After Waterloo
PREFACE.
PART I
CHAPTER I. MAY-JUNE, 1815
CHAPTER II. From Bruxelles to Liege—A priest's declamation against the French Revolution—Maastricht—Aix-la-Chapelle—Imperial relics—Napoleon regretted—Klingmann's “Faust”—A Tyrolese beauty—Cologne—Difficulties about a passport—The Cathedral—King-craft and priest-craft—The Rhine—Bonn and Godesberg—Goethe's “Goetz von Berlichingen”—The Seven Mountains—German women—Andernach—Ehrenbreitstein—German hatred against France—Coblentz—Intrigues of the Bourbon princes in Coblentz—Mayence— Bieberich—Conduct of the Allies towards Napoleon—Frankfort on the Mayn—An anecdote about Lord Stewart and Lafayette—German poetry—The question of Alsace and Lorraine—Return to Bruxelles—Napoleon's surrender.
CHAPTER III. From Bruxelles to Paris—Restoration of Louis XVIII—The officers of the allied armies—The Palais Royal—The Louvre—Protest of the author against the proposed despoiling of the French Museums—Unjust strictures against Napoleon's military policy—The cant about revolutionary robberies—The Grand Opera—Monuments in Paris—The Champs Elysees—Saint-Cloud—The Hotel des Invalides—The Luxembourg—General Labedoyere—Priests and emigrants—Prussian Plunder—Handsome behaviour of the English officers— Reminiscences of Eton—Versailles.
CHAPTER IV. From Paris to Bruxelles—Visiting the plains of Waterloo—The Duke de Berri at Lille—Beauvais—Return to Paris—Remarks on the French theatre— Talma—Mlle Duchesnois—Mlle Georges-French alexandrine verse—The Abbe Delille—The Opera Comique.
CHAPTER V. From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the Simplon—Auxerre—Dijon—Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone—The army of the Loire—Macon—French grisettes—Lyons—Monuments and theatricals— Geneva—Character and opinions of the Genevois—Voltaire's chateau at Ferney—The chevalier Zadera—From Geneva to Milan—Crossing the Simplon—Arona—The theatres in Milan—Rossini—Monuments in Milan—Art encouraged by the French—Mr Eustace's bigotry—Return to Switzerland— Clarens and Vevey—Lausanne—Society in Lausanne—Return to Paris—The Louvre stripped—Death of Marshal Ney.
PART II
CHAPTER VI. MARCH-JUNE,1816
CHAPTER VII. Journey from Paris to Lausanne—Besancon—French refugees in Lausanne—Francois Lamarque—General Espinassy—Bordas—Gautier—Michau— M. de Laharpe—Mlle Michaud—Levade, a Protestant minister—Chambery—Aix— Details about M. de Boigne's career in India—English Toryism and intolerance—Valley of Maurienne—Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at Suza—Turin.
CHAPTER VIII. Journey from Turin to Bologna—Asti—Schiller and Alfieri—Italian cuisine—The vetturini —Marengo—Piacenza—The Trebbia—Parma—The Empress Maria Louisa—Modena—Bologna—The University—The Marescalchi Gallery—Character of the Bolognese.
CHAPTER IX. Journey across the Appennines to Florence—Tuscan idioms and customs—Monuments and galleries at Florence—The Cascino—Churches— Theatres—Popularity of the Grand Duke—Napoleon's downfall not regretted—Academies in Florence.
CHAPTER X. Journey from Florence to Rome—Sienna—Radicofani—Bolsena—Montefiascone wine—Viterbo—Baccano—The Roman Campagna—The papal douane—Monuments and Museums in Rome—Intolerance of the Catholic Christians—The Tiber and the bridges—Character of the Romans—The Palassi and Ville —Canova's atelier—Theatricals—An execution in Rome.
CHAPTER XI. From Rome to Naples—Albano—Velletri—The Marshes—Terracina—Mola di Gaeta—Capua—The streets of Naples—Monuments and Museums—Visit to Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius—Dangerous ventures—Puzzuoli and Baiae—Theatres at Naples—Pulcinello—Return to Rome—Tivoli.
CHAPTER XII. NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816
PART III.
CHAPTER XIII. MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817
CHAPTER XIV. SEPTEMBER 1817-APRIL 1818
CHAPTER XV. APRIL-JULY, 1818
CHAPTER XVI. JULY-SEPTEMBER 1818
CHAPTER XVII. SEPTEMBER 1818-MARCH 1819
CHAPTER XVIII. MARCH-APRIL 1819
INDEX
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