We
stayed on the main drag for maybe another half-mile before turning left
onto a much narrower road. Ahead of us in the distance, on the high
ground, I could just make out the superstructure and high load of a
container ship, looking bizarre as it cut the green skyline.
“That’s where we’re
heading, the Miraflores locks,” Aaron said. “It’s the
only place around here to get a drink now—everyone moving along
this road comes here, it’s like a desert watering hole.”
As we started to reach the higher ground of
the lock a scene unfolded that made me wonder if Clinton was about to
visit. The place was packed with vehicles and people. A line of
brightly colored buses had brought an American-style marching band and
eighteen-year-old baton twirlers. Red tunics, white pants, and silly
hats with feathers sticking out were blowing into white enameled
trombones and all sorts of horns as the baton girls, squeezed into red
leotards and white knee-high boots, whirled their chrome sticks and
streamers. It was a zoo up here: teams putting up bunting, unloading
fold-up wooden chairs from trucks, lumbering around with scaffolding
poles over their shoulders.
“Uh-oh,” Aaron sighed, “I thought it was going to be on Saturday.”
“What?”
“The Ocaso.”
We drove into the large wired compound,
jam-packed with private vehicles and tour company MPVs, around which
were dotted some smart and well-maintained colonial-style buildings.
The sounds of brass instruments tuning up and fast, excited Spanish
poured into the cab.
“Not with you, mate. What’s the Ocaso?”
“It’s a cruise liner, one of the
biggest. It means ‘sunset’ in English. Two thousand
passengers plus. It’s been coming through here for years, runs
out of San Diego to the Caribbean.”
While trying to find a parking space, he
checked out some posters stuck up along a chain-link fence.
“Yeah, it’s this Saturday, the four-hundredth and final
transit. It’s going to be a big deal. TV stations, politicians,
some of the cast of The Bold and the Beautiful will be on board—that show’s a big deal here. This must be the dress rehearsal.”
Just a few yards past the buses and
chain-link, I caught my first glimpse of the enormous concrete locks,
flanked by immaculately cut grass. None of it looked as breathtaking as
I’d been expecting, more a hugely scaled-up version—about
three hundred yards long and thirty wide—of any normal-sized set
of canal locks.
Maneuvering into the first lock was the
rust-streaked blue and white ship, five stories high and maybe six
hundred feet long, powered by its own engines but being guided by six
stubby-looking but obviously powerful aluminum electric trains on
rails, three on each side. Six cables slung between the hull and the
trains, four at the rear, the other two up front, helped guide it
between the concrete walls without touching.
Aaron sounded off with the tour-guide bit as
he squeezed between two cars. “You’re looking at maybe six
thousand automobiles in there, heading for the west coast of the
States. Four percent of the world’s trade and fourteen of the
U.S.’s passes through here. It’s an awesome amount of
traffic.” He gave a sweep of his hand to emphasize the scale of
the waterway in front of us. “From the Bay of Panama here on the
Pacific side up to the Caribbean, it only takes maybe eight to ten
hours. Without the canal you could spend two weeks sailing around Cape
Horn.”
I was nodding with what I hoped was the
required amount of awe when I saw where we’d be getting our
Cokes. A truck-trailer had grown roots in the middle of the parking lot
and become a café-and-tourist-shop. White plastic garden chairs
were scattered around matching tables shaded by multicolored sun
umbrellas. Hanging up for sale were enough souvenir T-shirts to clothe
an army. We found a space and got out. It was sweltering, but at least
I could peel my sweatshirt off my back.
Aaron headed toward the side window to join
the line of tourists and two red tunics, each with a lump of brass
under their arm, as they leered at a group of athletic-looking baton
girls paying for their drinks. “I’ll get us a couple of
cold ones.”
I stood under one of the parasols and watched
the ship inch into the lock. I took off my Jackie O’s and cleaned
them: the glare made me regret it immediately.
The sun was merciless, but the lock workers
seemed impervious to it, neatly dressed in overalls and hard hats as
they went about their jobs. There was an air of brisk efficiency about
the proceedings as a loudspeaker system sounded off quick, businesslike
radio traffic in Spanish, just managing to make itself heard above the
nightmare around the buses and the clatter of scaffolding poles. A
four-tier grandstand was being erected on the grass facing the lock,
supplementing the permanent one to the left of it, by the
visitors’ center, which was also covered in bunting. Saturday was
going to be very busy indeed.
The ship was nearly into the lock, with just
a couple of feet to spare on each side. Tourists watched from the
permanent viewing platform, clicking away with their Nikons, as the
band drifted onto the grass. Some of the girls practiced their splits,
professional smiles, and top and bottom wiggles as they got into ranks.
The only person at ground level who seemed
not to be looking at the girls was a white man in a fluorescent pink,
flowery Hawaiian shirt. He was leaning against a large, dark blue GMC
Suburban, watching the ship as he smoked with deep, long drags. The guy
was using his free hand to wave the bottom of his shirt to circulate
some air. His stomach had been badly burned, leaving a large scar the
size of a pizza that looked like melted plastic. Shit, that must have
been painful. I was glad my stomach pain was just from a session with
Sundance’s Caterpillars.
Apart from the windshield, all the
GMC’s windows had been blackened out with film. I could see it
was a do-it-yourself job by a snag mark in one of the rear door
windows. It made a clear triangle where the plastic had been ripped
down three or four inches.
Then, as if he’d just realized
he’d forgotten to lock his front door, Pizza Man jumped into the
truck and drove out. Maybe the real reason was because he had a false
plate on the GMC and he didn’t want any of the police to
scrutinize it. The truck had been cleaned, but not well enough to match
the even cleaner plate. I’d always hit the car wash immediately
before changing plates, then took a drive in the country to mess both
the plate and the bodywork before using the vehicle for work. I bet
there were a lot of people with false plates down here, keeping the
banking sector vibrant.
A fragile-looking Jacob’s ladder of
wooden slats and knotted rope was dropped over the side of the ship and
two men in pristine white shirts and pants climbed aboard from the
grass below, just as Aaron came back with four cans of Minute Maid.
“No Coke—they’ve been overrun today.”
We sat in the shade and watched the hydraulic
rams slowly push the gates shut, and the water—twenty-seven
million gallons of it, according to Aaron—flooded into the lock.
The ship rose into the sky before us as the scaffolders downed tools
and took a seat in preparation for the girls’ rehearsal.
Quiet contemplation obviously wasn’t
Aaron’s thing and he was soon blathering on. “You see, the
canal isn’t as most people think, just a big ditch cut through
the country, like the Suez. No, no, no. It’s a very complicated
piece of engineering—quite amazing to think it’s more or
less Victorian.”
I had no doubt it was completely fascinating, but I had other, more depressing, things on my mind.
“The Miraflores, and the other two sets
farther up, lift or drop these ships eighty feet. Once up there, they
just sail on over the lake and then get lowered again to sea level on
the other side. It’s kind of like a bridge over the isthmus. Pure
genius—the eighth wonder of the world.”
I pulled the ring on my second orange juice
and nodded toward the lock. “Bit of a tight fit, isn’t
it?” That’d keep him babbling for a while.
He responded as if he’d designed the
thing himself. “No problem—they’re all built to
Panamax specifications. Shipyards have been keeping the size of the
locks in mind for decades now.”
The vessel continued to rise like a
skyscraper in front of me. Just then, the trumpets, drums, and whistles
started up as the band broke into a quick-tempo samba and the girls did
their stuff to the delight of the scaffolders.
Ten minutes later, when the water levels were
equal, the front gate was opened and the process began all over again.
It was like a giant staircase. The batons were still getting thrown
into the air and the band was marching up and down the grass. Everyone
seemed to be getting very Latin as some of the brass section chanced a
few dance moves of their own as they strutted their stuff.
A black Lexus 4x4 with gold-mirrored side
windows pulled up opposite the café. The windows slid down to
reveal two shirt-and-tied white-eyes. The front-seat passenger, a
muscular, well-tanned twentysomething, got out and went straight to the
trailer window, ignoring the line. One of the new small, chrome-effect
Nokias glinted from his belt along with a weapon holstered on his right
hip. Just as with the GMC, however, I thought nothing of it—after
all, this was Central America. I just tilted my head back to get the
last of the drink down my throat, thinking of getting another couple
for the journey.
A young American voice called out from the
Lexus as the twentysomething went back with the drinks. “Hey, Mr.
Y! What’s happening, man?”
Aaron’s head jerked around, his face
breaking into a smile. He waved. “Hey, Michael, and how are you?
How was your break?”
I turned as well. My head was still back but I instantly recognized the grinning face leaning out of the rear passenger window.
Finishing the drink, I brought my head down
as Aaron moved over to the car. My tiredness disappeared as adrenaline
pumped. This was not good, not good at all. I looked at the floor,
pretending to relax, and tried to listen above the music.
The boy held out a hand for Aaron to shake,
but his eyes were on the girls. “I’m sorry, I can’t
get out of the car—my father says I have to stay in with Robert
and Ross. I heard they’d be here today, thought I’d get a
look on the way home, know what I mean, Mr. Y? Didn’t you check
out the pom-pom girls? I mean, before you got married…”
I could see that the two BG (bodyguards)
weren’t remotely distracted by the girls or the infectious Latin
tempo; they were doing their job. Their faces were impassive behind
tinted sunglasses as they drank from their cans. The engine was running
and I could see the moisture drip from the air-conditioning reservoir
onto the pavement.
The band stopped playing and now marched to
the command of a bass drum. Michael jabbered on with excitement, and
something he said made Aaron arch an eyebrow. “England?”
“Yes, I returned yesterday. There was a
bomb and some terrorists were killed. My father and I were very close
by, in the Houses of Parliament.”
Aaron showed his surprise as Michael pulled
back the ring on his can. “Hey, Nick, did you hear that?”
He pointed me out to the target with a cock of his head.
“Nick—he’s British.”
Shit, shit, Aaron—no!
Michael’s eyes turned to me and he
smiled, displaying perfect white teeth. The BG also moved their heads
casually to give me the once-over. This wasn’t good.
I smiled and studied the target. He had short
black shining hair, side parted, and his eyes and nose looked slightly
European. His smooth unblemished skin was darker than most Chinese.
Maybe his mother was Panamanian, and he spent a lot of time in the sun.
Aaron had realized he had fucked up and
stammered, “He kind of hitched a lift from me in the city to take
a look at the locks—you know, and check out the
chicks….”
Michael nodded, not really that fussed. I
turned back to the ship as it left the dock, wanting very much to walk
right over and ram my can into Aaron’s mouth.
After a minute or so of university stuff
Michael got a nod from the BG and started to wind down the
conversation. As he held out his hand again for a farewell he glanced
over one more time at the leotards and pom-poms. A whistle sounded out
commands and the drums sparked up once more. “I have to go now.
Will I see you next week, Mr. Y?”
“Sure thing.” Aaron gave him a high-five. “You get that project done?”
“I think you’ll like it. Anyway,
catch you later.” Out of politeness he nodded to me over
Aaron’s shoulder, then the window powered up and the Lexus moved
off, leaving behind a poodle-size piss puddle from the air-conditioning.
Aaron waved until they were out of sight,
then spun toward me, his face abject as the brass section and girls
joined in the fast drum rhythm. “Nick, I’m really
sorry.” He shook his head. “I just didn’t think.
I’m not really cut out for this kind of thing. That’s
Charlie’s son—did I tell you he’s in the course I
teach? I’m sorry, I just didn’t think.”
“It’s okay, mate. No damage
done.” I was lying. The last thing I needed was to be introduced
to the target and, even worse, have the BG knowing what I looked like.
There was also the connection with Aaron. My heart was pounding. All in
all, not a good day out.
“Those guys with him—Robert and
Ross? They’re the ones who hung up those Colombians.
They’re Charlie’s special guys, I’ve heard stories
about—” Aaron’s expression suddenly changed.
“Did you have something to do with that bomb in London? I mean,
is this all about—”
I shook my head as I swallowed the last of the juice. I could feel the blood rushing around my head.
“I’m sorry, it’s not any of my business. I don’t really want to know.”
I wasn’t too sure if he’d
believed me, but it didn’t matter. “How far have we got
left to Michael’s house?”
“Like I said, five, maybe six miles. If
the picture back at our place is anything to go by, it’s some
kind of palace.”
I started to get my cash out as I walked
toward the trailer window. “I think I’d better have a look
at it, then, don’t you? What about another drink while we wait
for Michael to get home and settle down?”
The expression on his face still said guilty.
“Tell you what,” I said, “you buy and then we’re even.”
At least that got a fleeting smile out of him
as he delved into his grubby pockets for coins. “And see if they
have anything for a headache, could you?”
Over on the other side of the parking lot was
an ATM with the HSBC logo. I knew I wouldn’t be able to withdraw
any more money today, but within hours of my attempting to, the Yes Man
would at least know I was in-country.
We spent the next forty minutes killing time
at the plastic table with just the sound of the trains humming along
their tracks as the entertainment took a break for lunch. I had the
Jackie O’s back on, trying to rest my eyes and head. It seemed no
one ever got a headache around here.
Aaron took the opportunity to explain about
the U.S. pullout the previous December. The fact that he could reel off
all the dates and numbers so precisely emphasized his bitterness about
what had happened.
In total, more than four hundred thousand
acres of Canal Zone and bases, worth more than $10 billion, had been
handed over—along with the canal itself, which had been built and
paid for by the U.S. to the tune of a further $30 billion. And the only
way they could come back was under the terms of the DeConcini
Reservation, which allowed for military intervention if the canal was
endangered.
It was all interesting stuff, but what was
more important to me was confirming that Michael would be at the
university this week.
“For sure.” Aaron nodded.
“They’ll all be headed back. The fall semester started for
most folks last week.”
We headed for the house, driving into
Clayton. Aaron explained that now the U.S. had gone, Charlie had gotten
his hands on some of the Zone and built on it.
The only security these days at the guard
house was an old guy sleeping on the porch of the guard room with half
a glass of something resembling black tea by his side, looking quite
annoyed to be woken up to lift the barrier.
Clayton might become a technology park one
day, but not yet. We passed deserted barrack blocks with tall grass
growing between them. The U.S. Army’s legacy was still very much
in evidence. I could see stenciling on steel plates above every barrack
door: Building 127, HQ Theater Support Brigade, Fort Clayton, Panama, U.S. Army South.
I wondered if our SOUTHCOM bosses during my time in Colombia had sent
us our satellite photography and orders from these very buildings.
The neighborhood looked as if it had been
evacuated before a hurricane. The children’s swings between the
deserted bungalows and palm-fringed, two-floor apartment blocks were
showing the first signs of rust through their blue paintwork, and the
baseball field, which needed a good mowing, still had the results of
the last game displayed on the scoreboard. U.S. road signs told us to
travel at 15 m.p.h. because of children playing.
We reached the other side of the massive fort
complex and headed into the mountains. The jungle closed in on both
sides of the narrow, winding asphalt road. I could only see about five
yards; after that everything blurred into a wall of green. I’d
heard about a patrol in Borneo in the sixties who had a man down with a
gunshot wound. It wasn’t fatal, but he did need evacuation.
Leaving him comfortable at the bottom of a high feature, all hands
moved uphill to cut a winch point out of the jungle so the rescue
helicopter could pull him out and med-evac him to a hospital. This was
no big deal, and the wounded man would have been airborne by last light
if only they hadn’t made the fatal error of not leaving anyone
with him or marking where he was lying. It took them over a week to
find where they’d left him, even though it was less than a
hundred yards away at the bottom of the hill. By then he was dead.
The sun beat down on the windshield, showing
up all the bugs that had smashed against it and been smeared by the
wipers. It couldn’t have been easy for Aaron to see through.
This was secondary jungle; movement through
it would be very, very difficult. I much preferred primary, where the
canopy is much higher and the sun finds it difficult to penetrate to
ground level so there’s less vegetation. It’s still a pain
in the ass to travel through, because there’s still all kinds of
stuff on the ground.
Gray clouds were starting to cover the sky
and make everything darker. I thought again about all the months
I’d spent living in jungles while on operations. You’d come
out twenty-five pounds lighter, and because of the lack of sunlight
your skin became as white and clammy as an uncooked french fry, but I
really liked it. I always had a fantastic sense of anticipation when I
entered jungle, because it’s the most wonderful place to be;
tactically, compared with any other terrain, it’s a great
environment to operate in. Everything you need is there: shelter, food,
and, more importantly, water. All you really have to get used to is the
rain, bites by mozzies (anything small that flies), and 95 percent
humidity.
Aaron leaned forward and peered up through the windshield. “Here they are, look—right on time.”
The gray clouds had disappeared, pushed out
by blacker ones. I knew what that meant and, sure enough, the sky
suddenly emptied on us. It was like sitting under an upturned bath. We
hurriedly wound up our windows, but only about three-quarters of the
way, because humidity was already misting up the inside of the
windshield. Aaron hit the defroster, and its noise was drowned as the
roof took a pounding.
Lightning cracked and sizzled, splashing the
jungle with brilliant blue light. An almighty clap of thunder boomed
above us. It must have set off a few car alarms back at the locks.
Aaron slowed the car to walking pace as the
wipers went into hyperdrive, slapping each side of the windshield and
having no effect at all as rain dashed into the pavement and bounced
back into the air. Water splattered through the top of the side window,
spraying my shoulder and face.
I shouted at him, above the drumming on the roof. “Does this road go straight to Charlie’s house?”
Aaron was leaning over the wheel, busy wiping
the inside of the windshield. “No, no—this is a loop, just
access to an electricity substation. The new private road to the house
leads off from it. I thought maybe I could drop you off where the two
join, otherwise I’d have nowhere to go.”
That seemed perfectly reasonable to me. “How far to the house from the junction?”
“If the scale on the imagery is right,
maybe a mile, a mile and then some. All you’ve got to do is
follow the road.”
The deluge continued as we crawled uphill. I
leaned down and felt under my seat, trying to find something to protect
my documents. I wasn’t going to leave them with Aaron: they were
going everywhere with me, like communication codes, to be kept on the
body at all times.
Aaron looked at me. “What do you
need?” He was still strained forward against the wheel, as if
that were going to help him see any better through the solid sheet of
rain as we crawled along at about 10 m.p.h.
I explained.
“You’ll find something in the back, for sure. Won’t be long now, maybe two or three miles.”
That was fine by me. I sat back and let myself be mesmerized by the rain bouncing around us.
We followed the road as it curved to the
right, then Aaron moved over to the edge of the road and stopped. He
pointed just ahead of us. “That’s the road that goes to the
house. Like I said, maybe a mile, a mile and a half. They say from up
there Chan can see the sun rise over the Caribbean and set in the
Pacific. What do you want me to do now?”
“First, just stay here and let me get into the back.”
I got out and put my jacket back on.
Visibility was down to maybe twenty yards. Rain hammered on the top of
my head and shoulders.
I went to the rear of the truck and opened
the tailgate. I was soaked to the skin before I got halfway. I was just
pleased not to be in a country where being wet also meant freezing my
balls off.
I rummaged around in the back. Four
five-gallon U.S. Army fuel cans were fixed with bungee cords to the far
end of the flatbed, adjacent to the cab. At least we wouldn’t be
running out of fuel. Scattered around them were more yellowing
newspapers, a tire jack, a nylon towrope, and all the associated crap
that would be needed for a wreck like this. Among it, I found what I
was looking for, two small plastic bags. One contained a pair of greasy
old jump-leads, the other was empty, apart from a few bits of dried mud
and vegetable leaves. I shook them both out, tucked my passport, plane
ticket, and wallet into the first and wrapped them up. I put that into
the second, gave it a twist, and placed it in an inside pocket of my
jacket.
I had another look around, but found nothing
else that could be of any use to me on the recce. Slamming the
tailgate, I went around to Aaron’s door and put my face up
against the gap in the window. “Can you give me that compass,
mate?” I had to shout to be heard.
He leaned across, unstuck it from the
windshield, and passed it through. “Sorry, I didn’t think
about it. I should have brought a good one, and a map.”
I couldn’t be bothered to say it
wasn’t a problem. My head was banging big-time and I wanted to
get on. Water cascaded down my face and off my nose and chin as I
pressed the illumination button on Baby-G.
“When’s last light?”
“Six-thirty, or thereabouts.”
“It’s just past three-thirty.
Drive well away from here, all the way back to the city, whatever. Then
come back to this exact spot at three A.M.”
He nodded without even thinking about it.
“Okay, park here, and wait ten minutes.
Keep the passenger door unlocked and just sit in the car with the
engine running.” On a job, the engine must always be kept
running: if you switch it off, Murphy’s law dictates that
it’s not going to start up again. “You also need to think
of a story in case you’re stopped. Say you’re looking for
some rare plant or something.”
He stared vacantly through the windshield.
“Yes, that’s a good idea. In fact the barrigon tree is
common in disturbed areas and along roads and—”
“That’s good, mate, good,
whatever works, but make sure the story’s in your head by the
time you pick me up, so it sounds convincing.”
“Okay.” He nodded sharply, still looking out of the window and thinking trees.
“If I’m not here by ten past
three, drive off. Then come back around again and do exactly the same
every hour until it gets light, okay?”
His eyes were still fixed on the windshield as he nodded sharply. “Okay.”
“Then, at first light, I want you to
quit. Stop doing the circuit. Come back for me at midday, but not
here—wait at the locks, by the trailer. Wait for an hour,
okay?”
He nodded some more.
“Got any questions?”
He hadn’t. I figured I’d given
myself enough time, but if there was a mess-up and I didn’t make
this RV (rendezvous), all was not lost. I could get to a river, clean
all the jungle shit off, and, with luck, dry myself off if the sun was
shining tomorrow morning. Then I wouldn’t stand out too much once
I got among the real people at the locks.
“Now, worst-case scenario,
Aaron—and this is very, very important.” I was still
shouting above the noise of the rain. Rivulets of water ran down my
face and into my mouth. “If I don’t appear at the locks by
midday tomorrow, then you’d better call your handler and explain
exactly what I wanted you to do, all right?”
“Why’s that?”
“Because I’ll probably be dead.”
There was a pause. He was obviously shaken:
maybe he hadn’t realized what game we were playing here; maybe
he’d thought we really were here for the tree hugging.
“Have you got that?”
“Sure. I’ll just tell them, word
for word.” He was still looking through the windshield, frowning
and nodding.
I tapped on his window and he turned his
head. “Hey, don’t worry about it, mate. I’m just
planning for the worst. I’ll see you here at three.”
He smiled quite nervously. “I’ll fill up beforehand, yeah?”
I tapped once more on the glass. “Good idea. See you later, mate.”
Aaron drove off. The engine noise was drowned
by the rain. I walked off the road into the murky, twilight world of
the jungle. At once I was pushing against palm leaves and bushes.
Rainwater that had been trapped on them sluiced all over me.
I moved in about five yards to get out of
sight while I waited for Aaron to get well away from the area, and
plonked down in the mud and leaf litter, resting my back against a tree
trunk as yet more thunder erupted across the sky. Water still found me
as it cascaded from the canopy.
Pushing back my soaked hair with my hands I
brought up my knees and rested my forehead against them as the rain
found its way from the back of my neck and dripped away over my chin.
Underneath my jacket, my left arm was being chewed. I gave the material
a good rub and attempted to squeeze to death whatever had gotten up
there, quietly welcoming myself to Aaron’s “cathedral of
nature.” I should have looked out for some mozzie repellent in
the Miami departures lounge instead of a guidebook.
My jeans were wet and heavy, hugging my legs
as I stood up. I wasn’t exactly dressed for crawling around in
the jungle, but tough, I’d just have to get on with it. If I was
going to hunt, I had to get my ass over to where the ducks were, so I
headed back to the loop. For all I knew, it might have stopped raining
out there by now. Inside the canopy you’d never know because the
water still falls for ages as it makes its way down leaf by leaf.
I turned right onto the single-track paved
road: it was pointless moving through the jungle from this distance.
The downpour had eased a little, now only bouncing an inch or two off
the pavement, but it was still enough to mean that a vehicle
wouldn’t see me until it was right on top of me.
As I started to walk up the road I checked
the ball compass. I was heading uphill and west, as we had been all the
way from Clayton in the Mazda. I kept to one side so I could make a
quick entry into cover, and didn’t move too fast so I’d be
able to hear any approaching vehicles above the rasping of my soaked
jeans.
I still had no idea how I was going to do
this job, but at least I was in an environment I understood. I wished
Dr. Hughes could see me now: then she’d know there was something
I was good at.
I stopped and scratched the skin at the base of my spine to discourage whatever was munching at it, then moved on up the road.