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<DATE>2013-05-01</DATE>
<RESPSTMT>
<NAME>Colm MacCrossan</NAME>
<RESP>MURP</RESP>
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<ITEM>Proofed and reviewed.</ITEM>
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<TEXT LANG="eng">
<FRONT>
<DIV1 TYPE="title page">
<PB REF="1">
<PB REF="1">
<P>AN ACCOUNT OF Several Travels Through a great part of GERMANY: In Four Journeys.
<LIST>
<ITEM>I. From <HI>Norwich</HI> to <HI>Colen.</HI></ITEM>
<ITEM>II. From <HI>Colen</HI> to <HI>Vienna,</HI> with a particular De&s;cription of that Imperial City.</ITEM>
<ITEM>III. From <HI>Vienna</HI> to <HI>Hamburg.</HI></ITEM>
<ITEM>IV. From <HI>Colen</HI> to <HI>London.</HI></ITEM>
</LIST> WHEREIN The <HI>Mines, Baths,</HI> and other <HI>Curio&s;ities</HI> of tho&s;e Parts are Treated of. <HI>Illu&s;trated with Sculptures.</HI> By <HI>EDWARD BROWN</HI> M. D. Fellow of the College of Phy&s;icians of <HI>London,</HI> and of the <HI>Royal Society.</HI></P>
<P><HI>LONDON,</HI> Printed for <HI>Benj. Tooke,</HI> and are to be &s;old at the Sign of the <HI>Ship</HI> in St. <HI>Paul</HI>'s Church-yard. 1677.</P>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="license">
<PB REF="2">
<P>Imprimatur,</P>
<CLOSER><SIGNED>G. <HI>Jane</HI> R. P. D. <HI>Hen.</HI> Epi&s;c. <HI>Lond.</HI> &agrave; Sacris Dom.</SIGNED>
<DATE>Sept. 26. 1676.</DATE></CLOSER>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="to the reader">
<PB REF="2">
<HEAD>TO THE READER.</HEAD>
<P>_HAving given the Engli&s;h World an Account of &s;ome remote and &s;eldome travelled Countries of <HI>Europe,</HI> in the Year, 1673. I remained indifferent, as to the publi&s;hing any thing more, concerning nearer, or bet|ter known places; a great part whereof hath been delivered by &s;ome good, and ob&s;erving Writers; upon which con&s;ide|ration, though written &s;ome years &s;ince, the&s;e Papers have not come abroad, and had &s;till remained private, had not the de&s;ires of Friends &s;olicited this Publica|tion, and al&s;o a Promi&s;e in my former Book oblig'd me to &s;ay &s;omething of <HI>Vi|enna;</HI> as likewi&s;e my Journey unto that Place from <HI>England,</HI> by the <HI>Belgian Pro|vinces</HI>
<PB REF="3"> and <HI>Germany;</HI> and of my Return from <HI>Vienna</HI> by <HI>Au&s;tria Trans-Danu|biana, Moravia, Bohemia, Mi&s;nia, Saxonia,</HI> unto <HI>Hamburg;</HI> hereof I have therefore given &s;ome Account in this Work, not much engaging into the Policy and State Government of Places, which have been &s;o largely delivered, as to make up ju&s;t Volumes, but have rather &s;et down what is Naturally, Artificially, Hi&s;tori|cally, and Topographically remarkable; together with &s;ome Cu&s;tomes and Occur|rencies which might be acceptable unto the Inqui&s;itive Reader, or &s;erve as hints of further Enquiry, to &s;uch Per&s;ons as may hereafter Travel into tho&s;e Parts.</P>
</DIV1>
</FRONT>
<BODY>
<DIV1 TYPE="account">
<PB N="1" REF="3">
<HEAD>A JOURNEY FROM NORWICH TO COLEN in <HI>GERMANY.</HI></HEAD>
<P>_IN the year 1668. I left the large and plea&s;ant City of <HI>Norwich,</HI> and went by land to <HI>Yarmouth</HI> a Port Town in <HI>Norfolk,</HI> at the mouth of the River <HI>Hierus</HI> or <HI>Yare;</HI> large, fairly built and populous, very con&s;iderable for the great Herring fi&s;hing in the Au|tumn, and the commerce it maintain|eth in the Streights; <HI>Baltick, Briti&s;h</HI> and <HI>German</HI> Seas: With <HI>Italians, French, Spaniards, Dutch, Danes,</HI> and <HI>Swedes.</HI> I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging per&s;on, Sr. <HI>Iames Iohn&s;on,</HI> who al&s;o fur|ni&s;h't me with letters of Credit, to <HI>Am&s;terdam, Franck|fort, Venice</HI> and <HI>Vienna;</HI> Whereby I was readily and hand&s;omely accommodated in all Parts where I had af|terwards occa&s;ion to travel.</P>
<PB N="2" REF="4">
<P><HI>Augu&s;t</HI> the 14. about &s;ix a clock at night I went a|board the <HI>Angel-Ketch</HI> in <HI>Yarmouth</HI> Road, a Ve&s;&s;el of a|bout 55 Tuns, and we immediately &s;et &s;ayl for <HI>Rotter|dam;</HI> we left St. <HI>Nicholas-Sand</HI> on the Larboard, and after that the <HI>Nowles,</HI> a new Sand, not taken notice of to be rai&s;ed above twelve years before. We kept our cour&s;e all night, Ea&s;t and by South and Ea&s;t South Ea&s;t. The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night, but the Moon ri&s;ing there appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we di&s;covered <HI>Grave&s;andt</HI> Steeple. It is the cu&s;tom upon all this coa&s;t to &s;end out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea, and furni&s;h them with Pylots to bring them through the &s;ands, and no Ship is to refu&s;e one: Having taken in our Pylot, we &s;oon di&s;covered <HI>Gor&eacute;&eacute;</HI> Steeple, and then the <HI>Briel.</HI> We entred the River <HI>Mo&s;a,</HI> or <HI>Maes,</HI> a Large and noble Stream, which ari&s;ing in the Mountaines of <HI>Vauge,</HI> or <HI>Voge&s;us,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Verdun, Dinant, Namur, Liege, Mae&s;tricht, Ruremond, Venlo,</HI> and many con&s;iderable Places, doth here fall into the Ocean, we had a very plea&s;ant pa&s;&s;age up the River, &s;ayling by many neat Vil|lages, as <HI>Mae&s;e-&s;luys, Schedam, Delfshaven,</HI> and hand|&s;ome rowes of Trees upon the &s;hore, and arrived at <HI>Rot|terdam</HI> about &s;ix at night. This is one of the three chief pa&s;&s;ages by Sea into <HI>Holland,</HI> the other being by <HI>Flu&s;hing</HI> and the <HI>Texell.</HI> The neare&s;t cut out of <HI>Eng|land</HI> into <HI>Holland</HI> is from <HI>Lai&s;toffe</HI> Point to <HI>Grave|&s;andt,</HI> which is 28 Leagues, and the deepe&s;t part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of the grea|te&s;t Ships in <HI>Holland</HI> at that time near <HI>Rotterdam,</HI> the <HI>Crane</HI> and the <HI>Wa&s;&s;enaer;</HI> this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral <HI>Opdam</HI> was blown up, fighting again&s;t his Royal Highne&s;s the Duke of <HI>Yorke.</HI> The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the towne by water are
<PB N="3" REF="4"> hand&s;ome, and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers &s;treets without difficulty, (their Channels being deep and large) the hou&s;es are well built, and the town Populous, they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at, the &s;treets are &s;o clean that the Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgwi&s;e. The <HI>Landthui&s;e</HI> hath a fair front. In the great Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of <HI>De wit,</HI> upon the Bridge the Statue of <HI>Era&s;mus,</HI> as al&s;o the hou&s;e where he was born, and the Plea&s;ure boats of the States are worth the &s;eeing. It be|ing then the time of their <HI>Kermis</HI> or Faire, there were playes acted and many rarities &s;hewn, as <HI>Lions, Leopards,</HI> &amp;c, and a great noi&s;e was made about a tall Woman to be &s;hewn of &s;even foot high; but the Boor of <HI>Leckerkir'k,</HI> not far from this town, was higher. <HI>Par&s;ons</HI> and <HI>Evans,</HI> porters to King <HI>Charles</HI> the fir&s;t, did al&s;o exceed her, but I have &s;eldom heard of any that was taller than <HI>Martin Wierw&s;ki</HI> a Polander, who at the age of forty two years was pre&s;ented to the Emperour <HI>Maximilian</HI> the &s;econd, as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high, who&s;e picture, as big as the life, I &s;aw, near to the <HI>Franci&s;cans</HI> Con|vent at <HI>Vienna</HI> in <HI>Au&s;tria.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Rotterdam</HI> I pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Over&s;chee</HI> to <HI>Delft,</HI> by the Powderhou&s;e, which is a hand&s;ome one, built now at &s;ome di&s;tance from the towne to prevent the like acci|dent which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town. The <HI>Piazza</HI> or market-place is a very fair one, having the front of the town hou&s;e at one end of it, and the high &s;teeple of the new Church at the o|ther. In the old Church, <HI>Van-Tromps</HI> Tombe is very well carved upon the &s;ide of the Wall, him&s;elf lying up|on a Canon encompa&s;&s;ed with Arms and trophies. In the middle I&s;le of the new Church there is a noble
<PB N="4" REF="5"> monument, the Tombe of <HI>William</HI> of <HI>Na&s;&s;aw</HI> Prince of <HI>Orange,</HI> together with his Wife and Son, Prince <HI>Maurice;</HI> his <HI>Statua</HI> is in armour with his Dog at his feet, and four Obelisks are &s;upported by ten Marble pillars. In a hou&s;e of this Town there were &s;hewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets &s;hot at Prince <HI>William,</HI> who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and &s;pacious I &s;aw a hand&s;ome Tomb for Sr. <HI>Charles Morgans</HI> Lady, and the Monument of <HI>Peter Hein</HI> the Admiral, who took the <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Silver|&s;leet.</P>
<P>The <HI>Hague, Haga Comitis,</HI> the ancient place of Re&s;i|dence of the Counts of <HI>Holland,</HI> and now of the States ge|neral; is about an hours-going di&s;tant from <HI>Delft;</HI> in which pa&s;&s;age, at &s;ome di&s;tance, we had a &s;ight of two of the Prince of <HI>Orange's</HI> hou&s;es. This place is well built; the Prince's Court hand&s;ome; The <HI>Piazza</HI> by it full of green trees; many fair Hou&s;es. The Cour&s;e where the Coach|es meet, the Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much beautifie it, and the way from hence to <HI>Scheveling,</HI> from whence his Maje&s;ty returned into <HI>England,</HI> is very remark|able, it being a &s;treight way cut through the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each hand four or five rows of Trees, and <HI>Scheveling</HI> Steeple at the end of it.</P>
<P>The <HI>Hague</HI> and <HI>Mad rid</HI> in <HI>Spain</HI> are accounted the greate&s;t Villages, or open unwalled places, in <HI>Europe,</HI> and the <HI>Hollanders</HI> have thought it more honour to be Ma&s;ters of the greate&s;t Village, than of a place which, if it were walled, would come &s;hort of many Cities; but this may prove a dangerous re&s;olution, for formerly upon this ad|vantage, <HI>Martin van Ro&s;&s;em,</HI> Captain to the Duke of <HI>Gueldres,</HI> &s;acked the <HI>Hague;</HI> and it was lately in the like danger when the <HI>French</HI> Forces lay at <HI>Utrecht</HI> and <HI>Wor|den,</HI>
<PB N="5" REF="5"> if they had forced a pa&s;&s;age into that part of <HI>Holland.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Leyden</HI> is three hours or three <HI>Dutch</HI> miles from the <HI>Hague,</HI> at pre&s;ent one of the neare&s;t Towns in <HI>Europe;</HI> Well built, hath divers large Streets, beautified with rowes of Trees, and the water pa&s;&s;ing through the middle of them, and al&s;o well fortified after the modern way; I took notice of that Antiquity called <HI>Hengi&s;t</HI> Ca&s;tle, or the <HI>Berg,</HI> &s;aid to be built by <HI>Hengi&s;t</HI> the <HI>Saxon,</HI> and went up to the top thereof: Upon the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a Well, out of which, they told us, they took a Fi&s;h alive when the Town was almo&s;t fami&s;hed during the &s;iege, which was &s;hewed to the Enemy over the wall, endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was, and to di&s;hearten the be&s;iegers. There are now hand&s;ome &s;tairs from the top to the bottom, and a good hou&s;e built by it, where they have their publick &s;ales and en|tertainments. But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea, than any above ground; not far from hence near <HI>Calwyck</HI> is a &s;quare fortre&s;s called <HI>Arx Britannica,</HI> built by <HI>Caligu|la;</HI> in the declining of the <HI>Roman</HI> Empire ruined in part by the <HI>Normans,</HI> and afterwards neglected, &amp; over whelm|ed by the Sea. But in &s;ome years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruines have been di&s;covered, and many no|ble Antiquities brought from it, &s;ome having this in|&s;cription <HI>Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori.</HI> The <HI>Stadthui&s;e</HI> hath a fair front towards the &s;treet. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of <HI>Skeletons.</HI> Two legs of an <HI>Elephant.</HI> The <HI>Skeleton</HI> of a young <HI>Whale,</HI> of a <HI>Hor&s;e, Deer, Cow, Cat, Fox,</HI> and many other Animals; divers <HI>Skeletons</HI> of Men and Women, &s;ome bodies pre&s;erved with their Mu&s;cles, and one intire, the fle&s;h, skin and all parts defended from corruption. I &s;aw al&s;o here what Mon&s;ieur <HI>de Bils</HI> pretended towards
<PB N="6" REF="6"> the pre&s;ervation of Bodies, but more accurately after|wards at Dr. <HI>Rui&s;ch</HI> his hou&s;e at <HI>Am&s;terdam</HI> The Phy&s;ick-garden, although but &s;mall, is well filled with Plants, where are al&s;o many other both natural, and artificiall Curio|&s;ities to be &s;een, and many &s;orts of <HI>Optick gla&s;&s;es.</HI> Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the <HI>Officina Elzeviriana</HI> on the top. In the Churches I &s;aw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgerma&s;ters, repre&s;ent|ing the day of Judgment, drawn by <HI>Lucas van Leyden,</HI> &s;o much e&s;teemed that, it is &s;aid, the Emperour <HI>Ru|dolphus</HI> would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The Table al&s;o upon which <HI>John</HI> of <HI>Leyden</HI> wrought whil&s;t he was a Taylor, is a Curio&s;ity, becau&s;e he proved afterwards &s;o con&s;iderable a di&s;turber of <HI>Germany,</HI> and came to be King of the <HI>Anabapti&s;ts.</HI></P>
<P>This City endured a hard &s;iege by the <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> forces, and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they &s;aved them&s;elves by overflowing the Country, and &s;o forcing the Enemies to make away with great lo&s;s; and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medall with this In&s;crip|tion.</P>
<P><HI>Ut Senacherib &agrave;</HI> Jeru&s;alem, <HI>&s;ic Hi&s;pani a Leydae noctu fu|gerunt.</HI> 1574.</P>
<P>From <HI>Leyden</HI> I came to <HI>Haerlem,</HI> a neat City, plea|&s;antly &s;eated and having a Grove near it. The great Church is e&s;teemed the large&s;t in <HI>Holland,</HI> with a very high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many In&s;criptions and Monuments, mo&s;t of which are tran&s;cribed and &s;et down in <HI>Gotfr. Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum.</HI> In the Prin|ce's hou&s;e are all the Earles of <HI>Holland</HI> Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-hou&s;e, the Pict|ure of <HI>Laurentius Co&s;terus,</HI> who is &s;aid to have fir&s;t in|vented the art of Printing in this Town; but others attri|bute
<PB N="7" REF="6"> it to <HI>Johannes Gottenberg,</HI> a <HI>German.</HI> On the o|ther &s;ide there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws, in memo|ry of the manner how <HI>Damiata</HI> in <HI>Egypt</HI> was formerly ta|ken by tho&s;e of this Town, who, as they report, accom|panied <HI>Frederick Barbaro&s;&s;a</HI> in an expedition again&s;t the <HI>Saracens,</HI> and when the men of <HI>Pelu&s;ium</HI> or <HI>Damiata</HI> had chamed up their Port, by this invention of fa&s;tning &s;trong Saws to the keels of their Ships, they cut the chains in &s;under, and &s;o took the Town. In the rooms are very good Paintings by <HI>Hemskerk,</HI> and <HI>Goltzius,</HI> as his <HI>Prometheus</HI> and other Peeces; but <HI>Cornelius van Haerlem</HI> mo&s;t delighted me, in his peeces of <HI>Herods</HI> kil|ling the Innocent Children; his fea&s;t of the Gods, in which <HI>Vulcans foot</HI> is e&s;teemed at a great rate; and ano|ther Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation, not in&s;e|riour to the re&s;t.</P>
<P>The old Mens hou&s;e, or an Ho&s;pital for &s;ixty aged per&s;ons, is large and hand&s;ome; having a good Qua|drangle and a Garden in it. The Ho&s;pital al&s;o for the &s;ick is very cleanly kept.</P>
<P>Here I fir&s;t &s;aw the manner of puni&s;hing Malefact|ours by whipping them with rods, which is more &s;e|vere than I imagined; they lead them to a Po&s;t upon a &s;caffold, their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended, and then an Iron fa&s;tned a|bout their wa&s;t to keep them &s;teady; in which &s;tretched|out po&s;ture they receive &s;ometimes fifty or &s;ixty &s;tripes or more, according to the merit of their offence.</P>
<P>Not far from this place there is a great Water, or no|ted Lake called <HI>Haerlem Meere</HI> about twenty miles in length, which is frozen over in hard Winters, and men &s;wiftly travel over it by &s;liding, or in &s;leds. When <HI>Haer|lem</HI> was be&s;ieged there was a Naval &s;ight upon it; The <HI>Dutch</HI> having about an hundred and fifty Ve&s;&s;els, and the
<PB N="8" REF="7"> <HI>Spaniards</HI> not many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Compo&s;ition, but &s;uch cruelty was u&s;ed by the <HI>Spaniards</HI> that they have not yet forgot it.</P>
<P>From <HI>Haerlem</HI> I went to <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> a City at pre|&s;ent for Riches, Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and plea&s;ant habitations, &s;carce yielding to any other of the World. It is &s;eated upon the River <HI>Ye,</HI> and hath its name, as 'tis reported, from a Ca&s;tle appertaining long &s;ince to the Lords of <HI>Am&s;tel,</HI> to whom this place al&s;o belonged: At the beginning, the &s;eat of a few fi&s;hermen; but after|wards increa&s;ing, it received many priviledges from the Counts of <HI>Holland,</HI> and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brick-wall, to defend it a|gain&s;t the Citizens of <HI>Utrecht,</HI> they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands, if tho&s;e of <HI>Utrecht</HI> had pur&s;ued their victories. In few Months after al&s;o, the whole Town was almo&s;t reduced to A&s;hes by fire, but by the increa&s;e of their Traffick they ea&s;ily overcame the&s;e lo&s;&s;es, waded through all difficulties, and rendred good &s;ervices to their Counts, and received the honour afterwards from <HI>Maximilian</HI> the Emperour to have the Imperiall Crown over their Armes, which are three <HI>Cro&s;|&s;es</HI> on a <HI>Pale</HI></P>
<P>About the year 1525. <HI>Gelen,</HI> &s;ent from the new King of <HI>Mun&s;ter,</HI> pa&s;&s;ed through <HI>Frie&s;land</HI> and came to this City; where having made a party, and communicated his de|&s;ign, he re&s;olved to &s;urprize the Town by night, at the time of the &s;ounding of the Bell; to which intent they were already entred the Market place, had &s;et upon the Town hou&s;e: and cut in pieces tho&s;e who re&s;i&s;ted them. When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away; the Magi&s;trates had notice of it, and cau&s;ed all the &s;treets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to
<PB N="9" REF="7"> be &s;topped up with Wool&s;acks and Hop&s;acks, whereby they were hindred in their de&s;ign of taking the Town by night, and the next morning their number being di&s;cover|ed to be incon&s;iderable, they were &s;et upon, driven into the <HI>Stadthuis,</HI> and defeated.</P>
<P>Of late years this City is mightily encrea&s;ed and en|compa&s;&s;ed with a new Wall, and fortified after the modern way. The new Streets are large and uniform: and the whole Town being in a low Mar&s;hy ground, the water is let in through all the con&s;iderable Streets. The River <HI>Am&s;tel</HI> pa&s;&s;eth through the City, being let in under a hand&s;ome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is &s;o built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly into the Earth &s;o thick together, that nothing more can be forced in between them: And by this means they build Hou&s;es in the Sea, and lay Foundations &s;trong enough to &s;upport the greate&s;t Buildings what&s;oever, in places where no &s;olid bottom is to be found. But they mu&s;t needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the fir&s;t Stone: And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is con&s;iderable; &s;ince for the Foun|dation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over again&s;t the Church of St. <HI>Katherine,</HI> Mr. <HI>J. de Parivall,</HI> who wrote <HI>Les Delices de la Hollande,</HI> reckoneth that there was ram|med into the ground a <HI>Forre&s;t,</HI> as he calls it, of Six thou|&s;and three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations, I &s;aw them employed in divers places, particularly at the <HI>Ea&s;t-India-hou&s;e,</HI> and at a place where a <HI>Lutheran</HI> Church was then de&s;igned to be built, So that it was not improbably &s;aid, <HI>That if a man could &s;ee all under this City, he could hardly behold a greater Forre&s;t.</HI></P>
<PB N="10" REF="8">
<P>The <HI>Stadthuis</HI> or <HI>Town-hou&s;e,</HI> is the noble&s;t Building in all the&s;e Countries. A Pile of Free&s;tone of an hundred and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. <HI>Peter</HI>'s at <HI>Rome,</HI> and eighty one paces deep, or on the &s;ides. The Chambers in it, the Pictures and Statues, are worthy to be &s;een and admi|red. The fir&s;t Room on the right hand, or <HI>Judgment|hall,</HI> where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is a|dorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in mournful po&s;tures, as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble; the Roofs are richly gil't and painted. Upon the top of all &s;tands <HI>Atlas</HI> or <HI>Columlus,</HI> holding a Globe upon his &s;houl|der made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which is as large perhaps as any Ball or Globe what&s;oever em|ployed to this ornamental u&s;e. That upon St. <HI>Peter</HI>'s at <HI>Rome,</HI> as having been in it, I judge to be le&s;s; as like|wi&s;e that at <HI>Florence.</HI> The <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Ornament to the Tower of their <HI>Mo&s;ques,</HI> is three Balls one above another, and an half Moon over them, but they are le&s;s by far, at lea&s;t &s;uch as I have &s;een: and by relation from Eye-wit|ne&s;&s;es, the large&s;t of the three noble gilded Balls at <HI>Mo|rocco</HI> are inferiour to this. But I will &s;ay nothing more of this great building, the <HI>Stadthuis,</HI> &s;ince there is a peculiar de&s;cription of it in Folio, with Cuts and Figures of the mo&s;t remarkable Curio&s;ities in it. The <HI>Exchange</HI> is fair and large, and above it are Shops: it is very well frequented, and he that cometh after twelve payeth &s;ix &s;tivers.</P>
<P>Divers of their Churches are fair: In the new Church, the partition with Balli&s;ters of Bra&s;s, and the carved Pul|pit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of <HI>Van Hul&s;e</HI> and <HI>Heemskerk</HI> are remarkable. <HI>Heemskerk</HI> did his Country great Services in their fir&s;t attempts upon <HI>In|dia:</HI>
<PB N="11" REF="8"> for the King of <HI>Spain</HI> having con&s;i&s;cated &s;ome of the <HI>Hollanders</HI> Ships, who traded to his Dominions, which were then the Staple for the <HI>India</HI> Trade. It was re&s;olved by the permi&s;&s;ion of Prince <HI>Maurice</HI> and the States, to &s;et out a Fleet of eight &s;hips for the <HI>Indies;</HI> four of which were to pa&s;s by the way of the <HI>Atlantick</HI> Ocean, and the Cape of <HI>Good-hope:</HI> And the other four were to &s;earch a pa&s;&s;age towards the Kingdoms of <HI>Cathay</HI> and <HI>China</HI> by the North-ea&s;t, whereby the pa&s;&s;age al&s;o into tho&s;e parts might be expected much &s;horter than that which was known to the <HI>Spaniards.</HI></P>
<P>To this intent the&s;e four la&s;t ve&s;&s;els &s;ailed out of the <HI>Texel, June</HI> 5. 1594. and returned in <HI>September,</HI> not be|ing able to proceed by rea&s;on of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by <HI>William Baren&s;on,</HI> there were two other Expeditions afterwards to <HI>Nova Zembla;</HI> in the la&s;t of which they wintered there, and <HI>Baren&s;on</HI> lo&s;t his life. <HI>Heemskerk</HI> was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into <HI>India.</HI> Upon who&s;e happy returns the <HI>Holland Ea&s;t-India</HI> Company was fir&s;t e&s;tabli&s;hed, and a prohibition made for any other of that Country to trade thither for the &s;pace of One and twenty years.</P>
<P>But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this Ci|ty. The <HI>Tuchthuis</HI> or <HI>Ra&s;pelhuis,</HI> or Hou&s;e of Correction for debauched young men, &s;uch as are incorrigible and di&s;|obedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme, with this In&s;cription, <HI>Virtutis e&s;t domare quae cuncti pavent.</HI> This was formerly a Mona&s;tery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. <HI>Clare,</HI> and converted to this u&s;e 1595. They who are put in, are forced to work and gain their Bread
<PB N="12" REF="9"> with hard labour. I &s;aw tho&s;e who ra&s;ped <HI>Brazil,</HI> having a certain task &s;et them every day, work &s;o hard, that be|ing naked and in a &s;weat, and the du&s;t of the <HI>Brazil</HI> wood flying upon them, they were all over painted of a beau|tiful red colour. Which odd &s;ight made me call to mind the Phan&s;ie of my Lady Marchione&s;s of <HI>Newca&s;tle,</HI> of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour, and the King of Purple.</P>
<P>They told us that &s;ome that were committed to their charge, and not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Ci&s;tern, and let the water in upon them; placing only a Pump by them for their relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free them&s;elves from drowning. One we &s;aw put into a narrow Dungeon, and kept from meat. Some are put into this Hou&s;e for a longer time, &s;ome for a &s;horter. It hath been a puni&s;hment for &s;uch as have drawn their Daggers, or offered to &s;tab any one. And &s;ome Citizens, though able and rich enough, contrive it &s;o, that when their Sons are extravagant and ma&s;terle&s;s, the Officers &s;eize upon them, and carry them into this Hou&s;e, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in till they &s;ee &s;uf|ficient &s;igns of a mending their life.</P>
<P>This way of Correction may &s;eem &s;evere to many, yet is not comparable to that which is &s;aid to have been for|merly u&s;ed in <HI>Germany.</HI> Particularly at <HI>Colen,</HI> in the <HI>white Tower,</HI> at the North end of the Town, near the <HI>Rhine;</HI> where it is reported, that &s;uch Youths who were not otherwi&s;e to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner &s;hut up in the <HI>white Tower.</HI> The height and thickne&s;s of the walls &s;ecured them from e&s;caping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the la&s;t remedy again&s;t &s;tarving, which while their bold nece&s;&s;ity forced
<PB N="13" REF="9"> them to reach at, they executed their la&s;t &s;entence upon them&s;elves, and mi&s;erably brake their own necks.</P>
<P>Somewhat like the <HI>Ra&s;pelhuis</HI> is the <HI>Spinhuis,</HI> or Hou&s;e of Correction, for the young women who live loo&s;ely, are taken in the night, or can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain time, according as their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, &s;ew, or employ their time perpetually in &s;ome hone&s;t labour.</P>
<P>Tho&s;e of the better &s;ort are permitted to have Cham|bers apart. In one large Room I &s;aw about an hundred of them, and &s;ome very well dre&s;&s;ed and fine, which was an unexpected &s;ight to me, and would &s;ure be more &s;trange to behold in <HI>France</HI> and <HI>England.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Wee&s;huis,</HI> or Ho&s;pital for Children, where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after, and well educated.</P>
<P>The <HI>Dolhuis,</HI> or a Hou&s;e for &s;uch as are Delirious, Ma|niacal, or Melancholical of both Sexes.</P>
<P>The <HI>Ga&s;thuis,</HI> or Ho&s;pital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great Revenue.</P>
<P>The <HI>Mannenhuis,</HI> or Ho&s;pital for old Men, and &s;uch as are no longer able to labour towards their own &s;up|port.</P>
<P>Be&s;ides all which, there are great Sums of mony col|lected for the poor, &s;o that there is not a Begger to be &s;een in the Streets, and upon all a&s;&s;ignations or appoint|ments of meeting at the Tavern, or el&s;ewhere, and upon many other occa&s;ions, who&s;oever faileth to come at the exact time, forfeiteth more or le&s;s to the u&s;e of the Poor.</P>
<P>The <HI>Ea&s;t-India-hou&s;es</HI> are remarkable, and the great Stores of their Commodities, <HI>Cinamon, Green-ginger, Camphire, Pepper, Calecuts, Indico, &amp;c.</HI> The &s;hips are of a great burden: their Hou&s;e was then enlarging, although
<PB N="14" REF="10"> it was great before; and a perfect Town for all Trades within it &s;elf.</P>
<P>The <HI>Admiralteyt,</HI> or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up, is encompa&s;&s;ed with wa|ter; near to it there lay then 72 Men of War. In the Hou&s;e we &s;aw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Char|ges for Powder, Lanthorns for &s;hips, &amp;c. At the en|trance of the Gate hangeth up a <HI>Canoe</HI> with a man in it, dryed up, &s;o as to be pre&s;erved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand: he was enclo&s;ed up to the wa&s;te in the <HI>Canoe,</HI> in &s;uch &s;ort, as the Fi&s;h-skins, which were the cover to it, being &s;o &s;ewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greate&s;t Storms with|out danger. The top of this Hou&s;e, as of divers others al&s;o in this City, is a Re&s;ervatory for Rain-water, which they have the more need of, becau&s;e they have little good water hereabouts.</P>
<P>The faire&s;t Streets in the Town are <HI>Harlem-&s;treet,</HI> the <HI>Cingel, Princes Graft, Kai&s;ers Graft,</HI> and the New Build|ings in the I&s;land towards <HI>Gottenburg.</HI> And if they con|tinue to build with Free&s;tone, they will &s;till &s;urpa&s;s the&s;e, which, I'le a&s;&s;ure you, are in no &s;mall mea&s;ure beauti|ful.</P>
<P>I &s;aw a Globe to be &s;old, made by <HI>Vingbomes,</HI> between &s;ix and &s;even foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thou&s;and Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of bra&s;s, co&s;t a thou&s;and Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted, with all the new Di&s;coveries in it, as that of <HI>Anthony Van Dimons</HI> Land, found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 170 of Longitude, tho&s;e towards the Northwe&s;t of <HI>Japan,</HI> and tho&s;e places both about <HI>N. Z.</HI> and al&s;o in the <HI>Tartarian</HI> Sea beyond the Streights of <HI>Voygats, New-Holland, We&s;t-Frie&s;land, Cape d'Hyver, &amp;c.</HI> but I have &s;ince met with a Book, which
<PB N="15" REF="10"> doth &s;omewhat contradict this; entituled <HI>A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Mon&s;ieur</HI> Martiniere, who went in one of the three &s;hips belonging to the Northern Company of <HI>Copenhagen,</HI> in the year 1653. and by that means had occa&s;ion to conver&s;e with the <HI>Norwegians, I&s;landers, Lap|landers, Kilops, Borandians, Siberians, Zemblians,</HI> and <HI>Samojedes,</HI> who are Neighbours to the <HI>Tartars</HI> and <HI>Tin|gor&s;es,</HI> in his 46 Chapter he expre&s;&s;eth him&s;elf after this manner. There having fallen into my hands &s;everal Geo|graphical Charts of &s;undry eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to &s;ee how they are mi&s;taken in the po&s;ition of <HI>Zembla,</HI> which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is; they divide it likewi&s;e by the Sea from <HI>Greenland,</HI> and place it far di&s;tant from it, when as indeed tho&s;e two Countries are Contiguous, the Coa&s;ts of <HI>Greenland</HI> butting upon the Coa&s;ts of <HI>Zem|bla,</HI> &s;o as did not the great quantity of Snow, and the violence of the cold render tho&s;e Borders uninhabitable, the pa&s;&s;age would be very ea&s;ie by Land from <HI>Greenland</HI> to <HI>Zembla,</HI> and from <HI>Zembla</HI> pa&s;&s;ing the <HI>Pater-no&s;ter</HI> Mountains to enter into <HI>Samojedia,</HI> from thence into <HI>Tar|tary</HI> or <HI>Mu&s;covy,</HI> as one plea&s;ed: But of the truth of this we &s;hall be further informed at the return of Captain <HI>Wood.</HI></P>
<P>I was amazed likewi&s;e to &s;ee they had de&s;cribed the Streight called <HI>Voygat,</HI> not above ten French Leagues in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues, which is &s;ix times as much. Again, they would per&s;wade us that through that Streight our &s;hips might pa&s;s into the great <HI>Tartarian</HI> Ocean, which is a mi&s;take. And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince <HI>Maurice</HI> of <HI>Na&s;&s;au,</HI> a Dutch Ve&s;&s;el pa&s;&s;ed that way into that Ocean, yet it is a manife&s;t errour, that Streight being bounded, as I &s;aid before, by the <HI>Pater-no&s;ter</HI>
<PB N="16" REF="11"> Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never di&s;|&s;olves. And of this I can give a po&s;itive te&s;timony, ha|ving been my &s;elf in that Streight under tho&s;e Mountains in the Dog-days, which is the hotte&s;t time of the year.</P>
<P>From the Steeple of the Old Church of <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> I had a good pro&s;pect of the Town, and the great number of &s;hips lying upon one &s;ide of it, like a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs of the Hou&s;es being &s;harp, it is a mo&s;t uneven Town to be looked upon downward, as it is a hand&s;ome one to be looked on up|ward; and is not &s;o diverti&s;ing or plea&s;ing to the &s;ight, as &s;ome Towns in <HI>France</HI> and <HI>Italy,</HI> which have flatter Roofs, or el&s;e are covered with a fine black Slat or Ar|doi&s;e. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is &s;ounded at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at &s;ix a Clock night and morning. At eleven a clock, the time of going on to the <HI>Exchange,</HI> there is good Mu&s;ick at the <HI>Stadthuis,</HI> given by the Earl of <HI>Lei|ce&s;ter.</HI> They make good Harmony al&s;o every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in mo&s;t Steeples. And there is a Mu&s;ick-hou&s;e or Entertaining-hou&s;e, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears mo&s;t &s;orts of Mu|&s;ick, &s;eeth many good Water-works, and divers motions by Clock-work, Pictures, and other Diverti&s;ements.</P>
<P>During my &s;tay at <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> I had the opportunity of &s;eeing divers Learned Men, and Per&s;ons of Note. Dr. <HI>Rui&s;h</HI> &s;hewed us many Curio&s;ities in Anatomy, as the <HI>Skeletons</HI> of young Children, and <HI>Faetus's</HI> of all A|ges, neatly &s;et together, and very white; the <HI>Lympha|tick ve&s;&s;els</HI> &s;o pre&s;erved, as to &s;ee the <HI>valves</HI> in them. A Liver excarnated, &s;howing the Minute ve&s;&s;els, all &s;hining and clear. The Mu&s;cles of Children di&s;&s;ected and kept
<PB N="17" REF="11"> from corruption: entire Bodies pre&s;erved; the face of one was very remarkable, without the lea&s;t &s;pot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expected immediately after death: he had then kept it two years, and hoped it would &s;o continue. Dr. <HI>Swammerdam</HI> &s;hewed us divers of his Experiments which he hath &s;et down in his Treati&s;e <HI>De Re&s;piratione;</HI> and a very fair Collection of In&s;ects brought from &s;everal Countries; a <HI>Stagg-fly</HI> of a very great bigne&s;s; an <HI>Indi|an Scolopendria,</HI> or <HI>Forty-foot;</HI> a fly called <HI>Ephemeron,</HI> and many other Curio&s;ities. Old <HI>Glawber</HI> the Chymi&s;t &s;hew|ed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility from <HI>Bla&s;ius</HI> the Phy&s;ick Profe&s;&s;our who hath wrote a Comment upon <HI>Ve&s;lingius.</HI></P>
<P>The Jews live more hand&s;omly and &s;plendidly here, than in any other place: Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Bra&s;s and Silver. We happen|ed to be there at the Fea&s;t of their <HI>New-year;</HI> &s;o that their blowing of Horns, &s;howting and &s;inging was not omitted: Some of them under&s;tand divers Languages. I &s;aw one <HI>Mo&s;es di Pas,</HI> a Learned young Man, and <HI>Orobio</HI> a Phy&s;ician of Note. And I was &s;orry to &s;ee divers here to profe&s;s them&s;elves publickly Jews, who had lived at lea&s;t reputed Chri&s;tians, for a long time in other places: One who had been a <HI>Franci&s;can</HI> Frier thirty years: and another who had been Profe&s;&s;our &s;ome years at <HI>Tholouze,</HI> and before that Phy&s;ician to the King of <HI>Spain. Juda Leo</HI> a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of <HI>Solomon,</HI> of <HI>Solomon</HI>'s Hou&s;e, the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the I&s;raelites encamping, and other Curio&s;ities. I was pre&s;ent at the Circumci&s;i|on of a Child; which is performed by thru&s;ting a Probe in between the <HI>Glans</HI> and <HI>Praeputium,</HI> and &s;eparating it, or dilating the <HI>Praeputium,</HI> &s;o as the inward Skin may be
<PB N="18" REF="12"> drawn forward as well as the outward; then by apply|ing an In&s;trument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a Sector, the Skin is held fa&s;t beyond the <HI>Glans,</HI> and with a broad Inci&s;ion-knife, or Circumci&s;ion-knife, the Foreskin is cut off clo&s;e to the In&s;trument; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood &s;top|ped with Powders, and a Plai&s;ter applyed; the Relations and Acquaintance &s;inging all the while, whereby the cries of the Infant are le&s;s heard.</P>
<P>Leaving <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> I pa&s;&s;ed by a peculiar Burial|place of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Walls, by <HI>Overskerk, Bamburg,</HI> and in &s;ix or &s;even hours arrived at <HI>Utretcht,</HI> in a Boat drawn with Hor&s;es through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the way of Travelling in <HI>Holland, Utretcht,</HI> and divers other Provinces of the <HI>Low-Countries.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Utretcht</HI> is an ancient, large, hand&s;ome City, and chief of the Province of the &s;ame name, called formerly <HI>Anto|nina,</HI> and afterwards <HI>Ultrajectum.</HI> Long famous for its Epi&s;copal See founded by <HI>Dagobert</HI> King of <HI>France,</HI> who endowed it richly with Lands and Po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ions: <HI>Willebald,</HI> or <HI>Willebrode</HI> an Engli&s;hman, was their fir&s;t Bi&s;hop, who converted the&s;e Countries unto Chri&s;tianity; and the following Bi&s;hops grew &s;o powerful, that they were able to bring many thou&s;and men into the field, and to wage great Wars again&s;t the Counts of <HI>Holland:</HI> Their Suc|ce&s;&s;ion al&s;o continued for above Nine hundred years. It is now an Univer&s;ity, founded by the States in the Year 1636. I &s;hall not trouble you with the Names of the Pro|fe&s;&s;ors; the Learned Mr. <HI>Ray,</HI> whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad, having already cau&s;ed to be printed the <HI>Series Lectionum</HI> of this and many other Univer&s;ities in the <HI>Low-Countries, Germany,</HI> and <HI>Italy,</HI> in his <HI>Ob&s;ervations Topographical, Moral. Phy&s;iological,</HI>
<PB N="19" REF="12"> &s;et forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower, or three Steeples one above another: From the highe&s;t of which I had not only a good &s;ight of the Town it &s;elf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many others al&s;o; <HI>Utretcht</HI> being in a plain flat Country, and &s;o well &s;eated, and encompa&s;&s;ed with &s;o populous a Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in the middle of it, who&s;e Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls-hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this In|&s;cription;</P>
<Q><L><HI>Accipe Po&s;teritas quod per tua &s;aecula narres,</HI></L>
<L><HI>Taurinis cutibus fundo &s;olidata columna e&s;t.</HI></L></Q>
<P>There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which containeth divers old Books and Manu&s;cripts. A large Bible in &s;ix Volumes, painted and gilded after a very ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long &s;ince in <HI>Germany,</HI> and given to this place by the Emper|our <HI>Henry</HI> the Fourth, are worth the &s;eeing, not &s;o much for their neatne&s;s, as their Antiquity and odd &s;hape: As al&s;o a Horn made out of a Tooth, &s;aid to be given at the &s;ame time. There are al&s;o three <HI>Unicorns</HI> Horns, little differing in length; the longe&s;t being five foot and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp'd with Silver, and made hollow to &s;erve for a Cup. The&s;e were of the <HI>Sea-Unicorn,</HI> or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of &s;ome Sea-Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Seas; of which I have &s;een many, both in Publick Repo|&s;itories, and in Private Hands. Two &s;uch as the&s;e, the one Ten foot long, were pre&s;ented not many years &s;ince
<PB N="20" REF="13"> to the King of <HI>Denmark,</HI> being taken near to <HI>Nova Zem|bla;</HI> and I have &s;een &s;ome full fifteen foot long; &s;ome wreathed very thick, &s;ome not &s;o much, and others al|mo&s;t plain: Some large&s;t and thicke&s;t at the End near the head; others are large&s;t at &s;ome di&s;tance from the Head: Some very &s;harp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured Father Sir <HI>T. B.</HI> hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of <HI>Curlands</HI> Rarities, but after that he was taken Pri&s;oner by <HI>Doug|las</HI> in the wars between <HI>Sweden</HI> and <HI>Poland,</HI> it came into a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it, he hath al&s;o a piece of this &s;ort of <HI>Unicorns</HI> Horn burnt black, out of the Emperour of <HI>Ru&s;&s;ia</HI>'s <HI>Repo&s;itorie,</HI> given him by Dr. <HI>Arthur Dee,</HI> who was Son to Dr. <HI>John Dee,</HI> and al&s;o Phy&s;ician to the Emperour of <HI>Ru&s;&s;ia,</HI> when his Chambers were burned, in which he pre&s;erved his Curio&s;ities. I have &s;een a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curio&s;ities made out of this Horn, but was never &s;o fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy again&s;t Poy&s;ons, contagious Di&s;ea&s;es, or any other evident effect of it, although I have known it given &s;everal times, and in great quanti|ty. But of the&s;e <HI>Unicorns</HI> Horns no man &s;ure hath &s;o great a Collection as the King of <HI>Denmark;</HI> and his Fa|ther had &s;o many, that he was able to &s;pare about an hun|dred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of <HI>U|nicorns</HI> Horns.</P>
<P>I had the honour to &s;ee divers Per&s;ons of Note in this City; as <HI>D. Cyprianus ab Oo&s;tergo,</HI> Dr. <HI>Regius, Voetius,</HI> the only Member then left alive of the Synod of <HI>Dort,</HI> and others; but mi&s;&s;ed the &s;ight of the Learned <HI>Anna Maria Skurman,</HI> who was then gone out of Town, and was for|ced to content my &s;elf with beholding her Picture, well drawn by her own hand, with this In&s;cription of hers un|der it:</P>
<PB N="21" REF="13">
<Q><L><HI>Ceruitis hic pict &acirc; no&s;tros in Imagine vultus,</HI></L>
<L><HI>Si negat ars formam gratia ve&s;tra dabit.</HI></L></Q>
<P>The Painters Hall is con&s;iderable, wherein are many good pieces to be &s;een of &s;everal Ma&s;ters: Among&s;t which there are good Heads by <HI>Van Colen</HI> and <HI>Tuart;</HI> Land|skips by <HI>Soft-lever;</HI> and good Drapery, e&s;pecially in &s;ome Turki&s;h Habits, by <HI>Van der Mere.</HI></P>
<P>This Town is al&s;o beautified with a fair Piazza or Market-place, divers long Streets, and a <HI>Pall-mall</HI> with five rows of Trees on each &s;ide. In the Church of St. <HI>Katherino</HI> is the Tomb of my Lord <HI>Gorge.</HI> Though I had &s;een <HI>France</HI> and <HI>Italy,</HI> and the Noble Cities thereof, which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much &s;ur|prized upon the fir&s;t &s;ight of the <HI>United Provinces,</HI> e&s;pe|cially of <HI>Holland,</HI> and the adjoyning places. He that hath ob&s;erved the ea&s;ie accommodation for Travel there|in, both by Land and Water, their excellent order and regular cour&s;e in all things; the number of Learned men; the abundance of Varieties in all kinds; the indu&s;try, frugality, and wealth of the people; their numerous good Towns; their extraordinary neatne&s;s in their Build|ings and Hou&s;es; their proper Laws and admini&s;tration of Ju&s;tice; and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats, will think it an omi&s;&s;ion to re&s;t in the &s;ight of other Countries without a view of this. A Country of little extent, and &s;oon travelled over, but &s;o repleni&s;hed with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages, as not to be met with upon &s;o little a compa&s;s of ground, except perhaps in <HI>China.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Utrecht,</HI> in two hours, I came to <HI>Fri&s;wick,</HI> and pa&s;&s;ed over the River <HI>Leck</HI> to <HI>Viaenen,</HI> where there is lit|tle remarkable be&s;ides the Hou&s;e and Gardens of Count
<PB N="22" REF="14"> <HI>Brederode,</HI> one of the Ancient Nobility of <HI>Holland,</HI> or, according to common e&s;teem, of the mo&s;t Noble Family of all; the Family of the <HI>Egmonds</HI> being formerly e&s;teem|ed the Riche&s;t; the <HI>Wa&s;&s;enaer</HI>'s the mo&s;t ancient, and the <HI>Brederodes</HI> the Noble&s;t. The Mount in this Garden &s;er|veth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round <HI>Bull|wark</HI> are divers &s;mall bra&s;s Guns planted. The Statua's of the twelve <HI>Cae&s;ars,</HI> of <HI>Ari&s;totle,</HI> the Pyramids and Par|titions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the re&s;t of its Ornaments.</P>
<P>From hence I pa&s;&s;ed &s;till by Boat through the Land of <HI>Arkel,</HI> &s;ome &s;ay, derived from <HI>Hercules;</HI> belonging for|merly to the Lords of <HI>Gorchom</HI> and <HI>Arkeland,</HI> till by <HI>Ma|ry,</HI> daughter to the la&s;t Lord of <HI>Arkeland,</HI> it &s;ell to <HI>John</HI> Lord of <HI>Egmond,</HI> and afterwards was &s;old to <HI>William</HI> the &s;ixth Earl of <HI>Holland</HI> I arrived this night at <HI>Gorchom,</HI> a Town well &s;eated, near three Rivers, the <HI>Ling,</HI> the <HI>Wael,</HI> and the <HI>Maes.</HI> The Market-place is fair; the <HI>Stadt|huis</HI> is &s;unk &s;omewhat on one &s;ide. The Governour hath a good Hou&s;e, and the Church a very high thick Steeple: the Works are of Earth; the Water-gate is hand&s;ome, and over it in Great Letters is this In&s;cription;</P>
<Q>Civitas in qu&acirc; maxim&egrave; Cives legibus parent, &amp; in pace beata, &amp; bello invicta. 1642.</Q>
<P>The more remarkable becau&s;e it made good its In&s;crip|tion in the year 1672. when <HI>Louis</HI> the Fourteenth, King of <HI>France,</HI> came down with &s;o powerful an Army into the <HI>Low-Countries,</HI> that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conque&s;ts this way, beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing.</P>
<PB N="23" REF="14">
<P>Leaving <HI>Gorcum,</HI> I pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Worcum,</HI> on the other &s;ide of the River, and then by the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Love&s;teyn,</HI> &s;trongly &s;eated and well fortified; and therefore hath been often made u&s;e of to &s;ecure Per&s;ons of Note. Sir <HI>George A&s;cue</HI> of late years &s;uffered his Impri&s;onment here|in, and formerly <HI>Barnevelt;</HI> upon which occa&s;ion this Ca&s;tle hath been much &s;poken of, and hath given the name to that whole party who &s;ided with him, well known at pre|&s;ent by the name of the <HI>Love&s;tein</HI> Faction. Pa&s;&s;ing on fur|ther up the <HI>Maes,</HI> I left <HI>Proye</HI> on the left hand, and <HI>Hue&s;den</HI> on the right, and the next day morning arrived at the <HI>Bo&s;ch.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Hertogen Bo&s;ch, Sylva Ducis, Bo&s;cum Ducis, Boi&s;le|duc, Bolduc,</HI> takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of <HI>Brabant:</HI> It is a &s;trong plea&s;ant City, &s;eated upon the River <HI>Di&s;a</HI> or <HI>Dee&s;e,</HI> which entreth the <HI>Maes,</HI> about two Leagues below it; one of the greate&s;t Cities in <HI>Brabant;</HI> and for its &s;trength, for which 'tis be|holden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the <HI>Uni|ted Provinces</HI> po&s;&s;e&s;s not any one more con&s;iderable, and is a very good Frontier again&s;t all Enemies on this &s;ide: It is encompa&s;&s;ed on all &s;ides with Fenns and Mar&s;hy Grounds. The <HI>Avenues</HI> to it are by narrow Cau&s;ies, made turning and winding, to be commanded in all pla|ces by one or other of the &s;ix Sconces or Forts built at &s;ome di&s;tance without the Town for its greater Security. Be&s;ides which, the Hollanders having &s;ome rea&s;on to be jealous of the Inhabitants, who&s;e affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes, of who&s;e Reli|gion mo&s;t of them are, they have built a Citadel within the Town, a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more ac|curately into their Affairs. It is a hand&s;om regular Fort of five Ba&s;tions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long; the Faces of each Ba&s;tion 63; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a hand&s;ome Hou&s;e of Stone for the Centry
<PB N="24" REF="15"> at the point of each Ba&s;tion, and the middle of each Cur|tain, every one of which co&s;t Seven hundred Guldens. Here is al&s;o a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, &s;aid to be able to fling a Bullet almo&s;t as far as <HI>Bommel.</HI> The Piazza in this Town is Triangular.</P>
<P>This City was made an Epi&s;copal See, 1559. The Ca|thedral is Dedicated to St. <HI>John.</HI> In the Quire are paint|ed the Arms of many of the Knights of the <HI>Golden Fleece.</HI> And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an In&s;cription in <HI>French,</HI> which contains the Hi&s;tory of the fir&s;t In&s;tituti|on, and Model of this Order, by the mo&s;t High and mighty Prince <HI>Philip</HI> the Good, Duke of <HI>Burgundy, Lo|rain,</HI> and <HI>Brabant:</HI> Be&s;ides divers Statua's and Pillars. There are al&s;o &s;everal Monuments of the Bi&s;hops of <HI>Bo&s;che</HI> and others.</P>
<P>This Town was taken from the King of <HI>Spain</HI> by the Forces of the Confederate E&s;tates, in the year 1628. af|ter a long and chargeable Siege; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excel|lent Service.</P>
<P>Divers of the Nuns were &s;till alive in this Town, but at <HI>Utretcht</HI> they were all dead.</P>
<P>From the <HI>Bo&s;che</HI> we travelled through a plain Country, &s;omewhat Sandy, to <HI>Breda</HI> upon the River <HI>Merck:</HI> A place very con&s;iderable, plea&s;antly &s;eated, and well|fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at pre&s;ent: For they have taken away the Crown-works, and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works, and Con|&s;erves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counter&s;carp, and a &s;mall Ravelin between each Ba&s;tion, joyned to the Ram|part within &s;ide of the Ditch. There is al&s;o a double Haye or Quick&s;et-hedge almo&s;t quite round the Town, be|&s;ides Pali&s;ados. The <HI>Parapet</HI> is very thick, and &s;trengthned
<PB N="25" REF="15"> with a row of Elms, and &s;econded with another row at three or four yards di&s;tance, round the Town; the bo|dies of the <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> are &s;unk down or h<GAP DESC="illegible" RESP="KEYERS" EXTENT="1 letter">llowed away, and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town, and after all, a bre&s;t-work between the Town and the <HI>Ba&s;tions;</HI> and Cavaliers upon &s;everal places of the Rampart.</P>
<P>This Town belongeth unto the Prince of <HI>Orange,</HI> un|to whom it hath de&s;cended by the right of the hou&s;e of <HI>Na&s;&s;aw,</HI> by the Marriage of <HI>Engelbert</HI> the &s;eventh Earle of that hou&s;e, with <HI>Mary</HI> daughter and Heir of <HI>Philip</HI> the la&s;t Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by the <HI>Spaniards</HI> in the beginning of the Low Country Wars, and was afterwards Surpri&s;ed by the <HI>Dutch,</HI> by a &s;tratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf, and &s;o let into the Ca&s;tle. In the year 1625. the <HI>Spaniards</HI> took it again, as by In|&s;criptions and <HI>Chronograms</HI> are to be &s;een in divers places, as that over the door of the Church.</P>
<Q>a Mbro&s;I &s;pIno Lae VIg ILantIa bre Da e XpUgnata.</Q>
<P>As al&s;o this,</P>
<Q>PhILIppUs hI&s;panlae reX gUbernante I&s;abe LLa CLar&acirc; EUgenIa Infanta, ob&s;IDente &s;pInoLa qUaternIs regI|bus frU&s;tra ConIUrantIbus breDa VIGtor potItur.</Q>
<P>Afterwards it was be&s;ieged and taken by <HI>Frederick Hen|drick</HI> Prince of <HI>Orange,</HI> as an In&s;cription at the We&s;tend of the Church &s;ets it down.</P>
<Q>Auxilio &s;olius Dei, Au&s;piciis confederati Belgij, Ferdinan|do Au&s;triaco Hi&s;paniae Infanta cum ingenti exercitu fru&s;tra</Q>
<PB N="26" REF="16">
<Q><HI>&s;uccurrente, a Iulij 23 ob&s;e&s;&s;amad 19 Augu&s;ti oppugnatam. Fredericus Henricus Princeps araU&s;IUs bre DaMe eX|pUgnat &s;eXta OCtobris.</HI></Q>
<P>The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as <HI>Rene&s;&s;e's</HI> Tombe; a Monument for Sir <HI>Thomas Ale&s;bury</HI> &s;et up by the Lord Chancellor <HI>Hide;</HI> an old Tombe e|rected 1349. for <HI>John</HI> Lord of <HI>Lech</HI> and <HI>Breda;</HI> the Tombe of Grave <HI>Engleberg Van Na&s;&s;aw</HI> and his family on the &s;ide of the Wall; the <HI>Here Van Horne</HI> and his three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave <HI>Hendrick Van Na&s;&s;aw,</HI> who&s;e Armour is &s;upport|ed by four Warriers upon their Knees; he built the Ca|&s;tle of <HI>Breda,</HI> which is at pre&s;ent both &s;trong and beau|tiful: I ob&s;erved the place where the Turfe-Boat came in, and where the Prince came over into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, the Walks, and Dials are worth the &s;eeing, the Town in hand&s;omely built, populous, and generally hath a great Garri&s;on in it.</P>
<P>Leaving <HI>Breda</HI> we &s;oon came by Land to St. <HI>Gertruyden|berg</HI> the la&s;t Town on the North of <HI>Brabant,</HI> where it joyneth to the Province of <HI>Holland,</HI> a &s;mall place, but a good Town for fi&s;hing, lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called <HI>de Waert,</HI> made by the falling of the <HI>Maes</HI> and many other Rivers into it. This Town is fortified and Garri&s;oned. The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair, and the ruines of the latter are ob&s;ervable, in regard that this Steeple was &s;hot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of <HI>Orange,</HI> while the Governour and chief of the Town were upon it, to ob&s;erve a fal&s;e a|larm in the Prince's Camp, and &s;o lo&s;t them&s;elves and the Town. We Pa&s;&s;ed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one &s;ide of it, no le&s;s than &s;eventy two Pari&s;hes being
<PB N="27" REF="16"> drowned at once, the Village of <HI>Ram&s;dun</HI> onely e&s;caping, and &s;o by an old Tower called the hou&s;e of <HI>Murney,</HI> to the <HI>Maiden</HI> Town of <HI>Dort,</HI> or <HI>Dordrecht.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Dordracum,</HI> &s;o called by &s;ome from <HI>Duri</HI> or <HI>Dureti forum,</HI> at pre&s;ent <HI>Dort,</HI> being &s;eated in the Waves of tho&s;e great Lakes made by the <HI>Maes</HI> and <HI>Waal,</HI> is not unaptly from its &s;ituation compared to a Swans ne&s;t, it is reckoned the fir&s;t and chief Town of South <HI>Holland,</HI> in re&s;pect of its antiquity, as having &s;erved to &s;ecure <HI>Odo|cer</HI> in his retreat almo&s;t eight hundred years &s;ince, and al&s;o in re&s;pect of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rheni&s;h wine and Engli&s;h Cloath.</P>
<P>In this Town are many fair hou&s;es and plea&s;ant Gar|dens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 &s;teps high; the top thereof being made of four large Dy|alls. There is al&s;o an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet. The <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> have two Churches, and the <HI>French</HI> one. The Key or Head to the water &s;ide is hand&s;ome, and the Country about very plea&s;ant; we &s;aw the Chamber wherein the <HI>Synod</HI> of <HI>Dort</HI> was a&s;&s;embled 1611. a large fair room; and took a collation in the &s;ame hou&s;e, in a high turret overlooking the Town and Coun|try: Our &s;eats Moving round about the Table continu|ally; &s;o as the diver&s;ity of the pro&s;pect made it more delightful. The great Ve&s;&s;els round-bellied, which trade between <HI>Coln</HI> and this City &s;eemed &s;trange; as al&s;o the long <HI>Luyck</HI> or <HI>Liege</HI>-boats; and the number of Peo|ple that continually live in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a Ve&s;&s;el bound for the I&s;land of <HI>Walcheren,</HI> &s;ayling by mo&s;t of the I&s;lands of <HI>Zealand</HI> and in &s;ight of divers good Towns. as <HI>Willem&s;tadt, Zirick|ze, Tergoes;</HI> ob&s;erving in &s;ome places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land; and in others where the Indu&s;try of
<PB N="28" REF="17"> the Inhabitants &s;till keep it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shoars of the Sea. We Land|ed at <HI>Ter-Vere,</HI> where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, to|wards the Sea are round towers. The <HI>Piazza</HI> is long. The <HI>Scotch</HI> have had a Factory here for above two hun|dred years, and the <HI>Marqui&s;s</HI> of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which <HI>Zealand</HI> was Go|verned. The Abbot of St <HI>Nicholas</HI> in <HI>Middleburg</HI> re|pre&s;enting the Eccle&s;ia&s;tical juri&s;diction, and the Towns of <HI>Middleburg, Zirickzee, Ter-Veer, Flu&s;&s;ing, Tolen, Martins-dike, Romer&s;wal</HI> and <HI>Tergoes,</HI> &s;upplying the Third: over again&s;t this place where a Town had former|ly &s;unk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be &s;een. From hence to <HI>Middleburg</HI> the way is Paved with Brick; as it is al&s;o from Town to Town in mo&s;t places of <HI>Holland.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Middleburg</HI> is the chief Town in the I&s;land <HI>Walachria,</HI> &s;eated almo&s;t in the middle of it, being well built, large, rich, and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the <HI>Ea&s;t-India</HI> trade: hath a large, broad Water within the Town, and a &s;treight cut through the Land to carry Ve&s;&s;els out to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the Officers here are cho&s;en by Strangers or Foreigners, the Churches are many and remarkable, the new Church is of an eight|&s;quare figure with a <HI>Cupola,</HI> the Tower of the old great Church very high, the <HI>Stadthui&s;e</HI> with the old &s;tatuas, a|bout it, the round <HI>Piazza,</HI> and many private buildings are Con&s;iderable, and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with <HI>Madder, Pompions,</HI> or Grain and Fruits. The <HI>Zealanders</HI> are generally addicted to the intere&s;t of the Prince of <HI>Orange,</HI> and great Lovers of his Per&s;on. I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been
<PB N="29" REF="17"> with them &s;ome days before, and was made <HI>Premier</HI> Noble, or chief of the States of <HI>Zealand;</HI> which was chiefly brought about, as I was informed, by <HI>Pen&s;ioner Hubert, Le Sage, Duvelaer</HI> and <HI>Vriebergen,</HI> formerly no great friends to the Prince, e&s;pecially <HI>Vriebergen,</HI> who was the mo&s;t earne&s;t of any to bring him in, in de&s;pite to the <HI>Hollanders,</HI> for General <HI>Worts</HI> his &s;ake, who be|ing &s;et over the <HI>Zealand</HI> forces by tho&s;e of <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> lately affronted <HI>Vriebergens</HI> Son who was a Colonel, at the head of his Regiment. I was entertained at <HI>Middle|burg</HI> very courteou&s;ly by Mr. <HI>Hill</HI> the Mini&s;ter, who al&s;o &s;ent his Kin&s;man with me to <HI>Flu&s;&s;ing. Fli&s;&s;inga</HI> or <HI>Vlu&s;|&s;ing,</HI> hath Stone-Wals towards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Land; a very good Port, and a &s;trong Town; the waves of the Sea wa&s;hing its walls; it was one of the fir&s;t Towns which the Low Country men took from the <HI>Spaniards,</HI> in the year 1572, and was made Cautionary to Queen <HI>Elizabeth</HI> together with <HI>Rammakins</HI> and the <HI>Briel.</HI> 1585. The renowned Sr. <HI>Philip Sidney</HI> be|ing the fir&s;t Governour of it, and &s;urrendred by King <HI>James</HI> to the United &s;tates. 1616. The Sea &s;hoar here a|bouts is not only faced with ru&s;hes, flaggs and reeds &s;taked down as high as the Tide u&s;ually ari&s;eth, but it is al&s;o &s;trongly bound over with O&s;iers and hurdles and great Po&s;ts driven in to break the force of the Water, and &s;ecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-hou&s;e is hand&s;omely built, &s;tanding in the <HI>Piazza,</HI> having three rowes of Pillars in the Front one above another; the Lower <HI>Dorick,</HI> the &s;econd <HI>Io|nick,</HI> and the highe&s;t <HI>Corinthian;</HI> and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Di&s;cover &s;hips at Sea. This is the third Port for the Ea&s;t-<HI>India</HI> trade; <HI>Am&s;terdam</HI> and <HI>Rotterdam</HI> being the fir&s;t and &s;econd: here lay many great &s;hips in the middle of the Town, and con&s;iderable
<PB N="30" REF="18"> men of War, as the St. <HI>Patrick,</HI> and the Admiral of <HI>Zealand:</HI> we &s;aw them al&s;o building of divers &s;hips, and when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to diver|ti&s;e him, to which he gave the name of William <HI>Frederick,</HI> they al&s;o pre&s;ented him with a Golden Bottle; that be|ing the Arms of the Town: the Prince Landed at <HI>Ar|muyden</HI> and went from thence to <HI>Tergoes,</HI> and thence to <HI>Breda;</HI> they reported his entertainment in <HI>Walcheren</HI> a|mounted to fifty thou&s;and <HI>Guldens.</HI> The Women in this I&s;land wear mo&s;t of them red Cloth and &s;traw-Hats, if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door, if a Boy, a little one, if a Woman, the &s;traw lies on the left &s;ide of the Door: when any Woman is brought to bed; they fa&s;ten a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in &s;uch manner, as to di&s;tingui&s;h of what &s;ex the young Child is.</P>
<P>Returning to <HI>Middleburg</HI> by Land I ob&s;erved there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a brea&s;t|worke or a hedge, and embarked at <HI>Middleburg</HI> again, and pa&s;&s;ed down the River by the fort <HI>Rammakins,</HI> and &s;o for the <HI>Schelde,</HI> Sayling up that noble River till we had pa&s;&s;ed the Fort <HI>Frederick Henrick</HI> and came to <HI>Lillo;</HI> where we &s;tayd till the Ve&s;&s;ell was &s;earched. Over a|gain&s;t <HI>Lillo,</HI> lyeth another Fortification, called <HI>Lifgens hock;</HI> the Fort <HI>de la croix</HI> is the la&s;t that belongeth to the <HI>Hollanders,</HI> and lieth on the North &s;ide of the River; the Banks are cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater &s;ecurity. The <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the <HI>Philip,</HI> the <HI>Pearl,</HI> and the <HI>Maria.</HI></P>
<P>The River <HI>Scaldis</HI> or <HI>Scheld</HI> mentioned by <HI>Cae&s;ar</HI> is a gallant River, affording plenty of fi&s;h, and convenience
<PB N="31" REF="18"> for Navigation and pa&s;&s;age unto &s;everal noted places: It ari&s;eth in the Country of <HI>Vermandois,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing to <HI>Cambray, Valencienne,</HI> &s;o to <HI>Tournay</HI> or <HI>Dornick, Oudenard, Gaunt, Rupelmond</HI> and <HI>Antwerp,</HI> and pur&s;uing its cour&s;e is afterwards divided into two &s;treams, whereof the Southern is called the <HI>Hont;</HI> the other runs by <HI>Bergen ap Zome,</HI> and &s;o into the Sea between the I&s;les of <HI>Zea|land.</HI></P>
<P>The next day morning we went on our Voyage &s;till up the <HI>Scaldis</HI> or <HI>Schelde,</HI> and arrived at <HI>Antwerp.</HI> Where I had the good fortune to &s;ee Mr. <HI>Hartop;</HI> one very well known in all tho&s;e parts and of high e&s;teem for his per&s;o|nal &s;trength and valour. A Gentleman al&s;o &s;o courteous that he makes it his bu&s;ine&s;s to oblige &s;trangers; he &s;hew'd me many curio&s;ities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.</P>
<P>The Walls of <HI>Antwerp</HI> are very large, faced with Brick and free&s;tone, having divrs rows of Trees upon them, broad walks, and conveniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> are not &s;o large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it, all Gardens. The <HI>Cittadel</HI> is a regu|lar fortification of five <HI>Ba&s;tions,</HI> wherein lies alwayes a Garri&s;on of <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Soldiers: upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below, a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers; the ears of the <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> are cut down, and <HI>Ca&s;amates</HI> made, and Pali&s;ados &s;et round upon the <HI>E&s;planade;</HI> the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and &s;tone, nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five <HI>Ba|&s;tions</HI> that is fini&s;hed: it commands the City, the Ri|ver and the Country: be&s;ides this <HI>Cittadel</HI> there is ano|ther Fort within the Town near the <HI>Scheld,</HI> to command
<PB N="32" REF="19"> the River, having eight Guns in it, called St. <HI>Laurence</HI> Fort.</P>
<P>The Exchange is hand&s;ome, &s;upported by 36 Pillars e|very one of a different carving, four &s;treets lead unto it, &s;o that &s;tanding in the middle we &s;ee through every one of them. The <HI>Meer</HI> or Large&s;t &s;treet is con&s;iderable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the &s;treets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end of it &s;tands a large Bra&s;s Crucifix upon a Pede&s;tall of Marble. The <HI>Je&s;uites</HI> Church goeth far beyond any of that bigne&s;s that I have &s;een out of <HI>Italy.</HI> The Front is noble, with the Statua of <HI>Ignatius Loyola</HI> on the top, A great part of the in&s;ide of the Roof was painted by <HI>Rubens,</HI> and &s;ome of it by <HI>Van Dyke:</HI> there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by <HI>Segers</HI> a <HI>Ie&s;uite;</HI> the Carving and gilding of all the works is exqui&s;ite: The Library of the Colledge is great, &amp; the Books di&s;po&s;ed hand&s;ome|ly into four Chambers; the Founder hereof was <HI>God|fridus Houtappel,</HI> who&s;e Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth the &s;eeing, in a Chappel on the South &s;ide of this Church. In the Church of the <HI>Carmelites</HI> is a large Silver Statua of our Lady, and models of Cityes in &s;tone. <HI>On&s;ar Lieven Vrowen Kerck,</HI> or <HI>the Church of our ble&s;&s;ed Lady</HI> is the greate&s;t in the City; and the Steeple one of the faire&s;t in the World, five hundred foot high: one of their feet is eleven of our inches; &s;o as it is 459 of our feet. In this Church there is much Carving, and a great number of Pictures highly e&s;teemed, among which one piece is much taken notice of, drawn by <HI>Quintin,</HI> at fir&s;t a Smith, who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the We&s;t door; and afterwards to obtain his Mi&s;tre&s;s, he proved a famous Painter; his head is &s;et up in Stone at the entrance of
<PB N="33" REF="19"> the Church, with an in&s;cription and this ver&s;e.</P>
<Q>Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem.</Q>
<P>I was at the famous Abby of St. <HI>Michael,</HI> plea&s;antly &s;eated upon the <HI>Scheld;</HI> where among other curio&s;ities, I &s;aw a gla&s;s, which repre&s;ented the Pictures of our <HI>Sa|viour</HI> and the Virgin <HI>Mary,</HI> collected from the Putting together of divers other heads: One was repre&s;ented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve; over the ble&s;&s;ed Virgin was this In|&s;cription.</P>
<Q>Diva nitet variis expre&s;&s;a Maria Figuris.</Q>
<P>The Counte&s;s of <HI>Brabants</HI> Tombe, who was drowned, and her <HI>Statua,</HI> as al&s;o the Monument of <HI>Ortelius,</HI> are here &s;hewn. <HI>Macarius Simoneus</HI> was then Abbot, the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. <HI>Wal|burgis</HI> an Engli&s;h Saint, who contributed much towards the conver&s;ion of the&s;e Countries.</P>
<P>The Town-hou&s;e is fair, the Hou&s;e built for the Ea&s;t|country Merchants is very &s;tately and large, but runneth now to ruine, in this I &s;aw among other curio&s;ities, divers &s;trange Mu&s;ical in&s;truments, which at pre&s;ent are not under&s;tood, or at lea&s;t not made u&s;e of: The <HI>He&s;&s;en</HI> hou&s;e hath been al&s;o formerly con&s;iderable. The water which they make u&s;e of in Brewing, is brought by an Aqueduct from <HI>Herentall</HI> about thirty miles di&s;tant from hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Chan|nel, peculiarly walled in by it &s;elf where it pa&s;&s;eth the Ditch; in this City are many good Collections of Pict|ures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Mini|ature or Limning by <HI>Gon&s;ol,</HI> one fine piece, which I
<PB N="34" REF="20"> &s;aw was peculiarly remarkable, it being the work of 35 &s;everal Ma&s;ters.</P>
<P>From <HI>Antwerp,</HI> I pa&s;&s;ed to <HI>Bru&s;&s;els</HI> by water, chang|ing Boats five times, and going through divers locks, by rea&s;on that the Country is &s;o much higher about <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> and the water above two hundred foot lower at <HI>Antwerp.</HI> At <HI>Fontaine</HI> a league and half from <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> three Rivers cro&s;s one another: one of them being carried over a bridg. The <HI>Piazza</HI> of <HI>Bru&s;&s;els</HI> is fair. and oblong in fi|gure upon one of the longe&s;t &s;ides &s;tands the Town|hou&s;e, and over again&s;t it the Kings-hou&s;e, where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet, Count, <HI>Fgmond</HI> and <HI>Horne</HI> were beheaded, the whole <HI>Piazza</HI> being hanged with Black Cloth. Upon the top of the Town-hou&s;e, &s;tand: St. <HI>Michael</HI> the Patron of the City in Bra&s;s, Count <HI>Mar&s;ins</HI> hou&s;e formerly belonging to the Prince of <HI>Orange;</HI> hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good part of the City, but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it, is bigger than two Mens heads, and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The <HI>Ie&s;uites</HI> Church is hand&s;ome, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top. The <HI>Carmelites</HI> Church hath a noble Altar, and near unto the Church is the <HI>Statua</HI> of a pi&s;&s;ing boy, which is a con|tinual Conduit. The Armory was well furni&s;hed, as we were informed, before the Governours of the low Coun|tries &s;old the Arms; and <HI>Ca&s;&s;el Roderigo</HI> the Governour left it very bare. There remains the Armour of <HI>Charls</HI> the fifth, of Duke <HI>Albert,</HI> of the Prince of <HI>Parma, Er|ne&s;tus,</HI> and of the Duke <HI>d'Alva</HI> and of the Duke <HI>Alberts</HI> hor&s;e who being &s;hot &s;aved his Ma&s;ter, and died the &s;ame day twelve month; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Pi&s;tols; The Armour of Cardinal <HI>Infan|te,</HI> and of an <HI>Indian</HI> King; A <HI>Poli&s;h</HI> musket which carri|eth
<PB N="35" REF="20"> &s;ix hundred paces; <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the <HI>Golden Fleece,</HI> and <HI>Henry</HI> the Fourth's Sword &s;ent to declare war; Good Bucklers for Defence, and &s;ome well wrought; e&s;pecially one with the Battel of <HI>Pyrrhus</HI> and his Elephants; and Banners ta|ken with <HI>Francis</HI> King of <HI>France,</HI> at the Battel of <HI>Pa|via.</HI></P>
<P>Somewhat like <HI>Godfrey</HI> of <HI>Bouillons</HI> &s;hooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of <HI>David,</HI> is the &s;hot which <HI>Infanta I&s;abella</HI> made, when with an Arrow &s;he killed a Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Ar|row is &s;et upon the top of a Tower in the Count, which is large; and if the New Buildings and De&s;ign were con|tinued, it would be very hand&s;ome. Before the Court &s;tand five bra&s;s Statues. The Park is plea&s;ant, with Trees &s;et in order, and adorned with Grotto's, Foun|tains, and Water-works, which come very near the <HI>Ita|lian;</HI> one piece &s;omewhat imitating <HI>Fra&s;cati,</HI> in which all Mu&s;ical In&s;truments are imitated, and a perpetual mo|tion attempted: and on the Front of the Buildings &s;tand the <HI>Cae&s;ars</HI> head. But the Eccho is mo&s;t remarkable; which may perfectly be di&s;tingui&s;hed to ten or twelve Replies. The greate&s;t Church is that of St. <HI>Gudula;</HI> in which is her Statua, the Devil &s;triving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are re|markable; the one built by <HI>Leopoldus,</HI> very fair on the out&s;ide: the other towards the North, hath been vi&s;ited by five Kings, in which is the Ho&s;t which bled being &s;tabbed by the Jews. In the <HI>Dominican</HI> Church is the Monument of the Duke of <HI>Cleve</HI> and his Dutche&s;s, in <HI>Go|rinthian</HI> bra&s;s. But for a New Church that of the <HI>Be|gennes,</HI> or Pious Maids, is very con&s;iderable; there be|ing Eight hundred of them in this City, who have a par|ticular place allotted to them, where they have built this
<PB N="36" REF="21"> milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Hou&s;es being &s;hut up, and a Garland placed on the doors, in the middle of which &dagger; was written IHS. I &s;aw the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Nunnery, and o|ther con&s;iderable Buildings. And after I had refre&s;hed my &s;elf at the Fi&s;h-Tavern, which is worth the &s;eeing, e&s;pecially for two Rooms in it, furni&s;hed from top to bottom with very good Pictures, I returned to <HI>Ant|werp.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Octob.</HI> 4. I travelled through an open Country, and lodged at <HI>Molin bru&s;l&egrave;.</HI> The <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Souldiers met us upon the Road this day, &s;ome of them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well &s;atisfied with a &s;mall Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country of <HI>Liege,</HI> and pa&s;&s;ed great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in the morning, arrived at <HI>Mae&s;treicht.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Trajectum ad Mo&s;am,</HI> or <HI>Mae&s;treicht,</HI> is a &s;trong Town, &s;eated upon the <HI>Maes,</HI> four Leagues below <HI>Liege.</HI> The Out-works are very con&s;iderable; the Wall is old. To|wards the South-ea&s;t lyeth a Hill, which ari&s;eth gently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one of the noble&s;t Quarries of Stone in the World. To &s;e|cure the Town from the di&s;advantage it might receive from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long &s;ince &s;lighted; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-&s;hot of it, and the Ba|&s;tion an&s;wering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On the other &s;ide of the River &s;tandeth <HI>Wicke,</HI> very well fortified al&s;o, and rather &s;tronger than <HI>Mae|&s;treicht,</HI> into which they might retire if the Town &s;hould be taken by Storm, it being united to <HI>Mae&s;treicht</HI> by a hand&s;ome Bridge over the <HI>Maes,</HI> con&s;i&s;ting of Nine Ar|ches. All about <HI>Wicke</HI> the Country is flat: there are
<PB N="37" REF="21"> many Inhabitants in it, and a hand&s;ome Gla&s;s hou&s;e.</P>
<P>The private Hou&s;es of <HI>Mae&s;treicht</HI> are generally cove|red with a black Slat, or Ardoi&s;e, otherwi&s;e not very beautiful. The Town hou&s;e is fair, &s;eated in one of the <HI>Piazza's,</HI> built of white Stone; it hath Nine large Windowes in a row on each &s;ide, and within is very well painted by <HI>Theodorus van der Schuer,</HI> who was Painter to the Queen of <HI>Sweden.</HI> In another <HI>Piaz|za</HI> is a Fountain, rows of Trees, and the great Church. This Town was be&s;ieged and taken from the King of <HI>Spain</HI> by the Confederate States, in the year 1632.</P>
<P><HI>October</HI> the Seventh I dined at <HI>Gallop,</HI> a &s;mall place, and came that night to <HI>Aken, Aix la Chapelle,</HI> or <HI>Aqui&s;|grane,</HI> an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by rea&s;on of its hot Baths, of which I &s;hall &s;peak more particularly in my Journey from <HI>Colen</HI> to <HI>London.</HI> Leaving <HI>Aken</HI> I travelled to|wards <HI>Juliers</HI> or <HI>Gulick,</HI> but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were &s;hut up, &s;o as we went on|ly under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near unto <HI>Gulick</HI> runneth a &s;hallow &s;wift River, called the <HI>Roer.</HI> At the Mouth of it, where it fal|leth into the <HI>Maes,</HI> is &s;eated a con&s;iderable Town, called <HI>Roermonde,</HI> through which I pa&s;&s;ed in the year 1673. when Sir <HI>Lionel Jenkins</HI> and Sir <HI>Jo&s;eph Wil|liam&s;on</HI> were &s;ent Plenipotentiaries to <HI>Cologne,</HI> in our Journey from <HI>Antwerp</HI> to that City. We then pa&s;|&s;ed the Country of <HI>Brabant,</HI> by the way of <HI>Thornhaut, Weert, Roermonde,</HI> and the next Night pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Erke|lens,</HI> lodged at <HI>Ca&s;tro,</HI> or <HI>Ca&s;ter,</HI> in <HI>Gulickland,</HI> where there are &s;till the remains of an old Ca&s;tle, formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country. <HI>Roermonde</HI> is &s;eated upon a ri&s;ing Hill, near the River
<PB N="38" REF="22"> <HI>Roer,</HI> hath a Colledge of Je&s;uits in it, a hand&s;ome <HI>Pi|azza,</HI> and an old Abby with divers Monuments very ancient, founded by <HI>Gerard</HI> Earl of <HI>Guelderland.</HI> From this Town their Excellencies were &s;aluted with the Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The <HI>Spaniards</HI> in mo&s;t places &s;triving to expre&s;s the highe&s;t of their re&s;pects.</P>
<P>From <HI>Gulick</HI> I travelled to <HI>Cologne,</HI> where I arrived <HI>October</HI> the <HI>10th,</HI> 1668.</P>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="account">
<PB N="39" REF="22">
<HEAD>A JOURNEY FROM COLEN TO VIENNA.</HEAD>
<P><HI>_COlen, Coln,</HI> or <HI>Colonia Agrippina,</HI> was anciently the Capital City of the <HI>Ubii,</HI> a people who were at fir&s;t po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ed of the Countries now called <HI>Berg</HI> and <HI>March,</HI> but being over run by the <HI>Ger|mans</HI> next to them, <HI>Agrippa,</HI> Lieutenant of <HI>Gallia,</HI> received them into protecti|on, and placed them upon this &s;ide of the <HI>Roman</HI> &s;hoar of the <HI>Rhine,</HI> where they built this place, and called it <HI>Oppidum Ubiorum,</HI> and the <HI>Romans</HI> &s;eating them&s;elves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of <HI>A|grippina,</HI> daughter to <HI>Germanicus,</HI> and wife to <HI>Claudius,</HI> who&s;e Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of <HI>Colonia Agrippina.</HI> It is at pre&s;ent one of the large&s;t, if
<PB N="40" REF="23"> not the greate&s;t, of any City in <HI>Germany,</HI> &s;ecured to|wards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches, and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The <HI>Rhine</HI> renders it delightful upon one &s;ide, and divers rows of Trees enclo&s;e the Town towards the Land. They have &s;ome Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins, but their be&s;t &s;ecurity is in the great number of men which they are able to rai&s;e within them&s;elves. Many of the Streets are broad, and paved with broad &s;tones.</P>
<P>It received the Chri&s;tian Faith very early, and <HI>Ma|ternus</HI> was their Bi&s;hop above 1350 years &s;ince, who &s;ub&s;cribed, among&s;t others, to the Council of <HI>Arles.</HI> They have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, which take up a great part of the Town; The Prebends and Canons Hou&s;es having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of St. <HI>Kunibald</HI> is con&s;iderable. The Convent of the <HI>Dominicans</HI> is fair, and newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. The Je&s;uites Church is well built and &s;tored with rich Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Church of St. <HI>Gereon,</HI> a Saint of great name here, marty|red about <HI>Colen</HI> in the time of <HI>Maximianus,</HI> are about a thou&s;and Saints heads, and on each &s;ide of the Altar a large Statua, whereof one is of a Moor; and under the Quire another Church. The Convent of the <HI>Carmelites</HI> is al&s;o con&s;iderable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it, though with no &s;ucce&s;s, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. <HI>Ur&s;ula</HI> is her Tomb, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thou&s;and Virgins, martyred by the <HI>Huns.</HI> Upon the Monument of St. <HI>Ur&s;ula</HI> is this In&s;cription;
<Q>Sepulcrum Sanctae Ur&s;ulae indicio Columbae detectum.</Q>
<PB N="41" REF="23"> Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Cro&s;&s;es and Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are al&s;o kept in this Church. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. <HI>Peter,</HI> and is very large, but not fini&s;hed. The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it. The Quire is hand&s;ome and very high: behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wi&s;e men which came from the Ea&s;t to wor&s;hip our Saviour, or the Kings of <HI>Arabia,</HI> of whom it was prophe&s;ied that they &s;hould bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of <HI>Colen: Melchior,</HI> who offered Gold, <HI>Ga&s;par</HI> Frankincen&s;e, and <HI>Baltha&s;ar</HI> Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goeth, were fir&s;t removed to <HI>Con&s;tantinople</HI> by <HI>Helena</HI> the Mother of <HI>Con|&s;tantine</HI> the Great; then to <HI>Milan</HI> by <HI>Eu&s;torfius</HI> Bi&s;hop thereof; and they have now re&s;ted at <HI>Colen</HI> for above five hundred years, being tran&s;lated from <HI>Milan</HI> hither by <HI>Rainoldus</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Colen,</HI> in the year 1164. There are al&s;o divers other Monuments of Bi&s;hops, and Noble Per&s;ons in Bra&s;s and Stone, and one in the &s;hape of a Ca&s;tle with &s;ix Towers. The Canons of this Church are all Noblemen; among whom the Duke of <HI>Newburg,</HI> who ordinarily re&s;ides at <HI>Du&s;&s;eldorff,</HI> about twenty <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles below this City, upon the <HI>Rhine,</HI> hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apo&s;tles, they &s;hew a Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to plunder it, the woman buried in it aro&s;e up and went home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon another, which &s;eems to be ancient, now made a Pri&s;on. Upon another Ruine al&s;o in the Streets lies a Tombemade out of one Stone; of which &s;ort of Tombs there are ma|ny in this City and other places; but the greate&s;t number of them I ever &s;aw was at <HI>Arles</HI> in <HI>Provence.</HI></P>
<P>The Senate Hou&s;e is Noble, having a fair Tower upon
<PB N="42" REF="24"> it, from whence there is a good pro&s;pect over the City. Upon the Front of the Senate Hou&s;e is a Man in <HI>Ba&s;&s;o re|lievo,</HI> fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to me, was formerly one of the Con&s;uls, who having had a conte&s;t with &s;ome Clergy-men about the Government of the City, on a &s;uddain they cau&s;ed a Lyon to be let in up|on him: upon which occa&s;ion he behaved him&s;elf &s;o well, as he delivered him&s;elf, and &s;lew the Lyon.</P>
<P>The Elector or Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Colen</HI> hath two Palaces in the City, but by agreement between him and the Town, he is not to &s;tay here above three days together. Only this pre&s;ent Archbi&s;hop, upon the coming down of the Im|perial Forces, and his lo&s;s of <HI>Bonna,</HI> took Sanctuary here in the Convent of St. <HI>Pantaleon,</HI> where he continued a great while.</P>
<P>The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Ho|mage to the Elector, much after this Form: <HI>We free Ci|tizens of</HI> Colen <HI>promi&s;e to the Archbi&s;hop, to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he pre&s;erves us in Right and Honour, and in our ancient Priviledges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of</HI> Colen. Mo&s;t of the City are of the <HI>Roman</HI> Church, and the whole Town &s;o full of Convents, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it is not unde&s;ervedly &s;tyled the <HI>Rome of Germany.</HI> The <HI>Lutherans</HI> have al&s;o a Church within the Walls, and the <HI>Calvini&s;ts</HI> at <HI>Mulheim,</HI> half a League down the Stream on the other &s;ide of the <HI>Rhine.</HI></P>
<P>Over again&s;t <HI>Colen</HI> lieth <HI>D&uacute;tz,</HI> a &s;mall Village, inhabi|ted chiefly by Jews. The Ve&s;&s;els which come out of the <HI>Low-Countries</HI> hither are long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which they may be drawn, and e&s;cape the Injuries they would otherwi&s;e &s;uffer by the Ice in Winter.</P>
<PB N="43" REF="24">
<P>Be&s;ides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citi|zens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick and Corre&s;pondence with divers Countries, e&s;pecially by the convenience of the <HI>Rhine.</HI> They &s;peak not the be&s;t <HI>High-dutch;</HI> but <HI>Latin</HI> and <HI>French</HI> are under&s;tood by many: Divers Ho&s;ts in Inns &s;peak <HI>Latin,</HI> and the Ser|vants <HI>French;</HI> which proves a good help unto Travellers. It was made an Univer&s;ity about the year 1388. Be&s;ides the General Ho&s;pitals for young and old per&s;ons, there are two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a <HI>Pharmacopaea Colonien&s;is,</HI> or a <HI>Di&s;pen&s;atory</HI> proper to the place, whereby <HI>Apothecaries</HI> compound their Medicines. I was acquainted with one of the be&s;t, Mr. <HI>Elburg,</HI> a knowing and obliging per&s;on, who was his Maje&s;ties A|pothecary while he re&s;ided at <HI>Colen,</HI> and whom my honoured Friend Sir <HI>Alexander Fra&s;er,</HI> his Maje&s;ties chief Phy&s;ician, made u&s;e of, who lived in great reputation in this City.</P>
<P>Two hundred years &s;ince <HI>Aeneas Sylvius</HI> left an high expre&s;&s;ion concerning this place, <HI>Coloni&acirc; quae de conjuge</HI> Claudii <HI>matre</HI> Neronis, Agrippina <HI>dicta e&s;t, &amp; trium Magorum o&s;&s;ibus illu&s;trata, nihil magnificentius, nihil orna|tius, tot&acirc;</HI> Europ&acirc; <HI>reperias:</HI> which though, if &s;trictly con&s;trued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath be|held <HI>Paris, Naples, Venice,</HI> &amp;c. yet doth it declare the no|blene&s;s of this City, even in former times.</P>
<P>We left <HI>Colen</HI> about four a Clock in the Afternoon, be|ing drawn up the Stream with Hor&s;es, they being made fa&s;t by a very long Rope to the Ma&s;t; we lodged in a &s;mall Village, having had a good pro&s;pect of <HI>Colen</HI> all this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place <HI>Ju|lius Cae&s;ar</HI> made his Bridge over the <HI>Rhine.</HI> The next day we came to <HI>Bon,</HI> the Seat of the pre&s;ent Archbi&s;hop and Elector of <HI>Colen, Maximilianus Henricus,</HI> Duke of
<PB N="44" REF="25"> <HI>Bavaria,</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Hildi&s;heim</HI> and <HI>Liege,</HI> and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout <HI>Italy.</HI> This place was formerly called <HI>Bonna,</HI> or <HI>Ca&s;tra Bonnen&s;ia,</HI> the win|tering place, in the time of <HI>Tacitus</HI> of the &s;ixth Legion. It was not long &s;ince very well fortified by the order of the pre&s;ent Archbi&s;hop, and the direction of Colonel <HI>Bi|&s;er,</HI> a blind man, having <HI>Cataracts</HI> in both his eyes. The Archbi&s;hops Palace is very Noble, and there is a Cham|ber &s;eated a good way into the <HI>Rhine,</HI> to which they pa&s;s thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of the highe&s;t of the &s;even Hills by the <HI>Rhine,</HI> which are &s;een at a great di&s;tance; and upon divers of them &s;tand old ruined Ca&s;tles. On the <HI>15th</HI> we pa&s;&s;ed by a plea&s;ant I&s;land with a Convent in it: at <HI>Remagen</HI> is al&s;o a Con|vent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. In the Evening we lodged near to a Ca&s;tle, ruined four years before by the Electors of <HI>Triers</HI> and <HI>Colen,</HI> it belonging at that time to the Duke of <HI>Lorrain.</HI> On the <HI>16th</HI> early in the Morning we came to <HI>Andernach,</HI> where the plague was very much at that time, and they kept a great many of their &s;ick in Boats upon the <HI>Rhine.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Andernach,</HI> of old <HI>Antenacum,</HI> was one of the <HI>Roman</HI> Fortre&s;&s;es. Upon this River, &s;ome think that <HI>Caligula</HI> was born, and that <HI>Valentinian</HI> was buried hereabouts. Near unto this place are al&s;o Mineral Springs, well fre|quented, and much made u&s;e of. The Town is encompa&s;&s;ed with an old Wall; and the Gates were &s;hut up by rea&s;on of the Plague: Notwith&s;tanding, there being divers Fri|ers in our company, &s;everal of the Towns-men &s;ent out di&s;hes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day the pa&s;&s;age by water &s;eeming tedious to us, Mr. <HI>Mul&s;troth,</HI> a worthy <HI>German</HI> Gentleman, with whom I travelled as far as <HI>Spire,</HI> was willing we &s;hould hire a Coach toge|ther,
<PB N="45" REF="25"> which we did, and invited the Friers with whom we had breakfa&s;ted, to go along with us in it to <HI>Coblentz.</HI> We pa&s;&s;ed through a very plea&s;ant Country, between rows of <HI>Walnut-trees,</HI> in &s;ight of two of the Elector of <HI>Triers</HI> Hou&s;es, and near to a Hou&s;e belonging to the Count <HI>de Wert.</HI></P>
<P>We pa&s;&s;ed the <HI>Mo&s;ella</HI> over a hand &s;ome Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches, built by Archbi&s;hop <HI>Baldus,</HI> or <HI>Baldui|nus,</HI> in the year 1344. and coming into the Town, we went to the <HI>Dominican</HI> Convent, which is plea&s;antly &s;eated near the Banks of the River <HI>Mo&s;ella;</HI> but the Pri|or of the Convent, whom we had brought with us, was &s;o obliging, that he would not part with us that night; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodg|ings: He invited al&s;o &s;ome of the Convent to bear us company; and after a hand&s;ome Supper, with plenty of excellent <HI>Mo&s;elle</HI> wine, we went to bed between two Feather-beds.</P>
<P><HI>Coblentz,</HI> or <HI>Confluentia,</HI> is a Town of a Triangular Figure, &s;eated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the <HI>Rhine</HI> and the <HI>Mo&s;ella,</HI> which make two &s;ides thereof, and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other; which is now well fortified after the mo&s;t re|gular Modern way. The Wall within the&s;e Works had many old high Towers; and formerly there was another &s;till nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and con&s;equent|ly containing a le&s;s &s;pace of ground. This Town is un|der the Elector and Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Triers, Carolus Ca&s;par,</HI> of the Noble Family of the <HI>Leyen,</HI> Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in <HI>Gallia Belgica,</HI> and the Kingdom of <HI>Arles.</HI> It was given to the Church of <HI>Triers</HI> when <HI>Me|doaldus</HI> was Archbi&s;hop above a thou&s;and years &s;ince, in the time of King <HI>Dagobert.</HI> The Situation is plea&s;ant and convenient, and lieth over again&s;t the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Her|man&s;tein,</HI>
<PB N="46" REF="26"> or <HI>Ehrenbreit&s;tein,</HI> that is, <HI>The Stone of far extended Honour;</HI> at the foot of which Ca&s;tle, upon the &s;hoar of the <HI>Rhine,</HI> under a great Rock, &s;tands a very Noble Palace of the Electors, two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions &s;tanding towards the River, and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the <HI>Rhine</HI> to <HI>Cob|lentz:</HI> when any great Ve&s;&s;el pa&s;&s;eth by, they let &s;lip three Boats, whereby the pa&s;&s;age lieth open, and make them fa&s;t again afterwards. In the <HI>German</HI> wars the <HI>Spa|niards</HI> thru&s;t in a Garri&s;on into this Town; which was af|terwards beaten out by the <HI>Rhinegrave</HI> for the King of <HI>Sweden;</HI> and the &s;trong Ca&s;tle of <HI>Ethrenbriet&s;tein</HI> being put into the hands of the <HI>French,</HI> the Emperours For|ces &s;eized upon the Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Triers,</HI> who then was <HI>Philippus Chri&s;tophorus,</HI> and carried him away to <HI>Vienna.</HI></P>
<P>In places where the <HI>Rhine</HI> runneth through a low Coun|try and a fat Soyl, it wa&s;heth away the Banks: to &s;ecure which, in divers places they have made great Works of Wood, and al&s;o to &s;ecure Ve&s;&s;els from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of the Ri|ver <HI>Loire</HI> in <HI>France,</HI> I ob&s;erved them in &s;ome places to be hand&s;omly defended for a long way together with Free|&s;tone.</P>
<P>Near unto <HI>Coblentz,</HI> upon a Hill, is a Convent of <HI>Car|thu&s;ians. October</HI> the <HI>17th</HI> we went up the <HI>Rhine</HI> to <HI>Bop|part,</HI> a walled Town, upon the we&s;tern bank, where <HI>Van Trump</HI> was at that time: It is a very old Town, one of the <HI>Roman</HI> Fortre&s;&s;es again&s;t the <HI>Germans,</HI> called anci|ently <HI>Bodobriga;</HI> &s;ome would have it called <HI>Bopport</HI> from <HI>Beauport, Fair-haven,</HI> or <HI>Bonport,</HI> a good convenient place for Ve&s;&s;els to retire into, or to ride in.</P>
<P>On the <HI>18th</HI> we dined at St. <HI>Guer,</HI> a plea&s;ant Town belonging to the <HI>Landtgrave</HI> of <HI>He&s;&s;e,</HI> who hath a Ca&s;tle
<PB N="47" REF="26"> here. Coming on &s;hoar we met with an odd cu&s;tome: for upon the Wall &s;ide there is fa&s;tned a Collar of Bra&s;s at pre&s;ent, but was formerly of Lead, and given by <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth; into this mo&s;t Strangers that come put their Necks, at which time they ask them, <HI>Whether they will be &s;prinkled with water, or drink wine?</HI> and if they choo&s;e the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to the Company. The Queen of <HI>Sweden</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by this place, gave a great Silver Cup, out of which they now drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this night at <HI>We&s;el,</HI> a Town &s;ituated between a high Hill and the River, belonging to the Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Triers.</HI> Here in the Market-place they &s;hew us the print of St. <HI>Huberts</HI> Hor|&s;es foot in a Free-&s;tone.</P>
<P>On the <HI>19th</HI> we came to <HI>Baccharach,</HI> or <HI>ad Bacchi aras,</HI> belonging to the Elector <HI>Palatine;</HI> a place famous for Ex|cellent Wines. We pa&s;&s;ed by an old Ca&s;tle &s;eated upon a Rock in the middle of the <HI>Rhine,</HI> being of an irregular figure, called <HI>Pfalts,</HI> where formerly the Prince <HI>Pala|tines</HI> of the <HI>Rhine</HI> were born, the Prince&s;&s;es being &s;ent hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to <HI>Dreick&s;hau&s;en;</HI> the next day we went by a dangerous Pa&s;|&s;age, there being many Rocks under water, which cau&s;e the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little a|bove this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the <HI>Rhine,</HI> called the <HI>Mou&s;e-tower,</HI> built by <HI>Hatto</HI> Archbi|&s;hop of <HI>Mentz,</HI> in the year 900. who, as the Story goeth, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, where he burnt them all, &s;aying, <HI>They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn.</HI> After which he was &s;o per&s;ecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them he cau&s;ed this Tower to be built in the middle of the <HI>Rhine,</HI> which did not avail him, for they followed him
<PB N="48" REF="27"> thither al&s;o, and at la&s;t devoured him. A little above this lieth <HI>Bing</HI> upon the We&s;tern &s;hoar; a con&s;iderable Town, belonging to the Elector of <HI>Mentz:</HI> here our Boat &s;tayed to pay Cu&s;tome, as it had done al&s;o at <HI>Bonna, Liutz, Hammer&s;tein, Andernach, Coblentz, Lode&s;heim, Bopport,</HI> St. <HI>Gower, Cub,</HI> and <HI>Baccharach.</HI> For the trade of the <HI>Rhine</HI> being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make u&s;e of that advantage, which, though it abateth the gains of the Merchant, brings con&s;iderable profit to them&s;elves.</P>
<P><HI>Bing,</HI> or <HI>Bingium,</HI> was an old <HI>Roman</HI> Fortre&s;s upon the <HI>Rhine,</HI> where the River <HI>Navus</HI> or <HI>Naw</HI> entreth into it; over which latter there is a hand&s;ome Stone-bridge: In this Town were many of the Duke of <HI>Lorrain</HI>'s Army &s;ick and wounded, who three weeks before had main|tained a fight again&s;t the Forces of the Elector <HI>Palatine,</HI> near this place. From <HI>Bing</HI> we continued our Journey to <HI>Mentz:</HI> at <HI>Rude&s;heim</HI> in <HI>Rhinegaw,</HI> a place noted for good Wine, they &s;hewed us a Boy, who&s;e hair was thick and woolly, like to the <HI>African-</HI>Moors, but of a fine white colour, which being &s;omewhat an odd &s;ight, I took away &s;ome of his hair with me.</P>
<P><HI>Mentz, Moguntia, Moguntiacum,</HI> and by the <HI>French Mayence,</HI> is &s;eated over again&s;t the Confluence of the Ri|ver <HI>Main,</HI> with the <HI>Rhine,</HI> or rather a little below it; in a fertile Country, abounding in all Provi&s;ions and good Wine; it lieth at length, and is mo&s;t extended towards the River; and that part excelleth the other towards the Land, which is not &s;o populous or well-built: It is a &s;trong place, and well guarded; it hath many Churches and Mona&s;teries, and &s;ome fair Buildings, e&s;pecially tho&s;e of publick concern, as the Palace of the Elector, and o|thers: But the narrowne&s;s of the Streets, and many old Hou&s;es, take away much from the beauty of the City.
<PB N="49" REF="27"> It is an Univer&s;ity, begun about the year 1486. or as o|thers will have it 1461. This place al&s;o challengeth the Invention of Printing, or at lea&s;t the fir&s;t promotion or perfection thereof: And the Territory about it is famous for the de&s;truction of the <HI>Roman</HI> Legions under <HI>Varus,</HI> by the <HI>Germans. Gu&s;taphus Adolphus,</HI> King of <HI>Sweden,</HI> was wonderfully plea&s;ed upon the taking of this City, 1631. entring into it in State upon the <HI>14th</HI> of <HI>December,</HI> it be|ing his Birth-day, which began the <HI>38th</HI> year of his life, and kept his Court and <HI>Chri&s;tmas</HI> here; where at one time there were with him &s;ix chief Princes of the Empire, twelve Amba&s;&s;adours of Kings, States, Electors, and Princes; be&s;ides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town, they found great &s;tore of Ordnance and Powder; and the City re|deemed it &s;elf from Pillage by giving the King a Ran&s;ome of Eighty thou&s;and <HI>Dollars;</HI> and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thou&s;and more, of which the Jews paid Eighteen thou&s;and; Archbi&s;hop <HI>Wambold</HI> &s;aving him&s;elf upon the <HI>Rhine,</HI> and retiring to <HI>Colen.</HI> The King cau&s;ed al&s;o two great Bridges to be made, one over the <HI>Main,</HI> founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats, the re&s;t being built upon great Piles of Wood: Another over the <HI>Rhine</HI> &s;upported by &s;ixty one great flat Boats, each lying the di&s;tance of an Arch from one another; and many Families of people living &s;ometimes in the Boats un|der the Bridge. The Bridge over the <HI>Main</HI> is taken a|way; but that over the <HI>Rhine</HI> is &s;till continued: Upon which I &s;aw the pre&s;ent Elector pa&s;&s;ing in his Coach; a Per&s;on of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his Name <HI>Joannes Philippus</HI> of the Noble Family of <HI>Schoen|burg,</HI> Elector and Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Mentz</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Wurtz|burg,</HI> and Bi&s;hop of <HI>Worms,</HI> Arch-Chancellour of the
<PB N="50" REF="28"> Empire for all <HI>Germany;</HI> the fir&s;t of the <HI>Electoral Colledge;</HI> in all publick Conventions he &s;its at the right hand of the Emperour, and is a Succe&s;&s;our of the famous <HI>Boniface,</HI> an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> man, Bi&s;hop of <HI>Mentz,</HI> who &s;o much promo|ted the Chri&s;tian <HI>Religion</HI> in the&s;e parts. But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Eccle&s;ia&s;tical Electors of <HI>Colen</HI> and <HI>Triers,</HI> yet his Territories come &s;hort; and they lye not together, but &s;catteringly with tho&s;e of the <HI>Palatinate, Spier, Franckfort,</HI> and divers places in <HI>Franconia.</HI> But of late he hath much encrea&s;ed his Power, by &s;eizing the great City of <HI>Erfurdt</HI> in <HI>Turingia,</HI> which he hath &s;ince much beautified and &s;trength|ned by a Citadel built upon St. <HI>Peters hill.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Mentz</HI> I pa&s;&s;ed by water up the River <HI>Main,</HI> to <HI>Franckfort,</HI> a free City of the Empire, called <HI>Trajectum Franconum,</HI> a Pa&s;&s;age or Ford of the <HI>Franks,</HI> as &s;erving them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from <HI>Gaul;</HI> at pre&s;ent <HI>Franckford</HI> upon the <HI>Main,</HI> to differ|ence it from <HI>Franckford</HI> upon the River <HI>Oder,</HI> which is an Univer&s;ity: It is a large Town, divided into two parts by the River; the le&s;&s;er called <HI>Saxonhau&s;en,</HI> or <HI>Saxon|hou&s;es,</HI> united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the <HI>Main,</HI> of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well &s;eated for it, as having the ad|vantage of the River <HI>Main,</HI> which pa&s;&s;eth by <HI>Bamberg, Schweinfurt, Wurtzburg, Guemund,</HI> or <HI>Gaudia mundi;</HI> and al&s;o the <HI>Tauber,</HI> and other Rivers running into it, af|fordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of <HI>Franconia;</HI> and the <HI>Main</HI> running into the <HI>Rhine,</HI> makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.</P>
<P>But this place is mo&s;t remarkable for the Election of the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the <HI>Golden Bull,</HI> &s;hould be in this City, as al&s;o for two great Marts or
<PB N="51" REF="28"> Fairs kept in <HI>March</HI> and <HI>September;</HI> at which times there is an extraordinary concour&s;e of people from remote parts, in order to buying and &s;elling of &s;everal Commo|dities, e&s;pecially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every year, and have no &s;mall dealings that way, by the Fa|ctors of the <HI>Germans, Hollanders, Italians, French,</HI> and <HI>Engli&s;h:</HI> although at other times their trading in Books &s;eems not great; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the <HI>Stationers</HI> Shops being &s;hut up, made but a dull &s;how. Here are al&s;o a great number of good Hor&s;es bought and &s;old: and on the North-&s;ide of the City there is a &s;pacious place for a Hor&s;e-Fair. The City is &s;trong and well fortified; and mo&s;t part of the Town are <HI>Luthe|rans.</HI> In the <HI>German</HI> wars, the King of <HI>Sweden</HI> having taken <HI>Hanaw,</HI> &s;ent a Me&s;&s;enger to <HI>Franckfort</HI> to know whether the City would peaceably and &s;peedily &s;et open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garri&s;on, or &s;tand to the hazard of a Siege: And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the wor&s;t, they con|&s;ented, That the King &s;hould have free pa&s;&s;age for his Army through the City; and that for the better a&s;&s;urance of it, &s;ix hundred of his men &s;hould be received for a Garri&s;on into <HI>Saxonhau&s;en;</HI> and al&s;o that the Magi&s;trates and People &s;hould take an Oath unto his Maje&s;ty. So that upon the <HI>17th</HI> of <HI>November,</HI> 1631. the King's Army pa&s;|&s;ed through <HI>Saxonhau&s;en</HI> over the Bridge, quite through the Town. Colonel <HI>Vitzthumb</HI> was left Governour in <HI>Saxonhau&s;en;</HI> and the King him&s;elf rode bare-headed through the Streets: and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders; and three days after returned thither again with the <HI>Landtgrave</HI> of <HI>He&s;&s;en-Ca&s;&s;ell,</HI> and the <HI>Landtgrave</HI> of <HI>He&s;&s;en-Darm&s;tadt,</HI> where they met the Seventeen Earls of the <HI>Wetteraw,</HI> or
<PB N="52" REF="29"> <HI>Veteravia,</HI> and were fea&s;ted in the &s;ame room where the Emperours at their Coronation u&s;e to be entertain|ed.</P>
<P>In <HI>Saxonhau&s;en</HI> there is a Hou&s;e anciently belonging unto the Knights of the <HI>Teutonick</HI> Order, which hath the priviledge of a Sanctuary for Man-&s;layers and Bankrupts; but it is a &s;ecurity but for fourteen days. Upon this &s;ide there is the large&s;t portion of Land belonging to <HI>Franck|fort;</HI> on the other &s;ide very little.</P>
<P>This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there are &s;o many Jews in it; for a di&s;tinction they wear great Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar dre&s;s of their Head.</P>
<P>The Collegiate Church of St. <HI>Bartholomew,</HI> where ma|ny of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath a high Steeple, and is built of a red &s;tone. There are divers hand&s;ome Fountains in the Town, and good Hou|&s;es; in one of the be&s;t of which liveth Mon&s;ieur <HI>Pierre Neufville,</HI> a great Merchant, and a civil worthy per&s;on, well known in mo&s;t places of Commerce; who obliged me with Letters to <HI>Venice,</HI> and other places.</P>
<P>From <HI>Franckfort</HI> I continued my Journey through the <HI>Berg&s;traes,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Darm&s;tadt,</HI> which belongs to one of the Brothers of the Hou&s;e of <HI>He&s;&s;en,</HI> commonly known by the name of the <HI>Landtgrave</HI> of <HI>He&s;&s;en Darm&s;tadt;</HI> and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the &s;ight of Hills, and &s;ometimes near them: the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees, Vines, Corn, and in &s;ome places with Tobacco; till I arrived at <HI>Heidelberg.</HI></P>
<P>In coming into this Town we pa&s;&s;ed over the River <HI>Neccar, Nicer,</HI> or <HI>Necarus,</HI> upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood: in the &s;ame manner is the long Bridge covered at the en|trance of the City of <HI>Ale&s;&s;andria della paglia</HI> in <HI>Italy.</HI></P>
<PB N="53" REF="29">
<P>The River <HI>Neccar</HI> ari&s;eth near the <HI>Sylva Martiana,</HI> now <HI>Swartzwald,</HI> or <HI>Black Fore&s;t,</HI> and pa&s;&s;ing through the Territories of the Duke of <HI>Wittenberg,</HI> runneth into the <HI>Rhine</HI> at <HI>Manheim:</HI> This, though none of the great|e&s;t, yet is a con&s;iderable River of <HI>Germany;</HI> and hath di|vers good Towns upon it and near it, as <HI>Sultz, Tubingen, Wirtingen, E&s;&s;ingen, Stutgard, Can&s;tat, Lauffen, Hallbrun, Heidelberg.</HI></P>
<P>There being wars at that time when I was in this Coun|try, between the Elector <HI>Palatine</HI> and the Duke of <HI>Lo|rain:</HI> The Elector re&s;ided for the mo&s;t part at <HI>Franken|dale,</HI> to be near his Forces.</P>
<P><HI>Heidelberg</HI> is &s;eated on the South-&s;ide of the River <HI>Neccar,</HI> between it and a ridge of high Hills, &s;o as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to be extraordinary &s;trong, as being over-looked by the ad|jacent Mountains: It lieth mo&s;t at length from Ea&s;t to We&s;t: It hath been an Univer&s;ity &s;ince the year 1346. at which time it was begun by <HI>Rupertus,</HI> Count <HI>Palatine,</HI> and at pre&s;ent is much frequented. In the great Church was kept the famous Library, which, after that the <HI>Spa|niards</HI> had taken this Town 1620. was carried to <HI>Rome,</HI> and added to the <HI>Vatican,</HI> where I &s;aw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one &s;ide of a very long Gallery be|longing to the <HI>Vatican</HI> Library; and the Duke of <HI>Urbin</HI>'s Library placed on the other&s;ide, over-again&s;t it: both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library. In this Church and the Church al&s;o of St. <HI>Peter,</HI> are divers Monuments of Princes of the <HI>Palatine</HI> Family, and of Learned and Famous Men. The <HI>French</HI> have a Church here, and the pre&s;ent Elector is of the Order of the <HI>Holy Gho&s;t;</HI> and his Son a Mare&s;chal of <HI>France:</HI> and good <HI>French</HI> and <HI>High-dutch</HI> are both generally &s;poken here. The <HI>Lutherans</HI> have al&s;o a Church in this Town, by the
<PB N="54" REF="30"> favour of the pre&s;ent Elector; although he him&s;elf be a <HI>Calvini&s;t:</HI> and to expre&s;s his generous kindne&s;s the higher in this point, the fir&s;t Stone was laid by him&s;elf and his Son; and it is called the <HI>Church of Providence,</HI> according to the Elector's Motto, <HI>Dominus Providebit.</HI></P>
<P>Upon the Town-hou&s;e is a Clock with divers Moti|ons, and when the Clock &s;trikes, the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and &s;hakes his wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like. The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Hor&s;es are &s;eat|ed upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperiali&s;ts; as al&s;o divers of the Statues on the out|&s;ide of the Ca&s;tle, which is &s;eated high above the Town.</P>
<P>The pre&s;ent Elector is <HI>Carolus Ludovicus,</HI> Son to the King of <HI>Bohemia, Frederick</HI> the Fifth; he was born in the year 1617. and pa&s;&s;ed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate: and at the pacification at <HI>Prague</HI> 1635. he was excluded from any re&s;titution to be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of <HI>Mun|&s;ter</HI> 1648. he was re&s;tored to the lower <HI>Palatinate,</HI> and 1652. returned to the po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ion of his Fortunes: a highly accompli&s;hed Prince, much honoured and beloved by his Subjects. In the year 1650. he married <HI>Charlotta,</HI> Daughter to <HI>William</HI> the Fifth, <HI>Landgrave,</HI> and to the famous <HI>Amelia Elizabeth, Landgrave&s;s</HI> of <HI>Ha&s;&s;ia;</HI> by whom he had the <HI>Chur</HI> Prince, or Electoral Prince <HI>Charles,</HI> and a Daughter, the Prince&s;s <HI>Charlotta Elizabetha;</HI> but up|on &s;ome di&s;content the Prince&s;s Electre&s;s &s;ince returned to her own Friends and Country. This Elector is al&s;o Knight of the mo&s;t Noble Order of the Garter, Great Trea&s;urer of the Empire, and together with the Elector of <HI>Saxony,</HI> Vicar of the Empire.</P>
<PB N="55" REF="30">
<P>In his Palace or Ca&s;tle at <HI>Heidelberg,</HI> are divers things remarkable; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few; within which is a Theatre for Comedies. This was formerly called <HI>Trutzkai&s;ar,</HI> or the Tower that bad Defi|ance, or threatned the Emperor; but &s;ince the Re&s;taura|tion of the Elector, there are &s;ome Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star, and the old di&s;obliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at pre&s;ent called the <HI>Stern&s;chanz,</HI> or the <HI>Star-fort.</HI> By it is a hand&s;ome Garden; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto's and Water-works are very hand&s;ome: they were al&s;o making divers others, having the advantage of the &s;ide of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Among&s;t other Fountains, that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with Ve&s;&s;els of no ordinary &s;ize; yet incon&s;iderable, if com|pared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars; it was built by this pre&s;ent Elector's Or|der, 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before: It contains 204 Faiders and odd mea&s;ure, or about two hundred Tuns: in&s;tead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers In&s;criptions upon them, and &s;upported by carved Pedi&s;tals. Upon one &s;ide of it is a hand&s;ome Stairca&s;e to a&s;cend to the top of the Ve&s;|&s;el; upon the top of which is a Gallery &s;et round with Balli&s;ters, three and forty &s;teps high from the ground.</P>
<P>About an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> mile from <HI>Heidelberg,</HI> between the Hills, is a &s;olitary place, where three large Streams or Springs gu&s;h out of the Mountain, and pre&s;ently fill five Ponds, have three hand&s;ome Ca&s;cates or Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are &s;trong enough in a
<PB N="56" REF="31"> &s;mall &s;pace to turn four Mills; this is called <HI>Wolfsbrun,</HI> or the <HI>Wolfs Fountain,</HI> from a Prince&s;s who formerly re|tired into a Cave in this de&s;art place, and was here de|voured by a <HI>Wolf.</HI></P>
<P>While I was at <HI>Heidelberg,</HI> two <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> men came kind|ly to me, Mr. <HI>Villers,</HI> and <HI>Timothy Middleton,</HI> belonging to <HI>Lobensfeldt Cloi&s;ter,</HI> a Convent formerly of the Je&s;u|its, but &s;ince let out to about an hundred <HI>Engli&s;h,</HI> who left their Country 1661. came up the <HI>Rhine,</HI> and by the permi&s;&s;ion of the Elector, &s;etled them&s;elves a few miles from hence, living altogether, men, women, and chil|dren, in one Hou&s;e; and having a community of many things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling them|&s;elves Chri&s;tian Jews; and one Mr. <HI>Poole,</HI> formerly li|ving at <HI>Norwich,</HI> is their Head. They cut not their Beards, and ob&s;erve many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think them&s;elves obliged to from &s;ome Expre&s;&s;ions in the Old Te&s;tament, or from &s;ome New Ex|po&s;ition of their Leaders.</P>
<P>From <HI>Heidelberg</HI> I made an excur&s;ion, and had a &s;ight of <HI>Spire,</HI> &s;eated in a Plain, on the We&s;t-&s;ide of the <HI>Rhine;</HI> a place of Antiquity, conceived to be <HI>Urbs Nemetum</HI> of old; a large place and populous. The King of <HI>Sweden</HI> in the <HI>German</HI> wars demoli&s;hed the Works about it, not willing to &s;pare &s;o great a number of his Souldiers as was required to Garri&s;on it, and make it good. It is an Epi&s;copal See under the Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Mentz:</HI> there are many fair Hou&s;es in it, divers Churches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large Towers. The <HI>Romani&s;ts,</HI> the <HI>Lutherans,</HI> and <HI>Calvini&s;ts</HI> preach in it at &s;everal hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality, by rea&s;on of the concour&s;e of per&s;ons from o|ther parts of <HI>Germany,</HI> for the deci&s;ion of Law Suits: For here the Imperial Chamber is held, and many differ|ences
<PB N="57" REF="31"> which ari&s;e in the Empire are determined, and the Electors and other Princes, in &s;ome tryals at Law, may be called hither. It is a &s;ettled Court, which <HI>Maximi|lian</HI> the Fir&s;t, for the better ea&s;e of all per&s;ons, placed fir&s;t at <HI>Worms,</HI> and not long after it was fixed at <HI>Spire,</HI> from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the con|&s;ent of all the E&s;tates. Things Cogno&s;cible in this Court are determined by an Imperial Judge, and &s;ealed with the Emperours Arms, &s;o that there lieth no appeal unto the Emperour.</P>
<P>Another day I went to <HI>Manheim,</HI> formerly a Village, &s;eated at the Confluence of the <HI>Rhine</HI> and <HI>Neccar;</HI> but walled about by the Elector <HI>Frederick</HI> the Fourth, and &s;ince is much encrea&s;ed; all the Streets being large and uniform, and a Noble Citadel built; within which, over|again&s;t the Gate, the Elector de&s;igns a Palace, the Model of which I &s;aw: and at pre&s;ent, on the right hand, there are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth the Elector <HI>Palatine;</HI> in another the Prince his Son; and in the third the Prince&s;s his Daughter: behind the&s;e there is a hand&s;ome Garden and Lodgings for <HI>Degen Felderen,</HI> the <HI>Churfur&s;ts</HI> Mi&s;tre&s;s. Here are &s;ome good Pictures, as a Head of <HI>Hans Holben,</HI> and a Landskip with the Sto|ry of the Union of the <HI>Swi&s;&s;ers.</HI> The Bridge over the Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is al&s;o remarkable, as having &s;ix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three &s;mall ones on the &s;ide. There are Pali&s;ado's all a|long the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and with|out upon the <HI>E&s;planade.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Heidelberg</HI> I travelled to <HI>Nurnberg</HI> in the Compa|ny of Captain <HI>Wagen&s;eyl,</HI> who had been in the <HI>Poli&s;h</HI> and <HI>Hungarian</HI> wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Laun&s;teyn,</HI> belonging to the E|lector <HI>Palatine,</HI> to prevent its &s;urpri&s;al by the Duke of
<PB N="58" REF="32"> <HI>Lorrain.</HI> He was then employed to rai&s;e a Company at <HI>Nurnberg,</HI> for the Service of the Elector <HI>Palatine.</HI> I had a good advantage in my Journey by his Company; for he travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, and courteous per&s;on.</P>
<P>The fir&s;t day we travelled near to the <HI>Neccar,</HI> in &s;tony and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to <HI>Mo&s;pach,</HI> the Pea&s;ants conducted us from Village to Vil|lage with bundles of lighted Straw.</P>
<P>The next day we came to <HI>Poxberg,</HI> where there is an old Ca&s;tle, and in the afternoon reached <HI>Morkenthal,</HI> or <HI>Mergetheim,</HI> the Seat of the Grand Ma&s;ter of the <HI>Herrhn Deutchern,</HI> or the <HI>Teutonick Order.</HI> The Town is well|built, hath a fair <HI>Piazza,</HI> with a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Ma&s;ters, with a long <HI>Corridore</HI> from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ions, as may be &s;een in the exact Account of the <HI>Teutonick Knights</HI> of <HI>Pru&s;&s;ia,</HI> made out from the be&s;t Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. <HI>A&s;hmole,</HI> in his Noble De&s;cription of the Order of the Garter; and as <HI>Lewis du May,</HI> Coun&s;ellor unto the Duke of <HI>Wirtenberg,</HI> hath &s;et it down. <HI>For the Knights Templars and of St.</HI> John, <HI>having fought pro&s;perou&s;ly again&s;t the Infidels, rai&s;ed an Emulation in &s;ome</HI> German <HI>Gentlemen, who waited upon the Emperour</HI> Frederick <HI>the Fir&s;t, in his Expedition to the</HI> Holy Land, <HI>to take the</HI> Croi&s;ado. <HI>And becau&s;e they were in&s;talled in the Church and Ho&s;pital of St.</HI> Mary <HI>at</HI> Jeru&s;alem, <HI>they were called</HI> Marianites. <HI>Their Order differed nothing from tho&s;e above-mentioned, but in the form and colour of their Cro&s;s, and was approved by Pope</HI> Cele&s;tin <HI>the Third. Afterwards when</HI> Jeru&s;alem <HI>was ta|ken by</HI> Saladin, <HI>tho&s;e Knights betook them&s;elves to</HI> Ptole|mais, <HI>from whence the Emperour</HI> Frederick <HI>the Second, &s;ent them back into</HI> Germany, <HI>and employed them again&s;t the</HI>
<PB N="59" REF="32"> Pru&s;&s;ians <HI>and</HI> Livonians, <HI>who at that time were &s;till Pa|gans. But by the Valour and Piety of tho&s;e Knights, their Souls were brought into &s;ubjection to Chri&s;t, and their Bo|dies to the Order which began that war in the year 1220. a little while after the&s;e Knights found them&s;elves Ma|&s;ters of a Country of very large Extent, which obeyed the Order, till the year 1525. at which time</HI> Sigi&s;mond, <HI>King of</HI> Poland, <HI>gave the inve&s;titure of</HI> Pru&s;&s;ia <HI>unto</HI> Albert <HI>Mar|qui&s;s of</HI> Brandenburg. <HI>In the year 1563. the Great Ma|&s;ter became Secular again, and took a part of the Lands &s;ub|ject to the Order, with the name of Duke of</HI> Curland. <HI>And</HI> Livonia <HI>having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars between the</HI> Polanders, Mu&s;covites, <HI>and</HI> Swedes; <HI>the&s;e la&s;t did at length become Ma&s;ters of it, and have it in po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ion &s;till. So that there is no more remaining of the</HI> Teutonick Order, <HI>but &s;ome Commanderies &s;cattered here and there in</HI> Germany. <HI>And the Great Ma&s;ter hath his Seat and Re&s;i|dence at</HI> Mergenthal.</P>
<P>They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Cro&s;s. The Dignity of Grand Ma&s;ter is generally held by &s;ome Great and Honorable Per&s;on; and in the Great A&s;&s;embly he ta|keth place of all Bi&s;hops. The pre&s;ent is the Baron of <HI>Am|ring;</HI> and the Grand Ma&s;ter before him was <HI>Leopold Wil|liam,</HI> only Brother to the Emperor <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Third.</P>
<P>From hence we travelled to <HI>Lauterbach,</HI> near which we pa&s;&s;ed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church up|on the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented by Pilgrims, they have made hand&s;ome &s;tone Stairs from the bottom to the top: then to <HI>Rotenburg,</HI> and lodged at <HI>Burgperner,</HI> and the next day by <HI>Schantzbach</HI> we came to <HI>Nurenberg. Rotenburg</HI> is an Imperial City, which &s;ome have likened unto <HI>Jeru&s;alem</HI> for its Situation upon hilly places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near
<PB N="60" REF="33"> the head of the River <HI>Tauber,</HI> which may be accounted the &s;econd River of <HI>Franconia,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Rottingen, Lan|den,</HI> and <HI>Werthaim,</HI> where it runneth into the <HI>Main.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Nurenberg</HI> is the faire&s;t City that I &s;aw in <HI>Germany;</HI> the Hou&s;es mo&s;t of them of Free-&s;tone, very high; and divers of them painted on the out&s;ide, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top; many are of &s;ix or &s;even Stories high. <HI>Der Herr Peller</HI> hath one of the faire&s;t. The City is very populous and full of Trade, although it &s;tands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River. The three be&s;t Churches are the <HI>Ho&s;pital Church,</HI> lately built very fair; St. <HI>Laurence,</HI> which is very large, with two high Steeples in the Front; and St. <HI>Sebald</HI> the be&s;t of the three. The Body of St. <HI>Sebald</HI> being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen, in that place where the Oxen &s;tood &s;till, they buried the Body, and erected this Church in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood, very well carved, and e&s;teemed at a high rate. The Cru|cifix without the Church is very great, and of a black colour: and &s;ome fancy that the <HI>Raht Herrn,</HI> or Magi|&s;trates of the Town, have repo&s;ited a Trea&s;ure within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church &s;o &s;tately, that it may pa&s;s in the fir&s;t rank of <HI>Lutheran</HI> Churches; that Religion being here practi&s;ed in its &s;plendour. The Prie&s;t every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a Sermon. The Town-hou&s;e is well worth the &s;eeing: In it the Hall is &s;pacious, as al&s;o the Chambers, and furni&s;h|ed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and pain|ted with white and gold, green and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the like. There is one Picture of mo&s;t of the Great Per&s;ons in <HI>Germany</HI> entertained in the Great Hall; another of the three Brothers of <HI>Saxony;</HI> one of an Elephant as big as the life; a piece of St. <HI>John</HI> and
<PB N="61" REF="33"> St. <HI>Mark,</HI> and another of St. <HI>Peter</HI> and St. <HI>Paul,</HI> both by <HI>Albert Durer:</HI> but the mo&s;t rare piece is that of <HI>Adam</HI> and <HI>Eve,</HI> by the &s;ame Ma&s;ter, with this In&s;cription:
<Q>Albertus Durer Almang faciebat po&s;t Virginis partum, 1507.</Q> Another excellent one is that of St. <HI>Luke</HI> drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the ble&s;&s;ed Virgin. Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood, and painted over, with this In&s;crip|tion:</P>
<Q><L><HI>Omnia habent ortus &s;uaque incrementa, &s;ed ecce</HI></L>
<L><HI>Quem cernis, nunquam Bos fuit hic, Vitulus.</HI></L></Q>
<P>The Ca&s;tle &s;tandeth upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes a hand&s;ome &s;how: In it are ob&s;ervable a very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Picture, and the Pictures of the Electors; good Night pieces; and one of a man behind a white Curtain tran&s;parent, very well expre&s;&s;ed. The Armour of <HI>Hebbele van Gailinghen</HI> the great Sorcerer is here &s;hown; and in the Wall of the Ca|&s;tle the marks of his Hor&s;es feet, when he leaped from thence over the <HI>Town ditch.</HI></P>
<P>The new Fountain was not then fini&s;hed; but the Sta|tua's in Bra&s;s made for it were excellent; the Sea-Hor&s;es large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life; and <HI>Neptune,</HI> who was to &s;tand on the top, is above three yards and a half high. When I came fir&s;t into this place, I was not a little &s;urprized to behold the fairne&s;s of the Hou&s;es, hand&s;ome Sreets, different Habits, indu&s;trious People, and neatne&s;s in all things, more than I had ob|&s;erved in <HI>German</HI> Cities before; and no place hath grea|ter number of curious Artificers in Steel, Bra&s;s, Ivory,
<PB N="62" REF="34"> Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate; and there are Officers to in&s;pect and enquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfect, and without fraud: they make &s;trong and hand&s;ome Clock|work. The King of <HI>Poland</HI> pre&s;ented the Grand Signi|or with a very noble Clock, who took &s;o much delight in it, that when it required &s;ome mending (the <HI>Turks</HI> be|ing ignorant in Clock-work) he &s;ent it from <HI>Adrianople</HI> as far as <HI>Nurenburg,</HI> to be &s;et in order again.</P>
<P><HI>Gu&s;tavus Adolphus,</HI> King of <HI>Sweden,</HI> was more magnifi|cently received and entertained in this City, than in any other of <HI>Germany;</HI> which &s;o incen&s;ed <HI>Wallen&s;teyn,</HI> that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great &s;poil upon their Territories: But the King of <HI>Sweden</HI> marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards <HI>Lutzen,</HI> where in a bloody Battel he lo&s;t his life.</P>
<P>The River <HI>Pegnitz</HI> runneth through <HI>Nurnberg,</HI> and hath divers Stone Bridges over it; and below the Town, joyning with the River <HI>Rednitz,</HI> runneth into the River <HI>Main</HI> at <HI>Bamberg;</HI> and the <HI>Main</HI> runs at la&s;t into the <HI>Rhine.</HI> The <HI>Reduitz</HI> ari&s;eth at <HI>Wei&s;senberg,</HI> and is not far from the River <HI>Altmul,</HI> which runneth into the <HI>Da|nube,</HI> towards <HI>Regen&s;burg.</HI> Upon this convenience, <HI>Charles</HI> the Great de&s;igned to make a Communication of pa&s;&s;age between the <HI>Danube</HI> and the <HI>Rhine;</HI> and made a <HI>Canale</HI> thirty paces broad between the <HI>Rednitz</HI> and the <HI>Altmul,</HI> to joyn tho&s;e Streams for the commodity of Pa&s;|&s;age by Boat; but after he had proceeded two <HI>German</HI> miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Di|ver&s;ions made him give over that noble De&s;ign, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the <HI>Low-Countries</HI> to <HI>Vienna,</HI> and even unto the <HI>Euxine Sea.</HI></P>
<PB N="63" REF="34">
<P>The <HI>Roman</HI> Lieutenant in <HI>Nero</HI>'s time, had a de&s;ire to unite the River <HI>Soane</HI> and the <HI>Mo&s;ella;</HI> and to make a pa&s;&s;age between the <HI>Mediterranean</HI> and the <HI>German</HI> Oce|an; having been at the mouth of the <HI>Mo&s;ella</HI> by <HI>Coblentz,</HI> and pa&s;&s;ed from <HI>Chaalon</HI> upon the &s;oft and noble River <HI>Araris</HI> or <HI>Soane</HI> unto <HI>Lyon,</HI> I cannot but think the&s;e ve|ry goodly Streams, and fit for &s;uch a purpo&s;e. The pre&s;ent King of <HI>France</HI> hath a de&s;ign to unite the River <HI>Aude</HI> with the <HI>Garonne,</HI> and &s;o to have a pa&s;&s;age by Boat from the <HI>Mediterranean Sea</HI> by <HI>Tholou&s;e</HI> and <HI>Bourdeaux,</HI> into the Ocean. When I travelled in tho&s;e parts, view|ing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult work, and &s;o it proveth: but the King hath proceeded already very far therein.</P>
<P>About four Leagues from <HI>Nurnberg</HI> lyeth <HI>Altdorff,</HI> be|longing unto it, made an Univer&s;ity in the year 1623. con|taining, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The Phy&s;ick Garden is hand&s;ome, and well &s;tocked with Plants, to the number of two thou&s;and. Dr. <HI>Hoffman</HI> the <HI>Botanick</HI> and <HI>Anatomick Profe&s;&s;our,</HI> &s;hew'd me many of the mo&s;t rare of them; and pre&s;ented me with divers. The <HI>Anatomy</HI> School is not large; yet the only one in tho&s;e parts of <HI>Germany:</HI> And they have divers Curio&s;ities pre|&s;erved in it, as the <HI>Skeleton</HI> of a Hart, of a Hor&s;e, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Hor&s;e: And &s;ome Pictures, as one of a <HI>Ninivite,</HI> and another of <HI>Mo&s;es,</HI> which they take to be Ancient. Dr. <HI>Wagen&s;eyl,</HI> Profe&s;&s;our of Law and Hi&s;tory, brother to Captain <HI>Wagen&s;eyl,</HI> who travel|led with me from <HI>Heidelberg,</HI> invited us to lodge at his Hou&s;e, and &s;hew'd me his Library, and all his Rarities and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived in mo&s;t places of <HI>Europe,</HI> and &s;peaks many Lan|guages well; he gave me a piece of the fir&s;t mony that was coined in <HI>Germany.</HI> In the Univer&s;ity Library I
<PB N="64" REF="35"> &s;aw a fair <HI>Hortus Ey&s;teten&s;is,</HI> and <HI>Youngerman</HI>'s Colle|ction of Plants by his own hand.</P>
<P>At <HI>Nurnberg</HI> I met with the Son and the Secretary to the <HI>Holland</HI> Amba&s;&s;ador in <HI>Turky,</HI> who had travelled hi|ther over-land from <HI>Con&s;tantinople,</HI> in their return into the <HI>Low-Countries,</HI> travelling in <HI>Greek</HI> Habits.</P>
<P>From hence I went to <HI>Newmarkt,</HI> a good Town in the upper <HI>Palatinate</HI> belonging to the Duke of <HI>Bavaria,</HI> and the next day through <HI>Heinmaw,</HI> &s;ubject to the Duke of <HI>Newburg,</HI> to <HI>Regensburg.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Rati&s;bona, Regen&s;burg, Augu&s;ta Tiberii, Colonia Quarta|norum,</HI> the chief place of the <HI>Roman</HI> Forces in this limit of the Empire, where the fourth <HI>Italick</HI> Legion had a con&s;tant &s;tation; was made a Colony by <HI>Tiberius</HI> in the year, as &s;ome conceive, of the Pa&s;&s;ion of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour <HI>Arnulphus,</HI> who had a great affection for this place, &s;o plea&s;antly &s;eated, and in a good Country. Here the River <HI>Regen</HI> runs into the <HI>Danube;</HI> from whence it was called <HI>Regen&s;burg.</HI> There are two Bridges, one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of &s;tone of about fifteen Arches; which is the faire&s;t &s;tone Bridge o|ver the <HI>Danube.</HI> It is an Imperial City, but not with|out &s;ome acknowledgment to the Duke of <HI>Bavaria:</HI> And although it be &s;trongly fortified, yet it was taken by the <HI>Swedes</HI> in the <HI>German</HI> wars. There are many fair build|ings in it, both private and publick; and though I am not able to confirm what &s;ome report, that there as many Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in the year; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents: As the Cathedral of St. <HI>Peter,</HI> in the South-&s;ide of which is the Picture of St. <HI>Peter</HI> in a &s;hip; and on the North a|other of the Apo&s;tles fir&s;t Mi&s;&s;ion. In the <HI>Piazza</HI> &s;tands a neat little Church, the Convent of St. <HI>Paul,</HI> founded
<PB N="65" REF="35"> by St. <HI>Wolfgangus</HI> Bi&s;hop of this place, the Convent of St. <HI>Emerammus</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Rati&s;bone,</HI> a Saint of great Ve|neration here, though but of little mention or name in o|ther parts. The name of <HI>Albertus Magnus,</HI> Bi&s;hop of this place, hath al&s;o added unto the Fame of <HI>Regen&s;burg.</HI></P>
<P>But that which chiefly promoteth its lu&s;tre, is the General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this City, and is not to be called in any part out of <HI>Germany;</HI> and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of &s;uch a noble Convention, as are the E&s;tates of <HI>Germany.</HI> The Vice-Mar&s;hal taketh care to provide Lodgings re&s;pe|ctively to their per&s;ons, and &s;eeth that all things be brought hither, and at a ju&s;t price; that the Hall or Place of A&s;&s;embly be furni&s;hed and adorned &s;utably to the dignity of the Per&s;ons convened, and hath an e&s;peci|al eye and regard towards the Publick &s;afety. By this Convention the great Concerns of <HI>Germany</HI> are much &s;ecured, and their peace and quiet E&s;tabli&s;hed. Wherein <HI>Germany</HI> &s;eems to have a better advantage than <HI>Italy;</HI> For <HI>Italy</HI> being likewi&s;e divided into many Dominions and Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council, whereby to proceed for their Publick &s;afety: Which makes them often &s;o divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger, and when they mo&s;t need a joynt Combination.</P>
<P>I entred the notable River <HI>Danubius</HI> at this place, which hath already run a good cour&s;e, and pa&s;&s;ed by ma|ny fair Towns or Cities; as the large City of <HI>Ulme</HI> in <HI>Swabenland,</HI> where it beginneth to be Navigable; as al&s;o <HI>Donawert, Neuburg,</HI> and <HI>Ingol&s;tadt,</HI> and hath already received the con&s;iderable River of <HI>Licus</HI> or <HI>Leck,</HI> where|by the Commodities of that great Trading City of <HI>Aug&s;|burg</HI> are brought into it. When I fir&s;t embarked at <HI>Re|gen&s;burg,</HI> I thought I might have taken leave of the <HI>Da|nube</HI>
<PB N="66" REF="36"> not far below <HI>Vienna,</HI> but an opportunity made me &s;ee this great Stream beyond <HI>Belgrade,</HI> as I have declared in another Account of my Travels.</P>
<P>The fir&s;t day we pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Thonaw&s;teyn,</HI> where there is a Ca&s;tle &s;eated upon a high Rock, and came to <HI>Pfeter</HI> or <HI>Vetera Ca&s;tra</HI> of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the <HI>Danube</HI> are generally painted black and white, are flat bottom'd, and broad at the Head and Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle; and the Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a &s;wift Cour&s;e.</P>
<P>The next day we came to <HI>Straubing,</HI> a hand&s;ome walled Town, belonging to the Duke of <HI>Bavaria;</HI> the Streets are &s;treight; and there is a Tower in the Market-place, painted all over with green and gold-colour: There is al&s;o a Bridge of wood over the <HI>Danube.</HI> We pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Swartz</HI> in the Afternoon, where the Church is &s;eated up|on a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at <HI>Deckendorff,</HI> where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into the <HI>Danube</HI> that con&s;iderable River <HI>I&s;er,</HI> or <HI>I&s;ara,</HI> having pa&s;&s;ed by divers con&s;iderable Towns; as <HI>Land&s;hut, Fri&s;ing,</HI> and <HI>M&uuml;nchen,</HI> the Seat of <HI>Ferdinan|dus Maria,</HI> Elector of <HI>Bavaria,</HI> Great Steward of the Empire, and at pre&s;ent the fir&s;t of the Secular Electors, and he is to take place immediately after the King of <HI>Bo|hemia,</HI> it being &s;o concluded on at the Treaty of <HI>Mun&s;ter,</HI> where <HI>Maximilian</HI> Duke of <HI>Bavaria</HI> was allowed to hold the Elector&s;hip, which was confirmed upon him by the Emperour <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Second, when he excluded <HI>Frederick</HI> the Fifth, Count <HI>Palatine,</HI> and in lieu hereof there was an eighth Elector&s;hip erected for the <HI>Palatinate</HI> Family, who al&s;o, if the <HI>Bavarian</HI> branch doth fail, are to re-enter into their ancient Elector&s;hip, and the other newly erected is to be aboli&s;hed.</P>
<PB N="67" REF="36">
<P><HI>Thur&s;day, November</HI> the fifteenth, we came by <HI>Wil&s;ho|ven</HI> to <HI>Pa&s;&s;aw, Patavia,</HI> or <HI>Boiodurum,</HI> a long and no|ble City in the lower <HI>Bavaria,</HI> or <HI>Bayern,</HI> made up of three Towns, <HI>Ilt&s;tadt, Pa&s;&s;aw,</HI> and <HI>Inn&s;tadt,</HI> at the con|currence of the River <HI>Inne,</HI> the <HI>Danube,</HI> and the <HI>Iltz.</HI> As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce; &s;o is this accounted ancient, as being a <HI>Roman</HI> Co|lony, and the place of the <HI>Ca&s;tra Batava</HI> in old times.</P>
<P>The Church of St. <HI>Stephen</HI> is &s;tately, be&s;ides other fair Churches. The Bi&s;hop, who is Lord of the City, hath a &s;trong Palace upon a Hill; his Revenues are large, and be&s;ides what he po&s;&s;e&s;&s;eth hereabouts, he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at <HI>Bleyberg</HI> in <HI>Carinthia.</HI> This place had lately &s;uffered much by fire; but a good part was rebuilt, and very fairly after the <HI>Italian</HI> manner: So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten con&s;iderable Cities, which are upon the <HI>Danube,</HI> accounting from <HI>Ulme</HI> unto <HI>Bel|grade,</HI> as <HI>Ulme, Ingol&s;tadt, Rati&s;bone, Pa&s;&s;aw, Lintz, Vienna, Pre&s;burg, Strigonium, Buda, Belgrade;</HI> all which from <HI>Rati&s;bone</HI> I had the opportunity to &s;ee be|fore the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over a|gain&s;t the great Church at <HI>Pa&s;&s;aw,</HI> which was then re|pairing, I &s;aw a va&s;t Head cut in &s;tone, the Mouth whereof was two &s;pans wide, and the re&s;t proportion|able. The River <HI>Iltz,</HI> which runneth in here from the North, is con&s;iderable for the Pearls which are found in it; and the noble River <HI>Inne</HI> or <HI>Oenus,</HI> from the South, is the greate&s;t River which hath yet entred the <HI>Danube;</HI> having pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>In&s;brug,</HI> and taken in the River <HI>Saltz,</HI> upon which &s;tands <HI>Saltzburg;</HI> and a|ri&s;ing in the <HI>Alpes</HI> in &s;uch a high Country as <HI>Tirolis,</HI>
<PB N="68" REF="37"> it runneth in here with a great force, and addeth much unto the &s;wiftne&s;s of the <HI>Danube.</HI></P>
<P>Upon the Sixteenth we came to <HI>Lintz,</HI> the chief City in the higher <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> not very great, but as neat and hand&s;ome a City as mo&s;t in <HI>Germany.</HI> There is in it a very great Market-place, with never a bad Hou&s;e in it, the whole Town built of a very white Free-&s;tone; and the Ca&s;tle upon the Hill is of Modern Building, and very large. There is al&s;o a Bridge o|ver the <HI>Danube.</HI> The Imperial Forces rendezvou&s;ed here when <HI>Solyman</HI> came to <HI>Vienna.</HI> This was al&s;o be&s;ieged by the Pea&s;ants of <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> in the time of <HI>Fer|dinand</HI> the Second; they having got a Body together of Forty thou&s;and men, and many pieces of Ordnance, but were &s;toutly repul&s;ed after many A&s;&s;aults, and at la&s;t overcome by <HI>Papenheim.</HI> Not far below <HI>Lintz</HI> the River <HI>Draun</HI> enters the <HI>Danube;</HI> this cometh from the <HI>Gemundner Sea,</HI> or <HI>Lacus Felicis,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Lam|pack, Weltz,</HI> and other Towns, and hath a noted Cataract or Fall of Waters.</P>
<P>The next day we pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Ens, Ani&s;ia,</HI> upon the River <HI>Ani&s;ius,</HI> or <HI>Ona&s;us,</HI> which taking its original in the Borders of <HI>Saltzburgland,</HI> runs into the <HI>Da|nube,</HI> and divides the higher from the lower <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> having received into it &s;elf the River <HI>Saltza,</HI> upon which &s;tandeth <HI>Cell,</HI> or <HI>Maria Cell,</HI> a place of the greate&s;t Pilgrimage in <HI>Au&s;tria.</HI> Near this Town are many <HI>Roman</HI> Coyns and Antiquities found, and <HI>Lauria|cum</HI> &s;tood of old, a <HI>Roman</HI> Garri&s;on, and afterwards a Bi&s;hop's See: we came to a Village on the North &s;hoar of the <HI>Danube,</HI> called <HI>Greim,</HI> where the <HI>Graff von Leichten&s;teyn</HI> hath a Hou&s;e. A little below this are two dangerous pa&s;&s;ages in the River; the one cal|led the <HI>Strudel,</HI> where the River running among&s;t va&s;t
<PB REF="37">
<FIGURE>
<FIGDESC>depiction of two flat boats or barges near a whirlpool in a river; on the left bank is a castle ruin; on the right bank is a church; in the background is a cross on top of a mountain</FIGDESC>
<HEAD>The Whirle-poole in the Danvbe.</HEAD>
<BYLINE>I. Olivor Fe</BYLINE>
</FIGURE>
<PB REF="38">
<PB N="69" REF="38"> Rocks, &s;ome under water, and &s;ome above, the waves are broken with great force, and the Current is ra|pid, foaming, and trouble&s;ome; and &s;ome skill is re|quired to pa&s;s between the Ledges of Rocks which are under water, and when the water is low the pa&s;|&s;age is very difficult. The other is the <HI>Wurbel,</HI> or a kind of a Whirlpool, where the water turneth about with great force, being hindred in its direct Cour&s;e by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high craggy Rock &s;tands a large Cro&s;s, and at the foot a little Church, dedicated to St. <HI>Nicholas,</HI> who is Patron of this dangerous place, and is believed to take peculiar care of &s;uch as pa&s;s this way, and therefore a little Boat comes to you as &s;oon as you are out of danger, and receives what Acknowledgment you plea&s;e, or what perhaps you may have promi&s;ed to give, when you were in &s;ome fear. This night we lodged at <HI>Ips, Ip&s;ium,</HI> or <HI>Ibi&s;&s;a,</HI> a Town on the South-&s;ide of the <HI>Da|nube:</HI> over again&s;t it lieth <HI>Be&s;enbeug,</HI> or <HI>U&s;bium Ptolo|maei.</HI> Two <HI>German</HI> miles below <HI>Ips</HI> &s;tands <HI>Pechlarn,</HI> conceived to be <HI>Arlape</HI> in former times; and here the River <HI>Erlaph</HI> entreth the <HI>Danube:</HI> A mile and a half below this lies <HI>Melcke, Nomale,</HI> or <HI>Mea dilecta,</HI> in former days the Seat of the Marque&s;&s;es of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> until St. <HI>Leopold</HI> removed to <HI>Kalenburg,</HI> and his Suc|ce&s;&s;ours to <HI>Vienna.</HI> The Town lieth at length upon the South-&s;ide of the River; but the noble Cloi&s;ter of <HI>Benedictines,</HI> which taketh place of any other in <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> &s;tands upon a Hill which over-looks the Town, the River, and the Country about; is richly endowed, and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Per|&s;ons, and the Tomb of St. <HI>Colman,</HI> much honoured in the&s;e parts. We dined at <HI>Steyn,</HI> where there is a Bridge over the <HI>Danube.</HI> Near to this lieth <HI>Crembs,</HI> another
<PB N="70" REF="39"> walled Town; and over the water <HI>Mautern;</HI> and not far from it the rich Convent of <HI>Ketwein;</HI> After this the River <HI>Trai&s;n,</HI> or <HI>Tragi&s;ama,</HI> cometh in from the South. Having pa&s;&s;ed by the noted Town St. <HI>Pold,</HI> or St. <HI>Hippolitus,</HI> we lodged this Night at St. <HI>Eldorff,</HI> and the next day pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Thuln, Stockeran,</HI> and <HI>Cloi&s;ter Neuburg,</HI> to <HI>Vienna.</HI></P>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="account">
<PB N="71" REF="39">
<HEAD>THE DESCRIPTION OF VIENNA.</HEAD>
<P><HI>_VIENNA,</HI> or <HI>Wien,</HI> which the <HI>Turks</HI> call <HI>Berch,</HI> is the chief City of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing from the Latitude of <HI>Paris.</HI> The old Seat of the Dukes of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> and for a long time of the Emperours of <HI>Germany.</HI> Ac|cording to ancient account it &s;tandeth in <HI>Pannonia &s;upe|rior,</HI> the Bounds of <HI>Pannonia</HI> extending unto <HI>Kalemburg,</HI> or <HI>Mons Cetius,</HI> five or &s;ix miles We&s;tward of <HI>Vienna;</HI> beyond which &s;till We&s;tward all that lieth between that Hill and the great River <HI>Oenus,</HI> or <HI>Inne,</HI> which runneth into the <HI>Danube</HI> at <HI>Pa&s;&s;aw,</HI> or <HI>Ca&s;tra Batava,</HI> was anci|ently called <HI>Noricum.</HI></P>
<P>It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the <HI>Romans,</HI> and called <HI>Vindobona,</HI> as the Learned <HI>Petrus Lambecius</HI> hath at large declared, where the <HI>Cla&s;&s;is I&s;trica</HI>
<PB N="72" REF="40"> &s;ometimes lay, and the tenth <HI>German Legion</HI> had its &s;ta|tion; all this &s;hoar or &s;ide of the <HI>Danube</HI> being famous for the actions of <HI>Roman</HI> Emperours again&s;t the <HI>Marco|manni</HI> and <HI>Quadi,</HI> who po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ed the Country on the o|ther &s;ide of the River, and e&s;pecially for the wars of <HI>Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Philo&s;ophus,</HI> who notably de|feated tho&s;e Nations, and who, as <HI>Aurelius Victor</HI> (who was Governour of <HI>Sirmium</HI> in <HI>Pannonia inferior,</HI> in the time of <HI>Con&s;tantius</HI>) affirmeth, fell &s;ick at <HI>Carnuntum,</HI> now <HI>Petronel,</HI> and died at <HI>Vindobona,</HI> now <HI>Vienna.</HI> And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, be&s;ides what <HI>Wolfgangus Lazius</HI> hath delivered, not many years &s;ince &s;ome Anti|quities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging &s;till on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a &s;mall Gold Coyn, a Gla&s;s Urn enclo&s;ed in a Bra&s;s one, an Iron Knife like a <HI>Sice&s;pita,</HI> or Knife u&s;ed about Sacrifices, a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, &s;hut up with a Gol|den cover at both ends, wherein was an In&s;cription in &s;trange Characters: Not far from the Sepulchral Monu|ment were found a Head in Bra&s;s, a Brazen <HI>Patera,</HI> Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Ve&s;&s;els, and a Copper Coyn of <HI>Antoninus Caracalla.</HI> The writing in the Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned <HI>Lambecius</HI> to be the old <HI>Pannonian</HI> Character, and that this might be the Monument of &s;ome <HI>Pannonian</HI> Prie&s;t in the days of <HI>Caracalla,</HI> who, as good Authors deliver, &s;pent &s;ome time about the&s;e parts.</P>
<P>It is &s;eated on the South-&s;ide of the <HI>Danube,</HI> on the <HI>ripa Romana,</HI> that &s;ide neare&s;t to <HI>Rome,</HI> and many <HI>Roman</HI> Colonies, according to the u&s;ual po&s;ition of <HI>Roman</HI> Sta|tions, both upon this River and the <HI>Rhine,</HI> as may be ex|emplified in <HI>Colen, Bonna, Andarnach, Coblentz, Ments,
<PB N="73" REF="40"> Wormes, Spier,</HI> and <HI>Stra&s;burg.</HI> And in like manner in the old <HI>Roman</HI> Stations, on the South or <HI>Roman</HI> &s;ide of the <HI>Danube,</HI> which were in no &s;mall number in or near the <HI>Au&s;trian</HI> &s;hoar, as <HI>Carnuntum,</HI> or <HI>Petronel, Vi&s;chmund,</HI> or <HI>Aquinoctium, Eber&s;dorff,</HI> or <HI>Ala Nova, Melck,</HI> or <HI>No|male, Arlape,</HI> or <HI>Pechlarne, Lentia,</HI> or <HI>Lintz;</HI> for here|by they better &s;ecured their Conque&s;ts, and hindred the incur&s;ions of the Barbarians before them.</P>
<P>It is not &s;eated upon the main &s;tream of the <HI>Danube,</HI> but by a branch thereof; for the River running through a low Country; it is divided into &s;everal Streams, and maketh many I&s;lands. A &s;mall River named <HI>Wien,</HI> run|neth by the Ea&s;t part of this City, and entreth the <HI>Da|nube</HI> below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt, yet &s;ometimes low and very &s;hallow, &s;o as I have &s;tepped over it; &s;ome will have it to give the Name unto this Ci|ty: it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a di&s;tinct apprehen&s;ion of <HI>Vienna,</HI> we mu&s;t con&s;ider the City and Suburbs thereof; the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Hou&s;es, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommo|dations at large.</P>
<P>The City it &s;elf is that walled and fortified part, de|&s;igned not only for convenience of Habitation, but al&s;o to &s;u&s;tain a Siege, or any Attack from the <HI>Turk,</HI> and is now &s;eparated from the Suburbs by a fair <HI>E&s;planade,</HI> or open Ground, above a Musket &s;hot over. The Hou&s;es near the wall were pulled down &s;ince the la&s;t Fortificati|on in the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> war, when they were in &s;ome fear that the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Forces about <HI>Gran</HI> and <HI>New-heu&s;el,</HI> would move towards them. It is fortified <HI>a la moderna,</HI> with ten Ba&s;tions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch, into which they can let the <HI>Danube:</HI> and with two other Ba&s;tions towards the water, on that part of the River
<PB N="74" REF="41"> which lieth on the North-&s;ide of the Town. The Ba&s;tions are large; upon one of them I &s;aw Count <HI>Souches</HI> mu&s;ter a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep, into which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, le&s;t they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls, the one old and inward, little con&s;iderable at pre&s;ent, built at fir&s;t with the ran&s;ome of our King <HI>Richard</HI> the Fir&s;t, who in his return from the Holy War, was detained Pri&s;oner by the Duke of <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> upon the <HI>20th</HI> of <HI>Decem|ber,</HI> 1192. The <HI>Au&s;trians</HI> pretending they had received &s;ome affront from the King at <HI>Joppa,</HI> and that he had taken down the En&s;ign and Banner of Duke <HI>Leopold</HI> in a con|temptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Free|&s;tone, &s;o well built, as to render this City one of the mo&s;t con&s;iderable fortified places in <HI>Europe.</HI> The <HI>E&s;pla|nade</HI> gently de&s;cendeth from the Town for three hundred Paces; there are very few Out-works.</P>
<P>It is very uncertain who was the fir&s;t Builder of <HI>Vien|na,</HI> and after it had been long built, it ran to decay a|gain for Four hundred years together, till <HI>Henry</HI> the Fir&s;t, Duke of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> in the year 1158. did much re|pair it; and the ran&s;ome afterwards of King <HI>Richard</HI> beautified it.</P>
<P>The whole compa&s;s, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Circuit, but the City it &s;elf, which is walled in, may be about three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, for the bigne&s;s of the place, as mo&s;t of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold &s;o many Nations in it, as <HI>Turks, Tartars, Graecians, Tran&s;ylvanians, Sclavonians, Hunga|rians, Croatians, Spaniards, Italians, French, Germans, Polanders, &amp;c.</HI> all in their proper Habits.</P>
<PB N="75" REF="41">
<P>The chief Gates are &s;ix: 1. <HI>Stubnthor,</HI> or the <HI>Stuben Gate</HI> towards the Ea&s;t. 2. <HI>Karnterthor,</HI> or the <HI>Gate of Carinthia</HI> towards the South. 3. <HI>Burgthor,</HI> the <HI>Town Gate,</HI> or <HI>Ca&s;tle Gate. 4. Schottenthor,</HI> or the <HI>Scotch Gate. 5. Newthor,</HI> or the <HI>Newgate;</HI> the&s;e two la&s;t to|wards the We&s;t: And 6. the <HI>Gate of the red Tower</HI> to|wards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the <HI>Danube:</HI> and towards the water &s;ide, there is al&s;o a Port by the Emperours palace, and a Cloy&s;ter or Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called <HI>Himmel port,</HI> or the <HI>Gate of Heaven.</HI> The five fir&s;t of the&s;e Gates are vaulted and arched with long pa&s;&s;ages through the Town|wall, and have good Bridges of Wood, with Draw|bridges to pa&s;s over the Town ditch: The &s;ixth is un|der a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the <HI>Danube:</HI> For that River running here in a flat low Country, divi|deth its &s;treams, &s;o that to pa&s;s it quite over, there are at pre&s;ent &s;even long Bridges made up of many thou&s;and Tree laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges. There is al&s;o a Bridge within the City of <HI>Vi|enna,</HI> called the <HI>Hochbrug,</HI> or <HI>High-bridge,</HI> which is made by the cro&s;&s;ing of two Streets at equal Angles; the ground of one &s;treet being as high as the tops of the Hou|&s;es of the other, &s;o that to continue it, they were for|ced to build a Bridge or Arch in the <HI>Lower-&s;treet,</HI> to let the upper pa&s;s over it.</P>
<P>The City is fairly built of &s;tone, and well paved; ma|ny Hou&s;es are of &s;ix &s;tories high; they are &s;omewhat flat roofed after the <HI>Italian</HI> way; the Streets are not narrow, but the compa&s;s of ground will not admit them to be very broad; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground; their Cellars are very deep. To &s;a|tisfie my curio&s;ity, I went into &s;ome of them, and found four Cellars one under another; they were arched, and
<PB N="76" REF="42"> had two pair of Stairs to de&s;cend into them. Some have an open &s;pace in the middle of each roof, to let the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the lowe&s;t an <HI>adit</HI> or <HI>tube</HI> unto the top, to let the Air in and out from the &s;treet, &s;omewhat after the manner of the Mines.</P>
<P><HI>Aenaeas Sylvius,</HI> about two hundred years &s;ince, com|mending the City of <HI>Nurnburg,</HI> among other expre&s;&s;ions lets fall this: <HI>Cuperent Scotorum Reges tam egregi&egrave; quam mediocres Cives</HI> Norinbergen&s;es <HI>habitare.</HI> The Kings of <HI>Scots</HI> would be content to dwell &s;o well as the middle &s;ort of Citizens of <HI>Nurnburg.</HI> I mu&s;t confe&s;s, when I fir&s;t entred <HI>Nurnburg,</HI> I was much &s;urpri&s;ed to &s;ee &s;uch a noble, large, &s;pruce, rich, and well built City: But <HI>Vi|enna</HI> doth al&s;o de&s;erve the commendation which he af|fordeth it: <HI>Ubi Palatia digna Regibus &amp; Templa quae mi|rari</HI> Italia <HI>po&s;&s;it.</HI> Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and Churches, which <HI>Italy</HI> may admire. And this being &s;po|ken &s;o long ago, is now better verified of it.</P>
<P>The Imperial Palace is very Noble, Sub&s;tantial, and Princely furni&s;hed, con&s;i&s;ting chiefly of two Courts; the one very large, the other le&s;&s;er, wherein the Emperour lodgeth. At the Entrance over the Gate, are &s;et in Ca|pital Letters the five Vowels, <HI>A, E, I, O, U;</HI> whereof the Phancies of men make various Interpretations. That which was told me was this, <HI>Au&s;triae e&s;t imperare Orbi Univer&s;o;</HI> or, <HI>Alles Erdreich I&s;t O&s;terreich Unterthan, i. e.</HI> All the World is &s;ubject to <HI>Au&s;tria.</HI> Although I could hardly believe this was the fir&s;t intended meaning. Be|&s;ides the&s;e two Courts is another &s;mall one, where &s;ome of the Pages lodge. I took notice of a large rough <HI>Ja&s;pis</HI> &s;tone lying upon the ground, little regarded or ob&s;erved: it is about nine foot Diameter; it was pre&s;ented unto the Emperour by the Archbi&s;hop of <HI>Saltzburg,</HI> who&s;e Coun|try affordeth notable Quarries, and &s;tones of many &s;orts;
<PB REF="42">
<FIGURE>
<FIGDESC>depiction of the Mariens&auml;ule or Column of Our Lady in Am Hof, Vienna, featuring Mary and four angels</FIGDESC>
<HEAD>A noble copper Columne Standing before the Ie&s;uites College in Vienna</HEAD>
<BYLINE>Iohn Oliuer Fecit</BYLINE>
</FIGURE>
<PB REF="43">
<PB N="77" REF="43"> a little piece of it poli&s;hed, affordeth fine yellow, red, black, and white Veins. The Palace of the Count <HI>de Draun,</HI> and that which Count <HI>Rothal</HI> hath lately built and nobly furni&s;hed, are very con&s;iderable; with many others.</P>
<P>There are al&s;o many fair Churches, rich Convents, and Conventual Churches; as that of the <HI>Carmelites,</HI> of the <HI>Franci&s;cans,</HI> of the <HI>Benedictines,</HI> of St. <HI>Nicholas;</HI> In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepul|chral Monuments of Count <HI>Strozzi</HI> and Cardinal <HI>Ha|rach.</HI> The <HI>Dominican</HI> Convent is very fair. The <HI>Au|gu&s;tines</HI> have a large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy Hou&s;e at <HI>Loretto;</HI> upon the top of which hang the Colours ta|ken from the <HI>Turks</HI> and <HI>Tartars,</HI> many of which En&s;igns are not &s;quare like ours, but made E&s;cucheon-wi&s;e, &s;ome fil|led with Circles, wherein are expre&s;&s;ed half Moons. The <HI>Je&s;uites</HI> Colledges are large, who &s;eldome fail of noble Convents, e&s;pecially in places where they have &s;o good footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges openeth into a fair <HI>Piazza,</HI> in the middle whereof &s;tands a large and high compo&s;ite Column of Copper upon a Pe|de&s;tal of white &s;tone, with four Angels with E&s;cucheons, and on the top the ble&s;&s;ed Virgin; In&s;criptions al&s;o, in which the Emperour dedicates <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> unto her Patro|nage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the Town-hou&s;e is, there is a hand&s;ome <HI>Statua</HI> of Ju&s;tice in Copper.</P>
<P>I could not but ob&s;erve the <HI>Scotch</HI> Church and Cloy|&s;ter, which gave al&s;o the name unto the <HI>Scotch</HI> Gate of the City, becau&s;e I &s;omewhat wondered how the <HI>Scots</HI> in old time &s;hould be &s;o con&s;iderable in this place, but I found by Information, and the Account of <HI>Lazius</HI> and <HI>Matthaeus Merian</HI> in <HI>High-dutch,</HI> that this Convent was in
<PB N="78" REF="44"> former times a great Receptacle for the <HI>Scots</HI> in their long Pilgrimage unto <HI>Jeru&s;alem,</HI> founded and endowed by Duke <HI>Henry</HI> the Fir&s;t, in memory of St. <HI>Gregory:</HI> and it may &s;eem le&s;s &s;trange that the <HI>Scots</HI> &s;hould have a Convent here, and be numerous in the&s;e parts in former Ages, if we con&s;ider that St. <HI>Colman,</HI> one of the Saints of the greate&s;t Veneration in this Country was a <HI>Scotchman,</HI> and &s;aid to be of the Royal Blood of <HI>Scotland,</HI> who, in his pa&s;&s;age to <HI>Jeru&s;alem</HI> was murdered by the <HI>Baurs</HI> or Coun|try people at <HI>Stockerau,</HI> four <HI>German</HI> miles from <HI>Vienna,</HI> and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorrupted for a year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and honourably interred near <HI>Stockerau;</HI> but by <HI>Meginhard</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Aich&s;tadt</HI> it was tran&s;lated unto <HI>Melk,</HI> and af|terwards &s;ent into <HI>Hungary,</HI> and his Head kept a long time at <HI>Stullwei&s;&s;enburg,</HI> or <HI>Alba Regalis,</HI> according to the Account which is here given of this Saint.</P>
<P>The Church of St. <HI>Peter</HI> is al&s;o con&s;iderable, not for its Splendour but Antiquity, as being accounted the ol|de&s;t in the City, &s;tanding in a place where in old time there &s;tood an Altar in honour of <HI>Domitian,</HI> called <HI>Ara Flaviana.</HI> In this Church lieth the Body of that famous and learned Per&s;on <HI>Wolfgangus Lazius,</HI> with this Epitaph or In&s;cription:</P>
<P><HI>Magnifico Nobili Clari&s;&s;imo atque &s;umm&acirc; eruditione or|nati&s;&s;imo viro Domino</HI> Wolfgango Latzio Vien. <HI>Philo&s;o|phiae atque Medicinae Doctori &amp; Profe&s;&s;ori Primario, Ce|leberrimi Archigymna&s;ii</HI> Viennen&s;is <HI>Rectori &amp; Superinten|denti</HI> Cae&s;areo, <HI>&amp; eju&s;dem Sacrae</HI> Cae&s;areae <HI>Maje&s;t.</HI> Fer|dinandi <HI>Sancti&s;&s;imae memoriae Con&s;iliario &amp; Hi&s;torico Pe|riti&s;&s;imo, defuncto Anno Domini</HI> MDLXXXVI.</P>
<PB N="79" REF="44">
<P>In the Church of the <HI>Capucines</HI> Convent, are interred the Emperour <HI>Matthias</HI> and his Empre&s;s, and the Em|pre&s;s <HI>Maria,</HI> wife to <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, cho&s;e to be buried in a Church of this poor Order. And the <HI>Capucines</HI> not ad|mitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are erected worthy &s;o great an Emperour, and &s;uch Empre&s;&s;es.</P>
<P>But the Cathedral Church of St. <HI>Stephen,</HI> containeth divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Per&s;ons, and is a large &s;tately Building, but &s;omewhat dark by rea&s;on of the thick painted Gla&s;s: not covered with Lead, but with Tiles of wood, which is the only blemi&s;h thereof, yet makes a good &s;how. The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable, as being high, large, &s;trong, and hand&s;ome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire &s;tands a Cro&s;s under a Star and half Moon, according to the Figure I have el&s;ewhere &s;et down, which the People think to be of Gold, or at lea&s;t very well gilded: and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whiti&s;h.</P>
<P>They have this Account how the&s;e came fir&s;t to be &s;et up in this place: That when <HI>Solyman</HI> the Magnificent be|&s;ieged <HI>Vienna,</HI> perceiving the Forces in the City to be ob&s;tinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple a|bout their ears: But &s;ome of the <HI>Ba&s;&s;a's</HI> and great Com|manders, adverti&s;ing him how unprofitable a bu&s;ine&s;s it would prove, and withal when he took the City, what an honour it would be unto him to have &s;uch a Noble Py|ramid in his Dominions: He &s;ent word into the Town, That he was willing to &s;pare the Steeple, upon condition that they would &s;et up the half Moon and Star (the <HI>Tur|ki&s;h</HI> Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned An|&s;wer that they would, if he would &s;end the &s;ame
<PB N="80" REF="45"> unto them, which he did, and they placed it where it &s;tandeth.</P>
<P>This Spire hath the large&s;t Crockets I have ob&s;erved in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spire of <HI>Land&s;hute</HI> in <HI>Bavaria,</HI> is accounted the highe&s;t in <HI>Germany;</HI> that of <HI>Stra&s;burg</HI> the neate&s;t and faire&s;t; and this of <HI>Vienna</HI> the large&s;t and &s;tronge&s;t. And therefore it is no wonder that when the Amba&s;&s;adours of <HI>Bo&s;na</HI> formerly came unto <HI>Vienna,</HI> they &s;o often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly &s;aid that all the mony in their Country was not &s;ufficient to have built it.</P>
<P>This Steeple is accounted about four hundred &s;ixty and five foot high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight &s;teps. Be&s;ides other Hills, I could &s;ee <HI>Haimburger</HI> Hill within two miles of <HI>Pre&s;burg,</HI> and a great part of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> which the long Cour&s;e of the <HI>Da|nube</HI> rendred very plea&s;ant and delightful unto the eye. In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this pro&s;pect, there is a Clock, who&s;e Ca&s;e being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning, and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extingui&s;h the fire, and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand. There is al&s;o an In&s;trument of wood, or wooden Bells or Hammers, which they make u&s;e of from <HI>Good|friday</HI> till <HI>Ea&s;ter-&s;unday,</HI> all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permit no Bells to ring.</P>
<P>At one of the doors of the Church there is a &s;tone pla|ced in the wall, which is generally conceived to be one of the &s;tones wherewith St. <HI>Stephen</HI> was &s;toned. It &s;eem|ed to me &s;ome kind of pebble, and is worn and poli&s;hed by the hands of the people, who when they enter at that door, do touch it with their fingers. I was al&s;o &s;hewed
<PB REF="45">
<FIGURE>
<FIGDESC>depiction of St Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna</FIGDESC>
<HEAD>The Cathedrall Church of S.^t Stephen in Vienna</HEAD>
</FIGURE>
<PB REF="46">
<PB N="81" REF="46"> one of the &s;tones which killed St. <HI>Steven</HI> at St. <HI>Sernine,</HI> or St. <HI>Saturnine</HI>'s Church in <HI>Tholou&s;e</HI> in <HI>France,</HI> which is a Church abounding with Relique-Rarities, and where they al&s;o think they have the Bodies of &s;even of the A|po&s;tles, of St. <HI>George,</HI> of our King St. <HI>Edmund,</HI> and of forty Saints.</P>
<P>In this Church of St. <HI>Stephen,</HI> be&s;ides many Monu|ments of great Princes and famous Per&s;ons, divers learn|ed men have Sepulchral In&s;criptions; as <HI>Johannes Faber Bi&s;hop of Vienna; Johannes Cu&s;pinianus,</HI> and <HI>Seba&s;tianus Tengnagelius,</HI> formerly Library-keeper, Hi&s;toriogra|pher, and Coun&s;ellor to the Emperour, an extraordina|ry learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages, as the In&s;cription delivers; as <HI>Hebrew, Syriack, Chaldee, Per&s;ian, Arabick, Turki&s;h, Aethiopick, Greek, Latin, Italian, French, Spani&s;h, German, Belgick,</HI> and <HI>Eng|li&s;h.</HI></P>
<P>The Univer&s;ity of <HI>Vienna</HI> is al&s;o remarkable, if we con&s;sider the Antiquity thereof, the number of Scholars, their cour&s;e of Studies, their accommodations, privi|ledges and advancements. This is &s;aid to have been be|gun by <HI>Albertus</HI> the Third, above three hundred years pa&s;t; and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrowed from the Univer&s;ity of <HI>Paris,</HI> and the Students were di&s;tingui&s;hed into four Divi&s;ions or Nations; who, be&s;ides the General, have their particular Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the <HI>Cla&s;&s;is</HI> of <HI>Au&s;trians,</HI> Nations of the <HI>Rhine, Hungarians,</HI> and <HI>Saxons.</HI></P>
<P>In the <HI>Au&s;trian</HI> Divi&s;ion were contained the <HI>Friulians,</HI> all of the Dioce&s;e of <HI>Trent,</HI> all <HI>Italy,</HI> with the other Pro|vinces beyond the Mountains. <GAP DESC="illegible" RESP="KEYERS" EXTENT="1 span"> <HI>vian</HI> the <HI>Cla&s;&s;is</HI> of the <HI>Rhine</HI> were comprehended <HI>Sue|<GAP DESC="illegible" RESP="KEYERS" EXTENT="5 letters">, Al&s;atians, Franconians, Ha&s;&s;ians,</HI> d all the Pro|vinces
<PB N="82" REF="47"> to the South-we&s;t, as <HI>France, Spain, Navarre, Holland, Brabant.</HI></P>
<P>In the third <HI>Cla&s;&s;is,</HI> or <HI>Natio Hungariae,</HI> were contain|ed <HI>Hungarians, Bohemians, Polonians, Moravians, Scla|vonians,</HI> all that &s;peak the <HI>Sclavonian</HI> Tongue, and al&s;o <HI>Germans.</HI></P>
<P>To the <HI>Cla&s;&s;is,</HI> or <HI>Natio Saxonum,</HI> were reduced <HI>Sax|ons, We&s;tphalians, Fri&s;landers, Turingians, Mi&s;nians, Brandenburgers, Pru&s;&s;ians. Livonians, Lu&s;atians, Pome|ranians,</HI> with the <HI>Ultramarine</HI> Kingdoms of <HI>England, Scotland, Ireland, Sweden, Norway,</HI> and <HI>Denmark.</HI></P>
<P>The&s;e Divi&s;ions take up all the Nations of <HI>Europe;</HI> and indeed there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Contentions and Differences the &s;everal <HI>Cla&s;&s;es</HI> will hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy again&s;t each other, but will all unite and hold together in differ|ences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen &s;ometimes unto an high degree.</P>
<P>They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge: and I met with few who had any good in&s;ight in new <HI>Phi|lo&s;ophy;</HI> but there are many good <HI>Philologers,</HI> and are well ver&s;ed in Languages, Hi&s;tory and Antiquity: and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts. Some who had taken notice of the <HI>Royal Socie|ty</HI> in <HI>London,</HI> were very inqui&s;itive after it; and when I had &s;atisfied them in all particulars, were very much plea&s;ed therewith. If they &s;hould fall into the way of <HI>Experimental Philo&s;ophy,</HI> being very indu&s;trious, 'tis ve|ry probable they may do much therein, and they were &s;ure to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found them al&s;o much affected with the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Society in other parts of <HI>Germany.</HI> At the Univer&s;ity of <HI>Altorff</HI> I was much enquired of concerning it: and a Magi&s;trate of <HI>Nurnburg,</HI> who had got a <HI>Tele&s;cope</HI> from <HI>London,</HI> invited
<PB N="83" REF="47"> me to his Hou&s;e, to practi&s;e the way of u&s;ing it. <HI>Der Herr von Adler&s;helme</HI> of <HI>Leip&s;ick,</HI> a Per&s;on of great Cu|rio&s;ity, was very inqui&s;itive after the &s;ame <HI>Society.</HI> And of late years the <HI>Curio&s;i</HI> of <HI>Germany</HI> have held Learned Con|ventions and Corre&s;pondence, and printed their <HI>Ob&s;er|vations</HI> at <HI>Leip&s;ick.</HI> And &s;ince my Return into <HI>England,</HI> I have been &s;olicited from <HI>Ca&s;&s;ovia</HI> in <HI>Upper Hungary,</HI> to &s;end the <HI>Tran&s;actions</HI> into tho&s;e Parts.</P>
<P>During my &s;tay at <HI>Vienna,</HI> I went unto a publick Ana|to my of a Woman that was beheaded: the <HI>Lecture</HI> la&s;ted &s;o long, that the Body was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Phy&s;ician, Dr. <HI>Wolf&s;tregel,</HI> who read in <HI>Latin</HI> to the &s;atisfaction of all per&s;ons. What I mo&s;t particularly ob&s;erved therein was this, The <HI>Pyra|midal Mu&s;cles</HI> very plain and large; the <HI>Uterus</HI> larger than is u&s;ually ob&s;erved; the <HI>Cartilago En&s;iformis</HI> double; the <HI>Lungs</HI> very black; the <HI>Eye</HI> was very well &s;hown; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Pa&s;tboard and Paper, contrived and made by him|&s;elf; the <HI>Mu&s;cles</HI> of the <HI>Pharynx, Larynx, Os Hyoides,</HI> and the <HI>Tongue,</HI> after their di&s;&s;ection, he reduced very hand&s;omely into their proper places again, to &s;hew their natural &s;ituation and po&s;ition. The <HI>Anatomy-Theatre</HI> was of capacity to receive above an hundred per&s;ons; and according to the cu&s;tome of other places, to avoid imper|tinent Spectators, a piece of Mony was given for admi&s;|&s;ion. Of <HI>Anatomy-Theatres,</HI> until of late, there have been few in <HI>Germany,</HI> or none. And when I was in the <HI>Anato|my-School</HI> at <HI>Altorff,</HI> near <HI>Nurenburg,</HI> that learned and ci|vil Profe&s;&s;or, Dr. <HI>Mauritius Hoffmannus,</HI> told me that the &s;ame was the Fir&s;t in <HI>Germany.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Paulus de Sorbait,</HI> Prime Profe&s;&s;or, Phy&s;ician unto <HI>E|leonora</HI> the Empre&s;s Dowager, and Knight of <HI>Hungary,</HI> was the <HI>Rector Magnificus. Zwelfer,</HI> who writ <HI>Animad|ver&s;ions
<PB N="84" REF="48"> upon the Di&s;pen&s;atory of Au&s;burg,</HI> was in great re|pute in <HI>Vienna,</HI> and had built for him&s;elf a noble Hou&s;e in the City, but he died &s;ome time before my coming thi|ther.</P>
<P>In fine, the Univer&s;ity is noble, their Advancements con&s;iderable, their Priviledges great, and they have the power of life and death, from ancient and latter Conce&s;|&s;ions of their Dukes and Emperours.</P>
<P>But the greate&s;t lu&s;tre unto <HI>Vienna</HI> is the Re&s;idence of the pre&s;ent Emperour <HI>Leopoldus;</HI> he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Third; he was baptized by the Names of <HI>Leopoldus, Ig|natius, Franci&s;cus, Balthazar, Jo&s;ephus, Felicianus.</HI> His elde&s;t Brother <HI>Ferdinand,</HI> King of the <HI>Romans,</HI> died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother <HI>Carolus Jo&s;ephus,</HI> Ma&s;ter of the <HI>Teutonick Order,</HI> dyed 1662. He married <HI>Margareta</HI> Infanta of <HI>Spain,</HI> daughter unto King <HI>Philip</HI> the Fourth, who&s;e Children died Infants; a ver|tuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and &s;eemed to me to live very happily here, in the love and honour of his People, Souldiers, and Clergy.</P>
<P>His Per&s;on is grave and graceful; he hath the <HI>Au&s;trian</HI> Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good Phy&s;iognomical mark, and a &s;ign of a con&s;tant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predece&s;&s;ours, that is, of <HI>Rudolphus</HI> the Fir&s;t, of <HI>Maximilian</HI> the Fir&s;t, of <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth, and <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Fir&s;t. He was very affecti|onate unto his Empre&s;s, who, though but young, was a mode&s;t, grave Prince&s;s, had a good a&s;pect, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto the Jews. He &s;hewed al&s;o great re&s;pect and ob&s;ervance unto the Empre&s;s Dow|ager <HI>Eleonora,</HI> who was a &s;ober and prudent Prince&s;s, well skilled in all kind of curious Works, and delighted
<PB N="85" REF="48"> &s;ometimes to &s;hoot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coach. He was al&s;o very loving unto his Si&s;ters, beautiful and good Ladies; whereof one, the elde&s;t, was &s;ince married unto that Noble Prince <HI>Michael Wi&s;nowitzski,</HI> King of <HI>Poland.</HI></P>
<P>He &s;peaks four Languages, <HI>German, Italian, Spani&s;h,</HI> and <HI>Latin.</HI> He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, and delighteth to read, and when occa&s;ion permitteth, will pa&s;s &s;ome hours at it. The worthy <HI>Petrus Lambe|cius</HI> his Library Keeper, and who is in great e&s;teem with him, will u&s;ually find out &s;ome Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he re|commended a Tran&s;lation of <HI>Religio Medici</HI> unto him, wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly plea&s;ed, and &s;pake very much of it unto <HI>Lambecius,</HI> in&s;omuch that <HI>Lambecius</HI> asked me whether I knew the Author, he be|ing of my own name, and whether he were living: And when he under&s;tood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and de&s;ired me to &s;end him that Book in the Original <HI>Engli&s;h,</HI> which he would put into the Emperours Library: and pre&s;ented me with a neat little <HI>Latin</HI> Book, called <HI>Princeps in Com|pendio,</HI> written by the Emperours Father, <HI>Ferdinandus</HI> the Third.</P>
<P>He is al&s;o skilful in Mu&s;ick, compo&s;eth well, and de|lighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church, which makes &s;o many Mu&s;icians in <HI>Vienna;</HI> for no place abounds more with them; and in the Evening we &s;eldom failed of Mu&s;ick in the Streets, and at our Windows: And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to &s;et off their Church-mu&s;ick, for he goeth often to Church, and not to one, but divers, e|&s;pecially the be&s;t Conventual Churches: and in his own Chappel &s;ome of his own Compo&s;itions are often play'd.
<PB N="86" REF="49"> He hath al&s;o excellent Mu&s;ick in his Palace, both Vocal and In&s;trumental; and his private Chappel is well &s;er|ved, where be&s;ides the excellent Mu&s;ick, there are al|ways eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who &s;erve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands; and after the manner of the <HI>Italian</HI> Princes, divers <HI>Eunuchs</HI> to &s;ing.</P>
<P>For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in Hunting, e&s;pecially of the wild Boar in due &s;ea&s;ons; I have known him bring home &s;ix Boars in a morning. Some &s;tout per&s;ons, particularly Count <HI>Nicholas Serini,</HI> would encounter a wild Boar alone, but at la&s;t he unfortunately peri&s;hed by one, which hath made others more wary &s;ince; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Hunt&s;|men &s;o &s;tand about him, that the Emperour, or other great per&s;ons, may more &s;afely make u&s;e of their Boar|&s;pears upon him.</P>
<P>Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unu&s;ual or extraordinary Di&s;h in the City, though of a delicious and plea&s;ing ta&s;te. They feed upon <HI>Acorns, Beech-ma&s;t,</HI> and <HI>Che&s;nuts,</HI> upon the &s;pring or &s;prout of <HI>Broom, Juniper,</HI> and <HI>Shrubs,</HI> and up|on the roots of <HI>Fern,</HI> and will range into Corn-fields, and come out of Forre&s;ts into Vineyards. The Hunt&s;|men are notably ver&s;ed and skilful in that Game; for though they &s;ee it not, they will di&s;tingui&s;h a wild from a common Swine, and ghe&s;s whether that which they hunt be Male or Female, old or young, large or &s;mall, fat or lean; and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot, and the ca&s;ting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet.</P>
<P>The Emperour being &s;o good a Hunt&s;man, it is the le&s;s wonder that he is e&s;teemed a good Hor&s;man. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble Stable of Hor&s;es, procured
<PB N="87" REF="49"> from all parts, <HI>Turki&s;h, Tartarian, Polonian, Tran&s;ylvanian, Saxon, Bohemian, Hungarian, Naples, &amp;c.</HI> and they are well managed; and they ride them to the &s;atisfaction of the Beholders.</P>
<P>Having &s;een the <HI>Ar&s;enal</HI> at <HI>Venice,</HI> the <HI>Stores</HI> at <HI>Chat|ham,</HI> and the <HI>Naval Provi&s;ions</HI> at <HI>Am&s;terdam,</HI> I am not like to admire any other, e&s;pecially &s;o far from the Sea, and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Not|with&s;tanding I found an <HI>Ar&s;enal,</HI> and place for Naval Ve&s;&s;els to be &s;et out upon occa&s;ion, and &s;ome thereof were employed in the la&s;t <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> war, when they at|tempted to de&s;troy the Bridge of Boats which the <HI>Turks</HI> had made over the <HI>Danube,</HI> a little above <HI>Gran</HI> and <HI>Bare|han.</HI> They are built &s;omewhat like <HI>Galleys,</HI> carry great Guns, and a good number of Souldiers, and will make a &s;ight upon the broad deep &s;tream of the <HI>Danube,</HI> and may be hand&s;omely brought into the Town behind one of the Ba&s;tions, when the River is high; and hereof there are &s;ome at <HI>Rab</HI> and <HI>Komora,</HI> as I have declared el&s;ewhere.</P>
<P>The Emperour hath many Coun&s;ellors, great Souldiers and Courtiers about him; among which the&s;e &s;eemed of greate&s;t Note.</P>
<P><HI>Eu&s;ebius Wence&s;laus</HI> Duke <HI>de Sagan,</HI> Prince <HI>Lobko|witz,</HI> Pirme Coun&s;ellor, <HI>Hoff-mei&s;ter,</HI> of the Or|der of the <HI>Golden Fleece,</HI> a per&s;on of a grave and &s;ober A&s;pect, &s;omewhat blunt in conver&s;ation, but of a gener|ous temper, and free from all covetou&s;ne&s;s, who &s;pent his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation: He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour; and though &s;ome had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the fir&s;t that di&s;covered the la&s;t <HI>Hungarian</HI> defection and revolt, whereby tho&s;e Noble Per&s;ons, Count <HI>Peter Serini</HI> and <HI>Nada&s;ti</HI> (whom I &s;aw at <HI>Vienna</HI>) were brought unto their ends.</P>
<PB N="88" REF="50">
<P><HI>Henricus Gulielmus,</HI> Count of <HI>Stahrenberg, Ober-hoff-Mare&s;chal,</HI> or <HI>Lord Mar&s;hal of the Court.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Johannes Maximilianus,</HI> Count of <HI>Lamburg, Ober&s;t-Kammer-Herr,</HI> or <HI>Chief of the Chamber,</HI> a Per&s;on of great e&s;teem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary; there may be an hundred of them, all <HI>Barons</HI> and <HI>Counts.</HI> Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Brea&s;t: and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel: Two of each attend every Night.</P>
<P><HI>Gundakerus,</HI> Count <HI>Dietrich&s;tein, Ober&s;t-Stall-Mei&s;ter,</HI> or <HI>Chief Ma&s;ter of the Hor&s;e.</HI></P>
<P>The&s;e are the Chief. The&s;e following are al&s;o con&s;i|derable.</P>
<P>Count <HI>Sinzendorff, Ober&s;te-Jag-Mei&s;ter, Grand Ve|neur,</HI> or <HI>Hunts-Ma&s;ter,</HI> a Per&s;on in good favour with the Emperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as have mo&s;t of his Predece&s;&s;ors.</P>
<P>The Count of <HI>Aver&s;berg Ober&s;t Falken-Mei&s;ter, Chief Falconer,</HI> who hath twelve Falconers under him.</P>
<P>The Count of <HI>Paar, Chief Ma&s;ter of the Emperours Po&s;t.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Leopoldus Wilhelmus,</HI> Marqui&s;s of <HI>Baden, Captain</HI> of an hundred <HI>Hart&s;hires,</HI> who are the <HI>Hor&s;e-guard,</HI> and ride with <HI>Pi&s;tols</HI> and <HI>Carabines</HI> out of the City; but within <HI>Vienna</HI> they cary <HI>Launces</HI> and <HI>Javelins</HI> with broad points.</P>
<P><HI>Franci&s;cus Augu&s;tinus,</HI> Count of <HI>Wallen&s;teyn, Captain</HI> of an hundred of the <HI>Foot-guard,</HI> of a good Per&s;onage, and well e&s;teemed of by the Emperour.</P>
<P>Sixty, or more, <HI>Pages,</HI> for the number is uncertain, and not limited; mo&s;t of them <HI>Counts</HI> and <HI>Barons.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Raymundus,</HI> Count <HI>de Montecuculi,</HI> was his <HI>General,</HI> Pre&s;ident of the Council of War, Governour of <HI>Rab</HI> and
<PB N="89" REF="50"> the Confines about it, and of the <HI>Order</HI> of the <HI>Golden Fleece;</HI> a tall Per&s;on, &s;omewhat lean, but hath a &s;pirit in his look: he is one of the olde&s;t Commanders in <HI>Europe,</HI> and performed good Service in <HI>Poland, Hungary, Ger|many</HI> in many places, and is e&s;teemed a prudent, valiant, and &s;ucce&s;sful Commander.</P>
<P>The Count <HI>de Souches</HI> was al&s;o a <HI>Commander</HI> of great Fame, and in high e&s;teem with the Emperour. He was a Native of <HI>Rochelle:</HI> he fir&s;t &s;erved the <HI>Swedes</HI> in the <HI>German</HI> wars, and was a Colonel, but upon &s;ome di&s;gu&s;t he for&s;ook the <HI>Swedes,</HI> and &s;erved the <HI>Imperiali&s;ts,</HI> and was made Governour of <HI>Brin,</HI> the &s;econd Town in <HI>Mo|ravia.</HI> After the taking of <HI>Crembs</HI> in <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> General <HI>Tor&s;ten&s;on</HI> be&s;ieged <HI>Brin,</HI> and &s;ent word unto the Govern|our <HI>de Souches,</HI> That if he refu&s;ed to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter. Who an&s;wered him, That he would not ask any, and al&s;o give none: and defended the place with &s;uch re&s;olution, that after many A&s;&s;aults, Underminings, and Attempts by <HI>Granado's, Tor&s;ten&s;on</HI> was forced to ri&s;e, after a Siege of four months, which was &s;o advantagious unto <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> and the <HI>Imperial</HI> affairs, that the Emperour took e&s;pecial notice of him, made him a <HI>Baron,</HI> and of his <HI>Privy Council.</HI> He commanded al&s;o all the Forces in <HI>Vienna,</HI> and did notable Service in the la&s;t <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> wars. He took the City of <HI>Nitra,</HI> or <HI>Nitria,</HI> not far from <HI>Strigonium</HI> or <HI>Gran;</HI> and took and &s;lew &s;ix thou&s;and <HI>Turks</HI> which were &s;ent by the <HI>Vizier</HI> of <HI>Buda</HI> a|gain&s;t him: a worthy Per&s;on, and of a good A&s;pect. Count <HI>Souches</HI> the younger his Son, an Heroick Com|mander, is Governour of the &s;trong fortified place <HI>Leopold|&s;tadt</HI> by <HI>Frei&s;tadt,</HI> a Per&s;on of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.</P>
<P>Count <HI>Le&s;ly,</HI> Nephew unto Count <HI>Le&s;ly</HI> who was &s;ent Amba&s;&s;adour to <HI>Con&s;tantinople</HI> to the <HI>Sultan</HI> from the Em|perour,
<PB N="90" REF="51"> is a Commander worthy of that e&s;teem he hath with the Emperour; a Per&s;on of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, which I mu&s;t ever acknowledge.</P>
<P>The Courts of the Empre&s;s, and of the Empre&s;s Dow|ager, are filled with Per&s;ons of Note; and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marqui&s;s <HI>Pio, Spork, Cops,</HI> and many more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good e&s;teem with the Emperour; but the <HI>Je&s;uites Milner</HI> and <HI>Bocca|bella</HI> are his near Favorites. Many Strangers, both Soul|diers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here. And &s;urely Strangers of parts and indu&s;try, &s;o they be of the <HI>Roman Church,</HI> are not like to rai&s;e their Fortunes any where better than in the&s;e parts.</P>
<P>Though the Emperour goeth not to war in Per&s;on, yet hath he been &s;ucce&s;sful in his wars, e&s;pecially in the la&s;t Battel with the <HI>Turks</HI> at St. <HI>Godart,</HI> where the bu&s;ine&s;s was hand&s;omly and actively managed, to &s;et upon the body of the <HI>Turks,</HI> which had pa&s;&s;ed the River <HI>Rab,</HI> before the whole Forces of the <HI>Vizier</HI> could come over, to the great &s;laughter of the <HI>Jani&s;aries</HI> and <HI>Turks,</HI> who fought &s;tout|ly, and were fir&s;t put to a Retreat by the <HI>French</HI> Caval|ry. For at fir&s;t the <HI>Turks</HI> &s;eemed to prevail, and had &s;lain a great part of two Regiments of the <HI>Auxiliaries</HI> which came out of <HI>Franconia,</HI> and after their cu&s;tome, had cut off their Heads.</P>
<P>Among the many notable things in <HI>Vienna,</HI> the <HI>Imperi|al</HI> Library is very remarkable. He who hath &s;een the <HI>Bodleian</HI> Library at <HI>Oxford,</HI> and the <HI>Vatican</HI> at <HI>Rome,</HI> would be much &s;urpri&s;ed to find &s;uch a notable one here, as may compare with them; e&s;pecially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of <HI>Europe.</HI></P>
<P>The number and noblene&s;s of the Books doth much ex|ceed the receptacle or place which containeth them, as
<PB N="91" REF="51"> making no fair &s;hew at the entrance, and &s;omewhat want|ing light. But as for the number and value of the Books, they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none, but rather excelleth any other Library in <HI>Europe.</HI> There was a place de&s;igned for the building of a fit receptacle for them; but, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place.</P>
<P>It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which are &s;o well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor; and the Shelves &s;tand &s;o clo&s;e, that there is but ju&s;t room to pa&s;s between them. The Manu&s;cripts &s;tand di&s;tinct from the printed Books, according to their Languages, being divided into &s;ix <HI>Cla&s;&s;es, Theological, Juridical, Medical, Philo&s;ophical, Hi&s;torical, Philologi|cal.</HI> There can &s;carce be a more admirable Collection than the Manu&s;cripts in part of the fir&s;t Chamber, of <HI>He|brew, Syriack, Arabick, Turki&s;h, Armenian, Aethiopick,</HI> and <HI>Chine&s;e</HI> Books.</P>
<P>It was begun, at lea&s;t the Books began to be placed in this receptacle, by <HI>Maximilian</HI> the Fir&s;t, but hath been much encrea&s;ed by &s;ucceeding Emperours, mo&s;t of them, &s;ince <HI>Rodolphus</HI> the Fir&s;t, being much addicted unto Learning, there having been large acce&s;&s;ions from many noble Libraries, and mo&s;t upon the co&s;t of the Emper|ours. The choice&s;t Books in the famous Library of <HI>Bu|da,</HI> of King <HI>Matthias Corvinus,</HI> Son unto <HI>Huniades,</HI> are now in it. The notable Library of <HI>Wolfgangus La|zius,</HI> who was Library-Keeper, was brought hither, and Three thou&s;and Books of <HI>Johannes Sambucus</HI> are now in this Repo&s;itory.</P>
<P><HI>Augerius Bu&s;bequius,</HI> &s;ometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto it; and in his two <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Emba&s;&s;ies procured great number of noble <HI>Greek</HI> Manu&s;cripts at <HI>Con&s;tantinople,</HI> which are in&s;cribed with his own hand,
<PB N="92" REF="52"> <HI>Aug. de Bu&s;beck. emit Con&s;tantinopoli.</HI> A great many were added from the Library of the Learned <HI>Johannes Cu&s;pini|anus,</HI> Library Keeper, and Coun&s;ellor unto the Emper|our. The notable Libraries and Mathematical In&s;tru|ments of <HI>Tycho Brahe, Kepler,</HI> and <HI>Ga&s;&s;endus,</HI> were pur|cha&s;ed for it. But the large&s;t acce&s;&s;ion was made by the noble Library of Count <HI>Fugger,</HI> which con&s;i&s;ting of &s;ix|teen thou&s;and Volumes, was purcha&s;ed by <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Third. Many were brought, &s;ome few years pa&s;t, from the <HI>Ambra&s;ian</HI> Library by <HI>In&s;pruck,</HI> by the Learned <HI>Pe|trus Lambecius,</HI> Library Keeper, Hi&s;toriographer, and Coun&s;ellor unto the pre&s;ent Emperour; who hath al&s;o an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the <HI>Imperial.</HI> He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at lea&s;t to Four&s;core thou&s;and; and by this time that number may be increa&s;ed, for he ad|deth &s;ome yearly. And the number might almo&s;t be endle&s;s, if they would make u&s;e of their priviledge, for the Emperour hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in <HI>Germany.</HI></P>
<P>They have al&s;o a great advantage at <HI>Vienna,</HI> to acquire good <HI>Manu&s;cripts</HI> from the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Dominions, for the Emperour is obliged to have a Re&s;ident with the Grand <HI>Signor</HI> where&s;oever he moveth or ordereth him to be; even at the la&s;t &s;ight of St. <HI>Godart,</HI> the Emperour's Re&s;ident was in the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Camp. And when I was at <HI>Lari&s;&s;a</HI> in <HI>The&s;&s;aly,</HI> the Re&s;ident <HI>Signor di Ca&s;a Nova,</HI> was inqui&s;i|tive after Books to be found among the <HI>Greeks</HI> in Mona|&s;teries and other places. And this Emperour, like his Father, will &s;pare no co&s;t toward &s;uch Acquiries.</P>
<P>By the e&s;pecial favour of my noble Friend <HI>Lambecius,</HI> I went many times into this Library, and he was &s;o cour|teous as to let me have what Books I de&s;ired unto my pri|vate Lodging: He would &s;hew me divers Books upon
<PB N="93" REF="52"> what Subject I required, and offered me a &s;ight of what Books he thought rare and e&s;timable; and among&s;t others I could not but take notice of the&s;e following.</P>
<P>A <HI>Letter</HI> of the pre&s;ent Emperour of <HI>China,</HI> in the <HI>Chine&s;e</HI> and <HI>Tartarian</HI> Languages, unto the pre&s;ent Em|perour of <HI>Germany,</HI> weaved in a very fine <HI>Roll.</HI></P>
<P>Another old <HI>Roll</HI> written in unknown Letters, yet a little re&s;embling the <HI>Greek.</HI></P>
<P>A <HI>Book</HI> in the <HI>Runick</HI> Language.</P>
<P>A very fair <HI>Manu&s;cript</HI> of <HI>Ptolomy,</HI> with the Mapps drawn in Colours.</P>
<P>The <HI>olde&s;t Manu&s;cript</HI> and <HI>true Exemplar</HI> of <HI>Livie,</HI> in large Letters, without di&s;tinction of <HI>Words</HI> or <HI>Sentences,</HI> very unea&s;ie to be read, a thou&s;and years old, and brought, not many years &s;ince, from the Library near <HI>In&s;pruck.</HI></P>
<P>An old fair <HI>Greek Manu&s;cript</HI> of <HI>Dio&s;corides,</HI> written eleven hundred years &s;ince, in very large <HI>Letters,</HI> without di&s;tance of <HI>Words,</HI> or <HI>Accents,</HI> wherein all the <HI>Plants</HI> are lively painted; al&s;o the <HI>Pictures</HI> of <HI>Dio&s;corides, Galen, Pamphilus, Cratevas,</HI> and other ancient <HI>Phy&s;icians,</HI> bought of a <HI>Jew</HI> at <HI>Con&s;tantinople</HI> for an hundred <HI>Ducats</HI> by <HI>Bu&s;|bequius.</HI></P>
<P>A <HI>Book</HI> of <HI>Geometrical Propo&s;itions</HI> demon&s;trated in the <HI>China</HI> Language.</P>
<P>Another fair one in the <HI>China</HI> Tongue with <HI>Pi|ctures.</HI></P>
<P>A noble old <HI>Greek Manu&s;cript</HI> in great uncial <HI>Letters,</HI> without &s;tops, points, or di&s;tance of words.</P>
<P>An ancient <HI>Greek Manu&s;cript</HI> of the <HI>Book</HI> of <HI>Gene&s;is,</HI> in large <HI>Letters,</HI> without di&s;tance or accents, thirteen hun|dred years ago; wherein are Forty eight <HI>Pictures</HI> or <HI>Draughts</HI> in <HI>Miniature</HI> or <HI>Water colours,</HI> much conducing to the knowledge of <HI>ancient Habits,</HI> the manner of <HI>Fea&s;t|ing,</HI>
<PB N="94" REF="53"> po&s;tures at <HI>Meals,</HI> waiting of <HI>Servants</HI> and <HI>Mu&s;ical In&s;truments:</HI> Wherein I could not but take notice of the <HI>Golden Spot</HI> upon <HI>Jo&s;ephs</HI> brea&s;t; and the manner of the <HI>Execution</HI> of <HI>Pharaoh</HI>'s Baker, his <HI>Head</HI> being put through a forked piece of wood, and his <HI>Hands</HI> tyed behind him.</P>
<P>A fair <HI>Book</HI> of <HI>Albert Durer,</HI> wherein are many fine <HI>Paintings</HI> in <HI>Miniature</HI> or <HI>Limning;</HI> as al&s;o a <HI>Sphere,</HI> and within it a <HI>Globe</HI> carved and painted by him.</P>
<P>A fair <HI>Book</HI> of <HI>Michael Angelo,</HI> wherein, be&s;ides many rare things in <HI>Architecture,</HI> are all the <HI>paintings</HI> and <HI>de|&s;igns</HI> of the <HI>Belvedere</HI> in little.</P>
<P>A fair <HI>Alcoran</HI> in <HI>Arabick,</HI> interlined with the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> to explain it.</P>
<P>The <HI>Bible</HI> in the <HI>Coptick</HI> and <HI>Per&s;ian</HI> Languages.</P>
<P><HI>Luther</HI>'s own <HI>Bible,</HI> marked with his own <HI>Hand,</HI> and interlined by him with <HI>Notes</HI> in many places.</P>
<P>A fair <HI>Greek Manu&s;cript</HI> of the <HI>New Te&s;tament,</HI> fifteen hundred years ago written in <HI>Letters</HI> of <HI>Gold</HI> upon <HI>Pur|ple.</HI></P>
<P>There was al&s;o a <HI>Magical Gla&s;s,</HI> obtained by the Em|perour <HI>Rodolphus,</HI> whereby to &s;ee <HI>Apparitions,</HI> and con|ver&s;e with <HI>Spirits;</HI> which &s;ome conceive to be the &s;ame, or of the like nature with that u&s;ed by <HI>Kelly.</HI></P>
<P>Of ancient <HI>Greek, Roman,</HI> and <HI>Gothick Medals</HI> and <HI>Coyns,</HI> in <HI>Gold, Silver,</HI> and <HI>Copper,</HI> to the number of &s;ix|teen thou&s;and. Among the <HI>Copper Coyns</HI> they pretend to have two of the Emperour <HI>Marcus Otho.</HI></P>
<P>I let fall &s;ome <HI>Drops</HI> into this <HI>Ocean,</HI> adding &s;ome <HI>Coyns, Intaglia's,</HI> and <HI>In&s;criptions</HI> not to be found in that large work of <HI>Gruterus;</HI> which having found in the Em|perours furthe&s;t Dominions and <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> parts, long out of his po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ion, where there had been no great enquiry af|ter them; were &s;hewed unto his Imperial Maje&s;ty by <HI>Pe|trus
<PB N="95" REF="53"> Lambecius,</HI> and &s;o well accepted by him, that he &s;aid I might have the u&s;e of what Books I de&s;ired: and at my return into <HI>England</HI> he gave me a formal Pa&s;s in <HI>Latin</HI> for my &s;afe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods might not be &s;earched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in pa&s;&s;ing &s;o many <HI>Principalities</HI> and free <HI>Cities,</HI> Command|ing all in his own Dominions, and Reque&s;ting all Princes in <HI>Germany</HI> to favour me, and permit me to pa&s;s freely without mole&s;tation: It was thus Sub&s;cribed,</P>
<Q><P>Leopoldus</P>
<P>Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinig&s;eggs.</P>
<P>Ad mandatum Sacr. Cae&s;. Maje&s;tatis proprium Be&uuml;er.</P></Q>
<P>The <HI>Rarities</HI> of the great Duke of <HI>Tu&s;cany,</HI> The <HI>Trea|&s;ure</HI> of <HI>Loretto,</HI> St. <HI>Mark,</HI> St. <HI>Denis</HI> in <HI>France,</HI> of the Duke of <HI>Saxony</HI> at <HI>Dre&s;den,</HI> and others, were very &s;a|tisfactory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, I would not leave <HI>Vienna</HI> without a &s;ight of the mo&s;t noble <HI>Trea|&s;ury</HI> or <HI>Repo&s;itory</HI> of his Imperial Maje&s;ty; e&s;pecially ha|ving heard &s;o much thereof, and knowing it to be the <HI>Collection</HI> of many &s;ucceeding Emperours. I therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curio&s;ities thereof. To &s;et down all I &s;aw, were a work too large for this Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in <HI>Folio.</HI> I &s;hall therefore only mention the&s;e following,
<PB N="96" REF="54"> whereby &s;ome conjecture may be made of the re&s;t.</P>
<P>In the fir&s;t <HI>Cupboard</HI> or <HI>Ca&s;e</HI> were many noble Ve&s;&s;els, turned and &s;haped out of <HI>Ivory,</HI> a <HI>Cup</HI> turned by the Emperours own Hand; another turned by <HI>Ferdinandus</HI> the Third. Gallant <HI>Cups</HI> of <HI>Amber; Spoons</HI> and <HI>Ve&s;&s;els</HI> of <HI>Mother of Pearl;</HI> many noble works in <HI>Coral;</HI> a fine <HI>Galley</HI> in <HI>Ivory,</HI> and <HI>Cups</HI> made out of <HI>Rhinocerot's</HI> horn.</P>
<P><LABEL>In the &s;econd,</LABEL> An <HI>Elephant</HI> of <HI>Ivory</HI> with a <HI>Ca&s;tle</HI> upon his back, and over the <HI>Ca&s;tle</HI> a <HI>Ship,</HI> with much other fine work in the &s;ame piece. Two fair <HI>Pillars</HI> of <HI>Ivory;</HI> good <HI>Ba&s;&s;o Re|lievo</HI> in <HI>Ivory;</HI> a fair <HI>Cranium</HI> or <HI>Deaths-head,</HI> and much other variety of <HI>Ivory</HI> work. A <HI>Picture</HI> in <HI>Oyl</HI> of <HI>Ga|nimede,</HI> by <HI>Corregio.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>In the third,</LABEL> A fine <HI>Picture</HI> of an <HI>old Man's head</HI> in <HI>Oyl</HI> by <HI>Albert Durer:</HI> great Variety of <HI>Watches</HI> and <HI>Clock-work</HI> in <HI>Sil|ver:</HI> a fine <HI>Centaur</HI> in <HI>Silver,</HI> which is a curious <HI>Watch.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>In the fourth,</LABEL> More <HI>Watches</HI> and <HI>Clock-work;</HI> a gallant <HI>Ship</HI> of <HI>Silver,</HI> a <HI>Triumphal Chariot,</HI> a <HI>Turk</HI> riding and attended, a <HI>Globe</HI> and a <HI>Sphere</HI> in <HI>Silver,</HI> a curious <HI>Landskip</HI> in <HI>Oyl</HI> by <HI>Cor|regio,</HI> a <HI>Cupid</HI> by the &s;ame hand, with a fine Copy of it.</P>
<P><LABEL>In the fifth,</LABEL> A curious <HI>Filigrane Handkerchief,</HI> and two fair <HI>File|grane Plates</HI> brought out of <HI>Spain</HI> by the Empre&s;s <HI>Mar|garita;</HI> an <HI>Indian Basket</HI> of an <HI>Indian</HI> &s;ort of <HI>Filegrane</HI> mixed with <HI>Birds;</HI> a <HI>Ba&s;on</HI> of <HI>Agate</HI> finely wrought with &s;ilver <HI>Craw-fi&s;hes</HI> in it.</P>
<PB N="97" REF="54">
<P><LABEL>In the &s;ixth,</LABEL> Is contained a &s;trange <HI>Collection</HI> of <HI>Intaglie</HI> and old <HI>Ro|man Stones,</HI> admirable for their work and largene&s;s. A large <HI>Agate</HI> whereon is wrought the Hi&s;tory of that <HI>Victory</HI> which <HI>Augu&s;tus Cae&s;ar</HI> obtained over the <HI>Dalmatians</HI> and <HI>Pannonians</HI> in the ninth year of our Lord; about five inches long, and four broad, highly valued.</P>
<P>An <HI>Onyx</HI> with the <HI>Head</HI> of <HI>Alexander</HI> and <HI>Olympia.</HI></P>
<P>A <HI>Shell</HI> with a <HI>Battel</HI> carved in it.</P>
<P>A <HI>Chain</HI> with the <HI>Heads</HI> of all the <HI>Au&s;trian Family.</HI></P>
<P>A <HI>Dog</HI> in a very large <HI>Sardonyx.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>In the &s;eventh,</LABEL> A noble <HI>Head</HI> in <HI>Oyl</HI> by <HI>Hans van Ach.</HI> The <HI>Head</HI> of <HI>Maximilianus</HI> the Fir&s;t in <HI>Plai&s;ter,</HI> with a <HI>lock</HI> of his own <HI>Hair. Mother of Pearl</HI> in many &s;hapes. Fine <HI>Ba&s;|kets,</HI> and the twelve <HI>Cae&s;ar</HI>'s Heads.</P>
<P><LABEL>In the eighth, mo&s;t of <HI>Chry&s;tal,</HI></LABEL> A noble <HI>Ve&s;&s;el</HI> about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of <HI>Chry&s;tal.</HI> An <HI>Urne.</HI> The <HI>Head</HI> of the Empre&s;s. A fair <HI>Dragon.</HI> The <HI>Head</HI> of the Queen-Mother of <HI>France.</HI> A <HI>Chry&s;tal</HI> in which the <HI>Picture</HI> of our <HI>Saviour</HI> may be &s;een thrice one way, and once another way.</P>
<P><LABEL>The ninth of <HI>Chry&s;tal</HI> al&s;o,</LABEL> A noble <HI>Ewer.</HI> A fair <HI>Ve&s;&s;el</HI> of very clear <HI>Chry&s;tal,</HI> lately bought. A large <HI>Head.</HI> Fair <HI>Cro&s;&s;es,</HI> and other Varieties.</P>
<P><LABEL>The tenth of <HI>Gold</HI> and precious <HI>Stones.</HI></LABEL> Five <HI>Crowns.</HI> The <HI>Imperial Crown;</HI> rich in <HI>Jewels,</HI> and hath a very large <HI>blew Saphir</HI> on the top. A <HI>Model</HI> of that <HI>Crown</HI> with which the <HI>Emperour</HI> is crowned, much
<PB N="98" REF="55"> richer than the Original. A <HI>Paragon Diamond</HI> of &s;even|teen <HI>Carats</HI> and a half. Very large <HI>Rubies.</HI> A <HI>Scepter</HI> of <HI>Unicorns</HI> horn, &s;et with rich <HI>Stones.</HI> A <HI>Locket</HI> of the greate&s;t <HI>Diamonds.</HI> A magnificent <HI>Scepter, Globe, Cro&s;s,</HI> and <HI>Crown,</HI> which co&s;t &s;even hundred thou&s;and Crowns. An <HI>Opal</HI> bigger than my hand, as it was taken out of the <HI>Mine;</HI> and many other fair <HI>Opals.</HI> A very large <HI>Emerald.</HI> A <HI>Ship</HI> in an <HI>Emerald.</HI> A fair <HI>Ring-Dial.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>The eleventh of <HI>Gold.</HI></LABEL> A noble <HI>Ba&s;on</HI> u&s;ed at the <HI>Bapti&s;m</HI> of the <HI>Au&s;trian Fa|mily. Scepters, Scimeters, Knives,</HI> and other rich <HI>Pre|&s;ents</HI> from the <HI>Turk.</HI> Three rich <HI>Dog-Collars,</HI> &s;ent with three <HI>Dogs</HI> out of <HI>England,</HI> with this Mark on them &revC;C &revC;C. A large lump of pure <HI>Gold,</HI> as it was taken out of the <HI>Mine,</HI> as broad as my hand. A fair piece of <HI>Gold Ore,</HI> wherein the pure <HI>Gold</HI> &s;hooteth upon a <HI>white Stone.</HI> Divers great <HI>Ba&s;ons</HI> of <HI>Gold</HI> and <HI>Coral.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>In the twelfth.</LABEL> <HI>Ve&s;&s;els</HI> of <HI>Ja&s;pis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Granates. Cups</HI> of <HI>Onyx, Sardonyx.</HI> Large ones of <HI>Lapis Nephriti|cus:</HI> and a great one of an <HI>Amethy&s;t.</HI></P>
<P><LABEL>In the thirteenth.</LABEL> A large high <HI>Ve&s;&s;el</HI> of <HI>Bohemian Topaz. Flowers</HI> well made out of <HI>precious Stones.</HI> A <HI>Cup</HI> of an <HI>Hungarian Dia|mond.</HI> A piece of <HI>Ambergreece</HI> as big as a mans head, &s;ent from the <HI>Grand Signor.</HI> A noble <HI>Ja&s;pis-&s;tone.</HI> A large <HI>Stone</HI> of <HI>Agate</HI> on the out&s;ide, and a bed of large <HI>Ame|thy&s;ts</HI> naturally in it in the middle, which is an extra|ordinary and plea&s;ant Rarity.</P>
<PB N="99" REF="55">
<P><LABEL>In the re&s;t,</LABEL> Noble <HI>Chry&s;olites, Jacynths, Oriental Granates, Berylt</HI> or <HI>Aquamarines.</HI> The notable rich <HI>Smaragdus,</HI> or <HI>Eme|rald,</HI> or a <HI>Cup</HI> out of that <HI>Stone.</HI> Three great ones ha|ving been already taken out, valued at three hundred thou&s;and Crowns. A <HI>Picture</HI> in <HI>Oyl</HI> of the little King <HI>Uladi&s;laus Lokeli,</HI> King of <HI>Hungary.</HI> Ten rich <HI>Turki&s;h Saddles</HI> with <HI>Furniture</HI> for <HI>Hor&s;es,</HI> &s;et with fair <HI>Turcois Stones.</HI> A great number of <HI>Gold Ve&s;&s;els</HI> and fine <HI>Figures</HI> in <HI>Coral, Turki&s;h Knives, Gauntlets,</HI> and <HI>Table men</HI> of <HI>Gold.</HI> Delicate <HI>Pictures</HI> in <HI>Wax.</HI> Very large <HI>Bezoar-&s;tones, In|dian-gold Cards</HI> and <HI>Counters.</HI> A va&s;t <HI>Medal</HI> of the <HI>Em|perours Arms,</HI> weighing two thou&s;and two hundred <HI>Du|cats,</HI> or a thou&s;and pounds <HI>Engli&s;h.</HI> A <HI>Cup</HI> out of <HI>Solo|mon</HI>'s <HI>Temple.</HI> Fair <HI>Amber,</HI> Rare <HI>Inlaying</HI> in <HI>Wood. Bac|chus</HI> and other <HI>Statua's</HI> out of a very high <HI>Rhinocerot</HI>'s horn. A fine <HI>Picture</HI> of the Mountain <HI>Ve&s;uvius. Jewels</HI> with <HI>black Feathers</HI> given by the <HI>Turki&s;h Amba&s;sadours.</HI> A notable <HI>Picture</HI> of a lean <HI>Skeleton Prie&s;t,</HI> who lived &s;o four years. A noble <HI>Cabinet-clock</HI> with large motions. A fair <HI>Ba&s;on</HI> and <HI>Ewer</HI> of carved <HI>Ivory.</HI> King <HI>Philip</HI> the Second of <HI>Spain</HI> in <HI>Diamond</HI> Armour, &s;et in <HI>Gold.</HI> A neat <HI>Picture</HI> of an <HI>old Man</HI> courting a <HI>young Woman,</HI> with this <HI>Motto:</HI></P>
<Q>Arctum Annulum n&egrave; ge&s;tato.</Q>
<P>A <HI>Knife</HI> &s;wallowed by a <HI>Pea&s;ant</HI> near <HI>Prague,</HI> which was nine months in his <HI>Stomach,</HI> and &s;afely cut out 1602. The like happened al&s;o to a per&s;on in <HI>Pru&s;&s;ia,</HI> of which <HI>Daniel Becker</HI> hath written a peculiar <HI>Tract</HI> under this Title, <HI>De Cultrivoro Pru&s;&s;iaco.</HI> A fair <HI>Crucifix</HI> of <HI>Pearl. Indian Pictures</HI> made of <HI>Feathers.</HI> The King of <HI>Sweden, Gu&s;ta|vus Adolphus</HI>'s <HI>Buff-coat</HI> in which he was killed at the Bat|tel of <HI>Lutzen. Tilly</HI>'s Sword. An <HI>Angel</HI> in <HI>Ivory</HI> with
<PB N="100" REF="56"> Hair and Clothes of <HI>Filegrane</HI> of <HI>Gold.</HI> A neat <HI>Crucifix</HI> of <HI>Wood</HI> by <HI>Albertus Durer,</HI> Two very large <HI>Looking|gla&s;&s;es</HI> with the <HI>Frames</HI> of <HI>Silver.</HI> All the <HI>Go&s;pels</HI> writ|ten and painted. Many brave <HI>Statua's</HI> and <HI>Pictures</HI> e|very where. The <HI>Head</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Fir&s;t King of <HI>Eng|land,</HI> in <HI>white Marble.</HI> A <HI>Pedi&s;tal</HI> of <HI>Amber,</HI> over which a <HI>Cro&s;s.</HI> The <HI>Head</HI> of St. <HI>Valerius</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Triers.</HI> The <HI>Picture</HI> of St. <HI>Katherine</HI> of <HI>Sienna,</HI> drawn by <HI>Sigi&s;mund</HI> King of <HI>Poland.</HI> A Picture of the <HI>Emperour</HI> as he giveth <HI>Audience,</HI> to be looked upon through a little round hole. A neat <HI>Table</HI> of <HI>Inlay'd Stone</HI> made by the pre&s;ent Empre&s;s Dowager <HI>Eleonora.</HI> A <HI>Nail</HI> of our <HI>Saviour</HI>'s <HI>Cro&s;s</HI> almo&s;t a foot long; our <HI>Saviour</HI>'s <HI>Blood;</HI> and two <HI>Thorns</HI> of his <HI>Crown,</HI> the one whiter than the other. <HI>Prie&s;ts Garments</HI> covered all over with large <HI>Pearl.</HI> The great and high e&s;teemed <HI>Agate Di&s;h,</HI> between three and four &s;pans Diameter, with XRISOS naturally in it. Unto which one applied that of St. <HI>Luke, Dico vobis quia &s;i hi tacuerint, lapides clamabunt.</HI></P>
<P>Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more added, the noble <HI>Chain</HI> of <HI>Pearl</HI> of eight yards long, ta|ken from the <HI>Graff Tokoly</HI> in the late <HI>Hungarian</HI> war, as I under&s;tand &s;ince my Return.</P>
<P>I went unto divers noted Places about <HI>Vienna:</HI> I walk|ed unto the Hill of <HI>Vienna,</HI> two <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles di&s;tant from the Town, going up all the way by an ea&s;ie A&s;cent; from whence I had a pro&s;pect of the City, and the Campagnia about it, together with the high Mountains in <HI>Steirmark</HI> covered with Snow: and in my return &s;aw the Palace of the Empre&s;s Dowager without the Town, called <HI>la Favo|rita,</HI> and pa&s;&s;ed by the Convent of the <HI>Paulini.</HI></P>
<P>About two <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles Ea&s;tward from <HI>Vienna,</HI> there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour, built by <HI>Rodolphus</HI> the Second, which hath been formerly
<PB N="101" REF="56"> well furni&s;hed, and provided with Plants, but now &s;eems to be neglected, and &s;omewhat ruinous. It con&s;i&s;teth of an inward and an outward &s;quare Garden: The inward is two hundred ordinary paces &s;quare, about the &s;ame big|ne&s;s with the Place Royal at <HI>Paris:</HI> It hath a <HI>Portico</HI> or <HI>Cloy&s;ter,</HI> &s;upported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each &s;ide, and is covered with Copper; as are al&s;o the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Be&s;ides this, there is an hand&s;ome row of Buildings well &s;eated, called <HI>N&eacute;w-gaba&uacute;,</HI> in which at pre&s;ent are many wild Bea&s;ts kept. Lions and Tigres breed here, and have young ones. Some &s;ay this was the place of <HI>Solyman</HI> the Magnificents Tent when he be&s;ieged <HI>Vienna.</HI></P>
<P>There is al&s;o, about two or three miles from <HI>Vienna,</HI> a noted place of Devotion, called <HI>Arnols,</HI> much frequen|ted, e&s;pecially in <HI>Lent,</HI> divers carrying Cro&s;&s;es very heavy all the way upon their &s;houlders. There is here a little Hou&s;e built exactly after that of the Sepulchre at <HI>Jeru&s;alem;</HI> and al&s;o a hand&s;ome Copy of the Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin <HI>Mary,</HI> with their exact heights. That of our Saviour is about two yards high; that of the ble&s;&s;ed Virgin three or four &s;ingers breadth lower: The&s;e are taken from the Original in St. <HI>John de Lateran</HI> at <HI>Rome.</HI> Hither the Empre&s;s de&s;ired to go one morning from her own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which &s;he perform|ed, though with a great deal of difficulty, &s;he being not u&s;ed to walk, and the way was du&s;ty. The Emperour accompanied her, and all the Court followed on foot, which made a hand&s;ome &s;hew.</P>
<P>Nearer unto <HI>Vienna</HI> there is al&s;o a remarkable place for Devotion, called <HI>Itzing:</HI> and in the way from <HI>Vienna</HI> unto it, the twelve Stations of the Cro&s;s are marked out in imitation of what is ob&s;erved near <HI>Jeru&s;alem,</HI> in the <HI>Via Crucis,</HI> or <HI>Doloro&s;a,</HI> in our Saviours proceeding from
<PB N="102" REF="57"> the City unto Mount <HI>Calvary;</HI> the Figures thereof are printed, and the &s;everal paces between every Station &s;et down. The Emperour hath a hand&s;ome Park near <HI>Vien|na,</HI> called the <HI>Brater,</HI> wherein I beheld the effects of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three days before, upon many great Trees which were torn, &s;plit, or twi&s;ted. There is a Hou&s;e of Plea&s;ure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Mu&s;ical In&s;trument which I had not &s;een before, a <HI>Seat</HI> or <HI>Che&s;t-drum;</HI> it hath a Cord like that of a <HI>Sea-trumpet,</HI> but &s;oundeth like a <HI>Kettle-drum.</HI></P>
<P>I went al&s;o unto <HI>Laxambourg,</HI> whither the Emperour often retireth; he hath a Hou&s;e in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is al&s;o a Hou&s;e of Plea&s;ure in the Mote, into which there is no other pa&s;&s;age but through a high <HI>Gorridore.</HI> The Ca&s;tle is commodiou&s;ly &s;eated for the Emperours recreation; and there is an eight-&s;quare Hou&s;e in the <HI>Mar&s;h,</HI> from which the Nobility and the Empre&s;s Dowager &s;ometimes u&s;ed to &s;hoot, &s;he being very expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours Hou&s;e hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a heathen-maid. They &s;eemed to me to be Bones of an <HI>Elephant</HI> But many things that are old or ob&s;cure, they call, in this Country, Heathen: as <HI>Roman</HI> Coyns, they call Heathen mony. And the Pea&s;ants brought me, in a place which had been formerly an old <HI>Roman</HI> Station, part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key.</P>
<P>From hence I went unto <HI>Manner&s;dorff,</HI> &s;eated not far from the River <HI>Leyta,</HI> where there is a natural <HI>hot Bath,</HI> called the <HI>Wildebath;</HI> it ari&s;eth under a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is but Lukewarm, and therefore when they de&s;ire it hotter, they boyl it, and &s;o bathe in Tubs in a large room.
<PB N="103" REF="57"> From that Sub&s;tance which &s;ticketh to the &s;ides of the Coppers in the boyling of it, they judge it to be impreg|nated with <HI>Sulphur, Salt-peter,</HI> and <HI>Chalk.</HI> The water colours the &s;tones, and makes them look, when wet, like fine <HI>Turquoi&s;es.</HI> And the vapour of the Bath hanging up|on the Mo&s;s on the &s;ides, gives it an Amber or Gold co|lour. The Phy&s;icians of <HI>Vienna</HI> have given a good ac|count concerning the u&s;e of the&s;e Baths in <HI>High-dutch.</HI> Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone, out of which a great part of <HI>Vienna</HI> is built. The Stones being large they cut and &s;quare them at the Quarry.</P>
<P>From hence I proceeded to the <HI>New&s;idler-&s;ea</HI> or <HI>Lake,</HI> &s;o called from <HI>New&s;idle,</HI> which is a Town &s;eated upon the Northern part of it, con&s;i&s;ting of one &s;treet and &s;ome back-hou&s;es, and a &s;mall, &s;quare, old Ca&s;tle upon a Hill, from whence I had a good pro&s;pect over the Lake. It is about three <HI>German</HI> miles broad, and &s;even miles long. The faire&s;t Lake in the&s;e parts, affording plenty of Fi&s;h; encompa&s;&s;ed and thickly &s;et about with &s;mall Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at lea&s;t not con&s;iderable, running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of <HI>New&s;idle</HI> they dig out a black earth, out of which they make <HI>Salt peter.</HI> In this Journey, not far from <HI>Himburg,</HI> we pa&s;&s;ed by a place called <HI>Rauckward,</HI> which, though it &s;eems not high, looks over a great part of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> and as far as <HI>Brin,</HI> the &s;econd City of <HI>Moravia,</HI> a part al&s;o of the Kingdom of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and a part of the Kingdom of <HI>Hungaria.</HI> I went afterwards four <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles up the Stream of the <HI>Danube,</HI> to &s;ee a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called <HI>Altenburg.</HI> The beds, rows, or ca&s;es of the Stones lye not horizontally, but rather elevated Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always &s;o regularly placed, but rather follow the &s;hape of the Hill, and according to that are differently
<PB N="104" REF="58"> &s;ituated. Here I al&s;o ob&s;erved a Sub&s;tance between a Clay and a Stone called <HI>Leber&s;tein,</HI> or <HI>Liver&s;tone;</HI> and upon many of the&s;e Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though not &s;o deep or neat as upon the Stones by <HI>Florence;</HI> yet very prettily marked, and often with broader Leaves than I had el&s;ewhere ob&s;erved. I pa&s;&s;ed forward to <HI>Clo&s;ter-Neuburg,</HI> a Town mo&s;t of it belonging to that notable rich Mona&s;tery &s;eated here, founded by St. <HI>Leopoldus</HI> Marque&s;s of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> and &s;ince much enriched by &s;ucceeding Donations.</P>
<P><HI>Matthaeus Merian</HI> hath a goodcut of the Pro&s;pect of the <HI>Danube</HI> here abouts, and in what manner it pa&s;&s;eth down|wards between the two great Hills of <HI>Kalenburg</HI> and <HI>Bi&s;n|burg.</HI> Upon one Peak of <HI>Kalenburg</HI> live divers <HI>Camal|dulen&s;es,</HI> of an Order the mo&s;t &s;evere of any, living mo&s;t upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of <HI>Hermites.</HI> Near their Cells they had paved the ground with tho&s;e Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the &s;hapes of Trees and Plants.</P>
<P>After an open Autumn there followed a &s;harp Winter at <HI>Vienna,</HI> in the months of <HI>December</HI> and <HI>January.</HI> The branches of the <HI>Danube</HI> were &s;oon frozen over. The main Stream, by rea&s;on of its &s;wift Current, held out longer, but was afterwards al&s;o frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen; but I could not make any regular Ob&s;ervation thereof. This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, afforded hand&s;ome Recreations unto men, and &s;ome unto the Ladies, in running Cour&s;es in hand&s;ome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived in the &s;hape of <HI>Gryphins, Tigers, Swans, Scallop Shells, Dolphins, Peacocks,</HI> and the like Curio&s;ities, carved, paint|ed, and gilded. The Lady &s;its in one of the&s;e, richly ha|bited
<PB N="105" REF="58"> in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, &s;et off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables. The Sled is drawn by a Hor&s;e, dre&s;&s;ed up with Feathers of all co|lours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments: one or more Pages ride by on Hor&s;e-back with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they perform their Cour&s;e upon the frozen Snow about the &s;treets of <HI>Vienna</HI> in the night, with good &s;peed one after another. A Gentleman &s;its behind the Lady and guides the Hor&s;e. But the Fro&s;t breaking up put an end to the&s;e Recreations. The Fro&s;t began and ended here the &s;ame day that it began and end|ed in <HI>England.</HI></P>
<P>The Fe&s;tivity of <HI>Chri&s;tmas</HI> was ob&s;erved much after the &s;ame Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in <HI>Italy.</HI> On <HI>Chri&s;tmas-day</HI> the Emperour dined publickly, attend|ed with many Nobles and great Per&s;ons, and three re|markable low Dwarfs. Upon St. <HI>Stephens-day</HI> he went to the Cathedral of St. <HI>Stephen,</HI> and went up to the Altar, kneeled, and ki&s;&s;ed the Plate whereon the <HI>Ho&s;tia</HI> had lain. At the <HI>Epiphany</HI> or <HI>Twelfth-tide,</HI> the old cu&s;tome of choo|&s;ing King and Queen was ob&s;erved at Court. Count <HI>Le&s;ley</HI> happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath, and the Empre&s;s filled out Wine, together with other old Cu&s;tomes.</P>
<P>Before <HI>Chri&s;tmas</HI> there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occa&s;ion of a Marriage: For Count <HI>Serau,</HI> Governour of <HI>Gratz</HI> in <HI>Styria,</HI> married a natural Daughter of <HI>Philip</HI> the Fourth, King of <HI>Spain,</HI> which was ob&s;erved with many noble Solemnities and Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were &s;o &s;ub|&s;tantially &s;plendid, that I was much &s;urpri&s;ed there|at.</P>
<PB N="106" REF="59">
<P>This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of <HI>Draun,</HI> who was Colonel of the Forces in <HI>Vienna,</HI> and who had one of the noble&s;t Hou&s;es in the City; his Corps was brought out of <HI>Italy,</HI> and interred in the <HI>Dominican</HI> Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar, there was rai&s;ed for him a <HI>Ca&s;trum Do|loris,</HI> hand&s;omely contrived and &s;et round with white Wax Torches and Candles.</P>
<P>While I was in <HI>Vienna,</HI> the Empre&s;s <HI>Margarita</HI> was delivered of a Daughter, which was Chri&s;tned by the Name of <HI>Maria, Antonina, Jo&s;epha, Benedicta, Ro&s;alia, Petronella,</HI> but &s;he lived not many months. When the Empre&s;s came abroad, &s;he brought the Child to the <HI>Au|gu&s;tines</HI> Church, where Cardinal <HI>Carlo Caraffa,</HI> the Pope's Nuncio, received it, ble&s;&s;ed it, and laid it upon the Altar.</P>
<P>During my &s;tay here, the Election was in readine&s;s for a King of <HI>Poland,</HI> after the voluntary re&s;ignation of that Crown by King <HI>Ca&s;imir;</HI> and Couriers often pa&s;&s;ed be|tween that Country and this. There were Competitors the <HI>Czar</HI> of <HI>Mu&s;covy</HI>'s Son, the Duke of <HI>Newburg,</HI> and the Prince of <HI>Lorrain.</HI> The <HI>French</HI> moved actively for the Duke of <HI>Newburg,</HI> the Emperour for the Prince of <HI>Lorrain,</HI> who was then at <HI>Vienna,</HI> in great favour with the Emperour, who greatly promoted his intere&s;t; a Per&s;on of great e&s;teem, and who, if General <HI>Lubomirski</HI> had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all pro|bability might have obtained the Crown; and thereupon it was conceived that he &s;hould have married the Emper|our's Si&s;ter. But the <HI>Poles</HI> made choice of one of their own Country, who was no Competitor, <HI>Michael Wi&s;no|witski,</HI> lately decea&s;ed, who al&s;o married the Si&s;ter of the Emperour.</P>
<PB N="107" REF="59">
<P>When I was here, there were many Amba&s;&s;adours of Note, <HI>Don Baltha&s;ar de la Cueva,</HI> Marqui&s;s of <HI>Malagon,</HI> and brother to the Viceroy of <HI>Naples,</HI> was Amba&s;&s;adour for <HI>Spain.</HI> Cardinal <HI>Carlo Caraffa</HI> was the Pope's Nuncio. The <HI>Venetian</HI> Amba&s;&s;adour Extraordinary, &s;olicited for a&s;&s;i&s;tance for <HI>Candia,</HI> and he obtained the Regiment of <HI>Porcia</HI> under Marqui&s;s <HI>Pio.</HI> Count <HI>Souches</HI> the younger, who was Governour of <HI>Leopold&s;tadt,</HI> and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition. The <HI>Turks</HI> gave a&s;&s;urance of the <HI>Grand Signor</HI>'s intention to maintain the Peace inviolably; and reque&s;ted the Em|perour not to a&s;&s;i&s;t the <HI>Venetians</HI> or <HI>Tran&s;ilvanians,</HI> nor to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Em|perour of <HI>Mu&s;covy</HI>'s Son to the Crown of <HI>Poland.</HI> The Bi&s;hop of <HI>Beziers,</HI> &s;ent by the King of <HI>France</HI> to the E|lection of the King of <HI>Poland,</HI> came not hither, but pa&s;|&s;ed through <HI>Nurenburg,</HI> where I lodged at the &s;ame Inn: They were generally here again&s;t the <HI>French</HI> Intere&s;t, and &s;o were a great part of the <HI>Poli&s;h</HI> Nobility. An Amba&s;&s;a|dour came al&s;o from the <HI>Cham</HI> of <HI>Tartary,</HI> to confirm a Peace, and afford mutual A&s;&s;i&s;tance upon occa&s;ion. <HI>Cha Gagi Aga</HI> was the Amba&s;&s;adour, who brought a Pre&s;ent of the be&s;t <HI>Tartarian</HI> Hor&s;es, which are of high e&s;teem for &s;wiftne&s;s, hardine&s;s, boldne&s;s in pa&s;&s;ing frozen Ri|vers, and taking and &s;wimming over great Streams. He was di&s;mi&s;&s;ed with noble Pre&s;ents of Plate. The Em|perour pre&s;ented the <HI>Cham</HI> of Tartary with a fair Silver Ba&s;on and Ewer, and a curious Watch; and &s;ent Pre&s;ents unto the <HI>Chammine</HI> his Wife,; and al&s;o to his Si&s;ter and four Brothers. His Followers were &s;tout men, of good &s;tature, cour&s;e Complexions, wearing long furr'd Ve&s;ts and Calpack's, or furr'd Caps. Some of them had &s;ilver Rings with the &s;ame Signatures of the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> Seales. They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes. Their
<PB N="108" REF="60"> Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry. They went about wandring and gazing at mo&s;t things, as Chur|ches, Hou&s;es, Shops: And took much delight to be in the Fair, where they would take much notice of &s;mall trifles. Yet the&s;e are the men that make &s;uch &s;ad Incur|&s;ions into the Ea&s;tern parts of <HI>Europe,</HI> and carrying away &s;o many thou&s;ands, &s;ell them to the <HI>Turks,</HI> and &s;o repair the defect of People in <HI>Turky.</HI> And now after the Con|&s;umption of men in <HI>Con&s;tantinople,</HI> and the Country about by the Plague, are like to be active in that Trade, ho|ping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and De|predations.</P>
<P>There are divers <HI>Greeks</HI> who trade to <HI>Vienna,</HI> and ma|ny live in the Town, among which I met with three con|&s;iderable per&s;ons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced from his Convent by the <HI>Turk,</HI> upon &s;u&s;picion that he cor|re&s;ponded with tho&s;e of <HI>Candia.</HI> Another who went by the name of <HI>Con&s;tantinus Catacuzenos,</HI> and was of the Blood Royal of the <HI>Catacuzeni.</HI> The third was <HI>Jeremi|as</HI> a <HI>Greek</HI> Prie&s;t, who had travelled through <HI>Italy</HI> and <HI>France</HI> into <HI>England,</HI> and from thence through the <HI>Low-Countries</HI> and <HI>Germany</HI> to <HI>Vienna,</HI> and intended for <HI>Con|&s;tantinople.</HI> He came into <HI>England</HI> to enquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was fir&s;t taken by an <HI>Algerine,</HI> and afterwards by an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> man of war in the <HI>Levant.</HI> He was very kindly u&s;ed in <HI>England,</HI> and particu|larly at <HI>Cambridge.</HI> He did a great deal of honour at <HI>Vienna</HI> unto the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Nation, declaring that they were the mo&s;t civil, generous, and learned people he had met with in all his Travels, and that he no where found &s;o many who could &s;peak or under&s;tand <HI>Greek,</HI> or who gave him &s;o good &s;atisfaction in all parts of Knowledge: And as a te&s;timony of his re&s;pect and gratitude, reque&s;ted me to enclo&s;e a <HI>Greek</HI> Letter unto Dr. <HI>Pier&s;on,</HI> now Lord
<PB N="109" REF="60"> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Che&s;ter,</HI> and Dr. <HI>Barrow,</HI> now Ma&s;ter of <HI>Tri|nity Colledge</HI> in <HI>Cambridge.</HI></P>
<P>Mo&s;t men live here plentifully, there being abundance of all provi&s;ion. They have great quantity of Corn, which upon Scarcity, by the help of the <HI>Danube,</HI> might be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country affordeth &s;uch plenty of wine, that they &s;end a con&s;ide|rable quantity up the River. They have al&s;o rich wines out of <HI>Hungary</HI> and <HI>Italy,</HI> and &s;uch variety, that there are more than thirty &s;everal &s;orts of Wine to be &s;old in <HI>Vien|na.</HI> They are not al&s;o without good Beer. <HI>Hal&s;tadt</HI> in <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> affordeth them Salt, where they make it by letting in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain, where it drinketh in the Salt of the Earth, and is afterwards let out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the Emperor, and therefore the <HI>Hungarian</HI> Salt is not permit|ted to be brought higher than <HI>Pre&s;burg.</HI> They have al&s;o plenty of Sheep and Oxen; but for Oxen at pre&s;ent they are al&s;o &s;upplied from <HI>Hungary,</HI> nor only from the Coun|tries in the Emperours Dominions, but from the Turki&s;h parts, by permi&s;&s;ion of the <HI>Grand Signor;</HI> and they are brought hither by the Ea&s;tern Company of <HI>Vienna.</HI> They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like that of Veni&s;on with us. They want not Hares, Rab|bets, Partridges, Phea&s;ants. A Fowl called <HI>Ha&s;enhendal,</HI> or <HI>Gallina Corylorum,</HI> is much e&s;teemed by them, which made me the more wonder to meet with &s;ome odde di&s;hes at their Tables; as <HI>Guiny-pigs,</HI> divers &s;orts of <HI>Snails,</HI> and <HI>Tortoi&s;es.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Danube,</HI> and many Rivers which run into it, afford them plenty of Fi&s;h, extraordinary <HI>Carps, Trouts, Ten|ches, Pikes, Eels,</HI> &s;everal &s;orts of <HI>Lampries,</HI> and many Fi&s;hes finely coloured; the white Fi&s;h, <HI>Crevi&s;es</HI> very large; the be&s;t come out of the River <HI>Swechet,</HI> not far
<PB N="110" REF="61"> from <HI>Vienna.</HI> They have al&s;o that &s;ub&s;tantial large fi&s;h, called a <HI>Scheiden,</HI> or <HI>Silurus Ge&s;neri,</HI> larger than <HI>Pike, Salmon,</HI> or any of our River Fi&s;hes; but the great Fi&s;hes called <HI>Hau&s;ons,</HI> or <HI>Hu&s;ones,</HI> in <HI>John&s;tonus,</HI> for largene&s;s ex|ceed all others; &s;ome being twenty foot long. Some think this to be the &s;ame Fi&s;h which <HI>Aelian</HI> nameth <HI>An|tacetus,</HI> and &s;peaketh largely of the fi&s;hing for them in <HI>I&s;ter.</HI> I was at the fi&s;hing places for <HI>Hau&s;ons</HI> in <HI>Schut</HI> I&s;land, between <HI>Pre&s;burg</HI> and <HI>Komara,</HI> for they come not u&s;ually higher, e&s;pecially in &s;hoals; and it is much that they come &s;o high, for they are conceived to come out of the <HI>Euxine-&s;ea,</HI> and &s;o up the &s;tream. They eat them both fre&s;h and &s;alted; they ta&s;te mo&s;t like <HI>Sturgeon.</HI> It is a Cartilagineous Fi&s;h, con&s;i&s;ting of gri&s;tles, and they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back, which being dried &s;erveth for a whip. When they fi&s;h for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where they go by the moving of the water. From <HI>Venice</HI> they are &s;upplied with Oy&s;ters, with &s;alt <HI>Sturgeon,</HI> and &s;ome|times with red <HI>Herrings,</HI> and great variety of other Fi&s;hes pickled up: as al&s;o with <HI>Oranges, Limons,</HI> and other Fruits. Ob&s;erving much freedom, mu&s;ick, and jollity in the City. I wondered how they could content them|&s;elves without Plays, for there were few while I was there, till the Players came hither out of <HI>Saxony,</HI> and a|cted here for a time. The Je&s;uites would &s;ometimes en|tertain the Emperour and Empre&s;s with a Comedy at their Colledge; and I had once the favour to be at one when they were pre&s;ent.</P>
<P>But they have Dancing and Fencing often, and every <HI>Holy-day</HI> after dinner, the people flock to &s;ome Inns where there is Dancing in the inward Rooms, and Fencing and Playing of Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard; and at the Windows, or from the Galleries, behold the Fencers
<FIGURE>
<PB REF="61">
<PB REF="62">
<FIGDESC>depictions of four fish</FIGDESC>
<P>Rutten out of the Danube</P>
<P>Koppen</P>
<P>Grondel</P>
<P>Bi&s;curn</P>
<BYLINE>I. Oliuer Fe.</BYLINE>
</FIGURE>
<PB REF="63">
<PB N="111" REF="63"> playing at &s;everal Weapons; and commonly pa&s;s the re&s;t of the day in delights and merry Company.</P>
<P>In Trea&s;on and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Malefactor, and his Head immediately after. I &s;aw a Woman beheaded &s;itting in a Chair, the Executioner &s;triking off her Head with a Fore-blow, &s;he behaved her &s;elf well, and was accompanied unto the Market place by the <HI>Confraternity</HI> of the <HI>Dead,</HI> who have a charitable care of &s;uch Per&s;ons, and are not of any Religious Order, but <HI>Lay men,</HI> among whom al&s;o in this place there are many Fraternities and Orders; as of the <HI>Holy Virgin,</HI> of the <HI>Holy Cro&s;s</HI> and others. Another per&s;on al&s;o executed after the &s;ame manner; as &s;oon as his Head fell to the ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran &s;peedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the Blood yet &s;pouting out of his Neck, he pre&s;ently drank it off, and ran away; and this he did as a Remedy again&s;t the <HI>Falling Sickne&s;s.</HI> I have read of &s;ome who have ap|proved the &s;ame Medicine; and heard of others who have done the like in <HI>Germany.</HI> And <HI>Gel&s;us</HI> takes notice, that in his time &s;ome Epileptical per&s;ons did drink the Blood of the <HI>Gladiatours.</HI> But many Phy&s;icians have, in all times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I &s;tay after|wards &s;o long as to know the effect thereof, as to the in|tended cure. But mo&s;t men looked upon it as of great uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who &s;uffer no Blood to come into their Lips, mu&s;t mo&s;t di&s;like it.</P>
<P>At <HI>Pre&s;burg</HI> they have a &s;trange way of Execution, &s;till u&s;ed at <HI>Metz,</HI> and &s;ome other places, by a Maid, or En|gine like a Maid finely dre&s;&s;ed up with her hands before her. The Malefactor &s;alutes her fir&s;t, and then retireth. But at his &s;econd &s;alute &s;he openeth her hands and cuts his Heart in &s;under.</P>
<PB N="112" REF="64">
<P>Though the Winter was &s;harp, yet the advantage of Stoves, and lying between two Feather-beds, made it tolerable: For they u&s;e Stoves here as in other parts of <HI>Germany,</HI> where they lodge and eat in Stoves; and great Per&s;ons have Stoves in the Church, or &s;uch as look into the Church. There are Stoves al&s;o in the publick Schools where Lectures are read. And this way of ly|ing between two Feather-beds, with a neat laced &s;heet &s;pread over, is more convenient in a cold Country, than mo&s;t others they make u&s;e of. For in the common Inns in <HI>Germany</HI> they generally &s;leep upon Straw, and al&s;o in <HI>Hungary</HI> almo&s;t every where; and more Ea&s;terly upon the ground, &s;preading a Carpet or Saddle-cloath under them: and more Northerly they content them&s;elves with the Skins of Bea&s;ts, <HI>Bears, Elks,</HI> or the like; upon which they &s;leep in the night. Tho&s;e that &s;leep lowe&s;t are coole&s;t in a Stove; tho&s;e that lye upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more expo&s;ed to the heat. The Citizens of <HI>Vienna</HI> are well attired, and u&s;e Furs very much. The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced there|with. The Place &s;eemed to be healthful; but they &s;peak much of the <HI>Colica Au&s;triaca,</HI> as an Endemial and Local Di&s;ea&s;e, very hardly yielding unto good <HI>Medicines.</HI> They &s;peak good <HI>German</HI> at the Court and in the City; but the Common and Country people &s;eemed to &s;peak grumb|lingly, and be&s;ides their accent, have divers words different from other parts.</P>
<P>They have a Cu&s;tome upon St. <HI>Nicholas-day</HI> to put &s;ome &s;mall Gift into the Childrens &s;hoes; among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower gilded and &s;ilvered over, yet &s;carce worth a penny. They &s;ell <HI>Trochies</HI> or <HI>Tablets</HI> in the Markets, made of the pulpe of the Fruit of <HI>Hip-briar,</HI> made &s;harp with <HI>Spirit</HI> of <HI>Sul|phur,</HI> very refre&s;hing. Some carry about them a <HI>Thunder|&s;tone,</HI>
<PB N="113" REF="64"> as a defence again&s;t Thunder: and they rub their Chil|drens Gums with a <HI>Wolfs</HI> tooth in&s;tead of <HI>Coral.</HI></P>
<P>When I was at <HI>Venice</HI> in the time of the <HI>Carnival,</HI> I ob|&s;erved many Recreations and Shews, as Rope-dancing, flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulls-necks with Swords, and many other. But at <HI>Vienna</HI> a notable trick which I &s;aw there plea&s;ed me much: A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Brea&s;t, as much as two men could well lift, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, un|til they had given almo&s;t an hundred blows, and cut in &s;un|der a great Hor&s;hoe of iron, about half an inch thick.</P>
<P>Here is no Chri&s;tian Religion publickly permitted but the <HI>Roman,</HI> and therefore tho&s;e of the <HI>Prote&s;tant</HI> and <HI>Re|formed Religion</HI> are fain to re&s;ort unto <HI>Pre&s;burg,</HI> Forty miles off, for which they have &s;ome convenience by the <HI>Danube,</HI> and a <HI>Coach</HI> which goeth every day. In the time of <HI>Maximilian</HI> the Second, they were permitted the Ex|erci&s;e of their Religion in the Church of the <HI>Holy Cro&s;s,</HI> in the City of <HI>Vienna.</HI> But afterwards were prohibited by <HI>Rodolphus</HI> the Second. The Emperour <HI>Matthias</HI> gave them permi&s;&s;ion to meet at <HI>Hernals,</HI> a little more than an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> mile from <HI>Vienna;</HI> and gave leave to their <HI>Mini|&s;ters</HI> to come into the City, and there to <HI>chri&s;ten, marry, baptize,</HI> and <HI>vi&s;it</HI> the <HI>&s;ick.</HI> From which time they encrea|&s;ed very much, till <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Second, returning from the Battel of <HI>Prague,</HI> bani&s;hed their <HI>Mini&s;ter</HI> from <HI>Vi|enna</HI> and <HI>Arnols;</HI> &s;ent the <HI>Freyherr Jorger,</HI> to whom the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Arnolds</HI> belonged, Pri&s;oner unto <HI>Lintz;</HI> and never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges and Freedom of meeting publickly in any part of <HI>lower Au&s;tria.</HI></P>
<P>But here are no &s;mall number of <HI>Jews,</HI> who have a di|&s;tinct Habitation a&s;&s;igned them over the Water. They have
<PB N="114" REF="65"> al&s;o a Street allowed them in the City for the day time, but they mu&s;t all depart at night beyond the River into the Suburbs.</P>
<P>They are much di&s;ta&s;ted by the Citizens and Trade&s;|men, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at <HI>Vienna</HI> there was a quarrel between them to an high degree. For the <HI>Scholars</HI> a&s;&s;aulted the <HI>Jews</HI> Town, beat, wounded, and threw divers of them into the Ri|ver. Divers <HI>Scholars</HI> were wounded, &s;ome killed, and al&s;o &s;ome Souldiers who were commanded out to com|po&s;e the Fray: and the <HI>Jews</HI> Town was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City. This begot &s;uch ill Blood and Complaints; that a good number of the <HI>Jews</HI> were to be bani&s;hed at a certain day. The <HI>Jews,</HI> to in|gratiate with the Empre&s;s, then with Child, pre&s;ented her with a noble <HI>Silver Cradle,</HI> but &s;he would not receive it. And there was great danger of the general bani&s;hment of them when I left that City, which was afterwards effe|cted, they being &s;everely prohibited from living, not on|ly at <HI>Vienna,</HI> but in any part of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> where there were formerly whole Villages of them, &s;o as they were forced to betake them&s;elves into the Dominions of the <HI>Turk,</HI> unto <HI>Venice,</HI> into <HI>Poland</HI> and <HI>Bohemia.</HI> They be|ing not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of <HI>Hungary</HI> &s;ubject to the Emperour, <HI>Styria,</HI> or <HI>Carinthia.</HI></P>
<P>I mu&s;t confe&s;s they &s;eemed u&s;eful unto the place for rea|dy accommodation of any thing, either by &s;ale or ex|change, but the people looked with an evil eye upon them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employ|ment. They al&s;o looked upon them as u&s;ele&s;s in war for defence of the place; and were not without &s;ome jealou|&s;ie that they held corre&s;pondence with the <HI>Turks,</HI> and gave Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Souldiery dealt much with them, and Captains for the &s;uddain ha|biting,
<PB N="115" REF="65"> furni&s;hing, and accommodating of their Compa|nies. And dining one day with a Commander at a <HI>Jews</HI> Hou&s;e, among&s;t other Di&s;cour&s;e I asked the <HI>Jew</HI> con|cerning the <HI>ten Tribes,</HI> and where they were? He &s;aid <HI>they were far off in</HI> A&s;ia, <HI>beyond a great Lake which was continually &s;tormy, and &s;carce pa&s;&s;able, but upon their Sab|bath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel.</HI></P>
<P>I have &s;een their <HI>Circumci&s;ion</HI> at <HI>Rome, Padua,</HI> and o|ther parts. Their <HI>Phy&s;icians</HI> ordinarily profe&s;s great skill in <HI>Urines;</HI> and the common people re&s;ort unto them rather than unto <HI>Chri&s;tians,</HI> and are &s;o credulous, and have &s;uch an opinion of them, that they might be made to believe they have &s;ome old <HI>Receipts</HI> of King <HI>Solomon.</HI></P>
<P>There are many <HI>Jews</HI> in <HI>Italy,</HI> yet they &s;eem to me to be in greater numbers in <HI>Germany.</HI> In <HI>Am&s;terdam</HI> they are al&s;o grown very numerous. At <HI>Franckfurt</HI> they told me there were &s;even thou&s;and of them, which &s;eemed &s;carce credible. At <HI>Colen</HI> they are in great numbers: at <HI>Ham|burg</HI> not a few. But the greate&s;t number &s;urely is in <HI>Prague.</HI></P>
<P>Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet di|vers <HI>Chri&s;tian Princes</HI> and <HI>States</HI> have a&s;&s;igned them &s;ome mark in their <HI>Habits,</HI> to di&s;tingui&s;h them. In <HI>Avignon</HI> their <HI>Hats</HI> are <HI>yellow.</HI> In <HI>Italy</HI> their <HI>Hats</HI> are covered o|ver with <HI>Taffate.</HI> In <HI>Germany</HI> they wear <HI>Ruffs</HI> and <HI>Gowns</HI> with great <HI>Capes.</HI> In <HI>Holland</HI> I ob&s;erved no di&s;tinction. But the <HI>Jews</HI> there, mo&s;t of them having come out of <HI>Portugal,</HI> there may be &s;ome &s;u&s;picion of them from their Complexion.</P>
<P>La&s;tly, when I con&s;ider the old &s;trength of <HI>Vienna,</HI> con&s;i&s;ting in an old <HI>wall</HI> and a deep <HI>ditch,</HI> I cannot much wonder that <HI>Matthias Corvinus,</HI> King of <HI>Hungary,</HI> took this City. And I mu&s;t a&s;cribe it, under God, unto the &s;ingular valour and re&s;olution of the Defendants, that
<PB N="116" REF="66"> <HI>Solyman</HI> the Magnificent, with two hundred thou&s;and men, was not able to take it, and though he made large brea|ches, could never enter it, but lo&s;t &s;ome thou&s;ands at an A&s;&s;ault, and departed at la&s;t with the lo&s;s of a great part of his Army. But this place is now in a far better con|dition, &s;trongly fortified, and able to re&s;i&s;t the greate&s;t Forces of <HI>Turky.</HI> The <HI>hou&s;es</HI> are cleared from the <HI>wall;</HI> and yet for better &s;ecurity, when I was there, Count <HI>Souches</HI> advi&s;ed the Emperour to pull down part of the <HI>Suburbs</HI> upon the other &s;ide of the neare&s;t branch of the <HI>Danube,</HI> le&s;t the <HI>Turks</HI> might take advantage to play up|on the two <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> on that &s;ide.</P>
<P>It would be a &s;ad lo&s;s for <HI>Chri&s;tendome</HI> if this place were in the hands of the <HI>Turk;</HI> and no man knows where he would re&s;t. If he &s;hould begin with this place, and take it, the &s;trong holds of <HI>Rab, Komara,</HI> and <HI>Leopold|&s;tadt</HI> would want their &s;upport, and &s;oon fall into his po&s;|&s;e&s;&s;ion; and if he were Lord of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> a great part of <HI>Germany</HI> would lye bare unto him: and probably it would not be long before he vi&s;ited <HI>Italy,</HI> into which Country he would then find other ways than by <HI>Palma nova.</HI></P>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="account">
<PB N="117" REF="66">
<HEAD>A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA IN AUSTRIA TO HAMBURG.</HEAD>
<P>_TAking a farewel of the <HI>Imperial City</HI> of <HI>Vienna,</HI> I ordered my <HI>Journey</HI> for <HI>Prague</HI> in <HI>Bohemia,</HI> which is u&s;ually &s;ix days Journey by Coach in the <HI>Summer,</HI> and eight in the <HI>Winter.</HI> I went over the great Bridge of <HI>Vien|na,</HI> upon the large Stream of the <HI>Danube,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by the <HI>Chappel</HI> of St. <HI>Bridget,</HI> of an eight-&s;quare Figure. This <HI>Bridge</HI> is a
<PB N="118" REF="67"> very great and ma&s;&s;y work, &s;upported by many high <HI>Trees,</HI> and <HI>Timber,</HI> and hath between two and three thou|&s;and <HI>Trees</HI> laid upon it cro&s;s, or &s;ide by &s;ide, from one &s;ide of the <HI>Bridge</HI> to the other, for the pa&s;&s;age over it, af|ter the <HI>German</HI> manner of making <HI>Bridges.</HI> At <HI>Rati&s;bone</HI> there is a hand&s;ome <HI>Stone-bridge</HI> over the <HI>Danube,</HI> and between that place and <HI>Vienna,</HI> divers of <HI>Wood;</HI> but from <HI>Vienna</HI> to <HI>Belgrade</HI> I ob&s;erved none but what were made with <HI>Boats.</HI></P>
<P>Having pa&s;&s;ed the <HI>River,</HI> I entred into the <HI>Tran&s;-Danubian Au&s;tria,</HI> or that part of <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> which lieth between the <HI>Danube</HI> and the River <HI>Theya,</HI> and came unto <HI>Corneuburg,</HI> a pretty Town, about which place the Em|perour often hunteth; it is near the Hill <HI>Bi&s;neberg,</HI> which is oppo&s;ite unto <HI>Kalenberg.</HI> The <HI>Swedes</HI> advanced far when they took this place in the la&s;t wars, and held it &s;o well, that they were not ea&s;ily forced out of it. From thence I came to <HI>Stockerau,</HI> near the mouth of the River <HI>Mida,</HI> where it runneth into the <HI>Danube.</HI> A place much noted for the death of St. <HI>Colman</HI> a <HI>Scotch</HI> Saint, highly honoured in the&s;e parts. From thence to <HI>Gunter&s;dorff,</HI> &s;o to <HI>Colnedorff</HI> or <HI>Koldorff,</HI> which although it be on the South of the River <HI>Theya,</HI> is accounted the fir&s;t <HI>Village</HI> of <HI>Moravia,</HI> and then came unto <HI>Znaim.</HI></P>
<P>In all this part of <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> which extendeth a great length on the North-&s;ide of the <HI>Danube,</HI> conceived to have been anciently inhabited by the <HI>Marcomanni</HI> and <HI>Quadi,</HI> there are few or no <HI>Towns</HI> of <HI>antiquity, large|ne&s;s,</HI> or <HI>note;</HI> for the <HI>Romans</HI> made their Stations and Colonies upon the South-&s;ide of the <HI>Danube;</HI> but the Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the chiefe&s;t Towns is <HI>Crembs,</HI> which &s;ome call <HI>Cremona Au|&s;triae,</HI> which I &s;aw as I came down the <HI>Danube.</HI> A great part of this Country was notably harra&s;&s;ed and plunder|ed
<PB N="119" REF="67"> by the <HI>Swedes.</HI> The <HI>Soyl</HI> is light, and ea&s;ie to be ploughed.</P>
<P><HI>Znaim</HI> is a hand&s;ome place, with many painted Hou&s;es in it, and accounted the fourth chief <HI>Town</HI> in <HI>Mahren,</HI> or <HI>Moravia; Olm&uuml;tz, Br&uuml;n,</HI> and <HI>Iglaw</HI> being the other three, famous for the death of the Emperour <HI>Sigi&s;|mund.</HI> It is &s;eated by the River <HI>Theya,</HI> which divideth <HI>Moravia</HI> from <HI>Au&s;tria,</HI> and running at la&s;t into the River <HI>Mark,</HI> affordeth accommodation of pa&s;&s;age into the <HI>Da|nube.</HI></P>
<P>From thence we pa&s;&s;ed by <HI>Ulverskirken, Paulitz,</HI> and <HI>Moravian Budwei&s;&s;e</HI> to <HI>Zimmaw,</HI> and by <HI>Byrnitz</HI> came to <HI>Igla,</HI> or <HI>Iglau,</HI> upon the River <HI>Igla,</HI> which at la&s;t run|neth into the great River <HI>Marck,</HI> a very plea&s;ant place, &s;eated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of <HI>Bohemia.</HI> It is well fortified <HI>&agrave; la moderna,</HI> upon one &s;ide, and hath one of the large&s;t <HI>Piazza</HI>'s that I have &s;een.</P>
<P><HI>Moravia,</HI> is a plea&s;ant and fruitful Country affording plenty of nece&s;&s;aries for life; the people are plain-dealing, &s;tout, and make good Souldiers. It is commodiou&s;ly furni&s;hed with Rivers, the greate&s;t whereof is the <HI>Mora</HI> or <HI>Marck,</HI> which ari&s;ing in the Northern part thereof, runneth quite through the Country, and entreth the <HI>Do|naw</HI> not far from <HI>Pre&s;burg.</HI> The other con&s;iderable Streams are the <HI>Theya</HI> or <HI>Thai&s;a,</HI> the <HI>Swarta,</HI> the <HI>Schwitta,</HI> which run into the <HI>Marck.</HI> In the la&s;t <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> wars the <HI>Tartars</HI> having pa&s;&s;ed the <HI>Wag</HI> in <HI>Hungaria,</HI> made incur&s;i|ons into <HI>Moravia,</HI> and carried away &s;ome thou&s;ands of the Inhabitants.</P>
<P>Leaving <HI>Igla,</HI> we &s;oon came into <HI>Bohemia,</HI> fir&s;t coming into <HI>Stecken,</HI> then to <HI>Teutchin Broda</HI> by the River <HI>Sac|zua,</HI> formerly a &s;trong place, taken by <HI>Zi&s;ca</HI> the famous <HI>Bohemian General,</HI> who then forced the Emperour <HI>Sigi&s;|mund</HI> to fly out of <HI>Bohemia</HI> by the way of <HI>Igla.</HI> From
<PB N="120" REF="68"> thence we came to <HI>Heberne,</HI> and &s;o to <HI>Janikaw:</HI> At this place, upon the <HI>24th</HI> of <HI>February,</HI> 1643. was fought that memorable Battel between the <HI>Swedes,</HI> commanded by <HI>Leonard Tor&s;ten&s;on,</HI> and the <HI>Imperiali&s;ts</HI> under Count <HI>Hatzfield, Goetz,</HI> and other <HI>Commanders.</HI> The <HI>Imperi|ali&s;ts</HI> had the better at fir&s;t; but falling upon the Enemies Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were de|feated, three thou&s;and &s;lain, four thou&s;and taken pri&s;on|ners, with their General <HI>Hatzfield,</HI> and &s;ix or &s;even Colo|nels. The &s;ucce&s;s hereof gave the <HI>Swedes</HI> advantage to proceed further, and into <HI>Sile&s;ia</HI> and <HI>Au&s;tria.</HI> In this Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from <HI>Schaclitz,</HI> which is not far from the <HI>Ri&s;geburg,</HI> or <HI>Mountain of Gy|ants,</HI> about the Head of the River <HI>Elbe,</HI> I enquired of him concerning the &s;pirit <HI>Riben&s;al,</HI> which is &s;aid to infe&s;t that Country, but he could &s;ay nothing therein of his own knowledge; and though he was confident that there was &s;uch a Spirit, yet he confe&s;&s;ed that for twelve years it had done no hurt. In <HI>Hills, Mountains,</HI> and places of <HI>Mines</HI> &s;uch reports are ordinary. It is reported that a Spirit haunts the <HI>Silver Mines</HI> of <HI>Brun&s;wick:</HI> And ano|ther to be in the <HI>Tinn Mine</HI> of <HI>Slackenwalde</HI> in this Coun|try of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and to walk in the &s;hape of a <HI>Monk,</HI> who &s;trikes the <HI>Miners,</HI> &s;ings and plays on the <HI>Bag-pipes,</HI> and doth many &s;uch Tricks. And <HI>Agricola</HI> in the latter end of his Sixth Book <HI>Dere Metallica,</HI> gives this for one rea&s;on why <HI>Mines,</HI> or <HI>pa&s;&s;ages</HI> in <HI>Mines,</HI> are given over.</P>
<P>From <HI>Janikaw</HI> I travelled to <HI>Cza&s;law,</HI> a good Town, and the chiefe&s;t in the <HI>Cza&s;lawer</HI> Circle: In this place they &s;ay that <HI>Zi&s;ca</HI> was buried, that famous <HI>Bohemian Ge|neral;</HI> he lo&s;t one Eye by an <HI>Arrow,</HI> and was at length blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved &s;ucce&s;sful in it. He wi&s;hed his <HI>Friends</HI> to make a <HI>Drum</HI> of his <HI>Skin,</HI> which &s;hould &s;erve to fright away their E|nemies.
<PB N="121" REF="68"> And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this place.</P>
<P>From <HI>Cza&s;law</HI> we came to <HI>Guttenberg,</HI> or <HI>Cottenberg,</HI> about eight <HI>Bohemian</HI> miles from <HI>Prague,</HI> every mile be|ing five or &s;ix <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River <HI>Albis</HI> or <HI>Elbe,</HI> of e|&s;pecal note for the <HI>Silver Mines</HI> about it: The <HI>Hills</HI> near it are not high, and con&s;equently the Mines are not &s;o deep as tho&s;e of <HI>Hungary,</HI> and &s;ome others in <HI>Germa|ny;</HI> yet &s;ome are above &s;eventy or eighty <HI>Fathoms.</HI> They have wrought at the&s;e <HI>Mines</HI> &s;even hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went down into that which was fir&s;t digged, but afterwards left for a long time, but they work there now again, it is called the <HI>Cot|na,</HI> or <HI>Auf der Cotten,</HI> upon the <HI>Cotten,</HI> or <HI>Coat-hill;</HI> and as the Story goeth, a <HI>Monk</HI> walking over this Hill found a kind of a <HI>Silver Tree</HI> &s;ticking to his Garment, which was the occa&s;ion that they afterwards digged and built the&s;e <HI>Mines,</HI> and the place retains the name of <HI>Cotten|berg.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Mine</HI> into which I de&s;cended near the Town, is but nineteen <HI>Fathoms</HI> deep; the chief <HI>Vein</HI> of the <HI>Ore</HI> runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth: the <HI>Ore</HI> holdeth or containeth in it <HI>Silver</HI> and <HI>Copper,</HI> &s;o that out of an hundred pound weight of <HI>Ore,</HI> they ordinarily get an Ounce of <HI>Silver,</HI> and eight, nine, or ten ounces or more of <HI>Copper,</HI> even to pounds, but it is not well known, for the <HI>Copper-works</HI> are the Emperours. The <HI>Undertakers</HI> get out what <HI>Silver</HI> they can, and afterwards &s;ell the <HI>Ore</HI> unto the Emperours Officers; but &s;ome <HI>Ore</HI> is &s;orich as to contain eight or nine ounces of <HI>Silver.</HI> A blew <HI>Earth</HI> which they meet with in digging, affords the be&s;t hopes of <HI>Ore.</HI> Two men lately peri&s;hed in this <HI>Mine,</HI> having made a fire in it, being either choaked with the &s;moak, or,
<PB N="122" REF="69"> as they thought, by the poy&s;onous exhalations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that <HI>Libu&s;&s;a</HI> the Prince&s;s, and reputed Sorcere&s;s of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> foretold many things concerning the&s;e <HI>Mines;</HI> but certain it is, that for the advantage and profit the&s;e bring, the Town hath &s;uffered much in many wars. The Emperour <HI>Sigi&s;|mund</HI> made ha&s;te out of it upon the approach of <HI>Zi&s;ca,</HI> and &s;eeing he could not hold it, burnt the Town; but it was &s;oon rebuilt and po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ed by <HI>Zi&s;ca,</HI> who&s;e party called it the <HI>Pur&s;e of Antichri&s;t.</HI></P>
<P>Leaving <HI>Cottenburg,</HI> I came to <HI>Colline</HI> and to <HI>Bohemi|an Broda,</HI> &s;o named to di&s;tingui&s;h it from <HI>Dutch</HI> or <HI>Teu|tonick Broda</HI> before mentioned, a con&s;iderable good Town, and from thence came to <HI>Prag,</HI> or <HI>Prague,</HI> the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of <HI>Bohemia.</HI> The <HI>Walls</HI> of this City &s;eem to enclo&s;e the greate&s;t Citcuit of ground of any I have &s;een in <HI>Germany,</HI> but the Hills and void &s;paces within it take up a large Tract, and therein it is like the City of <HI>Lyon</HI> in <HI>France;</HI> it is &s;eated upon the River <HI>Muldau,</HI> by the <HI>Bohemians</HI> named <HI>Ultaue,</HI> a large rapid River, ari&s;ing in the South part of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and before at arriveth at <HI>Prague,</HI> receiveth the River <HI>Sar&s;ua</HI> and the <HI>Watta</HI> into it; and Northward of <HI>Prague</HI> the River <HI>Egra,</HI> and joyneth with the <HI>Elbe.</HI></P>
<P>This great place con&s;i&s;teth of three Towns, named the <HI>Old,</HI> the <HI>New,</HI> and the <HI>Kleine Seitten,</HI> or <HI>le&s;&s;er Town.</HI> The <HI>old Town</HI> lieth upon the Ea&s;t of the River <HI>Muldau,</HI> is very populous, full of Buildings, private and pub|lick. Very con&s;iderable in this part is al&s;o the Univer&s;i|ty, wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one Univer&s;ity in <HI>Bohemia;</HI> many per&s;ons al&s;o re&s;orting thither from other Countries. It is &s;carce credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in <HI>Prague</HI> in former Ages, as hath been delivered by divers
<PB N="123" REF="69"> Authors. And <HI>Lewis du May,</HI> Coun&s;ellor unto the Duke of <HI>Wittenburg,</HI> affirmeth, That there are at pre&s;ent &s;carce &s;o many Students in all <HI>Germany,</HI> as there were at <HI>Prague</HI> in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty thou&s;and under the <HI>Rector&s;hip</HI> of <HI>John Hus. Charles</HI> the Fourth, Emperour, and King of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> founded the <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> of <HI>Prague,</HI> giving equal priviledges to the <HI>Bohemians, Polanders,</HI> and <HI>Germans:</HI> and when he would re|trench his favours towards Strangers, there went out of the Town in a weeks time twenty four thou&s;and Scholars, and a little after, &s;ixteen thou&s;and, whereby we may judge there were more Scholars in <HI>Prague</HI> than other per&s;ons in &s;ome great Cities. There are al&s;o in this <HI>old Town</HI> di|vers <HI>Colledges</HI> and <HI>Cloy&s;ters.</HI> The <HI>Je&s;uites</HI> have a fair, hand&s;ome <HI>Colledge,</HI> near unto the <HI>Bridge,</HI> but the <HI>Build|ings</HI> of the <HI>old Town</HI> are inferiour to tho&s;e of the <HI>le&s;&s;er Town.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>new Town</HI> is large, and together with the River, encompa&s;&s;eth the <HI>old,</HI> and is divided from it by a large <HI>Trench</HI> or <HI>Ditch,</HI> in o which they can let in the River. The <HI>Iri&s;h</HI> have a <HI>Cloy&s;ter</HI> of <HI>Franci&s;cans</HI> near unto an old <HI>Tower</HI> in the <HI>Wall</HI> of the <HI>old Town.</HI> The <HI>Je&s;uites</HI> have al&s;o be|gun a large <HI>Cloy&s;ter,</HI> which, if fini&s;hed according to its beginning and de&s;ign, will be very &s;pacious and noble. They are now making <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> about the <HI>Town</HI> at one end thereof; there is al&s;o a <HI>Citadel,</HI> but not fini&s;hed, at <HI>Wi&s;&s;e|raht,</HI> or <HI>Wi&s;&s;egrade,</HI> formerly the Seat of the Princes of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and al&s;o of the famous Prince&s;s <HI>Libu&s;&s;a,</HI> the Daughter of <HI>Crocus,</HI> and Wife unto <HI>Primi&s;laus.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Kleine Seitten,</HI> or <HI>le&s;&s;er Prague,</HI> far exceedeth the other for plea&s;antne&s;s and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces. This part lieth We&s;tward of the River <HI>Mul|daw,</HI> which between this and the <HI>old Town,</HI> is pa&s;&s;able by a &s;trong <HI>Stone-bridge,</HI> con&s;i&s;ting of &s;ixteen great Arches,
<PB N="124" REF="70"> being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end. A great part of this Town lieth high, and upon the Hill &s;tandeth <HI>Hrat&s;chin,</HI> or <HI>Upper Prague,</HI> and a Summer Hou&s;e of the Emperours, be&s;ides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperours, as King of <HI>Bohemia;</HI> and by it a fair <HI>Cathedral Church</HI> dedicated to St. <HI>Veit,</HI> fir&s;t built by St. <HI>Wence&s;laus,</HI> Duke of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> 923. from whence the Town and River is be&s;t viewed. In this Church are divers <HI>old Monuments</HI> for great Per|&s;ons; as for <HI>Pogiebrachius</HI> a <HI>Bohemian</HI> King, <HI>Wence&s;laus, Rodolphus</HI> the Second, <HI>Charles</HI> the Fourth, <HI>Ladi&s;laus, Maximilian</HI> the Second, and other <HI>Arch-Dukes</HI> and <HI>Em|perours.</HI> There are al&s;o many Hou&s;es of the <HI>Nobility</HI> in this part of the City. The Palace and Garden of <HI>Colare|do</HI> is exceeding neat, though &s;mall. But I was mo&s;t plea|&s;ed with the Palace of Count <HI>Wallen&s;teyn,</HI> Duke of <HI>Fried|land,</HI> General unto the Emperour <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Second, who being &s;u&s;pected to U&s;urp that Kingdom, was after|wards killed at <HI>Egra.</HI> This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Hou&s;es, purpo&s;ely plucked down to make room for it; wherein the Hall is large, the Gar|den hand&s;ome; upon one &s;ide whereof there is a place to manage Hor&s;es, and near unto it a Fi&s;h-pond: in ano|ther part there is a noble <HI>Aviary</HI> with a Garden and Trees in it, after the manner of the <HI>Aviary</HI> of Prince <HI>Doria</HI> at <HI>Genoa,</HI> which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad. The Stable is large, and worth the &s;eeing, wherein there is a <HI>Marble Pillar</HI> between each Hor&s;e, and for every Hor&s;e there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth a Picture of the Hor&s;e, as big as the Life, with his Name under it. Among the re&s;t, I ob&s;erved that a Bay-hor&s;e had for his Name <HI>Monte d'Oro,</HI> a Mare, <HI>Bella donna,</HI> ano|ther
<PB N="125" REF="70"> <HI>E&s;pagnoletta,</HI> and his mo&s;t beloved Hor&s;e was named <HI>Mas Querido.</HI></P>
<P>Some have thought that the be&s;t <HI>high German</HI> is &s;poken in this part of <HI>Prague;</HI> and there living &s;o many of the Nobility and great Per&s;ons, it is not to be wondred at, that their Language is better than ordinary. But the common Language of <HI>Bohemia</HI> is a Dialect of the <HI>Sclavoni|an,</HI> though very many &s;peak al&s;o <HI>High dutch,</HI> as we found in all our pa&s;&s;age through that Country. <HI>Koning&s;mark</HI> being with his Forces on the Frontiers of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> a di&s;contented Colonel of the <HI>Imperiali&s;ts</HI> came unto him, making it probable that he might &s;urprize <HI>Hrat&s;chin,</HI> and the le&s;&s;er &s;ide of <HI>Prague,</HI> which he &s;uddainly attempted, and &s;o &s;ucce&s;sfully, that he &s;urprized many Officers, and old <HI>Colaredo</HI> in his Bed, getting &s;o great a Booty, that he could &s;carce carry it away.</P>
<P>A part of <HI>Prague</HI> is inhabited by Jews, and called the <HI>Jews Town;</HI> there are no &s;mall number of them, and ma|ny rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good skill in Jewels, and &s;everal &s;orts of Stones digged out of the <HI>Mines</HI> in <HI>Bohemia:</HI> I bought &s;ome <HI>Bohemian Topazes</HI> of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and &s;ome which were very large and clear, were at the rate of &s;even or eight <HI>Dollars.</HI> During my &s;tay here, I had a great de&s;ire to have &s;aluted <HI>Johannes Marcus-Marci,</HI> a famous Phy&s;ici|an and Philo&s;opher of <HI>Prague,</HI> and al&s;o to have induced him to a Corre&s;pondence with the <HI>Royal Society,</HI> but I under&s;tood that he had left this World, to the great grief of Learned Men in the&s;e and other parts.</P>
<P>Many here do &s;peak &s;till of <HI>John Hus</HI> and <HI>Jerome</HI> of <HI>Prague,</HI> and I have &s;een <HI>Silver Medals</HI> of them. They were &s;urely very notable men; and I &s;hall only &s;et down what <HI>Aeneas Sylvius,</HI> or Pope <HI>Pius</HI> the Second &s;aid of them. <HI>Jo|hannes aetate major &amp; authoritate, doctrin&acirc; &amp; facundi&acirc; &s;u|perior
<PB N="126" REF="71"> Hieronymus, pertulerunt ambo con&s;tanti animo necem, &amp; qua&s;i ad Epulum invitati ad incendium properarunt, nul|lam emittentes vocem quae mi&s;eri animi po&s;&s;et ferre indicium: ubi ardere ceperunt, hymnum cecinere quem vix flamma &amp; fragor ignis intercipere potuit, nemo Philo&s;ophorum tam forti animo mortem pertuli&s;se traditur quam i&s;ti incendium. In Hi&s;t. Bohemica. John</HI> was or greater years and autho|rity, <HI>Jerome</HI> of more Eloquence and Learning: both of them endured their Death with great con&s;tancy, and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet: when they began to burn, they &s;ung an Hymn, which the flame and fire could &s;carce intercept. None of the old Philo&s;ophers endured their death with &s;uch a courageous mind as the&s;e the fire.</P>
<P>The &s;ame Author compareth <HI>Prague</HI> unto the City of <HI>Florence</HI> in <HI>Tu&s;cany,</HI> wherefore having &s;een both places, I cannot omit to &s;ay &s;omething. I had a view of the Ci|ty of <HI>Florence</HI> from the top of the <HI>Domo,</HI> or <HI>Cathedral,</HI> and of <HI>Prague</HI> from the Church of St. <HI>Veit,</HI> upon the Hill in the le&s;&s;er Town: <HI>Prague</HI> &s;eemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than <HI>Florence;</HI> it &s;eemed al&s;o more populous, and to exceed it very much in the number of People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces and fair Hou&s;es being of Gla&s;s, looked not &s;o tatterdly as the ragged Paper Windows of <HI>Florence.</HI> The River <HI>Arno,</HI> which runs through <HI>Florence,</HI> is not to be compa|red with the <HI>Muldau</HI> at <HI>Prague,</HI> having run about an hun|dred miles from its Head. The large, ma&s;&s;y, long Stone-Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of <HI>Flo|rence.</HI> The Emperours Palace al&s;o upon the Hill is very &s;tately: But as for the well-paved Streets of <HI>Florence,</HI> the <HI>Domo</HI> or <HI>Cathedral</HI> with black and white Marble, with a <HI>Cupola,</HI> &s;econd only to that of St. <HI>Peters</HI> of <HI>Rome,</HI> for the incomparable <HI>Chappel</HI> of St. <HI>Laurence,</HI> and the <HI>Dukes
<PB N="127" REF="71"> Gallery</HI> and <HI>Rarities,</HI> I mu&s;t confe&s;s I &s;aw not any thing in <HI>Prague</HI> which an&s;wered them. At <HI>Wei&s;&s;enberg,</HI> or the <HI>white Hill</HI> near <HI>Prague,</HI> that deciding Battel was fought <HI>Novemb.</HI> 8. 1620. between <HI>Frederick</HI> Prince <HI>Palatine</HI> of the <HI>Rhine,</HI> elected King of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and the Forces of the Emperour <HI>Ferdinand</HI> the Second, which gave &s;uch a deep blow unto the <HI>Prote&s;tant Party,</HI> wherein &s;o many of <HI>Frederick</HI>'s Forces were &s;lain and drowned in the River in their &s;light, wherein al&s;o that famous Commander <HI>Pa|penheim</HI> was found lying among the dead, who notwith|&s;tanding died not of his wounds, but was re&s;erved to end his days with the King of <HI>Sweden</HI> in the memorable Battel of <HI>Lutzen.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Prague</HI> I de&s;igned to pa&s;s by water down the <HI>Muldaw,</HI> which uniteth with the <HI>Elbe</HI> about <HI>Melnick,</HI> and &s;o down the <HI>Elbe</HI> unto <HI>Hamburg.</HI> But the Winter advan|cing, and the Weather proving cold, the Boats did not go as in Summer, and therefore I took my Journey by Land, and leaving <HI>Prague</HI> and the <HI>Muldau</HI> on the right hand, I pa&s;&s;ed the fir&s;t day to <HI>Zagethal,</HI> the next to <HI>We|luerne,</HI> and &s;o to <HI>Budin</HI> and <HI>Laba&s;itz</HI> upon the <HI>Elbe.</HI> Ha|ving pa&s;&s;ed over the <HI>Egra,</HI> a con&s;iderable River, ari&s;ing not far from the City of <HI>Egra,</HI> and at la&s;t running into the <HI>Elbe;</HI> the next day by the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Krieg&s;tein,</HI> or <HI>Warre&s;tone,</HI> &s;eated upon a high &s;teep Rock, I came to <HI>Au&s;ig,</HI> a &s;mall City not far from the <HI>Elbe,</HI> having little remarkable in it, like many other &s;mall Cities of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> and &s;o forward to <HI>Nolndorff,</HI> where we lodged upon Mount <HI>Knin&s;berg,</HI> the day after we entred into <HI>Mi&s;nia,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Peter&s;wald,</HI> and <HI>Hellendorff</HI> the fir&s;t Village in <HI>Mi&s;nia,</HI> and <HI>Ki&s;ibel,</HI> where are <HI>Iron Mines</HI> about eigh|teen Fathoms deep, and <HI>Iron works.</HI></P>
<P>We now under&s;tood that <HI>Bohemia</HI> was a larger Country than we expected; it lieth round, and &s;ome &s;ay it is three
<PB N="128" REF="72"> days po&s;tage over; others that the Diameter extendeth two hundred miles. From <HI>Igla</HI> upon the Confines unto <HI>Hellendorff,</HI> it took me nine days Journey in <HI>November</HI> by <HI>Coach,</HI> not reckoning the time I &s;taid at <HI>Prague.</HI> In many places there are very ill Pa&s;&s;ages, and &s;o rudely mended with great Trees, laid &s;ide by &s;ide, that they are often very trouble&s;ome to pa&s;s.</P>
<P>We travelled afterwards towards <HI>Dre&s;den,</HI> in a fruitful Country, wherein were many <HI>Deer</HI> in mo&s;t parts of the way, in &s;ight of the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Pilnitz,</HI> a &s;trong place, and &s;eated high. I could not but ca&s;t an eye on the <HI>Rocks</HI> behind us in the Fore&s;t of <HI>Bohemia,</HI> which looked like the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclo&s;ed <HI>Bohemia,</HI> which Country is de&s;cribed with a Fore&s;t or Woods round about it. But I confe&s;s I did not really perceive that there was &s;uch a Wood round about it as is common|ly &s;et forth in <HI>Mapps;</HI> only both within, and al&s;o in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the <HI>Hercinian Fore&s;t.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Bohemians</HI> are a &s;trong, &s;tout, and hardy People, make good Souldiers, and have made great wars both at home and abroad; and <HI>Hi&s;tories</HI> are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief <HI>Magazine</HI> of the King is at <HI>Egra,</HI> a &s;trong City, accounted the Second of <HI>Bohemia.</HI> The Country affordeth al&s;o lu&s;ty and &s;trong Hor&s;es. The common &s;ort of People are boy&s;terous, rough, and quarrel|&s;ome, e&s;pecially in drink, whereto they are too much addicted. The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Families of the Nobility, among which that of <HI>Ro&s;enberg</HI> and <HI>Popel</HI> is an|cient, and of high e&s;teem. Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by <HI>Frederick</HI> Count <HI>Palatine,</HI> and the ill &s;ucce&s;s upon it, there hath been a great alteration in this Country, both as to People and their Manners; for there|upon
<PB N="129" REF="72"> many thou&s;ands left the Kingdom, and many who re|mained, turned their Religion. And the Emperours have u&s;ed the like &s;everity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.</P>
<P>The next con&s;iderable place we came unto was <HI>Dre&s;|den</HI> in <HI>Mi&s;nia,</HI> as well worth the &s;eeing, as almo&s;t any Town in <HI>Germany. Dre&s;den</HI> is the Seat and Re&s;idence of the Elector of <HI>Saxony,</HI> &s;eated upon the River <HI>Elbe,</HI> over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Mo|dern way, the <HI>Ba&s;tions Reve&s;tues,</HI> and in each <HI>Ba&s;tion</HI> a <HI>Cavallier:</HI> It hath al&s;o a large <HI>Trench</HI> or <HI>Ditch</HI> about it, in &s;ome places double; and the River <HI>Elbe</HI> addeth unto its &s;trength. The Walls are very &s;trong: and they &s;ay, that when the fir&s;t Stone was laid to build them, there was placed in the Earth a <HI>Silver Cup</HI> gilded, a <HI>Book</HI> of the <HI>Laws,</HI> and another of <HI>Coyns,</HI> and three <HI>Gla&s;&s;es</HI> filled with <HI>Wine.</HI> It hath al&s;o three Gates. The places mo&s;t worth the &s;eeing are the&s;e: The <HI>Italian</HI> Garden in the Suburbs; the <HI>Hunters Hou&s;e</HI> in the <HI>old Town</HI> beyond the <HI>River;</HI> the <HI>Electors Palace;</HI> his <HI>Hou&s;e</HI> for <HI>wild Bea&s;ts;</HI> his <HI>Stable|hou&s;e</HI> and <HI>Ar&s;enal,</HI> of which I &s;hall &s;et down &s;ome things ob&s;ervable in their kind. In the <HI>Electors Palace,</HI> the <HI>Hall</HI> is very large, and hand&s;omely painted with Cities, Gy|ants, and the Habits of &s;everal Nations, and &s;et out with &s;even large branched Candle&s;ticks: But that which af|fordeth the greate&s;t delight is his <HI>Kun&s;tkammer, Art-Chamber,</HI> or <HI>Collection of Rarities,</HI> both of <HI>Art</HI> and <HI>Na|ture.</HI> In the fir&s;t Partition are to be &s;een all manner of well-made <HI>In&s;truments</HI> belonging to mo&s;t <HI>Trades,</HI> as <HI>Joyners, Turners, Barbers, Smiths, Chirurgeons,</HI> and o|ther <HI>Artificers: In&s;truments</HI> to force open <HI>Doors, Che&s;ts, &amp;c.</HI> In the other Chambers the&s;e and the like are ob&s;er|vable.</P>
<PB N="130" REF="73">
<P>A <HI>Tube-gla&s;s</HI> four Ells long. A large <HI>blew Turki&s;h-gla&s;s.</HI> Variety of <HI>Coral</HI> and <HI>artificial Works</HI> of it. <HI>Fowls</HI> made out of <HI>Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups</HI> in the &s;hape of <HI>Dragons, Elephants, &amp;c. Ca&s;tles</HI> of <HI>Gold</HI> and <HI>Mother of Pearl.</HI> Many <HI>Fowls</HI> and <HI>Cups</HI> made out of <HI>Nautili,</HI> and other <HI>Shells,</HI> and out of <HI>Oe&s;trich-eggs.</HI> A fine <HI>Oe&s;trich</HI> made out of its <HI>Egg,</HI> with the <HI>Feathers</HI> of <HI>Gold.</HI> A <HI>Cup</HI> made out of the <HI>Ball</HI> taken our of an <HI>Oxes Stomach,</HI> richly &s;et, about a foot long. A <HI>Stone</HI> as big as my fi&s;t, like a <HI>Bezoar-&s;tone,</HI> taken out of a <HI>Hor&s;e.</HI> A <HI>Pur&s;e</HI> made out of the <HI>Linum Incombu&s;tibile. Silver Ore</HI> from the <HI>Mines</HI> of <HI>Freiberg,</HI> almo&s;t pure, in <HI>&s;trings</HI> and <HI>&s;hoots.</HI> A Natural <HI>Cro&s;s</HI> of <HI>Silver Ore.</HI> One hundred and twenty one <HI>Heads</HI> carved on the out&s;ide of a <HI>Cherry-&s;tone.</HI> A <HI>Religious Man</HI> or <HI>Frier</HI> of <HI>Japan</HI> carved in <HI>Box.</HI> A <HI>Chry&s;tal Cabinet,</HI> &s;old by <HI>Oliver Cromwell,</HI> wherein is kept a <HI>Ring</HI> which hath <HI>Stones</HI> in it in the &s;hape of a <HI>Ca&s;tle.</HI> His Maje&s;ty King <HI>Charles</HI> the Second on Horsback, carved out of <HI>Iron.</HI> A <HI>Head</HI> of King <HI>Charles</HI> the Fir&s;t. A <HI>Gla&s;s Organ, Topazes</HI> unpoli&s;hed, ten Inches in <HI>Diameter.</HI> A <HI>Cup</HI> out of a <HI>To|paze. Emeralds</HI> an inch in <HI>Diameter,</HI> as they grow in the <HI>Rock,</HI> re&s;embling the <HI>Vitriolum Nativum,</HI> as I &s;aw it in <HI>Paradi&s;e-hill</HI> by <HI>Schemnitz</HI> in <HI>Hungary. Stones</HI> named <HI>Thunder &s;tones,</HI> &s;melling of <HI>Fire. Rocks</HI> made out of all &s;orts of <HI>Ore,</HI> and the <HI>names</HI> of the places written upon them from whence they were digged.</P>
<P>The Figures of <HI>Fi&s;hes</HI> in <HI>Stones</HI> out of <HI>Mansfield;</HI> the <HI>Stones</HI> are dark-coloured, but the <HI>Fi&s;hes</HI> of a Gold or Copper colour. All &s;orts of <HI>Stones</HI> which are to be found about <HI>Saxony</HI> and <HI>Mi&s;nia</HI> poli&s;hed. Two large pieces of pure <HI>Virgin Gold</HI> out of the <HI>Mine.</HI> A <HI>Cabinet</HI> of all &s;orts of <HI>Apothecaries In&s;truments</HI> and <HI>chief Druggs.</HI> A <HI>Hart</HI> with a <HI>Cabinet</HI> made in his &s;ide, containing all Me|dicines taken from a <HI>Hart.</HI> A <HI>white Hart</HI> as big as the
<PB N="131" REF="73"> <HI>Life,</HI> made out of the <HI>&s;havings</HI> and <HI>filings</HI> of <HI>Harts horn,</HI> and looking like <HI>Plai&s;ter. Figures</HI> printed in <HI>Trees.</HI> A <HI>Spur</HI> in part of a <HI>Tree. Horns</HI> in <HI>Trees.</HI></P>
<P>A Chamber of all manner of <HI>Mathematical In&s;truments</HI> and <HI>Charts.</HI> A good <HI>Library</HI> of <HI>Mathematical Books</HI> An <HI>Unicorns-horn,</HI> which they will have to be of a <HI>Land U|nicorn,</HI> being neither wreathed nor hollow. A Dart of <HI>Unicorns-horn.</HI> Among the <HI>Pictures</HI> in the &s;ame Cham|bers the&s;e &s;eemed remarkable: A <HI>Picture</HI> by <HI>Colier,</HI> of the Siege of <HI>Jeru&s;alem,</HI> with great number of <HI>Figures,</HI> and highly e&s;teemed. Four <HI>Heads</HI> of the <HI>Elements</HI> made out of the <HI>Creatures</HI> which belong to them in <HI>Caricatura.</HI> A painting of <HI>Merchants Letters</HI> &s;tuck behind <HI>green Tape.</HI> A <HI>Storm</HI> by <HI>Rubens.</HI> Two <HI>Nuns</HI> by <HI>Lucas van Leyden.</HI> A <HI>Picture</HI> of Dr. <HI>Luther</HI> in the <HI>Cloy&s;ter,</HI> in his <HI>Gown,</HI> and after his <HI>Death.</HI> There is al&s;o great variety of excellent <HI>Clockwork,</HI> and an attempt for a <HI>perpetual motion</HI> by a <HI>rowling bullet.</HI> A <HI>Cuckow</HI> &s;ingeth by <HI>Clockwork,</HI> a <HI>Hor&s;|man</HI> rideth, a <HI>Ship</HI> &s;aileth, an <HI>old Woman</HI> walketh, a <HI>Cen|taur</HI> runneth and &s;hooteth, a <HI>Crab</HI> creepeth upon a Table &s;o well as to amaze and delight; but among all, the <HI>Crab</HI> &s;eems to be mo&s;t naturally imitated.</P>
<P>In the <HI>Stable hou&s;e,</HI> be&s;ides the extraordinary noble Stable of Hor&s;es, wherein every <HI>Hor&s;e</HI> eats out of a <HI>Rack</HI> of <HI>Iron,</HI> and <HI>Manger</HI> of <HI>Copper;</HI> and on a <HI>Pillar</HI> by him his <HI>Comb, Bridle</HI> and <HI>Saddle,</HI> and other Nece&s;&s;aries, hang; be&s;ides a hand&s;ome Window with a Curtain before him. There are ob&s;ervable a very fair <HI>Fountain</HI> and <HI>pond</HI> &s;et a|bout with hand&s;ome <HI>Balli&s;ters,</HI> where the <HI>Hor&s;es</HI> are wa|tered. A <HI>long walk</HI> arched and painted with <HI>Hor&s;es;</HI> over which is a <HI>Gallery</HI> with the <HI>Pictures</HI> of all the <HI>Dukes</HI> and <HI>Electors</HI> of <HI>Saxony,</HI> both in their <HI>Military</HI> and <HI>Electoral</HI> Habits. Two <HI>Beds</HI> of <HI>Marble.</HI> Drinking <HI>Cups</HI> which &s;eem not great, yet &s;o contrived as to hold divers quarts.
<PB N="132" REF="74"> A <HI>Spring</HI> which cau&s;eth a <HI>Hor&s;eman</HI> in <HI>Silver</HI> to come ri|ding in, bringing a Cup of <HI>Wine</HI> in his hand. A pair of noble <HI>Pi&s;tols</HI> with all the <HI>Stories</HI> of the <HI>New</HI> and <HI>Old Te|&s;tament</HI> upon them. A <HI>Gla&s;s Gun.</HI> A <HI>Gun</HI> which &s;hoots off Forty times without charging again. A <HI>Piece</HI> which &s;heweth the manner of the fir&s;t invention of <HI>&s;triking Fire</HI> in <HI>Guns.</HI> A <HI>Lock</HI> without a <HI>cock.</HI></P>
<P>A Chamber of rich <HI>Sleds</HI> for <HI>Hor&s;es,</HI> made u&s;e of in Jollity and pompous Cour&s;es upon the <HI>Snow.</HI> A <HI>white Bears skin</HI> &s;tuffed. <HI>Tigers</HI> and <HI>Lyons</HI> Skins. A <HI>Ca&s;&s;owares</HI> Skin. Good <HI>Armour</HI> for <HI>Men</HI> and <HI>Hor&s;es.</HI> Many &s;orts of <HI>Indian Mony, Duntans,</HI> and other &s;orts. A <HI>Picture</HI> of <HI>Laplanders</HI> and their <HI>Cu&s;toms.</HI> A <HI>Lapland Drum</HI> with <HI>Figures</HI> to conjure by. A Chamber of all <HI>Hunting Arms</HI> and <HI>Nece&s;&s;aries.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Armamentarium-Armory</HI> or <HI>Ar&s;enal,</HI> is a long, &s;quare Building, wherein are about Four hundred <HI>bra&s;s Pieces</HI> of <HI>Ordinance,</HI> great number of <HI>Muskets</HI> and <HI>Armour</HI> in the Upper Room. <HI>Silver Coats</HI> of <HI>Male. Pieces</HI> of <HI>Ordi|nance</HI> to be charged behind. <HI>Retorts</HI> and <HI>Alembicks</HI> in the &s;hape of <HI>Granados.</HI> The <HI>Steeple</HI> of the chief <HI>Church</HI> was lately burnt by Lightning, and the <HI>Canon</HI> melted which were upon it.</P>
<P>In the <HI>Hunting-hou&s;e,</HI> in the <HI>old Town,</HI> are fifteen <HI>Bears</HI> very well provided for and looked unto. They have <HI>Fountains</HI> and <HI>Ponds</HI> to wa&s;h them&s;elves in, wherein they much delight: And near to the <HI>Pond</HI> are high <HI>ragged Po&s;ts</HI> or <HI>Trees</HI> &s;et up for the <HI>Bears</HI> to climb up, and <HI>Scaffolds</HI> made at the top to &s;un and dry them&s;elves; where they will al&s;o &s;leep, and come and go as the <HI>Keeper</HI> calls them. The <HI>Horn Gallery</HI> is al&s;o remarkable in this place, out of which there are three Chambers; one painted with &s;eve|ral &s;orts of <HI>Hunting;</HI> another with all &s;orts of <HI>Fowl;</HI> and a third with great variety of <HI>Bea&s;ts.</HI></P>
<P><FIGURE>
<PB REF="74">
<PB REF="75">
<PB REF="76">
<FIGDESC>depiction of the bear garden at Dresden, Meissen, Germany, featuring five bears, three on poles or platforms, one on the ground, and one swimming in a pool or pond</FIGDESC>
<P>The Elector of Saxony his Beare Garden at Dresden in Misnia.</P>
<BYLINE>Oliuer. Fe</BYLINE>
</FIGURE></P>
<PB REF="77">
<PB N="133" REF="77">
<P>In the <HI>Hou&s;e</HI> for <HI>wild Bea&s;ts</HI> I took notice of a <HI>Marian,</HI> which is a four-footed Bea&s;t, that hangeth upon <HI>Trees</HI> by the <HI>Tail.</HI> Al&s;o a <HI>wild</HI> or <HI>Mountain-Cat</HI> of a large &s;ize. Five <HI>young Bears.</HI> Five <HI>old black Bears.</HI> A <HI>white Bear</HI> very large; the <HI>feet,</HI> the <HI>head,</HI> and the <HI>neck</HI> are longer than tho&s;e of the <HI>black,</HI> but not &s;o thick. Two <HI>Lyons.</HI> Ten <HI>Luek&s;es;</HI> very fine <HI>Bea&s;ts,</HI> in <HI>bigne&s;s, colour,</HI> and <HI>&s;hape</HI> between a <HI>Tiger</HI> and a <HI>wild Cat;</HI> the tips of their <HI>Ears</HI> and <HI>Tails</HI> are <HI>black,</HI> their <HI>Eyes</HI> lively, their <HI>Skin</HI> Lyon coloured, and &s;potted, e&s;pecially about their <HI>Eyes.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>Italian Garden</HI> and <HI>Summer-hou&s;e</HI> in the <HI>Suburbs</HI> is very noble, wherein are two <HI>Obelisks,</HI> two gallant <HI>Fountains,</HI> a <HI>Theatre</HI> and good <HI>Landskips.</HI> This <HI>Garden</HI> and <HI>Summer hou&s;e</HI> were built by two of the Prince Ele|ctour's <HI>Eunuchs,</HI> and afterwards &s;old unto the Prince for Six and twenty thou&s;and <HI>Dollars.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Dre&s;den</HI> is but a late City, and was formerly a Village. The <HI>Churfur&s;t,</HI> or <HI>Elector,</HI> was not in the Town; but the <HI>Chur-prince</HI> his Son was there: A Per&s;on rather of low than middle <HI>Stature,</HI> his Hair long and yellow, his Face ruddy, his Body well &s;et and active, and he is very well beloved. The pre&s;ent Elector of <HI>Saxony</HI> is <HI>John George</HI> the Second, <HI>Grand Mar&s;hal</HI> of the <HI>Empire,</HI> a great and powerful Prince, who keeps a <HI>Royal Court</HI> and <HI>Attendance,</HI> having his <HI>Guards</HI> and <HI>Officers</HI> after the manner of <HI>Kings.</HI> His <HI>Dominions</HI> lye in <HI>Mi&s;nia, Thuringia Voytland,</HI> and part of <HI>Lu&s;atia.</HI> His <HI>Revenues</HI> are large, from <HI>Impo&s;iti|ons</HI> upon <HI>Commodities.</HI> His <HI>Profits</HI> great, from the Tax upon <HI>Beer,</HI> which ari&s;eth to no &s;mall &s;um, e&s;pecially in <HI>Wittenberg, Torga,</HI> and <HI>Leip&s;ick.</HI> And his <HI>Silver Mines</HI> are con&s;iderable. And the <HI>Funeral</HI> of the la&s;t Electour <HI>Joannes Georgius</HI> the Fir&s;t, was very magnificent 1657. at which there were twenty four <HI>Hor&s;es</HI> of <HI>State</HI> covered with <HI>black,</HI> and the Electoral <HI>E&s;cutcheon</HI> embroydered
<PB N="134" REF="78"> thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three thou&s;and five hundred per&s;ons in mourning.</P>
<P>Dr. <HI>Luthers</HI> Holiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church is very fair: They preach every morning at &s;even a Clock. The <HI>Lutheran</HI> women mourn in <HI>white,</HI> as others do in <HI>Black:</HI> and the woman of the Hou&s;e doth ordinarily &s;ay Grace in&s;tead of the man. The be&s;t <HI>High|dutch</HI> is &s;poken in this place, and other parts of <HI>Mi&s;nia,</HI> which is a very plea&s;ant fruitful Country, and full of good Towns and Villages.</P>
<P>Leaving this noble place, I took not the neare&s;t Road, but turned out of the way unto <HI>Freiberg,</HI> a place noted for <HI>Silver Mines;</HI> whereof I had read &s;omething in <HI>A|gricola,</HI> and heard very much in the&s;e parts. About an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> mile or two from <HI>Freiberg,</HI> there are many remar|kable <HI>Mines.</HI> I took notice of three of them: One called <HI>Auff den hohen berg,</HI> or <HI>upon the high Hill,</HI> which is the deepe&s;t in the&s;e parts, as being &s;eventy &s;even of their <HI>Fathoms</HI> deep; each of their <HI>Fathoms</HI> contains twelve of their <HI>Ells,</HI> and three of their <HI>Ells</HI> makes one of our <HI>Fa|thoms.</HI> So that the depth of this <HI>Mine</HI> exceedeth any of tho&s;e wherein I was in <HI>Hungary.</HI> There is another <HI>Mine</HI> called <HI>Himmelfur&s;t,</HI> or the <HI>Prince of Heaven,</HI> where|in not long &s;ince there was <HI>Ore</HI> found &s;o rich, as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks of <HI>Silver,</HI> or &s;ixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was not much of it: And where the <HI>Veyns</HI> are riche&s;t, they are ob&s;erved to be thine&s;t, about two &s;in|gers broad; but the ordinary <HI>Ore</HI> is but poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds weight; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they work it. Nor is this much to be wondered at, for in the va&s;t rich <HI>Mines</HI> of <HI>Peru</HI> and <HI>Chili,</HI> they will work the <HI>Silver Ore</HI> which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound
<PB N="135" REF="78"> weight, and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common <HI>Ore</HI> of that rich Mountain of <HI>Poto&s;i,</HI> out of which Hill alone, if we believe <HI>Albero Alon&s;o Barba,</HI> Cu|rate of the Pari&s;h of St. <HI>Bernard</HI> in that City, there hath been more <HI>Silver</HI> taken than would cover all <HI>Mi&s;nia</HI> o|ver and over: For thus he &s;aith, Poto&s;i <HI>hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight.</HI> A quantity &s;ufficient to make &s;uch another Hill of <HI>Silver:</HI> It is hard to form a conception equal unto &s;o exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the better to help our imagination herein, know, that if the Ground were cove|red with &s;o many pieces of Eight, laid as clo&s;e to one another as is po&s;&s;ible, they would take up the &s;pace of &s;ix|ty Leagues &s;quare.</P>
<P>Here at <HI>Freiberg</HI> they have many ways to open the <HI>Ore</HI> whereby it may be melted; as by <HI>Lead</HI> and a &s;ort of <HI>Sil|ver Ore</HI> which holds <HI>Lead</HI> in it. They have al&s;o <HI>Sulphur Ore</HI> found here, which after it is burned, doth help much towards the fu&s;ion of <HI>Metals:</HI> And be&s;ides the&s;e, <HI>Slich,</HI> or pounded and wa&s;hed <HI>Ore;</HI> and <HI>Slacken,</HI> which is the Dro&s;s or Cake, or Skum taken out of the <HI>Vortiegel,</HI> or <HI>Pan</HI> which receiveth the <HI>melted Minerals</HI> let out at the bottom of the <HI>melting Furnace.</HI> Their <HI>Treib&s;hearth,</HI> or <HI>driving Furnace,</HI> where the <HI>Litharge</HI> is driven off, agreeth better with the Figure of it in <HI>Agricola,</HI> than tho&s;e of <HI>Hungary;</HI> &s;ome of the <HI>Litharge</HI> is green: Their <HI>Buck|work</HI> and their <HI>Engines</HI> which pound the <HI>Ore,</HI> the <HI>Coal,</HI> and <HI>Clay,</HI> are al&s;o very neat. Much of their <HI>Ore</HI> is wa&s;hed, e&s;pecially the poore&s;t, and that which is mixed with <HI>&s;tones, quarts,</HI> or <HI>&s;parrs.</HI></P>
<P>This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the pounded and wa&s;hed <HI>Ore</HI> in the <HI>Roa&s;thearth,</HI> before they melt it in the <HI>Smeltzoven,</HI> or <HI>melting Furnace.</HI></P>
<PB N="136" REF="79">
<P>At the&s;e <HI>Mines</HI> of <HI>Hungary</HI> where I was, they u&s;ed not the <HI>Virgula divina,</HI> or forked Hazel, to find out <HI>Silver Ore,</HI> or hidden Trea&s;ure in the Earth; and I &s;hould little depend thereon: but here they have an e&s;teem of it. And I ob&s;erved the u&s;e thereof, and the manner how they did it. But I &s;hall omit the De&s;cription of it, becau&s;e it is &s;et down in divers Books, and it cannot be &s;o well de|&s;cribed as &s;hown to the Eye.</P>
<P>I &s;aw al&s;o another <HI>Mine,</HI> called <HI>Auff der Hal&s;brucker,</HI> about eighty of our <HI>Fathoms</HI> deep, and much worked: They have divers &s;orts of <HI>Ore;</HI> but they contain either <HI>Silver</HI> and <HI>Copper, Silver</HI> and <HI>Lead,</HI> or all three; but they work them only for <HI>Silver.</HI> They have divers <HI>damps</HI> in the&s;e <HI>Mines,</HI> where it is deep. The <HI>Mines</HI> are cold where the outward Air comes in; but where not, warm. The greate&s;t trouble they have is by du&s;t, which &s;poileth their <HI>Lungs</HI> and <HI>Stomachs,</HI> and frets their <HI>Skins.</HI> But they are not &s;o much troubled with water; and have ve|ry good <HI>Engins</HI> to draw the water out.</P>
<P>The <HI>Sulphur,</HI> or <HI>Brim&s;tone Ore</HI> which is found here, is al&s;o rich; it is hard and &s;tony, as other <HI>Ores</HI> are: that which hath <HI>red &s;pots</HI> is accounted the be&s;t. They u&s;e a peculiar <HI>Furnace</HI> to melt the <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> from the <HI>Ore;</HI> &s;ome whereof yieldeth three pounds of <HI>Sulphur</HI> out of an hundred weight of <HI>Ore,</HI> which as it melteth runneth out of the <HI>Furnace</HI> into water, or the Exhalations from the <HI>Ore</HI> near or in the Fire, are conden&s;ed into <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once again melted and purified. Some of the <HI>Brim&s;tone Ore</HI> containeth <HI>Silver,</HI> &s;ome <HI>Copper,</HI> and &s;ome both in a &s;mall proportion.</P>
<P>After the <HI>Sulphur</HI> is melted from the <HI>Ore,</HI> the remain|der &s;erveth for two u&s;es; that is, either for the melting of <HI>Silver,</HI> or for the making of <HI>Vitriol:</HI> To the former only
<FIGURE>
<PB N="136" REF="79">
<PB N="136" REF="80">
<FIGDESC>depiction of two German miners and their tools</FIGDESC>
<HEAD>Two Miners in their habits</HEAD>
<P><HI>Virgula Divina</HI></P>
<P><HI>The figure of an Iron retort &s;uch as are v&s;ed at the quick&s;ilver worke at Idria.</HI></P>
</FIGURE>
<PB REF="81">
<PB N="137" REF="81"> thus; A proportion is ca&s;t into the melting <HI>Furnace</HI> of the <HI>Silver,</HI> to this end, to u&s;e the <HI>Miners</HI> expre&s;&s;ion, to make the <HI>Silver</HI> which is hard, fluid.</P>
<P>The other u&s;e, and which is more con&s;iderable, is for the making of <HI>Vitriol,</HI> or <HI>Coppero&s;e</HI> in this manner: They take the <HI>Ore</HI> out of which the <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or let it &s;till burn in the open Air; then putting it into a large Fatt, they pour water upon it, &s;o as to imbibe and drink in the <HI>Vitriol;</HI> this Water is afterwards boyled to a &s;ufficient height, and let out into the Coolers, where &s;ticks are &s;et in it, as in the making of <HI>Sugar Candy:</HI> The pure&s;t Chry&s;tallized <HI>Vitriol</HI> &s;ticks unto the wood, the re&s;t to the &s;ides and bot|tom. Thus the <HI>Sulphur Ore,</HI> after the <HI>Sulphur</HI> is taken out of it, &s;till worketh upon the <HI>Silver Ore,</HI> and openeth the Body of it in the Fire; but when this <HI>Ore</HI> is al&s;o de|prived of its <HI>Vitriol,</HI> it worketh no more upon <HI>Me|tals.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Friberg</HI> is a round well-walled City; hath hand&s;ome Streets, a <HI>Piazza,</HI> the Elector's Ca&s;tle, and five Gates. the Church of St. <HI>Peter</HI> is fair, where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monu|ments; e&s;pecially Duke <HI>Mauritius,</HI> Elector of <HI>Saxony,</HI> who&s;e Monument in <HI>black Marble</HI> is rai&s;ed three piles high, adorned with many fair <HI>Statua's</HI> in <HI>Alaba&s;ter</HI> and <HI>white Marble,</HI> and e&s;teemed one of the noble&s;t, if not the be&s;t, in <HI>Germany.</HI> And when this Town was &s;urrendred unto <HI>Holck</HI> and <HI>Gallas, Octob.</HI> 5. 1632. the Duke of <HI>Saxony</HI> paid 80000 <HI>Dollars</HI> to &s;ave the Monuments of his Prede|ce&s;&s;ours from being ran&s;acked and defaced, it being the fa&s;hion of divers <HI>German</HI> Princes to be buried in their <HI>Robes,</HI> with their <HI>En&s;igns</HI> of <HI>Honour, Rings, Jewels,</HI> and the like, which would have been booty, and probably have run the &s;ame fortune as the <HI>Cloi&s;ter</HI> of <HI>Haibron,</HI> within
<PB N="138" REF="82"> twelve <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles of <HI>Nurenberg,</HI> where &s;ome of the Marqui&s;&s;es of <HI>On&s;pach,</HI> who are of the Electoral Hou&s;e of <HI>Brandenburg,</HI> lye entombed, where <HI>Tillie</HI>'s Souldiers brake open the <HI>Vault,</HI> and robbed the <HI>dead Corp&s;es</HI> of the Marqui&s;&s;es, <HI>George Frederick,</HI> and <HI>Joachim Erne&s;t,</HI> of the <HI>Jewels, Rings,</HI> and other rich <HI>Ornaments</HI> with which they were entombed.</P>
<P>There are &s;ome Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City, by which there are pa&s;&s;ages into the <HI>Mines.</HI> This place was formerly &s;treightly be&s;ieged by the Em|perour <HI>Adolphus,</HI> for the &s;pace of a year and a month, and at la&s;t betrayed by a <HI>Fugitive,</HI> who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Pa&s;|&s;age near St. <HI>Donats</HI> Gate, and upon the continual Batte|ries made at the Town, and concu&s;&s;ion of the Earth a|bout it, the Earth &s;unk down in many places, and &s;wal|lowed great numbers of the Emperours Army.</P>
<P>The&s;e <HI>Mines</HI> afford great benefit unto the City, and al&s;o unto the Elector; They are &s;aid to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other <HI>Silver Mines</HI> di&s;covered &s;ince; as at <HI>Schneeberg,</HI> at <HI>Anneberg,</HI> and at <HI>Joachims Dale,</HI> 1526.</P>
<P>Having pa&s;&s;ed &s;ome time at <HI>Friberg,</HI> I ordered my Journey for <HI>Leip&s;ick,</HI> and travelling by <HI>Waltheim</HI> and <HI>Col|dick,</HI> came unto it.</P>
<P><HI>Leip&s;ick</HI> is &s;eated upon the River <HI>El&s;ter,</HI> which ari&s;ing in <HI>Vortland,</HI> or <HI>Terra Advocatorum,</HI> pa&s;&s;eth by it, and afterwards runneth into the River <HI>Sala.</HI> It is a rich and great trading City; hath three <HI>Marts</HI> in the year, and great re&s;ort unto it from many parts: It is well-built, and divers <HI>Hou&s;es</HI> are &s;even &s;tories high. The <HI>Ca&s;tle</HI> is &s;trictly guarded, and hath in it a &s;trong white Town: But the Works about the Town are not very con&s;iderable, al|though they might be made &s;trong.</P>
<PB N="139" REF="82">
<P>The Church of St. <HI>Nicholas</HI> is well adorned, and hath the name to be the faire&s;t within &s;ide of any <HI>Lutheran</HI> Church in <HI>Germany;</HI> they have al&s;o a remarkable <HI>Burial|place</HI> or <HI>Godt&s;aker,</HI> walled about, and cloy&s;tered near the Wall, wherein the better &s;ort are buried, as the re&s;t in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of that noble <HI>Burial-place</HI> which I &s;aw at <HI>Pi&s;a</HI> in <HI>Tu&s;cany,</HI> called <HI>Il campo Santo,</HI> becau&s;e the Earth which the Em|perour <HI>Frederick Barbaro&s;&s;a</HI> brought from the <HI>Holy Land,</HI> for the Balla&s;t of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground.</P>
<P><HI>Leip&s;ick</HI> is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the la&s;t <HI>Swedi&s;h</HI> wars; one between <HI>Gu&s;tavus Adolphus,</HI> King of <HI>Sweden,</HI> and Count <HI>Tilly,</HI> General of the <HI>Imperiali&s;ts,</HI> 1631. wherein the <HI>Swedes</HI> obtained a great Victory. <HI>Tilly</HI> was wounded, fled, and lived not long after. Another &s;ome years after in the &s;ame place, wherein <HI>Leonard Tor&s;ten&s;on</HI> the <HI>Swede,</HI> overcame Arch|duke <HI>Leopoldus Gulielmus,</HI> and <HI>Octavio Piccolomini,</HI> Gene|rals of the <HI>Imperial Army.</HI> And about a mile and a half from hence, at <HI>Lutzen,</HI> another great Battel was fought, 1632. between the King of <HI>Sweden</HI> and the <HI>Imperial Ar|my,</HI> commanded by <HI>Albert Wallen&s;teyn</HI> Duke of <HI>Friedland,</HI> wherein the <HI>Swedes</HI> obtained the Victory, but the King of <HI>Sweden</HI> was &s;lain; and on the <HI>Imperial</HI> &s;ide that famous Commander, <HI>Godfrey</HI> Count of <HI>Pappenheim.</HI></P>
<P>There is al&s;o an <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> at <HI>Leip&s;ick,</HI> fir&s;t occa&s;ioned by the <HI>German</HI> Scholars of <HI>Prague,</HI> who in the troubles of the <HI>Hu&s;&s;ites</HI> came hither, to the number of Two thou|&s;and in one day; and is &s;till one of the <HI>Three Univer&s;ities</HI> in the Elector's Dominions; the other being <HI>Jena</HI> by the River <HI>Sala,</HI> and <HI>Wittenberg</HI> upon the <HI>Elbe.</HI> In this <HI>Uni|ver&s;ity</HI> they are much addicted to the &s;tudy of the <HI>Law,</HI> but there are al&s;o Learned men in other Faculties.</P>
<PB N="140" REF="83">
<P>The Magi&s;trates of <HI>Leip&s;ick</HI> are al&s;o con&s;iderable. <HI>Der herr von Adler&s;helme</HI> was the <HI>Burgoma&s;ter,</HI> a courteous Learned Per&s;on, and great <HI>Virtuo&s;o,</HI> who had collected and ob&s;erved many things: He hath had five fair Daugh|ters brought up in all commendable ways of working, <HI>Drawing, Painting, Inlaying</HI> with <HI>Flowers,</HI> with <HI>Mother</HI> of <HI>Pearl, Stones,</HI> and other pretty <HI>Works.</HI> And they &s;peak divers <HI>Languages,</HI> which they learned at a School in <HI>Holland:</HI> So that his Hou&s;e hath a great deal of excel|lent Furniture of his Childrens work, and is one of the mo&s;t con&s;iderable Curio&s;ities to be &s;een in <HI>Leip&s;ick.</HI> His <HI>Summer-hou&s;e</HI> is hand&s;ome, painted both within and with|out: And in the Water about, are <HI>Mu&s;covy Ducks, Indian Gee&s;e,</HI> and divers rare <HI>Fowls.</HI> In his <HI>Chamber</HI> of <HI>Rari|ties</HI> there are many things con&s;iderable: But I have &s;een divers of them in other places, and lately &s;et down &s;ome <HI>Varieties</HI> of the Elector of <HI>Saxony,</HI> I &s;hall mention but a few.</P>
<P>An <HI>Elephants Head</HI> with the <HI>dentes molares</HI> in it. An <HI>Animal</HI> like an <HI>Armadillo,</HI> but the Scales are much larger, and the Tail broader. Very large <HI>flying Fi&s;hes.</HI> A <HI>Sea|hor&s;e. Bread</HI> of <HI>Mount Libanus.</HI> A <HI>Cedar-branch</HI> with the <HI>Fruit</HI> upon it. Large <HI>Granates</HI> as they grow in the <HI>Mine.</HI> A <HI>Sirens hand.</HI> A <HI>Chameleon</HI> made out of a <HI>Fi&s;h.</HI> A piece of <HI>Iron,</HI> which &s;eemeth to be the <HI>head</HI> of a <HI>Spear,</HI> found in the <HI>Tooth</HI> of an <HI>Elephant,</HI> the <HI>Tooth</HI> being grown about it. The <HI>I&s;le of Jer&s;cy</HI> drawn by our King. A piece of <HI>Wood</HI> with the <HI>Blood</HI> of King <HI>Charles</HI> the Fir&s;t upon it. A <HI>Greenland Lance</HI> with a large <HI>Bell</HI> at the end of it. Much <HI>Japan</HI> painting, wherein their manner of <HI>hunting</HI> and <HI>work|ing</HI> may be ob&s;erved. A <HI>Picture</HI> of our <HI>Saviour,</HI> the <HI>Hatches</HI> of which are writing, or written, and contain the <HI>&s;tory</HI> of his <HI>Pa&s;&s;ion. Bevers</HI> taken in the River <HI>Elbe.</HI> A <HI>Picture</HI> of the <HI>murther</HI> of the <HI>Innocents,</HI> done by <HI>Albert
<PB N="141" REF="83"> Durer. Pictures</HI> of divers &s;trange <HI>Fowls.</HI> A <HI>Greenland Boat.</HI> The Skins of <HI>white Bears, Tigres, Hilves,</HI> and other <HI>Bea&s;ts.</HI> And I mu&s;t not omit the <HI>Garter</HI> of an <HI>Eng|li&s;h Bride,</HI> with the &s;tory of it; of the Fa&s;hion in <HI>England</HI> for the Bridemen to take it off, and wear it in their Hat, which &s;eemed &s;o &s;trange to the <HI>Germans,</HI> that I was obli|ged to confirm it to them, by a&s;&s;uring them that I had di|vers times wore &s;uch a <HI>Garter</HI> my &s;elf.</P>
<P>Leaving this bu&s;ie and trading City of <HI>Leip&s;ick,</HI> I di|rected my Journey unto <HI>Magdeburg,</HI> and travelled through a plain Country, between the River <HI>Sala</HI> and the <HI>Elbe,</HI> by <HI>Land&s;berg,</HI> nigh to <HI>Peter&s;dorff,</HI> where there is a &s;mall Hill which overlooks all the Country, &s;o to <HI>Kihten,</HI> the Re&s;i|dence of the Prince of <HI>Anhalt,</HI> then to <HI>Caln,</HI> and over the River <HI>Sala,</HI> before it runneth into the <HI>Elbe,</HI> which ari&s;ing at <HI>Mount Fichtelberg,</HI> now ha&s;tneth towards it. <HI>Fich|telberg</HI> is a con&s;iderable Mountain, near which are divers <HI>Mines, Bathes,</HI> and <HI>Mineral-waters,</HI> of which <HI>Ga&s;par Bru&s;chius</HI> hath written a De&s;cription. And from it ari&s;e four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. The <HI>Maine</HI> or <HI>Moenus,</HI> towards the We&s;t; the <HI>Nab</HI> or <HI>Nabus,</HI> towards the South; the <HI>Aeger</HI> towards the Ea&s;t; and the forementioned <HI>Sala</HI> towards the North. The&s;e four afterwards fall into the three greate&s;t Rivers of <HI>Ger|many,</HI> the <HI>Danube,</HI> the <HI>Rhine,</HI> and the <HI>Elbe.</HI> Then to <HI>Sals</HI> or <HI>Saltz,</HI> a placed noted for Salt-&s;prings, and that night to <HI>Magdeburg.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Parthenopolis,</HI> or <HI>Magdeburg,</HI> is &s;eated by the River <HI>Elbe,</HI> formerly the Metropolitan City of <HI>Germany,</HI> now under the Marqui&s;s of <HI>Brandenburg,</HI> of very great Circuit, but little more than half built again, &s;ince it was &s;acked and burnt by <HI>Tilly,</HI> and Thirty &s;ix thou&s;and per&s;ons put to the Sword and de&s;troyed. I could not but ob&s;erve the ruinous and de&s;tructive effects of the late wars in many
<PB N="142" REF="84"> parts of <HI>Germany,</HI> but not in any &s;o great and flouri&s;h|ing a place as this: And a man might think, that after this great de&s;truction of Hou&s;es and People, this place &s;hould not be able to &s;tand a Siege; yet a few years after it was be&s;ieged by General <HI>Hatzfield,</HI> unto whom (<HI>Bannier</HI> the <HI>Swede</HI> not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The <HI>Cathedral Church</HI> is very fair, and built like an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> one, by the Emperour <HI>Otho</HI> the Fir&s;t, and his Empre&s;s <HI>Editha,</HI> an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> woman, Daughter unto King <HI>Edmund,</HI> who&s;e <HI>Effigies</HI> in Stone I &s;aw in the Church, with nine|teen Tuns of <HI>Gold</HI> by her which &s;he gave thereto. And to &s;ay the truth, <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> mony hath done great things in <HI>Germany,</HI> for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this Church was built or endowed. <HI>Leopoldus,</HI> Duke of <HI>Au|&s;tria,</HI> built the old <HI>Walls</HI> of <HI>Vienna</HI> with the ran&s;ome of King <HI>Richard</HI> the Fir&s;t, whom he detained in his return through <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> from the <HI>Holy Land.</HI> King <HI>Edward</HI> the Fir&s;t &s;ent a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour <HI>Adol|phus,</HI> for the rai&s;ing of Souldiers in <HI>Germany,</HI> which the Emperour employed in purcha&s;ing a great part of <HI>Mi&s;nia</HI> for him&s;elf.</P>
<P>The <HI>Lutheran</HI> Churches are hand&s;ome, and their Pul|pits are extraordinary noble, and richly &s;et off, as I ob|&s;erved, through all <HI>Saxony, Norimberg.</HI> And where they are Ma&s;ters of the Places, and have not their Chur|ches only by permi&s;&s;ion; here they &s;hewed me in the <HI>Cathedral Church</HI> of St. <HI>Maurice,</HI> the <HI>Statua's</HI> of the <HI>five wi&s;e Virgins</HI> &s;miling, and of the <HI>five fooli&s;h Virgins</HI> lament|ing, which are very well expre&s;&s;ed: They &s;hewed me al|&s;o two odd Reliques, which they &s;till kept as <HI>Rarities;</HI> that is, the <HI>Ba&s;on</HI> wherein <HI>Pilate</HI> wa&s;hed his hands, when he declared him&s;elf free from the blood of our <HI>Saviour;</HI> and the <HI>Ladder</HI> whereon the <HI>Cock</HI> &s;tood when he crowed after St. <HI>Peter</HI>'s denying of Chri&s;t.</P>
<PB N="143" REF="84">
<P>In the <HI>Ruines</HI> of the <HI>Cloi&s;ter</HI> of the <HI>Augu&s;tines,</HI> there is &s;till to be &s;een <HI>Luther</HI>'s <HI>Chamber,</HI> his <HI>Bed&s;tead,</HI> and <HI>Table,</HI> and upon the <HI>Door</HI> are the&s;e <HI>German</HI> Ver&s;es.</P>
<Q><LG>
<L>Dis war <HI>Lutheri</HI> Kammerlin,</L>
<L>Waner in's Clo&s;ter kam herin,</L>
<L>Gedachnis halb wird noch it zund</L>
<L>Herin ge&s;ehen &s;ein Bette&s;pund.</L>
</LG>
<P><HI>i. e.</HI></P>
<LG>
<L><HI>Luther</HI> did lodge within this little Room,</L>
<L>When fir&s;t he did into the Cloi&s;ter come;</L>
<L>In memory whereof we &s;till do keep</L>
<L>The Bed&s;tead upon which he us'd to &s;leep.</L>
</LG></Q>
<P>I lodged at <HI>Magdeburg,</HI> in an old man's Hou&s;e, who would tell me many &s;tories of the <HI>burning</HI> of the <HI>Town,</HI> the <HI>cruelties</HI> and <HI>bloody u&s;age</HI> of the <HI>people,</HI> who were de&s;troy|ed without exception: The <HI>Nuns,</HI> many of them being drowned in the River <HI>Elbe.</HI> After which &s;ome ob&s;erved that Count <HI>Tilly</HI> never pro&s;pered in his wars. He told me al&s;o that <HI>Dureus</HI> lodged with him, who was employed by King <HI>Charles</HI> the Fir&s;t, to endeavour a reconciliation between the <HI>Lutherans</HI> and <HI>Calvini&s;ts</HI> in <HI>Germany,</HI> and to unite them if po&s;&s;ible. We were now in the Territory of the Elector of <HI>Brandenburg, Fridericus Wilhelmus,</HI> Great Chamberlain of the Empire, who is in effect po&s;|&s;e&s;&s;ed of <HI>Magdeburg,</HI> and next unto the <HI>Au&s;trian Family,</HI> is the mo&s;t potent Prince in <HI>Germany,</HI> being able to rai&s;e great <HI>Armies,</HI> and his <HI>Dominions</HI> &s;o large, that they are reckoned to extend two hundred <HI>German</HI> miles in length, from the further part of <HI>Pru&s;&s;ia</HI> unto <HI>Cleve,</HI> but they lay not together, but inter&s;per&s;ed with many other Princes
<PB N="144" REF="85"> Countries: How&s;oever, a Hor&s;e-man may &s;o order his Journey, as to lye every night in one of the Electour's Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to another.</P>
<P>I had now left the <HI>pure German Language</HI> behind me, for at <HI>Magdeburg</HI> comes in another kind of <HI>German,</HI> called <HI>Plat-Deutch, Broad-Dutch, Nider&s;ach&s;i&s;che,</HI> or the <HI>Lan|guage of lower Saxony;</HI> a great <HI>Language,</HI> &s;poken in the North part of <HI>Germany:</HI> They &s;peak it at <HI>Hamburg, Lubeck,</HI> and many great Cities: But they can conver&s;e with the other <HI>High-dutch,</HI> and with &s;ome difficulty al&s;o with the <HI>Netherlanders;</HI> the one &s;peaking in his <HI>Language,</HI> and the other replying in his.</P>
<P>At this City of <HI>Magdeburg</HI> was performed the fir&s;t <HI>Turnament</HI> that was in <HI>Germany,</HI> which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperour <HI>Henry,</HI> Surnamed the <HI>Fow|ler,</HI> who coming from the war of <HI>Hungary,</HI> exceedingly &s;atisfied with the <HI>Nobility,</HI> would oblige them to exerci&s;e them&s;elves in handling their <HI>Arms,</HI> and managing their <HI>Hor&s;es,</HI> and therefore in&s;tituted the&s;e <HI>Sports,</HI> whereby the <HI>Nobility</HI> was powerfully attracted to <HI>Valour</HI> and <HI>Gallan|try,</HI> and induced to perfect and accompli&s;h them&s;elves in all kind of <HI>Chevalry.</HI> No new <HI>Nobility,</HI> no <HI>Ba&s;tard,</HI> no <HI>U&s;urper,</HI> none guilty of <HI>High Trea&s;on,</HI> no <HI>Oppre&s;&s;or</HI> of <HI>Widows</HI> and <HI>Orphans,</HI> none born of <HI>Parents</HI> whereof one was of <HI>ba&s;e Extraction</HI> and <HI>Ignoble,</HI> no <HI>Heretique, Mur|derer, Traytor,</HI> no <HI>Coward</HI> that had run away from the <HI>Battel,</HI> nor <HI>indi&s;creet Per&s;on</HI> that had given <HI>offence</HI> to <HI>La|dies</HI> by <HI>word</HI> or <HI>deed,</HI> were admitted to this <HI>Honour,</HI> nor above <HI>One</HI> of the &s;ame <HI>Family</HI> at a time. <HI>Princes</HI> came into the <HI>Li&s;ts</HI> with <HI>four Squires</HI> a piece, <HI>Counts</HI> and <HI>Ba|rons</HI> with <HI>three,</HI> a <HI>Knight</HI> with <HI>two,</HI> and a <HI>Gentleman</HI> with <HI>one.</HI></P>
<PB N="145" REF="85">
<P>The hour and place for the <HI>Turnament</HI> being appoint|ed, he that had a de&s;ire to break a <HI>Lance</HI> there, came to the <HI>Pre&s;idents Lodgings</HI> to have his <HI>Name</HI> written down, which was done in the pre&s;ence of three <HI>Heralds,</HI> to whom the <HI>Champion</HI> delivered his <HI>Helmet</HI> and <HI>Sword,</HI> and after he had been at Confe&s;&s;ion, pre&s;ented him&s;elf in the <HI>Li&s;ts</HI> with one or more <HI>Squires,</HI> according to his quality. The <HI>Hor&s;es</HI> of the <HI>Combatants</HI> were to be without fault or exception; the <HI>Capari&s;ons</HI> and <HI>Furniture</HI> &s;uch as gave no offence; their <HI>Saddles</HI> without any extraordinary ri|&s;ing before and behind, and all things equal. After which they performed all kind of <HI>Exerci&s;es</HI> on <HI>Hor&s;e-back:</HI> and after the <HI>Jou&s;ts</HI> were ended, every man repaired to the <HI>Pre&s;ident</HI> of his <HI>Nation,</HI> to wait for the <HI>Sentence</HI> of the <HI>Judges;</HI> and he that be&s;t de&s;erved the <HI>Prize,</HI> received it either from the <HI>hand</HI> of &s;ome <HI>Lady,</HI> or from the <HI>Prince</HI> that gave it.</P>
<P>The&s;e <HI>Pa&s;times</HI> were afterwards di&s;u&s;ed, upon the E|mulation it cau&s;ed between the <HI>Princes</HI> and <HI>Nobility,</HI> who &s;trove to outvie one another; or upon wars, in which there was no lei&s;ure for &s;uch <HI>Exerci&s;es;</HI> or perhaps upon con|&s;ideration that divers <HI>brave men</HI> lo&s;t their <HI>lives</HI> in the&s;e <HI>Encounters:</HI> And no le&s;s a <HI>Prince</HI> than <HI>Henry</HI> the Second, King of <HI>France,</HI> neglecting to wear his <HI>Beaver</HI> down, was &s;lain in a <HI>Turnament.</HI> And at <HI>Darm&s;tadt</HI> al&s;o, in the year 1403. at the Three and twentieth <HI>Turnament</HI> which was held in <HI>Germany,</HI> the Gentlemen of <HI>Franconia</HI> and tho&s;e of <HI>He&s;&s;e,</HI> drew &s;o much blood upon one another, that there remained dead upon the place &s;eventeen of the for|mer, and nine of the latter.</P>
<P>The <HI>Winter</HI> growing on called me to make ha&s;te to <HI>Hamburg,</HI> from whence I intended to pa&s;s by Sea into <HI>England,</HI> and therefore I took the advantage of the <HI>Stage-Coaches</HI> at <HI>Magdeburg,</HI> and in four days came to <HI>Ham|burg;</HI>
<PB N="146" REF="86"> I travelled through a Country for the mo&s;t part barren, of little accommodation, or &s;carce any thing ve|ry remarkable, through part of the Electour of <HI>Branden|burg,</HI> and then through the Duke of <HI>Lunenburg</HI>'s Coun|try, pa&s;&s;ing by the City of <HI>Lunenburg,</HI> a hand&s;ome wal|led City, beautified with divers fair <HI>Churches,</HI> with high <HI>Spires.</HI> The <HI>Church</HI> of St. <HI>Lambert,</HI> the <HI>Town-hou&s;e,</HI> and the <HI>Duke</HI>'s <HI>Palace,</HI> are fair. Here are <HI>Salt-&s;prings</HI> in the <HI>Town,</HI> very beneficial to the place, and &s;upplying the <HI>neighbour Countries.</HI> The <HI>Town</HI> is commanded by a <HI>Hill</HI> near to it, called <HI>Kalkberg,</HI> which lieth on the North-&s;ide.</P>
<P>In this Road through <HI>lower Saxony,</HI> I could not but take notice of many <HI>Barrows</HI> or <HI>Mounts</HI> of <HI>Earth,</HI> the burial <HI>Monuments</HI> of great and famous <HI>Men,</HI> to be often ob&s;erved al&s;o in open Countries in <HI>England,</HI> and &s;ome|times rows of great <HI>Stones,</HI> like tho&s;e in <HI>Wormius</HI> his <HI>Da|ni&s;h Antiquities:</HI> And in one place I took more particu|lar notice of them, where three ma&s;&s;y <HI>Stones</HI> in the mid|dle, were encompa&s;&s;ed in a large &s;quare by other large <HI>Stones</HI> &s;et up an end.</P>
<P><HI>Hamburg</HI> is a fair <HI>City,</HI> and one of the great ones in <HI>Ger|many;</HI> it is &s;eated in a <HI>Plain,</HI> being populous, rich, and remarkably &s;trong: It is fortified <HI>a la Moderne,</HI> much after the way of <HI>Holland,</HI> with <HI>works</HI> of <HI>earth,</HI> but in no place yet <HI>Reve&s;tues,</HI> or faced with <HI>brick</HI> or <HI>&s;tone:</HI> The <HI>Territory</HI> belonging to it is but &s;mall; it is divided into the <HI>new</HI> and the <HI>old Town.</HI> There are five <HI>Gates:</HI> The <HI>Stone gate,</HI> leading towards <HI>Lubeck;</HI> the <HI>Dome-gate;</HI> the <HI>Alten-gate,</HI> or which leadeth unto <HI>Altenaw,</HI> a place near the <HI>Town,</HI> belonging to the King of <HI>Denmark,</HI> where the <HI>Romani&s;ts</HI> and <HI>Calvini&s;ts</HI> have their <HI>Churches;</HI> the <HI>Bridge-gate;</HI> and the <HI>Dike-gate.</HI> The <HI>Buildings</HI> of this City are hand&s;ome, and commonly have a fair entrance
<PB N="147" REF="86"> into them. The <HI>Senate-hou&s;e</HI> is noble, adorned with carved <HI>Statua's</HI> of the <HI>Nine Worthies.</HI> The <HI>Exchange</HI> or place of meeting for <HI>Merchants,</HI> was then enlarging, it being too &s;mall to receive tho&s;e <HI>Numbers</HI> which frequen|ted it. Many of their <HI>Churches</HI> are very fair, with high <HI>Steeples,</HI> covered with <HI>Copper.</HI> The Front of St. <HI>Kathe|rines</HI> is beautiful. The <HI>Steeple</HI> of St. <HI>Nicholas</HI> is &s;up|ported with great gilded <HI>Globes.</HI> The other great <HI>Churches,</HI> are the <HI>Dome-Church,</HI> St. <HI>Peters,</HI> St. <HI>Jacob.</HI> The greater and le&s;s, St. <HI>Michael,</HI> the <HI>New-Church</HI> in the <HI>New town.</HI> The le&s;&s;er <HI>Churches,</HI> are St. <HI>Gertrude,</HI> St. <HI>Mary Magdalen,</HI> and the <HI>Holy Gho&s;t.</HI> They have a <HI>Sermon</HI> every day, as in other <HI>Lutheran</HI> Cities.</P>
<P>The River <HI>Al&s;ter</HI> runs through it into the <HI>Elbe,</HI> and turneth many <HI>Mills:</HI> and the <HI>Tide</HI> comes up into divers Streets through <HI>Chanels,</HI> although it be di&s;tant eighteen <HI>German</HI> miles from the <HI>Sea,</HI> or Mouth of the <HI>Elbe.</HI> This place aboundeth with &s;hipping, and many of good Bur|den, and is well &s;eated for <HI>Trade,</HI> as having an open <HI>pa&s;|&s;age</HI> into the <HI>Ocean,</HI> and being but a days Journey from the <HI>Lubeck</HI> on the <HI>Baltick Sea,</HI> and being &s;eated upon the long River <HI>Elbe,</HI> the third great River of <HI>Germany,</HI> whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that Country, and as far as <HI>Bohemia.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Hamburg</HI> is full of <HI>Strangers</HI> and <HI>Merchants</HI> of &s;everal Countries. The <HI>Engli&s;h Company</HI> have good <HI>Priviledges</HI> and a rich <HI>Trade,</HI> and <HI>Ships</HI> come laden thither with <HI>Cloath</HI> to the value of an hundred thou&s;and pounds <HI>&s;terling;</HI> and they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of their Country: they are <HI>Per&s;ons</HI> of <HI>worth, courte&s;ie,</HI> and <HI>civility;</HI> and I heartily wi&s;h them all &s;ucce&s;s in their <HI>Af|fairs.</HI> I mu&s;t not omit the acknowledgment of my par|ticular Obligation to that <HI>learned</HI> and <HI>worthy Per&s;on,</HI> Mr. <HI>Griffin,</HI> Preacher unto the Company, Mr. <HI>Free</HI> the Trea|&s;urer,
<PB N="148" REF="87"> Mr. <HI>Banks,</HI> who hath been in many places of <HI>Na|tolia,</HI> and the <HI>Holy Land,</HI> Mr. <HI>Jenkin&s;on,</HI> and my very obliging Friends Mr. <HI>Catelin</HI> and Mr. <HI>Townly.</HI></P>
<P>This place hath the happine&s;s to be quiet when the great Princes of <HI>Europe</HI> are at war; for it de&s;ires to hold a &s;trict <HI>Amity</HI> with Princes, and declines all <HI>Di&s;&s;ention</HI> with them.</P>
<P>I found a Ship at <HI>Hamburg</HI> bound for <HI>London,</HI> and while it was fitting for Sail, I made a &s;hort <HI>excur&s;ion</HI> into part of the King of <HI>Denmarks</HI> Country; and returning to <HI>Hamburg</HI> again, I ordered my affairs for <HI>England</HI> upon the fir&s;t wind, and hoped the next <HI>Tide</HI> to get over the <HI>Altenaw &s;and,</HI> and to pa&s;s the <HI>Blanckne&s;s,</HI> but a cro&s;s wind prevented, &s;o that I left not <HI>Hamburg</HI> till the tenth of <HI>December,</HI> and then I had the good Company of Mr. <HI>Hoyle,</HI> who came from <HI>Narva,</HI> and &s;et Sail in a new Ship; but the days being at the &s;horte&s;t, and the nights dark in the <HI>New Moon,</HI> the <HI>Tide</HI> falling al&s;o in the day time, we were able to get no further the fir&s;t day than <HI>Stadt,</HI> or <HI>Stoade,</HI> upon the River <HI>Zwingh,</HI> a &s;trong <HI>Town,</HI> belonging to the King of <HI>Sweden,</HI> where the Ships that come up the River pay Cu&s;tome, and where the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Merchants had formerly their <HI>Re&s;idence,</HI> when they left <HI>Hamburg</HI> upon a Di&s;content.</P>
<P><HI>December</HI> the <HI>11th.</HI> we came by <HI>Gluck&s;tadt,</HI> belonging to the King of <HI>Denmark,</HI> where the <HI>Ca&s;tle,</HI> the <HI>King</HI>'s <HI>Palace,</HI> and the <HI>Church</HI> are hand&s;ome, and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River <HI>Oa&s;t,</HI> which ari&s;eth in <HI>Bremerland,</HI> and falleth into the <HI>Elbe</HI> a mile from <HI>Brun&s;|b&uuml;ttel,</HI> on the other <HI>Hol&s;atian</HI> &s;hoar.</P>
<P><HI>December</HI> the <HI>12th.</HI> we lo&s;t &s;ight of the Northern &s;hoar, and pa&s;&s;ed <HI>Cook</HI>'s <HI>Haven,</HI> in full hopes to put out to Sea that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below it, where we were
<PB N="149" REF="87"> forced to come to an Anchor again, le&s;t the &s;trong <HI>Ebbe</HI> &s;hould &s;et us on ground among the <HI>Sands:</HI> So we lay that night between <HI>Thick&s;and</HI> on the North, and <HI>Newark</HI> on the South, right over again&s;t a <HI>Light-hou&s;e.</HI></P>
<P><HI>December</HI> the <HI>13th.</HI> the wind turning We&s;ternly, and blowing hard, we returned to <HI>Cook</HI>'s <HI>Haven,</HI> and came to Anchor. Here I came a &s;hoar, and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of <HI>Ham|burg:</HI> It is a high &s;quare Work, with a double Ditch, and &s;ome <HI>Ve&s;&s;els</HI> come up to the Fort; but the <HI>Ditch</HI> or <HI>Chanel</HI> which comes thither out of the <HI>Elbe,</HI> is dry at low water. The <HI>Town</HI> is called <HI>Reut&s;b&uuml;ttel,</HI> not far from the Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North-Ea&s;t-wind, we &s;et Sail for <HI>England.</HI> Coming out of the <HI>Elbe,</HI> we were all the Afternoon in &s;ight of an I&s;land, cal|led <HI>Heilige-landt,</HI> or <HI>Holy-land,</HI> belonging to the Duke of <HI>Hol&s;tein,</HI> which being very high Land, is to be &s;een at a good di&s;tance, and is of excellent u&s;e to direct and guide Ships into the Mouth of the <HI>Elbe,</HI> without which they would be at a great lo&s;s, the Country about that Rivers Mouth being all very low Land.</P>
<P><HI>Heiligeland</HI> is a &s;mall <HI>I&s;land,</HI> having about two thou|&s;and <HI>Inhabitants,</HI> and &s;ix or &s;even &s;mall <HI>Ve&s;&s;els</HI> belonging to it, which are imployed a great part of the year in bring|ing <HI>Lob&s;ters</HI> and other <HI>Fi&s;h</HI> to <HI>London</HI> or <HI>Quinborough,</HI> the <HI>Inhabitants</HI> living mo&s;t upon <HI>Fi&s;h.</HI> We bore out to Sea all night, and the next day made towards the Land again, and &s;ailed in &s;ight of <HI>Schiemoniekeoghe, Amelandt,</HI> and <HI>Schelling:</HI> in the Evening we &s;aw the Lights at the <HI>Vly</HI> and <HI>Texel;</HI> when we were near the Land, we were much troubled with the Fro&s;t and cold Weather, and le&s;s when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair wind, and made &s;uch way, that in the Evening we took down our Sails, and let the <HI>Ve&s;&s;el</HI> drive, not being wil|ling
<PB N="150" REF="88"> to deal with the &s;hoar in the night. The next morn|ing we &s;oon di&s;covered the <HI>Northforeland</HI> covered with Snow, and came to an Anchor in <HI>Margarite</HI>-Road, where the wind growing very high, we rode it out for two days and two nights, and came &s;afe on &s;hoar (prai&s;ed be God) upon <HI>Chri&s;tmas-day</HI> morning.</P>
<P>Now having made &s;o long a walk in <HI>Germany,</HI> I mu&s;t confe&s;s I returned with a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think it very con&s;iderable in many things. The Rivers there|of are noble, and &s;eem to exceed tho&s;e of <HI>France</HI> and <HI>I|taly.</HI> Of the Rivers of <HI>Italy,</HI> the <HI>Padus</HI> or <HI>Po,</HI> is the mo&s;t con&s;iderable, which notwith&s;tanding, hath no very long cour&s;e, before it runneth into the <HI>Adriatick Sea.</HI> And <HI>Italy</HI> being divided by the <HI>Appennine-hills,</HI> running from We&s;t to Ea&s;t, the Rivers which ari&s;e from either &s;ide, cannot be long, neither on the South-&s;ide, before they run into the <HI>Mediterranean,</HI> as the <HI>Arno, Garigliano,</HI> and others: Nor on the North &s;ide, before they run into the <HI>Adriatick,</HI> or the <HI>Po.</HI></P>
<P>The chief Rivers of <HI>France,</HI> as the <HI>Loyre,</HI> the <HI>Seine,</HI> the <HI>Rho&s;ne,</HI> and the <HI>Garonne,</HI> I cannot but highly com|mend, having pa&s;&s;ed upon them for divers days. There are al&s;o four great Rivers in <HI>Germany;</HI> the <HI>Danube,</HI> the <HI>Rhine,</HI> the <HI>Elbe,</HI> and the <HI>Oder,</HI> but none of <HI>France</HI> &s;eem comparable unto the <HI>Rhine</HI> and <HI>Danube. France</HI> having the Sea upon the North, the We&s;t, and the two large Pro|vinces of <HI>Languedoc,</HI> and <HI>Province</HI> upon the <HI>Mediterra|nean Sea,</HI> hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Sea|ports: But &s;ome doubt may be made, Whether any there|of do exceed <HI>Hamburg, Lubeck,</HI> and <HI>Dantzick.</HI></P>
<P>The great number of populous, large, and hand&s;ome Cities, doth afford great content unto a <HI>Traveller</HI> in <HI>Ger|many;</HI> for be&s;ides about Sixty &s;ix free Imperial Cities,
<PB N="151" REF="88"> are many more of good note belonging to particular Princes, and divers highly priviledged. And &s;urely a true E&s;timation of the Cities and Towns of the&s;e days, cannot be duly made from the Accounts and De&s;cripti|ons thereof left an hundred years &s;ince or more, for &s;ince tho&s;e times, Buildings have been better modelled and or|dered; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly contrived; Convents and Publick Hou&s;es more neatly and commodiou&s;ly built; and the fair Colledges and Churches of the <HI>Je&s;uites,</HI> which are now to be &s;een in mo&s;t, do much &s;et off the Beauty of great Places. Every where we meet with great and populous <HI>Towns, Villages, Ca&s;tles, Seats</HI> of the <HI>Nobility, Plains, Fore&s;ts,</HI> and plea|&s;ant <HI>Woods.</HI> And be&s;ides the &s;atisfaction we may have from Objects above ground, we may find no &s;mall con|tent in the wonders thereof under it, in <HI>Mines, Minerals</HI> almo&s;t of all &s;orts, of <HI>Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Tinn, Lead, Quick&s;ilver, Antimony, Coal, Salt, Sulphur, Cad|mia,</HI> and others, where there are al&s;o &s;ingular <HI>Artificers</HI> and <HI>Workmen,</HI> in the &s;everal Artifices thereof. Con|ver&s;ation with the People is ea&s;ie, they behaving them|&s;elves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing and tru&s;ty, &s;o that a <HI>Traveller</HI> needs not to be &s;o &s;o|licitous and heedful of what he hath, as in &s;ome other Countries, which are e&s;teemed of greater Civility. The Women are generally well-complexioned, &s;ober, and grave, and they have not yet learned the cu&s;tome of their Neighbours of <HI>France</HI> and <HI>Holland,</HI> to admit of being &s;aluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and careful in the affairs of their Hou&s;es.</P>
<P>They make good provi&s;ion again&s;t the cold of their Country, by &s;leeping between two Feather-beds and Stoves.</P>
<PB N="152" REF="89">
<P>The common <HI>Stoves</HI> in <HI>Inns,</HI> wherein there are for the mo&s;t part &s;everal Companies eating, drinking, and in the night &s;leeping, are convenient, con&s;idering the great cold, or at lea&s;t tolerable; but they being rooms clo&s;e &s;hut up, the &s;mell of the meat, and e&s;pecially of <HI>Cabbage,</HI> an u&s;ual Di&s;h among&s;t them, makes them un|plea&s;ant, &s;o that &s;ometimes I preferred the cour&s;e of hot Countries, while I called to mind, that in <HI>Pro|vince</HI> and <HI>Italy</HI> we drank frozen <HI>Julebs,</HI> which we di&s;|&s;olved with the heat of our hands; &s;lept upon a &s;heet, on the out&s;ide of the Bed, with all the Windows of the Chamber open; and as we &s;ate at dinner, there was a Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads, about two yards broad, which with a &s;tring was pulled backward and forward to cool us, and divers had Pans filled with Snow, to cool the &s;heets when they went into their Beds.</P>
<P><HI>Germany</HI> is a great <HI>Hive</HI> of men, and the mighty de|&s;truction of men made by the la&s;t <HI>German</HI> wars, and by the Plague is &s;o repaired, that it is &s;carce di&s;cernible. They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not exhau&s;ted by <HI>Sea,</HI> Colonies &s;ent forth, or by peopling <HI>A|merican Countries;</HI> but they have &s;ome con&s;umption by wars abroad, when they be at peace at home: few wars being made in other parts of <HI>Europe,</HI> wherein there are not &s;ome Regiments of <HI>Germans;</HI> the People being na|turally Martial, and per&s;ons well de&s;cended, very aver&s;e from a Trading cour&s;e of Life.</P>
<P>While I read in <HI>Tacitus</HI> of the old barbarous and rude State of <HI>Germany,</HI> how poorly they lived, that they had their Hou&s;es at a di&s;tance from one another; how igno|rant they were in Arts; and it was doubted whether their Country afforded <HI>Mines;</HI> that they lived by exchange of things, making little or no u&s;e of mony, and the like,
<PB N="153" REF="89"> I may ju&s;tly wonder to behold the pre&s;ent advance and improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civili|ty, &s;plendid and hand&s;ome Cities and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly altered &s;ince tho&s;e ancient times; and cannot but approve the expre&s;&s;ion of a Learned Man, though long &s;ince, <HI>That if</HI> A<GAP DESC="illegible" RESP="KEYERS" EXTENT="3 letters">v<GAP DESC="illegible" RESP="KEYERS" EXTENT="1 letter">&s;tus, Civilis, <HI>and tho&s;e old famous men of</HI> Germany, <HI>&s;hould re|vive in their Country again, and look up to Heaven behold|ing the Con&s;tellations of the Bears and other Stars, they might probably acknowledge that the&s;e were the &s;ame Stars which they were wont to behold; but if they &s;hould look downward, and well view the face of all things, they would imagine them&s;elves to be in a new world, and never acknowledge this to have been their Country.</HI></P>
</DIV1>
<DIV1 TYPE="account">
<PB N="154" REF="90">
<HEAD>A JOURNEY FROM COLEN IN GERMANY TO LONDON.</HEAD>
<P>_DUring the Treaty of Peace at <HI>Colen</HI> in the year 1673. between the <HI>United States</HI> of the <HI>Netherlands,</HI> the King of <HI>Great Britain,</HI> and the <HI>French</HI> King; many <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Gentlemen ha|ving accompanied their Excellencies the Lords Amba&s;&s;adours and Pleni|potentiaries in their Journey, had a de&s;ire al&s;o to view &s;ome of the Neighbouring Territo|ries,
<PB N="155" REF="90"> and to diverti&s;e them&s;elves during the heat of the <HI>Summer,</HI> at the <HI>Spaa,</HI> the <HI>Baths</HI> of <HI>Aken,</HI> and other pla|ces. Having therefore, in order to our Journey, obtain|ed a <HI>Pa&s;port</HI> for our Safety from Count <HI>Blondel,</HI> one of the <HI>Spani&s;h Plenipotentiaries,</HI> and from their <HI>Excellencies</HI> Sir <HI>Jo&s;eph William&s;on,</HI> and Sir <HI>Leoline Jenkins;</HI> we left <HI>Coln</HI> on Munday the Fourth of <HI>July,</HI> and upon the <HI>Road</HI> overtook my Lord of <HI>Peterborough,</HI> who had been at <HI>Du&s;&s;eldorp,</HI> at the Duke of <HI>Newburg</HI>'s Court, and went afterwards into <HI>Italy</HI> to <HI>Modena,</HI> and brought over her <HI>Highne&s;s</HI> the pre&s;ent Dutche&s;s of <HI>York.</HI> We dined at a &s;mall walled <HI>Town,</HI> called <HI>Berckem,</HI> which &s;ome think to be a name corrupted from <HI>Tiberiacum,</HI> where we &s;tay|ed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an un|lucky <HI>Accident</HI> which happened: A <HI>Servant</HI> of one of the <HI>Engli&s;h Gentlemen</HI> having ca&s;ually &s;hot a <HI>Hor&s;e,</HI> which belonged to a <HI>Commander</HI> under the Duke of <HI>Newburg,</HI> lying at that time with a party of <HI>Hor&s;e</HI> at this <HI>Town,</HI> &s;o that we travelled in the Evening through the <HI>Woods,</HI> and came late to a place called <HI>Stein&s;tra&s;&s;e,</HI> and the next day morning we went to <HI>Juliers.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Gulick,</HI> or <HI>Juliers,</HI> is a &s;mall <HI>Town</HI> by the River <HI>Roer,</HI> but very ancient, and called by the <HI>Romans, Juliacum,</HI> conceived to have been founded by <HI>Julius Cae&s;ar;</HI> the <HI>Seat</HI> &s;ometimes of the Dukes of <HI>Gulick,</HI> before the uni|ting hereof with <HI>Cleve;</HI> and &s;ince the di&s;&s;olution of that E&s;tate, po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ed by the <HI>United Provinces;</HI> and then a|gain by the <HI>Spaniards;</HI> but at pre&s;ent in the hands of the Duke of <HI>Newburg.</HI> It being agreed at the conclu&s;ion of <HI>Peace</HI> between the <HI>Spaniards</HI> and the <HI>Hollanders,</HI> That the Marque&s;s of <HI>Brandenburg</HI> &s;hould have <HI>Marck</HI> and <HI>Cleve,</HI> and the Duke of <HI>Newburg, Gulick</HI> and <HI>Berg.</HI> This is a hand&s;ome well fortified <HI>Town,</HI> the <HI>Streets</HI> &s;treight, and the <HI>Hou&s;es</HI> of <HI>Brick.</HI> The <HI>Citadel</HI> con&s;i&s;ts of four <HI>Ba&s;tions,</HI>
<PB N="156" REF="91"> of a regular <HI>Fortification;</HI> within which is the Princes <HI>Palace.</HI> The <HI>Piazza</HI> in the <HI>Town</HI> is hand&s;ome; and the whole con&s;iderable for its <HI>beauty</HI> and <HI>&s;trength.</HI></P>
<P><HI>July</HI> the <HI>5th.</HI> we came to <HI>Aken,</HI> or <HI>Aqui&s;granum,</HI> &s;ive Leagues di&s;tant from <HI>Gulick;</HI> the <HI>French</HI> call it <HI>Aix la Chapelle,</HI> from a <HI>Chappel</HI> in the great <HI>Church,</HI> much vi&s;ited by <HI>Pilgrims</HI> from many parts; and famous for the great number of <HI>Reliques</HI> pre&s;erved therein. When the <HI>Ro|mans</HI> made war upon the <HI>Germans,</HI> they po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ed them|&s;elves of divers places between the <HI>Rhine</HI> and <HI>Maes.</HI> And <HI>Granus,</HI> a noble <HI>Roman,</HI> being &s;ent into the&s;e parts of <HI>Gallia Belgica,</HI> about the year of our Lord Fifty three, di&s;covered among the <HI>Woods</HI> and <HI>Hills</HI> the&s;e hot <HI>Springs,</HI> which to this day are &s;o much celebrated in many parts of <HI>Europe;</HI> who afterwards made u&s;e of them, and a|dorned them after the manner of the <HI>Roman Baths,</HI> and built a noble <HI>Habitation</HI> near them; part of which the <HI>Inhabitants</HI> would have &s;till to be &s;tanding, retaining the name of <HI>Turris Grani,</HI> an old <HI>Tower</HI> at the Ea&s;t-end of the <HI>Town-hou&s;e;</HI> a noble <HI>Antiquity:</HI> But the manner of its <HI>building</HI> gives &s;u&s;picion it cannot be &s;o old. Hence the&s;e <HI>Thermae</HI> from their Di&s;coverer have been named <HI>Aquae Graniae,</HI> and came to be frequented; and the <HI>Town</HI> of <HI>Aqui&s;grane</HI> built and flouri&s;hed, till <HI>Attila,</HI> the King of the <HI>Huns,</HI> or <HI>Hungarians,</HI> de&s;troyed it.</P>
<P>About four hundred years after, <HI>Charles</HI> the Great ri|ding out a <HI>hunting</HI> in the&s;e parts, as he pa&s;&s;ed through the <HI>Woods,</HI> his Hor&s;es Foot &s;trook into one of the&s;e <HI>Hot|&s;prings;</HI> near which he al&s;o took notice of the <HI>Ruins</HI> of <HI>ancient Palaces</HI> and <HI>Buildings</HI> long before for&s;aken; and being &s;till more and more delighted with the plea&s;ant Si|tuation of the place, and conveniency of the&s;e hot <HI>Ri|volets,</HI> he renewed and adorned the <HI>Baths,</HI> built his <HI>Royal Palace</HI> near them: and appointed that the King of
<PB N="157" REF="91"> the <HI>Romans</HI> &s;hould be crowned with an <HI>Iron Crown</HI> here as with a <HI>Silver</HI> one at <HI>Milan,</HI> and a <HI>Gold</HI> one at <HI>Rome.</HI> He al&s;o built a noble <HI>Collegiate Church,</HI> dedicated to the <HI>ble&s;&s;ed Virgin,</HI> in the pre&s;ence of many <HI>Princes</HI> and <HI>Bi|&s;hops,</HI> in the year 804, and endowed it with <HI>Revenues</HI> for the maintainance of <HI>Canons,</HI> who lived together in a <HI>Colledge</HI> at fir&s;t, but at pre&s;ent &s;eparately in the manner of <HI>Prebends.</HI> He built al&s;o the <HI>old</HI> or <HI>inward Wall</HI> of the <HI>City,</HI> &s;o that it flouri&s;hed till the year 882. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the <HI>Normans,</HI> and the <HI>Emperours Palace</HI> burnt to the ground. This <HI>Ci|ty,</HI> be&s;ides the&s;e Deva&s;tations from the Irruptions of the <HI>Huns</HI> and <HI>Normans,</HI> hath been divers times &s;ince de|&s;troyed by <HI>Fire;</HI> as in the year 1146. which lo&s;s it overcame in &s;uch manner, that Twenty &s;ix years after, it recovered not only its former greatne&s;s, but was &s;o much increa&s;ed, that the large <HI>outward Wall</HI> was built by the command of the <HI>Emperour Frederick</HI> the Fir&s;t.</P>
<P>In the year 1224. happened another great <HI>Fire,</HI> in which, not only the <HI>Buildings,</HI> but many of the <HI>Inha|bitants</HI> peri&s;hed. And the <HI>Roof</HI> of the <HI>Church</HI> was burnt in another <HI>Fire</HI> 1236. And now of late, for it is not long &s;ince it hath recovered its lo&s;&s;es by the <HI>Fire</HI> in the year 1656. when twenty <HI>Churches</HI> and <HI>Chappels,</HI> and about five thou&s;and private <HI>Hou&s;es</HI> were de&s;troyed.</P>
<P>The <HI>Town-hou&s;e,</HI> or <HI>Senate-hou&s;e,</HI> was built 1353. being all of <HI>Free-&s;tone,</HI> hand&s;omely adorned with the <HI>Statues</HI> of the <HI>Emperours.</HI> The <HI>fir&s;t</HI> and <HI>&s;econd Story</HI> of this <HI>Building</HI> is divided into <HI>Chambers;</HI> but the highe&s;t is all one entire <HI>Room</HI> or <HI>Hall,</HI> 162 Foot long, and 60 Foot broad. It is well <HI>painted</HI> in divers parts by <HI>Ami|&s;aga:</HI> Two Pieces of who&s;e <HI>drawing</HI> are much e&s;teemed here; one of the <HI>Re&s;urrection,</HI> and another of <HI>Charles</HI>
<PB N="158" REF="92"> the Great, giving the <HI>Charter</HI> to the <HI>City</HI> of <HI>Aken.</HI> Here the <HI>Emperours,</HI> at the time of their <HI>Coronation,</HI> u&s;ed to keep their <HI>Fea&s;ts,</HI> together with the <HI>Electours</HI> and other <HI>Princes.</HI> The <HI>Roof</HI> is &s;upported by <HI>four Pillars;</HI> through the middle of which, the <HI>&s;moak</HI> of all the <HI>Chimneys</HI> of this <HI>Building,</HI> is by a hand&s;ome contrivance conveyed away.</P>
<P>Over again&s;t this <HI>Hou&s;e,</HI> in the middle of the <HI>Piazza,</HI> is a <HI>Fountain,</HI> con&s;iderable both for <HI>largene&s;s</HI> and neat <HI>&s;tructure,</HI> contrived by a great <HI>Arti&s;t, Gerard Coris:</HI> where four <HI>Springs</HI> perpetually empty them&s;elves from above into a large <HI>Ba&s;on</HI> of <HI>Copper,</HI> of thirty Foot <HI>Dia|meter;</HI> from whence again it de&s;cends by &s;ix <HI>Pipes</HI> into a <HI>Ci&s;tern</HI> of <HI>Stone,</HI> hand&s;omely engraved, and pa&s;&s;eth to many other <HI>Fountains</HI> in the <HI>Town.</HI> On the top of this <HI>Fountain</HI> &s;tands a large <HI>Statue</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Great, <HI>Patron</HI> of this <HI>City,</HI> made of <HI>bra&s;s,</HI> and gilded over. He is in <HI>Armour,</HI> and looketh towards <HI>Germany.</HI> About the edges of the great <HI>bra&s;s Ba&s;on</HI> is this <HI>In&s;cription:</HI></P>
<P><HI>Hic aquis per</HI> Granum <HI>Principem quendam</HI> Romanum, Neronis <HI>&amp;</HI> Agrippae <HI>fratrem inventis, calidorum fontium</HI> Thermae <HI>&agrave; Principio con&s;tructae. Po&s;tea ver&ograve; per D.</HI> Caro|lum <HI>Magnum Imp. con&s;tituto ut locus hic fit caput &amp; regni &s;edes trans</HI> Alpes, <HI>renovatae &s;unt: quibus</HI> Thermis <HI>hic ge|lidus fons influxit olim quem nunc demum hoc aeneo va&s;e il|lu&s;travit S. P. Q.</HI> Aqui&s;granen&s;is, <HI>Anno Domini</HI> 1620.</P>
<P>The <HI>Church</HI> of our <HI>Lady,</HI> built by <HI>Charles</HI> the Great, is of an odd <HI>Figure.</HI> At the We&s;t-end is a <HI>Steeple</HI> adorned with divers <HI>Pyramids;</HI> and on the top a large <HI>Globe</HI> and <HI>Cro&s;s.</HI> From hence, higher much than the <HI>Church,</HI> pa&s;&s;eth a <HI>Gallery,</HI> &s;upported by a large <HI>Arch</HI> to a <HI>Cupola</HI> near the
<PB N="159" REF="92"> middle of the <HI>Church.</HI> At the Ea&s;t-end is al&s;o a &s;mall <HI>Turret</HI> or <HI>Lanthorn.</HI> The in&s;ide of the whole is adorned with <HI>Marble Pillars</HI> of divers &s;orts, with <HI>Pillars</HI> of <HI>bra&s;s,</HI> gilded <HI>Statues, bra&s;s Doors</HI> and <HI>Partitions,</HI> and much <HI>Mo&s;aick</HI> work.</P>
<P>In the middle of the <HI>Church,</HI> where <HI>Charles</HI> the Great was buried, hangeth a very large <HI>Crown,</HI> given to this Church by the Emperour <HI>Frederick</HI> the Fir&s;t. This <HI>Crown</HI> is made of <HI>&s;ilver</HI> and <HI>bra&s;s</HI> gilt, adorned with &s;ixteen little <HI>Towers,</HI> and eight and forty <HI>Statues</HI> of <HI>&s;ilver,</HI> of about a Foot high, and thirty two which are le&s;&s;er. Be|tween the&s;e &s;tand eight and forty <HI>Candle&s;ticks</HI> to receive the <HI>Lights</HI> burnt here upon <HI>Fe&s;tivals.</HI></P>
<P>Of the&s;e large <HI>Crowns</HI> I have &s;een at <HI>Colen,</HI> and other parts; and it hath been an ancient Ornament in <HI>Churches.</HI> The <HI>Greeks</HI> have a <HI>Crown,</HI> or large <HI>Circle</HI> much like this, in the middle of mo&s;t of their be&s;t <HI>Churches;</HI> on which they hang many <HI>O&s;trich</HI> Eggs, and the <HI>Pictures</HI> of the <HI>A|po&s;tles</HI> and <HI>Saints.</HI> The <HI>Turks</HI> do likewi&s;e imitate it in their <HI>Mo&s;ques,</HI> but in&s;tead of <HI>Pictures</HI> place Lamps.</P>
<P><HI>Frederick</HI> the Fir&s;t took up the <HI>Body</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Great out of its <HI>Sepulchre</HI> in the middle of the <HI>Church,</HI> and afterwards buried it again; partly in a <HI>&s;ilver Coffin</HI> under the <HI>Altar</HI> of the <HI>Quire,</HI> and partly near the <HI>Wall</HI> of the <HI>old Building,</HI> covering it with the &s;ame <HI>Tomb-&s;tone,</HI> as before; which is here reported to have been fir&s;t ta|ken from the <HI>Tomb</HI> of <HI>Julius Cae&s;ar.</HI> It is of <HI>white Mar|ble,</HI> and hath the <HI>Figure</HI> of <HI>Pro&s;erpina</HI> upon it. Out of this <HI>Tomb</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Great, were taken up a great number of <HI>Reliques</HI> and con&s;iderable <HI>Rarities,</HI> which he had got together in his life time; &s;ome of them given him by <HI>Aaron</HI> King of <HI>Per&s;ia,</HI> by the <HI>Patriarch</HI> of <HI>Con&s;tanti|nople,</HI> and others; divers of which are &s;till pre&s;erved here: and the&s;e following we had the opportunity to &s;ee.
<PB N="160" REF="93"> Some of the ble&s;&s;ed <HI>Virgins hair.</HI> One <HI>ring</HI> or <HI>link</HI> of the <HI>Chain</HI> with which St. <HI>Peter</HI> was chained in <HI>Pri&s;on.</HI> The <HI>Head</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Great. The <HI>bones</HI> of his <HI>Arm.</HI> His <HI>Sword</HI> which the Emperours wear at the time of their <HI>Co|ronation.</HI> The <HI>Picture</HI> of the <HI>Virgin Mary,</HI> with our <HI>Sa|viour</HI> in her <HI>Arms,</HI> embo&s;&s;ed upon a <HI>Ja&s;pis,</HI> done by St. <HI>Luke,</HI> hanged about the <HI>Neck</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Great, and &s;o found in his <HI>Tomb.</HI> A Noble <HI>Manu&s;cript</HI> of the <HI>Go&s;pels</HI> found in the &s;ame <HI>Tomb. Charles</HI> the Great's <HI>Horn</HI> which he u&s;ed when he went a hunting. His <HI>Crucifix</HI> made out of the <HI>wood</HI> of the <HI>Cro&s;s.</HI> Our <HI>Saviour's Girdle</HI> of <HI>Leather,</HI> with the <HI>Seal</HI> of <HI>Con&s;tantine</HI> the Great at each end. A piece of the true <HI>Manna.</HI> Some of the <HI>Bones</HI> and <HI>Blood</HI> of St. <HI>Stephen,</HI> richly encha&s;ed, upon which the Emperours are &s;worn at their <HI>Inauguration.</HI> A piece of one of the <HI>Nails</HI> of the <HI>Cro&s;s.</HI> An <HI>Agnus Dei</HI> &s;ent from the <HI>Pope</HI> to <HI>Charles</HI> the Great; and many other <HI>Reliques.</HI> Here is al|&s;o the <HI>Tomb</HI> of the Emperour <HI>Otho</HI> the Third, in <HI>black Marble,</HI> who in the year 1000, fir&s;t con&s;tituted the Ele|ctors of <HI>Germany.</HI></P>
<P>Near to this <HI>City</HI> are many &s;orts of <HI>Minerals</HI> found; as <HI>Lead ore,</HI> the <HI>Sulphur,</HI> and <HI>Vitriol-&s;tone, Iron, Coal,</HI> and <HI>Cadmia,</HI> or <HI>Lapis Calaminaris:</HI> With this latter we &s;aw them make <HI>Bra&s;s,</HI> or multiply <HI>Copper,</HI> in this manner. They take calcined <HI>Cadmia,</HI> or <HI>Calmey,</HI> as they call it, <HI>Copper</HI> from <HI>Sweden,</HI> and the melted dro&s;s of both; to twenty eight pounds of <HI>Copper</HI> they put an hundred pound of <HI>Calmey:</HI> They put fir&s;t into very large <HI>Crucibles,</HI> &s;ome old pieces of <HI>bra&s;s</HI> and <HI>&s;lacken,</HI> or the dro&s;s, and after|wards the <HI>Calmey</HI> and <HI>Copper,</HI> and let them &s;tand in the Furnace twelve hours; after which, they put eight <HI>Cru|cibles</HI> full into one, and let what will run over, the be&s;t &s;inking always to the bottom; and then ca&s;t it into a Frame made of &s;tone, bordered with bars of Iron; and
<PB N="161" REF="93"> &s;o run it into bra&s;s Plates, which are afterwards cut in pie|ces with large <HI>Ci&s;&s;ars.</HI></P>
<P>The <HI>hot Bathes</HI> are very much frequented at pre&s;ent. Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones: The <HI>Emperours Bath,</HI> the <HI>Little Bath,</HI> and the <HI>Bath</HI> of S. <HI>Qui|rinus.</HI> The <HI>Emperours Bath</HI> is in the &s;ame place, and fed with the &s;ame Springs with that in which formerly <HI>Charles</HI> the Great took &s;o much delight, that he frequently u&s;ed to &s;wim therein; in which Exerci&s;e few were more ex|pert than him&s;elf; and &s;pent the latter end of his days here, and would often invite to the <HI>Bath,</HI> not only his Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend and Guards; &s;o as it was cu&s;tomary to Bathe a hundred together in tho&s;e days. But now they are divided into le&s;&s;er Partitions. The <HI>Emperours Bath</HI> having five Bathing Rooms; and the <HI>Lit|tle Bath</HI> which cometh out of it three. The&s;e are reckoned to be <HI>Nitro-Sulphureus;</HI> and ari&s;e &s;o hot, that they let them cool twelve hours before they u&s;e them. From un|der a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which there were &s;ome of the&s;e <HI>Hot Springs,</HI> I &s;aw <HI>Brim&s;tone,</HI> hard, above an inch thick, and <HI>Salt-peter,</HI> and a petri|fied Sub&s;tance finely variegated, taken out.</P>
<P>Be&s;ides the&s;e, near unto the inward Wall of the City, there are <HI>Baths</HI> which are not &s;o hot as the former, e&s;teem|ed to be <HI>Sulphureo-nitrous:</HI> The &s;mell of them is &s;ome|what offen&s;ive, and the water in the <HI>Ci&s;terns</HI> not tran&s;pa|rent. The fir&s;t is the <HI>Bath</HI> of St. <HI>Cornelius,</HI> which hath two Receptacles. The &s;econd, the <HI>Ro&s;e Bath,</HI> &s;o cal|led from Mr. <HI>Ro&s;e,</HI> a Citizen of <HI>Aken,</HI> who built it. The third, <HI>Compus Badt,</HI> or the <HI>Poor man's Bath.</HI> Of this &s;ort of warm Water there is al&s;o a <HI>Fountain,</HI> much re&s;orted to, and drank of every morning in the <HI>Summer</HI> for many <HI>Chro|nical Di&s;ea&s;es.</HI> About a Furlong out of the South-gate of <HI>Aken,</HI> is a Village called <HI>Porcetum,</HI> or <HI>Bor&s;et,</HI> from the
<PB N="162" REF="94"> great number of wild <HI>Hoggs,</HI> which formerly frequented that place; in which are many <HI>Hot Springs</HI> upon both &s;ides of a little <HI>Rivolet,</HI> and let into <HI>Hou&s;es,</HI> where they are di&s;tributed into &s;everal <HI>Baths</HI> of <HI>Stone.</HI> There are fourteen of the&s;e <HI>Hou&s;es,</HI> and twenty eight <HI>Baths;</HI> the <HI>Baths</HI> holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them: the Water is clear and plea&s;ant, without any offen&s;ive &s;mell; exce&s;&s;ive hot when it cometh fir&s;t out of the Ground, hotter than the hotte&s;t of <HI>Aken,</HI> and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they u&s;e it. They u&s;e al&s;o an In&s;trument of Wood, pierced with many holes, to help to cool them &s;ooner, or to &s;tir the Water when any one goeth in, whereby he is not &s;o &s;en&s;ible of the heat. There are many cold <HI>Springs</HI> ri&s;e near the&s;e hot ones, whereby they might be tempered; and &s;urely the quantity of the hot Water being &s;o great, no place might be made more delightful, nor no <HI>Baths</HI> more noble. The <HI>Turks</HI> in our times, do mo&s;t of any Nation beautifie their <HI>Baths,</HI> and render them &s;erviceable to their health and plea&s;ure.</P>
<P>In <HI>Au&s;tria</HI> at <HI>Baden,</HI> the <HI>Sawer Bath</HI> is built after the <HI>Turki&s;h</HI> manner, with a <HI>Cupola</HI> over it: and if any one hereafter &s;hall build or beautifie the&s;e, they will yield to very few in <HI>Europe.</HI> At pre&s;ent mo&s;t of them are of a &s;quare Figure, of about five or &s;ix yards over; and the Hou&s;es in which they are, very near one another. The fir&s;t Hou&s;e hath the name of the <HI>Ladies Bath;</HI> the &s;econd is the <HI>Snake;</HI> the third and fourth the <HI>Sword;</HI> the fifth the <HI>Golden Mill;</HI> the &s;ixth the <HI>Fool;</HI> the &s;eventh the <HI>Cock;</HI> the eighth the <HI>Great Bath;</HI> the ninth the <HI>Fountain;</HI> the tenth the <HI>Crab;</HI> the eleventh the <HI>World Inverted;</HI> the twelfth the <HI>Gla&s;s;</HI> the thirteenth the <HI>Angel;</HI> and the fourteenth the <HI>Ro&s;e.</HI> There is al&s;o another in the open Air, called the <HI>Poor man's Bath.</HI> In the Street is a <HI>Well</HI>
<PB N="163" REF="94"> or <HI>Fountain</HI> of the&s;e <HI>Hot-&s;prings,</HI> of as great a heat as any I have &s;een; perpetually boyling or bubling. But of all the&s;e <HI>Baths</HI> Dr. <HI>Blondel</HI> and Dr. <HI>Didier</HI> have writ|ten &s;o particularly, as I need not to add any thing more, and particularly of their U&s;es.</P>
<P>Within two Leagues of <HI>Aken,</HI> in the Country of <HI>Lim|bourg,</HI> is a <HI>Mine</HI> of <HI>Lapis Calaminaris,</HI> which we went to &s;ee, having a <HI>Corporal</HI> and eight <HI>Mu&s;quetiers</HI> for our Security to pa&s;s the <HI>Wood.</HI> This <HI>Mine</HI> heth over a|gain&s;t the Ca&s;tle of <HI>Einenberg.</HI> As &s;oon as I had delive|red a <HI>Letter</HI> to Mr. <HI>John Franck,</HI> Comptroller of the <HI>Mine</HI> for his <HI>Catholick Maje&s;ty,</HI> he went along with us, to &s;hew us the manner how the <HI>Cadmia</HI> groweth in the Earth, and other Curio&s;ities. This <HI>Mine</HI> having been wrought Three hundred years, and being one of the mo&s;t remarkable of that kind, it may not be impertinent to &s;et down &s;ome particulars concerning it. It is about eighteen or nineteen <HI>Fathoms</HI> deep, lying all open like a <HI>Chalk Mine,</HI> of an Oval Figure; they digg at pre&s;ent in &s;everal places, and the be&s;t <HI>Calmey</HI> lieth between the <HI>Rocks,</HI> in the deepe&s;t part of the <HI>Mine:</HI> They have now found an excellent <HI>Veyn</HI> &s;o placed, of eleven or twelve Foot thick, which they digg out with <HI>Pickaxes,</HI> with &s;ome difficulty, by rea&s;on that the <HI>Lapis Calaminaris</HI> is &s;o very hard. The <HI>colour</HI> of this <HI>Stone</HI> is of a dark <HI>yellow</HI> and <HI>red,</HI> and hath <HI>Veyns</HI> of <HI>natural Brim&s;tone</HI> mixed thin|ly in it. The <HI>Veyns</HI> of the <HI>Lapis Calaminaris</HI> being &s;o large, they follow them not only in one place, but digg over one anothers heads, and frame their work into the &s;hape of large <HI>Stayrs,</HI> and one throws up what another diggs, and &s;o upward till they lade the <HI>Carts</HI> with it. Some of the <HI>Cadmia</HI> is blacki&s;h and dark brown; and there are <HI>Fluores</HI> between the Cavities of the <HI>Stone</HI> hand|&s;omely figured, but mo&s;t of a <HI>blacki&s;h colour.</HI> The <HI>works</HI>
<PB N="164" REF="95"> about the <HI>Mine</HI> the mo&s;t remarkable, are the&s;e: 1. An <HI>Over&s;hot-wheel</HI> in the Earth, which moves the <HI>Pumps</HI> to pump out the <HI>water;</HI> and this not placed in the <HI>Mine,</HI> but on one &s;ide of it, and a <HI>pa&s;&s;age</HI> cut out of the <HI>Mine</HI> to the bottom of it, by which the <HI>Mine</HI> is drained; and another <HI>pa&s;&s;age</HI> or <HI>cuniculus,</HI> out of the place where the <HI>wheel</HI> is turned, which lets out the <HI>water</HI> which turns the <HI>wheel,</HI> and al&s;o the <HI>water</HI> which cometh out of the <HI>Mine</HI> into the Neighbouring <HI>Valley.</HI> 2. The <HI>wa&s;hing</HI> of the <HI>Ore</HI> or <HI>Stone,</HI> which they perform, as at other works, by letting the <HI>water</HI> over it, and &s;tirring it; and this they do where&s;oever they begin to work near the <HI>Superficies</HI> of the <HI>Earth,</HI> for there the <HI>Calmey</HI> is le&s;s, and more mixed with <HI>Clay</HI> and <HI>Earth:</HI> but the mo&s;t remarkable <HI>work</HI> is the <HI>calcining</HI> of the <HI>Ore</HI> (for all our <HI>Lapis Calaminaris</HI> of the <HI>Shops</HI> is the <HI>calcined Calmey</HI>) and it is worth the &s;ee|ing; for they place <HI>Faggots</HI> in a hand&s;ome order fir&s;t, and cover a large round <HI>Area</HI> with them, of about For|ty or Fifty yards <HI>Diameter,</HI> upon which they place <HI>Char|coal</HI> in as good an order, till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground; then they place ranks of the large&s;t <HI>Stones</HI> of <HI>Calmey,</HI> and after them &s;maller, till they have laid all on; and then by &s;etting <HI>fire</HI> to the <HI>bottom,</HI> the <HI>fire</HI> comes to each <HI>&s;tone,</HI> and all is hand&s;omely <HI>calci|ned.</HI> From hence we went to <HI>Limburg,</HI> meeting with di|vers <HI>Souldiers</HI> upon the <HI>Road,</HI> who de&s;ired mony of us, but did not attempt any thing again&s;t us, we being many of us together in Company.</P>
<P><HI>Limburg</HI> is &s;eated upon a high <HI>Rock,</HI> which overlooks all the Country, and a little <HI>River</HI> runneth almo&s;t round it at the <HI>bottom.</HI> The <HI>Avenue</HI> to the <HI>Town</HI> on the North|&s;ide is difficult all along upon the edge of the <HI>Rock;</HI> and the <HI>Gate</HI> of the <HI>Town,</HI> over which is the <HI>Governour's Hou&s;e,</HI> &s;preads it &s;elf from one &s;ide of the <HI>Rock</HI> to the
<PB N="165" REF="95"> other, and locketh up the <HI>pa&s;&s;age.</HI> Here we &s;hew our <HI>Pa&s;ports</HI> from the <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Plenipotentiaries; and in the Afternoon had a plea&s;ant Journey to the <HI>Spaa.</HI> In the way we &s;aw where the <HI>French</HI> Army had pa&s;&s;ed the Country towards <HI>Metz,</HI> having lain about a Fortnight at <HI>Vichet,</HI> after the taking of <HI>Mae&s;treicht.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Sp&agrave;</HI> is a neat <HI>Villedge</HI> in the <HI>Fore&s;t</HI> of <HI>Ardenna,</HI> &s;eated in a <HI>bottom,</HI> encompa&s;&s;ed on all &s;ides with <HI>Hills,</HI> and on the North with &s;teep <HI>Mountains.</HI> So that it happening to <HI>rain</HI> while we were there, the place was, in &s;ome hours time, filled with <HI>water,</HI> the <HI>Hay</HI> wa&s;hed out of the <HI>Mea|dows,</HI> the <HI>falls</HI> in the <HI>River</HI> made even, and <HI>Pohunt,</HI> one of the <HI>Mineral Fountains,</HI> was drowned. There was not much Company when we were there, although it were in the hotte&s;t time of the year, which is mo&s;t &s;ea&s;onable for drinking the <HI>waters;</HI> by rea&s;on of the wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them. But in <HI>Sp&agrave;</HI> it &s;elf all people are free from <HI>danger,</HI> all the Neigh|bouring <HI>Princes</HI> protecting it, and would count it very di&s;honourable to di&s;turb a place, which by the <HI>virtue</HI> of its <HI>Mineral Springs,</HI> is &s;o beneficial to <HI>Mankind.</HI> The&s;e <HI>Waters</HI> are not only drunk upon the place, but are al&s;o &s;ealed up in <HI>Bottles,</HI> and &s;ent into many parts of <HI>Europe.</HI> And Mr. <HI>Coquelet,</HI> at who&s;e <HI>Hou&s;e</HI> we lodged, told me that he &s;ent it as far as <HI>Sarago&s;&s;a</HI> in <HI>Spain:</HI> and that he had at that time Thirty thou&s;and <HI>Bottles</HI> empty, and waited for a good &s;ea&s;on to fill them, which is the <HI>hotte&s;t, dry|e&s;t</HI> time of the <HI>Summer,</HI> and the <HI>harde&s;t Fro&s;t</HI> in <HI>Winter;</HI> at which times the <HI>water</HI> is <HI>&s;tronge&s;t, &s;parkling,</HI> and <HI>brisk,</HI> The chiefe&s;t of the&s;e <HI>Mineral Fountains</HI> are the&s;e, <HI>Geron|&s;ter, Saviniere, Tonnelet,</HI> and <HI>Pohunt.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Geron&s;ter</HI> is in the middle of a thick <HI>Wood,</HI> about an <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> mile and a half Southward of the <HI>Sp&agrave;;</HI> it is the &s;tronge&s;t of any, and the be&s;t adorned, being built up
<PB N="166" REF="96"> with <HI>&s;tone,</HI> and a <HI>Pavilion</HI> over it, &s;upported with four hand&s;ome <HI>&s;tone Pillars.</HI> There is a green place cleared in the <HI>Wood</HI> near to it, and a little <HI>Hou&s;e</HI> for the <HI>Patients</HI> to warm them&s;elves in early, in the <HI>morning,</HI> or in <HI>cold wea|ther.</HI> The <HI>Arms</HI> of S^r <HI>Conrad Bourg&s;dorff,</HI> who adorn|ed this <HI>Fountain,</HI> are placed over, on two &s;ides; and on the other two this <HI>In&s;cription</HI> in <HI>French</HI> and <HI>High-dutch,</HI> in a hand&s;ome <HI>Oval.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Le Reverendi&s;&s;ime &amp; Excellenti&s;&s;ime S^r S^r</HI> Conrade Bourg&s;dorff, <HI>Grand Chamberlan, &amp; premier Con&s;eiller d'E&s;tat, Colonel &amp; Gouverneur General de tous les Forts &amp; Fortere&s;&s;es du Sereni&s;&s;ime Electeur de</HI> Brandebourg <HI>dans &s;on E&s;tat Electoral, Grand Prevo&s;t des Egli&s;es Cathedrales</HI> d'Halber&s;tadt &amp; Brandebourg, <HI>Chevalier de l'Ordre de St.</HI> Jean, <HI>&amp; Commandeur du Baillage de</HI> Lagow, <HI>de gros</HI> Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow, Ober&s;torff, <HI>&amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c.</HI></P>
<P>This <HI>Fountain</HI> &s;melleth very &s;trong of <HI>Brim&s;tone,</HI> and cau&s;eth <HI>vomiting</HI> in a great many, yet pa&s;&s;eth chiefly by <HI>Urine,</HI> as they do all; and &s;trikes a <HI>purple</HI> with <HI>Nut|galls</HI> more inclining to <HI>red,</HI> than the <HI>waters</HI> of <HI>Tunbridge.</HI> The <HI>Sediment</HI> is of a <HI>light blew</HI> in the <HI>Fountain,</HI> but of a <HI>dark dirty red</HI> every where el&s;e. Not far from this is a|nother large <HI>Spring</HI> in the <HI>Wood</HI> much like it, but not as yet built and beautified.</P>
<P><HI>Saviniere</HI> is another <HI>Fountain,</HI> almo&s;t as far from the <HI>Sp&agrave;</HI> Ea&s;tward, and built after the manner of a <HI>Tower:</HI> the <HI>Acidulae</HI> are not &s;o &s;trong as the former. There is another <HI>Fountain</HI> hard by this, almo&s;t the &s;ame, held to be par|ticularly good for the <HI>Stone</HI> and <HI>Gravel.</HI></P>
<PB N="167" REF="96">
<P>The third is <HI>Tonnelet,</HI> ari&s;ing in the <HI>Meadow,</HI> and built up with <HI>&s;tone:</HI> But being there are no <HI>Trees</HI> nor <HI>Shades</HI> a|bout it, it is not &s;o delightful as the others. And <HI>Hen|ricus ab Heers</HI> in his <HI>Spadacrene,</HI> &s;aith that this is more <HI>ni|trous</HI> than the re&s;t, and cau&s;eth &s;uch a coldne&s;s in the <HI>mouth</HI> and <HI>&s;tomach,</HI> that few can drink of it.</P>
<P>The fourth is <HI>Pohunt,</HI> in the middle of the <HI>Town,</HI> from whence mo&s;t of the <HI>water</HI> is drawn which is &s;ent abroad, if no particular one be &s;ent for. This was beautified with hand&s;ome <HI>Stone-work,</HI> by the Bi&s;hop of <HI>Liege,</HI> to whom this place belongeth, and this <HI>In&s;cription</HI> &s;et over it, <HI>Sa|nitati Sacrum.</HI> It is al&s;o called the <HI>Fountain of St. Remaclus,</HI> to whom it was dedicated; and the&s;e <HI>Ver&s;es</HI> are likewi&s;e engraven upon it:</P>
<Q><LG>
<L><HI>Ob&s;tructum re&s;erat, durum terit, humida &s;iccat</HI></L>
<L><HI>Debile fortificat, &s;i tamen arte bibis.</HI></L>
</LG>
<P><HI>i. e.</HI></P>
<LG>
<L>This opens all Ob&s;tructions,</L>
<L>And wears away hard Tumours;</L>
<L>This &s;trengthneth much the weaker parts,</L>
<L>And dries up cold moi&s;t Humours.</L>
</LG></Q>
<P>Being at the <HI>Sp&agrave;,</HI> we vi&s;ited <HI>Franchimont</HI> one After|noon, pa&s;&s;ing through a thick <HI>Wood,</HI> there is an old Ca|&s;tle, and good <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> and <HI>Vitriol-works,</HI> the &s;ame <HI>Stone</HI> affording both; and I pre&s;ume may al&s;o make the <HI>Spa-water</HI> under ground, or at lea&s;t be a principal <HI>In|gredient</HI> in it. We &s;aw the manner here how they mel|ted, and ca&s;t their <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> fir&s;t into great <HI>Pails,</HI> the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the thick and more ob&s;cure &s;ub&s;iding and adhering to the
<PB N="168" REF="97"> bottom and &s;ides, and is that which is &s;old for <HI>Sulphur Vivum.</HI> We &s;aw al&s;o the manner of ca&s;ting the <HI>Brim|&s;tone</HI> into <HI>Rolls,</HI> or <HI>Magdaleons:</HI> And near unto this place a &s;moaking, burning, little <HI>Hill,</HI> which is thus cau&s;ed: They throw out the burnt <HI>Pyrites,</HI> out of which <HI>Brim&s;tone</HI> hath been di&s;tilled, and the <HI>Vitriol</HI> drawn out by infu&s;ion, upon this <HI>Hill,</HI> which con&s;i&s;ts all of the &s;ame matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, &s;moaks, and burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new <HI>Vitriol</HI> into its &s;elf.</P>
<P>From the <HI>Sp&agrave;</HI> we cro&s;&s;ed over to <HI>Frapont,</HI> a <HI>Village</HI> &s;eated upon the plea&s;ant River <HI>Uta,</HI> or <HI>Ourte,</HI> where we took Boat and went down a rapid <HI>Stream,</HI> yet one of the plea&s;ante&s;t I ever &s;aw, winding and turning between &s;o many green Hills, in part of the <HI>Fore&s;t</HI> of <HI>Arduenna.</HI> We de&s;cended afterwards thirty or forty &s;mall Falls in a long Boat made on purpo&s;e. The <HI>Oar</HI> or <HI>Paddle</HI> being only a &s;quare piece of <HI>Board</HI> fixed to the end of a <HI>Pole,</HI> the <HI>Pole</HI> &s;tanding perpendicularly in the middle of it. The delightful River <HI>Ve&s;a,</HI> or the <HI>We&s;dret,</HI> &s;oon met us, and joyning together, we fell down with them into the <HI>Maes</HI> near <HI>Liege.</HI> Upon the Banks of the&s;e Rivers all the <HI>Arms, Guns,</HI> and other <HI>In&s;truments</HI> are made, for which the Country of <HI>Liege</HI> is remarkable.</P>
<P><HI>Liege, Luick, Leodium,</HI> or <HI>Augu&s;ta Eburonum;</HI> Learned Men think this City to be &s;eated near that <HI>Val|ley,</HI> wherein two Legions of <HI>Julius Cae&s;ar,</HI> under <HI>Sabi|nus</HI> and <HI>Cotta,</HI> were de&s;troyed by <HI>Ambiorix,</HI> chief Com|mander of the <HI>Eburones.</HI> It is &s;eated upon the River <HI>Mo&s;a,</HI> which entring with two <HI>Streams,</HI> makes &s;ome pretty <HI>I&s;lands.</HI> Three other &s;mall Rivers ari&s;ing in the <HI>Fore&s;t</HI> of <HI>Ardenna,</HI> are al&s;o here received into the <HI>Maes,</HI> whereby they have plenty of Fi&s;h and other Conveniencies. The City is very populous, and &s;o it
<PB N="169" REF="97"> hath been in former Ages, when as <HI>Charles</HI> Duke of <HI>Pur|gunay,</HI> &s;acked it, and de&s;troyed an hundred thou&s;and of the people.</P>
<P>It aboundeth with fair <HI>Churches,</HI> &s;tately <HI>Convents,</HI> and <HI>Religious</HI> Foundations, richly endowed, &s;o that it hath been called the <HI>Paradi&s;e of Prie&s;ts,</HI> and is in that kind the mo&s;t notable in all the&s;e parts. The Palace of the Bi&s;hop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal <HI>Erardus,</HI> Bi&s;hop of <HI>Liege.</HI> The <HI>Cathedral</HI> beareth the Name of St. <HI>Lambert,</HI> who being Bi&s;hop of <HI>Mae&s;treicht</HI> was murder|ed by <HI>Dodo</HI> and others, about the year 622. The See was afterwards tran&s;lated unto <HI>Liege</HI> by <HI>Hubertus,</HI> as it had been formerly from <HI>Tongres</HI> to <HI>Mae&s;treicht,</HI> and the Bo|dy of St. <HI>Lambert</HI> removed unto this Church, which is at pre&s;ent very noble, being built of a reddi&s;h Stone, very much carved without, and hand&s;omely adorned within. Between the <HI>Quire</HI> and <HI>Sacri&s;ty,</HI> is this <HI>In&s;crip|tion</HI> in very large <HI>Letters:</HI></P>
<Q><P>D. O. M.</P>
<P><HI>Intemeratae Virgini</HI> Mariae, <HI>Sancto</HI> Lamberto, <HI>Eccle|&s;iae &amp; Patriae Divis Tutelaribus,</HI> Maximilianus Henricus <HI>utriu&s;que</HI> Bavariae <HI>Dux, Archiepi&s;copus &amp; Elector</HI> Colo|nien&s;is, <HI>Epi&s;copus &amp; Princeps</HI> Leodien&s;is, Erne&s;ti <HI>&amp;</HI> Fer|dinandi Bavariae <HI>Ducum, Epi&s;coporum &amp; Principum</HI> Leodi|en&s;ium <HI>Nepos &amp; Succe&s;&s;or in &s;ui &amp; Praedece&s;&s;orum memori|am Ponebat.</HI> MDCLVIII.</P></Q>
<P>The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and have the Election of the Bi&s;hop and Prince, who hath al&s;o had the Titles of Duke of <HI>Bouillon,</HI> Marqui&s;s of <HI>Fran|chimont,</HI> and Count of <HI>Lootz</HI> and <HI>Ha&s;bania.</HI> In the
<PB N="170" REF="98"> Coin of <HI>Maximilian,</HI> the pre&s;ent Elector of <HI>Colen</HI> and Bi&s;hop of <HI>Liege,</HI> I find this In&s;cription:</P>
<P>Maximilianus Henricus <HI>Dei grati&acirc; Archiepi&s;copus</HI> Colo|nien&s;is, <HI>Epi&s;copus &amp; Princeps</HI> Leodien&s;is, <HI>Supremus</HI> Bul|lonen&s;is <HI>Dux.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Speutus</HI> the Bi&s;hop of <HI>Liege,</HI> bought the Principality of <HI>Liege</HI> of <HI>Godfrey</HI> of <HI>Bouillon,</HI> when he went to the <HI>Holy Land:</HI> And in the Treaty of <HI>Cambray,</HI> 1559. the po&s;|&s;e&s;&s;ion of <HI>Bouillon,</HI> and precedency of Title, was gran|ted to the Bi&s;hop of <HI>Liege,</HI> although at this time al&s;o the Hou&s;es of <HI>La Tour</HI> and <HI>Mark</HI> do bear the &s;ame.</P>
<P>Of the Pari&s;h Churches that of St. <HI>John,</HI> and of St. <HI>Serva&s;ius</HI> are fair. Of the Abbies that of St. <HI>Jacob</HI> with|in the Town, and of St. <HI>Lawrence,</HI> built by Bi&s;hop <HI>Ra|ginardus</HI> upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There is al&s;o a Colledge of <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Je&s;uites, well-&s;eated upon a Hill, where the Garden is hand&s;ome, and the Dyals made by <HI>Franci&s;cus Linus,</HI> are worth the &s;eeing: And an <HI>Eng|li&s;h</HI> Nunnery hand&s;omely built. In the Church of the <HI>Gu|lielmites,</HI> out of the Town, lieth the Body of our famous Country-man Sir <HI>John Mandeville,</HI> who, after he had travelled through &s;o many parts, took an affection unto this place, and here pa&s;&s;ed the remainder of his life, and who&s;e Epitaph, and &s;ome Rarities of his, are &s;till to be &s;een.</P>
<P>Bi&s;hop <HI>Notger,</HI> who was con&s;ecrated by St. <HI>Gereon,</HI> Arch-bi&s;hop of <HI>Colen,</HI> and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City, and being Tutor to <HI>Otho</HI> the third, he found means very much to beautifie it, to repair and build divers Churches, and endow them with rich Re|venues, and let the River <HI>Maes</HI> into the Town, which be|fore ran upon one &s;ide of it.</P>
<PB N="171" REF="98">
<P>As their Churches are fair and numerous, &s;o are their Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of St. <HI>Lambert</HI> there are eight large Bells, and twelve le&s;&s;er; and there is one &s;o great, as it is &s;aid to require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Church of St. <HI>Paul</HI> the Bells and Chimes are con&s;iderable; as al&s;o at St. <HI>Lawrence</HI> and the <HI>cro&s;&s;ed Friers.</HI> It is al&s;o an Univer&s;ity, and was &s;o famous in former Ages, that they &s;till take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, be&s;ides many of great Barons Students therein.</P>
<P>Their Speech here, as al&s;o at <HI>Spaw,</HI> is called <HI>Roman,</HI> and is a kind of old <HI>French,</HI> or Dialect of that Language, a great part of which is made up of <HI>Latin,</HI> or <HI>Roman</HI> words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the <HI>Dutch, Tui&s;con.</HI> But many &s;peak very good <HI>French.</HI> They have &s;ome Vineyards affording a &s;mall Wine. The Hills about furni&s;h them with Quarries of good Stone, and of &s;everal kinds. They have al&s;o divers Mines and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in &s;ome places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the Surface: and in one place I &s;aw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water, are very con&s;iderable at the&s;e Mines; in &s;ome places moved by Wheels, at above a Furlongs di&s;tance, to which they are continued by &s;trong Wood-work, which moves backwards and for|wards continually.</P>
<P>The <HI>Citadel</HI> &s;tandeth upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was built to keep the City of <HI>Liege</HI> under Subjection. For 1649. there being &s;ome di&s;turbances in the City, <HI>Ferdinand,</HI> the Elector of <HI>Colen,</HI> offering to come into the Town to appea&s;e it, was oppo&s;ed by the Con&s;ul, <HI>Ja|cobus
<PB N="172" REF="99"> Hennet,</HI> who was &s;oon after &s;urpri&s;ed and behead|ed, together with <HI>Bartholomaeus Rolandus;</HI> the Con&s;ul ha|ving &s;worn the Elector &s;hould never come in whil&s;t he were alive. And the <HI>Citadel</HI> &s;oon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are hand&s;ome: that over the great Stream of the <HI>Maes</HI> is very broad and fair, and hath large Arches. From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Citadel, <HI>Maximilianus,</HI> although it were at a very great di&s;tance, the Letters were &s;o large.</P>
<P>From <HI>Liege</HI> we had a plea&s;ant pa&s;&s;age down the Water to <HI>Mae&s;treicht,</HI> pa&s;&s;ing by <HI>Argentau,</HI> a Ca&s;tle &s;eated up|on a high Rock on the right &s;ide of the River, belonging then to the King of <HI>Spain,</HI> afterwards by <HI>Vichet</HI> in the half way, and then by <HI>Navagne,</HI> a &s;trong Fort in the <HI>Maes,</HI> which commands the River, and at that time did the <HI>Spaniard</HI> &s;ervice; then by plea&s;ant Rocks on our left hand, wherein many Cuts and Pa&s;&s;ages have been digged, till we came in &s;ight of <HI>Mae&s;treicht.</HI></P>
<P>This Town having been a little before taken from the <HI>United States</HI> by a &s;harp Siege, was full of <HI>French,</HI> and had a Garri&s;on in it of about Ten thou&s;and men; and in the <HI>Market-place</HI> &s;tood about Two hundred large Field|pieces. We &s;aw the places where they had their Batte|ries and their Mines, and the Half-moon which the Duke of <HI>Monmouth</HI> took: the Out-works were very nume|rous, and many of them undermined. Colonel <HI>Storff</HI> &s;hew'd us a hand&s;ome Draught of all the Works, Ap|proaches and Manner of taking of the Town.</P>
<P>About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the no|ble&s;t &s;ure in the World. Between <HI>Padoa</HI> and <HI>Vicenza</HI> I had formerly &s;een the famous Cave of <HI>Cu&s;toza,</HI> or <HI>Cubola,</HI> &s;aid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and
<PB N="173" REF="99"> Seven hundred in length, but this doth far &s;urpa&s;s it: the Roof is very high and &s;tately in mo&s;t places, the Pil|lars not to be numbred, all very large; we pa&s;&s;ed two miles under ground among&s;t them: No <HI>Labyrinth</HI> can be contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. The <HI>Floor</HI> all in a level, and the <HI>Roof</HI> in mo&s;t places of the &s;ame height, and &s;o much hath that uniform rule, which I &s;uppo&s;e was &s;et to tho&s;e who fir&s;t digged, and &s;o hath &s;ucce&s;&s;ively been ob&s;erved, added to the beauty of this place, that there is &s;carce any thing more noble. It put me in mind of the <HI>hundred Chambers of Nero,</HI> which he cau&s;ed to be made under Ground in the <HI>Rocks</HI> at <HI>Baiae.</HI> And the <HI>Water</HI> which we met with in one place, made me think of <HI>Nero</HI>'s admirable <HI>Fi&s;h-pond,</HI> built in the like manner within the <HI>Earth.</HI> We came out again near to a <HI>Convent</HI> upon the <HI>Banks</HI> of the <HI>River,</HI> and returned by <HI>water</HI> to <HI>Mae&s;treicht.</HI></P>
<P>The next day we parted Company. Mr. <HI>Newton,</HI> Mr. <HI>Ettrick,</HI> Mr. <HI>Grove,</HI> Mr. <HI>Carlton,</HI> and Mr. <HI>Newcomb</HI> went for <HI>Aken</HI> and <HI>Colen;</HI> Mr. <HI>Bates</HI> and Mr. <HI>Da&s;ton</HI> went up the <HI>River</HI> again to <HI>Liege,</HI> at which place, &s;taying a day or two to find a convenience to pa&s;s to <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with <HI>Veni&s;on, Wild-boar,</HI> and other <HI>Di&s;hes,</HI> by that worthy Per&s;on and Learned Mathematician <HI>Franci&s;cus Slu&s;ius,</HI> one of the great <HI>Canons</HI> of <HI>Liege,</HI> who al&s;o continued his high <HI>Civilities</HI> to us to the la&s;t <HI>Minute</HI> we &s;tayed in <HI>Town.</HI></P>
<P>Leaving <HI>Liege</HI> we &s;oon came in &s;ight of <HI>Tongres,</HI> or <HI>Tungrorum oppidum,</HI> the mo&s;t ancient place in all the&s;e Countries. <HI>Ortelius</HI> would have it to be called of old <HI>Atuatuca:</HI> It was a &s;trong hold before the coming of <HI>Julius Cae&s;ar</HI> into <HI>Gaul,</HI> and was afterwards made a <HI>Ro|man Station,</HI> and in proce&s;s of time became &s;o great,
<PB N="174" REF="100"> that <HI>Attila</HI> the <HI>Hun</HI> de&s;troyed an <HI>hundred Churches</HI> in it, it being at that time a <HI>Bi&s;hops See,</HI> which in the year 498 St. <HI>Servatius</HI> removed unto <HI>Mae&s;treicht.</HI> Many old <HI>Coins</HI> and <HI>Antiquities</HI> are &s;till found here; and part of an old <HI>Chappel,</HI> &s;aid to be built by St. <HI>Maternus,</HI> Di&s;ciple to St. <HI>Peter,</HI> is &s;till remaining. When the King of <HI>France</HI> made his great inroad into the <HI>Low Countries,</HI> 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of <HI>Cologne,</HI> and then pa&s;&s;ed on to <HI>Ma&s;eick,</HI> where cro&s;&s;ing the Country to the <HI>Rhine,</HI> by the &s;ides of the&s;e great Rivers, <HI>Rhine</HI> and <HI>Maes,</HI> he made that notable <HI>Incur&s;ion,</HI> and quitted not <HI>Tongres</HI> till he had taken <HI>Mae&s;treicht</HI> the year following. We dined this day at <HI>Borchloe,</HI> and lodged at St. <HI>Trurn,</HI> or St. <HI>Truden,</HI> a hand&s;ome little <HI>Town,</HI> &s;o called from a <HI>Church</HI> and <HI>Abby</HI> herein dedicated to that <HI>Saint.</HI></P>
<P>The next day we dined at <HI>Tienen,</HI> or <HI>Tilmont,</HI> on the little River <HI>Geet,</HI> once one of the chief Towns in <HI>Bra|bant,</HI> but long &s;ince decayed. In the&s;e <HI>Plain Countries,</HI> in many places we &s;aw &s;mall <HI>Hills,</HI> or <HI>Sepulchral Eminen|ces</HI> of the <HI>Ground:</HI> And near unto the <HI>Walls</HI> of <HI>Yienen,</HI> are three very remarkable ones, &s;aid to be the <HI>Tombs</HI> of great <HI>Commanders.</HI> In the Evening we came to <HI>Lo|vain.</HI></P>
<P><HI>Lovain</HI> is the chief <HI>City</HI> of that quarter of <HI>Brabant,</HI> which comprehendeth <HI>Ar&s;chot, Halen,</HI> and <HI>Judoigne;</HI> an ancient and large City, plea&s;antly &s;eated upon the River <HI>Dele;</HI> it is of great <HI>Circuit,</HI> and the <HI>compa&s;s</HI> of the <HI>wall</HI> accounted above <HI>four miles</HI> about: but there are many void <HI>Spaces, Hills, Fields,</HI> and <HI>Gardens</HI> within it, which makes it very plea&s;ant and delightful. There are herein divers good <HI>Buildings, Convents,</HI> and <HI>Chur|ches:</HI> the chief whereof is the &s;tately <HI>Church</HI> of St. <HI>Peter,</HI> the <HI>Convent</HI> of the <HI>Carthu&s;ians,</HI> the <HI>Ho&s;pital.</HI>
<PB N="175" REF="100"> The publick <HI>Palace</HI> or <HI>Senate-hou&s;e</HI> are al&s;o No|ble.</P>
<P>It is the great <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> of the&s;e parts, &s;aid to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by <HI>John</HI> the Fourth, Duke of <HI>Brabant,</HI> and confirmed by Pope <HI>Mar|tin</HI> the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three <HI>Colledges</HI> in it; whereof the four chief are <HI>Lilium, Falco, Ca&s;trum, Porcus. Goropius Becanus,</HI> a Learned Man, and Native of <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> affirmeth, That no <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> in <HI>Italy, France, Germany,</HI> or <HI>Spain,</HI> is to be compared unto it for its e|legant and plea&s;ant Situation. The <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> is under the Government of <HI>Rector,</HI> who is in great e&s;teem and honour among them. This <HI>Univer&s;ity</HI> hath produced many Learned Men: But neither the <HI>Buildings</HI> of the <HI>Col|ledges,</HI> nor their <HI>Endowments</HI> do equal tho&s;e of our <HI>Uni|ver&s;ities,</HI> and the Situation thereof &s;eems not to exceed that of <HI>Oxford.</HI></P>
<P>We travelled from hence to <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> being mo&s;t part of the way in the &s;ight of the very high Tower of the <HI>Church</HI> of St. <HI>Rombald</HI> at <HI>Machlin.</HI></P>
<P>Count <HI>Monterei</HI> was then Governour of the <HI>Low-Countries,</HI> and re&s;ided at <HI>Bru&s;&s;els,</HI> the ordinary Seat of the <HI>Governours</HI> of the <HI>Spani&s;h Netherlands;</HI> which <HI>City</HI> he had taken care to fortifie, and to make it more tena|ble, if it &s;hould be attempted by the <HI>French.</HI></P>
<P>From <HI>Bru&s;&s;els</HI> we pa&s;&s;ed to <HI>Antwerp,</HI> where we were hand&s;omely treated by Mr. <HI>Wauters</HI> and Mr. <HI>Hartop,</HI> and having vi&s;ited &s;ome of our Friends, the next day we pa&s;&s;ed the River <HI>Schelde,</HI> and took Coach in the morning, travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country, &s;et with rows of <HI>Trees</HI> in mo&s;t places, and arrived in the e|vening at <HI>Ghent.</HI></P>
<PB N="176" REF="101">
<P><HI>Gaunt, Gandavum,</HI> or <HI>Ghent,</HI> is e&s;teemed to be the greate&s;t <HI>City,</HI> not only of <HI>Flanders,</HI> but of all the <HI>Law-Countries,</HI> and challengeth a pace among&s;t the greate&s;t in <HI>Europe;</HI> but at pre&s;ent it decrea&s;eth and decays ra|ther than encrea&s;eth. And if <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth were now alive, he could not put <HI>Paris</HI> into his <HI>Gant,</HI> a greater Glove would not fit that City, which is &s;o much increa|&s;ed &s;ince his time. In <HI>Ghent</HI> are many noble <HI>Convents,</HI> among which the <HI>Je&s;uites</HI> is one of the faire&s;t: There is a <HI>Cloi&s;ter</HI> al&s;o of <HI>Engli&s;h Nuns.</HI> The <HI>Cathedral</HI> is &s;tately, and the <HI>Tower</HI> belonging to it being very high, gives a pro&s;pect of a plea&s;ant and fruitful Country round a|bout it. There are divers <HI>Piazza's,</HI> large and fair; in one of which &s;tands a large gilded <HI>Statua</HI> of <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth, Emperour and King of <HI>Spain,</HI> who was born in this City. The whole <HI>Town</HI> is generally well-built, and the <HI>Streets</HI> are fair and clean. The <HI>Inhabitants</HI> hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to <HI>Se|dition,</HI> and for their &s;akes a great many other <HI>Cities</HI> in <HI>Europe</HI> are puni&s;hed, and have in a manner totally lo&s;t their <HI>Liberties:</HI> For the <HI>Spaniards,</HI> to curb the Sediti|ous humour of the People of <HI>Ghent,</HI> were put upon the Invention of building <HI>Citadels</HI> in <HI>Cities,</HI> whereby a few <HI>Souldiers</HI> are able to &s;uppre&s;s any <HI>Commotion,</HI> or beat down the <HI>Town,</HI> &s;o that here I &s;aw the fir&s;t <HI>Citadel</HI> that was built in <HI>Europe</HI> by <HI>Charles</HI> the Fifth: It is not large, and the <HI>Ba&s;tions</HI> little, and though of a Regular Figure, yet not &s;o convenient as tho&s;e of latter days, &s;ince that Art hath been improved.</P>
<P>From <HI>Ghent</HI> we pa&s;&s;ed by water about Twenty <HI>Eng|li&s;h</HI> miles to <HI>Bruges,</HI> a very elegant large City, and for|merly a place of very great Trade, being within three Leagues of the Sea; &s;o that from the tops of their high|e&s;t
<PB N="177" REF="101"> <HI>Buildings,</HI> the Ships under Sail are vi&s;ible, and at the &s;ame time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of a fruitful, plea&s;ant Country, cometh under your eye. It is fortified with Works of <HI>Earth</HI> and deep <HI>Ditches.</HI> The <HI>Convents</HI> are numerous: The artificial Cuts of <HI>Wa|ter</HI> from this Town to all places, maketh it of ea&s;ie ac|ce&s;s; and though it hath no <HI>Port,</HI> the <HI>Pa&s;&s;age</HI> from hence to <HI>O&s;tend</HI> by <HI>water</HI> is &s;hort: And they are at pre&s;ent up|on a De&s;ign of bringing Ships up to this <HI>City.</HI></P>
<P><HI>O&s;tend</HI> is about Ten <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> miles from <HI>Bruges,</HI> &s;eated upon the waves of the <HI>German</HI> Ocean, which wa&s;h it continually on one &s;ide: And they have now contrived it &s;o, as to let the Sea in almo&s;t round the Town for a great &s;pace, whereby it is become much more &s;trong and de|fen&s;ible than before. For when I looked upon it, and con&s;idered what it was when it was be&s;ieged by Arch|duke <HI>Albertus,</HI> and taken by Marqui&s;s <HI>Ambro&s;ius Spino|la,</HI> 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege, I cannot but a&s;cribe very much unto their Sup|plies from <HI>England,</HI> and the ob&s;tinate Valour of the De|fendants, e&s;pecially the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> under Sir <HI>Francis Vere. Sluys</HI> being in the hands of the <HI>States</HI> of the <HI>United Pro|vinces,</HI> and <HI>Dunkirk</HI> under the <HI>French.</HI> The <HI>Spaniards</HI> po&s;&s;e&s;s no other <HI>Port</HI> in <HI>Flanders</HI> but this and <HI>Newport;</HI> and this being the mo&s;t con&s;iderable, they are now ma|king the <HI>Haven</HI> large, and are upon a con&s;iderable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goeth from <HI>O&s;tend</HI> to <HI>Bruges,</HI> out of their Har|bour, by the means of a very great <HI>Lock</HI> or Receptacle of <HI>Water,</HI> which is to communicate with both; which, when it is fini&s;hed, may be very advantageous to the <HI>Traffick.</HI> of the <HI>Spani&s;h Netherlands.</HI> This <HI>Town</HI> &s;tands very low, but the <HI>Streets</HI> are &s;treight, large, and uniform</P>
<PB N="178" REF="102">
<P>From hence I went all along upon the Sea-&s;hoar to <HI>Newport,</HI> a hand&s;ome <HI>Town,</HI> with large fair <HI>Streets,</HI> but low built. There were then a great number of &s;mall Ships in the <HI>Harbour.</HI> This place is famous for the Bat|tel of <HI>Newport,</HI> fought here by <HI>Albertus,</HI> and Count <HI>Maurice,</HI> wherein the <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Forces lo&s;t the day, and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the <HI>Eng|li&s;h</HI> under Sir <HI>Francis Vere;</HI> &s;ince which time, although there hath been much blood &s;hed in the&s;e Quarters, yet there hath not been &s;o con&s;iderable a Battel ever &s;ince, al|though the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> had al&s;o the fortune to do great Ser|vice hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the <HI>Sandhils,</HI> when a part of the Army of <HI>French</HI> and <HI>Engli&s;h,</HI> which be&s;ieged <HI>Dunkirk,</HI> fought with the <HI>Spani&s;h</HI> Forces by <HI>New|port,</HI> and overthrew them.</P>
<P>From <HI>Newport</HI> we put to Sea, &s;ailing out of the Har|bour, and intending for <HI>England;</HI> but the wind being ve|ry high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night, and had lei&s;ure to take notice of the great number of <HI>Sands</HI> upon that Coa&s;t, in the morning we put into <HI>Mardike,</HI> where at pre&s;ent there is only a Fort of Wood ju&s;t above the High-water mark, with &s;ome few Guns mounted. The other Fort, more into the Land, being demoli&s;hed.</P>
<P><HI>Dunkirk</HI> is much increa&s;ed of late, and the King of <HI>France</HI> hath not &s;pared mony to render it con&s;iderably &s;trong. He hath very near fini&s;hed a noble <HI>Citadel,</HI> begun by the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> while this Town was in their po&s;&s;e&s;&s;ion, which hath the <HI>Sea</HI> on one &s;ide of it, the <HI>Haven</HI> on another, and the <HI>Sandhills</HI> towards the Land, which when the wind is at South-we&s;t, doth &s;omewhat annoy it: To prevent which, the <HI>French</HI> have made divers Cuts and Chanels through the <HI>Sands,</HI> into which the Sea entring, doth moi|&s;ten and fix the Sand, &s;o as they are not &s;o apt to fly. And
<PB N="179" REF="102"> every <HI>Ba&s;tion</HI> is &s;prucely kept and covered within with green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town, there are now great Works drawn, which encompa&s;s &s;o large a &s;pace of Ground, that the Town is made bigger by half: And in this part &s;tands the <HI>Engli&s;h</HI> Nunnery, and many hand&s;ome Buildings. The new Fortifications are very large; and the Ba&s;tion towards the North the mo&s;t &s;tately, upon which the King of <HI>France</HI> entertained the Duke of <HI>Monmouth.</HI> The Port is large, and capable of receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is almo&s;t dry; and there are &s;o many Sands before it, that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it.</P>
<P>From <HI>Dunkirk</HI> we travelled by Land to <HI>Graveling,</HI> where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church &s;tately, the Streets broad, but the Hou&s;es low, and at pre&s;ent not populous.</P>
<P>From <HI>Graveling</HI> I came to <HI>Calais,</HI> from whence &s;etting Sail in the morning, we came to <HI>Dover,</HI> and the &s;ame day to <HI>London.</HI></P>
<TRAILER>FINIS.</TRAILER>
</DIV1>
</BODY>
<BACK>
<DIV1 TYPE="publisher's advertisement">
<PB REF="103">
<HEAD>A Catalogue of &s;ome Books Printed for <HI>Benj-Tooke</HI> at the <HI>Ship</HI> in St. <HI>Paul's</HI> Church-yard.</HEAD>
<LIST>
<ITEM><HI>THe Works of the Mo&s;t Reverend Father in God,</HI> John Bramhall, <HI>late L. Arch-Bi&s;h. of</HI> Ardmagh. Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Several Chirurgical Treati&s;es, by</HI> Richard Wi&s;eman <HI>Serje|ant Chirurgion to his Maje&s;ty.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Skinneri Etymologicon Linguae Anglicanae.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Bi&s;hop</HI> Sander&s;on'<HI>s Sermons.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM>Bentivolio <HI>and</HI> Urania, <HI>by</HI> N. Ingelo, <HI>D. D.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Mr.</HI> Faringdon'<HI>s Sermons compleat, Three Vol.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Dr.</HI> Heylin <HI>on the Creed.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Lord</HI> Bacon'<HI>s Advancement of Learning.</HI> Fol.</ITEM>
<ITEM>Lightfoot. <HI>Horae Hebraicae in Johannem.</HI> Quarto.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Dr.</HI> Brown'<HI>s Travels in</HI> Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Mace|donia, The&s;&s;aly, Au&s;tria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, <HI>and</HI> Friuli, <HI>with Sculptures.</HI> Quarto.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>A Repre&s;entation of the State of Chri&s;tianity in</HI> England, <HI>and of its decay and danger from Sectaries as well as Papi&s;ts.</HI></ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Langhornii Elenchus Antiquitatum Albionen&s;ium.</HI> Oct.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia.</HI></ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Johannis Stearne de Ob&s;tinatione Opus Po&s;thumum. Praefixa &s;unt Prolegomena Apologetica.</HI> Octavo.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Two Letters of Advice; 1. For &s;u&s;ception of H. Orders. 2. For Studies Theological, e&s;pecially &s;uch as are Rational.</HI> Oct.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Some Con&s;iderations of pre&s;ent Concernment, how far the Ro|mani&s;ts may be tru&s;ted by Princes of another Per&s;wa&s;ion.</HI> 8.</ITEM>
<ITEM><HI>Two &s;hort Di&s;cour&s;es again&s;t the Romani&s;ts. 1. An Account of the Fundamental Principle of Popery, and of the In&s;uf|ficiency of the Proofs they have for it. 2. An An&s;wer to Six Queries, 12. The&s;e four by</HI> Henry Dodwell <HI>M. A. &s;ometimes Fellow of</HI> Trinity <HI>Colledge near</HI> Dublin.</ITEM>
</LIST>
<PB REF="103">
</DIV1>
</BACK>
</TEXT>
</EEBO>
</ETS>
