tackling mountain areas, including Takayama, Shirakawa-go, the Kiso Valley and the Kii Peninsula, without a car. Purchase

online ahead of time for a ¥1000 discount. For more pass details, see http://touristpass.jp/en.

Takayama-Hokuriku Pass (adult/child ¥15,000/7500) Valid for five consecutive days; covers travel

on JR trains between Kansai International Airport, Osaka, Kyoto, Kanazawa, Takayama, Gero Onsen

and Nagoya, plus buses around Shirakawa-go.

Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Pass (adult/child ¥18,500/9250) Valid for five consecutive days;

covers travel on JR trains between Nagoya, the Kiso Valley, Matsumoto, Toyama and Takayama,

including the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route.

Ise-Kumano-Wakayama Pass (adult/child ¥12,000/6000) Valid for five consecutive days; covers

travel on JR trains between Kansai Airport, Osaka, Nara, Ise-Shima and around the Kii Peninsula, as

well as local buses connecting towns along the Kumano Kodō.

JR WEST RAIL PASSES

JR West (www.westjr.co.jp) offers several different rail passes that cover travel in different areas within Western Honshū – a region that encompasses the Kansai metro area (Kyoto, Osaka, Kōbe and

Nara), the Hokuriku area (Kanazawa and the Sea of Japan coast), the Okayama area (for Himeji and

Kurashiki) and the Hiroshima area. Some also include Takamatsu (the northern gateway for Shikoku)

and Hakata (the northern gateway for Kyūshū).

In addition to the routes outlined here, all Kansai area passes cover transport on JR lines to/from

Kansai International Airport to Kyoto and Osaka. Pass holders can rent bicycles free of charge at

Ekirin rental shops located at train stations covered within the scope of each pass.

Purchase online ahead of time for a ¥1000 discount. For a full list of currently available passes see:

www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass

Kansai Wide Area Pass (adult/child ¥10,000/5000) Valid for five consecutive days; covers travel on

JR intercity trains (excluding the shinkansen) between Osaka, Kyoto and Nara, plus travel on the

San-yō Shinkansen between Osaka and Okayama (via Kōbe and Himeji) and limited express trains

going north to the Sea of Japan coast (including Kinosaki Onsen) and south to the Kii Peninsula.

Good for exploring the Kansai region in depth.

Kansai–Hiroshima Area Pass (adult/child ¥14,500/7250) Valid for five consecutive days; covers all

JR limited express trains in Kansai, as well as the San-yō Shinkansen between Osaka and Hiroshima

(via the castle town Himeji) and the ferry to Miyajima. Perfect for covering the highlights of Kansai

and Western Honshū.

Kansai–Hokuriku Area Pass (adult/child ¥16,000/8000) Valid for seven consecutive days; covers

all JR limited express trains in Kansai and Kanazawa (on the Sea of Japan coast), as well as the San-

yō Shinkansen between Osaka and Okayama and the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Kanazawa and

Jōetsu-Myōkō (in Niigata; good for skiing). The pass covers a good spread of well-travelled and less-

travelled destinations.

San-yō-San’in Area Pass (adult/child ¥19,000/9500) Valid for seven consecutive days; covers all JR

limited express trains in and around Kansai and to Takamatsu (Shikoku), as well as the San-yō

Shinkansen between Osaka and Hakata in Kyūshū, via Okayama and Hiroshima. If you’re skipping

Tokyo and points east, this pass covers a good spread for significantly less than the classic JR Pass.

SAMPLE TRAIN FARES

JR fares are made up of the basic fare – what it would cost to take a local or

express train on an ordinary trunk line – plus surcharges for limited express,

shinkansen and sleeper trains.

The following are some typical fares from Tokyo (prices given for

shinkansen are the total price of reserved seat ticket during mid-season,

excluding Nozomi and Hayabusa trains).

DESTINATION

BASIC (¥)

SHINKANSEN (¥)

Hakata

13,820

22,330

Hiroshima

11,660

18,560

Kanazawa

7340

14,120

Kyoto

8210

13,600

Nagoya

6260

10,800

Niigata

5620

10,570

Okayama

10,480

16,820

Sendai

5940

10,890

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

11,560

22,180

Shin-Osaka

8750

14,140

KANSAI THRU PASS

The Kansai Thru Pass (www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_english.html) is the best deal for

hitting the highlights of the Kansai region. Good for two (adult/child ¥4000/2000) or three

(adult/child ¥5200/2600) days, it covers city subways and buses and private railways (excluding JR

lines) that connect Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Kōbe, Himeji and the Kii Peninsula (including Kōya-san). It

also entitles you to discounts at many attractions in the Kansai area.

Purchase it at Kansai International Airport or at any tourist information centre in the Kansai area.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of

human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use

less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The

altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their

climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate

the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the

impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly

initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and

author travel.

JR KYŪSHŪ RAIL PASSES

JR Kyūshū’s (www.jrkyushu.co.jp) All Kyūshū Area Pass (three-day adult/child ¥15,000/7500; five-day adult/child ¥18,000/9000) covers travel on the Kyūshū shinkansen between Hakata and

Kagoshima (via Kumamoto) and limited express trains around the island, including routes to

Nagasaki and the onsen towns of Beppu, Yufuin and Ibusuki. There are also cheaper passes covering

just the northern or just the southern half of the island.

SHIKOKU RAIL PASS

The All Shikoku Pass (http://shikoku-railwaytrip.com/railpass.html) covers unlimited travel on the

Shikoku intercity train network, including non-JR lines and scenic trains, and the ferry to

Shodoshima.

Duration

Regular (adult/child)

3 days

¥9500/4750

4 days

¥10,500/5250

5 days

¥11,500/5750

7 days

¥12,500/6250

JR HOKKAIDŌ RAIL PASS

The Hokkaidō Rail Pass (www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/english/ticket/railpass/index.html) covers

all JR limited express trains on Hokkaidō (but not travel on the Hokkaidō shinkansen).

Duration

Regular (adult/child)

3 days

¥16,500/8250

4 days flexible

¥22,000/11,000

5 days

¥22,000/11,000

7 days

¥24,000/12,000

The four-day flexible pass is valid for 10 days.

Schedules & Information

Japan’s extensive rail network is run by multiple operators (with their own websites), which makes

searching timetables a chore. Train stations will have them posted for the lines running in and out of

that particular station. You can also use the website HyperDia (www.hyperdia.com) to search routes

and times in English.

For enquiries relating to JR, such as schedules, fares, fastest routes, lost baggage, discounts on rail

travel, hotels and car hire, contact the JR East Infoline (%from inside Japan 050-2016-1603, from

overseas 81-50-2016-1603; www.jreast.co.jp/e/customer_support/infoline.html; h10am-6pm).

Information is available in English, Korean and Chinese.

Language

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

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Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although

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OUR READERS

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints,

useful advice and interesting anecdotes:

Alexander Debkaliuk, Andrew Edwards, Ann Clancy, Benjamin Laine, Bernhard Leube, Chris

Morgan, Christina Andersen, Jean-Francois Gilbert, Joris Coenen, Julie Landau, Margaret Chappell,

Morgan Giles, Niall Christie, Nick Stevens, Nicolas Pouppart, Paul Gully, Petra O’Neill, Ray

Dahlhoff, Sigrun Kölle, Travis Nelson, Tsuyoshi Jona.

WRITER THANKS

Rebecca Milner

Thank you to my family and friends, who are there for me through all the ups and downs and late

nights; to my indefatigable co-author Simon, for his inspiration and guidance; to LP for standing by

me; and to all the chefs, curators, professors, baristas and total strangers who knowingly or

unknowingly provided me with new insight into this city, which I must also thank, for always

keeping me on my toes.

Ray Bartlett

Thanks first and always to my family and amazing friends, for letting me go on these adventures and

still remembering me when I get back. To the great editorial staff at LP for their wisdom and advice.

To all people I met or who helped me along the way. Tamura-さん, Airi, Kurumi and Aya,

Yamaguchi-さん, Ishikawa-さん, Saeki, Saika, Minori, Emi, Ōtani-さん, Sakiko-さん, the lovely

Linh, Watanabe Ayaka-さん…and so many other great people I met along the way. Thanks so much.

Can’t wait to be back again soon.

Andrew Bender

Thanks to my excellent Kyushu spirit guides Yohko Scott, Sakaguchi Riho, Jeremy Chen, Fujiyoshi

Jun, Horichi Shiori, Ide Masahiro, Kai Hiroshi, Kamimoto Eiko, Kono Shintaro, Kuroki Shinya,

Matsukawa Akihiro, Sasaki Takeshi, Shibata Kayoko, Cameron Stadin, Takae Tomoko, Takatori Aki,

Taniguchi Yukiko, Yamasaki Keiko and Yoshida Kenji, and LP staff members Laura Crawford,

James Smart and Sarah Bailey, without whom none of this would have been possible.

Stephanie d’Arc Taylor

Thank you to the charming, clever and indefatigable Christine, who fed me soba as a child and gave

me my first copy of the Inland Sea. Without your help I couldn’t have done this, or anything. Thank

you to Chieko, Hidemasa, and to Teruko for saying that I use chopsticks better than Christine. Thank

you to my LP mentors Lauren Keith, Laura Crawford, Rebecca Milner, Craig McLachlan and James

Smart. Thank you to Bethan, who helped me prematurely celebrate this assignment.

Samantha Forge

Thank you to the wonderful people I met throughout Tōhoku for your knowledge, patience and

boundless kindness. I have never drunk so many cups of tea in my life. Huge thanks also to the other

Team Japan authors for their generosity and friendship, and to everyone at LP who has had a hand in

this project, especially the lovely Laura Crawford.

Craig McLachlan

A hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my living kanji dictionary

and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko.

Kate Morgan

Thank you again to Laura Crawford for the opportunity to work on Osaka and Kyoto, and to Jen

Carey for your help throughout. Huge thanks to Kengo Nakao from the Kyoto Tourist Information

office for your assistance. Thanks to my parents for joining me in Kyoto and keeping up the research

pace in the extreme heat! And to my friend Yuki and my fiancé Trent for great nights out, loads of

food and rock bar shenanigans. Thanks also to all the inhouse staff at LP who make this book

happen.

Thomas O’Malley

Thanks to my esteemed fellow authors Simon and Rebecca for assisting this Japan Guide noob in the

ways of the road warrior. Thanks to Family Mart and its konbini cohorts for all those cut-price

caffeine hits on the road. Thanks to Mt Fuji for finally showing your beautiful face after days cloaked

in cloud (I almost wept). Thanks to the two Ō-shima Island Aussies, Chloe and Caitlin. And thanks,

as ever, to Ophelia.

Simon Richmond

Many thanks to co-writer Rebecca and to the following: Will Andrews, Toshiko Ishii, Kenichi, Giles

Murray, Chris Kirkland, Shoji Kobayashi, Jun Onuma, Sabrina Suljevic, Ken Gail Kato, Toyokuni

Honda, Tim Hornyak and Tomoko Yoshizawa.

Phillip Tang

Warm thanks to patient tourism staffers and travellers who shared their experiences. Thanks Laura

Crawford for having me again; Japan will miss you. Thanks to ‘David’ Tong Wai Chung for skewers

and whiskey highballs in Okayama, and tips on Izumo. Huge thanks to Chizu Otsuka at Tomato in

Hiroshima. In Tokyo, arigato Nic for craft beers and ‘life’ talks; and Ayako for incredible chicken,

weird waiters and Korean ‘husbands’. Thanks in spirit to Vek Lewis for running guidance.

Benedict Walker

Big thanks as always to my Japanese ‘family’ the Shimizus for their continued friendship and fun, to

Laura Crawford for keeping me on the team, to James Smart for his patience at submission time, to

Taku Yamada and Kei Nakamura for your guidance and advice; to Cheryl, Bruce, Jess and Casey for

being very sticky soul-glue; to Mum and the Walkers for watching over me from afar, and to my

brother Andy for coming through with the goods and shining like a beacon of inspiration when I least

expected it. To the resilient people of these remote island communities, where mother nature rules:

you’ve forever won a place in my heart: ganbarō!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World

Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–

44.

Cover photograph: Red-crowned cranes, Hokkaido, Ondrej Prosicky/Shutterstock ©.

THIS BOOK

This 16th edition of Lonely Planet’s Japan guidebook was researched and written by Rebecca

Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Samantha Forge, Thomas O’Malley, Craig McLachlan,

Kate Morgan, Simon Richmond, Phillip Tang, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Benedict Walker. The

previous edition was written by Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Craig

McLachlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Richmond, Tom Spurling, Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker

and Wendy Yanagihara. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Laura Crawford, James Smart

Senior Product Editor Kate Chapman

Product Editor Shona Gray

Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt

Assisting Cartographers Michael Garrett, Alison Lyall

Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep

Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Heather

Champion, Samantha Cook, Lucy Cowie, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Lauren

O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Simon Williamson

Cover Researcher Brendan Dempsey-Spencer

Thanks to Naoko Akamatsu, William Allen, Jennifer Carey, Gwen Cotter, Liz Heynes, Kate

James, Elizabeth Jones, Campbell McKenzie, Virginia Moreno, Wayne Murphy, Kirsten

Rawlings, Brad Smith

eBook thanks to Julie J. Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Wayne Murphy, John Taufa and Juan

Winata.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a

sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen

Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across

Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several

months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at

their kitchen table writing and stapling together their

first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely

Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing

and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great

guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Rebecca Milner

Tokyo, Kansai

California-born, living in Tokyo since 2002. Co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo and Japan.

Freelance writer covering travel, food & culture. Published in the Guardian, the Independent, the

Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more.

Ray Bartlett

Hokkaidō

Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico,

Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-

industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. Ray currently divides his time between homes in the

USA, Japanand Mexico.

Andrew Bender

Kyūshū

Award-winning travel and food writer Andrew Bender has written three dozen Lonely Planet

guidebooks (from Amsterdam to Los Angeles, Germany to Taiwan and over a dozen titles about

Japan), plus numerous articles for lonelyplanet.com. Speaking of Japan, Andy also is a tour leader

and tour planner for visits to Japan. Follow him on Twitter @wheresandynow.

Stephanie d’Arc Taylor

Japan Alps & Central Honshū, Hokkaidō

A native Angeleno, Stephanie grew up with the west LA weekend ritual of going for Iranian sweets

after ten zaru soba in Little Osaka. Later, she quit her PhD to move to Beirut and become a writer.

Since then, she has published work with the New York Times, Guardian, Roads & Kingdoms, and

Kinfolk Magazine, and co-founded Jaleesa, a venture-capitally funded social impact business in

Beirut. Follow her on Instagram @zerodarctaylor.

Samantha Forge

Northern Honshū

Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed

backpack and a copy of LP’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to

Australia to work as an editor in LP’s Melbourne office. Eventually her wanderlust got the better of

her, and she now works as a freelance writer and editor.

Craig McLachlan

Japan Alps & Central Honshū, Shikkoku

Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in

Queenstown, New Zealand for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake

brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet.

Craig has completed a number of adventures in Japan and his books are available on Amazon. Check

out www.craigmclachlan.com.

Kate Morgan

Kansai, Kyoto

Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has worked as a travel writer on

destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has

done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions

in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys

spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Thomas O’Malley

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

A British writer based in Beijing, Tom is a world-leading connoisseur of cheap eats, dive bars, dark

alleyways and hangovers. He has contributed travel stories to everyone from the BBC to Playboy,

and reviews hotels for the Telegraph. Under another guise, he is a comedy scriptwriter. Follow him

by walking behind at a distance.

Simon Richmond

Tokyo

Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s

and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped

counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries

covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma),

Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey.

Phillip Tang

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Phillip Tang grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico

City. A degree in Chinese and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing

about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides.

Writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang.

Benedict Walker

Okinawa & the Southwest Islands

A beach baby from Newcastle, Australia, Benedict turned 40 in 2017 and decided to start a new life

in Leipzig, Germany. Writing for LP was a childhood dream and he has covered big chunks of

Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, USA, Switzerland, Sweden and Japan. Follow him on Instagram

@wordsandjourneys.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

16th edition – August 2019

ISBN 978 1 78868 538 2

© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief

extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the

written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of

Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries.

Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such

as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we

make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent

permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Document Outline

- Table of Contents

- Welcome to Japan

- Japan’s Top 24

- Need to Know

- First Time Japan

- What’s New

- If You Like...

- Month by Month

- Itineraries

- Off the Beaten Track

- Japan by the Seasons

- Activities

- Eat & Drink Like a Local

- Travel with Children

- Japan on a Budget

- Regions at a Glance

- Tokyo

- Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

- The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

- Kyoto

- Kansai

- Hiroshima & Western Honshū

- Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

- Sapporo & Hokkaidō

- Shikoku

- Kyūshū

- Okinawa & The Southwest Islands

- Japan Today

- History

- The People of Japan

- Arts

- Architecture & Gardens

- Environment

- Sport

- Traditional Accommodation

- Directory A–Z

- Transport

- Language

- Behind the Scenes

- Our Writers

Table of Contents

- Table of Contents

- Welcome to Japan

- Japan’s Top 24

- Need to Know

- First Time Japan

- What’s New

- If You Like...

- Month by Month

- Itineraries

- Off the Beaten Track

- Japan by the Seasons

- Activities

- Eat & Drink Like a Local

- Travel with Children

- Japan on a Budget

- Regions at a Glance

- Tokyo

- Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

- The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

- Kyoto

- Kansai

- Hiroshima & Western Honshū

- Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

- Sapporo & Hokkaidō

- Shikoku

- Kyūshū

- Okinawa & The Southwest Islands

- Japan Today

- History

- The People of Japan

- Arts

- Architecture & Gardens

- Environment

- Sport

- Traditional Accommodation

- Directory A–Z

- Transport

- Language

- Behind the Scenes

- Our Writers

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Welcome to Japan

Japan’s Top 24

Need to Know

First Time Japan

What’s New

If You Like...

Month by Month

Itineraries

Off the Beaten Track

Japan by the Seasons

Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Travel with Children

Japan on a Budget

Regions at a Glance

Tokyo

Mt Fuji & Around Tokyo

The Japan Alps & Central Honshū

Kyoto

Kansai

Hiroshima & Western Honshū

Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

Shikoku

Kyūshū

Okinawa & The Southwest Islands

Japan Today

History

The People of Japan

Arts

Architecture & Gardens

Environment

Sport

Traditional Accommodation

Directory A–Z

Transport

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers